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diff --git a/78384-0.txt b/78384-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..741f6f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/78384-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6596 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78384 *** +[Illustration: A MAP OF AFRICA North of the parallel of 7° South +Latitude; _Shewing the course & direction of the principal_ Rivers & +Mountains, _particularly of the_ NIGER & of the GIR _WITH THEIR +TRIBUTARY STREAMS,_ from the best Authorities. + +DRAWN BY JAMES MCQUEEN Glasgow 6th. June 1820. + +_Engraved by W. H. Lizars Edinburgh._ + +_Engraved by W. H. Lizars_ + +_Edinburgh, Published by Willm. Blackwood 1821._] + + + A + GEOGRAPHICAL AND COMMERCIAL + VIEW + OF + NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA: + CONTAINING A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT + OF THE + Course and Termination + OF THE + GREAT RIVER NIGER IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. + + * * * * * + BY JAMES M‘QUEEN. + * * * * * + + EDINBURGH: + PRINTED FOR WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH; + T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND, LONDON; AND + W. TURNBULL, GLASGOW. + * * * * * + 1821. + + + * * * * * + Printed by Balfour and Clarke, + Edinburgh, 1821. + + + + + TO + HIS GRACE + THE DUKE OF MONTROSE, + THIS WORK + IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, + BY + HIS OBLIGED, MOST OBEDIENT, AND + HUMBLE SERVANT, + JAMES M‘QUEEN. + + + + + PREFACE. + + * * * * * + + +The subsequent sheets regarding the Geography and Commerce of Northern +Central Africa, are with much deference submitted to the public. They +are the results of much labour, long research, and numerous inquiries, +carried on with a view to elucidate these important subjects. + +When Mr. Park returned from his first journey, I was resident in the +Island of Grenada (West Indies). There I had Mandingo Negroes under my +charge, who were well acquainted with the Joliba. They knew the name +perfectly from hearing me pronounce it in reading Mr. Park’s book. I +also knew a Houssa Negro, who said he rowed Mr. Park across the Niger. +These things naturally attracted my attention; and being fond of +geographical subjects, I endeavoured to collect all the accounts which I +could concerning the features of the country on the Upper Niger, as well +from Negroes as from gentlemen of my acquaintance, who had obtained +their information from similar sources. Though it was scarcely possible +to reduce these, standing by themselves, into regular order, yet, +connected with other accounts, they became satisfactory, and formed the +commencement of my labours and collections on this subject. The +narratives of every one were filled with the accounts of high mountains, +great rivers, populous countries, and large towns. By these means, my +particular attention was fixed upon this interesting subject, and my +researches have been pursued day succeeding day, ever since the period +above mentioned. Numerous authorities regarding this interesting portion +of Africa have been examined with much care, and the most striking facts +elicited from their pages. This investigation in the geographical +department, has led to the conclusion which is now submitted to the +world. It is for the public to judge how far the work has been +judiciously and accurately performed. + +It is nearly five years, since, in a small treatise, I pointed out that, +in the Bights of Benin and Biafra, the Niger certainly entered the +ocean. Various travellers, and researches made since that period, have +enabled me to delineate with greater accuracy the course of this +important river, and its numerous tributary streams through the interior +of the country. Perfect accuracy on these subjects is at present +unattainable, nor is it here pretended to. The delineation of the +general features of the country was all I had in view, and this I +flatter myself has been done with sufficient accuracy to establish all +the leading points which were contemplated. + +The Public will no doubt feel surprised when, considering the number and +magnitude of the rivers in the Bights of Benin and Biafra, that no +attempt has ever been made to penetrate by means of the chief and most +powerful of these streams into the interior of the country. Yet such is +the fact. The rivers of interior Africa were believed to be like no +other rivers. By one they were stated to run, first increasing, and then +diminishing, till the current disappeared altogether. By another, that, +flowing in opposite directions, they at last met and stood still; and by +a third, that one of the greatest rivers in the world, with all its +tributary streams, was swallowed up in a lake, or absorbed by sands. +Such were the theories formed; and no farther inquiry was considered +necessary. Thus Central Africa has for ages been buried from the eyes of +the civilized world, and in a similar manner, unworthy and erroneous +theories are at work to mislead the public, and shut up the vast +continent of New Holland. The mighty rivers lately discovered in that +Continent are also represented as terminating in a lake or swamps, +chiefly because it has been said that the Niger does so terminate. Near +600 miles of the coast of New Holland, on the south-west side, remain to +be explored. In the north-east corner of the Great Bay, which +circumscribes the south-west part of that continent, no doubt is the +outlet of all the waters of that vast country, which, flowing from every +point of the compass, converge towards that quarter, and after forming a +lake or lakes, in all probability issue therefrom, and pour a mighty +tribute into the ocean. Whoever casts his eye upon the map of the world, +must be struck with the faithful resemblance which the Great Bay, and +the south-west coast of New Holland, bear to the Gulph of Guinea and the +south-west coast of Africa. To the same point in both Continents all the +rivers converge. Another Niger and another Gir will perhaps ere long be +found out, traversing the interior of New Holland, and therefore it is +of the utmost consequence that Great Britain should get possession of +the country round the mouths of these streams, which would thus give her +the complete command of all that immense country. + +In the way to open up and establish a commercial intercourse with +Africa, there will no doubt be a diversity of opinions. On such an +important subject, involving so many interests, and such mighty +consequences, I would wish to be understood as offering my opinion with +great deference. Nevertheless, from what I have learned of Africa, and +from what I know of the Negro character, I am convinced that the plan +proposed and recommended in this work, or one formed upon a similar +basis, is that which will soonest render the trade with Africa the most +beneficial, either to Africa or to Great Britain. + +In recommending the destruction of the system of slavery in Africa, I am +not so sanguine or inconsiderate as to imagine, or to expect, that this +can or ought to be accomplished in a moment. It can only be effected in +a gradual manner; and abolition can only be beneficial by being +accomplished in this way. It must be the work of much time. There is +also too much reason to fear, that Africa can only rise to freedom and +civilization through the medium of slavery in the first instance. The +great error committed by her Princes, and all Europeans who have +hitherto held communication with Africa, is, that they withdraw the +labours of Africa to cultivate other quarters of the world, in place of +fixing its exertions to the soil which gives it birth. It is this system +which has hitherto retarded the civilization of Central Africa. Let +those then, who are slaves in Africa, or who may in future become so by +the regulations of the native powers, be employed to cultivate Africa, +and the population of that Continent will, with its improvement, +gradually rise to freedom, knowledge and civilization. There is no other +safe way to accomplish the object. + +There is one article of commerce which is particularly abundant in the +parts of Africa which have been considered, namely, rice, the particular +value of which I have omitted to mention. This article may be purchased +in the countries adjoining the Niger, at the low value of a halfpenny to +three farthings per lb. or about 90s. per cwt. Here it costs four times +the sum, and in the West Indies a still greater price. It is needless to +point out the advantages which would result from prosecuting this branch +of commerce. + +I cannot help thinking, that the accounts which we have heard of nations +in the interior of Africa devouring their prisoners is incorrect, and +arises from a want of knowledge of their customs and language. It is +well known that the Negroes believe in the power of witchcraft to such a +degree as to sink under the idea, pine away, and die. I omit numerous +instances in the West Indies where the individual inflicting, and the +individual suffering, were each equally so convinced of the fatal power, +as neither reasoning, threats, nor punishment, could remove the +impression. Thus situated, the infatuated sufferer stated that his enemy +was devouring him. From Beaver’s African Memoranda, we learn that this +practice is quite common on the western coast of Africa, and is known by +the common appellation, that such and such a person “_eats another_,” or +is “_eaten by another_.” From this may arise the reports of there being +nations in the interior, and elsewhere, who eat each other and their +prisoners. + +After these sheets were nearly all printed off, the kindness and +attention of Professor Jameson of the University of Edinburgh, put into +my hands the new work from the pen of Mr. Bowditch, regarding the +interior of Africa. From this, the important fact is obtained, that the +river which flows from the east is navigable, and navigated, at any +rate, to Lake Caudee, or Fittre, if not further; for instead of days +journeys, as related in his former work, we find that it _is sixty-five +days navigation_ from the island of Gangi, near Yaoora, to the borders +of Fittre Lake. Park navigated the Niger to Boussa, in the immediate +neighbourhood of Gangi; and we have it confirmed by the previous +authority, that the eastern river is navigable also. This confirms what +both Edrisi and Leo Africanus related concerning it. Leo Africanus also +clearly points out that there were several rivers besides the Niger, and +that all the others emptied themselves into it. The Negro kingdoms which +he enumerated and visited, were, as he distinctly states, situated +either upon “_the Niger, or other rivers which flow into it_.” That it +did not run to the Egyptian Nile, but from it, and that it was not lost +in a lake, but terminated in the ocean, Gregory of Abyssinia states most +pointedly. Flowing west from the Egyptian Nile, he says, “Descendit enim +versus regionem Elwah, et sic illabitur in _Mare Magnum_, i.e. Oceanum +Occidentalem.” + +Also, from the work just quoted, it would appear that the river from the +east joins the Niger about and below Yaoora. In the itinerary of +Brahima, the route from Yahndi and Gamba, to the Niger, is given. The +last place on that route is Schal. “Here,” says Brahima, “is the river +which is named Coudha, _on the extremity of which is the great kingdom +of Your,” (Yaoora.)_ If this relation is correct, then it would appear +that the Great Eastern River is that which is called Coudha, Kaoda, or +Quolla, and that it flows into the Niger to the south of Yaoora, forming +the boundary of this state on that quarter. It is by no means improbable +that this is really the case. With one remark I shall conclude my +observations on these subjects. It appears, from all geographical +authorities in early times, that nearly all the great rivers in the +different continents were uniformly laid down as flowing from the same +source, or as being joined together in some part of their course. This +is the case with the great rivers in the Eastern World, in Africa, and +lastly in America, where the Rio de La Plata and the Great Maranon are +represented as uniting, and then separating from each other, and then +flowing in nearly opposite directions. Perpetuating such erroneous +ideas, has led into the confusion which has long reigned in the +geography of Africa. + +In speaking of the magnitude of African cities and states, it must +always be borne in mind that these are considered chiefly according to +the accounts derived from the authority of Arab, Moor, and Negro +travellers, whose comparisons, again, are drawn from what they saw or +heard of in Africa. These accounts must not be taken as applied to, or +compared with, European Kingdoms and States. Several cities in Africa, +however, are certainly populous, and the number of this description is +undoubtedly also very considerable. + +In the numerous authorities to which I have referred, and which I have +quoted, I have uniformly given their exact words, that my readers may be +enabled to judge for themselves concerning the truth of what I advance. +In the style and composition of the work, I have to claim the indulgence +of the public. Avocations of a different kind necessarily engage my +time; and my distance from Edinburgh, where the work was printed, has, +in a few instances, led into errors, which, however, are either very +obvious, or not very material. + +The interest which is now excited about every thing connected with +Africa, must soon lead to measures by some European power, such as will +clearly and accurately develope every part of the interior of that long- +neglected and very remarkable country. I hope that this honour, and the +immense advantages to be derived therefrom, both political and +commercial, are reserved for Great Britain. + +It is only necessary further to add, that the substance of the following +work, in what regards both the geography and the trade, were embodied +into separate memorials, and with a map of Northern Africa, (which has +been reduced and engraved for this work) upon a large scale, submitted +to his Majesty’s Government _in the latter end of June last year_. +Especially these were laid before the noble Lords at the Head of the +Admiralty and the Colonial Department, the Right Honourable the +President and Vice-President of the Board of Trade, and other +distinguished members of the Executive Government. To his Grace the Duke +of Montrose I feel particularly indebted for the interest he took in the +furtherance of a plan which, if prosecuted, would be attended with +incalculable advantages to the West of Scotland, and to Glasgow in +particular. + + GLASGOW, _March_ 22, 1821. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + + + GEOGRAPHY OF NORTHERN AFRICA. + + CHAP. I. + + Page + + Ancient Geography of Central Africa — General Observations — + Accounts of the Interior by Ptolemy, Edrisi, Ibn-al-Vardi, + Scheabeddin, Mackrisi, Batouta, Abulfeda, Ebn Haukal, Leo + Africanus — Termination of the Niger, &c. 1 + + CHAP. II. + + Joliba, two branches, source western, ditto eastern — River + Zamma; course till junction — Snowy mountains — Balia — Lake + Clonia — River Guinola — Kaniaba — Bammakoo — Magnitude of Niger + — Rapids — Marraboo — Yamina — Sego — Jennë — Ba Nimma — Ba + Maniana — Lake Dibbie — River Gozen Zair — High Mountains — + Walet — Course of Niger, north-east — Ba Moriaca — Jinbala — + Rakbara — Kabra — Timbuctoo — Bahar-el-Ahmar — Course of ditto — + Houssa — Magnitude of Niger at Timbuctoo — Sidi Hamed — Course + of river south-east — Mountains — Kaffo — Rocks — River bursts + through a chain of mountains — Exceeding high ridge to + south-west — Cabi, a Ferry — Yaoora — Great River from east may + join here — Boussa — Park’s death — Cause of it — Wauwa — Gange + — Nyffe — Wassanah — Magnitude of Wassanah — Magnitude of Niger + or Zadi — Course to “Great Water” — Junction with the Sea, and + where — General Observations 59 + + CHAP. III. + + Eastern rivers — Misselad or Gir, source and course — Dar Saley + — Wara — Other rivers — Gir turns west — Lake Fittre — Magnitude + of River; junction with the Shary — Bahr-el-Feydh — Bahr Djad — + Course of Gir west — Gambarou — Birney — Bornou — River Tzad — + Face of the country — Cano or Ghana — Kashna — Gulbe, supposed + course of ditto — Position of Kashna — Junction of eastern and + western rivers — Vancara or Owencara; what it is — Bito — Temian + — Cannibals — Junction of Gir and Bahr Kulla, source and course + of ditto — Mount Thala — Miri — Junchor and Bahr Salamat Rivers + — Lake Haimat — Island at the junction of Gir and Niger — Lybia + Palus — Lake of Jackson, or sea of Sudan; what that is — + Robertson — River Loro — Fillanee — Water communication between + the sea-coast and north-east parts of Africa — Course of the + Niger to the sea in the Bights of Benin and Biafra — Boundary of + Benin — Bahr Kulha; what it is 93 + + CHAP. IV. + + Bights of Benin and Biafra — Rio de Formosa — Delta of Benin — + Innumerable Rivers — Rio Forcados — Gatto Creek — Cape Formosa — + Rivers East — New Calabar and Bonny River; their great magnitude + — Old Calabar and Cross Rivers — Rio Elrei — Salt Ground — Great + Trade in Salt — Face of the Country in the Delta — Trade to + these Places — Inundation of the Rivers — Time of ditto — Shews + they are different from either the Congo or the Egyptian Nile — + Currents in the Sea near the Coast — Number and Magnitude of the + Rivers in the Delta — Breadth — Depth — Trade — Natives into the + Interior — A Race of People almost White — Leucæ Ethiopians of + Ptolemy — General Observations on the N.E. and North parts of + Central Africa — Accounts of Travellers — Kong — What it means — + Great Magnitude of the Niger, and his Tributary Streams — Length + of Course — Compared to Magnitude of Bahr-el-Abiad at Shilluk — + Cannot be the same Stream — No Connection with that River 128 + + CHAP. V. + + Country south of the Elrei — High land of Cameroons — An extinct + Volcano — Chariot of the Gods — Old Cameroons — Jamoor and + Malemba Rivers — Moöhnda, or Danger River — Gaboon River — + Nazareth, Liverpool, Bristol, and Tawney Rivers — Congo River — + Rivers West of the Rio de Formosa — Rio Lagos — Mory River — + Country around it — Rio Volta — Boosempra, Ancobra, and Assinee + Rivers — Mesurada River — Sierra Leone — Way to explore Africa — + Distances of Places, how ascertained — How to command Africa — + Fernando Po, a sure stronghold — Sierra Leone, a secondary place + — A settlement inland of the greatest importance — Extent of + country it would command — French settlement in Africa — Wish to + extend their power in that quarter — Rivers, their great use in + the Torrid Zone — East coast of Africa, important for Commerce — + Rivers Zambezi and Zebee — Island of Socotora — Situation of + Africa — Slavery — The Slave Trade — Extent thereof — Slavery + and Superstition — Scourges of Africa — How to benefit Africa — + Colonization — Advantage of Colonies — The chief strength of + Britain — Eagerly coveted by France — Our efforts in Central + Africa would civilize all Northern Africa — Must expect to meet + difficulties — Perseverance will ensure success 156 + + TRADE AND COMMERCE OF NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA. + + Colonies necessary to Great Britain — France anxious to colonize + Africa — New markets can alone relieve our trade — Old + overstocked — Africa the best field — Superior productions — + Country near the Niger — Powerful, populous, cultivated, and + commercial states — Large cities — Numerous valuable productions + — Africa long neglected — Formerly enriched other countries — + Articles of export and import — Particular enumeration and value + of those most in demand — Salt — Ostrich feathers — Spices — + Precious stones — Gums — Drugs — Dye-stuffs — Gold dust — Ivory + — Gunpowder, Fire-arms, &c. — Value of articles — Great profits + on trade — Immense advantages of a water conveyance — Hardships + attending the trade at present — Value of articles at the Gold + coast and the interior — Extent and value of the trade at + present — Would supply our West India Colonies with provisions — + Obtain plenty of fine cotton — Would open up a trade to the Cape + of Good Hope and India — Abolition of the slave trade would + relieve and cultivate Africa — If not checked, our West India + colonies must be ruined — Infringe the rights of no civilized + nation in colonizing Africa — Three modes of establishing the + trade — A chartered company the best — Regulations under which + to be formed — Government must countenance and support such an + undertaking — Plans to be adopted and pursued — General + reflections on the climate of Africa, and the importance of the + contemplated undertaking 211 + + + + + ERRATA. + + + Page 8. 3d line from bottom, _for_ Girgires, _read_ Girgiris. + + 27. 10th do. — itineries, — itineraries + + 28. 3d line from top, — Canal — Canoe + + 33. 2d line from bottom, — Cetenum — Ceterum + + 57. 3d line from top, — comes — come + + 85. 3d line from bottom, — _Kabee_ — _Kabeer_ + + 105. 3d do. — bar — bark + + 123. 15th line from top, — West — East + + — 3d line from bottom, — occurrence — occurrence + of which, which + + 138. do. — turnings — burnings + + 177. 2d line from top, — outlet — outlets + + + + + GEOGRAPHY + OF + NORTHERN AFRICA. + + * * * * * + + CHAP. I. + +_Ancient Geography of Central Africa — General Observations — Accounts +of the Interior by Ptolemy, Edrisi, Ebn-al-Fardi, Sheabiddin, Mackrisi, +Batouta, Abulfeda, Ebn Haukal, Leo Africanus — Termination of the Niger, +&c._ + + +The central parts of Africa, and, in a very particular manner, the +interior parts of the northern division of that great continent, +together with the course and termination of the great river Niger, are +still in a great measure unknown. Become the eager object of European +research, these cannot much longer remain hid. It is surprising they +have remained undiscovered so long. To explore and determine accurately +these important points, is the most interesting geographical problem +that now remains to be solved. + +Unworthy and erroneous theories, and to which all information hitherto +received has been forced to bend, have long led astray the public mind, +and general exertions of Europe, from the true path by which the +interior of Northern Africa can be explored, and the only way by which +the course and termination of the Niger can be ascertained. The road, +however, is easy, and quite accessible. Nature has formed it. The Niger, +and his tributary streams, pursue their course through Central Africa. +From the west, and from the east, they converge to one point. After +uniting in one channel, the mighty current divides itself into several +streams, which enter the Atlantic ocean by navigable estuaries in the +Bights of Benin and Biafra. + +Allowing we had no positive information of the course and magnitude of +the Niger lower down than Bammakoo, Sego, and Lake Dibbie, still the +fact of there being such a river continuing its course eastward from the +latter place, is sufficient to induce us to look for its exit on the sea +coast. We are quite certain that it does not enter the sea to the north; +and we may say we are equally sure that it does not finish its course in +any sea to the east. To the south, therefore, we must turn our +inquiries. In no part of Western or Southern Africa is there stronger +grounds to look for this estuary, than in the coast below Benin. There +the soil is all alluvial. For a great distance into the interior, stones +larger than a man’s fist are unknown. The country is flat, and inundated +during the swell of the rivers from the tropical rains. The land is +daily gaining on the sea from the quantity of alluvial matter brought +down from the interior. The whole country and coast, for a great extent, +is intersected with arms and outlets of rivers, communicating with each +other inland. The bottom of the sea, along a great extent of coast, is +all soft mud. From the Rio Lagos to the Rio Elrei river, no fewer than +twenty streams enter the ocean, several of them of surprising magnitude, +and navigable for ships. Large floating islands are borne down by their +waves, and carried into the ocean. The great magnitude of these rivers +will by and bye come more particularly under our review. + +As the easterly course of the Upper Niger is now no longer a matter of +dispute, it would be perfectly superfluous to bring forward, in detail, +the authority of writers and geographers, from the days of Herodotus +downwards to this day, to prove this important fact. Its termination is +now the subject which engages the attention of all. The theories at +present most in vogue, are, _first_, that it flows eastward, reaching +beyond the parallel of 18° North Lat. and then, in about 20° East Long. +flows south-east, and is the parent stream of the Bahr-el-Abiad, or Nile +of Egypt; _second_, that it terminates in a large lake in the interior, +which also receives the waters of the Gir, or Nile of Soudan, coming +from the eastward; _third_, that the waters of both rivers are lost in, +and absorbed by swamps and sandy deserts, in a country called Wangara; +and _fourth_, that the Niger from his middle course flows south, and +joins the great River Congo, or Zaire. + +Every one of these theories is grossly erroneous, contrary to every +authority on which reliance can be placed, and in opposition to every +feature of geography exhibited any where else on this globe. The +expedition to the Congo, so lately undertaken, and so unfortunate, has +nevertheless settled the question, that the Congo and Niger are +different streams. The lake said to receive and retain the waters of the +Gir and the Niger, can no where be heard of, either as a sea of salt or +fresh water, in the interior of Africa. Wangara, said to absorb these +rivers in swamps and sands, or rather those parts of Africa where +Wangara is said to lie, is, as the name signifies, a country of a +different description—a country intersected by many powerful rivers, +mountainous, fertile and cultivated, and inundated during the rains. +That the Niger flows to form the Bahr-el-Abiad, is contrary to all +probability, contrary to the good authority of Ptolemy, contrary to the +authority of the best Arabian geographers, and contrary to excellent +modern authority. Yet it is most surprising that an opinion, so +improbable in itself, and so directly opposite to all the authorities +mentioned, should even to this day continue to be believed and +maintained. + +In following out this subject, and establishing by conclusive evidence, +the fact which I have advanced, it may not be unnecessary to consider +the general outline of the Roman and Arabian geography of this portion +of Africa, to which our attention is directed, before we consider +authorities of more recent dates. The coincidence will thus be more +apparent, and the fact more obvious. In the geography of Ptolemy we are +not to look for the accuracy of modern details. Nevertheless, his +general features of Northern Africa are worthy of attention. In his +days, it is obvious, from his enumeration of mountains, rivers, and +nations, that it must have been much better known than it now is; and, +therefore, we must the more regret that he did not then possess the +means which we now possess of fixing the positions of the places he +mentions with geographical accuracy. On this part of the subject, +however, it is not my intention to enter at great length, but merely to +select the undisputed and clearer parts which tend so strongly to +confirm the accounts of modern travellers concerning the course and +termination of the great and important streams already mentioned. + +The most ancient Greek and Roman authors seem to have been very +imperfectly acquainted with the great Zahaara, or the countries beyond +it. Ptolemy himself seems altogether to overlook the desert, though he +minutely enumerates the countries beyond it. Strabo and Pliny conceived +that the streams which descended from the south-east side of Mount Atlas +formed the Niger, and which river was in these days believed to be one +with the Egyptian Nile. They stated that the streams descending from +Mount Atlas hid themselves, or rather run under the desert for a space +occupying 24 days journey, when, emerging, they continued their course +to the eastward, united in the Niger. This desert they describe as being +composed of _black dust_. Modern travellers all describe it as scorching +sands. Whether any alteration has taken place on it during the lapse of +so many ages, cannot be determined; but it is by no means improbable +that its extent is considerably increased, from the sands gaining on the +cultivated ground, as is well known to be the case on the side towards +Egypt. It is a curious fact, that, approaching the middle thereof, +reckoning from the Atlantic Ocean, abundance of water is found upon +digging some feet below the surface, and which the Arabs term, “_the sea +under ground_.” This remarkable circumstance might suggest to Strabo and +Pliny the idea already mentioned of the rivers from Mount Atlas running +under ground. + +Ptolemy wrote on Egypt in the second century of the Christian era. Then +Africa was better known. The interior of the northern division thereof +he describes apparently from good authority, and with considerable +accuracy, only he seems altogether to leave out the Great Desert. Mount +Mandrus, the middle of which was in 23° East Long. from Ferro, and 22° +North Lat., and Rhisadirus Mountain more to the south, he places as the +barrier which divides the waters which flow westward into the Atlantic +Ocean, by the rivers Stachirus, &c. (the Senegal, Gambia, &c.) from +those which flow eastward in the Niger. Turning eastward from Rhisadirus +Mountain, we find Mount Caphas in about 10° North Lat. which divides the +waters which flow south into the _great gulf_, or Gulf of Guinea, and +those which flow north to join the Niger. In Caphas, we readily +recognize the Kong range. Eastward, in the same parallel, there is a +blank or opening, and then comes Mount Thala, situated in 10° North Lat. +and 38° East Long. from Ferro. + +Before proceeding further, it is necessary to correct an obvious error +in the longitude, as reckoned by Ptolemy. He places Alexandria in 60° +30′ East Long. from Ferro, or 42° 29′ from Greenwich. This we know is +12° too much, Alexandria being in 30° East Long. from Greenwich, or 48° +from Ferro. It is evident, therefore, that we must deduct one-fifth +(decreasing this deduction in proportion as we go west) from the +longitude, as laid down by Ptolemy, in order to correct his reckoning. +By doing this, we shall see how accurately the positions of some places +agree with modern accounts. + +South of Mount Thala, in 3° North Lat. and 33° East Long. we have Mount +Arualtes, and eastward of that in North Lat. 1° 30′, and East Long. 47°, +we have Mount Arangas. Turning north in 10° North Lat., and 50° East +Long. we have the chain of hills called the Garamantican rampart, which +divides the waters which flow west in the Gir, from those deserts which +stretch eastward to the Nile. Turning westward, in the parallel of 21° +North Lat. and extending along by the sources of the river Cinips, from +40° to 45° East Long. we have Mount Girgiris, and from 8° to 10° farther +west, in the same parallel of Lat. are the Usargala mountains. Next, in +North Lat. 32°[1], and East Long. 20° 30′, we have Mount Sagapola, +placed most erroneously in the map accompanying the work, in 20° North +Lat. and 15° East Long., in the south side, in place of the north side +of the desert. + +The formidable barriers here enumerated, according to the delineation of +Ptolemy, encircle or enclose those extensive valleys, if I may use the +expression, through which the Niger, the Gir, and their tributary +streams, take their course, leaving only the opening between Mount Thala +and Mount Caphas, for the collected flood to escape to the southward. +How much these general outlines agree with modern accounts, our future +investigations, and the map accompanying this work, will shew. + +It is in this portion of Africa that the greatest rivers flow, greater, +as Ptolemy must mean, than any other which flowed in the northern +division of that continent. In the middle of the country, says he, the +greatest rivers display themselves, viz. the Gir, joining together the +Usargala mountain and the Garamantican barrier or rampart. One branch of +this river makes the Lake Chelonides, in 20° North Lat. and 49° East +Long. (21° East Long. from Greenwich,) and another the Lake Nuba in +North Lat. 15° and East Long. 50°, or 22° from Greenwich, answering very +accurately with the Lake Fittre of modern authors. The course of the Gir +westward, Ptolemy distinctly marks, by enumerating the cities on its +northern bank, from Lynxana, in 20° 30′ North Lat. and 48° 30′ East +Long., unto Thycimath, situate in 19° 45′ North Lat. and 38° East Long. +Still more westward, he places his Gira metropolis in North Lat. 18° and +36° East Long. or 12° East from Greenwich. + +Next is the Niger river, running east, and joining both Mount Mandrus +and Mount Thala, that is all the waters which are collected in the vale +between these mountains flow to form the Niger. The course east he +distinctly marks, by marking first the Lake Nigrites, and then the +cities on both the northern and southern banks, viz. on the north from +Pessidy, situate in 18° North Lat. and 19° East Long. to Panagra, in 16° +45′ North Lat. and 31° East Long. On the south bank from Thuspu, +situated in 17° 45′ North Lat. and 26° 30′ East Long. unto Dudum in 15° +North Lat. and 31° East Long. or about 6° east of Greenwich. At this +point the river is evidently declining south considerably, and a space +of 5° of longitude, by Ptolemy’s reckoning, intervenes between this part +of the Niger and the Gira metropolis, the last point mentioned on the +Gir river. + +The Niger, we are informed, makes the Lake Nigrites in 15° East Long.[2] +and 18° North Lat. This is evidently the Lake Dibbie. The Nigira +metropolis is placed on the map at the junction of a river coming from +the north-east, and in 17° 45′ North Lat. and 25° 20′ East Long. which +is about 3° east of Greenwich, answering in longitude very nearly indeed +with the position of Timbuctoo. On the north side the Niger receives two +branches, viz. one from the Sagapola mountain, and another from the +Usargala mountain, which latter is probably that branch which joins at +the Nigira metropolis. That from the Sagapola mountain is evidently a +mistake, providing that mountain is correctly laid down; but a branch +springing south of the desert, and coming from that direction, does +perhaps join the Niger. Ptolemy, in his account of the Sagapola +mountain, seems to take no notice of the Great Desert, that mountain +being placed to the north of it. The Upper Niger he clearly brings from +the north-west. + +On the south the Niger receives one branch _nigh to_ two places, viz. +17° North Lat. and 21° East Long. and also 13° 30′ North Lat. and 21° +East Long. The accuracy of this we shall by and by have occasion to +notice more particularly. Towards the Rising Sun it also receives one +branch above the Lybian Lake, which lake is placed in 16° 30′ North +Lat., and 35° East Long., or about 12° east of Greenwich. This branch, +no doubt, comes from the eastern part of, or from the country eastward +of Mount Thala. Ptolemy seems to indicate, when he says, above the +Lybian Lake, that this branch joined the Niger after the latter had +issued from the lake. Yet his exact meaning is not easily ascertained. +The point, however, is of considerable importance; for, if to the +westward of the lake, no stream coming from the east could join the +Niger but the Gir. Be this as it may, it is obvious that he means that +this branch from the eastward and this lake communicated with the Niger. +Whoever considers for a moment, must see that it could not fail also to +have a communication with, or rather that it must receive the waters of +the Gir. The latter stream, in its westerly course, is distinctly traced +to 18° North Lat. and 36° East Long., while the Lybian Lake is placed in +16° 30′ North Lat. and 35° East Long., only about 100 miles S.W. from +the Gira metropolis. This is curious and important. + +The Niger from this point continues a southerly course, otherwise it +could not join Mount Thala, the middle of which is in 10° North Lat. and +38° East Long., or 13° 40′ east of Greenwich. Further, we have in +Ptolemy no accurate accounts of the course of this river. But that it +flows south and joins the ocean, he certainly meant, when he says, that +Lybia, wherein he had described the courses of the rivers mentioned, was +bounded on the south by that part of Ethiopia Interior called Agisymba; +and concerning these African rivers, he says, “Illorum vero qui _per +interiorem Æthiopam_ fluant, quique _fontes et ostia_ in continente +habent maximi sunt Gir et Niger.” (Lib. ii. E. 1. de maximis +fluminibus.) In this the southern course is very plainly marked, and +also their termination in the ocean. + +With one observation I shall conclude this part of the subject. In Mount +Girgiris, situate, as has been already mentioned, Ptolemy states that +the river Cinips has its source in two places, viz. in the parallel of +21° North Lat. and in 40° and 45° East Long. This river flows north, and +enters the Mediterranean between the greater and the lesser Syrtes, in +42° 15′ East Long., or to the eastward of modern Tripoli. No such river +we certainly know flows through this part of Africa. It is therefore +probable that the springs in Mount Girgiris flowed, joined, and formed a +river running in a different direction. The river Cinyphus, which enters +the Mediterranean, is certainly one of those streams which rise north of +the desert, and have very short courses indeed, compared to what the +Cinips would have, if it flowed from Lat. 21° North, a course of nearly +800 miles. The river springing in Mount Girgiris certainly takes a +different direction, and doing this, it will correspond with the +accounts of the direction of the rivers in that part of Africa, as these +are described by modern travellers. + +After Ptolemy, the early Arabian authors and geographers demand our +attention. From their careless and obscure manner of writing on these +subjects, it is impossible to reconcile all their statements. +Sufficient, however, remains to shew us our way. According to Leo, the +ancient Arabian chroniclers, viz. Bukri and Mishuudi, knew nothing in +the land of the Negroes till the year of the Hegira 380 (A.D. 1002,) +except Alguechet and Cano. These discoveries were evidently made from +Egypt, as Alguechet is an Oasis in the desert 120 Arabian miles distant +from Egypt, and seems to have been the first stage in the road to +western discovery. At the period last-mentioned, however, the Arabs from +Barbary passed the great desert, and all the countries to the south +thereof were quickly explored and conquered. Those formidable deserts, +which formed a rampart against the advance of the most powerful nations +of antiquity, were, to the roving Arab, strengthened by enthusiasm, and +fortified by predestination, no barriers whatever. Innumerable swarms +soon found their way to the southward, and planted, amidst powerful +colonies, the standard and religion of their prophet on the banks of the +Niger. They penetrated through the centre of the country, from sea to +sea, from the Mediterranean to the Gulf of Guinea. When the Portuguese +first discovered the latter part of the coast of Africa, they found the +population every where mixed with Arabs. The western parts of the +continent, however, namely, the countries along the north and south of +the Senegal, were less known to them to much later periods. These seem +to have been the refuge of the ancient inhabitants of Morocco, &c. who, +driven from their ancient abodes by the disciples of Mahommed, sought +refuge across the desert, and, being a more intelligent and hardy race +than the Negroes, were thus for a longer period enabled to repel the +attacks of their restless enemies. + +The central and southern parts of Northern Africa became thus well known +to the Arabian writers, either from observation or report. In some +parts, however, they contracted, and in others extended, the continent +beyond its proper limits. “The ambient sea,” (Bahar Addolum, Sea of +darkness, or Atlantic Ocean,) says Abulfeda, “extends itself from +Mauritania until it has passed the desert of Lemptuna, (Great Desert,) a +vast wilderness of barbarians, to the country of the Nigritæ. Thence it +stretches yet farther southwards, till it has _passed beyond the +Equator_, after which it extends to the east, _behind the mountains of +El Komri_, from whence the Nile of Egypt has its source. Again, it +proceeds southward,” &c. Leo Africanus states, that the “south part of +Africa abutteth upon the Ocean Sea, which compasseth it almost as far as +the deserts of Gaoga.” These deserts of Gaoga, according to the same +authority, lie to the south and the south-west of the kingdom of Gaoga, +which kingdom extended on the west bank of the Nile from the confines of +Egypt, southward 500 Arabian miles, to the great bend of the Nile, about +Dongola. This, with the account from Abulfeda, shews how much the early +Arabian writers were deceived regarding the true position of the Gulf of +Guinea, and how far eastward they conceived that it pierced into the +African continent. + +Belad-el-Soudan, was the general term applied to those parts of Africa +inhabited by Negroes, south of the Great Zahaara, and west of the +deserts of Nubia. “Belad-el-Soudan,” says Bakui, who flourished about +the year 1400, “or the Country of the Blacks, extendeth on the north to +that of the Berbers, on the south to deserts, on the east to Ethiopia, +and on the west to the ocean sea. It is burned by a perpendicular sun. +The inhabitants are naked, part Mussulmen, and part Infidels.” Speaking +of that portion of Africa which abounds with mines of the “most pure +gold,” Ebn Haukal says, “this land of the Blacks is a very extensive +region. Their skin is of a finer and deeper black than any other blacks, +whether Habeshis, (Abyssinians,) or Zingians, (Ethiopians;) and their +country is more extensive than that of any other nation of blacks. _It +is situated on the coasts of the ocean to the south_.” This distinctly +points out the northern shore of the Gulf of Guinea. Ebn Haukal was the +most accurate of all the Arabian geographers, and is with great reason +supposed to have visited every country which he describes. Regarding the +boundary south, Bakui seems not to have been so well-informed, when he +says, it is “by deserts” on that quarter. But he evidently carries his +Belad-el-Sudan no farther south than the mighty chain of Kong and the +chain in the same parallel of latitude, stretching eastward to El Komri. +By the word deserts, we are to understand not only sandy deserts, like +the great Zahaara, but likewise mountainous, rugged, and woody countries +less civilized, cultivated, and inhabited than others. Leo Africanus +enables us to clear up this point. He states, that the kingdom of Melli +is bounded south by “certain deserts and dry mountains,” which are +without doubt the bleak mountains in the Kong chain. But still more +expressly, and to the point, he states, that “the land of the negroes +lies between the Lybian Desert (Zahaara) and a _desert_ to the south, +which stretcheth to the main ocean.” But that it is not barren sands is +evident, for he adds, “_in the desert are infinite_ nations (except by +report) unknown to us.” The country south of Guangara, the same +authority informs us, is of a similar description. Hence the authority +of Leo and Bakui is reconciled, and the meaning of their respective +descriptions, and others of a similar nature, given by other Arabian +writers, are, by this elucidation rendered clear and plain. + +Belad-el-Sudan, or the country of the blacks, is, by Arabian authors, +divided into several large portions, each of which contains a number of +kingdoms and states. The larger divisions which are more immediately +connected with our present investigation, are the land of Gaoga, the +land of Kanem, Ghana, Maly, Meczarat-al-Sudan, Lamlem, and Belad-el- +Tibri. The four first occupied the whole country south of the Great +Desert, and the deserts of Lybia, extending through central Africa, from +the Egyptian Nile to the sources of the Senegal. The three latter +divisions, or portions, lie to the south of the former. + +Gaoga does not properly belong to the land of the negroes, which, in +fact, commences from the western borders of the former. Gaoga, 300 years +ago, comprehended all that country from the confines of Egypt to the +desert south of Dongola, and from the Nile to the limits of the great +empire of Bornou. In the latter direction, according to Leo, it is about +500 miles in breadth. The country is in general barren, and full of +burning deserts. + +The land of Kanem. This was formerly a mighty and important country, +though now merged in the great empire of Bornou, and parcelled out into +smaller states, such as Bagherme, &c. “On the borders of the Nile,” says +the Egyptian historian Macrisi, “lies also the land of Kanem; the king +of which is a Mahommedan. _It is at a great distance from the land of +Maly_. The capital is Heymy. The first town on the side towards Egypt +(that is on the caravan route) is Zeilah, and the last, reckoning +lengthways, is called Kaka, about three months journey from the other. +The people go veiled. Their king remains behind a curtain when he speaks +to any one. Except on two mornings each year, at the time of Asseer, no +one sees him. Their main food is rice. It grows without culture. They +have wheat, Indian corn, (dhoura,) figs, lemons, and other fruits. Their +currency is cotton-stuffs, called Dandy, and cowries. Gourds grow to a +great size. They make ships (perhaps rafts) of them, upon which they +cross the Nile. To the south of them are forests and deserts inhabited +by wild creatures, like demons, approaching to the figure of a man, whom +a horseman cannot overtake, and which hurt people. In the night there +appears something like fire; it shines, and when any one goes towards +it, it retires to a distance from him, so that if he should even run, he +never can come up with it, but it always keeps before him, and if he +throws a stone at it, and hits it, sparks fly from it. These countries +lie between Barca and Mogreb (a general name for Southern Africa) and +extend to the south as far as the middle Gharb. Their religion is of the +sect of Imam Malek Ibn Anes.”— (Burkhardt.) + +The manners, customs, and produce of the country, are much the same as +are now found in Bornou, at that time a province of Kanem. The wild +creatures like demons are no doubt the African ourang-outang and ape, +which abound in the forests of Southern Africa, particularly towards Dar +Kulla and countries south of Bornou, which places, from the great extent +of the land of Kanem, it evidently reached. That they hurt, and even +attack people, particularly women, we learn from various authorities. +Mollien, page 286, says, “it is dangerous to meet the African ourang- +outang, particularly if a person be unarmed;” and in pages 290 and 291, +he relates an account of an assault made upon a woman by a number of +apes, who beat her most severely, and afterwards fought a desperate +battle with the principal inhabitants of a village near Galam, who went +on horseback to attack these animals. The fire that appeared at night +was most probably the fire fly, so numerous near rivers and forests in +the torrid zone, and which perhaps formed those “_fiery rivers_” which +astonished Hanno, the Carthaginian navigator and his followers. + +From the description here given by Macrisi, it is plain that the Nile +(the Gir,) or some, if not all its large branches, passed through this +land of Kanem. Ibn-al-Vardi confirms the account of Macrisi. The former +states that “Konem, or Kanem, is a large country, situated along the +Nile,” and, what is still more to the point, he says, “the inhabitants +were all Mussulmen _of the sect of Imam Malek_.” Cities fall and empires +disappear, but the sects, tribes, and religion of the Arabs survive the +roll of ages, and form our sure guides. Edrisi also states Kanem as a +large district, and adds, that some negroes stated that Kaugha was +subject to it. Kanem, though humbled, is still known. According to +Burkhardt, “it is a large district, inhabited by the tribes of Tendjear, +and Beni Wayl,” (p. 479.) It is situated east of Bornou, and near the +river Sharee, and Bahr el Gazalle. Sheeref Imhammed places Kanem north +of Bornou in the road to Mourzook, but Burkhardt is perhaps the best +authority. + +Ghana, and the countries once subject to it, was, during the days of its +vigour, the richest and most important kingdom which the Arabs ruled in +interior Africa. It lay to the west of Kanem, and was situated upon the +Nile. It was perhaps what is now known under the name of Cano. Vancara, +Cassina, and many other surrounding kingdoms, obeyed the authority of +Ghana, whose sovereign was exceedingly rich and powerful. The +inhabitants had long boats on the Nile, with which they fished and +carried on communication with other cities. In its largest sense, the +land of Ghana must have been of great extent. Ghana, according to +Edrisi, was bounded on the north by the _broadest_ desert, lying out +between the countries of the blacks and Barbary. According to Ibn-al- +Vardi, it was bounded on the south by Meghrara, or Meczara. It was +through the negroes country of Meczara that the Nile of the negroes, +according to Edrisi, ran in its progress to the sea near the Isle of +Ulil. Meczara El-Sudan, in all probability, was a general term applied +by the Arabs to all the countries lying to the south of their first +established kingdoms in Africa. They seem, in their progress of +colonization, to have proceeded first westward down the Gir, and then to +have been met by fresh colonies; which colonies descending from Barbary, +urged their progress eastward and along the Niger, till they met their +countrymen on the Gir. + +The Pagan country of Lamlem lay to the southward and westward of the +kingdom of Ghana. “The countries and dominions of Lamlem,” says Edrisi, +“lay near a certain river flowing into the Nile. It is not known whether +there is any inhabited place to the southward, (rather S.W.) of Lamlem, +it being bounded on that side by a “Desert.” Thus indicating that it is +bounded on the southward and westward by a mountainous and woody +country. According to Ibn-al-Vardi, Lamlem is an inland city, “where +gold is found.” This would lead us to look for it between the Niger and +the Kong Mountains. Edrisi, however, has left us a more particular mark +by which we can ascertain the true position of this country, which was +invaded by all its Mahommedan neighbours, and its population carried off +to be made slaves. “When any of all the inhabitants of Lamlem,” says +Edrisi, “come to have the use of their reason, he is burnt in the face +and temples; this they do to distinguish each other.” Now, according to +Bowditch, this is the practice of the people of Dagwumba, (famous for +the abundance of gold,) Yahndi and Moosee, countries S.W. of the Niger, +and in the immediate vicinity of the Kong Mountains, “where gold is +found.” “The people of Dagwumba,” says he, “have three slight cuts on +each cheek bone, and three below, with one horizontal under the eye. +Those of Yahndi, three deep indented cuts. The people of Moosee, three +very deep and long, and one under the eye.” (Bowditch, p. 183.) These +are unchangeable features, and cannot mislead us. In all other parts of +Africa, the people are marked on their bodies. Lamlem, therefore, lay S. +and S.W. of the Niger, towards Kong, and was near a river which flowed +into the Niger, or the Nile of these Arabian geographers. + +Belad-el-Tibri, or the country of pure gold, seems a general name +applied to all that part of Africa, south of the Upper Niger, towards +the mountainous country of Kong, where gold is so abundant. “Belad-el- +Tibri, _or the country of pure gold_,” says Bakui, “is part of the +Sudans or the Blacks in the south of Africa. From Segelmessa (south of +Mount Atlas,) to this country, they reckon three months journey. Here +you see gold come out of the sand, as elsewhere plants out of the +earth.” This is sufficient to enable us to ascertain what is meant by +“Belad-el-Tibri,” and also where that country is. The Empire of Ghana, +Bakui also informs us, was situate near this rich and evidently +extensive district. + +The land of Maly, which, according to Macrisi, is at “_a very great +distance_” from the land of Kanem, next demands our attention. The +celebrated Arabian traveller, Batouta, enables us to fix the position of +this important country. This man was perhaps the greatest land traveller +that ever lived. He had visited every country from China to Spain, and +traversed nearly all northern Africa. An abridgment of his important +travels was found by Burckhardt in Egypt. The work is become very +scarce. Batouta was a native of Tangier. From Segelmessa, he set out +with the slave caravan for Sudan, in the year of the Hegira 753, (A.D. +1375.) In 45 days they crossed the Desert, and reached the first town in +Sudan, called Abou Laten, or Eiswalaten, perhaps Walet. From Abou Laten, +he travelled to Maly, through a country abounding with large trees, in +the hollow of one of which he saw a weaver at work on his loom. Ten days +brought them to Zaghary, an extensive place inhabited by negro traders, +and some white people of the heretic creed of Byadha, supposed to be +Christians or Jews. Leaving Zaghary, but without mentioning the +distance, or the bearing travelled, he came to the Nile (Niger,) at a +village named Karsendjour or Kosegarten. + +“From Karsendjour,” says Batouta, “the Nile flows down to Kabera, and +from thence to Zagha, the inhabitants of which are Moslems of old, and +strong in the faith.” In this we readily recognize Sego, whose people +are to this day very rigid Mahommedans. “From Zagha,” continues Batouta, +“the Nile flows down to Timbuctoo, _then to Kuku_, to Mouly, the last +place in the country of Maly, to Bowy, (Query, can this be the same as +Boussa?) which is one of the largest cities in Sudan, and the Sultan one +of the most powerful in that country. No white man enters it, for he +would be killed before his arrival.” From Karsendjour, the traveller +“proceeded to the river called Sansera, about ten miles from Maly, and +then entered Maly, where he remained two months, and received presents +from Sultan Mousey Solyman, an avaricious but very just king. The women +in this country never cover their nakedness till after marriage.” + +From the mutability of names in Africa, it is impossible for us to fix +precisely the spot where Batouta first reached the Niger. The time he +took to travel from Segelmessa across the Desert, agrees very well with +the distance to Walet, and from 15 to 20 days would bring him to the +Niger about Yamina. His general route to this point was in all +probability south. From the Niger, his course was probably to the +eastward of south, which would soon bring him to the Ba Nimma, which +seems to have been his river Sansera. The Maly here mentioned, there +seems no reason to doubt, is the Melli of Leo, and the early Portuguese +Voyagers. According to Cadamosto, it was 30 days journey S.W. from +Timbuctoo, and from Leo, we learn that it was an extensive country, +“extending 300 Arabian miles along a river which falleth into the Niger. +It is bounded by Jinnéé on the north, Gago on the east, south by certain +deserts and dry mountains, and west by huge _woods and forests_, +stretching to the Ocean (Atlantic) Sea. The capital, Melli, contains +6000 families or more. They excel all negroes in wit, civility, and +industry. They are rich, and have plenty of wares. The country yieldeth +great abundance of corn, flesh, and cotton. Here are many artificers and +merchants in all places. The people of Melli were the first that +embraced Mahommedanism.” The identity therefore of the Maly of Batouta, +and the Melli of Leo, is very apparent. This country must either be +situated along the Ba Nimma, or on the Niger itself, as will be noticed +more fully as we proceed in tracing the latter. According to the +itineraries which Bowditch obtained from several Moors, there is at this +day a place called Mali, to the west of Sego. (Bowditch, pages 484, 487, +489, and 192.) + +“In 764, (A.D. 1376,) Batouta left Maly, and came to a canal or branch +of the Nile, where he saw a great number of Hippopotami; _and from +thence, after many days_, he reached Timbuctoo. It is a town of the +kingdom of Maly, and a black governor, named by the Sultan of Maly, +resides there. Most of its inhabitants are traders.” From thence he +passed down the Nile in a canoe, till he came to Kuku, paying daily +visits to the towns on the banks of the river.” Kuku is a large city, +_one of the finest in Sudan_. Here, as well as in Maly, they use shells +for currency. From thence he reached the town of Berdamma, whose +inhabitants _are the guardians of the caravans_. Their women are +beautiful. From this he went to Nekda or Tedka, built of red stones. The +water with which it was supplied, runs over copper mines, and assumes a +red colour, whence it is called _Bahar-el-Ahmar_, or Red River. The +people have no employment except trade, and the copper outside of Nekda, +where slaves work. The copper is melted into long pieces, which are +carried to the Pagan negroes for sale, and to other places. The Sultan +was of the Berber nation. From hence the traveller returned to Barbary +in 1376, passing through Twat, Hekar of the Berbers, and Segelmessa, +from whence he went to Faz, where his travels ended.” + +From Kuku, Batouta turned homewards. The road he took from thence +clearly establishes this fact. The people of Berdamma being the +_guardians of the caravans_, and the Sultan of Nekda being of the +_Berber nation_, fixes these places on the south side of the Great +Desert, and N.E. of Timbuctoo. How far Kuku is below Timbuctoo, we are +left to conjecture. From the former place he was 70 days in reaching +Twat. This Oasis in the Desert is 45 days journey from Timbuctoo, nearly +north. Allowing that Batouta rested no part of the 70 days mentioned, +but which it is probable that he did, and taking into consideration the +declination of the Niger southward below Timbuctoo, Batouta could +scarcely have been more than 25 days journey below the latter place. +About that distance from Timbuctoo, according to Sidi Hamed, there are +two very large towns on the south bank of the Niger. Batouta’s account +of the river called “Bahar-el-Ahmar,” is a curious circumstance, and +seems to confirm the account given by Adams of the river which, coming +from the N.E. joins the Niger at Timbuctoo, and called the Red River of +the Desert. + +The two great points, however, here established by this narrative of +Batouta, is the account of the great kingdom of Maly, to which in these +days Timbuctoo was tributary, and the information that the great city of +Kuku, “famous amongst the negroes for magnitude,” was in this land of +Maly, the first place of note below Timbuctoo, and upon the banks of the +Niger. Modern geographers have placed Kuku N.E. of Bagharme, near 1200 +miles from the Niger. Had such an important city been in these parts, it +would not have escaped the knowledge of Mr. Browne’s informants, nor the +researches and inquiries of the accurate and intelligent Burckhardt, who +gives the routes of travellers from Dar Saley to Mourzook, over the very +spot where Kuku has been erroneously placed, without once hinting that +such a city existed. This grievous error concerning the situation of +Kuku, has tended to confuse all the Arabian geography of Africa. The +authority for placing it in the part referred to is Edrisi. But that +author is very undecided and uncertain on that point. “Kuku,” says he, +“is famous amongst the negroes for magnitude. It is situated on the +banks of a river which, flowing _from the north part_, washes it, and +although many negroes relate that the city of Kuku is situated on the +banks of the Nile, _others place it near a river flowing into the Nile_. +The king of Kuku is absolute, dependent upon no one, he has much +attendance, and the greatest empire. The people are of a martial +disposition. The governors and nobility are dressed in satin,” &c. + +The accounts given by Edrisi of the magnitude and importance of Kuku, +are fully confirmed, and correspond exactly with the description given +by Batouta nearly two hundred years later. The position of the city, +however, as mentioned by Batouta, must be relied on in preference, +because he saw what he describes, and Edrisi only wrote from hearsay, +and reports from travellers. Some of these reported that Kuku was not +upon the Nile, that is the Gir, but “near a river flowing into the +Nile,” which is the fact, by Kuku standing upon the banks of the Niger. +Edrisi had evidently very imperfect accounts of the river we call the +Niger, and not sufficient to enable him to distinguish it from the Nile +or Gir, which ran westward till it met the former. Scheabeddin informs +us, that the country between Abyssinia and Syene, through which the Nile +of Egypt passed, was called Coucou; and modern authorities tell us, that +near Lake Fittre is a country called Dar Cooka, but neither of these +were, or could be, the Kuku of Batouta. The city as it is at present +placed, is situated in the land of Kanem, whereas Batouta distinctly +states it to be in the land of Maly, which Macrisi informs us is at “_a +very great distance_” from the former. + +There are some particulars regarding the kingdom of Melli, which require +further consideration. According to Leo, it was bounded south by a +_desert and bare mountains_. In this we readily recognize the high and +bleak hills of Kong. But he states that, on the west it is bounded by +_huge woods and forests_, which stretch to the ocean, that is to the +Atlantic. In this he seems evidently to have had in view the vast woody +and hilly country west of the Niger, and its course above Bammakoo. +Perhaps these vast countries were in those days but little known to the +followers of Mahomet, and therefore supposed to be little else but +continued woods and forests. Indeed Abulfeda calls these coasts +“uncultivated, uninhabited, and unfrequented countries.” Melli, however, +seems to have been a name which extended over a great part of the most +western portion of Africa. The name was quite familiar to the early +European navigators. Cada Mosto in 1455 was informed, when in the +Gambia, that the chiefs up that river, ten days journey distant, “were +subservient to the king of Melli, the great emperor of the negroes,” +(_Clarke’s_ Mar. Dis. p. 279.) According to Barbot, some navigators make +the limits of Sierra Leone extend “north to Cape Verga, making it border +on the kingdom of Melli that way.” (_Clarke_, Mar. Dis. p. 314.) The +early Dutch navigators in 1600 state, that the coast from Cape Verde to +Cape Palmas, was called Melligette, where the kingdom of Melli was +situated. This kingdom of Melli hath another under it called Bitonni, +which lyeth not far from the Rio Cestos. (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 928.) +This shews how far the fame and authority of Melli extended in those +days, and that, though the centre of its power was on the upper Niger, +it nevertheless overawed or claimed respect from the most distant parts +in the south-most portion of Africa[3]. + +Cada Mosto particularly mentions, that Melli was the great channel of +the gold trade with Timbuctoo, Barbary, Tunis, and Cairo. Salt was a +great article of barter for gold dust, and was brought from Tegazza in +the Great Desert. The people of Melli were the carriers of these +articles, and Cada Mosto and several other authorities mention a strange +circumstance, that this barter was effected with negroes whom the Melli +merchants never saw. The latter carried their salt to the banks of a +great water, and placing it there in parcels, left it. Other negroes +then came in boats from islands adjacent, and finding the salt, laid a +quantity of gold beside it equal to what they conceived the value of the +salt to be, and then retired. The Melli merchants returned, and if they +were satisfied with the quantity of gold, took it, left the salt, and +departed, without having seen or spoken to the other merchants. +(_Clarke_, Mar. Dis. p. 245.) According to Wadstrom, the negroes who +carry on this singular traffic, inhabit the interior countries to the +north of the Grain and the Gold coast. The _Great Water_ to which Cada +Mosto was informed the salt was carried for this singular trade, was +therefore, in all probability, the Niger in its upper course, and +eastern branch on the lake, which is probably formed at the confluence +of its branches. + +Having thus briefly considered Batouta’s important narrative, the land +of Maly and Kuku, the most important city in Sudan, situated in the land +of Maly, we shall now proceed to give the account of the course and +termination of the Nile or Gir, according to the authority of different +Arabian geographers. It is the Gir of Ptolemy with which they were +acquainted, and to which all their descriptions apply. Scheabeddin, who +flourished about the year 1400, follows the ideas of Ptolemy about the +Mountains of the Moon being situated beyond the equator, from which +mountains the Egyptian Nile takes its rise. “It cuts,” says he, +“horizontally the equator in its course north. Many sources come from +this mountain, and unite in a great lake. From this lake comes the Nile, +the greatest and most beautiful of the rivers of all the earth. Many +rivers derived from this great river water Nubia, _and the country of +Djenawa_.” His account of the sources of the Nile south of the equator +are grossly erroneous, but the account related, in the Arabic mode of +expression, that a river or rivers flowing from it “_waters the country +of Djenawa_,” is most important, because Djenawa is the Arabic name for +the country we call Guinea, and by them used in a much more extended +sense and meaning. It in fact comprehends Africa from the Gold Coast to +the borders of the Great Zahaara[4]. + +Edrisi, however, who was born in Nubia, and wrote in Egypt, gives us a +more accurate account of the sources of what was then known as the Nile +of Sudan. “In part 4th of climate 1st, (climate 1st extends from the +equator to the tropic of Cancer,) viz. in that part of Ethiopia, south +and south-west of Nubia, says he, “is _seen the separating of the two +Niles_. The one flows from south to north into Egypt, and the other part +of the Nile flows from the east to the _utmost bounds of the west, and +upon this branch of the Nile lie all, or at least the most celebrated_ +kingdoms of the negroes. The blacks mostly inhabit the banks of the +Nile, _or streams that flow into it. It waters the country from east to +west_.” Here the westerly course is most distinctly marked out by both +authors. By the term “separating,” we are not to understand the +separation of the two rivers, as if the one really flowed from the +other, but their separation as rising and taking different courses in a +region, not at a particular spot. Scheabeddin’s term “derived from,” is +tantamount to the same thing, and both are a mode of expression quite +common and familiar in all eastern countries, and particularly with +Arabian writers. Abulfeda also confirms this account of the westerly +course of the Nile. Leo also states the same thing, though he is +extremely confused between the accounts which he had heard, and that +which he must have seen, namely, that the Niger, a different river, ran +from west to east. + +“In climate 1st, part 1st,” says Edrisi, “are the cities of Ulil, Salla, +Tocrur, Dau, Berissa, and Musa, all situated in the Negroes’ country of +Mecrara. In the island of Ulil, which stands not far from the continent, +_are those famous salt-pits, the only ones we know in all the countries +of the negroes_, whence they are every where supplied with salt. Men +coming to this island load their vessels with salt, and direct their +course to the mouth of the Nile, which is at the distance of _one day’s +sail_. Along the Nile they afterwards pass by Salla, Tocrur, Berissa, +and other provinces of Ghana, Vancara, and Caugha. These countries are +subject to intense heat. Therefore the inhabitants of the first, second, +and some parts of the third climate are black.” Meghrara, or Meczara, +says Ibn-al-Vardi, “is in the territory of the Sudans, or the Blacks. +The principal city is named Oulili. _It is situated on the shore of the +sea. There is salt pits, and a great trade in salt_.” Scheabeddin, +already quoted, indeed says, that the branch of the Nile which passes +westward through “the country of Djenawa, does not flow to the sea, but +only to the end of the inhabited part of the land of Ghana.” The end of +the land of Ghana, there is little doubt, is the termination of this +river, because it thereabouts joins the Niger; but that it does not +terminate in this place, Edrisi assures us, when he states that the +river runs through the Negroes country of Meczara, which Ibn-al-Vardi +says is south of the land of Ghana. He also agrees with Edrisi in the +farther course of the river, when he mentions that Tocrur, which is in +Meczara, is situated on the south-west bank. Scheabeddin’s meaning, +therefore, can only be, that, at the point mentioned, it joined another +river, or that its further progress was unknown to him. Had it here +terminated in a lake, he would scarcely have omitted to state it. + +The salt pits, and a great trade in salt into the interior clearly fixes +the mouth of the river on the sea-shore. We shall search the west coast +of Africa in vain, for any thing resembling the account given by Edrisi, +except in the Delta of Benin. There the island of Fernando Po is exactly +one day’s sail from the mouth of a great river. Opposite this island, +and on the mainland, are numerous salt pits. To this day, to this hour, +a great trade in salt is carried on from these parts up the rivers far +into the interior. It is the chief employment of the natives, and has +hitherto been the principal trade which they followed, the slave-trade +excepted. + +In all these accounts, from different authorities, the Nile of Egypt and +the Nile of Sudan are clearly and most distinctly stated to be different +rivers. But we have yet an earlier authority than any of these authors +mentioned, to shew that they are so. In Macrisi’s History of Egypt, we +have related the travels of Ibn Selym Assouany, a native of Egypt, who +travelled through Nubia, and upwards to the Bahr-el-Abiad, as early as +about the year 200 of the Hegira (A.D. 822.) “When on the banks of the +Bahr-el-Abiad,” says Selym, “I inquired at the Moggrebbin (negro) +travellers whom I met there, and who had travelled in Sudan, about the +Nile of their country, they stated that it rose _in mountains of sand_, +(confines of the Desert perhaps they meant) and that it collects in +Sudan into large seas, (or lakes;) that it is _unknown where it +afterwards flowed to_, and that its colour was not white.” Here is the +most convincing proof that the rivers were different. Standing on the +banks of the Bahr-el-Abiad, they must have known if it was the same +river which passed through their country (Sudan.) When they state that +they were ignorant of the termination of the Nile of Sudan, and that its +colour was not white, like the colour of the Bahr-el-Abiad, they in fact +distinctly state, that the latter was a different river from the former. + +The interior of Northern Africa was visited by Leo Africanus, an +intelligent Mahommedan, about 300 years ago. His accounts, as these +relate to the general features of the country, the kingdoms, +productions, and trade, are in several instances of great importance. +There is a confusion, or rather want of accuracy in some particulars, +which is to be regretted. This arises perhaps from errors in translating +his work, and also from the transmutation of proper names from the +Arabic into the Italian, and afterwards into other languages. As several +parts of his narrative will be referred to more properly in another +place, the notice taken of it in this part of our subject shall +necessarily be brief. + +His account of Melli we have already considered. The next kingdom of +importance is Genni or Jinnee, which is bounded north by Gualata, south +by Melle, and east by Timbuctoo. The length, he says, is 500 Arabic +miles, and its extent 250 miles along the Niger, bordering upon the +_Ocean Sea, in the same place where the Niger falleth into the said +sea_. This region, during July, August, and September, is yearly +environed with the overflowings of the Niger in manner of an island, all +which time the merchants of Timbuctoo convey their merchandise hither in +certain canoes or narrow boats, made of one tree, which they row all day +long, but at night they bind to the shore and lodge themselves upon the +land. This country was once subject to the Lybians, (Gualata) afterwards +it was tributary to King Soni Heli, (Morocco,) and next to Izchia, King +of Timbuctoo.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 827.) Either Leo or his +translator here confounds two things which are radically distinct[5]. +The kingdom of Jinnee or Genni is totally different from the country +named, (at least in its extended and general meaning,) Gheneoa, +Ghenehoa, Genowa, Genawa, or Djenawa, which signifies Guinea, in its +most extended meaning. The kingdom of Genni does extend along the Niger, +and perhaps from it the whole country southward might derive the general +name of Genowa or Djenawa. The kingdom of Jinnee, however, in its +restricted and proper sense, does not border upon the _Ocean Sea_, +(Atlantic) but upon Lake Dibbie, whereas Gheneoa or Genawa, (Guinea) +does border upon the _Ocean Sea_, and “in the same place where the Niger +entereth that sea.” De Bry, in his Hist. Ind. Orient. states upon the +authority of the early European navigators, that “Benni, or Benin, is +esteemed to be part of the Gold Coast and Guinea,” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. +p. 965.) The words “Ocean Sea,” invariably mean the Atlantic Ocean, and +are never applied by the Arabs to designate a lake, though the word +“sea” frequently is. El Hagi Shabeeny establishes the fact that Genawa +and Guinea, are the same, when he relates “that fish oil, a great +article of trade, is brought from the neighbourhood of the sea, by +Genawa to Houssa and Timbuctoo; _dearer at Timbuctoo than at Houssa, and +dearer at Houssa than at Genawa_.” (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 28.): thus +clearly pointing out the quarter and the course of this trade. The +length also of Gheneoa, as recorded by Leo, viz. 500 Arabic miles (625 +British) from north to south, would point out, that this country and the +kingdom of Jinnee were different, for that distance would extend from +Lake Dibbie almost to the mouth of the Rio Lagos. + +Timbuctoo, according to Leo, was situated _on a branch of the Niger_, +and was founded in the year of the Hegira 610 (A.D. 1232.) In his days +Timbuctoo had subjected to its authority all the neighbouring states, +viz. Jinnee, Melli, Cassina, Gago, Guber, &c. Kabra, a large town on the +Niger, and the port of that city, was distant from it about 12 Arabic +(14½ British) miles. Here the negroes resorted in great numbers from all +quarters, and embarking with their merchandise, sailed westward to +Jinnee and Melli. Timbuctoo was then, and has ever since, been the great +emporium of the trade of Central Africa. The inhabitants were +represented as wealthy and industrious, particularly while they were +subject to Morocco. + +The great city and powerful kingdom of Gago was situated (the capital) +about 400 Arabic miles distant from Timbuctoo, a little to the southward +of east. The merchants were exceeding rich, and every thing was +abundant. The country abounded with corn and cattle, but fruits and wine +were scarce. The position of Gago by this reckoning would be in about +10° or 10° 30′ N. Lat. and from 4° to 5° E. Long.[6] South of Gago also, +according to other authorities, lay the once powerful kingdom of Eyeo, +or Haiho or Hio, which once commanded Dahomy. Dalzel supposes that Eyeo +and Gago were the same. According to Bowditch, Hio lies in about 8½° N. +Lat. and 4½° E. Long. The people of Acca, or Akim, on the coast of +Guinea, carried on a great trade to Tonowah, Gago, and Meczara, and the +frontiers of Acca extended north to those of Tonowah. (_Leyden’s_ +Africa.) From the Report of Sir George Collier, printed by order of the +House of Commons in June 1820, we learn that Dahomy at this day carries +on a great trade with Gago. The territories of this kingdom in early +times, no doubt, were of considerable extent, and comprehended several +adjoining kingdoms and states, which are now become independent or +subject to other powerful neighbours, such as Dahomy. Gago, in the days +of Leo, who visited it, was bounded on the west by Melli and on the east +by Guber. + +Eastward of Gago lay the kingdom of Guber, 300 Arabic (370 British) +miles distant from the former capital. “Between the two kingdoms lay a +vast desert, much destitute of water, for it is distant from the Niger +40 miles. Guber is environed with high mountains, and containeth many +villages, peopled with shepherds. There is abundance of cattle, great +and small. The capital contained 6000 families, amongst whom were all +kinds of merchants. At the inundation of the Niger all the fields in +this region are overflowed, and then the inhabitants cast their seed +into the water only.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 829.) The position of +Guber, we are enabled to fix with considerable precision. According to +Bowditch, p. 211, Guber, or Goobur, is 10 days journey from the Niger +through the territories of Yaoora, and, skirting the eastern limits of +the kingdom of Zamfra or Zamfara, and in the direct road from Yaoora to +Cashna. From Goobur to the latter place is a journey of eight days, and +“_across a great river_.” From the accounts which Mr. Ritchie obtained +at Mourzook, Guber was the first place in the road from Cashna to +Timbuctoo, and Zamfra the next. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) These +accounts correspond very exactly with Leo, and shew that Guber, a +country environed with hills, is situated near the eastern river or the +Gir, for on a river it is situated, being inundated completely during +the floods. Leo has, in this instance, mistaken the one river for the +other; but which, the authority of Bowditch and Ritchie enables us to +correct. By looking at the map, and attending to the future narrative, +we will perceive, that a _desert_, or bare mountainous district, does, +according to Leo, lie westward of the Niger, and in the direction of +Gago. + +The great province of Cano, certainly the once famous empire of Ghana, +is, according to Leo, “500 _miles eastward of the river Niger_. Here is +abundance of corn, rice, and cotton; the inhabitants are partly +herdsmen, and partly husbandmen. Here are also many deserts and _wild +woody mountains_, containing many springs of water. In the woods are +plenty of wild citrons and lemons. In the midst of the province is the +capital of the same name. The walls and houses are built of chalk. The +inhabitants are a _civil people_, and rich merchants. The king _was +formerly of great puissance_, and had mighty troops of horsemen at his +command.” In the days of Leo, it paid tribute to Izchia (Timbuctoo. +_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 829.) Speaking of Ghana, Edrisi, says, “that the +palace was founded in 510 (A.D. 1132.) No other king has so many +captains, who, every morning, come to his house _on horseback_. He has +abundance of rich ornaments and horses. He has many troops, who march +each with their colours under his royal banner, &c. In Ghana are two +cities, situated on the two opposite shores of what they called a fresh +water sea; and it is the largest, most populous, and wealthiest, in all +the negro countries.” There is no difficulty in recognizing, in the Cano +of Leo, the Ghana of Edrisi. Four hundred years, however, had greatly +changed its fortunes and splendour. The distance of Cano from the Niger, +as placed by Leo, is, perhaps, too much; yet, if he calculates the +distance actually travelled, his error cannot be great. According to +Bowditch, p. 212, Kano is in the direct road from Yaoora to Bornou, and +28 days journey from the former. Bornou, he says, is 52 days journey +from Yaoora. From the accounts which Mr. Ritchie received, Cano is 12 +days journey west from Bornou, (the capital,) and situated upon the +great river, which passes half a day’s journey south of the latter. This +river is called Tshadi. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) From this +account, Cano would be 40 journeys (Bowditch makes it only 28) from the +Niger, which, at 14 miles per day, is 560 geographical miles, +corresponding very accurately with the distance as given by Leo in +Arabic miles. + +The great point established by these authorities, is the existence of +Cano or Ghanah upon a great river, _but not upon the Niger_, and the +_wild woody mountains_, with many springs of water, with the abundance +of corn, rice, and cotton, herdsmen, and husbandmen, all shew a country +very different from what has been supposed, and one where rivers must +increase, not decrease. + +Cassena, or Kashna, according to Leo, is full of mountains and dry +fields, which, notwithstanding, yield great store of barley and mill- +seed (supposed Indian and Guinea corn.) The inhabitants, when he visited +it, were rude, and dwelt in forlorn cottages. By a mistake, Cassena is +placed east of Cano. This, however, is not the fact. Bowditch, Ritchie, +and various other authorities, shew it is west of Cano. Lucas places it +about five days journey north from the great river, and in this Bowditch +nearly agrees; but from the accounts obtained by Ritchie, Kashna was +upon a river, there named Gulbe, and as broad as from the gate of +Tripoli to the Bazaar in the sands, or _one-third of a mile_. +(_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) Perhaps this may be a tributary stream, +descending from the northward, and the mountains about to be mentioned. + +Agadez is enumerated as a kingdom by Leo, but it is so well known, that +we shall pass it over in this place. The southern parts were inhabited +by shepherds and herdsmen. Agadez was said to be distant from Cano about +160 leagues. The kingdom of Zegzeg, mentioned by Leo, is about 150 miles +from Cassena, and its south-east parts border upon Cano. The inhabitants +are rich, and have great traffic into other nations. Their houses are +built like the houses of Cassena. The fields abound with water, and are +exceedingly fruitful. Some parts of the country are plain and some +mountainous. _The mountains are exceedingly cold_, but the plains are +intolerably hot. Because they can hardly endure the sharpness of the +winter, they kindle great fires in the midst of their houses, laying the +coals thereof under their high bed-steads, and so betake themselves to +sleep.” (_Purchas_, vol. ii. p. 830.) This country appears to be +situated in about 19° or 20° of north latitude, and corresponds very +nearly with the position of the Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. The +excessive degree of cold shews the great height of the mountains, and +lays before us these interior parts of Africa, under very different +features indeed to those we have been called upon to behold. From these +mountains numerous and powerful streams certainly flow, and must take +their course southward. Accordingly, in the maps by Ortelius in 1570, +and others of a latter date, various rivers are represented as +descending in this direction, and forming a junction with the Niger. +From the accounts obtained by Ritchie, Zegzeg lay in the road from +Kashna to Timbuctoo, and west of Nyffe. (_Quarterly Review_, May, 1820.) +If so, then it is several degrees farther to the southward, and, from +the degree of cold mentioned, the height of the mountains must be still +greater. Though the boundaries mentioned by Leo are not sufficiently +clear, yet, being in this instance supported by other authorities, the +position given is, perhaps, the safest to rely on. Yet, if Leo is +correct, that Zegzeg touches southward upon Zamfra, it must be more +southerly than the Usurgala mountains of Ptolemy. According to Ledyard, +Zamfra lay to the east of Kashna. From Bowditch, page 211, it would +appear to lie S.W. of Kassena; and Leo says Zamfra borders eastward upon +Zezgeg; in which case, the position as given to Ritchie, would appear to +be the most correct. Amongst such conflicting testimony it is difficult +to be perfectly accurate. Zamfra was, in the days of Leo, inhabited by a +rustical people, subject to Timbuctoo. Their fields abounded with rice, +millet, and cotton. + +The kingdom of Guangara, according to Leo, adjoineth south-westerly upon +Zamfra, and eastward it had the kingdom of Bornou. From Bowditch, p. +212, we find that this is the case; for there seems no reason to doubt +that Oongooroo is the Guangara of Leo. South of this country lay a +region greatly abounding in gold. From the accounts given by Leo of +their mode of travelling thither, and mules being the chief beasts of +burthen, it is evident that the country was exceedingly mountainous and +rugged. Guangara, there is the best reason to believe, is the Vancara of +the early Arabian geographers. This country, according to Edrisi, was +“famous for the excellency and abundance of its gold,” and, according to +Ibn-al-Vardi, it was “the country of gold and aromatics.” The Nile +surrounded it on three sides, and, after the inundation subsided, the +gold was found in abundance. They called it an island, and said it was +300 miles in length, and 150 miles in breadth. + +The large province of Bornou, according to Leo, extended eastward from +Guangara 500 miles, till it reached the limits of Gaogo. It (that is +Bornou) is distant, says he, from the fountain (lake) of Niger almost +150 miles. This distance agrees very nearly with the Lake Caudee, or +Fittre. The south part adjoineth the Desert of Seu, and the north part +stretcheth to that Desert which extends toward Barca. The monarch was +very powerful, and had frequent wars with a powerful people south of the +Desert of Seu. The position of Bornou, as here given, is we know +sufficiently accurate. Leo clearly brings the river, which passes +through it from the eastward, and from the Lake Fittre. Beyond that he +had no accurate idea of the Misselad to the S.E. though he states it was +reported that the Niger really rose in the Desert of Seu, (that is S.E. +of Lake Fittre,) while others said that it was derived from Nilus, +which, after disappearing for a space, at last burst up in the Lake +mentioned. From the accounts received by Ritchie, we learn that the +capital of Bornou is half a day’s journey north of the great river. The +port of the city is called Gambarou, where there are the remains of +castles and houses formerly inhabited by Christians, (_Quart. Rev._ May, +1820,) the refugees, no doubt, who sought shelter in the interior of +Africa from the fury of the early Mahommedan conquerors. + +Gaogo and Nubia are the next kingdoms enumerated by Leo. But, regarding +these, nothing remarkable is stated, and it is sufficient here to state, +that in those parallels of latitude, they extended from the confines of +Bornou to the Nile. All these kingdoms Leo visited, and, in the features +of the country, manners and customs of the inhabitants, and in the trade +and productions of each of them, he could not be mistaken. Therefore his +information is valuable; and we shall see, as we proceed, that modern +authority bears him out in most of his leading facts. + +One thing is plain, from the consideration of all these ancient +authorities, that the interior of Northern Africa is traversed by many +mighty rivers, and is also filled with stupendous mountains. Every one +of these authorities also agree in the westerly course of the rivers +which rise westward of Darfur, and that the great stream which absorbs +the whole of them is a distinct river from the Egyptian Nile. + +Their confusion regarding the Gir and the Niger being the same, or one +stream, we can clear up and account for. For these reasons I have dwelt +upon this part of my subject longer than was at first intended. In his +account of the great natural features of a country, such as rivers, +mountains, lakes, inundated roads, or dry deserts, an Arab cannot be +mistaken, and his authority is a guide sufficiently safe. In his names +of places, in his bearings and distances, it is very different, and it +is there that in following him great caution is necessary. These +distances and bearings are, and become so different,—as their journeys +are undertaken by the slow, unwieldy caravan, the saint begging his way +on foot, the single unencumbered traveller, the messenger urging his way +on horseback, or the Moor or Arab mounted on his camel or fleet +dromedary—these are so different, that unless each mode is specifically +mentioned, there is no possibility of approximating the truth but by a +careful attention to, and comparing a variety of them with each other. +The distance also from place to place is frequently calculated from +capital to capital, sometimes from the capital of one state to the +confines of another; sometimes the name of the capital is placed for the +name of the kingdom, and the name of the kingdom for the name of the +capital; and sometimes both or either are named after some particular +thing for which they may have become famous. The name of a river is also +frequently substituted for a country, and the name of a country for a +river in it. Without being able to determine the distances accurately, +it is consequently impossible to fix the bearings correctly, even where +these are faithfully taken, which, however, are very seldom found to be +the case, particularly when not upon any one of the four chief points of +the compass. + +These things, together with the ignorance of the Arabic and Negro +languages amongst those who have hitherto attempted to explore, or +endeavoured to obtain information concerning Northern Africa, have been +the sole cause why the geography of the interior has remained so long a +mystery. As those are understood, however, the other is elucidated, and +as those are rendered clear, the geography of Africa, like the geography +of every other quarter of the globe, appears simple and natural. Thus, +for instance, Belad-el-Sudan signifies all Africa south of the Great +Desert inhabited by negroes, and, therefore, the _Sea of Sudan_ can be +no other than that sea on its southern shores, or the great Gulph of +Guinea. Bahr-el-Gazalle is not a river, but a fine valley adapted to +pasturage. Houssa, according to Horneman, is not a name applied to a +particular district, but a great portion of Africa north of the Niger, +comprehending many kingdoms and states. Wangara, there is good reason to +believe, besides being the name of a province, is also a term applied to +all Africa south of the Niger, if not also the countries between it and +the great Desert; in short, of all the country through which rivers +flow, in contra-distinction to the Zahaara or Great Desert. Such was the +explanation given to Mr. Hutchison, (_see Bowditch, p._ 206,) and such +the accounts given to Mr. Ritchie, (_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820,) as well as +other authorities. Dar Kulla, or rather Deaar Kulla, signifies a country +full of houses, (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 479.) and the same authority, +pages 444 and 487, informs us, that Bahar Kulla, or Bahar Kulha, +signifies the sea altogether, or an alluvial country. + +In like manner, all the names applied to the river we call the Niger, +are used to distinguish it from the Nile of Egypt. The latter is +invariably called the “Neel Shem,” or the “Neel Masser,” while the Niger +is termed “Neel-el-Abeed,” (Nile of Slaves,) “Neel Assudan,” (Nile of +Sudan,) and “Neel-el-Kabeer,” or great Nile. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny, p._ +443, and _Transactions of African Association_, p. 222.) Regarding the +different seas which surround Africa, the Western Ocean is called Bahar +Kabeer, or Bahar Addolum, the Great Sea, or the Sea of Darkness. The +term _Bahar el Mâleh_, is applied generally to a salt sea; but the term, +says Mr. Jackson, and only term applied by the Moors to the +Mediterranean Sea, is the “_Bahar Segrer_,” literally the Small Sea, +(_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 489.) + +Bearing these things in mind, we shall, without much difficulty, clear +up many points apparently very confused in African geography. That the +Niger enters the Atlantic Ocean we have many direct testimonies. +Although Ptolemy was unacquainted with the outlets of the river, he +evidently believed that it had one in that direction. Edrisi and Ibn-al- +Vardi distinctly state that such is the case; and unless the +transcriber, or translators of Leo, have supplied a word which he never +wrote, namely, the “Ocean _Sea_,” that celebrated traveller, who made +very diligent inquiries of the merchants who came to Timbuctoo from +those coasts, states the same thing. Mr. Horneman was very pointedly +informed that the Niger ran southward of Nyffe till it joined the Bahar +Kulla, or Bahar Kulha, and Park was told the same thing. Windhus was +informed at Morocco, in 1721, that “the Niger, or Black’s River, _had a +passage into the Southern Sea_.” According to the Report of the +Committee of Council, Mr. Barnes states, that “the Niger discharges +itself into a large lake; that he has heard from the black traders that +there are white inhabitants on the borders of that lake—that they dress +in the style of the Barbary Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak +Arabic.” There is scarcely any room to doubt that this alludes to the +Portuguese, and other European settlements on the coast of Guinea +towards Benin. + +Besides these authorities, El Hage Shabeeny says most pointedly, that he +“always understood the Niger run into the sea, _the Salt Sea, or Great +Ocean_,” on the coast of Genawa, or Guinea. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. +40.) Mr. Beaufoy was informed by an intelligent Moor, that “below +Ghinea, (that is Genawa, Djenawa, or Guinea,) is the sea into which the +river of Timbuctoo disembogues itself, and that boats _went with the +stream to_ Ghinea.” Mr. Grey Jackson, who had received much information +concerning the interior of Africa, states, that it is “_the general +African opinion_, that the Neel-el-Abeed (Niger) discharges itself into +the Salt Sea,” (Bahar el Mâleh,) which he clearly and unequivocally +shews is a different sea from the Mediterranean. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, +p. 518 and 489.) The Moors told Bowditch and Hutchison at Coomassie, +that the Niger ran into the Bahar le Malee, or Baramela, (page 205, +_Bowditch_,) which Mr. Jackson, page 489, clearly shews is a corruption +of the Arabic words Bahar el Mâleh, or the Salt Sea. By reports +collected for the African Association, from 1790 to 1798, they were told +that “the Niger was lost in the sands to the south of Timbuctoo,” which +could only mean the sea-shore on the Bight of Benin. The natives on the +coasts of Benin and Biafra, assert that all the rivers in the Delta come +from one great river which descends from the north. (_Robertson’s +Notes_, and other authorities.) As these sheets were preparing for the +press, a further confirmation of this important point was received in +the account given by a sailor named Scot, belonging to Liverpool, who +was wrecked about Cape Nun, and carried into slavery by the Arabs of the +Desert. While in this state, he was carried, along with a tribe, across +the Desert into Sudan, and with them he crossed Lake Dibbie, or what he +calls “Bahar Tee-eb,” the sea of fresh water, or the sea where boats can +go. There he was told by some negro boatmen who rowed them over the +Lake, that, _very far to the south there “lay a great salt water sea; +that the one they were on run into it;_ that there was no end to it; +that there were plenty of _Saffina el kabeer_ (large ships,) upon it, +and that they called it _Bahar el Kabeer_,” that is, the great sea. +(_Edin. Philosoph. Journ._ No. 7.) As we proceed, other authorities will +be adduced. + +With these general observations, I shall proceed without further remark +to the chief object in view, namely, to trace the course, and to point +out the termination of the Niger and its tributary streams. In following +out this subject I shall endeavour to be as concise as possible. The +best authorities also are taken as my guide. “The Niger,” said Park in +the last dispatch that he wrote which has reached Britain, “can +terminate no where else but in the sea.” In this he was correct. In the +sea it must and does terminate. + + + + + CHAP. II. + +_Joliba, two branches, source western, ditto eastern — River Zamma; +course till junction — Snowy mountains — Balia — Lake Clonia — River +Guinola — Kaniaba — Bammakoo, Magnitude of Niger — Rapids — Marraboo — +Yamina — Sego — Jinnë — Ba Nimma — Ba Maniana — Lake Dibbie — River +Gozen Zair — High Mountains — Walet — Course of Niger north-east — Ba +Moriaca — Jinbala — Rakbara — Kabra — Timbuctoo — Bahar-el-Ahmar — +Course of ditto — Houssa — Magnitude of Niger at Timbuctoo — Sidi Hamed +— Course of river south-east — Mountains — Kaffo — Rocks — River bursts +through a chain of mountains — Exceeding high ridge to south-west — +Cabi, a Ferry — Yaoora — Great River from east may join here — Boussa — +Park’s death — Cause of it — Wauwa — Gange — Nyffe — Wassanah — +Magnitude of Wassanah — Magnitude of Niger or Zadi — Course to “Great +Water” — Junction with the Sea, and where — General observations._ + + +The Niger, or Joliba, seems to be formed, in its early course, by an +eastern and a western branch. The latter rises about 80 miles south-east +of Timbo, in the woods between Kouranko and Soliman. This spot is in +about 9° north latitude, and 10° west longitude. The distance from the +source of the Senegal is about 110 miles, and from Sierra Leone not +above 150 miles. The mountains hereabouts are said to be very high, and +are also said to be perpetually covered with snow. From its source the +stream flows north-east. In Balia, above Bourré, a frontier town of +Kankan, and celebrated for the abundance and superior fineness of its +gold, the river first becomes navigable. Here the merchants from Foota +Diallon embark in their journey to Sego and Timbuctoo, which occupies +them four months. At Tankarari, below Bourré, the river is already “two +gun-shots broad.” Kankan is 15 days’ journey west from Maniana, the +capital of which is called Tokoro. (_Mollien_, p. 301-303, and others.) + +Continuing its course north-east, this branch, in about 11° north +latitude and 6° 45′ west longitude, joins a mightier stream flowing from +the east. This branch, there is good grounds to believe, rises in the +snowy mountains eastward of Kong. Taking a circular course, it flows +southward beyond the parallel of 9° north latitude, from whence it runs +first west and then north-west and north, till its junction with the +western branch. Nineteen days’ journey (190 miles,) north north-west of +Coomassie, where it is crossed by travellers from Ashantee, in the route +by Kong to Jinnë, it is said to be half-a mile broad, and _running +westward_. It is called by the natives “Coomba,” and by the Moors +“Zamma.” (_Bowditch_, p. 182.) The French maps, constructed in 1756, by +Robert de Vagondy for the King of France, lay down this branch tolerably +accurate. In the parallels and parts mentioned are the sources of the +Niger eastward of Kong, viz. in 10° north latitude, and from 1½° to 2¼° +west longitude. The mountains must be of a stupendous height, for the +natives state that the cold is very severe in Oalla to the north-west of +Inta, and the hills in those parts covered with snow. (_Robertson’s +Notes_, p. 182.) After this junction, the Joliba continues to flow +north-east, either through or along by the frontiers of Mandingo, and +must be a powerful stream. A native of Mandingo told Tuckey, that his +country “lay on a river _as broad as the Zaire_, (half a British mile,) +but full of rocks.” (_Tuckey_, p. 141.) Travellers from Kong to the Rio +Pongos state, that in their journey west they pass one very large river, +which can be no other but the Niger in this part of his course. +(_Bowditch_, p. 210.) At Tembo, Messrs. Watt and Winterbotham were +informed that thirty days’ journey from thence, in _the route to Sego_, +the “road lay along a great water, _across which the eye could not +reach_, and which was sweet and good to the taste.” It is by no means +improbable that this _great water_ is a lake formed by the Niger at the +confluence of the two branches. The features of the country render such +a thing very probable. The mountains on either hand are of a stupendous +height. To the westward Mollien found the east wind, from having swept +over them, excessively cold and piercing, (page 292.) These are features +altogether new and unexpected in the geography of tropical Africa. +Amidst such mountains the rivers must soon become very large, such as we +find amidst the Andes of South America, where the Beni, after a course +of only 300 miles, is found to be two miles broad. + +While preparing these sheets for the press, chance threw in my way a +copy of the third part of the Geography of Joannis Bleau, printed at +Amsterdam in 1662. In the general map of Africa, he lays down a large +lake in north latitude 10°, and east longitude 10° from Ferro, which +corresponds very nearly with the place we have been considering. From +this lake (situated north-east from Sierra Leone) issues the river +Guinola, (perhaps Guinbala, another name for the Joliba,) which flows +first in a north-west, and afterwards in a northerly direction, and then +north-easterly, till it approaches near the Niger, from which river a +branch descending joins the latter, and from the united streams are +formed the rivers Senegal, Gambia, and Rio Grande. The latter features +we know to be incorrect, though it was believed to be the true +delineation in those days; but the lake and circular course of the +Guinola to the north are curious features. These were no doubt founded +upon positive information, but made to bend to the theory then in vogue. +Mandingo, he states, lay between 9° and 11° north latitude, which agrees +very well with modern information. The capital city, Sango, was 100 +leagues from Cape Palmas; and, he adds, “Multorum in Mandingæ regione +fluminum ortus existet, quæ varias ingressa vias, tandem Gambeæ amni +miscentur.” (P. 122.) + +The Stachirus of Ptolemy is generally supposed to be the Gambia, or more +probably the Rio Grande. According to this authority, the Stachirus in +11° north latitude, and 17° west longitude from Ferro, makes the lake +Clonia. The reader, by turning to the map, will perceive this position +given; for the lake Clonia corresponds with the junction of the two +rivers, and the lake which, in all probability, is there to be found at +this day. Ptolemy has mistaken this branch of the Niger, which he +certainly had heard of, for the Stachirus, the sources of which he +accordingly carried too far to the eastward; nor was his error to be +wondered at, when we find geographers so near our own day continuing the +same error. The extended course of the Stachirus of Ptolemy has only to +be bent northward in these parallels and meridians to direct its waters +to the Niger; and we then have from Ptolemy the upper course and eastern +branch of this important stream. These are very curious and important +circumstances. The west coast of Africa is laid down by that early +geographer several degrees too much east of Ferro, which occasions the +great contraction of all the western parts and rivers, and the +consequent errors in his longitudes in all the upper course of the +Niger, and about the sources of the Senegal, Gambia, &c. The great +southern branch of the Niger he has, in error, evidently joined to these +latter streams. The Arabian geographers also had no idea of the extent +of Africa to the south-west; but conceived that the continent stretched +due south, or rather to the eastward of south from the Straits of +Gibraltar. Hence the confusion into which they were led regarding the +remote parts of western Africa. + +Continuing its course north-east along the eastern base of those hills +which separate its waters from those of the Ba Fing, and having passed +Kankary (perhaps the Kankan of Mollien) and Kaniaba, the Niger reaches +Bammakoo, situate in 12° 48′ north latitude, and 3° 40′ west longitude. +Here Park first fell in with it in his second journey; and he says, that +at this place it was larger than either the Senegal or the Gambia, near +the sea. The breadth of the stream is one mile. It was then in flood, +but _did not overflow its banks_. Thus, though the depth was no doubt +greatly increased, the breadth could not be increased in proportion. A +short distance below Bammakoo, the river passes over several rapids, +which fill its bed during 30 miles of its course. Here the stream is two +miles broad. These rapids are occasioned by a chain of hills extending +south-eastwards of Kong. Three of these rapids are more formidable than +the remainder. The velocity of the water, said Park, when descending the +stream at this place, was such “_as to make me sigh_.” Notwithstanding +this, the river can still be navigated past these ledges of rocks; for +Park informs us, that the King of Bambarra’s, and other canoes, pass +this place in their voyage up the river, with slaves to the great slave +markets of Kaniaba and Kankary. The magnitude of the Niger at Bammakoo +shews, not only that its sources must be more remote than they have +hitherto been supposed, but that it must collect its tributes from a +much more extended range of country than the mere extension of one +branch to the south-west. The Ba Nimma and Ba Maniana, united, and after +a course of perhaps 300 miles, are only half as large as the Niger. The +Senegal, at its mouth, and after a course of 1000 miles, is not so large +as the Niger at Bammakoo. These rivers afford us a scale to determine, +that the sources of the Niger must be far removed from Bammakoo, (much +further than 2° of latitude, the distance hitherto allowed,) and that +its waters must be collected from a wide range of country, extending to +the south-west, south, and eastward. + +From Bammakoo the Niger bends his course in an east-north-east +direction, flowing in a clear navigable stream. High land extends to the +north below Bammakoo. In the above direction the Niger passes Yamina, +Sego, Sansanding, and Silla, all situate in the kingdom of Bambarra. +Bending its course more to the north-east, the Niger approaches Jinnë, +and soon after lake Dibbie, or the dark lake, called also Bahar +Dehebbie, the sea of water abounding in gold; Bahar Tibber, the sea of +gold dust; and Bahar Tee-eb, the fresh water sea; without doubt, the +_Negrites Palus_ of Ptolemy. This lake extends from south-west to north- +east, and is described to be of great magnitude. Canoes, in passing it, +lose sight of land for a whole day. From Scot’s account its breadth may +be about 60 miles, and depth 20 fathoms. (_Edin. Phil. Journ._ No. 7.) +Either near the lake, or running directly into the lake, the Niger +receives from the south the Ba Nimma and Ba Maniana, in an united stream +about half as large as the Niger. The Ba Nimma rises south of Marraboo, +and comes from the neighbourhood of what is properly called Kong. Its +course will be about 300 miles. The Ba Maniana rises more to the +eastward, and has a shorter course. + +About the entrance into lake Dehebbie, the Niger, we may almost +certainly state, receives a very considerable branch from the north- +west. According to Sidi Hamed, at Wablet, (Walet,) a town situate a +little to the south of the desert, and about 240 miles west of +Timbuctoo, there passes a river which flows eastward. Its breadth at +that town was about 250 yards. It was called by the Negroes “_Gozen +Zair_,” but by the Moors “_el Wad Tenij_.” The mountains, to the south- +west of Wablet, were represented by Sidi Hamed to be “at a great +distance,” and as high as Mount Atlas, near Suse, or 12,000 feet above +the level of the sea, but not caped with snow. Amongst these the river +no doubt has its rise. In the course of this river,—and that there is +such a river Sidi Hamed could not be mistaken, because he travelled, in +his route to Timbuctoo, during the space of four days along its banks, +and through a country so hilly and woody that his party were forced to +turn off directly north to the confines of the desert, in order to +travel with greater freedom. In his route from Benown and Jarras to +Sego, Mr. Park passed no river running west; but, as he proceeded south- +east, he passed numerous small streams, all bending their course north- +east. These, to the eastward, must join the river mentioned by Sidi +Hamed in its course to the east; and the united streams, forming a large +river, must join the Niger. And, if the accounts given by Scot are +correct, as there seems no just grounds to doubt, that in his course +across the desert to lake Dehebbie he crossed no river, then the “Gozen +Zair” of Sidi Hamed must join the Niger south-west of Scot’s route to +the lake, and consequently about the confluence of the Niger with the +lake. The stream from Wablet to this point would have a course exceeding +240 geographic miles in length. It is very remarkable, that Ptolemy +brings the chief stream of the Niger in this very direction, and in this +manner, to the Palus Negrites. From this lake Mount Mandrus lay north- +west. It appears also extremely probable, that the river in question was +the Nile of Batouta, and that the Joliba was his river Sansera. From the +direction in which he travelled, the Gozen Zair must have been the first +he met with after leaving the desert. In this point of view also, the +Joliba would be the river, along which, according to Leo, the kingdom of +Melli extended 300 miles. On these important subjects, however, I would +not wish to give a decided opinion. One way or the other, it makes no +material error in the grand geographical features of interior Africa, +which it is my object to delineate. It is a curious circumstance, and +deserves to be noticed, that D’Anville, in his early maps, lays down a +river issuing from lake Maberia, or Dibbie, and flowing in the above +direction to join the Senegal. The course he has evidently mistaken from +the usual misapprehension of Arabian information. Few people had better +information than he had; and he, no doubt, had received positive +information that there was a river in those parts. + +Issuing from the lake Dehebbie, (the position of which will afterwards +be more particularly noticed,) the Niger keeps a northerly course, and +soon after receives from the south the Ba Moriaca, which is certainly a +considerable river. The junction, in all probability, takes place at no +great distance from the north-east corner of the lake, on the south-east +side of which is a chain of hills. The junction of the Ba Moriaca is a +very remarkable feature in the delineation of Ptolemy; and his +description corresponds in a surprising manner with modern accounts. “On +the south,” says he, “the Niger receives one branch above (_supra_) +Daradum, _nigh to the two positions_, 21° east longitude, 17° north +latitude, and 21° west longitude, 13° 30′ north latitude (_Tab. Quart. +Af._ cap. 6.) Here not only the junction of the Ba Moriaca, but also the +junction of the Ba Nimma, Maniana, and Joliba (if it is true that all +these are united before entering the lake) on the south, and also the +great northern bearing of the course of the river at this place is very +plainly marked. The junction of both being laid down in the same +meridian, but nigh to two places, distant 3° 30′ latitude from each +other, shews this in a very striking manner. His longitude of 21° east +also corresponds, when corrected, nearly with the meridian of Greenwich. +All the parts we have here considered are represented as being very +widely and deeply flooded by the Niger during the rains. From the +junction of so many rivers, it is obvious that such must be the case. +Still keeping his north-east course, the Niger passes Rakbara, and soon +after it turns suddenly east, and, in this direction, approaches Kabra, +the port of the celebrated city of Timbuctoo. The great curve which the +Niger makes in its course from Jinnë to Kabra is well known. It is +called “_el Kosie Neel_,” the arch or curve of the Nile. (_Jackson’s +Shabeeny_, p. 439.) That such is the case, is also very obvious from the +time occupied in travelling betwixt these places, according as the +journey is performed on land or by water. By the latter, it is a voyage +of 20 days, but by the former only a journey of 12 days. (_Bowditch_, p. +193.) + +In the present maps, the position of both Lake Dehebbie and the city of +Timbuctoo seem evidently to be placed too far west. Bammakoo, we have +seen, stands in 3° 40′ west longitude. From thence, or Marraboo, which +is a little lower down, Park was altogether 62 hours in passing down the +stream from the latter place to Sansanding. During this period the river +was in flood, and the force of the current carried the canoe downwards +at the rate of fully five miles per hour. This would give a distance of +320 miles. Throwing off 120 for the windings of the stream, leaves 200 +made good in horizontal distance to Sansanding. From this place to Lake +Dehebbie is a voyage of six days by water, when the river is low, which, +taking at only 100 miles made good for horizontal distance, would place +the Lake in the meridian of 1° 20′ east longitude. Jinnë is two days +sail above the lake: from the former, through the Lake to Timbuctoo, is +20 days passage, which, at the most moderate computation, taking into +consideration the difference of latitude, would place Timbuctoo in 3° +east longitude, and 16° 30′ north latitude, if not still farther east. + +Below Lake Dehebbie, or Dibbie, is the kingdom of Jinbala, said to be an +island by some authorities; but this is probably wrong. The Arabs use +the words isle and peninsula as synonymous terms, and call the land +between the junction of streams, or the separation of their branches, +islands. Of this numerous instances might be given. Besides, Bowditch +(p. 193,) states pointedly, and upon good authority, that Jinbala was +not an island, but a town on the northern bank of the river. All this +country is greatly flooded during the inundation. This may probably be +heightened by the junction of the Ba Moriaca with the Niger, and which +stream joining, as it probably does do, the Joliba soon after the latter +leaves the Lake, might, in the Arabic idiom, occasion the appellation of +island to be applied to the country between the two rivers and above +their junction. + +Timbuctoo, the great emporium of the trade of Central Africa, is 12 +Arabic (14½ British) miles from the Niger. Descending from the north- +east, a great river passes very near the city, and joins the Niger at +Kabra. This is a remarkable feature in the geography of Ptolemy, which +seems borne out by modern accounts. We have already shewn that the +“_Negira metropolis_” of that geographer stood where Timbuctoo now +stands. Though the existence of this river is doubted by some, still the +authorities which mention it are so explicit, that there seems no +sufficient reason for disbelieving them. Leo Africanus states, that +Timbuctoo was situated near “a branch of the Niger.” Batouta, as we have +seen, in his journey homeward, crossed a river near the confines of the +Desert, and north-east of Timbuctoo, called “Bahar-el-Ahmar,” the very +name by which the river in question is known at Timbuctoo. D’Anville +lays down a river passing Timbuctoo, and descending from the north-east. +Adams says it was called La Mar Zarah, which Burkhardt and others +rightly conjecture is a corruption of the Arabic words “Bahar-el-Ahmar +el Zahaara,” or _the Red River of the Desert_. The river, according to +Adams, approaches within a short distance of the city on its south-east +side, and is about three quarters of a mile wide. When low, the water is +brackish. Sidi Hamed says, that one hour’s ride on a camel south of the +city, brought the traveller to the great river, and after two hours’ +ride, that they came to the great river Zolibib, or Niger. Two miles +south of Timbuctoo, the Bahar-el-Ahmar passes between two mountains, and +is contracted to half a mile in breadth. (_Adams_.) The water is said to +be of a very red colour—hence the name. _Bowditch_, p. 194, says, he was +informed that during the rainy season this stream overflowed its banks +so as to force the inhabitants to retire from the suburbs to the centre +of the city. Leo also says, that during the inundation the waters of the +rivers were conveyed in canals to water the country. + +On this river travellers embark to go to Houssa, a distance of about 20 +days’ passage according to Bowditch, (p. 196.) On the third day after +leaving Timbuctoo, you come, says Shabeeny, to Mushgreelia, where there +is a ferry, and where the traveller embarks if he goes by water, or +crosses the stream if he goes by land. “If you go this way,” says +Shabeeny, “you _must cross the river before you reach Houssa_. (p. 38, +_Jackson’s Shabeeny_.”) This would indicate that Timbuctoo lay on the +west side of the river. Bowditch (p. 196,) gives the same account of the +distance to the town where the traveller embarks on the river, and he +supposes Houssa to be east north-east of Timbuctoo. It is obvious that +both him and Shabeeny speak of a different river from the Niger, which +cannot be crossed in going from Timbuctoo to Houssa, which latter, all +accounts agree, is on the north side of the Niger, and distant from it. +Between Timbuctoo and Houssa, according to Shabeeny, there is a great +trade carried on by means of this river. “There are more boats on it +between Mushgreelia and Houssa,” says he, “than between Rosetta and +Cairo. The boats are like those of Tetuan and Tangier, but larger. Its +waters are very red and (_hellue_) sweet, or pure. Ferry-boats are +numerous on it. The water in the wells near it are best after the river +has overflowed. Houssa is a journey of a day and a half from the south +bank of the river.” (P. 38, 39.) The wells in the neighbourhood being +sweetest after the commencement of the inundation, is a proof that the +stream flows near the confines of the Desert. Adams travelled during ten +days, at the rate of 18 miles per day, upwards by the side of this river +in a north-east direction before his party struck off north-west to +reach Taudeny. Sidi Hamed says, that for 20 days’ journey north north- +east from Timbuctoo, the country is mountainous, populous, and well +cultivated, and that he passed numerous small streams in that space +flowing south and west to the great river. Ritchie was informed by a +schoolmaster at Tripoli, who had been at Timbuctoo, that the country, +during the space of 15 days’ journey north of that city, abounded with +provisions and water, and that the Oases of Tuat, 45 days’ journey north +north-east of Timbuctoo, was very fruitful, and abounding in grain and +water. (_Quarterly Rev._ May, 1820.) + +In such a country, it is evident that rivers may and must be formed. It +would be a very remarkable circumstance if all the authorities quoted +should have been mistaken in this particular. The gentleman who found +out and examined Adams in London, assured the writer of this, that Adams +was very particular about his bearings, and his reasons for being so +were, that, expecting to effect his escape, and anxious to return home, +he was very careful to observe the direction in which he travelled. +Adams, in his account of Timbuctoo, mentioned that cocoa-nuts were found +there. This made his narrative to be doubted. Leo Africanus, however, +mentions that cocoa-nuts grew in the neighbourhood. The brackish sandy +soil, near the Desert, is a country where we may expect such fruit to be +produced. Whether the river in question is the same as that which passes +Agadez or not, it is difficult to determine. It is evident that it comes +from the point of the compass where the mountains Usurgala of Ptolemy +lay. Bowditch was told that this river ran north-east from +Timbuctoo—separating soon after, one branch ran eastward and one +northward, the latter, first to Yahoudee, a place of great trade, and +from thence to another river called Hotaiba, and which river ran towards +Tunis. (_Bowditch_, p. 187.) It is curious, that in the map by +Ortellius, in 1570, he has a city named Yghidi, laid down upon the edge +of a lake, in 20° 30′ north latitude, and 32° east longitude, from +Ferro. It is evidently the Yahoudee of Bowditch, who, in the route from +Timbuctoo to Fezzan, also mentions, as the seventh station on the road, +a place called _Hotailee_, named perhaps from the river, or rather the +river named from the town. In this account, the geographical line of the +bed of the river is evidently put for the direction in which it flows, a +circumstance quite common in the narratives given by Moorish and Arabian +merchants. Separate streams are also here taken as one, a circumstance +which frequently occurs in the accounts obtained from similar sources. +No river runs towards Tunis; but a stream descends from the mountains of +Eyrè southwards towards Agadez. + +The river in question, or the Bahar-el-Ahmar, in all probability +descends past the neighbourhood of Tuggurt, from the eastern boundaries +of the Oases of Tuat, from whence it may receive a supply of water. That +country is represented as well watered, and a stream is found at +Tuggurt, which may be the Bahar-el-Ahmar, or connected with it. Shabeeny +says the river near Houssa is much narrower than the river at Jinnë. It +is sometimes broader than the Thames at London, and sometimes narrower; +it does not very deeply overflow its banks. + +There are various accounts of the course of the Niger eastward from +Timbuctoo. That given by Sidi Hamed, an intelligent Arab, is the +clearest hitherto received. The whole narrative is extremely plain and +simple. There is nothing in it to destroy the credibility of the author. +Other authorities confirm his accounts. In the middle course of the +river, he is taken as our chief guide. He travelled with a caravan +consisting of 3000 men, 3000 asses, and 200 camels, laden with heavy +goods. Ten geographic miles is the utmost which can be allowed for the +horizontal distance made good each day, during their progress. In such a +country, even this is perhaps too much; but this calculation accords +very nearly with other authorities regarding particular points. This +scale is, therefore, followed in calculating all distances on every +route near the Niger, or to the southward of it. To the northward, as +the country is less rugged, 13 miles, on an average, may be allowed as a +day’s journey. In the countries that are cultivated, this scale will be +found sufficiently accurate. In the open desert, the length of a day’s +journey is much greater, and may extend 20 miles. + +We have no accurate accounts of the magnitude of the Niger near +Timbuctoo. Ritchie was informed that it was so broad that a gun could +not take effect across it. The stream is, in all probability, a good +deal contracted in these parts. From Kabra, the river called here Issa, +and also Zolibib, flows in an easterly course for 60 miles. A very high +mountain to the east here bends the course of the stream more to the +S.E. In this direction, it flows in an open majestic stream, through a +hilly and woody country, for 150 miles. About the middle of the latter +bearing, the course of the stream declines to the S.W. like the arch of +a bow. At this distance from Timbuctoo, two “very large towns,” both +walled, were seen on its southern bank. Many canoes plied on its bosom. +On the N.E. side rose mountains. For 30 miles farther, the river pursued +a winding course S.E. About this place is the part where travellers from +Ashantee and Dagwumba cross the Niger in their route to Houssa. +According to Bowditch, p. 206. the ferry must be about 24 days’ journey +below Timbuctoo, and the stream here about two miles broad. At this +place the inhabitants begin to be friendly to the king of Wassanah, and +enemies to the sovereign of Timbuctoo. In this part of its course the +Niger comes to a very high ridge of mountains, thickly covered with +trees, and so abrupt and steep, that there is no path between the stream +and the hill. “_It ran against the steep side of the mountain_,” said +Sidi Hamed. From the summit of this ridge, “_a large chain of high +mountains was seen to the westward_.” In passing through the ridge +mentioned, the course of the Niger forms an arch, or curve, declining +S.W. Six days are necessary to cross this chain, which there is no +avoiding. Having crossed the ridge, the traveller in his S.E. progress, +comes to the river again, at a place where it is narrow and full of +rocks, “_which dashed the water most dreadfully_.” This is no doubt the +place below Kaffo, mentioned by Amadou Fatouma, (Park’s guide,) where +rocks in the river had formed it into three channels, through one of +which, smoother than the others, their canoe passed safely. Allowing 6 +miles for each day’s journey, this ridge would be 36 miles in breadth. + +From this ridge, the stream continues to flow in a S.E. direction for +120 miles. Its windings in this part are numerous, which indicates a +more level country. To the westward, “_high mountains are very plainly +discernible_.” From the eastward, in this part of its course, flow many +small streams, which empty themselves into the Niger. This would +indicate elevated land at no great distance in that quarter. The stream +“looked deep,” but “was not very wide.” At this distance, 395 miles +below Timbuctoo, is a ferry, and in all probability it is the celebrated +ferry called Yaoora, so well known, and so much frequented by all +travellers from the countries S.W. to the countries N.E. of the Niger. +Considering the distance and direction that Sidi Hamed had travelled, +and considering the bearing and distance from Yahndi to this place, as +given to Mr. Bowditch by various authorities, namely, 42 journeys N.E. +the point will be found to accord with sufficient accuracy. Here the +stream is said to be about _three miles broad_. (_Bowditch_, p. 202.) +Near Yaoora, D’Anville and De Lisle, lay down a river as joining the +Niger on its southern side. For this they, no doubt, had good authority. +The features of the country also render this extremely probable. On this +river, and not on the Niger, they erroneously lay down Cabi, Yaoora, and +Boussa, the first nearest the Niger, and the last at the greatest +distance from it, but at the distances from each other as given by later +accounts. At this point there seems a want in Sidi Hamed’s narrative. +When he says he came to a ferry at this point, where he rested seven +days, it is not said whether the ferry was across the Niger, or across a +river which there joined the Niger on its eastern side. Perhaps Riley +never thought of asking him the question. It is to be regretted that he +did not, as it is very probable that a great river from the eastward +does join the Niger about this place. The reasons for thinking that this +is the case, will be considered more at large hereafter. Sidi Hamed says +he saw many canoes crossing the river, and though there no doubt was a +ferry across the Niger at this place, still the ferry he mentioned, +might have been one across another river which he had to cross in his +further progress S.E. + +Before proceeding farther down the river, a few observations become +necessary at this part of the subject. Yaoora, we learn, is in the +country of Houssa, and the first state of that country on the Niger. To +the country of Houssa, Amadou Fatouma was engaged to conduct Park. Below +Kaffo, says he, was Carmassie, below Carmassie, was Gormou, and below +the latter, was Houssa. At Yaoora they reached that country, and at +Yaoora, accordingly, this guide left the unfortunate traveller. It is +very remarkable that Leo Africanus, and other Arabian authors, make no +mention of Houssa, either as a city or a great country. Yet there must +be a city of that name. All the negroes from the interior make mention +of it, and speak of it as of great magnitude. They also talk familiarly +about snow in their country, which shews the mountainous nature of it, +and also the great height of these mountains. Bowditch was told by +numerous authorities that the city of Houssa was situate 17 days’ +journey (say 220 miles) N.N.E. from the Niger, at the point where we +have already noticed the travellers from Ashantee, Inta, &c. cross the +river in their route to it. Hornemann was indeed informed that Houssa +was the name of an extensive portion of interior Africa, eastward of the +Niger, and comprehending the kingdoms or provinces of Kashna, Daura, +Cano, Nora, Nyffe, Cabi, Zamfra, and Guber. Of these, Cabi and Nyffe +alone touched upon the Niger. These states bounded Kashna on the S.W. +and South, according to Hornemann. Cabi is stated by various authors as +being the port of Houssa on the Niger. L’Hage Mahommed says that Butoo +on the Niger, is the port of both Kashna and Houssa. By the port of +Houssa, they may mean the first city of that country which is reached in +the voyage on the river upwards from the Sea. The distance of Butoo from +Kabra is about 46 days’ journey, which would bring it below or beyond +Yaoora. Eastward of Butoo, L’Hage Mahommed says that the navigation of +the river is interrupted by falls and cataracts. Butoo, there is some +reason to suppose, may be the Bito of Leo Africanus, which, according to +the authority of _Joannes Blaev_ (taken perhaps from Leo) p. 107, is +bounded east by Guber, which latter place Bowditch informs us, is 10 +days’ journey N.E. from Yaoora. Should Bito and Butoo be the same place, +then it would appear to be on the Gir; and therefore may, on that side, +be accounted as the port both of Kashna and Houssa. On the other hand, +the rocks said to be in the river east of this place, corresponds in +some measure with the account of rocks or rapids at Boussa. By the +authority of Bowditch, we learn that Nyffe is one day’s journey below +Yaoora, while another account, which appears more distinct, says that it +is below Boussa and Wauwa. This shews the great extent of the country of +Houssa; and as the name is often used to designate the country, not the +city, so the accounts of travellers are confused, or rendered confused, +by not adverting to this circumstance. + +Below Yaoora, 4 days’ journey, or about 40 miles, is situated Boussa, +where Park unfortunately perished, _four months_ after he left +Sansanding, and when he was so near accomplishing the object of his +important journey. From the time he took to descend the river to this +place, it is evident he must have stopped a considerable time at +different places in his way, and the probability is, that he found the +country interesting. One account says his death was occasioned by an +hostile attack on the part of the natives, from a high rock which +overhangs the river where the stream was very confined and rapid; and +another, that the natives pressed after him to warn him of his danger, +but which he mistook for a meditated attack, and, in endeavouring to +escape, rushed into the cataracts or rapids where he perished. The +former account is, however, deemed the most correct, as the canoe and a +negro remaining in it being saved, shewed that the current was not +irresistible and overwhelming. Park and one of his companions jumped +into the river to escape by swimming, but, unfortunately, they did not +succeed. One of the bodies floated down the river, and was taken out of +the stream at Gangi, an island in it, and buried there by direction of +the king of Wauwa, a kingdom situated below Boussa. The Cape, or +headland against which the canoe struck, would indicate the termination +of a ridge or chain of mountains at this place. Amadou Fatouma’s +description of this rock and passage like a door, was not mentioned by +those eye-witnesses which related to Mr. Bowditch this fatal +catastrophe. + +In this manner perished our unfortunate country-man, after all his +honourable toils and labours, and when he was so near being crowned with +complete success. The account which his guide gives of the events which +led to his destruction are by no means satisfactory. Treachery +occasioned the fatal event; and there is too much reason to believe that +this guide was the traitor and betrayer of his former master. He, I +suspect, it was that kept back the presents which Park had sent to the +chief of Yaoora, and who communicated, at the same time, a message that +Park never intended to return; a message, the very reverse of what Park +was sure to have sent. These things irritated the chief; and in the +deception under which he laboured, he took those rash measures which +deprived society of an excellent man, and his country of an useful +subject. The falsehoods of Amadou Fatouma, put forth to screen himself, +we are, in one instance, enabled completely to expose. Passing Kabra, he +says, they were followed by several canoes filled with men with hostile +intentions. On these Mr. Park and his party fired, and killed a great +many of them. This account was so contrary to Park’s disposition, and so +improbable in itself, that it bore the strongest marks of falsehood. In +a letter received at Mogadore, in the month of March 1806, by Seedi +L’Abbes Buhellal Fasee, from his liberated slave at Timbuctoo, the +writer says, “a boat arrived a few days since from the west at Kabra, +having two or three Christians in it. One of them was (_rajeel Kabeer_) +a tall man, who stood erect in the boat which displayed (_shinjuk bied_) +a white flag. The inhabitants of Kabra did not, however, understand the +signal to be emblematic of peace, and _no one went to the boat_, +although it remained at anchor the whole day, till night. In the morning +it was gone.” (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 319.) Here there is no account +of hostile attacks or slaughter of the natives, all of which, had they +been true, the writer must have known, and would most certainly have +related. Mr. Jackson translated this letter himself, therefore there can +be no imposition. Mr. Park left Sansanding on the 17th November, 1805, +and the letter quoted must have been written early in December that +year. The falsehoods advanced by Amadou were evidently contrived to +justify the attack made by the people of Boussa upon Park, while his +great anxiety to prevent Isaaco from proceeding to Yaoora was no doubt +occasioned by his fears, lest, by going there, the latter should come to +the knowledge of his treachery. + +From the plain and simple narrative of Sidi Hamed, it is quite clear +that the country below Timbuctoo, on the south and south-west side of +the Niger, is extremely mountainous. On that side they seem to have +attracted his particular attention. The very high “_chain_” which he saw +to the westward, from the summit of that ridge which he passed over, and +near which place the Niger bursts through the chain, is a remarkable +feature, and leaves us scarcely any room to doubt that it is the +continuation of the Kong range, or a main branch thereof, extending in a +northerly direction towards the high lands, north and west of Kashna, +and those north of Bornou, upon the confines of the northern deserts, +and which must be the same as the Usurgala and Girgiris mountains of +Ptolemy. The ridge here mentioned by Sidi Hamed is within a short +distance of the high land of Zegzeg, to which it is no doubt joined. A +branch of the Kong range, more to the southward, may extend eastward, +and cross the course of the Niger about Boussa, or even lower down, +until it is merged in the chains of hills to the eastward. The +mountainous nature of the country we have been considering is mentioned +by various authorities, particularly by Ledyard and Lucas, who were +informed, that, south of the Niger, the mountains were of a most +stupendous height all the way to Ashantee and the Gold Coast. It is +probable that the very high mountains last mentioned by Sidi Hamed are +the dry barren range, 40 miles distant from the Niger, and in the route +from Gago to Guber, mentioned by Leo, and the Desert placed by Bowditch +in these parts. In that journey this chain must be crossed, and its +great height may render it barren and destitute of water. On the north- +east side of the Niger, with the exception of the chain he crossed, it +would appear from the narrative of Sidi Hamed, that the country, near +the river, was less mountainous. This agrees with other authorities, and +will be considered more particularly hereafter. + +But, to return to the river:—Continuing its course south-eastward, for +150 miles below the place mentioned, or Yaoora, the Niger reaches +Wassanah, a city twice as large as Timbuctoo, and situated on its +eastern bank. Here the river turns nearly south, and is so broad that it +is scarcely possible to discern a man on the opposite bank. From 300 to +400 canoes, each capable of containing from ten to twenty persons, plied +constantly on the river. Crocodiles and alligators were numerous in the +stream. The land on its banks was well cultivated, low, flooded during +the inundation, and, consequently, produced excellent rice in abundance. +On the western side were many towns and small settlements. Oxen, cows, +asses, and elephants, were numerous, but there were no camels, mules, +sheep, or goats. The King’s guards were armed with musquets; the +sovereign and principal inhabitants wore shirts and trowsers of European +manufacture. The inhabitants were all Pagans, a circumstance which Sidi +Hamed pathetically laments, and which is perhaps the chief cause why +this celebrated city has not been mentioned by other Arabs; it being +well known that in their trading journeys they generally take those +routes where they meet inhabitants professing their own faith. Sidi +Hamed was 51 days constant travelling, exclusive of the 6 days taken to +cross the chain of mountains, in his journey from Timbuctoo to Wassanah. +This would place Wassanah in 10° 40′ north latitude, and 9° 40′ east +longitude. Ten miles per day, however, is certainly more than such a +caravan could make good. That was the utmost which Bowditch and a small +travelling party could make good in their journey from Cape Coast to +Coomassie. We cannot err far, however, in placing Wassannah in 11° north +latitude, and 9° 30′ east longitude. + +Though the accounts given of the progress of this river below Wassanah +are less positive, still these are plain and satisfactory as to the +great point at issue. From this city, according to Sidi Hamed, the +Niger, called here by the natives Zadi, (which seems a very general name +for a large river in Southern Africa,) flows first south and then west, +till it reaches the _great water_, where were found “_pale people, who +come thither in great boats_, and brought muskets, powder, tobacco, blue +cloth, and knives, which they exchanged for slaves, ivory,” &c. These +pale people had in their great boats “_guns as big as men’s bodies_, and +with which they could kill all the people in a hundred negro boats.” +With these people the inhabitants of Wassanah traded. Many people had +been down at “the great water” with slaves and teeth, and come back +again. The brother of the King of Wassanah told Sidi Hamed that he was +soon to set out on such a voyage with 60 boats and 500 negro slaves, and +wished the latter to accompany him. It would, he said, take three moons +to reach the “great water,” and to return by land he would be absent +twenty moons—a striking proof of the slowness of, and difficulties +attending African communications. + +The description here given of the European trade, and European vessels +(for it could be no others,) engaged in it, and all the articles of that +trade, are extremely accurate. Sidi Hamed, a native of the northern +parts of the Great Desert, wholly unacquainted with such a traffic, +never could invent such a story as this, nor had his informants any +reason to deceive him with fictitious accounts; therefore, the +authenticity of his narrative is clearly established, and the course of +the Niger, and certainty of its being navigable, satisfactorily +ascertained. That it is a different river from the Congo, is established +by this fact, for the latter river cannot be navigated by any vessel in +its lower course, by reason of rocks, rapids, and cataracts. Sidi Hamed +arrived at Wassanah early in May, and stopped there two moons. +Consequently, it must have been after the inundation, and when the +heaviest rains were over, that the son of the King intended to set out +on his journey. The current would then be less rapid. The progress of +such a fleet, creeping along the banks of the river, and stopping at +almost every place in its way for the purposes of trade, or to procure +provisions, would necessarily be extremely slow. The voyage also only +continues during the day. As the level country was approached, the +windings of the river would be more frequent and extensive, and, +consequently, greatly protract the voyage. More than a third of the time +would be occupied in stoppages; from 20 to 22 miles per day is the +utmost extent passed over during such voyages; and the horizontal +distance made good on general bearings does not perhaps exceed 14 miles. +Lagos, the great slave trading station, was evidently the place where +these traders reached the “great water.” On the general bearings, the +distance from Wassanah to Lagos cannot be less than 700 miles. Park took +four months in one canoe to travel an equal distance from Sansanding to +Boussa. The time therefore mentioned to Sidi Hamed as necessary to +descend from Wassanah to the _great water_ was no more than was +absolutely necessary, considering the slowness of African travelling. +Time, to an African, however, is an object of no consideration. + +In his journey from Yaoora to Wassanah, Sidi Hamed makes no mention of +any mountains or rocks in the river, though “_he travelled most of the +time in sight of it_.” From this account, it would appear, that the +course of the stream was here more direct, and the country more open. +Yet it is possible that there may have been obstructions which he had +not seen, or neglected to mention, from no questions being put to him on +that head. The canoes which Sidi Hamed describes, as plying on the Niger +at Wassanah, and descending the river to the sea, are exactly the same +as Bowditch and other authorities were informed did go down from the +interior, and which Robertson and others saw come down from the interior +to these parts of the sea coasts. These canoes are all large, and have +apartments for the trader and his wives separate from the slaves and +servants. Wassanah, from the previous accounts, will stand on the Niger +about 100 miles below the place where Park perished, and evidently out +of the track of the great trading routes chiefly frequented by the +Arabs. + + + + + CHAP. III. + +_Eastern rivers — Misselad or Gir, source and course — Dar Saley — Wara +— Other rivers — Gir turns west — Lake Fittre — Magnitude of River; +Junction with the Shary — Bahr-el-Feydh — Bahr Djad — Course of Gir west +— Gambarou — Birney — Bornou — River Tzad — Face of the country — Cano +or Ghana — Kashna — Gulbe, supposed course of ditto — Position of Kashna +— Junction of eastern and western rivers — Vancara or Owencara; what it +is — Bito — Temian — Cannibals — Junction of Gir and Bahr Kulla, source +and course of ditto — Mount Thala — Miri — Junchor and Bahr Salamat +Rivers — Lake Haimat — Island at the Junction of Gir and Niger — Lybia +Palus — Lake of Jackson, or Sea of Sudan; what that is — Robertson — +River Loro — Fillanee — Water communication between the sea coast and +north-east parts of Africa — Course of the Niger to the sea in the +Bights of Benin and Biafra — Boundary of Benin — Bahr Kulha; what it +is._ + + +Before examining more particularly the accounts of the country from +Wassanah to the sea, and the outlets of the Niger from other +authorities, it is necessary to turn our attention to the immense supply +of waters which it receives from the eastern and the north-eastern parts +of Africa. With our present information, it is not easy to fix with +accuracy the points where these waters form a junction with the Niger. +Nevertheless, it is hoped that this may be done with sufficient +accuracy, to shew the great geographical outlines of the rivers of +northern Africa, which are the object of the present research. Let us +take the chief or parent stream first. + +On the north side of the chain, which gives birth to the Bahr-el-Abiad, +or chief branch of the Egyptian Nile, springs the Misselad of Browne, +the Abou Teymam, or Om Teymam of Burkhardt, and the Gir of Ptolemy. It +is satisfactory to learn, from the authority of Burkhardt, the discovery +of this long lost name. It is called by the natives of these parts Djyr, +which, in the Egyptian pronunciation, sounds Gir. Mr. Beaufoy was +informed, that the river of Bornou rose “from the same source,” or, in +other words, in the vicinity of the Egyptian Nile. Leo also heard the +same thing reported. Edrisi states the matter distinctly; and Ptolemy +evidently brings it from the southernmost point of his Garamantican +rampart, in 10° north latitude. The Gir flows first in a north-north- +west direction towards the kingdom of Dar Saley or Borgo. Inclining more +to the north-west, it passes the parallel of Wara, the capital of Dar +Saley, three days’ journey to the west of that city; and, according to +the accounts obtained by Dr. Seibzen, it is in this part of its course +as large as the Nile in Egypt, or near half a mile broad. From the +eastward, according to Burkhardt, it must have previously received the +Oul Rashid, Abou Redjeyle, and Om Ettyman, besides other streams, which +flow from the kingdom of Darfur. The country between Wara and Darfur is +mountainous and rocky. Deep lakes are formed by the rains which remain +throughout the year, and afford retreats for the crocodiles and +Hippopotami. The natives of Dar Saley use canoes in passing their +rivers, a proof of the magnitude of the same. The country about the +sources of the Misselad, is represented as extremely mountainous, and +giving birth to numerous streams. Westward of Wara is several very high +mountains. + +Running northerly from the parallel of Wara, the river soon after turns +west, and, flowing in that direction a distance of 11 days’ journey, +(Browne,) it falls into lake Fittre, certainly the Nuba Palus of +Ptolemy. The coincidence is very remarkable. Lake Fittre is two days +journey south-east of the Bahr-el-Gazalle. The size of this lake varies +in the relations given by different travellers. Some make it four days’ +journey in circumference, others 15. The difference may proceed from the +one account relating to the magnitude in the dry, and the other in the +rainy season, and estimating by different scales. This lake is also +called by the Arabs Caudee and Bahr-el-Noëh. According to a tradition, +the waters of the deluge were absorbed in it. A very high mountain is +situate near it. (_Bowditch_, p. 203.) It is evidently the same lake as +that mentioned by Leo, as lying 150 miles east of Bornou. From Dar Saley +to lake Fittre, the country, it would appear, is rather flat than +mountainous, and much flooded during the rains. (_Burk._ p. 484.) +Towards the Bahr-el-Gazalle the land is woody, and the soil clayey. +(_Browne_.) + +Issuing from lake Fittre, the river takes a western course. According to +the accounts obtained by Ritchie, it is hereabouts one mile broad, and +very deep. (_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820.) At the distance of 12 days’ +journey from the lake, (_Bowditch_, p. 203,) the river is joined by a +large stream descending from the north-east, and called the Sharee or +Shary. Burkhardt also was informed that it flowed from north-east to +south-west, and was as large as the Nile in Egypt, (2000 feet broad,) +full of fish, and abounding in crocodiles. This stream, there is reason +to believe, is also called the river of Baghermee. From its magnitude at +its junction with the Gir, the sources must be remote, and towards the +eastern parts of the mountains of Tibbou of Bilmah. In these parts, +according to Burkhardt, (p. 488,) the country is flat, flooded during +the rains, and fine water is abundant found even during the dry season, +upon slightly digging the sands. Therefore it is called _Bahr_. The +sweetness of the water shews that it is entirely free from the saline +particles of the desert, and, therefore, on the confines of those +countries where rivers spring forth. Perhaps this is the stream which +forms the Chelonidæ Paludes of Ptolemy. A considerable river, called the +Bahr Djad, runs into the Shary on its western side, before the junction +of the latter with the great river. Also, on the eastern side, the +Shary, in like manner, receives a still more considerable stream, called +Bahr-el-Feydh, or _inundating river_. (_Burk._ p. 478 and 479.) On this +river, or near it, according to the same authority, is situated Kanem in +the Bahr-el-Gazalle. Edrisi mentions a river called the Nile, three +days’ journey from the town of Angimi, in the province of Kanem. +According to Bowditch, (p. 213,) six days’ journey east of the confines +of Bornou, and close to Aweeac, travellers pass a very large river, +called by the negro merchants Zerookoo Kerooboobie. It is evidently the +Shary, which is said to be 15 days’ slow march eastward of the confines +of Bornou. (_Burkhardt_.) + +From the junction of the Shary the great river continues a westerly +course, and, it is probable, under different names. The exact course is +not readily delineated. Nevertheless we cannot err far in the chief +features. At no great distance from the junction of the Shary, the +mighty stream approaches within half a day’s journey of the capital of +Bornou, and passes the port of this city named Gambarou. Here it is +joined by another river from the northward; but whether this river is +called Kamadkoo, (the same as the Kammadoo mentioned to Mr. Hutchison, +_Bowd._ p. 213,) and the great river, Tshadi or Tzad; or, that the great +river bears the former name, and the river from the north the latter, it +is difficult in the present state of our information to determine. +Hornemann was informed that the river of Bornou was called Zad, and that +it was a mile broad. Burkhardt was also informed, that the river was +called Tzad, and he was told that it flowed at a short distance from the +capital; therefore, the Tzad may be taken as the proper name of the +great river, particularly as we find it bears that name in its lower +course. The river, coming from the northward, as conjectured by +Burkhardt, probably springs from Mount Dirka, in the great range of +hills south of the desert of Bilmah. These mountains lie nearly under +the tropic of Cancer, and in about 21° east longitude, corresponding +with the chain Girgiris of Ptolemy. The river that he mentions springing +from Mount Girgiris in two places, 5° of longitude separate, may be the +river we have mentioned, or the Shary. The resemblance is very striking. +Across a desert 200 miles broad, and south-east from Fezzan, lies the +country of Tibesti, full of fertile vales and mountains, affording +excellent pasturage. Though it never rains in this country, still +springs are abundant. In this country, therefore, and to the southward +and eastward of it, in all probability, rise all the rivers which flow +south from the river, which passes the capital of Bornou to the Shary. +From the extent of country through which these flow, it is evident that +they must be powerful streams. + +A native of Bornou informed Dr. Seitzen, that the river, within a mile +of the city, was as large as the Nile in Egypt, abounding with +hippopotami and fish. It was navigated by vessels having sails and oars. +It overflowed its banks, and, during the inundation, a virgin female +slave, richly dressed, is thrown into the river by order of the king. +Bowditch, (p. 218,) was informed, that a small river, called Gaboöa, ran +southwards near Bornou; and Burkhardt was told, that the river formed a +lake of a considerable size, on the west side of which stood Birney, the +capital of Bornou, a city of such magnitude, that travellers, in +describing it, state, “_Cairo was a trifle to it_.” Other authorities, +however, deny the existence of any lake; and, whether the river Gaboöa +mentioned to Bowditch, is the same as that alluded to by Burkhardt, it +is difficult to determine. They may be the same; and the smallness of +the Gaboöa may be estimated in comparison with the great river. + +All the countries through which the rivers we have mentioned flow are +very mountainous and woody, and greatly inundated by the tropical rains. +They are also populous, powerful, and well cultivated. The inhabitants +are great traders. Bornou is a mighty empire. Its authority is +acknowledged to the banks of the Niger. The sovereign is represented as +more powerful than the emperor of Morocco. Wangara and Kashna are +subject to him. This country is situated a great deal farther to the +southward and the westward than has hitherto been allowed. Burkhardt is +of opinion that it lies not much to the eastward of south from Fezzan. +According to Browne, (p. 448,) from Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara to +Bornou, is 60 days’ journey. This places it much to the westward. Two +things prove its southern position: First, its territories are said to +extend to within 20 days’ journey of the Bahr-el-Abiad. Second, +elephants are found there, which animals, it is well known, cannot live +in the dry countries to the northward. The country of Bornou is, in +general, level, and very rich and fertile. It produces maize, rice, +beans, cotton, hemp, indigo in abundance, grapes, apricots, +pomegranates, lemons, limes, melons, &c. and plenty of sheep, goats, +camels, horses, buffaloes, and horned cattle. There are also lions, +leopards, wolves, foxes, elephants, and the rivers abound with fish, +crocodiles, and hippopotami. This country is what was known to the early +Arabian geographers as the land of Kanem, a very extensive region and +powerful state, ruled by the Beni Wayl, one of the most ancient and +powerful of all the Arabian tribes. + +From the port of Bornou, the Gir (for we shall retain the ancient name) +continues its course west, declining southward; and, from the accounts +received by Ritchie, at a distance of 12 days’ journey, reaches Cano, no +doubt the ancient Ghana. Bowditch calls it Kano, or Kanoo, and makes the +distance 24 days’ journey. Ritchie’s informant, however, might mean the +frontier of the kingdom, while the distance given to Bowditch, extends +from capital to capital. The river here, according to Ritchie, is called +Tshadi. Bowditch, (p. 211,) says he was informed that the river skirted +Kano and Oongooroo, or Vancara. In the Geography of Joannes Bleav, (p. +105,) it is particularly mentioned that the kingdom of Cano extends, +_for a part only_, along the channel of the Nile on the right hand. This +would serve to shew, if correct, that the course of the stream turned +more to the southward, leaving the territories of Cano. This is by no +means improbable. A difficulty, however, here occurs, as we shall see +presently. Ritchie’s informant appears to make the river continue +westward to Kassena, which he stated was only 5 days’ journey from Cano; +here again he seems to mean the frontier of the former kingdom, for +Bowditch was informed that the distance was 10 days’ journey. Ritchie’s +informant, Hadji Hamet, states that Kassena, (Cassena, or Cashna) was +upon the river here called Gulbe; and as broad as from the gate of +Tripoli to the Bazaar on the sands, or _one-third_ of a mile. It would +appear, however, that when speaking of the Gulbe, he is speaking of a +different river to the great river. The name of the latter above Kashna, +is Tshadi. The name far from and below it is Tshadi also. It is not at +all probable that he would mention the river in Kashna under a different +name to that which the same stream bore, both above and below that city. +Besides, the magnitude of the Gulbe, only one-third of a mile, would +shew it to be a different river from the Tshadi, which, and much nearer +its source, is represented by various authorities as three times the +breadth of the Gulbe. Hornemann also heard that in the country of Houssa +and Kashna, there was a river called Gulbe. + +Mr. Lucas was informed that Kashna was 5 days’ journey, about 65 miles +north of the great river. Bowditch, (pages 207 and 211,) gives it the +same distance; for he states that, three days’ journey from Goobur, and +13 from the Niger, travellers, in their route to Kashna, pass “_a large +river_.” The point to be determined here is, what river is it that is +here mentioned? It is not the Niger. If it was the Gir continuing to +flow westward, then that stream would join the Niger at the place where +the ferry mentioned by Sidi Hamed is placed: but, on the other hand, it +may be a stream descending from the north, and which, passing Kashna +under the name of Gulbe, flows south to join the Gir, the latter river +having previously bent its course in that direction. Sheeref Imhammed +says that the Nile, or the great river, flows west through the kingdom +of Kashna with a rapidity no vessel can stem; and that its breadth at +the island called Gongoo, where the ferry men reside, is so great, that +the sound of the loudest voice from the northern shore can scarcely be +heard. Its depth is 24 feet. Still, however, this river may be said to +run westward through the kingdom of Kashna, and not reach the Niger at +the point supposed. It may also there join the Niger, and yet, previous +to its doing so, receive the waters of the Gulbe from the northward. +Whoever casts his eye upon the map, and considers the nature and extent +of the country to the northward of Kashna, must perceive that it is not +at all probable such a great space can be destitute of rivers. The +cultivated country commences from the Tropic, 450 miles to the +northward. A river descends from the Tropic of Cancer, and passes +Agadez. D’Anville calls it Wad-el-Mezzeran, and makes it rise in about +26° north latitude. He says the caravans from Tripoli to Nigritia +(perhaps kingdom of Kashna,) perform seven days’ journey along its +banks. The authors of the Encyclopedia Britannica affirm, that this +river joins the Niger. In the French maps of 1757, drawn by Robert de +Vagondy for the king of France, this river is laid down as joining the +Niger about 250 miles below Timbuctoo. It is also curious, that in all +the old maps of Africa, (particularly that by Ortelius, in 1570, and +that by Joannis Bleav, 1662.) various rivers are laid down as flowing +from the northward and joining the Niger. Cassena, in particular, is +laid down by Ortelius on a river; and the river of Agadez is laid down +as running into lake Guber. For these things, these authors certainly +had positive, though not perfectly accurate information. Upon the whole, +however, comparing their accounts with those of the most recent date, +there seems the best reason to believe that Kashna does stand upon a +river descending from the north, but whether it is the same with that +which passes Agadez or not, I cannot take upon me to determine. The +probability is, that it is the same. + +Kashna, it would appear, stands in 15° north latitude, and 11° 30′ east +longitude. At this rate Cano, 130 miles, or 2° farther east, will stand +very nearly where Ptolemy has placed his Gira metropolis. This city +stood in 18° north latitude, and 36° east longitude, which, corrected as +before mentioned, is about 13° east of Greenwich. This correction agrees +very well with what Ptolemy says in another place, namely, that this +city was in time 1⅛ hour, (or 17° nearly) west of Alexandria, which is +exactly 13° east of Greenwich. + +Though, from the reasons mentioned, there is a very great probability +that a river, or the great river from the east, does join the Niger +above or near Yaoora, still the silence of Sidi Hamed and Bowditch, with +others, upon that important point, leaves a doubt on the subject. That +junction, perhaps, takes place lower down, and if so, must be below +Wassanah. That such a junction does take place, must be self-evident, +and is, moreover, positively stated. Bowditch was informed that the +Moors call the Niger Quolla at Jinnë, and Sansanding, &c. and describes +the Joliba as falling into the Quolla, east of Timbuctoo (p. 191.) Here +the names are evidently misplaced, no uncommon thing with Arab +travellers. (Burkhardt, p. 489,) states that the Tzad of Bornou, and the +Joliba were connected together. Leo Africanus also states the same +thing, when he says that, during the inundation, “a man in a bark may +pass over all the land of the Negroes.” (_Purchas_, lib. 6. c. 1. p. +765.) In the present state of our information, the greatest difficulty +is to determine the exact point where that junction takes place. The +accounts concerning this portion of Africa are, as regards these more +minute points, very confused and unsatisfactory. The grand features, +however, we are still enabled to trace with considerable precision. + +It is quite common for the Moors, the Arabs, and the Negroes, in their +descriptions of countries through which they pass, to reverse the course +of rivers, by placing the geographical line, or bearing, of the bed of +each as the course of the stream. It is also very common for them to +describe, as one, different rivers which may in their course approach +near each other, and to state as a continuation of a river, any stream +that joins another coming from an opposite direction. Of these, numerous +instances might be given from the narratives of all their authors and +travellers. A few may here suffice. Abulfeda says “the Egyptian Nile +goes on to the land of the Zingians (Ethiopians;”) and Scheabeddin +states, that “many rivers derived from this great river, water Nubia, +&c.” Now the Nile does not go to these countries, but is formed by +various streams flowing from them. Three Moors described to Bowditch the +course of the Niger to Egypt thus: One began it, or made it rise at the +mouth of the Senegal,—one in Bambouk, and continuing it along the +Senegal, came to the Niger above Sego,—where the third made it rise, and +then all three carried the course of the stream down to Yaoora, thence +to Noofee, thence to Rakah, thence to Bornou, thence to Dar Saley, +thence to Darfur, thence to Sennaar, and thence to Egypt; thus embracing +and marking as one, four distinct rivers, all running in different +directions. In short, they identify the course of the rivers with the +direction of their journey: But having one or more sure points to direct +us, such as the course of the Niger east, and the course of the Gir +west, it will enable us to decypher with ease, many apparent +inconsistencies in accounts given by the Moors, Arabs, or Negroes; and +explain their meaning about the Joliba and the river of Bornou being one +stream, as well as other things of a similar description. + +The eastern parts of Sudan, or Central Africa, which we have been +considering, exhibit features very different to what has hitherto been +believed. The mountains are numerous, and, as in Zegzeg, of a stupendous +height. Around Agadez, the country is delightful, fruitful, and +populous. Kashna is beautifully diversified with hill and dale, +delightfully wooded, and well cultivated. Here and there to the +northward, strips of desert countries, and a bare ridge intervenes, but +the fruitful land prevails. The rivers, which are found in almost every +part, are of great magnitude. Ritchie was informed that, in that part of +its course due south of Fezzan, the great river is so broad, that people +can scarcely see an object on the opposite bank. Cities of very +considerable magnitude rear their heads on every side, and at short +distances from each other. Commerce is active; cultivated fields, flocks +and herds, every where meet the eye. None of these things could be found +in a country wild or full of sandy deserts, or inhabited by mere +savages. + +In this part of Africa, all accounts agree, the streams bend their +course to the southward. Amadou Fatouma, “who was the greatest traveller +in this part of Africa, told Park that he was certain that the Niger did +not terminate either in Kashna or Bornou, as he had been in both these +places; but that, after passing Kashna, the river turned, _and_ ran to +the right hand (south.”) Its further course was to him unknown. +Hornemann was informed that the Niger flowed southward from Houssa. Park +was informed (so was Hornemann) that the Niger declined south, till it +joined the Bahr Kulla. Scheabeddin evidently points out the southerly +course of the Niger, when he says, that, except the Nile of Egypt, which +runs north, all the other “rivers of Africa have their direction to the +east, to the west, and _to the south_.” There could be no other great +river known to the Arabs in his days that flowed south but the Niger. + +Taking it as certain that the Gir, or Tshadi, joins the Niger below +Wassanah, we will return to that part of its course where it must turn +to the south-west. This will be between Cano and Kashna. This +necessarily leads us to consider the kingdom or province of Guangara, +mentioned by Leo, and, no doubt, the same as the Vancara of Edrisi, and +the Owencara of Ibn-al-Vardi. This country is certainly not only +situated upon a river, but at the junction of one or more rivers. +Bowditch, (page 212,) informs us that it is called Oongooroo, being a +negro corruption of the Arabic name. It lay between Kano and Bornou, and +was skirted by a river on the north: at present, it seems much reduced +in its opulence and extent. According to Leo, it extended westward as +far as Zamfra or Zamfara, which, we learn from Bowditch, adjoins Guber +on the north-west. On the east it is bounded by Bornou, to which power +it is subject. Edrisi calls it an “empire,” which shews its former +extent; formerly it was subject to Ghana. It was then a very rich +country, and carried on a great traffic with the neighbouring and +distant countries in gold dust, found in the country itself, and also +brought from mountainous districts to the southward. This district is +much flooded in August, when the inundation is highest. According to +Edrisi, it is “most famous for its excellency and abundance of gold;” +and, according to Ibn-al-Vardi, it is “the country of gold and +aromatics.” The gold, they inform us, is collected after the flood +retires; then the inhabitants “slightly dig the earth, and not one of +them is disappointed in his labour.” + +These Arabian authors call this district an island, and say it was 300 +(Arabic) miles long, and 150 miles broad, surrounded by the Nile all the +year, says Edrisi—but only on three sides, says Ibn-al-Vardi. The former +calls it an “island,” the latter an “isle or peninsula.” It has been +already noticed that these writers use the words isle, or peninsula, or +lands lying about and between the junction of rivers, as synonymous +terms. Two examples may suffice. Ibn Selym, the old Arabian traveller +already quoted, says, regarding the Egyptian Nile, that “an _island_ is +enclosed between the Bahr-el-Abiad and Bahr-el-Azreek, the upper end of +which is unknown, as is likewise the extremity of these rivers;” and +again, concerning the branches of the Bahr-el-Azreek, “they have fewer +side-channels and _islands_” than the other rivers. (_Burk._ p. 499.) +This affords us a complete elucidation of what the Arabian geographers +meant by the Island of Vancara. With this explanation also we unriddle +much of the Arabian geography. Edrisi says the frontier of Vancara lay +south-west of Ghanah about 8 days’ journey. Ibn-al-Vardi says this +country was situate “_on the shore of the great Bahr_,” (river or lake,) +which would seem to point out the lake into which the Gir, or Tshadi, +enters. Vancara therefore seems to comprehend the country in the middle +course of the Gir to the lake, and may also be intended to include the +country betwixt the Gulbe and the Gir, the Gir and the Niger, and might +extend to another large river about to be mentioned. The land betwixt +them is, in the oriental style, denominated an island. + +East of Bito, and south of Guangara, is the large district of Temian, +inhabited, according to Leo and others, by a wild savage people, who are +represented as cannibals. I notice this here for two reasons; first, +because it is said that this country is bounded _south_ by the Niger, +which shews how much both it and the Gir decline south even according to +ancient authorities. It is uncertain which river is meant; but as Bito +is represented as being east of Guber, and Temian east of Bito, the +river which bounds Temian on the south is more probably the Bahr Kulla +than the Niger. Second, I notice this kingdom because various other +authorities mention a nation of cannibals in this part of Africa, and +also that they are near the Quolla or Niger. Mr. Bowditch, (page 202,) +was informed that their country was called Canna, Dall and Yum-Yum, and +subject to Quollaliffa, or Quollaraba, a powerful kingdom on the Niger, +below Noofee or Nyffe. Hornemann was informed they were called Yem-Yems, +and that their country lay to the south of Cano. Yam-yam was also heard +of by Burkhardt, as a Pagan country very far distant from Dar Saley. +Browne also was told of this Pagan country very _remote_ from Darfur, +and called by the Arabs Gnum-Gnum, whose inhabitants eat their prisoners +taken in war. (_Browne_, p. 310.) This is no doubt the country called +Temian by Leo and others, and which is said to be bounded _south_ by the +Niger. + +Descending south-west, the Gir approaches its confluence with the Niger, +and near which it is probably joined by a very large river called Bahr +Kulla. The proper name of it however is perhaps different. This must be +a very large river. It may take its name from the country from whence it +flows, and in which it takes its rise, namely, Dar Kulla. All accounts +agree in placing this country nearly south-west of Darfur. The branches +which form the river in question rise on the west side of the mountains +of El Komri, which give birth to the Bahr-el-Abiad, or Egyptian Nile. +The country hereabouts is extremely mountainous and woody; large rivers +must consequently soon be formed. Browne informs us that in this part of +Africa the rivers were numerous and large, and that they were crossed in +ferry-boats hollowed out of a single tree, and managed partly by poles +and partly by double oars. Burkhardt also informs us, from good +authority, that Dar Kulla, and the countries around, “were throughout +mountainous, and that several very large rivers flowed through them, +_which were never dry_,” a strong Arabic expression, denoting rivers of +the first magnitude. The rivers, according to Browne and others, take +courses first north-westerly; in this point corroborating the earliest +authors, and corresponding very accurately with the features of the +country as delineated by Ptolemy. The sources are east of his Thala +mountain, north of his Aranga mountain, and west of that chain which +intervenes between these springs and the Misselad. The Bahr Kulla is +perhaps the branch which Ptolemy mentions joins the Niger from the east +above the Lybian Lake. + +Bounding the range of Mount Thala, in a westerly course, the Bahr Kulla +declines southerly till its junction with the Gir, where the united +stream soon after joins the Niger, if the two streams do not join it at +the same place. Many Moors and Arabs who travel in the interior of +Africa, state, that the Niger joins the Bahr Kulla, and flows to form +the Bahr-el-Abiad. Bowditch, Park, and Hornemann, were each told this; +and an Arab pilgrim, in the suite of the Morocco Princes, told Captain +Dundas of the Tagus frigate, that the Niger communicated with the Nile +of Egypt, through the sea of Sudan. All these accounts only tend to +prove the course of a river in the direction already mentioned, and its +subsequent junction with the Niger. Better authority enables us to shew +the junction of the Bahr Kulla and Bahr-el-Abiad to be a +misapprehension, arising from the manner in which the Arabs frequently +express themselves on these matters. Of the junction of the river which +comes from Dar Kulla with the Niger, there is no doubt; but it is +probable that the words Bahr Kulla, or Kûlha, have a very different +signification than this particular river. + +Betwixt the river of Kulla and the Misselad there is a great extent of +country where rivers rise, and flow to join the Gir in its middle +course. Of these, however, we are imperfectly informed. The chief seems +to be that called Bahr Salamat, which runs north-west, and passes +through Lake Haimat. Numerous other streams, however, spring in those +parts, and pursue their course in a westerly direction, but which no +traveller has yet completely explored. The chief of these streams are +the Miri, the Junchor, and the Terruge, the latter between the Miri and +the Salamat. The two first are certainly large streams; in their upper +parts their courses are north-westerly, and there is little doubt but, +as Major Rennel supposes, they join the great river in Vancara. Hence it +is easy to see that this country must be greatly flooded during the +height of the floods in August. It is curious that, carrying their lower +courses on the bearings mentioned, that the positions and bearings, and +distances of Reghebil and Ghanara, (both situated on fresh water streams +or seas,) as given by Edrisi from Ghana, and from each other, should +correspond so very exactly. + +Browne mentions a singular circumstance, that merchants from Darfur, who +go to Dar Kulla across the Misselad to trade, do not return till the end +of two years, and that they occupy from 80 to 90 days in going there, +and as much on returning. This would indicate that the country was at a +much greater distance than in the immediate vicinity of the Mountains of +the Moon. In fact, at ten miles per day, it would reach almost to the +flat country near Benin. There may, however, be some error even in the +reckoning, or some particular obstructions to travelling, which indeed +must necessarily be very slow through such a woody, hilly, and well +watered country as intervenes. He mentions also that the inhabitants are +partly copper-coloured, which would indicate a mixture of Arabs; and +that this country was towards the west and centre of Africa. On the +other hand, the kingdom being invaded by the arms of Dar Saley, would +shew that the distance from the latter is not very great. + +The junction of the Gir with the Niger, I suppose, takes place in about +10° east longitude, and 9° north latitude. Jackson, in his favourite +theory, that a water communication exists between the Nile of Sudan and +the Nile of Egypt by means of the Bahr Kulla and the Bahr-el-Abiad, +states the belief to be, that such a union of waters takes place in Bahr +Kulla, Wangara, or the Sea of Sudan. That this union, by the junction of +the streams about these parts of Africa, does take place, there is +little room to doubt. But Mr. Jackson seems at length to have renounced +the idea that the Bahr-el-Abiad is a continuation of the Niger. +(_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 443.) Almost all accounts, ancient and modern, +speak of a large lake in the central parts of Africa, but its exact +position it is very difficult to fix; indeed, it would seem that there +are more than one lake in these southern parts of Africa. Some +authorities, however, by identifying the ocean with the lake, or lakes +with the ocean, may thus create the apparent uncertainty. In the map by +Ortellius, in 1570, this lake is called the Lake of Guber, which would +lead us to look for it about the place where that kingdom is placed. +There can be no doubt that the lake in question is the Lybian Lake laid +down by Ptolemy in 16° 30′ north latitude, and 35° east longitude, or, +when corrected, from 11° to 12° east of Greenwich. This is east of the +course of the Niger at Yaoora, above 3° 30′, which would bring the +position of this lake directly in the course of the Gir to the +southward. Ptolemy has placed it in 16° 30′ north latitude; but we have +seen that he was 3° wrong in the position of the Nigrites Palus, and a +similar allowance may fairly be made for the position of his Lybia +Palus. This would place it in about 13° north latitude. It is remarkable +that Hadji Hamet informed Mr. Ritchie that “at Nyffe there was a _large +sea, not salt but sweet_, and that the river Tshadi (river of Bornou or +Gir,) came out of that sea and flowed to the Egyptian Nile. He could not +tell whether the river of Timbuctoo flowed into that sea or not.” +(_Quart. Rev._ May, 1820.) The misapprehension concerning the true +course of the Tshadi is here so obvious, that it scarcely requires +pointing out; the fact, however, of the Gir flowing into this lake, and +the coincidence with the Lybia Palus of Ptolemy, is very remarkable and +important. The lake being formed by the Gir, and not by the Niger, +sufficiently accounts for no notice being taken of it by Sidi Hamed in +his journey to Wassanah. + +Jackson states that this lake, which he takes for the Sea of Sudan, is +450 miles eastward of Timbuctoo, and that “the Neel-el-Abeed (Niger) +_passes through it_.” (_Jack. Shab._ p. 486.) This, supposing that city +to be in 3° east longitude, would bring the position of the lake to be +in 10° 30′ east longitude, 1° or more to the west of the point +mentioned. It must however be observed, that, in tracing the course of +the Niger below Timbuctoo, I have followed the bearings given by Sidi +Hamed. It is possible that it may be carried 1° too far east, and the +course of the Gir not carried sufficiently to the westward. Perfect +accuracy in these things at present is impossible, nor does the want +materially alter the grand features it is my chief object to delineate. +Jackson says that “a lake is formed by the waters of the Neel-el-Abeed, +of which the opposite shore is not visible. It is navigated by large +vessels, which sometimes _come to Timbuctoo, manned by a particular kind +of people_. On its eastern bank begins the territory of white people, +denominated by the Arabs N’sareth,” (Christians.) From this description +it is quite evident that the “lake” here mentioned is a different lake +to that represented as being situated 450 miles east of Timbuctoo. It is +clearly the sea on the Gold coast, and Bights of Benin and Biafra—“a +lake whose opposite shore is not visible,” and on the eastern or north- +eastern bank of which “is the territory of Christians.” The fact of +large vessels coming up from this lake to Timbuctoo, “_manned by a +particular kind of people_,” is an additional proof that the navigation +of the Niger is unobstructed from the ocean to Timbuctoo. + +The Sea of Sudan, however, or this interior lake, if it really bears +that name, is certainly a different expanse of water from the _Bahar +Sefeena_ of Park, which Jackson labours to prove is the same. His Bahar +Sudan, he asserts, is east of Timbuctoo 450 miles. From Sego to Bœdoo, +according to Park, is 30 days journey, in a southerly direction. “One +month’s travel,” says he, “_south_ of Bœdoo, through the kingdom of +Gotto, (Moosee) will bring the traveller to the country of the +Christians, who have their houses on the banks of the Ba-Se-Feena. This +water is incomparably larger than the Lake Dibbie, and the water +sometimes ran one way and sometimes another.” (_Park_, vol. ii. p. 229, +8vo. ed.) The words Ba-se-Feena are very properly shewn, by Jackson, to +be a corruption of the Arabic words Bahar Sefeena, signifying literally +“_the sea of ships_,” or the sea where ships are seen. The direction, +the distance, and every other particular mentioned, however, clearly +point out the European settlements on the Gold coast. The water running +sometimes one way and sometimes another, obviously relates to the flux +and reflux of the sea, a phenomenon which could not fail to arrest the +attention of a negro from the interior. The water here mentioned never +can be taken as a lake in the interior to the _eastward_ of Timbuctoo; +and it is strange that a person of Mr. Jackson’s discrimination in +African affairs should attempt to confound two things so clearly +distinct. The Bahar Sefeena and Bahar Sudan may be the same; but, if +they are so, it is certainly the Gulph of Guinea which is represented +under the appellation. + +But to return to the junction of the Niger with the rivers from the +eastward. From Robertson’s Notes in Africa, lately published, we learn, +by information which he received on the coast at Greghwee, from people +belonging to the interior, that, _forty_ days’ journey from Greghwee, +and in a north-east direction, lay the country of Fillanee, on the river +Kakoa, which flowed into a lake called Issebee, near the sea. Still +farther, in the same direction, and betwixt the Fillanee and another +people called Boolamas, lay the great river Loro, which, descending from +the north-west, was at this point joined by _several other great +rivers_, coming from the north-east. At this position there is a large +island called Wadamsera, the capital of which is called Oendera, or +Wandera. The inhabitants were great traders, and carried on a brisk +trade with the opposite banks of the river: what is more remarkable, +they were partly Negroes and partly Arabs, but all Mahommedans. It is +impossible not to recognize in this account the junction of the Gir and +the Niger. The Fillanee country lay 400 miles north-east of Greghwee; +between it and the Boolamas lay the river Loro. This term Boolamas does +not apply to any particular nation, but it is evidently of the same +signification as Boolas, which, according to Bowditch, is a term of +reproach which the inhabitants of the sea-coasts, who account themselves +more civilized, apply to the slaves brought from these interior parts, +as well as to the population thereof in general. One hundred miles +farther to the north-east of Fillanee would bring us to the river in +question, beyond which are these Boolamas, or savage people, which will +correspond with that country already mentioned where it is said they +devour their prisoners. The direction and distance from Greghwee, as +given to Robertson, would thus agree very accurately with the point +where the junction is supposed to take place, and where, it is extremely +probable, that an island may be formed. The fact also mentioned, that +the population of this island are all Mahommedans, a circumstance +unknown in the middle course of the Niger, proves the existence of an +easy communication between this place and the north-east parts of +Africa, which could only be by water. Park’s guide distinctly informed +him, that, on going down the Niger, as far as he knew it, they would +touch on the Moors no where else but at Timbuctoo. Shabeeny also +distinctly states that “no Arabs are found on the banks of the Nile.” +(_Jack. Shabeeny_.) Sidi Hamed shews this to be correct, when he laments +so pathetically, that the population of Wassanah were ignorant of the +true faith. The fact of a water communication with the distant N.E. +parts of Africa, is otherwise clearly established. Robertson met on the +coast, two intelligent Arabs, who came from a country which lay _five +moons_ journey distant, in a N.E. direction from Lagos. These men stated +that “they _came a great part of the way by water_, in canoes hired from +the chiefs of the country through which they passed.” From the +description which they gave of their country, where “all the gentlemen +could read and write, and where _camels_, horses, and cattle of all +descriptions were plenty,” (_Robertson_, p. 288, 289.) it is evident +their country must be Bornou. Other authorities, from accounts similarly +obtained, give us the like information. + +Descending southward from its junction with the Gir and other rivers, +the Niger, pursuing his course first south, and then south-west, +approaches the low lands in the country of Benin. Here the stream +separates, as is the case with other large rivers, into several large +branches, which take their course to the sea in different directions. +Those again divide into numerous small branches, which intersect the +coast in every direction. The inhabitants of Bonny or Bannee river, who +traded into the interior by means of that river, state, that the Bonny +“_came out of a large river in the interior, which made all the rivers +in that country_.” (_Robertson_, p. 298.) This is positive testimony to +an important circumstance, which the natural features of the country +rendered probable. From other accounts which Robertson obtained, it +would appear that the Niger, before it approaches the sea, forms a lake +called Issebee, from whence the river issues in three streams, which +bend their course south-easterly to the sea, and a fourth which flows +westerly to Lagos. This lake may be 200 miles east from the latter +place, considering the time the travellers took to descend from it to +the sea in August when “_the water ran fast_.” Of its magnitude we are +wholly ignorant. It is well known that the same term in Arabic denotes +both a lake and a large river, and the Arabs use the same often without +discrimination. From a circumstance regarding this lake, namely, that, +during the night, the canoes near the shore were carried backwards +almost as far as these had advanced down the middle of the stream during +the day, (an occurrence which was believed to be the work of some evil +spirit,) it would appear that it is merely the reach of a great river. +Such a phenomenon Tuckey found at every reach in the Congo. The lake +Issebee, therefore, may only be the undivided trunk of the mighty Niger. +If the accounts is correct, this lake, or separation of the stream, will +be in about 7° 20′ north latitude, and 6° 40′ east longitude. + +The country through which the Niger here flows is very level. The +mountains, however, are at no very great distance northward from Benin. +These mountains are represented by the natives as stretching eastward +from the Kong range, and forming a kind of amphitheatre to the +northward. Encircling Benin, they descend south-easterly, till they are +merged in the high land, stretching north from Cameroons. This is +particularly mentioned by Joannes Bleav[7], and also by Robertson. The +general features of the country render this very probable. A small +stream joins the Niger at Wauwa. Near Goodeberry, we are informed by +Bowditch, there runs a river called Leeäsa, but what course it takes we +are uncertain. It is possible it may be the Kakoa, on which is situated +the Fillanee, as mentioned by Robertson. There is, however, no certainty +on this point, and the Kakoa may be a branch of the Niger, or even the +Niger itself, though different circumstances lead me to suppose that it +is a distinct river, which joins the Niger in or near the territories of +Benin. + +Before turning our attention to the coast, it is of consequence to +consider the explanation which Mr. Jackson gives of the Arabic words +Bahr Kulla. The term, he says, in proper Arabic, is _Bahar Kûlha_, which +term signifies the Ocean; and also, an alluvial country. If this +explanation is correct, and which there seems little reason to doubt, we +have the clearest account of the termination of the Niger. Numerous +authorities state, that, in its middle course, it turns to the +southward, and flows till it joins the Bahr Kulha, the sea, or the +alluvial country. This it certainly does do at the points we have +mentioned, and which we are about to consider. It may be necessary +further to observe, on what Mr. Bowditch was informed, namely, that, +close to the northward of Houssa, were two large lakes; “one called +Balahar Sudan, and the other Girrigee Marragassee.” (_Bowditch_, p. +198.) The first, as Mr. Jackson distinctly states, is clearly a negro +corruption of the words Bahar Sudan, and the other, he supposes, is a +negro name for the same sea. Bowditch, there is the greatest reason to +believe, has completely mistaken the information concerning the position +of this lake, or lakes, which must be to the southward of _the country +of Houssa_, and not to the northward of the city of that name. He has +been led into the error by taking the city for the country of Houssa, +and from not adverting to the misapprehension which both negroes and +Arabs are so apt to entertain on these subjects. The greatest care is +necessary in order to make them state bearings and positions of places +conformably to our mode of expressing these things. They very +frequently, in their figures of speech, reverse them. Thus, the shores +of the Atlantic Ocean which bound Africa, are called by them the western +shores of that sea. “The _western_ border of the ambient sea,” says +Abulfeda, “namely, that which washes Africa and Spain, is the Ocean,” +&c. We call it the eastern. Here they seem to look to the land, and we +to the sea. By applying this rule to Bowditch’s account of the lake +north of Houssa, we will see more satisfactorily that he has just +reversed its position. Situate to the south of the country of Houssa, it +may be either the Lybia Palus of Ptolemy, or else the gulf of Guinea, +which, after all, there is reason to believe, will turn out to be the +true sea of Sudan. + +Before proceeding further, it may be observed, that the Niger, about +Yaoora and Boussa, is called Kood, Kaoda, and Coudha, a term of similar +import as Quolla. It is not easy to determine, whether the Arabs apply +the term Coudha to the Niger, or to the eastern river, or to both +streams indiscriminately. It is evident, from the manuscript which gives +the account of Park’s death, that the term is applied to the Niger, +because he was on the Niger. But to whichever of the rivers it is +applied, or, if applied to both, it is clear they communicate with each +other. Shereef Brahima, an intelligent Arab, informed Mr. Bowditch, that +the water of the Coudha goes to lake Caudee, or Fittre; but he enables +us to understand distinctly what he means by that expression, when he +says that lake Caudee is “_the mother of Coudha_,” or, in other words, +that the Coudha flows westward from the lake, instead of eastward into +it. From the same authority, we learn, that between Gamba and the +_extremity_ of Coudha at Yaoora, the traveller passes four rivers, +namely, Kadarkoo, Doodirba, Shawanka, and Wada rivers, at the distances +as marked on the map. Of their course and magnitude we have no +information; but it is probable that the former is to the south or +south-east, and that one of them, namely, the Wada, is the same as the +Leeäsa river. The distance from Yahndi to each corresponds very +accurately. By this information we are enabled to fill up another blank +in the geography of Africa, and to fix, with considerable accuracy, the +features of the country, and the course which the various rivers take in +those parts of that continent. + + + + +[Illustration: _Page 128._ + +The Coast _FROM_ CRADOO LAKE to the HIGHLAND OF CAMEROONS _from the_ +African Pilot + +W. H. Lizars Sculpt.] + + CHAP IV. + +_Bights of Benin and Biafra — Rio de Formosa — Delta of Benin — +Innumerable Rivers — Rio Forcados — Gatto Creek — Cape Formosa — Rivers +East — New Calabar and Bonny River; their great magnitude — Old Calabar +and Cross Rivers — Rio Elrei — Salt Ground — Great Trade in Salt — Face +of the Country in the Delta — Trade to these Places — Inundation of the +Rivers — Time of ditto — Shews they are different from either the Congo +or the Egyptian Nile — Currents in the Sea near the Coast — Number and +Magnitude of the Rivers in the Delta — Breadth — Depth — Trade — Natives +into the Interior — a Race of People almost White — Leucæ Ethiopians of +Ptolemy — General Observations on the N.E. and North parts of Central +Africa — Accounts of Travellers — Kong — What it means — Great Magnitude +of the Niger, and his Tributary Streams — Length of course — Compared to +Magnitude of Bahr-el-Abiad at Shilluk — Cannot be the same Stream — No +Connection with that River._ + + +Let us now turn our attention to the rivers which enter the Ocean in the +Bights of Benin and Biafra. Of the larger branches the Rio de Formosa, +though not the largest, may be considered the parent stream from which +all the others are deflections. At its mouth it is three and a half +British miles broad, with two bars of mud, on which there is 13 feet +water. Besides numerous creeks which issue from it, a very large, deep, +and navigable branch flows into the lake Cradoo, which communicates with +the Lagos river near its junction with the Sea. The space betwixt them, +according to the French maps, drawn for the French Marine service, under +the late Emperor, is filled with low islands; and several rivers from +the northward fall into the lake, or sound mentioned, betwixt the Rio de +Formosa, and the Rio Lagos. The account which Bosman gives of the Rio de +Formosa, is the most particular and satisfactory which I have met with. +“Upwards,” say she, “it is sometimes broader, and sometimes narrower. It +sprouts _into innumerable branches_, some of which may very well deserve +the name of rivers.” About five miles from its mouth, it throws off two +branches within two miles of each other. Agatton, the chief place of +trade, is situated sixty Dutch miles (220 British,) up the river, and on +a Peninsula formed by it. “_So far, and yet farther, ships may +conveniently come, sailing by hundreds of branches of the river, besides +creeks, some of which are very wide_. Its branches extend into all the +circumjacent countries. The country all about is divided into islands, +by the multiplicity of its branches.” The Portuguese, who had +settlements inland, and were well acquainted with those parts, affirm +that “it was easy, with a canoe, to get from the Rio de Formosa into the +circumjacent rivers, viz. the Rio Lagos, Rio Volta, Elrei, New Calabar, +Bonny, and other rivers. The Rio de Formosa meanders through a fine +fertile country, and brings down innumerable floating islands of +considerable extent on its waves. On the north side, the river is joined +by the Gatto creek, which may be the termination of a river descending +from the north, perhaps the Kakoa heard of by Robertson. The Rio dos +Forcados, apparently a mighty stream, no doubt branches off from the Rio +de Formosa, after the streams running south-east have separated. South +of the Rio dos Forcados, is a lake of considerable magnitude, which +communicates with the sea, west of Cape Formosa, and also with the New +Calabar river. The number of rivers which enter the sea from the Rio de +Formosa to Cape Formosa, is six. + +Passing Cape Formosa eastward, besides creeks, we have six rivers, +which, at their mouth are all navigable. Beyond these, we come to the +great estuary of New Calabar, and Bonny, or Bannee rivers. These streams +form a junction near the sea, the one forming an island on the east side +of the estuary, and the other an island on the west side thereof. The +New Calabar river comes from the N.N.W. and the Bannee from the N.E. +apparently at no great distance from each other; but still between them +some streams from the north enter the sound formed by their junction. +This grand estuary is eleven miles broad, very deep, and navigable for +ships of heavy tonnage. On the west side is a bank of sand, thrown up by +the action of the river and the sea. In some places it has thirty feet +water on it. The New Calabar river, opposite to the town, and 40 miles +from the sea, is six fathoms deep. In it, however, are many flats with +only 16 feet water. The Bonny river is perhaps the most powerful branch: +it divides, and forms an island about twenty five miles long, and twelve +broad; the eastern branch, a very considerable stream, entering the sea +under the name of Andonny, or St. Anthony’s river. The town of Bonny is +situated on this island, which is almost level with the water, and a +great part of it is flooded during the inundation. Inland, however, the +inhabitants assert that the land becomes more dry, and the country free +from those pestilential vapours which are generated amidst the swamps +immediately adjoining the sea. The current out of the mouth of the +united streams of the Bonny and New Calabar rivers is strong and rapid; +and it is asserted that they discharge as much water as the great river +Congo. + +Thirty-two miles eastward from Andonny river, we come to the estuary of +Cross river, and Old Calabar, or Bongo river. This estuary is twelve +miles broad; but it may be considered as an arm of the sea rather than +the mouth of a river, though the above rivers fall into it. This inlet +penetrates into the country nearly 100 miles. At a considerable distance +up this inlet, Old Calabar river is found to enter from the east. Its +width and magnitude are considerable; but, tracing it eastward and +upward on its course, it is, according to some authorities, found to +pass over a large cataract which stops the navigation, and which +indicates a course not of great length. Cross river is a branch of the +Niger: our best charts represent it as coming from the N.E. This +evidently is wrong, and should, I apprehend, be from the N.W. This +Robertson asserts, and the name seems to bear him out; for it is by this +stream that merchandize is transported from Old Calabar river to Bonny +river, and the parent stream, the Niger, in order to be carried into the +interior. Therefore, perhaps, it is named “Cross river.” In the French +maps already mentioned, both these rivers are laid down as coming, the +Old Calabar directly from the north, and the Cross river joining it from +the N.W. In the latter, they are certainly correct. How far they are so +regarding the former, future researches can only determine. + +A small peninsula divides the mouth of the latter rivers from the outlet +of the Rio Elrei. The estuary, or arm of the sea into which it falls, is +ten miles broad. Both estuaries are very deep, and the navigation of +either is safe. According to the accounts transmitted to the African +Association by Nicholls, the traveller who fell a victim to the climate +in endeavouring to explore this river, the Elrei comes from the +eastward, and joins the sound, or arm of the sea, north of the high land +of Rumby. Advancing up the river to the eastward, the land rises +rapidly, and the Elrei becomes full of cataracts and rocks, obstructing +the navigation. This shews that the sources both of it and the Bongo, or +Old Calabar river, comes from the bosom of that mighty chain of hills +which we shall presently see terminate on the coast a little to the +southward. These rivers will thus be found to come from the south side +of the mount Thala of Ptolemy. For the reasons mentioned, namely, +cataracts and rapids, it is obvious that neither of these rivers can be +branches of the Niger. + +The country round the Rio de Formosa is uncommonly beautiful. Hence the +name. It is also very populous; but, from being so low and swampy, it is +very unhealthy for Europeans. The same may be said of the whole extent +of coast intersected by the above mentioned rivers. The country to the +northward, between the Rio de Formosa and Ardrah, is without hills, but, +rising in a gentle swell, affords the finest prospect in the world. +Inland, the country becomes more healthy, and the climate good. The land +is extremely fertile. The trees are uncommonly large and beautiful. +Cotton of the finest quality is amazingly plentiful; and indigo and +other dye stuffs are to be had in abundance. The feathered tribes are +innumerable. Horses, cows, and sheep are seen in great numbers. Weaving, +and dressing of leather, are understood and practised. The Jaboos, an +industrious people, carry on a great trade in grain, between Benin and +Lagos. Benin is about ten miles from the river. Agatton is the port of +the city. Benin is still a considerable place, though much decayed. The +streets are long and broad; and it has regular markets every morning and +evening. The houses, though built of clay, are handsome. Benin, when the +Portuguese first discovered this part of Africa, was a powerful empire, +extending westward to Elmina, and so far into the interior, as to be +known to an empire distant twenty moons journey, in a N.E. direction, +whose sovereign, being a Christian, it is supposed could only be +Abyssinia. The extent of Benin is still considerable, their dominions +extending twenty days’ journey from south to north. It claims +sovereignty over New Calabar and Bonny. + +The trade to these parts of the coast of Africa is very considerable, +and annually increasing. The number of slaves annually exported from +Bonny, and Old Calabar rivers, were formerly, and still continue to be, +very great. They are chiefly brought from the interior by a water +conveyance. The people are every where fond of trade, generally civil +and obliging to Europeans who deal honestly; and they are anxious to +cultivate commercial connections with them. All around the Delta, the +population on the sea coast are busily employed in making salt for the +interior market. In the kingdom of Qua, situated between the Andonny and +Old Calabar river, this is particularly the case. The land on the coast +is called the _salt ground_, and is, perhaps, the place where Ibn-al- +Vardi mentions the numerous salt-pits on the shore of the sea. This salt +is carried into the interior, along with other merchandize, in canoes or +vessels, built around Bonny river, so large as to contain 200 people, +and having a cannon placed on each end. They are covered with hides to +keep them dry. (_Robertson_, p. 308.) Boussa, on the Niger, is a great +emporium for this trade, and the place where the people from the sea- +coast meet the caravans from Barbary, to exchange their merchandize. +(_Robertson_, p. 301 and 209.) The natives on these coasts also talk +familiarly of their trade, intercourse, and communication with Houssa +and Timbuctoo. West of the New Calabar river also, is a country famous +for the manufacture of salt, and called the brass-pan country, from the +great demand for articles of this description from Europeans. + +The rivers on the Bights of Benin and Biafra are in flood from May till +December, but the height of the inundation is during the months of July +and August. Then the Rio de Formosa covers all the land as far as Gatto, +forty miles from its mouth, and fifteen from its bed. The inhabitants +amongst the islands formed by its numerous branches, erect temporary +villages, in which they live during the dry season, but which are all +swept away during the rains. Such also is the situation of the country +round the mouths of the New Calabar and Bonny Rivers, and, in fact, +throughout all these coasts. Inland, the overflow of the river is very +great; but we have no accurate account of the height. Shabeeny says, +that it is so great that all the sheep, camels, goats, and horses, which +feed on the banks of the river when low, are removed to the uplands +during the flood. The land is constantly gaining on the sea, from the +quantity of alluvial matter brought down by the different streams. +Places near the mouth of Bonny River, which, within the recollection of +traders of the present day, were stagnant pools, are now become dry and +cultivated ground. In this manner, and during a succession of ages, has +all the land in the Delta of Benin been formed. Every one of the natives +on these coasts agree in stating, that, in the interior, near Benin, a +great river from the northward throws off three branches, which pursue a +southerly course to the sea, and one branch which runs westward to +Lagos. + +The time of the inundation of these rivers shew in the clearest manner +that they can have no communication with the Congo. Their rise begins in +May, and is at the height in July and August. The Congo does not begin +to rise at the distance of 200 miles from its mouth, till the beginning +of September. The distance from the Bight of Biafra, or the point +eastward and inland, over which the Niger, if it flowed south to the +Congo, would have to pass to the point where Tuckey first perceived the +rise of the latter, is only about 560 miles. The current in flood from +six to seven miles per hour, as Park found it in the Niger, (without +reckoning any accelerated rapidity from rocks and cataracts) would reach +the spot mentioned by Tuckey, in the Congo, in four days, and in six +days, allowing one-third more for the turnings and windings of the +river. For similar reasons, the Niger cannot be the Nile, because that +river reaches its greatest height in Egypt, by the time the flood in the +Niger is at its height about Yaoora, which is 4000 miles distant from +Egypt, by the supposed course of the river, and one third more, making a +moderate allowance for turnings and windings. The height of the flood +also in the Bights of Benin and Biafra, being in August, is a most +convincing proof that the waters which occasion it, come from places far +to the northward and westward of nine or ten degrees of latitude, and in +the same meridians, because the rains in the same parallels of latitude +as the mouths of these rivers, are greatest in May and June. Their +violence is past before August, whereas in the parallels between 10° and +20° north latitude, their violence is greatest in July and August. This +being the case, shews that the height of the flood from those waters +which pass Timbuctoo, and which come from Dar Saley, cannot be before +August in the Bights of Benin and Biafra. + +From the immense volumes of fresh water poured into the sea on these +coasts, the currents are rendered exceedingly strong, and the swell and +agitation of the waves very great and dangerous. The current in the sea +sets to the northward, from the Congo along the coast of Africa, till it +approaches the Bight of Biafra. Thence it is bent westward, through the +Bight of Benin, and along the coast of Guinea. From the mouth of the Rio +de Formosa it runs particularly strong to the westward. Bosman describes +the excessive roll and turnings of the sea in this part in the strongest +language: “The tide, from the eastward,” he says, “is so strong, that no +shallop can stem it by rowing.” Having gained the shore through these +terribly agitated waters, is, he says, to have “_passed from hell to +heaven_.” Similar tides, swells, and currents, are invariably found off +the mouths of large rivers, particularly all such as are flooded by the +tropical rains. The mouths of the Maranon, the Orinoco, and the Ganges, +have all similar phenomena near them. + +[Illustration: _Page 139._ + +CALABAR AND Bonny Rivers. Surveyed by CAPTN. NEWTON + +W. H. Lizars Sculpt.] + +When we reflect, for a moment, on the number and magnitude of the rivers +which join the sea in the Delta of Benin, we are filled with wonder and +amazement. From the Rio Lagos to the mouth of the Cross river inclusive, +the number exceeds 20. The breadth of their surfaces connected together, +would exhibit an expanse of fresh water perhaps 50 miles broad. Three of +these only, viz. the Rio de Formosa, the chief outlet of the Bonny, and +the estuary of the Old Calabar and Cross rivers, would make 27 miles. +The depth of these rivers greatly exceeds that of other rivers of the +first magnitude at their mouths. Thus, the Rio de Formosa has 13 feet +water on the bars at its outlet, and deepens to several fathoms as it +leaves the coast. The mouth of the New Calabar and Bonny has 7, 8, 10, +12, and, considerably upwards in the Bonny river, 18 fathoms; while the +New Calabar, 40 miles from the sea, is six and seven fathoms deep. The +chief mouth of the Orinoco has only 17 feet water on the bar, and the +navigable part is no more than three miles broad. The Mississippi enters +the sea by six channels, the two principal of which have only 12 feet +water on the bar in each. Thus the outlets of the Niger greatly exceed +either of these mighty rivers in the depth of their mouths. The distance +from the source of the Missouri to the mouths of the Mississippi exceeds +4000 miles. The Delta formed by the Niger, exceeds in extent that formed +by the Ganges, the Mississippi, the Orinoco, or the Wolga. In difference +of longitude the Delta of Benin is nearly 260 miles. That of the Ganges, +much larger than any of the others, is 200 miles. The navigation also of +the outlets of every one of these mighty rivers is much more obstructed +than the navigation in the mouths of the Niger. They have less water, +and are more intricate and dangerous than either the Rio Lagos, the Rio +de Formosa, the Bonny, and Old Calabar rivers. Of the depth of the Niger +in the interior we are wholly ignorant; but, judging by the depth and +magnitude of its branches at their mouths, we may form some idea of the +depth of the united stream: It must be great. Inland, the Niger, before +it is joined by any of the eastern rivers, is represented as two and +three miles broad, and in its lower course five miles. (_Bowditch_, p. +201.) The united stream of the Orinoco at St. Thomas’ is four miles +broad, and 65 fathoms deep, when the stream is lowest. The Ganges, +inland, is three miles broad, and ten fathoms deep, when in flood. The +united stream of the Mississippi, at New Orleans, is nearly one mile +broad, and 20 fathoms deep. Higher up its breadth is rather more than a +mile in some places, and from 200 feet to 35 feet deep. If we calculate +from its breadth, the Niger will yield to none of these rivers in depth. +The extent of country from whence it collects its waters, is, in breadth +from east to west, greater than that part of South America which forms +the immense Maranon; but, except in the meridian of Benin, little more +than one-half the extent from north to south. The features, however, +throughout the greater part, are of the same stupendous and magnificent +description which are met with in those parts of South America. From the +sources of the Misselad to the junction of the great eastern river with +the Niger, the length of the Gir will, on general bearings, exceed 1600 +miles. The Niger itself has a still longer course; and the stream that +descends from Dar Kulla will have a course of 1000 miles to the place +where it unites its waters with the former streams. Although the +clearest information which we can obtain, leads us to fix the junction +of these mighty rivers at the point mentioned, yet it is by no means +improbable that this junction may take place lower down, or in the +alluvial country nearer the sea. + +It has been, and at various periods, stated, that vessels of +considerable burden, navigated with sails and oars, and some of them +manned by white people, came up the Niger from the eastward to +Timbuctoo. Mandingo merchants informed de la Brue at Galam, that, some +leagues from Timbuctoo, the Niger was navigated by “_masted vessels_.” +Dr. Laidley, who resided long at Pisania, was informed, that vessels of +100 tons burden frequented Houssa, by which might be meant the country +as well as the city of Houssa. A priest, who had visited Timbuctoo, +informed Mr. Park, that “the canoes on the Niger were large and not made +of a single tree, but of various planks united, and navigated _by white +people_.” Major Houghton was informed by a Shereef whom he met with at +Medina, and who had formerly known the Major when he was British Consul +at Morocco, and who had been at Timbuctoo, that “they had decked vessels +with masts, with which they carry on trade from Timbuctoo, eastward to +the centre of Africa.” The crews of these vessels have been stated +sometimes to exceed 150. These things were considered as fables. Late +accounts, however, explain these relations in a satisfactory manner, and +also confirm the accuracy of the earliest accounts which we have of +Africa. Robertson has informed us of the great magnitude of the canoes +or vessels built about Bonny river. We hear of no such vessels employed +on either the Rio Grande, the Gambia, or the Senegal. With these vessels +they trade up the river into the interior. He also states, that the +natives from Tebo to the north of Benin “are _whiter than Arabs_, but +are silky haired; and that the people on the coast give them the same +appellation as white men, namely, _Evoo_.” These people are great +traders, and go far into the interior; and there is no doubt but that it +has been some of these people, with the large vessels mentioned, which +have, at different times, made their appearance at Timbuctoo. It is far +from being improbable also, but that they are “the particular kind of +people” mentioned by Jackson, and the “white people” who dress in the +style of Barbary Moors, and wear turbans, but do not speak Arabic, and +who dwell on the borders of that lake into which the Niger discharges +itself,” which Barnes heard of. It is very remarkable, that, in these +parts of Africa, (for, if we examine his work accurately, we will find +that it is hereabouts,) Ptolemy mentions and places a nation of _white +Ethiopeans_, (Leucæ Ethiopeans.) The circumstances which we have +mentioned prove the navigation of the Niger to be free and open; and +Edrisi distinctly states that the Gir is so also, when he mentions that +the vessels with salt from Ulil go up the Nile through the provinces of +Ghana, Vancara, and Kaugha. All accounts concur in stating that the +canoes which come down the rivers from the interior to the coast, are +large and much finer vessels than those generally used on the south or +the west coasts of Africa. + +Some articles of European manufacture found in the interior also +establish the fact of this channel of communication. Thus the +schoolmaster at Tripoli informed Mr. Ritchie, that the uniforms of the +King’s guards at Timbuctoo were red; and “that they were armed with +musquets brought from the great Sea.” This must be the Bight of Benin, +to which Europeans carry a great quantity of fire-arms. These articles +do not come from the northward, for L’Hage Shabeeny expressly states +that the traders from Morocco to Timbuctoo “_carry neither swords, +musquets, nor knives, except such as are wanted in the caravan_.” +(_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 21.) The reason for this is obvious, for, if +they carried these articles, they would arm and enable the Negroes to +defend themselves, which is not the policy of either Moors or Arabs. +Consequently, these articles must come through countries where neither +of these nations possess any influence. All these things prove, in the +clearest manner, the open, easy, and extensive communication by water, +from the coast adjoining Benin, with the interior; a communication only +found on this part of the coast. + +In the northern, and north-eastern parts of central Africa, from +Mourzook, to Darfur, and from the mountains of Eyrè to Timbuctoo, +instead of burning deserts, and sterile wastes, and boundless swamps, we +now, from good authority, find that there are numerous, powerful, +fertile, cultivated, well wooded, watered, populous, and industrious +states. Every where mighty rivers, from the east, from the north, and +from the west, are found pursuing their course to the ocean, and verging +to one grand point. Benin, Bornou, Asben, Bagherme, Dar Saley, Darfur, +Kashna, Houssa, Timbuctoo, Sego, and Wassanah, and many others, are +populous kingdoms, abounding in metals, minerals, fruits, grain, cattle, +animals wild and tame. Kashna comprehends 1000 towns and villages. The +population of Timbuctoo is estimated on the lowest scale at 50,000. +Houssa is still larger. Wassanah nearly double, and Bornou still more +extensive. The sovereign of Houssa, according to Shabeeny, can raise +70,000 horsemen, and 100,000 infantry. I am aware much must be allowed +for Negro amplification, but still sufficient remains to shew us the +importance of these places. Beyond Kashna, the camel, “_that ship of the +desert_,” is no longer found; thus ceasing to be produced where his +labours could no longer be generally useful or necessary, and in +countries where he is not calculated to live. After passing Kashna to +the southward and south-westward, the face of the country changes +greatly. It becomes less open, and more intersected with great rivers, +inundated roads, prodigious forests, and stupendous mountains, all the +way to the gold coast. All these countries, all Central Africa, abounds +with the elements of commerce; and her noble rivers afford the easiest, +the safest, the cheapest, and most expeditious roads for the collecting +and the conveyance of these. In all things, it is superior to what any +portion of America, in the same parallels, or indeed in any parallel, +afforded when Europeans first visited that quarter of the globe. + +In the course of the Gir, or Nile of Sudan, as delineated on the map +accompanying this work, it may be observed, that it is extremely +probable the course of the stream in the middle part is still too much +(perhaps a degree and a half) to the north. This would bring the lake +Fittre into the latitude assigned by Ptolemy to the Nuba Palus. The +bend, or angle formed by the river northward of Wara, is also, in all +probability, much less acute than is represented on the map; and Wara is +perhaps more to the west, and not so much to the north of Darfur. This +would give the river, in appearance, a more natural course in those +parts, and which the bearings given by the Arabian and native merchants +would admit of without unnecessarily wresting their meaning. The rivers +that descend from the north would thus have a greater space to traverse +before these joined the Gir. On the other hand, the mountains which give +these birth, may be more to the southward than I have placed them; and, +in this particular, corresponding with the accounts given by Ptolemy +more accurately than their position as supported by the testimony of +Arab merchants. From 21° to 22° north latitude, there is reason to +believe, is the true position of the highest chain of those natural +barriers which divide the desert from the fruitful land. Northward, +there is no doubt, lesser chains gradually decreasing in height, till +these reach the desert. Northward of Ashantee, we have no difficulty in +ascertaining the highest land. The magnitude of the rivers which flow +S.E. point that out very distinctly. Thus we learn from Bowditch, (p. +171.) that at, and near Boopee, the Adirri and Addifoosoo, the two chief +sources of the Rio Volta, are about 120 yards broad. Lower down, and in +the route from Coomassie to Sallagha, the rivers Kirradee, and Oboosoom, +running S.E. are each about 60 yards broad. These things are sure guides +in determining the most elevated parts of the country. Independent of +the positive testimony of Sidi Hamed, regarding the very high ridges of +mountains in the central parts of Africa, with other concurrent +circumstances, we have the positive testimony of various other +intelligent Arabian travellers and merchants, that stupendous mountains +cover these parts of Africa. Leo informs us that Guber is environed with +mountains; and from Cashna, southward to Ashantee, all authorities agree +in stating that prodigious high hills raise their lofty heads throughout +all the space mentioned. The country northward from Ashantee to Sego and +Jinnë is full of exceeding high mountains, which renders commercial +communications almost impracticable. On the other hand, merchants and +travellers who come from the country of Houssa, to the sea coast at +Lagos and Bonny, make no mention of any particular chain of mountains, +or inconvenience therefrom to travellers; but speak of heights, and +complain chiefly of interruption and difficulties arising from large +rivers, lakes, and morasses. This shews the parts of the country where +the mountains become less elevated, and the land more open, thus +affording an easy passage for the mighty rivers in their course to the +ocean. + +The word Kong is Mandingo, and signifies a mountainous country, and not +one particular ridge. Did an impenetrable ridge, as is imagined, extend +from Kong in 10° north latitude to Komri in 7° degrees north latitude, +then the distance from its summit to Benin would not exceed 240 +geographic miles. In such a distance, it is utterly impossible that so +many, or indeed any one of the great rivers which enter the sea through +the Delta of Benin, could be formed. From the westward none of them does +or can come; and from the east it is equally obvious that they cannot +flow. All this portion of Africa is mountainous; but it is evident these +mountains admit a passage for the united waters of the Niger and the Gir +from the northward, which, emerging from the mountainous districts, flow +through a level country, and, in the lapse of ages, have formed the +alluvial Delta of Benin. + +In the Bights of Biafra and Benin, therefore, is the great outlet of the +Niger, bearing along, in his majestic stream, all the waters of Central +Africa, from 10° west longitude to 28° east longitude, and from the +Tropic of Cancer to the shores of Benin. It is certain it is navigable +from Balia, for Park informs us canoes can pass the rapids at Marraboo. +This celebrated traveller descended the stream in safety to Boussa, +where an accident terminated his life. The traders from the coast go up +the river above this place. The course of the Niger will greatly +resemble, on the map, that of the Orinoco of South America, and the +length from the extreme sources (and those nearest its mouth) will be, +on general bearings, 2250 geographic, or about 2600 British miles. The +cannon, therefore, which thundered at Aboukir, and made the Nile +tremble—those cannon which burst asunder, for ever, the chains of +Christian slavery at Algiers, and which bore the fame of Britain[8] into +the deepest recesses of Africa, may in safety awaken with their echoes, +to obedience and respect, the uncivilized, or half civilized, nations of +all Central Africa. + +We have noticed, and from sure authority, the magnitude of the Niger at +Bammakoo—in flood, one mile broad. At the ferry in the route to Houssa, +it is described as two miles broad; at Yaoora, three miles. In other +places it is stated by the Moors as five miles broad. We have noticed +the magnitude of the Gir, the Shary, and the Tzad, in the early part of +their courses—we have noticed the probable magnitude of the Bahr Kulla +and the supposed Gulbe, all uniting in the Gir, which, where it passes +through part of Kashna, with a rapid current, is twenty-three to twenty- +four feet deep, and very wide; and having considered these things +minutely, it is obvious that the united flood (making large allowances +for African amplification,) must form a river equalled by few, very few, +on this globe. The Maranon alone can exceed it. Neither sands can +absorb, nor lakes contain, such streams. When Bowditch mentioned to the +Arabs whom he met with at Ashantee, the European theory, that the Niger +was lost in lakes or sands, they expressed the utmost astonishment. +“God,” they said, “made all the great rivers to flow into the sea, and +did Europeans think that he made the Quolla (Niger,) the greatest of +them all, to be lost in the sands of the desert.” + +It has been argued that the diminished size of the Bahr-el-Abiad at +Shilluk, compared with that of the Niger at Bammakoo, and more eastward +in its course, was easily accounted for by evaporation. This argument +might have been allowed some weight, had it been shewn that the supposed +course of the Niger from Timbuctoo to Shilluk lay through countries as +dry and sandy as those countries are through which the Nile flows from +Shilluk to the shores of Egypt. The reverse, however, is, from every +information we can receive, the case. The country along the supposed +course of the Niger, from Timbuctoo to Shilluk, is all remarkably hilly, +woody, mountainous, in many places well cultivated, and abounding with +large rivers, which must increase, not diminish, any great river which +flowed through it. Again, it is argued that the Bahr-el-Abiad being +_full_ all the year, is a proof that it is the Niger. This account, +however, proves the very reverse, because the Niger is not _full_, or in +flood, (for so those who reason thus would take the expression used by +Bruce,) all the year, but only during a part thereof. The expression, +“full all the year,” however, does not mean that the Bahr-el-Abiad is in +perpetual flood, but that it does not diminish in size during the dry +season so much as the Bahr-el-Azreek, and other streams that flow from +the south-eastward. That this is the true meaning of the expression is +obvious, for Bruce also expressly states that “_all_ the rivers in these +parts fail when the sun goes South of the line.” + +This continued fullness, or rather greater copiousness of the stream, +during the dry season, in comparison with the eastern branches of the +Nile, proves to a demonstration that the chief branches of the Bahr-el- +Abiad either spring greatly to the southward, (some of them most +probably do,) near the equator, or else considerably to the south- +westward of Shilluk, amidst stupendous mountains covered with +impenetrable forests, where the sun’s rays, during the dry season, have +no influence in lessening the damps and moisture which give vigour to +the springs, and where also the height of the mountains may be such, as +melting snows may at all times add resources to the stream. From Donga, +where the Bahr-el-Abiad is said to rise, to Shilluk, is above 300 miles. +In an equal space, and through similar countries and Alpine scenery, the +Niger becomes a much larger river than the Bahr-el-Abiad is represented +to be at Shilluk. At its junction with the Bahr-el-Azreek it is said to +be three times as large as that stream when it is low. At this junction, +which is in 16° north latitude, the Bahr-el-Azreek can be _crossed on +foot, and is only mid-leg deep_. The magnitude, therefore, of the Bahr- +el-Abiad, calculated by the scale given, it is evident, cannot be very +large. Besides, the Bahr-el-Adda intervenes between the Bahr-el-Abiad +and the conjectured course of the Niger southward and eastward; and +whichever of the former streams may be chosen as the continuation of the +latter, still the theory in question exhibits the Niger in its lower +course as running, not down from, but up against, the hills and high +lands; for such are, and must be, situate about the sources of either +the Bahr-el-Adda or the Bahr-el-Abiad. The latter also is represented, +not as a still river, but of a current so rapid that a considerable +distance is passed over before its waters are mixed with those of the +Bahr-el-Azreek. + +Considering all these things attentively, it is not possible that the +Niger, and its collected waters, can flow to form the Bahr-el-Abiad, or +the Nile of Egypt. They may have a communication. That is possible, but +not probable. They are certainly distinct rivers. Can a river which is a +British mile broad, as the Niger is at Bammakoo, in longitude 4° west, +and latitude 13° north, flow through all Central Africa, passing in its +progress east the parallel of 16° north latitude, and then returning +south to 7° north latitude, through a country filled with stupendous +mountains covered with snow, extensive forests, and drenched with +tropical rains— Can such a river, receiving, as it does, and must do, +mighty streams on either hand, flow again northward to north latitude +14°, and to the eastward as far as east longitude 33°; a distance, upon +the general bearings of its course, equal to 2700 geographic (3127 +British) miles; and then and there dwindle down to a stream such as the +Bahr-el-Abiad is at Shilluk; the breadth of which, according to Browne, +is only such that _the human features could not be distinguished, but +the human voice could be heard, by a person on the opposite bank?_ This +breadth cannot exceed a quarter of a mile. The identity, therefore, of +the Niger and the Bahr-el-Abiad, is, for this as well as for many other +reasons too tedious to mention, altogether impossible. Swelled by the +tropical rains, which make the dry-bedded torrents of the deserts of +Africa become mighty streams, the Niger, with his accumulating, +accumulated flood, would become a river of such force and magnitude, as +would sweep all the cultivated land of Nubia bare as the rocks which +there compose the bed of the Nile—bear Egypt and her cities headlong +into the Mediterranean Sea, and cover perpetually, with its waters, all +her land, fertile and sterile, from Rosetta “to the tower of Seyne.” + + + + + CHAP. V. + +_Country south of the Elrei — High land of Cameroons — An extinct +Volcano — Chariot of the Gods — Old Cameroons — Jamoor and Malemba +rivers — Moöhnda or Danger river — Gaboon river — Nazareth, Liverpool, +Bristol, and Tawney rivers — Congo river — Rivers west of the Rio de +Formosa — Rio Lagos — Mory river — Country around it — Rio Volta — +Boosempra, Ancobra, and Assinee rivers — Mesurada river — Sierra Leone — +Way to explore Africa — Distances of places, how ascertained — How to +command Africa — Fernando Po, a sure stronghold — Sierra Leone, a +secondary place — A settlement inland of the greatest importance — +Extent of country it would command — French settlement in Africa — Wish +to extend their power in that quarter — Rivers, their great use in the +Torrid Zone — East coast of Africa, important for Commerce — Rivers +Zambezi and Zebee — Island of Socotora — Situation of Africa — Slavery — +The slave trade — Extent thereof — Slavery and superstition scourges of +Africa — How to benefit Africa — Colonization — Advantage of colonies — +The chief strength of Britain — Eagerly coveted by France — Our efforts +in Central Africa would civilize all Northern Africa — Must expect to +meet difficulties — Perseverance will ensure success._ + + +It is now time to turn our attention to the rivers south of the Elrei. +But first the high land of Cameroons demands our attention. This part of +the coast extends from the mouth of the Elrei to Cameroons river, about +45 miles in a north north-west bearing. The ridge comes close to the +sea. The nearest peak is a volcano, and is higher than the Peak of +Teneriffe. A third of its height is above the limits of vegetation, and +its top every morning _covered with snow_. Considering the latitude so +near the equator, the height, before snow and ice could appear, must +exceed 16,000 feet. Still farther inland, three other peaks are +discernible, each rising in height; for, seen from the sea, the most +distant appears of the same height as the nearest. In the clear +atmosphere of these latitudes, such mountains may be seen at a distance +of 200 miles. The face of these hills does not front the Bight of +Biafra, but fronts south south-east; as the view from old Cameroons +river clearly establishes. It is therefore almost certain, that this is +the termination of a mighty chain of mountains, which branch off from +the mountains of the Moon. It would be contrary to all the knowledge we +have of other parts of the globe, to suppose the mountains inland were +less high than those on the sea-coast. Such a chain must completely bar +the passage of any river from the northwards. This chain is distinctly +indicated in the maps constructed from the accounts of Arabian +geographers. The chain, no doubt, follows the course of the Bahr Kulla; +and thus shows how the Elrei and the Old Calabar rivers may have their +course in elevated lands, and their springs amidst their hills. It also +points out the deflection of the Niger to the west, as it descends from +the north, and approaches the western extremity of these mountains. What +we have noticed is a most extraordinary feature in African geography, +not paralleled, I believe, in any other part of this globe. + +There is the strongest reason to believe, that the high land which we +have been considering is the “Chariot of the Gods” of the ancients. +According to Hanno it was situated in a bay or gulf. The flame that +issued from it at night, he says, extended to the stars, and by day the +same tremendous appearance was maintained. Hence that navigator called +it the _Chariot of the Gods_. It is clear, that it was beyond, and +greatly beyond “Hesperus his Horn,” which Ptolemy places in 8° north +latitude, and 13° east longitude from Ferro. Whoever considers the +latter author with attention, will readily see, that, in the place we +are considering, he has placed his “Deorum Currus.” There is no part on +the coast of Africa which answers so accurately to the description given +by Hanno. The mountain is an extinct volcano, but which, in the days of +Hanno, might have been in full activity. Nothing is more probable. The +Bights of Benin and Biafra must have undergone great changes since that +early period. The Delta must be greatly increased, if not, in a great +measure, formed, during the space of 2390 years. The island of Fernando +Po also is evidently of volcanic origin. But it is foreign to my purpose +to enter at length into these subjects. + +Immediately south of this ridge, in 3° 40′, is Old Cameroons river, +about two miles broad. It is navigable upwards, for vessels drawing 18 +feet water. About 3° 20′ north latitude we have the great estuary of Old +Cameroons, or Jamoor, and Malemba rivers. The extreme breadth is 12 +miles. It communicates with Old Cameroons by Bimbia and other creeks. At +a short distance from the sea, is an island between the Jamoor and +Malemba rivers, on which the town of Cameroons is situated. The natives +say, that all these three rivers come from one parent stream in the +interior; but of whose source they are ignorant, as it was far distant. +Southward, the coast rises into a table land, extremely beautiful, and +very healthy. Passing Cape Claro, in 1° 10′ north latitude, we have +Moöhnda, or Danger River, a deep and powerful stream, navigable for +vessels of any burden. Its entrance is narrow and dangerous; but once +entered, it is quite safe. The island of Corisco (Thunder) is in its +mouth. Its banks abound with the finest timber for ship-building and +other purposes. Forty miles south, passing along a low swampy coast, +(almost a morass,) in latitude 0° 30′ north, is the entrance of the Rio +de Gaboon, 30 miles broad, but inwards contracted to 12 miles. 45 miles +from the sea, the river divides into two branches; the one streaching +north-east in a deep stream, till, according to the natives, it comes +from the Moöhnda. The other runs south-east, and about 60 miles upwards +is formed by several streams from the mountains. The sources of the +Moöhnda are said to be far into the interior, northward of east. +Southward of the Gaboon, the land is low, and the navigation of the +coast dangerous, by reason of currents in the sea. Northward of Cape +Lopez, we have Nazareth River, which has a bar, with only 12 feet water +at its mouth. It is a large and deep river, and navigable in the +interior. Such are the accounts given by the natives. Southward, and +round Cape Lopez, is Liverpool, Bristol, Tawney, and Cape Lopez rivers, +said to be considerable streams, and, with the Nazareth River, to come +from one river in the interior called Avongo, which, at a considerable +distance from the coast, is said to fall over an immense precipice. The +course, however, and sources of these rivers, are unknown, except that +they come from the eastward. Towards the mountains of the Moon they, no +doubt, have their rise, where the land is greatly elevated. South-west +of that ridge, the maps constructed from the authorities of the Arabs, +represent several rivers. It is a fact, and one worth attending to, that +from Old Cameroons river inclusive, the natives on the coast are wholly +unacquainted with Moors and Arabs, which shews they have no +communication with the northern interior countries; a circumstance which +could not have happened, had either the Niger or the Gir flowed to the +southward. + +From Cape Lopez to the mouth of the Congo, the land is hilly, and the +shore in many places bold. Few rivers of any magnitude enter the sea on +this part of the coast. The mountains seem to run parallel with the +coast. The mouth of the Congo is in nearly 6° south latitude. The voyage +of Tuckey has made us accurately acquainted with this stream in its +lower course. Its magnitude has been greatly exaggerated. At Fathomless +Point, the true mouth of the river, it is only three miles broad. The +depth, however, is about forty fathoms. Higher up, and approaching the +cataracts and rapids, it contracts to two miles, and even to one mile. +These cataracts are numerous. The rapids continue for a considerable +space, during which the river is frequently contracted to a very narrow +channel. The ridges, on either side, rise steep, bare, and barren. +Navigation is impracticable. The course is from N.E. Above the rapids +and rocks it expands to the breadth of three and four miles. This is +about 280 miles from its mouth. At this point Tuckey was forced to turn +back. The navigation upwards was said to be open. Ten days’ journey +above this, a large branch comes from the N.W. The great stream comes +from the N.E.; and, in all probability, rises on the S.E. side of the +Mountains of the Moon, in about 5° north latitude, and 31° or 33° east +longitude. According to the Portuguese, near Concabella is the junction +of several great rivers. A branch comes from the east, and one as large +as the Po comes from the south. The Congo begins to rise in September. +The flood is greatest in December. It begins to rise at the cataracts on +the first of September. This rise begins a month before the rains +commence in these parts. This is a convincing proof that its source is +north of the equator, and south of those hills which give birth to the +Nile, where the rains are greatest in August. From November to January +the rains are heaviest in the lower parts of the Congo. Comparatively +speaking, it may be said to be in perpetual flood. The reason is +obvious. Its chief sources lie in different hemispheres, with one branch +in the middle, between those extending eastward into the interior. The +consequence is, that the Congo receives supplies from the rains of both +Zones. The one beginning to swell it, before the flood from the other +ceases. These things are a complete proof that it is no part of the +Niger. Tuckey and his companions were surprised at the vast volume of +water in the Congo, both above and below the cataracts, compared to that +which rolled over them. They conceived the stream found subterraneous +passages, from the number of tremendous whirlpools in it. Proyart, in +his account of Loango, mentions some curious circumstances, which would +favour Tuckey’s supposition. All the rivers in Loango, he says, flow in +an equal stream in the dry and the rainy seasons. They suffer no +diminution. However deep the natives dig, neither tuffe nor stone is +found. A stratum of compact argile confines the waters to the interior +of the earth. In some places it is interrupted, where the water +undermines the surface, and often excavates large and deep abysses, +which open spontaneously during the rains. The inhabitants fly as far as +possible from these moving grounds. (_Proyart_, Pinkerton’s Coll. vol. +xvi. p. 550.) Loango is west of the cataracts of the Congo, and situate +beyond the chain of hills which run along its N.W. bank. Can the +phenomena mentioned by Proyart, be occasioned by the subterraneous +passages in the Congo, as supposed by Tuckey? + +If the Congo were the Niger, then the latter must pass south, in the +latitude of Benin, at the utmost not more than 300 miles east of the +high land of Cameroons: now a mighty chain of mountains is from the +coast seen to stretch two-thirds of this distance in that direction; and +all the country in the interior, we are informed, is exceedingly +mountainous. The vale, if I may use the expression, through which a +river of such magnitude as the Niger is, can flow, must be very broad. +Large streams would also join it from the west, as well as from the +east. Bearing this in mind, it is plain that if the Niger passed to the +Congo, no space of sufficient extent could remain between those +mountains and the sea, to yield those immense rivers which enter the sea +from Rio Lagos to Cape Lopez. The utmost extent of the course of any of +them could not exceed 200 miles. If the Niger continued to flow to the +Congo, after throwing off branches which form all the rivers in the +Delta of Benin, and southward to Cape Lopez, then, considering the +elevation which, in that case, the bed of the Niger behoved to have, +their streams would have the rapidity of torrents; whereas, in all but +the Old Calabar and Elrei river, it is the reverse. + +Westward of the Rio de Formosa, we have the Rio Lagos river, which a +branch from the Rio de Formosa joins at its mouth. The current is very +rapid during the flood; bearing down floating islands, and forcing +vessels from their anchorage, when in the roads. The chief stream comes +from the northward, and above its junction with the branch of the Niger +is said to be ten fathoms deep, and so broad, that when in the middle, +the banks on either hand, though covered with lofty trees, can scarcely +be discerned. This stream has different names, in different parts of its +course. Seven days’ journey N.E. of Ardrah, it passes under the name of +Azewoa. Six days’ journey N.E. of Yahndi, it passes S.E. under the name +of Mory. Four days’ journey northward of Yngwa, the Kontoorooa, one of +its branches, is found flowing S.E. half a mile broad, and near its +junction with the Kirhala, which is a larger stream. This latter river +is readily identified, as being that which travellers cross at twelve +days’ or eleven days’ journey distant from Kong, in their route to +Jinnë. The united stream of the Kontoorooa and Kirhala flows S.E., and +is undoubtedly the Lagos river, which flows through populous and +powerful countries and states. + +The Mory, or Lagos river, has been mistaken by Robertson for the Niger; +and, accordingly, he confounds the kingdoms and states on each, as if +these were around or upon the same river. Soko, in Ashantee, he has thus +put down as Sego, which place is 400 miles from Soko. The Mory river +must be of great magnitude. Descending from such stupendous mountains, +it must soon increase and become a very large stream. Six or seven days’ +journey north of Ardrah, travellers represent it as being six miles +broad. In length it must exceed 500 miles. Various accounts state that, +north of Dahomey, is a very large lake from which several rivers issue. +Robertson says it is 10 days’ journey N.E. of Agombe, the capital of +Dahomey. Bowditch says it is situated in Hio, 10 days’ journey north of +Dahomey; and Snelgrave and Barbot state that this lake lay between Gago +and Dauma (Dahomey) 370 miles N.N.E. of Ardrah, a distance much greater +than either of the two former authorities allow. There is little doubt, +however, but it is the same lake that each authority has in view. +Snelgrave and Barbot call it Guarde, and estimate its length at 100, and +its breadth at 50 leagues. In this, however, they may be deceived, from +estimating the days’ journey, the usual mode of calculation, at much +more than it really is. There is little doubt, however, but that it is +of considerable size, and its true position seems to be about 100 miles +to the northward of east from Dahomey. + +The countries to the west and north-west of Dahomey are represented as +very populous, abounding in provisions, and the people great traders. +Dagwumba, in particular, is a powerful state, and its capital, Yahndi, +of considerable magnitude, and a great emporium for trade. Still more to +the north-west, and amongst the Kong hills, are other powerful states. +To the northward of the chief range, according to Bowditch, is the +kingdom of Moozee; but, from other authorities, particularly Park, we +learn that Moozee is the capital of the great kingdom of Gotto. It is a +very common practice among negroes to place the capital for the kingdom +and the kingdom for the capital. Moosee lies in about 10° 20′ north +latitude, and 0° 45′ west longitude. + +The soil in the kingdom of Dahomey is composed of a deep, rich, reddish +clay, intermixed with sand, and scarcely containing a stone the size of +an egg throughout the whole country. This affords a clear proof of its +being low and level: it is very fertile. The surrounding countries +exhibit the same features. + +Westward of the Rio Lagos is the Rio Volta, a large, deep, and rapid +stream, which is increased by the junction of the Laka at no great +distance from the sea. The sources of both rivers we readily recognise +in the Adirri and Addifoosoo, which take their rise in the eastern parts +of the mountains of Kong, which are here so elevated as to be covered +with snow, and amongst which springs the chief branch of the Niger. The +Kirhala, and the Ba Nimma, also here take their rise. The mouth of the +Rio Volta, between the breakers, is a mile broad, and has three fathoms +water; sixty miles upward it is four fathoms deep. The stream flows +through fertile and populous districts; the natives hold it in great +veneration. Teak trees abound on its banks. The climate is fine, and the +country healthy. A branch from the Rio Lagos communicates with the Rio +Volta, in many places only divided by a sand-bank from the sea. All the +natives on this part of the coast are industrious, and great traders. +Many Arabic words are found mixed with their languages; several Arabian +customs remain. About Fidah the country is fertile and delightful. The +land rises gently from the sea, covered with lofty trees growing in +regular order, as if planted by human hands. + +Beyond Cape Three Points is the Boosempra, the Ancobra, and Assinee +rivers, the latter the largest, but all comparatively small streams. +Westward, as far as to the Mesurada, the rivers that enter the sea are +mere torrents, a proof of the shortness of their course, and also that +the river called “Zamma,” already mentioned, must be a branch of the +Niger. The coast here is all bold and high. Inland, the country is +exceedingly mountainous, rising in height and grandeur. Sierra Leone +(hitherto supposed to be the chariot of the gods of the ancients,) seems +to be the termination of the mighty chain which stretches north-east by +east, through those parts of Africa; and it is very curious, that this +chain appears to run exactly parallel to the grand chain of Mount Atlas. +Perhaps it stretches across the Continent to Egypt. + +Whether the Congo is the Niger or not—whether the latter flows to the +Egyptian Nile, and whether or not it terminates in a lake, swamps, or +sands in the interior, still the Bights of Biafra and Benin are the +points from whence to set out to ascertain and determine this important +point. A considerable portion of the journey, we know from the best +authority, can be travelled by a water conveyance. The whole distance +cannot much exceed 300 miles, till the point would be determined. The +nations and people on the route are comparatively peaceable, civilized, +and friendly to Europeans. At old Calabar, different European languages +are understood. The English language is spoken, and taught, and read, +and written. They keep regular mercantile accounts in our language; +hence good guides could be procured. In any other route from the west, +from the north, or from the east, into the interior, the path is through +dreadful barren deserts, countries wild and rugged, and men fierce and +rude, and by religion the most inveterate enemies to the Christian name. +The distance also, by any one of these routes, to be travelled before +the points alluded to could be decidedly determined, is about 2500 +miles. It is not difficult, therefore, to determine the route which +should be chosen. + +Coomassie in the south, Mourzook in the north, and Cobbè in the east of +Africa, are points accurately ascertained. Timbuctoo, in the centre, is +tolerably well known. It is satisfactory that, taking the bearings, and +calculating the distances on these by the most accurate scale, as all +these are given by authorities wholly unknown to, and unconnected with +each other, the positions of places and rivers agree with a remarkable +degree of accuracy. In this manner the map which accompanies this work +was constructed. + +Agadez, according to Leo and Joannes Bleav, is about 160 leagues distant +from Cano. This corresponds very nearly indeed with the position where +it is placed according to the accounts obtained by Ritchie and Bowditch. +From Cashna to Zegzeg, according to Leo, is 150 miles, which will fix +the position of the latter place about 100 miles north-east by north of +the Niger at the point where Sidi Hamed crossed the great ridge. The +mountainous nature of Zegzeg, mentioned by Leo, is thus supported by the +testimony of Sidi Hamed. From Cashna, westward to Gonjah, (Kong, or +districts near it,) according to Shereef Imhammed, is 97 days’ journey, +which, from the nature of the country passed through, and the route +taken, will agree with sufficient accuracy with the position of Kong, as +placed by the information given to Bowditch. From Gonjah, or Kong, to +the sea coast, through Tonouah, is 46 days’ journey according to Shereef +Imhammed. This will be found to agree very nearly with the accounts +obtained by Bowditch. Kashna is stated to be east of Timbuctoo 690 +miles, and west of Bornou 650 miles. (_Rees’ Encyc._) Both these +distances will be found to agree well with the position of Kashna, as +obtained from Bowditch and others. Park’s guide, Amadou Fatouma, told +him that from Sansanding to Kashna was a journey of 60 days or two +months. Much of this journey was by water, and consequently more +expeditious than by land. + +From Cubcabea in Darfur, by Wara in Dar Saley, to Bornou, according to +Browne, was a journey of 60 days. According to Ledyard, the distance +from Mourzook to Bornou is 660 geographical miles. According to +Burkhardt it is 50 days’ journey, (by others 52,) which, at an average +of 13 miles per day, is 650 miles. From Mourzook to Agadez, according to +Ledyard, is 479 geographical miles: from other authorities it is 47 +days’ journey, and 17 days’ journey additional to Kashna, which is +nearly south of Mourzook. From Tripoli to Timbuctoo, according to +Ritchie, is a journey of 80 days. The two places are 1260 geographical +miles distant from each other. This would give an average of 15½ miles +for each day’s journey, which, being through an open country, exceeds +considerably what can be made good in one day in the woody and +mountainous districts. + +South of the Niger we will find the reckonings equally exact. From +Coomassie to Yahndi is 24 days’ journey. This will place Yahndi in north +latitude 8° 38′, and 0° 55′ east longitude. From Yahndi to Yaoora is 42 +days’ journey, and the same distance to the point where the Niger is +crossed in the route to the city of Houssa. From Inta to Timbuctoo is 41 +days’ journey; from Coomassie to Kong is 24 days’ journey, and thence to +Jinnë is 42 days’ journey, according to the accounts which Bowditch +obtained from different authorities. From Elmina, on the Gold Coast, to +Oenessy, on the river Ingaee, (evidently the Niger at Jinnë or Lake +Dibbie,) by a route through Buntakoo, Inta, Oalla, &c. is, according to +Robertson, (p. 180,) 60 days’ journey. Calculating the day’s journey at +10 geographical miles made good south of the Niger, and 13 miles, (12 to +13 is the number allowed by _Browne_, p. 448,) upon an average, in the +cultivated countries north of the Niger, the reader will perceive how +nearly different authorities, wholly unconnected with each other, are +made to agree; a proof of the general accuracy, and also that the proper +scale for estimating these days journey has been followed. + +To explore Central Africa to its deepest recesses—to acquire the command +and control over the whole of its trade, we require only two great +stations: first, an insular one near the grand estuary of the Niger; +second, as the river has several navigable estuaries, another station in +the interior is necessary, either where the stream divides or unites, as +may be found most eligible or most healthy. With these we command the +whole trade of Northern Africa, from the source of the Senegal to +Darfur, and from Bornou to Benin. A third station, at the Rio Lagos, +would give us the command of the trade into the deepest recesses of the +Kong mountains. If ships cannot navigate to all these more distant +parts, we know that boats, and vessels of a magnitude sufficient to +render the conveyance of goods cheap, expeditious, and easy, can and do. +Steam-boats could navigate to the most distant parts—to Balia, to +Bornou, and Dar Saley. Ten, twelve, fifteen, or twenty days, would serve +to reach Timbuctoo, and the most distant parts from our interior +settlement. Steam would impel them upwards; the current would bring them +down without any expense of fuel. Coals could be carried out cheap; wood +can be had in abundance. Who can calculate the advantages that would +result from such an intercourse? + +The Island of Fernando Po is the insular station which nature points +out, I may say that she has planted, for that important end. This island +is about forty miles distant from the mouth of Bannee River—the same +distance from the estuary of Cross and Elrei rivers—scarcely farther +removed from Cameroons and Malemba rivers, and about 200 and 220 miles +from the Moöhnda and Rio de Gaboon, thus commanding the entrance of all +these rivers, if they proceed from the Niger, or whether they proceed +from the Niger or not. Even if the Niger flowed to the Congo, after +throwing off all the rivers mentioned—even though the Gir were a +separate stream, and besides throwing off the rivers south of the high +land of Cameroons, it continued its course to the Congo, then the value +of Fernando Po would by this be greatly enhanced; because, besides an +entrance into Northern Africa, we should command an entrance into +Southern Africa also, as the Congo is not navigable near its mouth by +reason of cataracts. The Island of Fernando Po has been successively +abandoned by the Dutch, Portuguese, and Spaniards, and the title to it +could thus readily be acquired. The land is very high, and therefore +healthy. It is 36 miles long, and 15 broad, and could be made very +productive. On each side it has fine and safe anchorage; the inhabitants +are warlike, but their subjugation would be an easy task. Prince’s +Island, 110 miles south-west, is a fine soil and climate, and might also +be taken possession of, to prevent any other European nation from +annoying us. St. Thomas’s, under the equator, is very unhealthy, and +both it and Annabon is too distant from the coast to render them of such +importance as the former two. + +The reason why an insular situation is necessary is obvious: it would be +healthier than the low lands on the coast of the continent. It could be +kept and protected by a naval power, at much less expense than a +settlement on the coast of the mainland. It would prove a station which +would equally command every approach, while it would prove an +impregnable bulwark in the hands of the Mistress of the Ocean, from +whence our internal establishment could always be supplied, and to which +it could look for succour and effectual assistance in case of any +emergency. + +Fernando Po is, of all places, the best, and, it may be added, the only +proper station on the African coast, for our cruizers to watch and cut +up the slave trade, which is, and while it continues, will always be, +greatest on the coast opposite. Our naval officers know, and are well +convinced of this. Sierra Leone is near 1600 miles from this island, and +from the prevailing winds, vessels from the Bights of Benin and Biafra, +where the greatest number of captures are made, are forced to beat all +the way to Sierra Leone, which renders the passage exceedingly tedious. +As the vessels now employed in the slave trade are small, and built to +sail fast, that they may elude our cruizers, and being thus exceedingly +crowded, the length of the passage to Sierra Leone proves fatal to many +of the slaves. Sierra Leone is also the most unhealthy spot on the whole +western coast of Africa, and, from its situation, must remain so. It is +a grave for Europeans; and whoever turns his eye to the map, will +readily perceive that it is the worst chosen station on all the coast of +Africa for an extensive political or commercial establishment. From the +nature of the country behind this settlement, it is obvious it can have +no communication with the interior but by land carriage, and this, from +the mountainous nature of the country, is almost impracticable. It has +nothing in it or about it that ever can give it an ascendancy in Africa, +and an establishment on the Niger and Fernando Po would soon shew its +insignificance. + +But, while possession of Fernando Po would, in time of war, completely +command all the grand outlets of Central Africa, and place whatever +European settlements were therein planted, completely at the mercy of +Great Britain, still the possession of that island alone, would neither +give us the monopoly of the trade to those parts, nor prevent other +European nations from sharing in that trade with us in time of peace. A +commanding station, however, inland on any spot which could controul the +united stream, would give to this nation the complete monopoly and every +advantage. Without this, Fernando Po would only become valuable to Great +Britain when war occurred betwixt her and any European power which had +settlements in the interior. Without such a controuling settlement also, +in the interior, the trade from Great Britain to those Central parts of +Africa, laid open by these rivers, had much better, as more convenient +and less expensive, be carried on direct from any port in Great Britain, +to Timbuctoo, &c. (should the Niger prove navigable for ships) than to +have the goods landed, and afterwards reshipped at Fernando Po. This +island may be of great use as a depot, till the point for forming a +settlement in the interior is finally pitched upon, and rendered secure +against any attack. In choosing the position for this settlement, care +must be taken not only to take into consideration the security and +advantage for the present moment, but those great advantages and +important results which may be fairly anticipated for the future. + +Granting that the navigation of the Niger was interrupted at Boussa, by +reason of rapids or rocks rising amidst the stream; still, we know that +the river can be navigated in safety from Boussa upwards, and from +Boussa downwards. Therefore, on this commanding spot, let the British +standard be firmly planted, and no power on Africa could tear it up. A +trifling land carriage would then give this nation nearly all the +advantages of an open navigation, and by such a natural barrier, place +the Niger completely under her controul. Firmly planted in Central +Africa, the British flag would become the rallying point for all that is +honourable, useful, beneficial, just, and good. Under the mighty shade +thereof, the nations would seek security, comfort, and repose. Allies +Great Britain would find in abundance. They would flock to her +settlement, if it had the power and the means to protect them. The +resources of Africa, and the energies of Africa, under a wise and +vigorous policy, may be made to subdue and controul Africa. Let Britain +only form such a settlement, and give it that countenance, support, and +protection, which the wisdom and energy of British Councils can give, +and which the power and resources of the British empire can so well +maintain, and Central Africa to future ages will remain a grateful and +obedient dependency of this empire. The latter will become the centre of +all the wealth, and the focus of all the industry of the former. Then +the Niger, like the Ganges, would acknowledge Great Britain as its +protector—our King as its Lord. + +The extent of country and population whose improvements, labours, and +wants would be dependent upon, and stimulated to exertions by, a +settlement on the Niger, is prodigious, and all together unequalled. The +extent compromises a country of nearly 40° of longitude, from W. to E., +and through the greater part of this extent of 20° latitude, from N. to +S., a space almost equal to Europe. Where the confluence of the Gir, or +the Bahr Kulla with the Niger takes place, is the spot to erect the +Capital of our great African establishments. A city built there, under +the protecting wings of Great Britain, and extended, enriched, and +embellished by the industry, skill, and spirit of her sons, would ere +long become the capital of Africa. Fifty millions of people, yea, even a +greater number, would be dependent on it. + +Whoever turns his eyes to the map, must at one glance perceive that this +is a kingdom—a colony—a trade in which no foreign power whatever could +come into competition with us, or endanger its stability and prosperity. +Insurmountable barriers oppose on every side. On the north and on the +east deserts intervene, across which all attempts at mercantile +competition must be fruitless, and where no hostile armies in any force +can find their way. From the west, south-west, and south-east, +impenetrable mountains (for I may say these are so for any purposes of +trade or attempt at invasion) arise, insuperable barriers. By the +majestic stream of the Niger an entrance can only be obtained. The +Mistress of the Ocean may place a barrier there, which she, and she +only, can shut and open at her pleasure. The rival which can approach +nearest, must do so by means of the Senegal. But this stream ceases to +be navigable above Galam. Thence to the Niger is nearly 200 miles, +across such mountains, and through such forests, as may be considered +impassable for any army of strength, or for any mercantile speculation +which could alarm or shake the prosperity of the settlements eastward on +the Niger. + +The French nation have long looked towards Africa with an anxious and a +longing eye, in order to repair the losses which revolution and war have +occasioned in their colonial establishments. France is making every +effort to explore and collect information concerning the interior parts +of the northern division of that Continent. She is already established +on the Senegal, and commands that river; and if the supineness and +carelessness of Great Britain allow that powerful, enterprising, and +ambitious rival to step before us and fix herself securely on the lower +Niger, then it is evident, that with such a settlement in addition to +her command of the Senegal, France will command all Northern Africa. The +consequences cannot fail to be fatal to the best interests of this +country, and by means surer than even by war or conquest, tend +ultimately to bring ruin on our best Tropical Colonial establishments. +She will then meet this country with a decided superiority in every +market, not only with all colonial productions at present known, but +also with others peculiar to Africa, and as yet, little known in Europe. + +The rivers are the roads in the Torrid Zone. Nature seems to have +intended these as the great help in introducing agriculture and +commerce. Wherever the continents are most extensive, there we find the +most magnificent rivers flowing through them, opening up a communication +from side to side. What is still more remarkable, and becomes of great +utility, is, that these mighty currents flow against the prevailing +winds, thus rendering the navigation easy, which would otherwise be +extremely tedious and difficult. This is the case with the great Maranon +and Oronoco in South America. The prevailing trade winds blow right up +their streams. This is the case with the Niger, and in a more particular +manner during the time it is in flood. For ten months in the year, but +more particularly from May till November, the prevailing wind in the +Bights of Benin and Biafra is from south-west, thus blowing right up all +the outlets of the Niger. January and February are the months during +which the Harmattan wind blows, a dry wind coming from the north-east, +and from the great deserts south of the Mediterranean. In the Congo, +Tuckey found the breeze generally blowing up the stream. It is needless +to point out, at length, the advantages which may be derived from this +wise regulation in the natural world. The meanest capacity may +comprehend these. + +But it is not the west coasts and interior of Northern Africa only that +afford eligible situations for settlements, and a wide field for +profitable commerce. The east coasts afford ample range for both. From +the Cape of Good Hope, but more particularly from Caffraria to Cosseir +on the Red Sea, there are rich and ample fields. These were the mines of +wealth for the ancient world, and from whence the Phenicians, Tyre and +Zidon drew their golden stores. By political events, cut off for ages +from the civilized portions of the earth, these countries have become +sunk in ignorance and barbarity, and their capabilities remain neglected +and unknown. But the materials remain. And could Tyre and Zidon—cities +on the Mediterranean in the earliest periods of history, while knowledge +was limited to what it is now—do what Great Britain cannot? Certainly +not. We have more than they ever had within our power. Immense rivers +flow on the east coast of Africa. The Zambezi, or, as it is called at +its mouth, Quilimanca, enters the sea in about 18° south latitude, and +by five different mouths, forming so many Deltas. Far into the interior, +and before it divides into branches, it is a league broad. It inundates +the country in April, a proof that its sources are towards the Southern +Tropic. The country up this river, and its tributary streams, is very +rich in metals and minerals, as it is also towards the south about +Sofala, so famous for its gold mines. Northwards are other important +rivers, particularly the Zebee. But the grand station in these parts is +the Island of Socotora, to the east of Cape Guardafui. In the hands of a +naval power, such as Great Britain, this shuts up the Red Sea most +completely, and gives us the command of Western Arabia, and all the +inlets into Abyssinia and Nubia. The coasts of Africa opposite, are the +lands so famed in ancient times for myrrh and incense. It brings us into +immediate contact with, and in fact enables us to command, the fertile +kingdom of Aden on the Arabian coast, so famous for its spices. +Possession of this island would enable us to shut and open the Red Sea +at our pleasure, in all the trade from the East Indies, or indeed from +any part. A small exertion might get from the Turks Massouah, and +Suakim, and Cosseir, ports on the west coast of the Red Sea. These +places are of no use to them, but would be most valuable to us. + +Unfold the map of the world. We command the Ganges—fortified at Bombay, +the Indus is our own. Possessed of the islands in the mouth of the +Persian Gulf, we command the outlets of Persia, and the mouths of the +Euphrates, and consequently of countries the cradle of the human race. +We command at the Cape of Good Hope; Gibraltar and Malta belonging to +us, we controul the Mediterranean. Let us plant the British standard on +the Island of Socotora—upon the Island of Fernando Po—and inland upon +the banks of the Niger, and then we may say Asia and Africa—for all +their productions and all their wants—are under our controul. It is in +our power. Nothing can prevent us. A tenth part of the sum which our +merchants and manufacturers have lost in overstocking old markets, would +have been sufficient to fix us securely in Africa, and to have developed +completely all the mercantile stores which she possesses, and the +improvements of which she is susceptible. + +To benefit Africa, and make Africa a benefit to Europe, we must know and +consider the evils she suffers, and the wrongs she inflicts on herself. +In every part of Africa her population, whether Moors, Arabs, Negroes, +or the mixed race descended from these, is divided into innumerable +petty states, who are engaged in constant quarrels and warfare with each +other. Wherever we find more powerful states in Africa, there the +ignorant sovereign rules over his trembling subjects by the terrors of +superstition and the sword. Life, liberty, and property, are +consequently every where insecure. Slavery exists universally, and the +slave trade is prevalent every where. The elements of human society are +dreadfully disjointed. Nevertheless, the nations in central Africa, I +mean its northern part, are not savages. They are barbarians, and some +less rude than others. Every where we find them collected into cities, +cultivating the land, and carrying on commerce, which, though rude when +compared to civilized nations, yet clearly distinguishes their condition +from that of the savage state. Here, the fiery zeal and hard yoke of the +Arab has done some good. Wherever their influence extended, cannibalism +and human sacrifices, so prevalent on the coasts of Guinea, and +countries bordering on it, were abolished. The days, however, of Arabian +grandeur and greatness are fled. Their power in Africa is decaying fast. +The governments on the southern boundaries of the Zahaara, and in the +north-east parts of Sudan, exhibit the strangest compound of arrogance +and weakness, pride and imbecility, despotism and ignorance, barbarity +and folly, that are to be met with on the face of the earth. + +Yet the materials for a better order of things exist both amongst them +and the Negro population. The power that could curb the lawlessness of +the one, and enlighten the ignorance of the other, would soon make them +useful. Were it not that the power of the Arabs is so much decayed in +better countries, the population of Africa to the Gold Coast had at this +day acknowledged Mecca as their temple, and Mahomet as the prophet of +God. Decayed as their power is, still they are more than a match for the +timid and indolent Negro, whose lands are invaded and plundered by these +marauding bands. The Mahommedan religion teaches its votaries that it is +a deed meriting paradise to convert, by any means, an infidel to the +true faith. To accomplish this, the Negro is loaded with chains. +Enthusiasm and interest goad on the Arab and Moor. Large caravans seek +Sudan from every quarter, and barter the commonest merchandize for men. +Into Morocco, the Barbary States along the Mediterranean, Egypt, Nubia, +Abyssinia, across the Red Sea into Arabia and other countries, from +60,000 to 70,000 slaves are carried annually. Since the abolition of +Christian slavery in the Barbary States, this traffic in Negro slaves is +greatly increased. The miseries the slaves endure marching across the +deserts, sinks the middle passage of the European slave trade into +insignificance. + +There is no efficient way to arrest the progress of this deep-rooted +evil, but to teach the Negroes useful knowledge, and the arts of +civilized life. Left to themselves, the Negroes will never effectually +accomplish this. It must be done by a mighty power, who will take them +under its protection— a power sufficiently bold, enlightened and just, +to burst asunder the chains of that grovelling superstition, which +enthrals and debases their minds, and that, with the voice of authority, +can unite the present jarring elements which exist in Africa, and direct +them to honourable and useful pursuits. A small portion of European +knowledge and spirit would be sufficient to rouse the Negro to assert +his independence, and drive back, with shame and disgrace, any force +which either the Moors or the Arabs could send against him. Till this is +done— till the native princes are taught that they may be rich without +selling men—and till Africa is shown, that it is in the labour and +industry of her population, and in the cultivation of her soil, that +true wealth consists—and till that population see a power which can +protect them from such degrading bondage, there can be no security for +liberty or property in Africa; and, consequently, no wish or hope for +improvement amongst her population. Slavery, and a slave trade, existed +in all their virulence many centuries before Europeans had any knowledge +of Western and of Southern Africa. Were the European abolition rendered +ever so effectual— were all the traffic with the other places previously +enumerated completely abolished, still this would scarcely dry up one +tear that flows to swell the tide of African misery. Millions are still +slaves—slaves to slaves in Africa. It is in Africa, therefore, that this +evil must be rooted out—by African hands and African exertions chiefly +that it can be destroyed. It is a waste of time and a waste of means, an +aggravation of the disorder, to keep lopping off the smaller branches of +a malignant, a vigorous and reproductive plant, while the root and stem +remain uninjured, carefully supplied with nourishment, and beyond our +reach. Half the sums we have expended in this manner, would have planted +us firmly in Interior Africa, and rooted up slavery for ever. Only teach +them and shew them that we will give them more for their produce than +for the hand that rears it, and the work is done. All other methods and +means will prove ineffectual. + +It is the policy of the Moors and Arabs to keep Christians, in any +numbers, from penetrating into the interior of Africa. Fanaticism and +interest make them oppose all such attempts. This jealousy is heightened +by superstitious fears; for there runs a tradition amongst all the +Mahommedans in Africa, that the Christians are one day to wrest the +country from them. The Negro States on the south of Africa act with +similar policy, and for similar reasons. They do every thing they can to +hinder Europeans from having communication with the nations in the +interior. They want a monopoly of every trade carried on with the +interior; and all these people are convinced, that if ever Europeans can +find their way into the interior, their monopoly, and all their power +and influence, are gone. It is evident, therefore, that till all these +barriers which stand in the way of African improvement are broken down +and destroyed, no great progress will ever be made in civilizing Africa, +or of rendering that continent serviceable to her inhabitants, or to the +rest of the world. Protection and conquest, permanent and commanding, +can only accomplish the object. Not that conquest, which, springing from +unprincipled ambition, overruns to destroy, but that conquest which +subdues and controls to restrain evil, and establishes what is good. +This once civilized a part of Africa—this only can accomplish such a +work again. + +While the first and determined effort must be made to put down every +foreign slave trade with, or in the interior of Africa, it may be a +question, how far it would be politic and safe to intermeddle with the +internal slavery there existing, except to ameliorate it. This, as in +Russia, exists to an enormous extent. The number of slaves in Africa is +about three-fourths of her population. But we must not grasp at too much +at first. We must get their chiefs to go along with us at the outset. +This, it is possible, we might not effect with that cordiality which is +necessary, should we require all their slaves to be made free at once. +In Africa there is no such a thing as a freeman hiring himself to +labour; it is all done by slaves; consequently, without them no labour +could be carried on. Also, we must create the labour in which freemen +could be employed. With the present internal establishments, therefore, +it might be prudent not to interfere further than to see strict justice +maintained to all in their relative situations, till time prepared their +minds for the change, and till a general system of industry, and influx +of wealth from labour, enabled the freemen and their chiefs to +emancipate their slaves, without reducing themselves to beggary and +want: In short, till the one could procure labour to earn his +subsistence, and the other free labourers to keep up his former rank and +independence. But while we did not interfere too rashly in these +internal regulations, so as to bring unnecessary difficulties on our +hands, and which might blast our future prospects, still it must never +be forgotten, that no time and no opportunity ought to be lost in making +freedom universal in Africa; and every exertion must be made, in every +way and at all times, by precept and by example, to prepare the minds of +the one part of the population in Africa to give, and the other to +receive it. We must instruct this to be done; and, above all, we must +counsel and direct all external traffic in slaves to cease. With that +there can and must be no compromise, if we wish to benefit Africa. But +let these instructions and commands be issued and carried into effect in +the spirit of moderation, conciliation, and peace—by that spirit which, +placing ourselves in the situation of our neighbour, would do as it +wishes to be done by; and with this, our object cannot fail, in time, of +complete success. We must be the sole arbiter and director in this part +of Africa; and therefore our intentions must be honest, our actions +just, and our sentence irrevocable. + +In establishing such a colony in Africa, we must not, as in the case of +America and New Holland, go with a few unarmed settlers, as amidst a few +straggling savages. We must go with a force that will command respect +and obedience, and be able to resent and punish every aggression made, +or insult offered. A force less than the garrison of Gibraltar would +command all the interior of Northern Africa; and a few Congreve rockets +would serve to disperse and reduce the most numerous armies that the +most powerful sovereigns in these parts could arm against us. Europeans, +indeed, could not undergo in these climates the same fatigues as the +natives; but the superiority of the former in knowledge and skill would +compensate for the mere physical superiority of the latter. The opinion +universally entertained of European superiority, would, of itself, +judiciously applied, half conquer Africa. Besides, we could levy and +organize a force, to any extent judged prudent, amongst these natives, +to aid in the control and command of the country. We have done this in +India, and why cannot we do it in Africa? Nay, we might make India +subdue Northern Africa;—the Ganges the mighty engine which would give us +the command of the Niger. From the banks of the former we could obtain a +voluntary force, which would enable us to dictate to the latter. By +these means we should make India the means of preparing for us an empire +of equal importance to replace her strength, when that, in course of +political changes, is withdrawn from our allegiance. Once established on +the Niger, the work is done. The resources and energies of Africa would +complete the object. There are many of the people, both Moors, Arabs, +and Negroes, who, though they could not be made agriculturists, +followers of commerce and manufactures, would yet make good soldiers; +and, commanded by European officers, would, with a small proportion of +European troops, be equal to every purpose. The preservation of the +health of European troops in warm climates, is now better understood +than formerly, and in the interior of Africa there are numerous healthy +situations. + +There is but one opinion amongst all those who are, or who have had an +opportunity of being acquainted with Africa, her population, and present +institutions, namely, that colonization, fixed and stable, can only +render her any permanent benefit. The mere abolition of the external +slave trade, they all agree, will do little or nothing for the welfare +of Africa. Governor Ludlam, than whom no person better understood the +African character, or interests of Africa, goes even a step farther. “To +abolish the slave trade,” says he, “is not to abolish the violent +passions which now find vent in that particular direction. Were it to +cease, the misery of Africa would arise from other causes; but it does +not follow that Africa would be less miserable: she might even be less +miserable, and yet be savage and uncivilized. The abolition of the +external slave trade does not actually set us forward one step in our +course to civilize or benefit Africa. Nay,” says he, “where they have +been in some measure improved, I rather think they will sink back into +their former state, which is still the state of the natives two or three +hundred miles inland (from Sierra Leone.) In the next place, the +administration of every African government must become extremely severe, +if not extremely bloody. When so effectual a punishment as slavery is +done away, which yet, as it sheds no blood, is readily executed on petty +criminals, and in doubtful cases, severe punishments, and more terrible +examples, must be introduced. Every ancient institution, the power of +every hereditary chief, must now be sustained by blood instead of +slavery. While the punishment of many small crimes has, by means of the +external slave trade, been raised into slavery, it is not less true, +that the punishment of some great ones has been sunk into it. The +abolition, therefore, will be of little benefit to Africa, unless plans +for its improvement and civilization be vigorously acted upon. That +civilization will follow conquest, I readily allow;” and, adds he, +“there will be no question that the French will diligently endeavour to +extend their influence in Africa by all possible means, and as +diligently endeavour to drive us out of it.” (_Letter to Zach. Macauly, +Esq. Sierra Leone, April_ 14, 1807.) + +This was the opinion of one intimately acquainted with the west coast. +Every passing day has served to confirm his opinions, formed from actual +observation. Let us attend to the observations and opinions of another +intelligent observer, made in Eastern Africa, namely Burkhardt. Page +344, he says, “Were all the outlets to Sudan closed to the slave trade, +and the caravans which carry on the traffic with Barbary, Egypt, and +Arabia, prevented from procuring farther supplies, still slavery would +universally prevail in Sudan itself; for as long as these countries are +possessed by Mussulmans, whose religion induces them to make war upon +the idolatrous Negroes, whose domestic wants require a constant supply +of servants and shepherds, and who, considering slaves as a medium of +exchange in lieu of money, are as eager to obtain them as other nations +would be to explore the African mines, slavery must continue to exist in +the heart of Africa; nor can it cease, until the Negroes shall become +possessed of the means of repelling the attacks, and resisting the +oppression of their Mussulmen neighbours. It is not from foreign nations +that the Blacks can obtain deliverance; this great work must be effected +by themselves, and can be the result only of successful resistance. The +European governments who have settlements on the coasts of Africa, may +contribute to it by commerce, and by the introduction among the Negroes +of arts and industry, which must ultimately lead them to a superiority +over the Mussulmans in war. Europe, therefore, will have done but little +for the Blacks, if the abolition of the Atlantic slave trade, _which is +trifling_ when compared with the slavery of the interior, is not +followed up by some wise and grand plan, tending to the civilization of +the continent.” + +Colonization, permanent and powerful, is this “wise and grand plan.” +Established in the heart of Africa, Great Britain would be the arbiter +of Africa. Her precept, and example, and assistance, would serve to +teach and enable every Negro potentate to repel all foreign aggression, +and the beneficial tendency of employing their present slave population +in cultivating their own kingdoms. This would procure them wealth. +Wealth would induce them to seek security, and enable them to obtain the +means of protecting themselves from external injury; or, where they +could not of themselves accomplish this object, bring them to place +themselves under the wings of the power which could do so. On this grand +and wise principle, colonization and cultivation were the first +settlements of the Portuguese established in Africa. The beneficial +results soon became most extensive and apparent, even after the +attention of that power was unfortunately withdrawn to another quarter +of the world. The number, and extent, and prosperity, of their +settlements in Africa are well known. Unfortunately, however, for +Portugal, and still more unfortunately for Africa, the spirit, strength, +and influence of Portugal received a check in Europe, and the discovery +of, and desire for cultivating America attracted her attention, withdrew +her affections and care from these settlements in Africa; and not only +so, but by a most erroneous policy, and barbarous system, induced her to +withdraw the strength of Africa to cultivate the fields of America. In +this manner her extensive colonies in the former were lost, or became +only points for carrying on the slave trade; and all the good she had +done, and might have done to Africa and to herself, was lost and +disregarded. What she might have done, and what every European power has +so long neglected, it is now in our power, under more favourable +circumstances, to set about and accomplish. + +There is, and can be but one opinion about the policy of extending our +connections political and commercial with Africa. In the manner pointed +out, these can only be permanently and beneficially extended. It must +cost some expense, but the result will repay it. It is to her colonial +system that Great Britain is indebted for her greatness and her glory. +It is these possessions which enabled her to resist and beat down +beneath her feet, the world united against her. It is her colonial trade +that gives her sailors, acquainted with every coast, and inured to every +climate. The whole trade of Northern Africa would augment more than +others the number of these most useful subjects. Nor is it merely the +number employed in that trade which such an intercourse would give her. +The command of African produce would give her the trade to other +quarters of the world, and by so much more, add to the numbers of her +seamen. These would man her fleets with determined hands on every +emergency. On these things depend the preponderance of Britain in the +councils and affairs of Europe. If neglected, that preponderance is +gone, and our existence, as a nation, is endangered. Our formidable +rival France, understands this well. She has learned it by experience. +Had the counsels of Talleyrand been followed by her Government, the +fatal disasters which befel France had never happened, nor the glory and +power of Britain been so raised and extended. To procure and rear up +colonies, was at all times the earnest recommendation to his countrymen, +of this crafty but wise politician. He placed Britain before their eyes +as a most striking example of what such possessions did do, and could +enable her to perform. + +In his valuable pamphlet, written during the French Consulate, for the +purpose mentioned, he says of Britain. “Her navy and her commerce are at +present all her trust. France may add Italy and Germany to her dominions +with less detriment to Britain than will follow the acquisition of a +navy, and the extension of her trade. Whatever gives colonies to France, +supplies her with ships, sailors, manufactures, and husbandmen. +Victories by land can only give her mutinous subjects; who, instead of +augmenting the national force by their riches or numbers, contribute +only to disperse and enfeeble that force; but the growth of colonies +supplies her with zealous citizens, and the increase of real wealth, and +increase of effective numbers, is the certain consequence.” + +“What would Germany, Italy, Spain, and France, combining their strength, +do against England? They might assemble in millions on the shores of the +Channel, but _there_ would be the limits of their enmity. Without ships +to carry them over, without experienced mariners to navigate these +ships, Britain would only deride the pompous preparation. The moment we +leave the shore, her fleets are ready to pounce upon us, to disperse and +destroy our ineffectual armaments. There lies her security; in her +insular situation and her navy consist her impregnable defence. Her navy +is, in every respect, the offspring of her trade. To rob her of that, +therefore, _is to beat down her last wall, and to fill up her last +moat_. To gain it to ourselves, is to enable us to take advantage of her +deserted and defenceless borders, and to complete the humiliation of our +only remaining competitor.” These are great and serious truths, which +every British statesman, and indeed every Briton should engrave on their +memories. France will always consider us as her competitor; and she +will, accordingly, pursue the plans which can only render her successful +against our independence and prosperity. This, Britain ought carefully +to remember. + +The change contemplated in Africa could not be wrought in a day. But +were we once firmly established, in a commanding attitude, on the Niger, +and an end put to the two great scourges of Africa, superstition and an +external slave trade, the progress of improvement would be rapid, and +the advantages great. Commanding the Niger, none could interfere with +us. The Arab and the Moor would no longer be tempted, by gain from +traffic, to brave the dangers of the great Zahaara; and, if from +ambition or love of plunder they did so, then meeting a foe which could +effectually oppose them, they would not venture to repeat their +incursions and attacks. Thus cut off from the means of obtaining slaves +from the interior of Africa to labour for them, as they are now debarred +from enslaving Christians, they would be compelled to labour—compelled +to follow the example of civilized nations—compelled, in a word, to +become civilized also. Nor would the consequences stop here. Those +fierce hordes, rendered savage by the hardships they endure, and who +frequent the great Zahaara to plunder the traveller and the merchant, +and who are tempted with the hopes of wealth to lead such unsettled +lives, finding this trade no longer carried on by these routes, would be +compelled to emerge from their burning wastes, seek more habitable +spots, and thus come more within the power of civilized man. The +accomplishment and carrying into effect the object and measures I have +endeavoured to point out, would not only civilize Southern and Central +Africa, but all the northern and eastern parts thereof; and is, perhaps, +the only way by which it can be done, except by the conquest of all +those countries by some formidable European power, which, even if one +capable of doing that could be found, the jealousies of the other powers +would oppose and prevent. But the same reason does not apply to +controlling the Southern and Central parts of Africa, because that does +not immediately threaten the independence, repose, or interests of any +European power. + +But it will, and may very justly be asked, what right have we, or any +other European nation, to go and fix ourselves in Africa, conquer and +controul the native powers, levy taxes, and make them our subjects? The +answer is plain; we have no such right, nor is any such right here +claimed or advocated. In every thing that has been stated, or that may +yet be stated, in the prosecution of this subject, I have viewed matters +prospectively, and considered our connection with Africa and our empire +there, as extensively and permanently formed. But there is not the +smallest idea of wishing to recommend that we should, or hope expressed +that we would, enter Africa with the sword drawn to accomplish these +objects. Quite the contrary. Fernando Po we may take possession of with +the permission of the Portuguese, (should that be deemed necessary to +ask,) without invading or violating, in the slightest degree, any right +of the natives, or those of any native power in Africa. For the +settlement inland, let us purchase the right and title to the space of +country we may judge necessary for that purpose, from any of the native +Princes or powers to whom it may belong. This was done at Sierra Leone, +and may be done in any other part of Africa very readily, and at a +trifling expence. + +This done, there fixed and fortified, we have an unquestionable right to +extend our connections in Africa by trade, and by treaties. We can form +alliances, take nations under our protection who may solicit the same, +(many certainly would,) and thus situated, we should have the clearest +right to resist, repel, and conquer every power which might dare to +attack ourselves, or any of our allies. In this manner, as in India, but +at much less trouble and expence, our influence, power, and empire, +would be felt, would be consolidated, extended, and securely fixed in +Africa; and, ere long, it would comprehend all the countries which have +been pointed out, either as friends, or immediately under our sway. It +is in this manner I would recommend, and wish to see, and hope to see, +our power and commerce extended in Africa; and, in this manner, it can +and would extend, not only without infringing upon any legitimate +rights, but extending inestimable blessings and benefits to all. + +We have attempted to do much for Africa, but hitherto without effect. We +have expended millions in endeavouring to arrest the career of the slave +trade, and upon Sierra Leone; but, in regard to the former, it may be +stated altogether without effect. Let it not be supposed that I mean any +reflections upon any one on account of the measures which have been +pursued, but the expence has hitherto been such as to be a serious item +in our national expenditure, and all without any good resulting to +either to ourselves or Africa, at least such as offers any prospect of +permanent advantage. It was only the other day that, for one year, +L.150,000 was voted to pay Portugal for illegal captures of her slave +ships, and L.18,000 more as the expences for commissions to watch over +and investigate these matters. Large as these sums are, still they are +comparatively trifling to what has at different times previously been +paid to Spain and Portugal, and in rewards to our naval officers for +seizing those very vessels which this nation is thus obliged to repay. A +portion, however, of the sums mentioned, and not a very large portion, +would be sufficient to commence an establishment such as that +recommended, and which, from the trade it would draw to it and protect, +would not only be soon able to support itself, but to repay whatever +advances government may, in the first instance, have made. On this +principle also ought colonies only to be formed in Africa, to draw +wealth to Britain, not to take it from her. We have done much for +Africa. We are the best entitled of any European nation to secure to +ourselves whatever advantages she may possess. To extend and to increase +these advantages, a liberal policy in all things is absolutely +necessary, and it may be equally advantageous to Africa and to Great +Britain that foreign ships should be admitted into such a colony or +colonies with the produce of their respective countries which Africa may +require, and be permitted in return to take away cargoes of African +produce to their own countries, but to these countries alone. This, so +far from injuring our commerce in that quarter, would tend rather to +increase it, or, where it might militate against our interests, a +trifling duty imposed upon foreigners, might, without materially +injuring them, make up the difference. + +In an undertaking of this kind, we are not to be led away by too +sanguine hopes of immediate success; because, if we are so, we shall be +completely and unnecessarily discouraged at any untoward circumstance +which may, in the course of events, come in our way. Neither are we to +imagine that the population of Africa, or indeed any other population +within the Torrid Zone, can be brought to exert themselves in the same +manner as the hardier natives of temperate climates. But were the +exertions of the former only brought to equal one half the labours of +the latter, the gain would be immense to Africa and to the world. It +would give a new turn, and a different tone, to the feelings and +pursuits of the population of that unhappy country. But nothing can be +done—nothing ever will be done, to alter their present indolent and +inactive mode of life, till justice and general security are spread +throughout these extensive regions. It would be vain to expect industry +or exertion on their parts, in order to procure the comforts and the +luxuries of life, when no one can call any thing he may possess his own, +or where the superior wealth which he does possess serves only to mark +him out as the prey of the unfeeling robber or sovereign despot. +Formidable as these two scourges are in Africa, still they are only so +to the feeble and imbecile population, whom superstition and ignorance +have, from time immemorial, taught to bend under the yoke. Before the +power, energy, and intelligence—before the firmness, prudence, and +justice of Great Britain, these would vanish. Those fearful butcheries, +under the name of “_customs_,” at the death of any person of note, so +prevalent in Southern Africa, would disappear. Industry and commerce +would rear their heads. Christianity would enter, with Liberty in her +train; and the unprincipled despot, and the sanguinary freebooter, would +shrink back into the deserts, and be heard of no more. + +The exertion on the part of Great Britain to accomplish all this would +be small. The power of the Arab is declining; it is easy to contend with +a power in that condition. The climate opposes some obstacles, the +population of Africa none. The smallest gun-brig in our navy would lay +the nations dwelling on both banks of the Niger, from Bammakoo to its +mouth, from Bornou to Benin, prostrate before us, with awe, obedience, +and respect. Coming as their friend—overthrowing what is evil— rearing +up, encouraging and protecting what is just, we should teach the nations +in these extensive regions to assume their rank amongst the sons of men. +To accomplish this, we have, by means of the Niger, a safe and an easy +road. Let no other nation pre-occupy it. + + + + + * * * * * + TRADE AND COMMERCE + OF + NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA. + * * * * * + + + TRADE AND COMMERCE + OF + NORTHERN CENTRAL AFRICA. + + * * * * * + + CHAP. I. + +_Colonies necessary to Great Britain — France anxious to colonize Africa +— New markets can alone relieve our trade — Old overstocked — Africa, +the best field — Superior productions — Country near the Niger — +Powerful, populous, cultivated and commercial states — Large cities — +Numerous valuable productions — Africa long neglected — Formerly +enriched other countries — Articles of export and import — Particular +enumeration and value of those most in demand — Salt — Ostrich feathers +— Spices — Precious stones — Gums — Drugs — Dye stuffs — Gold dust — +Ivory — Gunpowder, Fire arms, &c. — Value of articles — Great profits on +trade — Immense advantages of a water conveyance — Hardships attending +the trade at present — Value of articles at the Gold coast and the +interior — Extent and value of the trade at present — Would supply our +West India Colonies with provisions — Obtain plenty of fine cotton — +Would open up a trade to the Cape of Good Hope and India — Abolition of +the slave trade would relieve and cultivate Africa — If not checked our +West India colonies must be ruined — Infringe the rights of no civilized +nation in colonizing Africa — Three modes of establishing the trade — A +chartered company the best — Regulations under which to be formed — +Government must countenance and support such an undertaking — Plans to +be adopted and pursued — General reflections on the climate of Africa, +and the importance of the contemplated undertaking._ + + +The high rank and preponderance of Great Britain in the scale of +nations, can only be maintained by extensive commerce. This alone can +give us naval superiority, and that can be secured to us only by +colonial establishments. In the present depressed state of our +manufactures and commerce, no permanent relief can be hoped for, if new +markets for our trade be not discovered and established. The old, of +which we had the monopoly, have, from the industry, the skill, and +exertions of the population of other countries, become less beneficial +to us than formerly; and for the reasons stated, as well as from the +poverty of other countries, the demand from us is greatly reduced. +Besides this, we must look forward to new colonies to replace such as in +the course of time we must lose. Amongst this number are our North +American possessions, and the East Indies, all of which will, sooner or +later, throw off our yoke. Our West India colonies are also on the +decline. The system that made them is destroyed; and it is quite +certain, that a revolution in their internal establishments, violent or +gradual, is not far distant, either of which will work such a change as +will render these possessions of little value as commercial colonies. +They are also daily getting more and more into contact with dangerous +and ambitious neighbours, which must render the tenure of these +possessions more insecure, and perhaps force us into future contests, +the expences attending which, the parent state may, from their altered +economy, grudge to bear. All these considerations render it imperious +upon us to turn our thoughts to commence establishments in some other +parts of the world, that by gradual improvement these may render the +decay and ultimate loss of some of our present colonial establishments +as light and little felt as possible. In establishing such colonies, +care should be taken to keep them free from the inconveniences, dangers, +and changes to which several of our present colonial establishments are +so much exposed. There is, perhaps, no part of the globe where new +commercial establishments could be set down more easily, or where these +could be more effectually protected than in Africa. It is at present a +noble, and at present an undisputed, but not long to remain an +undisputed field. + +The French nation is most anxious and most earnest to extend their +settlements and influence in Africa. Deprived by the Revolution and by +wars, of, I may say, all their valuable colonial possessions, France +looks to Africa with a longing eye. To cultivate colonial produce in +Africa by means of her population was the idea of Talleyrand, and the +plan of her late Imperial Despot; and nothing but the constant wars in +which his restless and unprincipled ambition involved him, and his +ultimate downfall, prevented him from putting this plan into execution, +with an energy and means which would have altered the whole face of +European colonial policy in tropical regions. The same advice which +suggested this plan has yet the ear of the French government, and every +proceeding on the part of France shews clearly, that she has the object +in view as soon as circumstances will permit. America has also turned +her attention to Africa; and an expedition for a settlement, and another +for discovery, was lately sent out to the west coast of Africa for +similar purposes and similar views. The spot that we ought to choose for +our exertions, may—nay, must soon be pitched upon by one or other of +these powers. + +The object which this country ought at present to attend to, is, as has +been shortly noticed, to look out for and obtain new markets for the +productions of her industry. Laying open the trade to India and to +China, taking off all the restrictions with which our commerce is at +present unavoidably fettered, will merely afford a temporary relief to +the mercantile interest of the country. Other nations may adhere to +restrictive systems, and, at all events, we will be met on equal terms +on that point. In and with the countries particularly mentioned, and +many others not enumerated, we have and will continue more and more to +have the unencumbered efforts of the mental skill and physical exertions +of their whole population to contend with. To no civilized country can +we at present send manufactures in which we do not find native +manufactures springing up to oppose, and to be encouraged, in preference +to ours. This is what we had reason to expect, and of which we have no +just reason to complain. In France, Germany, the kingdom of the +Netherlands, Russia, and Prussia, this is remarkably the case. The +renovated governments of several nations of Europe, the moment they are +got clear of political storms, will turn their attention to similar +objects. In India our manufactures are met by cheapness and superiority. +The British manufacturer and merchant may there gain the superiority; +but, in effecting their object, both may be forced into sacrifices which +no future compensation will be able to repay; while any partiality shewn +in that trade may very readily raise a tempest, which will tear up to +its foundations the fabric of our power in India. In China we may say +they exchange no manufactures with us. South America is convulsed with +civil war, and, end as that contest may, still the greater part of the +real property of the country, namely, the slaves, by whom alone the land +was cultivated and produce raised, is, by their emancipation, destroyed; +and it is evident that a long time must elapse before the loss is +replaced or injury repaired under another system. The United States are +stripped of all their neutral carrying trade, and all that valuable +trade to our West India colonies so long their great gain and support; +and thus situated, these States cannot, if they were inclined, take from +us any thing like the quantity of manufactures which they formerly did. +Besides, they are endeavouring to rear up manufactures amongst +themselves, while the independence of South America will lay open to all +the world a trade of which Great Britain, from particular circumstances, +has long enjoyed almost the complete monopoly. It is a fact that they +prefer the linens of Silesia and other manufactures of Germany to many +articles of our manufacture. + +New markets, therefore, can only afford this country a great and a +permanent relief;—new markets in countries where no competition from +manufactures produced by native skill and industry can for ages lessen +the value of, the demand for, or come in competition with ours;—new +markets which can supply us, in return for the productions of our skill, +with the precious metals, and with the raw materials for many branches +of our trade, and other articles which we at present must take from +rival commercial states. Africa is that country, and the natives in the +interior of the northern central parts thereof the people we have to +look to as consumers of our manufactures, and from whom we can fear no +competition at all. The introduction of gold dust alone would tend to +lessen the value of money raised by the resumption of cash payments, and +consequently tend greatly to lighten the load of our national debt. + +On the United States of America, we may say, we chiefly depend for the +superior cottons for our finer manufactures. War betwixt those States +and this country is by no means an improbable event. Their interests +would no doubt, notwithstanding, lead them to get their cotton to a +British market; but, during war, it is evident that it could only find +its way at an enhanced rate. This additional price might be such as +would raise the value of our manufactures to a price beyond what +Continental nations could afford, or are inclined to give, and therefore +lead them more and more to encourage manufactures of their own growth, +and to manufacture for themselves. It must therefore be of the first +importance to our cotton manufacturers to be independent of America for +a supply of fine cottons. Africa, as we shall presently see more at +large, can furnish that supply. The tea trade to China is a continued +drain upon this country for specie. From good authority, it seems that +this valuable plant may be cultivated to advantage on the rich plains +which extend between the Rio Volta and the Niger. Also the old Arabian +traveller, Batouta, who had visited China, states, that in the interior +parts of Africa, along the Niger, which he visited, the tea plant grew +abundantly. Here is another and a mighty inducement to secure as ours +the produce of these regions. In comparison with China, these parts are +at the door; and the difference in freight and insurance alone, would +give the tea there produced a decided superiority in the European +market, and in the markets of every part of the western world. It could +also be obtained from Africa in exchange for our manufactures, and not +as from China, in exchange for specie only. + +It is to the Niger and his tributary streams that our attention ought to +be turned. The magnitude and importance of these, have elsewhere been +sufficiently dwelt on. The wide extent of Africa through which these +rivers run, is susceptible of great improvement, and is every way +adapted for trade. Here is not a barren wilderness inhabited by a few +savage individuals, who possess not one idea of useful knowledge or +civilized life. We should not, in Africa, wander as the first European +settlers did on the banks of the Maranon and the La Plata, for hundreds +of miles, without seeing a habitation where a half civilized human being +would be content to shelter his head. No! numerous, powerful, and +populous cities, rise around us on every side. The inhabitants of these +are indeed unlettered barbarians, compared to Europeans, but the +materials for a better state of society are most abundant, and want only +a power to direct, to excite, and to controul them. + +Bornou is a very extensive and powerful monarchy. The capital thereof is +so large, that travellers, in describing its magnitude, state, that +Cairo, which contains half a million of people, “_is a trifle to it_.” +Kashna, which is subject to Bornou, is said to contain 1000 towns and +villages. The country is represented as being very pleasant, beautifully +diversified with hill and dale, very fertile, well cultivated, abounding +in docks and herds, and very populous. In this kingdom, they dye goat +skins red and yellow in a very superior manner. These form a very +considerable branch of trade with the Barbary States, particularly with +Morocco, from whence they are carried into most of the countries in +Europe. The kingdom of Asben, of which Agadez is the capital, is a +beautiful and a very rich country, populous and well cultivated. From +Assouda to Agadez, and also southward to Tegomah, it is particularly so. +Silver is said to be so plentiful in this country, that the natives +construct their defensive armour and the corslets of their horses with +that metal. Houssa is also a very populous country, and throughout all +the territories included under this name, the population are represented +as being a very superior race of people to any other in the interior of +Africa. The environs of Timbuctoo, and for many days journey north-east +of it, is all a cultivated and populous country. On the Niger, above it +for several hundred miles, we know from undoubted authority, that the +population is very considerable, and that both agriculture and commerce +are successfully and extensively carried on. About the beginning of last +century, the sovereigns of Morocco carried on a great and lucrative +trade with Timbuctoo, by means of regular caravans, properly guarded, +and assisted by regular establishments in the Great Desert. This trade, +once the chief source of the wealth of Morocco, has been for many years +nearly lost, owing to political revolutions in that country. It is now, +however, about being re-organised by the Emperor of Morocco, under the +direction of an Englishman, and upon a better and a securer footing than +before. + +Descending the Niger, we find at Wassanah every mark of cultivation and +commerce. Betwixt this place and Timbuctoo, there are, no doubt, many +fine districts, particularly where Kuku is situated, so “famous for +magnitude” in the early ages of Arabian power. From Wassanah to the sea, +and westward to Ashantee, we hear of considerable attention to +agriculture and unremitting attention to commerce. All ranks are traders +in Africa. No one thinks mercantile matters and pursuits beneath his +notice, or that he is degraded by following trade. On the contrary, the +merchants amongst them are accounted the chief ones of the earth; and it +is remarkable, that in many places traders pass free and unmolested +between nations at war with each other. In every part of the Delta of +Benin commerce is eagerly followed. Westward from the Rio Volta the +population is numerous, most of them very industrious, and all actively +engaged in business of some description or other. The country from the +Rio Volta to the Rio de Formosa, is represented as being uncommonly +beautiful; and the agriculture in many places such as would not disgrace +many parts of Europe. Inland, the country known under the name of +Wangara, or those parts of Africa supposed to go under this name, is in +all probability a country considerably advanced in civilization. “It is +the country of gold and aromatics,” says Bakui. Gold dust is amazingly +plentiful all along the Niger, from the sources downwards. The quality +is particularly fine about Bourrè above Tangarari. It is found also in +Houssa, and about the sources of the Bahr Kulla. Silver, copper, and +iron, abound in various parts of Africa, particularly in those countries +situated upon the Niger, in the early part of his course, and towards +the sources of the Senegal and the Gambia. The latter is of a very fine +quality. Many other rich stores would undoubtedly be added to our +knowledge were these countries explored, as doubtless they would be, if +subjected to Great Britain. + +The cities in these places are numerous and large. Sego, we know from +good authority, contains 30,000 inhabitants; yet it is but a trifling +place to Walet, Timbuctoo, Houssa, Wassanah, and Kashna, on the north- +east side of the Niger. Coomassie, Yahndi, Abomey, Benin, Ardrah, Lagos, +and many other places, are all great towns. Moors and Negroes no doubt +amplify in their descriptions of places, but still, allowing largely for +that, sufficient remains to shew the importance of all these places. The +country throughout is covered with smaller towns, villages, hamlets; and +to most of these places navigable branches of the Niger extend. There +cannot be a doubt, but, that these places would prove prodigious outlets +for all the manufactures of this country. Even at the commencement the +demand would be considerable, and every succeeding voyage would increase +it. + +Every kind of colonial produce can be cultivated in Africa. The rich +soil from the Volta eastward, in all the Delta of Benin, and along the +Niger northward, are particularly adapted for coffee, sugar, &c. Cotton +of a quality remarkably fine may be had in abundance. Rice is found +every where, and in great quantities. Indian corn of the very finest +quality is in all places most abundant, and which of itself would form a +great source of wealth and a most valuable and important branch of +commerce. Various kinds of dyes and dyewoods are very plentiful. The +qualities are very superior. Some of them are said to resist both acids +and light. To this country the importation of such articles would be +invaluable. The fine navigable rivers render the conveyance and shipment +of all these heavy articles of produce easy and cheap, an advantage +which no territory distant from a water conveyance can possess. Such +means of conveyance are advantageous every where, but within the Tropics +these are incalculably so. The Jaboos, a superior race of people, +situated between Lagos and Benin, use the dye stuffs of the country with +great ingenuity; and the manufactures carried on by the population about +the junction of the Gir with the Niger are numerous and well executed. +Immense herds of deer traverse the fertile plains situated north of +Iffla or Popo. Teak trees and other very fine kinds of timber for ship- +building are every where to be had in any quantity. Various descriptions +of timber also fit for furniture, and some fine kinds peculiar to +Africa, can be readily obtained. Palm oil, which finds ready market in +this country, is to be had in abundance. But it is impossible to +enumerate, within the bounds of a publication like this, every article +of commerce which may even now be found in Africa. What must it become +when science is introduced, and property and life made secure? + +The legitimate commerce of this portion of Africa has long been +neglected. In early ages it was certainly of much more importance than +it is now. There is good reason to believe that the Roman empire +obtained the greater part of the gold which enriched it from the centre +of Africa. After the Arabs extended their arms into those parts of +Africa, commerce was very active, and the quantity of gold brought from +Sudan was very great. Morocco was the great emporium of this traffic, +and from thence this precious metal was circulated into most of the +nations of Europe. The Sovereigns of the former country were so sensible +of the immense advantages which this trade conferred, that they carried +large armies across the desert, subdued, and for a long time held in +subjection the finest parts of Sudan. Timbuctoo was the chief seat of +their power. With that city and Fez there was a regular and open +communication. Segelmessa, and all the towns south of Mount Atlas, were +enriched by the traffic carried on with the land of the Negroes. In the +days of Leo Africanus, who visited all these parts, this trade was +carried on with much industry. Segelmessa, in particular, was greatly +enriched by it. So also was the province of Dara, in its immediate +neighbourhood. “Their castles in this province,” says Leo, “are +inhabited by goldsmiths and other artificers, and so are all the regions +lying in the way from Timbuctoo to Fez.” + +Jinnë was famous in the days of Leo for cotton, and grain, and gold; all +of which they exchanged with the caravans from the northward. The +inhabitants of Timbuctoo were particularly wealthy. There were many +shops of artificers and merchants, especially such as wove cotton and +linen cloth. The king had many plates and sceptres of gold of great +weight and value. Their coin had no stamp. Perhaps it was what is now +called Wangara gold bars. There are Negroes in our West India islands, +from the interior of Africa, who distinctly state that there are in +their countries shops and places of business not inferior to many in +some of the best towns in these islands. Gago was also an important +commercial station: “It is wonderful,” said Leo, “to see what plenty of +merchandize is daily brought hither, and how costly and sumptuous all +things be.” The arms of Morocco also reached this distant place, and it +is said that Muley Hamed, son of the famous Muley Moluck, sovereign of +Morocco, some time about the year 1590, brought from Gago 75 quintals, +and from Timbuctoo 60 quintals of gold dust, making together 135 +quintals or 16,065 lbs. avoirdupois weight of gold, the whole worth +about L.962,100 Sterling. (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_, p. 520.) The yearly +tribute of Timbuctoo was 60 quintals. Succeeding sovereigns continued to +draw immense supplies from the same quarter of this precious metal. In +the days of Leo, the central parts of Africa received all their foreign +supplies from the northern side of the great desert. The length of the +journey, and the difficulties and dangers attendant thereon, rendered +the price of every article of foreign manufacture very high. Thus horses +bought in Europe at 10 ducats each, sold at Gago for 40 and 50 ducats. +The coarsest European cloths brought four, and the finest 15 ducats per +ell. One ell of Venice or Turkey scarlet cloth, sold as high as 30 +ducats per ell. A sword brought four crowns; spears, bridles, &c. were +proportionally dear. Salt, however, exceeded every other commodity in +value. The duty in Gago was L.5 for a camel load of 600 lbs. The prime +cost at Tegazza was only four shillings per load. At Timbuctoo also this +article bore a very high value. Though some of the articles mentioned +now reach these interior parts from the Gulph of Guinea, still their +value in the interior is, from various circumstances, not greatly +reduced. + +The articles chiefly imported into the different places connected with +the trade of interior Africa are as follows, viz. into the eastern parts +from the Red Sea, into Abyssinia, Nubia, and westward to Kordefan and +Darfur, they import, cambrics, baft (used as currency,) India goods, +such as Bengal silks, China silks, nankeens, cotton cloth, cotton +stuffs, refined sugar, in small loaves of about four pounds each, linen, +paper, sheep-skins, tar, looking-glasses, silver trinkets for female +ornaments, soap, files, scissars, thimbles, needles, razors, sword +blades, coral, spices, such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, +black-pepper, India and Mokha beads, and a great variety of other +articles. From the north and from the sea-coasts on the west, there is +sold and carried into interior Africa, viz. manufactured silks, damasks, +brocade, velvet, raw silk, combs of box and ivory, gold, thread, paper, +cochineal, (from France, Italy, &c.) red woollen caps, baize, check +linens, light coarse woollen cloths, blue linens, long cloths, superfine +and plain brilliant cloths, and mixtures, and cassimeres, Turkey +carpets, glazed cottons, printed cottons, calicoes, cotton netting, +veils, printed and calico handkerchiefs, muslin dresses and scarfs, +cotton stockings, dimities, creas, rowans, Britannias and Irish linens, +plattillas, tissues, muslins, (mulls) gum-benzoin, gum, tartar, cassia, +vitriol, brimstone, alum, copper, brass, iron nails, copper nails, brass +nails, dagger blades, knives, fire-arms, powder, and shot, all kinds of +hardware for common use, trinkets, beads, glass-ware, salt, iron, +tobacco, lead, cocoa, coffee, sandals, cushions, Silesias, all India +cotton and linen goods, brandy, rum, and various other articles +previously enumerated. + +From eastern Sudan the exports are, viz. slaves, gold dust, gum-arabic, +gum-liban, (a kind of incense much esteemed,) leather, whips, rhinoceros +horns, very valuable, ostrich feathers, very fine, ebony, ivory, musk, +&c. To Morocco and other Barbary states are exported, viz. slaves, gold +dust, gold bars, gold trinkets, _B’kore_, a kind of frankincense, +greatly esteemed by Mahommedans, guza serawie, (grains of paradise,) +ivory, amber, ostrich feathers, gum-Arabic or gum-Sudan, gum-Copal, +assafoetida, dyed skins, tiger skins, leopard skins, senna, manna, +indigo, equal to that of Guatimala, hemp, &c. From the south and from +the west coasts are exported, viz. elephants’ teeth, gold dust, wax, +honey, palm oil, rice, Indian corn, cotton, indigo, amber, barwood, +camwood, ebony, sandalwood, hides, a great variety of medicinal herbs +and drugs, dye-woods and dye-stuffs of very superior qualities, and a +great variety of timber fit for ship-building and other articles. + +In the interior, a great trade is carried on from place to place in +exchanging various commodities of native productions and produce. Shea +butter, produced from the shea tree; Garoo nuts, a fruit eagerly sought +after by all the nations south of the Niger; and some native trinkets +and manufactures, form considerable branches of commerce in Africa. The +latter, however, would soon yield to the superiority of European skill. +Provisions also form a considerable branch of trade, in carrying these +from one state to another, as may be found requisite. There no doubt +exists other branches with which we are unacquainted; and many more +would be produced were industry and security extended and put in +activity over these extensive districts of Africa. + +Several of these articles of commerce are so important, as to demand our +particular attention and observation. From these we may obtain data to +enable us to judge of the value and importance of other articles already +enumerated. To begin with salt: This is an article of the greatest +importance in commerce, and one which the population of these parts +cannot possibly do without. The profits thereon, says Jackson, “_are +extravagant_.” According to El Hagi Shabeeny, “_it is more profitable +than linen_.” (_Jackson’s Shabeeny_.) In almost every part of Africa, it +bears the same high price. In Dar Kulla, Browne informs us, that twelve +pounds of salt will buy a male, and fifteen pounds a female slave. At +Timbuctoo, it has been known so high in price that six pounds thereof +was equal to the value of a prime slave. In Melli, a camel’s load brings +from 200 to 300 mitgalli, or minkalli, each worth about a ducat. These +loads are generally small; for, being composed of rock salt, they do not +carry much, lest a heavy load should chafe the backs and sides of the +camels. These loads are sometimes more, sometimes less, and from 200 +lbs. as high as 600 lbs. About 300 lbs. may be reckoned a medium load. +This would make the value in Melli from 4s. to 5s. Sterling per lb. Leo +Africanus says, he has seen 80 ducats given for a load at Timbuctoo. +Each load costs at Tegazze, in the Desert, 4s. Sterling. From the heart +of the Great Desert, the Moors and Arabs carry on an immense trade in +this article, to all the neighbouring parts of Sudan. Since the days of +Edrisi also, to this day, it has been an extensive article of commerce +from the sea-coasts on the Bights of Biafra and Benin, to the interior +parts of the continent. It is carried to the most distant parts by means +of the rivers. But having so many petty states to pass through, where +the trader cannot protect himself, so many duties, presents, expenses +and exactions, are laid upon it, and so many barterings and sales take +place, that it becomes extremely dear by the time it reaches the +interior countries, without yielding a great return to each hand engaged +in conveying it. To the slaves brought from Houssa, and other countries +in its neighbourhood, to the sea-coast, a piece of salt is the greatest +rarity which can be presented to them. This shews the scarcity of it in +the interior, and the absurdity of placing the Isle of Ulil and the +salt-pits of the early Arabian geographers in those very parts of Africa +where salt is unknown. Rock-salt is what is chiefly carried from the +great desert. Such can be purchased in Britain, for exportation, at the +rate of 12s. to 15s. per ton. It is needless to point out the ease with +which European merchants and navigators could carry it into the interior +of Africa by a water conveyance, and the advantages to be derived from +such a trade. + + + _Ostrich Feathers._ + + +This is also an important and lucrative branch of African commerce. +Those brought from Timbuctoo, Houssa, &c. are much superior to any that +are found in Eastern Sudan, and from thence carried to the Egyptian +market. Yet the latter sell at Cairo for 280 piastres (L.70 Sterling) +per lb. They are generally sorted in parcels of 10 lbs. containing a +proportion of each kind from the best to the worst. The price at Cairo +is ten times greater than at Shendy in Nubia. (_Burk._ p. 282.) Hence we +can form some idea of the advantages which the merchant would derive by +getting into the interior of Africa, and procuring and transporting +these with the facilities which a water communication affords. Sorted +for the Cairo market, the parcels contain 1 lb. of the finest and the +whitest sort, 1 lb. of the second quality, and 8 lbs. of the coarser +kinds, in equal proportions, making the parcel 10 lbs. which sells for +2800 piastres, or L.700 Sterling. The price at Shendy may be taken as a +just criterion to judge of the value at Timbuctoo and Houssa, say 28 +piastres, or L.7 Sterling per lb. In Britain, the finer kinds cost very +high. The advantages of this branch of commerce is very evident. + + + _Spices, Precious Stones, &c._ + + +According to the accounts of various travellers, pimento is abundant in +Dar Kulla. The tree which bears it is called _kumba_. A _rotal_, or +pound of salt, will purchase four or five _mid_, each _mid_ about a +peck, or nearly 35 lbs. for 5s. which is about the value of a pound of +salt in that country, (_Browne_, p. 309.) Edrisi and Ibn-al-Vardi, +expressly describe Vancara as “the country of gold and aromatics.” We +have seen in what part of Africa this country lies. Ptolemy, in his +“_Mundi Descriptio_, cap. 15, states the remarkable fact, that in these +parts of Africa, “Hyacinthus et chrysoprasus ibi reperiunter. Cinnamomum +ibi colligitur.” _Hyacinths and chrysoprasus are there found. There +cinnamon is collected_. Jackson informs us, that one of the chief +articles of export from Sudan to Morocco is “_B’Kore Sudan_,” +(fumigation of Sudan,) a kind of frankincense much esteemed. Burkhardt +mentions gum-Liban as an article of value in the exports from the +eastern parts, and which is also a kind of incense, and used as a +medicine. As early as the days of Hanno, Africa seems to have been +remarkable for spices. That navigator expressly mentions, that in his +voyage between “Hesperus his Horn,” and the “Chariot of the Gods,” he +sailed along a coast from which the gales were perfumed with incense. +This was no doubt the _Mellegette_, or Pepper coast, where the +Portuguese found such great quantities of pimento, and which, to this +day, abounds there. When the trees are in blossom, the fragrance which +perfumes the air is delightful, and reaches to a distance. Many other +valuable articles would, without a doubt, be brought to light by the +energy and activity which European intelligence would create and call +forth in Africa. Once shew the population that the fruits of their +industry is secure, and a market open for the same to exchange, in order +to supply their wants, and the work is done. + + + _Gums, Drugs, &c._ + + +Senna is most abundant in the interior parts of Africa, particularly in +the territories of Kashna. It is brought into Europe by way of Tripoli +and Alexandria. That brought from Tripoli is the best, owing perhaps to +the journey being shorter, and the article receiving more care in the +packing, and less damage in the carriage across the desert. The King of +Fezzan exacted from the tribes of Tibesti an yearly tribute of 20 camel +loads of this article. Manna is also abundant in the central parts of +Africa, near the confines of the desert. About Agadez the inhabitants +collect it in small vessels, and, mingled with water, they esteem it a +very precious drink. It is of a very cooling nature, and therefore +extremely useful in such a climate. Gum Arabic is particularly abundant +in Africa. The name it there goes by is Gum Sudan. Burkhardt informs us, +that what of this article is brought from the countries to the westward +of Kordofan is of the very finest quality. That produced in the central +parts cannot be less so. The value thereof we shall immediately and +particularly consider. In proportion to its value, must be the value of +all other commodities of a similar description in interior Africa. The +prices, therefore, of the following articles in Britain, are worth +attending to. The whole quoted are African productions. + + Gum Copal, 2s. 3d. to 6s. per lb.; duty, 1s. 8d. per lb. + + Assafœtida, £5 to £10 per cwt.; duty, 10d. per lb. + + Musk, 12s. to 15s. per oz.; duty, 5s. per oz. + + Senna (Tripoli,) 3s. to 3s. 3d. per lb.; duty, 1s. 3d. per lb. + + Gum Ammoniac, drop, £22 to £25 per cwt.; duty, 1s. 3d. do. + + Do. do. lump, £10 to 10 guineas, do.; do. do. + + Gum Galbanum, drop, £28 to 28 do. do.; do. 1s. 4d. do. + + Grains, Guinea, £9 to £10 per cwt. do. 2s. + + Indigo, (Guatimala,) 8s. 6d. to 9s. per lb.; duty, 5d. per lb. + +The latter article, Jackson informs us, which is produced abundantly in +Africa, is of a quality equal to that brought from Guatimala, which is +the finest that is to be got. Various other dye stuffs, and also dye +woods, are abundant in Africa. The quality of some of these are so +superior as to resist both acids and light. Such would be most +invaluable to a manufacturing country like this. The Senna of Agadez is +worth, at Tripoli, from L.4, 4s. to L.4, 10s. per 100 lbs. That of +Tibesti is only worth from L.2, 14s. to L.3 per the same quantity. +(_Transact. Afric. Assoc._ p. 169.) + + + _Gold Dust._ + + +This article is very abundant in all the mountainous districts of +Africa. The following places are more remarkable for it than others, +viz. Mandingo, the countries around the sources of the Niger, Senegal, +&c. and the country to the south of Vancara, or amidst that range called +Mount Thala by Ptolemy. Also about the sources of the Bahr-el-Abiad, and +south-west of the Bahr-el-Azreek, about Dumute and countries to the +south-west. Gold is said to be more plentiful in those parts than in +Peru. There can be no doubt but if a civilized and strong power were +established on the Niger in Central Africa, that this article would +circulate to it from regions the most remote, and hitherto unknown, and +be collected by people who are at present careless, as not knowing what +to make of it. The value of this article is different at different +places in Africa, and is not always easily and correctly ascertained. +Being easier transported than other merchandize, it in general +approaches nearer its European value than articles and produce of +greater bulk and more expensive carriage. At Fezzan and Cashna, the +ounce of 640 grains, or 9 Mitkals, is worth, in Cashna, L.4, 10s. but in +Fezzan only L.4. At this rate, an English ounce of 480 grains, is worth, +in Cashna, L.3, 17s. 6d., and in Fezzan only L.3. (_Transac. Afric. +Assoc._ p. 169.) El Hagi Shabeeny states, that the value of gold at +Timbuctoo and Fezz was as 90 at the former to 150 at the latter, a +difference of nearly 70 _per cent._, which would almost induce us to +believe that there is some mistake. + + + _Ivory, &c._ + + +Ivory is a most important and lucrative branch of African commerce. It +is to be had in considerable quantities in the interior. The medium +value in Britain at first hand is L.21 per cwt. exclusive of a duty of +L.3. It is bought at Houssa at about 1½d. per lb. and sells in Morocco +at the rate of 60 ducats for 200 lbs. In Ashantee the price is about +20s. per cwt. All these articles mentioned, and many more of the most +interesting and valuable kinds, medicinal herbs, drugs, dye-stuffs, dye- +woods, colonial produce of every kind, timber of the most valuable kinds +for ship-building, and other purposes, would soon be found in abundance +in Africa. The water communication which the Niger and his tributary +streams afford lays the whole immediately and readily open. + +Gunpowder, shot, flints, and fire-arms, are every where in great demand, +and bring an enormous profit. The exportation of these articles, +however, from Great Britain is prohibited. The reason given is, that +these things would tend to encourage wars amongst the natives, and +extend the slave trade. This is an erroneous policy on our part, and has +an effect diametrically opposite to what we suppose. Foreign nations +carry these things into Africa to exchange for slaves, and for slaves +alone. The consequences are, that the natives and powers on the sea- +coasts arm themselves with these formidable weapons, and carefully and +strictly prohibit the introduction of any into the interior countries. +In this manner the former are rendered superior to the latter, who +become an easy prey to their profligate neighbours whenever or wherever +they find that it suits their interest and convenience. In this manner +the slave trade is extended and aggravated, and we, at the same time, +lose all the benefit which the sale and exchange of these commodities +afford, without rendering Africa the service we intend. If the nations +inland could procure European fire-arms, there is not the smallest doubt +but they would be able to repel all the hostile attacks of their lawless +neighbours, made for the sole purpose of procuring slaves, whether these +inroads are made by the Negro Powers from the sea-coasts, or the Moors +and the Arabs from the Great Desert. The policy of both are the same on +this point, and each do all they can to keep the population of the +interior from obtaining such supplies, that this population may, at all +times, remain at their mercy. All accounts, European or African, agree +in their statements on this head. + +If Great Britain carried her arms into Africa to colonize and to rule +over it, then her policy, and her just and wise policy, would be to +keep, as far as she was able, fire-arms from the hands of every nation +in the interior, but such as she can depend upon as being friendly and +faithful to her. While this is not the case, however, our obvious policy +is to exchange and sell such productions of our skill and industry as +the population of Africa may have the greatest desire to obtain. In this +manner we shall wrest a valuable branch of commerce from the hands of +foreign nations, who use it for the worst of purposes, obtain the +friendship and protection of the greater powers, and thus get our +manufactures and our policy—our name and our greatness extended over +Africa. It is a mistake that the possession of fire-arms render wars +more bloody, and nations more eager to engage in them. The reverse is +the case, as, if it were here necessary to establish more fully, a +reference to history both ancient and modern would readily prove. The +extension of a trade in these articles to Africa, and such may be +extended to an inconceivable degree, would be of the utmost advantage to +Great Britain, and, in a particular manner, it would tend to relieve the +stagnation of the trade in Birmingham, so greatly depressed from the +cessation of hostilities in Europe, the duration of which occasioned +continued and extensive demands for these articles from that city. + +The cotton and linen manufactures of this country are particularly +coveted and sought after in Africa. Showy prints are particularly sought +after by the negro women; and there cannot be a doubt, but when they +perceive that the finer dresses are within their power, that these will +also be eagerly coveted. The finer cloths would also soon find a market +in the interior, and even the coarser would be in demand in the cold +mountainous countries. The three following instances of the value of +European articles in the interior, upon the authority of Mr. Jackson and +others, may serve to give us an idea of the value of other articles, +which, in all such as are most in request, we may rest assured, is upon +an equal scale. An 100 lbs. of refined sugar brings at Timbuctoo 100 +Mexican dollars, worth 4s. 6d. each, or L.22, 10s. Sterling. A piece of +Irish linen, 25 yards, of ordinary quality, brings 75 dollars, or L.16, +17s. 6d. A piece Flemish platillas brings 20 mezeens of gold, or 50 +dollars, L.11, 5s. In order, however, to understand the subject better, +and see it in a clearer light, we shall state the value of these +articles, as these are rated in the trade at present carried on from +Morocco and other places across the Great Desert, and the value which +these would bear if carried direct from Great Britain by a water +conveyance, and African productions brought back by the same means. + + * * * * * + + + _IMPORTS AT TIMBUCTOO._ + + 100 lbs. refined sugar cost in Britain £3 10 0 + + Duty in Morocco 10 per cent. 0 9 0 + + Freight to Mogadore 0 3 6 + + Carriage and duties across the Desert 2 0 0 + + Costs at Timbuctoo £6 0 6 + + Sells there for 100 Mexican dollars, at 4s. 6d. each 22 10 0 + + Profit by this conveyance £16 9 6 + + If carried by water, charges would be 30s. less 1 10 0 + -------- + Profit if carried from Britain direct, or 300 p. cent. £17 19 6 + + LINEN. + + A piece Irish linen worth at Timbuctoo £16 17 6 + + Prime cost in, and charges from, Britain, 3 10 6 + -------- + Profit, or near 400 per cent. £13 7 0 + + PLATILLAS. + + A piece is worth at Timbuctoo £11 5 0 + + Cost in, and charges from, Britain, about 2 0 0 + -------- + Profit, or nearly 450 per cent £9 5 0 + + * * * * * + + + _EXPORTS FROM TIMBUCTOO._ + + GUM SUDAN, OR GUM ARABIC. + + 200 camel loads, at 250 lbs. neat, cost 4 Mexican + dollars each load 800 dollars + + Camel hire to Akka in Barbary, at 18 dollars each 3600 + + _Statta_, or convoy duty to chiefs 300 + + Camel hire from Akka to Santa Cruz, at 3 dollars 600 + + Suppose freight and charges to Britain 600 + ------------- + Total 5900 dollars + ------------- + Value brought across the Desert £1327 10 0 + + Gum Sudan, or Gum Arabic, costs in Britain, (the + finest quality,) L.10 per cwt. including a duty of 12s. + + 200 camel loads is 22⅓ tons, at L.200, is £4466 13 4 + + Deduct + + Duty £268 0 0 + + First cost, &c. landed in Britain 1327 10 0 + + --------- 1595 10 0 + ------------- + Profit, or about 210 per cent £2871 3 4 + + If Gum Senegal, it would stand thus: + + 221 tons, at L.100 per ton, (neat) £2233 6 8 + + Deduct first cost 1327 10 0 + ------------- + Profit, or nearly 70 per cent. £905 16 8 + +In the preceding statement, no account is taken of the profit of the +merchant at Santa Cruz or Mogadore, but the whole is stated as if the +article were brought to Great Britain by the route of the Desert. If +shipped to Great Britain by the Niger, it would stand thus, viz. + + Neat proceeds 200 camel loads, or 22⅓ tons, at the + price of Gum Arabic £4198 13 4 + + Deduct + + First cost at Timbuctoo, 800 dollars £180 0 0 + + Freight 22⅓ tons, at L.10 223 6 8 + + Insurance, at 5 per cent. 20 0 0 + + Allow for commissions 20 0 0 + + ---------- 443 6 8 + ---------- + Leaving the enormous profit of £3755 6 8 + + If Gum Senegal, neat proceeds £2233 6 8 + + Deduct cost and charges 443 6 8 + ---------- + Leaving profit 400 per cent. £1790 0 0 + ---------- + Clear profit, at a medium between both £2772 13 4 + + + _TRADE BY BARTER AT TIMBUCTOO._ + + 800 pieces Flemish platillas cost in Britain £1200 0 0 + + 400 pieces Irish linen, ordinary quality 1200 0 0 + + Say freight and charges to Timbuctoo by Niger 600 0 0 + ---------- + Cost landed at Timbuctoo £3000 0 0 + + In the trade across the Desert, these articles, in quantity and + quality as above, have been exchanged for, viz. + + 500 skins Wangara gold dust, each containing + + 4 ounces, is 2000 ounces, at 75s. £7500 0 0 + + 100 Wangara gold bars, each 20 ounces, at 75s. 7500 0 0 + + 50 Camel loads Gum Sudan, medium value 700 0 0 + ---------- + £15,700 0 0 + + Deduct + + Cost articles exchanged £3000 0 0 + + Freight and charges gold to Britain 1500 0 0 + + --------- 4500 0 0 + ---------- + Profit, or 370 per cent. £11,200 0 0 + +But if the above articles were sold for gold or specie, and then native +produce purchased, the profits on a voyage would be much greater, +because there would be a profit both on the export and the import in an +equal ratio. The only difficulty to calculate this, is to ascertain what +is the value of gold at Timbuctoo. This is uncertain; but suppose it is +the same as at Fezzan, namely, L.3 per English ounce, we cannot err far. +Then 400 pieces Irish linen, and 800 pieces platillas, would bring at +Timbuctoo L.12,050, or 53,550 dollars. This sum would purchase 13,387 +camel loads, or 1494 tons Gum Sudan, which would produce in Britain, + + Less duties £280,972 0 0 + + Deduct freight and charges 29,686 0 0 + ------------- + Profit Gum Arabic, 200 per cent. £251,286 0 0 + + If Gum Senegal, would bring £149,400 0 0 + + Deduct freight and charges 29,686 0 0 + ------------- + Profit Gum Senegal, or 100 per cent. £119,714 0 0 + + Exclusive of 400 per cent. profit on the outward + bound cargo. + + IVORY + + Costs at Houssa 1½ per lb. or per cwt. £0 14 0 + + Freight and charges to Britain 0 13 0 + -------- + Cost by water conveyance £1 7 0 + + Sells in Britain for 21 0 0 + -------- + Profit by this mode £19 13 0 + +I state these things merely as a criterion to judge of the advantages +which may be derived from such a trade and such communications being +laid open. I am perfectly well aware that the quantity of the articles +mentioned could not be procured at any one place, or, under the present +circumstances, at any one time in Africa. But various articles, all +bearing a proportional value, could be procured. No doubt, to do so, +would take some time, as there is no such a thing as depots of +merchandize to any extent in Africa. Consequently great deductions would +fall to be made on account of the expences which the greater delay +attending such a voyage would occasion. But, as security was established +in Africa, the articles to be exchanged would be brought to favourable +spots ready for the market, and thus much delay and expence, which, +under the present circumstances, must be incurred, would afterwards be +avoided. It is almost unnecessary to observe, that as the interior is +gained, the nations become more civilized, the country more populous, +the value of all European goods greater, and that of all native +productions less, and the quantity more abundant. Therefore, it is +evident, that the trade to those parts must be most beneficial, and that +the water conveyance will render the most bulky the most profitable, as +being by this means more readily brought to a market. By the use of +steam-boats, every article of commerce may safely, and expeditiously, +and cheaply, be carried into the remotest parts of Africa. Already the +French have got these kinds of vessels on the Senegal. A short time +will, I hope, see such vessels placed on a nobler stream. Nor is it +possible to conceive a sight more surprising and grand than that which +will be disclosed when the first steam-boat bears an European throughout +all central Africa. The consequences will prove beyond all calculation +beneficial. + +It would be a waste of time, and a waste of words, to point out further +the advantages which such a trade would confer on this country, and on +any and all who engage in it. No doubt the value of European articles +would decrease as these became more abundant in the interior of Africa. +But it must also be borne in mind, that the diffusion of knowledge, and +industry, and the establishment of security for life, liberty, and +property, would create such a degree of wealth and of wants, as would +increase the demand to an astonishing degree, and thus keep up the +value. The price also of the productions of interior Africa would no +doubt rise in those countries, and fall in Europe, but the immense +supplies which could so readily be procured and speedily produced, if +once her numerous population had felt the sweets of industry, and +property would tend to counterbalance any exorbitant rise in value from +the increased demand. But, taking every casualty and every difficulty +into account, still the field that remains is so extensive and so +fruitful, that a rich and abundant harvest must be the certain result. + +As the principal part of the trade into Sudan is at present conducted, +it is subjected to the most serious inconveniences. Besides a duty of 10 +per cent. in Morocco, and the excessive expences of land carriage, +amounting, according to the nature of the goods, to three times or five +times the original value, the merchandize in its passage into the +interior passes through five different hands, each of whom receives from +20 to 30 per cent. of profit and duty, &c. Yet the merchants engaged in +it make rich. The African produce brought back is subjected to the same +burdens, and, in Gum-Sudan, we have an instance of the enormous expence +of land carriage, being more than five times the amount of its original +cost. A water conveyance will remove entirely this excessive expence. + +From considering the previous statements, derived from real and +authentic mercantile transactions between Morocco and Timbuctoo, &c. it +is evident that gold and gold dust are not the most profitable, though +these may, in some instances, be the most marketable articles of +Exchange. Being easier transported, gold commands at Timbuctoo a price +much nearer to its European value than any other article, but +particularly bulky articles of African produce. Though the freight of +gold would be lower than any other article, still, its value being +greater, larger sums for commissions and other expences are necessarily +paid upon it. From a trade in the articles we have mentioned into the +interior of Africa, it is evident that a duty to government could very +well be afforded. Suppose the imports into Africa amounted to one +million, and the exports from it to as much, as there is sure data to +shew would be the case, then the duty to government at five per cent. +would produce L.100,000. If the land and properties in Africa paid at +the same rate, wherever we colonized or protected, (at present they pay +ten times the sum, not for protection but for oppression,) it would be +very easy, in this manner, to raise a sufficient revenue to defray every +expence attending any settlement to colonize and to civilize Africa. + +The whole population of Africa, high and low, are traders, and in some +way or other engaged in trade. Already they are acquainted with its +advantages, and some of its rules. They only want security and a greater +degree of knowledge to make them thoroughly acquainted with the +principles of honourable commerce. The Moorish and Arabian merchants, +who everywhere, in perfect safety, frequent the markets of interior +Africa, may be made the ready instruments of diffusing commerce from the +great towns on the rivers to which European merchants, with their goods, +can have easy access into the more remote and inaccesible parts of the +continent. They are very honourable in their dealings, and there cannot +be a doubt, but that they would most cheerfully engage in conveying +European goods, from places on the rivers to towns at a distance from +their banks, rather than run the risk they now run, in transporting +goods through the fearful deserts and dangers that intervene between +Morocco, Fezzan, Tripoli, Egypt, and Sudan. All these merchants are well +acquainted with the country, inured to the climate, and conversant with +the different languages, even if Arabic were not generally understood in +Africa. They may thus be made most useful and active commercial agents. + +To give a farther illustration of the advantages to be derived from a +trade to Africa, I shall here adduce, from the authority of Mr. +Bowditch, the profits on that carried on between Cape Coast and +Coomassie, (capital of Ashantee,) and other places more into the +interior. The expence attending it must be considerable, when we reflect +that it is carried on by means of land carriage, through the immense +forests, and over the hills of Southern Africa. + + _India silk_ costs, at Cape Coast, L.4 per piece + of 11 yards, brings 5s. per span[9] at Coomassie, + and 20s. per fathom at Yahndi—profit 175 per cent. + + _Sarstracunda_ (highly glazed British cotton, of + bright red stripes, with a bar of white) at Cape + Coast 30s. per piece, at Coomassie 2s. 6d. per span 400 + + _Glasgow Dane_, 30s. Cape Coast, at Coomassie 5s. + per handkerchief 75 + + _Rum_, Cape Coast 10s. per gallon, Coomassie 7½d. + per dram 400 + + Flints, Cape Coast 5s. per 100, Coomassie 3d. each 600 + + _Tobacco_, (Portuguese,) Cape Coast L.6 per roll, + (42 fathoms) at Coomassie L.10 75 + + Ditto, at Inta 150 + + Gunpowder, Cape Coast L.4 per ¼ barrel 25 lbs., + at Coomassie 7½d. per charge of ¾ ounce 400 + + Iron, Cape Coast L.1 per bar, Coomassie 35s. 75 + + Ditto, Sallagha and Yahndi 60s. 200 + + _Lead_, the same + + _Spanish dollars_, 5s. Cape Coast, at both places + 10s. (two ackies) 100 + + Ditto, ditto, Sansanding, 25s. to 50s. 600 + +_Sal Amoniac_ is abundant in Dagwumba, and at Ashantee, 2s. will buy a +lump as big as a hen’s egg. Small Turkey and Mesurata carpets bring at +Coomassie 2 ounces gold, worth 75s. per ounce, or even L.4. The +Ashantees frequently give the governor of the Dutch forts 2 ounces of +gold for one roll of Portuguese tobacco. + +The nature and extent of the trade at the outset, under the settlement +and the regulations proposed, would be, _first_, the value of all the +trade at present carried on across the Desert. _Second_, the whole trade +at present carried on between Cape Lopez and Cape Palmas. _Third_, the +inland trade of Africa between place and place in commodities and wants +purely African, and particularly salt from the coast to the interior. +These three branches are at once placed in the power and under the +controul of those who can navigate and command the Niger and his +tributary streams. + +The value of the present trade into the interior of Africa cannot be +calculated with perfect accuracy. The trade from Morocco is about +1,000,000 dollars in exports annually. From all the other Barbary +States, from Mourzook, Egypt, Nubia, Darfur, &c. it is about three times +as much, in all one million Sterling from the North (chiefly) and from +the East. In the trade from Morocco the returns are said to be in some +instances ten to one, and, in general, that a capital of 5000 dollars +will be raised in two years to 20,000 dollars. The trade from Mourzook +must be in a similar proportion, and that from Egypt, according to +Burkhardt, yields from 150 to 500 per cent. each journey, according to +the nature of the articles carried to market. Slaves, however, are +chiefly the returns, at least those on which the profit is greatest; but +in the trade contemplated this would form no part, and consequently the +profits would not be in the same proportion. But, on the other hand, the +profits would be greatly increased, from the quickness of the returns, +and the reduced expences at which the trade would be conducted. The +British exports to Africa, (Cape of Good Hope included,) were, on an +average of three years, ending 1810, to the amount of L.830,000 +annually, and the imports, exclusive of gold dust, L.430,000. The +quantity of gold brought from the gold coast annually, is estimated to +amount to L.400,000. Since that period both the exports and the imports +are greatly increased. At least L.300,000 in imports, and as much in +exports, centre in those places where the projected establishments would +be placed. At present also the British trade to these places is greatly +reduced, because other nations, continuing the slave trade, which we +have abandoned, supply those places with a great quantity of goods which +would otherwise have come through our hands. The extent of this annually +it is difficult to estimate; but it is, perhaps, equal to our share of +the imports, and, exclusive of slaves, fully one-third of the exports of +African produce. + +To give a stronger and more correct idea of what might be the extent of +the trade in question, it is only necessary to point out, and to mention +the following fact. During the continuation of the slave trade, Great +Britain exported manufactures to Africa to the extent of L.1,000,000 +annually, entirely for the purpose of barter in that trade. It is not +too much to say that all the other European nations sent an equal amount +for the same purpose. One-half of all this certainly went to those +places situate between Cape Coast and the Rio de Gaboon, but principally +confined to that part of the coast from the Rio Lagos to the Rio Elrei. +From Bonny River alone, it is calculated 20,000 slaves were annually +exported by European nations. These would cost, at the lowest, L.10 +each. Thus, at least, L.1,000,000 of European goods were annually +imported into those parts of Africa where the Niger enters the Sea, the +greater part of which were intended for the consumpt of the nations +inland. The contemplated settlements would secure to Great Britain, and +that immediately, the whole of the trade mentioned, and the advantages +to be derived from African produce taken in exchange. + +This is the present trade with those parts of Africa. It would soon +increase greatly, and include the supply of all our West India colonies +with the finest descriptions of dry provisions, such as Indian corn, +rice, &c. and also with live-stock of every description, which are +indispensably necessary for the supply and health of our naval force and +garrisons in that quarter of the world. For all these we are at present +chiefly dependent upon a foreign and a rival power. Indian corn is the +finest of all food for Negroes. They prefer it to superfine flour. It is +found to be better for their health. In the West Indies we have 800,000 +slaves. These must require large supplies. From the United States we +formerly imported into these colonies annually 647,853 bushels of corn; +431,504 bushels meal and flour; and 9,393 bushels rice; altogether, +valued at L.440,000. The live-stock imported also cost a large sum, and, +altogether, the imports from America to the West Indies exceeded half a +million Sterling. Canada cannot supply these articles, because it does +not produce them. Africa could supply these, and at a cheaper rate; and +in return, take back rum, as the United States formerly did. + +Secondly, there would be an immense importation into this country of +cotton of the finest qualities, coffee, indigo, superior dye-stuffs, and +excellent timber, either for the purposes of ship-building or ornamental +furniture. Africa yields all these in abundance. The value and +advantages of all these it is impossible to calculate. To the United +States, and to the Brazils, we give annually six millions for cotton, +which Africa produces of a much finer quality. By obtaining it from +Africa we should thus be independent of either of these powers in case +of war, and not only so, but we should, by this means, if not deeply +injure their present establishments, at least completely check the +further extension of the cultivation of cotton in these countries, which +is one of the greatest sources of their wealth and their power. This, in +a political point of view, is of itself a matter of great consequence, +and a way of weakening a rival power of which no nation has any just +right to complain. The introduction of cotton from Africa to any extent, +would lower the value of the article from every other quarter, thereby +affording our manufacturers the raw material at a cheaper rate, which +must tend to the extension of their business, and, by cheapening, create +increased demands for their goods. The same may be said with regard to +coffee, sugar, and dye-stuffs. The advantages of a supply of ship- +timber, independent of any rival power, are too obvious to require +pointing out. + +Thirdly, under this head would be a trade to the Cape of Good Hope. The +northern settlement would take flour and wine from the southern, and, +through the Cape, a supply of East India goods, articles which are in +great request in Africa. The southern settlement would take back from +the northern, sugar, coffee, and various other articles, such as timber +for ship-building and other purposes, thereby mutually benefiting each +other, while the wealth of each must ultimately flow to the mother +country in increased demands upon her for various articles, which their +labour, capital, and soil, cannot produce. Fourthly, we should acquire +nearly all the trade to the Mediterranean with the Barbary powers, by +carrying to their doors, at a much cheaper rate, all the articles which +they are accustomed to procure from the interior of Africa. This +increased intercourse with Britain would tend greatly to soften the +asperity and fanaticism of their character, two things which so deeply +injure the moral and the natural features of this fine portion of +Africa. The severest laws of Mahomet would bend to interest, and honest +commerce has, in every age, proved a powerful instrument to civilize +mankind. + +From the previous enumeration, it would appear that the direct foreign +trade of this portion of Africa which would fall into our hands +immediately, is fully equal to three millions in imports and exports. +From the extent and populousness of the country itself, from the +fertility of the soil, the abundance of the precious metals, the +cheapness of provisions, and, above all, from the manners and pursuits +of a great multitude of the population being favourable to, and engaged +in, commercial concerns, there is no reason to doubt but that, under +prudent management and adequate protection, the trade, in a short time, +would be augmented to five times, nay, to ten times the sum. There +cannot be a doubt but that, in exploring, cultivating, and civilizing +the tropical regions of Africa, immense, and as yet hidden stores for +the benefit and advancement of manufactures, and commerce, and +agriculture, would develope themselves[10]. They know nothing of the +Torrid Zone who can think otherwise. Security will give the Africans +industry. Both will teach them wants, and when they find that these can +be gratified with safety, there can be no doubt respecting the result. + +Attention to every article of agriculture, and the demands occasioned +for these in the regular course of trade, would be found the most easy, +powerful, and effective engine which could be used to turn the attention +of the population of Africa to understand their true interests, and +consequently prove the most peaceable and expeditious mode of extending +knowledge and civilization amongst them. Without roads and regular means +of conveyance of goods and produce, such as we possess, the ignorant +despot of the interior will never think of making his slaves, or his +people, cultivate or transport produce of great bulk, and of laborious +and expensive carriage, in order to procure in exchange articles which +he requires, either for ornament or for use; produce too, which is +liable to be injured by the way, while, with a trifling labour, and at a +still more trifling expence, the slave can be compelled to walk to the +most distant market in order to be there sold and exchanged for +mercantile commodities, to gratify the passions of a barbarous master. +Nor have we any reason to expect any change while cut off from all ready +communication with any enlightened nation, and not only so, but, on the +contrary, everywhere surrounded by fanatic powers, whose interest and +whose policy it is to teach, and encourage these sovereigns to follow an +opposite course. It can tend to little advantage to cut off a foreign +slave-trade, (granting that could be made effectual,) unless we teach +the Africans how to employ their slaves in a more useful and profitable +manner. Unless we do this, the abolition of the foreign slave-trade will +only tend to secure a greater number of wretched victims for those +bloody “_Customs_,” and wholesale butcheries under the name of +sacrifices, which are so frequent in many parts of Africa. + +This detestable traffic must be gradually, that it may be wholly and +entirely abolished, not only between Africa and foreign countries, but +in Africa between state and state. To accomplish this end effectually, +it is necessary also to destroy that grovelling superstition which +disgraces human nature in Africa, and which binds the minds of prince +and people in the worst and most ruinous of all bondage. In fact, it is +this which leads to personal slavery, and every evil which afflicts +Africa. Till the chains of superstition are broken asunder, neither the +fetters of slavery, nor the yoke of the slave-trade ever will. The +introduction of Christianity will dispel the terrors of the one, and its +benign influence root out and remove the horrors of the other. Nothing +else can accomplish the object. It is in our power to do this. The +blessings and the benefits which, by the exertions of men from other +countries, were first conferred upon us, we are bound to diffuse amongst +other nations who remain deprived of them. It is on this sure basis, the +introduction of true religion, and the education of young and old in its +principles and its duties, that we must build the fabric of our dominion +and our fame in Africa. Every other means will prove a foundation of +“sand,” which each flood of human passions will sweep away. But, erected +on the rock of Christianity, the foundation of our power in Africa will +be impregnable, and our dominions spread invulnerable against every +assailing foe. Christianity is the great enlightener and softener of +human nature. Power directed by its principles can never fail of +stability. + +Let us proceed: we have nothing to fear. The whole civilized world is on +our side. Our immediate interference is necessary to rescue Africa from +severer afflictions and deeper woes than any she has previously endured. +The accounts from every quarter are most deplorable, calamitous, and +distressing. The slave-trade is stalking abroad with more appalling +steps than ever. Since the abolition of Christian slavery by the Barbary +States, their fury and their cupidity is directed, as might have been +foreseen, to the unhappy population of the interior. The latest accounts +from these places are most distressing. Havoc and ruin, pillage and +desolation, are marching in awful array over all northern Sudan, and +whole tribes are driven away into slavery by the ruthless Moor and +unprincipled Arab. Powerful assistance and protection can only terminate +this dreadful state of anarchy, distraction, and misery, into which +Africa is so deeply plunged. These alone can check those frightful +evils, and bring peace, security, and happiness, to Africa. Let us plant +our standard, the standard of liberty, peace, and order, in her bosom, +wherever our power can be most commanding, and by good deeds, acts of +kindness, and protection, let us draw them to be our willing subjects, +and then we shall see what power in Africa or elsewhere will dare to +make slaves of them—to steal—to buy—or to sell their children any more. + +Not only our duty, but our interests, require of us prompt and decisive +measures on this subject, and on this occasion. It is the continued +extension of the slave-trade which is proving the deepest injury to our +West India colonies, and unless it is checked, the further continuance +of it will cover all these colonies with ruin. The vast quantities of +sugar, coffee, and cotton, which the United States, the Spanish and the +Portuguese possessions are now raising, and the cheap rates at which +these are produced from the continued importation of slaves, has driven +our West India merchants out of every market on the Continent. It is in +vain to speak about stopping a trade where individual and national +interest are so much concerned, while all Africa is ready also to +welcome any who embark in it, and while we pay such enormous sums +annually to purchase that very produce, (cotton in particular,) which is +raised by the labour of the slaves thus introduced. The united navies of +Europe, and all the laws which the nations in it can pass, will fail in +effecting the desirable object. British capital and industry thus +strongly, though indirectly, carries on the slave-trade; for it is the +interests of the governments, deriving so much benefit from its +continuation, to wink at the conduct of their subjects who engage in it. +There seems, therefore, no way to stop this trade effectually, and by so +doing secure the prosperity of our West India possessions, but by +colonizing interior Africa, and teaching and commanding the population +there to abandon this disgraceful and abominable traffic. + +Every object here pointed out can be carried into effect without +trenching, in the smallest degree, upon the immediate rights and +interests of any civilized nation upon earth. The advantages which +Africa would derive from such measures cannot escape the notice of the +most thoughtless. There cannot be a doubt of the rapid growth and +extension of such a connexion and such a commerce. Whatever benefits +Africa derived from it, would be returned upon us with double interest. +Those who are acquainted with the character of Negroes, know how eagerly +they seek after our cotton manufactures, particularly showey prints, &c. +both for the purposes of ordinary use, and ornament upon festive +occasions. They are all, particularly the females, fond of shew, and the +outlet which would thus be created for the manufactures of Sheffield and +Birmingham, Manchester, Glasgow, and Paisley, would be prodigious. The +profits of such a trade also are not to be calculated by the scale of +that trade carried on from Sierra Leone and the countries on the Gold +Coast. The former place is inhabited chiefly by captured Negroes, the +refuse of Africa, savage, poor, idle, and indolent, and from it there is +no conveyance by water into the mountainous interior, while the latter +are occupied by a population, harassed, oppressed, and plundered, by +some petty or higher despot. At the same time, they have no extensive +communication with the wealthier countries in the interior. The trade +proposed and contemplated will, and it is obvious must, have a wider +range, greater facilities, and a securer foundation. + +It is a point of the utmost importance, and a subject which requires the +deepest consideration, to determine the best mode of establishing a +commercial intercourse with Africa, that shall prove advantageous and +permanent. The following views of the subject present themselves to our +consideration. The first is a direct trade with the natives of the +different countries in the interior, conducted in a similar manner as +other branches of commerce are carried on betwixt this country and other +independent nations. Taking the formation of the trade in this point of +view, we should merely have commercial without any political +establishments. Thus situated, we must depend upon the native powers in +whatever country our mercantile establishments are formed for justice +and protection; and to the power and interference of our own country for +redress, if, in course of our transactions, justice is denied or +protection withdrawn. Amidst a barbarous people, such occurrences may be +expected; while, before punishment is inflicted, the wrong is committed +which will undermine the security of all commercial intercourse. Under +such circumstances also, we ought not to interfere, and have no right to +interfere, in any shape, with any of the present institutions +established in the interior, whether these be civil or religious. Thus +situated, the trade must continue on the same footing, and consequently +on the same insecure and limited scale which it has hitherto done during +the lapse of so many centuries, and continue to be subject to all the +vexatious delays and extortions with which the capricious tyranny of the +rude and ignorant despots of Africa may choose to load it. A trade so +insecure and liable to so many unfavourable contingencies, cannot +possibly be profitable to any one, and consequently could not be +durable. Under such a system, there could be no rational hope of any +speedy improvement amongst the population of Africa, which improvement +can only give extension and permanency to the trade. No doubt, a +legitimate commerce, carried on with Africa would, in time, tend to open +the eyes of both the princes and the people to their true interests; but +the progress thereof, under the most favourable circumstances, must +necessarily be very slow; while so many obstructions lie in the way, so +many difficulties under this mode of proceeding would remain to be +overcome, and so many untoward circumstances may take place, as might +very readily deter European merchants from prosecuting a trade under so +many difficulties, and at last induce them to discontinue it altogether. +Besides, foreign nations would participate in this trade. Conflicting +European interests would be transplanted into the heart of Africa, and +add to all those jealousies, the rivalry, and those distractions which +already so grievously afflict and torment her. + +The second view of the subject, which occurs for our consideration in +the establishment of this trade is, by colonization and conquest; for in +Africa the latter would necessarily, and speedily, and extensively, +follow the former. Under these circumstances, the trade contemplated +might safely be left free to the capital and industry of any British +merchant or subject who might choose to engage in it. All that would be +necessary in this case, in order to secure the most beneficial results +to this country and to Africa, would be to prevent foreign nations from +participating in this trade upon equal terms. At the outset, individuals +might lose in this trade. The markets might, and in all probability +would, be overstocked with supplies, both such as are proper and such as +are improper; such as are calculated for the present wants of the +natives, and such as are not calculated for that purpose. The loss, +however, thus occasioned, would not be a national loss. Foreigners would +derive no benefit therefrom. What one British subject lost another would +gain, and in time every thing would be reduced to order. The supply +would be suited to the demand, and the competition would be confined to +those articles which are best adapted to the market. The capital and +industry of all would have a fair, open, and honourable field for +exertion. Under such circumstances, it might be most advisable to lay +open, establish, and carry on the trade contemplated. This mode would +certainly be most consonant to the present feelings of the population of +the British Empire: but I am not sure, and indeed have strong doubts, if +it would prove soonest and most extensively beneficial, either to this +country or to Africa. The situation and interests of the latter must +never be lost sight of, because it is only by bettering or improving her +condition that we can greatly benefit ourselves. + +The next mode of establishing this trade is under a chartered company. +This may be done after the manner of the East India Company. In +duration, however, it may and ought to be greatly limited, so as to +render it expedient for those to whom it is granted to carry on the +trade with energy, in order to reap every possible advantage from it, +and that it may not be left to languish, as might be the case, if the +period was greatly extended. On the other hand, the duration of it ought +not to be narrowed too much, otherwise that circumstance would tend to +discourage the merchant, and prevent him from laying out money at the +first outset, to any considerable extent, or from embarking in the trade +with that energy and vigour which could only render it productive and +successful, or reimburse him for his labour expended and capital +advanced. Perhaps 15 years might be a very fair period for the duration +of such a charter. With diligence and activity, the time mentioned would +render it an object well worth the attention of mercantile men, and +nothing more than the encouragement which the nation ought to give for +the labour in forming, or I may say creating, a commerce which is +altogether new to this country, from which, through the individuals +engaged in it, the nation derives immediate benefit, and lays, in the +only way in which it can be securely laid, the foundation of a trade, +from which the whole nation may fairly anticipate, and are certain to +derive, at a future period, still greater advantages. + +A charter, for the purpose contemplated, may either be extended or +reduced, in regard to the numbers and capital engaged in it, as may be +found most eligible or necessary. As the nature of the commerce in view, +both as regards exports and imports, will naturally confine itself to +the three chief commercial ports of this kingdom, namely, London, +Liverpool, and Glasgow, and that in nearly equal proportions, so the +charter may be granted to an extent proportionate to the magnitude of +each of these places, and in a manner such as those merchants who are +inclined to embark in it may regulate and determine. Their interest +would lead them to choose the port which would prove the most conducive +thereto, from whence they could send supplies, and to which they would +direct the returns to be made. A power might be vested in the Board of +Trade to examine into the general management of the chartered company, +and to regulate these upon the strict principles of national justice and +national advantage. + +A charter for the purposes mentioned, and under such circumstances, can +scarcely be called a monopoly. It is indeed an exclusive privilege in +trade, but then this exclusive privilege is for a trade yet to be +formed—a trade which neither this country, nor any other civilized +nation, are, or have previously, been in possession of—a trade, which it +is a very doubtful case if this country ever could possess, (certainly +not so soon, if at all,) to the extent to which she would command it, if +gone into under the regulations and privileges recommended. No +legislative interference with, or burthens imposed upon, any other +settlement in Africa, is required or expected. It is not solicited or +contemplated, that the produce of any other country or colony should be +prohibited from entering, or be taxed upon its entering, any of the +ports of Great Britain, (the great and most objectionable features in +other charters,) in order to enhance the value of, or insure a +preference in, the consumption of any articles which may be brought from +Africa under the privilege here recommended. No prohibitive or +protecting laws in any branch of commerce are thought of. On the +contrary, it is proper, and it is expected, that all branches thereof +should be left free and open to the competition of capital, skill, and +industry. + +The judicious application of charters is one thing, and the injudicious +grant of them another. To a trade carried on with any civilized country, +every exclusive privilege is injurious. The reason is obvious. There +law, justice, and order prevail. Every individual is equally protected, +and no evil consequences can result from competing interests. To an +uncultivated and uninhabited country, similar regulations are equally, +if not more injurious, because the prosperity and advancement of the +same, in every branch of improvement, depends upon the ability, caprice, +liberality, capital, credit, and judgment—the good or bad fortune of +those who obtain such an exclusive privilege. With a populous, but a +barbarous country, incapable of organizing any thing that is stable or +advantageous for itself or its neighbours, a very different line of +conduct is rendered necessary. Without a chartered company, Great +Britain never could have achieved what she has done in India, nor reared +such a noble fabric of commerce and civil government as she has there +done. Yet when Britain entered that part of the world, India was peopled +by civilized nations. Compared to what the inhabitants of India were, +the people of Africa are rude barbarians. Compared to what the +population of India are now become, the inhabitants of central Africa +are mere savages. It may be for the greater advantage of Great Britain +and of India, that the trade to the latter should now be thrown open, +but it never could have been for the interest of either that this should +have taken place at an earlier period. The situation of Africa, however, +is totally different. There every thing is to do. Regular commerce is to +be created. Society is almost altogether to be formed. Security and +civilization, law, order, and religion, are each and all yet to be +introduced into and planted in Africa. Unity of action and design, +therefore, becomes absolutely necessary to accomplish all these +desirable objects. Conflicting interests, amidst such a disjointed +population, must, and will, indefinitely retard it. A charter is clearly +and indispensably necessary, in order to conduct mercantile affairs to a +prosperous issue—in order to regulate the supply, to explore the +country, and find out the proper markets—to negotiate, as an +irresistible and stable power, with the native princes—to purchase +lands, to protect trade, to punish aggression—to rear up, gradually an +empire in Africa, such as has been done in India, against which no +native power shall be able to raise its head. Then, but not till then, +the trade may be thrown open, but the territorial power of the charter +may, as in India, remain. + +Without such regulations for a time, there is too good reason to dread +that our connection with Africa will never be more than the transient +visitations of insulated merchants acting without concert—often contrary +to one another—glutting the markets, pouring in ill-timed and improper +supplies—raising the price of native produce above its value, and +depressing each other’s commodities; in short, strengthening the hands +of the native tyrants, and enabling them more easily to dictate hard +terms to commerce, to shut up the interior altogether, and to enable +barbarous hands, or savage life, still to hold the balance in that ill- +fated country. The whole of our establishments on the coasts of Tropical +Africa, afford, at this moment, a sad confirmation, and striking +illustration of these important truths. If this erroneous policy in +their intercourse with Africa is still to be continued by European +powers, then, to the latest period of time, the central and southern +parts of that vast continent are doomed to remain in the same deplorable +state of ignorance, degradation, and misery, which has been their lot +during the lapse of 3000 years. + +No doubt the capital, skill, and industry of British merchants, can do +much, and overcome difficulties which perhaps the merchants of no other +nation can. If government established powerful settlements in Africa, +and rendered Great Britain respected, feared, and obeyed, then there +could be no danger with regard to the ultimate success of the trade, +though laid open to all. But, in this case, a very considerable expence +must be incurred by the nation, without any adequate or immediate +return; whereas, in the other case, that return, and the expense +incurred for protection, would go hand in hand. The question for the +consideration and decision of government in this case, is, which method +will prove the most secure and permanent, and soonest become the most +beneficial to individuals and to the national interests, and at the +least possible outlay or expense? The plan that can accomplish these +things, is that which should be chosen, and acted upon without +hesitation or reserve. For the reasons already mentioned, as well as for +various others too tedious to enumerate, a chartered company for a +limited time seems the most advisable way to enter upon and establish +the contemplated trade. On such an important point, however, I would +wish it to be understood, that the opinion here given is adduced with +great deference. + +The trade to Central Africa ought to belong exclusively to the subjects +and the people of Great Britain. Every article which the people on the +Niger can require for convenience, ornament, or use— all implements of +agriculture—all articles for domestic purposes—for dress, for +navigation, commerce, manufactures, science—in short, every thing that a +population advancing from the rudest state of society, through all the +intervening stages to the most enlightened, can want, are almost +exclusively the productions of the British soil, or of British industry. +Our finer manufactures would be chiefly sought after for the light +dresses adapted for the climate; but the coarser and the warmer would in +some instances also be sought after, by those people who live amidst the +African Andes. Where the fine and costly manufactures of other nations +were in request, then, coming through our hands, we should make it more +their interest to be on friendly terms with us. If the trade to Interior +Africa, carried on by barbarians, with our goods sold to them in the +first instance at a fair price, and then carried thither by them, +subject to all the danger, delay, expense, exactions, and robberies, +which unprincipled despots, and lawless freebooters heap upon them—if +this trade yield them such extensive profits as it really does, what +must the British merchant gain who can carry these goods from the first +hand, at the first cost, and land these at Timbuctoo almost as cheap as +they can at present be landed at Mogadore, Algiers, Tunis, or Tripoli? +How much could he under-sell both the Moor and the Arab, either in the +imports to the interior, or the exports from it, while his goods would +at all times arrive at their destined market in a state superior to what +it is possible theirs at present can now do? Besides, the conveyance by +water would enable us to carry many articles to those markets which, +from the nature of the articles, cannot possibly now be got transported +into the interior by land carriage. + +A trade such as that contemplated, may employ a capital of any extent; +but at the outset, under a company, there is no necessity for its being +great. On the contrary, it is evident, that from the situation in which +Africa is, the trade, to do good to any party, must feel its way—must +make itself. The articles which would be chiefly exported in its early +stages, would be of the coarser and cheaper kinds, and the returns of a +description that will command a ready market. Small vessels, both for +expedition in the voyages, and also for navigating the rivers, would be +the best in the commencement of the undertaking. Indeed, till the latter +are completely explored, small vessels are indispensable. Some time must +elapse before all these points can be fully known. Till then, it is +evident the trade cannot be forced, while, at the outset, it may very +readily be overdone. + +In an undertaking of this kind the countenance and support of government +is absolutely necessary, in order to induce merchants of capital, +credit, and character, to embark in it. To be done correctly and +advantageously, every thing must emanate from one source in Africa, +whether it regards civil government or commerce. Unity in design, and +obedience to the dictates of one authority, can alone render the present +plan completely successful. The reasons urged against the exclusive +privilege of trade to a civilized state do not apply in this instance. +The trade, open to all, would create conflicting interests, which would +retard and endanger, if not altogether prevent the accomplishment of the +grand, the ultimate object in view. Besides, it is one thing to embark +in a trade to a country where civilization, law, and justice prevail, +and another to engage in one to a country where all those things are yet +to be formed. The latter requires an exclusive privilege to induce and +protect the adventurers, while the trade, in the same or similar +articles with other parts of the world, remaining upon its present +footing, or without any preference to either, will always prevent the +apparent monopoly from injuring the general interests of the parent +state by exorbitant prices, while the competition they have to meet with +from other markets, would compel the merchants engaged in the trade with +Africa, to be diligent, prudent, and industrious. Unless such a +privilege were granted, there is too much reason to dread, that every +object at present contemplated will fail, and that the nation, as well +as individuals, will thereby sustain a great and irreparable loss. +Conflicting interests also would lower us in the eyes of the natives, +and prevent us from acquiring and maintaining that superiority in Africa +indispensably necessary for our protection, and for her civilization and +improvement. In Africa, as in India, opinion gives power. Without power +in Africa we could not effect any thing. + +The persons to be employed under government in these parts should be men +who are willing to serve their country for their country’s good. They +ought to be amply remunerated for their services, and their public duty +ought not to be forgotten or sacrificed for private emolument. Their +business and their duty is to see justice impartially administered to +all, and to raise the honour and fame of their country on a sure and a +permanent basis. The settlement must, for as short a time as possible, +be rendered burthensome to Great Britain. Africa is to receive the +benefit, and ought to and must defray the expence. All expences +attending civil and military establishments must be borne by Africa. A +trifling tax imposed upon the property of the country under our +controul, would be adequate for this purpose, as, at the outset, these +need not be large. As these increased, Africa, from the benefits +received, would be more able to defray the additional expence. A tenth—a +twentieth part of what the population of Africa now pay to those from +whom she receives no benefit whatever, would now, and, at any future +period, be more than sufficient for this purpose. The blessings of good +government, true religion, peace, and security, would by this tribute be +cheaply purchased. + +All expences, merely commercial, or in any way relating thereto, such as +travelling expences for agents, salaries for servants in the employ of +the company, or for the furtherance of any object connected with their +immediate and exclusive interest, ought to be borne by the mercantile +body engaged in the undertaking. A public fund should be set apart to +defray the expences of exploring the country, in order to form +connections and establishments in more distant parts thereof. But as +this tends to the benefit of this nation—of Great Britain and Africa, an +allowance (till the revenue of the latter can defray the expence) should +be made out of the public purse to the mercantile body for this purpose, +government having the power to require satisfactory information how the +money has been expended. The interest of the merchant would induce him +to pay liberally, and, at the same time, to proceed economically. In all +undertakings of this kind, mercantile men can prevent or rectify abuses +easier than any government can do, and, therefore, it becomes more +proper to bestow upon them such an authority, and such an exclusive +privilege, as is here pointed out. + +The expence of embassies to the courts of the native powers, which ought +to be frequent, should be borne by Britain at the outset, and afterwards +by the colonial government. The former ought to lend her name and +authority to individuals resident in large cities as consuls or persons +exploring the country, thereby conferring upon all these persons a +degree of importance highly necessary in Africa, and which would not +fail to claim respect from the sovereigns and the people. In all the +chief towns men of this description should, as soon as possible, be +placed, in order to gain the most correct knowledge of the country, its +productions and wants, and to buy, sell, receive, or send off these +productions and supplies, to the general depot where these articles are +directed to be collected in their voyage to, or from Europe, and other +places. This mode of proceeding would sooner teach the natives the value +and utility of their productions and their labour. + +The concern being for the general benefit of the nation, should, from +the outset, receive the cordial and unremitting attention and support of +the nation. In all matters, either civil or political, every +establishment must be under the controul of the British government. In +political matters and civil government, none must lift a hand or a foot +in Africa without permission from it. In every thing relating to +commercial affairs, the direction and management must remain entirely in +the hands of the company and its servants, while, at the same time, the +servants of government must be instructed to render the merchants every +protection and assistance requisite to prosecute and extend the trade. +This company, by their charter, ought to have the power to extend their +capital as they may see necessary. This capital may consist of +transferable shares. These shares may be smaller or larger, as may be +judged most convenient. The smaller, however, the better, as it will +give a greater number of persons an opportunity to engage in the +undertaking, and thus create a greater interest in the mother country +for the welfare and prosperity of these African Colonies. Government, in +the first instance, must be at the expence of every outlay for permanent +military establishments, such as proper fortifications and adequate +garrisons; but both the principal and the interest of the outlay ought, +as soon as possible, to be paid from the proceeds of internal taxation, +laid on such things as may be found most eligible. All regulations, +laws, and measures for the government of these colonies, must be formed +by the British Government and Legislature, or subject to their approval +and revisal, always, however, restricted, (could that be supposed +necessary,) in so far as these shall not militate against the interests +of the company or main object of the undertaking. + +Provision should be made in every place for the teachers of religion, +and the instructors of youth. A fixed revenue should be raised and +appropriated for this purpose; and it is the people of Africa, and +others who may derive benefit from it, who should defray the expence. +The superstition which degrades and debases Africa must be vanquished by +the spirit and the precepts of the Gospel; and the other, namely, human +sacrifices, wherever we may find these, be prevented by the arm of +power, if necessary. No expence ought to be spared to accomplish these +objects. In this the authority of the company and of the government +should go hand in hand. The blessings of the British constitution should +be gradually extended to the colonists, as their intelligence, power, +and resources increase. At the outset this could not be done with +safety. Justice, however, must be most carefully administered; and in +every thing, Europeans must set a good example, that the liberty +bestowed upon the African population may not be construed by them as a +path to licentiousness. All kinds of African produce and commodities +should be admitted into Great Britain and her other colonies, upon the +same terms as those articles are admitted from other places, with the +exception of sugar, the great staple of our West India Islands, where so +much British capital is vested, and whose cultivation is so expensive. A +considerable time, however, must elapse before any establishment could +be formed in Africa to cultivate sugar to an extent which could affect +the market. There are other points for regulation, which a due +consideration of this important subject, in all its bearings, and the +wisdom and liberality of the British government, will, either now, or in +due time, supply. Having thought much and long on the subject, I only +hint at this with due deference to the opinion of the government and of +the public. + +Minor criminals, who are sentenced to be transported from Great Britain, +may be sent to Africa to aid in colonizing it. The punishment also of +many offences against our laws, such as theft, house-breaking, forgery, +&c. when these are not attended with the most aggravating circumstances, +and which are at present capital, may be commuted into banishment to an +African colony. Many, very many of those unhappy individuals who forfeit +their character and lives to the violated laws of their country, and +many who are expatriated from it, are not destitute of talents, and, if +spared, might become useful members of society. In Africa, from +necessity, they must become sober and industrious, or they would soon +end their days. But if they behaved well, they might become greatly +serviceable to their country, to themselves, and to mankind. In Europe, +the remembrance of errors stamps an inferiority upon them in the eyes of +every one, and which too often overcomes every resolution of amendment, +and, considering themselves proscribed outcasts, they are hurried +headlong into the commission of greater crimes. Removed, however, into +the midst of a population such as are in Africa, they would assume an +importance in their own eyes, which would act as a stimulus to keep them +in the paths of virtue. They would see human nature degraded below them, +and men more ignorant and rude than themselves. They would feel their +superiority. They would strive to maintain it. By doing good to others, +which they would then have in their power, the better disposed would +endeavour to make amends for the injuries which they had previously +inflicted upon society. The worst amongst them could still teach +multitudes in Africa much useful knowledge. Removed from the scenes of +their folly and their crimes, and the inducements which led to these, +there would be few, indeed, who would not strive to retrieve their +characters and their fortunes. + +For a first offence, expatriation from friends, country, and civilized +society, is, and must be, the severest punishment: removed to Africa +must prove particularly severe. Let the condition of their restoration +to society be their merits, activity, and character in Africa. It is our +duty to reclaim, more than to punish—to restore, rather than to cut off +a member from society. In this we follow, and, ought to follow, the +footsteps of him who came to seek and to save—to preserve, not to +destroy those who had erred. Perhaps 1000 convicts annually might be +sent from Great Britain to Africa—1000, every one of whom might, under +judicious authority, in some degree be made instrumental, in places of +the greatest danger, to teach useful knowledge to the ignorant African. +Under the controlling authority established there, the convict, from the +hopes of forgiveness and restoration to a better rank in the scale of +society, would be led to amend his own life, and reclaim the most +degraded and benighted of his fellow creatures. All, perhaps, would not +act such a part. But many would. If, however, this plan succeeded in +reclaiming five out of ten, and in making these outcasts from British +society the instruments of instructing Africa in any of the arts and +labours of civilized life, how great is the good that will thereby be +effected! + +In this voyage (if I may use the expression) for the improvement of +Africa, there are two fatal rocks which we must carefully avoid, if we +wish to escape shipwreck. The first is, that, although the precious +metals (gold in particular) abound in Africa, still we must take care to +direct the exertions of her people to those labours of greater +importance, the profits of which can, at all times, command the precious +metals, and which productions ought, in this case, as well as in every +other, to be only a secondary object. The next is, we ought not to go to +Africa with the rooted idea, that it was Europeans who occasioned +slavery, and created a slave trade in, and with, Africa. If we adopt +this erroneous opinion, in order to act upon it, we shall never take the +right path or proper means to root out the one, or to destroy the other. +It is Africa herself, as has already been remarked, that is the great +root of the evil, though her guilt does not constitute European +innocence, wherever the latter has participated in, or yet continues the +traffic. + +The climate of Africa is not worse than in other tropical regions of the +earth, particularly the coast of America from the Rio Bravo to Rio de +Janeiro. On the contrary, about the mouths of the Orinoco, and all along +the coast to the mouth of the Maranon, it is more unhealthy than any +part of the coast of Africa in the neighbourhood of Benin and Biafra. +With proper attention in forming settlements, healthy spots may be +found. It is quite evident, that, in the interior of Africa, such places +must be numerous, and that, freed from the noxious vapours so prevalent +about the mouths of rivers on the coasts, the greatest danger to the +health of Europeans would be the sudden transitions from heat to cold, +which must occur among the prodigious mountains of Africa. The heat, on +these coasts, is by no means oppressive or so great as in other places. +The sky is much obscured with clouds, which mitigate the heat greatly. +With care, these regions of Africa offer no greater objections to +forming settlements in them than many other places so eagerly coveted by +Europeans, and so widely colonized. + + +I have thus, though feebly I confess, in comparison to the magnitude of +the subject brought forward, completed the object which I had in view, +namely, to call the attention of the British government, and the power +and energies of our people, to an honour of the first rank, and, at the +same time, endeavoured to rouse the resources and enterprize of our +merchants to engage in a trade of the first magnitude. By means of the +Niger and his tributary streams, it is quite evident, that the whole +trade of Central Africa may be rendered exclusively and permanently our +own. The object, at all times of the highest importance, is, at the +present moment, become more particularly so. The feelings and the +efforts of this great nation would most cheerfully embark in the +enterprize. To support and carry into execution the measures necessary +to accomplish this undertaking is worthy of the ministry of Great +Britain, and worthy of the first country of the world. It will confer +immortal honour on our native land—lasting glory on the name and reign +of George the Fourth—bring immense and permanent advantages to Britain, +and bestow incalculable blessings and benefits on Africa. Agriculture, +and manufactures, and commerce, and learning, and religion, will spread +rapidly and widely over a country abounding in the richest productions, +whether on the surface of the earth or below it, but, at present, a +country overspread with the most abject servitude, and sunk in the +deepest ignorance, superstition, and barbarity. Every obstacle will +vanish before judicious and patient exertions. The glory of our +Creator—the good of mankind—the prosperity of our own country—the +interest of the present, and the welfare of future generations—glory, +honour, interest, call us, and, united, point out the sure path to gain +the important end. Let but the noble Union Ensign wave over and be +planted by the stream of the mighty Niger, and the deepest wounds of +Africa are healed. Round it, and to it, the nations from Balia to +Darfur, from Asben to Benin, would gather for safety and protection—the +slave would burst his fetters, and the slave trade be heard of no more. +The road to effect this is open— It is safe—It will soon be occupied by +others; and, if we hesitate, the glory and the advantages will be +wrested from our hands. + + FINIS. + + + * * * * * + _Printed by Balfour & Clarke, + Edinburgh_, 1821. + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: There is some reason to believe that the Latitude as here +given, may have been transposed in transcribing, and thus the Latitude +placed for the Longitude. But, having no access to any copy but one, I +have not the means of ascertaining this point. If this transposition has +taken place, then the Sagapola Mountains would be a continuation of the +Usargala Mountains, and a chain extending on the south side of the +desert, till it joined Mount Mandrus. On the other hand, as the river +Subos, which enters the sea in 29° North Lat. is said by Ptolemy to flow +from those mountains, it would fix them as being part of the grand chain +of Mount Atlas.] + +[Footnote 2: I strongly suspect that the longitude here has also been +transposed for the latitude.] + +[Footnote 3: Verum recentiores Melli regnum claudunt à meridie +Melligetico littore, quo ab regno Melli regnam nomen accepisse +contendunt. Ceterum Melligetam terminant ab oriente promontorio +Palmarium à meridie autem oceano. (Geog. Joannis Blaev. pars tertia, p. +121. Amsterdam, 1662.)] + +[Footnote 4: The country of the negroes is called by the Arabs Belad el +Abeed, (Country of Slaves,) and Belad el Genewa, the same as Djenawa. +(Geog. Joannis Blaev. pars tertia, p. 101. Amsterdam, 1662.)] + +[Footnote 5: P. 21. Regnum hoc multis Guineæ insignitum vocabulo, +diversumque a vasta illa Guineæ regione quæ meridium versus ultra Gago +Guberque est regna, mercatoribus Afris, Leone teste, Genehoa; Arabibus, +Marmolio auctore, Genewa; incolis autem Genni seu Genee appellatur. +(Geog. Joannis Blaev, pars tertia, p. 104. Amsterdam, 1662.)] + +[Footnote 6: In the Encyc. Brit. 5th edition, Gago is said to be +situated south of Timbuctoo and Houssa, and near a range of hills that +run from east to west, from whence issue many rivers that flow north to +the Niger. South of Gago is Dahomy.] + +[Footnote 7: “Ab Orientes montes, qui in Deserta quædam procurrint; a +Septentrionibus autema lios quodam montes permeandos ad Guineæ +Mellegeticumque littus ituris,” p. 122.] + +[Footnote 8: It is a curious fact, that at Coomassie, the capital of +Ashantee, Bowditch met with a very intelligent Arab, who had witnessed +the battle of Aboukir. He particularly mentioned the blowing up of the +L’Orient, and at the very hour (10 P.M.) that it took place. He was at +Cairo at that time when the French army, he says, came, ill-treated +every one, “took all, and paid for nothing;” and he was there when the +British army, with the Turkish force, drove them away. The British +treated every person well, and paid for every thing. Such were his +accounts, which, as we know well, are perfectly accurate.] + +[Footnote 9: A span is 9 inches; 8 spans to a fathom. In Inta only 6 to +the fathom.] + +[Footnote 10: With the parts to which the trade is at present +contemplated, the Romans and Egyptians, in the days of Ptolemy, seem to +have been well acquainted. Of Africa he says, “Est autem illa pars mundi +quæ Aphrica dicitur minor spacie quam Asiæ vel Europa: sed pro sua +quantitate ditior est et mirabilior in quantitate. Nam in auro et gemmis +ditissima, est similitur in frugibus, fructibus et olinis. Mirabilissima +etiam producit bestiarum et hominem species et figuras,” &c.] + + + + +Transcriber's note: + + + The changes in the ERRATA regarding the text have been made. + + pg 1, Changed: "_by Ptolemy, Ednisi_" to: "_Edrisi_" + + pg 1, Changed: "_Sheabiddin, Macknisi, Batouta_" to: "_Mackrisi_" + + pg 13, Added ” after "sunt Gir et Niger." + + pg 14, Changed: "Arabian chroniclers, viz. Bukri and Mishundi" + to: "Mishuudi" + + pg 32, Changed: "the kingom of Melli was situated" to: "kingdom" + + pg 36, Changed: "Abulfeda also confirms is account" to: "this" + + pg 40, footnote 5, Changed: "Amsterdam, 1669." to: "1662" + + pg 42, Changed: "once powerful kingom of Eyeo" to: "kingdom" + + pg 89, Changed: "9° 30′ east longitnde" to: "longitude" + + pg 102, Changed: "river coutinue westward to Kassena" to: "continue" + + pg 103, Changed: "where the ferrry men reside" to: "ferry" + + pg 109, Changed: "will be beween Cano and Kashna" to: "between" + + pg 123, Changed: "when the “_the water ran_" to: + "when “_the water ran_" + + pg 167, Changed: "and 0′ 45′ west longitude" to: "0° 45′" + + pg 168, Changed: "mouth of of the Rio Volta" to: "mouth of the" + + pg 172, Changed: "Yahndi in north latitude 8° 38°" to: "8° 38′" + + pg 174, Changed: "calculate the advaatages that would" to: + "advantages" + + pg 177, Changed: "us the monoply of the trade" to: "monopoly" + + pg 179, Changed: "empire can so well mantain" to: "maintain" + + pg 234, Changed: "from the tribes of Tihesti" to: "Tibesti" + + pg 246, Changed: "value of all Euro-ropean goods greater" to: + "European" + + pg 272, Changed: "connection with Af-frica will never" to: "Africa" + + pg 277, Changed: "prevent the apparent monoply" to: "monopoly" + + Additionally, some changes in punctuation have been done silently. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78384 *** |