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authorwww-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>2026-04-07 08:10:46 -0700
committerwww-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>2026-04-07 08:10:46 -0700
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78384 ***</div>
+<div class="margins">
+<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
+available by clicking on them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="map1">
+<p class="cpm1">A MAP<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+OF<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="xlarge">AFRICA</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+North of the parallel of 7° South Latitude;<br class=
+"x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>Shewing the course & direction of the principal</em><br class=
+"x-ebookmaker-drop">
+Rivers & Mountains,<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>particularly of the</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+NIGER & of the GIR<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>WITH THEIR TRIBUTARY STREAMS,</em><br class=
+"x-ebookmaker-drop">
+from the best Authorities.</p>
+
+<p class="cpm2"><span class="sc">Drawn by James McQueen</span><br>
+Glasgow 6<sup>th</sup>. June 1820.</p>
+
+<p class="cpm3"><em>Engraved by W. H. Lizars Edinburgh.</em>
+</p>
+<a href="images/map1_large.jpg"><img src='images/map1.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Engraved by W. H. Lizars</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="ipubc"><em>Edinburgh, Published by Will<sup>m</sup>.
+Blackwood 1821.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<h1><span class="small">A</span><br>
+GEOGRAPHICAL AND COMMERCIAL<br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced02">VIEW</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+<span class="xlarge">NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA:</span><br>
+<span class="small">CONTAINING A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT<br>
+OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="gothic">Course and Termination</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="less">GREAT RIVER NIGER IN THE ATLANTIC
+OCEAN.</span></h1>
+
+<hr class="decor width6">
+
+<p class="center large spaced17 word-spaced03">BY <span class=
+"letter-spaced01">JAMES</span> M‘<span class=
+"letter-spaced01">QUEE</span>N.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width6">
+
+<p class="publisher">EDINBURGH:<br>
+<span class="med letter-spaced">PRINTED FOR WILLIAM BLACKWOOD,
+EDINBURGH;<br>
+T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND, LONDON; AND<br>
+W. TURNBULL, GLASGOW.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="decor width2">
+
+<p class="center less">1821.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<div class="divprinter">
+<hr class="decor width12">
+
+<p>Printed by Balfour and Clarke,<br>
+Edinburgh, 1821.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced2 space-above"><span class=
+"small">TO</span><br>
+<span class="med letter-spaced01">HIS GRACE</span><br>
+<span class="large">THE DUKE OF MONTROSE,</span><br>
+<span class="letter-spaced01">THIS WORK</span><br>
+<span class="small">IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,<br>
+BY<br>
+HIS OBLIGED, MOST OBEDIENT, AND<br>
+HUMBLE SERVANT,</span><br>
+<span class="letter-spaced01">JAMES</span> M‘<span class=
+"letter-spaced01">QUEE</span>N.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_v">[v]</span><a id="pref"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width4">
+
+<p class="dcap1">T<span class="sc">he</span> subsequent sheets
+regarding the Geography and Commerce of Northern Central Africa,
+are with much deference submitted to the public. They are the
+results of much labour, long research, and numerous inquiries,
+carried on with a view to elucidate these important subjects.</p>
+
+<p>When Mr. Park returned from his first journey, I was resident in
+the Island of Grenada (West Indies). There I had Mandingo Negroes
+under my charge, who were well acquainted with the Joliba. They
+knew the name perfectly from hearing me pronounce it in reading Mr.
+Park’s book. I also knew a Houssa Negro, who said he rowed Mr. Park
+across the Niger. These things naturally attracted my attention;
+and being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[vi]</span> fond of
+geographical subjects, I endeavoured to collect all the accounts
+which I could concerning the features of the country on the Upper
+Niger, as well from Negroes as from gentlemen of my acquaintance,
+who had obtained their information from similar sources. Though it
+was scarcely possible to reduce these, standing by themselves, into
+regular order, yet, connected with other accounts, they became
+satisfactory, and formed the commencement of my labours and
+collections on this subject. The narratives of every one were
+filled with the accounts of high mountains, great rivers, populous
+countries, and large towns. By these means, my particular attention
+was fixed upon this interesting subject, and my researches have
+been pursued day succeeding day, ever since the period above
+mentioned. Numerous authorities regarding this interesting portion
+of Africa have been examined with much care, and the most striking
+facts elicited from their pages. This investigation in the
+geographical department, has led to the conclusion which is now
+submitted to the world. It is for the public to judge how far the
+work has been judiciously and accurately performed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[vii]</span>It is nearly
+five years, since, in a small treatise, I pointed out that, in the
+Bights of Benin and Biafra, the Niger certainly entered the ocean.
+Various travellers, and researches made since that period, have
+enabled me to delineate with greater accuracy the course of this
+important river, and its numerous tributary streams through the
+interior of the country. Perfect accuracy on these subjects is at
+present unattainable, nor is it here pretended to. The delineation
+of the general features of the country was all I had in view, and
+this I flatter myself has been done with sufficient accuracy to
+establish all the leading points which were contemplated.</p>
+
+<p>The Public will no doubt feel surprised when, considering the
+number and magnitude of the rivers in the Bights of Benin and
+Biafra, that no attempt has ever been made to penetrate by means of
+the chief and most powerful of these streams into the interior of
+the country. Yet such is the fact. The rivers of interior Africa
+were believed to be like no other rivers. By one they were stated
+to run, first increasing, and then diminishing, till the current
+disappeared altogether. By another,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_viii">[viii]</span> that, flowing in opposite directions,
+they at last met and stood still; and by a third, that one of the
+greatest rivers in the world, with all its tributary streams, was
+swallowed up in a lake, or absorbed by sands. Such were the
+theories formed; and no farther inquiry was considered necessary.
+Thus Central Africa has for ages been buried from the eyes of the
+civilized world, and in a similar manner, unworthy and erroneous
+theories are at work to mislead the public, and shut up the vast
+continent of New Holland. The mighty rivers lately discovered in
+that Continent are also represented as terminating in a lake or
+swamps, chiefly because it has been said that the Niger does so
+terminate. Near 600 miles of the coast of New Holland, on the
+south-west side, remain to be explored. In the north-east corner of
+the Great Bay, which circumscribes the south-west part of that
+continent, no doubt is the outlet of all the waters of that vast
+country, which, flowing from every point of the compass, converge
+towards that quarter, and after forming a lake or lakes, in all
+probability issue therefrom, and pour a mighty tribute into the
+ocean. Whoever casts his eye upon the map of<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_ix">[ix]</span> the world, must be struck with the
+faithful resemblance which the Great Bay, and the south-west coast
+of New Holland, bear to the Gulph of Guinea and the south-west
+coast of Africa. To the same point in both Continents all the
+rivers converge. Another Niger and another Gir will perhaps ere
+long be found out, traversing the interior of New Holland, and
+therefore it is of the utmost consequence that Great Britain should
+get possession of the country round the mouths of these streams,
+which would thus give her the complete command of all that immense
+country.</p>
+
+<p>In the way to open up and establish a commercial intercourse
+with Africa, there will no doubt be a diversity of opinions. On
+such an important subject, involving so many interests, and such
+mighty consequences, I would wish to be understood as offering my
+opinion with great deference. Nevertheless, from what I have
+learned of Africa, and from what I know of the Negro character, I
+am convinced that the plan proposed and recommended in this work,
+or one formed upon a similar basis, is that which will soonest
+render the trade with Africa the most beneficial, either to Africa
+or to Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span>In recommending the
+destruction of the system of slavery in Africa, I am not so
+sanguine or inconsiderate as to imagine, or to expect, that this
+can or ought to be accomplished in a moment. It can only be
+effected in a gradual manner; and abolition can only be beneficial
+by being accomplished in this way. It must be the work of much
+time. There is also too much reason to fear, that Africa can only
+rise to freedom and civilization through the medium of slavery in
+the first instance. The great error committed by her Princes, and
+all Europeans who have hitherto held communication with Africa, is,
+that they withdraw the labours of Africa to cultivate other
+quarters of the world, in place of fixing its exertions to the soil
+which gives it birth. It is this system which has hitherto retarded
+the civilization of Central Africa. Let those then, who are slaves
+in Africa, or who may in future become so by the regulations of the
+native powers, be employed to cultivate Africa, and the population
+of that Continent will, with its improvement, gradually rise to
+freedom, knowledge and civilization. There is no other safe way to
+accomplish the object.</p>
+
+<p>There is one article of commerce which is particularly abundant
+in the parts of Africa which<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xi">[xi]</span> have been considered, namely, rice, the
+particular value of which I have omitted to mention. This article
+may be purchased in the countries adjoining the Niger, at the low
+value of a halfpenny to three farthings per lb. or about 90s. per
+cwt. Here it costs four times the sum, and in the West Indies a
+still greater price. It is needless to point out the advantages
+which would result from prosecuting this branch of commerce.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot help thinking, that the accounts which we have heard of
+nations in the interior of Africa devouring their prisoners is
+incorrect, and arises from a want of knowledge of their customs and
+language. It is well known that the Negroes believe in the power of
+witchcraft to such a degree as to sink under the idea, pine away,
+and die. I omit numerous instances in the West Indies where the
+individual inflicting, and the individual suffering, were each
+equally so convinced of the fatal power, as neither reasoning,
+threats, nor punishment, could remove the impression. Thus
+situated, the infatuated sufferer stated that his enemy was
+devouring him. From Beaver’s African Memoranda, we learn that this
+practice is quite common on<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xii">[xii]</span> the western coast of Africa, and is known
+by the common appellation, that such and such a person “<em>eats
+another</em>,” or is “<em>eaten by another</em>.” From this may
+arise the reports of there being nations in the interior, and
+elsewhere, who eat each other and their prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>After these sheets were nearly all printed off, the kindness and
+attention of Professor Jameson of the University of Edinburgh, put
+into my hands the new work from the pen of Mr. Bowditch, regarding
+the interior of Africa. From this, the important fact is obtained,
+that the river which flows from the east is navigable, and
+navigated, at any rate, to Lake Caudee, or Fittre, if not further;
+for instead of days journeys, as related in his former work, we
+find that it <em>is sixty-five days navigation</em> from the island
+of Gangi, near Yaoora, to the borders of Fittre Lake. Park
+navigated the Niger to Boussa, in the immediate neighbourhood of
+Gangi; and we have it confirmed by the previous authority, that the
+eastern river is navigable also. This confirms what both Edrisi and
+Leo Africanus related concerning it. Leo Africanus also clearly
+points out that there were several rivers besides<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</span> the Niger, and that all the
+others emptied themselves into it. The Negro kingdoms which he
+enumerated and visited, were, as he distinctly states, situated
+either upon “<em>the Niger, or other rivers which flow into
+it</em>.” That it did not run to the Egyptian Nile, but from it,
+and that it was not lost in a lake, but terminated in the ocean,
+Gregory of Abyssinia states most pointedly. Flowing west from the
+Egyptian Nile, he says, “Descendit enim versus regionem Elwah, et
+sic illabitur in <em>Mare Magnum</em>, i.e. Oceanum
+Occidentalem.”</p>
+
+<p>Also, from the work just quoted, it would appear that the river
+from the east joins the Niger about and below Yaoora. In the
+itinerary of Brahima, the route from Yahndi and Gamba, to the
+Niger, is given. The last place on that route is Schal. “Here,”
+says Brahima, “is the river which is named Coudha, <em>on the
+extremity of which is the great kingdom of Your,” (Yaoora.)</em> If
+this relation is correct, then it would appear that the Great
+Eastern River is that which is called Coudha, Kaoda, or Quolla, and
+that it flows into the Niger to the south of Yaoora, forming the
+boundary of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</span> this
+state on that quarter. It is by no means improbable that this is
+really the case. With one remark I shall conclude my observations
+on these subjects. It appears, from all geographical authorities in
+early times, that nearly all the great rivers in the different
+continents were uniformly laid down as flowing from the same
+source, or as being joined together in some part of their course.
+This is the case with the great rivers in the Eastern World, in
+Africa, and lastly in America, where the Rio de La Plata and the
+Great Maranon are represented as uniting, and then separating from
+each other, and then flowing in nearly opposite directions.
+Perpetuating such erroneous ideas, has led into the confusion which
+has long reigned in the geography of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>In speaking of the magnitude of African cities and states, it
+must always be borne in mind that these are considered chiefly
+according to the accounts derived from the authority of Arab, Moor,
+and Negro travellers, whose comparisons, again, are drawn from what
+they saw or heard of in Africa. These accounts must not be taken as
+applied to, or compared with, European Kingdoms and
+States.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span> Several
+cities in Africa, however, are certainly populous, and the number
+of this description is undoubtedly also very considerable.</p>
+
+<p>In the numerous authorities to which I have referred, and which
+I have quoted, I have uniformly given their exact words, that my
+readers may be enabled to judge for themselves concerning the truth
+of what I advance. In the style and composition of the work, I have
+to claim the indulgence of the public. Avocations of a different
+kind necessarily engage my time; and my distance from Edinburgh,
+where the work was printed, has, in a few instances, led into
+errors, which, however, are either very obvious, or not very
+material.</p>
+
+<p>The interest which is now excited about every thing connected
+with Africa, must soon lead to measures by some European power,
+such as will clearly and accurately develope every part of the
+interior of that long-neglected and very remarkable country. I hope
+that this honour, and the immense advantages to be derived
+therefrom, both political and commercial, are reserved for Great
+Britain.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</span>It is only
+necessary further to add, that the substance of the following work,
+in what regards both the geography and the trade, were embodied
+into separate memorials, and with a map of Northern Africa, (which
+has been reduced and engraved for this work) upon a large scale,
+submitted to his Majesty’s Government <em>in the latter end of June
+last year</em>. Especially these were laid before the noble Lords
+at the Head of the Admiralty and the Colonial Department, the Right
+Honourable the President and Vice-President of the Board of Trade,
+and other distinguished members of the Executive Government. To his
+Grace the Duke of Montrose I feel particularly indebted for the
+interest he took in the furtherance of a plan which, if prosecuted,
+would be attended with incalculable advantages to the West of
+Scotland, and to Glasgow in particular.</p>
+
+<p class="pad3 less space-above1"><span class="sc">Glasgow</span>,
+<em>March</em> 22, 1821.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xvii">[xvii]</span>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width4">
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect">GEOGRAPHY OF NORTHERN
+AFRICA.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect05top"><a href="#c1">CHAP.
+I.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">Page</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ancient Geography of Central Africa —
+General Observations — Accounts of the Interior by Ptolemy, Edrisi,
+Ibn-al-Vardi, Scheabeddin, Mackrisi, Batouta, Abulfeda, Ebn Haukal,
+Leo Africanus — Termination of the Niger, &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c2">CHAP. II.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Joliba, two branches, source western,
+ditto eastern — River Zamma; course till junction — Snowy mountains
+— Balia — Lake Clonia — River Guinola — Kaniaba — Bammakoo —
+Magnitude of Niger — Rapids — Marraboo — Yamina — Sego — Jennë — Ba
+Nimma — Ba Maniana — Lake Dibbie — River Gozen Zair — High
+Mountains — Walet — Course of Niger, north-east — Ba Moriaca —
+Jinbala — Rakbara — Kabra — Timbuctoo — Bahar-el-Ahmar — Course of
+ditto — Houssa — Magnitude of Niger at Timbuctoo — Sidi Hamed —
+Course of river south-east — Mountains — Kaffo — Rocks — River
+bursts through a chain of mountains — Exceeding high ridge to
+south-west — Cabi, a Ferry — Yaoora — Great River from east may
+join here — Boussa — Park’s death — Cause of it — Wauwa — Gange —
+Nyffe — Wassanah — Magnitude of Wassanah — Magnitude of Niger or
+Zadi — Course to “Great Water” — Junction with the Sea, and where —
+General Observations</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">59</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c3">CHAP. III.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Eastern rivers — Misselad or Gir, source
+and course — Dar Saley — Wara — Other rivers — Gir turns west —
+Lake Fittre — Magnitude of River; junction with the Shary —
+Bahr-el-Feydh — Bahr Djad — Course of Gir west — Gambarou — Birney
+— Bornou — River Tzad — Face of the country — Cano or Ghana —
+Kashna — Gulbe, supposed course of ditto — Position of Kashna —
+Junction of eastern and western rivers — Vancara or Owencara; what
+it is — Bito — Temian — Cannibals — Junction of Gir and Bahr Kulla,
+source and course of ditto — Mount Thala — Miri — Junchor and Bahr
+Salamat Rivers — Lake Haimat — Island at the junction of Gir and
+Niger — Lybia Palus — Lake of Jackson, or sea of<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</span> Sudan; what that is —
+Robertson — River Loro — Fillanee — Water communication between the
+sea-coast and north-east parts of Africa — Course of the Niger to
+the sea in the Bights of Benin and Biafra — Boundary of Benin —
+Bahr Kulha; what it is</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">93</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c4">CHAP. IV.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Bights of Benin and Biafra — Rio de
+Formosa — Delta of Benin — Innumerable Rivers — Rio Forcados —
+Gatto Creek — Cape Formosa — Rivers East — New Calabar and Bonny
+River; their great magnitude — Old Calabar and Cross Rivers — Rio
+Elrei — Salt Ground — Great Trade in Salt — Face of the Country in
+the Delta — Trade to these Places — Inundation of the Rivers — Time
+of ditto — Shews they are different from either the Congo or the
+Egyptian Nile — Currents in the Sea near the Coast — Number and
+Magnitude of the Rivers in the Delta — Breadth — Depth — Trade —
+Natives into the Interior — A Race of People almost White — Leucæ
+Ethiopians of Ptolemy — General Observations on the N.E. and North
+parts of Central Africa — Accounts of Travellers — Kong — What it
+means — Great Magnitude of the Niger, and his Tributary Streams —
+Length of Course — Compared to Magnitude of Bahr-el-Abiad at
+Shilluk — Cannot be the same Stream — No Connection with that
+River</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">128</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><a href="#c5">CHAP. V.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Country south of the Elrei — High land of
+Cameroons — An extinct Volcano — Chariot of the Gods — Old
+Cameroons — Jamoor and Malemba Rivers — Moöhnda, or Danger River —
+Gaboon River — Nazareth, Liverpool, Bristol, and Tawney Rivers —
+Congo River — Rivers West of the Rio de Formosa — Rio Lagos — Mory
+River — Country around it — Rio Volta — Boosempra, Ancobra, and
+Assinee Rivers — Mesurada River — Sierra Leone — Way to explore
+Africa — Distances of Places, how ascertained — How to command
+Africa — Fernando Po, a sure stronghold — Sierra Leone, a secondary
+place — A settlement inland of the greatest importance — Extent of
+country it would command — French settlement in Africa — Wish to
+extend their power in that quarter — Rivers, their great use in the
+Torrid Zone — East coast of Africa, important for Commerce — Rivers
+Zambezi and Zebee — Island of Socotora — Situation of Africa —
+Slavery — The Slave Trade — Extent thereof — Slavery and
+Superstition — Scourges of Africa — How to benefit Africa —
+Colonization — Advantage of Colonies — The chief strength of
+Britain — Eagerly coveted by France — Our efforts in Central Africa
+would civilize all Northern Africa — Must expect to meet
+difficulties — Perseverance will ensure success</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">156</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large sect"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xix">[xix]</span><a href="#c6">TRADE AND COMMERCE</a> OF
+NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Colonies necessary to Great Britain —
+France anxious to colonize Africa — New markets can alone relieve
+our trade — Old overstocked — Africa the best field — Superior
+productions — Country near the Niger — Powerful, populous,
+cultivated, and commercial states — Large cities — Numerous
+valuable productions — Africa long neglected — Formerly enriched
+other countries — Articles of export and import — Particular
+enumeration and value of those most in demand — Salt — Ostrich
+feathers — Spices — Precious stones — Gums — Drugs — Dye-stuffs —
+Gold dust — Ivory — Gunpowder, Fire-arms, &amp;c. — Value of
+articles — Great profits on trade — Immense advantages of a water
+conveyance — Hardships attending the trade at present — Value of
+articles at the Gold coast and the interior — Extent and value of
+the trade at present — Would supply our West India Colonies with
+provisions — Obtain plenty of fine cotton — Would open up a trade
+to the Cape of Good Hope and India — Abolition of the slave trade
+would relieve and cultivate Africa — If not checked, our West India
+colonies must be ruined — Infringe the rights of no civilized
+nation in colonizing Africa — Three modes of establishing the trade
+— A chartered company the best — Regulations under which to be
+formed — Government must countenance and support such an
+undertaking — Plans to be adopted and pursued — General reflections
+on the climate of Africa, and the importance of the contemplated
+undertaking</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">211</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="less"><a id="err"></a>ERRATA.</h2>
+
+<table class="tless">
+<tr>
+<td>Page</td>
+<td class="tdr">8.</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td>line from bottom,</td>
+<td class="tdc"><em>for</em>
+</td>
+<td>Girgires,</td>
+<td class="tdc"><em>read</em>
+</td>
+<td>Girgiris.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">27.</td>
+<td>10th</td>
+<td class="tdc">do.</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>itineries,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>itineraries</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">28.</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td>line from top,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>Canal</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>Canoe</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">33.</td>
+<td>2d</td>
+<td>line from bottom,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>Cetenum</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>Ceterum</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">57.</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td>line from top,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>comes</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>come</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">85.</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td>line from bottom,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td><em>Kabee</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td><em>Kabeer</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">105.</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td class="tdc">do.</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>bar</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>bark</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">123.</td>
+<td>15th</td>
+<td>line from top,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>West</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>East</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>3d</td>
+<td>line from bottom,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>occurrence of which,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>occurrence which</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">138.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>do.</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>turnings</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>burnings</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">177.</td>
+<td>2d</td>
+<td>line from top,</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>outlet</td>
+<td class="tdc">—</td>
+<td>outlets</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="center spaced2 pb"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_1">[1]</span><span class=
+"large letter-spaced">GEOGRAPHY</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+<span class="xlarge">NORTHERN AFRICA.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width4">
+
+<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c1"></a>CHAP. I.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Ancient Geography of Central Africa — General
+Observations — Accounts of the Interior by Ptolemy, Edrisi,
+Ebn-al-Fardi, Sheabiddin, Mackrisi, Batouta, Abulfeda, Ebn Haukal,
+Leo Africanus — Termination of the Niger, &amp;c.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">T<span class="sc">he</span> central parts of
+Africa, and, in a very particular manner, the interior parts of the
+northern division of that great continent, together with the course
+and termination of the great river Niger, are still in a great
+measure unknown. Become the eager object of European research,
+these cannot much longer remain hid. It is surprising they have
+remained undiscovered so long. To explore and determine accurately
+these important points, is the most interesting geographical
+problem that now remains to be solved.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>Unworthy and
+erroneous theories, and to which all information hitherto received
+has been forced to bend, have long led astray the public mind, and
+general exertions of Europe, from the true path by which the
+interior of Northern Africa can be explored, and the only way by
+which the course and termination of the Niger can be ascertained.
+The road, however, is easy, and quite accessible. Nature has formed
+it. The Niger, and his tributary streams, pursue their course
+through Central Africa. From the west, and from the east, they
+converge to one point. After uniting in one channel, the mighty
+current divides itself into several streams, which enter the
+Atlantic ocean by navigable estuaries in the Bights of Benin and
+Biafra.</p>
+
+<p>Allowing we had no positive information of the course and
+magnitude of the Niger lower down than Bammakoo, Sego, and Lake
+Dibbie, still the fact of there being such a river continuing its
+course eastward from the latter place, is sufficient to induce us
+to look for its exit on the sea coast. We are quite certain that it
+does not enter the sea to the north; and we may say we are equally
+sure that it does not finish its course in any sea to the east. To
+the south, therefore, we must turn our inquiries. In no part of
+Western or Southern Africa is there stronger grounds to look for
+this estuary, than in the coast below Benin. There the soil is all
+alluvial.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> For a great
+distance into the interior, stones larger than a man’s fist are
+unknown. The country is flat, and inundated during the swell of the
+rivers from the tropical rains. The land is daily gaining on the
+sea from the quantity of alluvial matter brought down from the
+interior. The whole country and coast, for a great extent, is
+intersected with arms and outlets of rivers, communicating with
+each other inland. The bottom of the sea, along a great extent of
+coast, is all soft mud. From the Rio Lagos to the Rio Elrei river,
+no fewer than twenty streams enter the ocean, several of them of
+surprising magnitude, and navigable for ships. Large floating
+islands are borne down by their waves, and carried into the ocean.
+The great magnitude of these rivers will by and bye come more
+particularly under our review.</p>
+
+<p>As the easterly course of the Upper Niger is now no longer a
+matter of dispute, it would be perfectly superfluous to bring
+forward, in detail, the authority of writers and geographers, from
+the days of Herodotus downwards to this day, to prove this
+important fact. Its termination is now the subject which engages
+the attention of all. The theories at present most in vogue, are,
+<em>first</em>, that it flows eastward, reaching beyond the
+parallel of 18° North Lat. and then, in about 20° East Long. flows
+south-east, and is the parent stream of the
+Bahr-el-Abiad,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> or Nile
+of Egypt; <em>second</em>, that it terminates in a large lake in
+the interior, which also receives the waters of the Gir, or Nile of
+Soudan, coming from the eastward; <em>third</em>, that the waters
+of both rivers are lost in, and absorbed by swamps and sandy
+deserts, in a country called Wangara; and <em>fourth</em>, that the
+Niger from his middle course flows south, and joins the great River
+Congo, or Zaire.</p>
+
+<p>Every one of these theories is grossly erroneous, contrary to
+every authority on which reliance can be placed, and in opposition
+to every feature of geography exhibited any where else on this
+globe. The expedition to the Congo, so lately undertaken, and so
+unfortunate, has nevertheless settled the question, that the Congo
+and Niger are different streams. The lake said to receive and
+retain the waters of the Gir and the Niger, can no where be heard
+of, either as a sea of salt or fresh water, in the interior of
+Africa. Wangara, said to absorb these rivers in swamps and sands,
+or rather those parts of Africa where Wangara is said to lie, is,
+as the name signifies, a country of a different description—a
+country intersected by many powerful rivers, mountainous, fertile
+and cultivated, and inundated during the rains. That the Niger
+flows to form the Bahr-el-Abiad, is contrary to all probability,
+contrary to the good authority of Ptolemy,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_5">[5]</span> contrary to the authority of the best Arabian
+geographers, and contrary to excellent modern authority. Yet it is
+most surprising that an opinion, so improbable in itself, and so
+directly opposite to all the authorities mentioned, should even to
+this day continue to be believed and maintained.</p>
+
+<p>In following out this subject, and establishing by conclusive
+evidence, the fact which I have advanced, it may not be unnecessary
+to consider the general outline of the Roman and Arabian geography
+of this portion of Africa, to which our attention is directed,
+before we consider authorities of more recent dates. The
+coincidence will thus be more apparent, and the fact more obvious.
+In the geography of Ptolemy we are not to look for the accuracy of
+modern details. Nevertheless, his general features of Northern
+Africa are worthy of attention. In his days, it is obvious, from
+his enumeration of mountains, rivers, and nations, that it must
+have been much better known than it now is; and, therefore, we must
+the more regret that he did not then possess the means which we now
+possess of fixing the positions of the places he mentions with
+geographical accuracy. On this part of the subject, however, it is
+not my intention to enter at great length, but merely to select the
+undisputed and clearer parts which tend so strongly to confirm the
+accounts of modern travellers concerning the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_6">[6]</span> course and termination of the great and
+important streams already mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>The most ancient Greek and Roman authors seem to have been very
+imperfectly acquainted with the great Zahaara, or the countries
+beyond it. Ptolemy himself seems altogether to overlook the desert,
+though he minutely enumerates the countries beyond it. Strabo and
+Pliny conceived that the streams which descended from the
+south-east side of Mount Atlas formed the Niger, and which river
+was in these days believed to be one with the Egyptian Nile. They
+stated that the streams descending from Mount Atlas hid themselves,
+or rather run under the desert for a space occupying 24 days
+journey, when, emerging, they continued their course to the
+eastward, united in the Niger. This desert they describe as being
+composed of <em>black dust</em>. Modern travellers all describe it
+as scorching sands. Whether any alteration has taken place on it
+during the lapse of so many ages, cannot be determined; but it is
+by no means improbable that its extent is considerably increased,
+from the sands gaining on the cultivated ground, as is well known
+to be the case on the side towards Egypt. It is a curious fact,
+that, approaching the middle thereof, reckoning from the Atlantic
+Ocean, abundance of water is found upon digging some feet below the
+surface, and which the Arabs term, “<em>the sea under
+ground</em>.”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> This
+remarkable circumstance might suggest to Strabo and Pliny the idea
+already mentioned of the rivers from Mount Atlas running under
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>Ptolemy wrote on Egypt in the second century of the Christian
+era. Then Africa was better known. The interior of the northern
+division thereof he describes apparently from good authority, and
+with considerable accuracy, only he seems altogether to leave out
+the Great Desert. Mount Mandrus, the middle of which was in 23°
+East Long. from Ferro, and 22° North Lat., and Rhisadirus Mountain
+more to the south, he places as the barrier which divides the
+waters which flow westward into the Atlantic Ocean, by the rivers
+Stachirus, &amp;c. (the Senegal, Gambia, &amp;c.) from those which
+flow eastward in the Niger. Turning eastward from Rhisadirus
+Mountain, we find Mount Caphas in about 10° North Lat. which
+divides the waters which flow south into the <em>great gulf</em>,
+or Gulf of Guinea, and those which flow north to join the Niger. In
+Caphas, we readily recognize the Kong range. Eastward, in the same
+parallel, there is a blank or opening, and then comes Mount Thala,
+situated in 10° North Lat. and 38° East Long. from Ferro.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding further, it is necessary to correct an obvious
+error in the longitude, as reckoned by Ptolemy. He places
+Alexandria in 60° 30′ East<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_8">[8]</span> Long. from Ferro, or 42° 29′ from Greenwich.
+This we know is 12° too much, Alexandria being in 30° East Long.
+from Greenwich, or 48° from Ferro. It is evident, therefore, that
+we must deduct one-fifth (decreasing this deduction in proportion
+as we go west) from the longitude, as laid down by Ptolemy, in
+order to correct his reckoning. By doing this, we shall see how
+accurately the positions of some places agree with modern
+accounts.</p>
+
+<p>South of Mount Thala, in 3° North Lat. and 33° East Long. we
+have Mount Arualtes, and eastward of that in North Lat. 1° 30′, and
+East Long. 47°, we have Mount Arangas. Turning north in 10° North
+Lat., and 50° East Long. we have the chain of hills called the
+Garamantican rampart, which divides the waters which flow west in
+the Gir, from those deserts which stretch eastward to the Nile.
+Turning westward, in the parallel of 21° North Lat. and extending
+along by the sources of the river Cinips, from 40° to 45° East
+Long. we have Mount Girgiris, and from 8° to 10° farther west, in
+the same parallel of Lat. are the Usargala mountains. Next, in
+North Lat. 32°<a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a>, and East Long. 20° 30′,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_9">[9]</span> we have Mount Sagapola, placed most
+erroneously in the map accompanying the work, in 20° North Lat. and
+15° East Long., in the south side, in place of the north side of
+the desert.</p>
+
+<p>The formidable barriers here enumerated, according to the
+delineation of Ptolemy, encircle or enclose those extensive
+valleys, if I may use the expression, through which the Niger, the
+Gir, and their tributary streams, take their course, leaving only
+the opening between Mount Thala and Mount Caphas, for the collected
+flood to escape to the southward. How much these general outlines
+agree with modern accounts, our future investigations, and the
+<a href="#map1">map</a> accompanying this work, will shew.</p>
+
+<p>It is in this portion of Africa that the greatest rivers flow,
+greater, as Ptolemy must mean, than any other which flowed in the
+northern division of that continent. In the middle of the country,
+says he, the greatest rivers display themselves, viz. the Gir,
+joining together the Usargala mountain and the Garamantican barrier
+or rampart. One branch of this river makes the Lake Chelonides, in
+20° North Lat. and 49° East Long. (21° East Long. from Greenwich,)
+and another the Lake Nuba in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_10">[10]</span> North Lat. 15° and East Long. 50°, or 22°
+from Greenwich, answering very accurately with the Lake Fittre of
+modern authors. The course of the Gir westward, Ptolemy distinctly
+marks, by enumerating the cities on its northern bank, from
+Lynxana, in 20° 30′ North Lat. and 48° 30′ East Long., unto
+Thycimath, situate in 19° 45′ North Lat. and 38° East Long. Still
+more westward, he places his Gira metropolis in North Lat. 18° and
+36° East Long. or 12° East from Greenwich.</p>
+
+<p>Next is the Niger river, running east, and joining both Mount
+Mandrus and Mount Thala, that is all the waters which are collected
+in the vale between these mountains flow to form the Niger. The
+course east he distinctly marks, by marking first the Lake
+Nigrites, and then the cities on both the northern and southern
+banks, viz. on the north from Pessidy, situate in 18° North Lat.
+and 19° East Long. to Panagra, in 16° 45′ North Lat. and 31° East
+Long. On the south bank from Thuspu, situated in 17° 45′ North Lat.
+and 26° 30′ East Long. unto Dudum in 15° North Lat. and 31° East
+Long. or about 6° east of Greenwich. At this point the river is
+evidently declining south considerably, and a space of 5° of
+longitude, by Ptolemy’s reckoning, intervenes between this part of
+the Niger and the Gira metropolis, the last point mentioned on the
+Gir river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>The Niger, we are
+informed, makes the Lake Nigrites in 15° East Long.<a id=
+"FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and
+18° North Lat. This is evidently the Lake Dibbie. The Nigira
+metropolis is placed on the map at the junction of a river coming
+from the north-east, and in 17° 45′ North Lat. and 25° 20′ East
+Long. which is about 3° east of Greenwich, answering in longitude
+very nearly indeed with the position of Timbuctoo. On the north
+side the Niger receives two branches, viz. one from the Sagapola
+mountain, and another from the Usargala mountain, which latter is
+probably that branch which joins at the Nigira metropolis. That
+from the Sagapola mountain is evidently a mistake, providing that
+mountain is correctly laid down; but a branch springing south of
+the desert, and coming from that direction, does perhaps join the
+Niger. Ptolemy, in his account of the Sagapola mountain, seems to
+take no notice of the Great Desert, that mountain being placed to
+the north of it. The Upper Niger he clearly brings from the
+north-west.</p>
+
+<p>On the south the Niger receives one branch <em>nigh to</em> two
+places, viz. 17° North Lat. and 21° East Long. and also 13° 30′
+North Lat. and 21° East Long. The accuracy of this we shall by and
+by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> have occasion to
+notice more particularly. Towards the Rising Sun it also receives
+one branch above the Lybian Lake, which lake is placed in 16° 30′
+North Lat., and 35° East Long., or about 12° east of Greenwich.
+This branch, no doubt, comes from the eastern part of, or from the
+country eastward of Mount Thala. Ptolemy seems to indicate, when he
+says, above the Lybian Lake, that this branch joined the Niger
+after the latter had issued from the lake. Yet his exact meaning is
+not easily ascertained. The point, however, is of considerable
+importance; for, if to the westward of the lake, no stream coming
+from the east could join the Niger but the Gir. Be this as it may,
+it is obvious that he means that this branch from the eastward and
+this lake communicated with the Niger. Whoever considers for a
+moment, must see that it could not fail also to have a
+communication with, or rather that it must receive the waters of
+the Gir. The latter stream, in its westerly course, is distinctly
+traced to 18° North Lat. and 36° East Long., while the Lybian Lake
+is placed in 16° 30′ North Lat. and 35° East Long., only about 100
+miles S.W. from the Gira metropolis. This is curious and
+important.</p>
+
+<p>The Niger from this point continues a southerly course,
+otherwise it could not join Mount Thala, the middle of which is in
+10° North Lat. and 38°<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_13">[13]</span> East Long., or 13° 40′ east of Greenwich.
+Further, we have in Ptolemy no accurate accounts of the course of
+this river. But that it flows south and joins the ocean, he
+certainly meant, when he says, that Lybia, wherein he had described
+the courses of the rivers mentioned, was bounded on the south by
+that part of Ethiopia Interior called Agisymba; and concerning
+these African rivers, he says, “Illorum vero qui <em>per interiorem
+Æthiopam</em> fluant, quique <em>fontes et ostia</em> in continente
+habent maximi sunt Gir et Niger.” (Lib. ii. E. 1. de maximis
+fluminibus.) In this the southern course is very plainly marked,
+and also their termination in the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>With one observation I shall conclude this part of the subject.
+In Mount Girgiris, situate, as has been already mentioned, Ptolemy
+states that the river Cinips has its source in two places, viz. in
+the parallel of 21° North Lat. and in 40° and 45° East Long. This
+river flows north, and enters the Mediterranean between the greater
+and the lesser Syrtes, in 42° 15′ East Long., or to the eastward of
+modern Tripoli. No such river we certainly know flows through this
+part of Africa. It is therefore probable that the springs in Mount
+Girgiris flowed, joined, and formed a river running in a different
+direction. The river Cinyphus, which enters the Mediterranean, is
+certainly one of those streams<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_14">[14]</span> which rise north of the desert, and have very
+short courses indeed, compared to what the Cinips would have, if it
+flowed from Lat. 21° North, a course of nearly 800 miles. The river
+springing in Mount Girgiris certainly takes a different direction,
+and doing this, it will correspond with the accounts of the
+direction of the rivers in that part of Africa, as these are
+described by modern travellers.</p>
+
+<p>After Ptolemy, the early Arabian authors and geographers demand
+our attention. From their careless and obscure manner of writing on
+these subjects, it is impossible to reconcile all their statements.
+Sufficient, however, remains to shew us our way. According to Leo,
+the ancient Arabian chroniclers, viz. Bukri and Mishuudi, knew
+nothing in the land of the Negroes till the year of the Hegira 380
+(A.D. 1002,) except Alguechet and Cano. These discoveries were
+evidently made from Egypt, as Alguechet is an Oasis in the desert
+120 Arabian miles distant from Egypt, and seems to have been the
+first stage in the road to western discovery. At the period
+last-mentioned, however, the Arabs from Barbary passed the great
+desert, and all the countries to the south thereof were quickly
+explored and conquered. Those formidable deserts, which formed a
+rampart against the advance of the most powerful nations of
+antiquity, were, to the roving Arab, strengthened by enthusiasm,
+and fortified by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>
+predestination, no barriers whatever. Innumerable swarms soon found
+their way to the southward, and planted, amidst powerful colonies,
+the standard and religion of their prophet on the banks of the
+Niger. They penetrated through the centre of the country, from sea
+to sea, from the Mediterranean to the Gulf of Guinea. When the
+Portuguese first discovered the latter part of the coast of Africa,
+they found the population every where mixed with Arabs. The western
+parts of the continent, however, namely, the countries along the
+north and south of the Senegal, were less known to them to much
+later periods. These seem to have been the refuge of the ancient
+inhabitants of Morocco, &amp;c. who, driven from their ancient
+abodes by the disciples of Mahommed, sought refuge across the
+desert, and, being a more intelligent and hardy race than the
+Negroes, were thus for a longer period enabled to repel the attacks
+of their restless enemies.</p>
+
+<p>The central and southern parts of Northern Africa became thus
+well known to the Arabian writers, either from observation or
+report. In some parts, however, they contracted, and in others
+extended, the continent beyond its proper limits. “The ambient
+sea,” (Bahar Addolum, Sea of darkness, or Atlantic Ocean,) says
+Abulfeda, “extends itself from Mauritania until it has passed the
+desert of Lemptuna, (Great Desert,) a vast wilderness
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> barbarians, to the
+country of the Nigritæ. Thence it stretches yet farther southwards,
+till it has <em>passed beyond the Equator</em>, after which it
+extends to the east, <em>behind the mountains of El Komri</em>,
+from whence the Nile of Egypt has its source. Again, it proceeds
+southward,” &amp;c. Leo Africanus states, that the “south part of
+Africa abutteth upon the Ocean Sea, which compasseth it almost as
+far as the deserts of Gaoga.” These deserts of Gaoga, according to
+the same authority, lie to the south and the south-west of the
+kingdom of Gaoga, which kingdom extended on the west bank of the
+Nile from the confines of Egypt, southward 500 Arabian miles, to
+the great bend of the Nile, about Dongola. This, with the account
+from Abulfeda, shews how much the early Arabian writers were
+deceived regarding the true position of the Gulf of Guinea, and how
+far eastward they conceived that it pierced into the African
+continent.</p>
+
+<p>Belad-el-Soudan, was the general term applied to those parts of
+Africa inhabited by Negroes, south of the Great Zahaara, and west
+of the deserts of Nubia. “Belad-el-Soudan,” says Bakui, who
+flourished about the year 1400, “or the Country of the Blacks,
+extendeth on the north to that of the Berbers, on the south to
+deserts, on the east to Ethiopia, and on the west to the ocean sea.
+It is burned by a perpendicular sun. The inhabitants<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span> are naked, part Mussulmen, and
+part Infidels.” Speaking of that portion of Africa which abounds
+with mines of the “most pure gold,” Ebn Haukal says, “this land of
+the Blacks is a very extensive region. Their skin is of a finer and
+deeper black than any other blacks, whether Habeshis,
+(Abyssinians,) or Zingians, (Ethiopians;) and their country is more
+extensive than that of any other nation of blacks. <em>It is
+situated on the coasts of the ocean to the south</em>.” This
+distinctly points out the northern shore of the Gulf of Guinea. Ebn
+Haukal was the most accurate of all the Arabian geographers, and is
+with great reason supposed to have visited every country which he
+describes. Regarding the boundary south, Bakui seems not to have
+been so well-informed, when he says, it is “by deserts” on that
+quarter. But he evidently carries his Belad-el-Sudan no farther
+south than the mighty chain of Kong and the chain in the same
+parallel of latitude, stretching eastward to El Komri. By the word
+deserts, we are to understand not only sandy deserts, like the
+great Zahaara, but likewise mountainous, rugged, and woody
+countries less civilized, cultivated, and inhabited than others.
+Leo Africanus enables us to clear up this point. He states, that
+the kingdom of Melli is bounded south by “certain deserts and dry
+mountains,” which are without doubt the bleak mountains in the Kong
+chain. But still more expressly,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_18">[18]</span> and to the point, he states, that “the land
+of the negroes lies between the Lybian Desert (Zahaara) and a
+<em>desert</em> to the south, which stretcheth to the main ocean.”
+But that it is not barren sands is evident, for he adds, “<em>in
+the desert are infinite</em> nations (except by report) unknown to
+us.” The country south of Guangara, the same authority informs us,
+is of a similar description. Hence the authority of Leo and Bakui
+is reconciled, and the meaning of their respective descriptions,
+and others of a similar nature, given by other Arabian writers,
+are, by this elucidation rendered clear and plain.</p>
+
+<p>Belad-el-Sudan, or the country of the blacks, is, by Arabian
+authors, divided into several large portions, each of which
+contains a number of kingdoms and states. The larger divisions
+which are more immediately connected with our present
+investigation, are the land of Gaoga, the land of Kanem, Ghana,
+Maly, Meczarat-al-Sudan, Lamlem, and Belad-el-Tibri. The four first
+occupied the whole country south of the Great Desert, and the
+deserts of Lybia, extending through central Africa, from the
+Egyptian Nile to the sources of the Senegal. The three latter
+divisions, or portions, lie to the south of the former.</p>
+
+<p>Gaoga does not properly belong to the land of the negroes,
+which, in fact, commences from the western borders of the former.
+Gaoga, 300 years<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> ago,
+comprehended all that country from the confines of Egypt to the
+desert south of Dongola, and from the Nile to the limits of the
+great empire of Bornou. In the latter direction, according to Leo,
+it is about 500 miles in breadth. The country is in general barren,
+and full of burning deserts.</p>
+
+<p>The land of Kanem. This was formerly a mighty and important
+country, though now merged in the great empire of Bornou, and
+parcelled out into smaller states, such as Bagherme, &amp;c. “On
+the borders of the Nile,” says the Egyptian historian Macrisi,
+“lies also the land of Kanem; the king of which is a Mahommedan.
+<em>It is at a great distance from the land of Maly</em>. The
+capital is Heymy. The first town on the side towards Egypt (that is
+on the caravan route) is Zeilah, and the last, reckoning
+lengthways, is called Kaka, about three months journey from the
+other. The people go veiled. Their king remains behind a curtain
+when he speaks to any one. Except on two mornings each year, at the
+time of Asseer, no one sees him. Their main food is rice. It grows
+without culture. They have wheat, Indian corn, (dhoura,) figs,
+lemons, and other fruits. Their currency is cotton-stuffs, called
+Dandy, and cowries. Gourds grow to a great size. They make ships
+(perhaps rafts) of them, upon which they cross the Nile. To the
+south of them are forests and deserts inhabited by<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> wild creatures, like demons,
+approaching to the figure of a man, whom a horseman cannot
+overtake, and which hurt people. In the night there appears
+something like fire; it shines, and when any one goes towards it,
+it retires to a distance from him, so that if he should even run,
+he never can come up with it, but it always keeps before him, and
+if he throws a stone at it, and hits it, sparks fly from it. These
+countries lie between Barca and Mogreb (a general name for Southern
+Africa) and extend to the south as far as the middle Gharb. Their
+religion is of the sect of Imam Malek Ibn Anes.”— (Burkhardt.)</p>
+
+<p>The manners, customs, and produce of the country, are much the
+same as are now found in Bornou, at that time a province of Kanem.
+The wild creatures like demons are no doubt the African
+ourang-outang and ape, which abound in the forests of Southern
+Africa, particularly towards Dar Kulla and countries south of
+Bornou, which places, from the great extent of the land of Kanem,
+it evidently reached. That they hurt, and even attack people,
+particularly women, we learn from various authorities. Mollien,
+page 286, says, “it is dangerous to meet the African ourang-outang,
+particularly if a person be unarmed;” and in pages 290 and 291, he
+relates an account of an assault made upon a woman by a number of
+apes, who beat her most severely,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_21">[21]</span> and afterwards fought a desperate battle with
+the principal inhabitants of a village near Galam, who went on
+horseback to attack these animals. The fire that appeared at night
+was most probably the fire fly, so numerous near rivers and forests
+in the torrid zone, and which perhaps formed those “<em>fiery
+rivers</em>” which astonished Hanno, the Carthaginian navigator and
+his followers.</p>
+
+<p>From the description here given by Macrisi, it is plain that the
+Nile (the Gir,) or some, if not all its large branches, passed
+through this land of Kanem. Ibn-al-Vardi confirms the account of
+Macrisi. The former states that “Konem, or Kanem, is a large
+country, situated along the Nile,” and, what is still more to the
+point, he says, “the inhabitants were all Mussulmen <em>of the sect
+of Imam Malek</em>.” Cities fall and empires disappear, but the
+sects, tribes, and religion of the Arabs survive the roll of ages,
+and form our sure guides. Edrisi also states Kanem as a large
+district, and adds, that some negroes stated that Kaugha was
+subject to it. Kanem, though humbled, is still known. According to
+Burkhardt, “it is a large district, inhabited by the tribes of
+Tendjear, and Beni Wayl,” (p. 479.) It is situated east of Bornou,
+and near the river Sharee, and Bahr el Gazalle. Sheeref Imhammed
+places Kanem north of Bornou in the road to Mourzook, but Burkhardt
+is perhaps the best authority.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>Ghana, and the
+countries once subject to it, was, during the days of its vigour,
+the richest and most important kingdom which the Arabs ruled in
+interior Africa. It lay to the west of Kanem, and was situated upon
+the Nile. It was perhaps what is now known under the name of Cano.
+Vancara, Cassina, and many other surrounding kingdoms, obeyed the
+authority of Ghana, whose sovereign was exceedingly rich and
+powerful. The inhabitants had long boats on the Nile, with which
+they fished and carried on communication with other cities. In its
+largest sense, the land of Ghana must have been of great extent.
+Ghana, according to Edrisi, was bounded on the north by the
+<em>broadest</em> desert, lying out between the countries of the
+blacks and Barbary. According to Ibn-al-Vardi, it was bounded on
+the south by Meghrara, or Meczara. It was through the negroes
+country of Meczara that the Nile of the negroes, according to
+Edrisi, ran in its progress to the sea near the Isle of Ulil.
+Meczara El-Sudan, in all probability, was a general term applied by
+the Arabs to all the countries lying to the south of their first
+established kingdoms in Africa. They seem, in their progress of
+colonization, to have proceeded first westward down the Gir, and
+then to have been met by fresh colonies; which colonies descending
+from Barbary, urged their progress eastward and along the Niger,
+till they met their countrymen on the Gir.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>The Pagan country
+of Lamlem lay to the southward and westward of the kingdom of
+Ghana. “The countries and dominions of Lamlem,” says Edrisi, “lay
+near a certain river flowing into the Nile. It is not known whether
+there is any inhabited place to the southward, (rather S.W.) of
+Lamlem, it being bounded on that side by a “Desert.” Thus
+indicating that it is bounded on the southward and westward by a
+mountainous and woody country. According to Ibn-al-Vardi, Lamlem is
+an inland city, “where gold is found.” This would lead us to look
+for it between the Niger and the Kong Mountains. Edrisi, however,
+has left us a more particular mark by which we can ascertain the
+true position of this country, which was invaded by all its
+Mahommedan neighbours, and its population carried off to be made
+slaves. “When any of all the inhabitants of Lamlem,” says Edrisi,
+“come to have the use of their reason, he is burnt in the face and
+temples; this they do to distinguish each other.” Now, according to
+Bowditch, this is the practice of the people of Dagwumba, (famous
+for the abundance of gold,) Yahndi and Moosee, countries S.W. of
+the Niger, and in the immediate vicinity of the Kong Mountains,
+“where gold is found.” “The people of Dagwumba,” says he, “have
+three slight cuts on each cheek bone, and three below, with one
+horizontal under the eye.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_24">[24]</span> Those of Yahndi, three deep indented cuts.
+The people of Moosee, three very deep and long, and one under the
+eye.” (Bowditch, p. 183.) These are unchangeable features, and
+cannot mislead us. In all other parts of Africa, the people are
+marked on their bodies. Lamlem, therefore, lay S. and S.W. of the
+Niger, towards Kong, and was near a river which flowed into the
+Niger, or the Nile of these Arabian geographers.</p>
+
+<p>Belad-el-Tibri, or the country of pure gold, seems a general
+name applied to all that part of Africa, south of the Upper Niger,
+towards the mountainous country of Kong, where gold is so abundant.
+“Belad-el-Tibri, <em>or the country of pure gold</em>,” says Bakui,
+“is part of the Sudans or the Blacks in the south of Africa. From
+Segelmessa (south of Mount Atlas,) to this country, they reckon
+three months journey. Here you see gold come out of the sand, as
+elsewhere plants out of the earth.” This is sufficient to enable us
+to ascertain what is meant by “Belad-el-Tibri,” and also where that
+country is. The Empire of Ghana, Bakui also informs us, was situate
+near this rich and evidently extensive district.</p>
+
+<p>The land of Maly, which, according to Macrisi, is at “<em>a very
+great distance</em>” from the land of Kanem, next demands our
+attention. The celebrated Arabian traveller, Batouta, enables us to
+fix<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> the position of
+this important country. This man was perhaps the greatest land
+traveller that ever lived. He had visited every country from China
+to Spain, and traversed nearly all northern Africa. An abridgment
+of his important travels was found by Burckhardt in Egypt. The work
+is become very scarce. Batouta was a native of Tangier. From
+Segelmessa, he set out with the slave caravan for Sudan, in the
+year of the Hegira 753, (A.D. 1375.) In 45 days they crossed the
+Desert, and reached the first town in Sudan, called Abou Laten, or
+Eiswalaten, perhaps Walet. From Abou Laten, he travelled to Maly,
+through a country abounding with large trees, in the hollow of one
+of which he saw a weaver at work on his loom. Ten days brought them
+to Zaghary, an extensive place inhabited by negro traders, and some
+white people of the heretic creed of Byadha, supposed to be
+Christians or Jews. Leaving Zaghary, but without mentioning the
+distance, or the bearing travelled, he came to the Nile (Niger,) at
+a village named Karsendjour or Kosegarten.</p>
+
+<p>“From Karsendjour,” says Batouta, “the Nile flows down to
+Kabera, and from thence to Zagha, the inhabitants of which are
+Moslems of old, and strong in the faith.” In this we readily
+recognize Sego, whose people are to this day very rigid
+Mahommedans. “From Zagha,” continues Batouta,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_26">[26]</span> “the Nile flows down to Timbuctoo,
+<em>then to Kuku</em>, to Mouly, the last place in the country of
+Maly, to Bowy, (Query, can this be the same as Boussa?) which is
+one of the largest cities in Sudan, and the Sultan one of the most
+powerful in that country. No white man enters it, for he would be
+killed before his arrival.” From Karsendjour, the traveller
+“proceeded to the river called Sansera, about ten miles from Maly,
+and then entered Maly, where he remained two months, and received
+presents from Sultan Mousey Solyman, an avaricious but very just
+king. The women in this country never cover their nakedness till
+after marriage.”</p>
+
+<p>From the mutability of names in Africa, it is impossible for us
+to fix precisely the spot where Batouta first reached the Niger.
+The time he took to travel from Segelmessa across the Desert,
+agrees very well with the distance to Walet, and from 15 to 20 days
+would bring him to the Niger about Yamina. His general route to
+this point was in all probability south. From the Niger, his course
+was probably to the eastward of south, which would soon bring him
+to the Ba Nimma, which seems to have been his river Sansera. The
+Maly here mentioned, there seems no reason to doubt, is the Melli
+of Leo, and the early Portuguese Voyagers. According to Cadamosto,
+it was 30 days journey S.W. from Timbuctoo, and from
+Leo,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> we learn that it
+was an extensive country, “extending 300 Arabian miles along a
+river which falleth into the Niger. It is bounded by Jinnéé on the
+north, Gago on the east, south by certain deserts and dry
+mountains, and west by huge <em>woods and forests</em>, stretching
+to the Ocean (Atlantic) Sea. The capital, Melli, contains 6000
+families or more. They excel all negroes in wit, civility, and
+industry. They are rich, and have plenty of wares. The country
+yieldeth great abundance of corn, flesh, and cotton. Here are many
+artificers and merchants in all places. The people of Melli were
+the first that embraced Mahommedanism.” The identity therefore of
+the Maly of Batouta, and the Melli of Leo, is very apparent. This
+country must either be situated along the Ba Nimma, or on the Niger
+itself, as will be noticed more fully as we proceed in tracing the
+latter. According to the itineraries which Bowditch obtained from
+several Moors, there is at this day a place called Mali, to the
+west of Sego. (Bowditch, pages 484, 487, 489, and 192.)</p>
+
+<p>“In 764, (A.D. 1376,) Batouta left Maly, and came to a canal or
+branch of the Nile, where he saw a great number of Hippopotami;
+<em>and from thence, after many days</em>, he reached Timbuctoo. It
+is a town of the kingdom of Maly, and a black governor, named by
+the Sultan of Maly, resides<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_28">[28]</span> there. Most of its inhabitants are traders.”
+From thence he passed down the Nile in a canoe, till he came to
+Kuku, paying daily visits to the towns on the banks of the river.”
+Kuku is a large city, <em>one of the finest in Sudan</em>. Here, as
+well as in Maly, they use shells for currency. From thence he
+reached the town of Berdamma, whose inhabitants <em>are the
+guardians of the caravans</em>. Their women are beautiful. From
+this he went to Nekda or Tedka, built of red stones. The water with
+which it was supplied, runs over copper mines, and assumes a red
+colour, whence it is called <em>Bahar-el-Ahmar</em>, or Red River.
+The people have no employment except trade, and the copper outside
+of Nekda, where slaves work. The copper is melted into long pieces,
+which are carried to the Pagan negroes for sale, and to other
+places. The Sultan was of the Berber nation. From hence the
+traveller returned to Barbary in 1376, passing through Twat, Hekar
+of the Berbers, and Segelmessa, from whence he went to Faz, where
+his travels ended.”</p>
+
+<p>From Kuku, Batouta turned homewards. The road he took from
+thence clearly establishes this fact. The people of Berdamma being
+the <em>guardians of the caravans</em>, and the Sultan of Nekda
+being of the <em>Berber nation</em>, fixes these places on the
+south side of the Great Desert, and N.E. of Timbuctoo. How far Kuku
+is below Timbuctoo, we are left to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_29">[29]</span> conjecture. From the former place he was 70
+days in reaching Twat. This Oasis in the Desert is 45 days journey
+from Timbuctoo, nearly north. Allowing that Batouta rested no part
+of the 70 days mentioned, but which it is probable that he did, and
+taking into consideration the declination of the Niger southward
+below Timbuctoo, Batouta could scarcely have been more than 25 days
+journey below the latter place. About that distance from Timbuctoo,
+according to Sidi Hamed, there are two very large towns on the
+south bank of the Niger. Batouta’s account of the river called
+“Bahar-el-Ahmar,” is a curious circumstance, and seems to confirm
+the account given by Adams of the river which, coming from the N.E.
+joins the Niger at Timbuctoo, and called the Red River of the
+Desert.</p>
+
+<p>The two great points, however, here established by this
+narrative of Batouta, is the account of the great kingdom of Maly,
+to which in these days Timbuctoo was tributary, and the information
+that the great city of Kuku, “famous amongst the negroes for
+magnitude,” was in this land of Maly, the first place of note below
+Timbuctoo, and upon the banks of the Niger. Modern geographers have
+placed Kuku N.E. of Bagharme, near 1200 miles from the Niger. Had
+such an important city been in these parts, it would not have
+escaped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> the knowledge
+of Mr. Browne’s informants, nor the researches and inquiries of the
+accurate and intelligent Burckhardt, who gives the routes of
+travellers from Dar Saley to Mourzook, over the very spot where
+Kuku has been erroneously placed, without once hinting that such a
+city existed. This grievous error concerning the situation of Kuku,
+has tended to confuse all the Arabian geography of Africa. The
+authority for placing it in the part referred to is Edrisi. But
+that author is very undecided and uncertain on that point. “Kuku,”
+says he, “is famous amongst the negroes for magnitude. It is
+situated on the banks of a river which, flowing <em>from the north
+part</em>, washes it, and although many negroes relate that the
+city of Kuku is situated on the banks of the Nile, <em>others place
+it near a river flowing into the Nile</em>. The king of Kuku is
+absolute, dependent upon no one, he has much attendance, and the
+greatest empire. The people are of a martial disposition. The
+governors and nobility are dressed in satin,” &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The accounts given by Edrisi of the magnitude and importance of
+Kuku, are fully confirmed, and correspond exactly with the
+description given by Batouta nearly two hundred years later. The
+position of the city, however, as mentioned by Batouta, must be
+relied on in preference, because he saw what he describes, and
+Edrisi only wrote from hearsay,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_31">[31]</span> and reports from travellers. Some of these
+reported that Kuku was not upon the Nile, that is the Gir, but
+“near a river flowing into the Nile,” which is the fact, by Kuku
+standing upon the banks of the Niger. Edrisi had evidently very
+imperfect accounts of the river we call the Niger, and not
+sufficient to enable him to distinguish it from the Nile or Gir,
+which ran westward till it met the former. Scheabeddin informs us,
+that the country between Abyssinia and Syene, through which the
+Nile of Egypt passed, was called Coucou; and modern authorities
+tell us, that near Lake Fittre is a country called Dar Cooka, but
+neither of these were, or could be, the Kuku of Batouta. The city
+as it is at present placed, is situated in the land of Kanem,
+whereas Batouta distinctly states it to be in the land of Maly,
+which Macrisi informs us is at “<em>a very great distance</em>”
+from the former.</p>
+
+<p>There are some particulars regarding the kingdom of Melli, which
+require further consideration. According to Leo, it was bounded
+south by a <em>desert and bare mountains</em>. In this we readily
+recognize the high and bleak hills of Kong. But he states that, on
+the west it is bounded by <em>huge woods and forests</em>, which
+stretch to the ocean, that is to the Atlantic. In this he seems
+evidently to have had in view the vast woody and hilly country
+west<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> of the Niger,
+and its course above Bammakoo. Perhaps these vast countries were in
+those days but little known to the followers of Mahomet, and
+therefore supposed to be little else but continued woods and
+forests. Indeed Abulfeda calls these coasts “uncultivated,
+uninhabited, and unfrequented countries.” Melli, however, seems to
+have been a name which extended over a great part of the most
+western portion of Africa. The name was quite familiar to the early
+European navigators. Cada Mosto in 1455 was informed, when in the
+Gambia, that the chiefs up that river, ten days journey distant,
+“were subservient to the king of Melli, the great emperor of the
+negroes,” (<em>Clarke’s</em> Mar. Dis. p. 279.) According to
+Barbot, some navigators make the limits of Sierra Leone extend
+“north to Cape Verga, making it border on the kingdom of Melli that
+way.” (<em>Clarke</em>, Mar. Dis. p. 314.) The early Dutch
+navigators in 1600 state, that the coast from Cape Verde to Cape
+Palmas, was called Melligette, where the kingdom of Melli was
+situated. This kingdom of Melli hath another under it called
+Bitonni, which lyeth not far from the Rio Cestos.
+(<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 928.) This shews how far the fame
+and authority of Melli extended in those days, and that, though the
+centre of its power was on the upper Niger, it nevertheless
+overawed or claimed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>
+respect from the most distant parts in the south-most portion of
+Africa<a id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class=
+"fnanchor">[3]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Cada Mosto particularly mentions, that Melli was the great
+channel of the gold trade with Timbuctoo, Barbary, Tunis, and
+Cairo. Salt was a great article of barter for gold dust, and was
+brought from Tegazza in the Great Desert. The people of Melli were
+the carriers of these articles, and Cada Mosto and several other
+authorities mention a strange circumstance, that this barter was
+effected with negroes whom the Melli merchants never saw. The
+latter carried their salt to the banks of a great water, and
+placing it there in parcels, left it. Other negroes then came in
+boats from islands adjacent, and finding the salt, laid a quantity
+of gold beside it equal to what they conceived the value of the
+salt to be, and then retired. The Melli merchants returned, and if
+they were satisfied with the quantity of gold, took it, left the
+salt, and departed, without having seen or spoken to the other
+merchants. (<em>Clarke</em>, Mar. Dis. p. 245.) According to
+Wadstrom, the negroes who carry on this singular traffic, inhabit
+the interior countries to the north of the Grain and
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> Gold coast. The
+<em>Great Water</em> to which Cada Mosto was informed the salt was
+carried for this singular trade, was therefore, in all probability,
+the Niger in its upper course, and eastern branch on the lake,
+which is probably formed at the confluence of its branches.</p>
+
+<p>Having thus briefly considered Batouta’s important narrative,
+the land of Maly and Kuku, the most important city in Sudan,
+situated in the land of Maly, we shall now proceed to give the
+account of the course and termination of the Nile or Gir, according
+to the authority of different Arabian geographers. It is the Gir of
+Ptolemy with which they were acquainted, and to which all their
+descriptions apply. Scheabeddin, who flourished about the year
+1400, follows the ideas of Ptolemy about the Mountains of the Moon
+being situated beyond the equator, from which mountains the
+Egyptian Nile takes its rise. “It cuts,” says he, “horizontally the
+equator in its course north. Many sources come from this mountain,
+and unite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, the
+greatest and most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many
+rivers derived from this great river water Nubia, <em>and the
+country of Djenawa</em>.” His account of the sources of the Nile
+south of the equator are grossly erroneous, but the account
+related, in the Arabic mode of expression, that a river or
+rivers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> flowing from
+it “<em>waters the country of Djenawa</em>,” is most important,
+because Djenawa is the Arabic name for the country we call Guinea,
+and by them used in a much more extended sense and meaning. It in
+fact comprehends Africa from the Gold Coast to the borders of the
+Great Zahaara<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class=
+"fnanchor">[4]</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Edrisi, however, who was born in Nubia, and wrote in Egypt,
+gives us a more accurate account of the sources of what was then
+known as the Nile of Sudan. “In part 4th of climate 1st, (climate
+1st extends from the equator to the tropic of Cancer,) viz. in that
+part of Ethiopia, south and south-west of Nubia, says he, “is
+<em>seen the separating of the two Niles</em>. The one flows from
+south to north into Egypt, and the other part of the Nile flows
+from the east to the <em>utmost bounds of the west, and upon this
+branch of the Nile lie all, or at least the most celebrated</em>
+kingdoms of the negroes. The blacks mostly inhabit the banks of the
+Nile, <em>or streams that flow into it. It waters the country from
+east to west</em>.” Here the westerly course is most distinctly
+marked out by both authors. By the term “separating,” we are not to
+understand the separation of the two rivers, as if the one really
+flowed from the other, but<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_36">[36]</span> their separation as rising and taking
+different courses in a region, not at a particular spot.
+Scheabeddin’s term “derived from,” is tantamount to the same thing,
+and both are a mode of expression quite common and familiar in all
+eastern countries, and particularly with Arabian writers. Abulfeda
+also confirms this account of the westerly course of the Nile. Leo
+also states the same thing, though he is extremely confused between
+the accounts which he had heard, and that which he must have seen,
+namely, that the Niger, a different river, ran from west to
+east.</p>
+
+<p>“In climate 1st, part 1st,” says Edrisi, “are the cities of
+Ulil, Salla, Tocrur, Dau, Berissa, and Musa, all situated in the
+Negroes’ country of Mecrara. In the island of Ulil, which stands
+not far from the continent, <em>are those famous salt-pits, the
+only ones we know in all the countries of the negroes</em>, whence
+they are every where supplied with salt. Men coming to this island
+load their vessels with salt, and direct their course to the mouth
+of the Nile, which is at the distance of <em>one day’s sail</em>.
+Along the Nile they afterwards pass by Salla, Tocrur, Berissa, and
+other provinces of Ghana, Vancara, and Caugha. These countries are
+subject to intense heat. Therefore the inhabitants of the first,
+second, and some parts of the third climate are black.” Meghrara,
+or Meczara, says Ibn-al-Vardi,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_37">[37]</span> “is in the territory of the Sudans, or the
+Blacks. The principal city is named Oulili. <em>It is situated on
+the shore of the sea. There is salt pits, and a great trade in
+salt</em>.” Scheabeddin, already quoted, indeed says, that the
+branch of the Nile which passes westward through “the country of
+Djenawa, does not flow to the sea, but only to the end of the
+inhabited part of the land of Ghana.” The end of the land of Ghana,
+there is little doubt, is the termination of this river, because it
+thereabouts joins the Niger; but that it does not terminate in this
+place, Edrisi assures us, when he states that the river runs
+through the Negroes country of Meczara, which Ibn-al-Vardi says is
+south of the land of Ghana. He also agrees with Edrisi in the
+farther course of the river, when he mentions that Tocrur, which is
+in Meczara, is situated on the south-west bank. Scheabeddin’s
+meaning, therefore, can only be, that, at the point mentioned, it
+joined another river, or that its further progress was unknown to
+him. Had it here terminated in a lake, he would scarcely have
+omitted to state it.</p>
+
+<p>The salt pits, and a great trade in salt into the interior
+clearly fixes the mouth of the river on the sea-shore. We shall
+search the west coast of Africa in vain, for any thing resembling
+the account given by Edrisi, except in the Delta of Benin. There
+the island of Fernando Po is exactly one<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_38">[38]</span> day’s sail from the mouth of a great river.
+Opposite this island, and on the mainland, are numerous salt pits.
+To this day, to this hour, a great trade in salt is carried on from
+these parts up the rivers far into the interior. It is the chief
+employment of the natives, and has hitherto been the principal
+trade which they followed, the slave-trade excepted.</p>
+
+<p>In all these accounts, from different authorities, the Nile of
+Egypt and the Nile of Sudan are clearly and most distinctly stated
+to be different rivers. But we have yet an earlier authority than
+any of these authors mentioned, to shew that they are so. In
+Macrisi’s History of Egypt, we have related the travels of Ibn
+Selym Assouany, a native of Egypt, who travelled through Nubia, and
+upwards to the Bahr-el-Abiad, as early as about the year 200 of the
+Hegira (A.D. 822.) “When on the banks of the Bahr-el-Abiad,” says
+Selym, “I inquired at the Moggrebbin (negro) travellers whom I met
+there, and who had travelled in Sudan, about the Nile of their
+country, they stated that it rose <em>in mountains of sand</em>,
+(confines of the Desert perhaps they meant) and that it collects in
+Sudan into large seas, (or lakes;) that it is <em>unknown where it
+afterwards flowed to</em>, and that its colour was not white.” Here
+is the most convincing proof that the rivers were different.
+Standing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> on the banks
+of the Bahr-el-Abiad, they must have known if it was the same river
+which passed through their country (Sudan.) When they state that
+they were ignorant of the termination of the Nile of Sudan, and
+that its colour was not white, like the colour of the
+Bahr-el-Abiad, they in fact distinctly state, that the latter was a
+different river from the former.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of Northern Africa was visited by Leo Africanus, an
+intelligent Mahommedan, about 300 years ago. His accounts, as these
+relate to the general features of the country, the kingdoms,
+productions, and trade, are in several instances of great
+importance. There is a confusion, or rather want of accuracy in
+some particulars, which is to be regretted. This arises perhaps
+from errors in translating his work, and also from the
+transmutation of proper names from the Arabic into the Italian, and
+afterwards into other languages. As several parts of his narrative
+will be referred to more properly in another place, the notice
+taken of it in this part of our subject shall necessarily be
+brief.</p>
+
+<p>His account of Melli we have already considered. The next
+kingdom of importance is Genni or Jinnee, which is bounded north by
+Gualata, south by Melle, and east by Timbuctoo. The length, he
+says, is 500 Arabic miles, and its extent 250 miles<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> along the Niger, bordering upon
+the <em>Ocean Sea, in the same place where the Niger falleth into
+the said sea</em>. This region, during July, August, and September,
+is yearly environed with the overflowings of the Niger in manner of
+an island, all which time the merchants of Timbuctoo convey their
+merchandise hither in certain canoes or narrow boats, made of one
+tree, which they row all day long, but at night they bind to the
+shore and lodge themselves upon the land. This country was once
+subject to the Lybians, (Gualata) afterwards it was tributary to
+King Soni Heli, (Morocco,) and next to Izchia, King of Timbuctoo.”
+(<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 827.) Either Leo or his translator
+here confounds two things which are radically distinct<a id=
+"FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>.
+The kingdom of Jinnee or Genni is totally different from the
+country named, (at least in its extended and general meaning,)
+Gheneoa, Ghenehoa, Genowa, Genawa, or Djenawa, which signifies
+Guinea, in its most extended meaning. The kingdom of Genni does
+extend along the Niger, and perhaps from it the whole country
+southward might derive the general name of Genowa or Djenawa. The
+kingdom of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> Jinnee,
+however, in its restricted and proper sense, does not border upon
+the <em>Ocean Sea</em>, (Atlantic) but upon Lake Dibbie, whereas
+Gheneoa or Genawa, (Guinea) does border upon the <em>Ocean
+Sea</em>, and “in the same place where the Niger entereth that
+sea.” De Bry, in his Hist. Ind. Orient. states upon the authority
+of the early European navigators, that “Benni, or Benin, is
+esteemed to be part of the Gold Coast and Guinea,”
+(<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 965.) The words “Ocean Sea,”
+invariably mean the Atlantic Ocean, and are never applied by the
+Arabs to designate a lake, though the word “sea” frequently is. El
+Hagi Shabeeny establishes the fact that Genawa and Guinea, are the
+same, when he relates “that fish oil, a great article of trade, is
+brought from the neighbourhood of the sea, by Genawa to Houssa and
+Timbuctoo; <em>dearer at Timbuctoo than at Houssa, and dearer at
+Houssa than at Genawa</em>.” (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 28.):
+thus clearly pointing out the quarter and the course of this trade.
+The length also of Gheneoa, as recorded by Leo, viz. 500 Arabic
+miles (625 British) from north to south, would point out, that this
+country and the kingdom of Jinnee were different, for that distance
+would extend from Lake Dibbie almost to the mouth of the Rio
+Lagos.</p>
+
+<p>Timbuctoo, according to Leo, was situated <em>on a branch of the
+Niger</em>, and was founded in the year<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_42">[42]</span> of the Hegira 610 (A.D. 1232.) In his days
+Timbuctoo had subjected to its authority all the neighbouring
+states, viz. Jinnee, Melli, Cassina, Gago, Guber, &amp;c. Kabra, a
+large town on the Niger, and the port of that city, was distant
+from it about 12 Arabic (14½ British) miles. Here the negroes
+resorted in great numbers from all quarters, and embarking with
+their merchandise, sailed westward to Jinnee and Melli. Timbuctoo
+was then, and has ever since, been the great emporium of the trade
+of Central Africa. The inhabitants were represented as wealthy and
+industrious, particularly while they were subject to Morocco.</p>
+
+<p>The great city and powerful kingdom of Gago was situated (the
+capital) about 400 Arabic miles distant from Timbuctoo, a little to
+the southward of east. The merchants were exceeding rich, and every
+thing was abundant. The country abounded with corn and cattle, but
+fruits and wine were scarce. The position of Gago by this reckoning
+would be in about 10° or 10° 30′ N. Lat. and from 4° to 5° E.
+Long.<a id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class=
+"fnanchor">[6]</a> South of Gago also, according to other
+authorities, lay the once powerful kingdom of Eyeo, or Haiho or
+Hio, which once<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>
+commanded Dahomy. Dalzel supposes that Eyeo and Gago were the same.
+According to Bowditch, Hio lies in about 8½° N. Lat. and 4½° E.
+Long. The people of Acca, or Akim, on the coast of Guinea, carried
+on a great trade to Tonowah, Gago, and Meczara, and the frontiers
+of Acca extended north to those of Tonowah. (<em>Leyden’s</em>
+Africa.) From the Report of Sir George Collier, printed by order of
+the House of Commons in June 1820, we learn that Dahomy at this day
+carries on a great trade with Gago. The territories of this kingdom
+in early times, no doubt, were of considerable extent, and
+comprehended several adjoining kingdoms and states, which are now
+become independent or subject to other powerful neighbours, such as
+Dahomy. Gago, in the days of Leo, who visited it, was bounded on
+the west by Melli and on the east by Guber.</p>
+
+<p>Eastward of Gago lay the kingdom of Guber, 300 Arabic (370
+British) miles distant from the former capital. “Between the two
+kingdoms lay a vast desert, much destitute of water, for it is
+distant from the Niger 40 miles. Guber is environed with high
+mountains, and containeth many villages, peopled with shepherds.
+There is abundance of cattle, great and small. The capital
+contained 6000 families, amongst whom were all kinds of merchants.
+At the inundation of the Niger all the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_44">[44]</span> fields in this region are overflowed, and
+then the inhabitants cast their seed into the water only.”
+(<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 829.) The position of Guber, we are
+enabled to fix with considerable precision. According to Bowditch,
+p. 211, Guber, or Goobur, is 10 days journey from the Niger through
+the territories of Yaoora, and, skirting the eastern limits of the
+kingdom of Zamfra or Zamfara, and in the direct road from Yaoora to
+Cashna. From Goobur to the latter place is a journey of eight days,
+and “<em>across a great river</em>.” From the accounts which Mr.
+Ritchie obtained at Mourzook, Guber was the first place in the road
+from Cashna to Timbuctoo, and Zamfra the next. (<em>Quarterly
+Review</em>, May, 1820.) These accounts correspond very exactly
+with Leo, and shew that Guber, a country environed with hills, is
+situated near the eastern river or the Gir, for on a river it is
+situated, being inundated completely during the floods. Leo has, in
+this instance, mistaken the one river for the other; but which, the
+authority of Bowditch and Ritchie enables us to correct. By looking
+at the map, and attending to the future narrative, we will
+perceive, that a <em>desert</em>, or bare mountainous district,
+does, according to Leo, lie westward of the Niger, and in the
+direction of Gago.</p>
+
+<p>The great province of Cano, certainly the once famous empire of
+Ghana, is, according to Leo, “500<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_45">[45]</span> <em>miles eastward of the river Niger</em>.
+Here is abundance of corn, rice, and cotton; the inhabitants are
+partly herdsmen, and partly husbandmen. Here are also many deserts
+and <em>wild woody mountains</em>, containing many springs of
+water. In the woods are plenty of wild citrons and lemons. In the
+midst of the province is the capital of the same name. The walls
+and houses are built of chalk. The inhabitants are a <em>civil
+people</em>, and rich merchants. The king <em>was formerly of great
+puissance</em>, and had mighty troops of horsemen at his command.”
+In the days of Leo, it paid tribute to Izchia (Timbuctoo.
+<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 829.) Speaking of Ghana, Edrisi,
+says, “that the palace was founded in 510 (A.D. 1132.) No other
+king has so many captains, who, every morning, come to his house
+<em>on horseback</em>. He has abundance of rich ornaments and
+horses. He has many troops, who march each with their colours under
+his royal banner, &amp;c. In Ghana are two cities, situated on the
+two opposite shores of what they called a fresh water sea; and it
+is the largest, most populous, and wealthiest, in all the negro
+countries.” There is no difficulty in recognizing, in the Cano of
+Leo, the Ghana of Edrisi. Four hundred years, however, had greatly
+changed its fortunes and splendour. The distance of Cano from the
+Niger, as placed by Leo, is, perhaps, too much; yet, if he
+calculates the distance actually travelled,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_46">[46]</span> his error cannot be great. According to
+Bowditch, p. 212, Kano is in the direct road from Yaoora to Bornou,
+and 28 days journey from the former. Bornou, he says, is 52 days
+journey from Yaoora. From the accounts which Mr. Ritchie received,
+Cano is 12 days journey west from Bornou, (the capital,) and
+situated upon the great river, which passes half a day’s journey
+south of the latter. This river is called Tshadi. (<em>Quarterly
+Review</em>, May, 1820.) From this account, Cano would be 40
+journeys (Bowditch makes it only 28) from the Niger, which, at 14
+miles per day, is 560 geographical miles, corresponding very
+accurately with the distance as given by Leo in Arabic miles.</p>
+
+<p>The great point established by these authorities, is the
+existence of Cano or Ghanah upon a great river, <em>but not upon
+the Niger</em>, and the <em>wild woody mountains</em>, with many
+springs of water, with the abundance of corn, rice, and cotton,
+herdsmen, and husbandmen, all shew a country very different from
+what has been supposed, and one where rivers must increase, not
+decrease.</p>
+
+<p>Cassena, or Kashna, according to Leo, is full of mountains and
+dry fields, which, notwithstanding, yield great store of barley and
+mill-seed (supposed Indian and Guinea corn.) The inhabitants, when
+he visited it, were rude, and dwelt in forlorn cottages. By a
+mistake, Cassena is placed east of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_47">[47]</span> Cano. This, however, is not the fact.
+Bowditch, Ritchie, and various other authorities, shew it is west
+of Cano. Lucas places it about five days journey north from the
+great river, and in this Bowditch nearly agrees; but from the
+accounts obtained by Ritchie, Kashna was upon a river, there named
+Gulbe, and as broad as from the gate of Tripoli to the Bazaar in
+the sands, or <em>one-third of a mile</em>. (<em>Quarterly
+Review</em>, May, 1820.) Perhaps this may be a tributary stream,
+descending from the northward, and the mountains about to be
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>Agadez is enumerated as a kingdom by Leo, but it is so well
+known, that we shall pass it over in this place. The southern parts
+were inhabited by shepherds and herdsmen. Agadez was said to be
+distant from Cano about 160 leagues. The kingdom of Zegzeg,
+mentioned by Leo, is about 150 miles from Cassena, and its
+south-east parts border upon Cano. The inhabitants are rich, and
+have great traffic into other nations. Their houses are built like
+the houses of Cassena. The fields abound with water, and are
+exceedingly fruitful. Some parts of the country are plain and some
+mountainous. <em>The mountains are exceedingly cold</em>, but the
+plains are intolerably hot. Because they can hardly endure the
+sharpness of the winter, they kindle great fires in the midst of
+their houses, laying the coals thereof under their high bed-steads,
+and so<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> betake
+themselves to sleep.” (<em>Purchas</em>, vol. ii. p. 830.) This
+country appears to be situated in about 19° or 20° of north
+latitude, and corresponds very nearly with the position of the
+Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. The excessive degree of cold shews
+the great height of the mountains, and lays before us these
+interior parts of Africa, under very different features indeed to
+those we have been called upon to behold. From these mountains
+numerous and powerful streams certainly flow, and must take their
+course southward. Accordingly, in the maps by Ortelius in 1570, and
+others of a latter date, various rivers are represented as
+descending in this direction, and forming a junction with the
+Niger. From the accounts obtained by Ritchie, Zegzeg lay in the
+road from Kashna to Timbuctoo, and west of Nyffe. (<em>Quarterly
+Review</em>, May, 1820.) If so, then it is several degrees farther
+to the southward, and, from the degree of cold mentioned, the
+height of the mountains must be still greater. Though the
+boundaries mentioned by Leo are not sufficiently clear, yet, being
+in this instance supported by other authorities, the position given
+is, perhaps, the safest to rely on. Yet, if Leo is correct, that
+Zegzeg touches southward upon Zamfra, it must be more southerly
+than the Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. According to Ledyard,
+Zamfra lay to the east of Kashna. From<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_49">[49]</span> Bowditch, page 211, it would appear to lie
+S.W. of Kassena; and Leo says Zamfra borders eastward upon Zezgeg;
+in which case, the position as given to Ritchie, would appear to be
+the most correct. Amongst such conflicting testimony it is
+difficult to be perfectly accurate. Zamfra was, in the days of Leo,
+inhabited by a rustical people, subject to Timbuctoo. Their fields
+abounded with rice, millet, and cotton.</p>
+
+<p>The kingdom of Guangara, according to Leo, adjoineth
+south-westerly upon Zamfra, and eastward it had the kingdom of
+Bornou. From Bowditch, p. 212, we find that this is the case; for
+there seems no reason to doubt that Oongooroo is the Guangara of
+Leo. South of this country lay a region greatly abounding in gold.
+From the accounts given by Leo of their mode of travelling thither,
+and mules being the chief beasts of burthen, it is evident that the
+country was exceedingly mountainous and rugged. Guangara, there is
+the best reason to believe, is the Vancara of the early Arabian
+geographers. This country, according to Edrisi, was “famous for the
+excellency and abundance of its gold,” and, according to
+Ibn-al-Vardi, it was “the country of gold and aromatics.” The Nile
+surrounded it on three sides, and, after the inundation subsided,
+the gold was found in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>
+abundance. They called it an island, and said it was 300 miles in
+length, and 150 miles in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>The large province of Bornou, according to Leo, extended
+eastward from Guangara 500 miles, till it reached the limits of
+Gaogo. It (that is Bornou) is distant, says he, from the fountain
+(lake) of Niger almost 150 miles. This distance agrees very nearly
+with the Lake Caudee, or Fittre. The south part adjoineth the
+Desert of Seu, and the north part stretcheth to that Desert which
+extends toward Barca. The monarch was very powerful, and had
+frequent wars with a powerful people south of the Desert of Seu.
+The position of Bornou, as here given, is we know sufficiently
+accurate. Leo clearly brings the river, which passes through it
+from the eastward, and from the Lake Fittre. Beyond that he had no
+accurate idea of the Misselad to the S.E. though he states it was
+reported that the Niger really rose in the Desert of Seu, (that is
+S.E. of Lake Fittre,) while others said that it was derived from
+Nilus, which, after disappearing for a space, at last burst up in
+the Lake mentioned. From the accounts received by Ritchie, we learn
+that the capital of Bornou is half a day’s journey north of the
+great river. The port of the city is called Gambarou, where there
+are the remains of castles and houses formerly inhabited by
+Christians,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>
+(<em>Quart. Rev.</em> May, 1820,) the refugees, no doubt, who
+sought shelter in the interior of Africa from the fury of the early
+Mahommedan conquerors.</p>
+
+<p>Gaogo and Nubia are the next kingdoms enumerated by Leo. But,
+regarding these, nothing remarkable is stated, and it is sufficient
+here to state, that in those parallels of latitude, they extended
+from the confines of Bornou to the Nile. All these kingdoms Leo
+visited, and, in the features of the country, manners and customs
+of the inhabitants, and in the trade and productions of each of
+them, he could not be mistaken. Therefore his information is
+valuable; and we shall see, as we proceed, that modern authority
+bears him out in most of his leading facts.</p>
+
+<p>One thing is plain, from the consideration of all these ancient
+authorities, that the interior of Northern Africa is traversed by
+many mighty rivers, and is also filled with stupendous mountains.
+Every one of these authorities also agree in the westerly course of
+the rivers which rise westward of Darfur, and that the great stream
+which absorbs the whole of them is a distinct river from the
+Egyptian Nile.</p>
+
+<p>Their confusion regarding the Gir and the Niger being the same,
+or one stream, we can clear up and account for. For these reasons I
+have dwelt upon this part of my subject longer than was at first
+intended. In his account of the great natural features<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> of a country, such as rivers,
+mountains, lakes, inundated roads, or dry deserts, an Arab cannot
+be mistaken, and his authority is a guide sufficiently safe. In his
+names of places, in his bearings and distances, it is very
+different, and it is there that in following him great caution is
+necessary. These distances and bearings are, and become so
+different,—as their journeys are undertaken by the slow, unwieldy
+caravan, the saint begging his way on foot, the single unencumbered
+traveller, the messenger urging his way on horseback, or the Moor
+or Arab mounted on his camel or fleet dromedary—these are so
+different, that unless each mode is specifically mentioned, there
+is no possibility of approximating the truth but by a careful
+attention to, and comparing a variety of them with each other. The
+distance also from place to place is frequently calculated from
+capital to capital, sometimes from the capital of one state to the
+confines of another; sometimes the name of the capital is placed
+for the name of the kingdom, and the name of the kingdom for the
+name of the capital; and sometimes both or either are named after
+some particular thing for which they may have become famous. The
+name of a river is also frequently substituted for a country, and
+the name of a country for a river in it. Without being able to
+determine the distances<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_53">[53]</span> accurately, it is consequently impossible to
+fix the bearings correctly, even where these are faithfully taken,
+which, however, are very seldom found to be the case, particularly
+when not upon any one of the four chief points of the compass.</p>
+
+<p>These things, together with the ignorance of the Arabic and
+Negro languages amongst those who have hitherto attempted to
+explore, or endeavoured to obtain information concerning Northern
+Africa, have been the sole cause why the geography of the interior
+has remained so long a mystery. As those are understood, however,
+the other is elucidated, and as those are rendered clear, the
+geography of Africa, like the geography of every other quarter of
+the globe, appears simple and natural. Thus, for instance,
+Belad-el-Sudan signifies all Africa south of the Great Desert
+inhabited by negroes, and, therefore, the <em>Sea of Sudan</em> can
+be no other than that sea on its southern shores, or the great
+Gulph of Guinea. Bahr-el-Gazalle is not a river, but a fine valley
+adapted to pasturage. Houssa, according to Horneman, is not a name
+applied to a particular district, but a great portion of Africa
+north of the Niger, comprehending many kingdoms and states.
+Wangara, there is good reason to believe, besides being the name of
+a province, is also a term applied to all Africa south of the
+Niger, if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> not also
+the countries between it and the great Desert; in short, of all the
+country through which rivers flow, in contra-distinction to the
+Zahaara or Great Desert. Such was the explanation given to Mr.
+Hutchison, (<em>see Bowditch, p.</em> 206,) and such the accounts
+given to Mr. Ritchie, (<em>Quart. Rev.</em> May, 1820,) as well as
+other authorities. Dar Kulla, or rather Deaar Kulla, signifies a
+country full of houses, (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 479.) and
+the same authority, pages 444 and 487, informs us, that Bahar
+Kulla, or Bahar Kulha, signifies the sea altogether, or an alluvial
+country.</p>
+
+<p>In like manner, all the names applied to the river we call the
+Niger, are used to distinguish it from the Nile of Egypt. The
+latter is invariably called the “Neel Shem,” or the “Neel Masser,”
+while the Niger is termed “Neel-el-Abeed,” (Nile of Slaves,) “Neel
+Assudan,” (Nile of Sudan,) and “Neel-el-Kabeer,” or great Nile.
+(<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny, p.</em> 443, and <em>Transactions of
+African Association</em>, p. 222.) Regarding the different seas
+which surround Africa, the Western Ocean is called Bahar Kabeer, or
+Bahar Addolum, the Great Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. The term
+<em>Bahar el Mâleh</em>, is applied generally to a salt sea; but
+the term, says Mr. Jackson, and only term applied by the Moors to
+the Mediterranean Sea, is the “<em>Bahar Segrer</em>,”<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> literally the Small Sea,
+(<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 489.)</p>
+
+<p>Bearing these things in mind, we shall, without much difficulty,
+clear up many points apparently very confused in African geography.
+That the Niger enters the Atlantic Ocean we have many direct
+testimonies. Although Ptolemy was unacquainted with the outlets of
+the river, he evidently believed that it had one in that direction.
+Edrisi and Ibn-al-Vardi distinctly state that such is the case; and
+unless the transcriber, or translators of Leo, have supplied a word
+which he never wrote, namely, the “Ocean <em>Sea</em>,” that
+celebrated traveller, who made very diligent inquiries of the
+merchants who came to Timbuctoo from those coasts, states the same
+thing. Mr. Horneman was very pointedly informed that the Niger ran
+southward of Nyffe till it joined the Bahar Kulla, or Bahar Kulha,
+and Park was told the same thing. Windhus was informed at Morocco,
+in 1721, that “the Niger, or Black’s River, <em>had a passage into
+the Southern Sea</em>.” According to the Report of the Committee of
+Council, Mr. Barnes states, that “the Niger discharges itself into
+a large lake; that he has heard from the black traders that there
+are white inhabitants on the borders of that lake—that they dress
+in the style of the Barbary Moors, and wear turbans, but do not
+speak Arabic.” There is scarcely any room<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_56">[56]</span> to doubt that this alludes to the Portuguese,
+and other European settlements on the coast of Guinea towards
+Benin.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these authorities, El Hage Shabeeny says most pointedly,
+that he “always understood the Niger run into the sea, <em>the Salt
+Sea, or Great Ocean</em>,” on the coast of Genawa, or Guinea.
+(<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 40.) Mr. Beaufoy was informed by
+an intelligent Moor, that “below Ghinea, (that is Genawa, Djenawa,
+or Guinea,) is the sea into which the river of Timbuctoo
+disembogues itself, and that boats <em>went with the stream to</em>
+Ghinea.” Mr. Grey Jackson, who had received much information
+concerning the interior of Africa, states, that it is “<em>the
+general African opinion</em>, that the Neel-el-Abeed (Niger)
+discharges itself into the Salt Sea,” (Bahar el Mâleh,) which he
+clearly and unequivocally shews is a different sea from the
+Mediterranean. (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 518 and 489.) The
+Moors told Bowditch and Hutchison at Coomassie, that the Niger ran
+into the Bahar le Malee, or Baramela, (page 205,
+<em>Bowditch</em>,) which Mr. Jackson, page 489, clearly shews is a
+corruption of the Arabic words Bahar el Mâleh, or the Salt Sea. By
+reports collected for the African Association, from 1790 to 1798,
+they were told that “the Niger was lost in the sands to the south
+of Timbuctoo,” which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span>
+could only mean the sea-shore on the Bight of Benin. The natives on
+the coasts of Benin and Biafra, assert that all the rivers in the
+Delta come from one great river which descends from the north.
+(<em>Robertson’s Notes</em>, and other authorities.) As these
+sheets were preparing for the press, a further confirmation of this
+important point was received in the account given by a sailor named
+Scot, belonging to Liverpool, who was wrecked about Cape Nun, and
+carried into slavery by the Arabs of the Desert. While in this
+state, he was carried, along with a tribe, across the Desert into
+Sudan, and with them he crossed Lake Dibbie, or what he calls
+“Bahar Tee-eb,” the sea of fresh water, or the sea where boats can
+go. There he was told by some negro boatmen who rowed them over the
+Lake, that, <em>very far to the south there “lay a great salt water
+sea; that the one they were on run into it;</em> that there was no
+end to it; that there were plenty of <em>Saffina el kabeer</em>
+(large ships,) upon it, and that they called it <em>Bahar el
+Kabeer</em>,” that is, the great sea. (<em>Edin. Philosoph.
+Journ.</em> No. 7.) As we proceed, other authorities will be
+adduced.</p>
+
+<p>With these general observations, I shall proceed without further
+remark to the chief object in view, namely, to trace the course,
+and to point out the termination of the Niger and its tributary
+streams. In<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> following
+out this subject I shall endeavour to be as concise as possible.
+The best authorities also are taken as my guide. “The Niger,” said
+Park in the last dispatch that he wrote which has reached Britain,
+“can terminate no where else but in the sea.” In this he was
+correct. In the sea it must and does terminate.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span><a id=
+"c2"></a>CHAP. II.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Joliba, two branches, source western, ditto
+eastern — River Zamma; course till junction — Snowy mountains —
+Balia — Lake Clonia — River Guinola — Kaniaba — Bammakoo, Magnitude
+of Niger — Rapids — Marraboo — Yamina — Sego — Jinnë — Ba Nimma —
+Ba Maniana — Lake Dibbie — River Gozen Zair — High Mountains —
+Walet — Course of Niger north-east — Ba Moriaca — Jinbala — Rakbara
+— Kabra — Timbuctoo — Bahar-el-Ahmar — Course of ditto — Houssa —
+Magnitude of Niger at Timbuctoo — Sidi Hamed — Course of river
+south-east — Mountains — Kaffo — Rocks — River bursts through a
+chain of mountains — Exceeding high ridge to south-west — Cabi, a
+Ferry — Yaoora — Great River from east may join here — Boussa —
+Park’s death — Cause of it — Wauwa — Gange — Nyffe — Wassanah —
+Magnitude of Wassanah — Magnitude of Niger or Zadi — Course to
+“Great Water” — Junction with the Sea, and where — General
+observations.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">T<span class="sc">he</span> Niger, or Joliba,
+seems to be formed, in its early course, by an eastern and a
+western branch. The latter rises about 80 miles south-east of
+Timbo, in the woods between Kouranko and Soliman. This spot is in
+about 9° north latitude, and 10° west longitude. The distance from
+the source of the Senegal is about 110 miles, and from Sierra Leone
+not above 150 miles. The mountains hereabouts are said to be very
+high, and are also said to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_60">[60]</span> be perpetually covered with snow. From its
+source the stream flows north-east. In Balia, above Bourré, a
+frontier town of Kankan, and celebrated for the abundance and
+superior fineness of its gold, the river first becomes navigable.
+Here the merchants from Foota Diallon embark in their journey to
+Sego and Timbuctoo, which occupies them four months. At Tankarari,
+below Bourré, the river is already “two gun-shots broad.” Kankan is
+15 days’ journey west from Maniana, the capital of which is called
+Tokoro. (<em>Mollien</em>, p. 301-303, and others.)</p>
+
+<p>Continuing its course north-east, this branch, in about 11°
+north latitude and 6° 45′ west longitude, joins a mightier stream
+flowing from the east. This branch, there is good grounds to
+believe, rises in the snowy mountains eastward of Kong. Taking a
+circular course, it flows southward beyond the parallel of 9° north
+latitude, from whence it runs first west and then north-west and
+north, till its junction with the western branch. Nineteen days’
+journey (190 miles,) north north-west of Coomassie, where it is
+crossed by travellers from Ashantee, in the route by Kong to Jinnë,
+it is said to be half-a mile broad, and <em>running westward</em>.
+It is called by the natives “Coomba,” and by the Moors “Zamma.”
+(<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 182.) The French maps, constructed in 1756,
+by Robert de Vagondy for<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_61">[61]</span> the King of France, lay down this branch
+tolerably accurate. In the parallels and parts mentioned are the
+sources of the Niger eastward of Kong, viz. in 10° north latitude,
+and from 1½° to 2¼° west longitude. The mountains must be of a
+stupendous height, for the natives state that the cold is very
+severe in Oalla to the north-west of Inta, and the hills in those
+parts covered with snow. (<em>Robertson’s Notes</em>, p. 182.)
+After this junction, the Joliba continues to flow north-east,
+either through or along by the frontiers of Mandingo, and must be a
+powerful stream. A native of Mandingo told Tuckey, that his country
+“lay on a river <em>as broad as the Zaire</em>, (half a British
+mile,) but full of rocks.” (<em>Tuckey</em>, p. 141.) Travellers
+from Kong to the Rio Pongos state, that in their journey west they
+pass one very large river, which can be no other but the Niger in
+this part of his course. (<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 210.) At Tembo,
+Messrs. Watt and Winterbotham were informed that thirty days’
+journey from thence, in <em>the route to Sego</em>, the “road lay
+along a great water, <em>across which the eye could not reach</em>,
+and which was sweet and good to the taste.” It is by no means
+improbable that this <em>great water</em> is a lake formed by the
+Niger at the confluence of the two branches. The features of the
+country render such a thing very probable. The mountains on either
+hand are of a stupendous height.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_62">[62]</span> To the westward Mollien found the east wind,
+from having swept over them, excessively cold and piercing, (page
+292.) These are features altogether new and unexpected in the
+geography of tropical Africa. Amidst such mountains the rivers must
+soon become very large, such as we find amidst the Andes of South
+America, where the Beni, after a course of only 300 miles, is found
+to be two miles broad.</p>
+
+<p>While preparing these sheets for the press, chance threw in my
+way a copy of the third part of the Geography of Joannis Bleau,
+printed at Amsterdam in 1662. In the general map of Africa, he lays
+down a large lake in north latitude 10°, and east longitude 10°
+from Ferro, which corresponds very nearly with the place we have
+been considering. From this lake (situated north-east from Sierra
+Leone) issues the river Guinola, (perhaps Guinbala, another name
+for the Joliba,) which flows first in a north-west, and afterwards
+in a northerly direction, and then north-easterly, till it
+approaches near the Niger, from which river a branch descending
+joins the latter, and from the united streams are formed the rivers
+Senegal, Gambia, and Rio Grande. The latter features we know to be
+incorrect, though it was believed to be the true delineation in
+those days; but the lake and circular course of the Guinola
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> the north are
+curious features. These were no doubt founded upon positive
+information, but made to bend to the theory then in vogue.
+Mandingo, he states, lay between 9° and 11° north latitude, which
+agrees very well with modern information. The capital city, Sango,
+was 100 leagues from Cape Palmas; and, he adds, “Multorum in
+Mandingæ regione fluminum ortus existet, quæ varias ingressa vias,
+tandem Gambeæ amni miscentur.” (P. 122.)</p>
+
+<p>The Stachirus of Ptolemy is generally supposed to be the Gambia,
+or more probably the Rio Grande. According to this authority, the
+Stachirus in 11° north latitude, and 17° west longitude from Ferro,
+makes the lake Clonia. The reader, by turning to the <a href=
+"#map1">map,</a> will perceive this position given; for the lake
+Clonia corresponds with the junction of the two rivers, and the
+lake which, in all probability, is there to be found at this day.
+Ptolemy has mistaken this branch of the Niger, which he certainly
+had heard of, for the Stachirus, the sources of which he
+accordingly carried too far to the eastward; nor was his error to
+be wondered at, when we find geographers so near our own day
+continuing the same error. The extended course of the Stachirus of
+Ptolemy has only to be bent northward in these parallels and
+meridians to direct its waters to the Niger; and we then have from
+Ptolemy the upper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span>
+course and eastern branch of this important stream. These are very
+curious and important circumstances. The west coast of Africa is
+laid down by that early geographer several degrees too much east of
+Ferro, which occasions the great contraction of all the western
+parts and rivers, and the consequent errors in his longitudes in
+all the upper course of the Niger, and about the sources of the
+Senegal, Gambia, &amp;c. The great southern branch of the Niger he
+has, in error, evidently joined to these latter streams. The
+Arabian geographers also had no idea of the extent of Africa to the
+south-west; but conceived that the continent stretched due south,
+or rather to the eastward of south from the Straits of Gibraltar.
+Hence the confusion into which they were led regarding the remote
+parts of western Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing its course north-east along the eastern base of those
+hills which separate its waters from those of the Ba Fing, and
+having passed Kankary (perhaps the Kankan of Mollien) and Kaniaba,
+the Niger reaches Bammakoo, situate in 12° 48′ north latitude, and
+3° 40′ west longitude. Here Park first fell in with it in his
+second journey; and he says, that at this place it was larger than
+either the Senegal or the Gambia, near the sea. The breadth of the
+stream is one mile. It was then in flood, but <em>did not overflow
+its banks</em>. Thus, though<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_65">[65]</span> the depth was no doubt greatly increased, the
+breadth could not be increased in proportion. A short distance
+below Bammakoo, the river passes over several rapids, which fill
+its bed during 30 miles of its course. Here the stream is two miles
+broad. These rapids are occasioned by a chain of hills extending
+south-eastwards of Kong. Three of these rapids are more formidable
+than the remainder. The velocity of the water, said Park, when
+descending the stream at this place, was such “<em>as to make me
+sigh</em>.” Notwithstanding this, the river can still be navigated
+past these ledges of rocks; for Park informs us, that the King of
+Bambarra’s, and other canoes, pass this place in their voyage up
+the river, with slaves to the great slave markets of Kaniaba and
+Kankary. The magnitude of the Niger at Bammakoo shews, not only
+that its sources must be more remote than they have hitherto been
+supposed, but that it must collect its tributes from a much more
+extended range of country than the mere extension of one branch to
+the south-west. The Ba Nimma and Ba Maniana, united, and after a
+course of perhaps 300 miles, are only half as large as the Niger.
+The Senegal, at its mouth, and after a course of 1000 miles, is not
+so large as the Niger at Bammakoo. These rivers afford us a scale
+to determine, that the sources of the Niger must be far removed
+from Bammakoo,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> (much
+further than 2° of latitude, the distance hitherto allowed,) and
+that its waters must be collected from a wide range of country,
+extending to the south-west, south, and eastward.</p>
+
+<p>From Bammakoo the Niger bends his course in an east-north-east
+direction, flowing in a clear navigable stream. High land extends
+to the north below Bammakoo. In the above direction the Niger
+passes Yamina, Sego, Sansanding, and Silla, all situate in the
+kingdom of Bambarra. Bending its course more to the north-east, the
+Niger approaches Jinnë, and soon after lake Dibbie, or the dark
+lake, called also Bahar Dehebbie, the sea of water abounding in
+gold; Bahar Tibber, the sea of gold dust; and Bahar Tee-eb, the
+fresh water sea; without doubt, the <em>Negrites Palus</em> of
+Ptolemy. This lake extends from south-west to north-east, and is
+described to be of great magnitude. Canoes, in passing it, lose
+sight of land for a whole day. From Scot’s account its breadth may
+be about 60 miles, and depth 20 fathoms. (<em>Edin. Phil.
+Journ.</em> No. 7.) Either near the lake, or running directly into
+the lake, the Niger receives from the south the Ba Nimma and Ba
+Maniana, in an united stream about half as large as the Niger. The
+Ba Nimma rises south of Marraboo, and comes from the neighbourhood
+of what is properly called Kong. Its course<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_67">[67]</span> will be about 300 miles. The Ba Maniana
+rises more to the eastward, and has a shorter course.</p>
+
+<p>About the entrance into lake Dehebbie, the Niger, we may almost
+certainly state, receives a very considerable branch from the
+north-west. According to Sidi Hamed, at Wablet, (Walet,) a town
+situate a little to the south of the desert, and about 240 miles
+west of Timbuctoo, there passes a river which flows eastward. Its
+breadth at that town was about 250 yards. It was called by the
+Negroes “<em>Gozen Zair</em>,” but by the Moors “<em>el Wad
+Tenij</em>.” The mountains, to the south-west of Wablet, were
+represented by Sidi Hamed to be “at a great distance,” and as high
+as Mount Atlas, near Suse, or 12,000 feet above the level of the
+sea, but not caped with snow. Amongst these the river no doubt has
+its rise. In the course of this river,—and that there is such a
+river Sidi Hamed could not be mistaken, because he travelled, in
+his route to Timbuctoo, during the space of four days along its
+banks, and through a country so hilly and woody that his party were
+forced to turn off directly north to the confines of the desert, in
+order to travel with greater freedom. In his route from Benown and
+Jarras to Sego, Mr. Park passed no river running west; but, as he
+proceeded south-east, he passed numerous small streams, all bending
+their course north-east. These, to the eastward, must join
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> river mentioned
+by Sidi Hamed in its course to the east; and the united streams,
+forming a large river, must join the Niger. And, if the accounts
+given by Scot are correct, as there seems no just grounds to doubt,
+that in his course across the desert to lake Dehebbie he crossed no
+river, then the “Gozen Zair” of Sidi Hamed must join the Niger
+south-west of Scot’s route to the lake, and consequently about the
+confluence of the Niger with the lake. The stream from Wablet to
+this point would have a course exceeding 240 geographic miles in
+length. It is very remarkable, that Ptolemy brings the chief stream
+of the Niger in this very direction, and in this manner, to the
+Palus Negrites. From this lake Mount Mandrus lay north-west. It
+appears also extremely probable, that the river in question was the
+Nile of Batouta, and that the Joliba was his river Sansera. From
+the direction in which he travelled, the Gozen Zair must have been
+the first he met with after leaving the desert. In this point of
+view also, the Joliba would be the river, along which, according to
+Leo, the kingdom of Melli extended 300 miles. On these important
+subjects, however, I would not wish to give a decided opinion. One
+way or the other, it makes no material error in the grand
+geographical features of interior Africa, which it is my object to
+delineate. It is a curious circumstance, and deserves to be
+noticed,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> that
+D’Anville, in his early maps, lays down a river issuing from lake
+Maberia, or Dibbie, and flowing in the above direction to join the
+Senegal. The course he has evidently mistaken from the usual
+misapprehension of Arabian information. Few people had better
+information than he had; and he, no doubt, had received positive
+information that there was a river in those parts.</p>
+
+<p>Issuing from the lake Dehebbie, (the position of which will
+afterwards be more particularly noticed,) the Niger keeps a
+northerly course, and soon after receives from the south the Ba
+Moriaca, which is certainly a considerable river. The junction, in
+all probability, takes place at no great distance from the
+north-east corner of the lake, on the south-east side of which is a
+chain of hills. The junction of the Ba Moriaca is a very remarkable
+feature in the delineation of Ptolemy; and his description
+corresponds in a surprising manner with modern accounts. “On the
+south,” says he, “the Niger receives one branch above
+(<em>supra</em>) Daradum, <em>nigh to the two positions</em>, 21°
+east longitude, 17° north latitude, and 21° west longitude, 13° 30′
+north latitude (<em>Tab. Quart. Af.</em> cap. 6.) Here not only the
+junction of the Ba Moriaca, but also the junction of the Ba Nimma,
+Maniana, and Joliba (if it is true that all these are united before
+entering the lake) on the south, and also the great northern
+bearing of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> course
+of the river at this place is very plainly marked. The junction of
+both being laid down in the same meridian, but nigh to two places,
+distant 3° 30′ latitude from each other, shews this in a very
+striking manner. His longitude of 21° east also corresponds, when
+corrected, nearly with the meridian of Greenwich. All the parts we
+have here considered are represented as being very widely and
+deeply flooded by the Niger during the rains. From the junction of
+so many rivers, it is obvious that such must be the case. Still
+keeping his north-east course, the Niger passes Rakbara, and soon
+after it turns suddenly east, and, in this direction, approaches
+Kabra, the port of the celebrated city of Timbuctoo. The great
+curve which the Niger makes in its course from Jinnë to Kabra is
+well known. It is called “<em>el Kosie Neel</em>,” the arch or
+curve of the Nile. (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 439.) That such
+is the case, is also very obvious from the time occupied in
+travelling betwixt these places, according as the journey is
+performed on land or by water. By the latter, it is a voyage of 20
+days, but by the former only a journey of 12 days.
+(<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 193.)</p>
+
+<p>In the present maps, the position of both Lake Dehebbie and the
+city of Timbuctoo seem evidently to be placed too far west.
+Bammakoo, we have seen, stands in 3° 40′ west longitude. From
+thence,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> or Marraboo,
+which is a little lower down, Park was altogether 62 hours in
+passing down the stream from the latter place to Sansanding. During
+this period the river was in flood, and the force of the current
+carried the canoe downwards at the rate of fully five miles per
+hour. This would give a distance of 320 miles. Throwing off 120 for
+the windings of the stream, leaves 200 made good in horizontal
+distance to Sansanding. From this place to Lake Dehebbie is a
+voyage of six days by water, when the river is low, which, taking
+at only 100 miles made good for horizontal distance, would place
+the Lake in the meridian of 1° 20′ east longitude. Jinnë is two
+days sail above the lake: from the former, through the Lake to
+Timbuctoo, is 20 days passage, which, at the most moderate
+computation, taking into consideration the difference of latitude,
+would place Timbuctoo in 3° east longitude, and 16° 30′ north
+latitude, if not still farther east.</p>
+
+<p>Below Lake Dehebbie, or Dibbie, is the kingdom of Jinbala, said
+to be an island by some authorities; but this is probably wrong.
+The Arabs use the words isle and peninsula as synonymous terms, and
+call the land between the junction of streams, or the separation of
+their branches, islands. Of this numerous instances might be given.
+Besides, Bowditch (p. 193,) states pointedly, and upon good
+authority, that Jinbala was not an island, but a town<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> on the northern bank of the
+river. All this country is greatly flooded during the inundation.
+This may probably be heightened by the junction of the Ba Moriaca
+with the Niger, and which stream joining, as it probably does do,
+the Joliba soon after the latter leaves the Lake, might, in the
+Arabic idiom, occasion the appellation of island to be applied to
+the country between the two rivers and above their junction.</p>
+
+<p>Timbuctoo, the great emporium of the trade of Central Africa, is
+12 Arabic (14½ British) miles from the Niger. Descending from the
+north-east, a great river passes very near the city, and joins the
+Niger at Kabra. This is a remarkable feature in the geography of
+Ptolemy, which seems borne out by modern accounts. We have already
+shewn that the “<em>Negira metropolis</em>” of that geographer
+stood where Timbuctoo now stands. Though the existence of this
+river is doubted by some, still the authorities which mention it
+are so explicit, that there seems no sufficient reason for
+disbelieving them. Leo Africanus states, that Timbuctoo was
+situated near “a branch of the Niger.” Batouta, as we have seen, in
+his journey homeward, crossed a river near the confines of the
+Desert, and north-east of Timbuctoo, called “Bahar-el-Ahmar,” the
+very name by which the river in question is known at Timbuctoo.
+D’Anville lays down a river passing Timbuctoo,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_73">[73]</span> and descending from the north-east. Adams
+says it was called La Mar Zarah, which Burkhardt and others rightly
+conjecture is a corruption of the Arabic words “Bahar-el-Ahmar el
+Zahaara,” or <em>the Red River of the Desert</em>. The river,
+according to Adams, approaches within a short distance of the city
+on its south-east side, and is about three quarters of a mile wide.
+When low, the water is brackish. Sidi Hamed says, that one hour’s
+ride on a camel south of the city, brought the traveller to the
+great river, and after two hours’ ride, that they came to the great
+river Zolibib, or Niger. Two miles south of Timbuctoo, the
+Bahar-el-Ahmar passes between two mountains, and is contracted to
+half a mile in breadth. (<em>Adams</em>.) The water is said to be
+of a very red colour—hence the name. <em>Bowditch</em>, p. 194,
+says, he was informed that during the rainy season this stream
+overflowed its banks so as to force the inhabitants to retire from
+the suburbs to the centre of the city. Leo also says, that during
+the inundation the waters of the rivers were conveyed in canals to
+water the country.</p>
+
+<p>On this river travellers embark to go to Houssa, a distance of
+about 20 days’ passage according to Bowditch, (p. 196.) On the
+third day after leaving Timbuctoo, you come, says Shabeeny, to
+Mushgreelia, where there is a ferry, and where the traveller
+embarks if he goes by water, or crosses the stream if<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> he goes by land. “If you go this
+way,” says Shabeeny, “you <em>must cross the river before you reach
+Houssa</em>. (p. 38, <em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>.”) This would
+indicate that Timbuctoo lay on the west side of the river. Bowditch
+(p. 196,) gives the same account of the distance to the town where
+the traveller embarks on the river, and he supposes Houssa to be
+east north-east of Timbuctoo. It is obvious that both him and
+Shabeeny speak of a different river from the Niger, which cannot be
+crossed in going from Timbuctoo to Houssa, which latter, all
+accounts agree, is on the north side of the Niger, and distant from
+it. Between Timbuctoo and Houssa, according to Shabeeny, there is a
+great trade carried on by means of this river. “There are more
+boats on it between Mushgreelia and Houssa,” says he, “than between
+Rosetta and Cairo. The boats are like those of Tetuan and Tangier,
+but larger. Its waters are very red and (<em>hellue</em>) sweet, or
+pure. Ferry-boats are numerous on it. The water in the wells near
+it are best after the river has overflowed. Houssa is a journey of
+a day and a half from the south bank of the river.” (P. 38, 39.)
+The wells in the neighbourhood being sweetest after the
+commencement of the inundation, is a proof that the stream flows
+near the confines of the Desert. Adams travelled during ten days,
+at the rate of 18 miles per day, upwards by the side of this river
+in a north-east<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>
+direction before his party struck off north-west to reach Taudeny.
+Sidi Hamed says, that for 20 days’ journey north north-east from
+Timbuctoo, the country is mountainous, populous, and well
+cultivated, and that he passed numerous small streams in that space
+flowing south and west to the great river. Ritchie was informed by
+a schoolmaster at Tripoli, who had been at Timbuctoo, that the
+country, during the space of 15 days’ journey north of that city,
+abounded with provisions and water, and that the Oases of Tuat, 45
+days’ journey north north-east of Timbuctoo, was very fruitful, and
+abounding in grain and water. (<em>Quarterly Rev.</em> May,
+1820.)</p>
+
+<p>In such a country, it is evident that rivers may and must be
+formed. It would be a very remarkable circumstance if all the
+authorities quoted should have been mistaken in this particular.
+The gentleman who found out and examined Adams in London, assured
+the writer of this, that Adams was very particular about his
+bearings, and his reasons for being so were, that, expecting to
+effect his escape, and anxious to return home, he was very careful
+to observe the direction in which he travelled. Adams, in his
+account of Timbuctoo, mentioned that cocoa-nuts were found there.
+This made his narrative to be doubted. Leo Africanus, however,
+mentions that cocoa-nuts grew in the neighbourhood.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> The brackish sandy soil, near
+the Desert, is a country where we may expect such fruit to be
+produced. Whether the river in question is the same as that which
+passes Agadez or not, it is difficult to determine. It is evident
+that it comes from the point of the compass where the mountains
+Usurgala of Ptolemy lay. Bowditch was told that this river ran
+north-east from Timbuctoo—separating soon after, one branch ran
+eastward and one northward, the latter, first to Yahoudee, a place
+of great trade, and from thence to another river called Hotaiba,
+and which river ran towards Tunis. (<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 187.) It
+is curious, that in the map by Ortellius, in 1570, he has a city
+named Yghidi, laid down upon the edge of a lake, in 20° 30′ north
+latitude, and 32° east longitude, from Ferro. It is evidently the
+Yahoudee of Bowditch, who, in the route from Timbuctoo to Fezzan,
+also mentions, as the seventh station on the road, a place called
+<em>Hotailee</em>, named perhaps from the river, or rather the
+river named from the town. In this account, the geographical line
+of the bed of the river is evidently put for the direction in which
+it flows, a circumstance quite common in the narratives given by
+Moorish and Arabian merchants. Separate streams are also here taken
+as one, a circumstance which frequently occurs in the accounts
+obtained from similar sources. No river runs towards Tunis; but a
+stream descends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> from
+the mountains of Eyrè southwards towards Agadez.</p>
+
+<p>The river in question, or the Bahar-el-Ahmar, in all probability
+descends past the neighbourhood of Tuggurt, from the eastern
+boundaries of the Oases of Tuat, from whence it may receive a
+supply of water. That country is represented as well watered, and a
+stream is found at Tuggurt, which may be the Bahar-el-Ahmar, or
+connected with it. Shabeeny says the river near Houssa is much
+narrower than the river at Jinnë. It is sometimes broader than the
+Thames at London, and sometimes narrower; it does not very deeply
+overflow its banks.</p>
+
+<p>There are various accounts of the course of the Niger eastward
+from Timbuctoo. That given by Sidi Hamed, an intelligent Arab, is
+the clearest hitherto received. The whole narrative is extremely
+plain and simple. There is nothing in it to destroy the credibility
+of the author. Other authorities confirm his accounts. In the
+middle course of the river, he is taken as our chief guide. He
+travelled with a caravan consisting of 3000 men, 3000 asses, and
+200 camels, laden with heavy goods. Ten geographic miles is the
+utmost which can be allowed for the horizontal distance made good
+each day, during their progress. In such a country, even this is
+perhaps too much; but this calculation accords very nearly with
+other authorities regarding particular points. This scale is,
+therefore, followed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span>
+in calculating all distances on every route near the Niger, or to
+the southward of it. To the northward, as the country is less
+rugged, 13 miles, on an average, may be allowed as a day’s journey.
+In the countries that are cultivated, this scale will be found
+sufficiently accurate. In the open desert, the length of a day’s
+journey is much greater, and may extend 20 miles.</p>
+
+<p>We have no accurate accounts of the magnitude of the Niger near
+Timbuctoo. Ritchie was informed that it was so broad that a gun
+could not take effect across it. The stream is, in all probability,
+a good deal contracted in these parts. From Kabra, the river called
+here Issa, and also Zolibib, flows in an easterly course for 60
+miles. A very high mountain to the east here bends the course of
+the stream more to the S.E. In this direction, it flows in an open
+majestic stream, through a hilly and woody country, for 150 miles.
+About the middle of the latter bearing, the course of the stream
+declines to the S.W. like the arch of a bow. At this distance from
+Timbuctoo, two “very large towns,” both walled, were seen on its
+southern bank. Many canoes plied on its bosom. On the N.E. side
+rose mountains. For 30 miles farther, the river pursued a winding
+course S.E. About this place is the part where travellers from
+Ashantee and Dagwumba cross the Niger in their route to Houssa.
+According to Bowditch, p. 206. the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_79">[79]</span> ferry must be about 24 days’ journey below
+Timbuctoo, and the stream here about two miles broad. At this place
+the inhabitants begin to be friendly to the king of Wassanah, and
+enemies to the sovereign of Timbuctoo. In this part of its course
+the Niger comes to a very high ridge of mountains, thickly covered
+with trees, and so abrupt and steep, that there is no path between
+the stream and the hill. “<em>It ran against the steep side of the
+mountain</em>,” said Sidi Hamed. From the summit of this ridge,
+“<em>a large chain of high mountains was seen to the
+westward</em>.” In passing through the ridge mentioned, the course
+of the Niger forms an arch, or curve, declining S.W. Six days are
+necessary to cross this chain, which there is no avoiding. Having
+crossed the ridge, the traveller in his S.E. progress, comes to the
+river again, at a place where it is narrow and full of rocks,
+“<em>which dashed the water most dreadfully</em>.” This is no doubt
+the place below Kaffo, mentioned by Amadou Fatouma, (Park’s guide,)
+where rocks in the river had formed it into three channels, through
+one of which, smoother than the others, their canoe passed safely.
+Allowing 6 miles for each day’s journey, this ridge would be 36
+miles in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>From this ridge, the stream continues to flow in a S.E.
+direction for 120 miles. Its windings in this part are numerous,
+which indicates a more level country. To the westward, “<em>high
+mountains<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> are very
+plainly discernible</em>.” From the eastward, in this part of its
+course, flow many small streams, which empty themselves into the
+Niger. This would indicate elevated land at no great distance in
+that quarter. The stream “looked deep,” but “was not very wide.” At
+this distance, 395 miles below Timbuctoo, is a ferry, and in all
+probability it is the celebrated ferry called Yaoora, so well
+known, and so much frequented by all travellers from the countries
+S.W. to the countries N.E. of the Niger. Considering the distance
+and direction that Sidi Hamed had travelled, and considering the
+bearing and distance from Yahndi to this place, as given to Mr.
+Bowditch by various authorities, namely, 42 journeys N.E. the point
+will be found to accord with sufficient accuracy. Here the stream
+is said to be about <em>three miles broad</em>. (<em>Bowditch</em>,
+p. 202.) Near Yaoora, D’Anville and De Lisle, lay down a river as
+joining the Niger on its southern side. For this they, no doubt,
+had good authority. The features of the country also render this
+extremely probable. On this river, and not on the Niger, they
+erroneously lay down Cabi, Yaoora, and Boussa, the first nearest
+the Niger, and the last at the greatest distance from it, but at
+the distances from each other as given by later accounts. At this
+point there seems a want in Sidi Hamed’s narrative. When he says he
+came to a ferry at this point, where he rested seven days,
+it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span> is not said
+whether the ferry was across the Niger, or across a river which
+there joined the Niger on its eastern side. Perhaps Riley never
+thought of asking him the question. It is to be regretted that he
+did not, as it is very probable that a great river from the
+eastward does join the Niger about this place. The reasons for
+thinking that this is the case, will be considered more at large
+hereafter. Sidi Hamed says he saw many canoes crossing the river,
+and though there no doubt was a ferry across the Niger at this
+place, still the ferry he mentioned, might have been one across
+another river which he had to cross in his further progress
+S.E.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding farther down the river, a few observations
+become necessary at this part of the subject. Yaoora, we learn, is
+in the country of Houssa, and the first state of that country on
+the Niger. To the country of Houssa, Amadou Fatouma was engaged to
+conduct Park. Below Kaffo, says he, was Carmassie, below Carmassie,
+was Gormou, and below the latter, was Houssa. At Yaoora they
+reached that country, and at Yaoora, accordingly, this guide left
+the unfortunate traveller. It is very remarkable that Leo
+Africanus, and other Arabian authors, make no mention of Houssa,
+either as a city or a great country. Yet there must be a city of
+that name. All the negroes from the interior make mention of it,
+and speak of it as of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>
+great magnitude. They also talk familiarly about snow in their
+country, which shews the mountainous nature of it, and also the
+great height of these mountains. Bowditch was told by numerous
+authorities that the city of Houssa was situate 17 days’ journey
+(say 220 miles) N.N.E. from the Niger, at the point where we have
+already noticed the travellers from Ashantee, Inta, &amp;c. cross
+the river in their route to it. Hornemann was indeed informed that
+Houssa was the name of an extensive portion of interior Africa,
+eastward of the Niger, and comprehending the kingdoms or provinces
+of Kashna, Daura, Cano, Nora, Nyffe, Cabi, Zamfra, and Guber. Of
+these, Cabi and Nyffe alone touched upon the Niger. These states
+bounded Kashna on the S.W. and South, according to Hornemann. Cabi
+is stated by various authors as being the port of Houssa on the
+Niger. L’Hage Mahommed says that Butoo on the Niger, is the port of
+both Kashna and Houssa. By the port of Houssa, they may mean the
+first city of that country which is reached in the voyage on the
+river upwards from the Sea. The distance of Butoo from Kabra is
+about 46 days’ journey, which would bring it below or beyond
+Yaoora. Eastward of Butoo, L’Hage Mahommed says that the navigation
+of the river is interrupted by falls and cataracts. Butoo, there is
+some reason to suppose, may be the Bito of Leo<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_83">[83]</span> Africanus, which, according to the
+authority of <em>Joannes Blaev</em> (taken perhaps from Leo) p.
+107, is bounded east by Guber, which latter place Bowditch informs
+us, is 10 days’ journey N.E. from Yaoora. Should Bito and Butoo be
+the same place, then it would appear to be on the Gir; and
+therefore may, on that side, be accounted as the port both of
+Kashna and Houssa. On the other hand, the rocks said to be in the
+river east of this place, corresponds in some measure with the
+account of rocks or rapids at Boussa. By the authority of Bowditch,
+we learn that Nyffe is one day’s journey below Yaoora, while
+another account, which appears more distinct, says that it is below
+Boussa and Wauwa. This shews the great extent of the country of
+Houssa; and as the name is often used to designate the country, not
+the city, so the accounts of travellers are confused, or rendered
+confused, by not adverting to this circumstance.</p>
+
+<p>Below Yaoora, 4 days’ journey, or about 40 miles, is situated
+Boussa, where Park unfortunately perished, <em>four months</em>
+after he left Sansanding, and when he was so near accomplishing the
+object of his important journey. From the time he took to descend
+the river to this place, it is evident he must have stopped a
+considerable time at different places in his way, and the
+probability is, that he found the country interesting. One account
+says his death<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> was
+occasioned by an hostile attack on the part of the natives, from a
+high rock which overhangs the river where the stream was very
+confined and rapid; and another, that the natives pressed after him
+to warn him of his danger, but which he mistook for a meditated
+attack, and, in endeavouring to escape, rushed into the cataracts
+or rapids where he perished. The former account is, however, deemed
+the most correct, as the canoe and a negro remaining in it being
+saved, shewed that the current was not irresistible and
+overwhelming. Park and one of his companions jumped into the river
+to escape by swimming, but, unfortunately, they did not succeed.
+One of the bodies floated down the river, and was taken out of the
+stream at Gangi, an island in it, and buried there by direction of
+the king of Wauwa, a kingdom situated below Boussa. The Cape, or
+headland against which the canoe struck, would indicate the
+termination of a ridge or chain of mountains at this place. Amadou
+Fatouma’s description of this rock and passage like a door, was not
+mentioned by those eye-witnesses which related to Mr. Bowditch this
+fatal catastrophe.</p>
+
+<p>In this manner perished our unfortunate country-man, after all
+his honourable toils and labours, and when he was so near being
+crowned with complete success. The account which his guide gives of
+the events which led to his destruction are by no means
+satisfactory.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>
+Treachery occasioned the fatal event; and there is too much reason
+to believe that this guide was the traitor and betrayer of his
+former master. He, I suspect, it was that kept back the presents
+which Park had sent to the chief of Yaoora, and who communicated,
+at the same time, a message that Park never intended to return; a
+message, the very reverse of what Park was sure to have sent. These
+things irritated the chief; and in the deception under which he
+laboured, he took those rash measures which deprived society of an
+excellent man, and his country of an useful subject. The falsehoods
+of Amadou Fatouma, put forth to screen himself, we are, in one
+instance, enabled completely to expose. Passing Kabra, he says,
+they were followed by several canoes filled with men with hostile
+intentions. On these Mr. Park and his party fired, and killed a
+great many of them. This account was so contrary to Park’s
+disposition, and so improbable in itself, that it bore the
+strongest marks of falsehood. In a letter received at Mogadore, in
+the month of March 1806, by Seedi L’Abbes Buhellal Fasee, from his
+liberated slave at Timbuctoo, the writer says, “a boat arrived a
+few days since from the west at Kabra, having two or three
+Christians in it. One of them was (<em>rajeel Kabeer</em>) a tall
+man, who stood erect in the boat which displayed (<em>shinjuk
+bied</em>) a white flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> not, however, understand the
+signal to be emblematic of peace, and <em>no one went to the
+boat</em>, although it remained at anchor the whole day, till
+night. In the morning it was gone.” (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>,
+p. 319.) Here there is no account of hostile attacks or slaughter
+of the natives, all of which, had they been true, the writer must
+have known, and would most certainly have related. Mr. Jackson
+translated this letter himself, therefore there can be no
+imposition. Mr. Park left Sansanding on the 17th November, 1805,
+and the letter quoted must have been written early in December that
+year. The falsehoods advanced by Amadou were evidently contrived to
+justify the attack made by the people of Boussa upon Park, while
+his great anxiety to prevent Isaaco from proceeding to Yaoora was
+no doubt occasioned by his fears, lest, by going there, the latter
+should come to the knowledge of his treachery.</p>
+
+<p>From the plain and simple narrative of Sidi Hamed, it is quite
+clear that the country below Timbuctoo, on the south and south-west
+side of the Niger, is extremely mountainous. On that side they seem
+to have attracted his particular attention. The very high
+“<em>chain</em>” which he saw to the westward, from the summit of
+that ridge which he passed over, and near which place the Niger
+bursts through the chain, is a remarkable feature, and<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> leaves us scarcely any room to
+doubt that it is the continuation of the Kong range, or a main
+branch thereof, extending in a northerly direction towards the high
+lands, north and west of Kashna, and those north of Bornou, upon
+the confines of the northern deserts, and which must be the same as
+the Usurgala and Girgiris mountains of Ptolemy. The ridge here
+mentioned by Sidi Hamed is within a short distance of the high land
+of Zegzeg, to which it is no doubt joined. A branch of the Kong
+range, more to the southward, may extend eastward, and cross the
+course of the Niger about Boussa, or even lower down, until it is
+merged in the chains of hills to the eastward. The mountainous
+nature of the country we have been considering is mentioned by
+various authorities, particularly by Ledyard and Lucas, who were
+informed, that, south of the Niger, the mountains were of a most
+stupendous height all the way to Ashantee and the Gold Coast. It is
+probable that the very high mountains last mentioned by Sidi Hamed
+are the dry barren range, 40 miles distant from the Niger, and in
+the route from Gago to Guber, mentioned by Leo, and the Desert
+placed by Bowditch in these parts. In that journey this chain must
+be crossed, and its great height may render it barren and destitute
+of water. On the north-east side of the Niger, with the exception
+of the chain he crossed, it would appear from the narrative of Sidi
+Hamed, that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>
+country, near the river, was less mountainous. This agrees with
+other authorities, and will be considered more particularly
+hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>But, to return to the river:—Continuing its course
+south-eastward, for 150 miles below the place mentioned, or Yaoora,
+the Niger reaches Wassanah, a city twice as large as Timbuctoo, and
+situated on its eastern bank. Here the river turns nearly south,
+and is so broad that it is scarcely possible to discern a man on
+the opposite bank. From 300 to 400 canoes, each capable of
+containing from ten to twenty persons, plied constantly on the
+river. Crocodiles and alligators were numerous in the stream. The
+land on its banks was well cultivated, low, flooded during the
+inundation, and, consequently, produced excellent rice in
+abundance. On the western side were many towns and small
+settlements. Oxen, cows, asses, and elephants, were numerous, but
+there were no camels, mules, sheep, or goats. The King’s guards
+were armed with musquets; the sovereign and principal inhabitants
+wore shirts and trowsers of European manufacture. The inhabitants
+were all Pagans, a circumstance which Sidi Hamed pathetically
+laments, and which is perhaps the chief cause why this celebrated
+city has not been mentioned by other Arabs; it being well known
+that in their trading journeys they generally take those routes
+where they meet inhabitants professing<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_89">[89]</span> their own faith. Sidi Hamed was 51 days
+constant travelling, exclusive of the 6 days taken to cross the
+chain of mountains, in his journey from Timbuctoo to Wassanah. This
+would place Wassanah in 10° 40′ north latitude, and 9° 40′ east
+longitude. Ten miles per day, however, is certainly more than such
+a caravan could make good. That was the utmost which Bowditch and a
+small travelling party could make good in their journey from Cape
+Coast to Coomassie. We cannot err far, however, in placing
+Wassannah in 11° north latitude, and 9° 30′ east longitude.</p>
+
+<p>Though the accounts given of the progress of this river below
+Wassanah are less positive, still these are plain and satisfactory
+as to the great point at issue. From this city, according to Sidi
+Hamed, the Niger, called here by the natives Zadi, (which seems a
+very general name for a large river in Southern Africa,) flows
+first south and then west, till it reaches the <em>great
+water</em>, where were found “<em>pale people, who come thither in
+great boats</em>, and brought muskets, powder, tobacco, blue cloth,
+and knives, which they exchanged for slaves, ivory,” &amp;c. These
+pale people had in their great boats “<em>guns as big as men’s
+bodies</em>, and with which they could kill all the people in a
+hundred negro boats.” With these people the inhabitants of Wassanah
+traded. Many people had been down at “the great water” with
+slaves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> and teeth, and
+come back again. The brother of the King of Wassanah told Sidi
+Hamed that he was soon to set out on such a voyage with 60 boats
+and 500 negro slaves, and wished the latter to accompany him. It
+would, he said, take three moons to reach the “great water,” and to
+return by land he would be absent twenty moons—a striking proof of
+the slowness of, and difficulties attending African
+communications.</p>
+
+<p>The description here given of the European trade, and European
+vessels (for it could be no others,) engaged in it, and all the
+articles of that trade, are extremely accurate. Sidi Hamed, a
+native of the northern parts of the Great Desert, wholly
+unacquainted with such a traffic, never could invent such a story
+as this, nor had his informants any reason to deceive him with
+fictitious accounts; therefore, the authenticity of his narrative
+is clearly established, and the course of the Niger, and certainty
+of its being navigable, satisfactorily ascertained. That it is a
+different river from the Congo, is established by this fact, for
+the latter river cannot be navigated by any vessel in its lower
+course, by reason of rocks, rapids, and cataracts. Sidi Hamed
+arrived at Wassanah early in May, and stopped there two moons.
+Consequently, it must have been after the inundation, and when the
+heaviest rains were over, that the son of the King intended to
+set<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> out on his
+journey. The current would then be less rapid. The progress of such
+a fleet, creeping along the banks of the river, and stopping at
+almost every place in its way for the purposes of trade, or to
+procure provisions, would necessarily be extremely slow. The voyage
+also only continues during the day. As the level country was
+approached, the windings of the river would be more frequent and
+extensive, and, consequently, greatly protract the voyage. More
+than a third of the time would be occupied in stoppages; from 20 to
+22 miles per day is the utmost extent passed over during such
+voyages; and the horizontal distance made good on general bearings
+does not perhaps exceed 14 miles. Lagos, the great slave trading
+station, was evidently the place where these traders reached the
+“great water.” On the general bearings, the distance from Wassanah
+to Lagos cannot be less than 700 miles. Park took four months in
+one canoe to travel an equal distance from Sansanding to Boussa.
+The time therefore mentioned to Sidi Hamed as necessary to descend
+from Wassanah to the <em>great water</em> was no more than was
+absolutely necessary, considering the slowness of African
+travelling. Time, to an African, however, is an object of no
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p>In his journey from Yaoora to Wassanah, Sidi Hamed makes no
+mention of any mountains or<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_92">[92]</span> rocks in the river, though “<em>he travelled
+most of the time in sight of it</em>.” From this account, it would
+appear, that the course of the stream was here more direct, and the
+country more open. Yet it is possible that there may have been
+obstructions which he had not seen, or neglected to mention, from
+no questions being put to him on that head. The canoes which Sidi
+Hamed describes, as plying on the Niger at Wassanah, and descending
+the river to the sea, are exactly the same as Bowditch and other
+authorities were informed did go down from the interior, and which
+Robertson and others saw come down from the interior to these parts
+of the sea coasts. These canoes are all large, and have apartments
+for the trader and his wives separate from the slaves and servants.
+Wassanah, from the previous accounts, will stand on the Niger about
+100 miles below the place where Park perished, and evidently out of
+the track of the great trading routes chiefly frequented by the
+Arabs.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span><a id=
+"c3"></a>CHAP. III.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Eastern rivers — Misselad or Gir, source and
+course — Dar Saley — Wara — Other rivers — Gir turns west — Lake
+Fittre — Magnitude of River; Junction with the Shary —
+Bahr-el-Feydh — Bahr Djad — Course of Gir west — Gambarou — Birney
+— Bornou — River Tzad — Face of the country — Cano or Ghana —
+Kashna — Gulbe, supposed course of ditto — Position of Kashna —
+Junction of eastern and western rivers — Vancara or Owencara; what
+it is — Bito — Temian — Cannibals — Junction of Gir and Bahr Kulla,
+source and course of ditto — Mount Thala — Miri — Junchor and Bahr
+Salamat Rivers — Lake Haimat — Island at the Junction of Gir and
+Niger — Lybia Palus — Lake of Jackson, or Sea of Sudan; what that
+is — Robertson — River Loro — Fillanee — Water communication
+between the sea coast and north-east parts of Africa — Course of
+the Niger to the sea in the Bights of Benin and Biafra — Boundary
+of Benin — Bahr Kulha; what it is.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">B<span class="sc">efore</span> examining more
+particularly the accounts of the country from Wassanah to the sea,
+and the outlets of the Niger from other authorities, it is
+necessary to turn our attention to the immense supply of waters
+which it receives from the eastern and the north-eastern parts of
+Africa. With our present information, it is not easy to fix with
+accuracy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> the points
+where these waters form a junction with the Niger. Nevertheless, it
+is hoped that this may be done with sufficient accuracy, to shew
+the great geographical outlines of the rivers of northern Africa,
+which are the object of the present research. Let us take the chief
+or parent stream first.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side of the chain, which gives birth to the
+Bahr-el-Abiad, or chief branch of the Egyptian Nile, springs the
+Misselad of Browne, the Abou Teymam, or Om Teymam of Burkhardt, and
+the Gir of Ptolemy. It is satisfactory to learn, from the authority
+of Burkhardt, the discovery of this long lost name. It is called by
+the natives of these parts Djyr, which, in the Egyptian
+pronunciation, sounds Gir. Mr. Beaufoy was informed, that the river
+of Bornou rose “from the same source,” or, in other words, in the
+vicinity of the Egyptian Nile. Leo also heard the same thing
+reported. Edrisi states the matter distinctly; and Ptolemy
+evidently brings it from the southernmost point of his Garamantican
+rampart, in 10° north latitude. The Gir flows first in a
+north-north-west direction towards the kingdom of Dar Saley or
+Borgo. Inclining more to the north-west, it passes the parallel of
+Wara, the capital of Dar Saley, three days’ journey to the west of
+that city; and, according to the accounts obtained by Dr. Seibzen,
+it is in this part of its course as large as the Nile<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> in Egypt, or near half a mile
+broad. From the eastward, according to Burkhardt, it must have
+previously received the Oul Rashid, Abou Redjeyle, and Om Ettyman,
+besides other streams, which flow from the kingdom of Darfur. The
+country between Wara and Darfur is mountainous and rocky. Deep
+lakes are formed by the rains which remain throughout the year, and
+afford retreats for the crocodiles and Hippopotami. The natives of
+Dar Saley use canoes in passing their rivers, a proof of the
+magnitude of the same. The country about the sources of the
+Misselad, is represented as extremely mountainous, and giving birth
+to numerous streams. Westward of Wara is several very high
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Running northerly from the parallel of Wara, the river soon
+after turns west, and, flowing in that direction a distance of 11
+days’ journey, (Browne,) it falls into lake Fittre, certainly the
+Nuba Palus of Ptolemy. The coincidence is very remarkable. Lake
+Fittre is two days journey south-east of the Bahr-el-Gazalle. The
+size of this lake varies in the relations given by different
+travellers. Some make it four days’ journey in circumference,
+others 15. The difference may proceed from the one account relating
+to the magnitude in the dry, and the other in the rainy season, and
+estimating by different scales. This lake is also called by
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> Arabs Caudee and
+Bahr-el-Noëh. According to a tradition, the waters of the deluge
+were absorbed in it. A very high mountain is situate near it.
+(<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 203.) It is evidently the same lake as that
+mentioned by Leo, as lying 150 miles east of Bornou. From Dar Saley
+to lake Fittre, the country, it would appear, is rather flat than
+mountainous, and much flooded during the rains. (<em>Burk.</em> p.
+484.) Towards the Bahr-el-Gazalle the land is woody, and the soil
+clayey. (<em>Browne</em>.)</p>
+
+<p>Issuing from lake Fittre, the river takes a western course.
+According to the accounts obtained by Ritchie, it is hereabouts one
+mile broad, and very deep. (<em>Quart. Rev.</em> May, 1820.) At the
+distance of 12 days’ journey from the lake, (<em>Bowditch</em>, p.
+203,) the river is joined by a large stream descending from the
+north-east, and called the Sharee or Shary. Burkhardt also was
+informed that it flowed from north-east to south-west, and was as
+large as the Nile in Egypt, (2000 feet broad,) full of fish, and
+abounding in crocodiles. This stream, there is reason to believe,
+is also called the river of Baghermee. From its magnitude at its
+junction with the Gir, the sources must be remote, and towards the
+eastern parts of the mountains of Tibbou of Bilmah. In these parts,
+according to Burkhardt, (p. 488,) the country is flat, flooded
+during the rains, and fine water<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_97">[97]</span> is abundant found even during the dry season,
+upon slightly digging the sands. Therefore it is called
+<em>Bahr</em>. The sweetness of the water shews that it is entirely
+free from the saline particles of the desert, and, therefore, on
+the confines of those countries where rivers spring forth. Perhaps
+this is the stream which forms the Chelonidæ Paludes of Ptolemy. A
+considerable river, called the Bahr Djad, runs into the Shary on
+its western side, before the junction of the latter with the great
+river. Also, on the eastern side, the Shary, in like manner,
+receives a still more considerable stream, called Bahr-el-Feydh, or
+<em>inundating river</em>. (<em>Burk.</em> p. 478 and 479.) On this
+river, or near it, according to the same authority, is situated
+Kanem in the Bahr-el-Gazalle. Edrisi mentions a river called the
+Nile, three days’ journey from the town of Angimi, in the province
+of Kanem. According to Bowditch, (p. 213,) six days’ journey east
+of the confines of Bornou, and close to Aweeac, travellers pass a
+very large river, called by the negro merchants Zerookoo
+Kerooboobie. It is evidently the Shary, which is said to be 15
+days’ slow march eastward of the confines of Bornou.
+(<em>Burkhardt</em>.)</p>
+
+<p>From the junction of the Shary the great river continues a
+westerly course, and, it is probable, under different names. The
+exact course is not readily delineated. Nevertheless we cannot err
+far<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> in the chief
+features. At no great distance from the junction of the Shary, the
+mighty stream approaches within half a day’s journey of the capital
+of Bornou, and passes the port of this city named Gambarou. Here it
+is joined by another river from the northward; but whether this
+river is called Kamadkoo, (the same as the Kammadoo mentioned to
+Mr. Hutchison, <em>Bowd.</em> p. 213,) and the great river, Tshadi
+or Tzad; or, that the great river bears the former name, and the
+river from the north the latter, it is difficult in the present
+state of our information to determine. Hornemann was informed that
+the river of Bornou was called Zad, and that it was a mile broad.
+Burkhardt was also informed, that the river was called Tzad, and he
+was told that it flowed at a short distance from the capital;
+therefore, the Tzad may be taken as the proper name of the great
+river, particularly as we find it bears that name in its lower
+course. The river, coming from the northward, as conjectured by
+Burkhardt, probably springs from Mount Dirka, in the great range of
+hills south of the desert of Bilmah. These mountains lie nearly
+under the tropic of Cancer, and in about 21° east longitude,
+corresponding with the chain Girgiris of Ptolemy. The river that he
+mentions springing from Mount Girgiris in two places, 5° of
+longitude separate, may be the river we have mentioned, or the
+Shary. The resemblance is very striking.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_99">[99]</span> Across a desert 200 miles broad, and
+south-east from Fezzan, lies the country of Tibesti, full of
+fertile vales and mountains, affording excellent pasturage. Though
+it never rains in this country, still springs are abundant. In this
+country, therefore, and to the southward and eastward of it, in all
+probability, rise all the rivers which flow south from the river,
+which passes the capital of Bornou to the Shary. From the extent of
+country through which these flow, it is evident that they must be
+powerful streams.</p>
+
+<p>A native of Bornou informed Dr. Seitzen, that the river, within
+a mile of the city, was as large as the Nile in Egypt, abounding
+with hippopotami and fish. It was navigated by vessels having sails
+and oars. It overflowed its banks, and, during the inundation, a
+virgin female slave, richly dressed, is thrown into the river by
+order of the king. Bowditch, (p. 218,) was informed, that a small
+river, called Gaboöa, ran southwards near Bornou; and Burkhardt was
+told, that the river formed a lake of a considerable size, on the
+west side of which stood Birney, the capital of Bornou, a city of
+such magnitude, that travellers, in describing it, state,
+“<em>Cairo was a trifle to it</em>.” Other authorities, however,
+deny the existence of any lake; and, whether the river Gaboöa
+mentioned to Bowditch, is the same as that alluded to by Burkhardt,
+it is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> difficult to
+determine. They may be the same; and the smallness of the Gaboöa
+may be estimated in comparison with the great river.</p>
+
+<p>All the countries through which the rivers we have mentioned
+flow are very mountainous and woody, and greatly inundated by the
+tropical rains. They are also populous, powerful, and well
+cultivated. The inhabitants are great traders. Bornou is a mighty
+empire. Its authority is acknowledged to the banks of the Niger.
+The sovereign is represented as more powerful than the emperor of
+Morocco. Wangara and Kashna are subject to him. This country is
+situated a great deal farther to the southward and the westward
+than has hitherto been allowed. Burkhardt is of opinion that it
+lies not much to the eastward of south from Fezzan. According to
+Browne, (p. 448,) from Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara to Bornou, is 60
+days’ journey. This places it much to the westward. Two things
+prove its southern position: First, its territories are said to
+extend to within 20 days’ journey of the Bahr-el-Abiad. Second,
+elephants are found there, which animals, it is well known, cannot
+live in the dry countries to the northward. The country of Bornou
+is, in general, level, and very rich and fertile. It produces
+maize, rice, beans, cotton, hemp, indigo in abundance, grapes,
+apricots, pomegranates, lemons, limes, melons, &amp;c.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span> and plenty of sheep, goats,
+camels, horses, buffaloes, and horned cattle. There are also lions,
+leopards, wolves, foxes, elephants, and the rivers abound with
+fish, crocodiles, and hippopotami. This country is what was known
+to the early Arabian geographers as the land of Kanem, a very
+extensive region and powerful state, ruled by the Beni Wayl, one of
+the most ancient and powerful of all the Arabian tribes.</p>
+
+<p>From the port of Bornou, the Gir (for we shall retain the
+ancient name) continues its course west, declining southward; and,
+from the accounts received by Ritchie, at a distance of 12 days’
+journey, reaches Cano, no doubt the ancient Ghana. Bowditch calls
+it Kano, or Kanoo, and makes the distance 24 days’ journey.
+Ritchie’s informant, however, might mean the frontier of the
+kingdom, while the distance given to Bowditch, extends from capital
+to capital. The river here, according to Ritchie, is called Tshadi.
+Bowditch, (p. 211,) says he was informed that the river skirted
+Kano and Oongooroo, or Vancara. In the Geography of Joannes Bleav,
+(p. 105,) it is particularly mentioned that the kingdom of Cano
+extends, <em>for a part only</em>, along the channel of the Nile on
+the right hand. This would serve to shew, if correct, that the
+course of the stream turned more to the southward, leaving the
+territories of Cano. This is by no means improbable.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> A difficulty, however, here
+occurs, as we shall see presently. Ritchie’s informant appears to
+make the river continue westward to Kassena, which he stated was
+only 5 days’ journey from Cano; here again he seems to mean the
+frontier of the former kingdom, for Bowditch was informed that the
+distance was 10 days’ journey. Ritchie’s informant, Hadji Hamet,
+states that Kassena, (Cassena, or Cashna) was upon the river here
+called Gulbe; and as broad as from the gate of Tripoli to the
+Bazaar on the sands, or <em>one-third</em> of a mile. It would
+appear, however, that when speaking of the Gulbe, he is speaking of
+a different river to the great river. The name of the latter above
+Kashna, is Tshadi. The name far from and below it is Tshadi also.
+It is not at all probable that he would mention the river in Kashna
+under a different name to that which the same stream bore, both
+above and below that city. Besides, the magnitude of the Gulbe,
+only one-third of a mile, would shew it to be a different river
+from the Tshadi, which, and much nearer its source, is represented
+by various authorities as three times the breadth of the Gulbe.
+Hornemann also heard that in the country of Houssa and Kashna,
+there was a river called Gulbe.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Lucas was informed that Kashna was 5 days’ journey, about 65
+miles north of the great river. Bowditch, (pages 207 and 211,)
+gives it the same<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>
+distance; for he states that, three days’ journey from Goobur, and
+13 from the Niger, travellers, in their route to Kashna, pass
+“<em>a large river</em>.” The point to be determined here is, what
+river is it that is here mentioned? It is not the Niger. If it was
+the Gir continuing to flow westward, then that stream would join
+the Niger at the place where the ferry mentioned by Sidi Hamed is
+placed: but, on the other hand, it may be a stream descending from
+the north, and which, passing Kashna under the name of Gulbe, flows
+south to join the Gir, the latter river having previously bent its
+course in that direction. Sheeref Imhammed says that the Nile, or
+the great river, flows west through the kingdom of Kashna with a
+rapidity no vessel can stem; and that its breadth at the island
+called Gongoo, where the ferry men reside, is so great, that the
+sound of the loudest voice from the northern shore can scarcely be
+heard. Its depth is 24 feet. Still, however, this river may be said
+to run westward through the kingdom of Kashna, and not reach the
+Niger at the point supposed. It may also there join the Niger, and
+yet, previous to its doing so, receive the waters of the Gulbe from
+the northward. Whoever casts his eye upon the map, and considers
+the nature and extent of the country to the northward of Kashna,
+must perceive that it is not at all probable such a great space can
+be destitute of rivers. The cultivated country commences from the
+Tropic, 450 miles to the northward. A<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_104">[104]</span> river descends from the Tropic of Cancer,
+and passes Agadez. D’Anville calls it Wad-el-Mezzeran, and makes it
+rise in about 26° north latitude. He says the caravans from Tripoli
+to Nigritia (perhaps kingdom of Kashna,) perform seven days’
+journey along its banks. The authors of the Encyclopedia Britannica
+affirm, that this river joins the Niger. In the French maps of
+1757, drawn by Robert de Vagondy for the king of France, this river
+is laid down as joining the Niger about 250 miles below Timbuctoo.
+It is also curious, that in all the old maps of Africa,
+(particularly that by Ortelius, in 1570, and that by Joannis Bleav,
+1662.) various rivers are laid down as flowing from the northward
+and joining the Niger. Cassena, in particular, is laid down by
+Ortelius on a river; and the river of Agadez is laid down as
+running into lake Guber. For these things, these authors certainly
+had positive, though not perfectly accurate information. Upon the
+whole, however, comparing their accounts with those of the most
+recent date, there seems the best reason to believe that Kashna
+does stand upon a river descending from the north, but whether it
+is the same with that which passes Agadez or not, I cannot take
+upon me to determine. The probability is, that it is the same.</p>
+
+<p>Kashna, it would appear, stands in 15° north latitude, and 11°
+30′ east longitude. At this rate Cano, 130 miles, or 2° farther
+east, will stand very nearly<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_105">[105]</span> where Ptolemy has placed his Gira
+metropolis. This city stood in 18° north latitude, and 36° east
+longitude, which, corrected as before mentioned, is about 13° east
+of Greenwich. This correction agrees very well with what Ptolemy
+says in another place, namely, that this city was in time 1⅛ hour,
+(or 17° nearly) west of Alexandria, which is exactly 13° east of
+Greenwich.</p>
+
+<p>Though, from the reasons mentioned, there is a very great
+probability that a river, or the great river from the east, does
+join the Niger above or near Yaoora, still the silence of Sidi
+Hamed and Bowditch, with others, upon that important point, leaves
+a doubt on the subject. That junction, perhaps, takes place lower
+down, and if so, must be below Wassanah. That such a junction does
+take place, must be self-evident, and is, moreover, positively
+stated. Bowditch was informed that the Moors call the Niger Quolla
+at Jinnë, and Sansanding, &amp;c. and describes the Joliba as
+falling into the Quolla, east of Timbuctoo (p. 191.) Here the names
+are evidently misplaced, no uncommon thing with Arab travellers.
+(Burkhardt, p. 489,) states that the Tzad of Bornou, and the Joliba
+were connected together. Leo Africanus also states the same thing,
+when he says that, during the inundation, “a man in a bark may pass
+over all the land of the Negroes.” (<em>Purchas</em>, lib. 6. c. 1.
+p. 765.) In the present state of our information, the greatest
+difficulty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> is to
+determine the exact point where that junction takes place. The
+accounts concerning this portion of Africa are, as regards these
+more minute points, very confused and unsatisfactory. The grand
+features, however, we are still enabled to trace with considerable
+precision.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite common for the Moors, the Arabs, and the Negroes, in
+their descriptions of countries through which they pass, to reverse
+the course of rivers, by placing the geographical line, or bearing,
+of the bed of each as the course of the stream. It is also very
+common for them to describe, as one, different rivers which may in
+their course approach near each other, and to state as a
+continuation of a river, any stream that joins another coming from
+an opposite direction. Of these, numerous instances might be given
+from the narratives of all their authors and travellers. A few may
+here suffice. Abulfeda says “the Egyptian Nile goes on to the land
+of the Zingians (Ethiopians;”) and Scheabeddin states, that “many
+rivers derived from this great river, water Nubia, &amp;c.” Now the
+Nile does not go to these countries, but is formed by various
+streams flowing from them. Three Moors described to Bowditch the
+course of the Niger to Egypt thus: One began it, or made it rise at
+the mouth of the Senegal,—one in Bambouk, and continuing it along
+the Senegal, came to the Niger above Sego,—where the third made it
+rise, and then all three<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_107">[107]</span> carried the course of the stream down to
+Yaoora, thence to Noofee, thence to Rakah, thence to Bornou, thence
+to Dar Saley, thence to Darfur, thence to Sennaar, and thence to
+Egypt; thus embracing and marking as one, four distinct rivers, all
+running in different directions. In short, they identify the course
+of the rivers with the direction of their journey: But having one
+or more sure points to direct us, such as the course of the Niger
+east, and the course of the Gir west, it will enable us to decypher
+with ease, many apparent inconsistencies in accounts given by the
+Moors, Arabs, or Negroes; and explain their meaning about the
+Joliba and the river of Bornou being one stream, as well as other
+things of a similar description.</p>
+
+<p>The eastern parts of Sudan, or Central Africa, which we have
+been considering, exhibit features very different to what has
+hitherto been believed. The mountains are numerous, and, as in
+Zegzeg, of a stupendous height. Around Agadez, the country is
+delightful, fruitful, and populous. Kashna is beautifully
+diversified with hill and dale, delightfully wooded, and well
+cultivated. Here and there to the northward, strips of desert
+countries, and a bare ridge intervenes, but the fruitful land
+prevails. The rivers, which are found in almost every part, are of
+great magnitude. Ritchie was informed that, in that part of its
+course due south of Fezzan,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_108">[108]</span> the great river is so broad, that people
+can scarcely see an object on the opposite bank. Cities of very
+considerable magnitude rear their heads on every side, and at short
+distances from each other. Commerce is active; cultivated fields,
+flocks and herds, every where meet the eye. None of these things
+could be found in a country wild or full of sandy deserts, or
+inhabited by mere savages.</p>
+
+<p>In this part of Africa, all accounts agree, the streams bend
+their course to the southward. Amadou Fatouma, “who was the
+greatest traveller in this part of Africa, told Park that he was
+certain that the Niger did not terminate either in Kashna or
+Bornou, as he had been in both these places; but that, after
+passing Kashna, the river turned, <em>and</em> ran to the right
+hand (south.”) Its further course was to him unknown. Hornemann was
+informed that the Niger flowed southward from Houssa. Park was
+informed (so was Hornemann) that the Niger declined south, till it
+joined the Bahr Kulla. Scheabeddin evidently points out the
+southerly course of the Niger, when he says, that, except the Nile
+of Egypt, which runs north, all the other “rivers of Africa have
+their direction to the east, to the west, and <em>to the
+south</em>.” There could be no other great river known to the Arabs
+in his days that flowed south but the Niger.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>Taking it as
+certain that the Gir, or Tshadi, joins the Niger below Wassanah, we
+will return to that part of its course where it must turn to the
+south-west. This will be between Cano and Kashna. This necessarily
+leads us to consider the kingdom or province of Guangara, mentioned
+by Leo, and, no doubt, the same as the Vancara of Edrisi, and the
+Owencara of Ibn-al-Vardi. This country is certainly not only
+situated upon a river, but at the junction of one or more rivers.
+Bowditch, (page 212,) informs us that it is called Oongooroo, being
+a negro corruption of the Arabic name. It lay between Kano and
+Bornou, and was skirted by a river on the north: at present, it
+seems much reduced in its opulence and extent. According to Leo, it
+extended westward as far as Zamfra or Zamfara, which, we learn from
+Bowditch, adjoins Guber on the north-west. On the east it is
+bounded by Bornou, to which power it is subject. Edrisi calls it an
+“empire,” which shews its former extent; formerly it was subject to
+Ghana. It was then a very rich country, and carried on a great
+traffic with the neighbouring and distant countries in gold dust,
+found in the country itself, and also brought from mountainous
+districts to the southward. This district is much flooded in
+August, when the inundation is highest. According to Edrisi, it is
+“most famous for its excellency and abundance of gold;”<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> and, according to
+Ibn-al-Vardi, it is “the country of gold and aromatics.” The gold,
+they inform us, is collected after the flood retires; then the
+inhabitants “slightly dig the earth, and not one of them is
+disappointed in his labour.”</p>
+
+<p>These Arabian authors call this district an island, and say it
+was 300 (Arabic) miles long, and 150 miles broad, surrounded by the
+Nile all the year, says Edrisi—but only on three sides, says
+Ibn-al-Vardi. The former calls it an “island,” the latter an “isle
+or peninsula.” It has been already noticed that these writers use
+the words isle, or peninsula, or lands lying about and between the
+junction of rivers, as synonymous terms. Two examples may suffice.
+Ibn Selym, the old Arabian traveller already quoted, says,
+regarding the Egyptian Nile, that “an <em>island</em> is enclosed
+between the Bahr-el-Abiad and Bahr-el-Azreek, the upper end of
+which is unknown, as is likewise the extremity of these rivers;”
+and again, concerning the branches of the Bahr-el-Azreek, “they
+have fewer side-channels and <em>islands</em>” than the other
+rivers. (<em>Burk.</em> p. 499.) This affords us a complete
+elucidation of what the Arabian geographers meant by the Island of
+Vancara. With this explanation also we unriddle much of the Arabian
+geography. Edrisi says the frontier of Vancara lay south-west of
+Ghanah about 8 days’ journey. Ibn-al-Vardi says this<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> country was situate “<em>on
+the shore of the great Bahr</em>,” (river or lake,) which would
+seem to point out the lake into which the Gir, or Tshadi, enters.
+Vancara therefore seems to comprehend the country in the middle
+course of the Gir to the lake, and may also be intended to include
+the country betwixt the Gulbe and the Gir, the Gir and the Niger,
+and might extend to another large river about to be mentioned. The
+land betwixt them is, in the oriental style, denominated an
+island.</p>
+
+<p>East of Bito, and south of Guangara, is the large district of
+Temian, inhabited, according to Leo and others, by a wild savage
+people, who are represented as cannibals. I notice this here for
+two reasons; first, because it is said that this country is bounded
+<em>south</em> by the Niger, which shews how much both it and the
+Gir decline south even according to ancient authorities. It is
+uncertain which river is meant; but as Bito is represented as being
+east of Guber, and Temian east of Bito, the river which bounds
+Temian on the south is more probably the Bahr Kulla than the Niger.
+Second, I notice this kingdom because various other authorities
+mention a nation of cannibals in this part of Africa, and also that
+they are near the Quolla or Niger. Mr. Bowditch, (page 202,) was
+informed that their country was called Canna, Dall and Yum-Yum, and
+subject to Quollaliffa, or<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_112">[112]</span> Quollaraba, a powerful kingdom on the
+Niger, below Noofee or Nyffe. Hornemann was informed they were
+called Yem-Yems, and that their country lay to the south of Cano.
+Yam-yam was also heard of by Burkhardt, as a Pagan country very far
+distant from Dar Saley. Browne also was told of this Pagan country
+very <em>remote</em> from Darfur, and called by the Arabs
+Gnum-Gnum, whose inhabitants eat their prisoners taken in war.
+(<em>Browne</em>, p. 310.) This is no doubt the country called
+Temian by Leo and others, and which is said to be bounded
+<em>south</em> by the Niger.</p>
+
+<p>Descending south-west, the Gir approaches its confluence with
+the Niger, and near which it is probably joined by a very large
+river called Bahr Kulla. The proper name of it however is perhaps
+different. This must be a very large river. It may take its name
+from the country from whence it flows, and in which it takes its
+rise, namely, Dar Kulla. All accounts agree in placing this country
+nearly south-west of Darfur. The branches which form the river in
+question rise on the west side of the mountains of El Komri, which
+give birth to the Bahr-el-Abiad, or Egyptian Nile. The country
+hereabouts is extremely mountainous and woody; large rivers must
+consequently soon be formed. Browne informs us that in this part of
+Africa the rivers were numerous and large, and that they
+were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> crossed in
+ferry-boats hollowed out of a single tree, and managed partly by
+poles and partly by double oars. Burkhardt also informs us, from
+good authority, that Dar Kulla, and the countries around, “were
+throughout mountainous, and that several very large rivers flowed
+through them, <em>which were never dry</em>,” a strong Arabic
+expression, denoting rivers of the first magnitude. The rivers,
+according to Browne and others, take courses first north-westerly;
+in this point corroborating the earliest authors, and corresponding
+very accurately with the features of the country as delineated by
+Ptolemy. The sources are east of his Thala mountain, north of his
+Aranga mountain, and west of that chain which intervenes between
+these springs and the Misselad. The Bahr Kulla is perhaps the
+branch which Ptolemy mentions joins the Niger from the east above
+the Lybian Lake.</p>
+
+<p>Bounding the range of Mount Thala, in a westerly course, the
+Bahr Kulla declines southerly till its junction with the Gir, where
+the united stream soon after joins the Niger, if the two streams do
+not join it at the same place. Many Moors and Arabs who travel in
+the interior of Africa, state, that the Niger joins the Bahr Kulla,
+and flows to form the Bahr-el-Abiad. Bowditch, Park, and Hornemann,
+were each told this; and an Arab pilgrim, in the suite of the
+Morocco Princes, told Captain Dundas<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_114">[114]</span> of the Tagus frigate, that the Niger
+communicated with the Nile of Egypt, through the sea of Sudan. All
+these accounts only tend to prove the course of a river in the
+direction already mentioned, and its subsequent junction with the
+Niger. Better authority enables us to shew the junction of the Bahr
+Kulla and Bahr-el-Abiad to be a misapprehension, arising from the
+manner in which the Arabs frequently express themselves on these
+matters. Of the junction of the river which comes from Dar Kulla
+with the Niger, there is no doubt; but it is probable that the
+words Bahr Kulla, or Kûlha, have a very different signification
+than this particular river.</p>
+
+<p>Betwixt the river of Kulla and the Misselad there is a great
+extent of country where rivers rise, and flow to join the Gir in
+its middle course. Of these, however, we are imperfectly informed.
+The chief seems to be that called Bahr Salamat, which runs
+north-west, and passes through Lake Haimat. Numerous other streams,
+however, spring in those parts, and pursue their course in a
+westerly direction, but which no traveller has yet completely
+explored. The chief of these streams are the Miri, the Junchor, and
+the Terruge, the latter between the Miri and the Salamat. The two
+first are certainly large streams; in their upper parts their
+courses are north-westerly, and there is little doubt<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> but, as Major Rennel supposes,
+they join the great river in Vancara. Hence it is easy to see that
+this country must be greatly flooded during the height of the
+floods in August. It is curious that, carrying their lower courses
+on the bearings mentioned, that the positions and bearings, and
+distances of Reghebil and Ghanara, (both situated on fresh water
+streams or seas,) as given by Edrisi from Ghana, and from each
+other, should correspond so very exactly.</p>
+
+<p>Browne mentions a singular circumstance, that merchants from
+Darfur, who go to Dar Kulla across the Misselad to trade, do not
+return till the end of two years, and that they occupy from 80 to
+90 days in going there, and as much on returning. This would
+indicate that the country was at a much greater distance than in
+the immediate vicinity of the Mountains of the Moon. In fact, at
+ten miles per day, it would reach almost to the flat country near
+Benin. There may, however, be some error even in the reckoning, or
+some particular obstructions to travelling, which indeed must
+necessarily be very slow through such a woody, hilly, and well
+watered country as intervenes. He mentions also that the
+inhabitants are partly copper-coloured, which would indicate a
+mixture of Arabs; and that this country was towards the west and
+centre of Africa. On the other hand, the kingdom being
+invaded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> by the arms
+of Dar Saley, would shew that the distance from the latter is not
+very great.</p>
+
+<p>The junction of the Gir with the Niger, I suppose, takes place
+in about 10° east longitude, and 9° north latitude. Jackson, in his
+favourite theory, that a water communication exists between the
+Nile of Sudan and the Nile of Egypt by means of the Bahr Kulla and
+the Bahr-el-Abiad, states the belief to be, that such a union of
+waters takes place in Bahr Kulla, Wangara, or the Sea of Sudan.
+That this union, by the junction of the streams about these parts
+of Africa, does take place, there is little room to doubt. But Mr.
+Jackson seems at length to have renounced the idea that the
+Bahr-el-Abiad is a continuation of the Niger. (<em>Jackson’s
+Shabeeny</em>, p. 443.) Almost all accounts, ancient and modern,
+speak of a large lake in the central parts of Africa, but its exact
+position it is very difficult to fix; indeed, it would seem that
+there are more than one lake in these southern parts of Africa.
+Some authorities, however, by identifying the ocean with the lake,
+or lakes with the ocean, may thus create the apparent uncertainty.
+In the map by Ortellius, in 1570, this lake is called the Lake of
+Guber, which would lead us to look for it about the place where
+that kingdom is placed. There can be no doubt that the lake in
+question is the Lybian Lake laid down by Ptolemy in 16°
+30′<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> north latitude,
+and 35° east longitude, or, when corrected, from 11° to 12° east of
+Greenwich. This is east of the course of the Niger at Yaoora, above
+3° 30′, which would bring the position of this lake directly in the
+course of the Gir to the southward. Ptolemy has placed it in 16°
+30′ north latitude; but we have seen that he was 3° wrong in the
+position of the Nigrites Palus, and a similar allowance may fairly
+be made for the position of his Lybia Palus. This would place it in
+about 13° north latitude. It is remarkable that Hadji Hamet
+informed Mr. Ritchie that “at Nyffe there was a <em>large sea, not
+salt but sweet</em>, and that the river Tshadi (river of Bornou or
+Gir,) came out of that sea and flowed to the Egyptian Nile. He
+could not tell whether the river of Timbuctoo flowed into that sea
+or not.” (<em>Quart. Rev.</em> May, 1820.) The misapprehension
+concerning the true course of the Tshadi is here so obvious, that
+it scarcely requires pointing out; the fact, however, of the Gir
+flowing into this lake, and the coincidence with the Lybia Palus of
+Ptolemy, is very remarkable and important. The lake being formed by
+the Gir, and not by the Niger, sufficiently accounts for no notice
+being taken of it by Sidi Hamed in his journey to Wassanah.</p>
+
+<p>Jackson states that this lake, which he takes for the Sea of
+Sudan, is 450 miles eastward of Timbuctoo, and that “the
+Neel-el-Abeed (Niger) <em>passes<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_118">[118]</span> through it</em>.” (<em>Jack. Shab.</em> p.
+486.) This, supposing that city to be in 3° east longitude, would
+bring the position of the lake to be in 10° 30′ east longitude, 1°
+or more to the west of the point mentioned. It must however be
+observed, that, in tracing the course of the Niger below Timbuctoo,
+I have followed the bearings given by Sidi Hamed. It is possible
+that it may be carried 1° too far east, and the course of the Gir
+not carried sufficiently to the westward. Perfect accuracy in these
+things at present is impossible, nor does the want materially alter
+the grand features it is my chief object to delineate. Jackson says
+that “a lake is formed by the waters of the Neel-el-Abeed, of which
+the opposite shore is not visible. It is navigated by large
+vessels, which sometimes <em>come to Timbuctoo, manned by a
+particular kind of people</em>. On its eastern bank begins the
+territory of white people, denominated by the Arabs N’sareth,”
+(Christians.) From this description it is quite evident that the
+“lake” here mentioned is a different lake to that represented as
+being situated 450 miles east of Timbuctoo. It is clearly the sea
+on the Gold coast, and Bights of Benin and Biafra—“a lake whose
+opposite shore is not visible,” and on the eastern or north-eastern
+bank of which “is the territory of Christians.” The fact of large
+vessels coming up from this lake to Timbuctoo, “<em>manned by a
+particular kind of people</em>,”<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_119">[119]</span> is an additional proof that the navigation
+of the Niger is unobstructed from the ocean to Timbuctoo.</p>
+
+<p>The Sea of Sudan, however, or this interior lake, if it really
+bears that name, is certainly a different expanse of water from the
+<em>Bahar Sefeena</em> of Park, which Jackson labours to prove is
+the same. His Bahar Sudan, he asserts, is east of Timbuctoo 450
+miles. From Sego to Bœdoo, according to Park, is 30 days journey,
+in a southerly direction. “One month’s travel,” says he,
+“<em>south</em> of Bœdoo, through the kingdom of Gotto, (Moosee)
+will bring the traveller to the country of the Christians, who have
+their houses on the banks of the Ba-Se-Feena. This water is
+incomparably larger than the Lake Dibbie, and the water sometimes
+ran one way and sometimes another.” (<em>Park</em>, vol. ii. p.
+229, 8vo. ed.) The words Ba-se-Feena are very properly shewn, by
+Jackson, to be a corruption of the Arabic words Bahar Sefeena,
+signifying literally “<em>the sea of ships</em>,” or the sea where
+ships are seen. The direction, the distance, and every other
+particular mentioned, however, clearly point out the European
+settlements on the Gold coast. The water running sometimes one way
+and sometimes another, obviously relates to the flux and reflux of
+the sea, a phenomenon which could not fail to arrest the attention
+of a negro from the interior. The water<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_120">[120]</span> here mentioned never can be taken as a lake
+in the interior to the <em>eastward</em> of Timbuctoo; and it is
+strange that a person of Mr. Jackson’s discrimination in African
+affairs should attempt to confound two things so clearly distinct.
+The Bahar Sefeena and Bahar Sudan may be the same; but, if they are
+so, it is certainly the Gulph of Guinea which is represented under
+the appellation.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the junction of the Niger with the rivers from
+the eastward. From Robertson’s Notes in Africa, lately published,
+we learn, by information which he received on the coast at
+Greghwee, from people belonging to the interior, that,
+<em>forty</em> days’ journey from Greghwee, and in a north-east
+direction, lay the country of Fillanee, on the river Kakoa, which
+flowed into a lake called Issebee, near the sea. Still farther, in
+the same direction, and betwixt the Fillanee and another people
+called Boolamas, lay the great river Loro, which, descending from
+the north-west, was at this point joined by <em>several other great
+rivers</em>, coming from the north-east. At this position there is
+a large island called Wadamsera, the capital of which is called
+Oendera, or Wandera. The inhabitants were great traders, and
+carried on a brisk trade with the opposite banks of the river: what
+is more remarkable, they were partly Negroes and partly Arabs, but
+all Mahommedans. It is impossible not to recognize in<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> this account the junction of
+the Gir and the Niger. The Fillanee country lay 400 miles
+north-east of Greghwee; between it and the Boolamas lay the river
+Loro. This term Boolamas does not apply to any particular nation,
+but it is evidently of the same signification as Boolas, which,
+according to Bowditch, is a term of reproach which the inhabitants
+of the sea-coasts, who account themselves more civilized, apply to
+the slaves brought from these interior parts, as well as to the
+population thereof in general. One hundred miles farther to the
+north-east of Fillanee would bring us to the river in question,
+beyond which are these Boolamas, or savage people, which will
+correspond with that country already mentioned where it is said
+they devour their prisoners. The direction and distance from
+Greghwee, as given to Robertson, would thus agree very accurately
+with the point where the junction is supposed to take place, and
+where, it is extremely probable, that an island may be formed. The
+fact also mentioned, that the population of this island are all
+Mahommedans, a circumstance unknown in the middle course of the
+Niger, proves the existence of an easy communication between this
+place and the north-east parts of Africa, which could only be by
+water. Park’s guide distinctly informed him, that, on going down
+the Niger, as far as he knew it, they would touch on the
+Moors<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> no where else
+but at Timbuctoo. Shabeeny also distinctly states that “no Arabs
+are found on the banks of the Nile.” (<em>Jack. Shabeeny</em>.)
+Sidi Hamed shews this to be correct, when he laments so
+pathetically, that the population of Wassanah were ignorant of the
+true faith. The fact of a water communication with the distant N.E.
+parts of Africa, is otherwise clearly established. Robertson met on
+the coast, two intelligent Arabs, who came from a country which lay
+<em>five moons</em> journey distant, in a N.E. direction from
+Lagos. These men stated that “they <em>came a great part of the way
+by water</em>, in canoes hired from the chiefs of the country
+through which they passed.” From the description which they gave of
+their country, where “all the gentlemen could read and write, and
+where <em>camels</em>, horses, and cattle of all descriptions were
+plenty,” (<em>Robertson</em>, p. 288, 289.) it is evident their
+country must be Bornou. Other authorities, from accounts similarly
+obtained, give us the like information.</p>
+
+<p>Descending southward from its junction with the Gir and other
+rivers, the Niger, pursuing his course first south, and then
+south-west, approaches the low lands in the country of Benin. Here
+the stream separates, as is the case with other large rivers, into
+several large branches, which take their course to the sea in
+different directions. Those<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_123">[123]</span> again divide into numerous small branches,
+which intersect the coast in every direction. The inhabitants of
+Bonny or Bannee river, who traded into the interior by means of
+that river, state, that the Bonny “<em>came out of a large river in
+the interior, which made all the rivers in that country</em>.”
+(<em>Robertson</em>, p. 298.) This is positive testimony to an
+important circumstance, which the natural features of the country
+rendered probable. From other accounts which Robertson obtained, it
+would appear that the Niger, before it approaches the sea, forms a
+lake called Issebee, from whence the river issues in three streams,
+which bend their course south-easterly to the sea, and a fourth
+which flows westerly to Lagos. This lake may be 200 miles east from
+the latter place, considering the time the travellers took to
+descend from it to the sea in August when “<em>the water ran
+fast</em>.” Of its magnitude we are wholly ignorant. It is well
+known that the same term in Arabic denotes both a lake and a large
+river, and the Arabs use the same often without discrimination.
+From a circumstance regarding this lake, namely, that, during the
+night, the canoes near the shore were carried backwards almost as
+far as these had advanced down the middle of the stream during the
+day, (an occurrence which was believed to be the work of some evil
+spirit,) it would appear that it is merely the reach<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> of a great river. Such a
+phenomenon Tuckey found at every reach in the Congo. The lake
+Issebee, therefore, may only be the undivided trunk of the mighty
+Niger. If the accounts is correct, this lake, or separation of the
+stream, will be in about 7° 20′ north latitude, and 6° 40′ east
+longitude.</p>
+
+<p>The country through which the Niger here flows is very level.
+The mountains, however, are at no very great distance northward
+from Benin. These mountains are represented by the natives as
+stretching eastward from the Kong range, and forming a kind of
+amphitheatre to the northward. Encircling Benin, they descend
+south-easterly, till they are merged in the high land, stretching
+north from Cameroons. This is particularly mentioned by Joannes
+Bleav<a id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class=
+"fnanchor">[7]</a>, and also by Robertson. The general features of
+the country render this very probable. A small stream joins the
+Niger at Wauwa. Near Goodeberry, we are informed by Bowditch, there
+runs a river called Leeäsa, but what course it takes we are
+uncertain. It is possible it may be the Kakoa, on which is situated
+the Fillanee, as mentioned by Robertson. There is, however, no
+certainty on this point, and the Kakoa may be a branch of the
+Niger, or even the Niger itself,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_125">[125]</span> though different circumstances lead me to
+suppose that it is a distinct river, which joins the Niger in or
+near the territories of Benin.</p>
+
+<p>Before turning our attention to the coast, it is of consequence
+to consider the explanation which Mr. Jackson gives of the Arabic
+words Bahr Kulla. The term, he says, in proper Arabic, is <em>Bahar
+Kûlha</em>, which term signifies the Ocean; and also, an alluvial
+country. If this explanation is correct, and which there seems
+little reason to doubt, we have the clearest account of the
+termination of the Niger. Numerous authorities state, that, in its
+middle course, it turns to the southward, and flows till it joins
+the Bahr Kulha, the sea, or the alluvial country. This it certainly
+does do at the points we have mentioned, and which we are about to
+consider. It may be necessary further to observe, on what Mr.
+Bowditch was informed, namely, that, close to the northward of
+Houssa, were two large lakes; “one called Balahar Sudan, and the
+other Girrigee Marragassee.” (<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 198.) The
+first, as Mr. Jackson distinctly states, is clearly a negro
+corruption of the words Bahar Sudan, and the other, he supposes, is
+a negro name for the same sea. Bowditch, there is the greatest
+reason to believe, has completely mistaken the information
+concerning the position of this lake, or lakes, which must be to
+the southward of <em>the country of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_126">[126]</span> Houssa</em>, and not to the northward of
+the city of that name. He has been led into the error by taking the
+city for the country of Houssa, and from not adverting to the
+misapprehension which both negroes and Arabs are so apt to
+entertain on these subjects. The greatest care is necessary in
+order to make them state bearings and positions of places
+conformably to our mode of expressing these things. They very
+frequently, in their figures of speech, reverse them. Thus, the
+shores of the Atlantic Ocean which bound Africa, are called by them
+the western shores of that sea. “The <em>western</em> border of the
+ambient sea,” says Abulfeda, “namely, that which washes Africa and
+Spain, is the Ocean,” &amp;c. We call it the eastern. Here they
+seem to look to the land, and we to the sea. By applying this rule
+to Bowditch’s account of the lake north of Houssa, we will see more
+satisfactorily that he has just reversed its position. Situate to
+the south of the country of Houssa, it may be either the Lybia
+Palus of Ptolemy, or else the gulf of Guinea, which, after all,
+there is reason to believe, will turn out to be the true sea of
+Sudan.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding further, it may be observed, that the Niger,
+about Yaoora and Boussa, is called Kood, Kaoda, and Coudha, a term
+of similar import as Quolla. It is not easy to determine, whether
+the Arabs apply the term Coudha to the Niger,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_127">[127]</span> or to the eastern river, or to both
+streams indiscriminately. It is evident, from the manuscript which
+gives the account of Park’s death, that the term is applied to the
+Niger, because he was on the Niger. But to whichever of the rivers
+it is applied, or, if applied to both, it is clear they communicate
+with each other. Shereef Brahima, an intelligent Arab, informed Mr.
+Bowditch, that the water of the Coudha goes to lake Caudee, or
+Fittre; but he enables us to understand distinctly what he means by
+that expression, when he says that lake Caudee is “<em>the mother
+of Coudha</em>,” or, in other words, that the Coudha flows westward
+from the lake, instead of eastward into it. From the same
+authority, we learn, that between Gamba and the <em>extremity</em>
+of Coudha at Yaoora, the traveller passes four rivers, namely,
+Kadarkoo, Doodirba, Shawanka, and Wada rivers, at the distances as
+marked on the map. Of their course and magnitude we have no
+information; but it is probable that the former is to the south or
+south-east, and that one of them, namely, the Wada, is the same as
+the Leeäsa river. The distance from Yahndi to each corresponds very
+accurately. By this information we are enabled to fill up another
+blank in the geography of Africa, and to fix, with considerable
+accuracy, the features of the country, and the course which the
+various rivers take in those parts of that continent.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="map2">
+<p class="cpm1">The Coast<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>FROM</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+CRADOO LAKE<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+to the<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+HIGHLAND OF CAMEROONS<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>from the</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+African Pilot</p>
+
+<p class="cpm1">W. H. Lizars Sculp<sup>t</sup>.</p>
+
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Page 128.</em>
+</p>
+<a href="images/map2_large.jpg"><img src='images/map2.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span><a id=
+"c4"></a>CHAP IV.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Bights of Benin and Biafra — Rio de Formosa —
+Delta of Benin — Innumerable Rivers — Rio Forcados — Gatto Creek —
+Cape Formosa — Rivers East — New Calabar and Bonny River; their
+great magnitude — Old Calabar and Cross Rivers — Rio Elrei — Salt
+Ground — Great Trade in Salt — Face of the Country in the Delta —
+Trade to these Places — Inundation of the Rivers — Time of ditto —
+Shews they are different from either the Congo or the Egyptian Nile
+— Currents in the Sea near the Coast — Number and Magnitude of the
+Rivers in the Delta — Breadth — Depth — Trade — Natives into the
+Interior — a Race of People almost White — Leucæ Ethiopians of
+Ptolemy — General Observations on the N.E. and North parts of
+Central Africa — Accounts of Travellers — Kong — What it means —
+Great Magnitude of the Niger, and his Tributary Streams — Length of
+course — Compared to Magnitude of Bahr-el-Abiad at Shilluk — Cannot
+be the same Stream — No Connection with that River.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">L<span class="sc">et</span> us now turn our
+attention to the rivers which enter the Ocean in the Bights of
+Benin and Biafra. Of the larger branches the Rio de Formosa, though
+not the largest, may be considered the parent stream from which all
+the others are deflections. At its mouth it is three and a half
+British miles broad, with two bars of mud, on which there is 13
+feet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> water. Besides
+numerous creeks which issue from it, a very large, deep, and
+navigable branch flows into the lake Cradoo, which communicates
+with the Lagos river near its junction with the Sea. The space
+betwixt them, according to the French maps, drawn for the French
+Marine service, under the late Emperor, is filled with low islands;
+and several rivers from the northward fall into the lake, or sound
+mentioned, betwixt the Rio de Formosa, and the Rio Lagos. The
+account which Bosman gives of the Rio de Formosa, is the most
+particular and satisfactory which I have met with. “Upwards,” say
+she, “it is sometimes broader, and sometimes narrower. It sprouts
+<em>into innumerable branches</em>, some of which may very well
+deserve the name of rivers.” About five miles from its mouth, it
+throws off two branches within two miles of each other. Agatton,
+the chief place of trade, is situated sixty Dutch miles (220
+British,) up the river, and on a Peninsula formed by it. “<em>So
+far, and yet farther, ships may conveniently come, sailing by
+hundreds of branches of the river, besides creeks, some of which
+are very wide</em>. Its branches extend into all the circumjacent
+countries. The country all about is divided into islands, by the
+multiplicity of its branches.” The Portuguese, who had settlements
+inland, and were well acquainted with those parts, affirm that “it
+was easy, with a canoe, to get from the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_130">[130]</span> Rio de Formosa into the circumjacent
+rivers, viz. the Rio Lagos, Rio Volta, Elrei, New Calabar, Bonny,
+and other rivers. The Rio de Formosa meanders through a fine
+fertile country, and brings down innumerable floating islands of
+considerable extent on its waves. On the north side, the river is
+joined by the Gatto creek, which may be the termination of a river
+descending from the north, perhaps the Kakoa heard of by Robertson.
+The Rio dos Forcados, apparently a mighty stream, no doubt branches
+off from the Rio de Formosa, after the streams running south-east
+have separated. South of the Rio dos Forcados, is a lake of
+considerable magnitude, which communicates with the sea, west of
+Cape Formosa, and also with the New Calabar river. The number of
+rivers which enter the sea from the Rio de Formosa to Cape Formosa,
+is six.</p>
+
+<p>Passing Cape Formosa eastward, besides creeks, we have six
+rivers, which, at their mouth are all navigable. Beyond these, we
+come to the great estuary of New Calabar, and Bonny, or Bannee
+rivers. These streams form a junction near the sea, the one forming
+an island on the east side of the estuary, and the other an island
+on the west side thereof. The New Calabar river comes from the
+N.N.W. and the Bannee from the N.E. apparently at no great distance
+from each other; but still between<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_131">[131]</span> them some streams from the north enter the
+sound formed by their junction. This grand estuary is eleven miles
+broad, very deep, and navigable for ships of heavy tonnage. On the
+west side is a bank of sand, thrown up by the action of the river
+and the sea. In some places it has thirty feet water on it. The New
+Calabar river, opposite to the town, and 40 miles from the sea, is
+six fathoms deep. In it, however, are many flats with only 16 feet
+water. The Bonny river is perhaps the most powerful branch: it
+divides, and forms an island about twenty five miles long, and
+twelve broad; the eastern branch, a very considerable stream,
+entering the sea under the name of Andonny, or St. Anthony’s river.
+The town of Bonny is situated on this island, which is almost level
+with the water, and a great part of it is flooded during the
+inundation. Inland, however, the inhabitants assert that the land
+becomes more dry, and the country free from those pestilential
+vapours which are generated amidst the swamps immediately adjoining
+the sea. The current out of the mouth of the united streams of the
+Bonny and New Calabar rivers is strong and rapid; and it is
+asserted that they discharge as much water as the great river
+Congo.</p>
+
+<p>Thirty-two miles eastward from Andonny river, we come to the
+estuary of Cross river, and Old Calabar, or Bongo river. This
+estuary is twelve miles<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_132">[132]</span> broad; but it may be considered as an arm
+of the sea rather than the mouth of a river, though the above
+rivers fall into it. This inlet penetrates into the country nearly
+100 miles. At a considerable distance up this inlet, Old Calabar
+river is found to enter from the east. Its width and magnitude are
+considerable; but, tracing it eastward and upward on its course, it
+is, according to some authorities, found to pass over a large
+cataract which stops the navigation, and which indicates a course
+not of great length. Cross river is a branch of the Niger: our best
+charts represent it as coming from the N.E. This evidently is
+wrong, and should, I apprehend, be from the N.W. This Robertson
+asserts, and the name seems to bear him out; for it is by this
+stream that merchandize is transported from Old Calabar river to
+Bonny river, and the parent stream, the Niger, in order to be
+carried into the interior. Therefore, perhaps, it is named “Cross
+river.” In the French maps already mentioned, both these rivers are
+laid down as coming, the Old Calabar directly from the north, and
+the Cross river joining it from the N.W. In the latter, they are
+certainly correct. How far they are so regarding the former, future
+researches can only determine.</p>
+
+<p>A small peninsula divides the mouth of the latter rivers from
+the outlet of the Rio Elrei. The<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_133">[133]</span> estuary, or arm of the sea into which it
+falls, is ten miles broad. Both estuaries are very deep, and the
+navigation of either is safe. According to the accounts transmitted
+to the African Association by Nicholls, the traveller who fell a
+victim to the climate in endeavouring to explore this river, the
+Elrei comes from the eastward, and joins the sound, or arm of the
+sea, north of the high land of Rumby. Advancing up the river to the
+eastward, the land rises rapidly, and the Elrei becomes full of
+cataracts and rocks, obstructing the navigation. This shews that
+the sources both of it and the Bongo, or Old Calabar river, comes
+from the bosom of that mighty chain of hills which we shall
+presently see terminate on the coast a little to the southward.
+These rivers will thus be found to come from the south side of the
+mount Thala of Ptolemy. For the reasons mentioned, namely,
+cataracts and rapids, it is obvious that neither of these rivers
+can be branches of the Niger.</p>
+
+<p>The country round the Rio de Formosa is uncommonly beautiful.
+Hence the name. It is also very populous; but, from being so low
+and swampy, it is very unhealthy for Europeans. The same may be
+said of the whole extent of coast intersected by the above
+mentioned rivers. The country to the northward, between the Rio de
+Formosa and Ardrah, is without hills, but, rising in a gentle
+swell,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> affords the
+finest prospect in the world. Inland, the country becomes more
+healthy, and the climate good. The land is extremely fertile. The
+trees are uncommonly large and beautiful. Cotton of the finest
+quality is amazingly plentiful; and indigo and other dye stuffs are
+to be had in abundance. The feathered tribes are innumerable.
+Horses, cows, and sheep are seen in great numbers. Weaving, and
+dressing of leather, are understood and practised. The Jaboos, an
+industrious people, carry on a great trade in grain, between Benin
+and Lagos. Benin is about ten miles from the river. Agatton is the
+port of the city. Benin is still a considerable place, though much
+decayed. The streets are long and broad; and it has regular markets
+every morning and evening. The houses, though built of clay, are
+handsome. Benin, when the Portuguese first discovered this part of
+Africa, was a powerful empire, extending westward to Elmina, and so
+far into the interior, as to be known to an empire distant twenty
+moons journey, in a N.E. direction, whose sovereign, being a
+Christian, it is supposed could only be Abyssinia. The extent of
+Benin is still considerable, their dominions extending twenty days’
+journey from south to north. It claims sovereignty over New Calabar
+and Bonny.</p>
+
+<p>The trade to these parts of the coast of Africa is very
+considerable, and annually increasing. The<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_135">[135]</span> number of slaves annually exported from
+Bonny, and Old Calabar rivers, were formerly, and still continue to
+be, very great. They are chiefly brought from the interior by a
+water conveyance. The people are every where fond of trade,
+generally civil and obliging to Europeans who deal honestly; and
+they are anxious to cultivate commercial connections with them. All
+around the Delta, the population on the sea coast are busily
+employed in making salt for the interior market. In the kingdom of
+Qua, situated between the Andonny and Old Calabar river, this is
+particularly the case. The land on the coast is called the <em>salt
+ground</em>, and is, perhaps, the place where Ibn-al-Vardi mentions
+the numerous salt-pits on the shore of the sea. This salt is
+carried into the interior, along with other merchandize, in canoes
+or vessels, built around Bonny river, so large as to contain 200
+people, and having a cannon placed on each end. They are covered
+with hides to keep them dry. (<em>Robertson</em>, p. 308.) Boussa,
+on the Niger, is a great emporium for this trade, and the place
+where the people from the sea-coast meet the caravans from Barbary,
+to exchange their merchandize. (<em>Robertson</em>, p. 301 and
+209.) The natives on these coasts also talk familiarly of their
+trade, intercourse, and communication with Houssa and Timbuctoo.
+West of the New Calabar river also, is a country famous for the
+manufacture of salt, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_136">[136]</span> called the brass-pan country, from the
+great demand for articles of this description from Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers on the Bights of Benin and Biafra are in flood from
+May till December, but the height of the inundation is during the
+months of July and August. Then the Rio de Formosa covers all the
+land as far as Gatto, forty miles from its mouth, and fifteen from
+its bed. The inhabitants amongst the islands formed by its numerous
+branches, erect temporary villages, in which they live during the
+dry season, but which are all swept away during the rains. Such
+also is the situation of the country round the mouths of the New
+Calabar and Bonny Rivers, and, in fact, throughout all these
+coasts. Inland, the overflow of the river is very great; but we
+have no accurate account of the height. Shabeeny says, that it is
+so great that all the sheep, camels, goats, and horses, which feed
+on the banks of the river when low, are removed to the uplands
+during the flood. The land is constantly gaining on the sea, from
+the quantity of alluvial matter brought down by the different
+streams. Places near the mouth of Bonny River, which, within the
+recollection of traders of the present day, were stagnant pools,
+are now become dry and cultivated ground. In this manner, and
+during a succession of ages, has all the land in the Delta of Benin
+been formed. Every one of the natives<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_137">[137]</span> on these coasts agree in stating, that, in
+the interior, near Benin, a great river from the northward throws
+off three branches, which pursue a southerly course to the sea, and
+one branch which runs westward to Lagos.</p>
+
+<p>The time of the inundation of these rivers shew in the clearest
+manner that they can have no communication with the Congo. Their
+rise begins in May, and is at the height in July and August. The
+Congo does not begin to rise at the distance of 200 miles from its
+mouth, till the beginning of September. The distance from the Bight
+of Biafra, or the point eastward and inland, over which the Niger,
+if it flowed south to the Congo, would have to pass to the point
+where Tuckey first perceived the rise of the latter, is only about
+560 miles. The current in flood from six to seven miles per hour,
+as Park found it in the Niger, (without reckoning any accelerated
+rapidity from rocks and cataracts) would reach the spot mentioned
+by Tuckey, in the Congo, in four days, and in six days, allowing
+one-third more for the turnings and windings of the river. For
+similar reasons, the Niger cannot be the Nile, because that river
+reaches its greatest height in Egypt, by the time the flood in the
+Niger is at its height about Yaoora, which is 4000 miles distant
+from Egypt, by the supposed course of the river, and one third
+more, making a moderate allowance for<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_138">[138]</span> turnings and windings. The height of the
+flood also in the Bights of Benin and Biafra, being in August, is a
+most convincing proof that the waters which occasion it, come from
+places far to the northward and westward of nine or ten degrees of
+latitude, and in the same meridians, because the rains in the same
+parallels of latitude as the mouths of these rivers, are greatest
+in May and June. Their violence is past before August, whereas in
+the parallels between 10° and 20° north latitude, their violence is
+greatest in July and August. This being the case, shews that the
+height of the flood from those waters which pass Timbuctoo, and
+which come from Dar Saley, cannot be before August in the Bights of
+Benin and Biafra.</p>
+
+<p>From the immense volumes of fresh water poured into the sea on
+these coasts, the currents are rendered exceedingly strong, and the
+swell and agitation of the waves very great and dangerous. The
+current in the sea sets to the northward, from the Congo along the
+coast of Africa, till it approaches the Bight of Biafra. Thence it
+is bent westward, through the Bight of Benin, and along the coast
+of Guinea. From the mouth of the Rio de Formosa it runs
+particularly strong to the westward. Bosman describes the excessive
+roll and turnings of the sea in this part in the strongest
+language: “The tide, from the eastward,” he says,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> “is so strong, that no shallop
+can stem it by rowing.” Having gained the shore through these
+terribly agitated waters, is, he says, to have “<em>passed from
+hell to heaven</em>.” Similar tides, swells, and currents, are
+invariably found off the mouths of large rivers, particularly all
+such as are flooded by the tropical rains. The mouths of the
+Maranon, the Orinoco, and the Ganges, have all similar phenomena
+near them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw2">
+<figure id="map3">
+<p class="cpm1">CALABAR<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">And</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+Bonny Rivers.<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+Surveyed by<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">Capt<sup>n</sup>. Newton</span><br class=
+"x-ebookmaker-drop">
+W. H. Lizars Sculp<sup>t</sup>.</p>
+
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Page 139.</em>
+</p>
+<a href="images/map3_large.jpg"><img src='images/map3.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we reflect, for a moment, on the number and magnitude of
+the rivers which join the sea in the Delta of Benin, we are filled
+with wonder and amazement. From the Rio Lagos to the mouth of the
+Cross river inclusive, the number exceeds 20. The breadth of their
+surfaces connected together, would exhibit an expanse of fresh
+water perhaps 50 miles broad. Three of these only, viz. the Rio de
+Formosa, the chief outlet of the Bonny, and the estuary of the Old
+Calabar and Cross rivers, would make 27 miles. The depth of these
+rivers greatly exceeds that of other rivers of the first magnitude
+at their mouths. Thus, the Rio de Formosa has 13 feet water on the
+bars at its outlet, and deepens to several fathoms as it leaves the
+coast. The mouth of the New Calabar and Bonny has 7, 8, 10, 12,
+and, considerably upwards in the Bonny river, 18 fathoms; while the
+New Calabar, 40 miles from the sea, is six and seven fathoms deep.
+The chief mouth of the Orinoco has only<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_140">[140]</span> 17 feet water on the bar, and the navigable
+part is no more than three miles broad. The Mississippi enters the
+sea by six channels, the two principal of which have only 12 feet
+water on the bar in each. Thus the outlets of the Niger greatly
+exceed either of these mighty rivers in the depth of their mouths.
+The distance from the source of the Missouri to the mouths of the
+Mississippi exceeds 4000 miles. The Delta formed by the Niger,
+exceeds in extent that formed by the Ganges, the Mississippi, the
+Orinoco, or the Wolga. In difference of longitude the Delta of
+Benin is nearly 260 miles. That of the Ganges, much larger than any
+of the others, is 200 miles. The navigation also of the outlets of
+every one of these mighty rivers is much more obstructed than the
+navigation in the mouths of the Niger. They have less water, and
+are more intricate and dangerous than either the Rio Lagos, the Rio
+de Formosa, the Bonny, and Old Calabar rivers. Of the depth of the
+Niger in the interior we are wholly ignorant; but, judging by the
+depth and magnitude of its branches at their mouths, we may form
+some idea of the depth of the united stream: It must be great.
+Inland, the Niger, before it is joined by any of the eastern
+rivers, is represented as two and three miles broad, and in its
+lower course five miles. (<em>Bowditch</em>, p. 201.) The united
+stream of the Orinoco at St. Thomas’ is four<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_141">[141]</span> miles broad, and 65 fathoms deep, when
+the stream is lowest. The Ganges, inland, is three miles broad, and
+ten fathoms deep, when in flood. The united stream of the
+Mississippi, at New Orleans, is nearly one mile broad, and 20
+fathoms deep. Higher up its breadth is rather more than a mile in
+some places, and from 200 feet to 35 feet deep. If we calculate
+from its breadth, the Niger will yield to none of these rivers in
+depth. The extent of country from whence it collects its waters,
+is, in breadth from east to west, greater than that part of South
+America which forms the immense Maranon; but, except in the
+meridian of Benin, little more than one-half the extent from north
+to south. The features, however, throughout the greater part, are
+of the same stupendous and magnificent description which are met
+with in those parts of South America. From the sources of the
+Misselad to the junction of the great eastern river with the Niger,
+the length of the Gir will, on general bearings, exceed 1600 miles.
+The Niger itself has a still longer course; and the stream that
+descends from Dar Kulla will have a course of 1000 miles to the
+place where it unites its waters with the former streams. Although
+the clearest information which we can obtain, leads us to fix the
+junction of these mighty rivers at the point mentioned, yet it is
+by no means<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span>
+improbable that this junction may take place lower down, or in the
+alluvial country nearer the sea.</p>
+
+<p>It has been, and at various periods, stated, that vessels of
+considerable burden, navigated with sails and oars, and some of
+them manned by white people, came up the Niger from the eastward to
+Timbuctoo. Mandingo merchants informed de la Brue at Galam, that,
+some leagues from Timbuctoo, the Niger was navigated by “<em>masted
+vessels</em>.” Dr. Laidley, who resided long at Pisania, was
+informed, that vessels of 100 tons burden frequented Houssa, by
+which might be meant the country as well as the city of Houssa. A
+priest, who had visited Timbuctoo, informed Mr. Park, that “the
+canoes on the Niger were large and not made of a single tree, but
+of various planks united, and navigated <em>by white people</em>.”
+Major Houghton was informed by a Shereef whom he met with at
+Medina, and who had formerly known the Major when he was British
+Consul at Morocco, and who had been at Timbuctoo, that “they had
+decked vessels with masts, with which they carry on trade from
+Timbuctoo, eastward to the centre of Africa.” The crews of these
+vessels have been stated sometimes to exceed 150. These things were
+considered as fables. Late accounts, however, explain these
+relations in a satisfactory manner, and also confirm<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> the accuracy of the earliest
+accounts which we have of Africa. Robertson has informed us of the
+great magnitude of the canoes or vessels built about Bonny river.
+We hear of no such vessels employed on either the Rio Grande, the
+Gambia, or the Senegal. With these vessels they trade up the river
+into the interior. He also states, that the natives from Tebo to
+the north of Benin “are <em>whiter than Arabs</em>, but are silky
+haired; and that the people on the coast give them the same
+appellation as white men, namely, <em>Evoo</em>.” These people are
+great traders, and go far into the interior; and there is no doubt
+but that it has been some of these people, with the large vessels
+mentioned, which have, at different times, made their appearance at
+Timbuctoo. It is far from being improbable also, but that they are
+“the particular kind of people” mentioned by Jackson, and the
+“white people” who dress in the style of Barbary Moors, and wear
+turbans, but do not speak Arabic, and who dwell on the borders of
+that lake into which the Niger discharges itself,” which Barnes
+heard of. It is very remarkable, that, in these parts of Africa,
+(for, if we examine his work accurately, we will find that it is
+hereabouts,) Ptolemy mentions and places a nation of <em>white
+Ethiopeans</em>, (Leucæ Ethiopeans.) The circumstances which we
+have mentioned prove the navigation of the Niger to be free and
+open; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> Edrisi
+distinctly states that the Gir is so also, when he mentions that
+the vessels with salt from Ulil go up the Nile through the
+provinces of Ghana, Vancara, and Kaugha. All accounts concur in
+stating that the canoes which come down the rivers from the
+interior to the coast, are large and much finer vessels than those
+generally used on the south or the west coasts of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Some articles of European manufacture found in the interior also
+establish the fact of this channel of communication. Thus the
+schoolmaster at Tripoli informed Mr. Ritchie, that the uniforms of
+the King’s guards at Timbuctoo were red; and “that they were armed
+with musquets brought from the great Sea.” This must be the Bight
+of Benin, to which Europeans carry a great quantity of fire-arms.
+These articles do not come from the northward, for L’Hage Shabeeny
+expressly states that the traders from Morocco to Timbuctoo
+“<em>carry neither swords, musquets, nor knives, except such as are
+wanted in the caravan</em>.” (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>, p. 21.)
+The reason for this is obvious, for, if they carried these
+articles, they would arm and enable the Negroes to defend
+themselves, which is not the policy of either Moors or Arabs.
+Consequently, these articles must come through countries where
+neither of these nations possess any influence. All these things
+prove, in the clearest manner, the open, easy, and
+extensive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>
+communication by water, from the coast adjoining Benin, with the
+interior; a communication only found on this part of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>In the northern, and north-eastern parts of central Africa, from
+Mourzook, to Darfur, and from the mountains of Eyrè to Timbuctoo,
+instead of burning deserts, and sterile wastes, and boundless
+swamps, we now, from good authority, find that there are numerous,
+powerful, fertile, cultivated, well wooded, watered, populous, and
+industrious states. Every where mighty rivers, from the east, from
+the north, and from the west, are found pursuing their course to
+the ocean, and verging to one grand point. Benin, Bornou, Asben,
+Bagherme, Dar Saley, Darfur, Kashna, Houssa, Timbuctoo, Sego, and
+Wassanah, and many others, are populous kingdoms, abounding in
+metals, minerals, fruits, grain, cattle, animals wild and tame.
+Kashna comprehends 1000 towns and villages. The population of
+Timbuctoo is estimated on the lowest scale at 50,000. Houssa is
+still larger. Wassanah nearly double, and Bornou still more
+extensive. The sovereign of Houssa, according to Shabeeny, can
+raise 70,000 horsemen, and 100,000 infantry. I am aware much must
+be allowed for Negro amplification, but still sufficient remains to
+shew us the importance of these places. Beyond Kashna, the camel,
+“<em>that ship of the desert</em>,” is no longer found;
+thus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> ceasing to be
+produced where his labours could no longer be generally useful or
+necessary, and in countries where he is not calculated to live.
+After passing Kashna to the southward and south-westward, the face
+of the country changes greatly. It becomes less open, and more
+intersected with great rivers, inundated roads, prodigious forests,
+and stupendous mountains, all the way to the gold coast. All these
+countries, all Central Africa, abounds with the elements of
+commerce; and her noble rivers afford the easiest, the safest, the
+cheapest, and most expeditious roads for the collecting and the
+conveyance of these. In all things, it is superior to what any
+portion of America, in the same parallels, or indeed in any
+parallel, afforded when Europeans first visited that quarter of the
+globe.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the Gir, or Nile of Sudan, as delineated on the
+map accompanying this work, it may be observed, that it is
+extremely probable the course of the stream in the middle part is
+still too much (perhaps a degree and a half) to the north. This
+would bring the lake Fittre into the latitude assigned by Ptolemy
+to the Nuba Palus. The bend, or angle formed by the river northward
+of Wara, is also, in all probability, much less acute than is
+represented on the map; and Wara is perhaps more to the west, and
+not so much to the north of Darfur. This would give the river, in
+appearance, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> more
+natural course in those parts, and which the bearings given by the
+Arabian and native merchants would admit of without unnecessarily
+wresting their meaning. The rivers that descend from the north
+would thus have a greater space to traverse before these joined the
+Gir. On the other hand, the mountains which give these birth, may
+be more to the southward than I have placed them; and, in this
+particular, corresponding with the accounts given by Ptolemy more
+accurately than their position as supported by the testimony of
+Arab merchants. From 21° to 22° north latitude, there is reason to
+believe, is the true position of the highest chain of those natural
+barriers which divide the desert from the fruitful land. Northward,
+there is no doubt, lesser chains gradually decreasing in height,
+till these reach the desert. Northward of Ashantee, we have no
+difficulty in ascertaining the highest land. The magnitude of the
+rivers which flow S.E. point that out very distinctly. Thus we
+learn from Bowditch, (p. 171.) that at, and near Boopee, the Adirri
+and Addifoosoo, the two chief sources of the Rio Volta, are about
+120 yards broad. Lower down, and in the route from Coomassie to
+Sallagha, the rivers Kirradee, and Oboosoom, running S.E. are each
+about 60 yards broad. These things are sure guides in determining
+the most elevated parts of the country. Independent of the positive
+testimony of Sidi<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span>
+Hamed, regarding the very high ridges of mountains in the central
+parts of Africa, with other concurrent circumstances, we have the
+positive testimony of various other intelligent Arabian travellers
+and merchants, that stupendous mountains cover these parts of
+Africa. Leo informs us that Guber is environed with mountains; and
+from Cashna, southward to Ashantee, all authorities agree in
+stating that prodigious high hills raise their lofty heads
+throughout all the space mentioned. The country northward from
+Ashantee to Sego and Jinnë is full of exceeding high mountains,
+which renders commercial communications almost impracticable. On
+the other hand, merchants and travellers who come from the country
+of Houssa, to the sea coast at Lagos and Bonny, make no mention of
+any particular chain of mountains, or inconvenience therefrom to
+travellers; but speak of heights, and complain chiefly of
+interruption and difficulties arising from large rivers, lakes, and
+morasses. This shews the parts of the country where the mountains
+become less elevated, and the land more open, thus affording an
+easy passage for the mighty rivers in their course to the
+ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The word Kong is Mandingo, and signifies a mountainous country,
+and not one particular ridge. Did an impenetrable ridge, as is
+imagined, extend from Kong in 10° north latitude to Komri in 7°
+degrees north latitude,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_149">[149]</span> then the distance from its summit to Benin
+would not exceed 240 geographic miles. In such a distance, it is
+utterly impossible that so many, or indeed any one of the great
+rivers which enter the sea through the Delta of Benin, could be
+formed. From the westward none of them does or can come; and from
+the east it is equally obvious that they cannot flow. All this
+portion of Africa is mountainous; but it is evident these mountains
+admit a passage for the united waters of the Niger and the Gir from
+the northward, which, emerging from the mountainous districts, flow
+through a level country, and, in the lapse of ages, have formed the
+alluvial Delta of Benin.</p>
+
+<p>In the Bights of Biafra and Benin, therefore, is the great
+outlet of the Niger, bearing along, in his majestic stream, all the
+waters of Central Africa, from 10° west longitude to 28° east
+longitude, and from the Tropic of Cancer to the shores of Benin. It
+is certain it is navigable from Balia, for Park informs us canoes
+can pass the rapids at Marraboo. This celebrated traveller
+descended the stream in safety to Boussa, where an accident
+terminated his life. The traders from the coast go up the river
+above this place. The course of the Niger will greatly resemble, on
+the map, that of the Orinoco of South America, and the length from
+the extreme sources (and those nearest its mouth) will be, on
+general<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> bearings,
+2250 geographic, or about 2600 British miles. The cannon,
+therefore, which thundered at Aboukir, and made the Nile
+tremble—those cannon which burst asunder, for ever, the chains of
+Christian slavery at Algiers, and which bore the fame of
+Britain<a id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class=
+"fnanchor">[8]</a> into the deepest recesses of Africa, may in
+safety awaken with their echoes, to obedience and respect, the
+uncivilized, or half civilized, nations of all Central Africa.</p>
+
+<p>We have noticed, and from sure authority, the magnitude of the
+Niger at Bammakoo—in flood, one mile broad. At the ferry in the
+route to Houssa, it is described as two miles broad; at Yaoora,
+three miles. In other places it is stated by the Moors as five
+miles broad. We have noticed the magnitude of the Gir, the Shary,
+and the Tzad, in the early part of their courses—we have noticed
+the probable magnitude of the Bahr Kulla and the supposed Gulbe,
+all uniting in the Gir, which, where it passes through part of
+Kashna, with a rapid current, is twenty-three to twenty-four feet
+deep, and very wide; and having considered these things
+minutely,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> it is
+obvious that the united flood (making large allowances for African
+amplification,) must form a river equalled by few, very few, on
+this globe. The Maranon alone can exceed it. Neither sands can
+absorb, nor lakes contain, such streams. When Bowditch mentioned to
+the Arabs whom he met with at Ashantee, the European theory, that
+the Niger was lost in lakes or sands, they expressed the utmost
+astonishment. “God,” they said, “made all the great rivers to flow
+into the sea, and did Europeans think that he made the Quolla
+(Niger,) the greatest of them all, to be lost in the sands of the
+desert.”</p>
+
+<p>It has been argued that the diminished size of the Bahr-el-Abiad
+at Shilluk, compared with that of the Niger at Bammakoo, and more
+eastward in its course, was easily accounted for by evaporation.
+This argument might have been allowed some weight, had it been
+shewn that the supposed course of the Niger from Timbuctoo to
+Shilluk lay through countries as dry and sandy as those countries
+are through which the Nile flows from Shilluk to the shores of
+Egypt. The reverse, however, is, from every information we can
+receive, the case. The country along the supposed course of the
+Niger, from Timbuctoo to Shilluk, is all remarkably hilly, woody,
+mountainous, in many places well cultivated, and abounding with
+large rivers, which must<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_152">[152]</span> increase, not diminish, any great river
+which flowed through it. Again, it is argued that the Bahr-el-Abiad
+being <em>full</em> all the year, is a proof that it is the Niger.
+This account, however, proves the very reverse, because the Niger
+is not <em>full</em>, or in flood, (for so those who reason thus
+would take the expression used by Bruce,) all the year, but only
+during a part thereof. The expression, “full all the year,”
+however, does not mean that the Bahr-el-Abiad is in perpetual
+flood, but that it does not diminish in size during the dry season
+so much as the Bahr-el-Azreek, and other streams that flow from the
+south-eastward. That this is the true meaning of the expression is
+obvious, for Bruce also expressly states that “<em>all</em> the
+rivers in these parts fail when the sun goes South of the
+line.”</p>
+
+<p>This continued fullness, or rather greater copiousness of the
+stream, during the dry season, in comparison with the eastern
+branches of the Nile, proves to a demonstration that the chief
+branches of the Bahr-el-Abiad either spring greatly to the
+southward, (some of them most probably do,) near the equator, or
+else considerably to the south-westward of Shilluk, amidst
+stupendous mountains covered with impenetrable forests, where the
+sun’s rays, during the dry season, have no influence in lessening
+the damps and moisture which give vigour to the springs, and where
+also the height of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span>
+the mountains may be such, as melting snows may at all times add
+resources to the stream. From Donga, where the Bahr-el-Abiad is
+said to rise, to Shilluk, is above 300 miles. In an equal space,
+and through similar countries and Alpine scenery, the Niger becomes
+a much larger river than the Bahr-el-Abiad is represented to be at
+Shilluk. At its junction with the Bahr-el-Azreek it is said to be
+three times as large as that stream when it is low. At this
+junction, which is in 16° north latitude, the Bahr-el-Azreek can be
+<em>crossed on foot, and is only mid-leg deep</em>. The magnitude,
+therefore, of the Bahr-el-Abiad, calculated by the scale given, it
+is evident, cannot be very large. Besides, the Bahr-el-Adda
+intervenes between the Bahr-el-Abiad and the conjectured course of
+the Niger southward and eastward; and whichever of the former
+streams may be chosen as the continuation of the latter, still the
+theory in question exhibits the Niger in its lower course as
+running, not down from, but up against, the hills and high lands;
+for such are, and must be, situate about the sources of either the
+Bahr-el-Adda or the Bahr-el-Abiad. The latter also is represented,
+not as a still river, but of a current so rapid that a considerable
+distance is passed over before its waters are mixed with those of
+the Bahr-el-Azreek.</p>
+
+<p>Considering all these things attentively, it is not<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> possible that the Niger, and
+its collected waters, can flow to form the Bahr-el-Abiad, or the
+Nile of Egypt. They may have a communication. That is possible, but
+not probable. They are certainly distinct rivers. Can a river which
+is a British mile broad, as the Niger is at Bammakoo, in longitude
+4° west, and latitude 13° north, flow through all Central Africa,
+passing in its progress east the parallel of 16° north latitude,
+and then returning south to 7° north latitude, through a country
+filled with stupendous mountains covered with snow, extensive
+forests, and drenched with tropical rains— Can such a river,
+receiving, as it does, and must do, mighty streams on either hand,
+flow again northward to north latitude 14°, and to the eastward as
+far as east longitude 33°; a distance, upon the general bearings of
+its course, equal to 2700 geographic (3127 British) miles; and then
+and there dwindle down to a stream such as the Bahr-el-Abiad is at
+Shilluk; the breadth of which, according to Browne, is only such
+that <em>the human features could not be distinguished, but the
+human voice could be heard, by a person on the opposite bank?</em>
+This breadth cannot exceed a quarter of a mile. The identity,
+therefore, of the Niger and the Bahr-el-Abiad, is, for this as well
+as for many other reasons too tedious to mention, altogether
+impossible. Swelled by the tropical rains, which make the
+dry-bedded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> torrents
+of the deserts of Africa become mighty streams, the Niger, with his
+accumulating, accumulated flood, would become a river of such force
+and magnitude, as would sweep all the cultivated land of Nubia bare
+as the rocks which there compose the bed of the Nile—bear Egypt and
+her cities headlong into the Mediterranean Sea, and cover
+perpetually, with its waters, all her land, fertile and sterile,
+from Rosetta “to the tower of Seyne.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span><a id=
+"c5"></a>CHAP. V.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Country south of the Elrei — High land of
+Cameroons — An extinct Volcano — Chariot of the Gods — Old
+Cameroons — Jamoor and Malemba rivers — Moöhnda or Danger river —
+Gaboon river — Nazareth, Liverpool, Bristol, and Tawney rivers —
+Congo river — Rivers west of the Rio de Formosa — Rio Lagos — Mory
+river — Country around it — Rio Volta — Boosempra, Ancobra, and
+Assinee rivers — Mesurada river — Sierra Leone — Way to explore
+Africa — Distances of places, how ascertained — How to command
+Africa — Fernando Po, a sure stronghold — Sierra Leone, a secondary
+place — A settlement inland of the greatest importance — Extent of
+country it would command — French settlement in Africa — Wish to
+extend their power in that quarter — Rivers, their great use in the
+Torrid Zone — East coast of Africa, important for Commerce — Rivers
+Zambezi and Zebee — Island of Socotora — Situation of Africa —
+Slavery — The slave trade — Extent thereof — Slavery and
+superstition scourges of Africa — How to benefit Africa —
+Colonization — Advantage of colonies — The chief strength of
+Britain — Eagerly coveted by France — Our efforts in Central Africa
+would civilize all Northern Africa — Must expect to meet
+difficulties — Perseverance will ensure success.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">I<span class="sc">t</span> is now time to turn our
+attention to the rivers south of the Elrei. But first the high land
+of Cameroons demands our attention. This part of the coast extends
+from the mouth of the Elrei to Cameroons<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_157">[157]</span> river, about 45 miles in a north north-west
+bearing. The ridge comes close to the sea. The nearest peak is a
+volcano, and is higher than the Peak of Teneriffe. A third of its
+height is above the limits of vegetation, and its top every morning
+<em>covered with snow</em>. Considering the latitude so near the
+equator, the height, before snow and ice could appear, must exceed
+16,000 feet. Still farther inland, three other peaks are
+discernible, each rising in height; for, seen from the sea, the
+most distant appears of the same height as the nearest. In the
+clear atmosphere of these latitudes, such mountains may be seen at
+a distance of 200 miles. The face of these hills does not front the
+Bight of Biafra, but fronts south south-east; as the view from old
+Cameroons river clearly establishes. It is therefore almost
+certain, that this is the termination of a mighty chain of
+mountains, which branch off from the mountains of the Moon. It
+would be contrary to all the knowledge we have of other parts of
+the globe, to suppose the mountains inland were less high than
+those on the sea-coast. Such a chain must completely bar the
+passage of any river from the northwards. This chain is distinctly
+indicated in the maps constructed from the accounts of Arabian
+geographers. The chain, no doubt, follows the course of the
+Bahr<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> Kulla; and
+thus shows how the Elrei and the Old Calabar rivers may have their
+course in elevated lands, and their springs amidst their hills. It
+also points out the deflection of the Niger to the west, as it
+descends from the north, and approaches the western extremity of
+these mountains. What we have noticed is a most extraordinary
+feature in African geography, not paralleled, I believe, in any
+other part of this globe.</p>
+
+<p>There is the strongest reason to believe, that the high land
+which we have been considering is the “Chariot of the Gods” of the
+ancients. According to Hanno it was situated in a bay or gulf. The
+flame that issued from it at night, he says, extended to the stars,
+and by day the same tremendous appearance was maintained. Hence
+that navigator called it the <em>Chariot of the Gods</em>. It is
+clear, that it was beyond, and greatly beyond “Hesperus his Horn,”
+which Ptolemy places in 8° north latitude, and 13° east longitude
+from Ferro. Whoever considers the latter author with attention,
+will readily see, that, in the place we are considering, he has
+placed his “Deorum Currus.” There is no part on the coast of Africa
+which answers so accurately to the description given by Hanno. The
+mountain is an extinct volcano, but which, in the days of Hanno,
+might have been in full activity. Nothing is more
+probable.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> The
+Bights of Benin and Biafra must have undergone great changes since
+that early period. The Delta must be greatly increased, if not, in
+a great measure, formed, during the space of 2390 years. The island
+of Fernando Po also is evidently of volcanic origin. But it is
+foreign to my purpose to enter at length into these subjects.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately south of this ridge, in 3° 40′, is Old Cameroons
+river, about two miles broad. It is navigable upwards, for vessels
+drawing 18 feet water. About 3° 20′ north latitude we have the
+great estuary of Old Cameroons, or Jamoor, and Malemba rivers. The
+extreme breadth is 12 miles. It communicates with Old Cameroons by
+Bimbia and other creeks. At a short distance from the sea, is an
+island between the Jamoor and Malemba rivers, on which the town of
+Cameroons is situated. The natives say, that all these three rivers
+come from one parent stream in the interior; but of whose source
+they are ignorant, as it was far distant. Southward, the coast
+rises into a table land, extremely beautiful, and very healthy.
+Passing Cape Claro, in 1° 10′ north latitude, we have Moöhnda, or
+Danger River, a deep and powerful stream, navigable for vessels of
+any burden. Its entrance is narrow and dangerous; but once entered,
+it is quite safe. The island of Corisco (Thunder)<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> is in its mouth. Its banks
+abound with the finest timber for ship-building and other purposes.
+Forty miles south, passing along a low swampy coast, (almost a
+morass,) in latitude 0° 30′ north, is the entrance of the Rio de
+Gaboon, 30 miles broad, but inwards contracted to 12 miles. 45
+miles from the sea, the river divides into two branches; the one
+streaching north-east in a deep stream, till, according to the
+natives, it comes from the Moöhnda. The other runs south-east, and
+about 60 miles upwards is formed by several streams from the
+mountains. The sources of the Moöhnda are said to be far into the
+interior, northward of east. Southward of the Gaboon, the land is
+low, and the navigation of the coast dangerous, by reason of
+currents in the sea. Northward of Cape Lopez, we have Nazareth
+River, which has a bar, with only 12 feet water at its mouth. It is
+a large and deep river, and navigable in the interior. Such are the
+accounts given by the natives. Southward, and round Cape Lopez, is
+Liverpool, Bristol, Tawney, and Cape Lopez rivers, said to be
+considerable streams, and, with the Nazareth River, to come from
+one river in the interior called Avongo, which, at a considerable
+distance from the coast, is said to fall over an immense precipice.
+The course, however, and sources of these rivers, are unknown,
+except<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> that they
+come from the eastward. Towards the mountains of the Moon they, no
+doubt, have their rise, where the land is greatly elevated.
+South-west of that ridge, the maps constructed from the authorities
+of the Arabs, represent several rivers. It is a fact, and one worth
+attending to, that from Old Cameroons river inclusive, the natives
+on the coast are wholly unacquainted with Moors and Arabs, which
+shews they have no communication with the northern interior
+countries; a circumstance which could not have happened, had either
+the Niger or the Gir flowed to the southward.</p>
+
+<p>From Cape Lopez to the mouth of the Congo, the land is hilly,
+and the shore in many places bold. Few rivers of any magnitude
+enter the sea on this part of the coast. The mountains seem to run
+parallel with the coast. The mouth of the Congo is in nearly 6°
+south latitude. The voyage of Tuckey has made us accurately
+acquainted with this stream in its lower course. Its magnitude has
+been greatly exaggerated. At Fathomless Point, the true mouth of
+the river, it is only three miles broad. The depth, however, is
+about forty fathoms. Higher up, and approaching the cataracts and
+rapids, it contracts to two miles, and even to one mile. These
+cataracts are numerous. The rapids continue for a considerable
+space, during which the river is frequently contracted to a very
+narrow channel. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>
+ridges, on either side, rise steep, bare, and barren. Navigation is
+impracticable. The course is from N.E. Above the rapids and rocks
+it expands to the breadth of three and four miles. This is about
+280 miles from its mouth. At this point Tuckey was forced to turn
+back. The navigation upwards was said to be open. Ten days’ journey
+above this, a large branch comes from the N.W. The great stream
+comes from the N.E.; and, in all probability, rises on the S.E.
+side of the Mountains of the Moon, in about 5° north latitude, and
+31° or 33° east longitude. According to the Portuguese, near
+Concabella is the junction of several great rivers. A branch comes
+from the east, and one as large as the Po comes from the south. The
+Congo begins to rise in September. The flood is greatest in
+December. It begins to rise at the cataracts on the first of
+September. This rise begins a month before the rains commence in
+these parts. This is a convincing proof that its source is north of
+the equator, and south of those hills which give birth to the Nile,
+where the rains are greatest in August. From November to January
+the rains are heaviest in the lower parts of the Congo.
+Comparatively speaking, it may be said to be in perpetual flood.
+The reason is obvious. Its chief sources lie in different
+hemispheres, with one branch in the middle, between those extending
+eastward into the interior.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_163">[163]</span> The consequence is, that the Congo receives
+supplies from the rains of both Zones. The one beginning to swell
+it, before the flood from the other ceases. These things are a
+complete proof that it is no part of the Niger. Tuckey and his
+companions were surprised at the vast volume of water in the Congo,
+both above and below the cataracts, compared to that which rolled
+over them. They conceived the stream found subterraneous passages,
+from the number of tremendous whirlpools in it. Proyart, in his
+account of Loango, mentions some curious circumstances, which would
+favour Tuckey’s supposition. All the rivers in Loango, he says,
+flow in an equal stream in the dry and the rainy seasons. They
+suffer no diminution. However deep the natives dig, neither tuffe
+nor stone is found. A stratum of compact argile confines the waters
+to the interior of the earth. In some places it is interrupted,
+where the water undermines the surface, and often excavates large
+and deep abysses, which open spontaneously during the rains. The
+inhabitants fly as far as possible from these moving grounds.
+(<em>Proyart</em>, Pinkerton’s Coll. vol. xvi. p. 550.) Loango is
+west of the cataracts of the Congo, and situate beyond the chain of
+hills which run along its N.W. bank. Can the phenomena mentioned by
+Proyart, be occasioned by the subterraneous<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_164">[164]</span> passages in the Congo, as supposed by
+Tuckey?</p>
+
+<p>If the Congo were the Niger, then the latter must pass south, in
+the latitude of Benin, at the utmost not more than 300 miles east
+of the high land of Cameroons: now a mighty chain of mountains is
+from the coast seen to stretch two-thirds of this distance in that
+direction; and all the country in the interior, we are informed, is
+exceedingly mountainous. The vale, if I may use the expression,
+through which a river of such magnitude as the Niger is, can flow,
+must be very broad. Large streams would also join it from the west,
+as well as from the east. Bearing this in mind, it is plain that if
+the Niger passed to the Congo, no space of sufficient extent could
+remain between those mountains and the sea, to yield those immense
+rivers which enter the sea from Rio Lagos to Cape Lopez. The utmost
+extent of the course of any of them could not exceed 200 miles. If
+the Niger continued to flow to the Congo, after throwing off
+branches which form all the rivers in the Delta of Benin, and
+southward to Cape Lopez, then, considering the elevation which, in
+that case, the bed of the Niger behoved to have, their streams
+would have the rapidity of torrents; whereas, in all but the Old
+Calabar and Elrei river, it is the reverse.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>Westward of the
+Rio de Formosa, we have the Rio Lagos river, which a branch from
+the Rio de Formosa joins at its mouth. The current is very rapid
+during the flood; bearing down floating islands, and forcing
+vessels from their anchorage, when in the roads. The chief stream
+comes from the northward, and above its junction with the branch of
+the Niger is said to be ten fathoms deep, and so broad, that when
+in the middle, the banks on either hand, though covered with lofty
+trees, can scarcely be discerned. This stream has different names,
+in different parts of its course. Seven days’ journey N.E. of
+Ardrah, it passes under the name of Azewoa. Six days’ journey N.E.
+of Yahndi, it passes S.E. under the name of Mory. Four days’
+journey northward of Yngwa, the Kontoorooa, one of its branches, is
+found flowing S.E. half a mile broad, and near its junction with
+the Kirhala, which is a larger stream. This latter river is readily
+identified, as being that which travellers cross at twelve days’ or
+eleven days’ journey distant from Kong, in their route to Jinnë.
+The united stream of the Kontoorooa and Kirhala flows S.E., and is
+undoubtedly the Lagos river, which flows through populous and
+powerful countries and states.</p>
+
+<p>The Mory, or Lagos river, has been mistaken by Robertson for the
+Niger; and, accordingly, he confounds the kingdoms and states on
+each, as if these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span>
+were around or upon the same river. Soko, in Ashantee, he has thus
+put down as Sego, which place is 400 miles from Soko. The Mory
+river must be of great magnitude. Descending from such stupendous
+mountains, it must soon increase and become a very large stream.
+Six or seven days’ journey north of Ardrah, travellers represent it
+as being six miles broad. In length it must exceed 500 miles.
+Various accounts state that, north of Dahomey, is a very large lake
+from which several rivers issue. Robertson says it is 10 days’
+journey N.E. of Agombe, the capital of Dahomey. Bowditch says it is
+situated in Hio, 10 days’ journey north of Dahomey; and Snelgrave
+and Barbot state that this lake lay between Gago and Dauma
+(Dahomey) 370 miles N.N.E. of Ardrah, a distance much greater than
+either of the two former authorities allow. There is little doubt,
+however, but it is the same lake that each authority has in view.
+Snelgrave and Barbot call it Guarde, and estimate its length at
+100, and its breadth at 50 leagues. In this, however, they may be
+deceived, from estimating the days’ journey, the usual mode of
+calculation, at much more than it really is. There is little doubt,
+however, but that it is of considerable size, and its true position
+seems to be about 100 miles to the northward of east from
+Dahomey.</p>
+
+<p>The countries to the west and north-west of Dahomey<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> are represented as very
+populous, abounding in provisions, and the people great traders.
+Dagwumba, in particular, is a powerful state, and its capital,
+Yahndi, of considerable magnitude, and a great emporium for trade.
+Still more to the north-west, and amongst the Kong hills, are other
+powerful states. To the northward of the chief range, according to
+Bowditch, is the kingdom of Moozee; but, from other authorities,
+particularly Park, we learn that Moozee is the capital of the great
+kingdom of Gotto. It is a very common practice among negroes to
+place the capital for the kingdom and the kingdom for the capital.
+Moosee lies in about 10° 20′ north latitude, and 0° 45′ west
+longitude.</p>
+
+<p>The soil in the kingdom of Dahomey is composed of a deep, rich,
+reddish clay, intermixed with sand, and scarcely containing a stone
+the size of an egg throughout the whole country. This affords a
+clear proof of its being low and level: it is very fertile. The
+surrounding countries exhibit the same features.</p>
+
+<p>Westward of the Rio Lagos is the Rio Volta, a large, deep, and
+rapid stream, which is increased by the junction of the Laka at no
+great distance from the sea. The sources of both rivers we readily
+recognise in the Adirri and Addifoosoo, which take their rise in
+the eastern parts of the mountains of Kong, which are here so
+elevated as to be covered<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_168">[168]</span> with snow, and amongst which springs the
+chief branch of the Niger. The Kirhala, and the Ba Nimma, also here
+take their rise. The mouth of the Rio Volta, between the breakers,
+is a mile broad, and has three fathoms water; sixty miles upward it
+is four fathoms deep. The stream flows through fertile and populous
+districts; the natives hold it in great veneration. Teak trees
+abound on its banks. The climate is fine, and the country healthy.
+A branch from the Rio Lagos communicates with the Rio Volta, in
+many places only divided by a sand-bank from the sea. All the
+natives on this part of the coast are industrious, and great
+traders. Many Arabic words are found mixed with their languages;
+several Arabian customs remain. About Fidah the country is fertile
+and delightful. The land rises gently from the sea, covered with
+lofty trees growing in regular order, as if planted by human
+hands.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Cape Three Points is the Boosempra, the Ancobra, and
+Assinee rivers, the latter the largest, but all comparatively small
+streams. Westward, as far as to the Mesurada, the rivers that enter
+the sea are mere torrents, a proof of the shortness of their
+course, and also that the river called “Zamma,” already mentioned,
+must be a branch of the Niger. The coast here is all bold and high.
+Inland, the country is exceedingly mountainous, rising in
+height<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> and
+grandeur. Sierra Leone (hitherto supposed to be the chariot of the
+gods of the ancients,) seems to be the termination of the mighty
+chain which stretches north-east by east, through those parts of
+Africa; and it is very curious, that this chain appears to run
+exactly parallel to the grand chain of Mount Atlas. Perhaps it
+stretches across the Continent to Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>Whether the Congo is the Niger or not—whether the latter flows
+to the Egyptian Nile, and whether or not it terminates in a lake,
+swamps, or sands in the interior, still the Bights of Biafra and
+Benin are the points from whence to set out to ascertain and
+determine this important point. A considerable portion of the
+journey, we know from the best authority, can be travelled by a
+water conveyance. The whole distance cannot much exceed 300 miles,
+till the point would be determined. The nations and people on the
+route are comparatively peaceable, civilized, and friendly to
+Europeans. At old Calabar, different European languages are
+understood. The English language is spoken, and taught, and read,
+and written. They keep regular mercantile accounts in our language;
+hence good guides could be procured. In any other route from the
+west, from the north, or from the east, into the interior, the path
+is through dreadful barren deserts, countries wild and rugged, and
+men fierce and rude,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_170">[170]</span> and by religion the most inveterate enemies
+to the Christian name. The distance also, by any one of these
+routes, to be travelled before the points alluded to could be
+decidedly determined, is about 2500 miles. It is not difficult,
+therefore, to determine the route which should be chosen.</p>
+
+<p>Coomassie in the south, Mourzook in the north, and Cobbè in the
+east of Africa, are points accurately ascertained. Timbuctoo, in
+the centre, is tolerably well known. It is satisfactory that,
+taking the bearings, and calculating the distances on these by the
+most accurate scale, as all these are given by authorities wholly
+unknown to, and unconnected with each other, the positions of
+places and rivers agree with a remarkable degree of accuracy. In
+this manner the map which accompanies this work was
+constructed.</p>
+
+<p>Agadez, according to Leo and Joannes Bleav, is about 160 leagues
+distant from Cano. This corresponds very nearly indeed with the
+position where it is placed according to the accounts obtained by
+Ritchie and Bowditch. From Cashna to Zegzeg, according to Leo, is
+150 miles, which will fix the position of the latter place about
+100 miles north-east by north of the Niger at the point where Sidi
+Hamed crossed the great ridge. The mountainous nature of Zegzeg,
+mentioned by Leo, is thus supported by the testimony of Sidi Hamed.
+From<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> Cashna,
+westward to Gonjah, (Kong, or districts near it,) according to
+Shereef Imhammed, is 97 days’ journey, which, from the nature of
+the country passed through, and the route taken, will agree with
+sufficient accuracy with the position of Kong, as placed by the
+information given to Bowditch. From Gonjah, or Kong, to the sea
+coast, through Tonouah, is 46 days’ journey according to Shereef
+Imhammed. This will be found to agree very nearly with the accounts
+obtained by Bowditch. Kashna is stated to be east of Timbuctoo 690
+miles, and west of Bornou 650 miles. (<em>Rees’ Encyc.</em>) Both
+these distances will be found to agree well with the position of
+Kashna, as obtained from Bowditch and others. Park’s guide, Amadou
+Fatouma, told him that from Sansanding to Kashna was a journey of
+60 days or two months. Much of this journey was by water, and
+consequently more expeditious than by land.</p>
+
+<p>From Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara in Dar Saley, to Bornou,
+according to Browne, was a journey of 60 days. According to
+Ledyard, the distance from Mourzook to Bornou is 660 geographical
+miles. According to Burkhardt it is 50 days’ journey, (by others
+52,) which, at an average of 13 miles per day, is 650 miles. From
+Mourzook to Agadez, according to Ledyard, is 479 geographical
+miles: from other authorities it is 47 days’ journey,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> and 17 days’ journey
+additional to Kashna, which is nearly south of Mourzook. From
+Tripoli to Timbuctoo, according to Ritchie, is a journey of 80
+days. The two places are 1260 geographical miles distant from each
+other. This would give an average of 15½ miles for each day’s
+journey, which, being through an open country, exceeds considerably
+what can be made good in one day in the woody and mountainous
+districts.</p>
+
+<p>South of the Niger we will find the reckonings equally exact.
+From Coomassie to Yahndi is 24 days’ journey. This will place
+Yahndi in north latitude 8° 38′, and 0° 55′ east longitude. From
+Yahndi to Yaoora is 42 days’ journey, and the same distance to the
+point where the Niger is crossed in the route to the city of
+Houssa. From Inta to Timbuctoo is 41 days’ journey; from Coomassie
+to Kong is 24 days’ journey, and thence to Jinnë is 42 days’
+journey, according to the accounts which Bowditch obtained from
+different authorities. From Elmina, on the Gold Coast, to Oenessy,
+on the river Ingaee, (evidently the Niger at Jinnë or Lake Dibbie,)
+by a route through Buntakoo, Inta, Oalla, &amp;c. is, according to
+Robertson, (p. 180,) 60 days’ journey. Calculating the day’s
+journey at 10 geographical miles made good south of the Niger, and
+13 miles, (12 to 13 is the number allowed by <em>Browne</em>, p.
+448,) upon an average, in the cultivated<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_173">[173]</span> countries north of the Niger, the reader
+will perceive how nearly different authorities, wholly unconnected
+with each other, are made to agree; a proof of the general
+accuracy, and also that the proper scale for estimating these days
+journey has been followed.</p>
+
+<p>To explore Central Africa to its deepest recesses—to acquire the
+command and control over the whole of its trade, we require only
+two great stations: first, an insular one near the grand estuary of
+the Niger; second, as the river has several navigable estuaries,
+another station in the interior is necessary, either where the
+stream divides or unites, as may be found most eligible or most
+healthy. With these we command the whole trade of Northern Africa,
+from the source of the Senegal to Darfur, and from Bornou to Benin.
+A third station, at the Rio Lagos, would give us the command of the
+trade into the deepest recesses of the Kong mountains. If ships
+cannot navigate to all these more distant parts, we know that
+boats, and vessels of a magnitude sufficient to render the
+conveyance of goods cheap, expeditious, and easy, can and do.
+Steam-boats could navigate to the most distant parts—to Balia, to
+Bornou, and Dar Saley. Ten, twelve, fifteen, or twenty days, would
+serve to reach Timbuctoo, and the most distant parts from our
+interior settlement. Steam would impel<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_174">[174]</span> them upwards; the current would bring them
+down without any expense of fuel. Coals could be carried out cheap;
+wood can be had in abundance. Who can calculate the advantages that
+would result from such an intercourse?</p>
+
+<p>The Island of Fernando Po is the insular station which nature
+points out, I may say that she has planted, for that important end.
+This island is about forty miles distant from the mouth of Bannee
+River—the same distance from the estuary of Cross and Elrei
+rivers—scarcely farther removed from Cameroons and Malemba rivers,
+and about 200 and 220 miles from the Moöhnda and Rio de Gaboon,
+thus commanding the entrance of all these rivers, if they proceed
+from the Niger, or whether they proceed from the Niger or not. Even
+if the Niger flowed to the Congo, after throwing off all the rivers
+mentioned—even though the Gir were a separate stream, and besides
+throwing off the rivers south of the high land of Cameroons, it
+continued its course to the Congo, then the value of Fernando Po
+would by this be greatly enhanced; because, besides an entrance
+into Northern Africa, we should command an entrance into Southern
+Africa also, as the Congo is not navigable near its mouth by reason
+of cataracts. The Island of Fernando Po has been successively
+abandoned by the Dutch, Portuguese, and Spaniards, and the title to
+it could thus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span>
+readily be acquired. The land is very high, and therefore healthy.
+It is 36 miles long, and 15 broad, and could be made very
+productive. On each side it has fine and safe anchorage; the
+inhabitants are warlike, but their subjugation would be an easy
+task. Prince’s Island, 110 miles south-west, is a fine soil and
+climate, and might also be taken possession of, to prevent any
+other European nation from annoying us. St. Thomas’s, under the
+equator, is very unhealthy, and both it and Annabon is too distant
+from the coast to render them of such importance as the former
+two.</p>
+
+<p>The reason why an insular situation is necessary is obvious: it
+would be healthier than the low lands on the coast of the
+continent. It could be kept and protected by a naval power, at much
+less expense than a settlement on the coast of the mainland. It
+would prove a station which would equally command every approach,
+while it would prove an impregnable bulwark in the hands of the
+Mistress of the Ocean, from whence our internal establishment could
+always be supplied, and to which it could look for succour and
+effectual assistance in case of any emergency.</p>
+
+<p>Fernando Po is, of all places, the best, and, it may be added,
+the only proper station on the African coast, for our cruizers to
+watch and cut up the slave trade, which is, and while it continues,
+will<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> always be,
+greatest on the coast opposite. Our naval officers know, and are
+well convinced of this. Sierra Leone is near 1600 miles from this
+island, and from the prevailing winds, vessels from the Bights of
+Benin and Biafra, where the greatest number of captures are made,
+are forced to beat all the way to Sierra Leone, which renders the
+passage exceedingly tedious. As the vessels now employed in the
+slave trade are small, and built to sail fast, that they may elude
+our cruizers, and being thus exceedingly crowded, the length of the
+passage to Sierra Leone proves fatal to many of the slaves. Sierra
+Leone is also the most unhealthy spot on the whole western coast of
+Africa, and, from its situation, must remain so. It is a grave for
+Europeans; and whoever turns his eye to the map, will readily
+perceive that it is the worst chosen station on all the coast of
+Africa for an extensive political or commercial establishment. From
+the nature of the country behind this settlement, it is obvious it
+can have no communication with the interior but by land carriage,
+and this, from the mountainous nature of the country, is almost
+impracticable. It has nothing in it or about it that ever can give
+it an ascendancy in Africa, and an establishment on the Niger and
+Fernando Po would soon shew its insignificance.</p>
+
+<p>But, while possession of Fernando Po would, in<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> time of war, completely
+command all the grand outlets of Central Africa, and place whatever
+European settlements were therein planted, completely at the mercy
+of Great Britain, still the possession of that island alone, would
+neither give us the monopoly of the trade to those parts, nor
+prevent other European nations from sharing in that trade with us
+in time of peace. A commanding station, however, inland on any spot
+which could controul the united stream, would give to this nation
+the complete monopoly and every advantage. Without this, Fernando
+Po would only become valuable to Great Britain when war occurred
+betwixt her and any European power which had settlements in the
+interior. Without such a controuling settlement also, in the
+interior, the trade from Great Britain to those Central parts of
+Africa, laid open by these rivers, had much better, as more
+convenient and less expensive, be carried on direct from any port
+in Great Britain, to Timbuctoo, &amp;c. (should the Niger prove
+navigable for ships) than to have the goods landed, and afterwards
+reshipped at Fernando Po. This island may be of great use as a
+depot, till the point for forming a settlement in the interior is
+finally pitched upon, and rendered secure against any attack. In
+choosing the position for this settlement, care must be taken not
+only to take into consideration the security and advantage
+for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> the present
+moment, but those great advantages and important results which may
+be fairly anticipated for the future.</p>
+
+<p>Granting that the navigation of the Niger was interrupted at
+Boussa, by reason of rapids or rocks rising amidst the stream;
+still, we know that the river can be navigated in safety from
+Boussa upwards, and from Boussa downwards. Therefore, on this
+commanding spot, let the British standard be firmly planted, and no
+power on Africa could tear it up. A trifling land carriage would
+then give this nation nearly all the advantages of an open
+navigation, and by such a natural barrier, place the Niger
+completely under her controul. Firmly planted in Central Africa,
+the British flag would become the rallying point for all that is
+honourable, useful, beneficial, just, and good. Under the mighty
+shade thereof, the nations would seek security, comfort, and
+repose. Allies Great Britain would find in abundance. They would
+flock to her settlement, if it had the power and the means to
+protect them. The resources of Africa, and the energies of Africa,
+under a wise and vigorous policy, may be made to subdue and
+controul Africa. Let Britain only form such a settlement, and give
+it that countenance, support, and protection, which the wisdom and
+energy of British Councils can give, and which the power and
+resources of the British<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_179">[179]</span> empire can so well maintain, and Central
+Africa to future ages will remain a grateful and obedient
+dependency of this empire. The latter will become the centre of all
+the wealth, and the focus of all the industry of the former. Then
+the Niger, like the Ganges, would acknowledge Great Britain as its
+protector—our King as its Lord.</p>
+
+<p>The extent of country and population whose improvements,
+labours, and wants would be dependent upon, and stimulated to
+exertions by, a settlement on the Niger, is prodigious, and all
+together unequalled. The extent compromises a country of nearly 40°
+of longitude, from W. to E., and through the greater part of this
+extent of 20° latitude, from N. to S., a space almost equal to
+Europe. Where the confluence of the Gir, or the Bahr Kulla with the
+Niger takes place, is the spot to erect the Capital of our great
+African establishments. A city built there, under the protecting
+wings of Great Britain, and extended, enriched, and embellished by
+the industry, skill, and spirit of her sons, would ere long become
+the capital of Africa. Fifty millions of people, yea, even a
+greater number, would be dependent on it.</p>
+
+<p>Whoever turns his eyes to the map, must at one glance perceive
+that this is a kingdom—a colony—a trade in which no foreign power
+whatever could come into competition with us, or endanger its
+stability<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> and
+prosperity. Insurmountable barriers oppose on every side. On the
+north and on the east deserts intervene, across which all attempts
+at mercantile competition must be fruitless, and where no hostile
+armies in any force can find their way. From the west, south-west,
+and south-east, impenetrable mountains (for I may say these are so
+for any purposes of trade or attempt at invasion) arise,
+insuperable barriers. By the majestic stream of the Niger an
+entrance can only be obtained. The Mistress of the Ocean may place
+a barrier there, which she, and she only, can shut and open at her
+pleasure. The rival which can approach nearest, must do so by means
+of the Senegal. But this stream ceases to be navigable above Galam.
+Thence to the Niger is nearly 200 miles, across such mountains, and
+through such forests, as may be considered impassable for any army
+of strength, or for any mercantile speculation which could alarm or
+shake the prosperity of the settlements eastward on the Niger.</p>
+
+<p>The French nation have long looked towards Africa with an
+anxious and a longing eye, in order to repair the losses which
+revolution and war have occasioned in their colonial
+establishments. France is making every effort to explore and
+collect information concerning the interior parts of the northern
+division of that Continent. She is already established<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> on the Senegal, and commands
+that river; and if the supineness and carelessness of Great Britain
+allow that powerful, enterprising, and ambitious rival to step
+before us and fix herself securely on the lower Niger, then it is
+evident, that with such a settlement in addition to her command of
+the Senegal, France will command all Northern Africa. The
+consequences cannot fail to be fatal to the best interests of this
+country, and by means surer than even by war or conquest, tend
+ultimately to bring ruin on our best Tropical Colonial
+establishments. She will then meet this country with a decided
+superiority in every market, not only with all colonial productions
+at present known, but also with others peculiar to Africa, and as
+yet, little known in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The rivers are the roads in the Torrid Zone. Nature seems to
+have intended these as the great help in introducing agriculture
+and commerce. Wherever the continents are most extensive, there we
+find the most magnificent rivers flowing through them, opening up a
+communication from side to side. What is still more remarkable, and
+becomes of great utility, is, that these mighty currents flow
+against the prevailing winds, thus rendering the navigation easy,
+which would otherwise be extremely tedious and difficult. This is
+the case with the great Maranon and Oronoco in South
+America.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> The
+prevailing trade winds blow right up their streams. This is the
+case with the Niger, and in a more particular manner during the
+time it is in flood. For ten months in the year, but more
+particularly from May till November, the prevailing wind in the
+Bights of Benin and Biafra is from south-west, thus blowing right
+up all the outlets of the Niger. January and February are the
+months during which the Harmattan wind blows, a dry wind coming
+from the north-east, and from the great deserts south of the
+Mediterranean. In the Congo, Tuckey found the breeze generally
+blowing up the stream. It is needless to point out, at length, the
+advantages which may be derived from this wise regulation in the
+natural world. The meanest capacity may comprehend these.</p>
+
+<p>But it is not the west coasts and interior of Northern Africa
+only that afford eligible situations for settlements, and a wide
+field for profitable commerce. The east coasts afford ample range
+for both. From the Cape of Good Hope, but more particularly from
+Caffraria to Cosseir on the Red Sea, there are rich and ample
+fields. These were the mines of wealth for the ancient world, and
+from whence the Phenicians, Tyre and Zidon drew their golden
+stores. By political events, cut off for ages from the civilized
+portions of the earth, these countries have become sunk in
+ignorance and barbarity,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_183">[183]</span> and their capabilities remain neglected and
+unknown. But the materials remain. And could Tyre and Zidon—cities
+on the Mediterranean in the earliest periods of history, while
+knowledge was limited to what it is now—do what Great Britain
+cannot? Certainly not. We have more than they ever had within our
+power. Immense rivers flow on the east coast of Africa. The
+Zambezi, or, as it is called at its mouth, Quilimanca, enters the
+sea in about 18° south latitude, and by five different mouths,
+forming so many Deltas. Far into the interior, and before it
+divides into branches, it is a league broad. It inundates the
+country in April, a proof that its sources are towards the Southern
+Tropic. The country up this river, and its tributary streams, is
+very rich in metals and minerals, as it is also towards the south
+about Sofala, so famous for its gold mines. Northwards are other
+important rivers, particularly the Zebee. But the grand station in
+these parts is the Island of Socotora, to the east of Cape
+Guardafui. In the hands of a naval power, such as Great Britain,
+this shuts up the Red Sea most completely, and gives us the command
+of Western Arabia, and all the inlets into Abyssinia and Nubia. The
+coasts of Africa opposite, are the lands so famed in ancient times
+for myrrh and incense. It brings us into immediate contact with,
+and in fact enables us to command,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_184">[184]</span> the fertile kingdom of Aden on the Arabian
+coast, so famous for its spices. Possession of this island would
+enable us to shut and open the Red Sea at our pleasure, in all the
+trade from the East Indies, or indeed from any part. A small
+exertion might get from the Turks Massouah, and Suakim, and
+Cosseir, ports on the west coast of the Red Sea. These places are
+of no use to them, but would be most valuable to us.</p>
+
+<p>Unfold the map of the world. We command the Ganges—fortified at
+Bombay, the Indus is our own. Possessed of the islands in the mouth
+of the Persian Gulf, we command the outlets of Persia, and the
+mouths of the Euphrates, and consequently of countries the cradle
+of the human race. We command at the Cape of Good Hope; Gibraltar
+and Malta belonging to us, we controul the Mediterranean. Let us
+plant the British standard on the Island of Socotora—upon the
+Island of Fernando Po—and inland upon the banks of the Niger, and
+then we may say Asia and Africa—for all their productions and all
+their wants—are under our controul. It is in our power. Nothing can
+prevent us. A tenth part of the sum which our merchants and
+manufacturers have lost in overstocking old markets, would have
+been sufficient to fix us securely in Africa, and to have developed
+completely all the mercantile<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_185">[185]</span> stores which she possesses, and the
+improvements of which she is susceptible.</p>
+
+<p>To benefit Africa, and make Africa a benefit to Europe, we must
+know and consider the evils she suffers, and the wrongs she
+inflicts on herself. In every part of Africa her population,
+whether Moors, Arabs, Negroes, or the mixed race descended from
+these, is divided into innumerable petty states, who are engaged in
+constant quarrels and warfare with each other. Wherever we find
+more powerful states in Africa, there the ignorant sovereign rules
+over his trembling subjects by the terrors of superstition and the
+sword. Life, liberty, and property, are consequently every where
+insecure. Slavery exists universally, and the slave trade is
+prevalent every where. The elements of human society are dreadfully
+disjointed. Nevertheless, the nations in central Africa, I mean its
+northern part, are not savages. They are barbarians, and some less
+rude than others. Every where we find them collected into cities,
+cultivating the land, and carrying on commerce, which, though rude
+when compared to civilized nations, yet clearly distinguishes their
+condition from that of the savage state. Here, the fiery zeal and
+hard yoke of the Arab has done some good. Wherever their influence
+extended, cannibalism and human sacrifices, so prevalent on the
+coasts of Guinea, and countries bordering on it,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> were abolished. The days,
+however, of Arabian grandeur and greatness are fled. Their power in
+Africa is decaying fast. The governments on the southern boundaries
+of the Zahaara, and in the north-east parts of Sudan, exhibit the
+strangest compound of arrogance and weakness, pride and imbecility,
+despotism and ignorance, barbarity and folly, that are to be met
+with on the face of the earth.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the materials for a better order of things exist both
+amongst them and the Negro population. The power that could curb
+the lawlessness of the one, and enlighten the ignorance of the
+other, would soon make them useful. Were it not that the power of
+the Arabs is so much decayed in better countries, the population of
+Africa to the Gold Coast had at this day acknowledged Mecca as
+their temple, and Mahomet as the prophet of God. Decayed as their
+power is, still they are more than a match for the timid and
+indolent Negro, whose lands are invaded and plundered by these
+marauding bands. The Mahommedan religion teaches its votaries that
+it is a deed meriting paradise to convert, by any means, an infidel
+to the true faith. To accomplish this, the Negro is loaded with
+chains. Enthusiasm and interest goad on the Arab and Moor. Large
+caravans seek Sudan from every quarter, and barter the commonest
+merchandize<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> for
+men. Into Morocco, the Barbary States along the Mediterranean,
+Egypt, Nubia, Abyssinia, across the Red Sea into Arabia and other
+countries, from 60,000 to 70,000 slaves are carried annually. Since
+the abolition of Christian slavery in the Barbary States, this
+traffic in Negro slaves is greatly increased. The miseries the
+slaves endure marching across the deserts, sinks the middle passage
+of the European slave trade into insignificance.</p>
+
+<p>There is no efficient way to arrest the progress of this
+deep-rooted evil, but to teach the Negroes useful knowledge, and
+the arts of civilized life. Left to themselves, the Negroes will
+never effectually accomplish this. It must be done by a mighty
+power, who will take them under its protection— a power
+sufficiently bold, enlightened and just, to burst asunder the
+chains of that grovelling superstition, which enthrals and debases
+their minds, and that, with the voice of authority, can unite the
+present jarring elements which exist in Africa, and direct them to
+honourable and useful pursuits. A small portion of European
+knowledge and spirit would be sufficient to rouse the Negro to
+assert his independence, and drive back, with shame and disgrace,
+any force which either the Moors or the Arabs could send against
+him. Till this is done— till the native princes are taught that
+they may be rich without selling men—and till Africa is
+shown,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> that it is
+in the labour and industry of her population, and in the
+cultivation of her soil, that true wealth consists—and till that
+population see a power which can protect them from such degrading
+bondage, there can be no security for liberty or property in
+Africa; and, consequently, no wish or hope for improvement amongst
+her population. Slavery, and a slave trade, existed in all their
+virulence many centuries before Europeans had any knowledge of
+Western and of Southern Africa. Were the European abolition
+rendered ever so effectual— were all the traffic with the other
+places previously enumerated completely abolished, still this would
+scarcely dry up one tear that flows to swell the tide of African
+misery. Millions are still slaves—slaves to slaves in Africa. It is
+in Africa, therefore, that this evil must be rooted out—by African
+hands and African exertions chiefly that it can be destroyed. It is
+a waste of time and a waste of means, an aggravation of the
+disorder, to keep lopping off the smaller branches of a malignant,
+a vigorous and reproductive plant, while the root and stem remain
+uninjured, carefully supplied with nourishment, and beyond our
+reach. Half the sums we have expended in this manner, would have
+planted us firmly in Interior Africa, and rooted up slavery for
+ever. Only teach them and shew them that we will give them more for
+their produce than for the hand that<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_189">[189]</span> rears it, and the work is done. All other
+methods and means will prove ineffectual.</p>
+
+<p>It is the policy of the Moors and Arabs to keep Christians, in
+any numbers, from penetrating into the interior of Africa.
+Fanaticism and interest make them oppose all such attempts. This
+jealousy is heightened by superstitious fears; for there runs a
+tradition amongst all the Mahommedans in Africa, that the
+Christians are one day to wrest the country from them. The Negro
+States on the south of Africa act with similar policy, and for
+similar reasons. They do every thing they can to hinder Europeans
+from having communication with the nations in the interior. They
+want a monopoly of every trade carried on with the interior; and
+all these people are convinced, that if ever Europeans can find
+their way into the interior, their monopoly, and all their power
+and influence, are gone. It is evident, therefore, that till all
+these barriers which stand in the way of African improvement are
+broken down and destroyed, no great progress will ever be made in
+civilizing Africa, or of rendering that continent serviceable to
+her inhabitants, or to the rest of the world. Protection and
+conquest, permanent and commanding, can only accomplish the object.
+Not that conquest, which, springing from unprincipled ambition,
+overruns to destroy, but that conquest which subdues and controls
+to restrain evil,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span>
+and establishes what is good. This once civilized a part of
+Africa—this only can accomplish such a work again.</p>
+
+<p>While the first and determined effort must be made to put down
+every foreign slave trade with, or in the interior of Africa, it
+may be a question, how far it would be politic and safe to
+intermeddle with the internal slavery there existing, except to
+ameliorate it. This, as in Russia, exists to an enormous extent.
+The number of slaves in Africa is about three-fourths of her
+population. But we must not grasp at too much at first. We must get
+their chiefs to go along with us at the outset. This, it is
+possible, we might not effect with that cordiality which is
+necessary, should we require all their slaves to be made free at
+once. In Africa there is no such a thing as a freeman hiring
+himself to labour; it is all done by slaves; consequently, without
+them no labour could be carried on. Also, we must create the labour
+in which freemen could be employed. With the present internal
+establishments, therefore, it might be prudent not to interfere
+further than to see strict justice maintained to all in their
+relative situations, till time prepared their minds for the change,
+and till a general system of industry, and influx of wealth from
+labour, enabled the freemen and their chiefs to emancipate their
+slaves, without reducing themselves to beggary<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_191">[191]</span> and want: In short, till the one could
+procure labour to earn his subsistence, and the other free
+labourers to keep up his former rank and independence. But while we
+did not interfere too rashly in these internal regulations, so as
+to bring unnecessary difficulties on our hands, and which might
+blast our future prospects, still it must never be forgotten, that
+no time and no opportunity ought to be lost in making freedom
+universal in Africa; and every exertion must be made, in every way
+and at all times, by precept and by example, to prepare the minds
+of the one part of the population in Africa to give, and the other
+to receive it. We must instruct this to be done; and, above all, we
+must counsel and direct all external traffic in slaves to cease.
+With that there can and must be no compromise, if we wish to
+benefit Africa. But let these instructions and commands be issued
+and carried into effect in the spirit of moderation, conciliation,
+and peace—by that spirit which, placing ourselves in the situation
+of our neighbour, would do as it wishes to be done by; and with
+this, our object cannot fail, in time, of complete success. We must
+be the sole arbiter and director in this part of Africa; and
+therefore our intentions must be honest, our actions just, and our
+sentence irrevocable.</p>
+
+<p>In establishing such a colony in Africa, we must not, as in the
+case of America and New Holland,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_192">[192]</span> go with a few unarmed settlers, as amidst a
+few straggling savages. We must go with a force that will command
+respect and obedience, and be able to resent and punish every
+aggression made, or insult offered. A force less than the garrison
+of Gibraltar would command all the interior of Northern Africa; and
+a few Congreve rockets would serve to disperse and reduce the most
+numerous armies that the most powerful sovereigns in these parts
+could arm against us. Europeans, indeed, could not undergo in these
+climates the same fatigues as the natives; but the superiority of
+the former in knowledge and skill would compensate for the mere
+physical superiority of the latter. The opinion universally
+entertained of European superiority, would, of itself, judiciously
+applied, half conquer Africa. Besides, we could levy and organize a
+force, to any extent judged prudent, amongst these natives, to aid
+in the control and command of the country. We have done this in
+India, and why cannot we do it in Africa? Nay, we might make India
+subdue Northern Africa;—the Ganges the mighty engine which would
+give us the command of the Niger. From the banks of the former we
+could obtain a voluntary force, which would enable us to dictate to
+the latter. By these means we should make India the means of
+preparing for us an empire of equal importance to replace her
+strength, when that, in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_193">[193]</span> course of political changes, is withdrawn
+from our allegiance. Once established on the Niger, the work is
+done. The resources and energies of Africa would complete the
+object. There are many of the people, both Moors, Arabs, and
+Negroes, who, though they could not be made agriculturists,
+followers of commerce and manufactures, would yet make good
+soldiers; and, commanded by European officers, would, with a small
+proportion of European troops, be equal to every purpose. The
+preservation of the health of European troops in warm climates, is
+now better understood than formerly, and in the interior of Africa
+there are numerous healthy situations.</p>
+
+<p>There is but one opinion amongst all those who are, or who have
+had an opportunity of being acquainted with Africa, her population,
+and present institutions, namely, that colonization, fixed and
+stable, can only render her any permanent benefit. The mere
+abolition of the external slave trade, they all agree, will do
+little or nothing for the welfare of Africa. Governor Ludlam, than
+whom no person better understood the African character, or
+interests of Africa, goes even a step farther. “To abolish the
+slave trade,” says he, “is not to abolish the violent passions
+which now find vent in that particular direction. Were it to cease,
+the misery of Africa would arise from other causes; but it
+does<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> not follow
+that Africa would be less miserable: she might even be less
+miserable, and yet be savage and uncivilized. The abolition of the
+external slave trade does not actually set us forward one step in
+our course to civilize or benefit Africa. Nay,” says he, “where
+they have been in some measure improved, I rather think they will
+sink back into their former state, which is still the state of the
+natives two or three hundred miles inland (from Sierra Leone.) In
+the next place, the administration of every African government must
+become extremely severe, if not extremely bloody. When so effectual
+a punishment as slavery is done away, which yet, as it sheds no
+blood, is readily executed on petty criminals, and in doubtful
+cases, severe punishments, and more terrible examples, must be
+introduced. Every ancient institution, the power of every
+hereditary chief, must now be sustained by blood instead of
+slavery. While the punishment of many small crimes has, by means of
+the external slave trade, been raised into slavery, it is not less
+true, that the punishment of some great ones has been sunk into it.
+The abolition, therefore, will be of little benefit to Africa,
+unless plans for its improvement and civilization be vigorously
+acted upon. That civilization will follow conquest, I readily
+allow;” and, adds he, “there will be no question that the French
+will diligently endeavour to extend their<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_195">[195]</span> influence in Africa by all possible means,
+and as diligently endeavour to drive us out of it.” (<em>Letter to
+Zach. Macauly, Esq. Sierra Leone, April</em> 14, 1807.)</p>
+
+<p>This was the opinion of one intimately acquainted with the west
+coast. Every passing day has served to confirm his opinions, formed
+from actual observation. Let us attend to the observations and
+opinions of another intelligent observer, made in Eastern Africa,
+namely Burkhardt. Page 344, he says, “Were all the outlets to Sudan
+closed to the slave trade, and the caravans which carry on the
+traffic with Barbary, Egypt, and Arabia, prevented from procuring
+farther supplies, still slavery would universally prevail in Sudan
+itself; for as long as these countries are possessed by Mussulmans,
+whose religion induces them to make war upon the idolatrous
+Negroes, whose domestic wants require a constant supply of servants
+and shepherds, and who, considering slaves as a medium of exchange
+in lieu of money, are as eager to obtain them as other nations
+would be to explore the African mines, slavery must continue to
+exist in the heart of Africa; nor can it cease, until the Negroes
+shall become possessed of the means of repelling the attacks, and
+resisting the oppression of their Mussulmen neighbours. It is not
+from foreign nations that the Blacks can obtain deliverance; this
+great work<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> must be
+effected by themselves, and can be the result only of successful
+resistance. The European governments who have settlements on the
+coasts of Africa, may contribute to it by commerce, and by the
+introduction among the Negroes of arts and industry, which must
+ultimately lead them to a superiority over the Mussulmans in war.
+Europe, therefore, will have done but little for the Blacks, if the
+abolition of the Atlantic slave trade, <em>which is trifling</em>
+when compared with the slavery of the interior, is not followed up
+by some wise and grand plan, tending to the civilization of the
+continent.”</p>
+
+<p>Colonization, permanent and powerful, is this “wise and grand
+plan.” Established in the heart of Africa, Great Britain would be
+the arbiter of Africa. Her precept, and example, and assistance,
+would serve to teach and enable every Negro potentate to repel all
+foreign aggression, and the beneficial tendency of employing their
+present slave population in cultivating their own kingdoms. This
+would procure them wealth. Wealth would induce them to seek
+security, and enable them to obtain the means of protecting
+themselves from external injury; or, where they could not of
+themselves accomplish this object, bring them to place themselves
+under the wings of the power which could do so. On this grand and
+wise principle, colonization and cultivation were the first
+settlements<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> of the
+Portuguese established in Africa. The beneficial results soon
+became most extensive and apparent, even after the attention of
+that power was unfortunately withdrawn to another quarter of the
+world. The number, and extent, and prosperity, of their settlements
+in Africa are well known. Unfortunately, however, for Portugal, and
+still more unfortunately for Africa, the spirit, strength, and
+influence of Portugal received a check in Europe, and the discovery
+of, and desire for cultivating America attracted her attention,
+withdrew her affections and care from these settlements in Africa;
+and not only so, but by a most erroneous policy, and barbarous
+system, induced her to withdraw the strength of Africa to cultivate
+the fields of America. In this manner her extensive colonies in the
+former were lost, or became only points for carrying on the slave
+trade; and all the good she had done, and might have done to Africa
+and to herself, was lost and disregarded. What she might have done,
+and what every European power has so long neglected, it is now in
+our power, under more favourable circumstances, to set about and
+accomplish.</p>
+
+<p>There is, and can be but one opinion about the policy of
+extending our connections political and commercial with Africa. In
+the manner pointed out, these can only be permanently and
+beneficially extended. It must cost some expense, but the
+result<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> will repay
+it. It is to her colonial system that Great Britain is indebted for
+her greatness and her glory. It is these possessions which enabled
+her to resist and beat down beneath her feet, the world united
+against her. It is her colonial trade that gives her sailors,
+acquainted with every coast, and inured to every climate. The whole
+trade of Northern Africa would augment more than others the number
+of these most useful subjects. Nor is it merely the number employed
+in that trade which such an intercourse would give her. The command
+of African produce would give her the trade to other quarters of
+the world, and by so much more, add to the numbers of her seamen.
+These would man her fleets with determined hands on every
+emergency. On these things depend the preponderance of Britain in
+the councils and affairs of Europe. If neglected, that
+preponderance is gone, and our existence, as a nation, is
+endangered. Our formidable rival France, understands this well. She
+has learned it by experience. Had the counsels of Talleyrand been
+followed by her Government, the fatal disasters which befel France
+had never happened, nor the glory and power of Britain been so
+raised and extended. To procure and rear up colonies, was at all
+times the earnest recommendation to his countrymen, of this crafty
+but wise politician. He placed Britain before their eyes as
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> most striking
+example of what such possessions did do, and could enable her to
+perform.</p>
+
+<p>In his valuable pamphlet, written during the French Consulate,
+for the purpose mentioned, he says of Britain. “Her navy and her
+commerce are at present all her trust. France may add Italy and
+Germany to her dominions with less detriment to Britain than will
+follow the acquisition of a navy, and the extension of her trade.
+Whatever gives colonies to France, supplies her with ships,
+sailors, manufactures, and husbandmen. Victories by land can only
+give her mutinous subjects; who, instead of augmenting the national
+force by their riches or numbers, contribute only to disperse and
+enfeeble that force; but the growth of colonies supplies her with
+zealous citizens, and the increase of real wealth, and increase of
+effective numbers, is the certain consequence.”</p>
+
+<p>“What would Germany, Italy, Spain, and France, combining their
+strength, do against England? They might assemble in millions on
+the shores of the Channel, but <em>there</em> would be the limits
+of their enmity. Without ships to carry them over, without
+experienced mariners to navigate these ships, Britain would only
+deride the pompous preparation. The moment we leave the shore, her
+fleets are ready to pounce upon us, to disperse and destroy our
+ineffectual armaments. There lies her<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_200">[200]</span> security; in her insular situation and her
+navy consist her impregnable defence. Her navy is, in every
+respect, the offspring of her trade. To rob her of that, therefore,
+<em>is to beat down her last wall, and to fill up her last
+moat</em>. To gain it to ourselves, is to enable us to take
+advantage of her deserted and defenceless borders, and to complete
+the humiliation of our only remaining competitor.” These are great
+and serious truths, which every British statesman, and indeed every
+Briton should engrave on their memories. France will always
+consider us as her competitor; and she will, accordingly, pursue
+the plans which can only render her successful against our
+independence and prosperity. This, Britain ought carefully to
+remember.</p>
+
+<p>The change contemplated in Africa could not be wrought in a day.
+But were we once firmly established, in a commanding attitude, on
+the Niger, and an end put to the two great scourges of Africa,
+superstition and an external slave trade, the progress of
+improvement would be rapid, and the advantages great. Commanding
+the Niger, none could interfere with us. The Arab and the Moor
+would no longer be tempted, by gain from traffic, to brave the
+dangers of the great Zahaara; and, if from ambition or love of
+plunder they did so, then meeting a foe which could effectually
+oppose them, they would not venture to repeat their incursions and
+attacks.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> Thus cut
+off from the means of obtaining slaves from the interior of Africa
+to labour for them, as they are now debarred from enslaving
+Christians, they would be compelled to labour—compelled to follow
+the example of civilized nations—compelled, in a word, to become
+civilized also. Nor would the consequences stop here. Those fierce
+hordes, rendered savage by the hardships they endure, and who
+frequent the great Zahaara to plunder the traveller and the
+merchant, and who are tempted with the hopes of wealth to lead such
+unsettled lives, finding this trade no longer carried on by these
+routes, would be compelled to emerge from their burning wastes,
+seek more habitable spots, and thus come more within the power of
+civilized man. The accomplishment and carrying into effect the
+object and measures I have endeavoured to point out, would not only
+civilize Southern and Central Africa, but all the northern and
+eastern parts thereof; and is, perhaps, the only way by which it
+can be done, except by the conquest of all those countries by some
+formidable European power, which, even if one capable of doing that
+could be found, the jealousies of the other powers would oppose and
+prevent. But the same reason does not apply to controlling the
+Southern and Central parts of Africa, because that does not
+immediately threaten the independence, repose, or interests of any
+European power.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>But it will, and
+may very justly be asked, what right have we, or any other European
+nation, to go and fix ourselves in Africa, conquer and controul the
+native powers, levy taxes, and make them our subjects? The answer
+is plain; we have no such right, nor is any such right here claimed
+or advocated. In every thing that has been stated, or that may yet
+be stated, in the prosecution of this subject, I have viewed
+matters prospectively, and considered our connection with Africa
+and our empire there, as extensively and permanently formed. But
+there is not the smallest idea of wishing to recommend that we
+should, or hope expressed that we would, enter Africa with the
+sword drawn to accomplish these objects. Quite the contrary.
+Fernando Po we may take possession of with the permission of the
+Portuguese, (should that be deemed necessary to ask,) without
+invading or violating, in the slightest degree, any right of the
+natives, or those of any native power in Africa. For the settlement
+inland, let us purchase the right and title to the space of country
+we may judge necessary for that purpose, from any of the native
+Princes or powers to whom it may belong. This was done at Sierra
+Leone, and may be done in any other part of Africa very readily,
+and at a trifling expence.</p>
+
+<p>This done, there fixed and fortified, we have an unquestionable
+right to extend our connections in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_203">[203]</span> Africa by trade, and by treaties. We can
+form alliances, take nations under our protection who may solicit
+the same, (many certainly would,) and thus situated, we should have
+the clearest right to resist, repel, and conquer every power which
+might dare to attack ourselves, or any of our allies. In this
+manner, as in India, but at much less trouble and expence, our
+influence, power, and empire, would be felt, would be consolidated,
+extended, and securely fixed in Africa; and, ere long, it would
+comprehend all the countries which have been pointed out, either as
+friends, or immediately under our sway. It is in this manner I
+would recommend, and wish to see, and hope to see, our power and
+commerce extended in Africa; and, in this manner, it can and would
+extend, not only without infringing upon any legitimate rights, but
+extending inestimable blessings and benefits to all.</p>
+
+<p>We have attempted to do much for Africa, but hitherto without
+effect. We have expended millions in endeavouring to arrest the
+career of the slave trade, and upon Sierra Leone; but, in regard to
+the former, it may be stated altogether without effect. Let it not
+be supposed that I mean any reflections upon any one on account of
+the measures which have been pursued, but the expence has hitherto
+been such as to be a serious item in our national expenditure, and
+all without any good resulting to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_204">[204]</span> either to ourselves or Africa, at least
+such as offers any prospect of permanent advantage. It was only the
+other day that, for one year, L.150,000 was voted to pay Portugal
+for illegal captures of her slave ships, and L.18,000 more as the
+expences for commissions to watch over and investigate these
+matters. Large as these sums are, still they are comparatively
+trifling to what has at different times previously been paid to
+Spain and Portugal, and in rewards to our naval officers for
+seizing those very vessels which this nation is thus obliged to
+repay. A portion, however, of the sums mentioned, and not a very
+large portion, would be sufficient to commence an establishment
+such as that recommended, and which, from the trade it would draw
+to it and protect, would not only be soon able to support itself,
+but to repay whatever advances government may, in the first
+instance, have made. On this principle also ought colonies only to
+be formed in Africa, to draw wealth to Britain, not to take it from
+her. We have done much for Africa. We are the best entitled of any
+European nation to secure to ourselves whatever advantages she may
+possess. To extend and to increase these advantages, a liberal
+policy in all things is absolutely necessary, and it may be equally
+advantageous to Africa and to Great Britain that foreign
+ships<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span> should be
+admitted into such a colony or colonies with the produce of their
+respective countries which Africa may require, and be permitted in
+return to take away cargoes of African produce to their own
+countries, but to these countries alone. This, so far from injuring
+our commerce in that quarter, would tend rather to increase it, or,
+where it might militate against our interests, a trifling duty
+imposed upon foreigners, might, without materially injuring them,
+make up the difference.</p>
+
+<p>In an undertaking of this kind, we are not to be led away by too
+sanguine hopes of immediate success; because, if we are so, we
+shall be completely and unnecessarily discouraged at any untoward
+circumstance which may, in the course of events, come in our way.
+Neither are we to imagine that the population of Africa, or indeed
+any other population within the Torrid Zone, can be brought to
+exert themselves in the same manner as the hardier natives of
+temperate climates. But were the exertions of the former only
+brought to equal one half the labours of the latter, the gain would
+be immense to Africa and to the world. It would give a new turn,
+and a different tone, to the feelings and pursuits of the
+population of that unhappy country. But nothing can be done—nothing
+ever will be done, to alter their present indolent and
+inactive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> mode of
+life, till justice and general security are spread throughout these
+extensive regions. It would be vain to expect industry or exertion
+on their parts, in order to procure the comforts and the luxuries
+of life, when no one can call any thing he may possess his own, or
+where the superior wealth which he does possess serves only to mark
+him out as the prey of the unfeeling robber or sovereign despot.
+Formidable as these two scourges are in Africa, still they are only
+so to the feeble and imbecile population, whom superstition and
+ignorance have, from time immemorial, taught to bend under the
+yoke. Before the power, energy, and intelligence—before the
+firmness, prudence, and justice of Great Britain, these would
+vanish. Those fearful butcheries, under the name of
+“<em>customs</em>,” at the death of any person of note, so
+prevalent in Southern Africa, would disappear. Industry and
+commerce would rear their heads. Christianity would enter, with
+Liberty in her train; and the unprincipled despot, and the
+sanguinary freebooter, would shrink back into the deserts, and be
+heard of no more.</p>
+
+<p>The exertion on the part of Great Britain to accomplish all this
+would be small. The power of the Arab is declining; it is easy to
+contend with a power in that condition. The climate
+opposes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> some
+obstacles, the population of Africa none. The smallest gun-brig in
+our navy would lay the nations dwelling on both banks of the Niger,
+from Bammakoo to its mouth, from Bornou to Benin, prostrate before
+us, with awe, obedience, and respect. Coming as their
+friend—overthrowing what is evil— rearing up, encouraging and
+protecting what is just, we should teach the nations in these
+extensive regions to assume their rank amongst the sons of men. To
+accomplish this, we have, by means of the Niger, a safe and an easy
+road. Let no other nation pre-occupy it.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<hr class="decor width20">
+
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_209">[209]</span>TRADE AND COMMERCE<br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+<span class="large">NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="decor width20">
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_211">[211]</span><a id="c6"></a>TRADE AND COMMERCE<br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+<span class="large">NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA.</span></h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width4">
+
+<p class="center space-above1 space-below1">CHAP. I.</p>
+
+<p class="csum"><em>Colonies necessary to Great Britain — France
+anxious to colonize Africa — New markets can alone relieve our
+trade — Old overstocked — Africa, the best field — Superior
+productions — Country near the Niger — Powerful, populous,
+cultivated and commercial states — Large cities — Numerous valuable
+productions — Africa long neglected — Formerly enriched other
+countries — Articles of export and import — Particular enumeration
+and value of those most in demand — Salt — Ostrich feathers —
+Spices — Precious stones — Gums — Drugs — Dye stuffs — Gold dust —
+Ivory — Gunpowder, Fire arms, &amp;c. — Value of articles — Great
+profits on trade — Immense advantages of a water conveyance —
+Hardships attending the trade at present — Value of articles at the
+Gold coast and the interior — Extent and value of the trade at
+present — Would supply our West India Colonies with provisions —
+Obtain plenty of fine cotton — Would open up a trade to the Cape of
+Good Hope and India — Abolition of the slave trade would relieve
+and cultivate Africa — If not checked our West India colonies must
+be ruined — Infringe the rights of no<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_212">[212]</span> civilized nation in colonizing Africa —
+Three modes of establishing the trade — A chartered company the
+best — Regulations under which to be formed — Government must
+countenance and support such an undertaking — Plans to be adopted
+and pursued — General reflections on the climate of Africa, and the
+importance of the contemplated undertaking.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="dcap2">T<span class="sc">he</span> high rank and
+preponderance of Great Britain in the scale of nations, can only be
+maintained by extensive commerce. This alone can give us naval
+superiority, and that can be secured to us only by colonial
+establishments. In the present depressed state of our manufactures
+and commerce, no permanent relief can be hoped for, if new markets
+for our trade be not discovered and established. The old, of which
+we had the monopoly, have, from the industry, the skill, and
+exertions of the population of other countries, become less
+beneficial to us than formerly; and for the reasons stated, as well
+as from the poverty of other countries, the demand from us is
+greatly reduced. Besides this, we must look forward to new colonies
+to replace such as in the course of time we must lose. Amongst this
+number are our North American possessions, and the East Indies, all
+of which will, sooner or later, throw off our yoke. Our West India
+colonies are also on the decline. The system that made
+them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> is destroyed;
+and it is quite certain, that a revolution in their internal
+establishments, violent or gradual, is not far distant, either of
+which will work such a change as will render these possessions of
+little value as commercial colonies. They are also daily getting
+more and more into contact with dangerous and ambitious neighbours,
+which must render the tenure of these possessions more insecure,
+and perhaps force us into future contests, the expences attending
+which, the parent state may, from their altered economy, grudge to
+bear. All these considerations render it imperious upon us to turn
+our thoughts to commence establishments in some other parts of the
+world, that by gradual improvement these may render the decay and
+ultimate loss of some of our present colonial establishments as
+light and little felt as possible. In establishing such colonies,
+care should be taken to keep them free from the inconveniences,
+dangers, and changes to which several of our present colonial
+establishments are so much exposed. There is, perhaps, no part of
+the globe where new commercial establishments could be set down
+more easily, or where these could be more effectually protected
+than in Africa. It is at present a noble, and at present an
+undisputed, but not long to remain an undisputed field.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span>The French
+nation is most anxious and most earnest to extend their settlements
+and influence in Africa. Deprived by the Revolution and by wars,
+of, I may say, all their valuable colonial possessions, France
+looks to Africa with a longing eye. To cultivate colonial produce
+in Africa by means of her population was the idea of Talleyrand,
+and the plan of her late Imperial Despot; and nothing but the
+constant wars in which his restless and unprincipled ambition
+involved him, and his ultimate downfall, prevented him from putting
+this plan into execution, with an energy and means which would have
+altered the whole face of European colonial policy in tropical
+regions. The same advice which suggested this plan has yet the ear
+of the French government, and every proceeding on the part of
+France shews clearly, that she has the object in view as soon as
+circumstances will permit. America has also turned her attention to
+Africa; and an expedition for a settlement, and another for
+discovery, was lately sent out to the west coast of Africa for
+similar purposes and similar views. The spot that we ought to
+choose for our exertions, may—nay, must soon be pitched upon by one
+or other of these powers.</p>
+
+<p>The object which this country ought at present to attend to, is,
+as has been shortly noticed, to look<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_215">[215]</span> out for and obtain new markets for the
+productions of her industry. Laying open the trade to India and to
+China, taking off all the restrictions with which our commerce is
+at present unavoidably fettered, will merely afford a temporary
+relief to the mercantile interest of the country. Other nations may
+adhere to restrictive systems, and, at all events, we will be met
+on equal terms on that point. In and with the countries
+particularly mentioned, and many others not enumerated, we have and
+will continue more and more to have the unencumbered efforts of the
+mental skill and physical exertions of their whole population to
+contend with. To no civilized country can we at present send
+manufactures in which we do not find native manufactures springing
+up to oppose, and to be encouraged, in preference to ours. This is
+what we had reason to expect, and of which we have no just reason
+to complain. In France, Germany, the kingdom of the Netherlands,
+Russia, and Prussia, this is remarkably the case. The renovated
+governments of several nations of Europe, the moment they are got
+clear of political storms, will turn their attention to similar
+objects. In India our manufactures are met by cheapness and
+superiority. The British manufacturer and merchant may there gain
+the superiority; but, in effecting their object, both may be forced
+into sacrifices which no future compensation<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_216">[216]</span> will be able to repay; while any
+partiality shewn in that trade may very readily raise a tempest,
+which will tear up to its foundations the fabric of our power in
+India. In China we may say they exchange no manufactures with us.
+South America is convulsed with civil war, and, end as that contest
+may, still the greater part of the real property of the country,
+namely, the slaves, by whom alone the land was cultivated and
+produce raised, is, by their emancipation, destroyed; and it is
+evident that a long time must elapse before the loss is replaced or
+injury repaired under another system. The United States are
+stripped of all their neutral carrying trade, and all that valuable
+trade to our West India colonies so long their great gain and
+support; and thus situated, these States cannot, if they were
+inclined, take from us any thing like the quantity of manufactures
+which they formerly did. Besides, they are endeavouring to rear up
+manufactures amongst themselves, while the independence of South
+America will lay open to all the world a trade of which Great
+Britain, from particular circumstances, has long enjoyed almost the
+complete monopoly. It is a fact that they prefer the linens of
+Silesia and other manufactures of Germany to many articles of our
+manufacture.</p>
+
+<p>New markets, therefore, can only afford this country a great and
+a permanent relief;—new markets<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_217">[217]</span> in countries where no competition from
+manufactures produced by native skill and industry can for ages
+lessen the value of, the demand for, or come in competition with
+ours;—new markets which can supply us, in return for the
+productions of our skill, with the precious metals, and with the
+raw materials for many branches of our trade, and other articles
+which we at present must take from rival commercial states. Africa
+is that country, and the natives in the interior of the northern
+central parts thereof the people we have to look to as consumers of
+our manufactures, and from whom we can fear no competition at all.
+The introduction of gold dust alone would tend to lessen the value
+of money raised by the resumption of cash payments, and
+consequently tend greatly to lighten the load of our national
+debt.</p>
+
+<p>On the United States of America, we may say, we chiefly depend
+for the superior cottons for our finer manufactures. War betwixt
+those States and this country is by no means an improbable event.
+Their interests would no doubt, notwithstanding, lead them to get
+their cotton to a British market; but, during war, it is evident
+that it could only find its way at an enhanced rate. This
+additional price might be such as would raise the value of our
+manufactures to a price beyond what Continental nations could
+afford, or are inclined to give, and therefore<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_218">[218]</span> lead them more and more to encourage
+manufactures of their own growth, and to manufacture for
+themselves. It must therefore be of the first importance to our
+cotton manufacturers to be independent of America for a supply of
+fine cottons. Africa, as we shall presently see more at large, can
+furnish that supply. The tea trade to China is a continued drain
+upon this country for specie. From good authority, it seems that
+this valuable plant may be cultivated to advantage on the rich
+plains which extend between the Rio Volta and the Niger. Also the
+old Arabian traveller, Batouta, who had visited China, states, that
+in the interior parts of Africa, along the Niger, which he visited,
+the tea plant grew abundantly. Here is another and a mighty
+inducement to secure as ours the produce of these regions. In
+comparison with China, these parts are at the door; and the
+difference in freight and insurance alone, would give the tea there
+produced a decided superiority in the European market, and in the
+markets of every part of the western world. It could also be
+obtained from Africa in exchange for our manufactures, and not as
+from China, in exchange for specie only.</p>
+
+<p>It is to the Niger and his tributary streams that our attention
+ought to be turned. The magnitude and importance of these, have
+elsewhere been sufficiently dwelt on. The wide extent of Africa
+through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> which these
+rivers run, is susceptible of great improvement, and is every way
+adapted for trade. Here is not a barren wilderness inhabited by a
+few savage individuals, who possess not one idea of useful
+knowledge or civilized life. We should not, in Africa, wander as
+the first European settlers did on the banks of the Maranon and the
+La Plata, for hundreds of miles, without seeing a habitation where
+a half civilized human being would be content to shelter his head.
+No! numerous, powerful, and populous cities, rise around us on
+every side. The inhabitants of these are indeed unlettered
+barbarians, compared to Europeans, but the materials for a better
+state of society are most abundant, and want only a power to
+direct, to excite, and to controul them.</p>
+
+<p>Bornou is a very extensive and powerful monarchy. The capital
+thereof is so large, that travellers, in describing its magnitude,
+state, that Cairo, which contains half a million of people, “<em>is
+a trifle to it</em>.” Kashna, which is subject to Bornou, is said
+to contain 1000 towns and villages. The country is represented as
+being very pleasant, beautifully diversified with hill and dale,
+very fertile, well cultivated, abounding in docks and herds, and
+very populous. In this kingdom, they dye goat skins red and yellow
+in a very superior manner. These form a very considerable branch of
+trade with the Barbary<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_220">[220]</span> States, particularly with Morocco, from
+whence they are carried into most of the countries in Europe. The
+kingdom of Asben, of which Agadez is the capital, is a beautiful
+and a very rich country, populous and well cultivated. From Assouda
+to Agadez, and also southward to Tegomah, it is particularly so.
+Silver is said to be so plentiful in this country, that the natives
+construct their defensive armour and the corslets of their horses
+with that metal. Houssa is also a very populous country, and
+throughout all the territories included under this name, the
+population are represented as being a very superior race of people
+to any other in the interior of Africa. The environs of Timbuctoo,
+and for many days journey north-east of it, is all a cultivated and
+populous country. On the Niger, above it for several hundred miles,
+we know from undoubted authority, that the population is very
+considerable, and that both agriculture and commerce are
+successfully and extensively carried on. About the beginning of
+last century, the sovereigns of Morocco carried on a great and
+lucrative trade with Timbuctoo, by means of regular caravans,
+properly guarded, and assisted by regular establishments in the
+Great Desert. This trade, once the chief source of the wealth of
+Morocco, has been for many years nearly lost, owing to political
+revolutions in that country. It is now, however, about being
+re-organised<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span> by the
+Emperor of Morocco, under the direction of an Englishman, and upon
+a better and a securer footing than before.</p>
+
+<p>Descending the Niger, we find at Wassanah every mark of
+cultivation and commerce. Betwixt this place and Timbuctoo, there
+are, no doubt, many fine districts, particularly where Kuku is
+situated, so “famous for magnitude” in the early ages of Arabian
+power. From Wassanah to the sea, and westward to Ashantee, we hear
+of considerable attention to agriculture and unremitting attention
+to commerce. All ranks are traders in Africa. No one thinks
+mercantile matters and pursuits beneath his notice, or that he is
+degraded by following trade. On the contrary, the merchants amongst
+them are accounted the chief ones of the earth; and it is
+remarkable, that in many places traders pass free and unmolested
+between nations at war with each other. In every part of the Delta
+of Benin commerce is eagerly followed. Westward from the Rio Volta
+the population is numerous, most of them very industrious, and all
+actively engaged in business of some description or other. The
+country from the Rio Volta to the Rio de Formosa, is represented as
+being uncommonly beautiful; and the agriculture in many places such
+as would not disgrace many parts of Europe. Inland, the country
+known under the name of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_222">[222]</span> Wangara, or those parts of Africa supposed
+to go under this name, is in all probability a country considerably
+advanced in civilization. “It is the country of gold and
+aromatics,” says Bakui. Gold dust is amazingly plentiful all along
+the Niger, from the sources downwards. The quality is particularly
+fine about Bourrè above Tangarari. It is found also in Houssa, and
+about the sources of the Bahr Kulla. Silver, copper, and iron,
+abound in various parts of Africa, particularly in those countries
+situated upon the Niger, in the early part of his course, and
+towards the sources of the Senegal and the Gambia. The latter is of
+a very fine quality. Many other rich stores would undoubtedly be
+added to our knowledge were these countries explored, as doubtless
+they would be, if subjected to Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>The cities in these places are numerous and large. Sego, we know
+from good authority, contains 30,000 inhabitants; yet it is but a
+trifling place to Walet, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Wassanah, and Kashna,
+on the north-east side of the Niger. Coomassie, Yahndi, Abomey,
+Benin, Ardrah, Lagos, and many other places, are all great towns.
+Moors and Negroes no doubt amplify in their descriptions of places,
+but still, allowing largely for that, sufficient remains to shew
+the importance of all these places. The country throughout is
+covered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> with
+smaller towns, villages, hamlets; and to most of these places
+navigable branches of the Niger extend. There cannot be a doubt,
+but, that these places would prove prodigious outlets for all the
+manufactures of this country. Even at the commencement the demand
+would be considerable, and every succeeding voyage would increase
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Every kind of colonial produce can be cultivated in Africa. The
+rich soil from the Volta eastward, in all the Delta of Benin, and
+along the Niger northward, are particularly adapted for coffee,
+sugar, &amp;c. Cotton of a quality remarkably fine may be had in
+abundance. Rice is found every where, and in great quantities.
+Indian corn of the very finest quality is in all places most
+abundant, and which of itself would form a great source of wealth
+and a most valuable and important branch of commerce. Various kinds
+of dyes and dyewoods are very plentiful. The qualities are very
+superior. Some of them are said to resist both acids and light. To
+this country the importation of such articles would be invaluable.
+The fine navigable rivers render the conveyance and shipment of all
+these heavy articles of produce easy and cheap, an advantage which
+no territory distant from a water conveyance can possess. Such
+means of conveyance are advantageous every where, but within the
+Tropics these are incalculably so. The Jaboos, a<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> superior race of people,
+situated between Lagos and Benin, use the dye stuffs of the country
+with great ingenuity; and the manufactures carried on by the
+population about the junction of the Gir with the Niger are
+numerous and well executed. Immense herds of deer traverse the
+fertile plains situated north of Iffla or Popo. Teak trees and
+other very fine kinds of timber for ship-building are every where
+to be had in any quantity. Various descriptions of timber also fit
+for furniture, and some fine kinds peculiar to Africa, can be
+readily obtained. Palm oil, which finds ready market in this
+country, is to be had in abundance. But it is impossible to
+enumerate, within the bounds of a publication like this, every
+article of commerce which may even now be found in Africa. What
+must it become when science is introduced, and property and life
+made secure?</p>
+
+<p>The legitimate commerce of this portion of Africa has long been
+neglected. In early ages it was certainly of much more importance
+than it is now. There is good reason to believe that the Roman
+empire obtained the greater part of the gold which enriched it from
+the centre of Africa. After the Arabs extended their arms into
+those parts of Africa, commerce was very active, and the quantity
+of gold brought from Sudan was very great. Morocco was the great
+emporium of this traffic, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_225">[225]</span> from thence this precious metal was
+circulated into most of the nations of Europe. The Sovereigns of
+the former country were so sensible of the immense advantages which
+this trade conferred, that they carried large armies across the
+desert, subdued, and for a long time held in subjection the finest
+parts of Sudan. Timbuctoo was the chief seat of their power. With
+that city and Fez there was a regular and open communication.
+Segelmessa, and all the towns south of Mount Atlas, were enriched
+by the traffic carried on with the land of the Negroes. In the days
+of Leo Africanus, who visited all these parts, this trade was
+carried on with much industry. Segelmessa, in particular, was
+greatly enriched by it. So also was the province of Dara, in its
+immediate neighbourhood. “Their castles in this province,” says
+Leo, “are inhabited by goldsmiths and other artificers, and so are
+all the regions lying in the way from Timbuctoo to Fez.”</p>
+
+<p>Jinnë was famous in the days of Leo for cotton, and grain, and
+gold; all of which they exchanged with the caravans from the
+northward. The inhabitants of Timbuctoo were particularly wealthy.
+There were many shops of artificers and merchants, especially such
+as wove cotton and linen cloth. The king had many plates and
+sceptres of gold of great weight and value. Their coin had no
+stamp.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span> Perhaps it
+was what is now called Wangara gold bars. There are Negroes in our
+West India islands, from the interior of Africa, who distinctly
+state that there are in their countries shops and places of
+business not inferior to many in some of the best towns in these
+islands. Gago was also an important commercial station: “It is
+wonderful,” said Leo, “to see what plenty of merchandize is daily
+brought hither, and how costly and sumptuous all things be.” The
+arms of Morocco also reached this distant place, and it is said
+that Muley Hamed, son of the famous Muley Moluck, sovereign of
+Morocco, some time about the year 1590, brought from Gago 75
+quintals, and from Timbuctoo 60 quintals of gold dust, making
+together 135 quintals or 16,065 lbs. avoirdupois weight of gold,
+the whole worth about L.962,100 Sterling. (<em>Jackson’s
+Shabeeny</em>, p. 520.) The yearly tribute of Timbuctoo was 60
+quintals. Succeeding sovereigns continued to draw immense supplies
+from the same quarter of this precious metal. In the days of Leo,
+the central parts of Africa received all their foreign supplies
+from the northern side of the great desert. The length of the
+journey, and the difficulties and dangers attendant thereon,
+rendered the price of every article of foreign manufacture very
+high. Thus horses bought in Europe at 10 ducats each, sold at Gago
+for 40 and 50 ducats.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_227">[227]</span> The coarsest European cloths brought four,
+and the finest 15 ducats per ell. One ell of Venice or Turkey
+scarlet cloth, sold as high as 30 ducats per ell. A sword brought
+four crowns; spears, bridles, &amp;c. were proportionally dear.
+Salt, however, exceeded every other commodity in value. The duty in
+Gago was L.5 for a camel load of 600 lbs. The prime cost at Tegazza
+was only four shillings per load. At Timbuctoo also this article
+bore a very high value. Though some of the articles mentioned now
+reach these interior parts from the Gulph of Guinea, still their
+value in the interior is, from various circumstances, not greatly
+reduced.</p>
+
+<p>The articles chiefly imported into the different places
+connected with the trade of interior Africa are as follows, viz.
+into the eastern parts from the Red Sea, into Abyssinia, Nubia, and
+westward to Kordefan and Darfur, they import, cambrics, baft (used
+as currency,) India goods, such as Bengal silks, China silks,
+nankeens, cotton cloth, cotton stuffs, refined sugar, in small
+loaves of about four pounds each, linen, paper, sheep-skins, tar,
+looking-glasses, silver trinkets for female ornaments, soap, files,
+scissars, thimbles, needles, razors, sword blades, coral, spices,
+such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, black-pepper,
+India and Mokha beads, and a great variety of other articles. From
+the north and from the sea-coasts on the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_228">[228]</span> west, there is sold and carried into
+interior Africa, viz. manufactured silks, damasks, brocade, velvet,
+raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold, thread, paper, cochineal,
+(from France, Italy, &amp;c.) red woollen caps, baize, check
+linens, light coarse woollen cloths, blue linens, long cloths,
+superfine and plain brilliant cloths, and mixtures, and cassimeres,
+Turkey carpets, glazed cottons, printed cottons, calicoes, cotton
+netting, veils, printed and calico handkerchiefs, muslin dresses
+and scarfs, cotton stockings, dimities, creas, rowans, Britannias
+and Irish linens, plattillas, tissues, muslins, (mulls)
+gum-benzoin, gum, tartar, cassia, vitriol, brimstone, alum, copper,
+brass, iron nails, copper nails, brass nails, dagger blades,
+knives, fire-arms, powder, and shot, all kinds of hardware for
+common use, trinkets, beads, glass-ware, salt, iron, tobacco, lead,
+cocoa, coffee, sandals, cushions, Silesias, all India cotton and
+linen goods, brandy, rum, and various other articles previously
+enumerated.</p>
+
+<p>From eastern Sudan the exports are, viz. slaves, gold dust,
+gum-arabic, gum-liban, (a kind of incense much esteemed,) leather,
+whips, rhinoceros horns, very valuable, ostrich feathers, very
+fine, ebony, ivory, musk, &amp;c. To Morocco and other Barbary
+states are exported, viz. slaves, gold dust, gold bars, gold
+trinkets, <em>B’kore</em>, a kind of frankincense, greatly esteemed
+by Mahommedans, guza<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_229">[229]</span> serawie, (grains of paradise,) ivory,
+amber, ostrich feathers, gum-Arabic or gum-Sudan, gum-Copal,
+assafoetida, dyed skins, tiger skins, leopard skins, senna, manna,
+indigo, equal to that of Guatimala, hemp, &amp;c. From the south
+and from the west coasts are exported, viz. elephants’ teeth, gold
+dust, wax, honey, palm oil, rice, Indian corn, cotton, indigo,
+amber, barwood, camwood, ebony, sandalwood, hides, a great variety
+of medicinal herbs and drugs, dye-woods and dye-stuffs of very
+superior qualities, and a great variety of timber fit for
+ship-building and other articles.</p>
+
+<p>In the interior, a great trade is carried on from place to place
+in exchanging various commodities of native productions and
+produce. Shea butter, produced from the shea tree; Garoo nuts, a
+fruit eagerly sought after by all the nations south of the Niger;
+and some native trinkets and manufactures, form considerable
+branches of commerce in Africa. The latter, however, would soon
+yield to the superiority of European skill. Provisions also form a
+considerable branch of trade, in carrying these from one state to
+another, as may be found requisite. There no doubt exists other
+branches with which we are unacquainted; and many more would be
+produced were industry and security extended and put in activity
+over these extensive districts of Africa.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span>Several of these
+articles of commerce are so important, as to demand our particular
+attention and observation. From these we may obtain data to enable
+us to judge of the value and importance of other articles already
+enumerated. To begin with salt: This is an article of the greatest
+importance in commerce, and one which the population of these parts
+cannot possibly do without. The profits thereon, says Jackson,
+“<em>are extravagant</em>.” According to El Hagi Shabeeny, “<em>it
+is more profitable than linen</em>.” (<em>Jackson’s Shabeeny</em>.)
+In almost every part of Africa, it bears the same high price. In
+Dar Kulla, Browne informs us, that twelve pounds of salt will buy a
+male, and fifteen pounds a female slave. At Timbuctoo, it has been
+known so high in price that six pounds thereof was equal to the
+value of a prime slave. In Melli, a camel’s load brings from 200 to
+300 mitgalli, or minkalli, each worth about a ducat. These loads
+are generally small; for, being composed of rock salt, they do not
+carry much, lest a heavy load should chafe the backs and sides of
+the camels. These loads are sometimes more, sometimes less, and
+from 200 lbs. as high as 600 lbs. About 300 lbs. may be reckoned a
+medium load. This would make the value in Melli from 4s. to 5s.
+Sterling per lb. Leo Africanus says, he has seen 80 ducats given
+for a load at Timbuctoo. Each load costs at Tegazze, in<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> the Desert, 4s. Sterling. From
+the heart of the Great Desert, the Moors and Arabs carry on an
+immense trade in this article, to all the neighbouring parts of
+Sudan. Since the days of Edrisi also, to this day, it has been an
+extensive article of commerce from the sea-coasts on the Bights of
+Biafra and Benin, to the interior parts of the continent. It is
+carried to the most distant parts by means of the rivers. But
+having so many petty states to pass through, where the trader
+cannot protect himself, so many duties, presents, expenses and
+exactions, are laid upon it, and so many barterings and sales take
+place, that it becomes extremely dear by the time it reaches the
+interior countries, without yielding a great return to each hand
+engaged in conveying it. To the slaves brought from Houssa, and
+other countries in its neighbourhood, to the sea-coast, a piece of
+salt is the greatest rarity which can be presented to them. This
+shews the scarcity of it in the interior, and the absurdity of
+placing the Isle of Ulil and the salt-pits of the early Arabian
+geographers in those very parts of Africa where salt is unknown.
+Rock-salt is what is chiefly carried from the great desert. Such
+can be purchased in Britain, for exportation, at the rate of 12s.
+to 15s. per ton. It is needless to point out the ease with which
+European merchants and navigators could carry it into the interior
+of Africa by a water conveyance,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_232">[232]</span> and the advantages to be derived from such
+a trade.</p>
+
+<h3><em>Ostrich Feathers.</em>
+</h3>
+
+<p>This is also an important and lucrative branch of African
+commerce. Those brought from Timbuctoo, Houssa, &amp;c. are much
+superior to any that are found in Eastern Sudan, and from thence
+carried to the Egyptian market. Yet the latter sell at Cairo for
+280 piastres (L.70 Sterling) per lb. They are generally sorted in
+parcels of 10 lbs. containing a proportion of each kind from the
+best to the worst. The price at Cairo is ten times greater than at
+Shendy in Nubia. (<em>Burk.</em> p. 282.) Hence we can form some
+idea of the advantages which the merchant would derive by getting
+into the interior of Africa, and procuring and transporting these
+with the facilities which a water communication affords. Sorted for
+the Cairo market, the parcels contain 1 lb. of the finest and the
+whitest sort, 1 lb. of the second quality, and 8 lbs. of the
+coarser kinds, in equal proportions, making the parcel 10 lbs.
+which sells for 2800 piastres, or L.700 Sterling. The price at
+Shendy may be taken as a just criterion to judge of the value at
+Timbuctoo and Houssa, say 28 piastres, or L.7 Sterling per lb. In
+Britain,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> the finer
+kinds cost very high. The advantages of this branch of commerce is
+very evident.</p>
+
+<h3><em>Spices, Precious Stones, &amp;c.</em>
+</h3>
+
+<p>According to the accounts of various travellers, pimento is
+abundant in Dar Kulla. The tree which bears it is called
+<em>kumba</em>. A <em>rotal</em>, or pound of salt, will purchase
+four or five <em>mid</em>, each <em>mid</em> about a peck, or
+nearly 35 lbs. for 5s. which is about the value of a pound of salt
+in that country, (<em>Browne</em>, p. 309.) Edrisi and
+Ibn-al-Vardi, expressly describe Vancara as “the country of gold
+and aromatics.” We have seen in what part of Africa this country
+lies. Ptolemy, in his “<em>Mundi Descriptio</em>, cap. 15, states
+the remarkable fact, that in these parts of Africa, “Hyacinthus et
+chrysoprasus ibi reperiunter. Cinnamomum ibi colligitur.”
+<em>Hyacinths and chrysoprasus are there found. There cinnamon is
+collected</em>. Jackson informs us, that one of the chief articles
+of export from Sudan to Morocco is “<em>B’Kore Sudan</em>,”
+(fumigation of Sudan,) a kind of frankincense much esteemed.
+Burkhardt mentions gum-Liban as an article of value in the exports
+from the eastern parts, and which is also a kind of incense, and
+used as a medicine. As early as the days of Hanno, Africa seems to
+have been remarkable for spices. That navigator expressly mentions,
+that in his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> voyage
+between “Hesperus his Horn,” and the “Chariot of the Gods,” he
+sailed along a coast from which the gales were perfumed with
+incense. This was no doubt the <em>Mellegette</em>, or Pepper
+coast, where the Portuguese found such great quantities of pimento,
+and which, to this day, abounds there. When the trees are in
+blossom, the fragrance which perfumes the air is delightful, and
+reaches to a distance. Many other valuable articles would, without
+a doubt, be brought to light by the energy and activity which
+European intelligence would create and call forth in Africa. Once
+shew the population that the fruits of their industry is secure,
+and a market open for the same to exchange, in order to supply
+their wants, and the work is done.</p>
+
+<h3><em>Gums, Drugs, &amp;c.</em>
+</h3>
+
+<p>Senna is most abundant in the interior parts of Africa,
+particularly in the territories of Kashna. It is brought into
+Europe by way of Tripoli and Alexandria. That brought from Tripoli
+is the best, owing perhaps to the journey being shorter, and the
+article receiving more care in the packing, and less damage in the
+carriage across the desert. The King of Fezzan exacted from the
+tribes of Tibesti an yearly tribute of 20 camel loads of this
+article. Manna is also abundant in the central parts<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> of Africa, near the confines
+of the desert. About Agadez the inhabitants collect it in small
+vessels, and, mingled with water, they esteem it a very precious
+drink. It is of a very cooling nature, and therefore extremely
+useful in such a climate. Gum Arabic is particularly abundant in
+Africa. The name it there goes by is Gum Sudan. Burkhardt informs
+us, that what of this article is brought from the countries to the
+westward of Kordofan is of the very finest quality. That produced
+in the central parts cannot be less so. The value thereof we shall
+immediately and particularly consider. In proportion to its value,
+must be the value of all other commodities of a similar description
+in interior Africa. The prices, therefore, of the following
+articles in Britain, are worth attending to. The whole quoted are
+African productions.</p>
+
+<ul class="simple1">
+<li>Gum Copal, 2s. 3d. to 6s. per lb.; duty, 1s. 8d. per lb.</li>
+
+<li>Assafœtida, £5 to £10 per cwt.; duty, 10d. per lb.</li>
+
+<li>Musk, 12s. to 15s. per oz.; duty, 5s. per oz.</li>
+
+<li>Senna (Tripoli,) 3s. to 3s. 3d. per lb.; duty, 1s. 3d. per
+lb.</li>
+
+<li>Gum Ammoniac, drop, £22 to £25 per cwt.; duty, 1s. 3d. do.</li>
+
+<li>Do. <span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;do.&nbsp;</span> lump, £10
+to 10 guineas, do.; do. <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;do.&nbsp;</span></li>
+
+<li>Gum Galbanum, drop, £28 to 28 <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;do.&nbsp;</span> do.; do. 1s. 4d. do.</li>
+
+<li>Grains, Guinea, £9 to £10 per cwt. <span class=
+"word-spaced10">&nbsp;do.&nbsp;</span> 2s.</li>
+
+<li>Indigo, (Guatimala,) 8s. 6d. to 9s. per lb.; duty, 5d. per
+lb.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>The latter article, Jackson informs us, which is produced
+abundantly in Africa, is of a quality equal<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_236">[236]</span> to that brought from Guatimala, which is
+the finest that is to be got. Various other dye stuffs, and also
+dye woods, are abundant in Africa. The quality of some of these are
+so superior as to resist both acids and light. Such would be most
+invaluable to a manufacturing country like this. The Senna of
+Agadez is worth, at Tripoli, from L.4, 4s. to L.4, 10s. per 100
+lbs. That of Tibesti is only worth from L.2, 14s. to L.3 per the
+same quantity. (<em>Transact. Afric. Assoc.</em> p. 169.)</p>
+
+<h3><em>Gold Dust.</em>
+</h3>
+
+<p>This article is very abundant in all the mountainous districts
+of Africa. The following places are more remarkable for it than
+others, viz. Mandingo, the countries around the sources of the
+Niger, Senegal, &amp;c. and the country to the south of Vancara, or
+amidst that range called Mount Thala by Ptolemy. Also about the
+sources of the Bahr-el-Abiad, and south-west of the Bahr-el-Azreek,
+about Dumute and countries to the south-west. Gold is said to be
+more plentiful in those parts than in Peru. There can be no doubt
+but if a civilized and strong power were established on the Niger
+in Central Africa, that this article would circulate to it from
+regions the most remote, and hitherto unknown, and be collected by
+people who are at present careless, as not knowing what
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> make of it. The
+value of this article is different at different places in Africa,
+and is not always easily and correctly ascertained. Being easier
+transported than other merchandize, it in general approaches nearer
+its European value than articles and produce of greater bulk and
+more expensive carriage. At Fezzan and Cashna, the ounce of 640
+grains, or 9 Mitkals, is worth, in Cashna, L.4, 10s. but in Fezzan
+only L.4. At this rate, an English ounce of 480 grains, is worth,
+in Cashna, L.3, 17s. 6d., and in Fezzan only L.3. (<em>Transac.
+Afric. Assoc.</em> p. 169.) El Hagi Shabeeny states, that the value
+of gold at Timbuctoo and Fezz was as 90 at the former to 150 at the
+latter, a difference of nearly 70 <em>per cent.</em>, which would
+almost induce us to believe that there is some mistake.</p>
+
+<h3><em>Ivory, &amp;c.</em>
+</h3>
+
+<p>Ivory is a most important and lucrative branch of African
+commerce. It is to be had in considerable quantities in the
+interior. The medium value in Britain at first hand is L.21 per
+cwt. exclusive of a duty of L.3. It is bought at Houssa at about
+1½d. per lb. and sells in Morocco at the rate of 60 ducats for 200
+lbs. In Ashantee the price is about 20s. per cwt. All these
+articles mentioned, and many more of the most interesting and
+valuable kinds, medicinal herbs, drugs, dye-stuffs, dye-woods,
+colonial<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> produce of
+every kind, timber of the most valuable kinds for ship-building,
+and other purposes, would soon be found in abundance in Africa. The
+water communication which the Niger and his tributary streams
+afford lays the whole immediately and readily open.</p>
+
+<p>Gunpowder, shot, flints, and fire-arms, are every where in great
+demand, and bring an enormous profit. The exportation of these
+articles, however, from Great Britain is prohibited. The reason
+given is, that these things would tend to encourage wars amongst
+the natives, and extend the slave trade. This is an erroneous
+policy on our part, and has an effect diametrically opposite to
+what we suppose. Foreign nations carry these things into Africa to
+exchange for slaves, and for slaves alone. The consequences are,
+that the natives and powers on the sea-coasts arm themselves with
+these formidable weapons, and carefully and strictly prohibit the
+introduction of any into the interior countries. In this manner the
+former are rendered superior to the latter, who become an easy prey
+to their profligate neighbours whenever or wherever they find that
+it suits their interest and convenience. In this manner the slave
+trade is extended and aggravated, and we, at the same time, lose
+all the benefit which the sale and exchange of these commodities
+afford, without rendering Africa<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_239">[239]</span> the service we intend. If the nations
+inland could procure European fire-arms, there is not the smallest
+doubt but they would be able to repel all the hostile attacks of
+their lawless neighbours, made for the sole purpose of procuring
+slaves, whether these inroads are made by the Negro Powers from the
+sea-coasts, or the Moors and the Arabs from the Great Desert. The
+policy of both are the same on this point, and each do all they can
+to keep the population of the interior from obtaining such
+supplies, that this population may, at all times, remain at their
+mercy. All accounts, European or African, agree in their statements
+on this head.</p>
+
+<p>If Great Britain carried her arms into Africa to colonize and to
+rule over it, then her policy, and her just and wise policy, would
+be to keep, as far as she was able, fire-arms from the hands of
+every nation in the interior, but such as she can depend upon as
+being friendly and faithful to her. While this is not the case,
+however, our obvious policy is to exchange and sell such
+productions of our skill and industry as the population of Africa
+may have the greatest desire to obtain. In this manner we shall
+wrest a valuable branch of commerce from the hands of foreign
+nations, who use it for the worst of purposes, obtain the
+friendship and protection of the greater powers, and thus get our
+manufactures and our policy—our name and our greatness
+extended<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> over
+Africa. It is a mistake that the possession of fire-arms render
+wars more bloody, and nations more eager to engage in them. The
+reverse is the case, as, if it were here necessary to establish
+more fully, a reference to history both ancient and modern would
+readily prove. The extension of a trade in these articles to
+Africa, and such may be extended to an inconceivable degree, would
+be of the utmost advantage to Great Britain, and, in a particular
+manner, it would tend to relieve the stagnation of the trade in
+Birmingham, so greatly depressed from the cessation of hostilities
+in Europe, the duration of which occasioned continued and extensive
+demands for these articles from that city.</p>
+
+<p>The cotton and linen manufactures of this country are
+particularly coveted and sought after in Africa. Showy prints are
+particularly sought after by the negro women; and there cannot be a
+doubt, but when they perceive that the finer dresses are within
+their power, that these will also be eagerly coveted. The finer
+cloths would also soon find a market in the interior, and even the
+coarser would be in demand in the cold mountainous countries. The
+three following instances of the value of European articles in the
+interior, upon the authority of Mr. Jackson and others, may serve
+to give us an idea of the value of other articles, which, in all
+such as are most in request, we may rest assured, is<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> upon an equal scale. An 100
+lbs. of refined sugar brings at Timbuctoo 100 Mexican dollars,
+worth 4s. 6d. each, or L.22, 10s. Sterling. A piece of Irish linen,
+25 yards, of ordinary quality, brings 75 dollars, or L.16, 17s. 6d.
+A piece Flemish platillas brings 20 mezeens of gold, or 50 dollars,
+L.11, 5s. In order, however, to understand the subject better, and
+see it in a clearer light, we shall state the value of these
+articles, as these are rated in the trade at present carried on
+from Morocco and other places across the Great Desert, and the
+value which these would bear if carried direct from Great Britain
+by a water conveyance, and African productions brought back by the
+same means.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width4">
+
+<p class="center less space-above15 space-below1"><em>IMPORTS AT
+TIMBUCTOO.</em>
+</p>
+
+<table class="tstats" id="t241">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">100 lbs. refined sugar cost in
+Britain</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£3</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Duty in Morocco 10 per cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">9</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Freight to Mogadore</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">3</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Carriage and duties across the
+Desert</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">2</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top tdc">Costs at Timbuctoo</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£6</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Sells there for 100 Mexican
+dollars, at 4s. 6d. each</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">22</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit by this
+conveyance</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£16</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">9</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">If carried by water, charges
+would be 30s. less</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit if carried from
+Britain direct, or 300 p. cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£17</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">19</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="7" class="tdc sect2 med"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_242">[242]</span>LINEN.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">A piece Irish linen worth at
+Timbuctoo</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£16</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">17</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Prime cost in, and charges
+from, Britain,</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">3</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit, or near 400 per
+cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">7</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="7" class="tdc sect2 med">PLATILLAS.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">A piece is worth at
+Timbuctoo</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£11</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">5</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Cost in, and charges from,
+Britain, about</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">2</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit, or nearly 450 per
+cent</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£9</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">5</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="decor width4">
+
+<p class="center less space-above15 space-below1"><em>EXPORTS FROM
+TIMBUCTOO.</em>
+</p>
+
+<table class="tstats" id="t242">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="7" class="tdc sect2 med">GUM SUDAN, OR GUM
+ARABIC.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">200 camel loads, at 250 lbs.
+neat, cost 4 Mexican dollars each load</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">800</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-bot">dollars</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Camel hire to Akka in
+Barbary, at 18 dollars each</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">3600</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Statta</em>, or convoy
+duty to chiefs</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">300</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Camel hire from Akka to Santa
+Cruz, at 3 dollars</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">600</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Suppose freight and charges
+to Britain</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">600</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top tdc">Total</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">5900</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-bot">dollars</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top tdc">Value brought across the
+Desert</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£1327</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="sect05top tdl-top hang1">Gum Sudan, or Gum
+Arabic, costs in Britain, (the finest quality,) L.10 per cwt.
+including a duty of 12s.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">200 camel loads is 22⅓ tons,
+at L.200, is</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£4466</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdc">Deduct</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Duty</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£268</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">First cost, &amp;c. landed in
+Britain</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1327</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">1595</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit, or about 210 per
+cent</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£2871</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">3</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top tdc"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_243">[243]</span>If Gum Senegal, it would stand thus:</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">221 tons, at L.100 per ton,
+(neat)</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£2233</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Deduct first cost</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1327</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit, or nearly 70 per
+cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£905</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">16</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">8</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>In the preceding statement, no account is taken of the profit of
+the merchant at Santa Cruz or Mogadore, but the whole is stated as
+if the article were brought to Great Britain by the route of the
+Desert. If shipped to Great Britain by the Niger, it would stand
+thus, viz.</p>
+
+<table class="tstats" id="t243">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Neat proceeds 200 camel
+loads, or 22⅓ tons, at the price of Gum Arabic</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£4198</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">Deduct</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">First cost at Timbuctoo, 800 dollars</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£180</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Freight 22⅓ tons, at L.10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">223</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">8</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Insurance, at 5 per cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">20</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Allow for commissions</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">20</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">443</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Leaving the enormous profit
+of</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£3755</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="sect05top tdl-top hang1">If Gum Senegal,
+neat proceeds</td>
+<td class="sect05top tdr-bot">£2233</td>
+<td class="sect05top tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td class="sect05top tdr-bot">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Deduct cost and charges</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">443</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Leaving profit 400 per
+cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£1790</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Clear profit, at a medium
+between both</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£2772</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">4</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center less space-above15 space-below1"><span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span><em>TRADE BY BARTER AT
+TIMBUCTOO.</em>
+</p>
+
+<table class="tstats" id="t244">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">800 pieces Flemish platillas
+cost in Britain</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£1200</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">400 pieces Irish linen,
+ordinary quality</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1200</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Say freight and charges to
+Timbuctoo by Niger</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">600</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Cost landed at Timbuctoo</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£3000</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="7" class="sect2 hang1">In the trade across the Desert,
+these articles, in quantity and quality as above, have been
+exchanged for, viz.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">500 skins Wangara gold dust,
+each containing</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1"><span class=
+"word-spaced03">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>4 ounces, is 2000 ounces, at
+75s.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£7500</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">100 Wangara gold bars, each
+20 ounces, at 75s.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">7500</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1"><span class=
+"word-spaced03">&nbsp;</span>50 Camel loads Gum Sudan, medium
+value</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">700</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£15,700</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">Deduct</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Cost articles exchanged</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£3000</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Freight and charges gold to Britain</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1500</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="bt">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">4500</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdl-top hang1">Profit, or 370 per cent.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£11,200</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>But if the above articles were sold for gold or specie, and then
+native produce purchased, the profits on a voyage would be much
+greater, because there would be a profit both on the export and the
+import in an equal ratio. The only difficulty to calculate this, is
+to ascertain what is the value of gold at Timbuctoo. This is
+uncertain; but suppose it is the same as at Fezzan, namely, L.3 per
+English<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> ounce, we
+cannot err far. Then 400 pieces Irish linen, and 800 pieces
+platillas, would bring at Timbuctoo L.12,050, or 53,550 dollars.
+This sum would purchase 13,387 camel loads, or 1494 tons Gum Sudan,
+which would produce in Britain,</p>
+
+<table class="tstats" id="t245">
+<tr>
+<td>Less duties</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr-bot">£280,972</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Deduct freight and charges</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr-bot">29,686</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb width2">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Profit Gum Arabic, 200 per cent.</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr-bot">£251,286</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="sect05top">If Gum Senegal, would bring</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="sect05top tdr-bot">£149,400</td>
+<td class="sect05top tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="sect05top tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Deduct freight and charges</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr-bot">29,686</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Profit Gum Senegal, or 100 per cent.</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr-bot">£119,714</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Exclusive of 400 per cent. profit on the outward bound
+cargo.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="5" class="tdc sect2 med">IVORY</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Costs at Houssa 1½ per lb. or per cwt.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">14</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Freight and charges to Britain</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cost by water conveyance</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£1</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">7</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sells in Britain for</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">21</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+<td class="bb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Profit by this mode</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">£19</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">13</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>I state these things merely as a criterion to judge of the
+advantages which may be derived from such a trade and such
+communications being laid open. I am perfectly well aware that the
+quantity of the articles mentioned could not be procured at any one
+place, or, under the present<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_246">[246]</span> circumstances, at any one time in Africa.
+But various articles, all bearing a proportional value, could be
+procured. No doubt, to do so, would take some time, as there is no
+such a thing as depots of merchandize to any extent in Africa.
+Consequently great deductions would fall to be made on account of
+the expences which the greater delay attending such a voyage would
+occasion. But, as security was established in Africa, the articles
+to be exchanged would be brought to favourable spots ready for the
+market, and thus much delay and expence, which, under the present
+circumstances, must be incurred, would afterwards be avoided. It is
+almost unnecessary to observe, that as the interior is gained, the
+nations become more civilized, the country more populous, the value
+of all European goods greater, and that of all native productions
+less, and the quantity more abundant. Therefore, it is evident,
+that the trade to those parts must be most beneficial, and that the
+water conveyance will render the most bulky the most profitable, as
+being by this means more readily brought to a market. By the use of
+steam-boats, every article of commerce may safely, and
+expeditiously, and cheaply, be carried into the remotest parts of
+Africa. Already the French have got these kinds of vessels on the
+Senegal. A short time will, I hope, see such vessels placed on a
+nobler<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> stream. Nor
+is it possible to conceive a sight more surprising and grand than
+that which will be disclosed when the first steam-boat bears an
+European throughout all central Africa. The consequences will prove
+beyond all calculation beneficial.</p>
+
+<p>It would be a waste of time, and a waste of words, to point out
+further the advantages which such a trade would confer on this
+country, and on any and all who engage in it. No doubt the value of
+European articles would decrease as these became more abundant in
+the interior of Africa. But it must also be borne in mind, that the
+diffusion of knowledge, and industry, and the establishment of
+security for life, liberty, and property, would create such a
+degree of wealth and of wants, as would increase the demand to an
+astonishing degree, and thus keep up the value. The price also of
+the productions of interior Africa would no doubt rise in those
+countries, and fall in Europe, but the immense supplies which could
+so readily be procured and speedily produced, if once her numerous
+population had felt the sweets of industry, and property would tend
+to counterbalance any exorbitant rise in value from the increased
+demand. But, taking every casualty and every difficulty into
+account, still the field that remains is so extensive and so
+fruitful, that a rich and abundant harvest must be the certain
+result.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>As the principal
+part of the trade into Sudan is at present conducted, it is
+subjected to the most serious inconveniences. Besides a duty of 10
+per cent. in Morocco, and the excessive expences of land carriage,
+amounting, according to the nature of the goods, to three times or
+five times the original value, the merchandize in its passage into
+the interior passes through five different hands, each of whom
+receives from 20 to 30 per cent. of profit and duty, &amp;c. Yet
+the merchants engaged in it make rich. The African produce brought
+back is subjected to the same burdens, and, in Gum-Sudan, we have
+an instance of the enormous expence of land carriage, being more
+than five times the amount of its original cost. A water conveyance
+will remove entirely this excessive expence.</p>
+
+<p>From considering the previous statements, derived from real and
+authentic mercantile transactions between Morocco and Timbuctoo,
+&amp;c. it is evident that gold and gold dust are not the most
+profitable, though these may, in some instances, be the most
+marketable articles of Exchange. Being easier transported, gold
+commands at Timbuctoo a price much nearer to its European value
+than any other article, but particularly bulky articles of African
+produce. Though the freight of gold would be lower than any other
+article, still, its value being<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_249">[249]</span> greater, larger sums for commissions and
+other expences are necessarily paid upon it. From a trade in the
+articles we have mentioned into the interior of Africa, it is
+evident that a duty to government could very well be afforded.
+Suppose the imports into Africa amounted to one million, and the
+exports from it to as much, as there is sure data to shew would be
+the case, then the duty to government at five per cent. would
+produce L.100,000. If the land and properties in Africa paid at the
+same rate, wherever we colonized or protected, (at present they pay
+ten times the sum, not for protection but for oppression,) it would
+be very easy, in this manner, to raise a sufficient revenue to
+defray every expence attending any settlement to colonize and to
+civilize Africa.</p>
+
+<p>The whole population of Africa, high and low, are traders, and
+in some way or other engaged in trade. Already they are acquainted
+with its advantages, and some of its rules. They only want security
+and a greater degree of knowledge to make them thoroughly
+acquainted with the principles of honourable commerce. The Moorish
+and Arabian merchants, who everywhere, in perfect safety, frequent
+the markets of interior Africa, may be made the ready instruments
+of diffusing commerce from the great towns on the rivers to which
+European merchants, with their goods, can<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_250">[250]</span> have easy access into the more remote and
+inaccesible parts of the continent. They are very honourable in
+their dealings, and there cannot be a doubt, but that they would
+most cheerfully engage in conveying European goods, from places on
+the rivers to towns at a distance from their banks, rather than run
+the risk they now run, in transporting goods through the fearful
+deserts and dangers that intervene between Morocco, Fezzan,
+Tripoli, Egypt, and Sudan. All these merchants are well acquainted
+with the country, inured to the climate, and conversant with the
+different languages, even if Arabic were not generally understood
+in Africa. They may thus be made most useful and active commercial
+agents.</p>
+
+<p>To give a farther illustration of the advantages to be derived
+from a trade to Africa, I shall here adduce, from the authority of
+Mr. Bowditch, the profits on that carried on between Cape Coast and
+Coomassie, (capital of Ashantee,) and other places more into the
+interior. The expence attending it must be considerable, when we
+reflect that it is carried on by means of land carriage, through
+the immense forests, and over the hills of Southern Africa.</p>
+
+<table class="tstats padded1" id="t251">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_251">[251]</span><em>India silk</em> costs, at Cape Coast,
+L.4 per piece of 11 yards, brings 5s. per span<a id=
+"FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> at
+Coomassie, and 20s. per fathom at Yahndi—profit</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">175</td>
+<td class="tdl-bot pad03 no-wrap">per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Sarstracunda</em> (highly glazed
+British cotton, of bright red stripes, with a bar of white) at Cape
+Coast 30s. per piece, at Coomassie 2s. 6d. per span</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">400</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Glasgow Dane</em>, 30s. Cape Coast,
+at Coomassie 5s. per handkerchief</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Rum</em>, Cape Coast 10s. per gallon,
+Coomassie 7½d. per dram</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">400</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Flints, Cape Coast 5s. per 100, Coomassie
+3d. each</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">600</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Tobacco</em>, (Portuguese,) Cape
+Coast L.6 per roll, (42 fathoms) at Coomassie L.10</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto, <span class=
+"word-spaced12">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span> at Inta</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">150</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Gunpowder, Cape Coast L.4 per ¼ barrel 25
+lbs., at Coomassie 7½d. per charge of ¾ ounce</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">400</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Iron, Cape Coast L.1 per bar, Coomassie
+35s.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto, <span class=
+"word-spaced12">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span> Sallagha and Yahndi 60s.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">200</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Lead</em>, <span class=
+"word-spaced12">&nbsp;&nbsp;</span> the same</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><em>Spanish dollars</em>, 5s. Cape Coast,
+at both places 10s. (two ackies)</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">100</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Ditto, <span class=
+"word-spaced4">&nbsp;ditto,&nbsp;</span> Sansanding, 25s. to
+50s.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">600</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><em>Sal Amoniac</em> is abundant in Dagwumba, and at Ashantee,
+2s. will buy a lump as big as a hen’s egg. Small Turkey and
+Mesurata carpets bring at Coomassie 2 ounces gold, worth 75s. per
+ounce, or even L.4. The Ashantees frequently give the governor of
+the Dutch forts 2 ounces of gold for one roll of Portuguese
+tobacco.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span>The nature and
+extent of the trade at the outset, under the settlement and the
+regulations proposed, would be, <em>first</em>, the value of all
+the trade at present carried on across the Desert. <em>Second</em>,
+the whole trade at present carried on between Cape Lopez and Cape
+Palmas. <em>Third</em>, the inland trade of Africa between place
+and place in commodities and wants purely African, and particularly
+salt from the coast to the interior. These three branches are at
+once placed in the power and under the controul of those who can
+navigate and command the Niger and his tributary streams.</p>
+
+<p>The value of the present trade into the interior of Africa
+cannot be calculated with perfect accuracy. The trade from Morocco
+is about 1,000,000 dollars in exports annually. From all the other
+Barbary States, from Mourzook, Egypt, Nubia, Darfur, &amp;c. it is
+about three times as much, in all one million Sterling from the
+North (chiefly) and from the East. In the trade from Morocco the
+returns are said to be in some instances ten to one, and, in
+general, that a capital of 5000 dollars will be raised in two years
+to 20,000 dollars. The trade from Mourzook must be in a similar
+proportion, and that from Egypt, according to Burkhardt, yields
+from 150 to 500 per cent. each journey, according to the nature of
+the articles carried to market. Slaves, however, are chiefly the
+returns, at least<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span>
+those on which the profit is greatest; but in the trade
+contemplated this would form no part, and consequently the profits
+would not be in the same proportion. But, on the other hand, the
+profits would be greatly increased, from the quickness of the
+returns, and the reduced expences at which the trade would be
+conducted. The British exports to Africa, (Cape of Good Hope
+included,) were, on an average of three years, ending 1810, to the
+amount of L.830,000 annually, and the imports, exclusive of gold
+dust, L.430,000. The quantity of gold brought from the gold coast
+annually, is estimated to amount to L.400,000. Since that period
+both the exports and the imports are greatly increased. At least
+L.300,000 in imports, and as much in exports, centre in those
+places where the projected establishments would be placed. At
+present also the British trade to these places is greatly reduced,
+because other nations, continuing the slave trade, which we have
+abandoned, supply those places with a great quantity of goods which
+would otherwise have come through our hands. The extent of this
+annually it is difficult to estimate; but it is, perhaps, equal to
+our share of the imports, and, exclusive of slaves, fully one-third
+of the exports of African produce.</p>
+
+<p>To give a stronger and more correct idea of what might be the
+extent of the trade in question, it is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_254">[254]</span> only necessary to point out, and to mention
+the following fact. During the continuation of the slave trade,
+Great Britain exported manufactures to Africa to the extent of
+L.1,000,000 annually, entirely for the purpose of barter in that
+trade. It is not too much to say that all the other European
+nations sent an equal amount for the same purpose. One-half of all
+this certainly went to those places situate between Cape Coast and
+the Rio de Gaboon, but principally confined to that part of the
+coast from the Rio Lagos to the Rio Elrei. From Bonny River alone,
+it is calculated 20,000 slaves were annually exported by European
+nations. These would cost, at the lowest, L.10 each. Thus, at
+least, L.1,000,000 of European goods were annually imported into
+those parts of Africa where the Niger enters the Sea, the greater
+part of which were intended for the consumpt of the nations inland.
+The contemplated settlements would secure to Great Britain, and
+that immediately, the whole of the trade mentioned, and the
+advantages to be derived from African produce taken in
+exchange.</p>
+
+<p>This is the present trade with those parts of Africa. It would
+soon increase greatly, and include the supply of all our West India
+colonies with the finest descriptions of dry provisions, such as
+Indian corn, rice, &amp;c. and also with live-stock of every
+description, which are indispensably necessary for the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> supply and health of our naval
+force and garrisons in that quarter of the world. For all these we
+are at present chiefly dependent upon a foreign and a rival power.
+Indian corn is the finest of all food for Negroes. They prefer it
+to superfine flour. It is found to be better for their health. In
+the West Indies we have 800,000 slaves. These must require large
+supplies. From the United States we formerly imported into these
+colonies annually 647,853 bushels of corn; 431,504 bushels meal and
+flour; and 9,393 bushels rice; altogether, valued at L.440,000. The
+live-stock imported also cost a large sum, and, altogether, the
+imports from America to the West Indies exceeded half a million
+Sterling. Canada cannot supply these articles, because it does not
+produce them. Africa could supply these, and at a cheaper rate; and
+in return, take back rum, as the United States formerly did.</p>
+
+<p>Secondly, there would be an immense importation into this
+country of cotton of the finest qualities, coffee, indigo, superior
+dye-stuffs, and excellent timber, either for the purposes of
+ship-building or ornamental furniture. Africa yields all these in
+abundance. The value and advantages of all these it is impossible
+to calculate. To the United States, and to the Brazils, we give
+annually six millions for cotton, which Africa produces of a much
+finer quality. By obtaining it from Africa we should<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> thus be independent of either
+of these powers in case of war, and not only so, but we should, by
+this means, if not deeply injure their present establishments, at
+least completely check the further extension of the cultivation of
+cotton in these countries, which is one of the greatest sources of
+their wealth and their power. This, in a political point of view,
+is of itself a matter of great consequence, and a way of weakening
+a rival power of which no nation has any just right to complain.
+The introduction of cotton from Africa to any extent, would lower
+the value of the article from every other quarter, thereby
+affording our manufacturers the raw material at a cheaper rate,
+which must tend to the extension of their business, and, by
+cheapening, create increased demands for their goods. The same may
+be said with regard to coffee, sugar, and dye-stuffs. The
+advantages of a supply of ship-timber, independent of any rival
+power, are too obvious to require pointing out.</p>
+
+<p>Thirdly, under this head would be a trade to the Cape of Good
+Hope. The northern settlement would take flour and wine from the
+southern, and, through the Cape, a supply of East India goods,
+articles which are in great request in Africa. The southern
+settlement would take back from the northern, sugar, coffee, and
+various other articles, such as timber for ship-building and other
+purposes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> thereby
+mutually benefiting each other, while the wealth of each must
+ultimately flow to the mother country in increased demands upon her
+for various articles, which their labour, capital, and soil, cannot
+produce. Fourthly, we should acquire nearly all the trade to the
+Mediterranean with the Barbary powers, by carrying to their doors,
+at a much cheaper rate, all the articles which they are accustomed
+to procure from the interior of Africa. This increased intercourse
+with Britain would tend greatly to soften the asperity and
+fanaticism of their character, two things which so deeply injure
+the moral and the natural features of this fine portion of Africa.
+The severest laws of Mahomet would bend to interest, and honest
+commerce has, in every age, proved a powerful instrument to
+civilize mankind.</p>
+
+<p>From the previous enumeration, it would appear that the direct
+foreign trade of this portion of Africa which would fall into our
+hands immediately, is fully equal to three millions in imports and
+exports. From the extent and populousness of the country itself,
+from the fertility of the soil, the abundance of the precious
+metals, the cheapness of provisions, and, above all, from the
+manners and pursuits of a great multitude of the population being
+favourable to, and engaged in, commercial concerns, there is no
+reason to doubt but that, under prudent management and adequate
+protection,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> the
+trade, in a short time, would be augmented to five times, nay, to
+ten times the sum. There cannot be a doubt but that, in exploring,
+cultivating, and civilizing the tropical regions of Africa,
+immense, and as yet hidden stores for the benefit and advancement
+of manufactures, and commerce, and agriculture, would develope
+themselves<a id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class=
+"fnanchor">[10]</a>. They know nothing of the Torrid Zone who can
+think otherwise. Security will give the Africans industry. Both
+will teach them wants, and when they find that these can be
+gratified with safety, there can be no doubt respecting the
+result.</p>
+
+<p>Attention to every article of agriculture, and the demands
+occasioned for these in the regular course of trade, would be found
+the most easy, powerful, and effective engine which could be used
+to turn the attention of the population of Africa to understand
+their true interests, and consequently prove the most peaceable and
+expeditious mode of extending knowledge and civilization amongst
+them. Without roads and regular means of conveyance of goods and
+produce, such as we possess, the ignorant despot of the interior
+will never think of making<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_259">[259]</span> his slaves, or his people, cultivate or
+transport produce of great bulk, and of laborious and expensive
+carriage, in order to procure in exchange articles which he
+requires, either for ornament or for use; produce too, which is
+liable to be injured by the way, while, with a trifling labour, and
+at a still more trifling expence, the slave can be compelled to
+walk to the most distant market in order to be there sold and
+exchanged for mercantile commodities, to gratify the passions of a
+barbarous master. Nor have we any reason to expect any change while
+cut off from all ready communication with any enlightened nation,
+and not only so, but, on the contrary, everywhere surrounded by
+fanatic powers, whose interest and whose policy it is to teach, and
+encourage these sovereigns to follow an opposite course. It can
+tend to little advantage to cut off a foreign slave-trade,
+(granting that could be made effectual,) unless we teach the
+Africans how to employ their slaves in a more useful and profitable
+manner. Unless we do this, the abolition of the foreign slave-trade
+will only tend to secure a greater number of wretched victims for
+those bloody “<em>Customs</em>,” and wholesale butcheries under the
+name of sacrifices, which are so frequent in many parts of
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p>This detestable traffic must be gradually, that it may be wholly
+and entirely abolished, not only between<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_260">[260]</span> Africa and foreign countries, but in Africa
+between state and state. To accomplish this end effectually, it is
+necessary also to destroy that grovelling superstition which
+disgraces human nature in Africa, and which binds the minds of
+prince and people in the worst and most ruinous of all bondage. In
+fact, it is this which leads to personal slavery, and every evil
+which afflicts Africa. Till the chains of superstition are broken
+asunder, neither the fetters of slavery, nor the yoke of the
+slave-trade ever will. The introduction of Christianity will dispel
+the terrors of the one, and its benign influence root out and
+remove the horrors of the other. Nothing else can accomplish the
+object. It is in our power to do this. The blessings and the
+benefits which, by the exertions of men from other countries, were
+first conferred upon us, we are bound to diffuse amongst other
+nations who remain deprived of them. It is on this sure basis, the
+introduction of true religion, and the education of young and old
+in its principles and its duties, that we must build the fabric of
+our dominion and our fame in Africa. Every other means will prove a
+foundation of “sand,” which each flood of human passions will sweep
+away. But, erected on the rock of Christianity, the foundation of
+our power in Africa will be impregnable, and our dominions spread
+invulnerable against every<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_261">[261]</span> assailing foe. Christianity is the great
+enlightener and softener of human nature. Power directed by its
+principles can never fail of stability.</p>
+
+<p>Let us proceed: we have nothing to fear. The whole civilized
+world is on our side. Our immediate interference is necessary to
+rescue Africa from severer afflictions and deeper woes than any she
+has previously endured. The accounts from every quarter are most
+deplorable, calamitous, and distressing. The slave-trade is
+stalking abroad with more appalling steps than ever. Since the
+abolition of Christian slavery by the Barbary States, their fury
+and their cupidity is directed, as might have been foreseen, to the
+unhappy population of the interior. The latest accounts from these
+places are most distressing. Havoc and ruin, pillage and
+desolation, are marching in awful array over all northern Sudan,
+and whole tribes are driven away into slavery by the ruthless Moor
+and unprincipled Arab. Powerful assistance and protection can only
+terminate this dreadful state of anarchy, distraction, and misery,
+into which Africa is so deeply plunged. These alone can check those
+frightful evils, and bring peace, security, and happiness, to
+Africa. Let us plant our standard, the standard of liberty, peace,
+and order, in her bosom, wherever our power can be most commanding,
+and by good deeds, acts of kindness, and protection,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> let us draw them to be our
+willing subjects, and then we shall see what power in Africa or
+elsewhere will dare to make slaves of them—to steal—to buy—or to
+sell their children any more.</p>
+
+<p>Not only our duty, but our interests, require of us prompt and
+decisive measures on this subject, and on this occasion. It is the
+continued extension of the slave-trade which is proving the deepest
+injury to our West India colonies, and unless it is checked, the
+further continuance of it will cover all these colonies with ruin.
+The vast quantities of sugar, coffee, and cotton, which the United
+States, the Spanish and the Portuguese possessions are now raising,
+and the cheap rates at which these are produced from the continued
+importation of slaves, has driven our West India merchants out of
+every market on the Continent. It is in vain to speak about
+stopping a trade where individual and national interest are so much
+concerned, while all Africa is ready also to welcome any who embark
+in it, and while we pay such enormous sums annually to purchase
+that very produce, (cotton in particular,) which is raised by the
+labour of the slaves thus introduced. The united navies of Europe,
+and all the laws which the nations in it can pass, will fail in
+effecting the desirable object. British capital and industry thus
+strongly, though indirectly, carries on the slave-trade; for it is
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> interests of
+the governments, deriving so much benefit from its continuation, to
+wink at the conduct of their subjects who engage in it. There
+seems, therefore, no way to stop this trade effectually, and by so
+doing secure the prosperity of our West India possessions, but by
+colonizing interior Africa, and teaching and commanding the
+population there to abandon this disgraceful and abominable
+traffic.</p>
+
+<p>Every object here pointed out can be carried into effect without
+trenching, in the smallest degree, upon the immediate rights and
+interests of any civilized nation upon earth. The advantages which
+Africa would derive from such measures cannot escape the notice of
+the most thoughtless. There cannot be a doubt of the rapid growth
+and extension of such a connexion and such a commerce. Whatever
+benefits Africa derived from it, would be returned upon us with
+double interest. Those who are acquainted with the character of
+Negroes, know how eagerly they seek after our cotton manufactures,
+particularly showey prints, &amp;c. both for the purposes of
+ordinary use, and ornament upon festive occasions. They are all,
+particularly the females, fond of shew, and the outlet which would
+thus be created for the manufactures of Sheffield and Birmingham,
+Manchester, Glasgow, and Paisley, would be prodigious. The profits
+of such a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span> trade
+also are not to be calculated by the scale of that trade carried on
+from Sierra Leone and the countries on the Gold Coast. The former
+place is inhabited chiefly by captured Negroes, the refuse of
+Africa, savage, poor, idle, and indolent, and from it there is no
+conveyance by water into the mountainous interior, while the latter
+are occupied by a population, harassed, oppressed, and plundered,
+by some petty or higher despot. At the same time, they have no
+extensive communication with the wealthier countries in the
+interior. The trade proposed and contemplated will, and it is
+obvious must, have a wider range, greater facilities, and a securer
+foundation.</p>
+
+<p>It is a point of the utmost importance, and a subject which
+requires the deepest consideration, to determine the best mode of
+establishing a commercial intercourse with Africa, that shall prove
+advantageous and permanent. The following views of the subject
+present themselves to our consideration. The first is a direct
+trade with the natives of the different countries in the interior,
+conducted in a similar manner as other branches of commerce are
+carried on betwixt this country and other independent nations.
+Taking the formation of the trade in this point of view, we should
+merely have commercial without any political establishments. Thus
+situated, we must depend upon the native<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_265">[265]</span> powers in whatever country our mercantile
+establishments are formed for justice and protection; and to the
+power and interference of our own country for redress, if, in
+course of our transactions, justice is denied or protection
+withdrawn. Amidst a barbarous people, such occurrences may be
+expected; while, before punishment is inflicted, the wrong is
+committed which will undermine the security of all commercial
+intercourse. Under such circumstances also, we ought not to
+interfere, and have no right to interfere, in any shape, with any
+of the present institutions established in the interior, whether
+these be civil or religious. Thus situated, the trade must continue
+on the same footing, and consequently on the same insecure and
+limited scale which it has hitherto done during the lapse of so
+many centuries, and continue to be subject to all the vexatious
+delays and extortions with which the capricious tyranny of the rude
+and ignorant despots of Africa may choose to load it. A trade so
+insecure and liable to so many unfavourable contingencies, cannot
+possibly be profitable to any one, and consequently could not be
+durable. Under such a system, there could be no rational hope of
+any speedy improvement amongst the population of Africa, which
+improvement can only give extension and permanency to the trade. No
+doubt, a legitimate commerce, carried on with Africa<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> would, in time, tend to open
+the eyes of both the princes and the people to their true
+interests; but the progress thereof, under the most favourable
+circumstances, must necessarily be very slow; while so many
+obstructions lie in the way, so many difficulties under this mode
+of proceeding would remain to be overcome, and so many untoward
+circumstances may take place, as might very readily deter European
+merchants from prosecuting a trade under so many difficulties, and
+at last induce them to discontinue it altogether. Besides, foreign
+nations would participate in this trade. Conflicting European
+interests would be transplanted into the heart of Africa, and add
+to all those jealousies, the rivalry, and those distractions which
+already so grievously afflict and torment her.</p>
+
+<p>The second view of the subject, which occurs for our
+consideration in the establishment of this trade is, by
+colonization and conquest; for in Africa the latter would
+necessarily, and speedily, and extensively, follow the former.
+Under these circumstances, the trade contemplated might safely be
+left free to the capital and industry of any British merchant or
+subject who might choose to engage in it. All that would be
+necessary in this case, in order to secure the most beneficial
+results to this country and to Africa, would be to prevent foreign
+nations from participating in this trade upon<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_267">[267]</span> equal terms. At the outset, individuals
+might lose in this trade. The markets might, and in all probability
+would, be overstocked with supplies, both such as are proper and
+such as are improper; such as are calculated for the present wants
+of the natives, and such as are not calculated for that purpose.
+The loss, however, thus occasioned, would not be a national loss.
+Foreigners would derive no benefit therefrom. What one British
+subject lost another would gain, and in time every thing would be
+reduced to order. The supply would be suited to the demand, and the
+competition would be confined to those articles which are best
+adapted to the market. The capital and industry of all would have a
+fair, open, and honourable field for exertion. Under such
+circumstances, it might be most advisable to lay open, establish,
+and carry on the trade contemplated. This mode would certainly be
+most consonant to the present feelings of the population of the
+British Empire: but I am not sure, and indeed have strong doubts,
+if it would prove soonest and most extensively beneficial, either
+to this country or to Africa. The situation and interests of the
+latter must never be lost sight of, because it is only by bettering
+or improving her condition that we can greatly benefit
+ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The next mode of establishing this trade is under a chartered
+company. This may be done after<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_268">[268]</span> the manner of the East India Company. In
+duration, however, it may and ought to be greatly limited, so as to
+render it expedient for those to whom it is granted to carry on the
+trade with energy, in order to reap every possible advantage from
+it, and that it may not be left to languish, as might be the case,
+if the period was greatly extended. On the other hand, the duration
+of it ought not to be narrowed too much, otherwise that
+circumstance would tend to discourage the merchant, and prevent him
+from laying out money at the first outset, to any considerable
+extent, or from embarking in the trade with that energy and vigour
+which could only render it productive and successful, or reimburse
+him for his labour expended and capital advanced. Perhaps 15 years
+might be a very fair period for the duration of such a charter.
+With diligence and activity, the time mentioned would render it an
+object well worth the attention of mercantile men, and nothing more
+than the encouragement which the nation ought to give for the
+labour in forming, or I may say creating, a commerce which is
+altogether new to this country, from which, through the individuals
+engaged in it, the nation derives immediate benefit, and lays, in
+the only way in which it can be securely laid, the foundation of a
+trade, from which the whole nation<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_269">[269]</span> may fairly anticipate, and are certain to
+derive, at a future period, still greater advantages.</p>
+
+<p>A charter, for the purpose contemplated, may either be extended
+or reduced, in regard to the numbers and capital engaged in it, as
+may be found most eligible or necessary. As the nature of the
+commerce in view, both as regards exports and imports, will
+naturally confine itself to the three chief commercial ports of
+this kingdom, namely, London, Liverpool, and Glasgow, and that in
+nearly equal proportions, so the charter may be granted to an
+extent proportionate to the magnitude of each of these places, and
+in a manner such as those merchants who are inclined to embark in
+it may regulate and determine. Their interest would lead them to
+choose the port which would prove the most conducive thereto, from
+whence they could send supplies, and to which they would direct the
+returns to be made. A power might be vested in the Board of Trade
+to examine into the general management of the chartered company,
+and to regulate these upon the strict principles of national
+justice and national advantage.</p>
+
+<p>A charter for the purposes mentioned, and under such
+circumstances, can scarcely be called a monopoly. It is indeed an
+exclusive privilege in trade, but then this exclusive privilege is
+for a trade yet to be formed—a trade which neither this
+country,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> nor any
+other civilized nation, are, or have previously, been in possession
+of—a trade, which it is a very doubtful case if this country ever
+could possess, (certainly not so soon, if at all,) to the extent to
+which she would command it, if gone into under the regulations and
+privileges recommended. No legislative interference with, or
+burthens imposed upon, any other settlement in Africa, is required
+or expected. It is not solicited or contemplated, that the produce
+of any other country or colony should be prohibited from entering,
+or be taxed upon its entering, any of the ports of Great Britain,
+(the great and most objectionable features in other charters,) in
+order to enhance the value of, or insure a preference in, the
+consumption of any articles which may be brought from Africa under
+the privilege here recommended. No prohibitive or protecting laws
+in any branch of commerce are thought of. On the contrary, it is
+proper, and it is expected, that all branches thereof should be
+left free and open to the competition of capital, skill, and
+industry.</p>
+
+<p>The judicious application of charters is one thing, and the
+injudicious grant of them another. To a trade carried on with any
+civilized country, every exclusive privilege is injurious. The
+reason is obvious. There law, justice, and order prevail. Every
+individual is equally protected, and no evil consequences can
+result from competing interests. To<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_271">[271]</span> an uncultivated and uninhabited country,
+similar regulations are equally, if not more injurious, because the
+prosperity and advancement of the same, in every branch of
+improvement, depends upon the ability, caprice, liberality,
+capital, credit, and judgment—the good or bad fortune of those who
+obtain such an exclusive privilege. With a populous, but a
+barbarous country, incapable of organizing any thing that is stable
+or advantageous for itself or its neighbours, a very different line
+of conduct is rendered necessary. Without a chartered company,
+Great Britain never could have achieved what she has done in India,
+nor reared such a noble fabric of commerce and civil government as
+she has there done. Yet when Britain entered that part of the
+world, India was peopled by civilized nations. Compared to what the
+inhabitants of India were, the people of Africa are rude
+barbarians. Compared to what the population of India are now
+become, the inhabitants of central Africa are mere savages. It may
+be for the greater advantage of Great Britain and of India, that
+the trade to the latter should now be thrown open, but it never
+could have been for the interest of either that this should have
+taken place at an earlier period. The situation of Africa, however,
+is totally different. There every thing is to do. Regular commerce
+is to be created. Society is almost altogether to be formed.
+Security and civilization,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_272">[272]</span> law, order, and religion, are each and all
+yet to be introduced into and planted in Africa. Unity of action
+and design, therefore, becomes absolutely necessary to accomplish
+all these desirable objects. Conflicting interests, amidst such a
+disjointed population, must, and will, indefinitely retard it. A
+charter is clearly and indispensably necessary, in order to conduct
+mercantile affairs to a prosperous issue—in order to regulate the
+supply, to explore the country, and find out the proper markets—to
+negotiate, as an irresistible and stable power, with the native
+princes—to purchase lands, to protect trade, to punish
+aggression—to rear up, gradually an empire in Africa, such as has
+been done in India, against which no native power shall be able to
+raise its head. Then, but not till then, the trade may be thrown
+open, but the territorial power of the charter may, as in India,
+remain.</p>
+
+<p>Without such regulations for a time, there is too good reason to
+dread that our connection with Africa will never be more than the
+transient visitations of insulated merchants acting without
+concert—often contrary to one another—glutting the markets, pouring
+in ill-timed and improper supplies—raising the price of native
+produce above its value, and depressing each other’s commodities;
+in short, strengthening the hands of the native tyrants, and
+enabling them more easily to dictate hard terms to
+commerce,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> to shut
+up the interior altogether, and to enable barbarous hands, or
+savage life, still to hold the balance in that ill-fated country.
+The whole of our establishments on the coasts of Tropical Africa,
+afford, at this moment, a sad confirmation, and striking
+illustration of these important truths. If this erroneous policy in
+their intercourse with Africa is still to be continued by European
+powers, then, to the latest period of time, the central and
+southern parts of that vast continent are doomed to remain in the
+same deplorable state of ignorance, degradation, and misery, which
+has been their lot during the lapse of 3000 years.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt the capital, skill, and industry of British merchants,
+can do much, and overcome difficulties which perhaps the merchants
+of no other nation can. If government established powerful
+settlements in Africa, and rendered Great Britain respected,
+feared, and obeyed, then there could be no danger with regard to
+the ultimate success of the trade, though laid open to all. But, in
+this case, a very considerable expence must be incurred by the
+nation, without any adequate or immediate return; whereas, in the
+other case, that return, and the expense incurred for protection,
+would go hand in hand. The question for the consideration and
+decision of government in this case, is, which method<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span> will prove the most secure and
+permanent, and soonest become the most beneficial to individuals
+and to the national interests, and at the least possible outlay or
+expense? The plan that can accomplish these things, is that which
+should be chosen, and acted upon without hesitation or reserve. For
+the reasons already mentioned, as well as for various others too
+tedious to enumerate, a chartered company for a limited time seems
+the most advisable way to enter upon and establish the contemplated
+trade. On such an important point, however, I would wish it to be
+understood, that the opinion here given is adduced with great
+deference.</p>
+
+<p>The trade to Central Africa ought to belong exclusively to the
+subjects and the people of Great Britain. Every article which the
+people on the Niger can require for convenience, ornament, or use—
+all implements of agriculture—all articles for domestic
+purposes—for dress, for navigation, commerce, manufactures,
+science—in short, every thing that a population advancing from the
+rudest state of society, through all the intervening stages to the
+most enlightened, can want, are almost exclusively the productions
+of the British soil, or of British industry. Our finer manufactures
+would be chiefly sought after for the light dresses adapted for the
+climate; but the coarser and the warmer would in some instances
+also be sought after, by those people<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_275">[275]</span> who live amidst the African Andes. Where
+the fine and costly manufactures of other nations were in request,
+then, coming through our hands, we should make it more their
+interest to be on friendly terms with us. If the trade to Interior
+Africa, carried on by barbarians, with our goods sold to them in
+the first instance at a fair price, and then carried thither by
+them, subject to all the danger, delay, expense, exactions, and
+robberies, which unprincipled despots, and lawless freebooters heap
+upon them—if this trade yield them such extensive profits as it
+really does, what must the British merchant gain who can carry
+these goods from the first hand, at the first cost, and land these
+at Timbuctoo almost as cheap as they can at present be landed at
+Mogadore, Algiers, Tunis, or Tripoli? How much could he under-sell
+both the Moor and the Arab, either in the imports to the interior,
+or the exports from it, while his goods would at all times arrive
+at their destined market in a state superior to what it is possible
+theirs at present can now do? Besides, the conveyance by water
+would enable us to carry many articles to those markets which, from
+the nature of the articles, cannot possibly now be got transported
+into the interior by land carriage.</p>
+
+<p>A trade such as that contemplated, may employ a capital of any
+extent; but at the outset, under a company, there is no necessity
+for its being great.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_276">[276]</span> On the contrary, it is evident, that from
+the situation in which Africa is, the trade, to do good to any
+party, must feel its way—must make itself. The articles which would
+be chiefly exported in its early stages, would be of the coarser
+and cheaper kinds, and the returns of a description that will
+command a ready market. Small vessels, both for expedition in the
+voyages, and also for navigating the rivers, would be the best in
+the commencement of the undertaking. Indeed, till the latter are
+completely explored, small vessels are indispensable. Some time
+must elapse before all these points can be fully known. Till then,
+it is evident the trade cannot be forced, while, at the outset, it
+may very readily be overdone.</p>
+
+<p>In an undertaking of this kind the countenance and support of
+government is absolutely necessary, in order to induce merchants of
+capital, credit, and character, to embark in it. To be done
+correctly and advantageously, every thing must emanate from one
+source in Africa, whether it regards civil government or commerce.
+Unity in design, and obedience to the dictates of one authority,
+can alone render the present plan completely successful. The
+reasons urged against the exclusive privilege of trade to a
+civilized state do not apply in this instance. The trade, open to
+all, would create conflicting interests, which would retard and
+endanger,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> if not
+altogether prevent the accomplishment of the grand, the ultimate
+object in view. Besides, it is one thing to embark in a trade to a
+country where civilization, law, and justice prevail, and another
+to engage in one to a country where all those things are yet to be
+formed. The latter requires an exclusive privilege to induce and
+protect the adventurers, while the trade, in the same or similar
+articles with other parts of the world, remaining upon its present
+footing, or without any preference to either, will always prevent
+the apparent monopoly from injuring the general interests of the
+parent state by exorbitant prices, while the competition they have
+to meet with from other markets, would compel the merchants engaged
+in the trade with Africa, to be diligent, prudent, and industrious.
+Unless such a privilege were granted, there is too much reason to
+dread, that every object at present contemplated will fail, and
+that the nation, as well as individuals, will thereby sustain a
+great and irreparable loss. Conflicting interests also would lower
+us in the eyes of the natives, and prevent us from acquiring and
+maintaining that superiority in Africa indispensably necessary for
+our protection, and for her civilization and improvement. In
+Africa, as in India, opinion gives power. Without power in Africa
+we could not effect any thing.</p>
+
+<p>The persons to be employed under government<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_278">[278]</span> in these parts should be men who are
+willing to serve their country for their country’s good. They ought
+to be amply remunerated for their services, and their public duty
+ought not to be forgotten or sacrificed for private emolument.
+Their business and their duty is to see justice impartially
+administered to all, and to raise the honour and fame of their
+country on a sure and a permanent basis. The settlement must, for
+as short a time as possible, be rendered burthensome to Great
+Britain. Africa is to receive the benefit, and ought to and must
+defray the expence. All expences attending civil and military
+establishments must be borne by Africa. A trifling tax imposed upon
+the property of the country under our controul, would be adequate
+for this purpose, as, at the outset, these need not be large. As
+these increased, Africa, from the benefits received, would be more
+able to defray the additional expence. A tenth—a twentieth part of
+what the population of Africa now pay to those from whom she
+receives no benefit whatever, would now, and, at any future period,
+be more than sufficient for this purpose. The blessings of good
+government, true religion, peace, and security, would by this
+tribute be cheaply purchased.</p>
+
+<p>All expences, merely commercial, or in any way relating thereto,
+such as travelling expences for agents, salaries for servants in
+the employ of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span>
+company, or for the furtherance of any object connected with their
+immediate and exclusive interest, ought to be borne by the
+mercantile body engaged in the undertaking. A public fund should be
+set apart to defray the expences of exploring the country, in order
+to form connections and establishments in more distant parts
+thereof. But as this tends to the benefit of this nation—of Great
+Britain and Africa, an allowance (till the revenue of the latter
+can defray the expence) should be made out of the public purse to
+the mercantile body for this purpose, government having the power
+to require satisfactory information how the money has been
+expended. The interest of the merchant would induce him to pay
+liberally, and, at the same time, to proceed economically. In all
+undertakings of this kind, mercantile men can prevent or rectify
+abuses easier than any government can do, and, therefore, it
+becomes more proper to bestow upon them such an authority, and such
+an exclusive privilege, as is here pointed out.</p>
+
+<p>The expence of embassies to the courts of the native powers,
+which ought to be frequent, should be borne by Britain at the
+outset, and afterwards by the colonial government. The former ought
+to lend her name and authority to individuals resident in large
+cities as consuls or persons exploring the country, thereby
+conferring upon all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span>
+these persons a degree of importance highly necessary in Africa,
+and which would not fail to claim respect from the sovereigns and
+the people. In all the chief towns men of this description should,
+as soon as possible, be placed, in order to gain the most correct
+knowledge of the country, its productions and wants, and to buy,
+sell, receive, or send off these productions and supplies, to the
+general depot where these articles are directed to be collected in
+their voyage to, or from Europe, and other places. This mode of
+proceeding would sooner teach the natives the value and utility of
+their productions and their labour.</p>
+
+<p>The concern being for the general benefit of the nation, should,
+from the outset, receive the cordial and unremitting attention and
+support of the nation. In all matters, either civil or political,
+every establishment must be under the controul of the British
+government. In political matters and civil government, none must
+lift a hand or a foot in Africa without permission from it. In
+every thing relating to commercial affairs, the direction and
+management must remain entirely in the hands of the company and its
+servants, while, at the same time, the servants of government must
+be instructed to render the merchants every protection and
+assistance requisite to prosecute and extend the trade. This
+company, by their charter, ought to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_281">[281]</span> have the power to extend their capital as
+they may see necessary. This capital may consist of transferable
+shares. These shares may be smaller or larger, as may be judged
+most convenient. The smaller, however, the better, as it will give
+a greater number of persons an opportunity to engage in the
+undertaking, and thus create a greater interest in the mother
+country for the welfare and prosperity of these African Colonies.
+Government, in the first instance, must be at the expence of every
+outlay for permanent military establishments, such as proper
+fortifications and adequate garrisons; but both the principal and
+the interest of the outlay ought, as soon as possible, to be paid
+from the proceeds of internal taxation, laid on such things as may
+be found most eligible. All regulations, laws, and measures for the
+government of these colonies, must be formed by the British
+Government and Legislature, or subject to their approval and
+revisal, always, however, restricted, (could that be supposed
+necessary,) in so far as these shall not militate against the
+interests of the company or main object of the undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>Provision should be made in every place for the teachers of
+religion, and the instructors of youth. A fixed revenue should be
+raised and appropriated for this purpose; and it is the people of
+Africa, and others who may derive benefit from it, who
+should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> defray the
+expence. The superstition which degrades and debases Africa must be
+vanquished by the spirit and the precepts of the Gospel; and the
+other, namely, human sacrifices, wherever we may find these, be
+prevented by the arm of power, if necessary. No expence ought to be
+spared to accomplish these objects. In this the authority of the
+company and of the government should go hand in hand. The blessings
+of the British constitution should be gradually extended to the
+colonists, as their intelligence, power, and resources increase. At
+the outset this could not be done with safety. Justice, however,
+must be most carefully administered; and in every thing, Europeans
+must set a good example, that the liberty bestowed upon the African
+population may not be construed by them as a path to
+licentiousness. All kinds of African produce and commodities should
+be admitted into Great Britain and her other colonies, upon the
+same terms as those articles are admitted from other places, with
+the exception of sugar, the great staple of our West India Islands,
+where so much British capital is vested, and whose cultivation is
+so expensive. A considerable time, however, must elapse before any
+establishment could be formed in Africa to cultivate sugar to an
+extent which could affect the market. There are other points for
+regulation, which a due consideration of this important<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span> subject, in all its bearings,
+and the wisdom and liberality of the British government, will,
+either now, or in due time, supply. Having thought much and long on
+the subject, I only hint at this with due deference to the opinion
+of the government and of the public.</p>
+
+<p>Minor criminals, who are sentenced to be transported from Great
+Britain, may be sent to Africa to aid in colonizing it. The
+punishment also of many offences against our laws, such as theft,
+house-breaking, forgery, &amp;c. when these are not attended with
+the most aggravating circumstances, and which are at present
+capital, may be commuted into banishment to an African colony.
+Many, very many of those unhappy individuals who forfeit their
+character and lives to the violated laws of their country, and many
+who are expatriated from it, are not destitute of talents, and, if
+spared, might become useful members of society. In Africa, from
+necessity, they must become sober and industrious, or they would
+soon end their days. But if they behaved well, they might become
+greatly serviceable to their country, to themselves, and to
+mankind. In Europe, the remembrance of errors stamps an inferiority
+upon them in the eyes of every one, and which too often overcomes
+every resolution of amendment, and, considering themselves
+proscribed outcasts, they are hurried headlong<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_284">[284]</span> into the commission of greater crimes.
+Removed, however, into the midst of a population such as are in
+Africa, they would assume an importance in their own eyes, which
+would act as a stimulus to keep them in the paths of virtue. They
+would see human nature degraded below them, and men more ignorant
+and rude than themselves. They would feel their superiority. They
+would strive to maintain it. By doing good to others, which they
+would then have in their power, the better disposed would endeavour
+to make amends for the injuries which they had previously inflicted
+upon society. The worst amongst them could still teach multitudes
+in Africa much useful knowledge. Removed from the scenes of their
+folly and their crimes, and the inducements which led to these,
+there would be few, indeed, who would not strive to retrieve their
+characters and their fortunes.</p>
+
+<p>For a first offence, expatriation from friends, country, and
+civilized society, is, and must be, the severest punishment:
+removed to Africa must prove particularly severe. Let the condition
+of their restoration to society be their merits, activity, and
+character in Africa. It is our duty to reclaim, more than to
+punish—to restore, rather than to cut off a member from society. In
+this we follow, and, ought to follow, the footsteps of him who came
+to seek and to save—to preserve, not to destroy those<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> who had erred. Perhaps 1000
+convicts annually might be sent from Great Britain to Africa—1000,
+every one of whom might, under judicious authority, in some degree
+be made instrumental, in places of the greatest danger, to teach
+useful knowledge to the ignorant African. Under the controlling
+authority established there, the convict, from the hopes of
+forgiveness and restoration to a better rank in the scale of
+society, would be led to amend his own life, and reclaim the most
+degraded and benighted of his fellow creatures. All, perhaps, would
+not act such a part. But many would. If, however, this plan
+succeeded in reclaiming five out of ten, and in making these
+outcasts from British society the instruments of instructing Africa
+in any of the arts and labours of civilized life, how great is the
+good that will thereby be effected!</p>
+
+<p>In this voyage (if I may use the expression) for the improvement
+of Africa, there are two fatal rocks which we must carefully avoid,
+if we wish to escape shipwreck. The first is, that, although the
+precious metals (gold in particular) abound in Africa, still we
+must take care to direct the exertions of her people to those
+labours of greater importance, the profits of which can, at all
+times, command the precious metals, and which productions ought, in
+this case, as well as in every other, to be only a secondary
+object. The next is, we ought not to go<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_286">[286]</span> to Africa with the rooted idea, that it was
+Europeans who occasioned slavery, and created a slave trade in, and
+with, Africa. If we adopt this erroneous opinion, in order to act
+upon it, we shall never take the right path or proper means to root
+out the one, or to destroy the other. It is Africa herself, as has
+already been remarked, that is the great root of the evil, though
+her guilt does not constitute European innocence, wherever the
+latter has participated in, or yet continues the traffic.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of Africa is not worse than in other tropical
+regions of the earth, particularly the coast of America from the
+Rio Bravo to Rio de Janeiro. On the contrary, about the mouths of
+the Orinoco, and all along the coast to the mouth of the Maranon,
+it is more unhealthy than any part of the coast of Africa in the
+neighbourhood of Benin and Biafra. With proper attention in forming
+settlements, healthy spots may be found. It is quite evident, that,
+in the interior of Africa, such places must be numerous, and that,
+freed from the noxious vapours so prevalent about the mouths of
+rivers on the coasts, the greatest danger to the health of
+Europeans would be the sudden transitions from heat to cold, which
+must occur among the prodigious mountains of Africa. The heat, on
+these coasts, is by no means oppressive or so great as in other
+places. The sky is much obscured with clouds, which
+mitigate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> the heat
+greatly. With care, these regions of Africa offer no greater
+objections to forming settlements in them than many other places so
+eagerly coveted by Europeans, and so widely colonized.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">I have thus, though feebly I confess, in
+comparison to the magnitude of the subject brought forward,
+completed the object which I had in view, namely, to call the
+attention of the British government, and the power and energies of
+our people, to an honour of the first rank, and, at the same time,
+endeavoured to rouse the resources and enterprize of our merchants
+to engage in a trade of the first magnitude. By means of the Niger
+and his tributary streams, it is quite evident, that the whole
+trade of Central Africa may be rendered exclusively and permanently
+our own. The object, at all times of the highest importance, is, at
+the present moment, become more particularly so. The feelings and
+the efforts of this great nation would most cheerfully embark in
+the enterprize. To support and carry into execution the measures
+necessary to accomplish this undertaking is worthy of the ministry
+of Great Britain, and worthy of the first country of the world. It
+will confer immortal honour on our native land—lasting glory on the
+name and reign of George the Fourth—bring immense and permanent
+advantages to Britain, and bestow incalculable
+blessings<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span> and
+benefits on Africa. Agriculture, and manufactures, and commerce,
+and learning, and religion, will spread rapidly and widely over a
+country abounding in the richest productions, whether on the
+surface of the earth or below it, but, at present, a country
+overspread with the most abject servitude, and sunk in the deepest
+ignorance, superstition, and barbarity. Every obstacle will vanish
+before judicious and patient exertions. The glory of our
+Creator—the good of mankind—the prosperity of our own country—the
+interest of the present, and the welfare of future
+generations—glory, honour, interest, call us, and, united, point
+out the sure path to gain the important end. Let but the noble
+Union Ensign wave over and be planted by the stream of the mighty
+Niger, and the deepest wounds of Africa are healed. Round it, and
+to it, the nations from Balia to Darfur, from Asben to Benin, would
+gather for safety and protection—the slave would burst his fetters,
+and the slave trade be heard of no more. The road to effect this is
+open— It is safe—It will soon be occupied by others; and, if we
+hesitate, the glory and the advantages will be wrested from our
+hands.</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above2">FINIS.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="divprinter">
+<hr class="decor width12">
+
+<p><em>Printed by Balfour & Clarke,<br>
+Edinburgh</em>, 1821.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
+"label">[1]</span></a>There is some reason to believe that the
+Latitude as here given, may have been transposed in transcribing,
+and thus the Latitude placed for the Longitude. But, having no
+access to any copy but one, I have not the means of ascertaining
+this point. If this transposition has taken place, then the
+Sagapola Mountains would be a continuation of the Usargala
+Mountains, and a chain extending on the south side of the desert,
+till it joined Mount Mandrus. On the other hand, as the river
+Subos, which enters the sea in 29° North Lat. is said by Ptolemy to
+flow from those mountains, it would fix them as being part of the
+grand chain of Mount Atlas.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
+"label">[2]</span></a>I strongly suspect that the longitude here
+has also been transposed for the latitude.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
+"label">[3]</span></a>Verum recentiores Melli regnum claudunt à
+meridie Melligetico littore, quo ab regno Melli regnam nomen
+accepisse contendunt. Ceterum Melligetam terminant ab oriente
+promontorio Palmarium à meridie autem oceano. (Geog. Joannis Blaev.
+pars tertia, p. 121. Amsterdam, 1662.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
+"label">[4]</span></a>The country of the negroes is called by the
+Arabs Belad el Abeed, (Country of Slaves,) and Belad el Genewa, the
+same as Djenawa. (Geog. Joannis Blaev. pars tertia, p. 101.
+Amsterdam, 1662.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
+"label">[5]</span></a>P. 21. Regnum hoc multis Guineæ insignitum
+vocabulo, diversumque a vasta illa Guineæ regione quæ meridium
+versus ultra Gago Guberque est regna, mercatoribus Afris, Leone
+teste, Genehoa; Arabibus, Marmolio auctore, Genewa; incolis autem
+Genni seu Genee appellatur. (Geog. Joannis Blaev, pars tertia, p.
+104. Amsterdam, 1662.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class=
+"label">[6]</span></a>In the Encyc. Brit. 5th edition, Gago is said
+to be situated south of Timbuctoo and Houssa, and near a range of
+hills that run from east to west, from whence issue many rivers
+that flow north to the Niger. South of Gago is Dahomy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class=
+"label">[7]</span></a>“Ab Orientes montes, qui in Deserta quædam
+procurrint; a Septentrionibus autema lios quodam montes permeandos
+ad Guineæ Mellegeticumque littus ituris,” p. 122.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class=
+"label">[8]</span></a>It is a curious fact, that at Coomassie, the
+capital of Ashantee, Bowditch met with a very intelligent Arab, who
+had witnessed the battle of Aboukir. He particularly mentioned the
+blowing up of the L’Orient, and at the very hour (10 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>) that it took place. He was at Cairo at that time
+when the French army, he says, came, ill-treated every one, “took
+all, and paid for nothing;” and he was there when the British army,
+with the Turkish force, drove them away. The British treated every
+person well, and paid for every thing. Such were his accounts,
+which, as we know well, are perfectly accurate.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class=
+"label">[9]</span></a>A span is 9 inches; 8 spans to a fathom. In
+Inta only 6 to the fathom.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class=
+"label">[10]</span></a>With the parts to which the trade is at
+present contemplated, the Romans and Egyptians, in the days of
+Ptolemy, seem to have been well acquainted. Of Africa he says, “Est
+autem illa pars mundi quæ Aphrica dicitur minor spacie quam Asiæ
+vel Europa: sed pro sua quantitate ditior est et mirabilior in
+quantitate. Nam in auro et gemmis ditissima, est similitur in
+frugibus, fructibus et olinis. Mirabilissima etiam producit
+bestiarum et hominem species et figuras,” &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>The changes in the <a href="#err">ERRATA</a> regarding the text
+have been made.</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_1">1,</a> Changed: "<em>by Ptolemy,
+Ednisi</em>" to: "<em>Edrisi</em>"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_1">1,</a> Changed: "<em>Sheabiddin, Macknisi,
+Batouta</em>" to: "<em>Mackrisi</em>"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_13">13,</a> Added ” after "sunt Gir et
+Niger."</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_14">14,</a> Changed: "Arabian chroniclers,
+viz. Bukri and Mishundi" to: "Mishuudi"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_32">32,</a> Changed: "the kingom of Melli was
+situated" to: "kingdom"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_36">36,</a> Changed: "Abulfeda also confirms
+is account" to: "this"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_40">40,</a> footnote <a href=
+"#Footnote_5">5,</a> Changed: "Amsterdam, 1669." to: "1662"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_42">42,</a> Changed: "once powerful kingom of
+Eyeo" to: "kingdom"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_89">89,</a> Changed: "9° 30′ east longitnde"
+to: "longitude"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_102">102,</a> Changed: "river coutinue
+westward to Kassena" to: "continue"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_103">103,</a> Changed: "where the ferrry men
+reside" to: "ferry"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_109">109,</a> Changed: "will be beween Cano
+and Kashna" to: "between"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_123">123,</a> Changed: "when the “<em>the
+water ran</em>" to: "when “<em>the water ran</em>"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_167">167,</a> Changed: "and 0′ 45′ west
+longitude" to: "0° 45′"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_168">168,</a> Changed: "mouth of of the Rio
+Volta" to: "mouth of the"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_172">172,</a> Changed: "Yahndi in north
+latitude 8° 38°" to: "8° 38′"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_174">174,</a> Changed: "calculate the
+advaatages that would" to: "advantages"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_177">177,</a> Changed: "us the monoply of the
+trade" to: "monopoly"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_179">179,</a> Changed: "empire can so well
+mantain" to: "maintain"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_234">234,</a> Changed: "from the tribes of
+Tihesti" to: "Tibesti"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_246">246,</a> Changed: "value of all
+Euro-ropean goods greater" to: "European"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_272">272,</a> Changed: "connection with
+Af-frica will never" to: "Africa"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_277">277,</a> Changed: "prevent the apparent
+monoply" to: "monopoly"</li>
+
+<li>Additionally, some changes in punctuation have been done
+silently.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78384 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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