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+} + + +a {text-decoration: none} + +ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + +.pagenum { + color: gray; +} + + +table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; border: 2px solid;font-size:80%} +table.autotable td, +table.autotable th { padding: 0.25em; border: 1px solid;} +table.autotable th {font-size:80%;font-weight:normal;} + + +.tdln {width:1em;border-left-width:0 !important; padding-left:0 !important; text-align:left;} +.tdrn {padding-left:0.5em !important;width:1em; border-right-width:0 !important; padding-right:0 !important; text-align:right !important;} + + + +@media screen and (max-width: 600px) { + .shrink { + font-size: 80%; + } +} + +.frame {width:100%;margin:auto;text-align:center; +height:auto; + background: url("images/frame.png"); +background-repeat:no-repeat; + background-position: center center; + /*background-attachment: fixed;*/ +background-size:contain; +} + +/* +@media screen and (max-width: 600px) { + .frame { + background: none; +width:100%; + } +} +*/ +@media screen and (max-width: 550px) { + .frame { + background-size: cover; +width:100%; + } +} + + +table.autotable3 td, +table.autotable3 th {padding: 0.25em;} + +table.autotable4 {width:100%;} +table.autotable4 td, +table.autotable4 th {padding: 0.25em;vertical-align:top;} + +.c4 {width:4em;} +.c6 {width:6em;} +.c8 {width:8em;} +.c12 {width:12em;} + + +.titlepage {margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;width:20em;} +/*hide ebook title page from browser*/ +.ebookversion {display:none;} +/*unhide ebook title page in conversion*/ +.x-ebookmaker .ebookversion {display:block;} + + +.illowe40 {width: 40em;} +.illowe24 {width: 24em;} +.illowe18 {width: 18em;} +.illowe12 {width: 12em;} +.illowe8 {width: 8em;} + + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 ***</div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a><a id="Page_2"></a>2</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe40" id="i_002"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_002.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + RECRUITS AT THE NAVAL TRAINING CAMP, PELHAM BAY, N. Y., + LEARNING TO MAKE KNOTS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">3</span></p> +</div> + +<div class="ebookversion"> +<table class="titlepage"><tr><td> +<h1>KNOTS</h1> +<p class="p2 center"> +A study of <br>Marlinespike Seamanship <br>which +embraces <br>Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings and Splices<br> and their <br>Practical Application. +</p> + +<p class="center p2"> +With chapters on <br>Cordage, Matting, +Hammock Making <br>and <br>Wire Steel Work +</p> + +<p class="center +p2"> +Compiled and Edited by <br> +A. F. ALDRIDGE +</p> + +<p class=" center p2"> +Dedicated to the Sailors of the United States +</p> + +<p class="center p2 p2b"> +THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY<br> +<span class="smcap">9 Murray Street, New York City</span><br> +U. S. A. +</p> + +</td></tr></table> +</div> + + +<div class="frame x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<table class="titlepage"><tr><td> +<p class="subh1 center">KNOTS</p> +<p class="p2 center"> +A study of <br>Marlinespike Seamanship <br>which +embraces <br>Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings and Splices<br> and their <br>Practical Application. +</p> + +<p class="center p2"> +With chapters on <br>Cordage, Matting, +Hammock Making <br>and <br>Wire Steel Work +</p> + +<p class="center +p2"> +Compiled and Edited by <br> +A. F. ALDRIDGE +</p> + +<p class=" center p2"> +Dedicated to the Sailors of the United States +</p> + +<p class="center p2 p2b"> +THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY<br> +<span class="smcap">9 Murray Street, New York City</span><br> +U. S. A. +</p> + +</td></tr></table> +</div> + + + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter sm"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">4</span></p> + + +<p class="center"><i>COPYRIGHT 1918</i></p> + +<p class="center">BY<br> +THE RUDDER PUBLISHING CO.<br> +NEW YORK, U. S. A.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>All Rights Reserved</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="sm">PRESS OF</span><br> +THOMSON & COMPANY<br> +<span class="smcap">9 Murray Street, New York</span></p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"> + CONTENTS + </h2> +</div> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Preface +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_7">7</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +History of Knots +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_9">9</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Cordage +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_11">11</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Rope and Its Care +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_15">15</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Simple Knots and Loops +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_21">21</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Knots for Uniting Ropes +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_31">31</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Bends and Hitches +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_36">36</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Knots Formed on Ropes by Their Own Strands +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_50">50</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Shortenings +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_68">68</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Ties +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_73">73</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Purchases and Slings +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_79">79</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Fastenings, Moorings and Ring Knots +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_88">88</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Lashings and Seizings etc. +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_101">101</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Splicing and Rope Work +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_112">112</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Wire Rope Splicing +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_128">128</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Matting +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_134">134</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Hammock Making +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_146">146</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Strength of Rope etc. +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_152">152</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Index +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#Page_157">157</a> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a><a id="Page_7"></a>7</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE"> + PREFACE + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The study of knots is always fascinating. To +twist ropes so that they will hold and not break is an +art that comes natural to the sailor and the amateur +will watch him in wonder as he does his work. Knots +are just as important in these days of steam vessels +as they were in the days of the sailing vessel, and now +when thousands of men are being trained to handle +the fleets of vessels building tying knots is a part of +their training.</p> + +<p>At the Naval camps and the nautical schools the +men are trained in squads and with a little practice +they soon acquire the art. To aid those students this +book has been published. It has been compiled from +American and British Government records and from +many other sources, so that it is as complete a collection +of knots as it is possible to obtain.</p> + +<p>It will be of great assistance to men of the U. S. +Navy, U. S. Naval Reserve, U. S. Junior Naval Reserve, +the U. S. Nautical Schools and the U. S. Power +Squadrons who are working so loyally to aid their +country in its time of need. To these men this book +is dedicated in the hope that it may be of some help +to them in their work.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a><a id="Page_9"></a>9</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="HISTORY_OF_KNOTS"> + HISTORY OF KNOTS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Knots, according to an ingenuous essayist, are +probably as “old as human fingers” and their history +is lost in antiquity. Doubtless when man was first +placed on this earth he learned to make fastenings +from the tendrils of climbing vines and trailing flowers +which twist themselves into odd fastenings as they +lift themselves from the earth. The first cords were +probably twisted grasses and rushes. Since those +early days knots, like Topsy, have “just growed” and +man’s ingenuity has enabled him so to arrange ropes +and cords that they will sustain weights, fasten various +articles together and take up strains so that they will +hold under ordinary conditions.</p> + +<p>Seamen are credited with having devised the most +knots. They have invented ties upon which depend +the safety of their ships and the lives of those on board. +Operatives in many trades such as building have borrowed +from the seamen their knots and applied them to +their work. In some instances the land operator has +invented new knots or ties to suit conditions not found +on shipboard.</p> + +<p>To tie a knot properly or to be able to join ropes +so that they will hold and withstand heavy strains is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span>so important with seamen that careful attention is +paid to the instruction of the men in this particular +work. At the many naval training camps scattered +about the country capable instructors show the recruits +how to properly make knots, ties, hitches, bends +and splices, and until the recruit knows how to handle +ropes quickly and properly he is not much use at sea. +In the nautical schools, too, and in the divisions of the +U. S. Power Squadron much attention is paid to this +part of the novice’s instruction.</p> + +<p>The steamship is steadily driving the sailing vessel +from the seas. Of course on a sailing ship, where +every spar is stayed by rope and where all the sails, +the propelling power, are handled by ropes, the ability +to properly tie knots is more important than on a vessel +driven by steam or oil engines, but on the powered +vessel there are many occasions when it is necessary +to have a knowledge of knots, particularly in handling +cargoes, in making fast to piers or moorings, in towing, +in handling boats, and in hundreds of other instances +so that the steam engine is not making “marlinespike +seamanship” a lost art.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CORDAGE"> + CORDAGE + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Rope is a word that is taken to mean almost every +pliable material. Technically a rope is a cord one inch +or more in diameter. It is generally made of hemp, +manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron or copper wire. In +studying the nature and uses of knots, particularly +those which come under the designation of splices, +some knowledge of the mode and of the principles on +which ropes are made, is essentially necessary. The +simplest and most effectual mode of obtaining the +united strength of fibres composing the rope would +be to lay them side by side and fasten them together +at each end as in the selvagee, which is described on +<a href="#Page_120">page 120</a>. This plan, even if the fibres of hemp +were of the necessary length, would be open to many +objections; hence it was necessary to devise some plan +which would give unlimited length to the rope and at +the same time preserve its torsion and portability. +This has been achieved by the compression and twisting +of the fibres in different directions, until they produce +a compact, hard and strong rope, neither breaking +the fibres on the one hand nor leaving them so loose +as to be easily drawn out from the mass on the other—either +extreme would be equally fatal in its results +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>and injurious to the stability of the rope. This is +achieved by the modern processes of rope making.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_012"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_012.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FIBRES TO CABLE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>First the fibres of hemp are loosely twisted together, +right-handed, and form what is technically known +as yarn. Two or three yarns twisted together form a +strand; three strands form a rope and three ropes a +cable. The diagram illustrates this clearly. <b>A</b> is a +yarn teased out to show the original fibre; <b>B</b> shows the +yarn forming the strand; the strands <b>C</b>, <b>H</b>, and <b>J</b> form +the rope <b>D</b>; the ropes <b>D</b>, <b>F</b>, and <b>G</b> form the cable <b>E</b>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span></p> + +<p>A hawser rope is composed of three strands laid up +generally right-handed—that is, the direction taken +by the strands in forming the rope always runs from +left to right.</p> + +<p>A shroud-laid rope, also laid right-handed, consists +of four strands with a heart in the center.</p> + +<p>A cable-laid rope is composed of three right-handed +hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that +it may be said to consist of nine strands, or it may +be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-handed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_013"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_013.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> + +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +HAWSER ROPE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SHROUD-LAID ROPE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +CABLE-LAID ROPE +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Spun yarn is a number of yarns twisted up right-handed. +The number varies from two to eight.</p> + +<p>Nettle stuff is made of two or three yarns laid together +and is used for making clews of hammocks, +harbor gaskets, etc.</p> + +<p>Sennit is made of a number of yarns plaited up into +square, round or flat sennit as required and used for +various purposes.</p> + +<p>Junk consists of lengths of condemned cordage 4 +inches and above.</p> + +<p>Oakum is old rope unlaid and the yarns picked into +hemp for caulking the seams in ships’ decks or sides.</p> + +<p>Boltrope is cordage tarred and white, made of +Italian hemp from ½ inch to 6 inches. It is soft laid +and well stretched and is used for roping sails and +awnings.</p> + +<p>Hammock lashings and lanyards are of white Italian +hemp 1¼ inch.</p> + +<p>Coir rope is three-stranded right-handed rope. The +yarn is spun from the fibres of the cocoanut tree. It +is one-third lighter than hemp but not nearly so durable. +It soon rots after being wet, if not well dried +before being stowed away. As it floats so light it is +very useful for warps and is about a quarter the +strength of hemp rope.</p> + +<p>Twine is made from very fine hemp.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="ROPE_AND_ITS_CARE"> + ROPE AND ITS CARE + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Rope—and a sailor’s mind instantly pictures a ship. +Ropes belong to a ship in his mind’s processes and +since man launched his first boat on the water, rope +has been in one form or another part of a boat’s equipment. +Savages probably had ropes before they had +boats, but with the development of the boat has come +the development of rope into the product of today.</p> + +<p>Did you ever stop to think why rope is so much +used aboard ships? What are the qualities which +make it such a necessary part of a ship’s gear? Ropes +are primarily used to transmit power in a convenient +way. If sailors could grasp the sail in their hands and +clew it up no clew-lines would be necessary. But their +arms are not long enough and the power would be +spread over such a large area that it would become +ineffective. A clew-line concentrates that power from +that point of application to a convenient place for the +sailor to apply it. An iron rod would do the same +thing, you say. Yes, but an iron rod lacks two essential +qualities—lightness and flexibility. Flexibility is +the cardinal virtue of a rope. When not in use it can +be coiled down to a very small space and it can follow +the wake of the worst helmsman without fear of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>breaking its back. A chain is flexible, but its own +weight is so great that it is only of value for certain +kinds of work.</p> + +<p>Ropes are made of organic material such as cotton, +hemp, manila, grass, and of metals such as iron, steel, +bronze and sometimes aluminum.</p> + +<p>The class of organic materials is classified as to the +material and the manner in which they are made up. +Grass, manila and hemp are spun into rope, while +cotton is spun, braided and knitted. Braided and +knitted ropes have the distinctive quality of being +able to transmit torsional stresses such as a flexible +shaft and are used for this purpose in the patent log-line. +They are also free from turns, which makes +them valuable as signal halyards, though by the use +of small swivels this bad feature on spun rope has been +overcome for use as signal halyards. When you do +use cotton, remember it has a great ability for shrinking. +Therefore, do not haul your halyards taut in +dry weather and wonder why they parted in the first +rain-squall.</p> + +<p>If spun rope has ruined so many dispositions by the +diabolical turn which it can foul itself into—why use +it? Because that very same twist—the cause of so +much cursing—is the secret of its strength. Rope is +subjected to a tension or pull along the line of its +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>longest axis. The thread is made of little fibres which +are twisted together. The threads are then twisted to +make yarns or strands and the strands twisted or spun +into rope or lines. Rope or lines are made up into +hawsers.</p> + +<p>Take a coil spring and pull out the ends. If you +put power enough on the wire it straightens out. This +is exactly what happens when you put a strain on a +rope; the twists or turns try to straighten out, and +lie in a straight line along the center. But there is yarn +already in the center, and the coils are pressing in on +all sides, squeezing it more and more as the load increases. +Now the reason why the two first fibres +clung together when they were twisted was that this +same pressure made the friction between the fibres so +great that they could not slide by each other. This +applies to the many hundreds of fibres which make up +the rope as a whole. So the harder the pull the harder +the squeeze and the harder it is for them to slip by +each other. The fact that some pieces of fibre are first +on the outside and then on the inside makes all get an +equal share of the squeeze. Why does this not go on +indefinitely? Because up to a certain load the tendency +to cling together is greater than the reaction +from the center, which has to push them apart, but +when this pressure or reaction becomes greater than +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span>the friction the little fibres begin to slide and the ropes +part.</p> + +<p>The smaller sizes of spun ropes of this organic class +are designated by the number of threads used to make +up the rope, such as nine-thread or eighteen-thread line. +The larger sizes are designated by the number of +inches of circumference, such as one-inch, three-inch, +etc. Hawsers are measured by the circumference in +inches. Spun ropes are three-stranded or four-stranded. +A three-stranded rope is more flexible than a +four, but a four has greater surface area for the same +strength and weight and therefore wears longer.</p> + +<p>Hemp rope is harder and less flexible than manila +and is used for standing rigging, while manila rope is +used for running rigging.</p> + +<p>Grass or coir ropes are used where the rope is submerged +often, as they do not rot when damp and can +be stowed wet. They are very elastic and are specially +used for towing light weights, such as targets in the +Navy.</p> + +<p>Just a few hints about this general class of organic +ropes:</p> + +<p>Always dry these ropes before stowing them to +prevent rotting.</p> + +<p>Protect them from chafing by use of chafing gear +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>or reversing end for end to bring the wear in different +places.</p> + +<p>Always coil down right-handed or with the sun.</p> + +<p>The greater the surface the less the wear on any +one strand, so use four-stranded for ropes whose particular +wear is from chafing such as anchor warps, for +small boats and boat-falls. A small size rope would +often be strong enough but would chafe through +quicker.</p> + +<p>Metallic or wire ropes are generally either iron, +steel, bronze or combinations of metal strands spun +with hemp or manila strands.</p> + +<p>Bronze rope is used for tiller ropes because it is +non-magnetic and it will not rust. This is important, +as tiller ropes are often in inaccessible places. If it +does not pass near your compass and it is out where it +can be easily examined and cared for to prevent rusting, +a flexible steel tiller rope is cheaper and stronger +for the same weight and also wears longer.</p> + +<p>Galvanized iron wire is used for standing rigging, +and the rusting in places where turns have broken the +surface coating, such as around thimbles of an eye +splice, should be carefully looked for. Most sailors +think it wiser not to paint wire except for decorative +purposes. If it is painted be sure to remove all grease +and water from the surface.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span></p> + +<p>Steel rope is used for running rigging because of +its flexibility and lightness. It is not adapted, however, +for small boats.</p> + +<p>A combination of alternate strands of wire and +hemp is made into rope known as durable rope, and is +used particularly for cargo falls and it is more flexible +and more easily handled.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SIMPLE_KNOTS_AND_LOOPS"> + SIMPLE KNOTS AND LOOPS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>All knots are begun with loops or hitches. These +may be single or double as required. The simple hitch +is self-explanatory, as are the underhand and the overhand +loops. The illustrations explain them clearly.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_021over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_021over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> + +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SIMPLE HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +UNDERHAND LOOP +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +OVERHAND LOOP +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Simple Knot</b> begins with one of these loops by +passing the loose end through the loop and then drawing +it taut as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_021under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_021under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +SIMPLE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIGURE OF 8 KNOT +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Figure of 8 Knot</b> is known as the perfect knot. +It is formed by an overhand and an underhand loop +overlapping each other and the loose end passed +through the loop. When drawn tight it bears a close +resemblance to the Arabic numeral 8, hence its name.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_022over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_022over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc c6"> +DOUBLE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc c4"> +NIPPED +</td> +<td class="tdc c6"> +TREBLE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc c8"> +OPEN +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Double, Treble, Four-Fold, or Six-Fold Knots</b> +may be called compound knots. They are used often +when it is necessary to shorten a rope a few inches or +to increase the size or strength of a holding knot to +prevent it passing through an eye or a block. These +knots are made by passing the end of a rope twice, +three times, or as many times as may be necessary, +through a loop as shown in the Simple Knot. The +diagrams show a double knot loosely formed and when +nipped or drawn taut, and a treble knot in its open +formation and pulled taut.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_022under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_022under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIVE-FOLD KNOT OPEN +</td> +<td class="tdc c6"> +NIPPED +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Five and Six-Fold Knots</b> present handsome +coils and are useful to travelers who do not wish to cut +the precious cords of their baggage.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span></p> + +<p>From Simple knots the student passes to loops, +nooses and running knots. The Bight of a rope is the +loop formed when a rope is bent back on itself. The +Standing Part is the principal portion or longest part +of the rope and the end is that part used in forming +the knot or hitch.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_023over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_023over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +SIMPLE RUNNING KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc c12"> +LOOP KNOT +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Simple Running Knot</b> is made by passing a +hitch instead of the end of a rope when making a simple +knot. The variations of this knot are numerous. +When the loose end is knotted with a simple perfect +or double knot it forms one of the most useful and +easily made loops.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_023under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_023under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TOMFOOL KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Tomfool Knot</b> is a double loop through a simple +knot. This knot is also known as the Single Pitcher +Knot. It is said that this knot has baffled many experts +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span>who profess to be able to break any knot. It is +made like the running knot. The firm end is then +passed through the open, simple knot so as to form a +double loop or bow. If the wrists are passed within +the loops, the loops then drawn taut and the loose ends +tied firmly around the central part a pair of very good +handcuffs is furnished.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_024"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_024.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + LOOP KNOT FOR LARGE CORDAGE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Loop Knot</b> is the ordinary useful loop of everyday +life and it forms the foundation for many more +elaborate knots and for shortenings. A more ornamental +and even stronger loop, which is well adapted +for large cordage, is made by the figure 8 knot. This +loop, like the common loop knot, when once made and +has been subjected to a lengthened strain, is very difficult +to untie. In this case there is nothing better than +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>a running knot with a check knot, which is a modification +of the fisherman’s knot. A simple knot is tied +over the running line as shown in the figure. After +use it may be easily drawn apart, the loop slipped and +the knot untied in very short time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_025"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_025.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BOWLINE KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span></p> + +<p><b>The Bowline Knot</b> cannot slip and is therefore always +used for slinging a man for the purpose of doing +some particular piece of work; the workman sits in the +sling. First take the part <b>Z</b> in the right hand with <b>Y</b> +in the left hand, place <b>Z</b> on <b>Y</b>, and, turning the left +hand over from you to the left, form a loop and reeve <b>C</b> +as shown by the dotted line and haul taut.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_026"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_026.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + RUNNING BOWLINE KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Running Bowline</b> is used whenever a running +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>noose is required. Form a loop with a long end <b>C</b> +lying underneath the standing part as shown in Fig. 1. +Now bring end <b>C</b> over part <b>Y</b> and with it form the +bowline knot on part <b>Z</b> as in the previous case it was +formed on its own part, when it will appear as in +Fig. 2.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_027"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_027.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Bowline on the Bight</b> is used for lowering a +man from aloft or slinging a man over the ship’s side. +Using both parts of the rope together, commence as +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span>in making an ordinary bowline. To finish off, open +out bight <b>C</b>, taking it in the direction indicated by the +dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul +taut when it will appear as in Fig. 2.</p> + +<p><b>A Simple Clinch</b> is formed by closing up the initial +loop to form a small ring and securing, by a seizing, +a small lashing at <b>D</b>.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_028"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_028.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +SIMPLE CLINCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +RUNNING OR INSIDE CLINCH +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +OUTSIDE CLINCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Running</b> or <b>Inside Clinch</b> is formed by the end of +a rope on its own standing part and is often used for +securing buntlines to the foot of a sail.</p> + +<p><b>An Outside Clinch</b> is formed in a similar way but +the end, <b>C</b>, is brought round on top; that is, away from +the bight.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span></p> + +<p><b>The Standing Bowline Knot</b> is formed by passing +the loose end through the lower loop of a figure 8 knot +and seizing or tying the end with small cord or +marline.</p> + +<p><b>Slip Clinches</b> are very easily made. They are really +open running knots seized instead of tied.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_029"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_029.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + STANDING BOWLINE AND SLIP CLINCHES SEIZED + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Running Noose</b> is one of the most common and +useful of running knots used in commerce but it is +only applicable to small cords. A simple knot is made +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>on the end of the cord which is then simply knotted +round.</p> + +<p><b>The Crossed Running Knot</b> is useful in packing +heavy goods as well as a useful anchor fastening.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_030"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_030.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +RUNNING NOOSE +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +CROSSED RUNNING KNOT +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="KNOTS_FOR_UNITING_ROPES"> + KNOTS FOR UNITING ROPES + </h2> +</div> + +<p>The most common knots, those used in everyday +life, are to unite the ends of two separate pieces of +cord or rope.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_031over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_031over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + REEF KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Reef Knot</b> is the simplest of all knots and always +used when a common tie is required. The two +illustrations show how this knot is made. Having +constructed the knot as far as Fig. 1, be sure part <b>A</b> +is kept in front of part <b>B</b> as shown, and the end led +in according to the direction of the dotted line.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_031under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_031under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 3 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + FALSE OR GRANNY KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span></p> + +<p>If the cords be of unequal thickness the knot will +slip, form a loop and part company, as shown in Fig. 1 above. If the ends +are not parallel to the rope it becomes the False Knot +or Granny Knot. Figs. 2 and 3 show the difference.</p> + +<p>A better way to fasten two ropes of unequal size +is to tie or seize the ends (Fig. 1 below) and when this +is done as shown the square knot or reef can be made +as usual.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_032over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_032over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc c12"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 <span style="padding-left:6em;">FIG. 3</span><br>OPEN-HAND KNOT +</td> + +</tr> +</table> + + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Open-Hand Knot</b> is a good one for joining two +ropes of unequal diameter. It is very quickly made +and has the recommendation of never slipping or untying. +If, however, a great strain is put on the rope +it is apt to break at the knot. The illustrations above, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>one showing the open formation (Fig. 2), and the other +its back view when drawn taut (Fig. 3), explain the +process of making.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_032under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_032under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 3 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + WEAVER’S KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Weaver’s Knot</b> is very useful in joining small +cord or twine and is the best for thread. The ends +are crossed as in Fig. 1 and both cords are held between +the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The right +end, <b>A</b>, is then looped back over the left end and +brought under the thumb, where it is held fast, while +the right-hand end, <b>B</b>, is slipped through the loop. +The knot (Fig. 3) is then formed by tightening the +right-hand cord. If cord thicker than thread is used, +the end, <b>B</b>, must be held between the thumb and +finger of the left hand while the knot is being drawn +taut, as in Fig. 4 (below).</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_033"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_033.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 4 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 5 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 6 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + FISHERMAN’S KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Fisherman’s</b> or <b>Englishman’s Knot</b> is of quite +another character. It is formed by two simple knots +(Fig. 7) slipped over each cord as in Fig. 5, and when +drawn taut its front appearance is seen in Fig. 6. It +is used by anglers, as it may be separated by taking +the ends <b>A</b> and <b>B</b> in Fig. 6 so as to admit a third line.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_034over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_034over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 7 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 8 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 9 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + ORDINARY KNOT OR TIE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Ordinary Knot</b> or <b>Tie</b> for uniting large ropes +is shown in Fig. 8. It has all the advantages of the +open-hand knot, with the additional recommendations +that it is easy to make, very strong and does not strain +the fibres of the rope. First make the simple knot +(Fig. 7) and then interlace the other cord in the manner +shown in Fig. 8. When drawn taut it has the +appearance of Fig. 9. If the ends are whipped it is +really a neat and handsome as well as useful knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_034under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_034under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SHORTENING TIE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Shortening Tie</b> is used when there is too much +rope and where it is necessary to use a large knot for +the purpose of preventing its running too far through +the eye, ring or loop. It is formed by making the +figure of 8 knot at the end of a rope, then interlacing it +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>with another rope, and when drawn taut it has the +appearance of the third diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_035"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_035.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A ROPE YARN KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Rope Yarn Knot</b> is for joining two yarns together +and is clearly shown in the diagram.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="BENDS_AND_HITCHES"> + BENDS AND HITCHES + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>It is rather difficult to say where knots end and +bends begin, because a tie made in a particular way +and under certain circumstances may be called a knot, +but differently constructed and under other conditions +it is called a bend or a hitch. The result is the same +in each case. A single hitch may be merely a loop +formed in a rope.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_036"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_036.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +HALF HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +TIMBER HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Half Hitch</b> is used generally in conjunction with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>other hitches. Its formation is easily seen from the +diagram.</p> + +<p><b>The Timber Hitch</b> is used to secure the end of a +rope to a spar, also for bending a rope round light +cases, bales, etc., when provisioning ships. It is +formed by making a half hitch with rather a long end +and expanding the end backwards round its own part. +It is used also with a half hitch for towing spars, as +shown in the diagram below.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_037"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_037.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TIMBER HITCH FOR TOWING SPARS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Crabber’s Eye Knot</b> is not well known but is +one that is not likely to part when strained. To make +it bring the end back to form a loop, taking it first +under and then over the standing part, up through the +main loop, over the standing bight again and up +through its own bight. Before the turns are hauled +into their places, the knot will slip on the part <b>A</b>, as in +an ordinary knot. If the part <b>B</b> is hauled upon the +strand, <b>A</b>, which passes through the center knot, +rises and the coil which goes round it jambs, making +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>the knot secure so that it may be used as a running +knot or otherwise, as desired.</p> + +<p><b>A Buntline Hitch</b> is commenced as in making an +outside clinch but instead of putting on a seizing, the +end is passed over and through the bight, as clearly +shown in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_038"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_038.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +CRABBER’S EYE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +BUNTLINE HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Clove Hitch</b> is really a jamming of two half +hitches and is generally used when a small rope has +to be secured to a larger one and the end kept free +for use for further purposes, as in securing ratlines +to the shrouds, and used also for securing the end of +butt slings. Its formation can be followed very easily +in the diagrams.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_039over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_039over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CLOVE HITCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Roband Hitch</b> is very useful when a tackle, +hook, ring or another rope is to be fastened to a beam +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>or spar. This is another simple hitch, clearly illustrated +in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_039under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_039under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +ROBAND HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SLIPPERY HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Slippery Hitch</b> is valuable because of the ease +with which it can be cast off in an emergency. It will +hold securely while there is a strain on the rope.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_040"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_040.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 1 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 2 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + ROLLING HITCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Rolling Hitch</b> is commenced and finished like +a clove hitch, but, as can be seen from the figures, there +is an intermediate round turn between the first and +last hitches. It will be seen that the round turn in +Fig. 2 is taken around both the standing part, <b>A</b>, and +the larger rope <b>B</b>. The great value of this hitch is that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>it does not slip, and this can be rendered doubly sure by +backing the end, <b>C</b>, round the part, <b>D</b>, and securing +the end with a strop. It is used for bending a small +rope to a larger one, for putting a tail jigger on a rope, +and for securing hammocks to gantlines.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_041"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_041.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 3 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FIG. 4 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + ROLLING HITCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Double Blackwall Hitch</b> is made by taking the +bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the +strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the +under part over the hook and crossing the upper part +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>on top of it. It holds better than the two preceding +hitches.</p> + +<p><b>The Marling Hitch</b> is for lashing up hammocks or +putting temporary seizing on two ropes or spars. It +is also used when making swabs.</p> + +<p><b>The Midshipman’s Hitch</b> is used at times instead of +a Blackwall Hitch and it will hold better if the rope is +at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall +hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing +it over the bill of the hook.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_042"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_042.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE BLACKWALL HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +MARLING HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +MIDSHIPMAN’S HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Killick Hitch</b> is a modification of the timber +hitch. After making a timber hitch and hauling it +taut, a single hitch is made and slipped over the end +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>of a stone. This makes a secure anchor on fishing +grounds on rocky coasts where an anchor will not hold.</p> + +<p><b>The Magnus Hitch</b> is a method of securing a rope +to a spar. Take the end of the rope twice round a +spar in front of the standing part, round the spar again +and then pass it through the last bight.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_043"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_043.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc c8"> +KILLICK HITCH +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +MAGNUS HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Round Turn with Two Half Hitches</b> is used to +secure a hawser to the ring of a buoy and the rope in +this case should be parcelled as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p><b>The Marlinespike Hitch</b> is used for heaving the +turns of a seizing taut with a marlinespike or hooking +the hook of tackle to any rope where a small pull is +required. It is formed by the standing part being +picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike +lays under the standing part and over the sides of +the loop. Its advantage is that it never jams.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_044over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_044over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +ROUND TURN WITH<br> +TWO HALF HITCHES +</td> + +<td class="tdc c8"> +MARLINESPIKE<br> +HITCH +</td> + +<td class="tdr nw"> +BLACKWALL HITCH +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Blackwall Hitch</b> is used for hooking a tackle +to a rope and bringing the fall of one jigger to the +double block of another. It consists of a half hitch, +and as soon as any strain comes on it the standing +part, <b>A</b>, jambs the end part, <b>C</b>. By taking another +round turn at <b>B</b>, before passing <b>C</b> under <b>A</b>, it will hold +more securely.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_044under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_044under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + STUN’SAIL HALYARD BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span></p> + +<p><b>A Stun’sail Halyard Bend</b> is simply a Fisherman’s +bend with the end backed again over the last round +and under the first.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_045over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_045over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TOPSAIL HALYARD BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Topsail Halyard Bend</b> is made by bringing the +rope twice round the spar, back over the standing part, +under all turns, over two turns and under the last. +Then jamb all the coils close and haul taut.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_045under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_045under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SHEET BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span></p> + +<p><b>The Sheet Bend</b>, as its name implies, is the method +of attaching the sheet to the clew of the sail. It is also +used for securing boats’ lazy painters to the Jacob’s +ladders of the lower booms. In making a bend the +ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously +as in forming reef knots, but an eye or loop is first +formed in the end of one of the ropes as seen in the +first diagram and the other rope’s end is then rove +through it in the various ways required. To form a +Sheet Bend pass the second rope’s end underneath the +eye at point <b>A</b> and bring up through the loop, then +form with it a half hitch round <b>C</b> and <b>B</b>. It will hold +still better and is less likely to jamb, if the end is +passed round again as in the third diagram. This is +called a Double Sheet Bend.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_046"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_046.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FISHERMAN’S BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span></p> + +<p><b>The Fisherman’s Bend</b> is formed by taking two +round turns around the object to which the rope is to +be secured and then backing the end round in the form +of a half hitch under both the standing part and the +second round turn. The end may be further secured +by taking a half hitch around its own part or by stopping +it to it. The dotted line in the first diagram shows +the direction the end <b>C</b> must take. This bend is used +for bending a hawser to the ring of an anchor or a +rope’s end to a bucket.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_047over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_047over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIMPLE HAWSER BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Hawser Bend</b> is so easy as to be constantly +used when only a temporary purpose has to be served.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_047under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_047under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BOWLINE BEND (UPPER) <span style="padding-left:4em;">HALF HITCH AND SEIZING BEND</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span></p> + +<p><b>The Bowline Bend</b> is the strongest of all knotted +hawsers. It is formed of two Bowline knots, one crossing +the loop of the other as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p><b>The Half Hitch and Seizing Bend</b> is used on hawsers +which are to be joined for a long period. Its formation +is shown in the illustration clearly.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_048"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_048.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CARRICK BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Carrick Bend</b> is for bending two hawsers together +when required to go around a capstan. First +form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in the upper diagram. +Pass the second hawser under the first at <b>A</b>, bring up +through the eye <b>B</b>, back it over the cross at <b>C</b> and +bring up again towards you through the eye <b>B</b>, and +then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respective +parts as shown in the lower diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_049over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_049over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DOUBLE CARRICK BEND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Double Carrick Bend</b> is formed in precisely the +same way, but a complete round turn is taken around +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span>the cross of the first hawser and then led up again +through the eye and finished off.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_049under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_049under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CHAIN HITCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Chain Hitch</b> is used to attach a small rope to +aid in pulling a larger. When it is necessary to use +a lever as a handspike the fastening in the lower diagram +is used. First a clove hitch is formed to the +spar and as many single hitches as required are then +made. It may be finished off with any secure knot.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="KNOTS_FORMED_ON_ROPES_BY"> + KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY + THEIR OWN STRANDS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>If ropes, hawsers or cables are left with their ends +unguarded, they are sure to become untwisted or otherwise +unmanageable. The same is true in a lesser degree +of lanyards and smaller ropes. These can easily +be secured with a fine whipping and the smaller yarns +and threads by a single overhand or other knot. The +ends of ropes at sea are variously treated. In some +instances they are finely tapered to a point, to pass +easily through a block or ring. While some of these +knots for guarding the rope ends may seem fanciful +they are by no means merely ornamental and many of +them play important parts in the standing rigging of a +ship.</p> + +<p>At first glance some of these knots may appear to +be very intricate and difficult to make. They are not +as difficult as their pictures would seem to indicate +and a little thoughtful study, carefully following the explanatory +diagrams, will smooth away all troubles.</p> + +<p><b>To Whip a Rope</b> first lay the end of a length of +twine along the end of the rope, and then, commencing +at the part furthest from the rope’s end take a half +dozen or more turns around both the rope and the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>twine, as shown in the first diagram. Then lay the +twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over +the turns already taken as seen in the second diagram. +To finish off take that portion of the loop designated +<b>A</b>, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope +and part <b>B</b> of the twine until the loop is all used up. +Pull through the remainder snugly by part <b>C</b> and cut +off short when no end of twine will be visible as in +the third diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_051"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_051.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + WHIPPING A ROPE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Palm and Needle Whipping</b> is a permanent way +of securing a rope’s end from fraying and better than +the whipping put on by hand. First place the needle +under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole +length of twine through. Take a number of turns +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut +in turn, and finish up by following round with the +needle between each strand, forming a series of wrappings, +and cut off the end of the twine.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_052"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_052.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + PALM AND NEEDLE WHIPPING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>To point a rope</b> first put on a stop at two and one-half +times the circumference of the rope from the +end, which will leave about the length for pointing. +Unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the strands, +split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle +out of each yarn. A nettle is made by laying up the +yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed. When +the nettles are made up stop them back on the standing +part of the rope. Then with the rest of the yarns, +form the point by scraping them down to a proper +size with a knife and marl them down together with +twine. Divide the nettles, taking every other one up +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>and every other one down. Pass three turns with a +piece of twine which is called the warp very taut round +the part where the nettles separate taking a hitch +with the last turn. Repeat this process by placing +every alternate nettle up or down, passing the warp +or filling, taking a hitch each time until the point is +to its required length. You may either form a bight +with the last lay by passing the warp through the +bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or, work +a becket in the end by taking a small piece of rope one-fourth +the size of the rope, form a bight, unlay the +ends, and twist the six strands up again by two taking +some of the inside yarns and lay them up as the rope, +then short splice that and the becket together and +marl it down.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_053"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_053.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + POINTING A ROPE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span></p> + +<p><b>The Wall Knot</b> is used for finishing off seizings +forming a shroud knot. It is also used on the end of a +rope to prevent it unreeving. To form a wall knot +first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in +the first diagram below.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_054"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_054.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + WALL KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right +lead strand <b>A</b> in the direction indicated, viz., under +strand <b>B</b> and up between strands <b>B</b> and <b>C</b> as in the +second diagram.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_055"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_055.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + WALL KNOT IN MAKING AND FINISHED + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Then with strand <b>B</b> form a similar loop, enclosing +strands <b>A</b> and <b>C</b> and bringing the end of strand <b>B</b> up +between <b>A</b> and <b>D</b> as in the first diagram above.</p> + +<p>Now with strand <b>C</b> form a similar loop enclosing +strands <b>B</b> and <b>A</b> by leading the end of strand <b>C</b> up +through the loop <b>E</b> in strand <b>A</b> as in the second +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>diagram. Finally work all parts well taut, whip the +ends of the strands together and cut off short, at the +bottom diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_056"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_056.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CROWNING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Double Wall Knot</b> is formed by making the +single wall knot first and not hauling it taut. Then +take one end and bring it underneath the part of the +first walling next to it and push it up through the +same bight. Do the same with the other strands, +pushing them up and through two bights. If made +this way it will have a double and a single crown. A +double wall double crowned is a continuation of the +double wall. The strands are laid by the side of +those of the single crown and pushed through the same +bight in the single crown and down through the double +walling as shown in the illustration. The middle +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>figure shows one method of finishing a single wall by +cutting off the strands and tying them with twine. +The double crowned wall knot may be finished by a +Lark’s Nest by interlacing the loose strands one within +another by a requisite number of turns over the pudding. +This forms a knot at the end of the rope.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_057"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_057.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +CROWN KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +MANROPE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc c6"> +STOPPER<br>KNOT +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Crown Knot</b> or crowning forms the basis of +other knots. To make a crown pass the bights of the +first and second strands over the second and third +strands respectively, dip the end of the third down +through the bight of the first and work the knot into +shape. Its construction can be followed very easily +in the diagram. Double crowning is done by following +round each strand again alongside the first lead.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span></p> + +<p><b>The Manrope Knot</b> is used for securing the upper +ends of the gangway manropes. It is made by first +forming a wall and then crowning it as in the first +diagram. Then follow round the wall again and +lastly follow round the crown, when the finished knot +will appear as in the second diagram.</p> + +<p><b>The Stopper Knot</b> is used in the ends of stoppers +and is made by forming a wall and half a wall, putting +on a good whipping about two or three inches from +the knot and cut off the ends.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_058"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_058.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TURK’S HEAD KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Turk’s Head Knot</b> is worked upon a rope with +a piece of small line. Take a clove hitch slack with +the rope with the line round the rope. Then take one +of the bights formed by the clove hitch and put it over +the other, pass the end under, and up, through the bight +which is underneath. Then cross the bights again +and put the end round again, under, and up, through +the bight which is underneath. After this follow the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>lead and it will make a turban of three parts to each +cross.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_059"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_059.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Single Matthew Walker Knot</b> is used for securing +the standing part of a rope or making beckets for +buckets, etc. To make this knot begin as for the wall +knot but pass the first strand <b>A</b> under both <b>B</b> and <b>C</b> +as shown in the first diagram. Then pass <b>B</b> under +both strands <b>C</b> and <b>A</b>, and bring up through the first +loop formed by <b>A</b>, shown in the second diagram.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_060"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_060.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THIRD PROCESS OF MATTHEW WALKER KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Similarly pass <b>C</b> under <b>A</b> and <b>B</b> and bring up +through the loops first formed by <b>A</b> and <b>B</b> as seen +in the third diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_061"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_061.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DOUBLE MATTHEW WALKER OPEN AND TAUT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Double Matthew Walker</b> is easily made when +one notices the difference between a single Matthew +Walker and a wall knot. In the wall knot each strand +is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on +its right coming up through the loop formed by the +second strand. In the single Matthew Walker each +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>strand interlaces the two strands to its right coming +up through the loop of the third strand. Another +evolution in the same order gives the double Matthew +Walker. It is formed as will be seen in the diagram +by making each strand contain its own loop, the other +two strands and its own end, that is, each strand leads +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>up through its own bight after interlacing the other +two.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_062"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_062.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT MAKING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Single Diamond Knot</b> is made some distance +from the end of a rope. It is therefore necessary to +unlay the rope considerably more than is required in +the preceding knots and as the strands will have to +be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in +the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of +the three strands down alongside the standing part +of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold them +thus with the left hand. Take the first strand <b>A</b> as +shown in the diagram and putting it over the next, +<b>B</b>, bring it up through the bight of the third strand, <b>C</b>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_063over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_063over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DIAMOND KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Take the end of the second strand over the third +and up through the bight of the first. The last strand +is brought over the first and up through the bight of +the second. Haul taut and lay the rope up again. +The first diagram above shows the loops in their places +with the ends through them before they are hauled +taut and the second diagram shows the completed knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_063under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_063under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span></p> + +<p><b>The Double Diamond Knot</b> is made first like the +single diamond and then the ends are made to follow +the lead of the single knot through two single bights, +the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last +strand passes through two double bights. The ends +are then hauled taut and laid up as for the manrope +knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_064"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_064.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SHROUD KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Shroud Knot</b> is of use in joining two ropes +together, particularly in joining a stay or shroud that +has been carried away. Each rope is unlaid the necessary +length and they are then brought close together. +A wall knot is formed on each rope with the strands +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span>of the other as seen in the first diagram. The completed +knot is seen in the second diagram but to make +a neat job the ends should be marled and served as +in the third diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_065"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_065.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SNAKING AND SEIZING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Snaking</b> or <b>Seizing</b> is done by taking the end under +and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately, +passing over the whole. The whole may be whipped +also with small twine. The ends of a four-stranded +rope may be thus secured. The end is first whipped +as shown at <b>A</b> in the diagram. The four strands are +then opened out. They are then brought down over +the end in loops and the strands tied together, as in +the second diagram, or they may be simply brought +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>down and bound to the cable with twine, as shown in +the third diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_066"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_066.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Spritsail Sheet Knot</b> is made by unlaying both +ends of a rope and bringing the two standing parts +together as in the first diagram. Grasp both parts of +the rope at <b>A</b>, with the six strands form a wall knot, +that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 +under 5, 5 under 6 and 6 under the loop formed by 1. +Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>top in an opposite direction and crown by passing the +other four, each in turn, alternately over and under +these two. Each of the six strands will then come +out leading in a downward direction alongside the +strands forming the first walling. Now follow round +the walling again, when the strands will come through +in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the +first crowning. Follow through the crowning once +more and cut off the short ends, when a handsome and +useful stopper knot will result as in the second diagram.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SHORTENINGS"> + SHORTENINGS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Shortenings are, as the term implies, knots that +take up the surplus cord and keep the ends from being +in the way. A piece of rope or cord is often too +long and to cut it would be waste, so a shortening +knot is used. Sometimes the tie, four, five or six-fold +knots are used for this purpose.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_068"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_068.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SINGLE PLAIT OR CHAIN KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Single Plait</b>, or as the sailor terms it, the +Chain Knot, is the commonest of all these knots. First +make a running loop and then draw the loose end +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>through the loop and repeat this operation until all +excess of cord has been taken up. The end may be +secured by bringing the end of the rope through the +loop or by passing a belaying pin through the loop. +These two methods are illustrated in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_069"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_069.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TWIST KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Twist Knot</b> is an ordinary three plait, although +it is formed with one piece of rope. It is more useful +than when formed of three separate pieces, for the +ends are fastened and it cannot come undone. To +make this twist hold the double loop in the left hand; +the side <b>A</b> is then brought over to <b>B</b>, with a half +turn <b>B</b> is crossed over to <b>A</b> and the process of an +ordinary three plait is continued until the end of the +rope is reached, when the loose end is passed through +the bight and the knot is fastened and completed.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_070over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_070over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DOUBLE CHAIN KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Double Chain Knot</b> is very easily made, if the +first loop is made secure by a twist in the rope as +shown in the diagram, and then pass the loose end +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>through the preceding loop right and left until the +knot is finished.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_070under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_070under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SHEEP SHANK OR DOG SHANK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span></p> + +<p><b>The Sheep Shank</b>, or <b>Dog Shank</b> as it is sometimes +called, is an old-fashioned method of shortening a +rope and can be used on any sized cordage. It is +used for shortening a rope which requires lengthening +again. Gather up the amount to be shortened in +the form of the upper illustration. Then with parts +<b>A</b> and <b>B</b> form a half hitch round the two parts of the +bight as in the second figure.</p> + +<p>To render it still more dependable the bights <b>A</b> and +<b>B</b> may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as +in the third and fourth figures.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_071ovewr"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_071ovewr.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BEND SHORTENING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Bend Shortening</b> or <b>Simple Loop</b> is a plain, useful +expedient for stout rope and has the merit of not injuring +the ropes by an unnecessary strain, or crossing +the fibres of the hemp. It will not, however, +stand any great strain.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_071under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_071under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BOW SHORTENING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span></p> + +<p><b>The Bow</b> or <b>Knot Shortening</b> is very quickly made. +It is simply an ordinary knot in the middle of a rope +in which a double bend has previously been made. It +is not adapted to heavy ropes nor will it stand a heavy +strain.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_072"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_072.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CATSPAW + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Catspaw</b> is one of the easiest made loops to be +used for hooking on the block of a tackle or shortening +up a bale sling stop. First throw back a bight as +shown in the first diagram. Then taking hold of <b>A</b> +and <b>B</b>, one in each hand, twist them up as in the second +diagram. Bring the two eyes <b>A</b> and <b>B</b> together and +hook in the tackle.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="TIES"> + TIES + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>When the many varieties of knots and ties are +analyzed it will be found that ties used in trades are +all taken first from the mariner. The sailor learned +to fasten ropes so that they were able to take up all +strains evenly and to hold without chafing or without +any undue strain being put on any one part of the +rope. Consequently when builders erect scaffolding +they use the ties and knots long known at sea. The +Clove Hitch is also known as the Builder’s Knot because +it is used to hold the scaffolding. The Clove +Hitch is used by surgeons in cases of dislocation. +The Reef Knot is also used by surgeons to tie arteries +when performing operations. So it is with many other +knots and because of their uses for other than nautical +work they have often received other names.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_073"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_073.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIMPLE KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span></p> + +<p><b>The Simple Knot</b> is the foundation for many ties. +In the illustration this knot is seen made around a mast +or other solid substance. This simple knot can at +once become a clove hitch or the builder’s knot which +is illustrated on <a href="#Page_39">page 39</a>.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_074"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_074.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE BUILDER’S KNOT<br>SINGLE BOW KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE BOW KNOT<br>SINGLE TWIST KNOT +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Double Builder’s Knot</b> is shown in the diagram +above, upper left. It is made in the same way as the +clove hitch or builder’s knot except that the end goes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>around again as before and underneath its own part +so making it much stronger.</p> + +<p><b>The Single Bow Knot</b> is one of the most common +of the knots in general use. It is commenced with +the simple knot and made by doubling one of the +loose ends as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p><b>The Double Bow Knot</b> or rosette knot is begun +in the same way. Care must be taken to keep the +simple knot taut until the bow knot is completed. +The ends must lie straight as in the reef knot or it +will become the false knot.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p> + +<p><b>The Double Twist Knot</b> is useful when small cords +are used and tightness is required. The diagram below, +upper left, shows how it is made.</p> + +<p><b>The Tent Pole Knot</b>, below, lower left, +is one that can be used to advantage by all who have +to occupy tents or to travel much. It is a simple loop +made by joining the two ends of a rope with a fisherman’s +knot. This admits a short cross-bar or wooden +pin and it will enable the traveler to suspend clothes +or other articles around a tent pole. The cord may +also be used for a toggle when two pieces of wood +have to be joined together.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_075"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_075.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE TWIST KNOT<br> +TENT POLE KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +RUNNING KNOT<br> +RUNNING KNOT CHECKED +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span></p> + +<p><b>A Running Knot</b> with two ends is used when it is +inconvenient to divide the rope. Unless the ends are +at liberty it could not be used round a mast, but it +can be easily slipped round a pier.</p> + +<p>This knot is frequently checked by a bow as shown +in the diagram above, lower right.</p> + +<p>It is sometimes checked by a Flemish Knot or by +a Check Knot. These two knots cannot be tied unless +the ends are loose. They cannot be untied without +assistance from a marlinespike or some similar contrivance.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_076"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_076.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + RUNNING KNOT CHECKED BY A FLEMISH KNOT (LEFT) + AND BY A CHECK KNOT (RIGHT) + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span> + +<p><b>The Stationer’s Knot</b> is handy for tying a parcel +as it can be made rapidly and undone with ease. +Make a running noose at the end of a piece of twine +and bring it to the center of the parcel. Take the +twine round the parcel at right angles, round the noose +and making a bight slip it under as illustrated. A +pull at the end releases the knot instantly.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_077"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_077.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + STATIONER’S KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="PURCHASES_AND_SLINGS"> + PURCHASES AND SLINGS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p><b>Single Whip</b>—rope rove through a single block +fixed in any position. It is used for light work. No +power is gained.</p> + +<p><b>Double Whip</b>—rope rove through two single blocks—upper +block a tail block, lower one movable hook +block. The standing part of the fall is secured close +to the tail block. The power gained is double.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_079"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_079.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +SINGLE WHIP +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE WHIP +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +RUNNER +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +GUN TACKLE +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span></p> + +<p><b>Runner</b>—a piece of rope rove through a single +block with a standing eye in one end and pointed at the +other. The power gained is double.</p> + +<p><b>Gun Tackle</b>—two single blocks. Power gained—twice +or three times according to which is the movable +block.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_080"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_080.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc nw"> +HANDY BILLY<br>OR JIGGER +</td> +<td class="tdc nw"> +WATCH OR<br> LUFF TACKLE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE<br>LUFF +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +THREE-FOLD<br>PURCHASE +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Jigger</b>—a small tackle for general use; a double +block with a tail called a jigger and a single block +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>with a hook. The standing part of the fall is spliced +into the strop of the single block. Power gained—three +or four times.</p> + +<p><b>Handy Billy</b> is a small tackle for general use.</p> + +<p><b>Up and Down Tackle</b>—a double and single block. +The double block is fitted with a thimble, the single +block is a hook block, fitted with a long strop. The +standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of the +single block. Power gained—three times.</p> + +<p><b>Luff Tackle</b>—two hook blocks, one double and one +single. The standing part of the fall of this tackle is +spliced into a strop of the single block. It is sometimes +rove through a becket in the single block and +secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck +of it. Power gained—three or four times.</p> + +<p><b>Double Luff Tackle</b>—two double blocks.</p> + +<p><b>Three-fold Purchase</b>—two three-fold blocks. Power +gained—six or seven times.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_082"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_082.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +FOUR-FOLD<br>PURCHASE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SINGLE<br>SPANISH<br>BURTON +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Four-fold Purchase</b>—two four-fold blocks. Power +gained—eight times.</p> + +<p><b>Single Spanish Burton</b>—two blocks and a hook. +Power gained—three times. It is not in general use.</p> + +<p><b>Burton</b>—a double hook block and a single hook +block, fitted with a long strop, the standing part being +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>spliced round the strop and hook of the single block. +Power gained—three times.</p> + +<p><b>Runner and Tackle</b>—consists of three blocks, one +double and two single. One of the single blocks is +fitted with a thimble, as a lashing or shackling block, +through which the runner is rove. The double block +of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The +standing part of the tackle is spliced in the seat of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>single block which is fitted with a long strop and hook. +Power gained—eight times.</p> + +<p><b>Double Spanish Burton</b>—There are two forms of +this purchase. One by using three single blocks and +the other by using one double and two single blocks. +Power gained—five times.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_083"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_083.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SPANISH WINDLASS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Spanish Windlass</b>—To rig a Spanish windlass +take a good strand well greased in the center. Place +the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to +be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand +up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the +ends of the strand and lay them up with their own +parts so as to form two eyes. Take a round turn with +this round the bolt, put a marlinespike in each eye +and heave around.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span></p> + +<p><b>A Parbuckle</b> is used for hauling up or lowering +down a cask, or any cylindrical object where there is no +crane or tackle. Middle the rope to be used for the +parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as most +convenient; the two ends are then passed under +the two quarters of the cask, bring the ends back +again over it and they both being hauled taut or +slackened together either raise or lower the cask as +may be required. Care must be taken to keep an equal +strain on both parts to prevent the cask slipping out.</p> + +<p>There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz., +with butt slings, bale slings and head up, also by means +of can hooks.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_084"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_084.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +PARBUCKLE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +BUTT SLINGS +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +BALE SLINGS +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +CAN HOOKS +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Butt Sling</b> is a single piece of rope fitted with an +eye splice in one end and the other end pointed or +whipped. To sling the cask, the cask is placed on its +bilge bung up; reeve the end of the sling through the +eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span>end of the cask between the first and second hoops and +haul well taut, the eye splice being in line with the +bungs; then take the end of the sling round the other +end of the cask between the first and second hoops +and clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the +bung.</p> + +<p><b>A Bale Sling</b> is a single piece of rope short spliced +together. To sling a cask, the cask is placed on its +bilge bung up, the slings passed underneath both ends +of the cask between the first and second hoops; the +bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight +passed through the other, taking care the cross is in +line with the bung.</p> + +<p><b>Can Hooks</b> are used for breaking off a cask, that is +for lifting out the first cask of a tier where there is +not room to put on a butt or bale sling. Casks are +never hoisted up with can hooks.</p> + +<p><b>To pass a life line</b> dip the end under the slings and +over the davit and take two or three turns round all +parts and hold on to the end.</p> + +<p>To pass a life line for a “full due” proceed as above +but substitute half hitches for round turns and tuck +the end in.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span></p> + +<p><b>To sling a cask</b> head up the cask is placed on its +end, pass a rope under the bottom fairly in the center, +then form an overhand knot with both ends of the +rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and +place bights over the head between the first and second +loops, haul them well taut, then reef-knot both ends +together on top.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe8" id="i_086"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_086.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SLING A CASK ON END + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Stropper</b> is used for securing a rope while it is +being belayed. Take the stropper in the left hand, +make a half hitch against the lay, dog the end with the +lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed rope +the end of the stropper should be passed under the +rope from left to right. To put a strop on a hemp +rope, center the bight of the strop and place it over the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span>rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and over, +and hook on the tackle to both bights.</p> + +<p><b>To put a strop on a Spar</b> use the ordinary bale sling +strop.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_087"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_087.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +TO PAN A<br>STROPPER +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +TAIL JIGGER +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Tail Jigger</b> is similar to a stropper but with an +additional turn. To put on a tail jigger take the first +two parts of a rolling hitch, dog the end with the lay +and seize it.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="FASTENINGS_MOORINGS_AND"> + FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND + RING KNOTS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with +which the sailor will handle big ropes and the way in +which he will warp a vessel in or out of a dock or +moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable +round a post or cleat which are on the vessels themselves +or on the pier-head.</p> + +<p><b>The Simple Stoppered Loop</b> is familiar to all and +when the end of the rope can be constantly used no +other fastening is required.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_088"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_088.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +LARK’S HEAD +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SIMPLE STOPPERED LOOP +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span></p> + +<p><b>A Lark’s Head</b> can easily be made over a post when +there is a running noose or knot. This is clearly +shown in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_089"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_089.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +WATERMAN’S KNOT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +TWISTED ROPE FASTENING +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Waterman’s Knot</b> is used when the end of the +rope is not stoppered or when the middle of the rope +must be used. This is similar to the clove hitch. It +can very quickly be made by placing two loops on +the rope as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p>The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated +clearly in the diagram to the right of the Waterman’s +Knot.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_090over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_090over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TWO LOOPS OF A WATERMAN’S KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Chain Fastening</b> is of a more permanent +character, and is used when a vessel is to be moored +for any length of time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_090under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_090under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CHAIN FASTENING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span></p> + +<p>Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used +for the mooring of vessels. In these instances the +fastenings vary. The diagram shows a double fastening +to sheaves.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_091"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_091.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DOUBLE CHAIN FASTENING TO SHEAVES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A loop fastening to sheaves</b> may be tied or untied +without untying the loop itself. It is made by passing +the loops, <b>A</b>, <b>B</b>, <b>C</b>, <b>D</b>, and <b>E</b> as shown and then placing +the loop <b>F</b> over the head of the right-hand post of the +sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable <b>F</b> will +again slip over the head of the post and the turns and +then reversed. There is a more simple fastening by +wrapping the cable round the angle of the sheaves.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_092over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_092over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + LOOP FASTENING TO SHEAVES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The crossed and square fastenings</b> as shown in the +diagrams need no explanation. The ends are secured +by being stoppered to the cable.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_092under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_092under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CROSSED AND SQUARE FASTENING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_093over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_093over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SQUARE FASTENING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round +turn, then a figure of 8 knot is made round the cleat +pin and repeated twice. On no account should a half +hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The +main object is to insure that the rope will not jamb.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_093under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_093under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TO SECURE A ROPE ROUND A BELAYING PIN OR ROUND A CLEAT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span></p> + +<p>A study of the many knots used for fastenings or +moorings show that they are only practical applications +of many of the knots, bends or hitches that have +already been illustrated in preceding chapters of this +book.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_094"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_094.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FIGS. 1 to 6 + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Sailor’s Knot</b> is a very simple mooring knot for +the painter of a small boat. It is shown on Figs. 1 and +2. This knot shows one line straight while the end is +twisted round in two hitches.</p> + +<p><b>The Slippery Ring Knot</b> is shown in Fig. 3. It can +be cast off at any moment. Fig. 4 shows the same +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span>knot but it is made permanent by being stoppered as +seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn +in the ring.</p> + +<p><b>The Simple Boat Knot</b>, Fig. 5, has an advantage for +rapidity of unmooring. It is made with only one turn +in the ring. The loose end is left longer than in the +diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring it is +not very popular with sailors.</p> + +<p><b>The Lark Boat Knot</b>, Fig. 6, is really a double boat +knot. It differs from the boat knot in that a bight +instead of a single end of rope is put through the ring +and a thole used to fasten it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_095"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_095.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FIGS. 7 to 12 + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Boat Knot</b>, Fig. 7, is made in the same way +as the marlinespike hitch, the only difference being +that a thole pin or other small piece of wood is put +through the center of the knot instead of a marlinespike. +By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift +of its own accord.</p> + +<p><b>Simple and Crossed Running Knots</b> are shown in +Figs. 8 and 9. The simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so +secure, but chafes less than the crossed running knot, +Fig. 9.</p> + +<p><b>The Capstan Knot</b>, Fig. 10, is an application of the +figure of 8 knot. To make this cross the end of the +rope after it is through the ring, bring it round the +standing part, through the first bight and through its +own bight.</p> + +<p><b>The Lark’s Head Knot</b>, Fig. 11, is somewhat like +the lark boat knot but instead of the ends being +brought down outside the bight after being passed +through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen +in the ring part of Fig. 11. The whole illustration +shows a Lark’s Head stoppered.</p> + +<p><b>The Lark’s Head Stoppered</b> may be made by passing +a bight through the ring and drawing the two parts +of the rope through the bight. Where this is not practical +by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the +end may be passed up through the ring behind the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>standing part and drawn down through the right and +bight again. Sometimes instead of being stoppered +with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. 11 the end is +seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in +Fig. 12.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_097"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_097.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FIGS. 13 to 18 + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends</b> in Fig. 13 is +made in the same way as the Lark’s head except that +the end comes over instead of through the bight. If +the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in +the other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch +or builder’s knot.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span></p> + +<p><b>The Double Lark’s Head</b>, Fig. 14, is easily followed +in the diagram. A bight is first made and the ends +passed through it, the ends are then put through the +ring and through the loop already made and hauled +taut.</p> + +<p><b>The Treble Lark’s Head</b>, Fig. 15, is not as difficult +as it appears in the diagram. First bring the bight of +the rope up through the ring, then take one of the +ends and pass it through the bight and up through the +ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do +the same with the other part and the knot is formed.</p> + +<p><b>Back-Handed Sailors’ Knots</b> are shown in Figs. 16 +and 17. This knot is made by passing an end through +the ring round at the back of the standing part and +through the ring again, finishing with two half hitches +round the standing part.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_098"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_098.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A SLIP KNOT STOPPERED + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Slip Knots</b> stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above +are easily made and the diagrams show their formation +clearly.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_099over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_099over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SLIP KNOT AND SLIP CLINCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch</b> is another simple +knot and easily followed in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_099under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_099under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + GUNNER’S OR DELAY KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Gunner’s Knot</b> is simply a carrick bend made +with the two ends of a rope after it has been passed +through two rings. This is sometimes called a delay +knot.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_100over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_100over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + LEAD LINE AND LEAD + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Securing Lead Line to Lead.</b>—The lead is fitted +with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead +line should have a long eye spliced in it and is secured +by passing the eye through the grommet and over the +lead.</p> + +<p><b>Hawsers</b> are bent together by two half hitches and +seizing the ends in addition to methods already explained.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_100under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_100under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +BEND HAWSERS +</td> +<td class="tdc nw c8"> +MOUSING A HOOK +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Mousing a hook</b> is to prevent a chain or rope from +slipping off or to prevent it becoming unhooked. A +few turns of a rope yarn are passed round the ends +of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought +round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef +knot.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="LASHINGS_SEIZINGS_ETC"> + LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC. + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a +rope is necessary to anyone who has anything to do +with a vessel no matter what its character. Occasions +constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair +weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that +are fitted with eyes or with other loops.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_101"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_101.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + RUNNING KNOT IN THE EYE OF A ROPE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope</b> is the +simplest of these knots. The diagram shows how this +is made.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_102over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_102over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DEAD-EYE LASHING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Dead-Eye Lashing</b> is one of frequent use on +board full-rigged ships. It admits of easy adjustment +to the strain of the ropes. The ram blocks are fastened +in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and +tightened by the lanyards, <b>A</b>, <b>A</b>, which pass through +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>holes on the dead-eye, so as to tighten or slacken the +rope at will. The ends of the lanyard are fastened to +the main rope.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_102under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_102under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BELAYING-PIN SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Belaying-Pin Splice</b> as shown in the diagram +really illustrates three methods of joining cordage. +The belaying pin is marked <b>A</b>. It is stoppered on the +end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through +the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is +formed. Through this loop or bend a button secured +to the rope, <b>B</b>, by a single knot is passed, and the +double junction is complete.</p> + +<p><b>The Wedding Knot</b> or <b>Rose Lashing</b> is one to join +two rope ends both having eyes. The lashing is passed +successively through both eyes and then tied in the +center.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_103_a"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_103_a.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + WEDDING KNOT (UPPER) <span style="padding-left:4em;">SHELL LASHING</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Shell Lashing</b> is made by looping two ends of +rope around a spherical shell and seizing the end to the +standing parts.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_103_b"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_103_b.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A CROSS LASHING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Cross Lashing</b> is used when a lever is used to a +rope. After several turns round the rope, the lashing +is crossed round the lever and fastened with a reef knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_103_c"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_103_c.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + PORTUGUESE KNOT OR NECKLACE TIE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Portuguese Knot</b> or <b>Necklace Tie</b> is made by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>taking several turns round the spars to be joined, then +two turns round the lashings and secured with a reef +knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_104over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_104over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + NIPPERING OR PACKING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Nippering</b> or <b>Packing</b> is a method for securing two +ropes together with cross turns. These are hauled +taut and further secured by round turns over all after +the ropes have been jammed together. The ends are +fastened with a reef knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_104under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_104under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A West Country Whipping</b> is formed by middling +the twine around the part of the rope to be marked +and half-knotting it at every half turn so that each +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span>knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number +of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_105over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_105over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FINISHING A WHIPPING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay +one end forward as at <b>A</b> in the diagram, then pass the +other end round and round a sufficient number of +times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose +turns are then made and the end passed under these +backwards. These ends are worked down into their +places and when they are hauled taut are cut off.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_105under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_105under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FINISHING A WHIPPING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Another method is, instead of having a single end, +a bight of the seizing is laid along the part to be +whipped and the turns passed over it. When these are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span>completed the end is passed through the bight at <b>A</b>. +The end <b>B</b> is then hauled upon to bring the bight and +the end of the rope snug under the coils. There are +now two loops interlacing at the center of the work +and these cannot come undone. When the ends are +cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_106over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_106over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A USEFUL BAND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The +second end <b>B</b> is drawn through by a turn—a very useful +method of securing a ligature or a fractured fishing rod.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_106under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_106under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + PACKING KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Packing Knot</b> is used for binding timbers together. +The first diagram shows it started at <b>A</b> and <b>B</b> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>shows it completed. It is tightened by means of a +packing-stick, <b>C</b>, which is twisted under the knot and +then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker +plan is two toggles shown in the second diagram. After +twisting the sticks round tie the two ends of the sticks +together.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_107over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_107over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIMPLE PACKING KNOT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Toggle</b> is a piece of wood turned to shape and +having a groove in the center round which the end of +a rope is spliced. An eye is made in another rope by +any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To unfasten +it the ropes are slackened. Another form of +toggle is a round piece of wood shaped like a button. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span>It has a hole in the center through which a rope is +passed and the end knotted.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_107under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_107under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TOGGLES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Jury</b>, or <b>Double Pitcher Knot</b> as it is sometimes +called, is useful when a jury mast has to be +rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the +necessary supports to the mast. The center <b>K</b> in +the second diagram is slipped over the masthead and +the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds +it in its position on the mast.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_108"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_108.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + JURY KNOT, FIRST STAGE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span></p> + +<p>It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each +placed behind the other with the loop of the last laid +over the first. Keep the hitches together with the +right hand and with the left take <b>A</b> and dip it under <b>B</b> +and pull <b>C</b> through <b>A</b> and <b>B</b>.</p> + +<p>Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place <b>F</b> +over <b>E</b> and pull <b>D</b> between <b>E</b> and <b>F</b>. Take <b>G</b> in the +teeth and pull on the parts <b>G</b>, <b>F</b> and <b>A</b>. The ends <b>H</b> +and <b>Z</b> may be either knotted or spliced.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_109"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_109.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + JURY KNOT, COMPLETED + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Racking Seizing</b> is used where the strain is on only +one part of the rope. An eye splice is formed in one +end of racking and the first turn is passed round both +parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is then dipped +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>between both parts and the remaining turns are passed +as racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient +space between each racking turn for a roundabout +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span>turn to lie, the usual number taken being thirteen. +After these are passed the end is dipped down inside +the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from +the end towards the eye between the racking turns. +When the last roundabout turn is passed, the end is +passed up between both parts of the shroud, ready for +passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the +end along the seizing and passing it down between the +seventh and sixth turns along the seizing, again towards +the eye, up between the two parts of the shroud, +as before, and again drawn between the seventh and +sixth turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish +off with a crown and wall as in other seizings.</p> + +<p>To make the racking neater after passing the last +roundabout turn, the end is taken outside all parts of +the racking instead of between the six and seven turns, +and clove formed at the same time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_110"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_110.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + RACKING SEIZING + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SPLICING_AND_ROPE_WORK"> + SPLICING AND ROPE WORK + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables +and even ropes in such a manner that there is no +obvious difference in their diameter and no substantial +weakening of their strength. This can be done only +by splicing, that is, putting the ends together by opening +the strands and placing them into one another, +or if equal diameter is not essential by putting strands +of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When +ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. +In driving ropes, too, knotting is out of the question. +It is calculated that a splice will weaken the strength +of a rope about one-eighth.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_112"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_112.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SHORT SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span></p> + +<p><b>A short splice</b> is used for joining any rope not +needed to travel through a block.</p> + +<p>To make a short splice unlay the rope to the required +length which is twice the circumference of the +rope for the long ends and one and a half times the +circumference for the short ends. When this is done +whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed +together as shown in the first diagram, the strands of +one rope alternately between the strands of the other. +The two ropes are then jammed closely together. The +end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are +now held firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is +better to put a lashing round the strands to keep them +down to the rope on which they lie. The long ends +are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the +left hand over the first strand next to it and underneath +the second strand. Haul it taut in the lay of the rope. +Then enter the right-hand strand and lastly the middle +strand in a similar manner to the first or left-hand +strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. +Put the long ends in again as before, cut the stop off +the fork and put the short ends in once in a similar +way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them +off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the +strands in once and a half each way, take a few of +the underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span>lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and marl +them down ready for serving.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_114"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_114.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + LONG SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Long Splice</b> has many advantages over the +short one. To make it unlay the ends of two ropes to +the length of five and a half times the circumference +of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short +splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space +which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it. +Then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two +next strands that will come opposite their respective +lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, +with the other. Take one-third out of each strand, +knot the opposite strands together and heave them +well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand. +Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_115"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_115.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + EYE SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>An Eye Splice</b> is used by seafarers to splice round +a block, dead-eye or thimble and is formed by unlaying +the end of a rope for a short distance and then laying +three strands upon the standing part so as to form an +eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same +manner as for the short splice. Then put the next +end over that strand and through the second and put +the remaining end through the third strand on the +other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands +and put them in again. To finish off split the strands +and take half of each, seizing them together, and cut +the ends off. When serving is used the strands should +be tapered off.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_116"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_116.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CHAIN SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Chain Splice</b> is used for splicing hemp tails into +chain when required to travel through a block or fairlead, +such as earrings and outhauls for forecastle and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain splice unlay +strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay +the strand, <b>A</b>, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining +strands, <b>B</b> and <b>C</b>, through the link in the end +of the chain; continue unlaying the strand, <b>A</b>, and lay +up strand, <b>B</b>, in its place for about a foot, then half +knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the +strand <b>C</b> as for an eye splice.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_117"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_117.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CUT SPLICE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Cut Splice</b> is made by laying two ropes in the +position indicated in the upper diagram. Leaving the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span>ropes between <b>A</b>, <b>A</b>, to form an oblong loop, tuck the +strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye +splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.</p> + +<p>It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted +strands of ropes. For this purpose a marlinespike is +used for large ropes. This is made of iron, copper or +hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust +like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used +for small stuff. For very large ropes a fid, which is +a tapered wooden pin usually made of lignum vitæ, is +used.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_118over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_118over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + MARLINESPIKE <span style="padding-left:4em;">PRICKER (ABOVE)</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Grommet</b> is a ring of rope. To make it cut a +strand about three and one-half times the length of +the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and +keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand +in the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram +and then pass the ends round and round in their +original lay until all the intervals are filled up as +shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two +ends as in a long splice.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_118under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_118under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + GROMMET + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span></p> + +<p><b>An Artificial Eye</b> is made somewhat like a long +splice. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand; +lay the two strands back to the standing part of the +rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over the +end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns +down the standing part and lies under the eye with +strands. Then divide the strands, taper them down +and serve them over with spunyarn.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_119"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_119.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc c8"> +ARTIFICIAL EYE +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +FLEMISH EYE +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>The Flemish Eye</b> is a little more difficult to make. +The rope is first whipped and the strands unlaid to the +whipping and opened out, separating each rope yarn. +Take a piece of wood the size of the intended eye, <b>A</b>, +between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch +over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span>them somewhat; seize the ends and worm them between +the strands at the shoulder. Then marl all +down, parcel and serve the ends.</p><a href="#Page_48"></a> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_120over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_120over.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THROAT SEIZING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Throat Seizing</b> is made by opening the end slightly +and lashing it to the standing part. The ring shown +in the diagram is one of a variety occasionally used. +It is useful to pass other ropes through in the rigging. +Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a +short piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping +the short piece to give the requisite ring.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_120under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_120under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SELVAGEE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Selvagee</b> is used to form a neat stropping for +blocks or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span>fastened. To make a selvagee strop drive a couple +of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any +convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which +will answer the same purpose. Put the nails or hooks +at the required distance apart, according to the length +of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope yarn +and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass +it round the other spike and keep passing roundabout +turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until +the strop is the required thickness. If it is to be a +very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a +small strop use two-rope yarn.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_121"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_121.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span></p> + +<p><b>To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.</b>—To +do this is necessary when a sail is increased by +the addition of, say, one cloth. Then the foot rope +must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth +is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping +the rope off four cloths, first cut the strand at the +distance 2 feet 6 inches from each other, as shown in +the diagram below.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_122"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_122.png" alt=""> +</figure> + +<p>Cut one strand at <b>A</b> and unlay it to <b>C</b>, then cut one +of the remaining strands at <b>C</b> and unlay it to <b>B</b>, laying +the strand <b>A</b> up again as far as <b>B</b>. Then cut the remaining +strand at <b>B</b>, which will be the center, and the +rope will be in two parts, as seen in the diagram above.</p> + +<p>Now marry the long end <b>A</b> to the end <b>B</b>, then lay +up the long strand <b>A</b> and marry it to the other strand +<b>B</b>, as in the diagram below.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_123over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_123over.png" alt=""> +</figure> + +<p>Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same +size rope and marry one end to the short strand <b>A</b>, +as shown in the diagram. Fill up the space left from +<b>A</b> to <b>C</b> by laying in the new strand and marry the +other end to the short strand <b>C</b>. There will then be +four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_123under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_123under.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve +it from wet or chafe.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></p> + +<p><b>Worming</b> is done to fill up the space between the +strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope, to +render the surface smooth and round for parcelling +and serving.</p> + +<p><b>Parcelling</b> a rope is laying round it with the lay +of the rope strips of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 +inches wide according to the size of the rope, before +serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling overlapping +the upper edge of the turn below it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_124"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_124.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +WORMING +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +PARCELLING +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +SERVING +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Serving</b> is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn +or other small stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn +is put, or, hove on by a serving mallet which has a +score in the underpart according to the size of the +rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the +rope. The sailor’s adage says:</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +Worm and parcel with the lay.<br> +And serve the rope the other way. +</div></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span></p> + +<p>The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it +under the first two or three coils. The serving mallet +after being placed against the rope has two or three +turns passed round its body and another turn or two +on the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut +as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle. +An extra man is needed for passing the ball of serving +stuff. When the required length of service is put on, +the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut +and cut off.</p> + +<p><b>To make a cringle</b> unlay a single strand from the +rope the size the cringle is required to be. Whip both +ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet-hole +in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third longer +than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward +you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the +two parts of the strand together, counting three lays. +Commence with the short end of the strands toward +you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it +through the cringle and it will be in right position +to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle. When +done the one end will hand down inside the right-hand +eyelet-hole and the other end outside the left-hand +one. The ends are then hitched by being rove +through their respective eyelet-holes and passed over +the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>being towards you and the other from you. Then take +the ends down under one strand on the right and two +on the left of the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends +under the first two strands nearest the hitch leaving +them well in place. The cringle is then fidded out and +the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The +ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, +under one strand, again under two right-handed as in +the first place. Heave them taut in place at each tuck, +whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut +off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number +of lays, 5, 7, 9, etc., always an odd number.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_126"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_126.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A CRINGLE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span></p> + +<p>To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already +told. After laying up the strand together instead +of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are +rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked +back under two strands of the cringle and again laid +up as far as the crown forming a four-stranded cringle. +It is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands +and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and +cut off close.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe8" id="i_127"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_127.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CRINGLE ON A CROWN + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span></p> + + + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="WIRE_ROPE_SPLICING"> + WIRE ROPE SPLICING + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to +prevent kinks getting into the rope or strands. Once +a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, +and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable +should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted +on a spindle makes an excellent one)—the rope will +then lead off perfectly straight without kinks.</p> + +<p>With steel wire rope, always before working it +put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay, +and put a good whipping of twine at the end of +each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made +against the lay of the rope.</p> + +<p>In making an eye splice the rope is handled better +if hung up in a convenient position, so that when standing +up the eye will be at about the level of the chest +of the person working.</p> + +<p>A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and +after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it +until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand +drawn through.</p> + +<p>To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the +rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span>the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short +nip, but take long lays.</p> + +<p>In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two +strands simultaneously to keep the rope in its original +lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 feet of each +end.</p> + +<p>Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs +of strands are in their places, single them and continue +to unlay and lay in until the six meeting places of the +strands are equidistant.</p> + +<p>To finish off the ends properly can only be learned +by observation and actual practice. By using two +marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed and the +ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, +making a very neat job when finished.</p> + +<p>Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas +and served.</p> + +<p><b>Short Splice.</b>—The same procedure is gone through +as for splicing hemp rope, only care must be taken to place +a good whipping on where the ends marry, and that +each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. The number +of tucks taken should never be less than three +whole and one-half and one-third, so as to taper the +splice off. The number of tucks to be taken off varies +according to the work required of the rope or strop, +but as a rule the more the better.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span></p> + +<p>In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered +in front of the marlinespike, which should not be +withdrawn until this has been done, care being taken +not to kink the strand.</p> + +<p><b>Eye Splice.</b>—Make the crown of the eye, take half +the girth of the thimble and rope to be used and put a +good stout whipping on to the wire, break the wire into +shape of the thimble and heave both parts of the wire +together by means of the rigging screws supplied for +this purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around +both sides of the wire and thimble at the ends of the +latter. Then remove the rigging screws and unlay the +end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each +strand and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. +Then put a whipping on the ends of the six strands, +commence the splice by tucking the right-hand strand +first, then the others in succession, each strand under +one. The left-hand strand being the last is tucked +under two. This ensures that each strand takes a fair +strain. Care should be taken to keep the strands +straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well +down with an iron hammer and put on a good seizing +of spun yarn. Then tuck each strand a second time. +Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three times +full and tapered to a third.</p> + +<p><b>Steel Wire Hawsers.</b>—The splices of the wire are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>made against the lay of the rope tucked three times +with the full size of the strand and a fourth time with +the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable +taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the +lay of the rope. The center core of the rope is removed +on opening out the strands for splicing, and the cores +of the strands removed after the first tuck has been +made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times +the girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the +rope. The splice is then parcelled and served, the +thimble tightly seized in with flat seizing crossed.</p> + +<p><b>Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.</b>—This +can be done either by the long or short splice, but the +former is recommended, as the short splice, though +equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In +the long splice, if properly made, no such inequality +exists; indeed the spliced part should be difficult to +locate.</p> + +<p>To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference +should have a splice not less than 60 feet to be +safe, and smaller sizes in proportion down to 1½-inch +circumference, for which size 25 feet will do. Take +the 3½-inch rope as an example.</p> + +<p>Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a +sound marline serving at those points. Then cut off +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span>the end servings and tie the strands together in twos and +interlock, as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_132"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_132.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite +close together, otherwise rope has a tendency to open +out further back and thus throw the length wrong. +Then open strands out singly and snip off short six of +the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to +say, leave a long end in each case opposite one of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>snipped ends. Take each of the short ends in turn and +carefully unlay them, at the same time laying in its +place the corresponding long end.</p> + +<p>This should be done with all the strands, and +reckoning from the center on each side, the first one +should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15 feet, and +the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally +as shown in the lower diagram.</p> + +<p>Then commence at the first strand at either end. +First put the marlinespike through the center of the +rope where the ends cross, cut and remove the hemp +heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two +spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed +and follow up to the end of the strand, pulling out the +heart a few inches at a time.</p> + +<p>Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no +empty space is left in the center of the rope by cutting +of the hemp core further away than the strand end +will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each +end with parcelling before it is put into the center of +the rope, as this tends to give parts of the splice a good +grip of one another. To finish off and remove inequalities, +lay the splice on deck and hammer with a heavy +wooden mallet.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_135"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_135.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A PAUNCH MAT + </figcaption> +</figure> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="MATTING"> + MATTING + </h2> +</div> + + +<p><b>A Paunch Mat</b> is used as a protection from chafe +on shipboard. Stretch a piece of rope according to the +size of the mat required in a horizontal position and +fasten each end. Across this hanging by their middles, +foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns +twisted together by hand and each rubbed down with +tarred canvas or a handful of rope yarn. Beginning +with the fox nearest the left hand twist a turn in the +two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The +next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one +part is given to the opposite man. The other part is +twisted round the first which is given to the partner +and then again round its own part with the other foxes +until the required breadth is reached. Then as no +more foxes are added and the outside on the right is +brought over from time to time, a selvage is formed as +on the left side. There is a little difficulty in starting +but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each +fox from the right passes over the next one to it on +the left and is pushed back. The one that has been +passed over being taken up first over the next and +pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed +tight as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a><a id="Page_136"></a>136</span>selvage is made by straining another piece of cord +along the bottom securing both ends. As each fox +comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox +is laid at the back of it and so on alternately.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_136"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_136.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>Sword Matting</b> is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two +iron bars are slung in a horizontal position at the required +distance apart for warping the mat off. Hitch +one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar +at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. +The other end is then rove through the first hole in +the loom over and under the other bar back through +the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span>until as many parts as are required for the breadth +needed have been laid out. The last end is rove +through a slit and secured to the bar at the end the +mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom +up, middle the fittings and lay it between the upper +and lower parts. Then lower the loom and the parts +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span>that were lowest will rise in the slits and become the +uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_137"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_137.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SWORD MATTING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called +a sword, is then inserted between the alternate parts +of the warp and the crossing is driven close to the head +against the bar over which the warp for weaving the +mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure +the crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. +Haul it taut, take out the sword, lift up the loom and +continue to pass the filling. Half knot it with two +turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span>usually made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate +holes and slits in it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_138"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_138.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SPLICING A SWORD MAT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>To Splice a Sword Mat</b> unlay 6 or 7 inches of the +mat, open the ends out, marry them together laying +one up and one down flat along the mat. Withdraw +the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles +of the other mat through the holes they will come out +of. All ends will then disappear from that side and +there will be four rows of ends on the other. Turn +the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side +which have been married together, withdraw the ends +belonging to one mat and introduce the corresponding +ends of the other mat through the holes. Perform +this operation on each mat and on each side there will +be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on +each side laying one up and one down and go on +splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two or three +rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all +out on the same side and finish off as with selvaging.</p> + +<p>A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of +sword mats together. Take a filling of roping twine, +middle it and reeve each end through two bights in +each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at +each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back +through the same bights as the upper end which will +bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw the mats +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span>together and reeve both ends through two turns in +each mat again, passing each other through the same +hole opposite ways. Keep on doing this like stitching +the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for calling it a +cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch +through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and +cut off the ends.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_140"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_140.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A THRUM MAT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Thrum Mat</b> is made of canvas and short yarns +of equal length. These yarns are rove through holes +stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the yarns being on +the same side.</p> + +<p><b>A Common Sennit</b> is made by taking three or four +nettles according to the need required. Middle them +over a belaying pin and plait three or four together the +length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both +parts together to form an eye and plait them by bringing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span>the outside nettles on each side alternately over +to the middle. The outside one is laid with the right +hand and the remainder held firmly with the left hand. +Work the whole together adding a nettle when necessary. +After the eye is properly formed drop a yarn +and continue to the end with an odd number. When +it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a nettle at +regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving +its bight down and plait the other ends through this +bight until they are all worked through it. Then +haul on the end till the bight is taut. To secure all +parts cut off the ends and whip it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_141"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_141.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +<table class="autotable4"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +SQUARE SENNIT +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ROUND FENDER +</td> +</tr> +</table> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Square Sennit</b> is made somewhat in the same +manner as the round sennit but without a heart. Nettles +are used in the same ratio increasing by fours. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends divide +the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the uppermost +left-handed nettle round underneath all and up +inside two and over two of the right-handed ones. +Cross over the latter ones to the left and make four +on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the +right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two +and over two of the left-handed ones, still keeping +four on a side, because the nettle taken up always +comes round to its own side again. To proceed take +the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish +off as the round sennit is finished.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe12" id="i_142"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_142.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A FENDER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><b>A Fender</b> is used to protect the sides of a boat. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span>Sometimes it is made of wood but more often is of +canvas stuffed with oakum and painted.</p> + +<p>To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope +double the length of the fender. Unlay it, open the +strands and comb them until all the yarns lie straight. +Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling it +down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small +cords, such as log-line, is then spliced into the eye.</p> + +<p><b>A Round or Pudding Fender</b> is made of a center or +heart of rope yarn worked over a grafted with short +pieces of rope yarn nettles. The nettles are first cut +to the proper length and the middle part slightly +twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thimble +and a seizing put on. The heart or pudding may +be of any old stuff such as old strands, spunyarn, etc. +This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly +over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned +back over the eye and the other left lying down the +heart. Pass a turn or two of twine or marline called +the warp or filling round the fender where the nettles +separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must +now be brought down and those that are down turned +over the eye. The warp is now passed again and +hitched as before. This must be repeated until the +whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as +shown in the diagram. The ends of the nettles are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span>brought round last turn of the warp and interlaced in +the grafting.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_144"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_144.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIMPLE WEAVING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the diagram +by which mats may easily be made. Take two +pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive them into +the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm.</p> + +<p>These should stand about a foot out of the ground. +Then take a stick or a piece of wood and lash it across +the upright stakes. Next drive a row of pegs into the +ground. These pegs should be at equal distances +apart, not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the +lashed stick. Two sets of strings are then tied to the +cross stick. The ends of one set are fastened to the +sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a +dozen strings, then the odd numbered should be +fastened to the sticks and the even numbered to the +staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, +placing a handful of straw or rushes between the +strings at each movement and making them lie close, +a good mat is made. These mats may be joined together +with the cobbler’s stitch or by tying the string +ends together.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_145"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_145.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + MALAY HITCH + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The <b>Malay Hitch</b> is a name given by Captain Galton, +a noted traveler, to a method for fastening boards +or planks together to make a shelter. The cord is +twisted once and then as each board is inserted this +twist holds them sufficiently tight for temporary +purposes.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="HAMMOCK_MAKING"> + HAMMOCK MAKING + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>At the mention of a hammock one’s mind naturally +reverts to the sailor and at the same time thinks of +the pleasure a good hammock will afford under some +shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock making +is quite easy and the tools necessary are simple. +First, a netting needle is required. There are two +styles of these needles, which are shown in the diagram. +In the top one the cord is brought round the +end at <b>A</b>, up one side, round the pin at <b>B</b> and back +the same side, the process being repeated on the other +side of the needle. This needle is made of hardwood +such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by ¾ inch wide.</p> + +<p>The needle shown in the middle diagram has the +cord wound round it as in an ordinary shuttle.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_146"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_146.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span></p> + +<p>The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also +shows a cross section, is made of hardwood or bone +and is about 5 inches long and oval in shape.</p> + +<p>At one end of the string to be used for the net, +tie a loop and place the knot on a nail fixed in some +convenient position. Place the mesh stick under the +loop as shown by <b>A</b> in the diagram, put the cord +under it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull +the cord taut.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_147"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_147.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> +LOOP IN MESHING <span style="padding-left:6em;">FIRST STAGE OF MESHING</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord +beyond the loop, as shown in the next diagram, and +with a turn of the wrist of the right hand throw the +cord to the position shown at <b>B</b>, then pass the needle +under the loop <b>C</b>, through the bight <b>B</b> and down as +at <b>D</b> and draw the knot tight.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_148"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_148.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SECOND STAGE IN MESHING + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>When this has been done the loop will assume the +shape seen in the diagram illustrating the third meshing +stage. The cord must be held firmly with the +thumb at <b>A</b> when pulling up the knots, as the uniformity +of the meshes depends on this.</p> + +<p>To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and +placed under <b>A</b>, in the third meshing diagram. The +needle is then passed under the stick as before, brought +through the loop <b>B</b> and as before to form another +mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span>say forty-five or fifty, sufficient for the width of the +hammock. The loop <b>A</b> originally tied is then unfastened +and it will be found that the meshes are all of +the same size.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe18" id="i_149"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_149.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THIRD MESHING STAGE <span style="padding-left:4em;">CHAIN OF MESHES</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The chain is then opened out at right angles to +the line in which it was made, shown in the next diagram, +and working across is begun by making a mesh +at <b>A</b>, then at <b>B</b>, <b>C</b>, and so on, until the length of the +first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is +turned over and another row of meshes worked in the +same manner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span></p> + +<p>To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops, +<b>D</b>, <b>E</b>, <b>F</b> and <b>G</b>, separately on the hook or nail as the +meshes under them are made. After a little practice a +cord may be reeved through the top line of meshes, +tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then +over the foot as the work progresses.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="i_150"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i_150.png" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING <span style="padding-left:6em;">HAMMOCK CLEW</span> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>An ash stick may be used at each end to which the +end meshes are looped and tied, and a piece of codline +may be passed through the side meshes on each side +and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end +a stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span>triangle for hanging the hammock. Another plan is +to tie a number of cords together by doubling them +in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free +ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The +best plan is to reeve a cord about the size of a little +finger through the end meshes and splice it into the +form of a grommet. A thimble, <b>A</b>, is fixed in the end +to which the supporting cords are attached and the +cords which are reeved through the side meshes are +spliced into the eye <b>B</b> at <b>C</b>. When these clews are +used the net must be made longer than for sticks.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="STRENGTH_OF_ROPE_ETC"> + STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC. + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Rope is measured by its circumference. A four-stranded +rope is about one-fifth weaker than a three-stranded +one.</p> + +<p>Generally blocks should be three times the size of the +rope which it is intended to reeve in them.</p> + +<p>The hauling part bears twice the strain of the standing +part of a fall, the pin of a block is often more worn +on one of its sides than on the other and should be turned +frequently.</p> + +<p>Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully examined +at short intervals.</p> + + +<h3 id="BREAKING_STRAINS_ETC"> + BREAKING STRAINS, ETC. +</h3> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Hawser-Laid Rope<br> +Rule</span></p> + +<p>Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the +breaking strain; in tons. Divide by 4 for the proof +strain; divide by 6 for the working strain.</p> + + +<p class="center"> + <span class="smcap">Worked Example</span> +</p> + +<p>A rope 4 inches in circumference; required the breaking +strain.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> + +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +inches in circumference. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +× +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +÷ +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +3) 16 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +<i>Ans.</i> +</td> +<td class="tdr bbd"> +5.3 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +tons = breaking strain. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> + +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +inches in circumference. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +× +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +÷ +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +4) 16 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +<i>Ans.</i> +</td> +<td class="tdr bbd"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +tons = proof strain. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> + +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +inches in circumference. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +× +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +÷ +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +6) 16 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +<i>Ans.</i> +</td> +<td class="tdr bbd"> +2.7 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +tons = working strain. +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<p>To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a +tackle.</p> + +<p>Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending +by the number of parts at the movable block and subtract +¼ of this for resistance.</p> + +<p>To determine the relative strength of chain and rope.</p> + +<p>Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1, +using the diameter of the chain and the circumference +of the rope; ½-inch chain may replace 5-inch rope.</p> + +<p>Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used +as a substitute for hempen rope.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span></p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Hemp Rope<br> +Inches +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +Wire Rope<br> +Inches +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +3 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +1½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +1¾ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +5 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +2 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +6 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +2½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +7 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +3 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +8 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +3½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +9 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +4 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +10 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +4½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr" style="padding-right:2em;"> +11 +</td> +<td class="tdl" style="padding-left:2em;"> +5 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<h3 id="STEEL_WIRE_ROPES"> + STEEL WIRE ROPES +</h3> + +<p>1. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire +making are:</p> + +<p><b>Breaking Strain p.s.i.</b>—Extra plough steel, 110 to +120 tons. Mild plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best +patent steel, 80 to 85 tons. Bessemer steel, 40 to 45 +tons.</p> + +<p>2. <b>Specifications.</b>—Specification should state: (1) +Length of rope. (2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4) +Load, <i>exclusive of rope</i>. (5) If for wet workings. (6) +Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves.</p> + +<p>3. <b>Working Load.</b>—The maximum working load at +average speed, including weight of rope, should not exceed +a tenth of the breaking strain as tabulated below.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span></p> + +<p>4. <b>Sheaves and Barrels.</b>—Great care should be taken +that wire ropes are not worked round drums or over +pulleys of insufficient circumference, that they do not +strike against any hard substance while in motion. They +should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope +in diameter.</p> + +<p>5. <b>Uncoiling.</b>—Much care should be taken in uncoiling +wire ropes, to prevent kinking. The coil should +not be laid stationary, but should be placed on a turntable +or reel and unwound from the outer end.</p> + +<p>6. <b>Grease.</b>—To prevent corrosion, all working ropes +should receive a regular dressing of wire rope grease +thoroughly laid on.</p> + +<p>7. <b>Starting.</b>—The greatest strain on a rope being at +the moment of starting, every care should be taken to +insure perfect steadiness of movement, as jerking is +ruinous to ropes.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span></p> + + +<p class="center"><strong>Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round +Wire Ropes.</strong></p> + +<div class="shrink"> +<table class="autotable"> +<tr> +<th colspan="2" rowspan="3"> +Diam.<br> +Inches. +</th> +<th colspan="2" rowspan="3"> +Circumf.<br> +Inches. +</th> +<th colspan="2" rowspan="3"> +Lbs. +per<br> +Fathom. +</th> +<th colspan="4"> +Plough Steel +</th> +<th colspan="2" rowspan="2"> +Best +Patent<br>Steel. +</th> +<th colspan="2" rowspan="2"> +Best +Bessemer<br> Steel. +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<th colspan="2"> +Extra. +</th> +<th colspan="2"> +Mild. +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<th colspan="2"> +Tons. +</th> +<th colspan="2"> +Tons. +</th> +<th colspan="2"> +Tons. +</th> +<th colspan="2"> +Tons. +</th> +</tr> + + +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +1 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +2 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¼ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +8 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +7 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +6 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¼ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +3 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¼ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +1 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¾ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +3 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +11 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +10 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +8 +</td> 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+ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +50 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +25 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +20 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +77 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +70 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +56 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +28 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> +1 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +4 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¾ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +22 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +86 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +76 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +63 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +31 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +5 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +25 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +95 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +85 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +70 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +34 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +5 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¼ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +27 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +105 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +96 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +77 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +38 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> +1 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¾ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +5 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +30 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +115 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +106 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +84 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +42 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +5 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¾ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +33 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +126 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +114 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +92 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +46 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> + +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +6 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +36 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +138 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +125 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +100 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +50 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdrn"> +2 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +6 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> +¼ +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +39 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +155 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +133 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +120 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +<td class="tdrn"> +60 +</td> +<td class="tdln"> + +</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX"> + INDEX + </h2> +</div> + + +<ul class="index"> + <li class="ifrst">Artificial Eye, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Back-Handed Sailor’s Knot, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bale Slings, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Belaying Pin Splice, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bend Hawsers, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bend Shortening, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bending Sheet to Clew of Sail, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Blackwall Hitch, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Boat Knot, Simple, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Boat Knot with Thole Pin, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Boltrope, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bow Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bow Knot, Single, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bow Shortening, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bowline Bend, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bowline Knot, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bowline Knot, Standing, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bowline on a Bight, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Bronze Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Builders’ Knot, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Builders’ Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Buntline Hitch, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Burton, Spanish, Double, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Burton, Spanish, Single, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Butt Slings, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Cable-Laid Rope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Can Hooks, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Capstan Knot, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Carrick Bend, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Carrick Bend, Double, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Catspaw, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Fastening, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Fastening to Sheaves, Double, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Hitch, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Knot, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Chain Splice, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Clinch, Outside, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Clinch, Running or Inside, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Clinch, Simple, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Clove Hitch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Coir Rope, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crabber’s Eye Knot, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cringle on a Crown, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cringles, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crossed and Square Fastening, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crossed Running Knot, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cross Lashing, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cross Netting, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crowning, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Crown Knot, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Cut Splice, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Dead-eye Lashing, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Diamond Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Diamond Knot, Single, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Dog Shank, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Double Blackwall Hitch, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Double Builders’ Knot, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Double Knot, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span>Double Wall Knot, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Durable Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Englishman’s Knot, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Eye Splice, Rope, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Eye Splice, Wire Rope, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">False Knot, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fender, Round or Pudding, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fender, Soft, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fibres, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Figure of 8 Knot, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fisherman’s Bend, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Fisherman’s Knot, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Five-Fold Knot, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Flemish Eye, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Flemish Knot, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Galvanized Iron Wire, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Granny, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Grommet, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Gunner’s Knot, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Half Hitch, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Half Hitch and Seizing Bend, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hammock Clew, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hammock Lashings, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hawser Bend, Simple, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hawser Rope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hawsers, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Hemp Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Junk, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Jury Knot, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Killick Hitch, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Knot Shortening, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Lanyards, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark Boat Knot, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Head, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Head, Double, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Head, Stoppered, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Head, Treble, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lark’s Nest, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lengthening the Rope of a Sail, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Long Splice, Rope, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Long Splice, Wire, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loop Fastening to Sheaves, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loop Knot, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loop Knot for Large Cordage, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Loop or Bend Shortening, Simple, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Lubber’s Knot, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Magnus Hitch, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Malay Hitch, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Manila Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Marling Hitch, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Marlinespike, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Marlinespike Hitch, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Manrope Knot, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Matthew Walker Knot, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Matthew Walker, Double, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Meshing Loop, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Metallic Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Midshipman’s Hitch, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Mousing a Hook, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Necklace Tie, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nettle Stuff, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Netting Needles, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Nippering or Packing, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Oakum, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Open-Hand Knot, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Ordinary Knot or Tie, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span>Overhand Loop, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Packing Knot, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Parbuckle, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Parcelling, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pass a Life Line, To, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pass a Stropper, To, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Paunch Mat, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pitcher Knot, Single, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pitcher Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Point a Rope End, To, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Pricker, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Purchases—</li> + <li class="isub1">Burton, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Double Luff Tackle, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Four-fold, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Gun Tackle, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Handy Billy, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Luff Tackle, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Runner, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Runner and Tackle, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Three-fold, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Up and Down Tackle, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Watch Tackle, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Whip, Double, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + <li class="isub1">Whip, Single, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Put a Strop on a Spar, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Racking Seizing, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Reef Knot, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Roband Hitch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rolling Hitch, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rope, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rope Yarn Knot, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Rose Lashing, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Round Fender, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Bowline, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot Checked, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot Crossed, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot in Eye of a Rope, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot, Simple, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Knot with Check Knot, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Running Noose, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Sailors’ Knot Fastening, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Secure Lead Line to Lead, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Secure a Rope Round a Belaying Pin, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Secure a Rope Around a Cleat, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Selvagees, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sennit, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sennit, Crown, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sennit, Square, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Serving, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shell Lashing, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sheep Shank or Dog Shank, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sheet Bend, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shortening Tie, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Short Splice, Rope, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Short Splice, Wire, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shroud-Laid Rope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Shroud Knot, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simple Boat Knot, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simple Hitch, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simple Knot, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simple Running Knot, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Simple Stoppered Loop, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Single Plait or Chain Knot, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Six-Fold Knot, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sling a Cask on End, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span>Slip Clinches or Running Knots Seized, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Slip Knot, Stoppered, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Slip Knot Secured by Slip Clinch, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Slippery Hitch, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Slippery Ring Knot, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Snaking and Seizing, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spanish Burton, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spanish Burton, Double, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spanish Windlass, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spritsail Sheet Knot, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Spun Yarn, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Square Fastening, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Stationer’s Knot, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Steel Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Stopper Knot, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Strands, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Stun’sail Halyard Bend, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sword Mat Splicing, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Sword Matting, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Tail Jigger, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tent Pole Knot, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Throat Seizing, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Thrum Mat, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Timber Hitch, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Timber Hitch for Towing Spars, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Toggles, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Tomfool Knot, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Topsail Halyard Bend, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Treble Knot, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Turk’s Head Knot, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Twine, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Twist Knot, Single, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Twist Knot, Double, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Twisted Rope Fastening, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Underhand Loop, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Useful Band, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Wall Knot, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Waterman’s Knot, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Weaver’s Knot or Tie, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Weaving, Simple, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whip a Rope, To, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whipping, American, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whipping, To Finish, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whipping, Palm and Needle, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Whipping, West Country, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Hawsers, Steel, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Rope, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Rope Eye Splice, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Rope into Endless Band, To Splice, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Rope Long Splice, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Rope Splicing, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Wire Splice, Short, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> + + <li class="indx">Worming, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> + + + <li class="ifrst">Yarn, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +</ul> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<p class="center"> Transcriber’s Notes.</p> + +<p> +Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised. +</p> + +<p> +To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between paragraphs. +Where necessary, references to illustrations in the text +have been modified to reflect the change in position. +</p> + + +<p>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p> +</div> + + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |