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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78792 ***
+ JOURNAL
+ OF AN
+ EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE COURSE AND
+ TERMINATION OF THE NIGER.
+
+
+[Illustration: JOHN LANDER
+
+_London. Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, 1832._]
+
+
+ JOURNAL
+ OF
+ AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE COURSE
+ AND TERMINATION
+ OF
+ THE NIGER;
+ WITH A
+ NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE DOWN THAT RIVER
+ TO ITS TERMINATION.
+
+ BY
+ RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ _IN THREE VOLUMES._
+
+ ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS AND MAPS.
+
+ VOL. II.
+
+ LONDON:
+ JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
+ * * * * *
+ MDCCCXXXII.
+
+
+ LONDON:
+ Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES,
+ Stamford Street.
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS
+ OF
+ VOLUME THE SECOND.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ Page.
+
+ The Widow Zuma — Present to the King — Visit to the Niger — 1
+ The King of Boossà, and Midikie — Object of the mission
+ explained — The tobe of Park recovered — Park’s Papers —
+ Boossà described — Resources of the Country — One of Park’s
+ books discovered — Equity of the King — The hostess —
+ Departure from Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the
+ Niger — Description of the River — Village of Sooloo — Rocky
+ Barrier — Arrival at Yàoorie.
+
+ CHAPTER IX.
+
+ Remarks on the River — Intelligence of the fate of Mr. Park 33
+ — His Gun obtained — Visit to the Sultan — Unsuccessful
+ Application for Mr. Park’s Papers — The Kingdom and City of
+ Yàoorie and its Natives — The Sultan’s Son — Insurgents —
+ The Sultan’s Daughters — Mischief of the Widow Zuma —
+ Application of the Travellers to the King of Boossà — Wars
+ in Nouffie — Provinces of Hàussa — Detention of the
+ Travellers — The Sultan of Yàoorie — His character —
+ Farewell visit.
+
+ CHAPTER X.
+
+ Leave Yàoorie — Method of watching the Corn — The Cumbrie 81
+ People — their treatment — Sleeping-huts and Spear of the
+ Cumbrie — Arrive at Waree — Garnicassa — Ignorance of the
+ Natives concerning the course of the River — Their
+ Amusements — Return to Boossà — Visit to Wowow recommended —
+ The River consulted by the King of Boossà — Kings of this
+ City — Scarcity of Provisions — Journey to Wowow — First
+ interview with the King.
+
+ CHAPTER XI.
+
+ Horse-racing at Wowow on the Mahomedan Sabbath — Indignation 114
+ of the King of Wowow against the King of Kiàma — Religious
+ Procession of Females — Policy of the King of Wowow —
+ Richard Lander taken ill — Leaves his brother at Wowow, and
+ returns to Boossà — Narrative of John Lander — The Blessing
+ of the Priestess — Religious Sects — Their Creeds, and Ideas
+ of a Future State — Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies — Park’s
+ Books — The States of Borgoo — The last of Park’s effects —
+ Farewell to the King of Wowow — Departure — Village —
+ Apprehensions of the Natives — The Travellers meet at
+ Boossà.
+
+ CHAPTER XII.
+
+ Scandal of the Natives — Treaty for a Canoe — Defeats of the 150
+ Falàtahs at Catsheena and Zaria — Measures of the King of
+ Boossà for the future safety of the Travellers — Artifices
+ for obtaining Presents from them — Preparations for
+ Celebrating the Mahomedan Festival — The King’s Drummer —
+ The Horse Race, and the King’s Speech — A troublesome
+ Servant — Festivities at Boossà — The Eclipse — Version of
+ it by the Arab Priests — Effects on the people — Messengers
+ from Borgoo — Caffas — Mode of preparing them — Arrival of a
+ Fatakie — The Ashantees’ method of killing Elephants —
+ Married Slaves — Their Treatment — Permission for Departure
+ requested — El Kanemee the Arab — The King assents to the
+ Travellers leaving Boossà — The Messenger from Rabba with
+ the King’s Son — Joy of the King of Boossà at his arrival —
+ Opinion of his general conduct towards the Travellers.
+
+ CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ The King and Midiki take leave of the Travellers — They 210
+ embark on the River and depart from Boossà — Island Melálie
+ Inguâzhilligee — Island Patáshie — The Chief of Teàh —
+ Messengers from the King of Wowow — Perplexity of the
+ Travellers respecting their Route — Terror of the Natives at
+ their Appearance — An Invalid — Diseases of the Natives —
+ Their Medicines — Richard Lander goes to Wowow —
+ Superstition of the Natives — Charms — Return of Richard
+ Lander to Patáshie — His interview with the King of Wowow —
+ House of Correction at Patáshie — Native Pagan Priest —
+ Departure from Patáshie — Ráah — Arrive at Lever — An
+ officious Friend in the Priest Ducoo — Disappointment of the
+ Travellers.
+
+ CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs — The Travellers’ 246
+ Canoes claimed — Interference of Ducoo — Detention of the
+ Travellers — Their departure from Lever — The Town of
+ Bajiebo — Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo — Departure from
+ Bajiebo — Scenery of the River — Town of Leechee — Visit to
+ the Chief — The Passage continued down the River — Madjie
+ Island — Mount Kesa — Land on Belee Island — Messenger from
+ Rabba — Arrival of Suliken Rouah, or the King of the Dark
+ Water — Grand Procession of Canoes down the River — Arrival
+ at Zagozhi Island — Its swampy nature.
+
+ CHAPTER XV.
+
+ Stay at Zagozhi — Presents sent to the Chiefs of Rabba — An 284
+ old but troublesome acquaintance — Presents from the Kings
+ of Nouffie and Rabba to the Travellers — Importunities of
+ the King’s messengers — An Arab merchant — Policy of the
+ Falátah Chief, Mallam Dendo, in securing the possession of
+ his conquests — Former Expedition of the Falátahs against
+ Funda — Rabba market — The King of Rabba discontented with
+ his present — Consternation of the Travellers — Park’s tobe
+ sent to him — Joy of the King on receiving it — Permission
+ to proceed — Treacherous conduct of the King of Nouffie —
+ The King of Rabba’s answer — Conversation among the Hàussa
+ merchants — Mallam Dendo the former King of Rabba — His
+ character — Rabba market — Island of Zagozhi — The islanders
+ expert canoemen — Manufactures of Zagozhi — Promise of a
+ canoe.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ JOURNAL.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.
+
+The Widow Zuma — Present to the King — Visit to the Niger — The King of
+Boossà and the Midīkie — Object of the mission explained — The tobe of
+Park recovered — Park’s papers — Boossà described — Resources of the
+Country — One of Park’s books discovered — Equity of the King — The
+hostess — Departure from Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the Niger
+— Description of the river — Village of Sooloo — Rocky barrier — Arrival
+at Yáoorie.
+
+
+_Friday, June 18th._—The noted widow Zuma visited us to-day without the
+slightest pretensions to finery of any kind, either in her dress or
+ornaments, for she was clad in very humble apparel of country cloth. She
+related to us with great good humour her quarrels with her prince, the
+ruler of Wowow, and her consequent flight from that city to escape his
+resentment. It appears that, in order to effect this, she was actually
+obliged to climb over the city wall in the night, and travel on foot to
+Boossà, which is a very long journey, and to a woman of her size must
+have been an arduous task. She alleged that she had done nothing
+whatever to merit the displeasure of the Wowow chief, notwithstanding
+which he had robbed her of all her household furniture and a number of
+her slaves. But, from another quarter, we learn that one of her sons had
+committed a theft in the city, for which he would have suffered death,
+if he had not made his escape with his mother, who it is said had
+instigated him to the deed. The widow complained sadly of poverty and
+the hardness of the times; she had fought with the Yarribeans against
+Alòrie; but instead of receiving a recompense for her bravery, she had
+lost half her slaves in an engagement, which so disgusted her with the
+military profession, that she immediately abandoned it and returned
+home. Yet, in spite of all her losses and misfortunes, she has gained so
+much in corpulency, that it was with the utmost difficulty she could
+squeeze herself into the doorway of our hut, although it is by no means
+small. The widow Zuma is a very good-looking, elderly person of matronly
+appearance. Her skin is of a light copper colour.
+
+After the widow had left us, I carried the presents which had been
+selected to the king and queen. Each appeared delighted with them, and
+the former more especially was extravagant in expressions of admiration
+and thankfulness. A pair of silver bracelets, a tobacco pipe, and a
+looking-glass, seemed to rivet the attention of the king, who could not
+take his eyes off them for a full half hour, so much was he pleased with
+them.
+
+This morning we visited the far-famed _Niger_ or _Quorra_, which flows
+by the city, about a mile from our residence, and were greatly
+disappointed at the appearance of this celebrated river. Black, rugged
+rocks rose abruptly from the centre of the stream, causing strong
+ripples and eddies on its surface. It is said that, a few miles above
+Boossà, the river is divided into three branches, by two small fertile
+islands, and that it flows from hence in one continued stream to Funda.
+The Niger here, in its widest part, is not more than a stone’s-throw
+across at present. The rock on which we sat overlooks the spot where Mr.
+Park and his associates met their unhappy fate; we could not help
+meditating on that circumstance, and on the number of valuable lives
+which have been sacrificed in attempting to explore this river, and
+secretly implored the Almighty that we might be the humble means of
+setting at rest for ever the great question of its course and
+termination.
+
+_Saturday, June 19th._—This morning the king, accompanied by his
+consort, who is said to be his counsellor and only confidant, honoured
+us with a visit at our hut. They came without any kind of state or
+ceremony, and were both dressed more plainly than many of their
+subjects. The king wore a white cotton tobe over another of blue and
+white, a cap of red cloth, and leathern sandals of the same colour. The
+midīkie was clad in a common check shirt, of Nouffie manufacture; a
+plain piece of blue cotton was fastened round her head, wholly
+concealing the hair; a larger piece of the same kind was thrown over the
+left shoulder, and a third, tied round her waist, reached so far as the
+middle of the leg. Her feet were bare, as were likewise her arms up to
+the elbow; a brass ring ornamented each great toe, and eight silver
+bracelets each wrist, the least of them weighing little less than a
+quarter of a pound. Besides these ornaments, the queen wore a necklace
+of coral and bits of gold, and small pieces of pipe coral were stuck in
+the lobe of each ear.
+
+We had almost forgotten to mention that the sultan of Bornou is
+considered the most powerful chief of Northern, as the king of Boossà is
+of Western Africa. The queen is the daughter of the last and sister of
+the present ruler of Wowow.
+
+The demand for coral has been very great in every town of consequence
+which we have visited. All ranks of people appear passionately fond of
+wearing it, and it is preferred to every other ornament whatever. The
+midīkie asked us, this morning, if we had brought any coral with us, and
+seemed rather disappointed, though not displeased, on being answered in
+the negative. She then pulled out a little box, made of sheep skin,
+which was filled with coral beads and little golden trinkets, and
+requested me to polish the latter for her. We offered her a few plated
+buttons, which we had just before been cleaning, and they were accepted
+with transport; but, as their brightness had excited the admiration of
+her consort, a scramble took place as to which of the two should have
+them. After a long struggle, it ended in the triumph of the king, who
+first chose the largest and best for his own use, and then gave his
+spouse the remainder, taking care, however, to show her the inside of
+the buttons he had selected for himself, which were tarnished by use,
+and to display those intended for her to the greatest advantage. The
+royal couple were like two great children, yet they were each well
+pleased with their own, and expressed their thankfulness with much
+warmth.
+
+We imagined that it would have been bad policy to have stated the true
+reason of our visiting this country, knowing the jealousy of most of the
+people with regard to the Niger; and therefore, in answer to the king’s
+inquiries, I was obliged to deceive him with the assertion that our
+object was to go to Bornou by way of Yáoorie, requesting at the same
+time a safe conveyance through his territories. This answer satisfied
+the king, and he promised us every assistance in his power. Our visitors
+remained with us a considerable time, and in the course of conversation,
+one of them observed that they had in their possession a tobe, which
+belonged to a white man who came from the north many years ago, and from
+whom it had been purchased by the king’s father. We expressed great
+curiosity to see this tobe, and it was sent us as a present a short time
+after their departure. Contrary to our expectations, we found it to be
+made of rich crimson damask, and very heavy from the immense quantity of
+gold embroidery with which it was covered. As the time when the late
+king is said to have purchased this tobe corresponds very nearly to the
+supposed period of Mr. Park’s death, and as we never heard of any other
+white man having come from the north so far south as Boossà, we are
+inclined to believe it to be part of the spoil obtained from the canoe
+of that ill-fated traveller. Whether Mr. Park wore the tobe himself,
+which is scarcely probable on account of its weight, or whether he
+intended it as a present to a native chief, we are at a loss to
+determine. At all events, the article is a curiosity in itself; and if
+we should live to return to England, we shall easily learn whether it
+was made there or not. The chief himself has never worn the tobe, nor
+did his predecessor, from a superstitious feeling; ‘besides,’ observed
+the king, ‘it might excite the cupidity of the neighbouring powers.’
+
+_Sunday, June 20th._—The king sent a messenger this morning, to inform
+us that he was a tailor, and that he would thank us for some thread and
+a few needles for his own private use. By this man he likewise sent a
+musket for us to repair; but as it is Sunday, we have declined doing it
+till to-morrow. Eager as we are to obtain even the slightest information
+relative to the unhappy fate of Mr. Park and his companions, as well as
+to ascertain if any of their books or papers are now in existence at
+this place, we had almost made up our minds to refrain from asking any
+questions on the subject, because we were apprehensive that it might be
+displeasing to the king, and involve us in many perplexities.
+Familiarity, however, having in some measure worn off this impression,
+and the king being an affable, obliging, and good-natured person, we
+were emboldened to send Paskoe to him this morning, with a message
+expressive of the interest we felt on the subject, in common with all
+our countrymen; and saying that, if any books or papers which belonged
+to Mr. Park were yet in his possession, he would do us a great service,
+by delivering them into our hands, or at least by granting us permission
+to see them. To this the king returned for answer, that when Mr. Park
+was lost in the Niger, he was a very little boy, and that he knew not
+what had become of his effects; that the deplorable event had occurred
+in the reign of the late king’s predecessor, who died shortly after; and
+that all traces of the white man had been lost with him. This answer
+disappointed our hopes, for to us it appeared final and decisive. But in
+the evening they were again raised by a hint from our host, who is the
+king’s drummer, and one of the principal men in the country: he assured
+us, that there was certainly one book at least saved from Mr. Park’s
+canoe, which is now in the possession of a very poor man in the service
+of his master, to whom it had been entrusted by the late king during his
+last illness. He said moreover, that if but one application were made to
+the king, on any subject whatever, very little was thought of it; but if
+a second were made, the matter would be considered of sufficient
+importance to demand his whole attention,—such being the custom of the
+country. The drummer therefore recommended us to persevere in our
+inquiries, for he had no doubt that something to our satisfaction would
+be elicited. At his own request, we sent him to the king immediately,
+desiring him to repeat our former statement, and to assure the king,
+that should he be successful in recovering the book we wanted, our
+monarch would reward him handsomely. He desired the drummer to inform
+us, that he would use every exertion, and examine the man who was
+reported to have the white man’s book in his possession, at an early
+hour to-morrow. Here the matter at present rests.
+
+In the afternoon, the king came alone to see us, and wished to know when
+we were inclined to depart: we answered, that we were quite ready; that
+we were only waiting his pleasure, and would gladly proceed on our
+journey whenever he would give us permission. He said, if the king of
+Yáoorie should not have a canoe for us by Monday evening, we should have
+the use of one of his own, and that we should have liberty to embark on
+the following morning. We thanked him for his kindness, and took the
+opportunity of paying him and his spouse a compliment, which their
+treatment of us has really deserved. The king took it in good part, was
+extremely affable and obliging, and quitted us in an excellent humour.
+
+I have been very unwell during the last day or two, but am now much
+better.
+
+_Monday, June 21st._—The city of Boossá, as we have before observed,
+consists of a great number of groups or clusters of huts, all within a
+short distance of each other. It is bounded on one side by the river
+Quorra or Niger, and on the other by an extensive turreted wall, with
+moats, forming a complete semicircle. Notwithstanding, however, its
+natural and artificial defences, Boossá was taken by the Falátahs many
+years ago; on which occasion its inhabitants fled, with their children
+and effects, to one of those little islands in the Niger, which we have
+already mentioned. But the chiefs of Niki, Wowow, and Kíama, having been
+made acquainted with the circumstance, assembled together, and having
+joined their forces with those of Boossà, drove the Falátahs, their
+common enemy, into the Niger, where many of them perished. Since that
+period the city has never been invaded, nor threatened with attack. The
+soil of Boossà is, for the most part, very fertile, and produces rice,
+corn, yams, &c., in great abundance. _Dowah_, a kind of corn, is
+obtained here in the greatest perfection; it yields five hundred fold,
+and forms the principal food of the inhabitants, both rich and poor.
+Another variety of corn grows here, which has eight ears on a single
+stem; the grain is very small and sweet, but it is not cultivated to any
+extent. The butter-tree flourishes in and near the town; and palm oil is
+imported from Nouffie; but the latter is only used as an article of
+food, because it is very scarce and dear, and is purchased only by the
+king and a few of the principal inhabitants. The king and his midīkie
+have each great numbers of fine cattle, but none of their subjects are
+in possession of a single bullock; they have, however, flocks of sheep
+and goats, and obtain immense quantities of fish from the Niger. Very
+good salt is brought from a salt lake on the borders of the river, which
+is about ten days’ journey to the northward of this place; and pepper
+grows in every part of the country. Guinea-fowl, pheasants, partridges,
+and a variety of aquatic birds are found here in the greatest plenty,
+and have afforded us excellent sport. The natives sometimes endeavour to
+shoot them with their arrows, but this method of procuring game is at
+all times very precarious and difficult; and two birds only have been
+thus killed during several years past. Deer and antelopes also abound
+near the city; but they are timid and shy, and rarely, if ever, caught
+by the inhabitants. The fish, with which the river abounds so
+plentifully, are eaten by all classes of people: they are tough, dry,
+and unsavory; yet they form part of the daily food of the inhabitants,
+who appear exceedingly fond of them.
+
+The Hàussa language is understood by the generality of the natives of
+Borgoo, both young and old, almost as well as their mother-tongue, and
+it is spoken by the majority of them with considerable fluency. The
+government of the country is despotic; but this unlimited power, which
+is vested in the monarch, is almost invariably exercised with lenity and
+forbearance. All private disputes are settled by the king, and he
+punishes misdemeanours just as his inclination may lead him. It was
+reported that the queen ruled her husband, and influenced his conduct in
+all matters; but the affair of the buttons shows the rumour to be ill-
+founded. The king’s address is superior; and his whole demeanour, in our
+presence, though mild and unassuming, displays a good deal of natural
+dignity. He sent us a fine turkey this morning, which was acknowledged
+on our part by a couple of Guinea-fowl and two brace of partridges,
+which my brother had shot.
+
+In the afternoon, the king came to see us, followed by a man with a book
+under his arm, which was said to have been picked up in the Niger after
+the loss of our countryman. It was enveloped in a large cotton cloth,
+and our hearts beat high with expectation as the man was slowly
+unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park’s journal;
+but our disappointment and chagrin were great, when, on opening the
+book, we discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last
+century. The title page was missing, but its contents were chiefly
+tables of logarithms. It was a thick royal quarto, which led us to
+conjecture that it was a journal; between the leaves we found a few
+loose papers of very little consequence indeed; one of them contained
+two or three observations on the height of the water in the Gambia; one
+was a tailor’s bill on a Mr. Anderson; and another was addressed to Mr.
+Mungo Park, and contained an invitation to dinner,—the following is a
+copy of it:—
+
+‘Mr. and Mrs. Watson would be happy to have the pleasure of Mr. Park’s
+company at dinner on Tuesday next, at half-past five o’clock.
+
+‘An answer is requested.
+
+‘_Strand, 9th Nov._ 1804.’
+
+
+The king, as well as the owner of the book, looked as greatly mortified
+as ourselves, when they were told that the one produced was not that of
+which we were in quest, because the reward promised would not of course
+be obtained. As soon as our curiosity had been fully satisfied, the
+papers were carefully collected and placed again between the leaves, and
+the book as carefully folded in its envelope as before, and taken away
+by its owner, who values it as much as a household god. Thus all our
+hopes of obtaining Mr. Park’s journal or papers, in this city, are
+entirely defeated. The inquiry, on our part, has not been prosecuted
+without much trouble and anxiety, and some little personal sacrifices
+likewise, which, had they been ten times as great, we would gladly have
+made whilst a single hope remained of their being effectual.
+
+_Tuesday, June 22d._—When Captain Clapperton was at Wowow on the former
+expedition, Paskoe purchased a slave of the widow Zuma to be his wife,
+but for some reason or other the bargain was not completed, and the
+woman remained with her mistress. A part of the purchase-money only was
+given back to Paskoe, and he was obliged to quit the town with his
+master without having had an opportunity of recovering the remainder.
+The widow’s late change of residence from Wowow to Boossà seemed to
+offer a fair chance for Paskoe to obtain his money, and he accordingly
+made an early application for it; but though she acknowledged the debt,
+she refused payment on the ground that, as the prince of Wowow had
+forcibly obtained possession of the girl in question, he had no right
+whatever to the money. Paskoe, unwilling to lose so large a sum, then
+laid the matter before the king of Boossà, for his decision; and, in
+consequence, the widow has undergone two or three examinations, without
+producing any good whatever. The monarch has declared that he sees the
+justice of his demand, but as the woman obstinately refuses to pay the
+debt, he cannot think of forcing her to do so against her inclination.
+Paskoe subsequently offered the whole of the money which the widow owed
+him to the king, provided the latter could obtain it. But this was
+altogether repugnant to the monarch’s notions of right and wrong. He
+replied, ‘The widow came here to me alone, and in distress, to claim my
+protection, which I granted her without hesitation; it would therefore
+ill become me to break my faith, and turn my back on an object so
+utterly defenceless and unprotected, by exacting from her the money of
+another for my own use, in the recovery of which I had previously
+refused to interfere. I cannot break my word—I cannot grant you your
+request.’
+
+It is amusing to discover the shifts to which the people of Boossà and
+other places have resorted, in the hope of obtaining a little present of
+some sort from us. The day after our arrival here, a man, who
+represented himself as brother to the King of Nouffie, sent us a large
+bowl of dried fish and onions; and another individual has sold his only
+tobe, for the purpose of obtaining a little money to purchase some
+_bum_, which is a fermented liquor extracted from the palm tree and the
+bamboo, and which he is about to present to us. The former of these
+presents was rejected, because such kind of things had become, by their
+frequency, so serious an inconvenience, that we have determined to
+accept of nothing for the future in the shape of a gift, except from the
+chiefs and governors themselves. Yet we have repented of our resolution
+in this instance, having been informed yesterday that the pretended
+brother of the King of Nouffie was not long ago taken prisoner by the
+Falátahs, and his only son with him, and that they were both sold by
+them to a company of Hàussa merchants; that the father had redeemed
+himself from slavery by his own exertions, and that he had had recourse
+to the above expedient of sending us a quantity of dried fish and
+onions, in the expectation of obtaining a little money from us towards
+emancipating his son. The poor man went away quite crest-fallen and
+unhappy at the ill success of his project, and quitted the city
+immediately after, to visit his enslaved son, who is at _Koolfu_, so
+that when we were made acquainted with the circumstance it was too late
+to relieve him, and we very much regretted it.
+
+Our hostess is an agreeable and good-natured woman, but she is
+excessively vain of her person; so much so indeed, that she employs
+several hours in the day in dressing her hair, which hangs down below
+the face in three plaited _queues_, one of them from the forehead, and
+one from each side of the head; after which she affixes ornaments on
+different parts of her body, stains her lips and teeth a shining red
+colour with _hennah_ (a species of myrtle); and when all this is done
+she admires herself in a broken looking-glass which we have given her.
+This is the most whimsical and diverting part of the ceremony: she
+approaches the glass and retreats from it again, smiles when she fancies
+that she looks pretty; and distorts her features and throws her body
+into all manner of comical attitudes, to ascertain which is the most
+engaging. Although only a drummer’s wife, our hostess is considered as a
+person of respectability, for her husband’s situation is one of the most
+important in the kingdom; and all the more respectable females of Borgoo
+adorn their persons in much the same manner as she does, and have an
+almost equal share of affectation and vanity. The men sometimes stain
+their lips and teeth, and finger and toe-nails, like their wives; but
+this custom is by no means general among them. The King and Queen of
+Boossà disregard it altogether.
+
+We brought three horses with us to Coobly from Jenna; two of them have
+died from fatigue, and the third is in so miserable a state, that he can
+be of no further service to us. The king paid us a visit this afternoon,
+and informed us that everything will be in readiness for our departure
+to-morrow. On this occasion he presented us with an excellent and
+handsome horse, which is the more acceptable, as we have only one, which
+we fortunately purchased a few days ago from the Governor of Coobly. The
+monarch strongly enjoined us to accept of no provisions, particularly
+milk and honey, from any person whatever, excepting the governors of
+towns through which we may pass, for he was apprehensive that poison
+would be mixed with them. He did not explain to us on what grounds he
+entertained his suspicion, but left us to form our own conjectures on
+his unexpected advice. If we are not mistaken, the king warned Captain
+Clapperton of a similar danger.
+
+During the whole course of our journey we have nowhere experienced
+greater kindness, attention, and hospitality, than from the amiable
+ruler of this place, and his no less amiable companion, and we shall
+have occasion to remember their civility to us as long as we live.
+
+Since we have been here the king has given us a horse, bullock, sheep,
+and turkey, which were all very valuable, while our present to him is
+considerably less than that which the King of Kiáma received.
+
+_Wednesday, June 23rd._—Last night Boossà was visited by a tornado,
+which did a little mischief to the town. At an early hour in the morning
+the king and queen paid us a farewell visit, when the former again
+cautioned us to beware of poison. We then expressed our acknowledgments
+to both for all their favours; and an hour or two after they had taken
+their departure, we rode out of the city, accompanied by two horsemen as
+an escort, and a foot-messenger to the Sultan of Yàoorie. Not far from
+the walls of Boossà we came to a spot where the herds of the King and
+Midīkie were grazing: finer cattle can nowhere be seen; they are under
+the care of Falátah slaves, because the natives do not understand their
+management. From hence we journied along the banks of the Niger, at an
+easy pace, owing to the hollows in the path, and two hours afterwards
+entered a pleasant little walled town, called _Kagogie_, where we were
+desired to halt till to-morrow. The town is peopled solely by the King
+of Boussà’s slaves; and is distant, in a northerly direction, from the
+capital about eight or nine miles. We have been sent hither by land,
+because a canoe could not be paddled up the river without the greatest
+difficulty and danger, on account of the rocks. The inhabitants of
+Kagogie appear to enjoy an easy kind of life. The chief part of their
+time is employed in husbandry, fishing, and taking care of the king’s
+horses; and though but indifferently clad, they all seem well fed,
+contented, and comfortable.
+
+In the afternoon a young woman presented herself with a few loose leaves
+of ‘Thomson’s Seasons,’ which we had thrown away at Boossà. She had been
+despatched purposely by the king, her master, who imagined that they
+were valuable to us, and that we had overlooked them in the hurry of
+departure.
+
+Even here, in this insignificant and sequestered place, the Arabic
+language is professed to be taught in schools, and boys are put under
+the tuition of men, who can only teach them a few very short Mohammedan
+prayers, and who do not themselves understand a single Arabic character.
+
+Our nights were spent most unpleasantly at Boossà, by reason of the
+swarms of mosquitoes and black ants which infested our dwelling, and
+whose sting is keener than a needle’s point; the latter insect, in
+particular, is a great nuisance, and we are told that there is not a
+town on the banks of the Niger that is free from either.
+
+_Thursday, June 24th._—Though the governor of Kagogie had been made
+acquainted with our intentions no less than three days before our
+arrival, yet no canoe had been got ready for our use; and this morning,
+when we expected to embark, the ‘King of the Canoe,’ as the person who
+has the care of it is ridiculously styled, informed us with the utmost
+unconcern that it was out of repair, and that it would not be fit for
+our reception for some hours at least. This intelligence was very
+disagreeable and provoking, for we were so anxious to embark on the
+Niger, that the shortest delay was painful to us. Besides the appearance
+of the morning foretold a hot day, and as we had neither awning nor
+umbrellas to screen us from the burning sun, this circumstance tended to
+increase our uneasiness. The natives have no forethought, and imagine
+that all men value time as little as themselves; everything is deferred
+till the very last moment, and they look up into one’s face with wonder
+when they see one anywise impatient.
+
+In the course of the forenoon we repaired to the side of the river,
+which is about twenty or thirty paces from the town, for the purpose of
+endeavouring to encourage and hurry the workmen in their labour about
+the canoe. Promises and threats were employed to effect this object, but
+the men would neither be coaxed nor intimidated,—they would not overwork
+themselves, they said, for all the riches in our possession; so that we
+were obliged to leave them, and exercise our patience. The branch of the
+Niger which flows by Kagogie is about a mile in width; but it is
+rendered so shallow by large sand-banks that, except in one very narrow
+place, a child might wade across it without difficulty. Mr. Park chose a
+deeper and safer branch, though it led to the same dangers.
+
+Our horses were conveyed across from here to the opposite side of the
+river, from whence they will be taken to Yàoorie by land, because the
+canoes of the natives would be too frail a conveyance for them. These
+canoes are of great length, but the workmanship employed in making and
+fashioning them is exceedingly rude and careless. Owing perhaps to the
+want of proper trees of sufficient magnitude, they are made of _two_
+blocks of wood, which are sewn together by a thick cord, under which a
+quantity of straw is placed, both inside and out, to prevent the
+admission of water; but the whole is altogether so clumsily executed,
+that every canoe in the country is always leaky.
+
+About mid-day the workmen having finished our canoe, the luggage was
+presently put into it, and between twelve and one we embarked with our
+people, and were launched out into the river. The direction of this
+branch was nearly east and west; and we proceeded some distance down the
+stream for the purpose of getting into the main branch of the Niger,
+where there is deeper water. This object was soon attained, and we found
+it flowing from north to south, through a rich and charming country,
+which seemed to improve in appearance the further we advanced. We were
+propelled at a good rate up a channel, which, from half a mile in
+breadth, gradually widened to rather better than a mile. Beautiful,
+spreading, and spiry trees adorned the country on each side of the
+river, like a park; corn, nearly ripe, waved over the water’s edge;
+large, open villages appeared every half-hour; and herds of spotted
+cattle were observed grazing and enjoying the cool of the shade. The
+appearance of the river, for several miles, was no less enchanting than
+its borders; it was as smooth as a lake; canoes, laden with sheep and
+goats, were paddled by women down its almost imperceptible current;
+swallows, and a variety of aquatic birds, were sporting over its glassy
+surface, which was ornamented by a number of pretty little islands.
+
+The heat of the weather distressed us greatly, till the approach of
+evening, when large sand-banks and shallows engaged our attention. A
+little after eight, P.M., we landed on the eastern bank of the river,
+not far from a small village, where we fixed our tent on a plot of
+rising corn, and, having nothing to eat, went supperless to rest.
+
+_Friday, June 25th._—The most remarkable object which we saw on rising
+this morning, was a rugged and romantic range of hills, appearing to the
+eastward of our encampment: it is called _Engarskie_, from a country of
+the same name in which the hills are situated, and which was formerly an
+independent kingdom, but is now become a province of Yàoorie. At a
+little before seven, A.M., our canoe was pushed off the sandy beach on
+which it had been secured last evening, and propelled down a very narrow
+channel, between a large sand-bank and the shore. This conducted us into
+the main branch of the Niger, and we again admired its delightful and
+magnificent appearance.
+
+We had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river gradually
+widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye could reach. It
+looked very much like an artificial canal; the banks having the
+appearance of a dwarf wall, with vegetation beyond. In most places the
+water was extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to float a
+frigate. During the first two hours of the day, the scenery was as
+interesting and picturesque as can be imagined. The banks were literally
+covered with hamlets and villages; fine trees, bending under the weight
+of their dark and impenetrable foliage, everywhere relieved the eye from
+the glare of the sun’s rays, and, contrasted with the lively verdure of
+the little hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect.
+Afterwards, however, there was a decided change; the banks, which before
+consisted of dark earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black
+rugged rocks; large sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river,
+which diverted it into a variety of little channels, and effectually
+destroyed its appearance.
+
+About eleven o’clock, dark clouds from the west foretold an approaching
+storm; and our boatmen used their utmost exertions in endeavouring to
+reach a village, or some place of security, before it should burst upon
+us; but in this hope we were disappointed, for in a very few minutes it
+blew a hurricane, accompanied by thunder and lightning of the most awful
+description, and the rain fell in torrents. It became, besides, so dark,
+that nothing could be clearly distinguished at the distance of only a
+few yards. We were wetted to the skin in a moment; and our canoe was in
+danger of sinking as we came abreast of a little fishing village, on an
+island, close to the water’s edge. We jumped on shore as soon as
+possible, and ran, without shoes or hats, into the first hut we came to
+for protection from the storm. Here our unlooked for intrusion
+frightened away a poor woman, who rushed out of the hut as we entered
+it; but we commenced throwing off our dripping clothes, and displacing a
+pot of fish which was stewing over a few expiring embers, heaped up all
+the dry wood we could find. Not till then did we discover that our
+situation was little better than it had been in the canoe; the hut had
+two large open doorways opposite each other, through which the wind
+swept the rain, and filled it with pools of water. This was too much for
+us, and sallying out immediately, half-dressed, we hurried towards a hut
+which we perceived at a short distance; but this was no better than that
+which we had left,—all seemed alike; and rushing back again through the
+pelting rain, we regained our deserted hut, and resigned ourselves to
+all its inconveniences. Our people shortly afterwards came up to us,
+quite benumbed with cold and wet; and, notwithstanding their distress
+and our own comfortless condition, we could not forbear laughing at
+their comical and ragged appearance. Meantime the hostess and her
+husband, with several of the other villagers, summoned up resolution
+enough to visit us; and by way of a peace-offering, they brought with
+them fire-wood and a small quantity of provisions. This enabled us to
+kindle two large fires in the hut, which, as the storm was abating, soon
+dried up the water; but we were unavoidably obliged to lie down in damp
+clothes. My brother and I sat up during the best part of the night, for
+we found it impossible to sleep, not only on account of myriads of
+mosquitoes, but the groaning and snoring of men, the barking and
+growling of dogs, an incessant drumming at an adjacent village, and the
+startling roar of a lion, which was prowling about our quarters nearly
+the whole of the night.
+
+_Saturday, June 26th._—The tempest of yesterday was succeeded by a cool
+evening, and a remarkably clear night. In the morning, on leaving the
+village, we were followed to the beach by a few of its inhabitants, and
+when the canoe was pushed off at seven o’clock, they cheered us loudly.
+These people are harmless and good-natured, but dirty in their persons
+and singular in their manners. Their language is different from that
+spoken at Boossà. Most of the villages on the islands, as far as
+Yàoorie, it is said, are inhabited by the same race of people, and they
+are also scattered on the banks of the river. The women daub their hair
+with red clay, but they are too poor to purchase many personal
+ornaments, and the men use none whatever. They appear to have the
+necessaries of life in abundance; they are partial to agriculture, and
+cultivate large portions of land with corn, rice, and onions; besides
+which fishing is carried on by them on an extensive scale, and numbers
+of the men go three days’ journey up the Niger to catch fish. Most of
+their huts are supported on clay pillars, which are wonderfully small;
+or on stone slabs not more than an inch in thickness. The walls of the
+huts are only two or three inches in thickness; but these have no large
+doorways like that which we occupied; and instead of them, they are
+furnished with a small single aperture near the roof, to which their
+owners are obliged to climb; and even then they cannot enter without
+great exertion. These huts approach nearer to the shape of a common
+English oven than anything else we have ever seen. Situated between
+Boossà and Yàoorie, the inhabitants of most of the islands speak the
+language of those countries, but they have also one of their own, which
+nobody but themselves understand: a smattering of the Hàussa tongue,
+which they have attained, is the only method of communication which is
+adopted in their trading transactions.
+
+We had passed the island whereon we slept last night but a few minutes,
+and had just entered into the main river, when we came to a spot where
+it spreads again into branches, and each channel was literally filled
+with dangerous rocks, sand-banks, and low islands covered with tall rank
+grass. The appearance of them was extremely disheartening. We were
+conducted up the main branch of the river, but were soon obliged to land
+with our people in order to lighten the canoe, which, after a deal of
+exertion, was lifted over a ridge of rocks into deeper water. During the
+greater part of the morning, indeed, our canoe was continually striking
+against concealed rocks, or running on hidden sand-banks, but sustained
+no apparent damage by the concussion; the only inconvenience we
+experienced from it was the fatiguing one of being obliged to get out
+and in whenever it was found necessary. It therefore afforded us much
+pleasure to be landed, about two o’clock in the afternoon, on the left
+bank of the river, for we were heartily tired of our morning’s work, and
+felt highly gratified that it was over.
+
+At a short distance from the water’s edge the country was thickly
+studded with clusters of huts, which all together are called the village
+of _Sooloo_; and we took up our quarters in a large one, which is
+nearest the landing-place. The inhabitants resemble very much the
+islanders already spoken of; they cultivate much land and catch vast
+quantities of fish; but though they live well, they are clothed very
+indifferently. The only ornaments they wear are made of the back-bone of
+a certain species of fish, which are tied round the loins and other
+parts of the body. Besides corn, &c. the inhabitants also grow immense
+quantities of onions, and they have large store-houses full of these,
+ready to be exported to different parts of the continent. The price of
+an onion here is two cowries; at Katunga forty, and at Badágry they
+fetch so high a price as a hundred cowries each.
+
+We were treated this afternoon with much hospitality by them, and they
+did all in their power to render our short stay as agreeable as
+possible.
+
+_Sunday, June 27th._—Both of us awoke this morning rather unwell, which
+was most likely occasioned by our exposure to the tempest of Friday. The
+old chief of the village accompanied us to the water’s edge when we
+quitted our hut for the purpose of embarking, and enjoined the ‘King of
+the Canoe’ to be particularly careful of his charge. ‘Careful!’ answered
+the man; ‘to be sure I will; do I not know that white men are more
+precious than a boat-load of eggs, and require as much care to be taken
+of them?’ We entreated the same man a short time afterwards to be more
+active and diligent in the management of his canoe, for he was rather
+inclined to be lazy, and suffered every one to go before ours; but he
+replied gravely, ‘Kings do not travel so fast as common men; I must
+convey you along as slowly as possible.’
+
+We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one
+particular place which we should have to pass, that our people were
+compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till
+we had passed it, when we took them in again. We found the description
+to be in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding appearance,
+and yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossà in difficulty and
+danger. On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a range
+of black rocks running directly across the stream, and the water,
+finding only one narrow passage, rushed through it with great
+impetuosity, overturning and carrying away everything in its course. Our
+boatmen, with the assistance of a number of the natives, who planted
+themselves on the rocks on each side of the only channel, and in the
+stream at the stern of the canoe, lifted it by main force into smoother
+and safer water. The last difficulty with respect to rocks and sand-
+banks was now overcome, and in a very little time we came to the
+termination of all the islands, after which, it is said, there is not a
+single dangerous place up the Niger. The river here presented its
+noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was anywhere
+perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong, refreshing
+breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the
+motion of a slightly-agitated sea. In the course of the morning we
+passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at a short
+distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of Hesperia; indeed no
+spot on earth can excel them in beauty of appearance. These islands are
+inhabited by a few individuals.
+
+About eleven A.M. we landed at the foot of a little village on the east
+bank of the river, where our horses and men had arrived before us. Here
+a little milk was presented to us by a Falátah in the service of the
+sultan of Yàoorie, and we rested under a large tree an hour or two,
+awaiting the arrival of carriers from the city of Yàoorie, who had been
+sent for yesterday by one of the Boossà messengers that had charge of
+our horses. These men arrived at the village between one and two o’clock
+in the afternoon, and we immediately mounted and rode onwards.
+
+The path was in a N.N.E. direction, and we travelled over a sterile
+country, which was gradually rising at every step, and abounded
+plentifully in game. The weather was oppressively warm, and we were
+obliged to refresh ourselves by halting occasionally and resting in the
+shade. The soil, which at first was so indifferent and barren, improved
+greatly as we drew near Yàoorie; and immense patches of land, cultivated
+with a variety of corn, also with rice, indigo, cotton, &c., were
+visible on every side. Labourers were employed in these plantations,
+attended by a drummer, that they might be excited by the sound of his
+instrument to work well and briskly. On attaining the summit of a steep
+hill, we rode over a very narrow pathway, so much overhung by an
+impenetrable thorny shrub, that there was not room for more than one man
+to walk. This led us to the wall of Yàoorie, and we entered the city
+through an amazingly strong passage, in which was an immense door
+covered with plates of iron, rudely fastened to the wood-work. We were
+almost exhausted with fatigue on our arrival, insomuch that we excused
+ourselves from visiting and paying our respects to the sultan, and we
+were conducted to a convenient habitation, which had been prepared for
+us. Yàoorie is about eight miles N.N.E. from the village at which we
+landed.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER IX.
+
+Remarks on the River — Intelligence of the fate of Mr. Park — His Gun
+obtained — Visit to the Sultan — Unsuccessful Application for Mr. Park’s
+Papers — The Kingdom and City of Yàoorie and its Natives — The Sultan’s
+Son — Insurgents — The Sultan’s Daughters — Mischief of the Widow Zuma —
+Application of the Travellers to the King of Boossà — Wars in Nouffie —
+Provinces of Hàussa — Detention of the Travellers — The Sultan of
+Yàoorie — His character — Farewell visit.
+
+
+With the exception of the dangerous rocks at Boossà, we are informed
+that, during our four days’ passage up the river, we have passed all the
+most difficult places in it, neither rocks nor sand-banks, it is said,
+being either above Yàoorie, or below Boossà. We have said nothing of the
+course of the river, because it is pretty well understood that this city
+lies nearly due north of Boossà; and also, that notwithstanding its
+windings and the number and variety of its channels, the Niger or Quorra
+flows past Boossà in a single undivided channel. In its natural bed,
+when uninterrupted by rocks, and other impediments, the river runs at
+this time of the year at the rate of between one and two miles in an
+hour; whenever it is obstructed by them, however, the velocity of the
+current is considerably increased. Although during the dry season, no
+communication or intercourse is maintained by water between Boossà, and
+the countries or states lower down the river, by reason of the dangerous
+rocks which have been already alluded to more than once; yet in the wet
+season, after the ‘Malca’ (or fourteen days’ incessant rain) has set in,
+when all the rivers which are dry during the remainder of the year, pour
+their overplus into the ‘Great Father of Waters,’ as the Niger is
+emphatically styled, then canoes, it is said, pass to and fro, between
+Yàoorie, Nouffie, Boossà, and Funda. It is immediately after the
+‘Malca,’ also, that the Niger, by the depth and velocity of its current,
+sweeps off the rank grass which springs up annually on its borders.
+Every rock and every low island is then completely covered, and may be
+passed over in canoes without difficulty, or even apprehension of
+danger. The enterprising Mr. Park must have had a thousand difficulties
+to overcome in his voyage down the Niger. It was about this time of the
+year that he arrived at Yàoorie, and the river, it is said, was then
+about the same height as it is at present. The canoe-men, who in all
+probability were his slaves, were said to be chained to the canoe, in
+order to prevent their running away; his pilot was unacquainted with the
+river any further, and therefore he received his wages here in Yàoorie,
+and returned to his own country; and Mr. Park, with a companion, and
+three white boys, continued their journey down the Niger without any
+person whatever to point out the safest channel, or warn them of their
+danger. When the accident happened at Boossà by which they lost their
+lives, it is said they preferred being drowned to avoid as they imagined
+a more dreadful death.
+
+Many years ago, a large boat arrived at Yàoorie on a trading voyage from
+Timbuctoo. Having disposed of their merchandise, the boatmen returned to
+their country by land, because they asserted that the exertion of
+working their vessel back so great a distance against the stream, was
+too much for them, and therefore they left it behind at Yàoorie.
+
+_Monday, June 28th._—This morning we were visited by the chief of the
+Arabs of this city, who (if such a title can be used with propriety) is
+Prime Minister to the Sultan. He is a very old man, as dark as a native;
+and was dressed in the costume of his countrymen, which is very
+becoming. His beard was long, and as white as snow, and a singular tuft
+of hair which was directly under the lower lip, did not look much unlike
+the tail of a white mouse. Though toothless, the old man was yet very
+communicative and intelligent, and among other things he informed us
+that Mr. Park did not visit the city of Yàoorie, but remained in his
+canoe at the village where we landed yesterday, and despatched a
+messenger in his stead to the sultan, with a suitable present. This Arab
+had been sent by the sultan to the village with presents in return, and
+by his description of Mr. Park’s dress, he must have worn the laced tobe
+that we received of the King of Boossà, and which may account for the
+facility with which we obtained it, as well as the reluctance of the
+king to enter into an explanation of the manner in which his ancestor
+had got possession of it. Mr. Park is stated to have been drowned in
+this same dress. The Arab informed us, that he had in his possession a
+cutlass and a double-barrelled gun, which was part of Mr. Park’s present
+to the sultan. We expressed a wish to look at these weapons, and they
+were immediately sent for. The gun was very excellent, and handsomely
+mounted; and we offered our own fowling-piece in exchange for it, which
+was cheerfully agreed to, but not till after the sultan’s consent had in
+the first place been obtained.
+
+Not long after the old Arab had taken his leave of us, several of his
+country-people of much fairer complexions, came to pay their respects;
+and among them was a young man named _Ali_, who arrived in this city
+yesterday, in ten days from Soccatoo, having stopped to trade on the
+road.
+
+The journey from hence to the city of Soccatoo, when no stoppage is made
+on the road, may easily be accomplished in five days only; and this is
+the regular time the natives take to go there. Koolfu is two days’
+journey from Yàoorie. He represented himself as one of the Arabs that
+accompanied Major Denham, Captain Clapperton, and their party over the
+desert from _Mourzuk_, in Fezzan, to Bornou.
+
+Last night the sultan sent us a bullock, a fine large sheep of a
+peculiar species, the handsomest we ever saw; a great quantity of milk,
+and several hundred weight of rice; and this evening we received a large
+turkey and a bowl of rice from the chief of the Arabs.
+
+_Tuesday, June 29th._—This evening, by desire, we went to pay our
+respects to the sultan. We soon arrived at the palace, which is a very
+large building, or rather a group of buildings inclosed by a high wall;
+and dismounting, we were presently conducted through a low avenue formed
+by pillars, which was as dark as a subterraneous passage. This led to a
+large square yard, which we entered and found it to communicate with the
+sultan’s apartments by the number of domestics that were hurrying about.
+Several people were sitting on the ground, but we were obliged to stand
+a long time, during which a profound silence was preserved, and no one
+was polite enough to offer us a mat to sit on. At length we received a
+summons to advance, and were introduced into another square, very much
+resembling a clean farm-yard. Here we discovered the sultan sitting
+alone in the centre of the square, on a plain piece of carpeting, with a
+pillow on each side of him, and a neat brass pan in front. His
+appearance was not only mean, but absolutely squalid and dirty. He is a
+big-headed, corpulent, and jolly-looking man, well stricken in years;
+and though there is something harsh and forbidding in his countenance,
+yet he was generally smiling during the conference. The conversation
+commenced in the usual complimentary way; and then our object in
+visiting Yàoorie was briefly and indirectly hinted at. When we asked him
+whether he did not send a letter to the late Captain Clapperton while
+that officer was at Koolfu, in which he had affirmed that he had certain
+books and papers in his possession which belonged to Mr. Park, he
+appeared very much confused. After thinking and hesitating a good while,
+he answered with an affected laugh, ‘How do you think that I could have
+the books of a person that was lost at Boossà?’ and this was all he said
+on the subject. He subsequently wished to know the reason that Captain
+Clapperton refused to visit him when he passed through the country; but
+more especially why, after his death, I had not paid him that mark of
+respect on my return to the coast from Soccatoo. My reply to him was,
+that I had been told he was the greatest monarch in the country, and
+therefore I should have felt ashamed to have visited him with the
+trifling present which I had to offer, as he might consider it an insult
+to his dignity. A frown of disapprobation settled on his countenance at
+hearing this, and he sharply rejoined, that he was perfectly well
+acquainted with the nature and value of the presents which had been made
+to the various chiefs I had visited; but that if I had nothing to offer
+him, it was my duty, and should have been my first care, to have paid my
+respects to him at Yàoorie. Here the conversation was abruptly ended;
+the sultan was more than half inclined to be angry with us; and we were
+not at all sorry to be reconducted to the open air.
+
+_Wednesday, June 30th._—This morning I carried the sultan’s present to
+him; but it was very coldly received. I stated, that by reason of the
+selfishness and bad faith of the chief at the sea side, and the length
+of the journey from thence, the presents we had brought from England
+were nearly all expended; insomuch that we found it would be impossible
+to reach Bornou without receiving an additional supply of goods, which
+in our present situation we had no opportunity of obtaining; and that
+this being the case, we had no other resource left but to get to the
+salt water, when our wants would be promptly supplied. I observed that
+going down the river in a canoe would be the easiest and best means of
+effecting this object, to which the sultan replied that the price of a
+canoe would be a hundred dollars; but he was told that we had not
+property enough to purchase one. The road overland to Funda, by way of
+Koolfu or Guarie, was then mentioned, and the sultan promised to send us
+thither in two or three days. Here the conversation ended, and I took my
+leave.
+
+The young Arab from Soccatoo visited us again to-day, and presented us
+with dried dates which he had brought from Fezzan, and a quantity of
+trona. Ali is a handsome and intelligent young man, and is extremely
+open and communicative. But all his good qualities are cast in the shade
+by a mean and rapacious habit of begging, which he displays in common
+with his countrymen who reside here, and which has disgusted and
+displeased us more than once. He tells us that he is on his way to
+Alòrie in Yarriba with goods and horses for sale; but he is suspected to
+be a spy sent by Bello to examine the fortifications, and ascertain the
+state of public feeling in the city, with intelligence of which he is to
+return to him.
+
+_Thursday, July 1st._—Yesterday nothing occurred worthy of observation,
+nor has anything taken place to-day which requires more than a passing
+remark. The sultan sent us ten old guns to clean and repair this
+morning; we are unable to execute the latter part of his commands, but
+fortunately the mulatto who accompanied us from Badàgry is fully
+competent to the task, and in such cases always acts in our stead. The
+sultan sent for Paskoe two hours afterwards, and desired him to ask us
+for medicine to cure sore eyes, and complaints in the bowels. We are
+pestered with such applications as these all day long. Paskoe embraced
+the opportunity of making inquiries of the sultan concerning the lost
+papers of Mr. Park, as we had desired him; but he shook his head, and
+would say nothing about the matter, and immediately shifted the
+conversation to another subject. This prince assumes more consequence
+than any chief or monarch that we have yet seen; he never receives a
+visit but he exacts from the visiter the most humiliating forms of
+address; and even when the Arabs themselves obtain an audience, they are
+obliged to deliver what they have to say to him on their knees. Perhaps
+he expected a similar servile position from us, for such his countenance
+seemed to indicate, but whatever might have been his expectation, we had
+no notion of demeaning ourselves so grossly in his presence. Since our
+arrival in this city, my brother and I have been very seriously
+indisposed, as might be expected, for the air is humid and unwholesome,
+being impregnated with all manner of noxious effluvia, from the swampy
+nature of the soil at this season of the year, and the number of large
+pools of impure water which exist more or less in every quarter of the
+town.
+
+_Friday, July 2d._—It is rather unfortunate for us, that so immense a
+quantity of needles was distributed through the country by the last
+mission; the market here is even now completely overstocked with them,
+so that we find it difficult to dispose of ours for a quarter of their
+value. In Yarriba and elsewhere, it was a general practice with us to
+pay the carriers of our luggage with needles only, but here we are
+endeavouring to dispose of them in order to purchase provisions for our
+people. We brought with us from England nearly a hundred thousand
+needles of various sizes, and amongst them was a great quantity of
+‘Whitechapel sharps,’ warranted ‘superfine, and not to cut in the eye!’
+Thus highly recommended, we imagined that these needles must have been
+excellent indeed; but what was our surprise some time ago, when a number
+of them which we had disposed of, was returned to us with a complaint
+that they were all _eyeless_, thus redeeming with a vengeance the pledge
+of the manufacturer, that they ‘would not cut in the eye.’ On an
+examination afterwards, we found the same fault with the remainder of
+the ‘Whitechapel sharps,’ so that to save our credit we have been
+obliged to throw them away. Our best, and almost only resource, has been
+in the metal buttons attached to our English clothes. These, when
+polished brightly, look well and have completely won the people of all
+ranks, from the sultan to the slave, who freely offer three or four
+hundred cowries each for those with silver gilt, and double that sum for
+one with gold gilt; whereas, for a good looking-glass we can only obtain
+three hundred cowries. Our clothes are nearly all stripped of their
+buttons; and we now place our dependence for future support principally
+on a quantity of livery and soldiers’ buttons, which are, however,
+rather dull and dirty, and will require many hours’ labour before they
+attain any degree of brightness.
+
+_Sunday, July 4th._—Yesterday was barren of incident of any kind. To-day
+I visited the sultan to make a last application for Mr. Park’s papers.
+He would give no decisive answer; but in the course of the day, he said
+he would tell the chief of the Arabs everything relative to them, and
+would send him to us with the information. Accordingly, in the
+afternoon, the old man came as commanded; but instead of delivering the
+expected communication, he said that we should certainly inspect the
+books to-morrow; and in the mean time, the sultan would thank us to sell
+him some gunpowder, and whatever red cloth we might have left. This
+refinement in begging, or in other words, this mean rapaciousness on the
+part of the sultan, was never more apparent than in this instance. He
+had previously requested us to sell him a quantity of beads, &c., to
+which he expressed a wish that we should affix our own price. We did so;
+but on applying for payment, he has uniformly returned for answer, that
+we had asked too large a sum for those articles. Notwithstanding this,
+we gave the Arab the powder and red cloth which he had requested in the
+name of his master, with a message that the sultan was at liberty to
+give whatever he thought proper for them. Instead, however, of returning
+us the money, he has kept the goods without making the slightest
+acknowledgment; and sent an eunuch in the evening to beg a few needles,
+which of course it would be impolitic to refuse.
+
+_Monday, July 5th._—It has rained very heavily all day, insomuch that on
+our parts we could not visit the sultan, nor could a messenger come from
+him to us.
+
+_Tuesday, July 6th._—This forenoon we sent Paskoe with a message to the
+sultan, that we earnestly wished to receive a final and decisive answer
+with regard to the restoration of Mr. Park’s papers, which we declared
+to have been the sole object of our visiting him, and that it was our
+desire to quit Yàoorie immediately. This bold, and to us unusual
+language, seemed to have surprised and startled the sultan, and he
+instantly despatched the old Arab to inform us, that ‘he declared to
+G—d, in the most solemn manner, that he had never had in his possession,
+nor seen, any books or papers of the white travellers that perished at
+Boossà.’ The Arab likewise assured us that we were at liberty to proceed
+on our journey whenever we should think proper. Thus, notwithstanding
+all the false hopes which the sultan artfully held out to us, that Mr.
+Park’s papers were actually in his possession, his letter to Captain
+Clapperton, which expressly stated this to be the case, and the pitiful
+shuffling which he has displayed to keep us so long in suspense with
+respect to any true information, it appears then, without doubt, that he
+has not, and never has had, a single book or paper in the English
+language. His only motive for the dastardly conduct he has displayed,
+could have been neither more nor less than the hope of getting us into
+his power by misrepresentation and falsehood, in order to obtain some of
+the European articles which we had in our possession. That the sultan
+has succeeded so well with us has not been our fault entirely; but even
+now he is by no means satisfied, nor is it likely that he will be whilst
+we remain with him. It is a satisfaction at least for us to know that
+the long-sought papers are at present no where in existence.
+
+_Wednesday, July 7th._—Yàoorie is a large, flourishing, and united
+kingdom. It is bounded on the east by Hàussa, on the west by Borgoo, on
+the north by Cubbie, and on the south by the kingdom of Nouffie. The
+crown is hereditary, and the government an absolute despotism. The
+former sultan was deposed by his subjects for his violent measures and
+general bad conduct; and the present ruler, who succeeded him, has
+reigned for the long period of thirty-nine years. The sultan has a
+strong military force, which has successfully repelled, it is said, the
+repeated attacks which the ever-restless Falàtahs for a number of years
+past made on the city and kingdom of Yàoorie; it is now employed in a
+remote province in quelling a rising insurrection, occasioned partly
+from the inability of the natives to pay their accustomed tribute, and
+partly from the harsh measures adopted by the sultan to compel them to
+do so. The city of Yàoorie is of prodigious extent, and is supposed to
+be as populous as any other in the whole continent, or at least that
+part of it which is visited by the trading Arabs. Its wall is high and
+very excellent, though made of clay alone, and may be between twenty and
+thirty miles in circuit; and it has eight vast entrance-gates or doors,
+which are well fortified after the manner of the country. The
+inhabitants manufacture a very coarse and inferior sort of gunpowder,
+which, however, is the best, and we believe the only manufactory of the
+kind in this part of the country; besides which they make very neat
+saddles, country cloth, &c.; and they grow indigo, tobacco, onions,
+wheat, and different kinds of grain; and vast quantities of rice, of
+superior quality. The inhabitants have likewise horses, bullocks, goats,
+&c., but notwithstanding their industry and the advantages which they
+enjoy, they are very poorly clad, have little money, and are perpetually
+complaining of their bad condition. An indifferent market is held in the
+city daily under commodious sheds, in which the above articles are
+offered for sale.
+
+The better sort of women, or those that can afford time and money for
+the purpose, wear their hair plated very ingeniously, and dyed blue with
+indigo; their lips are likewise stained yellow and blue, which gives
+them an inexpressibly odd appearance; and their eyes are blackened with
+powdered antimony, or something of the same nature and properties, which
+is imported from a place called _Jacoba_. This is in general use, not
+only here, but in every other place which we have visited.
+
+The use of hennah is as general at Yàoorie as elsewhere; the more
+opulent females make use of this most beautiful dye in profusion: they
+simply apply the pounded leaves of this plant to the teeth, and to the
+finger and toe nails; for the latter it is made into a kind of poultice,
+and in the evening is put on those parts, and remains till next morning.
+The poorer sort of females, however, from necessity, we suppose, rather
+than from inclination, make use of neither of these ornaments to enhance
+their natural charms; and, save tattooing, they have no personal
+embellishments whatever.
+
+The sultan’s residence, as well as the houses of many of the principals
+inhabitants of the city, are two stories in height, having thick and
+clumsy stairs of clay leading to the upper apartments, which are rather
+lofty; and, together with rooms on the ground-floor, have door-ways
+sufficiently large to enable a person to enter them without putting
+himself to the inconvenience of stooping. The principal part of the
+houses are built in the circular or coozie fashion, but the inhabitants
+have a few square ones; and the sultan’s are of no regular form
+whatever. It may be considered somewhat singular that the generality of
+the natives of western and central, and, we believe, also of northern
+Africa, ‘moisten the floors of their huts and the inside of their walls
+with a solution of cow-dung and water, two or three times a day, or as
+often as they can find the materials.’ ‘Though disagreeable to the smell
+of an European, this keeps the interior of a dwelling as cool as it is
+dark.’ We should have thought that Dr. Johnson, from whom this quotation
+is taken, was speaking of the native dwellings of this part of the
+world, instead of those of the East Indies, so exactly does he describe
+them.
+
+Between the clusters or assemblages of huts in Yàoorie there is a
+considerable quantity of fertile land, which is left for cattle to graze
+on, or for the purposes of husbandry and agriculture.
+
+There is a great variety of trees within the walls of the city,
+consisting of the lime, the palm, the mi-cadania, and the date; but the
+latter, though it appears very luxuriant, never was known to bear fruit.
+The palm tree adorns the banks of the Niger, and increases in quantity
+the further we advance up the river; yet that variety of it which bears
+the cocoa-nut is nowhere to be seen, owing, most likely, to the distance
+from the sea. For a reason, already given in a preceding part of this
+Journal, no proper estimation can be formed of the number of inhabitants
+which Yàoorie contains, but it is surprisingly great.
+
+_Thursday and Friday, July 8th and 9th._—During both these days we have
+been honoured with long visits from the sultan’s daughters, eldest son,
+and sister; the faces of the former are familiar, because they come to
+see us every day. The old Arab also visited us on Thursday morning, to
+pay his respects, according to his custom; but when he entered the
+apartment and discovered the heir apparent in conversation with us, he
+seemed surprised and displeased, and immediately ordered the young man
+to quit the apartment with his suite, which was instantly obeyed by the
+prince, without a syllable of complaint or disapprobation at this
+peremptory command. We subsequently desired an explanation of such
+arbitrary conduct on the part of the Arab, and he informed us, in
+answer, that it was done in order to prevent the young man from
+soliciting us for poison, which he might employ in the destruction of
+his father’s life,—so suspicious are the sovereigns of this country of
+the intentions of even their own children.
+
+The sultan has sent to inform us that he will be occupied three days in
+writing to the king of England an explanation of his conduct with
+respect to Mr. Park’s papers; and he would therefore thank us to remain
+in Yàoorie till the expiration of that period.
+
+A _fatàkie_, which left this city for Koolfu this (Friday) morning, had
+orders from the sultan to return while they were on their journey; and
+they accordingly re-entered Yàoorie in the afternoon. It is reported
+that the ringleader of the insurgents in _Engarski_, the province in
+which the customary tribute was refused to be paid, left the rebels a
+short time ago to fight for themselves, and fled to the kingdom of
+Nouffie. On his arrival he besought the Magīa to assist him against the
+soldiers of Yàoorie, and succeeded so far, that assistance was promised
+him by the Nouffie king; but as soon as this news had reached Engarski,
+the sultan’s soldiers all deserted their posts, and returned to him
+without delay. Both these days the men have been entering the city; and
+they have brought with them only between forty and fifty slaves. This is
+the reason that the fatàkie were stopped on their way to Koolfu; and in
+all probability, if the news be true, it will likewise affect our
+journey thither.
+
+This evening the war-drum was sounded outside the sultan’s house; the
+noise of which is not peculiarly loud or dissonant, and is a much more
+_civilized_ kind of sound than the startling war-cry of the people of
+Yarriba and Borgoo. The sultan has just sent word that he wishes to see
+us to-morrow morning concerning the price of the red cloth which he
+recently purchased of us; and at the same time he desires to see a
+specimen of each kind of button in our possession, because he has a
+great inclination to purchase a quantity, or the whole of them, for the
+use of himself and family. By the man that brought us this message, he
+sent us, for the first time, a number of goora nuts, alleging, as an
+excuse for not offering us any before, that he did not imagine that
+Christians liked them.
+
+_Saturday, July 10th._—Horse-soldiers are continuing to arrive by one
+and two at a time from Engarski, and the dead body of one of their
+captains has likewise been brought into the city. This individual came
+by his death in rather a mysterious manner, insomuch, that the public
+opinion is divided on the subject; some saying that he fell by an arrow,
+and others asserting with equal confidence that he was poisoned by his
+wife, who, after the consummation of her crime, fled to the embraces of
+an Arab who had been her lover before her marriage with the deceased.
+
+During the war, which has continued these four months, the loss on the
+part of Yàoorie has been about a half-dozen men killed, and the
+slaughter on the part of the rebels, it is said, has been no less. This
+sanguinary contest is a specimen of their warfare, so that there will
+never be any great danger of depopulation from foreign wars or domestic
+broils.
+
+The sultan has been shut up in his house all day, and will not be spoken
+to, owing to the ill-success of the Engarski expedition; but though this
+circumstance is publicly known, the inhabitants of the city have shown
+no inclination to mourn with their sovereign; on the contrary, they have
+been employed in making a ‘_berka_’ (blessing) for the safe return of
+the warriors, and feasting, rejoicing, and merriment were freely
+indulged in, this evening, in consequence. In the midst of their
+jollity, however, the people were thrown into confusion by a rumour,
+that the ‘clashing of arms’ was heard in Koolfu,’ or in other words,
+that preparations were making in that city for a _great_ war; that
+Falàtahs and Nouffie men were assembling there from all quarters; and
+that they were on the eve of making a fierce attack either on Wowow or
+the metropolis of Engarski; but which of these cities is to be devoted
+to destruction no one can tell. Groupes of people are expressing their
+hopes and fears in whispers, in every part of the city.
+
+_Sunday, July 11th._—Having been sent for, I visited the sultan to-day
+with a piece of red cloth, two pair of scissors, a quantity of buttons,
+and a canister of powder. When introduced, I found him cheerful and
+merry, and his good humour continued throughout our interview. He
+observed, that the war which was just terminated had cost him a great
+deal of money, so that he regretted his inability to pay so large a sum
+for the articles as I had demanded. At length, after a little civil
+contention on both sides, a bargain was made, by the sultan’s agreeing
+to give twenty-five thousand cowries for the powder, scissors, and red
+cloth, and two hundred cowries for every _little_ button that we have,
+which he prefers to the larger ones. Four hundred were asked; but as
+these little buttons are the commonest sort, and have been besides much
+worn, I did not long hesitate in acceding to his terms. In allusion to
+our departure, the sultan observed, that the path was dangerous, but
+when the obstacles should be removed, which would doubtless be in a few
+days, and when his letter to the monarch of England should be written,
+we might quit the city without further delay, for which intelligence I
+thanked him and took my leave.
+
+The sultan sent us a large ostrich a day or two ago, to look at, and
+subsequently offered to give it to us, but as this immense bird would
+require two or three men to take care of him on the road homewards, we
+declined to take him, and could only thank the sultan for his intended
+kindness.
+
+_Monday, July 12th._—Nothing of consequence has occurred to-day in the
+city. The greater part of the morning was employed in cleaning and
+polishing the buttons promised to the sultan, who had sent for them
+before they were finished. Two or three of his daughters are our daily
+visitors, and they trifle a good deal of their time away in our company.
+They sometimes bring with them a pleasant intoxicating liquor called
+‘booza’ (a kind of beer), which they offer us to drink; but they
+contrive to get tipsy with it themselves. These ladies are occasionally
+so troublesome, that we are obliged to frighten them away with our
+pistols.
+
+_Tuesday, July 13th._—The ‘great war,’ for which there was said to have
+been such mighty preparations in Nouffie, and which caused so much
+consternation in this city an evening or two ago, has terminated in the
+capture of a herd of the king of Wowow’s bullocks near the walls of his
+town. The plunderers, it is said, were incited to undertake this
+predatory excursion, by the representations of that wicked and turbulent
+woman, widow Zuma, through the agency of her son, who, since his
+elopement from Wowow, has been residing in some part of Nouffie. The
+widow imagined that she was not safe in Boossà, after this malicious
+act, and she left that city and fled to a town in the province of
+Engarski. But the governor refused her his protection, and sent her back
+again to Boossà with an escort; and the king, in all probability, will
+either deliver her into the hands of the monarch of Wowow, in which case
+she will lose her head, or he will have her severely punished at Boossà.
+
+The sultan told us to-day in plain and decisive terms, that he can send
+us neither by way of Koolfu nor Guârie, because the Falàtahs, he
+affirms, are in both those places. He wishes, however, to be expressly
+understood, that it is from no disinclination on his part to send us to
+either of those places, but that his great regard for us will not permit
+him to lead us into danger. Now we know very well that the Falàtahs have
+neither the upper hand at Koolfu nor Guarie. The natives of the latter
+state in particular, not long since cut off the heads of all the
+Falàtahs that could be found in their country, and from that time they
+have enjoyed the most perfect independence. The sultan of Yàoorie said
+further, that the best thing he could do was to send us back again to
+Boossà, and from thence he was sure we might have liberty to go any
+where. The moment we found that this was his intention, we returned to
+our house, and having formed our resolution, we instantly dispatched one
+of our men with a message to the king of Boossà, to the following
+effect:
+
+‘That finding our presents insufficient to defray our expenses on the
+road to Guarie and Bornou, we were under the necessity of returning to
+the salt-water, to obtain more. That the chief of Badágry, who is
+governor of that part of the coast, at which we had landed, had treated
+us so very ill, while we were with him, that he would detain us in his
+town for the remainder of our lives, if we were to return by the way we
+had come, and by so doing that we should be unable to avoid falling into
+his power. Besides which, the journey thither is so long, that we should
+experience the same, or even greater inconvenience, than if we were to
+proceed to Bornou through Catsheenah. Under these circumstances, we were
+extremely desirous of travelling to the salt-water by a shorter and
+safer route, and would therefore prefer going by Funda, as the easiest
+and likeliest means of accomplishing that end. But as we had heard that
+the road to that kingdom by land is infested with Falàtahs, who live by
+plunder and violence, we should feel infinitely obliged to him (the king
+of Boossà), if he could either sell or lend us a canoe to proceed
+thither by water; and if so, that we would remunerate him to the utmost
+of our ability.’
+
+We sent away the messenger this morning on his errand, and shall await
+his return with considerable anxiety. If an unfavourable answer be
+returned, we are resolved, instead of proceeding to Boossà, to proceed
+on to Guarie, and thence to Funda, as we originally intended, whatever
+may be the consequence.
+
+_Wednesday, July 14th._—We were favoured with visits this morning from
+several respectable females, the wives and daughters of a number of
+distinguished chiefs, whom they had accompanied to the late war. The
+inhabitants of this place, as well as of many other towns, are of
+opinion that it is in our power to cure every disorder under the sun.
+Applications are daily made to us for medicine to cure a variety of
+complaints; and more than one married lady has been intreating us to
+remove the cause of barrenness from them. Other requests, equally
+serious and equally absurd, have been made, with which of course it is
+wholly out of our power to comply; but the applicants do not readily
+believe our assertions, nor can we induce or compel them to leave our
+house till something in the shape of medicine has been given them.
+
+_Thursday, July 15th._—Falàtahs, it is said, have pillaged and burnt the
+city of Engarski, and taken Koolfu, so that the road to Boossà is also
+for the present denied us. These ‘setters up and pullers down of kings,’
+for some reason, are offended with the Magīa, the present monarch of
+Nouffie, and have determined to appoint his elder brother, the exiled
+Ederesa, as ruler in his stead. Several revolutions have already taken
+place in Nouffie, through the instrumentality of these ambitious
+Falàtahs, which have all terminated in the confusion of the greater part
+of that distracted country, and to the advancement of their deadliest
+foes, who have now gained a footing in the land.
+
+We have been repeatedly informed that Ederesa succeeded his father in
+the government of Nouffie, and was acknowledged their legitimate monarch
+by the whole nation. A rebellion, however,, headed by the Magīa,
+(Ederesa’s younger brother,) broke out shortly after his accession; and
+to aid his ambitious designs upon the liberties of the people, the
+former made a journey to Soccatoo, to request the assistance of Bello.
+This wily chief eagerly seized so fair an opportunity of promoting the
+interests of his country, by meddling with the domestic policy of the
+government of Nouffie; he had wisdom enough to foresee the advantages
+which would in all probability accrue to him, by granting the Magīa his
+request, and taking him under his protection; and he immediately
+reinforced the rebels by a choice body of soldiers. This first civil war
+was not of long continuance; Ederesa’s army was defeated by the
+mercenary troops and their adherents; the whole country was soon overrun
+and subjugated by these soldiers; Ederesa was obliged to flee from his
+dominions, and the Magīa governed Nouffie in his stead. The chief
+benefits resulting to Bello from the success of the rebels, were a half-
+yearly tribute which the Magīa agreed to pay him, in slaves, and
+handsome tobes of native manufacture; and what was of more consequence,
+he gained a footing for his people in a flourishing and beautiful
+kingdom, which may be styled the granary of this part of the continent.
+
+The Falàtah soldiers remained in Nouffie to defend and support the
+interests of the new king; but the country did not long enjoy peace and
+tranquillity, for the foreigners observing their influence and numbers
+considerably augmenting, found occasion to quarrel with the Magīa, which
+was the occasion of another civil war. Turning from him whom they had
+elevated to the throne, they recalled Ederesa, and succeeded, after an
+ineffectual resistance on the part of his brother, in restoring him to
+the dignity, of which they themselves had so eagerly stripped him only a
+short time before. Ederesa subsequently formed the patriotic and
+laudable resolution of expelling these dangerous and intriguing
+strangers from his dominions; for he was convinced that his country
+would never be at peace whilst they were suffered to remain in it. No
+sooner, however, did he set about putting this project into execution,
+than his watchful brother raised a party in opposition to it, and the
+Falàtahs of course flew to his assistance. The fruit of this combination
+was the total defeat of the king’s party, and the re-institution of the
+Magīa into his former usurped rights. Meantime the Falàtahs increased
+fast in Nouffie, they inhabited towns which they had not built, and
+subsisted by the labour of others. The head of their party was a cousin
+of Bello, named Mallam Dendo, who resided on the banks of the Niger, in
+a large city of his own, which is called _Rabba_. He and the Magīa
+divided the sovereignty of the kingdom between them till very recently,
+and remained at peace with each other; but now, they say, there has been
+a third quarrel, and the Falàtahs have taken possession of Koolfu, till
+Ederesa shall have been made acquainted with the revolution in his
+favour. The Magīa is too helpless and insignificant to offer the
+slightest resistance to this intended change in his estate, and is
+living in retirement at a town about a day and a half’s journey from
+Koolfu. These domestic broils have been very prejudicial to the
+interests of Nouffie, and the people greatly lament their misfortunes.
+The Falàtahs are the only gainers by them; they are now in actual
+possession of more than half of the kingdom, and have enslaved a very
+large portion of its industrious population. Some of the finest and most
+opulent of their towns have been sacked and destroyed, and others they
+have taken for themselves. In this distracted state of affairs, Nouffie,
+whose inhabitants, it is everywhere acknowledged, are the most ingenious
+and industrious in all these parts, is fast falling to decay, and is
+become a prey to all manner of abuses, and to every species of crime.
+
+_Friday, July 16th._—Although the Falàtahs have been so successful in
+Nouffie, and are gradually spreading themselves throughout the countries
+composing Western Africa, so as to be near the sea, where it is the
+great object of their ambition to get, they have within this year or two
+suffered many defeats, and lost much ground in Hàussa, which is the
+scene of their first operations, and they are likely to lose much more.
+The following are the names of the kingdoms or states which form the
+country called Hàussa. With the exception of _Kotonkora_ and _Womba_,
+they were all conquered by Danfodid shortly after his first appearance
+with the Falátahs; but those marked with an asterisk have regained their
+independence since his decease. That marked with an F. is now in the
+occupation of the conquerors; and those with F. and H. partly belong to
+the Falátahs and partly to the original natives. Catsheenah was the head
+or principal state, and all the others used to pay a small tribute to
+its sovereign.
+
+ 1. Catsheenah, F. H.
+
+ 2. Cubbie, *
+
+ 3. Guarie, *
+
+ 4. Zumfra, F. H.
+
+ 5. Kano, F.
+
+ 6. Gober, *
+
+ 7. Kotonkora, Natives.
+
+ 8. Womba, Natives.
+
+Catsheenah, the capital of Hàussa, in the state or kingdom of
+Catsheenah, together with an insignificant town, are the only two places
+at present in the possession of the Falátahs in that country. Soccatoo
+stands on the extreme borders of Cubbie, yet it is not considered as
+being in that province.
+
+The natives of Guarie lately rose simultaneously, and cut off their
+oppressors to a man, nor has Bello yet been able to revenge their loss.
+
+_Zulamee_, and other towns of consideration in Zumfra, have within these
+few months been retaken from the Falátahs. Properly speaking, the
+province of Kano is in Hàussa; but previous to its conquest by the
+Falátahs, it had, from time immemorial, been tributary to Bornou, so
+that it is considered by many as belonging to that empire. The
+inhabitants of the city and state of Gober, against which Bello was
+directing all his power at the period of Captain Clapperton’s last visit
+to Soccatoo, have successfully resisted every attack that has been made
+against them, and are now enjoying tranquillity and independence.
+Doncassà, who is the present king of Catsheenah, resides at a place
+called _Maràdie_.
+
+Doncassà is the hereditary prince of Hàussa, and notwithstanding his
+former misfortunes and reverses, he is still very powerful, and his
+strength daily increases. The Sheikh of Bornou assists him with men and
+horses; and his son is also with him, fighting against the common enemy.
+Doncassà, it is said, can bring no less than forty thousand horsemen
+into the field at one time. Recently his military operations have been
+attended with better success; and Bello, despairing of vanquishing him
+and of subjugating the whole of his country, is turning his thoughts to
+the conquest of Yarriba. His soldiers have already spread a panic
+through that kingdom, and frightened the timid natives out of two or
+three of their most important towns, and they will have very little
+difficulty in depriving them of the whole. It is said that after the
+rains the Falátah monarch will send a strong military force to complete
+the conquest of Yarriba, and that experienced captains are already
+nominated to accompany the expedition. In the mean time Bello is at war
+with Bornou and some of the states of Hàussa; and many thousands of his
+men, fearing no law, and having no ostensible employment, are scattered
+over the whole face of the country. They commit all sorts of crimes;
+they plunder, they burn, they destroy, and even murder, and are not
+amenable to any earthly tribunal for their actions.
+
+The boasted good government of Bello does not extend beyond the
+precincts of Soccatoo. In other parts of his empire the civil department
+of his administration is most wretchedly conducted, and hence the
+predatory bands of Falátahs which annually go forth to ravage the
+country.
+
+_Saturday, July 17th._—The sultan’s daughters are very numerous; and in
+accordance with the usual custom of the country, we have been obliged to
+make them a present of a button, or a string of beads, or some such
+trifle. Many of these ladies are not very young, for they have passed
+the meridian of life; but notwithstanding their seniority, they have had
+bitter disputes and quarrels with their sisters for the fancied better
+place which the latter have in our good graces, and the consequent
+kinder treatment which they have experienced at our hands. A breach is
+thus made in the affections of the royal sisters towards each other, and
+it may be years before domestic harmony is re-established among them.
+One or other of these females complains to us every day of having been
+engaged in wrangling or fighting with a sister, on the score of
+jealousy; and we are obliged to muster all our patience and condole with
+them in their little misfortunes, without, however, having the ability
+to relieve them. The Arab, who appears to be the sultan’s factotum, came
+to see us this morning, agreeably to his usual practice; and with joy
+sparkling in his countenance, he informed us that his master had been
+inquiring for a canoe in which we may return to Boossà. We wished to
+know when the sultan would be inclined to give us permission to leave
+Yàoorie. ‘What,’ said he, ‘is not the news I have told you sufficient
+for one day?’
+
+The Arabs in this place (Yàoorie) and all those that have passed through
+the city since our arrival in it, who have had no connexion whatever
+with each other, have assured us that the Niger flows from a place
+called _Musser_ (query _Mesr_), where silks and other fine articles are
+manufactured, and that the natives of that country trade to Timbuctoo in
+large vessels, carrying thither their silks and manufactures.
+
+We have neither been able to ascertain the European name of _Musser_,
+nor its distance from Timbuctoo; we can only learn that the space
+between the two cities is very great indeed.
+
+In this part of Africa not the slightest jealousy exists in respect to
+the Niger or any other river, for the people cheerfully answer every
+inquiry concerning what they may happen to know of its course, &c.
+
+_Sunday, July 18th._—Our man has not yet returned from Boossà, and
+nothing has taken place to-day worthy of observation or remark.
+
+_Monday, July 19th._—The premises which we occupy are situated at the
+northern end of the city, and are the property of one of the sultan’s
+married daughters, who, with her family, accompanied her husband to the
+late war, and returned from thence only a few days ago.
+
+They form a little circular enclosure of huts, one of which is two
+stories high; and it has the convenience of three small yards, in which
+is good stabling for the horses. From the distance of time which elapsed
+after the departure of the sultan’s warlike daughter to the period of
+our arrival at Yàoorie, the houses had fallen fast to decay, so that
+when we were introduced into them, one or two of the roofs were entirely
+wanting, and the rain, which fell daily, was freely admitted into all
+the remainder for want of repair, that with two stories alone being an
+exception. For our own comfort, therefore, we took possession of the
+upper room of this hut, which is a long, narrow, and gloomy apartment,
+having a solid clay floor, and five or six small apertures, like pigeon-
+holes, for the purpose of admitting light and air.
+
+As we have been unable, from the almost constant rain and the marshy
+nature of the soil of Yàoorie, to walk abroad, this room has been, in a
+great measure, our prison, for we have rarely stirred out of it. During
+the first few days and nights after our arrival we were pretty
+comfortable, and, every thing considered, we liked our quarters
+tolerably well; but an envious wind having blown a swarm of mosquitoes
+into our apartment, we have ever since been deprived of sleep at night.
+And as if this were not an evil sufficiently annoying, we are likewise
+visited by myriads of gnats, cockroaches, black ants, &c.; besides a
+number of bats, which flutter even in our faces, and cause us much
+uneasiness. Other descriptions of animals and insects intrude into our
+apartment in the night season, which however do not molest us. Under
+this pressure of grievances, my brother and I, finding it impossible to
+sleep, either sit up or lie awake, and employ ourselves in doling away
+the long and wearisome hours of the night in chatting about indifferent
+matters, or in reading aloud, by lamp-light, some moral or religious
+work. As soon as the light or dawn of the morning penetrates our dismal
+chamber, our tormentors cease to molest us, and we generally find this
+the most favourable time for procuring a little sleep. But then the
+whole world is awake and abroad; and human visitors, whose society is
+scarcely less tolerable than the visitation of our nightly companions,
+intrude their unwelcome persons on our sleeping moments, and compel us
+to listen and answer to their vexatious nonsense. Deprived of our
+natural rest, the day is spent with scarcely more enjoyment than the
+night;—we are heavy, languid, peevish, and uncomfortable, and wholly
+unfit for exertion of any kind. The happy freedom from such torture as
+this in Old England, can only be appreciated by those who have
+experienced it; even an hour of such relief now would be worth more than
+we could express.
+
+This forenoon our Boossà messenger returned, and, to our unspeakable
+joy, informed us that the king had consented to procure for us a canoe,
+to proceed to Funda, provided the road by land could not be depended on.
+He candidly stated, however, his inability to protect our persons from
+insult and danger beyond his own territories; and that we must solicit
+the good-will of the prince of Wowow and the other rulers on the banks
+of the Niger; and further, that our own men alone must manage the canoe,
+because no one at Boossà would be willing, for various reasons, to
+accompany us in this journey. We are therefore in a fair way of
+accomplishing the object of the expedition; and though we are convinced
+that we shall be beset with dangers from the shore, yet we are in high
+spirits, and humbly hope that, by attending to the necessary
+precautions, we shall be able to overcome them.
+
+_Tuesday, July 20th._—The news of the day is very agreeable to all ranks
+of the good people of this city. A body of Falátahs, amounting to about
+two hundred in number, which left Koolfu a few days since for the
+purpose of attacking Engarski, or rather the remains of that body,
+returned yesterday morning to that town, having been completely
+unsuccessful in the object of their expedition, owing to the jealousy
+and apprehension of the rebels. It appears, that whilst they were
+besieging an insignificant _Cumbrie town_ in the above province, a
+contagious disease broke out among them, and reduced fifty of their
+number to a state of the greatest misery and helplessness. The
+remainder, becoming alarmed at this frightful disorder, fled with the
+utmost precipitation, and left their sick and languid companions to the
+mercy of their enemies, who, however, showed them none, for as soon as
+they became acquainted with the departure of their besiegers, a number
+of them came out armed, and with savage coolness deliberately cut off
+the heads of their helpless and prostrate foes, and immediately
+despatched intelligence of the bloody exploit to the sultan of Yàoorie.
+The road to Boossà is by this means once more declared to be open, and
+we shall leave hence as soon as we receive permission. The sultan has
+not yet paid the money he owed us, nor, since the sale of the buttons,
+&c., have we heard a single sentence about the matter. Our cowries,
+likewise, are nearly expended; and for this fortnight past we have
+depended for subsistence on Paskoe’s success in shooting. Happily,
+Guinea-fowl, of the most delicious flavour, and large doves, abound here
+in amazing numbers; and a large species of wild duck, besides geese,
+cranes, widgeons, herons, and other aquatic fowl, are most plentiful.
+
+_Wednesday, July 21st._—Last night we were visited by an awful and
+terrible tornado, which lasted for two or three hours. It commenced
+about midnight with a gust of wind which threatened to overturn our
+dwelling-house. Never since we have been in the country have we heard
+thunder so loud and tremendous, nor seen lightning so excessively vivid.
+Our hut rocked as if it had been shaken by an earthquake, and we were in
+momentary apprehension of its falling with us to the ground; the tempest
+however became less and less violent in the midst of our fears, and soon
+after it ceased altogether, and an universal stillness prevailed.
+
+Owing to the wet weather and the moist state of the atmosphere, most of
+our friends the sultan’s daughters have caught slight colds, and they
+have been very importunate to-day in their entreaties for medicine. We
+hardly knew what to give them to ease their complaints, and we hesitated
+a good deal about complying with their wishes; but as they are not very
+delicate ladies, being stout withal, and masculine as Hercules, we at
+length resolved to risk the consequences, and accordingly administered
+to each of them a powerful dose of jalap.
+
+The Falátahs in Nouffie are thrown into the utmost consternation by the
+reported death of their chief and leader, Mallam Dendo, which is said to
+have taken place at Rabba two or three days ago. The deceased was much
+esteemed by Bello, and reverenced by his countrymen. A successor will be
+immediately appointed, to counteract any fresh disturbance which may
+take place in the country.
+
+The sultan of this place puts off our departure from day to day, and
+from week to week, under a variety of nonsensical excuses; and we are
+persuaded that it is his intention to detain us here till he has drained
+us of everything we have.
+
+_Monday, July 26th._—For the last five days my brother has been laid up
+with intermittent fever, which totally disqualified him from making the
+slightest exertion whatever till this morning. The sultan continuing,
+day after day, for so long a time to refuse his permission for us to
+quit Yàoorie, on grounds the most inconsistent and contradictory that
+can be imagined, we became rather apprehensive that he would detain us
+for an indefinite period—much longer indeed than might suit our
+convenience: but to-day, to our surprise and pleasure, a messenger from
+the king of Boossà arrived in this city to ascertain the reason of such
+unwarrantable conduct on the part of the sultan, and to request our
+immediate release, so that it is supposed we shall leave hence in a day
+or two at the latest. One of the _inducements_ urged by this monarch for
+our longer stay with him, is rather whimsical. He has made us a present
+of a quantity of worthless feathers, which he had caused to be plucked
+from the body of a live ostrich; and because he entertained an opinion
+that if others were added to them, they would altogether form a very
+acceptable present to our gracious sovereign, he informed us that it
+would be necessary we should wait till such time as the ostrich should
+regain its plumage, in order for that part of its body which had not
+been previously plucked to undergo a similar operation; for the weather,
+he asserted, was much too cold for the bird to lose all its feathers at
+one and the same time. And further, to encourage their growth, he would
+order that two thousand cowries worth of butter (about twelve pounds
+weight) should be diligently rubbed into the skin of the animal. This
+money has actually been deducted by the sultan, for this express
+purpose, from the sum which he was indebted to us, because he said he
+did not approve of paying for the butter from his own pocket.
+
+When a person entertains fear or suspicion of the intentions of another
+towards him, it very commonly happens that every little thing which he
+might have heard unfavourable to the character, or prejudicial to the
+manners of the latter at any former period, rises fresh in his memory,
+though he might have taken no notice of it at the time, and leads to the
+establishment and confirmation of an opinion which had before been
+unsettled and wavering in his mind. This has been very nearly our case
+in regard to the sultan of Yàoorie; and owing most likely to ill health,
+rather than any other cause, we had not only come to a conclusion,
+before the arrival of the Boossà ambassador, that we were in ‘durance
+vile’ here, but had conceived a thousand ways and means of making our
+escape privately from the city! The violent detention of the six Dahoman
+messengers within the walls of Yàoorie for a whole six months, without
+any cause being assigned for it, has already been alluded to in Captain
+Clapperton’s last narrative; and many similar injurious actions on the
+part of the sultan have been related to us by some of his own people.
+But he has been guilty of more treacherous and criminal deeds than these
+both to native merchants and to Arabs who have visited this city for the
+purposes of trade; and the following story, if it be true, argues very
+unfavourably for the monarch’s sentiments of feeling, honesty, and
+justice:—
+
+An Arab, it is said, arrived here many years ago with three camel-loads
+of merchandise from Tripoli, and according to the custom of the country
+he displayed them all before the sultan of Yàoorie. His admiration of
+them was very soon raised, and he purchased the whole of the Arab’s
+goods on credit. The poor merchant made repeated and pressing
+applications for his money, but in vain; and month after month, and year
+after year passed away, without his ever having received a farthing, the
+sultan deceiving him with promises continually. The Arab became at
+length very uneasy at the sultan’s prevarication, and imagined that he
+should never receive payment for his goods. He was therefore unable to
+exercise his forbearance any longer, but was constrained to demand of
+his creditor the restitution of his property, or the payment of his
+debt, that he might depart from the city and return to his family. But
+the covetous sultan pertinaciously refused his request, and sent him
+away with abuse; and the Arab shortly after died of a broken heart, or,
+as many say, of poison. He left behind him, however, at Yàoorie, his
+eldest son, who had accompanied his father hither from Fezzan. This
+person the sultan deluded with promises similar to those by which his
+father had been deceived; and the young man abode in the city several
+years in the anticipation of being able to procure the property which
+had devolved to him on the Arab’s decease. He also died not long ago,
+and the boy’s uncle (Moussa, of Koolfu), who was employed by Captain
+Clapperton, is now the only surviving creditor. He has sent several
+messengers here with the view of having the debt cancelled by the
+sultan; but up to this day the money has never been paid, nor have the
+Arab’s camels, nor any part of his property, been restored to his
+surviving relative.
+
+During our own short stay, even, the sultan has been guilty of several
+petty offences, such as defrauding individuals of small sums, and the
+like; and one poor fellow, belonging to a _fatàkie_ from Hàussa, has had
+the imprudence to let him have some of his property, on the faith of his
+word, in return for which he has met with nothing but promises and
+refusals. The sultan did, indeed, command him to purchase whatever
+things he might want at the market, and refer the seller to him for
+payment; independent of this, as a mark of his favour, he sold the
+merchant one of his own bullocks, which is however found to be diseased
+and worth nothing. By such mean subterfuges does this great prince
+procure the property of others; and in this manner does he treat every
+merchant that may have occasion to pass through the city.
+
+All these circumstances considered, it was with much pleasure that we
+received notice of the king of Boossà’s kind interposition in our
+behalf, which will at least accelerate our departure; for though, when
+soberly considered, the behaviour of the Yàoorie monarch towards us has
+not been on the whole unkind, forming a strange compound of generosity
+and meanness, yet he might have been inclined to detain us here till the
+only favourable moment at which we could descend the Niger should have
+passed away, in which case we should have to retrace our steps the way
+we have come without having accomplished the object for which we had
+left England.
+
+We have now only to arrange matters with this singular old chieftain,
+which we foresee will be no very easy task. It is confidently affirmed,
+that a canoe has been prepared for us, and two days hence, we have
+little doubt, permission will be granted for us to leave this city to
+return to Boossà.
+
+_Thursday, July 29th._—The sultan has been complaining sadly of poverty
+these two days, and has begged us to accept a female slave of him in
+lieu of the money he owed us, and which he has declared his inability to
+pay. We hesitated a good deal at first about the matter, but we soon
+felt convinced it would be useless to demur, for the sultan was fixed in
+his determination, and we have taken the girl, who is become Paskoe’s
+wife. This unpleasant affair was not settled till this morning, owing to
+the above cause.
+
+We brought a quantity of new shillings with us from England, which are
+vastly admired by all classes of people here, on account of their
+shining property; and whilst the Spanish dollar sells for fifteen
+hundred cowries only, one of these little pieces is purchased willingly
+at a thousand. Each of these coins is attached to a ring, and worn on
+the finger of a lady as an ornament.
+
+Yàoorie has been visited with so much rain lately, that the corn is
+rotting on the stalk, and it is by no means likely that the dry weather
+will commence for some time to come. The corn is fully ripe, and only
+wants a little sun to harden the grain in the ear; and the people are
+sorely lamenting that they cannot obtain even this. Nevertheless, the
+rice crops look well, and promise an abundant harvest; and the onions,
+of which vast quantities are grown here, are also expected to produce
+plentifully. At present, Yàoorie is little better than a complete swamp;
+and, if possible, it will be worse after the _malca_, which is daily
+looked for, shall have set in.
+
+_Sunday, August 1st._—This morning the sultan sent a messenger to inform
+us that we were at liberty to pay our respects and take our farewell of
+him previous to our departure from the city, which we have been assured
+will take place to-morrow without any further procrastination or delay.
+We presently obeyed the summons, for such we considered it; and on our
+arrival at the sultan’s residence, we were introduced into a large,
+gloomy, uncomfortable apartment, wherein the monarch generally receives
+his more distinguished visitors. A number of naked girls and boys, his
+domestics, were continually passing through it to other parts of the
+building, carrying dirty calabashes in their hands; a quantity of
+swallows’ nests were attached to the ceiling of the room (for neither
+here nor elsewhere are these birds ever molested), and their twittering
+owners, which were flying about in all directions, fed their young
+without interruption, and added not a little filthiness to the unswept
+and unclean apartment. In the centre and opposite the door-way, the
+ruler of Yàoorie was squatting on a platform, which was covered with
+faded damask, and smoking from a pipe of huge dimensions. On each side
+of him was a large pillow; and behind him, affixed to the wall, was a
+large square piece of ancient-looking figured silk, very rich and of
+various colours, with a beautiful deep fringe. It was, however, a little
+tarnished, owing to the length of time it has been in the sultan’s
+possession. This once splendid and valuable article is said to have been
+brought from the celebrated _Musser_[1], a place of which every one here
+speaks in the most rapturous and extravagant terms. The dress of the
+sultan corresponded with the dirtiness of the apartment. Just before our
+introduction we had been cautioned not to offer to shake hands with him,
+for that would be considered too familiar on our parts, and would be
+rejected by the monarch. Our compliments were therefore confined to
+simple inquiries after his health. The conversation during the interview
+was as uninteresting and spiritless as our conversations with other
+native rulers have always been—a description of one being a sample of
+the whole. The most important points were an urgent request on the part
+of the sultan for one of our lancets which he had seen, and the promise
+of a calabash of honey, which we received in the evening. We then took
+our leave and returned home. Here we were soon intruded upon by the
+sultan’s daughters and friends, who, finding that we were actually to go
+on the morrow, had come to purchase buttons, beg medicine, and pay their
+last respects; and we were not only subjected to the most wearisome and
+provoking ceremonies in the world during the remainder of the Sabbath,
+but we were likewise compelled to be bartering and wrangling with a
+parcel of noisy women till sunset, when we ungallantly drove them away.
+
+During our stay at Yàoorie, the thermometer of Fahrenheit has ranged
+from 75° to 94° in our dwelling.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER X.
+
+Leave Yàoorie — Method of watching the Corn — The Cumbrie People — their
+treatment — Sleeping Huts and Spear of the Cumbrie — Arrive at Warree —
+Garnicassa — Ignorance of the Natives concerning the course of the River
+— Their Amusements — Return to Boossà — Visit to Wowow recommended — The
+River consulted by the King of Boossà — Kings of this City — Scarcity of
+Provisions — Journey to Wowow — First interview with the King.
+
+
+_Monday, August 2d._—All was hurry, bustle, noise, and confusion, at a
+very early hour in the morning, in getting our things ready for
+starting; but in spite of our exertions we had to wait a long time
+outside our house, after the beasts had been laden, and our people had
+their burdens on their heads, for the sultan’s long-expected letter to
+our most gracious sovereign. A mallam was at length perceived hurrying
+towards us with it; and after him came, mounted on a large bony horse,
+and extremely well dressed in the costume of his country, the venerable
+Arab chief, to honour us with his company a little way on our journey.
+His appearance was stately and patriarchal in the extreme. But this
+crafty old man was not our friend, for he had used us deceitfully, and
+misrepresented us and our goods to his master; and we had enjoyed an
+innocent kind of revenge, in administering to him, after repeated
+applications, a powerful dose of medicine, which, though harmless in its
+effects, had yet been very troublesome to him. Indeed it was not till we
+had ‘jalaped’ the sultan, his sister, and all the royal family, that we
+were permitted to take our farewell of Yàoorie. The city was literally
+covered with water on our passing through it, and the deep hollows
+formed by the rains were very numerous, and dangerous by being
+invisible; nevertheless, with care and patience, we all got outside the
+gates in safety.
+
+It is pleasant, very pleasant, after an imprisonment of five weeks in a
+close, dark, and unwholesome chamber, subject to every kind of
+inconvenience and much anxiety, to be set at liberty; to know and feel
+that one is free; to admire again the beauties of God’s creation, and
+enjoy once more the cheering freshness of the country. It is only in
+health that such feelings can either be excited or indulged. Objects
+ever so charming are looked on with indifference by an invalid. For our
+parts, we had entered Yàoorie in sickness, and had suffered much in that
+city; but we left it in all the strength and vigour of health. During
+our residence there, the growth of vegetation had been astonishingly
+rapid; the face of the country wore an aspect entirely different and
+improved; the trees and shrubs had put on a greener and lovelier
+‘livery;’ the grasses, stunted as they were before for want of moisture,
+had sprung up to the surprising height of ten or twelve feet; and the
+corn and rice had grown up with no less vigour.
+
+Owing to the reputed badness of the path, that by which we had entered
+Yàoorie was rejected for a more northerly one, leading in almost a
+direct line to the river Cubbie. About a mile or two from the walls of
+Yàoorie, the old Arab stopped suddenly, and we imitating his example, he
+offered up a short though animated Mahommedan prayer for our success,
+and bidding us an affectionate farewell, he turned his horse about and
+returned to the city. In the anticipation of journeying to Guârie, we
+had purchased an ass of Ali, the Arab; and this animal, as well as the
+horses, suffered greatly from the attacks of a species of large fly,
+which is to them by day what mosquitoes are to mankind by night; and
+this evil, combined with the ruggedness and inequality of the road,
+which was intercepted by deep and rapid rivulets, caused us much delay
+and annoyance. About mid-day we arrived at the walls of a pretty
+considerable town, called Guàda, and halted near a small creek of a
+river flowing from Cubbie, and entering the Niger a little lower down.
+Here, as soon as we had taken a slight refreshment, we sent our beasts
+across the Niger to proceed by land to Boossà, and embarked in two
+canoes, which were each paddled by four men. These canoes are about
+eighteen or twenty feet long, and formed from a single log of wood,
+unlike those of Boossà.
+
+When we got into the main body of the Cubbie river, the canoemen kept us
+exposed to the sun for a considerable time, waiting the arrival of two
+companions, because the men with whom we had been supplied were unable
+to manage both canoes by themselves. Though we entreated the four men to
+go a little way with us, or at least to convey us into a cool and shady
+place, which we pointed out to them, for protection from the sun’s rays,
+they would not hearken to us; we found scolding, threats, and
+supplication, to be all equally unavailing; they maintained the same
+calm, yet mortifying placidity of countenance, than which in such a case
+nothing can be more vexing. At length we were fain to hold our peace,
+and patiently resigned ourselves to the inconvenience.
+
+The Cubbie river falls into the Niger about four miles from the creek
+where we had embarked; and on entering the Niger, we found it running
+from two to three miles an hour, and with trifling labour on the part of
+the canoemen, we could have journeyed very rapidly; but though we had
+taken on board their two companions, the whole of them were so
+obstinately indolent, that we travelled very slowly indeed, insomuch
+that we did not expect to arrive at the appointed halting-place for the
+night. The canoes, however, were passing along almost close to the
+shore, and we saw a woman at the water’s edge who had a quantity of
+cheap country beer for sale, and thinking it might animate the men to a
+little more exertion, we purchased as much as they could drink, which in
+a few minutes completely metamorphosed them. The meekness, innocence,
+and composure of their listless countenances soon passed away; their
+heavy eyes sparkled with fire and animation; they trembled all over with
+anxiety to display their strength, dexterity, and vigour; and each being
+emulous to rival his companion, they snatched up their paddles, and by
+their united efforts the canoes glided through the water with
+inconceivable velocity, even to the danger of upsetting. Thus we
+proceeded down the river till the sun had set, and the moon was shining
+beautifully on the water, as we drew near to a small Cumbrie village on
+the borders of the river, where we landed and pitched our tent. The
+thermometer to-day has varied from 75° to 92°.
+
+_Tuesday, August 3d._—Arising at an early hour we shot a partridge and
+Guinea-fowl, and breakfasted in the open air, under the intense scrutiny
+of a hundred bright black eyes; then, striking our tent, we hastened to
+the canoes which we had left secured, and embarked on the river while it
+was yet morning, and the air cool and pleasant. Though the lowering
+appearance of the firmament seemed to betoken a violent storm, the black
+clouds dispersed as the sun gathered strength, and he burst out on us,
+an hour after our departure, with peculiar heat and splendour.
+
+On all the borders of the numerous branches of the river, as well as on
+its small islands, vast quantities of corn were growing; and it being
+near the time of harvest, it was nearly ripe, and waved over the water’s
+edge very prettily. Platforms were everywhere erected to the height of,
+or rather above the corn, which grows as high as ten or twelve feet.
+People were stationed on these to scare away the numerous flights of
+small birds, which do great mischief, and would, without this
+precaution, destroy the hopes of the cultivator. A boy or girl, and in
+many cases a woman with a child at her breast, and even a whole family
+together, we observed on the platforms, amusing themselves in this
+manner, without the slightest shade or covering of any kind to shelter
+them from the fierceness of the sunbeams. Standing erect and motionless,
+many of them looked like statues of black marble rather than living
+human beings; but others, particularly the women, disregarding their
+duty, were industriously employed in plaiting straw, supplying the wants
+of their children, manufacturing mats, dressing provisions, &c. In order
+the more effectually to frighten away the birds, several of the watchers
+were furnished with slings and stones, in the use of which they seem to
+be very skilful; besides these, pieces of rope were fastened from the
+platform to a tree at some distance, to which large calabashes were
+suspended, with holes in them, through which sticks were passed, so that
+when the rope is pulled they make a loud clattering noise. The
+calabashes are sometimes fastened whole to the rope, containing about a
+handful of stones, which answer the purpose of making a noise when put
+in motion, as well as the sticks. To this is often added the hallooing
+and screaming of the watchers, which is dismal enough to frighten an
+evil spirit, and it rarely fails to produce the desired effect.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The inhabitants of many of the numerous walled towns and open villages
+on the banks of the Niger, and also of the islands, we find are for the
+most part Cumbrie people—a poor, despised, and abused, but industrious
+and hard-working race. They are but too often oppressed and persecuted
+by their more fortunate and powerful neighbours, who affirm that they
+are fitted by nature only for slaves, and are therefore invariably
+treated by them as such.
+
+The Cumbrie also inhabit many parts of Hàussa and other countries; they
+speak different languages, but they have all the same pursuits,
+superstitions, amusements, and peculiar manners, to which they firmly
+and scrupulously adhere, both in good and bad fortune, in sickness and
+in health, in freedom and slavery, at home and in foreign countries,
+notwithstanding the scorn and derision to which it subjects them; and
+they are known to cherish and maintain them to the end of life, with as
+much pertinacity as the Hebrew does his faith and national customs.
+Inheriting from their ancestors a peaceful, timid, passionless,
+incurious disposition, they fall an easy prey to all who choose to
+molest them; they bow their necks to the yoke of slavery without a
+murmur, and think it a matter of course; and perhaps no people in the
+world are to be found who are less susceptible of intense feeling and
+the finer emotions of the human mind, on being stolen away from their
+favourite amusements and pursuits, and from the bosom of their wives and
+families, than these Cumbrie people, who are held in such general
+disesteem. Thousands of them reside in the kingdom of Yàoorie and its
+province of Engarski; and most of the slaves in the capital have been
+taken from among them.
+
+The tribute, or rather rent which they pay to the sultan for the land
+they cultivate, consists of a quantity of corn, about the size of a
+bundle as much as a man can carry, for every plot of land, whether it be
+large or small. When, however, the harvest fails, they are at liberty to
+give a certain number of cowries in lieu of the accustomed duty of corn.
+If the poor have no means of paying their rent when it becomes due, the
+sultan immediately despatches a body of horsemen to their villages, with
+a command to seize and carry away as many of the people as they may
+think proper. It sometimes happens, however, that the sultan of Yàoorie
+pulls the reins of oppression with too tight a hand; and as cowards,
+when driven to desperation, often give specimens of extraordinary
+courage and resolution, so the negligent and despised Cumbrie, writhing
+under the lash of injuries which they have never deserved, defend
+themselves with extraordinary determination and bravery, and not
+unfrequently come off victorious from the conflict. The benefit which
+results to them from these advantages is an exemption from the payment
+of rent for two or three subsequent years.
+
+During our residence in Yàoorie, an expedition, despatched by the sultan
+for the above purpose, returned unsuccessful from Engarski. The most
+unfavourable trait in the character of the Cumbrie is the extreme
+dirtiness they display in their habits generally, from which not one of
+them appears to be free. They are generally considered good
+agriculturists and expert fishermen: they grow abundance of corn and
+onions, but a great part of the former is disposed of to the natives of
+Boossà and Yàoorie, to whose monarchs they are subject. Most of them are
+rather slovenly about their persons, and make use of few ornaments, and
+even these are of the commonest description. They bore immense holes in
+the lobe of the ear for the admission of bits of fine coloured wood; and
+the soft part of the septum of the nose is perforated in like manner,
+through which is thrust a long piece of blue glass. When the females
+have a mind to appear with unusual smartness and effect, a crocodile’s
+tooth is inserted through both lips, and projects upwards as far as the
+nose. These useless, unbecoming, and singular ornaments impart to the
+countenance an unnatural and barbarous expression, which is very far
+from agreeable, and produces an unpleasant and painful emotion in the
+mind of the beholder. In _our_ intercourse with the Cumbrie, they
+appeared mild, innocent, and even amiable in their manners; and they
+behaved to us with all the civility, hospitality, and kindness of their
+natures, untinctured by insincerity or lukewarmness.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The annexed sketch is a representation of the sleeping huts of these
+people (Cumbrie), which we alluded to on our passage up the river. The
+doorway, which is the only opening they have, is closed by a mat which
+is suspended inside. They have no steps to enter by, but scramble into
+it as well they can. The common coozie hut is used by them for ordinary
+purposes, such as cooking, &c., during the day, but never at night.
+These sleeping huts are about seven or eight feet wide, they are nearly
+circular, are made of clay, and thatched with the palm leaf; they are
+elevated above the ground so as to secure the inmates from the annoyance
+of ants, snakes, and the wet ground, and even for protection from the
+alligators which prowl about at night in search of prey. We were
+informed of instances where these creatures have carried off the legs
+and arms of natives, who have incautiously exposed themselves to their
+attacks. The huts will hold about half-a-dozen people. Sometimes the
+pillars supporting the hut are walled round, but this is not often done,
+and they generally appear as in the sketch.
+
+The natives frequently kill the alligators by means of a heavy spear
+about ten feet long, like the sketch. One end is furnished with a heavy
+piece of iron-wood to give it force, and the other with a sharp-pointed
+barbed iron. It is attached to the bow of their canoe by a piece of
+grass rope, which is fastened to the upper end, and is a formidable
+weapon. A smaller spear of the same description is used by these people
+for killing fish, in which occupation they are very expert.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+As we proceeded down the Niger by a different channel from that by which
+we had ascended it to Yàoorie, we had fresh opportunities of remarking
+the more striking features on its banks. The river, as might naturally
+have been expected, is much swollen, and its current more impetuous than
+when we passed up on our voyage to Yàoorie; and many of the stones and
+rocks which then annoyed us, are now under water, and completely hidden.
+In the earlier part of the evening we landed at a small Cumbrie village,
+and our canoes were pulled upon a sandy beach for the night in security.
+The thermometer has been at 95° to-day.
+
+_Wednesday, August 4th._—The inhabitants of the village wherein we slept
+last night had nothing to offer us to eat either then or this morning;
+but we had the good fortune to shoot a partridge, and we had it dressed
+for breakfast. But it was, like many others, a most unsavoury repast,
+for we had nothing to eat with it, not even a little salt; the people of
+the village, as well as most of their countrymen, making use of a
+quantity of wood-ashes instead, which contain saline particles, because
+salt is too expensive an article for these simple villagers to purchase
+for their own consumption! We had everything conveyed to the canoes at
+an early hour, and at seven o’clock A.M. we were once more upon the
+Niger. The canoemen, as well as our own people, had forecast and
+contrivance enough to supply themselves with a few ears of Indian corn
+last night, which they thought themselves warranted to pluck from a
+field at no great distance from their sleeping quarters; yet all of them
+complained of hunger this morning, and left the village in a very ill
+humour. To satisfy their appetites, our canoes were pulled on shore
+repeatedly during the forenoon, for the men to steal some of the corn
+which overhung the margin of the river. They were, however, perceived by
+the more diligent of the watchers, but they did not take any measures to
+prevent them, because they saw that they were the sultan’s servants, and
+the whole of these have the privilege of stealing as much corn from the
+Cumbrie as they may have occasion for. One poor man had a canoe laden
+with new corn, which was pounced upon by these hungry plunderers, who
+compelled its reluctant owner to transfer it from his canoe into their
+own, without remunerating him in anywise for the loss he thus sustained.
+Another individual who happened to be in a canoe, was chased a
+considerable distance down the river, under the impression that he had
+likewise corn with him, the robbers endeavouring to palliate their
+conduct by saying, that as the man paid no tribute to the sultan, his
+effects were at all times liable to be seized. The man, however, exerted
+all his strength, and happily succeeded in making his escape.
+
+About noon we observed a herd of Falátah cows grazing on the banks of
+the river; and in the water a little way from them, we saw an immense
+crocodile floating on the surface like a long canoe, for which it was at
+first mistaken, and watching an opportunity to seize one of them and
+destroy it by dragging it into the river. As soon as he was perceived by
+the canoemen, they paddled as softly as possible towards him, intending
+to wait at a short distance till the crocodile should have accomplished
+his object, when they agreed to pull rapidly towards the shore and reap
+the fruits of the reptile’s amazing strength, by scaring him off from
+his prey, or destroying him with harpoons, for the skin of a crocodile
+is not considered impenetrable here. Their intentions, however, were
+frustrated by the sudden disappearance of the crocodile, which dived the
+moment he perceived the canoe so near him, making a loud plashing noise,
+and agitating the water in a remarkable manner in his descent. We waited
+in vain for him to rise again. A very short time after this the canoemen
+landed at _Warree_, which is the most celebrated market town in the
+dependency of Engarski, and consists of several clusters of huts
+encircled by a dwarf clay wall. The market is attended by many thousands
+of people from different parts of the country, besides Yàoorie, Boossà,
+and Wowow, yet nothing peculiar to Engarski is exposed for sale in it;
+and the cheapness at which the productions of the country are disposed
+of, is most likely the principal inducement for buyers to resort to
+Warree. Vast numbers of canoes, filled with people and goods, were
+passing from one side of the Niger to the other during our limited stay
+outside the town, and the countenances of both buyers and sellers
+betrayed a very anxious and business-like expression. As soon as our
+curiosity was fully satisfied, we also crossed over to the Boossà side
+of the river, and landed at a small walled town called _Garnicassa_,
+which is inhabited by the Cumbrie, and situated about five miles north
+of the city of Boossà. At no great distance from this place, and within
+sight of it, all the branches of the Niger meet and form a beautiful and
+magnificent body of water, at least seven or eight miles in width; and
+it is truly astonishing what becomes of it, for at Boossà the river is
+no more than a stone’s throw across, and its depth is in proportion to
+its narrowness. But about an hour’s walk from thence, it again becomes a
+noble river, and maintains its width, it is said, even to Funda. This
+singular fact favours the opinion, that a large portion of the waters of
+the Niger is conveyed by subterraneous passages from the town of
+Garnicassa, to a few miles below Boossà.
+
+Shortly after our arrival, when we were making some allusion to the
+river to one of the inhabitants, a Falátah hearing us came forward and
+made the extraordinary assertion, that instead of running to Funda, it
+took a turn to the eastward, and disembogued itself into the lake Tshad
+in Bornou. But theories respecting the Niger are even more various and
+contrary in this country, than the hypotheses of the learned of Europe
+on the subject. Scarcely two people are to be found that agree in the
+same opinion, and their suppositions are not confined to the course and
+termination, but include also the source of this mysterious river; yet,
+with all their talk, it is easy to perceive that the natives are all
+entirely ignorant of the matter.
+
+The earlier part of the evening, after our arrival at Garnicassa, was
+calm, serene, and delightful; and the silvery moon shone with unusual
+resplendence. It was a favourable time for the inhabitants of the town
+to enjoy themselves; and accordingly they were thus employed in good
+earnest. Singing, dancing, and music-playing, are the only
+divertisements with which the generality of the Cumbrie are acquainted;
+and though this people are even more despised than the slothful
+Hottentots of the southern part of the continent,—though their rights
+are unheeded and their liberties abused, yet these considerations do not
+seem to impress them with gloomy reflections; and they trifle away their
+leisure hours in play with as much zest and thoughtless jollity as
+though they were the most favoured people in the world.
+
+A sudden and confused noise of merriment awoke me from a pleasing kind
+of reverie in which I was indulging in the moonshine. I went out
+instantly to ascertain the cause of such obstreperous mirth, and
+discovered a number of young girls, and married women with children on
+their backs, dancing, singing, romping, and clapping their hands, after
+the manner of the country; and a group of their male relatives standing
+beside them as judges and spectators of their proceedings. A female
+would spring suddenly from amidst her companions, and after skipping and
+dancing with great animation till she became quite exhausted, would fall
+backwards into the arms of her associates, who, anxiously watching her
+movements, had put themselves into a suitable attitude to receive her.
+Another would then supply her place, and then another, till all the
+festive party had danced in turn; and this amusement was kept up with so
+much spirit, that screams of laughter and other violent tokens of
+delight continued as long as it lasted. The dance (if it deserve the
+name) commenced with the whole of the females, married and single. They
+first formed themselves into a circle, holding fast of each other’s
+arms, and then they moved round very slowly without lifting their feet
+from the ground. This exercise seemed to have occasioned them much
+exertion and difficulty, if we might be allowed to judge from the
+violent and peculiar manner in which they shook and twisted their
+bodies, as well as from the failure of several of the younger girls, who
+were obliged to quit the ring almost as soon as it was formed. This
+slowness of motion was gradually succeeded by a sprightlier movement,
+till they ran round so swiftly, that the circle was suddenly broken, and
+many of the women were thrown with violence to the ground. The singing,
+or rather screaming, and clapping of hands, together with other noises,
+more vociferous and wild than these, were continued till the approach of
+morning, when a heavy shower drove every one home. Nothing, perhaps, in
+this country is more capable of producing a wild, romantic, and pleasing
+effect than such a spectacle as this, and at such a time. In front of us
+lay the celebrated Niger, reflecting from its unruffled surface the
+splendid canopy over our heads, with the radiant clouds of departing
+day. On each side of the river Nature had scattered with a lavish hand
+the most lovely of her gifts; and verdant trees cast their tall shadows
+on the water. Almost close to the place where we stood, was a circle of
+naked savage women, all black as a coal, who were performing the oddest
+antics imaginable; and still nearer stood a wild-looking group of their
+male companions, resting on their tall spears and participating in the
+frolic with all their hearts. A three-cornered rush or straw hat, having
+a high peak, but without a brim, was the only article of dress worn by
+these men. Altogether, as we have already said, the scene was such as to
+fill the mind with the highest gratification and delight. To us it was
+irresistibly charming, and we contemplated it a long time with emotions
+of the most pleasing description.
+
+_Thursday, August 5th._—It rained incessantly till between eleven and
+twelve o’clock in the forenoon, when the sun made his appearance at
+intervals, and the weather became fine, which we promptly availed
+ourselves of, in pursuing our journey along the banks of the Niger to
+Boossà. The path was filled with water and broken up by the force of the
+rains. After an hour’s ride we drew near to the walls of the city, and
+soon arrived at the drummer’s house, which had been our former
+residence. Here we found the Midīki on her knees to receive and welcome
+us back again to Boossà in the name of the king. But we were not
+permitted to enter and take possession of our old apartments, for the
+queen conducted us to other huts, which form part of a cluster inhabited
+by Falátahs, and emigrants of both sexes from Yarriba and Nouffie, who
+are mostly slaves to the king. A quantity of milk and large calabashes
+of rice and fish, stewed in palm oil, were sent us a few minutes after
+our arrival; and in the evening we were visited by the monarch, who said
+he had been apprehensive that we required a little repose and quietness
+after our journey, and therefore he did not like to intrude on us
+before. He expressed the pleasure he felt on seeing us again, and
+welcomed us with the utmost cordiality. The Midīki, who had accompanied
+him to our house, paid us a similar compliment. It has been told us that
+the drummer’s wife had excited the envy of the queen by wearing round
+her neck a smart gilt button which we had given her; and that this is
+the only reason that we are not allowed to occupy our former lodgings in
+her house. Yet, to be even with her _fair_ rival, the queen had
+extracted from her little sheepskin box, wherein they had been confined
+for a quarter of a century, a small number of round and flat golden
+ornaments, with which she has adorned her sable bosom, and thereby
+totally eclipsed the transitory splendour of the button belonging to the
+drummer’s wife.
+
+On our arrival at Boossà the face and hands of both my brother and self
+were much swollen and highly inflamed by exposure to the sun, and this
+circumstance, simple as it was, excited the queen’s sympathy almost to
+tears.
+
+_Friday, Aug. 6th._—In a conversation with the king this morning, he
+intimated that it would be necessary for us to visit Wowow, previous to
+our going to Funda, because the prince of that state, he said, had
+already made war on Kiáma on our account, and captured a few of its
+people. The king had been induced, from the representations of the
+Midīki, who is sister to the chief of Wowow, to urge our taking this
+step; and as we dare not raise objections, we have promised to go
+thither in a day or two, although we are well aware that the little
+present we shall be necessitated to offer him will by no means answer
+his expectations. The king has himself repeated to us the promise which
+he made to our man, of furnishing us with a canoe sufficiently large to
+contain the whole of our people and ourselves, and whatever goods we may
+have left; and in order to bind him to his word, we have given him our
+tent and the horse which was lately his own; so that, deprived of these,
+we shall not have the means of travelling on land, and shall therefore
+of necessity be obliged to proceed by water. To the queen also, whose
+influence over the mind and actions of her husband is unbounded, we have
+made a present much greater than our means warranted, with which she is
+more than pleased. We have further endeavoured to win her favour by
+kindness, compliment, and flattery; and these means are the most
+powerful and effective in the world. The simple-hearted females of this
+country are quite unable to resist them. Thus far everything is
+favourable to our enterprise, yet doubts sometimes arise in our minds;
+and should a canoe be denied us after all that the monarch of this place
+has said, we are determined, when the time draws near for our departure,
+to take a canoe of our own accord, and steal away from Boossà by night.
+‘Falátahs,’ said the king to-day with much seriousness, ‘reside on each
+side of the river in considerable numbers, and I begin to fear that they
+will endanger your personal safety.’ ‘But,’ answers Paskoe, our
+interpreter, ‘Englishmen are gods of the waters, and no evil can befal
+them in boats, even though all Africa, or the whole world, should fight
+against them.’ ‘I will, however,’ said the king in reply, ‘go down and
+ask the _becken rouah_ (dark or black water, which the Niger is
+everywhere emphatically styled) whether it will be prudent and safe for
+the white men to embark on it or not, and I will be sure to acquaint you
+and them of my success, be it good or bad.’ To-morrow morning, we
+understand, he intends making this singular experiment; and we have only
+to hope that the Niger may return him a favourable answer to his
+question.
+
+To-day when we ascertained that it was the actual intention of the king
+to supply us with a canoe, we thought proper to present him, in the name
+of our sovereign, with one of those beautiful silver medals which were
+cast during the American war, for the purpose of distributing amongst
+those Indian chiefs who were favourable to the English interests. A
+large and valuable chain of the same metal was attached to it, and
+nothing which we had previously given the king seemed to have pleased
+him so much as this medal and chain; he regarded it indeed with childish
+admiration. We assured him that he might now consider himself as the
+king of England’s most particular friend, and that he could not offer a
+more grateful return, than by favouring and assisting us in our plan of
+journeying to the salt water, by way of the Niger.
+
+_Saturday, August 7th._—Just after we had arisen this morning, the king
+came to us with joy beaming in his countenance, and quickly informed us
+that, according to his promise, he had been down to the Niger, with his
+mallam or priest, and that the result of his visit was highly favourable
+to our wishes as well as his own—‘the river having promised to conduct
+us in safety to its termination.’ One of our greatest apprehensions are
+by this means removed. He likewise observed that the canoes of the chief
+of Wowow were much superior to his own, and he should therefore request
+him to sell us a large and good one, made of a single trunk, instead of
+one joined in the middle, which he said would not be either so strong or
+so safe. We thanked him, and expressed a desire to purchase such a one
+as he had recommended without delay, that we might have time to make
+whatever alterations we should deem necessary, and procure a mast,
+awning, sail, &c., before our departure.
+
+_Monday, August 9th._—The king told Paskoe this morning, that neither
+himself nor the Midīki had tasted animal food for the last three weeks,
+and that if we would make him a present of a guinea-fowl he would be
+greatly pleased, as he had been living upon fish till he was tired of
+it. This was jocosely spoken, and not intended for our ears, as the king
+subsequently informed us; but when he knew, by our compliance with his
+expressed wish, that Paskoe had made us acquainted with it, his delicacy
+was so much hurt that he was ashamed to visit us for a whole day after.
+
+The king is one of the tallest and finest men in the country, as well as
+one of the most active and industrious. He is oftentimes unwell, owing,
+according to his own account, to having, many years ago, swallowed a
+quantity of poison which had been administered to him as an excellent
+medicine, by one who sought his destruction. Other chiefs ‘and great
+men,’ not only in Borgoo, but in every place that we have visited,
+either doze and sleep away the greatest part of their lifetime, or spend
+it in the most childish and frivolous pursuits; whereas his majesty of
+Boossà, when he is not engaged in public affairs, usefully employs all
+his leisure hours in superintending the occupations of his household and
+making his own clothes. The Midīki and he have distinct establishments,
+divided fortunes, and separate interests; indeed, they appear to have
+nothing in common with each other, and yet we have never seen so
+friendly a couple since leaving our native country. The manners of the
+Africans, too, are hostile to the interest and advancement of woman, and
+she is very rarely indeed placed on an equality with her husband.
+Perhaps the prevalence of polygamy, which the religion of the people
+tolerates, whether Mahomedan or Pagan, is one of the chief causes of the
+disesteem in which females are generally held.
+
+The kings of Boossà, as we have before had occasion to observe, have the
+reputation of being the greatest monarchs, next to the sovereigns of
+Bornou, between that empire and the sea; and this enviable distinction
+is acknowledged by every rival chief. Yet it cannot be owing either to
+their power, their state, or their opulence, for of all the Borgoo
+rulers, they are perhaps the poorest and feeblest. The superior dignity
+of the kings of Boossà, and the honour and reverence which are
+universally paid them, have arisen, it is said, from the respectability
+of their origin, for they are believed to be descendants of the oldest
+family in Africa, which in ancient times, long before the introduction
+of the Mahomedan religion, was the great head of the fetísh: hence the
+profound respect which is yet shown them by the professors of the new
+faith, and those who still cling to the superstitions of the old, and
+the influence which they exercise as far as their name is known.
+
+_Tuesday, August 10th._—The Midīki sends us a bowl of bruised corn,
+boiled in water, which is called _tuah_, twice a-day for our people; and
+the king sends daily a little rice and dried fish, seasoned with pepper,
+salt, and palm-oil, for our own consumption. But we find this
+insufficient for our people, who are eight in number, and ourselves;
+their appetites are extremely keen. Guinea-fowl and partridges, which we
+used to shoot here in great quantities, and which formed the principal
+part of our food, are now procured with the greatest difficulty and
+fatigue, owing partly to the prevalence of heavy rains, which have
+rendered the ground soft and boggy, and partly to the surprising height
+and stiffness of the corn-stalks, between which these birds always
+shelter themselves. We are, therefore, often much perplexed about the
+means of procuring a meal. With buttons the market is already
+overstocked; they have lost all their powers to charm, because those we
+have heretofore sold were of inferior quality, and not new, so that they
+begin already to lose their polished lustre, and to look dull and black;
+needles are unsaleable; we have disposed of all our bits of coloured
+cloth, and common red stuff, tea canisters, powder canisters, and almost
+everything indeed that _would_ sell, reserving the very few articles of
+greater value which are left, for presents to the different chiefs along
+the banks of the Niger. Amongst other trifles disposed of were several
+tin-cases, which contained worthless and unpalatable portable soups, &c.
+These were labelled with slips of tin, which though rather dull and
+dirty, nevertheless attracted the admiration of many; and we have been
+highly diverted to see one man in particular walking at large, and
+strutting about with ‘Concentrated Gravy,’ stuck on his head in no less
+than four places. He appeared quite proud and vain of these ornaments,
+and was simpering with pleasure wherever he went.
+
+Our men bear fatigue and hunger extremely well, yet when they have food
+in abundance, they eat, or rather devour it voraciously. One of them who
+has the appetite of a horse, but who is himself unconscious of it,
+understanding that anything bitter would sharpen this propensity, and
+enable him to consume a greater quantity of provisions, has been in the
+constant habit of swallowing the contents of every bullock’s gall-
+bladder he could meet with! Six such stomachs as his we have daily to
+satisfy, if we can; and having also two women (Paskoe’s wives) in our
+train, we think it will be no easy matter, at a future period, to supply
+them even with the bare necessaries of life, more especially after our
+embarkation in the canoe.
+
+_Wednesday, August 11th._—By a previous intimation, we prepared
+ourselves early this morning to depart for Wowow; but because the road
+to that city was supposed to be bad, we were obliged to wait on
+horseback by the king’s house for a considerable time, in order that a
+person might be found to show us the most proper path. However, wearied
+with waiting, we left the city without him, and he overtook us about
+three or four hours after we had been on our journey. The account of the
+badness of the path we soon saw had not been exaggerated; it was filled
+with holes and pits, and overgrown with grass, so tall, that it reached
+far above our heads, and sprinkled a shower of water on our persons.
+Thorny shrubs tore our clothes and lacerated our flesh, and the branches
+of decayed trees, which had fallen across the pathway, made it
+everything but impassable; while small rivers, rushing along with the
+impetuosity of a torrent, and their rugged and almost perpendicular
+sides, conduced to render travelling dangerous and even dreadful. In
+crossing a large and not very rapid stream, my horse fell with me, but
+my brother’s refused to carry him over, and he was obliged to wade
+through the water, which reached above his arm-pits. The bed of the
+stream was filled with rocks, against which he struck himself several
+times, and was thrown down more than once, but without doing him any
+injury.
+
+A few miles from Boossà we crossed in a canoe a branch of the Niger
+forming a pretty little river, and running nearly west, and which is
+said to encompass the whole of Wowow, and to fall into the parent stream
+below that state. This is the river which Captain Clapperton was
+informed encircled the city and part of the kingdom of Boossà, whereas
+it takes quite an opposite direction; and where that officer supposed it
+returned to the Niger, it actually takes its rise. It was likewise told
+us, that this same river joins the _Oly_; and if this be the case, the
+principalities of Kiàma and Wowow must form an island of themselves.
+Between one and two o’clock in the afternoon, when the most difficult
+part of the journey had been accomplished, we halted at a farm belonging
+to the king of Boossà, for we were all excessively fatigued. Here we
+were regaled with parched corn and water, and refreshed ourselves
+further with an hour’s rest; and we again set forward with renewed
+spirits and additional cheerfulness, and about sunset entered a pleasant
+little village, encompassed with flourishing plantations of corn and
+yams, which was situated near Mount George the Fourth. We slept here,
+and before we retired to rest we made an unsuccessful attempt to procure
+provisions for our famishing attendants, yet they had wisdom enough not
+to forget themselves, for they had recourse to their old expedient of
+pilfering Indian corn in the night time; and though a watch was kept by
+the inhabitants, who suspected their intentions, yet they escaped
+detection. Fires were made in our hut, which was very large, with
+branches of trees and a large trunk, and around these sat our men
+dressing and eating their ill-gotten food till morning. In the course of
+the day’s journey we observed traces of lions and elephants. The latter
+animals infest the woods between Boossà and Wowow in incredible numbers,
+and by the impressions of their feet on the pathway, their size must be
+prodigious.
+
+_Thursday, August 12th._—As soon as it was day, we were again on
+horseback, and after a very pleasant ride over an excellent footway of
+somewhat less than twelve miles, we entered the city of Wowow through
+the western entrance. Here we found ourselves on the race-course, and by
+desire we galloped swiftly towards the king’s residence, and fired off a
+couple of pistols as a signal of our arrival. He presently came out to
+see us; but as the messenger from Boossà was not at hand, and as it is
+the custom never to enter into any kind of conversation without him, the
+old chief awaited his coming with much patience for more than half an
+hour, nor could we approach him during that time. Indeed no foreigner is
+permitted to do so, whatever may be his rank, unless in presence of the
+representative of the chief from whom he last came. A number of well-
+dressed mallams walked before the king on his coming out, and a man
+bearing on his shoulder a heavy sword came after them; and last of all
+followed a long train of his wives and children, who squatted themselves
+on the ground and filled up the door-way. In the wall on each side of
+the entrance of the town is a large niche, in one of which the king
+stood fixed and motionless, with his hands clasped under his tobe, and
+supported on his bosom; and round a pole which had been placed erect in
+the other niche, a naked youth had entwined his legs, remaining in
+breathless anxiety to be a spectator of the approaching interview. No
+two human beings ever bore a more striking resemblance to statues than
+these; the deception was indeed complete. For ourselves, we had sent our
+horses to graze, and sat about a dozen paces from the door-way under a
+large tree; the mallams were sprawling on the earth between the king and
+us; and at a respectful distance on each side, groups of the inhabitants
+had assembled to gratify their curiosity.
+
+While the king remained in the above position without moving a single
+muscle, and which lasted till our messenger had made his appearance, a
+singing-woman drew near the person of her sovereign, and began to
+exercise her vocation in a tone of voice that displayed anything but
+sweetness or melody, and so loud and shrill as to frighten away the
+birds from the trees near the spot. After this salutation she fell on
+her knees, and repeatedly threw handfuls of earth over her left shoulder
+down her back, &c. The Boossà messenger who had been so anxiously
+expected, at length arrived, and the spell which had bound every one to
+the spot was dissolved in a moment. We were then conducted to the king,
+and formally introduced to him; but the grave, eccentric old man shook
+hands with us without taking them from the tobe in which they had been
+enveloped, or even condescending to look in our faces, for he never
+makes it a practice to raise his head above a certain height; fearing he
+should discover the person to whom he may be conversing gazing full in
+his countenance, to which he has a very strange but unconquerable
+antipathy. The interview lasted but a moment, and we were hastily
+conducted to the house which was occupied by the late Captain
+Clapperton; and here we were soon visited by a number of the principal
+people of the city. In the course of the morning we received a quantity
+of eggs, milk, yams, and a fat sheep, as a present from the king.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XI.
+
+Horse-racing at Wowow on the Mahometan Sabbath — Indignation of the King
+of Wowow against the King of Kiáma — Religious Procession of Females —
+Policy of the King of Wowow — Richard Lander taken ill — leaves his
+brother at Wowow, and returns to Boossà — Narrative of John Lander — The
+Blessing of the Priestess — Religious Sects — Their Creeds and Ideas of
+a Future State — Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies — Park’s Books — the
+States of Borgoo — The last of Park’s effects — Farewell to the King of
+Wowow — Departure — Village — Apprehensions of the Natives — the
+Travellers meet at Boossà.
+
+
+_Friday, August 13th._—To-day is the Mahomedan Sabbath, which is
+constantly kept as a holiday by the inhabitants for public recreations
+and festivities. The king’s musicians were engaged in playing a very few
+simple airs during the whole of the morning. For native music it was
+certainly excellent; elsewhere we have heard nothing equal to it, not
+even at Katunga, Kiàma, or Yàoorie. Boossà seems to have little music,
+and few amusements of any kind—no city is so dull and lifeless as that.
+In the evening, the weekly horse-racing commenced by a run of eight or
+ten ponies, as handsome as they were swift, and the competition between
+them was most spirited. It was not till after this contest had been
+concluded, that the king made his appearance at the lower end of the
+race-course; and from thence he rode slowly towards the starting-place,
+preceded by singing and dancing women, who bawled and capered before
+him. When he came up to it he was saluted with a report from a few guns
+and pistols. The king was more appropriately attired, or rather his
+clothes seemed to sit more easily and gracefully on his person, than
+those of any other prince we have seen. His horse was gaily, if not
+richly caparisoned; it was a noble beast, and both horse and rider
+looked extremely well. As he passed us he neither turned his head aside
+nor even honoured us with a single glance, from a desire to make an
+impression on our minds by pomp and show, perhaps he thought it would
+have been degrading to have given us a familiar look.
+
+The weather was not so favourable as could have been wished; and to this
+circumstance was owing the few horses, comparatively speaking, which had
+been brought to the sport. The horses were rode chiefly by little boys,
+one of whom was the king’s son: when they galloped past their sovereign,
+they invariably doffed their caps as a mark of respect. This race was by
+no means so well contested as the former, and indeed was unworthy of the
+name; and as soon as it was over, the king returned to his residence,
+and his example was presently followed by the prince and the other part
+of his household. But all these were obliged to return by a different
+path, because it is against the rules of etiquette for any one of the
+natives to attend the footsteps of his sovereign on the celebration of
+any public amusement. After their departure the music ceased, and
+terminated the entertainments of the day.
+
+The king’s head drummer, a little Nouffie man, came to see us this
+afternoon; he informed us that he was one of the followers of prince
+Ederesa, and had fled hither, with a host of fellow-fugitives, from the
+resentment of the successful Magīa and his allies, the Falàtahs. The
+other day, his emigrant companions divided themselves into two unequal
+parties: the weaker left Wowow to join the standard of the Magīa, and
+the stronger that of his brother Ederesa; the drummer however had
+preferred to remain behind and serve the king in his present capacity.
+He stated, in answer to our inquiries, that the _Tshadda_ (Shary) flows
+into the Niger at Funda, and a regular intercourse is kept up with the
+natives on its banks, for the purposes of trade, by means of very large
+canoes. The sheikh, he said, resided very near the _Tshadda_, which, in
+Bornou, spreads into a large body of water. He further informed us, that
+canoes, capable of containing five hundred men in each, and having
+‘thatched houses’ in them, are taken to _Binnie_ (Benin), with great
+quantities of cotton cloths, &c., by his countrymen, who sell them to
+the natives; and that Funda is very near the salt water; yet the drummer
+appears to know nothing of _any_ river which runs to Bornou.
+
+This morning, I carried the few things, which we had brought from Boossà
+for that purpose, to the king. The monarch appeared well pleased and
+cheerful, and expressed himself perfectly satisfied with the present,
+though in a few minutes afterwards he despatched a messenger to inquire
+if we had not brought any coral beads with us from England. The articles
+forming the present consisted of two pair of silver bracelets, a piece
+of coarse muslin, sufficient for a couple of turbans, a tobacco-pipe,
+two razors, a new gilt button, two small and inferior looking-glasses, a
+clasp knife, a pair of scissors, and two combs. In compliance with my
+request, the king informed me, that he would sell us a canoe with the
+greatest pleasure. He was convinced, he said, that we should return in
+safety to our country by way of the Niger, which did not contain a
+single rock from _Inguâzhilligee_ to Funda. He had heard of the refusal
+of the prince of Kiàma to send us by the road of Wowow to his friend the
+king of Boossà, and his recommending us a path through a dreary
+wilderness, which had caused the destruction of all our horses, and in
+which we ourselves had narrowly escaped with life. He had felt for us in
+that situation, and his heart had been touched with grief at the recital
+of our misfortunes. After the rains should be over, he was determined to
+resent the affront which had been thus offered him by the ruler of
+Kiàma, and make him repent his cruelty. It had been his intention, he
+continued, to despatch a body of soldiers for the purpose of escorting
+us to his city in a handsome and becoming manner, but he had been
+deterred from his purpose by the information which he had received of
+our having plenty of guns and ammunition with us, which he feared we
+might have employed against the escort, under the mistaken opinion of
+its being a band of robbers. He rejoiced, however, to see us, because it
+would convince his neighbours that the white men neither disliked nor
+despised him. ‘I am now infinitely happy,’ he concluded, ‘for surely I
+could not have left the world in peace if you had departed from the
+country without having visited the old king of Wowow.’ When this long
+explanation was concluded, I was permitted to take my leave. Guns were
+subsequently fired off in compliment of our arrival; and the king and
+his wives, elated with joy, passed the day in dancing, laughing, and
+singing.
+
+In the evening, several of their daughters favoured us with a visit; and
+after their departure the monarch’s brother and his friend came to pay
+us the compliments of the day, and salute us in the country fashion. The
+_avoikin sullikee_ (king’s friend) is a very important and influential
+personage in Borgoo and other countries, and in point of rank is
+considered the second man in the empire. He transacts all the public
+business for the king when the latter is incapable of attending to it,
+from indisposition or any other accidental cause.
+
+_Saturday, August 14th._—Yesterday morning a messenger was despatched in
+haste to Inguâzhilligee, which is a town and ferry on the banks of the
+Niger, where the king’s boats are kept, to ascertain if a large canoe
+can be appropriated to our use, without interfering with or interrupting
+the business of the ferry. He returned at a late hour last night, so
+that we had no opportunity of speaking to him; but this morning he
+informed us, that we shall be able to have the best and most commodious
+canoe in the place, because a new canoe had very recently been made for
+the ferry, on account of the old one, which has since been recovered,
+having drifted down the river. Another individual was sent by the king
+this morning to settle the business about the purchase-money, but he is
+not expected to return from Inguâzhilligee till to-morrow.
+
+This day a long and gay procession, formed by the female followers of
+the ancient religion of the country, passed through the town, walking
+and dancing alternately, with large spreading branches of trees in their
+hands. The priestess, at the time we saw her, had just swallowed fetīsh-
+water, and was carried on the shoulders of one of the devotees, who was
+assisted by two female companions, supporting the trembling hands and
+arms of their mistress. Her body was convulsed all over, and her
+features shockingly distorted, whilst she stared wildly and vacantly on
+the troop of enthusiasts and other objects which surrounded her. The
+priestess was then believed to be possessed with a demon; indeed, to us
+they all appeared to be so, for not one of them seemed in their sober
+senses, so indescribably fantastic were their actions, and so unseemly
+did they deport themselves. A younger woman was likewise borne on the
+shoulders of a friend, and carried along in the same manner as her
+mistress but she was by no means so uncouth a figure, nor was her
+agitation so great as that of the priestess, by whom she was preceded.
+The whole of the women forming this strange procession might amount to
+between ninety and a hundred; they were clad in their ‘holiday best:’
+their motions were regulated at times by the sound of drums and fifes,
+and to this music they joined their wild shrill voices. They were
+arranged in couples, and with the branches of trees shaking in the air,
+presented one of the most extraordinary and grotesque spectacles that
+the human mind can conceive.
+
+The king of Wowow is making new roads and repairing and widening the old
+ones leading to and from the city. This is the only instance we have yet
+seen wherein even the slightest attention has been paid by a chief to
+the state of the public pathway, during the whole of the journey from
+Badàgry to Yàoorie; and the reason urged by the ruler of this place for
+undertaking the business is somewhat singular, though shrewd and just.
+‘If,’ says he, ‘an enemy were to come towards my gates with a hostile
+intention, and find the roads broken up or overgrown with weeds, would
+they not say among themselves, “Oh, this king of Wowow is a careless,
+slothful, cowardly governor; his town contains but few inhabitants, for
+see, the path is green and untrodden by human feet; let us go and attack
+it, for it will easily fall into our hands?” But,’ he continued, ‘should
+they find it of convenient width, smooth, and free from grass, they
+would immediately say,—“This road is trodden by the feet of many people;
+the town must be populous, strong, and flourishing, and its monarch
+watchful and brave; if we venture to make an assault, we foresee that we
+shall be overpowered and slain; it is better for us all to turn back
+while we are yet undiscovered and unharmed, lest some evil fall upon us
+when it is too late to retreat.”’
+
+Thus the talkative old king argues with his people, that they may throw
+off that laziness which is natural to them, and be animated to industry
+and labour in the common cause.
+
+A greater quantity of yams is cultivated in the vicinity of Wowow than
+is grown in all the other principalities of Borgoo put together. It is a
+common question on the path when the natives meet a stranger, ‘What! are
+you going to Wowow to eat yams?’ And the King of Boossà jocosely
+observed to us in parting, ‘That after we had tasted of the yams of his
+relative, he was apprehensive we should be inclined to remain a longer
+period in Wowow than he had proposed, for that they were a powerful
+inducement.’
+
+Rice and corn are also cultivated to an unlimited extent here, and two
+species of beans, so that the necessaries of life are very plentiful and
+cheap. Reaping has commenced, and the wet season, it is said, is nearly
+over. As in most other places, indigo and cotton are yearly produced at
+Wowow in abundance.
+
+_Sunday, August 15th._—Yesterday, and this morning, I was seized with
+giddiness of the head and other symptoms, which are the usual precursors
+of fever in this country. We had left our medicine-chest behind at
+Boossà, and as I was apprehensive that I should be laid up in this city,
+if I remained in it longer, my brother agreed with me in opinion that it
+would be advisable for me to return without delay to Boossà, and leave
+him here to settle the business respecting the canoe, &c. I therefore
+got on horseback as soon as the vertigo had passed away, and without
+stopping to bid adieu to the king, immediately departed on my journey
+with two attendants. My brother furnished me afterwards with the
+following account of the events which fell under his own observation,
+during the time we were absent from each other.
+
+
+‘A very few minutes after my brother had departed from Wowow, the prince
+sent me a young bullock and a number of yams; and his brother likewise
+presented me with a quantity of milk, rice, and a fatted goat.
+
+‘About mid-day the female worshippers of the ancient gods, who have
+already been alluded to, performed a second mystical ceremony, which is
+enjoined by their religion, and afterwards paraded the streets in the
+same order as on the former occasion. When it was over and the
+procession had dispersed, without intimating their intention, several of
+them paid me a visit, attended by musicians with drums, flutes, and
+guitars, and a great number of little boys and girls. I was sitting in a
+shed outside our hut at the time, with a sheet spread before me to keep
+off the eyes of the curious; and when it was pulled up by the priestess
+herself, who was fantastically dressed in man’s apparel, and when, with
+her large rolling eyes, and phrenzied countenance and manner, she
+performed her antics before me, uttering at the same time a piercing
+yell, more dismal than a dog’s at midnight, I started and shuddered a
+moment, for I was quite unprepared to witness such an object. But the
+poor enthusiast had no evil intention, for she fell down on her knees,
+gazed at me with tears in her eyes, and with a look of tenderness, held
+out her hand as a token of friendship, blessed me, and then arose and
+went out to make room for her principal attendants, who shrieked like
+her, and offered their hand in the same manner. Our Boossà messenger,
+and other individuals, who had come in before this most singular method
+of salutation was ended, subsequently received the benediction of the
+devotees, which was bestowed on them by the elder of the females. The
+method of doing it was novel and peculiar: in the first place the man
+was placed in a stooping position, the female then twisted his left arm,
+and pulled it over the back with all her might; it was then let go, to
+the great relief of the man; and she placed both her hands on his
+shoulders, which she pressed down with great energy, muttering between
+her teeth during the time the blessing which he had sought; but this was
+so inaudible that it could not be understood. It was not the woman, said
+the bystanders, but a spirit within her that spoke, and that influenced
+her and her companions in all their actions. So the people went away
+confirmed in this belief, and quite happy.
+
+‘The religion which these enthusiasts profess, and which was not long
+since the prevailing religion of the country, is still held in great
+reverence here; so much so indeed, that the king’s daughters were early
+initiated into its mysteries, and invariably attend the celebration of
+all its superstitious rites and ordinances; in fact the priestess
+herself is one of them. Their parent also is still favourable towards
+the religion of his fathers, which is blended with Arab fables and
+traditions (for the Mahomedan creed in its purity is unknown here), and
+these form the foundation and superstructure of his faith.
+
+‘The priestess and her followers believe in the existence of a God, and
+a heaven wherein he resides; that this glorious and almighty Being
+superintends the destinies of man in this life, and in a future one
+rewards or punishes him according to his deserts. Yet of a hell or a
+place of eternal torment they have no idea whatever. The souls of good
+men, say they, are translated into a tranquil, happy, and beautiful
+region, wherein but one monkey is permitted to reside, and where they
+remain for ever; whereas the wicked, before they can be allowed to
+participate in so much felicity and enjoyment, are forced to endure
+sorrow, pain, and punishment:—a variety of tortures is in store for
+them, such as scourging and beating, till it is considered sufficient
+punishment has been inflicted for their misdeeds, when they are exalted
+to a happier state of being.
+
+‘Others, who waver between the Mahomedan religion and the ancient faith,
+believe that at the end of the world a voice will sound from heaven to
+invite all black men to the world of bliss, but that these will be too
+much unconcerned and too lazy to embrace the offer—a second voice will
+then proclaim the same invitation to white men, who will spring up with
+alacrity and transport, and enter the celestial regions before them with
+books in their hands. They profess to believe also that two men were
+originally created, one black and the other white, from whom the whole
+world is descended.
+
+‘The professors of the ancient superstition sacrifice a bullock, a
+sheep, or a black goat to their divinities, but they shudder at the very
+idea of a human offering. Instead of agreeing with us that the world
+will be destroyed by fire, they suppose that its Divine Maker will roll
+it up like a parchment scroll, and put it aside for a future occasion.
+
+‘It is somewhat remarkable that in Hàussa the people have a tradition
+that the name of our great forefather was _Adam_ (pronounced exactly in
+the same manner as we pronounce the word). _Da Adam_, in the same
+language, signifies an object when observed indistinctly at a distance,
+bearing the least resemblance to a man. The mother of the human race is
+called _Ameenatoo_, in Hàussa.
+
+‘_Monday, August 16th._—The more respectable classes of society in Wowow
+and Boossà, after their decease, are buried in the yard of the house in
+which they resided when alive; whilst the people in the common walks of
+life are interred in a spot of ground selected for the purpose in a
+thick wood, which is at some distance from the city, and answering to
+our own places of burial. The friends of the former, as soon as they are
+made acquainted with his dissolution, resort to his house, and make
+lamentation for him for the space of seven days, wearing during that
+period their very worst apparel. But the relatives of a poor man attend
+his remains to the burying ground, and abide in the wood till their
+grief is assuaged and the time of mourning expired.
+
+‘Marriage among free people is exceedingly simple, and is attended with
+little mirth or festive recreation of any kind. The intended husband is
+allowed to have nothing to do in the affair, though it concerns him so
+nearly, and the parents of the girl are equally out of the question.
+When the parties become attached to each other, the female goes
+immediately to acquaint her _grandmother_ of the circumstance, and
+coaxes the old woman to give her consent for her to live henceforward
+with her suitor, for she alone has the power of giving the maiden away.
+If it happens, however, that she has no grandmother, the girl is at
+liberty to act as she pleases. Several days are always allowed for the
+old woman to reflect and ponder over the whole matter in her mind; and
+this interval is generally embraced by the man in making her trifling
+presents, and doing her other little acts of kindness, in the hope of
+gaining her over to his interests. When a free man forms an affection
+for a female who is a slave, and he has money sufficient for the
+purpose, he goes to her master, whoever he may be, unbosoms his mind to
+him, and informs him of his intention of taking the woman to wife, if he
+will give him permission. Should the owner of the girl approve of the
+connexion, the suitor pays him twenty thousand cowries for his consent
+to the match, though a smaller sum is oftentimes offered and accepted;
+and the object of his affections from that time becomes his spouse. Yet
+the children which she may bear him cannot be retained by the father,
+but are considered the exclusive property of the wife’s master, who lays
+claim to them and takes them away as soon as they are able to run about.
+Nor does the marriage ceremony break the bonds of the woman’s slavery,
+for she is liable to be called upon whenever the master thinks proper,
+when she is obliged to serve him in the same manner as if she had
+remained in a single state. The union of slaves amongst each other
+depends entirely upon the will and pleasure of their owners.
+
+‘A man is at liberty to return his wife to her parents at any time, and
+without adducing any reason for his dislike and dissatisfaction. When
+this is his intention, he treats his spouse with disrespect and
+unkindness, which she soon understands the meaning of, and of her own
+accord she goes back to her friends, and tells them of what has
+occurred. These subsequently repair in a body to the husband’s house,
+and question him in a formal manner whether it is his desire that his
+wife should continue to abide with them. If so, the connexion is
+forthwith dissolved, and she is again considered in the light of an
+unmarried woman. The children (if any) the mother is by no means
+permitted to take along with her, but they are left behind with their
+father, who delivers them over to the care of his other women.
+
+‘The king of Wowow daily inquires after my health, and sends me a
+quantity of yams, milk, and eggs, every morning. Although this old chief
+has received a present infinitely smaller than we have given any other
+ruler, yet his treatment of us has been more generous than that of all
+of them together. His brother, also, and one or two other respectable
+individuals, have been equally kind, and have endeavoured all in their
+power to render our stay among them perfectly agreeable. They expect
+nothing in return for their hospitality, for we have nothing but a few
+needles to offer them, and we have told them so again and
+again—nevertheless their attention and kindness do not diminish.
+
+‘_Tuesday, August 17th._—I was taken extremely unwell this morning with
+an indescribable and very unpleasant sensation in the head, which made
+me so lifeless and stupid that I could scarcely keep my eyes open for
+the remainder of the day, and obliged me to lie on my mat till evening,
+where I dozed away the hours more uncomfortably than I can describe. It
+is very remarkable that hitherto in the evening preceding the day on
+which we have been taken ill we have ever been surprisingly brisk and
+lively, with an unnatural flow of spirits; and we are so well aware of
+this that we always anticipate what is sure to follow, when we find
+ourselves in this merry mood, namely, an attack of illness on the
+ensuing morning.
+
+‘The messenger sent by the king to procure us a canoe is not yet
+returned from Inguâzhilligee; another was despatched after him
+yesterday, and this morning a third, it is said, has left the town on
+the same errand; so at least people have informed us. The object of the
+first of these men is not confined to his visiting the ferry; but if he
+could not meet with a canoe to his satisfaction there, he has been
+desired to proceed further down the Quorra until he should see one that
+would answer our purpose. He is also to examine and report the
+appearance of a _reef of rocks like that at Boossà, which runs across
+the river below Inguâzhilligee_[2], and collect monies and duties owing
+to his master. It is therefore not much to be wondered at that he is not
+yet returned to Wowow. In the evening one of our men arrived from my
+brother at Boossà; he informed me by letter of his convalescence, and of
+his intention of returning to this city yesterday, which however had
+been frustrated by desire of the king. The letter stated further that
+the Midīki would settle with her brother, the prince of Wowow, for the
+canoe which he has promised to sell us; and therefore that I was at
+liberty to take my leave of him whenever I might think proper. Also in
+the evening I received an intimation from the king to remain in the city
+till his messenger, who is hourly expected, shall have returned from the
+banks of the Niger. Indeed it is more than unlikely, if my present
+indisposition continue, that I shall be able to undergo the fatigues of
+a journey to Boossà, for a day or two at least; so that this restraint
+of the King I shall scarcely feel.
+
+‘_Wednesday, August 18th._—My curiosity has again been highly and
+perhaps painfully excited by hearing to-day that a certain man in the
+town was known to have had in his possession several books which he had
+picked up from the Niger at the period of Mr. Park’s dissolution. As
+soon as I had learnt this I instantly sent to the man’s house to
+ascertain the truth or falsehood of the rumour, but he happened to be
+from home, and it was not till night, after his return from the bush,
+that I heard with disappointment and sorrow that the report was indeed
+well founded, but that the books had all been recently destroyed. The
+man said he had shown them to the Arabs who were in the habit of
+visiting the town, but they could not understand the language in which
+they were written, and merely conjectured that their contents related to
+money matters, and were therefore of no kind of use whatever to any one.
+Yet notwithstanding their uselessness the man is reported to have kept
+the books carefully concealed in his house till the arrival of Captain
+Clapperton at Wowow, but when he found that this officer made no
+inquiries for such books, he neglected to pay any further attention to
+them, and they were destroyed shortly after; or, to use his own words,
+they “dropped or fell to pieces.” By the description which has been
+given of one of the books alluded to, I am inclined to believe that it
+must have been either Mr. Park’s journal, or a book of manuscripts of
+some sort. Thus have all our inquiries for the recovery of the lost
+papers of this traveller ended in disappointment: even when we had made
+almost sure of them, and our feelings excited to their highest pitch on
+more than one occasion, we have felt all the bitterness of hope suddenly
+extinguished.
+
+‘A number of visiters has called to see me to-day; but owing to my
+indisposition I have been unable to remain in a sitting posture longer
+than a very few minutes at a time, and therefore these visits have been
+agreeably short.
+
+‘_Thursday, August 19th._—I have learned with some surprise to-day, that
+Boossà and Wowow are not considered as being in the empire of Borgoo,
+but that they actually form a separate and distinct country, where a
+different language is spoken, and different manners prevail. The
+principality of Kiàma, however, is included by the natives in the former
+country, but owing to the long-continued and unceasing intercourse which
+has been maintained between it and Boossà, &c., the original Borgoo
+language has given place to the Boossà and Wowow tongue; and the customs
+and amusements of the people likewise bear at this time so great a
+similarity to those of their neighbours, as not to be distinguished from
+them. Yet a stranger can scarcely fail to remark a surprising difference
+between the demeanour of the more respectable inhabitants of Kiàma, and
+the behaviour of the same class of people at Boossà and Wowow. The
+former are bold, haughty, fierce, and rapacious, the latter are mild,
+humble, and sedate;—the former are held in no better light by merchants
+and traders, than a band of robbers,—whereas the latter are respected
+everywhere, and held in high reputation for honesty, integrity, and
+honour. Kiàma, it is said, formerly paid a tax to the king of Niki, but
+now it has sworn allegiance to the Falátahs.
+
+‘The following is a statement of the names of the different states,
+which form the extensive country called Borgoo. The monarch of Niki, as
+a title of distinction and eminence, is styled “King or Sultan of
+Borgoo,” viz.:—
+
+ 1. Niki
+
+ 2. Buoy
+
+ 3. Kiáma
+
+ 4. Sandero
+
+ 5. Kingka
+
+ 6. Korokoo
+
+ 7. Loogoo
+
+ 8. Pundi
+
+‘These follow in the order of the importance in which they are held by
+the people. Niki pays a small tribute to the king of Boossà as an
+acknowledgment of his superiority; Wowow does the same, “because,” said
+an intelligent man of that city, “in the beginning of the world the
+Almighty appointed his ancestor monarch of the whole of western Africa.”
+The present king of Boossà is, notwithstanding, too feeble to enforce
+payment of this tribute: it was originally offered voluntarily, and it
+has been continued by courtesy to the present time, though Niki and
+Wowow begin to be indifferent about the matter.
+
+‘The relative position of the five first states of Borgoo with respect
+to each other, may be thus expressed: the letters N, W, S, E, indicating
+the positions of the four cardinal points of the compass.
+
+ Buoy.
+ N.
+ Kingka W.—Niki—E. Kiama.
+ S.
+ Sandero.
+
+‘_Niki_ is seven days’ journey nearly west of Wowow, and the four states
+surrounding it as above, are each three days’ journey from it in the
+direction in which they are placed.
+
+‘_Korokoo_ is sixteen days’ journey west of Wowow.
+
+‘_Loogoo_ twenty days’ journey south-west of Wowow.
+
+‘_Pundi_ twenty days’ west of Wowow.
+
+‘It is, however, hardly possible for a native of Wowow to give the exact
+situation of a country remote from his own, when it is considered that
+he has neither a compass, nor indeed any instrument whatever to assist
+him in his observations, the sun alone being his guide in such cases. It
+is therefore likely enough that the individuals who furnished me with
+the preceding information might have erred, perhaps, as much as two or
+three points of the compass; and consequently, it would be better,
+instead of east, west, north, &c., to read _easterly, westerly,
+northerly_, &c.
+
+‘Niki is the largest and most powerful of the Borgoo states. Its
+capital, which is extremely populous, is of the same name, and though
+unwalled, it is of immense extent, and said to be of equal size to the
+city of Yàoorie. Its monarch has a thousand horses, which are all his
+private property, and he is, in other respects, wealthy and affluent.
+His soldiers, who form a good part of the population of the capital, are
+reputed to be brave, bold, and enterprising men; those on foot have one
+side of the head shaved to distinguish them from their fellow-subjects.
+These are like the “half-heads” of the king of Dahomey. Niki is almost
+the only country in the west, against which the Falátahs have not yet
+dared “to lift the spear.”
+
+‘There is reported to be not less than _seventy_ considerable and
+important towns dependent on the state of Niki, all of which have
+several smaller towns and villages under their control and management.
+The chiefs of each of these large towns present to their sovereign, once
+in their lifetime, a young and pretty woman to be his wife, by which
+means his seraglio is always kept full. Yet, if the girl fail to win the
+affections of the king, and she be not liked, or if, after she becomes
+his mistress, any fault is found with her, or any personal blemish or
+defect, she is instantly dismissed, and the chief of the town from whom
+she had been received, is obliged to supply her place by sending another
+girl. This is an odd and singular kind of tribute, but it is slight, and
+the inhabitants of the “seventy” pay no other. The next state in rank,
+extent, and importance to Niki, and the great rival to that country, is
+_Buoy_, which, like the former, has seventy towns of much consequence,
+that acknowledge its supremacy, and pay a tax of ladies to the monarch
+in something the same manner as their neighbours of Niki. There is great
+plenty of horses in the state of _Buoy_, and in _Sandero_; but the
+states of _Kingha_, _Loogoo_, and _Korokoo_, are destitute of a single
+animal of this description. With the exception of Loogoo, these latter
+states are said to be excessively poor, and their inhabitants to live in
+a pitiable state of penury and wretchedness; but the people of Loogoo
+have the necessaries of life in greater abundance, and they are enriched
+by the thousands of merchants who trade to Gonja for the goora nut, &c.,
+and who pass annually through their country. Their chief, or king, is
+the most opulent ruler in the whole of Borgoo, having obtained by this
+means more money than the monarch of Niki or Buoy ever had in his
+possession. _Pundi_ was at one time a dependency of Niki, but the
+natives have recently thrown off the yoke, and formed themselves into an
+independent power; but with the acquisition of their liberty they soon
+lost the little sense of right and wrong which they once had, and having
+no leader for whom they cared, and no law which they obeyed, they threw
+off all manner of restraint, and from robbing each other, they turned to
+plundering the property of their neighbours, and waylaying every
+unprotected stranger or traveller that had occasion to pass through
+their country. The same unruly, outrageous, and turbulent spirit, and
+desperate conduct prevail among the natives of Pundi to the present
+time; and similar acts of rapacity and violence are consummated by them
+every day, so that their country is dreaded and shunned by every one
+acquainted with their character and habits. Even among their bad
+neighbours, these people are regarded as the worst in the world; but
+perhaps the fears of strangers and enemies cause them to misrepresent
+and exaggerate the depraved manners of the people of Pundi.
+
+‘This evening, the king’s _first_ messenger returned from
+Inguâzhilligee, and has succeeded in obtaining a large new canoe for our
+use, which it is understood will be sent up the river to Boossà as soon
+as the queen shall have paid the purchase-money to her brother, the
+chief of Wowow. We had much rather bargain for it ourselves, but the
+desires of the meddling Midīki are imperious, and it would not be
+prudent on our part to balk her wishes.—Very unwell all day.
+
+‘_Friday, August 20th._—The widow Zuma has left a son at Wowow, who is
+about thirty years of age, and is suffered to reside here only because
+he is at variance with his captious mother, and disapproves and condemns
+all her measures. This young man has been a constant daily visiter to
+me, and brings me occasionally a dish of pounded yam and palm-oil, a few
+goora nuts, or some such trifle. At our request he has busied himself
+surprisingly in endeavouring to procure information respecting the
+papers of Mr. Park. Though nearly blind, _Abba_ (for that is his name)
+is a handsome and intelligent young man, of an equable temper, and of a
+mild, modest, and amiable disposition, which has rendered him a great
+favourite with us. From the information with which he has supplied us,
+we learn that the late King of Wowow, who was father to the present
+ruler, became possessed of much of Mr. Park’s property, amongst which
+was a great quantity of guns and ammunition, particularly musket balls,
+which we have seen. Before this monarch’s dissolution, he left them to
+be divided amongst his sons. Abba ascertained yesterday that a large fat
+woman, belonging to the king, had a great pillow which her deceased
+husband had snatched, amongst other things, from the Niger, near Boossà,
+and with which he had fled to Wowow, where he continued to reside till
+his death. This pillow, as it is called, had perhaps been used for a
+seat, for it was covered with bullock’s hide, and strengthened by ribs
+of iron; but the covering having been worn into holes with age and use,
+it was yesterday pulled to pieces by its owner, who found it to be
+stuffed with rags and cloth cut into small bits. In the centre of the
+pillow, however, to the woman’s surprise, she discovered a little bag of
+striped satin, and feeling something like a book, as she says within it,
+she was afraid to open it herself, but presently sent word to Abba of
+the circumstance, who forthwith came and imparted it to me, bringing the
+little bag along with him. On opening it I found a little iron frame,
+round which had been wound, with much ingenuity and care, a great
+quantity of cotton thread, which encompassed it perhaps not less than
+ten thousand times; and in consequence of its entangled state, it was
+provokingly troublesome to take off. Affixed to the little iron
+instrument, which is said to be a child’s handcuff of foreign
+manufacture, and underneath the cotton, was an old manuscript, which
+according to Abba’s opinion is a native charm. But as I mistrusted his
+knowledge of the Arabic language, and doubted his ability to give a
+proper interpretation of the contents of the paper, in my own judgment,
+I was induced to believe it to be neither more nor less than a charm of
+some kind. Therefore, I purchased the manuscript, because it might be of
+greater consequence than I imagined, and because the bag in which it had
+been enveloped was of European satin, and the ink with which it had been
+written very different from that which is used by the Arabs, resembling
+our own so closely, that the difference in the colour of both cannot be
+distinguished. We were advised by no means to intimate to the king the
+nature of Abba’s inquiries, for the people are all afraid of him, and
+declare that if he knew of any individual that had secreted ever so
+trifling a part of Mr. Park’s property, he would be beheaded without
+mercy.
+
+‘I felt considerably better this morning, and therefore determined to
+remain no longer in Wowow, but to leave as soon as my horse should be
+got ready. Accordingly I went to the king to pay my respects and take my
+farewell of him before my departure. I expressed my acknowledgments for
+the good reception and generous hospitality my brother and I had
+experienced from him and his subjects, and then requested permission to
+take my leave. But the monarch was unwilling to part with me so easily,
+and detained me in his company rather longer than I liked, conversing on
+matters foreign to my purpose. I related to him, at his own request, an
+account of the power, the riches, and the glory of England, and kept him
+in an ecstasy and silent wonderment for some time. “Is all this true?”
+said the old man to Paskoe, who was at my side. “It is true,” answered
+Paskoe, “for I have seen it.” “Wonderful people!” said the king. We then
+chatted for a long time about other things. The canoe, he observed,
+which he had procured for us, was an excellent one; he much admired the
+appearance of the horse he had often seen me ride, and said that, as
+that animal could be of no service to us on the water, he had no
+objection to exchange his excellent canoe for him; and if one should be
+of greater value than the other, he would cheerfully give the difference
+in cowries, provided we would consent to the same measure if the horse
+was of less value. All this I told him was undoubtedly very fair, but as
+the Midīki herself had agreed to take all the trouble of making the
+bargain, it was useless on our parts to enter into any arrangements with
+him; indeed he was candid enough to tell me so, yet he wished to beguile
+the time away as well as he could, and he continued the conversation for
+no other purpose; whereas I was weary of it, and impatient to be gone,
+for the sun was already high, and the day promised to be oppressively
+hot.
+
+‘Before I was suffered to leave him, however, he endeavoured with energy
+to impress upon my mind the high sense he entertained of Europeans, who
+were so widely different, he said, from the Arabs; so much kinder, so
+much better, so much superior in every way. He loved white men of the
+west, because good fortune was always sure to attend their footsteps
+wherever they went; all lands which they had visited had been blessed in
+them; and he had no doubt that after our departure Wowow would be
+similarly favoured. He would pray to God, therefore, to prosper us in
+our undertaking, and he felt assured that we should reach our native
+country, and he should see us at Wowow again before he died. Then
+thanking the old king again for the various kindnesses he had shown us,
+and likewise for his good wishes, which I returned fourfold, we shook
+hands heartily, and having taken my farewell, I rode out of the city.
+
+‘The journey was long and irksome, and the weather proved, as we had
+prognosticated, inexpressibly warm; but at three o’clock in the
+afternoon we entered and halted for awhile under a tree at a rural
+little village embosomed in magnificent trees, which is peopled with
+emigrants from Nouffie, and as I was exhausted by fatigue, and too
+unwell to travel further, we agreed to tarry here for the night. The
+poor harmless villagers, loving quiet and tranquillity rather than noise
+and disturbance, fled some few years ago from the persecutions and
+exactions of the Magīa, and from all the horrors of a civil war, which
+was ravaging their country like a consuming fire, and desolating all the
+most beautiful of her provinces, and sought refuge in this peaceful
+village, which lies in one of the most sequestered vallies in the world.
+They have now sons and daughters, who seem to enjoy with them the
+delights of privacy and retirement which they had been so solicitous to
+obtain; for here these simple blessings are in their fullest perfection.
+They seldom see the face of a stranger, because their hamlet is situated
+at a good distance from the road-side, and because the way to it from
+thence is dark, difficult, and lonely; nevertheless a traveller
+sometimes strays to their dwellings, and when that is the case they
+receive him with hospitality, and endeavour to make him comfortable by
+kindness. A river flows near the village, which is said to be full of
+fish, and this is a source of employment to some of its inhabitants, and
+of advantage to all. The men are not only skilful fishermen, but they
+understand husbandry as well as their neighbours; they cultivate large
+quantities of grain, and grow beans, indigo, and yams in abundance. They
+likewise keep poultry, and have flocks of sheep and goats: so that
+though their dress be poor and mean, yet they are rich as regards the
+necessaries of life, and have the means of enjoying a few of what are
+considered in this country as its luxuries.
+
+‘In the evening, when the sun was going down, and when the birds,
+recovering from the sultry heat of the day, had begun to warble in the
+coolness of evening, the elders of the village assembled under the
+spreading branches of a noble tree to spend an hour or two in familiar
+chat, in pursuance of their common practice. To promote their
+cheerfulness and assist their conversation, large calabashes of strong
+home-brewed beer were placed by the side of them. Having swallowed two
+or three large draughts, the old men drew close to each other, and the
+venerable chronicler of the hamlet, in an under tone, started a
+conversation respecting their guest, the fearful white man of the west;
+and various and horrible were the conjectures of each on the cannibalism
+of his countrymen; their mysterious supernatural powers, and their
+partiality for the blood of black men in particular. Their conversation
+became more serious as the beer begun to operate on the old men, and as
+the dusk of evening came on, they drew still closer together; their
+legs, which had before been stretched out carelessly and comfortably at
+full length on the ground, were now gathered up under them; and every
+now and then they ventured to look back over their shoulders to steal a
+glance at me, for I was not far off, but this only seemed to inspire
+them with greater fear than before. The younger natives were about this
+time returning to the village from their usual occupations by the river
+side, and in the fields, and they stopped to join the company of the old
+men. The latter were almost naked, and the young men and girls were
+perfectly so, as well as the children of both sexes, which had been
+attracted to the party, and stood listening to the tales of horror which
+were related. One of our men had been sitting all the while with them,
+partaking of their beer, and had been silent till he conceived it almost
+time to retire, when he endeavoured to undeceive them in regard to their
+opinion of the unnatural propensities of white men, and to overthrow all
+the visions of bloody adventures which they had imbibed in their
+infancy, and cherished in their old age, and which had this evening been
+strengthened almost to realities by my presence, assisted by the effects
+of the beer they had drunk. But their love for the marvellous could not
+so easily be eradicated from their minds, and they turned a deaf ear to
+his remarks. The children shunned my hut as if it contained a serpent or
+a scorpion, and one or two of them that met me by accident, started,
+then looked anxiously, eagerly, and entreatingly at me for a moment, as
+if overcome by terror, and then shrieked aloud and ran away.
+
+‘The elderly men of the village perform no manner of work, but reserve
+it for their children and grand-children, who labour for them without
+reluctance. The former lounge away their existence chiefly under the
+large tree above-mentioned, where they may be seen at all hours of a
+fine day, sitting in a group, the very picture of indolence, ease,
+peace, and comfort, and where they chat away the hours as thoughtlessly
+as if they were to live in this world for ever. They have no troubles,
+no difficulties, and no cares to interrupt their enjoyment. With what
+tranquillity and happiness does their life pass away! How smoothly and
+serenely do they go down to the grave!
+
+‘_Saturday, August 21st._—We breakfasted early this morning on a cold
+fowl and yam, which was last night sent me by a blacksmith; but we found
+it impossible to leave the village as early as could have been wished,
+owing to a heavy shower which was falling. As soon as the rain had
+ceased, we set out on our journey. Four men, sent by the king of Wowow,
+and three other individuals, amongst whom was his brother, accompanied
+us to Boossâ for eye-water, which they had induced us to promise them by
+their importunities and solicitations. Another man was in our train, who
+was the bearer of a present from the king of Wowow to his sister, the
+queen of Boossà. This present consisted of seven or eight yams, which
+are just the value of double the number of kidney potatoes in England!
+Thus attended we journeyed to the river side, which is only a short
+distance from the village. A large quantity of fish had just been
+inclosed, which was announced by loud drumming from the fishermen, as a
+signal to their companions at the hamlet to come and assist in securing
+them. The river happened to be rather shallow, but it was interspersed
+with dark projecting rocks, that would render it impossible for any one
+to proceed even in a canoe either up or down the stream; yet we crossed
+it with little or no difficulty.
+
+‘We found the road to be overgrown with rank grass and luxuriant
+vegetation, and so intricate, that we were obliged to travel very
+slowly, and my horse stumbled and fell with me repeatedly. In crossing
+the next river, where there is a ferry, for the first time since we have
+been in Africa, we saw a mother beating her child very unmercifully. The
+woman was wild with passion, but we succeeded in reconciling her to the
+object of her cruelty. Between eleven and twelve o’clock we came in
+sight of the walls of Boossà; it was raining, and one of our men, who
+had been sent by my brother for that purpose, met us on the road with a
+change of apparel for myself. I was rejoiced to find my brother
+perfectly recovered from his indisposition, and we felt as much pleasure
+in the meeting as friends that had long parted. On my entrance he was
+busily engaged in making preparations for our voyage down the Niger. The
+king of Boossà’s messenger is expected here in a day or two, when we
+hope and expect that everything will be settled to our satisfaction.’
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XII.
+
+Scandal of the Natives — Treaty for a Canoe — Defeats of the Falátahs at
+Catsheenah and Zaria — Measures of the King of Boossà for the future
+safety of the Travellers — Artifices for obtaining Presents from them —
+Preparations for Celebrating the Mahomedan Festival — The King’s Drummer
+— The Horse Race, and the King’s Speech — A troublesome Servant —
+Festivities at Boossà — The Eclipse — Version of it by the Arab Priests
+— Effects on the People — Messengers from Borgoo — Caffas — Mode of
+Preparing them — Arrival of a Fatakie — The Ashantees’ method of killing
+Elephants — Married Slaves — Their Treatment — Permission for Departure
+requested — El Kanemee the Arab — The King assents to the Travellers
+leaving Boossà — The Messenger from Rabba with the King’s Son — Joy of
+the King of Boossà at his arrival — Opinion of his general conduct
+towards the Travellers.
+
+
+_Monday, August 23rd._—It was the earnest and oft-repeated desire of the
+chief of Wowow, while we resided in his town, that we should return from
+Boossà and spend the approaching holiday with him, to which we thought
+proper to accede; indeed the old man had behaved so well to us, that we
+did not like to make him an ungrateful return. But his sister, the
+Midīki, is already jealous of her brother, because, perhaps, we have
+given him so good a character, and she says that she is apprehensive he
+may procure from us more than she is willing that he should have; and so
+she has not only set her husband’s mind against the measure, but she has
+slandered and defamed the character of her brother to us most
+shamefully.
+
+This is positively the worst trait in the character of the queen, for in
+other respects she is an amiable good kind of woman enough. In more
+civilized, or rather more polished countries, among the reasonable part
+of mankind, a mutual interchange of benevolent intentions produces a
+reciprocity of kind feeling, and we would hope that the present of yams
+from her brother would excite the Midīki’s more generous and
+affectionate sentiments for him. Yet this despicable vice of slander is
+universal in Africa; the people all speak ill of each other, from the
+monarch to the slave. We shall now be compelled to remain in Boossà,
+till the period arrives for our final departure from the country.
+
+This afternoon the expected messenger arrived from Wowow, with full
+power to treat with the Midīki for the purchase of our canoe; and though
+we are the parties most concerned in this business, we are allowed to
+say nothing at all about it. We have just learnt that the bargain has
+been concluded; we are to give both our horses for the canoe; and if the
+king of Wowow should fancy the animals to be more than equivalent to the
+value of the boat, he has promised to send us the balance in money
+(cowries). This is infinitely better than we could have done ourselves;
+we should not have contrived matters half so well, for the youngest of
+the horses we had previously made a present of to the king of Boossà,
+but most likely, owing to Paskoe’s misrepresentation, or
+misinterpretation, the monarch was not made sensible of the
+circumstance. The canoe will be sent here in a day or two, when we shall
+begin to prepare her for the water without delay. Our men have made an
+attempt to drive the bullock, which was given us by the king of Wowow,
+from that city to Boossà, no less than four different times, but each
+time the ungovernable and furious animal has broken its ropes, gored the
+people and returned to Wowow. As we have no means of preserving its
+flesh, should we slaughter the bullock before we leave, we intend to
+sell it here, if by any means it can be brought into the town.
+
+_Tuesday, August 24th._—Accounts have reached Boossà of the total
+discomfiture of the Falátahs in the kingdom of _Catsheenah_, where, it
+is said, there has lately been much fighting; and that every Falátah has
+been expelled from the city of Catsheenah, which had been occupied by
+that singular people, ever since the first successes of their prophet
+and general, Danfodio. Doncassà, who is the true and legitimate king of
+Hàussa, has been solicited to quit _Màradie_, wherein he has resided for
+many years, and invited to return to his ancient capital.
+
+The reverses of the Falátahs have not ended here, for the people of the
+little but fertile kingdom of Zaria, of which Zeg Zeg is the capital,
+have also, with the assistance of the Bornouese, risen against their
+conquerors, defeated them in two or three engagements, driven out the
+Falátahs, and returned to the allegiance of their own native Prince, who
+was formerly, and will be again, tributary to the sheikh of Bornou.
+Zaria is not in Hàussa, but adjoins that country; the natives also have
+a different language from the people of Hàussa. It appears that the
+faith and confidence which the Falátahs had in the prophetic mission of
+Danfodio, and which infused in them a degree of boldness, courage, and
+impetuosity, which is not natural to their dispositions, has not been
+extended to Bello, his son and successor, and to this is attributed the
+serious reverses and defeats which they have lately experienced; for
+though they considered themselves invincible, they are constitutionally
+as spiritless and cowardly in war, and as indolent in peace, as the
+original inhabitants.
+
+The sheikh of Bornou has recently issued a proclamation, that no slaves
+from the interior countries are to be sent for sale farther west than
+Wowow, so that none will be sent in future from thence to the sea-side.
+The greatest and most profitable market for slaves is said to be at
+Timbuctoo, whither their owners at present transport them to sell to the
+Arabs, who take them over the deserts of Zahara and Libya, to resell in
+the Barbary states. An Arab has informed us that many of his countrymen
+trade as far as Turkey in Europe, with their slaves, where they dispose
+of them for two hundred and fifty dollars each.
+
+_Wednesday, Aug. 25th._—We despatched one of our men, named Ibrahim,
+this morning, to Coulfò, with our ass, and a quantity of needles to
+sell. With him the king has sent a messenger, who has been commissioned
+to visit all the towns and villages on the Nouffie side of the Quorra,
+as far as the Falátah town of _Rabba_, and to request their chiefs and
+governors, in the name of the king of Boossà, to suffer us to pass down
+the river without inquiry or molestation.
+
+Rabba is reported to be four days’ journey from hence by water, and
+seven by land. It is said to be a fine handsome town, whose inhabitants
+are rich, numerous, and powerful, and that it is embellished all round
+with a vast quantity of graceful palm-trees. Indeed, all the palm-oil
+which is used in this country is brought from thence; and European salt
+is brought from towns a little farther down the Niger, so that Rabba
+cannot be a great way from the sea. The old Prince of Wowow intends
+following the example of the king of this place, by despatching a
+messenger as far down the Yarriba side of the river as he is acquainted
+with. Should any of the chiefs be averse to our travelling by water
+through their territories, they may have it in their power to annoy us
+and impede our progress, but if the measure should please them, they
+will be able to render us the most essential service. The Falátahs will
+be the most difficult people to deal with; they never approve of a
+foreigner or stranger of consequence coming into their dominions, unless
+he consent to visit their monarch at Soccatoo. We intended passing Rabba
+by night and so avoid meeting with any of its inhabitants; but now, as
+they will receive intelligence of the exact period of our departure from
+Boossà, and our consequent approach to their town, it is useless to
+think of shunning them. We never dreamt of requesting such a thing from
+the king; in fact it met with our decided disapprobation; but he would
+not listen to our objections, and observed that no exertion should be
+spared on his part to ensure our safety and promote our intentions,
+which he could not promise before he had officially acquainted the
+different chiefs on the banks of the river that the white men were under
+his protection, and had set out under his auspices, and therefore he
+hoped and believed, that our persons would be respected, and our
+property and people held sacred by them all. The messenger is not
+expected to return for a fortnight, for the journey is long and
+disagreeable; but whether we shall be obliged to wait till he comes
+back, we have not yet ascertained.
+
+_Friday, August 27th._—This forenoon we sent Paskoe’s wife to the king
+for the favour of a little unadulterated salt, because there is such a
+great quantity of ashes and other spurious ingredients mixed up with
+that which is publicly sold in the market, that we could never eat it
+with pleasure. Both king and queen embraced the opportunity of admiring
+the shape and beauty of the salt-box, and spoke in rapturous terms of
+the lustre of its appearance, and the ingenuity of its contrivance.
+‘Alla, how wonderful!’ said they; ‘even the most trifling articles
+belonging to the white men are fit for the use of the mightiest kings.
+Alas! Alla has given them all the glory and riches of the world, and its
+knowledge, and left none whatever for black men!’
+
+The king was affected! He thrust the vessel into the pocket of his tobe,
+smoothed it down with his hand, looked melancholy, and said: ‘How nicely
+it fits! what a beautiful thing! how convenient it would be in
+travelling.’ He then took it out again, turned it round and round,
+opened and shut it repeatedly, and then bestowing on it a last
+commendation, as outrageously as any of the former, it was returned to
+us filled with genuine salt. Who could not understand the meaning of all
+this? Now this handsome salt-cellar is of latten, and was formerly a
+common round tinder-box; and because we had nothing better for the
+purpose, we deprived it of the candlestick on its cover a short time
+ago, and converted it to its present use. The tin, moreover, has been
+burnt off from many parts of it, and Paskoe’s wife not being an admirer
+of cleanliness, it has lost much of its original brightness. The king’s
+encomiums were therefore nothing more than an indirect and ingenious
+solicitation of the article for his own use, which was further apparent
+by desiring the woman to relate to us no part of the conversation that
+had passed between them, or in other words, that she should tell us
+every syllable. We could not help admiring the delicacy of the king, and
+sent back the tinder-box to him immediately. The bearer was rewarded
+handsomely for her trouble, and we received as many thanks as when he
+accepted the silver medal and chain which we had offered him.
+
+It is by such means as this that the chiefs and rulers of this country,
+ashamed of making a direct application for anything in our possession to
+which they may have taken a fancy, endeavour to obtain it. If, however,
+the hint does not succeed in making a visible impression, less delicate
+measures are presently resorted to; and, when every other expedient
+fails, they cast aside the reserve and bashfulness which had influenced
+them at first, and express their meaning in language which cannot be
+misunderstood. In this respect the chiefs and governors are all alike
+from Badagry to the metropolis of Yàoorie.
+
+_Tuesday, August 31st._—A messenger with a canoe arrived to-day from the
+king of Wowow, but it is so very small that it is wholly inadequate for
+our purpose. This is a most provoking circumstance, because a larger
+canoe must be procured, and this will occasion much loss of time.
+Between the chief of Wowow and his sister, the Midīki, we have been
+completely taken in. Boats of a considerable size, are kept, it is said,
+at a small town on the banks of the Niger, called _Lever_, and thither
+we have resolved to proceed as soon as the Boossà messenger shall have
+returned from Rabba, and get a canoe prepared with as much expedition as
+possible. The horses given in exchange to the prince of Wowow are large,
+handsome, and superior animals, worth in England at least sixty pounds,
+and their value here is little less; yet this canoe, which has been sent
+us is scarcely worth as many pence. There is infinitely more difficulty,
+and greater bustle and discussion in simply purchasing a canoe here,
+than there would be in Europe in drawing up a treaty of peace, or in
+determining the boundaries of an empire, such vast importance do the
+people attach to the most trifling matters in the world.
+
+A man also arrived in this city to-day from a town near Jenna, in
+Yarriba, whither the king had sent him some time since. He reports that
+a vessel has lately arrived at Badágry, and by the man’s account, she is
+in all probability a slaver either from the Havana, or from the Brazils.
+
+This is the eve of the much talked of Mahomedan festival, and the
+inhabitants of the neighbouring towns and villages, resolving to enjoy
+themselves in the holidays, are already resorting here in great numbers.
+The disposition of every one appears to be softened into good nature, by
+the bare anticipation of the festival, and joy beams from their
+countenances. The very dogs, which at other times receive unkind
+treatment, and are always badly used, now run about wagging their tails
+with an air of cheerfulness and courage which they assume only on such
+important occasions as these, for they are days of grace and respite to
+them, poor brutes. Men and women, elated with the thoughts of the
+pleasure which awaits them to-morrow, are enjoying themselves in singing
+and dancing, and are seen talking and laughing in every corner; while
+the younger children, quite naked, are as frolicsome as their
+grandmothers, and are either rolling on the ground or skipping along the
+turf like ‘little playful fawns.’ On this extraordinary and momentous
+occasion, a bullock nearly half grown has been slaughtered by the
+Midīki, to supply the wants of the good people of Boossà, and those of a
+great influx of strangers and visiters, so that every one who can afford
+it may buy and eat. There has been also in the market a more than usual
+quantity of corn and rice,—indeed nothing is wanting to please the
+taste, and satisfy the appetite of all, and to render the festivities
+and rejoicings complete.
+
+A circumstance, however, occurred this morning, which threw a damp and
+chill on the spirits of the king, and threatened to turn a day of gaiety
+and enjoyment into one of mourning and sorrow. It appears that a few
+weeks since, our _quondam_ host, the drummer, was guilty of criminal
+conversation with the wife of the king’s eldest son, who is governor of
+a town a few miles from Boossà, and since the affair happened, he has
+not visited the city till to-day. Nothing would either have been said or
+done to the drummer by way of censure or punishment, if he had not, like
+rakes of whiter faces, boasted of his gallantry, and spoken in
+disrespectful terms of his paramour. When this had reached the ears of
+the elderly females of the town, in order to vindicate the honour of
+their sex, and chastise the calumniator, they arose in a body, waylaid
+the unfortunate musician, and applied their hands and fists so
+vigorously to his face and person, that he will remember the drubbing as
+long as he lives. On the arrival of the prince to-day, he sought the
+drummer to slay him, for he felt his character injured and his honour
+tarnished; and therefore commanded his attendants to lay violent hands
+upon him the moment they could find him. Now the drummer had recovered
+from the effects of the women’s punishment, and was exercising his
+profession outside the king’s house, totally absorbed in the inspiring
+music of his instrument, when by the sudden appearance of the prince
+before him, he started as though he had been in the folds of a serpent.
+He was self-convicted, and trembled with fear; he knew and felt that no
+time was to be lost, so uttering a faint cry, he sprang from the spot,
+fled from the presence of his enemy, drum and all, and ran with
+astonishing celerity towards a corn-field, where he endeavoured to elude
+the vigilance of his pursuers. But his instrument was large and clumsy,
+and becoming entangled in the corn-stocks, he was confused and
+perplexed, and lost much time in casting it from him. Meantime he was
+chased by the prince’s servants, who were all armed with large heavy
+bludgeons, and by them he was soon overtaken. These applied their
+weapons with such good heart, and so effectually, on the person of the
+licentious, sinful drummer, that his head was broken, his countenance
+disfigured, his hands and arms rendered powerless, and the other parts
+of his body almost pommelled to a mummy. When they were tired of their
+task, the men desisted from further punishment; and the drummer, covered
+with blood, by the assistance of people that were passing near at the
+time, dragged his limbs after him to the king’s house. Here he made a
+long and grievous complaint to his master, who compassionated the
+musician, and was so infuriated against his son, that he commanded his
+servants to behead him instantly. The monarch, however, was restrained
+from repeating this sanguinary mandate by the supplications of his
+principal people, who had sided with the prince, and now attempted to
+justify his conduct, and together with every woman in the place, more
+especially his own wife, declared that the drummer richly deserved the
+chastisement which he had received. The wounded man refused at first to
+be comforted, but he was at length appeased by the condolence and
+encouraging words of the king, who has made him a present of a handsome
+tobe; and thus the affair was compromised, and joy again reigned in
+Boossà.
+
+_Wednesday, September 1st._—Day was drawing to a close, and evening fast
+approaching, when the king came out of his residence to show himself to
+his people. He was attended by a number of his head men, with whom he
+perambulated the town; and afterwards proceeded outside the gates to
+offer up a short prayer with them to the gods of his religion, for he is
+still a pagan, as all his fathers were, though he employs Mahomedan
+priests to pray for his welfare, and intercede with their prophet in his
+behalf, agreeably to their form of worship. Several musicians were in
+attendance with drums, fifes, and long Arab trumpets of brass; these men
+preceded their sovereign, and played lustily on their instruments all
+the while he was returning to his house. He shortly came out again, and
+rode slowly up the race-course, attended by people of both sexes most
+uncouthly dressed, singing and dancing before him, and followed by a
+party of well-dressed men mounted on mettlesome horses, and equipped as
+if for war. On our saluting him, the monarch stopped and sent us a
+goora-nut, which, on such an occasion as this, is considered as a mark
+of great condescension, and a sign of peculiar favour; and he stayed
+opposite us at least ten minutes, to give us a fair opportunity of
+admiring his grandeur, and diverting ourselves by the frolicsome gambols
+of his attendants. Smiling at our wonderment, and gratified with the
+respect we paid him by discharging our pistols close to his person, he
+nodded and passed on. The king was mounted on a fine handsome grey
+horse, sumptuously caparisoned; while he himself is a noble and
+commanding figure on horseback, and was dressed extremely well, in a red
+cap and large turban of the same colour, a silk damask tobe of green and
+crimson, made full and flowing, red cloth trousers and Arab boots.
+Groups of well-dressed individuals were scaled under every tree with
+spears, quivers of arrows, long bows, and ornamented cows’ tails. These
+latter were flourished about as the people sang; their owners threw them
+high into the air, and danced at the same time in the most extraordinary
+manner, and flung their limbs about as though they had been actuated by
+a supernatural power. Every one was exhilarated and in motion,—both
+horseman and footman, woman and child. The musicians also, not satisfied
+by making the whole of Boossà echo with the most grating and outrageous
+sounds conceivable, both sung, or rather screamed and danced, twisting
+their mouths, with their exertions, into all manner of wry and comical
+shapes. The spectacle altogether was odd and grotesque beyond
+description, and such an one could never enter into the dreams or waking
+visions of an European. Guns were fired by the king’s followers, and
+other obstreperous and astounding noises were made by the people. Never
+did we see the king in a happier mood; his satisfaction seemed to be
+quite complete. He smiled graciously on all around him; and bestowed
+many an arch and significant look upon us, as if he would have said,
+‘Can _your_ sovereign boast so splendid a retinue as mine, or display so
+much regal splendour?’
+
+The ceremony was long and fatiguing; and though the king was screened
+from the sun’s rays by two large ponderous umbrellas, and though two men
+were standing by, constantly fanning him, yet perspiration stood in
+large drops upon his forehead, and he appeared nearly exhausted. After
+our curiosity had been amply gratified, the king rode away, preceded by
+his singing and dancing women, his musicians, his bowmen, and his
+spearmen, with all their noise and clamour, and instantly began to make
+preparations for a horse-race. The course was short, rough, and uneven,
+and the competition between the riders by no means animated. Indeed the
+race was of short duration, and very inferior to the horse-racing of
+either Kiáma or Wowow. The king is a graceful rider, and displayed his
+horsemanship to much advantage by galloping up and down the course; and,
+owing to his advantageous stature, his appearance was very becoming. The
+sun was then setting, and as soon as he had disappeared, the amusements
+ceased. The people, both strangers and inhabitants, were then collected
+together before the king’s house, for the purpose of hearing an oration
+from their monarch; for, in pursuance of an ancient and established
+practice, the king of Boossà annually harangues his people on the
+celebration of this festival. The sovereign is at least a head taller
+than any of his subjects, so that he was a remarkable and conspicuous
+object to every one of his audience. If such a comparison may be
+ventured on, the commencement of his speech was in its nature not much
+unlike that delivered on the opening of parliament by his Majesty of
+England. The king of Boossà began by assuring his people of the internal
+tranquillity of the empire, and of the friendly disposition of foreign
+powers towards him. He then exhorted his hearers to attend to the
+cultivation of the soil, to work diligently, and live temperately; and
+concluded with an injunction for them all to be abstemious in the use of
+beer. He declared that too much indulgence in it was the source of much
+evil and wretchedness, and the cause of most of the quarrels and
+disturbances that had taken place in the city. ‘Go; retire to rest
+soberly and cheerfully,’ said the king, ‘and do as I have requested you,
+when you will be an example to your neighbours, and win the good opinion
+and applause of mankind.’ The king’s speech lasted for three-quarters of
+an hour. He spoke vehemently and with much eloquence; his language was
+forcible and impressive, and his action appropriate and commanding; and
+he dismissed the assembly with a graceful and noble air. Instead of a
+sceptre the monarch flourished the tuft of a lion’s tail.
+
+While the king was haranguing his subjects, and while all of them were
+listening with respect and attention to the precepts of morality and
+virtue which he recommended, two of our own men, one of whom was
+intoxicated, were fighting and blustering, and making a great uproar
+among the people: my brother endeavoured to separate them, but all his
+efforts were unavailing and abortive, and he only received severe blows
+on the breast for his pains. The fight was observed by the king, who
+seemed distressed and angry, and rode up to the men three different
+times, and commanded them to forbear and be quiet, but his interference
+was regarded with no more respect than my brother’s. My brother and I,
+perceiving that the principal of the fellows would not be pacified by
+any other means, gave directions that he might immediately be secured.
+But the people of Boossà are gentle and compassionate in their
+disposition, and they not only regretted that the man was to receive
+punishment, but were actually afraid to come near him, for he was wild
+as a maniac, and our own men were obliged to lay hold of him, and
+attempted to bind him with ropes. This was no easy matter, for he
+struggled hard with them; but after an hour’s desperate resistance, they
+succeeded in securing him, and he was subsequently confined in irons for
+the night, much against the wishes of the king and his people. This
+individual, whose name I forbear to mention, is a mulatto, and was born
+in the British colony of Nova Scotia, from whence he was removed in his
+childhood, with his parents, to Sierra Leone. While yet a boy, he was
+sent to sea; and before he had attained to maturity, he had filled the
+different characters of a slave, a seaman, a pirate, and the master of a
+vessel. He afterwards volunteered into the British navy, and became a
+man-of-war’s man; but for a serious misdemeanour, he was flogged through
+the fleet in the Mediterranean, and deserted in consequence. We found
+him at Badágry, where he had suffered a fortnight’s imprisonment, by
+order of Adooley, for theft. When we first saw him, he told us a long
+and pitiful story, of his having been born a British subject, but
+falling sick on board of a merchant vessel, which was trading on the
+coast, he was set on shore about five years ago by orders of his
+captain, and from that time up to the period of his joining our party at
+Badágry, he had been a slave to Adooley, for the captain had left him to
+his fate. As we knew the man would be extremely useful in a canoe, to
+the management of which he has been accustomed from his infancy, and
+that he also understood the cleaning and repairing of guns, besides
+other useful matters, and as we likewise believed his artful tale, we
+obtained the consent of the Badágrian chief, whose slave he was, to part
+with him, provided we would pledge ourselves to bring him back with us
+in safety. In Yarriba, we could by no means complain of his general
+conduct; he was always willing to do everything we required of him, and
+was by far the most diligent and useful man of the party. At Boossà and
+at Yàoorie, however, his evil propensities and bad conduct began to
+display themselves: he became idle, drunken, and careless, and purloined
+several little articles, which, intrinsically, were of no value; but in
+the reduced state of our finances, they were of great consequence to us.
+Besides which, he is one of the most abandoned creatures in the world;
+and it was a common practice with him to absent himself from our party
+several days together, so that we saw nothing of him, and when he
+returned, was accompanied by complaints from the native women. This
+man’s conduct has given us both much uneasiness, anxiety, and
+apprehension; we scarcely know what to do with him, he is so profligate
+and vicious: we thought of sending him back to Yarriba by a party of men
+who will leave hence for Keeshee in a day or two, but they dread the
+thoughts of his company, and refuse to take him along with them for any
+consideration. He has already threatened the lives of more than one of
+our men, and they begin to tremble with apprehension for their personal
+safety. In his sober moments he is quiet, orderly, and good-natured; and
+it is only when his furious passions are excited by drinking, that he
+becomes altogether ungovernable, and displays all his fiend-like
+disposition, to the danger of our lives. We are likewise apprehensive
+that the natives of the country will entertain but a despicable opinion
+of us, when they reflect upon the outrageous conduct of this man, for
+his features are cast in the European mould; he dresses in the English
+costume, like ourselves; he speaks our language with readiness, and
+writes it with facility.
+
+_Thursday, September 2nd._—Yesterday was considered as a day of
+amusement and recreation for men on horseback only; but this has been
+devoted almost exclusively to dancing and singing, and other trifling
+diversions, which are more generally relished by people of all ranks,
+and of both sexes. At an early hour in the morning, the people of the
+city, with musicians in their train, assembled in large groups, and
+continued parading the streets all day, and singing and dancing were
+kept up without intermission till four o’clock in the afternoon. Nothing
+could surpass the hilarity and general good humour which prevailed among
+the people during the day. The features of every one were animated with
+joy. Theirs was no ordinary mirth; for being naturally of a warm-
+hearted, sanguine disposition, they entered into the sports of the day
+with a fervency which displayed itself in all manner of extraordinary
+tricks, gestures, and movements. This was a holiday for all, from the
+king to the meanest of his subjects. The old seemed to have forgotten
+their weight of years, the young knew no restraint, and those who before
+had talked of love in secret, now openly exchanged with each other
+
+
+ ‘Quips and cranks, and wanton wiles,
+
+ Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles.’
+
+
+A short relaxation from this tumultuous pastime was now obtained by some
+in making preparations for joining the king’s party, which was fast
+collecting at his house. Such diversions as theirs, so highly exciting
+and gratifying, are nevertheless wearisome to the strongest frame, and
+in this sultry climate must be particularly so to them. When they had
+all assembled, they presented a singular, grotesque, and striking
+appearance. A cluster of between sixty and seventy Falátahs, men, women,
+and children, were some standing and some sitting in front of the door-
+way, leading to the interior apartments. Their dresses were remarkably
+clean, neat, varied, and becoming; the long black hair of the women was
+ingeniously and prettily braided, and confined in nets and caps; and
+their flowing garments of striped cotton swept along the ground: the men
+wore red caps, loose white tobes, and full trousers; and their little
+children were pleasingly clad and decorated with all the finery and
+ornaments which their parents had been able to bestow on them. These
+well-looking Falátahs formed the most interesting and agreeable
+assemblage of the whole; they had likewise more vivacity in their looks,
+and more quickness of action than any of their companions. To the right
+of them, in an enclosure of mud, was seated the Queen of Boossà, dressed
+loosely, though not inelegantly, in rich English silks, as spectatress
+of the amusements; behind her were the king’s other wives, and her own
+female slaves, who were pretty numerous. They formed also a cleanly,
+decent group, inferior only to the former. On each side of the Falátahs,
+and behind them, was a great number of other spectators, of all ranks,
+many of whom were standing, and many sitting on the turf and reclining
+against the trunks of trees. Most of the men were clad in the Mahomedan
+costume, with cap, tobe, and trousers; and the majority of the women
+were dressed in neat and durable country-cloths, which were carelessly
+thrown over the left shoulder, and reached to the ground, leaving the
+right arm and shoulder, and part of the right leg, uncovered. A few
+among them, however, wore common Manchester cottons, of a large, showy,
+and vulgar pattern, which were infinitely surpassed by their own country
+cloth.
+
+Although the king had not made his appearance, the amusements were
+carried on with much animation; and the dancers, far from being tired,
+seemed to imbibe fresh vigour and renewed activity; whilst the drummers,
+eight in number, with a fifer as an assistant, continued playing to
+them. A man first started from the crowd with a bundle of rushes in his
+hand, like a German broom, which he flourished over his head with
+inconceivable dexterity. After dancing awhile, he was joined by two
+Falátah women, who imitated his actions, and partook of his glee. One of
+them held a little girl by the hand; and the whole four individuals,
+man, women, and child, continued the dancing till they were completely
+fatigued, when they were succeeded by another party of three or four,
+and then another in like manner, so that there was not a moment’s pause
+in the dance at any time. They kept good time with the music and
+singing. But instead of the quick, lively motion which is generally
+observed on similar occasions, the dancers moved with a slow and
+measured step, in which there was nothing unbecoming or improper, and
+all seemed consistent with the rules of delicacy. For want of a proper
+fan, the females used neat round mats of various colours; and it
+afforded us no little entertainment to see them placed before the mouth
+whenever they wished to hide their faces, or attempt to conceal their
+laughter.
+
+Meanwhile, the king was expected by every one with much anxiety and
+impatience, for as yet he had not been present to witness the diversions
+of his people; and it was not till past four in the afternoon that he
+showed himself from one of his huts. His arrival was welcomed by a
+spirited rally upon the drums, while he took his seat on a stool between
+the queen’s station and the group of Falátahs, and perceiving us among
+the crowd, he invited us to place ourselves near his person. Several
+attendants who had followed their master stood on each side of him,
+forming, if it may so be called, a ‘guard of honour.’ One of these men
+held two large bundles of spears, whose points or barbs were confined in
+caps of burnished brass, on which he rested his head with much
+solemnity, and with a slight inclination of the body; while from his
+temples was suspended a huge and enormous hat, made either of grass or
+rushes, which reached to the ground, and covered him like a shield.
+Others held loose bundles of spears, fans, and arrows, with the two
+prodigious Arab trumpets which have before been casually alluded to.
+Thus attended, the king entered into the spirit of the performances with
+a merry heart, and a determination to be pleased with them. He appeared
+to be by far the most delighted spectator of the whole, and signified
+his approbation by encouraging words and glances to those who danced or
+sung to his satisfaction. A cheerful smile animated his countenance
+during the whole time, and caused his features to assume an expression
+of good humour which it is a particular custom in him never to display
+so fully except on occasions of public festivity and enjoyment, though
+he is one of the pleasantest and best-tempered men that we have met with
+in Africa.
+
+There was an elderly female who danced alone before the king, and by the
+peculiarity of her looks, and her ludicrous and uncommon gestures,
+afforded us very great amusement. This woman is a tall, awkward,
+masculine, and uncomely figure; yet she endeavoured to look so serious
+at the same time with so arch a countenance, and with a half-averted
+glance smiled with so much artfulness and loving-kindness on her
+sovereign and his attendants, dancing at the same time with such an
+extraordinary motion of her person, that she obtained universal
+applause. This was a fair challenge to the king; and as soon as she had
+finished, the monarch himself arose and stepped into the ring to display
+his acquirements in the art. Every one stood on his legs, out of respect
+to their sovereign, as well to applaud his dancing, as to obtain a
+fairer opportunity of beholding his person; and a great press was made
+by the crowd in consequence, that they might gain a better view of him.
+The king moved with much stiffness and stateliness, which is at all
+times unbecoming in a dance; but the populace expressed their admiration
+of his abilities in shouts of joy, and certainly his attempts to please
+and amuse them deserved the full extent of applause. To us, however, it
+does not appear that Nature, which has been so bountiful to this beloved
+monarch in other respects, has fitted him for so active an amusement as
+this; for though his size approaches to the majestic, though he walks
+and rides with equal ease, and though the exercise by no means requires
+the greatest flexibility of body, his dance to us at least was a
+complete failure; for he has a foot which may be compared to that of a
+dromedary in point of size, and his toe is anything but ‘light and
+fantastic.’ When his first dance, which was much the same as that
+performed by his people, was concluded, the king began a second by
+imitating the canter of a native horse when going to war. This, as may
+be supposed, was an inexpressibly odd and whimsical experiment, but it
+lasted a short time only; for in a very few minutes he disappeared from
+the spectators by cantering into one of his huts, followed by the cheers
+of admiration and the acclamations of every one present.
+
+The sun had now set, and with the departure of the prince the singing
+and dancing ceased for the evening; nevertheless all the people
+patiently awaited his return to the spot. Now, of all the celebrated
+dancers in the country, none can excel or equal the king of Wowow in
+grace, elegance, and vivacity; and the fame of his skill in this
+amusement, which is thought so much of in this country, is gone abroad
+into all lands: every one, even his enemies, acknowledge his superiority
+in this polite accomplishment; and the envious and malicious are
+compelled to own that he is without a rival from Bornou to the sea. Yet,
+notwithstanding his renown as a dancer, the chief is a very aged man,
+having a most solemn and forbidding aspect; and though he has evidently,
+to use a common expression, one foot in the grave, he is as active as a
+boy, and indulges largely in this his favourite amusement every Friday.
+It was in order for us to witness his elegant dancing, we have been
+told, that he pressed us with so much earnestness and importunity to
+spend the holidays at Wowow, which we should certainly have consented
+to, but for the discouragement our project received from the king of
+Boossà, who was envious of his celebrity, and therefore compelled,
+rather than enticed us to remain here, that we might see his personal
+accomplishments to advantage, witness the public gaiety and festivities
+of his people, and in his imagination be struck with astonishment and
+admiration at his own perfection in the art of dancing.
+
+The Boossà people did not wait long for the reappearance of their
+monarch, for shortly after he came out to them, followed by a boy with
+two calabashes full of cowries, which were to be distributed among the
+multitude. But first of all the king took up a handful, and gave to each
+of the singers, dancers, and musicians, that had contributed so
+essentially to his entertainment; nor was the tall old woman forgotten,
+who had danced alone before him, for she received a double allowance. We
+were rather pleased at this, for she is our next-door neighbour, a poor
+old woman, who is very chatty and flippant, and has fallen in love with
+one of our young men, named Antonio. This having been done to the
+apparent satisfaction of all parties, the remainder of the cowries were
+scattered by the king’s own hand among the crowd to be scrambled for,
+which occasioned the most animating and amusing sight that can be
+conceived. Parents and children, brothers and sisters, strangers and
+friends, were scrambling and tumbling over each other, some on their
+faces and some on their knees, both giving and receiving cuffs and kicks
+in the scuffle to get at the money. This scramble lasted about ten
+minutes, when the party before the king’s house broke up; but the good-
+natured monarch, to show his affection for his subjects, whom he indeed
+regards with as much tenderness as if they were his children, was
+unwilling to send them to their homes without giving them another last
+treat, so he danced sideways half way up the race-course and back again
+to his residence with much stateliness. This was indeed a royal attempt;
+the midīki smiled with delight that she had _such_ a spouse; the people
+were louder than ever in their shouts of approbation; all was noise,
+tumult, and confusion; their sovereign was more beloved than ever he had
+been; and as the evening closed in, silence was gradually restored, and
+the people retired to their homes. This was the last of the holidays,
+and the proceedings of this day have concluded their festivities.
+
+About ten o’clock at night, when we were sleeping on our mats, we were
+suddenly awoke by a great cry of distress from innumerable voices,
+attended by a horrid clashing and clattering noise, which the hour of
+the night tended to make more terrific. Before we had time to recover
+from our surprise, old Pascoe rushed breathless into our hut, and
+informed us with a trembling voice that ‘the sun was dragging the moon
+across the heavens.’ Wondering what could be the meaning of so strange
+and ridiculous a story, we ran out of the hut half dressed, and we
+discovered that the moon was totally eclipsed. A number of people were
+gathered together in our yard, in dreadful apprehension that the world
+was at an end, and that this was but the ‘beginning of sorrows.’ We
+learnt from them that the Mahomedan priests residing in the city, having
+personified the sun and moon, had told the king and the people that the
+eclipse was occasioned through the obstinacy and disobedience of the
+latter luminary. They said that for a long time previously the moon had
+been displeased with the path she had been compelled to take through the
+heavens, because it was filled with thorns and briers, and obstructed
+with a thousand other difficulties; and therefore that, having watched
+for a favourable opportunity, she had this evening deserted her usual
+track, and entered into that of the sun. She had not, however, travelled
+far up the sky, on the forbidden road, before the circumstance was
+discovered by the sun, who immediately hastened to her in his anger, and
+punished her dereliction by clothing her in darkness, forcing her back
+to her own territories, and forbidding her to shed her light upon the
+earth. This story, whimsical as it may seem, was received with implicit
+confidence in its truth by the king and queen, and most of the people of
+Boossà; and the cause of the noises which we had heard, and which were
+still continuing with renewed vehemence, was explained to us by the fact
+that they were all ‘assembled together in the hope of being able to
+frighten away the sun to his proper sphere, and leave the moon to
+enlighten the world as at other times.’ This is much after the manner of
+many savage nations.
+
+While our informant was yet speaking to us, a messenger arrived at our
+yard from the king, to tell us the above tale, and with an invitation to
+come to see him immediately. Therefore, slipping on the remainder of our
+clothes, we followed the man to the residence of his sovereign, from
+outside of which the cries proceeded, and here we found the king and his
+timid partner sitting on the ground. Their usual good spirits and
+cheerful behaviour had forsaken them entirely; both appeared overwhelmed
+with apprehension, and trembled at every joint. Like all their subjects,
+in the hurry of fear and the suddenness of the alarm, they had come out
+of their dwellings half dressed, the head and legs, and the upper part
+of their persons, being entirely exposed. We soon succeeded in quelling
+their fears, or at least in diminishing their apprehension. The king
+then observed, that neither himself nor the oldest of his subjects
+recollected seeing but one eclipse of the moon besides the one he was
+gazing at; that it had occurred exactly when the Falátahs began to be
+formidable in the country, and that it had forewarned them of all the
+wars, disasters, and calamities, which subsequently took place.
+
+We had seated ourselves opposite to the king and queen, and within two
+or three feet of them, where we could readily observe the moon and the
+people without inconvenience, and carry on the conversation at the same
+time. If the royal couple shuddered with terror on beholding the
+darkened moon, we were scarcely less affected by the savage gestures of
+those within a few yards of us, and by their repeated cries, so wild, so
+loud, and so piercing, that an indescribable sensation of horror stole
+over us, and rendered us almost as nervous as those whom we had come to
+comfort. The earlier part of the evening had been mild, serene, and
+remarkably pleasant; the moon had arisen with uncommon lustre, and being
+at the full, her appearance was extremely delightful. It was the
+conclusion of the holidays, and many of the people were enjoying the
+delicious coolness of a serene night, and resting from the laborious
+exertions of the day; but when the moon became gradually obscured, fear
+overcame every one. As the eclipse increased, they became more
+terrified. All ran in great distress to inform their sovereign of the
+circumstance, for there was not a single cloud to cause so deep a
+shadow, and they could not comprehend the nature or meaning of an
+eclipse. The king was as easily frightened as his people, being equally
+simple and ignorant; he would not therefore suffer them to depart.
+Numbers sometimes beget courage and confidence, he thought; so he
+commanded them to remain near his person, and to do all in their power
+to restore the lost glory of the moon.
+
+In front of the king’s house, and almost close to it, are a few
+magnificent cotton-trees, round which the soil had been freed from
+grass, &c., for the celebration of the games. On this spot were the
+terrified people assembled, with every instrument capable of making a
+noise which could be procured in the whole town. They had formed
+themselves into a large treble circle, and continued running round with
+amazing velocity, crying, shouting, and groaning with all their might.
+They tossed and flung their heads about, twisted their bodies into all
+manner of contortions, jumped into the air, stamped with their feet on
+the ground, and flourished their hands above their heads. No scene in
+the romance of Robinson Crusoe was so wild and savage as this; and a
+large wood fire, with a few men spitted and roasting before it, was
+alone wanting to render it complete! Little boys and girls were outside
+the ring, running to and fro, clashing empty calabashes against each
+other, and crying bitterly; groups of men were blowing on trumpets,
+which produced a harsh and discordant sound; some were employed in
+beating old drums; others again were blowing on bullock’s horns; and in
+the short intervals between the rapid succession of all these fiend-like
+noises, was heard one more dismal than the rest, proceeding from an iron
+tube, accompanied by the clinking of chains. Indeed, everything that
+_could_ increase the uproar was put in requisition on this memorable
+occasion; nor did it cease till midnight, when the eclipse had passed
+away. Never have we witnessed so extraordinary a scene as this. The
+diminished light, when the eclipse was complete, was just sufficient to
+enable us to distinguish the various groups of people, and contributed
+in no small degree to render the scene still more imposing. If an
+European, a stranger to Africa, were to be placed on a sudden in the
+midst of the terror-struck people, he would imagine himself to be among
+a legion of demons, holding a revel over a fallen spirit; so peculiarly
+unearthly, wild, and horrifying was the appearance of the dancing group,
+and the clamour which they made. It was perhaps fortunate for us that we
+had an almanac with us, which foretold the eclipse; for although we
+neglected to inform the king of this circumstance, we were yet enabled
+to tell him and his people the exact time of its disappearance. This
+succeeded in some measure in suppressing their fears, for they would
+believe anything we might tell them; and perhaps, also, it has procured
+for us a lasting reputation ‘and a name.’ ‘Oh,’ said the king, ‘there
+will be sorrow and crying this night from Wowow to Yàoorie. The people
+will have no one to comfort or condole with them; they will fancy this
+eclipse to be the harbinger of something very dreadful; and they will be
+in distress and trouble till the moon shall have regained her
+brightness.’ It was nearly one o’clock when we left the king and queen,
+to return to our hut; everything was then calm and silent, and we lay
+down to rest in peace.
+
+_Friday, September 3d._—The king’s messenger came to us this morning
+with the intelligence that his master had caught cold by exposing
+himself the preceding night, and was confined to his apartment with
+severe pains in the bowels. We have also to complain of a similar
+indisposition. One of our men, who offended so grossly at the horse-
+racing two days ago, has been liberated, and appears ashamed of himself
+and truly penitent. He promises to abstain from drink in future, to
+deport himself soberly and orderly, to lay aside all thoughts of
+revenge, and to be ready and willing at all times to do anything which
+may be required of him. Notwithstanding his protestations, however, we
+are resolved to place our guns and ammunition beyond his reach, together
+with all edged instruments whatsoever; for heretofore his temper has
+been known to be sullen, furious, and unforgiving, which may yet lead to
+disastrous consequences, and may involve us in difficulties.
+
+_Monday, September 6th._—The man we sent to Coulfò, a fortnight since,
+to sell our ass, needles, &c., is not yet returned to Boossà, though he
+has exceeded the period we had specified for his absence by three or
+four days. Fearing that something unpleasant may have happened to him,
+we this day despatched one of the king’s people to Coulfò, in order to
+ascertain the cause of his delay; and if nothing detains him more than a
+want of sale for his goods, he is to return instantly with this
+messenger, rather than put us to inconvenience by a longer stay in that
+city.
+
+The Niger is now completely full, and in many places its banks are
+already overflowed, so that it is extremely favourable for our
+proceeding down the river. With the change in the moon, however, we have
+had a constant succession of heavy showers, which have compelled us all
+day long to remain within doors, in a close, black, and smoky hut;
+having the disadvantage of damp, dirty walls, and of being pestered with
+myriads of black and white ants; and so long as the rains continue, we
+shall be able to take no other kind of exercise than that of moving
+round this miserable abode, like prisoners in a condemned cell. It is
+perhaps fortunate, after all, that our canoe has not been got ready so
+soon as we had anticipated, for constant exposure to the rains upon the
+water, in an open boat, would be extremely unpleasant. Yet it is time
+that we should leave Boossà, for in spite of the friendship of the king
+and queen, more especially of the latter, which is declining very fast
+indeed, their benevolent feelings are growing colder every day; our
+resources at the same time are diminishing rapidly, and when they are
+gone, we know not what we shall do. We now receive only a calabash of
+_caffas_ (a kind of dough or paste) from the king once in three days, so
+that we are compelled to eat them, at times, either in a state of
+putridity, or go without; and our men are half-famished, from the
+careless inattention, or perhaps from the wilful negligence of the
+midīki; we cannot, like the camelion, live upon air, and we have not a
+single cowrie to spare to purchase provisions. Our powder is reduced to
+a very small quantity, and in all probability we have not half so much
+as we shall require on the Niger; so that for some time past we have
+relinquished our sporting excursions altogether, though these once
+afforded us an ample supply of game for the consumption of our whole
+party.
+
+Caffas are little cakes made of meal and water boiled together. There
+are several different kinds of corn at Boossà, all of which are also
+made into caffas. The method of separating the grain from the husk, is
+by cutting the ears from the stalk and placing them in a kind of wooden
+mortar, in which they are subjected to pressure from a heavy piece of
+wood. The whole is then exposed to the wind on an elevated situation, by
+which the husk is blown away. The process of grinding the corn is
+performed on a large stone slab, with another heavy stone which is
+worked by the hand. The slab is placed for the sake of convenience in an
+inclined position, and is sufficiently large only for the person to
+perform the operation on his knees, and it is one which requires no
+little exertion. Their only method of cooking the meal when thus
+prepared, is by boiling it with water to the consistency of thick paste,
+in which state it is poured out in small portions on leaves, and laid by
+for use.
+
+_Wednesday, Sept. 8th._—Messengers from the king of Borgoo arrived this
+morning in the city from the metropolis of Niki, accompanied by a few of
+the principal merchants of a large _fatàkie_, which is now resting at
+Zalee, a small town about two hours’ walk to the westward of Boossà, and
+which we passed through on our journey. These men are on their way to
+the more easterly parts of the continent. They say here, that about
+twelve months since, a fatàkie consisting of an extraordinary number of
+traders, with horses and other beasts of burden, laden with merchandise,
+were travelling through Borgoo, on their route to Gonja, whither they
+were going to purchase the goora or kola nut. They were attacked,
+however, and plundered by the soldiers of Niki and Kiàma, who had laid
+in ambush for them; and rumour says, that the princes of those countries
+shared the booty between them. It happened that in the train of these
+merchants, and who in fact formed part of the fatàkie, were six men from
+Boossà; and when the news of their disaster and enslavement was
+communicated to their king, he is said to have been irritated in the
+highest degree, insomuch that he instantly despatched men with a
+peremptory message to the sultan of Borgoo, to liberate his captured
+subjects, and restore to them their horses and property, or prepare for
+the consequences of his resentment in case of a refusal. This message
+was treated with contemptuous indifference by the Niki sovereign, and he
+returned to the monarch of Boossà a haughty and disdainful answer. But
+as soon as the latter heard it, he assembled the priests of the ancient
+religion of the country of which he is the head, and by their joint
+assistance, it is said, he made a powerful enchantment, by which the
+legs and arms of his enemy became entirely useless. The king of Borgoo
+finding himself in this helpless state, and his conscience reproaching
+him with the cause of it, he immediately liberated the Boossà merchants,
+restored to them their horses and property, and forwarded the messengers
+we have already spoken of as having arrived to-day from Niki, to solicit
+forgiveness of the king of Boossà, for the crime which he had
+perpetrated, and implore that the spell which bound and was consuming
+him might be dissolved forthwith. The men came loaded with presents of
+goora-nuts, &c., and they have been joyfully received. Perhaps the
+Borgoo monarch hastened to make restitution for his offence, not on
+account of his enchantment, as these people imagine, but rather from
+public and political considerations; for, in consequence of the above
+quarrel, several of his towns had been taken possession of by the king
+of Boossà, which will now be abandoned, if the differences be amicably
+adjusted between the parties, that their inhabitants may be permitted to
+return to their former allegiance. The king of Boossà was restrained
+from making further conquests in Borgoo, only by the interference of the
+king of Wowow, who represented to him that the revenge he had already
+taken was more than proportionate to the offence that had been committed
+against him, and that he ought to rest satisfied therewith. The Niki
+messengers have been treated with the greatest respect, and the most
+generous hospitality.
+
+Like all earthly things, the pleasure and satisfaction excited by the
+novelty of our persons have passed away, and we are no longer either the
+objects of care and attention from the king and his midīki, or of
+curiosity among the natives. If we stay here much longer, this neglect
+on the part of the former will become alarming. No provisions have been
+sent us to-day, and our wants have been entirely lost sight of in the
+important arrival of these messengers from Borgoo. All has been joy in
+consequence; music and its usual accompaniments of discordant sounds
+have been going forward since; and bustle and confusion prevail
+throughout the city. Our people alone are sad, for they have nothing to
+eat.
+
+_Thursday, Sept. 9th._—The fatàkie mentioned yesterday as being at Zalee
+on the road to this city, arrived here this forenoon, preceded by a
+drummer on horseback, as usual, to animate the party by the sound of his
+instrument. They entered Boossà one by one, which is their usual method
+of travelling, and formed a very long train, the chief merchant of the
+whole bringing up the rear. This company consists of about four hundred
+individuals; and they have a great number of fine horses, a few mules,
+and two hundred asses, to carry their luggage. Their chief, and in fact
+their only merchandise, is the goora-nut, for which they have been to
+Gonja, a place only a few days’ journey from Accra.
+
+Gonja was till very recently a province of Ashantee, and inhabited by a
+people between whom and the Ashantees there is no manner of difference
+whatever, the manners, language, religion, and pursuits of both being
+precisely the same. But these goora merchants report that it has lately
+been separated from that empire, and is now an independent state. They
+say, that preceding the commencement of hostilities between the
+Ashantees and the British at Cape Coast Castle, &c., and their allies
+the Fantees, the former power requested the assistance of the people of
+Gonja in a premeditated attack against their enemies, which was objected
+to on the ground that the British had not offended them, and therefore
+they disliked coming to an open rupture with our countrymen. Nothing was
+said at the time by the King of Ashantee concerning the refusal of the
+men of Gonja to assist him in the war; and when his subjects returned to
+Coomassie in triumph, after having defeated and slain Sir C. Macarthy,
+he seemed to have forgotten it altogether. For some time after his total
+defeat by the British at Cape Coast Castle, he was still silent. But
+when he had recovered from the wounds he had received at this sanguinary
+battle, and the harmony of his subjects had been completely restored, he
+considered that then was the most proper time for punishing Gonja for
+its disobedience. For this purpose, say the merchants, he assembled a
+body of ten thousand men, most of whom were armed with muskets, and sent
+them, under the command of chosen captains, against the devoted
+province. But in the mean time the people of Gonja had been by no means
+inactive, for having heard of the great preparations that were making at
+Coomassie, and being convinced that those preparations were designed
+against their own lives and liberties, they formed a plan of attacking
+their invaders and defeating their project, which succeeded to the
+utmost of their wishes, and even beyond their expectations. When they
+had learnt from a swift-footed messenger of the departure of the
+Ashantee army from Coomassie, and the road which they had taken, they
+stationed large bodies of stout, well-armed men in ambuscade at various
+places in the bush, close to the pathway, and awaited the coming of the
+foe. While the latter was drawing near to Gonja, not suspecting danger
+of any kind, and straggling about in imagined security, the men in
+ambush rushed out upon them, made a sudden and desperate attack on their
+whole force at the same moment, which threw the Ashantees into
+confusion, and the latter, dropping their arms, fled into the woods. The
+carnage is reported to have been dreadful. The conquerors gathered up
+the arms of their enemies, sung a song of victory, and returned in
+triumph to the city of Gonja.
+
+The king of Ashantee, according to the accounts of the merchants, on
+being informed of this disastrous and unlooked for event, was more
+exasperated than ever against the successful party, and vowed revenge
+against them, their city, and their country. He therefore, very shortly
+after the failure of the first expedition, sent another army, stronger
+than the former, with a command to destroy the rebellious city, and
+annihilate its inhabitants entirely. This news spread consternation
+among all classes of people in Gonja, and alarmed the strangers that had
+located in the country, insomuch that, on the advance of this second
+formidable army, they could not command sufficient resolution to go out
+against it, but deserted their dwellings and dispersed themselves
+through all parts of the adjacent countries, till such time as their
+enemies should think proper to return to Coomassie. It is almost
+unnecessary to add, that the city of Gonja was set on fire by the
+Ashantee soldiers, in pursuance of their commands, and every house in it
+burnt to ashes. The people, however, fancying the king’s wrath to be
+sufficiently appeased, were beginning to return again from the places of
+their concealment, on the departure of the fatakie, and were busily
+engaged in reconstructing their habitations.
+
+We do not place entire confidence in this tale, for almost every African
+is guilty of gross exaggeration in his statements, and too many of them
+are confirmed liars; so that, after all, the above story may only be
+_founded_ on fact.
+
+_Friday, Sept. 10th._—Ever since the arrival of the Borgoo messengers,
+nothing else is heard in the city but music, which is continued from
+sunrise to sunset; and the long Arab trumpets are likewise sounded
+constantly in the middle of the night, the king taking this whimsical
+method of displaying his consequence and grandeur to the foreigners,
+which has amused us not a little. The dress of these Borgoo men differs
+but slightly from that which is worn by the people of Boossà and the
+neighbouring nations. We were favoured with a visit from them to-day,
+and their behaviour was remarkably decorous, though at first somewhat
+reserved. In their address they are extremely humble; and when they
+accost a superior, they prostrate themselves on the ground in the most
+abject and humiliating manner. Their chief is an elderly, quiet,
+respectable man, and professes the Mahomedan religion. On his entrance
+into our hut, this forenoon, he had so little confidence in himself, and
+was so timorous, that he could not speak; he shook like a leaf, and his
+lips also quivered from fear; indeed, the poor man was distressingly
+agitated,—perhaps he thought that we were going to devour him: but he
+regained his assurance when he found that such was not our intention,
+and in a very few minutes he became chatty, agreeable, and
+communicative.
+
+We have received two messes from the king lately, one consisting of a
+dish of stewed elephant’s flesh, and the other of the flesh of an
+hippopotamus, which had been caught in the Niger a short time before.
+The latter was rank and fat, and bore a greater resemblance to pork than
+to any other meat with which we are acquainted, yet it is considered
+delicate and delicious eating.
+
+The method adopted by the natives of destroying the elephant is very
+simple. A large harpoon is thrust into the ground, in the middle of a
+path which they are known to frequent in their nightly excursions to the
+river for water, leaving the ragged points of the instrument above the
+ground in an inclined position, and concealing them with straw or
+stubble. The heavy beast, unsuspicious of danger, pursues the usual
+track with his companions; he comes in contact with the harpoon, which
+enters his breast or belly, and having no sagacity to draw back, the
+elephant, smarting with pain, forces himself forwards with all his
+might, which causes the weapon to penetrate still more deeply into his
+body, and he thus becomes a prey to his destroyers. Considering the vast
+number of elephants which inhabit the woods on the banks of the Niger
+hereabouts, it is singular that so few of them are annually destroyed by
+the natives. Perhaps one reason is the little encouragement they receive
+for their trouble; for the flesh of these beasts, except when very
+young, is almost unsaleable, by reason of its toughness and rancid
+nature; their teeth also are valueless here, no use whatever being made
+of them.
+
+_Saturday, September 11th._—Our ears were saluted just after day-break
+this morning, by a dreadful noise between a man and his wife, who were
+squabbling about some money matters, and, as is usual in such cases,
+they were surrounded by all their female neighbours, whose clatter
+exceeded, if possible, their own. They are slaves of the midīki, and
+reside in our yard, within a door or two of our hut. The quarrel
+terminated in blows and tears, which was instantly made known to the
+queen, who commanded the delinquents to appear before her, and having
+entered into all the circumstances of the case, the differences between
+them were adjusted on the spot. The woman accused her husband of having
+stolen from the place where she had concealed them, no less than four
+hundred cowries, which was the original cause of the dispute. The
+accusation could not be denied; and the man endeavoured to soothe his
+wife by gentle words, and bring her into good humour by flattery, and
+expressed contrition for his offence; but this aroused the anger of the
+furious woman, who abused her husband with all the reproachful epithets
+she could make use of; and though she was blubbering all the while, she
+would have gone a still greater length, if he had not stopped her mouth
+by a severe beating. So little tenderness or sociability exists between
+a married couple, particularly if they should happen to be slaves, that
+they have nothing in common; and though they eat and sleep in the same
+hut, they seek a separate livelihood.
+
+Perhaps it would be speaking within compass to say, that four-fifths of
+the whole population, not only in this country, but likewise every other
+hereabouts, are slaves. Many of them are permitted to roam at large,
+provided they attend upon their masters when called upon; these procure
+their own subsistence, and devote part of their time to the service of
+their owners: others reside in the houses of their masters as domestic
+servants, and are likewise expected to contribute towards their own
+support. The Queen of Boossà has a great number of Falátah slaves; the
+men are constantly employed in taking care of her herds, and milking the
+cows, and the females dispose of the milk; half of the money obtained by
+this means, the Falátahs keep to maintain themselves. Thus are the
+slaves treated in their native country—they enjoy much freedom; are
+never overworked; have plenty of leisure time, and are rarely punished,
+and even then but slightly. If a slave run away from his master, and is
+afterwards taken and brought back, he is simply confined in irons a day
+or two for his offence; but he is sold to another the first opportunity.
+The natives have a strong antipathy to flogging, or severe chastisement
+of any kind, and very seldom have recourse to the means of punishment
+which they have in their power to inflict.
+
+_Sunday, September 12th._—Our man, who has been expected with some
+anxiety and apprehension for his safety, arrived this afternoon from the
+city of Coulfò, but with very little money indeed, having disposed of
+the ass for less than half its value, and sold, comparatively speaking,
+a very small quantity of needles. The remainder, which were valued at
+thirty thousand cowries, were stolen from him, he asserts, a few days
+before his departure; but we strongly suspect that this is a falsehood,
+and that the fellow has converted them to his own use. Since the
+messenger to Rabba left Boossà on his errand, we have heard no
+intelligence whatever concerning him; and as every thing is now ripe for
+our enterprise, we begin to feel impatient and uneasy at our long, and
+to us, unnecessary detention in this place, and the irksomeness of our
+present dependent situation; for we are often troubled with painful
+apprehensions and surmises, that something unpleasant may yet intervene
+to frustrate our intentions, embarrass us with difficulties, and
+extinguish all our anticipations of success.
+
+The king had not visited us for a fortnight, and therefore we sent a
+message to him this forenoon, intimating the great anxiety we felt to
+proceed on our journey, and our earnest hope that he would permit us to
+do so immediately, even before the return of his messenger from Nouffie.
+We complained that we were destitute of almost everything; that we were
+wearied out with repeated disappointments, and with having nothing to do
+for so long a time; that our health was fast declining, and our life
+wasting away; and concluded by assuring him, that if we did not quickly
+return to our country, the worst consequences might ensue, and then what
+would become of his good name? To this the king made answer, that it was
+our future welfare alone, which had induced him to take those measures
+and precautions which he perceived with sorrow we disapproved of and
+disliked so much; that we did not display our wisdom by our impatience;
+and that to attempt proceeding down the river before the return of his
+ambassador, would, in his opinion, be not only presumptuous and
+improper, but would likewise be highly injurious to our interests.
+
+The king promised to come and see us in the evening, and talk over the
+matter with us himself. According to his promise, therefore, he paid us
+a visit at the time appointed, and recapitulated that which he had
+before told Paskoe, but added that it would be absolutely necessary for
+us to make a good present to the King of Nouffie, and another to the
+Falátah chief of Rabba. He then gave broad hints for one of our pistols,
+which he admired in the usual way; but as we were not _obliged_ to
+comprehend his enigmas, and as we could ill spare the pistol, we
+appeared very stupid, and would not understand his meaning. The king
+shortly afterwards took his leave, yet he was by no means angry at the
+failure of his ingenious device. In respect to his recommendation that
+we should endeavour all in our power to make friends of the King of
+Nouffie and the Chief of Rabba, we have nothing left worthy of their
+acceptance, and shall therefore attempt to shun one of these rulers at
+least.
+
+_Monday, September 13th._—It is reported here, that _El Kanemee_, the
+celebrated Arab so often spoken of in Major Denham’s Journal, has fallen
+into disgrace with the Sultan of Bornou, who has had him imprisoned, and
+would have punished him with death, but for the interposition and
+remonstrances of the Mahomedan priests in the capital, who diverted him
+from his purpose by a solemn declaration, that if he should carry his
+resentment to such an extremity, there would be no rain in the country
+for seven years, for so their book, the Alcoran, had predicted; but that
+if the Sultan would be merciful, and resort to a milder punishment by
+liberating the Arab after a short confinement, these prophetic priests
+promised him that ‘his horse should certainly drink of the waters of the
+Quorra,’ that is, he should vanquish all his enemies that were at that
+time between Bornou and the Niger, at the end of three years. The
+superstitious prince hearkened to these sayings of the crafty priests,
+and set his minister at liberty after a short imprisonment. The Arab was
+accused by the sultan of treasonable practices, and of having in
+particular made various attempts to obtain the affection of the people,
+by caresses and flattery, and of enticing them to revolt, so that he
+might at a future day usurp the rights of his sovereign, and cause
+himself to be proclaimed sultan in his stead.
+
+_Tuesday, September 14th._—The same superstitious notions and prejudices
+respecting witches, wizards, and ill-wishers, and the same belief in
+necromancy, prevail here at this day, as were current in enlightened
+Europe as recently as the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The king
+sent a messenger this morning to request the favour of a couple of
+charges of powder, stating that two women had absconded to _Foco_, which
+is a town on the banks of the Niger, a little way below Inguâzhilligee,
+and that if it should be found necessary, the powder might be used to
+frighten the runagates into a compliance with the wishes of their
+pursuers. In the evening the women, who had surrendered themselves at
+Foco, landed here from a canoe, and were immediately put in confinement.
+We are told that these two poor old creatures resided on an island a
+little way up the Niger, and were lately accused by their town’s people
+of the crime of witchcraft, and with two old wizards, their neighbours
+and friends, of ‘_having eaten the spirits of five individuals_,’ who
+all are said to have died by this means. The men, aware of the
+persecution and the fate that awaited them should they be taken,
+succeeded in making their escape as soon as this crime was laid to their
+charge; but the females were not quite so fortunate, for the place of
+their concealment was made known to the king, and he caused them to be
+apprehended, as above mentioned. One of the reputed witches is a very
+aged woman, but her companion is not quite so old. The punishment that
+awaits them is perpetual slavery, whereas if the men had been caught,
+they would have been bound hand and foot, and flung into the Niger, and
+there left to perish. All witches, wizards, and ill-wishers, are treated
+in the same manner; the punishment of witches not being so rigorous as
+that of their male associates in the black art, in consideration of
+their sex. The belief in their power is very general, and instances of
+people fancying themselves bewitched, and suffering from their malignant
+incantations, are by no means uncommon.
+
+_Saturday, September 18th._—During the last fourteen days my brother had
+been extremely indisposed from a slight attack of bilious fever, which
+has brought him to a very low and languid state, insomuch that I urged
+the king on Wednesday to send us away, to try if change of air and scene
+would not produce a beneficial effect on his health. The monarch, after
+many scruples and much hesitation, at length appointed the second day of
+the moon, that being, he pronounced, the happiest and luckiest of all
+days. He could not, however, forbear expressing his deep regret at our
+determination of leaving Boossà before the return of his messenger from
+Nouffie; it might be detrimental to our personal interests, and his own
+reputation also would suffer if any thing should befall us on the river,
+but he had already given his word for our departure, and from this
+promise he could not swerve. To-day is the second of the moon, but the
+Africans calculate upon it as the first only, because they never see
+that orb plainly till the second time of her appearance. This afternoon
+we wished to pay our respects to the king, previous to our departure,
+which we understood was to take place to-morrow morning, but to our
+surprise he asserted that the moon would not be discernible that
+evening, and therefore that Monday next will be the day which was
+specified. The moon, however, _did_ shine fairly in sight of all the
+people; nevertheless we have made no further remark to the prince on the
+subject, thinking it might confuse and irritate him.
+
+_Sunday, September 19th._—This morning we were so unlucky as to upset a
+large bowl of milk, one of which we are daily supplied with from the
+king’s house. We sent to have it replenished, because in our present
+circumstances we could ill afford to lose so great a luxury. Instead of
+gratifying us in this particular, however, he expressed himself quite
+overjoyed at the circumstance, and asserted that it was the most happy
+omen in the world, and that we ought to consider ourselves as peculiarly
+favoured and fortunate. So we were obliged to content ourselves without
+breakfast, of which the accident had deprived us, because of the
+superstitious nonsense of the monarch.
+
+Everything is now got ready for starting. As it is not our present
+intention to call at many inhabited places on the banks of the Niger, we
+have provided ourselves with a great quantity of provisions, which
+consists chiefly of three large bags of corn and one of beans. We have
+likewise a couple of fowls and two sheep, so that we are of opinion we
+shall have food enough for all hands for three weeks or a month at
+least. To add to our stock, the king and midīki between them have given
+us a considerable quantity of rice, honey, corn, and onions; and two
+large pots of vegetable butter, which weigh not less than a hundred
+pounds.
+
+This afternoon, to our unspeakable joy, the long-expected and wished-for
+messenger arrived in this city from Rabba, accompanied by two messengers
+from the king of Nouffie, one of whom, a modest-looking, respectable
+young man, is his own son. These men are to be our guides as far as
+Rabba, after we have passed which city, all the Nouffie territory to the
+southward is under the _surveillance_ of Ederesa and his partisans. ‘The
+Magīa,’ says the Boossà ambassador, ‘was delighted with the intelligence
+that white men were to honour his dominions with their presence; he
+showed me the presents made him by Captain Clapperton three years ago,
+and said a great deal in his favour and commendation. And as a proof,’
+continued the man, ‘of his friendly disposition towards you, and his
+interest in your welfare, he has not only sent his son as your companion
+and guide, but he has likewise despatched a messenger to every town on
+the banks of the Niger, either considerable or unimportant, even as far
+as Funda, which is beyond the limits of the empire; and he is
+commissioned to acquaint their inhabitants of the fact of your intention
+of proceeding down the river, and to desire them to assist you with
+their encouragement and support, so far as it lies in their power to
+do.’
+
+After some little consideration, we knew not whether we ought to feel
+pleasure or regret, thankfulness or indifference, at the arrival of
+these men, and the occasion which brought them hither: at present we can
+only foresee that they will be a heavy burden on our funds; and as it
+happens that we have the utmost difficulty in the world in supporting
+ourselves, it will cause us additional trouble, expense, and uneasiness,
+in providing them with the bare necessaries of life. The king, however,
+had but one feeling on the subject, and that was unbounded delight; he
+capered around his hut with transport, when he saw our guides and heard
+their message; and after a burst of joy, he began to cry like a child,
+his heart was so full. ‘Now,’ said he, when he had become more composed,
+‘whatever may happen to the white men, my neighbours cannot but
+acknowledge that I have taken every care of them, treated them as became
+a king, and done my best to promote their happiness and interests. They
+will not be able,’ continued the monarch with exultation, ‘they dare not
+have the effrontery to cast at me a reproach like that which they
+bestowed upon my ancestor. I can now safely entrust the white men to the
+care, protection, and hospitality of a neighbouring monarch, who, I am
+convinced, if not for my sake, at least for his own, will receive and
+entertain them with every mark of distinction and kindness. I know and
+feel that towards them I have done my duty, and let my neighbours see to
+it that they do theirs.’ And so he has, for though we have been his
+guests for so long a time, and been occasionally not a little
+troublesome to him with our importunity, yet we have observed nothing
+either in his manners or character to condemn, but much, very much, to
+approve of and admire. His disposition is open and ingenuous, and his
+sentiments candid and sincere; no child is more simple, innocent, and
+unsuspicious than he. The little we have had to complain of is owing to
+our detention here longer than we wished; but then, perhaps, we have
+been a little too hasty and petulant, and it must likewise be remembered
+that in regard to us the king’s reputation and honour were at stake, and
+after all he may be perfectly right in his opinions and conjectures.
+
+This evening an old Mahomedan priest, whose countenance seemed to
+radiate with meekness, simplicity, loving-kindness, and good-nature,
+entered our dwelling, and entreated us with earnest importunity to give
+him before our departure a quantity of deadly poison, a very small
+portion of which he wished might destroy life in a few moments after it
+should be taken. The hoary old villain did not hesitate to confess, in
+confidence, that his motive for making this strange request arose from
+the desire he felt to administer the poisonous drug to a neighbour, whom
+he longed to put out of the world, because he had done him some slight
+imaginary wrong. Of course we execrated the horrid intention of the man,
+who, rather than listen longer to our reproaches, turned his face and
+walked away. In the night Boossà was visited by a thunder-storm. During
+the time we have been at Boossà, the thermometer has ranged between 76°
+and 93°, but it has most generally been between 80° and 90°, and the
+weather very oppressive.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIII.
+
+The King and Midīki take leave of the Travellers — They embark on the
+River and depart from Boossà — Island Melálie — Inguâzhilligee — Island
+Patáshie — The Chief of Teàh — Messengers from the King of Wowow —
+Perplexity of the Travellers respecting their Route — Terror of the
+Natives at their Appearance — An Invalid — Diseases of the Natives —
+Their Medicines — Richard Lander goes to Wowow — Superstition of the
+Natives — Charms — Return of Richard Lander to Patáshie — His Interview
+with the King of Wowow — House of Correction at Patáshie — Native Pagan
+Priest — Departure from Patáshie — Ráah — Arrive at Lever — An officious
+Friend in the Priest Ducoo — Disappointment of the Travellers.
+
+
+_Monday, September 20th._—As may be supposed, our hearts beat high this
+morning with the anticipation of at length leaving Boossà, and of
+proceeding on our journey; and we were all on the _qui vive_ at a very
+early hour, ransacking our lumber, packing it up, and turning it all out
+into the yard, from whence it was conveyed to the water-side. About
+breakfast-time the king and queen arrived at our hut, to pay us a
+farewell visit, and bestow upon us their last blessing. They brought
+with them two pots of honey and a large quantity of goora nuts, strongly
+recommending us to present the latter to the Rabba chieftain, for that
+nothing we might have in our possession could so effectually conciliate
+his favour, procure us his friendship, and command his confidence. When
+mutual compliments were passed, we expressed our acknowledgments to both
+of them with sincerity and earnestness, for the benevolence,
+hospitality, and attention, with which they had uniformly treated us;
+for their kindness to us; for their zeal in everything that regarded our
+welfare; and for the protection they had afforded us during a period
+little short of two months, in which we had enjoyed the utmost security,
+and as much of happiness and gaiety, as it had been in their power to
+bestow. And we assured them, that should we be so fortunate as to return
+to England, it would be our first care to acquaint our countrymen of all
+their kindness to us, which we would remember as long as we lived. We
+then shook hands heartily, and concluded by wishing them a continuation
+of the simple blessings and the felicity they enjoyed; that they might
+ever be loved by their subjects, and feared and honoured by the
+neighbouring nations; that they might live to a good old age and die in
+peace with all mankind. They were both touched with sorrow at our words,
+for they were the last which they would hear us utter; tears were
+glistening in the eyes of each as they were making an affecting and
+suitable answer; and the good couple walked out of our hut with heavy
+and mournful countenances, and immediately repaired to their own abode
+in order to make a powerful spell for our preservation and success.
+
+When we ourselves quitted the hut, which was shortly after their
+departure, we found our yard filled with neighbours, friends, and
+acquaintances, who all fell down on their knees to bid us good bye. They
+blessed us earnestly with uplifted hands, and those among them that were
+of the Mahomedan religion, fervently implored for us the favour and
+protection of Allah and their Prophet. The eyes of many of them were
+streaming with tears, and all were more or less affected. As we passed
+by these poor creatures, we spoke to them all, and thanked them again
+and again for their good wishes. Our hearts must have been of marble if
+we could have beheld such a scene without some slight emotion. On our
+way towards the river, also, the path was lined with people, some of
+whom saluted us on one knee, and some on both, and we received their
+benedictions as we walked along.
+
+It was exactly half past nine in the morning when we arrived at the
+river side, where we found two canoes lying to receive our goods, which
+we quickly loaded. But with that indolence and indifference which
+distinguish all ranks of people here, the canoemen did not make their
+appearance till nearly two hours after, though we had sent messengers
+repeatedly to them to hasten their coming; the head of them is the
+‘Sullikin Zhilligee’ (king of the canoe) that conveyed us from Kagogie
+to Yàoorie. When our people were all embarked on the Niger, and
+ourselves, we humbly thanked the Almighty for past deliverances, and
+fervently prayed that He would always be with us, and crown our
+enterprise with success.
+
+We had been but a short time on the water, when we discovered that the
+smaller canoe, in which were six individuals and a number of sheep
+belonging to the Nouffie messengers, was overladen and in danger of
+sinking, and that both were very leaky, insomuch that it required three
+men to be constantly employed in baling out the water to keep them
+afloat. To lighten the smaller canoe, we took a man from her into our
+own, and afterwards we proceeded more safely and with less apprehension;
+yet, at one o’clock in the afternoon, we were obliged to put into a
+small island called _Melàlie_, to get it repaired, for we were afraid to
+proceed any further with the small canoe on account of the rocks and the
+velocity of the current.
+
+The chief of the village, a decent-looking, elderly man, came down to
+salute us at the water-side; and would not suffer us to depart till he
+had prevailed on us to drink beer with him and fire off our guns, when
+he compelled us to accept of a fine kid, which we were too polite to
+reject. He was dressed in a tobe made of a mixture of country cloth and
+Manchester cotton, &c. After we had remained on the island about half an
+hour, which was occupied in making the necessary repairs to the canoe,
+we launched her out into the water, expressed our thanks to the chief,
+and took our leave. Melàlie is tolerably cultivated, and is inhabited
+solely by Borgoo men. It lies on the western side of the river. Between
+this island and Boossà, the river is full of small islands, with
+channels of deep water between them. The banks on both sides are very
+fertile, as well as the islands themselves, which are mostly inhabited
+and well cultivated.
+
+The current, according to our estimation, was here running at the rate
+of five or six miles in an hour; and the bed of the river was full of
+rocks, some of which were only a few inches below the surface of the
+water, which occasioned it to make a loud rushing noise, and forewarn
+the canoeman of his danger. Owing to the skilfulness of ours, we
+succeeded in crossing one or two sunken reefs, which, in the dry season
+more especially, must be extremely dangerous; even as it was, we
+experienced considerable difficulty in getting over them. At two o’clock
+we passed the boundaries of Boossà, on the eastern side of the river,
+and entered the dominions of the King of Nouffie. A town belonging to
+the former power, on the eastern bank of the river, marks the spot; but
+we were unable to ascertain its name. We then travelled along by the
+side of an island, very woody, called ‘Any Man’s Land,’ which, though
+fertile, is uninhabited, in consequence of the vast number of wild
+horses which it is said to contain.
+
+At five P.M., we came to Inguâzhilligee, having passed, just before, a
+very large and pleasant, but straggling town, called _Congie_[3].
+Inguâzhilligee[4] is the first town on the Wowow ground, all above, on
+the western bank of the Niger, belonging to Boossà. Journeying along for
+a quarter of an hour without stopping here, we put into a market town,
+on a large and beautiful island called _Patàshie_, just in time to save
+ourselves from a heavy shower; and here we shall be obliged to remain
+till the return of a messenger who we landed in the middle of the day,
+and sent to Wowow for the purpose of informing the king of our departure
+from Boossà, and of our intention to abide at Patàshie till he chooses
+to send us the large canoe that we have purchased of him. We are now out
+of the protection of the friendly monarch of Boossà, who will have
+nothing further to do with us.
+
+About twenty or thirty paces from the river’s side, we discovered a
+great quantity of huge bones and skulls of hippopotami, piled up on a
+high platform which has been erected for the purpose. These, we
+understand, are preserved as trophies by the natives, on much the same
+principle as foxes’ tails are kept by many country gentlemen in England.
+From the decayed appearance of some of the skulls, we are inclined to
+believe that most of the animals must have been destroyed very many
+years ago. We were speedily introduced to the chief, who gave us a
+hearty welcome, and who we found to be a little round, fat, jolly-
+looking old man; and as soon as was convenient, we were conducted to an
+excellent hut, received a quantity of provisions from the chief, and
+then lay down to rest. Thermometer 76°, 86°, 88° during the day.
+
+_Tuesday, September 21st._—Patàshie, as we have said, is a large, rich
+island, unspeakably beautiful, and is embellished with various groves of
+palm, and other noble trees. Its distance from Boossà, as nearly as we
+can guess, may be between forty and fifty miles. It abounds with horses,
+asses, bullocks, sheep, goats, poultry, &c., and produces abundance of
+corn and yams; in fact the soil is so exceedingly fertile, and its
+inhabitants so industrious, that not an acre of ground in the whole
+island, it is said, is left without cultivation. Patàshie is tributary
+to Wowow, though it is inhabited solely by Nouffie people, who are
+considered honest, active, laborious, and wealthy. We find the river
+very much swollen, the banks are of a shelving nature, and the water is
+now nearly on a level with the highest part of them. We observed several
+small villages on the Nouffie side.
+
+Our hut has this day exhibited a scene of revelry and mirth more
+becoming a native inn than a private dwelling.
+
+The chief of the island, accompanied by our four messengers from Boossà
+and Nouffie, our canoemen, and several of his own people, all dressed
+‘in their holyday best,’ paid us a visit in the earlier part of the
+morning, and out of compliment, I fancy, remained with us till evening,
+with the exception of a short absence in the middle of the day, during
+all which time they were employed in swallowing palm-wine, which is
+procured in the island in great plenty, and in telling nonsensical
+stories. We were glad when they said it was time to depart, and having
+shaken hands with the ardour of drunkards, they took their leave,
+staggered out of the hut, and all went laughing away.
+
+It is rather singular that though the chief is a sooty black, he has
+bright blue eyes. We received from him about noon a fine goat, and
+messes of pounded yam and meat, stewed in palm-oil. These were brought
+in well-carved wooden dishes, of huge dimensions; and we subsequently
+received an ewe sheep, and similar dressed dishes, from the chief of an
+island belonging to Nouffie, which lies abreast of this, and whom we
+have not yet seen.
+
+The magīa’s son (whose name is Mohammed), and whom we find to be a very
+intelligent youth, informs us, that if the prince of Wowow be unable to
+furnish us with a canoe sufficiently large for our purpose, it would be
+well to demand the restoration of our horses, which we could dispose of
+advantageously in Nouffie, and purchase a quantity of beads, and other
+trifles, with the money, as presents to the various chiefs along the
+banks of the river. Instead of purchasing a canoe ourselves, which would
+be very expensive, the young man promised, in the name of his father, to
+obtain one of commodious size, which should answer all purposes, and
+take us to _Tagra_, with men whom it should be his business likewise to
+get. Tagra, we believe, is very near Benin. In our own opinion, this
+would certainly be the safest and best means of journeying down the
+Niger, as the protection of all the chiefs would thereby be insured to
+us. But we are apprehensive that we have gone too far towards adopting a
+different scheme, and we see very little likelihood, indeed, that we
+shall be able to embrace the plan suggested, and so strongly recommended
+by Mohammed, unless the Wowow ruler be not in a condition to perform his
+engagement, and is willing to return our horses, which does not appear
+to us at all probable, under existing circumstances. The messenger we
+sent to him is not yet returned. Thermometer 74°, 83°, 85°, during the
+day.
+
+_Wednesday, Sept. 22d._—This morning we were visited by the revellers of
+yesterday, who brought with them several gallons of palm-wine, which
+they swallowed in a very short time, and to every appearance we were
+threatened with a renewal of yesterday’s debauch; but luckily for us
+they went out for a few minutes to procure more liquor, when we embraced
+the opportunity of closing the door of our hut against them, and thus
+prevented their re-entering it.
+
+In the morning we were favoured with a visit from the chief of Teàh, the
+Nouffie island alluded to yesterday. He is a venerable-looking old man,
+of advantageous stature, and exceedingly corpulent. He expressed the
+utmost delight and satisfaction on seeing white men before he died, and
+declared it was a pleasure, which neither his father, mother, nor uncle,
+had ever enjoyed, and a gratification which his ancestors had never
+hoped for; he should therefore cherish the remembrance of it as long as
+he lived. We have with us a quarto edition of natural history, with
+plates; these, though incomprehensible to the natives of Yarriba, appear
+to be extremely well understood here, and have excited in the minds of
+those that have seen them the highest degree of admiration, rapture, and
+wonderment. The old chief of Teàh gazed upon them in silent
+astonishment; but when we took out a watch and mariner’s compass for his
+inspection, and their uses were explained to him, he became at first
+very uneasy, and afterwards perfectly wild with amazement. No one in the
+world could express more naturally or forcibly the emotion of wonder, or
+the passion of fear, which the countenance of this old man displayed as
+he looked at the watch; nor could he be persuaded for a long time but
+that it was in possession of life and being, and had the power of
+moving. After a long and friendly chat the good old chief saluted us,
+and took his leave.
+
+Teàh lies very near the island of Patàshie, from which it is divided
+only by a very narrow channel. Of the two, Teàh is said to be the larger
+and more populous; but with regard to agreeableness of appearance,
+amazing fecundity of soil, and natural productions, they are pretty much
+alike, both being beyond description fertile and beautiful. In both
+provisions are reasonable, and in the greatest plenty; they are both
+inhabited by individuals of the same nation, who enrich the islands by
+their industry and labour; and both have been equally exempt from those
+intestine broils and commotions which have for so long a time agitated
+and impoverished the natives of the main land.
+
+In the evening a messenger arrived from the king of Wowow, with news not
+at all to our liking. He informs us that we were anxiously expected in
+that city from Boossà at the time of the holydays; and because we did
+not come agreeably to our promise, the prince could not conceal his
+chagrin, and was exceedingly angry not only with the king of Boossà, who
+was the cause of our absence, but with us likewise. The messenger
+continued, that his sovereign had most certainly procured for us a
+canoe, which is laid up at _Lever_; but that if we wished, or rather if
+we were determined to have our horses back again, the king would send
+them to us in compliance with our wishes, ‘for who,’ said he, with much
+emphasis, ‘would presume to assert that the monarch of Wowow would keep
+the property of others?’ ‘It would not be paying him that respect,’ he
+continued, ‘which his rank and situation demanded, were the white men to
+leave his dominions and the country altogether, without first coming to
+pay him their respects, and he would therefore entreat us to pay a visit
+to Wowow immediately for that purpose, or if both of us could not leave
+Patàshie, he requested that I would come and bid him adieu, because I
+had not done so when my illness compelled me to leave his city.
+
+The man finished his message by complaining bitterly of the conduct of
+the king of Boossà, who, he said, had acted towards his sovereign
+deceitfully, unhandsomely, and inconsistently, throughout all the
+transactions in which we have been principally concerned. We ourselves
+are confident that the king of Wowow will strongly object to the
+arrangement of his relative, regarding our being sent either to the
+magīa or to the chief of the Falátahs at Rabba, if not endeavour to
+frustrate it, because he is at enmity with the one, and both fears and
+hates the other. But how he can positively prevent this scheme from
+being carried into effect, seeing we shall have the magīa’s son and a
+Nouffie messenger in the same canoe with us, we cannot imagine.
+
+The monarchs of Boossà and Wowow seem to have very opposite opinions
+regarding our journey. The former insists on the necessity of our
+proceeding down the Niger on the eastern or Nouffie side, which would
+certainly be the most interesting and desirable; whereas the other makes
+use of strong language to persuade us that the Yarriba side of the river
+would be the most convenient, the most agreeable, and the safest; and
+that if we would make up our minds not to attend to the king of Boossà’s
+advice, he would send a messenger with us, who should protect us even to
+the sea. This difference of opinion, we are apprehensive, will involve
+us in a thousand perplexities; yet we must be guided in our choice
+entirely by circumstances. Interest, present or remote, and prejudice
+and passion, seem to sway the minds of both these rulers, though each of
+them avows his disinterestedness. The king of Boossà, a good man, but of
+an humble, yielding, peaceful, enduring temper, and of a timorous,
+wavering disposition, requests us earnestly to visit the Magīa and the
+Falátahs, because he knows it would gratify their vanity, and make them
+his friends for ever;—the king of Wowow, of a firm, sagacious, and
+unbending mind, scorns the friendship and defies the power of either,
+and is inveterate in his dislike both of the very name of Falátah, and
+that of the brother of Ederesa; he is aware that our visiting their
+territories in person, would not only be paying them a very high
+compliment, but would likewise, in some measure, be advantageous to
+them, and is guided by this decided partiality in doing all in his power
+to bring us over to his own views and sentiments. From the treatment I
+experienced at Soccatoo, I must say that I entertain a very great
+aversion to the whole Falátah nation; and am of opinion, that if we put
+into Rabba, according to the suggestions of the king of Boossà, we shall
+be detained there till Bello be informed of the fact, and his intentions
+with regard to us be communicated to the chief. I am therefore inclined
+to adopt the advice of the king of Wowow, rather than to comply with the
+wishes of his august relative, though there is no just or reasonable
+ground to fear either ill-treatment or detention at the hands of the
+Falátahs, more especially since we have received ample and satisfactory
+assurances from the powerful chief of Rabba himself of their favourable
+disposition towards us, that we shall be received as friends, and meet
+with every encouragement and support as far as their power and interests
+extend, and as far as their name is known and respected. Yet we cannot
+follow the bent of our own inclinations; we are involved in difficulty;
+and though everything appears propitious to our enterprise, yet we are
+not masters of our own actions; we must follow where others lead, and we
+are still in doubt as to what we shall do. At all events, we shall be
+guided in our choice entirely by circumstances; ‘we shall trust our
+fortune to the powers above,’ and can only pray that an indulgent
+Providence will succour, befriend, and protect us in all circumstances,
+as it has heretofore done.
+
+The Wowow ambassador will rest with us to-morrow; and, on the day
+following, I intend accompanying him to that city, not only to pay my
+respects to the sovereign, but likewise to have a final and decisive
+answer from him regarding the canoe, without further subterfuge or
+procrastination. Thermometer 76°, 87°, 89°, during the day.
+
+_Thursday, Sept. 23d._—At Boossà, latterly, we had the greatest
+difficulty and trouble in procuring the bare necessaries of life; but
+here, in this flourishing Patàshie, provisions have been sent us from
+the chiefs of the two islands, in such abundance, that half of them, we
+regret to say, have been unconsumed by our people and thrown to the
+dogs: we have received from each of them, daily, as much as a strong man
+could carry, consisting of the usual gigantic bowl of pounded yam and
+meat, stewed in palm oil. People here, of all ages, display the most
+anxious, though perhaps natural curiosity to see us; and large crowds of
+them assemble every day, and wait from morning till night, patiently,
+till they have gained the object of their visit. However, they are all
+as timid as hares, and if we happen to look fixedly in their faces for a
+moment, most of them, more especially the females, and the junior
+classes of both sexes, start back with terror, as if they had seen a
+serpent in the grass; and when we attempt to walk near any of them, they
+run away screaming, as though they had been pursued by a lion, or were
+in danger of falling into the jaws of a crocodile, so horrified are
+these poor people at the bare sight of a white man, and so frightful do
+their imaginations picture him to be.
+
+In the evening, long after the sun had gone down, the chief brought a
+youth for us to pass our opinion on, whom he introduced as a near
+relative. He has been ill for the last fourteen months, and the chief
+prayed that we would endeavour to cure him of his complaint. He is a
+tall, lank young man, of humble, modest, and reserved manners. From a
+state of robust health and vigour, which it appears he formerly enjoyed,
+he is wasted away almost to a skeleton; and his temper, once pleasant,
+cheerful, and sprightly, has lost its elasticity, and he is become
+thoughtful, dejected, and melancholy: however, though the invalid rarely
+enjoys sound and refreshing sleep, yet he has a wonderful appetite, and
+he eats with voracity. We sincerely regret our ignorance of the nature
+of his disorder, and therefore our utter inability to do him the
+slightest benefit; nevertheless, the old chief solicited us so warmly
+for medicine, and with such pressing importunity, that rather than give
+offence, and because the young man complained of a sore throat and neck,
+which seemed to annoy him at present more than anything else, we chafed
+those parts with a little spirits of hartshorn, and wrapped round them
+several folds of warm flannel. It was all that we could do to relieve
+his pain, and it seemed to give complete satisfaction. Poor people! how
+happy did this little service make them!
+
+The natives are subject to very few diseases, and those, generally
+speaking, are not of a dangerous or malignant tendency. As far as we are
+able to judge from the symptoms he describes, the complaint under which
+the old chief’s _protégé_ labours, approaches nearer to the nature of
+consumption than to any other disease with which we are acquainted.
+Small pox is very prevalent, but we do not hear that it often terminates
+fatally. The Guinea-worm is frequently met with; ulcers, of that
+frightful description which prevails on the coast, are unknown; but
+agues and slight fevers are by no means uncommon; and of all complaints,
+sore eyes and affections of the bowels are by far the most general.
+Properly speaking, the natives have no active medicine of their own,
+though they boast an acquaintance with a variety of medicinal plants,
+which, as far as our observation extends, are wholly inefficacious; they
+likewise ascribe the most wonderful healing properties to a quantity of
+roots and fibres of trees, which are sought after and vended by a number
+of idle, lazy fellows who pretend to be Mahomedan priests: however, from
+our experience, these do neither good nor harm, being perfectly innocent
+in their effects, and altogether useless. The root of a large and scarce
+tree holds so high a reputation for the astonishing properties which it
+is supposed to possess, that it has obtained, by way of distinction, the
+name of the ‘mother of roots.’ Besides its other virtues, the credulous
+people believe that, whilst they have the smallest portion of this
+celebrated ‘mother of roots’ about their persons, they can assuage every
+sorrow, alleviate every misfortune; banish care from their minds and
+want from their dwellings, avert pain, and secure happiness. From the
+Arabs, however, the natives obtain great quantities of _trona_, which is
+a fossil alkali, and is found on the borders of the desert. It is a
+strong and active aperient, and possesses other medicinal properties
+which are understood by the people. It is taken by all ranks in every
+complaint, of whatsoever nature it may be. Trona is likewise beat to a
+powder and mixed with snuff, to which it imparts a great degree of
+pungency. And lastly, it is given to horses, sheep, and other animals,
+which eat large lumps of it with the greatest avidity. Thermometer 78°,
+89°, 91°, during the day.
+
+_Friday, September 24th._—The Boossà canoemen, who have been intoxicated
+every day since they have been here, returned to their homes this
+morning in a state of ebriety, having received a shilling each and a few
+needles, as a reward for their labour. Shortly after their departure, I
+landed for the purpose of proceeding to Wowow, and took possession of a
+house on the bank of the river, which had been prepared for me. The King
+of Wowow’s messenger accompanied me, and having got everything ready as
+soon as we could, we commenced our journey towards his city. It was the
+intention of the man from Boossà to have taken his leave of us here, and
+return to his sovereign; but when he heard the extraordinary
+communication and insinuations of the Prince of Wowow, he changed his
+mind, and resolved to accompany me as above related. I left my brother
+on the island to take care of our things, and the following remarks were
+made by him in my absence.
+
+‘The Nouffie messengers remain here with me, and the Queen of Boossà’s
+“master of the horse” has determined not to leave us till after our
+arrival at _Lever_, though we would much rather dispense with his
+company. They tell us that _Rabba_ is two days’ journey by water from
+the town of Lever, and three from Funda, and that Funda is four days’
+journey from the sea. On our arrival at Rabba, says Mohammed, or after
+we shall have delivered a present to its chief, and the formalities of
+introduction are gone through, he will supply us with horses to convey
+us to a town wherein the Magīa resides, and which is about two days’
+journey from thence, for it will be necessary that we should pay our
+respects to him in person.
+
+‘The chief of Patàshie came to see me this evening by lamp-light,
+accompanied by his sick relative, whom he pronounced to be much better,
+having slept soundly during the night, and experienced a mitigation of
+pain. I applied a little more spirits of hartshorn to his throat, and
+recommended temperance in eating, gentle exercise in the open air, to
+beware of chills, and avoid exposure to nightly damps and dews. The old
+chief and his nephew (for that is the relationship between them) took
+their leave of me with many expressions of thankfulness. Our hut has
+been literally crammed with visiters nearly the whole of the day.
+Thermometer 77°, 88°, 92°, during the day.
+
+‘_Saturday, September 25th._—Nothing worthy of particular notice has
+occurred to-day; I continue to receive the utmost hospitality and
+kindness from the old benevolent chiefs of Teàh and this island, the
+latter of whom stays with me almost all day long. He took a fancy to the
+only English coat which is now left me, its green colour seeming to be
+the principal cause of his admiration; and as it is of little
+consequence here how uncouthly soever an European may be dressed, I cut
+off part of its skirts to make him a cap. A woman belonging to the chief
+died to-day in a state of insanity. According to the people’s account,
+the deceased was in good health three days ago, but this morning a
+malicious female demon entered into her, and began to exercise her
+malign propensities by tormenting her victim, throwing her upon fires,
+and into the water, causing her eyes to roll in a frenzied manner, and
+making her lie along the ground, raving and roaring most furiously. Last
+of all, they say the evil spirit put an end to her torture by _eating
+her life_, and she died. Thermometer 74°, 80°, 83°, during the day.
+
+‘_Sunday, September 26th._—A Mahomedan priest, furnished with pen and
+ink, arrived at Patàshie to pay his respects to us, and without wearying
+me with questions, he sat down very composedly and commenced writing an
+Arab charm or prayer, for our health, preservation, and success. I felt
+no inclination to interrupt the man’s benevolent intention; and when he
+had finished, the Magīa’s son, who happened to be present, animated by
+the same laudable impulse, produced a charm possessing, no doubt, as
+many virtues as the Mallam’s. These are nothing more than short extracts
+from the Koran. Both men appeared to write the Arabic character with a
+readiness and facility which one would scarcely expect to find in this
+remote country. Charms or amulets are in universal use, more especially
+in Yarriba, where, perhaps, the Mahomedan religion is least felt, and
+has made least progress. They are generally encompassed with red cloth
+or leather; are worn for the most part on the left arm; and from ten to
+twenty are sometimes observed on the person of one individual. This
+custom might have originally been introduced into the country by the
+Arabs, and disseminated by their means through all these parts of the
+continent. The phylacteries of the ancient Jews, which were little rolls
+of parchment, containing written passages from the Holy Scriptures, and
+which used to be worn upon the forehead and the wrist of the left arm,
+might have given the Arabians the hint of wearing extracts from the
+Koran in like manner, and which, by the lapse of ages, have degenerated
+into the present superstitious practice of wearing charms, which is so
+prevalent in Africa. The same idle stories with regard to reputed
+wizards, necromancers, &c., which are current in Boossà, obtain as great
+a degree of credit here; and the people likewise believe in other
+absurdities equally detestable. To-day a man has been accused of eating
+the spirit or living principle of another; but in what manner he is to
+be punished, no one has yet informed us. Thermometer 76°, 86°, 91°,
+during the day.’
+
+_Monday, September 27th._—I returned in the warmest part of the day from
+my visit to Wowow, with no less than three men as messengers from the
+king, the whole of whom are to accompany us to Lever. It has ever been
+the policy of all the African rulers of the cities and kingdoms through
+which we have passed since leaving Badágry, to furnish us with a greater
+number of guides and messengers than we have either required or wished.
+In the present instance, one would have been amply sufficient for our
+purpose, but, as on former occasions, the Wowow men are the king’s
+slaves, and will be obliged, on their return, to lay before their
+monarch whatever we may give them as a reward for their trouble; he will
+take from them as much as he likes, which most likely will not be less
+than seven-eighths of the whole, and the little left will then be
+divided among the messengers, so that self-interest alone has induced
+the king to send us three men, because three men will be entitled to
+more wages than one.
+
+On my arrival at Wowow on the 24th instant, I felt too much fatigued
+from the length of the journey, and the heat of the weather, to pay my
+respects to the monarch, and therefore desired to be excused from
+visiting him till the morrow. Accordingly, on the following day, I had
+prepared myself to go to the king’s house, in pursuance of my agreement,
+but was greatly surprised on learning that the eccentric old man had
+excused himself from being seen on that day, on the same plea as I had
+the day before, observing that he had taken a ride to view his gardens
+in the morning, and that the exercise had so much tired him, that he
+felt no inclination whatever to receive visiters till next day.
+Therefore, it was not till the 26th, that the king granted me an
+audience, and then he said, with the greatest indifference, ‘I have not
+yet been able to procure you the canoe which I promised to get; but I
+have no doubt that the ruler of Patàshie will have it in his power to
+supply you with one to your satisfaction, for which purpose I will send
+an express to that island without delay, whom I will furnish with the
+necessary instructions to effect an immediate purchase.’ Thus, with as
+much discussion as would fill a volume, continued with little or no
+intermission for seven weeks, between the sovereigns of two countries,
+who during that period were sending messengers to each other
+continually, the mighty business which had employed all their thoughts,
+and in which they were unceasingly engaged—the simple purchase of a
+canoe, is even now left unfinished; in fact, up to the present moment,
+no more has been done in the matter, than when we first made known our
+intentions and wishes to the king of Boossà from the city of Yàoorie two
+months ago. So much for the expedition with which Africans usually
+transact their affairs. The king took the opportunity of informing me,
+that he should by and by set about erecting a suitable building for the
+reception of our countrymen, whenever it should please them to come up
+the river to trade: for the old man cherishes the belief, in common with
+other rulers on the banks of the Niger, that numbers of Europeans will,
+some time or other, certainly visit his country for the purposes of
+traffic.
+
+Before my departure, the monarch showed me, in compliance with my
+request, the whole of his collection of charms, which are written on
+sheets of paper, glued or pasted together. Amongst them I discovered a
+small edition of ‘Watts’s Hymns,’ on one of the blank leaves of which
+was written:—‘_Alexander Anderson, Royal Military Hospital, Gosport_,
+1804.’ It is perhaps unnecessary to say, that Mr. Anderson was the
+companion, and I believe a very near relative of the celebrated Mr.
+Park. From the Wowow chieftain, as well as from his good old brother,
+and our friend Abba, I and my attendants experienced the most liberal
+hospitality; and, on taking my leave of them, they wished me farewell in
+the most cordial and affectionate manner. Besides the note from Mr. and
+Mrs. Watson to Mr. Park, which we obtained when at Boossà, we also saw
+another from Lady Dalkeith, of the same date, acknowledging the receipt
+of some drawings from him. Thermometer 76°, 89°, 93°, during the day.
+
+_Tuesday, Sept. 28th._—It is really tiresome to say anything further on
+the provoking subject of the canoe; yet we think it necessary to remark,
+that not a single one is to be found here sufficiently large for our
+purpose, or at all answering the expectations held out to us by the
+prince of Wowow. Lever is therefore again fixed on as the place where
+our wishes are to be answered, and our hopes realized; and we are given
+to understand that we shall leave this place for thence at an early hour
+to-morrow.
+
+On walking across Patàshie to-day, in perhaps its narrowest part, we
+found the island to be about a mile in width; yet, in comparison to its
+breadth, it is very disproportionate, being several miles in length.
+Patàshie is extremely populous for its size, and large clusters of huts
+are scattered all over the island. From a gentle eminence on the main
+land opposite, its appearance bears a striking resemblance to the more
+beautiful parts of the sea-coast.
+
+The people have a hut here, wherein all females who conduct themselves
+indecently, or commit any crimes or offences, are imprisoned. This
+building is distinguished from the others by its size, situation, and
+superior appearance. Outside the door-way, and on each side of it, are
+two clay figures, nearly as large as life, which are affixed to the
+wall. One of them is intended to represent a woman in an upright
+position, and without clothing, so that every female who sees it may be
+reminded of the object and origin of the institution; but the thing
+looks extremely odd, and the execution, as might be supposed, is rude
+and contemptible. The figure opposite to it is a pretty good
+representation of a crocodile; and is placed against the wall, I
+suppose, merely as an ornament. Nearly all the junior classes of the
+population here go entirely naked; and it is not before they attain to
+man’s or woman’s estate that they begin to clothe themselves. Red clay
+is in general use among females of all ranks. The Magīa’s son intends
+leaving us to-morrow, on a visit to his father, whom he will inform of
+our movements, &c. From thence he purposes proceeding to Rabba, where he
+will stay till our arrival. Thermometer 76°, 87°, 90°, during the day.
+
+_Wednesday, Sept. 29th._—After our luggage had all been packed up this
+morning in readiness for our departure, and everything had been prepared
+for that purpose, word was brought us from the chief, that we should be
+unable to start till to-morrow, because the Niger, he said, would
+receive a great influx of water to-night, which would be considerably in
+our favour. As it rained heavily and incessantly nearly the whole of
+last night, and as we had continued heavy showers almost the whole of
+this forenoon, we have made no complaint or fuss at our disappointment,
+but quietly await the coming of to-morrow. In the evening we were
+urgently solicited by the hospitable chief of Patàshie, for a charm to
+render him successful in all his shooting excursions, and in hunting the
+hippopotamus. This request was soon followed by a similar one from his
+brother. For ourselves we are obliged to follow the current of opinion,
+or consent to lose our credit and be regarded with detestation; and, as
+our charms are likely to be as effective as those of the Arabs, we
+sometimes oblige the natives in this respect. Thermometer 75°, 85°, 87°,
+during the day.
+
+_Thursday, Sept. 30th._—Between eight and nine o’clock in the morning,
+horses were brought us from the chief and his nephew, to take us to the
+water’s side, where the luggage had been previously conveyed. Here we
+waited a good while till canoes were brought from another part of the
+island, there being but one got ready at the time of our arrival. While
+we stood near the water’s edge, hundreds of people were collected there
+to look at us, and among them was a native Pagan priest, who was dressed
+more fantastically than any Merry-Andrew in Christendom. His clothing
+was manufactured almost solely of fine soft grass. His head and
+shoulders and part of his body were hid underneath an enormous thing, in
+shape like the roof of a hut, with a fringe and tassels of stained
+grass. A tobe, made also of grass, excellently woven and of various
+colours, encircled his body, and reached as far as the knee; and the man
+wore likewise trowsers of the same material, and plaited in a similar
+manner, but this was unstained, and of the colour of dried grass; it was
+turned up at the ankles, though a deep fringe hung to the ground. He
+approached several individuals that were sitting on the turf, and
+stooping over them, the priest enveloped the upper part of their persons
+in his uncouth head-dress; shook it over them, which produced a strange
+rustling noise; screamed in a most frightful and unearthly tone; and
+then arose to perform the same barbarous ceremony to others.
+
+[Illustration: _The fetish at Patashie_]
+
+When the canoes had arrived, and all our things had been removed into
+them from the beach, we were desired to ride to a landing-place further
+down the island, because of the rocks, which are reported to intercept
+the stream at a little distance from the place whereon we stood, and to
+be very dangerous for canoes which are heavily laden. But first of all
+we took a cordial farewell of the hearty old chief of _Teàh_, who had
+come over to see us before our departure. The venerable governor of
+Patàshie, to whom we are under so many obligations, then preceded us on
+the footway, walking with a staff; and we reached the appointed place of
+embarkation exactly at the same moment as the canoes. There we found a
+man and woman sitting on a mat, which was placed on the grass,
+refreshing themselves with Guinea nuts and water; we partook of their
+fare by invitation, and as the canoes were waiting for us to come on
+board, we bade adieu, in the most expressive manner, to the good old
+chief of Patàshie, and thanking all the friends that had accompanied us
+thither, we jumped on board, and pushed off from the shore, cheered by
+the natives that were present.
+
+The current bore us rapidly along, but we regretted to find the river
+again broken up by rocks and numerous small islands, which spoil its
+delightful appearance, and render it unnavigable. A few miles below
+Patàshie, are three islands, abreast of each other, and by no means
+destitute of beauty or verdure, which are called collectively _Ràah_. On
+one of them is a large trading town, and near it the canoemen landed to
+get some refreshment. We then continued our course for some time without
+meeting any obstacle to embarrass us; but afterwards, in order to get
+clear of a reef of rocks, we were obliged to make our way through an
+exceedingly narrow channel, overhung with the branches of trees, and
+more than half filled with rushes and tall luxuriant grasses. This
+brought us into the main river again, and having passed along in front
+of one or two towns on the banks of the river, we came in sight of
+_Lever_, which was the place of our destination, and where we landed at
+one o’clock, after rather a short excursion from Patàshie of three
+hours. Lever may be distant from that island about twenty miles.
+
+Our surprise was great indeed, when, instead of the proper person whom
+we expected would have received us, we were welcomed on shore by a man
+called _Ducoo_, and who represented himself as agent and confidential
+friend of the prince of Rabba; but this surprise was not a little
+increased on learning that a party of forty or fifty armed Falátah
+soldiers were also in the town. Ducoo, who is a Bornouese, treated us
+with the courtly politeness of a Frenchman, and was equally lavish in
+his compliments and his offers of service; he walked with us to the
+chief of the town, to whom he took the liberty of introducing us, almost
+before he himself knew who or what we were; went himself and procured
+excellent lodgings for us, returned and sat down in our company to tell
+us some droll stories, and impart to us in confidence some very
+disagreeable news; then hastily rose up, went out, and came back again
+with a sheep and other provisions, which he had obtained by compulsion
+from the chief, and finally remained with us till long after the moon
+had risen, when he left us to our repose. A man of such excessive
+volubility we never recollect to have met with; but at the same time he
+seems to be a most useful fellow.
+
+This _Lever_, then, after all, does not belong to the king of Wowow,
+though it stands on his dominions, nor has that monarch a single subject
+here, or a solitary canoe, so that we are as far from getting one as
+ever we were, and with the loss of our horses to boot. We have been
+cajoled and out-manœuvred very prettily by those fellows of Boossà and
+its adjoining state, whom we falsely conceived to be our dearest and
+best black friends. They have played with us as if we were great dolls;
+we have been driven about like shuttlecocks; we have been to them first
+a gazing-stock, and are now no doubt their laughing-stock, perhaps their
+mockery; we have been their admiration—their buffoons—their wonder and
+their scorn—a byword and a jest. Else why this double-dealing, this
+deceit, this chicanery, these hollow professions? Why did they entrap us
+in this manner? Why have they led us about as though we had been blind,
+only to place us in the very lap of what _they_ imagine to be danger?
+For can it be possible that the monarchs of Wowow and Boossà were
+ignorant of the state of things here, which is in their own immediate
+neighbourhood, and which have continued the same essentially for these
+three years? Surely they have knowingly deceived us.
+
+As soon as we were convinced that no canoe could be had in this place,
+as we have all along been led to expect, we conceived it prudent, under
+existing circumstances, to detain the two canoes which were lent us this
+morning by the chief of Patàshie; one of them is tolerably large, and
+nearly new, but the other is of much smaller dimensions. However we are
+well aware that the king of Wowow has not yet paid for them, and we are
+afraid that he never will; and it grieves and saddens us beyond
+expression to do this thing; for the island ruler is a simple, kind-
+hearted, and good, very good old man. But what can we do? _We_ have not
+the means of purchasing his canoes, for the king of Wowow has deprived
+us of them; our resources are nearly exhausted, and how should we be
+able to prosecute our journey? The Patàshie canoemen stoutly resisted
+our claims, as it is natural to suppose that they would. For our own
+parts we were actually ashamed to look them in the face; but our busy,
+restless friend, _Ducoo_, the priest, soon silenced their remarks by
+threatening to cut off the head of him who should presume from that time
+to set foot in either of the canoes. To give his menace the greater
+weight, he stationed two of his men, to guard the forbidden boats till
+the sun went down with drawn swords, and during the greater part of the
+night another of his men paraded up and down the banks of the river near
+the spot as a watch, and this man was continually playing upon a large
+drum.
+
+We are furnished with four messengers, besides him from Nouffie, one of
+whom is from Boossà, and the other three from Wowow. The office of these
+men is to see that everything promised us by their respective sovereigns
+be executed in pursuance of their agreement; but no one can be more
+intimidated or alarmed than they. They have scarcely dared to open their
+lips for the purpose of speaking since our arrival; they look as silly
+as sheep, sneak about our lodgings, and hang down their heads like
+prisoners under sentence of death. They are of no service whatever to
+us, rather a disadvantage in fact, but yet their wages must be paid
+them.
+
+After the departure of Ducoo in the evening, the chief of the town came
+to pay his respects and to wish us good night. He related to us a
+pitiable account of the evils which he and his people had undergone, and
+were still enduring from the selfishness and rapacity of the Falátahs;
+‘and they never pay us a visit,’ said he, ‘but my spirits droop within
+me, and my heart becomes heavy and sorrowful, for these foreigners come
+only to plunder and lay waste.’ The appearance of things at the present
+time seems to confirm this assertion, for a number of Falátahs are here
+for no other reason; and the melancholy of the chief’s countenance was
+an eloquent illustration of the embittered state of his heart and
+feelings. Thermometer 78°, 89°, 93°, during the day.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XIV.
+
+State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs — The Travellers’ Canoes
+claimed — Interference of Ducoo — Detention of the Travellers — Their
+departure from Lever — The Town of Bajiebo — Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo
+— Departure from Bajiebo — Scenery of the River — Town of Leechee —
+Visit to the Chief — The Passage continued down the River — Madjie
+Island — Mount Kesa — Land on Belee Island — Messenger from Rabba —
+Arrival of Suliken Rouah, or the King of the Dark Water — Grand
+Procession of Canoes down the River — Arrival at Zagōzhi[5] Island — Its
+swampy nature.
+
+
+_Friday, October 1st._—This morning, to our infinite relief, the four
+messengers from Wowow and Boossà spoken of yesterday, were paid for
+having accompanied us hither, and in the forenoon they left the town in
+company to go to Wowow. The Patàshie canoemen also received their wages
+at the same time, and embarked in two canoes a few minutes afterwards,
+on their return homewards, so that there only remains with us at present
+one of the Nouffie messengers who joined us at Boossà.
+
+This town is called indiscriminately _Lever_ and _Layaba_, though the
+latter name seems most generally applied here. Its population is great,
+and though it is very extensive, it has been built and occupied a very
+few years only. Its inhabitants are all Nouffie people, and not long ago
+resided in a large village on the opposite side of the river; but on
+account of the civil wars which raged in their country, setting every
+man against his friend, and against his neighbour, when property was
+insecure, freedom threatened, and life in danger, they were driven to
+seek an asylum here, where they fancied themselves out of the influence
+of these evils, and beyond the reach of the Falátahs, of whom they have
+an unconquerable dread. Here accordingly they erected their dwellings,
+and cleared the adjacent ground for cultivation. However, the poor
+people were not left a great while to enjoy unmolested the security
+which they had been in quest of, and which they imagined they had found
+at Layaba, for three years ago their relentless enemies invaded their
+retreat, ransacked the town and destroyed their houses by fire.
+Fortunately for them the inhabitants had timely notice of the approach
+of these marauders, and succeeded in recrossing the river, just before
+their arrival, without the loss of a single man; nor could the Falátahs
+follow them there, because they had no canoes. But rather than have
+their property destroyed a second time, and rather than be liable to
+continual irruptions of their enemies, who would abuse their women and
+enslave themselves, after their return hither the people of Layaba
+consented to pay a certain tribute to the prince of the Falátahs at
+Rabba, independent of a kind of ground-rent or acknowledgment, which is
+paid to the owner of the soil; so that a double duty is by this means
+exacted from them. Nor is this all: for parties of Falátahs, which are
+without employment at home, are generally prowling about the country,
+and levying contributions on those villages which are too feeble to
+resist their claims.
+
+Such is the case here at this moment; the Falátahs entered the town on
+Wednesday to take from its peaceful inhabitants whatever they thought
+proper. These men are all extremely well-dressed, and are armed with
+large swords, which are carried about their persons wherever they go. It
+is likely enough that, in this town, their object, for the present at
+least, will be defeated, for it is affirmed that they are in terrible
+apprehension of us, understanding that we should interfere in their
+unjustifiable proceedings; and appearances seem to confirm this
+assertion.
+
+This afternoon their party was assembled together by beat of drum, and
+they crossed the river in a hurry almost immediately after. Without
+asking our permission, or giving the slightest intimation of their
+intentions to either of us, they launched and took away the Patàshie
+canoe, which we call ours, and filled it with their people, which some
+one observing, he came running in haste to our hut, and informed us that
+the Falátahs had stolen our largest canoe, and were taking it away.
+Unacquainted then with their true motives for this action, we were
+filled with apprehension, and believing the story which had been told
+us, my brother instantly repaired to the water-side, where he observed,
+sure enough, our canoe filled with Falàtahs, who were waiting the signal
+for starting. He was agitated at the insolence of the fellows, and
+ordered them to get out of the canoe immediately, or take the
+consequences. They were about to obey his commands, when our officious
+friend, Ducoo, the priest, stepped forward, put his hand upon his
+shoulder, and with his usual volubility, desired him to be cool, and he
+would tell him all. He then informed him that he had himself taken the
+liberty of launching the canoe for the use of his friends, made an
+apology for not asking permission, and said, that, after the Falátahs
+had crossed over on the other side, it should be brought back to us
+again. This satisfied my brother, and he left them, though he knew he
+had been telling a falsehood, for it was certainly his intention to send
+away the canoe, so that we should never have the use of it; but as Ducoo
+was to remain at Layaba a little longer, we had determined to keep him
+in ‘durance vile,’ till another, through his means, should be got for
+us.
+
+In the mean time I had also repaired to the water-side with a pistol,
+which so terrified the Falátahs, that those who were on shore jumped
+hastily into another canoe, and all of them stole away as fast as they
+could, in great trepidation, for they fancied that their end was come.
+The priest subsequently remarked, that since our arrival, they had been
+greatly alarmed on account of our presence, and that he had been unable
+to suppress their fears. Thinking to pay us a compliment, he said we
+were stronger and better looking than any chief in the whole country,
+with the exception of the sultan of Bornou. He is himself a tall
+handsome fellow, and was chuckling at his own ingenuity, but we took
+little notice of him, and gave him not so much as a needle for his
+remark. This same individual has begun to show himself in his true
+colours; in the morning he began begging with much importunity, not only
+for himself, but for others, nor would he be quieted until we had
+satisfied his covetousness; and he then laid claim to one of our canoes,
+which he had the impudence to offer us for sale, and entreated that we
+would purchase of him! Surely the man cannot be in earnest. This is
+impudence with a vengeance!
+
+Another small party of Falátahs entered Layaba this afternoon. An hour
+or two since, one of them attempted to take away a bow and arrows from
+an inhabitant of the town, who disputed his right to do so; but the
+Falátah enforced his demand by cutting him across the right shoulder
+with his sword. The wounded man saw the blood and wept, and ran away to
+make a complaint to his chief, who hearkened to his tale and pitied him.
+After a good deal of trouble, he caused the bow and arrows to be given
+back to their rightful owner, but he could do no more; he dared not
+punish the assailant for his crime, and he was suffered to boast of it
+at large. How different are these people from the peaceful and happy
+Falátahs in Yarriba and other countries, who spend their time solely in
+pastoral occupations and pursuits! Thermometer 76°, 85°, 87°, during the
+day.
+
+_Saturday, October 2d._—The chief sent us another fine sheep to-day, and
+a quantity of dressed provisions swimming in palm oil. He was induced to
+make us this present from Ducoo’s insinuations, who, no doubt, has his
+own private ends in view. The priest boasts an acquaintance with the
+late unfortunate Major Laing, and affirms that he was near the spot at
+the time of that gentleman’s death. He can also relate the whole of the
+circumstances attending the melancholy fate of Mr. Park and his
+associates. But this man is an eternal talker, and therefore we receive
+all his communications with extreme suspicion.
+
+In the afternoon a small party of men arrived here in a canoe from the
+chief of the island of _Teàh_, with a message to us, purporting that the
+canoes which we had, to his infinite surprise, detained at Layaba, did
+not belong, as we imagined, to his friend the Chief of Patáshie, but
+were his own property; and as he did not acknowledge the authority of
+Wowow, but had ever been subject to the King of Nouffie, he considered
+that we could have no right whatever to the canoes in question, and
+therefore he would entreat us to return them by the hands of his
+messengers. He had lent them, because he was willing to oblige us and
+please his neighbour; but he did not conceive or think it possible, that
+we could make so ungrateful and unkind a return for his hospitality, and
+the respect and attention which it had been his pride and pleasure to
+show us. For our own parts, we could not forbear acknowledging the truth
+and justice of the observations of the Teàh chieftain, and blaming
+ourselves for the step we had taken. We therefore expressed our deep and
+very sincere regret at the measure which we had, from a combination of
+circumstances, been compelled to adopt; yet we assured the chief
+messenger, a quiet, respectable man, that it was not altogether our own
+fault, (for indeed it was not,) as the Patáshie canoemen well knew, for
+the men of Wowow had forbidden them to take back the boats, promising
+that their sovereign would pay for them, and the Falátah agent had
+prevented them from doing so. We said further, that whatever might be
+the consequence, we had not the slightest objection for the canoes to be
+restored to their rightful owner; and provided the men from Teàh could
+obtain the consent of the priest to take them away, they were at liberty
+to do so whenever they might think proper. But this they were by no
+means disposed to do, for they both feared and hated him; and therefore
+they bribed the Nouffie messenger with a large sum of money to assist
+them in their project, and purposed taking away both canoes in the
+night-season by stealth. However, their intentions were frustrated by
+the watchful vigilance of the priest, who had mistrusted them long
+before they were made known to us; and when he had actually detected
+their plans, he ordered the canoes to be pulled up on shore, two hundred
+yards at least from the water’s edge, and observed with vehemence, that
+after what he had done, should they be launched again into the water and
+taken away, he would instantly tie a rope round the necks of the chief
+of the town, and the Nouffie messenger that had accepted the bribe, and
+in that humiliating state, they should be driven like beasts to their
+sovereign, the Magīa.
+
+In the evening, the inhabitants of the town assembled outside our house
+to amuse themselves by dancing and singing in the moonlight; for,
+notwithstanding all their misfortunes and oppressions, they never
+refrain from indulging with all their hearts in these sprightly and
+thoughtless entertainments. Every dancer held in each hand a cow’s tail;
+they were all dressed grotesquely, and a great quantity of strings of
+cowries encircled their legs and bodies, which made a loud rattling
+noise by the violence and celerity of their movements. They sang as they
+danced, and excited, by the oddity of their gestures, loud clappings of
+applause, and bursts of laughter from all the bystanders. The spectacle
+was exceedingly ludicrous; we have rarely witnessed so much jocularity
+and thoughtless gaiety; and we have seldom laughed so much at any native
+exhibition. Though the performers panted from want of breath with their
+exertions, they yet continued their darling exercises, as is usual with
+them, till long after midnight.
+
+Like many of their countrymen, and like the natives of Yarriba, the
+inhabitants of Layaba appear to bestow scarcely a moment’s reflection
+either on public misery or individual distress—upon their own
+misfortunes or the calamities of their neighbours. Nature has moulded
+their minds to enjoy the life they lead; their grief, if they grieve at
+all, is but for a moment; sorrow comes over them and vanishes like the
+lightning’s flash; they weep, and, in the same breath, their spirits
+regain their elasticity and cheerfulness; they may well be said to drink
+of the waters of Lethe whenever they please. As long as they have food
+to eat, and health to enjoy their frivolous pastimes, they seem
+contented, happy, and full of life. They think of little else.—
+
+
+ ‘Thought would destroy their paradise.’
+
+
+Thermometer 77°, 88°, 90°, during the day.
+
+_Sunday, Oct. 3d._—We were desired yesterday to get our things packed
+up, and ourselves prepared, for that this morning we should quit the
+island to proceed on our journey. In pursuance of this arrangement we
+had got all our luggage in readiness, and only waited the coming of the
+chief to take our departure, when, to our great regret, one of his
+messengers entered our hut to apprize us that we should be unable to go
+away till to-morrow, his master having been dissuaded from his original
+purpose by the officious, bustling priest, our friend and enemy. We
+submitted to the disappointment as patiently and silently as we could;
+and in the evening we obtained a solemn promise, that whatever might be
+the consequence, no one should divert him from the resolution he had
+formed of detaining us no longer than to-day; and that early to-morrow
+morning we should certainly depart. Thermometer 76°, 89°, 88°, during
+the day.
+
+_Monday, Oct. 4th._—Our surprise and displeasure may be guessed, when,
+after our goods had been removed from our hut into the yard outside, we
+were informed that we should be compelled to abide in the town yet
+another day, notwithstanding all that the chief had told us yesterday.
+Our patience was now completely exhausted; and we were in great anger,
+for it is disheartening to be always deceived and trifled with by such
+scoundrels. Repairing instantly to a hut, wherein we knew the chief
+passed most of his time, we discovered him sitting on the ground in
+company with the artful Ducoo and our Nouffie messenger, and engaged in
+a very high dispute with both of them. Our unexpected and abrupt
+intrusion, and angry looks, cut short their wrangling; and we spoke with
+much emphasis of the shameful manner in which we had been treated, and
+expressed our determination of leaving Layaba presently, in defiance of
+them and all their power. With the most insolent effrontery in the
+world, the priest smiled at us, and replied, that we were entirely in
+his power—that we should do as _he_ liked, and quit the town whenever
+_he_ thought proper. Such language as this we thought was rather too
+bold; we pretended to be in a violent passion, and quickly undeceived
+him in this point, threatening, that if either he, or any of his men,
+should presume to interfere with us in our intentions or proceedings, or
+attempt to hinder us from getting away from the town, we should feel no
+more hesitation or reluctance in shooting him than if he had been a
+partridge or a Guinea-hen! The priest, who had never before seen
+anything in us but mildness, was intimidated at the determined and
+resolute behaviour we had found it necessary to adopt: he was crest-
+fallen in a moment, and, from being one of the most boisterous and
+consequential fellows in the world, became quite passive; yet his
+presence of mind did not forsake him: he stammered out a kind of
+apology, attempted to soothe us by soft language and submission, in
+which he found little difficulty, and did all in his power to effect a
+reconciliation. Having settled this business, we went out, and
+assembling our men, attempted to draw our canoe to the river side, but
+the ground was even, and the boat so long and heavy, that
+notwithstanding all our exertions we could move her only a few inches
+towards the river. The people were ashamed of themselves to see us
+labouring so hard, and to so little purpose; and the priest, likewise,
+observing us, was convinced that we were in earnest: therefore,
+whispering a few words in the ear of the chief, they both came down to
+the spot where we were toiling at the canoe, followed by a number of
+men; these, with the priest at their head, took the work out of our
+hands, and in less than two minutes the boat was floating on the water.
+Our luggage was then conveyed into the two canoes, and shortly
+afterwards we were supplied with three men to paddle them with the
+assistance of our own. Here we took our farewell of the chief and the
+priest, the latter begging us very anxiously to speak well of him to his
+sovereign at Rabba.
+
+It was not till after we were all in the canoes, and ready to push off,
+that those on shore discovered them to be overladen, and recommended us
+to hire one, of immense size, which was lying alongside. Without
+stopping to make them any reply, or listen to any further nonsense, we
+desired our own men to push the boats out into the middle of the
+current, which they did very promptly, and the town of Layaba, with its
+chief, and inhabitants, was speedily out of sight, and soon forgotten.
+This was about nine o’clock in the morning, so that, after all, we had
+lost but little time in getting away.
+
+The banks of the river near Lever are high, being, according to our
+estimation, about forty feet above the river, and steep to the water-
+side. The river itself appeared deep, and free from rocks of any kind;
+its direction nearly south. We ran down the stream very pleasantly for
+twelve or fourteen miles, the Niger, during the whole of the distance,
+rolling grandly along—a noble river, neither obstructed by islands, nor
+deformed with rocks and stones. Its width varied from one to three
+miles; the country on each side was very flat, and a few mean, dirty-
+looking villages were scattered on the water’s edge. We then came to two
+small islands; the land appeared more elevated, and in some few places
+it rose in gentle hills. We observed three remarkable and lofty hills on
+the eastern side, which rose very abruptly from the plain, and were
+separated from each other only by a few yards of ground. Both banks of
+the river were overhung with large shady trees, between which we could
+perceive the land behind to be open and well-cultivated; and, if we may
+be allowed to form an opinion from the number of towns and villages
+which were scattered over the country, we should conceive it to be
+thickly inhabited also.
+
+At one o’clock, P.M., we landed at a considerably large and spacious
+town, called _Bajiebo_, which is inhabited by Nouffie people, though it
+is situated on the Yarriba or western side of the river. For dirt,
+bustle, and nastiness of all kinds, this place, we think, can scarcely
+be exceeded. For two hours after our arrival we were obliged to wait in
+a close and diminutive hut, till a more convenient and becoming
+habitation could be procured for our reception, and the pleasure of the
+chief with regard to us should be known. Here we were visited by a
+number of the inhabitants, consisting both of Falàtahs and _Noufanchie_
+(Nouffie people). Among the former was a sagacious and intelligent old
+man, who has travelled a long, long way on the Niger, even beyond
+Timbuctoo; and he states, that that town is several miles from the banks
+of the river. We were sadly incommoded by these visitors, who scarcely
+allowed us to move or breathe; which, joined to the heat of the weather
+and the insufferable stench, rendered our situation truly comfortless
+and distressing.
+
+We were at length removed from this horrible hole, and conducted to a
+hut in the heart of the town, in which wood fires had been burning the
+whole of the day, so that the wall was almost as warm as the sides of a
+heated oven, insomuch that it could hardly be endured. Yet, to render it
+more unpleasant still, a large, closely-woven mat was placed before the
+door-way, in order to prevent a thousand eyes from staring in upon us;
+this excluded every breath of air. Our feelings, during the whole of the
+night, were more distressing than can be conceived: we were almost
+suffocated with the closeness and intense heat of the room; and dreamt
+that we were being baked alive in an oven. It appears that this town is
+governed by two chiefs, separate and distinct from each other, one of
+whom is a Nouffie man, and the other a Falàtah; for in the afternoon,
+each of these individuals sent us a bowl of rice as a present.
+
+Bajiebo is a flourishing and important trading town although not walled,
+and one of the largest and most populous that we have yet seen. A
+considerable traffic is carried on by its inhabitants with their
+countrymen on the opposite side of the river, for which purpose they
+have a great number of canoes of large dimensions, which are continually
+employed every day in crossing from side to side. Their huts are erected
+so close to each other, and with so little regard to comfort and a free
+circulation of air, that there is scarcely a foot-path in the town wide
+enough for more than one man to walk on at a time: and not having the
+advantage of shady trees, the heat of the town is excessive and
+distressing. Its uncleanness, filth, and extreme nastiness have already
+been alluded to; and the odour emitted from the dirty streets is
+offensive, and almost insupportable. The people formerly inhabited a
+town on the opposite bank of the Niger, but as was the case with those
+of Layaba, they were induced, or rather compelled to settle here, on
+account of the commotions occasioned by the civil wars, and like them,
+too, they have been found out by their greatest enemies.
+
+[Illustration: _Nouffie Canoe_]
+
+The power of the Falàtahs here is evidently very great. One of their
+number is styled chief, and has more authority and influence than the
+native Ruler. We have been obliged to make a present to each of these
+individuals, and other high and mighty personages were likewise desirous
+of obtaining a similar favour at our hands, but we made light of their
+conversation and would not understand their enigmas.
+
+We have seen to-day several large canoes, the bottom of which is made of
+a single tree and built up with planks to a considerable height. In many
+of them sheds, or houses as they are called, have been erected, which
+are thatched with straw, and in which fires are kindled, food prepared,
+and people sleep, and indeed live altogether. The roof is circular, and
+formed in much the same manner as the upper part of a covered waggon in
+England. These sheds are of the most essential service to the natives,
+as, with their assistance, merchants are enabled to travel with some
+degree of comfort, with their wives and household, several days’ journey
+up and down the Niger, without being under the necessity of landing,
+except to purchase provisions, or whenever they feel inclined to do so.
+As the people have nothing that equals or answers to pitch, hemp, or
+tar, they use iron staples for the purpose of repairing it and keeping
+the planks together when a canoe becomes leaky, or any part of it, as it
+frequently happens, is split by exposure to the rays of the sun. We have
+seen an old canoe, which had undergone repairs several times, with no
+less than from eight to ten thousand of these staples driven into her
+sides and bottom.
+
+Our course to-day has been about S.b.E. The thermometer has been at 70°,
+90° and 95°.
+
+_Tuesday, October 5th._—Before sunrise this morning, our luggage was
+removed to the beach, and between six and seven o’clock we were once
+more upon the water. Just below the town of _Bajiebo_ the Niger spreads
+itself into two noble branches, of nearly equal width, formed by an
+island. We preferred journeying on the eastern branch, but for no
+particular reason. The country beyond the banks was very fine. The
+island in the middle of the river, is small, but verdant, woody, and
+handsome; and we passed by the side of it in a very few minutes, with
+considerable velocity. It was then that both banks presented the most
+delightful appearance. They were embellished with mighty trees and
+elegant shrubs, which were clad in thick and luxuriant foliage, some of
+lively green, and others of darker hues; and little birds were singing
+merrily among their branches. Magnificent festoons of creeping plants,
+always green, hung from the tops of the tallest trees, and drooping to
+the water’s edge, formed immense natural grottoes, pleasing and grateful
+to the eye, and seemed to be fit abodes for the Naiades of the river!
+Yet with all its allurements there is something wanting in an African
+scene to render it comparable in interest and beauty to an English
+landscape.
+
+
+ ‘By secret charms our native land attracts.’
+
+
+There is nothing here half so attractive or inspiring. It is seldom,
+very seldom, that the morn is ushered in by the ‘song of earliest
+birds;’ which is so eminently enchanting at home, and which induces so
+much happiness and cheerfulness, benevolence and joy. Here there are no
+verdant fields, nor hedges, adorned with the jessamine, the daisy, the
+primrose, the blue-bottle, or the violet, and the hundred other pretty
+wild flowers, which please the sight, and exhale in spring-time or
+summer the most grateful and delicious fragrance. No flowers here
+
+
+ ‘Waste their sweetness in the desert air,’
+
+
+for not a solitary one is any where to be seen. Besides, generally
+speaking, a loneliness, a solemnity, a death-like silence pervades the
+noblest and most magnificent prospects, which has a tendency to fill the
+mind with associations of sadness, and reflections of melancholy, very
+opposite to the silent cheerfulness, and that internal springing joy
+which we feel on contemplating those goodly and charming landscapes,
+which are the pride, the beauty, and the ornament of England. To look at
+the cleanliness of our cottages, and the tidiness of their occupants is
+pleasant; but when the dirty mud huts of the natives of this part of the
+world, with the people themselves, do appear, in our opinion, they
+banish every favourable impression, and destroy the effect of all.
+
+In the course of an hour after leaving Bajiebo, we passed by two towns
+of considerable extent, and a hill was observed right a-head of us,
+covered with trees, one of which was of such singular appearance, that
+it might easily be mistaken at a short distance for a tall pole, with a
+flag unfurled, and waving at the top of it.
+
+At a little before eight in the morning, we saw, and passed along at the
+base of a high pile of loose granite rocks, large and dark-coloured,
+which are on the Nouffie or eastern side of the river; and almost close
+to them and on the edge of the water is a small town. In about a half-
+hour afterwards we arrived at an extensive town, situated on the same
+side, and called _Leechee_, which is inhabited by Noufanchie, and said
+to be a place of considerable rank and consequence. Here we landed by
+express desire, and finding an empty grass hut near the spot, we entered
+and took possession of it till such time as the chief should be made
+acquainted with our arrival. Here also our canoe-men left us and
+returned to Bajiebo, where we had hired them.
+
+We were not suffered to wait long, but in a few minutes received an
+invitation from the chief to come and see him; and having walked through
+a good part of the town, we at length approached his residence, and were
+introduced without ceremony or hindrance into a large and lofty hut,
+where we discovered the chief sitting on a platform of mud, in great
+state, with about forty natives and Falàtahs in earnest conversation on
+each side of him. He received us with great civility and many
+demonstrations of gladness, and desired us to draw near his person, that
+he might have a better opportunity of looking at and talking to us.
+However he appeared unwilling for us to quit _Leechee_ till to-morrow,
+and pressed us strongly to remain with him for the day, which, however,
+not all his solicitations and importunities could induce us to accede
+to. A Falàtah then commenced a long and pithy harangue, in which he
+endeavoured to prejudice the chief and those that were with him against
+us, and to fill their minds with alarm and apprehension, on account of
+our malevolence, and the extraordinary power which he said we possessed;
+but his eloquence was unavailing, for we had the consolation to hear one
+of his own companions and countrymen desire him to hold his tongue, and
+mind his own business, and consequently his remarks were soon forgotten.
+
+We had provided ourselves with a small present for the chief on our
+first setting out for his residence, but after what we had seen and
+heard, we fancied that it was too trifling, and feared that it would be
+returned as such by the chief, and that we should be exposed to abuse
+and ribaldry from those that were with him; therefore something was
+added to the gift before we presented it. We then took our leave of him
+and his people, and instantly made our way back to the water-side, where
+we waited in the grass hut, what appeared to us to be a long, long time,
+for the appearance of the canoemen with whom the chief had promised to
+supply us. In this interval, the governor sent us a pot of honey, a
+couple of fine lemons, and a few limes. After a considerable delay, a
+man for each canoe could only be procured for us, so that two of our own
+people were obliged to supply the place of others as well as they could.
+
+The width of the Niger at Leechee is about three miles, and the
+inhabitants have plenty of canoes for the purpose of crossing the river,
+for fishing, and for other purposes. About half-past ten we got into our
+canoes, which we pushed off the shore, and proceeded at a good rate down
+the stream, along the side of a considerable island, which is within
+gun-shot of the town; and after passing a large open village, of
+respectable appearance, which is on the western bank, we put in at a
+small town, a few miles below, also on the Yarriba side of the river,
+where we were constrained to go in quest of other canoemen, because
+those from Leechee, though they had been with us only forty minutes, and
+had certainly not laboured very hard, had refused to proceed with us any
+further, nor could all our enticements induce them to forego this
+resolution. Here we were detained in our canoes and exposed to the sun
+for an hour and a half, in order to obtain fresh canoemen, the
+inhabitants of the town being absent in the fields.
+
+Immediately after leaving this town we passed another island, of goodly
+appearance, but we understand it is uninhabited. We then came in sight
+of a double range of rocky hills, one of which is close to the water,
+and both running from north-east to nearly due south. At one P.M. we
+were again obliged to put in and land at a small village, which is
+situated on an island, for an exchange of canoemen, for, like those from
+Leechee, these were unwilling to go a great way from their homes. In an
+hour’s time a number of the islanders came down to us, and paddled us to
+the opposite side of the river, and from thence along the base of the
+hills already alluded to. The appearance of these hills is wild and
+gloomy, though highly romantic. Trees of hungry growth and stunted
+shrubs, whose foliage seemed for the most part dull and withering, shoot
+out of the hollows and interstices, and overhang immense precipices,
+whose jagged summits they partly conceal. Indeed, these hills look
+dismal and lonesome in the extreme, and seem to be visited only by wild
+beasts and birds of prey, or by the shadow of a passing cloud, which
+serves to increase, if possible, their dreariness and gloom. On the top
+of one of them is a huge and singular block of white stone, which, at a
+certain distance, greatly resembles an ancient fortification. We arrived
+at the end of our journey, and the termination of the nearer range of
+hills, between four and five o’clock in the afternoon, when we landed at
+a fishing-town on a small island, which is called _Madjie_, and belongs
+to the Noufanchie. Here we were received with cheerfulness by the chief,
+who accommodated us with a roomy hut, sent us a quantity of dressed
+provisions, and otherwise treated us in the most hospitable manner. The
+banks of the river that we have passed to-day are high, and well
+cultivated. The direction of the river rather to the eastward of south,
+and the distance from this island to Bajiebo about thirty miles. The
+thermometer has been at 78°, 92°, 94°, during the day.
+
+_Wednesday, Oct. 6th._—About seven o’clock in the morning we departed
+from the island of Madjie, where we had slept, and pursued our journey
+down the river, which for a short distance takes a turn to the east, by
+the side of another range of hills, and afterwards flows for a number of
+miles a little to the southward of east. Near the island of Madjie, the
+Niger branches into three streams, and we were recommended to follow the
+most easterly, because the other two were neither considered so deep nor
+so free from danger.
+
+On leaving the island we journeyed very rapidly down the current for a
+few minutes, when, having passed another, we came suddenly in sight of
+an elevated rock, which is called _Mount Kesa_ by the natives, and
+almost at the same instant we found ourselves abreast of it. It forms a
+small island, and is probably not less than three hundred feet in
+height, which renders it a conspicuous and remarkable object. It is
+excessively steep, and rising out of the river as it does, its
+appearance is irresistibly imposing and majestic beyond expression. Its
+base is fringed by venerable trees, and less magnificent vegetation,
+which also strives to spring forth from its barren and almost naked
+sides. The height of Mount Kesa, its solitary position, and the
+peculiarity of its form, distinguish it from every other, and render it
+an object of more than common interest. It is greatly venerated by the
+natives of this part of the country, and, as may readily be imagined,
+favours the superstitious notions which are attached to it by a simple
+and credulous people, who, like the vulgar of Europe, are fond of the
+marvellous. The story attached to Mount Kesa is of a very romantic
+nature. The natives believe that a benevolent genius makes the mountain
+his favourite and continual abode, and dispenses around him a benign and
+heavenly influence. Here the misfortunes of the unhappy are alleviated,
+the wants of the needy supplied, and the lamentations of the mourner
+turned to joy: sin, sorrow, and suffering are unknown; solemnity gives
+place to merriment, and the solicitude of futurity to present enjoyment
+and thoughtless jocularity. But more especially, say the natives, the
+weary traveller here finds a refuge from the storm, and a rest from his
+toils; here he reposes in the delights of security, and revels in the
+comforts of ease. However, to obtain all this, he makes known his wants
+and desires to the spirit of the mountain by supplication and prayer,
+when they are instantly answered; he receives the most delicate and
+excellent food from invisible hands, and when sufficiently invigorated
+by refreshment, he is at liberty either to continue his journey or
+remain awhile to participate in the blessings of the mountain. Such is
+the story we received from these superstitious people of this celebrated
+mount. A little to the northward of it is a naked rock, which rises only
+a few yards above the surface of the water; but from its insignificance
+it is unworthy of particular description.
+
+[Illustration: _Mount Kesey_]
+
+A canoe, in which was a Mahomedan priest, with his women and train, kept
+company with us down the river, and Rabba was the place of its
+destination. A very spirited competition was for some time maintained
+between his canoemen and ours, in regard to the velocity with which they
+could impel their respective boats; but that of the priest was three
+times larger and heavier than ours, and he was at length constrained to
+forego the contest, the odds being so very much against him. This
+created a loud laugh and a little cheering on our side, and much
+merriment on both. All the canoes then proceeded abreast of each other,
+and the whole of the party were on the best possible terms. The priest’s
+wives strove to entertain us to the best of their ability with specimens
+of their music. One of them played on a four-stringed guitar, and her
+companions accompanied the instrument with their voices; and though the
+noise was not very melodious, still it was more agreeable to us than
+silence; indeed, we were highly pleased with the attempt of these sooty
+ladies, for how rude soever the performance may be, music has oftentimes
+a pleasant and soothing influence.
+
+At nine in the morning we landed near a small town to procure a fresh
+supply of canoemen, and we waited for them above an hour, without
+visiting the adjacent village. As soon as we had obtained them we
+journeyed along the eastern side of the river; and, at eleven A.M.,
+perceived the smoke of the far-famed Rabba ascending many miles before
+us. In another half-hour we drew near an island, called _Belee_, which
+is exceedingly low, flat, and swampy. Here we stopped at a large, but
+mean and dirty-looking town, which stands close to the water’s edge.
+
+We were shortly introduced to the chief, who is a great, rich, and
+important personage, if we may believe the representations of our
+messenger. He informed us, that Mohamed, the Magīa’s son, who had left
+us at Patàshie, had returned from his father, in pursuance of his
+agreement, but, instead of remaining at Rabba, as we expected, he had
+come over to Belee, and been waiting three days on the island, in
+expectation of our arrival. However, having heard in the earlier part of
+the morning that we were to have slept at Madjie last night, he
+instantly left Belee in a canoe, and proceeded up the river to meet us.
+For ourselves we had neither heard nor seen anything either of him or
+his canoe. The governor further said, you will be obliged to remain at
+Belee till Mohamed’s return to the island, for he has news of importance
+to communicate to you; to-morrow morning you will leave hence, and
+proceed to another island, which is further down the river, wherein it
+is arranged that you shall abide till your affairs be finally adjusted.
+There was some mystery about this, which was unexpected and not very
+gratifying.
+
+It was nearly evening before Mohamed returned to Belee, and he came to
+us in a dripping state, with an excuse that he had been upset in his
+canoe two or three times. After the first salutations were over, he
+informed us of his visit to his father, and its result. The Magīa had
+desired him to assure us of his ‘best wishes in our welfare, and his
+determination to protect, support, and encourage us, as far as he was
+able.’ Mohamed then drew our attention to a young man who had entered
+the hut with him, but whom we had not before observed, and introduced
+him as a messenger sent to us by the Falàtah prince of Rabba. This man
+said that his master, named Mallam Dendo, had commissioned him to
+acquaint us, that he heartily concurred with the king of Nouffie in the
+favourable opinions and sentiments which the latter entertained for us.
+With respect to our visiting Rabba, which he understood we were very
+much disinclined to do, he should not urge us; and rather imagined that
+we should be more comfortable and enjoy greater tranquillity on an
+island on the opposite side of the river, where he would recommend us to
+stop. The chief of Belee had previously made us acquainted with this
+arrangement. The Falàtah messenger concluded by observing that we should
+be visited on the morrow by the ‘_King of the Dark Water!_’ who would
+escort us to the island in question, of which he is governor.
+
+In the evening the chief of Belee made us a present of a quantity of
+goora nuts, a large pot of honey, a sheep, and dressed provisions in
+abundance, with a huge calabash of sour beer. He boasted that he was the
+king of Nouffie’s head slave, and a mighty man of valour; and artfully
+insinuated that he expected a present from us in proportion to his rank
+and eminence. But we have seen such numbers of kings, princes, and great
+men lately, that we are heartily disgusted with all who bear the
+epithet; they are so numerous, that they would be as difficult to count
+as the drops of rain in a heavy shower.
+
+The thermometer has been at 79°, 92°, and 94° during the day.
+
+The course of the river from Madjie to this island has been to the S.E.,
+the distance about twelve miles. The eastern or Nouffie bank of the
+river is moderately high, and overspread with low hills, and both banks
+are well cultivated.
+
+_Thursday, October 7th._—So early as five o’clock in the morning our
+canoes were loaded, and having breakfasted on a slice of yam, we were
+fully prepared to quit the island. But as it was not deemed either
+politic or proper to go away till the arrival of the great _King of the
+Dark Water_, who was hourly expected, and who might be inclined to
+construe our departure into contempt, we consented to await his coming.
+Though we have been exposed to a thousand nuisances, and all manner of
+inconveniences, and are pretty well reconciled to them all, yet rather
+than remain in a close black hut, full of men, whose garments are
+generally covered with vermin, and rarely, if ever, cleaned, and who
+make it a common practice to sit on the mat whereon we sleep; rather
+than do this, we stepped into our canoes, and having pushed off from the
+land, we waited the islander’s arrival under the branches of a large
+tree at a little distance from the town.
+
+Between nine and ten, A.M., we heard a number of men singing, and
+keeping time to the motion of many paddles, but we could see no one.
+However, in a very few minutes, a canoe, which was paddled by a few men
+only, came in sight, and we knew by this that the Water King was
+approaching. It was instantly followed by another, and much larger one,
+propelled by above twenty very fine young men, whose voices we had been
+listening to just before, and who were still continuing their song.
+Their music was slower, but very similar to that which may be heard on
+many parts of the western coast. The _King of the Dark Water_ was with
+them. As the canoe drew nearer we were not only surprised at its
+extraordinary length and uncommon neatness, but likewise at the unusual
+display of pomp and show which we observed in her. In the centre a mat
+awning was erected, which was variously decorated, and on the front of
+it hung a large piece of scarlet cloth, ornamented with bits of gold
+lace stitched on different parts of it. In the bow of the canoe were
+three or four little boys, of equal size, who were clad with neatness
+and propriety; and in the stern sat a number of comely-looking
+musicians, consisting of several drummers and a trumpeter, whilst the
+young men who had the management of the boat were not inferior to their
+companions either in decency of apparel or respectability of appearance.
+They all looked in fact extremely well.
+
+As soon as this canoe arrived at the landing-place, the ‘Water King’
+came out from beneath the awning, and, followed by the musicians and a
+suite of attendants, walked to the hut wherein all public matters are
+transacted, and whither, in a few minutes, we ourselves were desired to
+repair. The chief of the island, with his elders and the more
+respectable of the people, were seated, on our entrance, on each side of
+their important visitor, and my brother and I, as a mark of distinction,
+were invited to place ourselves in front of him. When the usual
+compliments had passed on both sides, he informed us, with much
+solemnity, of his rank and title; he then alluded to the cause of his
+coming, which, he said, was to do us honour, and repeated what had
+previously been told us by the king’s son. This being done, he presented
+us with a pot of excellent honey, and two thousand cowries in money,
+besides a large quantity of goora nuts, which are cultivated in the
+country, and which are held in so great esteem, that the opulent and
+powerful alone have the means of procuring them. Having nothing further
+to say or do, we shook hands with his sable majesty, whose name is
+Suliken Rouah, expressed our acknowledgments for his handsome present,
+and returned to our boats.
+
+The ‘King of the Dark Water’ is a fine-looking man, well stricken in
+years; his skin as black as a coal; his features are coarse but
+benevolent, and his stature advantageous and commanding. He was dressed
+in a full bornouse, or Arab cloak, of inferior blue cloth, underneath
+which was a variegated tobe made of figured satin, country cloth and
+crimson silk damask, all patched together; he likewise wore a cap of red
+cloth, Hàussa trowsers, and sandals of coloured leather. Two pretty
+little boys, about ten years of age and of equal size, and who acted in
+capacity of pages, followed him into the hut. Their clothing was neat
+and becoming, and their persons nicely clean; each of them was furnished
+with an ornamented cow’s tail, and they stood one on his right hand and
+the other on his left, to brush away flies and other insects from his
+person, and supply him with goora nuts and tobacco. The king was also
+accompanied by six of his wives, fine handsome jet-black girls, dressed
+in neat country caps edged with red silk. Native cloths, made of cotton
+and silk, were fastened round their waists, beneath which they wore a
+sort of short frock. The usual custom of staining their fingers and toe-
+nails with henna appears to be general among them; their wrists were
+ornamented with neat silver bracelets, and their necks with coral
+necklaces.
+
+To such a man as the ‘Water King,’ with such a suite and such a title,
+the greatest honour is expected to be paid, and we therefore showed our
+respect by saluting him with a discharge from two or three muskets; and
+by waiting patiently his return from the council-hut, wherein he stayed
+two whole hours, during which we were sitting in our canoes, exposed to
+a very hot sun, for we had removed them from under the tree by the side
+of his own.
+
+It was exactly mid-day when Suliken Rouah re-embarked in his princely
+canoe, and quitted the island of Belee. Determined for once to make an
+attempt at a more respectable appearance, for heretofore it had been
+extremely mean and homely, we hastily constructed an awning of our
+sheets. It was the first time we had made use of such a thing, though we
+are without umbrellas, and till then had nothing but slight straw hats
+to protect our heads from the sun. Above the awning we elevated a
+slender staff, on the top of which we fastened our national colours, the
+union flag, which was kindly given us by a gentleman on the coast, who
+was commandant of Anamaboo. When unfurled and waving in the wind, it
+looked extremely pretty, and it made our hearts glow with pride and
+enthusiasm, as we looked on this solitary little banner. We thought it
+would be of service to us also if we made as gay an appearance as the
+king and his followers; and accordingly I put on an old naval uniform
+coat which I had with me for state occasions, and my brother also
+dressed himself in as grotesque and gaudy a manner as our resources
+would afford. Our eight attendants also put on new white Mahomedan
+tobes, so that our canoe, with its white awning surmounted by the union
+flag, our canoemen in new dresses, and ourselves appearing as officers,
+contributed not a little to the effect of the whole scene. ‘The august
+King of the Dark Water,’ with his retinue in twenty canoes,
+condescendingly gave us the precedence, and ours was the first that
+moved off from land, and led the way down the river towards Rabba.
+
+For a little while we continued to take the lead, but the chief soon
+went before us, for two reasons: First, that he might have an
+opportunity of looking at us; and secondly, that we might have a fairer
+chance of seeing him in all his state, for which purpose he had placed
+himself outside his awning on an elevated and conspicuous seat. However
+he only wished to get a few yards before us, for his canoemen soon
+lifted their paddles out of the water, and the boat fell back to its
+former situation. This going before and falling behind was done
+repeatedly. The musicians in the large canoe performed merrily on their
+instruments, and about twenty persons now sung at intervals in
+recitative, keeping excellent time with their paddles.
+
+A brisk wind sprung up the river full in our faces, relieving us from
+the extreme heat of the weather, which was remarkably fine; the scene
+before us was very animating, and the whole of us were in high glee and
+spirits. Other canoes joined us; and never did the British flag lead so
+extraordinary a squadron. The ‘King of the Dark Water’ might be mistaken
+for a river god; and his wives now and then showing their pretty black
+faces from under the awning, cast many an arch look at us with their
+sparkling, jetty eyes. It was not long before our reverie was
+interrupted by a great noise from the adjacent land; and on turning we
+perceived the banks of an island, called _Zagōzhi_, which were lined
+with numbers of people, admiring our flag, and watching us very
+earnestly, by which we guessed that this was the place of our
+destination. The island is so uncommonly low, that the houses and trees
+appeared as if they were standing in the water, as indeed many of them
+actually were. Here we arrived, and landed between one and two P.M.,
+having enjoyed a pleasant excursion of eight or nine miles. Ours being
+the first canoe, before we landed on the island we waited for the king
+to precede us, and the moment he set his foot on shore, we fired a
+salute of four muskets and three pistols. Suliken Rouah was rather
+alarmed at this, and demanded whether we were going to make war on him.
+He was soon relieved from his fear, by being told it was an honour that
+we had been in the habit of paying to all the princes we had met in our
+travels; which he no sooner understood, than he expressed himself much
+gratified by our attention. Suliken Rouah went in person in quest of a
+dwelling-house, and led us to one of the best which the island affords;
+however, it is miserably bad; for, as the town is built on a marsh,
+every hut in it has the disadvantage, during the whole of the rainy
+season, of soft damp floors and uncomfortable roofs. Our own has
+positively pools of water springing up out of the ground, and on this we
+shall be obliged to sleep. The walls of the huts are built of mud from
+the river, strengthened and supported by wooden pillars and ribs of the
+same materials: however, these do not prevent them from cracking in a
+hundred different places; and large chinks, admitting wind and rain, may
+be observed in the wall of every hut. They all have, indeed, invariably,
+a very dirty and wretched appearance, though their inmates, generally
+speaking, are understood to be opulent, clean, and respectable. Having
+conducted us to our hut, the chief of the island shook hands very
+heartily with us, and assured us that we should want nothing. He soon
+provided us with doors of bamboo for our hut, and a number of mats to
+spread on the floor, which made it tolerably comfortable. In the
+evening, four large calabashes of stewed rice, with fowls and no less
+than ten gallons of _pitto_ or country beer were sent us. About seven in
+the evening, messengers arrived from Rabba, to inform us that they
+should come early in the morning for the presents we intended for the
+chief. They said that the king would not put us to the trouble of going
+to see him, as the town is full of Arabs, whose begging propensities
+would be very inconvenient to us. I was much pleased with this
+intelligence, knowing very well the character of these Arabs; and I sent
+word back that I was much obliged to him, and should be still more so if
+he would dispense with my going to the sansan or camp at a short
+distance from the town to visit the King of Nouffie.
+
+_Rabba_ is opposite Zagōzhi, and appears from hence, a distance of two
+miles, to be an immensely large, populous, and flourishing town. It is
+built on the slope of a gentle hill, and on a spot almost entirely bare
+of trees. The Niger, both yesterday and to-day, has flowed in a
+direction to the south of east.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER XV.
+
+Stay at Zagōzhi — Presents sent to the Chiefs of Rabba — An old but
+troublesome acquaintance — Presents from the Kings of Nouffie and Rabba
+to the Travellers — Importunities of the King’s messengers — An Arab
+merchant — Policy of the Falátah Chief, Mallam Dendo, in securing the
+possession of his conquests — Former Expedition of the Falátahs against
+Funda — Rabba market — The King of Rabba discontented with his present —
+Consternation of the Travellers — Park’s tobe sent to him — Joy of the
+King on receiving it — Permission to proceed — Treacherous conduct of
+the King of Nouffie — The King of Rabba’s answer — Conversation among
+the Hàussa merchants — Mallam Dendo the former King of Rabba — His
+character — Rabba market — Island of Zagōzhi — The islanders expert
+canoemen — Manufactures of Zagōzhi — Promise of a canoe.
+
+
+_Friday, October 8th._—Mallam Dendo, the cousin of Bello, we find is
+still living, but in a very old and feeble condition. He is besides
+nearly blind, and thinks he has not many more years to live. Being a
+cautious, peaceful old man, his chief concern is to establish his son as
+his successor, and fearing that there might be some dispute about it
+after his death, has already given up to him the reins of government.
+The usual form on these occasions will be observed, and is to take place
+on the first day of the new moon. The son is to ride through all the
+streets of the town on his father’s white horse, preceded by all the
+principal people of Rabba, attended by trumpeters, &c., and thus
+proclaimed king.
+
+Early in the morning, the messengers from the chiefs mentioned yesterday
+arrived, bringing with them two fine sheep and a great quantity of rice.
+They were accompanied by a messenger from the general, a Bornou man,
+with another sheep. We are obliged to accept of this latter much against
+our inclination, for it will cost us ten times its value, but it is a
+treat that we have not had since we left Yàoorie. It appears that we
+shall be required to give presents to nine persons before we shall get
+away from this place.
+
+Having prepared the presents, I collected the messengers and laid out
+before each of them those that were intended for their masters; they
+expressed themselves pleased with them, and assured us that their
+masters would be also. In order to make them some reward, and secure
+their good will, I gave something to each, and dismissed them. We also
+sent away Mohamed, his countryman and associate, the Nouffie guide, who
+had accompanied us hither all the way from Boossà. The presents we have
+made, consist of a handsome looking-glass, with a gilt frame, a pair of
+silver bracelets; a snuff-box, tobacco-pipe, knife, razor, two pair of
+scissors, four new shillings, and a number of books on natural history,
+with plates. Besides these, we sent the King of Nouffie a pocket
+compass, and the Prince of Rabba a camera obscura, desiring each of the
+messengers to inform their sovereigns that the latter articles were
+invaluable, but that owing to the length of our journey, and the few
+things which were left us in consequence, we were compelled to part with
+them—only, however, till such time as we should return to the country
+again, when we hoped they would be given back to us, for a handsome
+present which we should bring for the purpose. Mohamed and the Falàtah
+messenger promised to return to Zagōzhi in a couple of days; but the
+Nouffie guide, a surly, ill-favoured, and dissatisfied man, has no wish
+to see us again, and therefore he will remain at home. The old ‘King of
+the Dark Water,’ and after him several of his people paid us a visit to-
+day, bringing with them an enormous quantity of bits of meat and pounded
+yam, boiled or stewed in palm oil, and abundance of less delicate
+provisions; and strong beer sufficient for a regiment of soldiers! A
+Hàussa interpreter followed in his train, so that we had no difficulty
+in understanding each other; but those who subsequently visited our
+dwelling were not quite so fortunate, and we could not comprehend a
+single word which they uttered. Having brought their offering of
+provisions and beer in huge pots and calabashes, and laid it at our
+feet, they wished very much to enter into conversation with us, and were
+much confused and disconcerted at our ignorance of the Nouffie language,
+and our apparent dulness of comprehension; at first, they stared at us
+in vacant astonishment, then looked at each other very cunningly, and
+afterwards looked into our faces again. Finding at length that either we
+could not, or would not, understand their words and gestures, they burst
+into a loud laugh and went away, leaving their pots and calabashes
+behind them. These men were extremely well dressed, and respectable in
+their appearance.
+
+_Saturday, October 9th._—This morning we were visited by two young men,
+Arabs from Rabba, who had come, they said, purposely and solely to pay
+their respects; but in reality, the object of their coming was very
+different from this, as shortly afterwards appeared. On their entrance
+into the yard of our hut, one of them, a little, short, disagreeable-
+looking man, uttering a sudden exclamation of joy, sprang forward, and
+clasped me with violence to his breast, kissing my shoulder, hands,
+head, cheeks, and beard with much eagerness, agreeably to the custom of
+his countrymen on such occasions, and also of the Israelites, as well as
+many other eastern nations; and having done this, he next proceeded to
+embrace my brother in the same rough hasty manner, but his compliments
+were equally as unexpected as they were unpleasant. The Arab, as may be
+supposed, was very eager to claim acquaintance with me, and to bring to
+my memory certain scenes which had taken place on my former journey
+through Hàussa. Having in some degree recovered from my surprise at his
+salutation, on looking at him more attentively, I recognized in him the
+very same individual that had been employed by Captain Clapperton, whom
+he had abused and cheated, and who was subsequently engaged by myself as
+guide from Kano. He is the person also that decamped with Captain
+Pearce’s sword, and a large sum of money in cowries, when I sent him
+back to Kano for the tent-poles, which he had forgotten till after he
+had been several miles on his journey, and since which time I had not
+seen him till to-day. His appearance is somewhat uncouth and remarkable;
+his figure is awkward and uncommonly diminutive; he has a most
+forbidding and intolerable squint; his mouth is turned awry; and he has
+a huge and unnatural excrescence jutting out from his chin, which adds
+not a little to the deformity of his countenance and appearance.
+Therefore it was not very pleasant to be embraced, and almost hugged to
+death, by such a man as this. His companion is a pale, handsome, and
+agreeable youth, and is different from the other; in our presence his
+behaviour was decent, and his manners rather timorous and reserved; and
+when the villany of his associate was exposed, he felt more abashed of
+the two. My brother instantly accused the fellow of his former
+infidelity, and told him he was surprised that he could have the
+impudence to visit and salute him in the manner he had done, after what
+had transpired between them. Instead of expressing his sorrow and
+contrition, the Arab made light of his offence, and endeavoured to laugh
+off the impression of it altogether; and then in the most abject manner
+begged everything he saw with so much importunity and selfishness, that
+we were out of all temper with the scoundrel, and I turned him out of
+the hut in disgust. However, he could not believe it possible that we
+were in earnest with him, and waited outside the door a long time,
+anxiously expecting an invitation to come in again. ‘O, it must be all
+in sport,’ said he; but at last we threatened to shoot him if he did not
+go about his business, and being apprehensive that we should put our
+threats into execution, he ran off as fast as he could. Before his
+dismissal, we gave his companion a few needles, and he took his leave in
+peace. The fellow’s excuse for leaving me in the manner he did, was,
+that Al Hadjee Salah, the late Captain Clapperton’s agent, had persuaded
+him, saying that I was going to travel among Caffres who knew not Allah,
+and who would therefore murder him. He was frightened, he added; but it
+was easy to see that this was a mere excuse. His pretext for coming to
+us now, was, that Sceriffe Asman, who was going to his native country,
+Timbuctoo, had offered to convey letters for us, from whence they might
+be forwarded to Tripoli; and that he himself would call for them in the
+morning. This I hoped to prevent, by saying that we had neither letters
+to send, nor presents to give to Sceriffe, therefore we did not wish to
+see him.
+
+A great number of Arabs are at present residing in Rabba; they have come
+from various parts, and trade with the natives in red caps, trona, small
+looking-glasses of the most inferior description, red cloth, silk, &c.,
+which they bring chiefly from Fezzan. Among these Arabs is a famous
+Sheikh, who, we understand, will set out in a few days on a journey to
+Timbuctoo and other places.
+
+_Sunday, Oct. 10th._—Mohamed and the Falàtah messenger arrived at
+Zagōzhi in company this morning, in pursuance of their agreement. The
+former brought with him a fine sheep as a present from the Magīa, and
+Mallam Dendo sent a large pot of honey by the hands of the latter. Both
+princes, according to the account of their representatives, were
+mightily pleased with their respective presents, and expressed their
+acknowledgments in the warmest and most grateful terms; they repeated
+the encouraging promises which they had before held out with regard to
+our journey, and have commissioned the ‘King of the Dark Water,’ under
+certain circumstances, to supply us with a commodious canoe, as
+excellent as our hearts can desire; strongly recommending us to enter
+into arrangements with him, and deliver our two Patàshie canoes, which
+are comparatively small and of little value, into his keeping till our
+departure from the country. A man is also to accompany us as far as the
+sea, to be our guide and interpreter on the voyage. This intelligence
+has made us quite easy in mind, and filled us with hope and joy, for,
+previous to the arrival of these men, our hearts misgave us that
+everything would not prosper well. They seem to have forgotten the
+presents we had bestowed on them as well as their masters, for they have
+been very pressing to-day in their solicitations for money and needles,
+so that I have gone so far as to cut my coat in pieces for them to make
+caps of the cloth. Mohamed, in particular, has been incessantly annoying
+us in this manner, and brought a fellow with him from Rabba, who, he
+wished us to believe, was the Magīa’s eldest son, merely for the purpose
+of exacting a present from us proportionate to his rank; but we saw
+through his deceit in time to prevent our being taken in by him, and
+crushed it in its infancy.
+
+It is provoking to be continually tormented so, and after all to receive
+nothing for our pains and the sacrifices we make but discontent, black
+looks, and grumbling without end. These fellows, instead of paying their
+respects in the first place to the chief of the island, had come to us
+directly from the landing-place; and, because they had something of
+consequence to communicate to him, in which we ourselves were intimately
+concerned, after having remained in our company long enough to ascertain
+that they could extort nothing further from us, Mohamed who had come
+with them, declared that they were in a hurry to be gone, to make amends
+for their delay, and therefore boldly demanded two thousand cowries ‘to
+open,’ as he expressed it, or ‘clean out the mouth of the “Water King!”’
+or else, he declared, no business whatever could be transacted with him;
+it was the only method, he added gravely, with which he was acquainted,
+of enticing him to speak on any subject of importance. We knew all the
+time that the fellow was endeavouring to deceive us; but seeing how much
+our success depended on keeping all these sort of gentlemen in good
+humour, and that our interest lay in being imposed on now and then, we
+complied with his request. Considering, after what had passed, that
+Mohamed and his colleagues might embezzle this sum, which in fact they
+strove to do, we sent Paskoe along with them to the chief’s house. Both
+he and his people continue to show us every hospitality, and to treat us
+with all manner of respect and civility.
+
+_Monday, Oct. 11th._—_Ali_, the Arab, who, it will be recollected,
+introduced himself to our notice in Yàoorie, paid us a visit to-day from
+Rabba, where he has been residing some time past. We hardly knew him
+again at first, on account of his altered countenance, and the languid
+and emaciated appearance of his person, which, he tells us, has been the
+effect of sickness and anxiety, occasioned by an attack of the Guinea-
+worm, which had confined him within doors on his mat for three weeks.
+Instead of proceeding to Alorie in Yarriba, which it was his intention
+of doing, he had changed his mind suddenly, and had come to Rabba, where
+he was at first courteously received and entertained. The horses which
+he had in his possession belonged to the good old Gadado of Soccatoo, by
+whom he was commissioned to sell them to the highest bidder. These
+animals were exceedingly large, handsome, and spirited, so much so
+indeed, that the prince of the Falàtahs took a great fancy to them, and
+purchased them, at an extravagant price, very shortly after they had
+been first exhibited in public by Ali. But not having money sufficient
+at his disposal at the time, Mallam Dendo promised to give the value of
+the animals partly in cowries and partly in handsome tobes of native
+manufacture, which the seller agreed to receive as willingly. He has,
+however, been detained here ever since, and to the present time has been
+put off day after day with empty promises. Ali does not think that this
+procrastination proceeds from any dishonest feeling on the part of the
+prince of the Falàtahs, but that it is really from want of the means of
+paying him, owing to the expenses attending several warlike expeditions
+in which he has been recently engaged.
+
+Such, generally speaking, is the manner of trading in this country, a
+few years’ credit being thought very little of; and it is not unusual to
+meet with individuals who have been unable to obtain payment of debts
+for ten or a dozen years at least.
+
+We had a long chat with Ali, and gave him a few old things which were
+useless to us; but we soon found it necessary to send him away, as he
+began complaining very grievously of poverty and wretchedness.
+
+The Arab, in course of conversation, remarked, that it would be a good
+speculation to send some needles for sale at the Rabba market, which is
+extremely large and well attended; therefore, we took the hint, and sent
+Jowdie and Ibrahim, two of our men, with a certain quantity to dispose
+of, and they both returned in the evening with the fruits of their
+success, having obtained the sum of eight thousand cowries for them.
+This has given us fresh spirits again, for we had not a single cowrie to
+give to our men. The inhabitants of Rabba purchased them very eagerly,
+at from fifteen to thirty cowries each needle, and they were anxious to
+get more, when they found that our men had disposed of the whole.
+
+It has been the policy of Mallam Dendo, who, by all accounts, is an able
+and crafty chief, and a courageous man, to advance foreigners of all
+nations to certain lucrative and important posts, either about his
+person, in the army, or as governors of conquered towns; and by this
+means he conciliates, in a great measure, the black, or original
+population of the country, confirms his reputation, and establishes his
+sovereignty with little trouble over lands and districts which he may
+have subjugated and added to his dominions. It appears that the prince
+of Rabba is wholly independent of Bello, the sultan of Soccatoo, or at
+most that he pays only a nominal allegiance to that monarch, though an
+amicable intercourse is constantly kept up between them.
+
+Mallam Dendo lately planned an expedition against the kingdom of Funda,
+which was instantly carried into execution, though former enterprises of
+the kind had uniformly terminated in confusion and defeat. This also was
+a complete failure; for as his soldiers were drawing near the city of
+Funda, as the story goes, and had attained an eminence for the purpose
+of reconnoitring the surrounding country, they saw, or thought they saw,
+to their infinite amazement, a large army coming out to meet them, and
+all the soldiers armed with muskets, and clothed after the manner of
+foreigners in blue and white dresses. This put them all in a
+consternation; and without stopping to look behind them, they fled with
+the utmost speed, and returned to their own homes without accomplishing
+anything. Here they attempted to vindicate their cowardice by telling
+their countrymen a very marvellous story of their having encountered an
+army of white men, whose formidable equipments and warlike appearance
+had made their hearts droop within them, and they had fled. In allusion
+to this story, Mallam Dendo asked Paskoe, in confidence, yesterday,
+whether he did not think that many of our countrymen were assisting
+their adversaries?
+
+Mallam Dendo, it is said, can send one thousand horse soldiers, well
+equipped and mounted on noble animals, to the field; and the number of
+foot soldiers he has at his command is so great, that it is not known.
+All runaway slaves are encouraged to join the ranks on condition of
+receiving their freedom; and they are joined by a vast number from the
+surrounding country. The natives are commanded by captains from among
+their own countrymen, and the Falàtahs also by theirs; the greatest
+good-will prevails among them, and we have nowhere observed quarrelling
+of any kind.
+
+The Falàtahs are now in possession of the whole of Nouffie, Ederesa
+having relinquished his claim, as he had been deserted by the greater
+part of his troops, who joined the army of Mallam Dendo. Both the Magīa
+and Ederesa have little or no authority. The Falàtah prince has sent his
+messengers, both by land and water, to collect the taxes and tributes
+throughout the country of Nouffie, which were last year paid to Ederesa.
+Yarriba will soon follow the condition of Nouffie, and the Falàtahs, in
+the course of a few years, will reach the sea. An idea of their
+character may be formed from their usual boast, that they could conquer
+the whole world if the salt water did not prevent them.
+
+_Friday, Oct. 12th._—As we have already said, Rabba market is very
+celebrated, and considered by traders as one of the largest and best in
+the whole country, of which it may be styled the emporium; a variety of
+articles, both of native and foreign manufacture, are there offered for
+sale; and it is generally well supplied with slaves of both sexes.
+Yesterday, one of our men counted between one and two hundred men,
+women, and children, who were all exposed for sale in ranks or lines.
+These poor creatures have, for the most part, been captured in war; and,
+it is said, that the Falàtahs rarely treat them with unkindness, and
+never with brutality. The price of a strong, healthy lad is about forty
+thousand cowries (8_l._ sterling); a girl fetches as much as fifty
+thousand, and perhaps more if she be at all interesting; and the value
+of men and women varies according to their age and abilities. Slaves are
+sometimes purchased at Rabba by people inhabiting a country situated a
+good way down the Niger, and from thence they are delivered from hand to
+hand till they at length reach the sea. Ivory is likewise sold, most
+likely to the same individuals, and large tusks may be purchased at a
+thousand cowries each, and occasionally at a much cheaper rate. We have
+eleven elephants’ tusks of our own, which were presented to us by the
+kings of Wowow and Boussà, but we have been unable to dispose of them at
+Rabba because no strangers are at present in the city.
+
+All the principal inhabitants of Rabba are complaining bitterly of the
+want of money, and the peculiar hardness of the times. Formerly, they
+say, it was not so; and they ascribe their present poverty and
+embarrassments to their late reverses in war, and misfortunes at home.
+Their recent unsuccessful attack on the _Cumbrie_ people, who reside in
+the province of Engaskie, near Yàoorie, and which we have alluded to in
+our visit to that country, has quite humiliated and disheartened them.
+To be outwitted and overthrown by the unwarlike Cumbrie, who are
+considered as a despicable race by all people, and to have lost so many
+men and horses in that expedition, have been a source of great
+mortification to their vanity, and derogation of their high name. In
+order to redeem their national character from the stain which it has
+thus received, and to restore the reputation for bravery and resolution
+which had before so eminently distinguished them from their neighbours,
+but which is now so deeply tarnished, the Falàtahs at Rabba are actively
+employed in hastening preparations for the invasion of Yarriba; and are
+resolved, it is reported, to set out in a very few days for Katunga, the
+capital, which is to be their first object of attack. They anticipate
+success, without the dread of opposition; and they already boast of
+acquisitions which they have not yet gained, and exult in the thoughts
+of the splendour and opulence they shall enjoy in cities which they have
+not yet seen. Our old friend, the monarch of Yarriba, on his part, has
+been put on his guard, and is, we hear, determined to resist any hostile
+attempt which may be made against his country.
+
+Mallam Dendo sent for Paskoe this morning in a great hurry, with a
+message, that he was waiting impatiently his arrival at Rabba, having
+something of the utmost consequence to communicate. As may easily be
+conjectured, we were rather surprised at this unexpected summons, and
+waited Paskoe’s return with much anxiety, for we had no doubt whatever
+that we were principally concerned in it. When, however, he _did_ come
+back, and enter our hut, he looked very wistfully, and informed us, with
+considerable agitation both of voice and manner, that Mallam Dendo had
+expressed to him the greatest dissatisfaction at the things which he had
+received from us as a present, declaring them to be perfectly worthless,
+and, with the exception of the looking-glass, ‘fit only for a child!’
+that he well knew we could have sent him something more useful and of
+greater value, if we had thought proper; but that if we persisted in our
+refusal to do so, he should demand of us our guns, pistols, and powder,
+before he would consent or permit us to leave Zagōzhi. This news made us
+very uneasy and unhappy, and we sat down in gloom and thoughtfulness
+without uttering a word, for we believed this to be a death-blow to all
+our hopes. To part with the only defensive weapons in our possession, we
+felt determined not to do; it brought to our recollection the fable of
+the lion deprived of his teeth and claws. We knew that if we were to be
+deprived of these, we should be entirely in the power of a set of
+fellows who are remarkable neither for generosity nor nobleness of
+principle, without the means of helping ourselves; and we resolved never
+to part with our guns unless compelled to do so by force or from the
+most urgent necessity. Having reflected deliberately on our situation,
+we felt convinced that something on our part must be done, by way of
+conciliation, if we had any intention of quitting the country, and of
+prosecuting our enterprise. The chief also wanted to know why we had not
+gone to Sansam to see the Magīa, having been only five days’ journey
+from him when at Yàoorie, and added, that one of us must go immediately.
+We were much hurt, and pointed out to the messenger our only box of
+presents, and told him it was all we possessed to last us to the sea,
+adding, that if we were to give his master more, we should have nothing
+left to obtain us even food on our voyage. At this moment we thought of
+Mr. Park’s tobe, which was given to us by the king of Boossà; and
+thought, that as it was the only thing which we had to offer, it _might_
+in consequence of the splendour of its appearance, and its intrinsic
+value, prove an acceptable present to the covetous prince, and we fondly
+hoped that it might be the means of a perfect reconciliation on both
+sides: therefore, under these considerations, we immediately dispatched
+Ibrahim with it to Rabba, though our hearts misgave us at the time, that
+it would after all be thought lightly of, as an excuse for further
+extortions. Of course, we deeply lamented the necessity to which we were
+reduced on parting with this curiosity, but it was inevitable. We sent
+word by Ibrahim also, that having no good presents to give him was the
+reason I had not visited Bello when we were at Yàoorie, and that I
+declined doing so for the same reasons now. Our plan was to make friends
+with the Rabba chief, and this we have some hopes the tobe we have just
+sent to him will effect.
+
+In less than two hours after his departure, Ibrahim returned from his
+errand with a quick step and cheerful looks, and informed us, that the
+tobe was accepted by the prince with rapturous admiration. By this
+present we had made him our friend for ever; he regretted that the
+Falàtahs had no canoes, but were they possessed of any, he would make us
+a present of as many as we might want, and accelerate our departure from
+Zagōzhi with all his influence. ‘Ask the white men,’ said he, ‘what they
+would desire, and if Rabba can supply them with it, tell them they shall
+always have it.’ ‘Well!’ he continued, ‘I must purchase this tobe; I
+will not accept it as a gift,—that would be against my principles, and
+besides it would be wrong for me to be guilty of such injustice. Now I
+shall be something like a king,’ he added, turning the tobe inside and
+out; ‘let no man know of it; my neighbours will behold me with envy; and
+as for my own people, I will surprise them some morning by putting it on
+when they are going to war; it will dazzle their eyes. How great will be
+their astonishment!’ In this manner the prince of the Falàtahs talked to
+Ibrahim. We hardly know what conclusion to draw from it, but rather
+imagine that this present of the tobe will in the end be advantageous to
+our interests, though we very much regret its loss. Our man has been
+desired to visit Rabba again to-morrow, when a present of some kind will
+be sent us as an acknowledgment, for such is the custom of the country.
+
+_Wednesday, October 13th._—In pursuance of the chief’s arrangement, we
+sent Ibrahim and Paskoe to him this morning. He received them with
+civility, said he was highly pleased at their coming, and wished to know
+in what manner he could best express his acknowledgments to us for the
+present we had made him, which he termed a ‘princely gift,’ promising to
+make us all the return for it in his power, by forwarding our departure,
+and assisting us in the object of our visit as much as he was able.
+Paskoe, who had previously been tutored by us, and who is not deficient
+in sagacity, made answer, and said, that our first wish, and the one
+which he believed we were most anxious about, was to obtain a large
+canoe, and pursue our journey on the Niger as fast as possible; that as
+we had little money, and but few presents, and as the ‘King of the Dark
+Water’ had refused to exchange a canoe of the above description, for
+those which we had obtained at Patàshie, unless we would consent to pay
+him ten thousand cowries, we should be obliged to him to settle that
+little affair to our satisfaction, otherwise he said we should be
+embarrassed with insuperable difficulties. And that if the prince of
+Rabba approved of it, a few mats, tobes, or sandals, would be highly
+acceptable; and would be considered by us as a sufficient remuneration
+for the presents we had made him. This answer pleased the prince, and he
+cheerfully agreed to the whole of Paskoe’s propositions. He then went
+out and procured a bundle of the handsomest-coloured mats, for the
+manufacture of which Rabba is famous, and came back, and delivered them
+into the hands of Paskoe as an offering to us, with two large bags of
+rice, and a bunch of plantains. He gave Ibrahim also a handsome tobe and
+cap for himself; and promised to send a messenger to the _King of the
+Dark Water_ to settle the business of the canoe, by whom he would
+likewise send valuable tobes, to be worn by my brother and myself. He
+then presented Paskoe with a thousand cowries; and he returned with
+Ibrahim to Zagōzhi, quite overjoyed with success.
+
+A foot messenger from the King of Nouffie arrived at Rabba in the
+morning. His sovereign had despatched him privately to Mallam Dendo,
+with an insinuation to him, ‘that if it met with his approbation, he
+(the Magīa) would order us to be detained at Zagōzhi until we should
+consent to make him a present of a certain number of dollars, or
+something equivalent to them in value; that he disbelieved the story of
+our poverty altogether, and would therefore search our luggage, in order
+to discover whether our assertion was true or false, that we had no
+greater presents to make.’ So much dissimulation, meanness and rapacity,
+which this trait in his character exhibits, we had little reason to
+expect from the King of Nouffie, after expressing for us, so warmly and
+repeatedly as he has done, protestations of the most cordial, candid,
+and lasting friendship. We could not forbear feeling very indignant at
+this foul breach of the laws of hospitality and good faith, which we had
+experienced in every part of the country previous to this. Perhaps it
+was well that we had presented the prince of Rabba with Mr. Park’s tobe,
+for he treated the message and its bearer with contempt, and answered
+energetically: ‘Tell the Magīa, your sovereign, that I would rebuke him
+for this expression of his sentiments; that I detest his base
+insinuations; that I will never consent to his wishes; and that I reject
+his proposal with disdain. What! shall the white men, who have come from
+such distant lands to visit our country, who have spent their substance
+among us, and made us presents, before we had leisure to do any good for
+them, shall they be treated so inhumanly? Never! They have worn their
+shoes from their feet, and their clothes from their persons, by the
+length and tediousness of their journeys; they have thrown themselves
+into our hands, to claim our protection and partake of our hospitality;
+shall we treat them then as robbers, and cast them from us like dogs?
+Surely not. What would our neighbours,—what would our friends—our foes,
+say to this? What could be a greater reproach than the infamy which
+would attach itself to our characters, and to our name, should we treat
+these poor, unprotected, wandering strangers, and white men, too, in the
+manner your monarch, the King of Nouffie, proposes? After they have been
+received and entertained with so much hospitality and honour in Yarriba,
+at Wowow, and at Boossà, shall it be said that Rabba treated them badly;
+that she shut her doors upon them, and plundered them? No, never! I have
+already given my word to protect them, and I will not forfeit that
+sacred pledge for all the guns and swords in the world.’ Such was the
+answer which the King of Nouffie’s messenger received from the Falàtah
+chieftain. Surely it was worthy of a prince.
+
+Our men saw and conversed with this Nouffie messenger, who had made no
+secret of his errand, and the above answer was related to Paskoe by the
+prince of the Falàtahs himself.
+
+The imbecility of the Magīa, and his want of power, are strikingly
+apparent; he exercises a nominal authority only over his people, Mallam
+Dendo being evidently the ruling monarch of the whole kingdom of
+Nouffie. The former never enters into any public undertaking, without
+consulting the Falàtah ruler, and first obtaining his consent to the
+measure, be it urgent or otherwise.
+
+Several Hàussa merchants arrived at Rabba this morning, with a number of
+fine horses for sale. As soon as they entered the town, they went to pay
+their respects to the prince, when Paskoe happened to be in his company,
+and they conversed together in the Falàtah language, not thinking for a
+moment that it could be understood by him. In allusion to us, for we are
+generally brought on the _tapis_ on such occasions, they spoke very much
+in our praise, mentioned Captain Clapperton, ‘the unfortunate Abdallah,’
+in terms of the highest admiration, and had seen with wonder the
+splendid and curious presents which he had made to Sultan Bello at
+Soccatoo. ‘I know the white men, too,’ said the prince, ‘they are good
+men; in fact I have reason to speak well of them, for I also am a white
+man, and therefore I am of opinion that they are of the same blood as
+ourselves.’ It is in this manner that Falàtahs endeavour to claim
+relationship with Europeans, though these people are either of a swarthy
+complexion, or black as soot; and this passion to be considered fair is
+often carried to a most ridiculous height. White men, how sorry soever
+their outward appearance may be, are certainly considered, not only by
+Falàtahs, but by the native blacks, as a superior order of beings, in
+all respects more excellent than themselves. At Yàoorie we recollect
+having overheard a conversation between two men, who were quarrelling in
+the very height of passion. ‘What!’ exclaimed one of them to his fellow,
+‘thou pitiful son of a black ant! dost thou presume to say that a horse
+was my father? Look at these Christians! for as they are, I am; and such
+were my ancestors; answer me not, I say, for I am a white man!’ The
+speaker was a Negro, and his skin was the colour of charcoal.
+
+_Thursday, October 14th._—It is time that our journey should be
+completed, for our goods are very nearly exhausted; and so far from
+being in a condition to make further presents, our means will scarcely
+be adequate to procure the bare necessaries of life. Our stock of cloth,
+looking-glasses, snuff-boxes, knives, scissors, razors, and tobacco-
+pipes, has already been given away, and we have only needles and a few
+silver bracelets left to present to the chiefs whom we may reasonably
+expect to fall in with on our voyage down the Niger. Henceforward we
+must endeavour to shun as many large towns on the banks of the river, as
+we may venture to do with safety. In order to obtain a little money, in
+addition to what we have already been enabled to procure from the sale
+of a quantity of needles, both for present use and future convenience, I
+sent my watch this afternoon to the Falàtah general, who is the
+Bornouese that made us a present a day or two ago, and he agreed to
+purchase it for the sum of sixty thousand cowries; but having the
+misfortune to let it fall shortly afterwards, as he was in the act of
+mounting his horse, the glass was broken by the accident, and it was so
+much damaged outwardly, that its beauty of appearance is entirely
+destroyed. It was returned to us towards evening, with a present of a
+bunch of plantains and a beautiful leopard’s skin, as a remuneration for
+the injury which it had sustained, but without sending any apology, or
+the most distant allusion to the accident! The watch, however, still
+_ticked_, and the brightness of its inner case was untarnished,
+therefore we sent it over instantly to Mallam Dendo, who received it
+with eagerness, and purchased it on the spot for a large sum of money,
+which he has promised to pay us to-morrow, and Paskoe has accordingly
+left it in his hands.
+
+The story which we heard when at Yàoorie, relative to the decease of old
+Mallam Dendo, father of the present prince of the Falàtahs, was not
+true, as that individual is still alive. But the rumour we suppose to
+have originated from the old chief’s abdication in favour of his son,
+which took place at the time, and his relinquishment of all public
+business in consequence of that resolution, though it is said that he
+still influences his son’s conduct in all private as well as public
+concerns. He now sits, as the Arabs tell us, in one position every day
+from morning till night, with three large calabashes around him, one of
+which is kept constantly filled with _tuah_, another with cowries, and a
+third with goora nuts; and he revels in the delights which these
+calabashes afford him all day long. He has the reputation also, now that
+he is become old, of being both a miser and a glutton. He receives but
+few visiters, and those are of a particular description, with whom
+acquaintance has made him familiar, and whose company, equality of age,
+and a similarity in tastes and inclinations, have rendered desirable.
+These friends are at liberty to eat a handful of _tuah_, or chew a goora
+nut in his company, whenever they please. Old Mallam Dendo is considered
+a very eccentric character by all those who have either seen or heard of
+him, and his singular manner of living is the common theme of
+conversation among all ranks. His son is said to inherit none of his
+father’s foibles or propensities; he is revered as a leader, and beloved
+as a man, though the Arabs do not speak well of his consistency. For
+some reason, the report of the old man’s death is industriously
+propagated.
+
+_Friday, October 15th._—We are generally awakened every morning at day-
+break, and on particular occasions long before the sun rises, with the
+noise of the grinding of corn and the loud cheerful singing which
+accompanies it from the females engaged in that laborious occupation,
+for females only are employed in it. The same custom prevails in
+Yarriba, in Borgoo, and at Yàoorie, and in fact throughout the whole of
+western, central, and northern Africa, as far as we can learn. Instead
+of the mill formerly used in Judea, and in all eastern countries, with
+its handle of wood or iron in the rim, the people here simply employ two
+large stones, flat and smooth, with the uppermost of which they rub the
+grain till it becomes sufficiently fine. Perhaps this is a more ancient,
+as it is a more simple contrivance, than the corn-mills used by the
+females of the east, to which it is greatly inferior. However, Dr.
+Clarke, the traveller, is of opinion, that the former ‘are the primeval
+mills of the world,’ and he also says, that ‘they are still found in all
+corn countries where rude and ancient customs have not been liable to
+those changes introduced by refinement.’
+
+_Rabba_, which has before been alluded to, appears from Zagōzhi to be a
+considerably large, neat, clean, and well-built town, though it is
+unwalled, and is not otherwise fenced. It is irregularly built on the
+slope of a gently-rising hill, at the foot of which runs the Niger; and
+in point of rank, population, and wealth, it is the second city in the
+Falàtah dominions, Soccatoo alone being considered as its superior. It
+is inhabited by a mixed population of Falàtahs, Noufanchie, and
+emigrants and slaves from various countries, and is governed by a ruler
+who exercises sovereign authority over Rabba and its dependencies, and
+is styled Sultan or King. The regal power is despotic, though exercised
+with mildness, and the succession hereditary. The Arabs and all
+strangers have an enclosure of dwellings to themselves, which is in the
+suburbs of the town. Rabba is famous for milk, oil, and honey. The
+market, when our messengers were there, appeared to be well supplied
+with bullocks, horses, mules, asses, sheep, goats, and abundance of
+poultry. Rice and various sorts of corn, cotton, cloth, indigo, saddles
+and bridles made of red and yellow leather, besides shoes, boots, and
+sandals, were offered for sale in great plenty. Although they observed
+about two hundred slaves for sale, none had been disposed of when they
+left the market in the evening. The inhabitants grow abundance of corn
+and rice, and other productions common to the neighbouring countries,
+and they cultivate the plantain shrub with success. They possess large
+flocks and herds of the finest description, and their horned cattle are
+remarkable for their size and beauty. They have also a prodigious number
+of excellent horses, of which they take the greatest care, and they are
+universally admired for their strength and elegant proportions. These
+animals are used only for war, recreation, and in travelling. It is the
+pride and pleasure of the higher classes to dress well, and display
+their persons and their horsemanship to advantage, and it is gratifying
+to witness the grace and dexterity with which they preserve their
+command over these beautiful creatures. In the management of their
+horses, they are perhaps not inferior to the Arabs, from whom they have,
+in all probability, derived most of their lessons in the art. Rabba is
+not very famous for the number or variety of its artificers, and yet in
+the manufacture of mats and sandals they are unrivalled. However in all
+other handicrafts Rabba yields to Zagōzhi.
+
+_Zagōzhi_, situated as it is, directly opposite Rabba, participates in
+many of its advantages, though still it has various inconveniences
+peculiar to itself. The town is built on a bog, for such it appears to
+us, and it lies so close to the water, that in fact hundreds of huts are
+literally standing in it. So little regard do the people appear to have
+for what is termed comfort, that they suffer the walls of their
+dwellings either to fall to pieces, or permit large chinks and holes to
+remain in them, which freely admit the wind and rain; while the floors,
+which are made of earth or clay, are so soft and damp, that a slender
+stick may easily be thrust into them by the hand to any depth. Our own
+is of this description. In so moist a situation as this, it may readily
+be supposed the air in the night season is illuminated with fire-flies.
+The huts of the natives are infested with mosquitoes and other more
+disgusting insects, which abound indeed in millions. When the Niger
+subsides, and leaves Zagōzhi exposed with all its dirt to the influence
+of the sun, the noxious vapours and exhalations with which the air must
+of necessity be impregnated, will render it no doubt very insalubrious;
+but at present the inhabitants make few or no complaints.
+
+In their huts the people exhibit no very favourable specimens of taste
+or cleanliness; and in this respect, certainly, they are greatly
+inferior to their neighbours on the other side of the river. However, in
+their persons they are by no means so negligent, for they always appear
+extremely well dressed; and we have rarely met with so large a number of
+tall, handsome, well-formed men and comely women, as in this place.
+
+The care which the Falàtah bestows, and the pride which he takes in his
+horse, are employed and indulged by the inhabitants of Zagōzhi in an
+equal proportion in their canoes; the Niger is covered with these little
+vessels, and to be skilful in the management of them is their greatest
+boast. The chief of the island has about six hundred canoes, all of
+which will be employed, when the young Mallam Dendo is proclaimed king,
+in conveying the Falàtah troops across the river on their expedition
+into Yarriba. They are fond of aquatic occupations, even to a passion,
+and carry them to excess. All the trade by water in these parts is in
+their hands, and they are proprietors of the ferry to and from Rabba,
+which is a source of considerable emolument to those engaged in this
+speculation. They are also excellent fishermen, and, in fact, the
+population of Zagōzhi are almost amphibious, so prone are they to be
+perpetually sporting in bogs or dabbling in water. But they do not
+confine themselves all the year round entirely to the river, for they
+cultivate the soil as well, and, like their countrymen of Nouffie, in
+the manufacture of various articles they evince considerable ingenuity
+and expertness. The cloth which they manufacture in common with their
+countrymen, and the tobes and trowsers which they make, are most
+excellent, and would not disgrace an European manufactory; they are worn
+and valued by kings, chiefs, and great men, and are the admiration of
+the neighbouring nations, which vainly attempt to imitate them. We have
+also seen a variety of caps, which are worn solely by females, and made
+of cotton interwoven with silk, of the most exquisite workmanship. The
+people here are uncommonly industrious, be they males or females, and
+are always busy either in culinary, or other domestic occupations.
+
+In our walks we see groups of people employed in spinning cotton and
+silk; others in making wooden bowls and dishes, mats of various
+patterns, shoes, sandals, cotton dresses and caps, and the like; others
+busily occupied in fashioning brass and iron stirrups, bits for bridles,
+hoes, chains, fetters, &c.; and others again employed in making saddles
+and horse accoutrements. These various articles, which are intended for
+the Rabba market, evince considerable taste and ingenuity in their
+execution.
+
+We have not seen a single public amusement since we have been among
+them. In this respect they are an example to their neighbours. They seem
+quite independent of all authority and above all restraint, except that
+of the legitimate _King of the Dark Water_, and their own interests
+induce them to obey him alone. They care as little for the Falàtahs as
+the Falàtahs for them; the peculiarity of their situation renders them
+secure from foreign invasion, and insensible to the calamities and
+distresses which overwhelm the natives of many parts of the continent.
+They have liberty stamped on their features, and lightness and activity,
+so rarely to be seen in this country of sluggards, are observable in all
+their actions. The generality of the people are well-behaved; they are
+hospitable and obliging to strangers; they dwell in amity with their
+neighbours, and live in unity, peace, and social intercourse with
+themselves; they are made bold by freedom, affluent by industry and
+frugality, healthy by exercise and labour, and happy from a combination
+of all these blessings.
+
+The population of Zagōzhi cannot well be estimated, on account of its
+lowness and the prevailing flatness of the country round, on which
+neither a hillock nor eminence of any kind can be discerned. However, it
+must be immense; and we consider it to be one of the most extensive and
+thickly inhabited towns, as well as one of the most important trading
+places in the whole kingdom of Nouffie, not excepting even Coulfo.
+According to our estimation the island may be about fifteen miles long
+and three in breadth, but the greater part of it is now nearly
+overflowed. Notwithstanding this, the natives appear to enjoy good
+health.
+
+Novelties, however trifling, attract the notice of the people of Rabba,
+as glittering baubles excite the attention of a child; and as children,
+too, become tired of their plaything a few moments only after it is put
+into their hands, so do they throw aside in disgust, when it ceases to
+be a novelty, that which they would have given half their substance to
+obtain a few seconds before it actually became their own. They are
+
+
+ Pleased with a feather, tickled with a straw.
+
+
+The prince of the Falàtahs is already tired of my watch, which he
+purchased yesterday, and he returned it this afternoon, with all its
+machinery broken; and, like the Bornouese soldier, without making any
+acknowledgment for his carelessness. However, we _have received
+permission to quit Zagōzhi to-morrow morning, to pursue our journey down
+the Niger_; and though all the promises of the Magīa have terminated in
+nothing—though a Nouffie guide has been denied us—and though it is
+likely that we shall be perplexed with a thousand difficulties, yet we
+are in high spirits and great good humour at the thoughts of our
+release, for we know that we shall go our way with alacrity and
+confidence.
+
+We have been busily employed in packing up and making preparations for
+our departure from Zagōzhi to-morrow morning. We are in hopes of having
+no difficulties about the canoe, and are desirous of obtaining one that
+will hold all of our party, as it will be a much more satisfactory
+arrangement for us, and more convenient than two small ones. The chief
+of the island visited us in the morning, and promised to send a
+messenger with us as far as _Egga_, on the banks of the river. This is
+the last town, we are told, down the river belonging to the Nouffie
+territory, and its distance from hence is said to be four days’ journey.
+He tells us also, that the river is quite safe, according to the reports
+of the Nouffie people who trade between this place and Egga.
+
+This afternoon, the chief was unwilling to part with a canoe under any
+consideration, yet, as a token of his friendship and regard, he has
+offered to spare us one for twenty thousand cowries! in addition to our
+own which we brought from Patàshie island. A messenger from the prince
+of Rabba arrived here just after this proposition was made us, with full
+powers to treat with the Water King for our canoe. ‘I will see,’ said
+the man, ‘whether I can make him comply with your wishes or not; he will
+not show me any of his airs, I am sure.’ This messenger brought with him
+a large bag of rice as a present from Mallam Dendo, who desired him to
+inform us, that ‘he wished us well, and should be most happy to hear of
+our return to the country by way of the Niger.’ As soon as he had
+delivered his message to us, he repaired to the dwelling of the Zagōzhi
+chief, and returned to us from his errand shortly afterwards, with the
+intelligence of his having succeeded in obtaining the long-talked-of
+canoe, which would be in readiness to receive us on board at an early
+hour to-morrow. This has removed a great weight from our minds.
+
+Last night my brother was troubled and terrified in his sleep by a
+frightful dream of scorpions, and, to his astonishment, when he awoke
+this morning, he discovered one of those reptiles on his mat, which he
+had crushed to death in his sleep.
+
+The ‘Dark Water King’ has been informed of our poverty, we believe, and
+his goodness is declining very perceptibly in consequence. Nor do his
+people, we are sorry to say, regard us with the same respect and
+partiality as formerly, nor treat us with as much beer as they did.
+Doubtless they have imbibed a similar notion, that the white men are
+poor, and _their_ kindness and goodnature are also fast dwindling away.
+Perhaps all this is natural: even from our friends and relations,
+hospitality and tenderness do not, under such circumstances, last for
+ever. It is true the natives have pitied us; but pity is composed of
+sorrow and contempt; and here, as in more polished countries, we have
+found it to be unsubstantial and fleeting. After the first gush of
+feeling, the tear of compassion gives place to the frigid indifference
+of contempt. To be pitied is to be despised. Such is the case here, and
+such is the way of the world.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ LONDON:
+
+Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES,
+
+Stamford Street.
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[Footnote 1: _Mesr_, as the Arabs pronounce the word, is the _Cairo_ of
+Europeans.]
+
+[Footnote 2: The same as _Comie_ in the map.]
+
+[Footnote 3: This is most probably the Songa of Clapperton, he having
+passed through it on his way to Comie from Boossà; and his name,
+therefore, has been adopted in the map.]
+
+[Footnote 4: This place has three names. Clapperton calls it _Comie_,
+‘or more properly, _Wonjerque_,’ and Lander _Inguâzhilligee_. It appears
+to be the first place below Boossà where the river is entirely clear of
+rocks, and is therefore adopted as the ferry, and called the ‘King’s
+Ferry.’ It is the general thoroughfare for merchants passing and
+repassing from Nouffie and the countries to the north-east of Borgoo.]
+
+[Footnote 5: The first _z_ in this word, is pronounced like our _z_ in
+azure.]
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+
+ pg 60, Changed: "the Magīa, which which was the occasion of" to:
+ "Magīa, which was"
+
+ pg 93, Changed: "for these simple, villagers" to: "for these simple
+ villagers"
+
+ pg 143, Changed: "aud he felt assured that we should reach" to: "and"
+
+ pg 148, Changed: "we came in sight of the wals" to: "walls"
+
+ pg 230, Changed: "little more sprits of hartshorn" to: "spirits"
+
+ pg 240, Changed: "aftewards, in order to get clear" to: "afterwards"
+
+ Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.
+
+ Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78792 ***
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+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+<title>Journal of an expedition to explore the course and
+termination of the Niger, Vol. 2 (of 3) | Project Gutenberg</title>
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78792 ***</div>
+
+<div class="margins">
+<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
+available by clicking on them.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a class="link2" href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78791/78791-h/78791-h.htm">Vol.
+1</a> — <a class="link2" href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/78793/78793-h/78793-h.htm">Vol.
+3</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">JOURNAL</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">OF AN</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less">EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE COURSE AND<br>
+TERMINATION OF THE NIGER.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i05"><a href="images/i05.jpg"><img src='images/i05.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1">JOHN LANDER</p>
+
+<p class="ipubc"><em>London. Published by John Murray, Albemarle
+Street, 1832.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<h1><span class="xlarge letter-spaced01">JOURNAL</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">OF</span><br>
+<span class="less line-height1">AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE
+COURSE<br>
+AND TERMINATION</span><span class="line-height2"><br>
+<span class="vsmall">OF</span></span><span class=
+"line-height3"><br>
+<span class="xxlarge letter-spaced02">THE NIGER;</span></span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center vsmall">WITH A</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above1">NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE DOWN THAT
+RIVER<br>
+TO ITS TERMINATION.</p>
+
+<p class="center spaced17"><span class="vsmall">BY</span><br>
+RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width3 spaced2">
+
+<p class="center spaced17 small"><em>IN THREE VOLUMES.</em><br>
+ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS AND MAPS.</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above1">VOL. II.</p>
+
+<p class="publisher"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">LONDON:</span><br>
+<span class="less">JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width2">
+
+<p class="center vsmall">MDCCCXXXII.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced13 space-above"><span class=
+"small">LONDON:</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">Printed by <span class="sc">William
+Clowes</span>,<br>
+Stamford Street.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="spaced2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_v">[v]</span><span class=
+"large letter-spaced01">CONTENTS</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">OF</span><br>
+<span class="less"><span class="letter-spaced01">VOLUME THE
+SECON</span>D.</span>
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width3">
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c08">CHAPTER VIII.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr med">Page.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">The Widow Zuma — Present to the King —
+Visit to the Niger — The King of Boossà, and Midikie — Object of
+the mission explained — The tobe of Park recovered — Park’s Papers
+— Boossà described — Resources of the Country — One of Park’s books
+discovered — Equity of the King — The hostess — Departure from
+Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the Niger — Description of
+the River — Village of Sooloo — Rocky Barrier — Arrival at
+Yàoorie.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c09">CHAPTER IX.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Remarks on the River — Intelligence of
+the fate of Mr. Park — His Gun obtained — Visit to the Sultan —
+Unsuccessful Application for Mr. Park’s Papers — The Kingdom and
+City of Yàoorie and its Natives — The Sultan’s Son — Insurgents —
+The Sultan’s Daughters — Mischief of the Widow Zuma — Application
+of the Travellers to the King of Boossà — Wars in Nouffie —
+Provinces of Hàussa — Detention of the Travellers — The Sultan of
+Yàoorie — His character — Farewell visit.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">33</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c10">CHAPTER X.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Leave Yàoorie — Method of watching the
+Corn — The Cumbrie People — their treatment — Sleeping-huts and
+Spear of the Cumbrie — Arrive at Waree — Garnicassa — Ignorance of
+the Natives concerning the course of the River — Their Amusements —
+Return to Boossà — Visit to Wowow recommended — The River consulted
+by the King of Boossà — Kings of this City — Scarcity of Provisions
+— Journey to Wowow — First interview with the King.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">81</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_vi">[vi]</span><a href="#c11">CHAPTER XI.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Horse-racing at Wowow on the Mahomedan
+Sabbath — Indignation of the King of Wowow against the King of
+Kiàma — Religious Procession of Females — Policy of the King of
+Wowow — Richard Lander taken ill — Leaves his brother at Wowow, and
+returns to Boossà — Narrative of John Lander — The Blessing of the
+Priestess — Religious Sects — Their Creeds, and Ideas of a Future
+State — Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies — Park’s Books — The States
+of Borgoo — The last of Park’s effects — Farewell to the King of
+Wowow — Departure — Village — Apprehensions of the Natives — The
+Travellers meet at Boossà.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">114</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c12">CHAPTER XII.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Scandal of the Natives — Treaty for a
+Canoe — Defeats of the Falàtahs at Catsheena and Zaria — Measures
+of the King of Boossà for the future safety of the Travellers —
+Artifices for obtaining Presents from them — Preparations for
+Celebrating the Mahomedan Festival — The King’s Drummer — The Horse
+Race, and the King’s Speech — A troublesome Servant — Festivities
+at Boossà — The Eclipse — Version of it by the Arab Priests —
+Effects on the people — Messengers from Borgoo — Caffas — Mode of
+preparing them — Arrival of a Fatakie — The Ashantees’ method of
+killing Elephants — Married Slaves — Their Treatment — Permission
+for Departure requested — El Kanemee the Arab — The King assents to
+the Travellers leaving Boossà — The Messenger from Rabba with the
+King’s Son — Joy of the King of Boossà at his arrival — Opinion of
+his general conduct towards the Travellers.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c13">CHAPTER XIII.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">The King and Midiki take leave of the
+Travellers — They embark on the River and depart from Boossà —
+Island Melálie Inguâzhilligee — Island Patáshie — The Chief of Teàh
+— Messengers from the King of Wowow — Perplexity of the Travellers
+respecting their Route — Terror of the Natives at their Appearance
+— An Invalid — Diseases of the Natives — Their Medicines — Richard
+Lander goes to Wowow — Superstition of the Natives — Charms —
+Return of Richard Lander<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_vii">[vii]</span> to Patáshie — His interview with the King
+of Wowow — House of Correction at Patáshie — Native Pagan Priest —
+Departure from Patáshie — Ráah — Arrive at Lever — An officious
+Friend in the Priest Ducoo — Disappointment of the Travellers.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">210</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c14">CHAPTER XIV.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs
+— The Travellers’ Canoes claimed — Interference of Ducoo —
+Detention of the Travellers — Their departure from Lever — The Town
+of Bajiebo — Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo — Departure from Bajiebo —
+Scenery of the River — Town of Leechee — Visit to the Chief — The
+Passage continued down the River — Madjie Island — Mount Kesa —
+Land on Belee Island — Messenger from Rabba — Arrival of Suliken
+Rouah, or the King of the Dark Water — Grand Procession of Canoes
+down the River — Arrival at Zagozhi Island — Its swampy
+nature.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">246</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c15">CHAPTER XV.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Stay at Zagozhi — Presents sent to the
+Chiefs of Rabba — An old but troublesome acquaintance — Presents
+from the Kings of Nouffie and Rabba to the Travellers —
+Importunities of the King’s messengers — An Arab merchant — Policy
+of the Falátah Chief, Mallam Dendo, in securing the possession of
+his conquests — Former Expedition of the Falátahs against Funda —
+Rabba market — The King of Rabba discontented with his present —
+Consternation of the Travellers — Park’s tobe sent to him — Joy of
+the King on receiving it — Permission to proceed — Treacherous
+conduct of the King of Nouffie — The King of Rabba’s answer —
+Conversation among the Hàussa merchants — Mallam Dendo the former
+King of Rabba — His character — Rabba market — Island of Zagozhi —
+The islanders expert canoemen — Manufactures of Zagozhi — Promise
+of a canoe.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">284</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="decor width10">
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="center pb xlarge space-above letter-spaced01">
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span>JOURNAL.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width4">
+
+<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">The Widow Zuma — Present to the King — Visit to
+the Niger — The King of Boossà and the Midīkie — Object of the
+mission explained — The tobe of Park recovered — Park’s papers —
+Boossà described — Resources of the Country — One of Park’s books
+discovered — Equity of the King — The hostess — Departure from
+Boossà — Kagogie — Canoes — Embark on the Niger — Description of
+the river — Village of Sooloo — Rocky barrier — Arrival at
+Yáoorie.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Friday, June 18th.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">The</span> noted widow Zuma visited us to-day without the
+slightest pretensions to finery of any kind, either in her dress or
+ornaments, for she was clad in very humble apparel of country
+cloth. She related to us with great good humour her quarrels with
+her prince, the ruler of Wowow, and her consequent flight from that
+city to escape his resentment. It appears that, in order to effect
+this, she was actually obliged to climb over the city wall in the
+night, and travel on foot to Boossà, which is a very long journey,
+and to a woman of her size must have been an arduous task. She
+alleged that she had done nothing whatever to merit the displeasure
+of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> Wowow chief,
+notwithstanding which he had robbed her of all her household
+furniture and a number of her slaves. But, from another quarter, we
+learn that one of her sons had committed a theft in the city, for
+which he would have suffered death, if he had not made his escape
+with his mother, who it is said had instigated him to the deed. The
+widow complained sadly of poverty and the hardness of the times;
+she had fought with the Yarribeans against Alòrie; but instead of
+receiving a recompense for her bravery, she had lost half her
+slaves in an engagement, which so disgusted her with the military
+profession, that she immediately abandoned it and returned home.
+Yet, in spite of all her losses and misfortunes, she has gained so
+much in corpulency, that it was with the utmost difficulty she
+could squeeze herself into the doorway of our hut, although it is
+by no means small. The widow Zuma is a very good-looking, elderly
+person of matronly appearance. Her skin is of a light copper
+colour.</p>
+
+<p>After the widow had left us, I carried the presents which had
+been selected to the king and queen. Each appeared delighted with
+them, and the former more especially was extravagant in expressions
+of admiration and thankfulness. A pair of silver bracelets, a
+tobacco pipe, and a looking-glass, seemed to rivet the attention of
+the king, who could not take his eyes off them for<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> a full half hour, so much was he
+pleased with them.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we visited the far-famed <em>Niger</em> or
+<em>Quorra</em>, which flows by the city, about a mile from our
+residence, and were greatly disappointed at the appearance of this
+celebrated river. Black, rugged rocks rose abruptly from the centre
+of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface. It
+is said that, a few miles above Boossà, the river is divided into
+three branches, by two small fertile islands, and that it flows
+from hence in one continued stream to Funda. The Niger here, in its
+widest part, is not more than a stone’s-throw across at present.
+The rock on which we sat overlooks the spot where Mr. Park and his
+associates met their unhappy fate; we could not help meditating on
+that circumstance, and on the number of valuable lives which have
+been sacrificed in attempting to explore this river, and secretly
+implored the Almighty that we might be the humble means of setting
+at rest for ever the great question of its course and
+termination.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, June 19th.</em>—This morning the king, accompanied
+by his consort, who is said to be his counsellor and only
+confidant, honoured us with a visit at our hut. They came without
+any kind of state or ceremony, and were both dressed more plainly
+than many of their subjects. The king wore a white cotton tobe over
+another of blue and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>
+white, a cap of red cloth, and leathern sandals of the same colour.
+The midīkie was clad in a common check shirt, of Nouffie
+manufacture; a plain piece of blue cotton was fastened round her
+head, wholly concealing the hair; a larger piece of the same kind
+was thrown over the left shoulder, and a third, tied round her
+waist, reached so far as the middle of the leg. Her feet were bare,
+as were likewise her arms up to the elbow; a brass ring ornamented
+each great toe, and eight silver bracelets each wrist, the least of
+them weighing little less than a quarter of a pound. Besides these
+ornaments, the queen wore a necklace of coral and bits of gold, and
+small pieces of pipe coral were stuck in the lobe of each ear.</p>
+
+<p>We had almost forgotten to mention that the sultan of Bornou is
+considered the most powerful chief of Northern, as the king of
+Boossà is of Western Africa. The queen is the daughter of the last
+and sister of the present ruler of Wowow.</p>
+
+<p>The demand for coral has been very great in every town of
+consequence which we have visited. All ranks of people appear
+passionately fond of wearing it, and it is preferred to every other
+ornament whatever. The midīkie asked us, this morning, if we had
+brought any coral with us, and seemed rather disappointed, though
+not displeased, on being answered in the negative. She then pulled
+out a little box, made of sheep skin,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_5">[5]</span> which was filled with coral beads and little
+golden trinkets, and requested me to polish the latter for her. We
+offered her a few plated buttons, which we had just before been
+cleaning, and they were accepted with transport; but, as their
+brightness had excited the admiration of her consort, a scramble
+took place as to which of the two should have them. After a long
+struggle, it ended in the triumph of the king, who first chose the
+largest and best for his own use, and then gave his spouse the
+remainder, taking care, however, to show her the inside of the
+buttons he had selected for himself, which were tarnished by use,
+and to display those intended for her to the greatest advantage.
+The royal couple were like two great children, yet they were each
+well pleased with their own, and expressed their thankfulness with
+much warmth.</p>
+
+<p>We imagined that it would have been bad policy to have stated
+the true reason of our visiting this country, knowing the jealousy
+of most of the people with regard to the Niger; and therefore, in
+answer to the king’s inquiries, I was obliged to deceive him with
+the assertion that our object was to go to Bornou by way of
+Yáoorie, requesting at the same time a safe conveyance through his
+territories. This answer satisfied the king, and he promised us
+every assistance in his power. Our visitors remained with us a
+considerable time, and in the course of conversation,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> one of them observed that they had
+in their possession a tobe, which belonged to a white man who came
+from the north many years ago, and from whom it had been purchased
+by the king’s father. We expressed great curiosity to see this
+tobe, and it was sent us as a present a short time after their
+departure. Contrary to our expectations, we found it to be made of
+rich crimson damask, and very heavy from the immense quantity of
+gold embroidery with which it was covered. As the time when the
+late king is said to have purchased this tobe corresponds very
+nearly to the supposed period of Mr. Park’s death, and as we never
+heard of any other white man having come from the north so far
+south as Boossà, we are inclined to believe it to be part of the
+spoil obtained from the canoe of that ill-fated traveller. Whether
+Mr. Park wore the tobe himself, which is scarcely probable on
+account of its weight, or whether he intended it as a present to a
+native chief, we are at a loss to determine. At all events, the
+article is a curiosity in itself; and if we should live to return
+to England, we shall easily learn whether it was made there or not.
+The chief himself has never worn the tobe, nor did his predecessor,
+from a superstitious feeling; ‘besides,’ observed the king, ‘it
+might excite the cupidity of the neighbouring powers.’</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, June 20th.</em>—The king sent a
+messenger<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> this morning,
+to inform us that he was a tailor, and that he would thank us for
+some thread and a few needles for his own private use. By this man
+he likewise sent a musket for us to repair; but as it is Sunday, we
+have declined doing it till to-morrow. Eager as we are to obtain
+even the slightest information relative to the unhappy fate of Mr.
+Park and his companions, as well as to ascertain if any of their
+books or papers are now in existence at this place, we had almost
+made up our minds to refrain from asking any questions on the
+subject, because we were apprehensive that it might be displeasing
+to the king, and involve us in many perplexities. Familiarity,
+however, having in some measure worn off this impression, and the
+king being an affable, obliging, and good-natured person, we were
+emboldened to send Paskoe to him this morning, with a message
+expressive of the interest we felt on the subject, in common with
+all our countrymen; and saying that, if any books or papers which
+belonged to Mr. Park were yet in his possession, he would do us a
+great service, by delivering them into our hands, or at least by
+granting us permission to see them. To this the king returned for
+answer, that when Mr. Park was lost in the Niger, he was a very
+little boy, and that he knew not what had become of his effects;
+that the deplorable event had occurred in the reign of<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> the late king’s predecessor, who
+died shortly after; and that all traces of the white man had been
+lost with him. This answer disappointed our hopes, for to us it
+appeared final and decisive. But in the evening they were again
+raised by a hint from our host, who is the king’s drummer, and one
+of the principal men in the country: he assured us, that there was
+certainly one book at least saved from Mr. Park’s canoe, which is
+now in the possession of a very poor man in the service of his
+master, to whom it had been entrusted by the late king during his
+last illness. He said moreover, that if but one application were
+made to the king, on any subject whatever, very little was thought
+of it; but if a second were made, the matter would be considered of
+sufficient importance to demand his whole attention,—such being the
+custom of the country. The drummer therefore recommended us to
+persevere in our inquiries, for he had no doubt that something to
+our satisfaction would be elicited. At his own request, we sent him
+to the king immediately, desiring him to repeat our former
+statement, and to assure the king, that should he be successful in
+recovering the book we wanted, our monarch would reward him
+handsomely. He desired the drummer to inform us, that he would use
+every exertion, and examine the man who was reported to have the
+white man’s book in his possession, at an early<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> hour to-morrow. Here the matter at
+present rests.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, the king came alone to see us, and wished to
+know when we were inclined to depart: we answered, that we were
+quite ready; that we were only waiting his pleasure, and would
+gladly proceed on our journey whenever he would give us permission.
+He said, if the king of Yáoorie should not have a canoe for us by
+Monday evening, we should have the use of one of his own, and that
+we should have liberty to embark on the following morning. We
+thanked him for his kindness, and took the opportunity of paying
+him and his spouse a compliment, which their treatment of us has
+really deserved. The king took it in good part, was extremely
+affable and obliging, and quitted us in an excellent humour.</p>
+
+<p>I have been very unwell during the last day or two, but am now
+much better.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, June 21st.</em>—The city of Boossá, as we have
+before observed, consists of a great number of groups or clusters
+of huts, all within a short distance of each other. It is bounded
+on one side by the river Quorra or Niger, and on the other by an
+extensive turreted wall, with moats, forming a complete semicircle.
+Notwithstanding, however, its natural and artificial defences,
+Boossá was taken by the Falátahs many years ago; on which occasion
+its inhabitants fled, with their children and effects, to one of
+those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> little islands
+in the Niger, which we have already mentioned. But the chiefs of
+Niki, Wowow, and Kíama, having been made acquainted with the
+circumstance, assembled together, and having joined their forces
+with those of Boossà, drove the Falátahs, their common enemy, into
+the Niger, where many of them perished. Since that period the city
+has never been invaded, nor threatened with attack. The soil of
+Boossà is, for the most part, very fertile, and produces rice,
+corn, yams, &amp;c., in great abundance. <em>Dowah</em>, a kind of
+corn, is obtained here in the greatest perfection; it yields five
+hundred fold, and forms the principal food of the inhabitants, both
+rich and poor. Another variety of corn grows here, which has eight
+ears on a single stem; the grain is very small and sweet, but it is
+not cultivated to any extent. The butter-tree flourishes in and
+near the town; and palm oil is imported from Nouffie; but the
+latter is only used as an article of food, because it is very
+scarce and dear, and is purchased only by the king and a few of the
+principal inhabitants. The king and his midīkie have each great
+numbers of fine cattle, but none of their subjects are in
+possession of a single bullock; they have, however, flocks of sheep
+and goats, and obtain immense quantities of fish from the Niger.
+Very good salt is brought from a salt lake on the borders of the
+river, which is about ten days’ journey to the northward of this
+place; and pepper grows in every part<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_11">[11]</span> of the country. Guinea-fowl, pheasants,
+partridges, and a variety of aquatic birds are found here in the
+greatest plenty, and have afforded us excellent sport. The natives
+sometimes endeavour to shoot them with their arrows, but this
+method of procuring game is at all times very precarious and
+difficult; and two birds only have been thus killed during several
+years past. Deer and antelopes also abound near the city; but they
+are timid and shy, and rarely, if ever, caught by the inhabitants.
+The fish, with which the river abounds so plentifully, are eaten by
+all classes of people: they are tough, dry, and unsavory; yet they
+form part of the daily food of the inhabitants, who appear
+exceedingly fond of them.</p>
+
+<p>The Hàussa language is understood by the generality of the
+natives of Borgoo, both young and old, almost as well as their
+mother-tongue, and it is spoken by the majority of them with
+considerable fluency. The government of the country is despotic;
+but this unlimited power, which is vested in the monarch, is almost
+invariably exercised with lenity and forbearance. All private
+disputes are settled by the king, and he punishes misdemeanours
+just as his inclination may lead him. It was reported that the
+queen ruled her husband, and influenced his conduct in all matters;
+but the affair of the buttons shows the rumour to be ill-founded.
+The king’s address<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> is
+superior; and his whole demeanour, in our presence, though mild and
+unassuming, displays a good deal of natural dignity. He sent us a
+fine turkey this morning, which was acknowledged on our part by a
+couple of Guinea-fowl and two brace of partridges, which my brother
+had shot.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, the king came to see us, followed by a man
+with a book under his arm, which was said to have been picked up in
+the Niger after the loss of our countryman. It was enveloped in a
+large cotton cloth, and our hearts beat high with expectation as
+the man was slowly unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to
+be Mr. Park’s journal; but our disappointment and chagrin were
+great, when, on opening the book, we discovered it to be an old
+nautical publication of the last century. The title page was
+missing, but its contents were chiefly tables of logarithms. It was
+a thick royal quarto, which led us to conjecture that it was a
+journal; between the leaves we found a few loose papers of very
+little consequence indeed; one of them contained two or three
+observations on the height of the water in the Gambia; one was a
+tailor’s bill on a Mr. Anderson; and another was addressed to Mr.
+Mungo Park, and contained an invitation to dinner,—the following is
+a copy of it:—</p>
+
+<p>‘Mr. and Mrs. Watson would be happy to have<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_13">[13]</span> the pleasure of Mr. Park’s company at
+dinner on Tuesday next, at half-past five o’clock.</p>
+
+<p>‘An answer is requested.</p>
+
+<p class="nind">‘<em>Strand, 9th Nov.</em> 1804.’</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">The king, as well as the owner of the
+book, looked as greatly mortified as ourselves, when they were told
+that the one produced was not that of which we were in quest,
+because the reward promised would not of course be obtained. As
+soon as our curiosity had been fully satisfied, the papers were
+carefully collected and placed again between the leaves, and the
+book as carefully folded in its envelope as before, and taken away
+by its owner, who values it as much as a household god. Thus all
+our hopes of obtaining Mr. Park’s journal or papers, in this city,
+are entirely defeated. The inquiry, on our part, has not been
+prosecuted without much trouble and anxiety, and some little
+personal sacrifices likewise, which, had they been ten times as
+great, we would gladly have made whilst a single hope remained of
+their being effectual.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, June 22d.</em>—When Captain Clapperton was at Wowow
+on the former expedition, Paskoe purchased a slave of the widow
+Zuma to be his wife, but for some reason or other the bargain was
+not completed, and the woman remained with her mistress. A part of
+the purchase-money only<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_14">[14]</span> was given back to Paskoe, and he was obliged
+to quit the town with his master without having had an opportunity
+of recovering the remainder. The widow’s late change of residence
+from Wowow to Boossà seemed to offer a fair chance for Paskoe to
+obtain his money, and he accordingly made an early application for
+it; but though she acknowledged the debt, she refused payment on
+the ground that, as the prince of Wowow had forcibly obtained
+possession of the girl in question, he had no right whatever to the
+money. Paskoe, unwilling to lose so large a sum, then laid the
+matter before the king of Boossà, for his decision; and, in
+consequence, the widow has undergone two or three examinations,
+without producing any good whatever. The monarch has declared that
+he sees the justice of his demand, but as the woman obstinately
+refuses to pay the debt, he cannot think of forcing her to do so
+against her inclination. Paskoe subsequently offered the whole of
+the money which the widow owed him to the king, provided the latter
+could obtain it. But this was altogether repugnant to the monarch’s
+notions of right and wrong. He replied, ‘The widow came here to me
+alone, and in distress, to claim my protection, which I granted her
+without hesitation; it would therefore ill become me to break my
+faith, and turn my back on an object so utterly defenceless and
+unprotected,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> by
+exacting from her the money of another for my own use, in the
+recovery of which I had previously refused to interfere. I cannot
+break my word—I cannot grant you your request.’</p>
+
+<p>It is amusing to discover the shifts to which the people of
+Boossà and other places have resorted, in the hope of obtaining a
+little present of some sort from us. The day after our arrival
+here, a man, who represented himself as brother to the King of
+Nouffie, sent us a large bowl of dried fish and onions; and another
+individual has sold his only tobe, for the purpose of obtaining a
+little money to purchase some <em>bum</em>, which is a fermented
+liquor extracted from the palm tree and the bamboo, and which he is
+about to present to us. The former of these presents was rejected,
+because such kind of things had become, by their frequency, so
+serious an inconvenience, that we have determined to accept of
+nothing for the future in the shape of a gift, except from the
+chiefs and governors themselves. Yet we have repented of our
+resolution in this instance, having been informed yesterday that
+the pretended brother of the King of Nouffie was not long ago taken
+prisoner by the Falátahs, and his only son with him, and that they
+were both sold by them to a company of Hàussa merchants; that the
+father had redeemed himself from slavery by his own exertions, and
+that he had had recourse<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_16">[16]</span> to the above expedient of sending us a
+quantity of dried fish and onions, in the expectation of obtaining
+a little money from us towards emancipating his son. The poor man
+went away quite crest-fallen and unhappy at the ill success of his
+project, and quitted the city immediately after, to visit his
+enslaved son, who is at <em>Koolfu</em>, so that when we were made
+acquainted with the circumstance it was too late to relieve him,
+and we very much regretted it.</p>
+
+<p>Our hostess is an agreeable and good-natured woman, but she is
+excessively vain of her person; so much so indeed, that she employs
+several hours in the day in dressing her hair, which hangs down
+below the face in three plaited <em>queues</em>, one of them from
+the forehead, and one from each side of the head; after which she
+affixes ornaments on different parts of her body, stains her lips
+and teeth a shining red colour with <em>hennah</em> (a species of
+myrtle); and when all this is done she admires herself in a broken
+looking-glass which we have given her. This is the most whimsical
+and diverting part of the ceremony: she approaches the glass and
+retreats from it again, smiles when she fancies that she looks
+pretty; and distorts her features and throws her body into all
+manner of comical attitudes, to ascertain which is the most
+engaging. Although only a drummer’s wife, our hostess is considered
+as a person of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>
+respectability, for her husband’s situation is one of the most
+important in the kingdom; and all the more respectable females of
+Borgoo adorn their persons in much the same manner as she does, and
+have an almost equal share of affectation and vanity. The men
+sometimes stain their lips and teeth, and finger and toe-nails,
+like their wives; but this custom is by no means general among
+them. The King and Queen of Boossà disregard it altogether.</p>
+
+<p>We brought three horses with us to Coobly from Jenna; two of
+them have died from fatigue, and the third is in so miserable a
+state, that he can be of no further service to us. The king paid us
+a visit this afternoon, and informed us that everything will be in
+readiness for our departure to-morrow. On this occasion he
+presented us with an excellent and handsome horse, which is the
+more acceptable, as we have only one, which we fortunately
+purchased a few days ago from the Governor of Coobly. The monarch
+strongly enjoined us to accept of no provisions, particularly milk
+and honey, from any person whatever, excepting the governors of
+towns through which we may pass, for he was apprehensive that
+poison would be mixed with them. He did not explain to us on what
+grounds he entertained his suspicion, but left us to form our own
+conjectures on his unexpected advice. If we are not
+mistaken,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> the king
+warned Captain Clapperton of a similar danger.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole course of our journey we have nowhere
+experienced greater kindness, attention, and hospitality, than from
+the amiable ruler of this place, and his no less amiable companion,
+and we shall have occasion to remember their civility to us as long
+as we live.</p>
+
+<p>Since we have been here the king has given us a horse, bullock,
+sheep, and turkey, which were all very valuable, while our present
+to him is considerably less than that which the King of Kiáma
+received.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, June 23rd.</em>—Last night Boossà was visited by
+a tornado, which did a little mischief to the town. At an early
+hour in the morning the king and queen paid us a farewell visit,
+when the former again cautioned us to beware of poison. We then
+expressed our acknowledgments to both for all their favours; and an
+hour or two after they had taken their departure, we rode out of
+the city, accompanied by two horsemen as an escort, and a
+foot-messenger to the Sultan of Yàoorie. Not far from the walls of
+Boossà we came to a spot where the herds of the King and Midīkie
+were grazing: finer cattle can nowhere be seen; they are under the
+care of Falátah slaves, because the natives do not understand their
+management. From hence<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_19">[19]</span> we journied along the banks of the Niger, at
+an easy pace, owing to the hollows in the path, and two hours
+afterwards entered a pleasant little walled town, called
+<em>Kagogie</em>, where we were desired to halt till to-morrow. The
+town is peopled solely by the King of Boussà’s slaves; and is
+distant, in a northerly direction, from the capital about eight or
+nine miles. We have been sent hither by land, because a canoe could
+not be paddled up the river without the greatest difficulty and
+danger, on account of the rocks. The inhabitants of Kagogie appear
+to enjoy an easy kind of life. The chief part of their time is
+employed in husbandry, fishing, and taking care of the king’s
+horses; and though but indifferently clad, they all seem well fed,
+contented, and comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon a young woman presented herself with a few
+loose leaves of ‘Thomson’s Seasons,’ which we had thrown away at
+Boossà. She had been despatched purposely by the king, her master,
+who imagined that they were valuable to us, and that we had
+overlooked them in the hurry of departure.</p>
+
+<p>Even here, in this insignificant and sequestered place, the
+Arabic language is professed to be taught in schools, and boys are
+put under the tuition of men, who can only teach them a few very
+short Mohammedan prayers, and who do not themselves understand a
+single Arabic character.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>Our nights were
+spent most unpleasantly at Boossà, by reason of the swarms of
+mosquitoes and black ants which infested our dwelling, and whose
+sting is keener than a needle’s point; the latter insect, in
+particular, is a great nuisance, and we are told that there is not
+a town on the banks of the Niger that is free from either.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, June 24th.</em>—Though the governor of Kagogie had
+been made acquainted with our intentions no less than three days
+before our arrival, yet no canoe had been got ready for our use;
+and this morning, when we expected to embark, the ‘King of the
+Canoe,’ as the person who has the care of it is ridiculously
+styled, informed us with the utmost unconcern that it was out of
+repair, and that it would not be fit for our reception for some
+hours at least. This intelligence was very disagreeable and
+provoking, for we were so anxious to embark on the Niger, that the
+shortest delay was painful to us. Besides the appearance of the
+morning foretold a hot day, and as we had neither awning nor
+umbrellas to screen us from the burning sun, this circumstance
+tended to increase our uneasiness. The natives have no forethought,
+and imagine that all men value time as little as themselves;
+everything is deferred till the very last moment, and they look up
+into one’s face with wonder when they see one anywise
+impatient.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>In the course of
+the forenoon we repaired to the side of the river, which is about
+twenty or thirty paces from the town, for the purpose of
+endeavouring to encourage and hurry the workmen in their labour
+about the canoe. Promises and threats were employed to effect this
+object, but the men would neither be coaxed nor intimidated,—they
+would not overwork themselves, they said, for all the riches in our
+possession; so that we were obliged to leave them, and exercise our
+patience. The branch of the Niger which flows by Kagogie is about a
+mile in width; but it is rendered so shallow by large sand-banks
+that, except in one very narrow place, a child might wade across it
+without difficulty. Mr. Park chose a deeper and safer branch,
+though it led to the same dangers.</p>
+
+<p>Our horses were conveyed across from here to the opposite side
+of the river, from whence they will be taken to Yàoorie by land,
+because the canoes of the natives would be too frail a conveyance
+for them. These canoes are of great length, but the workmanship
+employed in making and fashioning them is exceedingly rude and
+careless. Owing perhaps to the want of proper trees of sufficient
+magnitude, they are made of <em>two</em> blocks of wood, which are
+sewn together by a thick cord, under which a quantity of straw is
+placed, both inside and out, to prevent the admission<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> of water; but the whole is
+altogether so clumsily executed, that every canoe in the country is
+always leaky.</p>
+
+<p>About mid-day the workmen having finished our canoe, the luggage
+was presently put into it, and between twelve and one we embarked
+with our people, and were launched out into the river. The
+direction of this branch was nearly east and west; and we proceeded
+some distance down the stream for the purpose of getting into the
+main branch of the Niger, where there is deeper water. This object
+was soon attained, and we found it flowing from north to south,
+through a rich and charming country, which seemed to improve in
+appearance the further we advanced. We were propelled at a good
+rate up a channel, which, from half a mile in breadth, gradually
+widened to rather better than a mile. Beautiful, spreading, and
+spiry trees adorned the country on each side of the river, like a
+park; corn, nearly ripe, waved over the water’s edge; large, open
+villages appeared every half-hour; and herds of spotted cattle were
+observed grazing and enjoying the cool of the shade. The appearance
+of the river, for several miles, was no less enchanting than its
+borders; it was as smooth as a lake; canoes, laden with sheep and
+goats, were paddled by women down its almost imperceptible current;
+swallows, and a variety of aquatic birds, were<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_23">[23]</span> sporting over its glassy surface, which
+was ornamented by a number of pretty little islands.</p>
+
+<p>The heat of the weather distressed us greatly, till the approach
+of evening, when large sand-banks and shallows engaged our
+attention. A little after eight, <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, we
+landed on the eastern bank of the river, not far from a small
+village, where we fixed our tent on a plot of rising corn, and,
+having nothing to eat, went supperless to rest.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, June 25th.</em>—The most remarkable object which we
+saw on rising this morning, was a rugged and romantic range of
+hills, appearing to the eastward of our encampment: it is called
+<em>Engarskie</em>, from a country of the same name in which the
+hills are situated, and which was formerly an independent kingdom,
+but is now become a province of Yàoorie. At a little before seven,
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, our canoe was pushed off the sandy
+beach on which it had been secured last evening, and propelled down
+a very narrow channel, between a large sand-bank and the shore.
+This conducted us into the main branch of the Niger, and we again
+admired its delightful and magnificent appearance.</p>
+
+<p>We had proceeded only a few hundred yards when the river
+gradually widened to two miles, and continued so as far as the eye
+could reach. It looked very much like an artificial canal; the
+banks having the appearance of a dwarf wall,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_24">[24]</span> with vegetation beyond. In most places the
+water was extremely shallow, but in others it was deep enough to
+float a frigate. During the first two hours of the day, the scenery
+was as interesting and picturesque as can be imagined. The banks
+were literally covered with hamlets and villages; fine trees,
+bending under the weight of their dark and impenetrable foliage,
+everywhere relieved the eye from the glare of the sun’s rays, and,
+contrasted with the lively verdure of the little hills and plains,
+produced the most pleasing effect. Afterwards, however, there was a
+decided change; the banks, which before consisted of dark earth,
+clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks; large
+sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river, which diverted
+it into a variety of little channels, and effectually destroyed its
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>About eleven o’clock, dark clouds from the west foretold an
+approaching storm; and our boatmen used their utmost exertions in
+endeavouring to reach a village, or some place of security, before
+it should burst upon us; but in this hope we were disappointed, for
+in a very few minutes it blew a hurricane, accompanied by thunder
+and lightning of the most awful description, and the rain fell in
+torrents. It became, besides, so dark, that nothing could be
+clearly distinguished at the distance of only a few yards. We were
+wetted to the skin in a moment; and our canoe was in danger
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> sinking as we came
+abreast of a little fishing village, on an island, close to the
+water’s edge. We jumped on shore as soon as possible, and ran,
+without shoes or hats, into the first hut we came to for protection
+from the storm. Here our unlooked for intrusion frightened away a
+poor woman, who rushed out of the hut as we entered it; but we
+commenced throwing off our dripping clothes, and displacing a pot
+of fish which was stewing over a few expiring embers, heaped up all
+the dry wood we could find. Not till then did we discover that our
+situation was little better than it had been in the canoe; the hut
+had two large open doorways opposite each other, through which the
+wind swept the rain, and filled it with pools of water. This was
+too much for us, and sallying out immediately, half-dressed, we
+hurried towards a hut which we perceived at a short distance; but
+this was no better than that which we had left,—all seemed alike;
+and rushing back again through the pelting rain, we regained our
+deserted hut, and resigned ourselves to all its inconveniences. Our
+people shortly afterwards came up to us, quite benumbed with cold
+and wet; and, notwithstanding their distress and our own
+comfortless condition, we could not forbear laughing at their
+comical and ragged appearance. Meantime the hostess and her
+husband, with several of the other villagers, summoned up
+resolution enough to visit us; and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_26">[26]</span> by way of a peace-offering, they brought with
+them fire-wood and a small quantity of provisions. This enabled us
+to kindle two large fires in the hut, which, as the storm was
+abating, soon dried up the water; but we were unavoidably obliged
+to lie down in damp clothes. My brother and I sat up during the
+best part of the night, for we found it impossible to sleep, not
+only on account of myriads of mosquitoes, but the groaning and
+snoring of men, the barking and growling of dogs, an incessant
+drumming at an adjacent village, and the startling roar of a lion,
+which was prowling about our quarters nearly the whole of the
+night.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, June 26th.</em>—The tempest of yesterday was
+succeeded by a cool evening, and a remarkably clear night. In the
+morning, on leaving the village, we were followed to the beach by a
+few of its inhabitants, and when the canoe was pushed off at seven
+o’clock, they cheered us loudly. These people are harmless and
+good-natured, but dirty in their persons and singular in their
+manners. Their language is different from that spoken at Boossà.
+Most of the villages on the islands, as far as Yàoorie, it is said,
+are inhabited by the same race of people, and they are also
+scattered on the banks of the river. The women daub their hair with
+red clay, but they are too poor to purchase many personal
+ornaments, and the men use none whatever. They appear
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> have the
+necessaries of life in abundance; they are partial to agriculture,
+and cultivate large portions of land with corn, rice, and onions;
+besides which fishing is carried on by them on an extensive scale,
+and numbers of the men go three days’ journey up the Niger to catch
+fish. Most of their huts are supported on clay pillars, which are
+wonderfully small; or on stone slabs not more than an inch in
+thickness. The walls of the huts are only two or three inches in
+thickness; but these have no large doorways like that which we
+occupied; and instead of them, they are furnished with a small
+single aperture near the roof, to which their owners are obliged to
+climb; and even then they cannot enter without great exertion.
+These huts approach nearer to the shape of a common English oven
+than anything else we have ever seen. Situated between Boossà and
+Yàoorie, the inhabitants of most of the islands speak the language
+of those countries, but they have also one of their own, which
+nobody but themselves understand: a smattering of the Hàussa
+tongue, which they have attained, is the only method of
+communication which is adopted in their trading transactions.</p>
+
+<p>We had passed the island whereon we slept last night but a few
+minutes, and had just entered into the main river, when we came to
+a spot where it spreads again into branches, and each channel
+was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> literally filled
+with dangerous rocks, sand-banks, and low islands covered with tall
+rank grass. The appearance of them was extremely disheartening. We
+were conducted up the main branch of the river, but were soon
+obliged to land with our people in order to lighten the canoe,
+which, after a deal of exertion, was lifted over a ridge of rocks
+into deeper water. During the greater part of the morning, indeed,
+our canoe was continually striking against concealed rocks, or
+running on hidden sand-banks, but sustained no apparent damage by
+the concussion; the only inconvenience we experienced from it was
+the fatiguing one of being obliged to get out and in whenever it
+was found necessary. It therefore afforded us much pleasure to be
+landed, about two o’clock in the afternoon, on the left bank of the
+river, for we were heartily tired of our morning’s work, and felt
+highly gratified that it was over.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance from the water’s edge the country was
+thickly studded with clusters of huts, which all together are
+called the village of <em>Sooloo</em>; and we took up our quarters
+in a large one, which is nearest the landing-place. The inhabitants
+resemble very much the islanders already spoken of; they cultivate
+much land and catch vast quantities of fish; but though they live
+well, they are clothed very indifferently. The only ornaments they
+wear are made of the back-bone of a certain<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_29">[29]</span> species of fish, which are tied round the
+loins and other parts of the body. Besides corn, &amp;c. the
+inhabitants also grow immense quantities of onions, and they have
+large store-houses full of these, ready to be exported to different
+parts of the continent. The price of an onion here is two cowries;
+at Katunga forty, and at Badágry they fetch so high a price as a
+hundred cowries each.</p>
+
+<p>We were treated this afternoon with much hospitality by them,
+and they did all in their power to render our short stay as
+agreeable as possible.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, June 27th.</em>—Both of us awoke this morning rather
+unwell, which was most likely occasioned by our exposure to the
+tempest of Friday. The old chief of the village accompanied us to
+the water’s edge when we quitted our hut for the purpose of
+embarking, and enjoined the ‘King of the Canoe’ to be particularly
+careful of his charge. ‘Careful!’ answered the man; ‘to be sure I
+will; do I not know that white men are more precious than a
+boat-load of eggs, and require as much care to be taken of them?’
+We entreated the same man a short time afterwards to be more active
+and diligent in the management of his canoe, for he was rather
+inclined to be lazy, and suffered every one to go before ours; but
+he replied gravely, ‘Kings do not travel so fast as common men; I
+must convey you along as slowly as possible.’</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>We had heard so
+unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one particular
+place which we should have to pass, that our people were compelled
+to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till we
+had passed it, when we took them in again. We found the description
+to be in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding
+appearance, and yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossà
+in difficulty and danger. On our arrival at this formidable place,
+we discovered a range of black rocks running directly across the
+stream, and the water, finding only one narrow passage, rushed
+through it with great impetuosity, overturning and carrying away
+everything in its course. Our boatmen, with the assistance of a
+number of the natives, who planted themselves on the rocks on each
+side of the only channel, and in the stream at the stern of the
+canoe, lifted it by main force into smoother and safer water. The
+last difficulty with respect to rocks and sand-banks was now
+overcome, and in a very little time we came to the termination of
+all the islands, after which, it is said, there is not a single
+dangerous place up the Niger. The river here presented its noblest
+appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was anywhere
+perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong,
+refreshing breeze, which had blown during the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_31">[31]</span> whole of the morning, now gave it the
+motion of a slightly-agitated sea. In the course of the morning we
+passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at a
+short distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of
+Hesperia; indeed no spot on earth can excel them in beauty of
+appearance. These islands are inhabited by a few individuals.</p>
+
+<p>About eleven <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we landed at the foot
+of a little village on the east bank of the river, where our horses
+and men had arrived before us. Here a little milk was presented to
+us by a Falátah in the service of the sultan of Yàoorie, and we
+rested under a large tree an hour or two, awaiting the arrival of
+carriers from the city of Yàoorie, who had been sent for yesterday
+by one of the Boossà messengers that had charge of our horses.
+These men arrived at the village between one and two o’clock in the
+afternoon, and we immediately mounted and rode onwards.</p>
+
+<p>The path was in a N.N.E. direction, and we travelled over a
+sterile country, which was gradually rising at every step, and
+abounded plentifully in game. The weather was oppressively warm,
+and we were obliged to refresh ourselves by halting occasionally
+and resting in the shade. The soil, which at first was so
+indifferent and barren, improved greatly as we drew near Yàoorie;
+and immense patches of land, cultivated with a variety<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> of corn, also with rice, indigo,
+cotton, &amp;c., were visible on every side. Labourers were
+employed in these plantations, attended by a drummer, that they
+might be excited by the sound of his instrument to work well and
+briskly. On attaining the summit of a steep hill, we rode over a
+very narrow pathway, so much overhung by an impenetrable thorny
+shrub, that there was not room for more than one man to walk. This
+led us to the wall of Yàoorie, and we entered the city through an
+amazingly strong passage, in which was an immense door covered with
+plates of iron, rudely fastened to the wood-work. We were almost
+exhausted with fatigue on our arrival, insomuch that we excused
+ourselves from visiting and paying our respects to the sultan, and
+we were conducted to a convenient habitation, which had been
+prepared for us. Yàoorie is about eight miles N.N.E. from the
+village at which we landed.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span><a id=
+"c09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">Remarks on the River — Intelligence of the fate of
+Mr. Park — His Gun obtained — Visit to the Sultan — Unsuccessful
+Application for Mr. Park’s Papers — The Kingdom and City of Yàoorie
+and its Natives — The Sultan’s Son — Insurgents — The Sultan’s
+Daughters — Mischief of the Widow Zuma — Application of the
+Travellers to the King of Boossà — Wars in Nouffie — Provinces of
+Hàussa — Detention of the Travellers — The Sultan of Yàoorie — His
+character — Farewell visit.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">With</span> the exception of the
+dangerous rocks at Boossà, we are informed that, during our four
+days’ passage up the river, we have passed all the most difficult
+places in it, neither rocks nor sand-banks, it is said, being
+either above Yàoorie, or below Boossà. We have said nothing of the
+course of the river, because it is pretty well understood that this
+city lies nearly due north of Boossà; and also, that
+notwithstanding its windings and the number and variety of its
+channels, the Niger or Quorra flows past Boossà in a single
+undivided channel. In its natural bed, when uninterrupted by rocks,
+and other impediments, the river runs at this time of the year at
+the rate of between one and two miles in an hour;<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> whenever it is obstructed by
+them, however, the velocity of the current is considerably
+increased. Although during the dry season, no communication or
+intercourse is maintained by water between Boossà, and the
+countries or states lower down the river, by reason of the
+dangerous rocks which have been already alluded to more than once;
+yet in the wet season, after the ‘Malca’ (or fourteen days’
+incessant rain) has set in, when all the rivers which are dry
+during the remainder of the year, pour their overplus into the
+‘Great Father of Waters,’ as the Niger is emphatically styled, then
+canoes, it is said, pass to and fro, between Yàoorie, Nouffie,
+Boossà, and Funda. It is immediately after the ‘Malca,’ also, that
+the Niger, by the depth and velocity of its current, sweeps off the
+rank grass which springs up annually on its borders. Every rock and
+every low island is then completely covered, and may be passed over
+in canoes without difficulty, or even apprehension of danger. The
+enterprising Mr. Park must have had a thousand difficulties to
+overcome in his voyage down the Niger. It was about this time of
+the year that he arrived at Yàoorie, and the river, it is said, was
+then about the same height as it is at present. The canoe-men, who
+in all probability were his slaves, were said to be chained to the
+canoe, in order to prevent their running away; his pilot
+was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> unacquainted with
+the river any further, and therefore he received his wages here in
+Yàoorie, and returned to his own country; and Mr. Park, with a
+companion, and three white boys, continued their journey down the
+Niger without any person whatever to point out the safest channel,
+or warn them of their danger. When the accident happened at Boossà
+by which they lost their lives, it is said they preferred being
+drowned to avoid as they imagined a more dreadful death.</p>
+
+<p>Many years ago, a large boat arrived at Yàoorie on a trading
+voyage from Timbuctoo. Having disposed of their merchandise, the
+boatmen returned to their country by land, because they asserted
+that the exertion of working their vessel back so great a distance
+against the stream, was too much for them, and therefore they left
+it behind at Yàoorie.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, June 28th.</em>—This morning we were visited by the
+chief of the Arabs of this city, who (if such a title can be used
+with propriety) is Prime Minister to the Sultan. He is a very old
+man, as dark as a native; and was dressed in the costume of his
+countrymen, which is very becoming. His beard was long, and as
+white as snow, and a singular tuft of hair which was directly under
+the lower lip, did not look much unlike the tail of a white mouse.
+Though toothless,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> the
+old man was yet very communicative and intelligent, and among other
+things he informed us that Mr. Park did not visit the city of
+Yàoorie, but remained in his canoe at the village where we landed
+yesterday, and despatched a messenger in his stead to the sultan,
+with a suitable present. This Arab had been sent by the sultan to
+the village with presents in return, and by his description of Mr.
+Park’s dress, he must have worn the laced tobe that we received of
+the King of Boossà, and which may account for the facility with
+which we obtained it, as well as the reluctance of the king to
+enter into an explanation of the manner in which his ancestor had
+got possession of it. Mr. Park is stated to have been drowned in
+this same dress. The Arab informed us, that he had in his
+possession a cutlass and a double-barrelled gun, which was part of
+Mr. Park’s present to the sultan. We expressed a wish to look at
+these weapons, and they were immediately sent for. The gun was very
+excellent, and handsomely mounted; and we offered our own
+fowling-piece in exchange for it, which was cheerfully agreed to,
+but not till after the sultan’s consent had in the first place been
+obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Not long after the old Arab had taken his leave of us, several
+of his country-people of much fairer complexions, came to pay their
+respects; and among them was a young man named <em>Ali</em>,
+who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> arrived in this
+city yesterday, in ten days from Soccatoo, having stopped to trade
+on the road.</p>
+
+<p>The journey from hence to the city of Soccatoo, when no stoppage
+is made on the road, may easily be accomplished in five days only;
+and this is the regular time the natives take to go there. Koolfu
+is two days’ journey from Yàoorie. He represented himself as one of
+the Arabs that accompanied Major Denham, Captain Clapperton, and
+their party over the desert from <em>Mourzuk</em>, in Fezzan, to
+Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>Last night the sultan sent us a bullock, a fine large sheep of a
+peculiar species, the handsomest we ever saw; a great quantity of
+milk, and several hundred weight of rice; and this evening we
+received a large turkey and a bowl of rice from the chief of the
+Arabs.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, June 29th.</em>—This evening, by desire, we went to
+pay our respects to the sultan. We soon arrived at the palace,
+which is a very large building, or rather a group of buildings
+inclosed by a high wall; and dismounting, we were presently
+conducted through a low avenue formed by pillars, which was as dark
+as a subterraneous passage. This led to a large square yard, which
+we entered and found it to communicate with the sultan’s apartments
+by the number of domestics that were hurrying about. Several people
+were sitting on the ground, but we were obliged to<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> stand a long time, during which
+a profound silence was preserved, and no one was polite enough to
+offer us a mat to sit on. At length we received a summons to
+advance, and were introduced into another square, very much
+resembling a clean farm-yard. Here we discovered the sultan sitting
+alone in the centre of the square, on a plain piece of carpeting,
+with a pillow on each side of him, and a neat brass pan in front.
+His appearance was not only mean, but absolutely squalid and dirty.
+He is a big-headed, corpulent, and jolly-looking man, well stricken
+in years; and though there is something harsh and forbidding in his
+countenance, yet he was generally smiling during the conference.
+The conversation commenced in the usual complimentary way; and then
+our object in visiting Yàoorie was briefly and indirectly hinted
+at. When we asked him whether he did not send a letter to the late
+Captain Clapperton while that officer was at Koolfu, in which he
+had affirmed that he had certain books and papers in his possession
+which belonged to Mr. Park, he appeared very much confused. After
+thinking and hesitating a good while, he answered with an affected
+laugh, ‘How do you think that I could have the books of a person
+that was lost at Boossà?’ and this was all he said on the subject.
+He subsequently wished to know the reason that Captain Clapperton
+refused to visit him when he<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_39">[39]</span> passed through the country; but more
+especially why, after his death, I had not paid him that mark of
+respect on my return to the coast from Soccatoo. My reply to him
+was, that I had been told he was the greatest monarch in the
+country, and therefore I should have felt ashamed to have visited
+him with the trifling present which I had to offer, as he might
+consider it an insult to his dignity. A frown of disapprobation
+settled on his countenance at hearing this, and he sharply
+rejoined, that he was perfectly well acquainted with the nature and
+value of the presents which had been made to the various chiefs I
+had visited; but that if I had nothing to offer him, it was my
+duty, and should have been my first care, to have paid my respects
+to him at Yàoorie. Here the conversation was abruptly ended; the
+sultan was more than half inclined to be angry with us; and we were
+not at all sorry to be reconducted to the open air.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, June 30th.</em>—This morning I carried the
+sultan’s present to him; but it was very coldly received. I stated,
+that by reason of the selfishness and bad faith of the chief at the
+sea side, and the length of the journey from thence, the presents
+we had brought from England were nearly all expended; insomuch that
+we found it would be impossible to reach Bornou without receiving
+an additional supply of goods, which in our present situation we
+had no opportunity of obtaining; and that this being the case, we
+had no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> other resource
+left but to get to the salt water, when our wants would be promptly
+supplied. I observed that going down the river in a canoe would be
+the easiest and best means of effecting this object, to which the
+sultan replied that the price of a canoe would be a hundred
+dollars; but he was told that we had not property enough to
+purchase one. The road overland to Funda, by way of Koolfu or
+Guarie, was then mentioned, and the sultan promised to send us
+thither in two or three days. Here the conversation ended, and I
+took my leave.</p>
+
+<p>The young Arab from Soccatoo visited us again to-day, and
+presented us with dried dates which he had brought from Fezzan, and
+a quantity of trona. Ali is a handsome and intelligent young man,
+and is extremely open and communicative. But all his good qualities
+are cast in the shade by a mean and rapacious habit of begging,
+which he displays in common with his countrymen who reside here,
+and which has disgusted and displeased us more than once. He tells
+us that he is on his way to Alòrie in Yarriba with goods and horses
+for sale; but he is suspected to be a spy sent by Bello to examine
+the fortifications, and ascertain the state of public feeling in
+the city, with intelligence of which he is to return to him.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, July 1st.</em>—Yesterday nothing occurred worthy
+of observation, nor has anything taken place to-day which requires
+more than a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> passing
+remark. The sultan sent us ten old guns to clean and repair this
+morning; we are unable to execute the latter part of his commands,
+but fortunately the mulatto who accompanied us from Badàgry is
+fully competent to the task, and in such cases always acts in our
+stead. The sultan sent for Paskoe two hours afterwards, and desired
+him to ask us for medicine to cure sore eyes, and complaints in the
+bowels. We are pestered with such applications as these all day
+long. Paskoe embraced the opportunity of making inquiries of the
+sultan concerning the lost papers of Mr. Park, as we had desired
+him; but he shook his head, and would say nothing about the matter,
+and immediately shifted the conversation to another subject. This
+prince assumes more consequence than any chief or monarch that we
+have yet seen; he never receives a visit but he exacts from the
+visiter the most humiliating forms of address; and even when the
+Arabs themselves obtain an audience, they are obliged to deliver
+what they have to say to him on their knees. Perhaps he expected a
+similar servile position from us, for such his countenance seemed
+to indicate, but whatever might have been his expectation, we had
+no notion of demeaning ourselves so grossly in his presence. Since
+our arrival in this city, my brother and I have been very seriously
+indisposed, as might be expected, for the air is humid and
+unwholesome,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> being
+impregnated with all manner of noxious effluvia, from the swampy
+nature of the soil at this season of the year, and the number of
+large pools of impure water which exist more or less in every
+quarter of the town.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, July 2d.</em>—It is rather unfortunate for us, that
+so immense a quantity of needles was distributed through the
+country by the last mission; the market here is even now completely
+overstocked with them, so that we find it difficult to dispose of
+ours for a quarter of their value. In Yarriba and elsewhere, it was
+a general practice with us to pay the carriers of our luggage with
+needles only, but here we are endeavouring to dispose of them in
+order to purchase provisions for our people. We brought with us
+from England nearly a hundred thousand needles of various sizes,
+and amongst them was a great quantity of ‘Whitechapel sharps,’
+warranted ‘superfine, and not to cut in the eye!’ Thus highly
+recommended, we imagined that these needles must have been
+excellent indeed; but what was our surprise some time ago, when a
+number of them which we had disposed of, was returned to us with a
+complaint that they were all <em>eyeless</em>, thus redeeming with
+a vengeance the pledge of the manufacturer, that they ‘would not
+cut in the eye.’ On an examination afterwards, we found the same
+fault with the remainder of the ‘Whitechapel sharps,’ so that
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> save our credit we
+have been obliged to throw them away. Our best, and almost only
+resource, has been in the metal buttons attached to our English
+clothes. These, when polished brightly, look well and have
+completely won the people of all ranks, from the sultan to the
+slave, who freely offer three or four hundred cowries each for
+those with silver gilt, and double that sum for one with gold gilt;
+whereas, for a good looking-glass we can only obtain three hundred
+cowries. Our clothes are nearly all stripped of their buttons; and
+we now place our dependence for future support principally on a
+quantity of livery and soldiers’ buttons, which are, however,
+rather dull and dirty, and will require many hours’ labour before
+they attain any degree of brightness.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, July 4th.</em>—Yesterday was barren of incident of
+any kind. To-day I visited the sultan to make a last application
+for Mr. Park’s papers. He would give no decisive answer; but in the
+course of the day, he said he would tell the chief of the Arabs
+everything relative to them, and would send him to us with the
+information. Accordingly, in the afternoon, the old man came as
+commanded; but instead of delivering the expected communication, he
+said that we should certainly inspect the books to-morrow; and in
+the mean time, the sultan would thank us to sell him some
+gunpowder, and whatever red cloth we might<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_44">[44]</span> have left. This refinement in begging, or in
+other words, this mean rapaciousness on the part of the sultan, was
+never more apparent than in this instance. He had previously
+requested us to sell him a quantity of beads, &amp;c., to which he
+expressed a wish that we should affix our own price. We did so; but
+on applying for payment, he has uniformly returned for answer, that
+we had asked too large a sum for those articles. Notwithstanding
+this, we gave the Arab the powder and red cloth which he had
+requested in the name of his master, with a message that the sultan
+was at liberty to give whatever he thought proper for them.
+Instead, however, of returning us the money, he has kept the goods
+without making the slightest acknowledgment; and sent an eunuch in
+the evening to beg a few needles, which of course it would be
+impolitic to refuse.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, July 5th.</em>—It has rained very heavily all day,
+insomuch that on our parts we could not visit the sultan, nor could
+a messenger come from him to us.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, July 6th.</em>—This forenoon we sent Paskoe with a
+message to the sultan, that we earnestly wished to receive a final
+and decisive answer with regard to the restoration of Mr. Park’s
+papers, which we declared to have been the sole object of our
+visiting him, and that it was our desire to quit Yàoorie
+immediately. This bold, and to us unusual<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_45">[45]</span> language, seemed to have surprised and
+startled the sultan, and he instantly despatched the old Arab to
+inform us, that ‘he declared to G—d, in the most solemn manner,
+that he had never had in his possession, nor seen, any books or
+papers of the white travellers that perished at Boossà.’ The Arab
+likewise assured us that we were at liberty to proceed on our
+journey whenever we should think proper. Thus, notwithstanding all
+the false hopes which the sultan artfully held out to us, that Mr.
+Park’s papers were actually in his possession, his letter to
+Captain Clapperton, which expressly stated this to be the case, and
+the pitiful shuffling which he has displayed to keep us so long in
+suspense with respect to any true information, it appears then,
+without doubt, that he has not, and never has had, a single book or
+paper in the English language. His only motive for the dastardly
+conduct he has displayed, could have been neither more nor less
+than the hope of getting us into his power by misrepresentation and
+falsehood, in order to obtain some of the European articles which
+we had in our possession. That the sultan has succeeded so well
+with us has not been our fault entirely; but even now he is by no
+means satisfied, nor is it likely that he will be whilst we remain
+with him. It is a satisfaction at least for us to know that the
+long-sought papers are at present no where in existence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span><em>Wednesday,
+July 7th.</em>—Yàoorie is a large, flourishing, and united kingdom.
+It is bounded on the east by Hàussa, on the west by Borgoo, on the
+north by Cubbie, and on the south by the kingdom of Nouffie. The
+crown is hereditary, and the government an absolute despotism. The
+former sultan was deposed by his subjects for his violent measures
+and general bad conduct; and the present ruler, who succeeded him,
+has reigned for the long period of thirty-nine years. The sultan
+has a strong military force, which has successfully repelled, it is
+said, the repeated attacks which the ever-restless Falàtahs for a
+number of years past made on the city and kingdom of Yàoorie; it is
+now employed in a remote province in quelling a rising
+insurrection, occasioned partly from the inability of the natives
+to pay their accustomed tribute, and partly from the harsh measures
+adopted by the sultan to compel them to do so. The city of Yàoorie
+is of prodigious extent, and is supposed to be as populous as any
+other in the whole continent, or at least that part of it which is
+visited by the trading Arabs. Its wall is high and very excellent,
+though made of clay alone, and may be between twenty and thirty
+miles in circuit; and it has eight vast entrance-gates or doors,
+which are well fortified after the manner of the country. The
+inhabitants manufacture a very coarse and inferior sort of
+gunpowder, which,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>
+however, is the best, and we believe the only manufactory of the
+kind in this part of the country; besides which they make very neat
+saddles, country cloth, &amp;c.; and they grow indigo, tobacco,
+onions, wheat, and different kinds of grain; and vast quantities of
+rice, of superior quality. The inhabitants have likewise horses,
+bullocks, goats, &amp;c., but notwithstanding their industry and
+the advantages which they enjoy, they are very poorly clad, have
+little money, and are perpetually complaining of their bad
+condition. An indifferent market is held in the city daily under
+commodious sheds, in which the above articles are offered for
+sale.</p>
+
+<p>The better sort of women, or those that can afford time and
+money for the purpose, wear their hair plated very ingeniously, and
+dyed blue with indigo; their lips are likewise stained yellow and
+blue, which gives them an inexpressibly odd appearance; and their
+eyes are blackened with powdered antimony, or something of the same
+nature and properties, which is imported from a place called
+<em>Jacoba</em>. This is in general use, not only here, but in
+every other place which we have visited.</p>
+
+<p>The use of hennah is as general at Yàoorie as elsewhere; the
+more opulent females make use of this most beautiful dye in
+profusion: they simply apply the pounded leaves of this plant to
+the teeth, and to the finger and toe nails; for the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> latter it is made into a kind of
+poultice, and in the evening is put on those parts, and remains
+till next morning. The poorer sort of females, however, from
+necessity, we suppose, rather than from inclination, make use of
+neither of these ornaments to enhance their natural charms; and,
+save tattooing, they have no personal embellishments whatever.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan’s residence, as well as the houses of many of the
+principals inhabitants of the city, are two stories in height,
+having thick and clumsy stairs of clay leading to the upper
+apartments, which are rather lofty; and, together with rooms on the
+ground-floor, have door-ways sufficiently large to enable a person
+to enter them without putting himself to the inconvenience of
+stooping. The principal part of the houses are built in the
+circular or coozie fashion, but the inhabitants have a few square
+ones; and the sultan’s are of no regular form whatever. It may be
+considered somewhat singular that the generality of the natives of
+western and central, and, we believe, also of northern Africa,
+‘moisten the floors of their huts and the inside of their walls
+with a solution of cow-dung and water, two or three times a day, or
+as often as they can find the materials.’ ‘Though disagreeable to
+the smell of an European, this keeps the interior of a dwelling as
+cool as it is dark.’ We should have<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_49">[49]</span> thought that Dr. Johnson, from whom this
+quotation is taken, was speaking of the native dwellings of this
+part of the world, instead of those of the East Indies, so exactly
+does he describe them.</p>
+
+<p>Between the clusters or assemblages of huts in Yàoorie there is
+a considerable quantity of fertile land, which is left for cattle
+to graze on, or for the purposes of husbandry and agriculture.</p>
+
+<p>There is a great variety of trees within the walls of the city,
+consisting of the lime, the palm, the mi-cadania, and the date; but
+the latter, though it appears very luxuriant, never was known to
+bear fruit. The palm tree adorns the banks of the Niger, and
+increases in quantity the further we advance up the river; yet that
+variety of it which bears the cocoa-nut is nowhere to be seen,
+owing, most likely, to the distance from the sea. For a reason,
+already given in a preceding part of this Journal, no proper
+estimation can be formed of the number of inhabitants which Yàoorie
+contains, but it is surprisingly great.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday and Friday, July 8th and 9th.</em>—During both
+these days we have been honoured with long visits from the sultan’s
+daughters, eldest son, and sister; the faces of the former are
+familiar, because they come to see us every day. The old Arab also
+visited us on Thursday morning, to pay his respects, according to
+his custom; but when he entered the apartment and discovered
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> heir apparent in
+conversation with us, he seemed surprised and displeased, and
+immediately ordered the young man to quit the apartment with his
+suite, which was instantly obeyed by the prince, without a syllable
+of complaint or disapprobation at this peremptory command. We
+subsequently desired an explanation of such arbitrary conduct on
+the part of the Arab, and he informed us, in answer, that it was
+done in order to prevent the young man from soliciting us for
+poison, which he might employ in the destruction of his father’s
+life,—so suspicious are the sovereigns of this country of the
+intentions of even their own children.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan has sent to inform us that he will be occupied three
+days in writing to the king of England an explanation of his
+conduct with respect to Mr. Park’s papers; and he would therefore
+thank us to remain in Yàoorie till the expiration of that
+period.</p>
+
+<p>A <em>fatàkie</em>, which left this city for Koolfu this
+(Friday) morning, had orders from the sultan to return while they
+were on their journey; and they accordingly re-entered Yàoorie in
+the afternoon. It is reported that the ringleader of the insurgents
+in <em>Engarski</em>, the province in which the customary tribute
+was refused to be paid, left the rebels a short time ago to fight
+for themselves, and fled to the kingdom of Nouffie. On his arrival
+he besought<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> the Magīa
+to assist him against the soldiers of Yàoorie, and succeeded so
+far, that assistance was promised him by the Nouffie king; but as
+soon as this news had reached Engarski, the sultan’s soldiers all
+deserted their posts, and returned to him without delay. Both these
+days the men have been entering the city; and they have brought
+with them only between forty and fifty slaves. This is the reason
+that the fatàkie were stopped on their way to Koolfu; and in all
+probability, if the news be true, it will likewise affect our
+journey thither.</p>
+
+<p>This evening the war-drum was sounded outside the sultan’s
+house; the noise of which is not peculiarly loud or dissonant, and
+is a much more <em>civilized</em> kind of sound than the startling
+war-cry of the people of Yarriba and Borgoo. The sultan has just
+sent word that he wishes to see us to-morrow morning concerning the
+price of the red cloth which he recently purchased of us; and at
+the same time he desires to see a specimen of each kind of button
+in our possession, because he has a great inclination to purchase a
+quantity, or the whole of them, for the use of himself and family.
+By the man that brought us this message, he sent us, for the first
+time, a number of goora nuts, alleging, as an excuse for not
+offering us any before, that he did not imagine that Christians
+liked them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span><em>Saturday, July
+10th.</em>—Horse-soldiers are continuing to arrive by one and two
+at a time from Engarski, and the dead body of one of their captains
+has likewise been brought into the city. This individual came by
+his death in rather a mysterious manner, insomuch, that the public
+opinion is divided on the subject; some saying that he fell by an
+arrow, and others asserting with equal confidence that he was
+poisoned by his wife, who, after the consummation of her crime,
+fled to the embraces of an Arab who had been her lover before her
+marriage with the deceased.</p>
+
+<p>During the war, which has continued these four months, the loss
+on the part of Yàoorie has been about a half-dozen men killed, and
+the slaughter on the part of the rebels, it is said, has been no
+less. This sanguinary contest is a specimen of their warfare, so
+that there will never be any great danger of depopulation from
+foreign wars or domestic broils.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan has been shut up in his house all day, and will not
+be spoken to, owing to the ill-success of the Engarski expedition;
+but though this circumstance is publicly known, the inhabitants of
+the city have shown no inclination to mourn with their sovereign;
+on the contrary, they have been employed in making a
+‘<em>berka</em>’ (blessing) for the safe return of the warriors,
+and feasting, rejoicing, and merriment were freely indulged
+in,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> this evening, in
+consequence. In the midst of their jollity, however, the people
+were thrown into confusion by a rumour, that the ‘clashing of arms’
+was heard in Koolfu,’ or in other words, that preparations were
+making in that city for a <em>great</em> war; that Falàtahs and
+Nouffie men were assembling there from all quarters; and that they
+were on the eve of making a fierce attack either on Wowow or the
+metropolis of Engarski; but which of these cities is to be devoted
+to destruction no one can tell. Groupes of people are expressing
+their hopes and fears in whispers, in every part of the city.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, July 11th.</em>—Having been sent for, I visited the
+sultan to-day with a piece of red cloth, two pair of scissors, a
+quantity of buttons, and a canister of powder. When introduced, I
+found him cheerful and merry, and his good humour continued
+throughout our interview. He observed, that the war which was just
+terminated had cost him a great deal of money, so that he regretted
+his inability to pay so large a sum for the articles as I had
+demanded. At length, after a little civil contention on both sides,
+a bargain was made, by the sultan’s agreeing to give twenty-five
+thousand cowries for the powder, scissors, and red cloth, and two
+hundred cowries for every <em>little</em> button that we have,
+which he prefers to the larger ones. Four hundred were
+asked;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> but as these
+little buttons are the commonest sort, and have been besides much
+worn, I did not long hesitate in acceding to his terms. In allusion
+to our departure, the sultan observed, that the path was dangerous,
+but when the obstacles should be removed, which would doubtless be
+in a few days, and when his letter to the monarch of England should
+be written, we might quit the city without further delay, for which
+intelligence I thanked him and took my leave.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan sent us a large ostrich a day or two ago, to look at,
+and subsequently offered to give it to us, but as this immense bird
+would require two or three men to take care of him on the road
+homewards, we declined to take him, and could only thank the sultan
+for his intended kindness.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, July 12th.</em>—Nothing of consequence has occurred
+to-day in the city. The greater part of the morning was employed in
+cleaning and polishing the buttons promised to the sultan, who had
+sent for them before they were finished. Two or three of his
+daughters are our daily visitors, and they trifle a good deal of
+their time away in our company. They sometimes bring with them a
+pleasant intoxicating liquor called ‘booza’ (a kind of beer), which
+they offer us to drink; but they contrive to get tipsy with it
+themselves. These ladies are occasionally so<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_55">[55]</span> troublesome, that we are obliged to
+frighten them away with our pistols.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, July 13th.</em>—The ‘great war,’ for which there
+was said to have been such mighty preparations in Nouffie, and
+which caused so much consternation in this city an evening or two
+ago, has terminated in the capture of a herd of the king of Wowow’s
+bullocks near the walls of his town. The plunderers, it is said,
+were incited to undertake this predatory excursion, by the
+representations of that wicked and turbulent woman, widow Zuma,
+through the agency of her son, who, since his elopement from Wowow,
+has been residing in some part of Nouffie. The widow imagined that
+she was not safe in Boossà, after this malicious act, and she left
+that city and fled to a town in the province of Engarski. But the
+governor refused her his protection, and sent her back again to
+Boossà with an escort; and the king, in all probability, will
+either deliver her into the hands of the monarch of Wowow, in which
+case she will lose her head, or he will have her severely punished
+at Boossà.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan told us to-day in plain and decisive terms, that he
+can send us neither by way of Koolfu nor Guârie, because the
+Falàtahs, he affirms, are in both those places. He wishes, however,
+to be expressly understood, that it is from no disinclination on
+his part to send us to either<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_56">[56]</span> of those places, but that his great regard
+for us will not permit him to lead us into danger. Now we know very
+well that the Falàtahs have neither the upper hand at Koolfu nor
+Guarie. The natives of the latter state in particular, not long
+since cut off the heads of all the Falàtahs that could be found in
+their country, and from that time they have enjoyed the most
+perfect independence. The sultan of Yàoorie said further, that the
+best thing he could do was to send us back again to Boossà, and
+from thence he was sure we might have liberty to go any where. The
+moment we found that this was his intention, we returned to our
+house, and having formed our resolution, we instantly dispatched
+one of our men with a message to the king of Boossà, to the
+following effect:</p>
+
+<p>‘That finding our presents insufficient to defray our expenses
+on the road to Guarie and Bornou, we were under the necessity of
+returning to the salt-water, to obtain more. That the chief of
+Badágry, who is governor of that part of the coast, at which we had
+landed, had treated us so very ill, while we were with him, that he
+would detain us in his town for the remainder of our lives, if we
+were to return by the way we had come, and by so doing that we
+should be unable to avoid falling into his power. Besides which,
+the journey thither is so long, that we should
+experience<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> the same,
+or even greater inconvenience, than if we were to proceed to Bornou
+through Catsheenah. Under these circumstances, we were extremely
+desirous of travelling to the salt-water by a shorter and safer
+route, and would therefore prefer going by Funda, as the easiest
+and likeliest means of accomplishing that end. But as we had heard
+that the road to that kingdom by land is infested with Falàtahs,
+who live by plunder and violence, we should feel infinitely obliged
+to him (the king of Boossà), if he could either sell or lend us a
+canoe to proceed thither by water; and if so, that we would
+remunerate him to the utmost of our ability.’</p>
+
+<p>We sent away the messenger this morning on his errand, and shall
+await his return with considerable anxiety. If an unfavourable
+answer be returned, we are resolved, instead of proceeding to
+Boossà, to proceed on to Guarie, and thence to Funda, as we
+originally intended, whatever may be the consequence.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, July 14th.</em>—We were favoured with visits this
+morning from several respectable females, the wives and daughters
+of a number of distinguished chiefs, whom they had accompanied to
+the late war. The inhabitants of this place, as well as of many
+other towns, are of opinion that it is in our power to cure every
+disorder under the sun. Applications are daily made to us for
+medicine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> to cure a
+variety of complaints; and more than one married lady has been
+intreating us to remove the cause of barrenness from them. Other
+requests, equally serious and equally absurd, have been made, with
+which of course it is wholly out of our power to comply; but the
+applicants do not readily believe our assertions, nor can we induce
+or compel them to leave our house till something in the shape of
+medicine has been given them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, July 15th.</em>—Falàtahs, it is said, have
+pillaged and burnt the city of Engarski, and taken Koolfu, so that
+the road to Boossà is also for the present denied us. These
+‘setters up and pullers down of kings,’ for some reason, are
+offended with the Magīa, the present monarch of Nouffie, and have
+determined to appoint his elder brother, the exiled Ederesa, as
+ruler in his stead. Several revolutions have already taken place in
+Nouffie, through the instrumentality of these ambitious Falàtahs,
+which have all terminated in the confusion of the greater part of
+that distracted country, and to the advancement of their deadliest
+foes, who have now gained a footing in the land.</p>
+
+<p>We have been repeatedly informed that Ederesa succeeded his
+father in the government of Nouffie, and was acknowledged their
+legitimate monarch by the whole nation. A rebellion, however,,
+headed by the Magīa, (Ederesa’s younger brother,)<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> broke out shortly after his
+accession; and to aid his ambitious designs upon the liberties of
+the people, the former made a journey to Soccatoo, to request the
+assistance of Bello. This wily chief eagerly seized so fair an
+opportunity of promoting the interests of his country, by meddling
+with the domestic policy of the government of Nouffie; he had
+wisdom enough to foresee the advantages which would in all
+probability accrue to him, by granting the Magīa his request, and
+taking him under his protection; and he immediately reinforced the
+rebels by a choice body of soldiers. This first civil war was not
+of long continuance; Ederesa’s army was defeated by the mercenary
+troops and their adherents; the whole country was soon overrun and
+subjugated by these soldiers; Ederesa was obliged to flee from his
+dominions, and the Magīa governed Nouffie in his stead. The chief
+benefits resulting to Bello from the success of the rebels, were a
+half-yearly tribute which the Magīa agreed to pay him, in slaves,
+and handsome tobes of native manufacture; and what was of more
+consequence, he gained a footing for his people in a flourishing
+and beautiful kingdom, which may be styled the granary of this part
+of the continent.</p>
+
+<p>The Falàtah soldiers remained in Nouffie to defend and support
+the interests of the new king; but<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_60">[60]</span> the country did not long enjoy peace and
+tranquillity, for the foreigners observing their influence and
+numbers considerably augmenting, found occasion to quarrel with the
+Magīa, which was the occasion of another civil war. Turning from
+him whom they had elevated to the throne, they recalled Ederesa,
+and succeeded, after an ineffectual resistance on the part of his
+brother, in restoring him to the dignity, of which they themselves
+had so eagerly stripped him only a short time before. Ederesa
+subsequently formed the patriotic and laudable resolution of
+expelling these dangerous and intriguing strangers from his
+dominions; for he was convinced that his country would never be at
+peace whilst they were suffered to remain in it. No sooner,
+however, did he set about putting this project into execution, than
+his watchful brother raised a party in opposition to it, and the
+Falàtahs of course flew to his assistance. The fruit of this
+combination was the total defeat of the king’s party, and the
+re-institution of the Magīa into his former usurped rights.
+Meantime the Falàtahs increased fast in Nouffie, they inhabited
+towns which they had not built, and subsisted by the labour of
+others. The head of their party was a cousin of Bello, named Mallam
+Dendo, who resided on the banks of the Niger, in a large city of
+his own, which is called <em>Rabba</em>. He and the
+Magīa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> divided the
+sovereignty of the kingdom between them till very recently, and
+remained at peace with each other; but now, they say, there has
+been a third quarrel, and the Falàtahs have taken possession of
+Koolfu, till Ederesa shall have been made acquainted with the
+revolution in his favour. The Magīa is too helpless and
+insignificant to offer the slightest resistance to this intended
+change in his estate, and is living in retirement at a town about a
+day and a half’s journey from Koolfu. These domestic broils have
+been very prejudicial to the interests of Nouffie, and the people
+greatly lament their misfortunes. The Falàtahs are the only gainers
+by them; they are now in actual possession of more than half of the
+kingdom, and have enslaved a very large portion of its industrious
+population. Some of the finest and most opulent of their towns have
+been sacked and destroyed, and others they have taken for
+themselves. In this distracted state of affairs, Nouffie, whose
+inhabitants, it is everywhere acknowledged, are the most ingenious
+and industrious in all these parts, is fast falling to decay, and
+is become a prey to all manner of abuses, and to every species of
+crime.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, July 16th.</em>—Although the Falàtahs have been so
+successful in Nouffie, and are gradually spreading themselves
+throughout the countries composing Western Africa, so as to be
+near<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> the sea, where
+it is the great object of their ambition to get, they have within
+this year or two suffered many defeats, and lost much ground in
+Hàussa, which is the scene of their first operations, and they are
+likely to lose much more. The following are the names of the
+kingdoms or states which form the country called Hàussa. With the
+exception of <em>Kotonkora</em> and <em>Womba</em>, they were all
+conquered by Danfodid shortly after his first appearance with the
+Falátahs; but those marked with an asterisk have regained their
+independence since his decease. That marked with an F. is now in
+the occupation of the conquerors; and those with F. and H. partly
+belong to the Falátahs and partly to the original natives.
+Catsheenah was the head or principal state, and all the others used
+to pay a small tribute to its sovereign.</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t062">
+<tr>
+<td>1. Catsheenah,</td>
+<td>F. H.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>2. Cubbie,</td>
+<td>*</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>3. Guarie,</td>
+<td>*</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>4. Zumfra,</td>
+<td>F. H.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>5. Kano,</td>
+<td>F.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>6. Gober,</td>
+<td>*</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>7. Kotonkora,</td>
+<td>Natives.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>8. Womba,</td>
+<td>Natives.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Catsheenah, the capital of Hàussa, in the state or kingdom of
+Catsheenah, together with an insignificant town, are the only two
+places at present in the possession of the Falátahs in that
+country. Soccatoo stands on the extreme borders of Cubbie, yet it
+is not considered as being in that province.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of Guarie lately rose simultaneously,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> and cut off their oppressors to
+a man, nor has Bello yet been able to revenge their loss.</p>
+
+<p><em>Zulamee</em>, and other towns of consideration in Zumfra,
+have within these few months been retaken from the Falátahs.
+Properly speaking, the province of Kano is in Hàussa; but previous
+to its conquest by the Falátahs, it had, from time immemorial, been
+tributary to Bornou, so that it is considered by many as belonging
+to that empire. The inhabitants of the city and state of Gober,
+against which Bello was directing all his power at the period of
+Captain Clapperton’s last visit to Soccatoo, have successfully
+resisted every attack that has been made against them, and are now
+enjoying tranquillity and independence. Doncassà, who is the
+present king of Catsheenah, resides at a place called
+<em>Maràdie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Doncassà is the hereditary prince of Hàussa, and notwithstanding
+his former misfortunes and reverses, he is still very powerful, and
+his strength daily increases. The Sheikh of Bornou assists him with
+men and horses; and his son is also with him, fighting against the
+common enemy. Doncassà, it is said, can bring no less than forty
+thousand horsemen into the field at one time. Recently his military
+operations have been attended with better success; and Bello,
+despairing of vanquishing him and of subjugating the whole of his
+country, is turning his thoughts to the conquest<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> of Yarriba. His soldiers have
+already spread a panic through that kingdom, and frightened the
+timid natives out of two or three of their most important towns,
+and they will have very little difficulty in depriving them of the
+whole. It is said that after the rains the Falátah monarch will
+send a strong military force to complete the conquest of Yarriba,
+and that experienced captains are already nominated to accompany
+the expedition. In the mean time Bello is at war with Bornou and
+some of the states of Hàussa; and many thousands of his men,
+fearing no law, and having no ostensible employment, are scattered
+over the whole face of the country. They commit all sorts of
+crimes; they plunder, they burn, they destroy, and even murder, and
+are not amenable to any earthly tribunal for their actions.</p>
+
+<p>The boasted good government of Bello does not extend beyond the
+precincts of Soccatoo. In other parts of his empire the civil
+department of his administration is most wretchedly conducted, and
+hence the predatory bands of Falátahs which annually go forth to
+ravage the country.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, July 17th.</em>—The sultan’s daughters are very
+numerous; and in accordance with the usual custom of the country,
+we have been obliged to make them a present of a button, or a
+string of beads, or some such trifle. Many of these
+ladies<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> are not very
+young, for they have passed the meridian of life; but
+notwithstanding their seniority, they have had bitter disputes and
+quarrels with their sisters for the fancied better place which the
+latter have in our good graces, and the consequent kinder treatment
+which they have experienced at our hands. A breach is thus made in
+the affections of the royal sisters towards each other, and it may
+be years before domestic harmony is re-established among them. One
+or other of these females complains to us every day of having been
+engaged in wrangling or fighting with a sister, on the score of
+jealousy; and we are obliged to muster all our patience and condole
+with them in their little misfortunes, without, however, having the
+ability to relieve them. The Arab, who appears to be the sultan’s
+factotum, came to see us this morning, agreeably to his usual
+practice; and with joy sparkling in his countenance, he informed us
+that his master had been inquiring for a canoe in which we may
+return to Boossà. We wished to know when the sultan would be
+inclined to give us permission to leave Yàoorie. ‘What,’ said he,
+‘is not the news I have told you sufficient for one day?’</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs in this place (Yàoorie) and all those that have passed
+through the city since our arrival in it, who have had no connexion
+whatever with each other, have assured us that the Niger flows
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> a place called
+<em>Musser</em> (query <em>Mesr</em>), where silks and other fine
+articles are manufactured, and that the natives of that country
+trade to Timbuctoo in large vessels, carrying thither their silks
+and manufactures.</p>
+
+<p>We have neither been able to ascertain the European name of
+<em>Musser</em>, nor its distance from Timbuctoo; we can only learn
+that the space between the two cities is very great indeed.</p>
+
+<p>In this part of Africa not the slightest jealousy exists in
+respect to the Niger or any other river, for the people cheerfully
+answer every inquiry concerning what they may happen to know of its
+course, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, July 18th.</em>—Our man has not yet returned from
+Boossà, and nothing has taken place to-day worthy of observation or
+remark.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, July 19th.</em>—The premises which we occupy are
+situated at the northern end of the city, and are the property of
+one of the sultan’s married daughters, who, with her family,
+accompanied her husband to the late war, and returned from thence
+only a few days ago.</p>
+
+<p>They form a little circular enclosure of huts, one of which is
+two stories high; and it has the convenience of three small yards,
+in which is good stabling for the horses. From the distance of time
+which elapsed after the departure of the sultan’s warlike daughter
+to the period of our arrival at<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_67">[67]</span> Yàoorie, the houses had fallen fast to decay,
+so that when we were introduced into them, one or two of the roofs
+were entirely wanting, and the rain, which fell daily, was freely
+admitted into all the remainder for want of repair, that with two
+stories alone being an exception. For our own comfort, therefore,
+we took possession of the upper room of this hut, which is a long,
+narrow, and gloomy apartment, having a solid clay floor, and five
+or six small apertures, like pigeon-holes, for the purpose of
+admitting light and air.</p>
+
+<p>As we have been unable, from the almost constant rain and the
+marshy nature of the soil of Yàoorie, to walk abroad, this room has
+been, in a great measure, our prison, for we have rarely stirred
+out of it. During the first few days and nights after our arrival
+we were pretty comfortable, and, every thing considered, we liked
+our quarters tolerably well; but an envious wind having blown a
+swarm of mosquitoes into our apartment, we have ever since been
+deprived of sleep at night. And as if this were not an evil
+sufficiently annoying, we are likewise visited by myriads of gnats,
+cockroaches, black ants, &amp;c.; besides a number of bats, which
+flutter even in our faces, and cause us much uneasiness. Other
+descriptions of animals and insects intrude into our apartment in
+the night season, which however do not molest us. Under this
+pressure of grievances, my brother and I,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_68">[68]</span> finding it impossible to sleep, either sit up
+or lie awake, and employ ourselves in doling away the long and
+wearisome hours of the night in chatting about indifferent matters,
+or in reading aloud, by lamp-light, some moral or religious work.
+As soon as the light or dawn of the morning penetrates our dismal
+chamber, our tormentors cease to molest us, and we generally find
+this the most favourable time for procuring a little sleep. But
+then the whole world is awake and abroad; and human visitors, whose
+society is scarcely less tolerable than the visitation of our
+nightly companions, intrude their unwelcome persons on our sleeping
+moments, and compel us to listen and answer to their vexatious
+nonsense. Deprived of our natural rest, the day is spent with
+scarcely more enjoyment than the night;—we are heavy, languid,
+peevish, and uncomfortable, and wholly unfit for exertion of any
+kind. The happy freedom from such torture as this in Old England,
+can only be appreciated by those who have experienced it; even an
+hour of such relief now would be worth more than we could
+express.</p>
+
+<p>This forenoon our Boossà messenger returned, and, to our
+unspeakable joy, informed us that the king had consented to procure
+for us a canoe, to proceed to Funda, provided the road by land
+could not be depended on. He candidly stated, however, his
+inability to protect our persons from insult<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_69">[69]</span> and danger beyond his own territories; and
+that we must solicit the good-will of the prince of Wowow and the
+other rulers on the banks of the Niger; and further, that our own
+men alone must manage the canoe, because no one at Boossà would be
+willing, for various reasons, to accompany us in this journey. We
+are therefore in a fair way of accomplishing the object of the
+expedition; and though we are convinced that we shall be beset with
+dangers from the shore, yet we are in high spirits, and humbly hope
+that, by attending to the necessary precautions, we shall be able
+to overcome them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, July 20th.</em>—The news of the day is very
+agreeable to all ranks of the good people of this city. A body of
+Falátahs, amounting to about two hundred in number, which left
+Koolfu a few days since for the purpose of attacking Engarski, or
+rather the remains of that body, returned yesterday morning to that
+town, having been completely unsuccessful in the object of their
+expedition, owing to the jealousy and apprehension of the rebels.
+It appears, that whilst they were besieging an insignificant
+<em>Cumbrie town</em> in the above province, a contagious disease
+broke out among them, and reduced fifty of their number to a state
+of the greatest misery and helplessness. The remainder, becoming
+alarmed at this frightful disorder, fled with the utmost
+precipitation, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>
+left their sick and languid companions to the mercy of their
+enemies, who, however, showed them none, for as soon as they became
+acquainted with the departure of their besiegers, a number of them
+came out armed, and with savage coolness deliberately cut off the
+heads of their helpless and prostrate foes, and immediately
+despatched intelligence of the bloody exploit to the sultan of
+Yàoorie. The road to Boossà is by this means once more declared to
+be open, and we shall leave hence as soon as we receive permission.
+The sultan has not yet paid the money he owed us, nor, since the
+sale of the buttons, &amp;c., have we heard a single sentence about
+the matter. Our cowries, likewise, are nearly expended; and for
+this fortnight past we have depended for subsistence on Paskoe’s
+success in shooting. Happily, Guinea-fowl, of the most delicious
+flavour, and large doves, abound here in amazing numbers; and a
+large species of wild duck, besides geese, cranes, widgeons,
+herons, and other aquatic fowl, are most plentiful.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, July 21st.</em>—Last night we were visited by an
+awful and terrible tornado, which lasted for two or three hours. It
+commenced about midnight with a gust of wind which threatened to
+overturn our dwelling-house. Never since we have been in the
+country have we heard thunder so loud and tremendous, nor seen
+lightning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> so
+excessively vivid. Our hut rocked as if it had been shaken by an
+earthquake, and we were in momentary apprehension of its falling
+with us to the ground; the tempest however became less and less
+violent in the midst of our fears, and soon after it ceased
+altogether, and an universal stillness prevailed.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the wet weather and the moist state of the atmosphere,
+most of our friends the sultan’s daughters have caught slight
+colds, and they have been very importunate to-day in their
+entreaties for medicine. We hardly knew what to give them to ease
+their complaints, and we hesitated a good deal about complying with
+their wishes; but as they are not very delicate ladies, being stout
+withal, and masculine as Hercules, we at length resolved to risk
+the consequences, and accordingly administered to each of them a
+powerful dose of jalap.</p>
+
+<p>The Falátahs in Nouffie are thrown into the utmost consternation
+by the reported death of their chief and leader, Mallam Dendo,
+which is said to have taken place at Rabba two or three days ago.
+The deceased was much esteemed by Bello, and reverenced by his
+countrymen. A successor will be immediately appointed, to
+counteract any fresh disturbance which may take place in the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The sultan of this place puts off our departure from day to day,
+and from week to week, under a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_72">[72]</span> variety of nonsensical excuses; and we are
+persuaded that it is his intention to detain us here till he has
+drained us of everything we have.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, July 26th.</em>—For the last five days my brother
+has been laid up with intermittent fever, which totally
+disqualified him from making the slightest exertion whatever till
+this morning. The sultan continuing, day after day, for so long a
+time to refuse his permission for us to quit Yàoorie, on grounds
+the most inconsistent and contradictory that can be imagined, we
+became rather apprehensive that he would detain us for an
+indefinite period—much longer indeed than might suit our
+convenience: but to-day, to our surprise and pleasure, a messenger
+from the king of Boossà arrived in this city to ascertain the
+reason of such unwarrantable conduct on the part of the sultan, and
+to request our immediate release, so that it is supposed we shall
+leave hence in a day or two at the latest. One of the
+<em>inducements</em> urged by this monarch for our longer stay with
+him, is rather whimsical. He has made us a present of a quantity of
+worthless feathers, which he had caused to be plucked from the body
+of a live ostrich; and because he entertained an opinion that if
+others were added to them, they would altogether form a very
+acceptable present to our gracious sovereign, he informed us that
+it would be necessary we should wait till such time as the
+ostrich<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> should regain
+its plumage, in order for that part of its body which had not been
+previously plucked to undergo a similar operation; for the weather,
+he asserted, was much too cold for the bird to lose all its
+feathers at one and the same time. And further, to encourage their
+growth, he would order that two thousand cowries worth of butter
+(about twelve pounds weight) should be diligently rubbed into the
+skin of the animal. This money has actually been deducted by the
+sultan, for this express purpose, from the sum which he was
+indebted to us, because he said he did not approve of paying for
+the butter from his own pocket.</p>
+
+<p>When a person entertains fear or suspicion of the intentions of
+another towards him, it very commonly happens that every little
+thing which he might have heard unfavourable to the character, or
+prejudicial to the manners of the latter at any former period,
+rises fresh in his memory, though he might have taken no notice of
+it at the time, and leads to the establishment and confirmation of
+an opinion which had before been unsettled and wavering in his
+mind. This has been very nearly our case in regard to the sultan of
+Yàoorie; and owing most likely to ill health, rather than any other
+cause, we had not only come to a conclusion, before the arrival of
+the Boossà ambassador, that we were in ‘durance vile’ here, but had
+conceived a thousand ways and means of making our<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> escape privately from the city!
+The violent detention of the six Dahoman messengers within the
+walls of Yàoorie for a whole six months, without any cause being
+assigned for it, has already been alluded to in Captain
+Clapperton’s last narrative; and many similar injurious actions on
+the part of the sultan have been related to us by some of his own
+people. But he has been guilty of more treacherous and criminal
+deeds than these both to native merchants and to Arabs who have
+visited this city for the purposes of trade; and the following
+story, if it be true, argues very unfavourably for the monarch’s
+sentiments of feeling, honesty, and justice:—</p>
+
+<p>An Arab, it is said, arrived here many years ago with three
+camel-loads of merchandise from Tripoli, and according to the
+custom of the country he displayed them all before the sultan of
+Yàoorie. His admiration of them was very soon raised, and he
+purchased the whole of the Arab’s goods on credit. The poor
+merchant made repeated and pressing applications for his money, but
+in vain; and month after month, and year after year passed away,
+without his ever having received a farthing, the sultan deceiving
+him with promises continually. The Arab became at length very
+uneasy at the sultan’s prevarication, and imagined that he should
+never receive payment for his goods. He was therefore unable to
+exercise<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> his
+forbearance any longer, but was constrained to demand of his
+creditor the restitution of his property, or the payment of his
+debt, that he might depart from the city and return to his family.
+But the covetous sultan pertinaciously refused his request, and
+sent him away with abuse; and the Arab shortly after died of a
+broken heart, or, as many say, of poison. He left behind him,
+however, at Yàoorie, his eldest son, who had accompanied his father
+hither from Fezzan. This person the sultan deluded with promises
+similar to those by which his father had been deceived; and the
+young man abode in the city several years in the anticipation of
+being able to procure the property which had devolved to him on the
+Arab’s decease. He also died not long ago, and the boy’s uncle
+(Moussa, of Koolfu), who was employed by Captain Clapperton, is now
+the only surviving creditor. He has sent several messengers here
+with the view of having the debt cancelled by the sultan; but up to
+this day the money has never been paid, nor have the Arab’s camels,
+nor any part of his property, been restored to his surviving
+relative.</p>
+
+<p>During our own short stay, even, the sultan has been guilty of
+several petty offences, such as defrauding individuals of small
+sums, and the like; and one poor fellow, belonging to a
+<em>fatàkie</em> from Hàussa, has had the imprudence to let him
+have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> some of his
+property, on the faith of his word, in return for which he has met
+with nothing but promises and refusals. The sultan did, indeed,
+command him to purchase whatever things he might want at the
+market, and refer the seller to him for payment; independent of
+this, as a mark of his favour, he sold the merchant one of his own
+bullocks, which is however found to be diseased and worth nothing.
+By such mean subterfuges does this great prince procure the
+property of others; and in this manner does he treat every merchant
+that may have occasion to pass through the city.</p>
+
+<p>All these circumstances considered, it was with much pleasure
+that we received notice of the king of Boossà’s kind interposition
+in our behalf, which will at least accelerate our departure; for
+though, when soberly considered, the behaviour of the Yàoorie
+monarch towards us has not been on the whole unkind, forming a
+strange compound of generosity and meanness, yet he might have been
+inclined to detain us here till the only favourable moment at which
+we could descend the Niger should have passed away, in which case
+we should have to retrace our steps the way we have come without
+having accomplished the object for which we had left England.</p>
+
+<p>We have now only to arrange matters with this singular old
+chieftain, which we foresee will be no very easy task. It is
+confidently affirmed, that a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_77">[77]</span> canoe has been prepared for us, and two days
+hence, we have little doubt, permission will be granted for us to
+leave this city to return to Boossà.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, July 29th.</em>—The sultan has been complaining
+sadly of poverty these two days, and has begged us to accept a
+female slave of him in lieu of the money he owed us, and which he
+has declared his inability to pay. We hesitated a good deal at
+first about the matter, but we soon felt convinced it would be
+useless to demur, for the sultan was fixed in his determination,
+and we have taken the girl, who is become Paskoe’s wife. This
+unpleasant affair was not settled till this morning, owing to the
+above cause.</p>
+
+<p>We brought a quantity of new shillings with us from England,
+which are vastly admired by all classes of people here, on account
+of their shining property; and whilst the Spanish dollar sells for
+fifteen hundred cowries only, one of these little pieces is
+purchased willingly at a thousand. Each of these coins is attached
+to a ring, and worn on the finger of a lady as an ornament.</p>
+
+<p>Yàoorie has been visited with so much rain lately, that the corn
+is rotting on the stalk, and it is by no means likely that the dry
+weather will commence for some time to come. The corn is fully
+ripe, and only wants a little sun to harden the grain in the ear;
+and the people are sorely<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_78">[78]</span> lamenting that they cannot obtain even this.
+Nevertheless, the rice crops look well, and promise an abundant
+harvest; and the onions, of which vast quantities are grown here,
+are also expected to produce plentifully. At present, Yàoorie is
+little better than a complete swamp; and, if possible, it will be
+worse after the <em>malca</em>, which is daily looked for, shall
+have set in.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, August 1st.</em>—This morning the sultan sent a
+messenger to inform us that we were at liberty to pay our respects
+and take our farewell of him previous to our departure from the
+city, which we have been assured will take place to-morrow without
+any further procrastination or delay. We presently obeyed the
+summons, for such we considered it; and on our arrival at the
+sultan’s residence, we were introduced into a large, gloomy,
+uncomfortable apartment, wherein the monarch generally receives his
+more distinguished visitors. A number of naked girls and boys, his
+domestics, were continually passing through it to other parts of
+the building, carrying dirty calabashes in their hands; a quantity
+of swallows’ nests were attached to the ceiling of the room (for
+neither here nor elsewhere are these birds ever molested), and
+their twittering owners, which were flying about in all directions,
+fed their young without interruption, and added not a little
+filthiness to the unswept and unclean apartment. In<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> the centre and opposite the
+door-way, the ruler of Yàoorie was squatting on a platform, which
+was covered with faded damask, and smoking from a pipe of huge
+dimensions. On each side of him was a large pillow; and behind him,
+affixed to the wall, was a large square piece of ancient-looking
+figured silk, very rich and of various colours, with a beautiful
+deep fringe. It was, however, a little tarnished, owing to the
+length of time it has been in the sultan’s possession. This once
+splendid and valuable article is said to have been brought from the
+celebrated <em>Musser</em><a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, a place of which every one
+here speaks in the most rapturous and extravagant terms. The dress
+of the sultan corresponded with the dirtiness of the apartment.
+Just before our introduction we had been cautioned not to offer to
+shake hands with him, for that would be considered too familiar on
+our parts, and would be rejected by the monarch. Our compliments
+were therefore confined to simple inquiries after his health. The
+conversation during the interview was as uninteresting and
+spiritless as our conversations with other native rulers have
+always been—a description of one being a sample of the whole. The
+most important points were an urgent request on the part of the
+sultan for one of our lancets which he had seen, and the promise of
+a calabash<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> of honey,
+which we received in the evening. We then took our leave and
+returned home. Here we were soon intruded upon by the sultan’s
+daughters and friends, who, finding that we were actually to go on
+the morrow, had come to purchase buttons, beg medicine, and pay
+their last respects; and we were not only subjected to the most
+wearisome and provoking ceremonies in the world during the
+remainder of the Sabbath, but we were likewise compelled to be
+bartering and wrangling with a parcel of noisy women till sunset,
+when we ungallantly drove them away.</p>
+
+<p>During our stay at Yàoorie, the thermometer of Fahrenheit has
+ranged from 75° to 94° in our dwelling.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span><a id=
+"c10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">Leave Yàoorie — Method of watching the Corn — The
+Cumbrie People — their treatment — Sleeping Huts and Spear of the
+Cumbrie — Arrive at Warree — Garnicassa — Ignorance of the Natives
+concerning the course of the River — Their Amusements — Return to
+Boossà — Visit to Wowow recommended — The River consulted by the
+King of Boossà — Kings of this City — Scarcity of Provisions —
+Journey to Wowow — First interview with the King.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Monday, August 2d.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">All</span> was hurry, bustle, noise, and confusion, at a very
+early hour in the morning, in getting our things ready for
+starting; but in spite of our exertions we had to wait a long time
+outside our house, after the beasts had been laden, and our people
+had their burdens on their heads, for the sultan’s long-expected
+letter to our most gracious sovereign. A mallam was at length
+perceived hurrying towards us with it; and after him came, mounted
+on a large bony horse, and extremely well dressed in the costume of
+his country, the venerable Arab chief, to honour us with his
+company a little way on our journey. His appearance was stately and
+patriarchal in the extreme. But this crafty old man was not our
+friend, for he had used us deceitfully, and misrepresented us and
+our goods to his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>
+master; and we had enjoyed an innocent kind of revenge, in
+administering to him, after repeated applications, a powerful dose
+of medicine, which, though harmless in its effects, had yet been
+very troublesome to him. Indeed it was not till we had ‘jalaped’
+the sultan, his sister, and all the royal family, that we were
+permitted to take our farewell of Yàoorie. The city was literally
+covered with water on our passing through it, and the deep hollows
+formed by the rains were very numerous, and dangerous by being
+invisible; nevertheless, with care and patience, we all got outside
+the gates in safety.</p>
+
+<p>It is pleasant, very pleasant, after an imprisonment of five
+weeks in a close, dark, and unwholesome chamber, subject to every
+kind of inconvenience and much anxiety, to be set at liberty; to
+know and feel that one is free; to admire again the beauties of
+God’s creation, and enjoy once more the cheering freshness of the
+country. It is only in health that such feelings can either be
+excited or indulged. Objects ever so charming are looked on with
+indifference by an invalid. For our parts, we had entered Yàoorie
+in sickness, and had suffered much in that city; but we left it in
+all the strength and vigour of health. During our residence there,
+the growth of vegetation had been astonishingly rapid; the face of
+the country wore an aspect entirely different<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_83">[83]</span> and improved; the trees and shrubs had put
+on a greener and lovelier ‘livery;’ the grasses, stunted as they
+were before for want of moisture, had sprung up to the surprising
+height of ten or twelve feet; and the corn and rice had grown up
+with no less vigour.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the reputed badness of the path, that by which we had
+entered Yàoorie was rejected for a more northerly one, leading in
+almost a direct line to the river Cubbie. About a mile or two from
+the walls of Yàoorie, the old Arab stopped suddenly, and we
+imitating his example, he offered up a short though animated
+Mahommedan prayer for our success, and bidding us an affectionate
+farewell, he turned his horse about and returned to the city. In
+the anticipation of journeying to Guârie, we had purchased an ass
+of Ali, the Arab; and this animal, as well as the horses, suffered
+greatly from the attacks of a species of large fly, which is to
+them by day what mosquitoes are to mankind by night; and this evil,
+combined with the ruggedness and inequality of the road, which was
+intercepted by deep and rapid rivulets, caused us much delay and
+annoyance. About mid-day we arrived at the walls of a pretty
+considerable town, called Guàda, and halted near a small creek of a
+river flowing from Cubbie, and entering the Niger a little lower
+down. Here, as soon as we had taken a slight refreshment, we sent
+our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> beasts across the
+Niger to proceed by land to Boossà, and embarked in two canoes,
+which were each paddled by four men. These canoes are about
+eighteen or twenty feet long, and formed from a single log of wood,
+unlike those of Boossà.</p>
+
+<p>When we got into the main body of the Cubbie river, the canoemen
+kept us exposed to the sun for a considerable time, waiting the
+arrival of two companions, because the men with whom we had been
+supplied were unable to manage both canoes by themselves. Though we
+entreated the four men to go a little way with us, or at least to
+convey us into a cool and shady place, which we pointed out to
+them, for protection from the sun’s rays, they would not hearken to
+us; we found scolding, threats, and supplication, to be all equally
+unavailing; they maintained the same calm, yet mortifying placidity
+of countenance, than which in such a case nothing can be more
+vexing. At length we were fain to hold our peace, and patiently
+resigned ourselves to the inconvenience.</p>
+
+<p>The Cubbie river falls into the Niger about four miles from the
+creek where we had embarked; and on entering the Niger, we found it
+running from two to three miles an hour, and with trifling labour
+on the part of the canoemen, we could have journeyed very rapidly;
+but though we had taken on board their two companions, the whole of
+them were so obstinately indolent, that<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_85">[85]</span> we travelled very slowly indeed, insomuch
+that we did not expect to arrive at the appointed halting-place for
+the night. The canoes, however, were passing along almost close to
+the shore, and we saw a woman at the water’s edge who had a
+quantity of cheap country beer for sale, and thinking it might
+animate the men to a little more exertion, we purchased as much as
+they could drink, which in a few minutes completely metamorphosed
+them. The meekness, innocence, and composure of their listless
+countenances soon passed away; their heavy eyes sparkled with fire
+and animation; they trembled all over with anxiety to display their
+strength, dexterity, and vigour; and each being emulous to rival
+his companion, they snatched up their paddles, and by their united
+efforts the canoes glided through the water with inconceivable
+velocity, even to the danger of upsetting. Thus we proceeded down
+the river till the sun had set, and the moon was shining
+beautifully on the water, as we drew near to a small Cumbrie
+village on the borders of the river, where we landed and pitched
+our tent. The thermometer to-day has varied from 75° to 92°.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, August 3d.</em>—Arising at an early hour we shot a
+partridge and Guinea-fowl, and breakfasted in the open air, under
+the intense scrutiny of a hundred bright black eyes; then, striking
+our tent, we hastened to the canoes which we had<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> left secured, and embarked on
+the river while it was yet morning, and the air cool and pleasant.
+Though the lowering appearance of the firmament seemed to betoken a
+violent storm, the black clouds dispersed as the sun gathered
+strength, and he burst out on us, an hour after our departure, with
+peculiar heat and splendour.</p>
+
+<p>On all the borders of the numerous branches of the river, as
+well as on its small islands, vast quantities of corn were growing;
+and it being near the time of harvest, it was nearly ripe, and
+waved over the water’s edge very prettily. Platforms were
+everywhere erected to the height of, or rather above the corn,
+which grows as high as ten or twelve feet. People were stationed on
+these to scare away the numerous flights of small birds, which do
+great mischief, and would, without this precaution, destroy the
+hopes of the cultivator. A boy or girl, and in many cases a woman
+with a child at her breast, and even a whole family together, we
+observed on the platforms, amusing themselves in this manner,
+without the slightest shade or covering of any kind to shelter them
+from the fierceness of the sunbeams. Standing erect and motionless,
+many of them looked like statues of black marble rather than living
+human beings; but others, particularly the women, disregarding
+their duty, were industriously employed in plaiting straw,
+supplying the wants of their children, manufacturing
+mats,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> dressing
+provisions, &amp;c. In order the more effectually to frighten away
+the birds, several of the watchers were furnished with slings and
+stones, in the use of which they seem to be very skilful; besides
+these, pieces of rope were fastened from the platform to a tree at
+some distance, to which large calabashes were suspended, with holes
+in them, through which sticks were passed, so that when the rope is
+pulled they make a loud clattering noise. The calabashes are
+sometimes fastened whole to the rope, containing about a handful of
+stones, which answer the purpose of making a noise when put in
+motion, as well as the sticks. To this is often added the hallooing
+and screaming of the watchers, which is dismal enough to frighten
+an evil spirit, and it rarely fails to produce the desired
+effect.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw4">
+<figure id="i06"><a href="images/i06.jpg"><img src='images/i06.jpg'
+alt='[Illustration: Rope with calabashes]'></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of many of the numerous walled towns and open
+villages on the banks of the Niger, and also of the islands, we
+find are for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> most
+part Cumbrie people—a poor, despised, and abused, but industrious
+and hard-working race. They are but too often oppressed and
+persecuted by their more fortunate and powerful neighbours, who
+affirm that they are fitted by nature only for slaves, and are
+therefore invariably treated by them as such.</p>
+
+<p>The Cumbrie also inhabit many parts of Hàussa and other
+countries; they speak different languages, but they have all the
+same pursuits, superstitions, amusements, and peculiar manners, to
+which they firmly and scrupulously adhere, both in good and bad
+fortune, in sickness and in health, in freedom and slavery, at home
+and in foreign countries, notwithstanding the scorn and derision to
+which it subjects them; and they are known to cherish and maintain
+them to the end of life, with as much pertinacity as the Hebrew
+does his faith and national customs. Inheriting from their
+ancestors a peaceful, timid, passionless, incurious disposition,
+they fall an easy prey to all who choose to molest them; they bow
+their necks to the yoke of slavery without a murmur, and think it a
+matter of course; and perhaps no people in the world are to be
+found who are less susceptible of intense feeling and the finer
+emotions of the human mind, on being stolen away from their
+favourite amusements and pursuits, and from the bosom of their
+wives and families, than<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_89">[89]</span> these Cumbrie people, who are held in such
+general disesteem. Thousands of them reside in the kingdom of
+Yàoorie and its province of Engarski; and most of the slaves in the
+capital have been taken from among them.</p>
+
+<p>The tribute, or rather rent which they pay to the sultan for the
+land they cultivate, consists of a quantity of corn, about the size
+of a bundle as much as a man can carry, for every plot of land,
+whether it be large or small. When, however, the harvest fails,
+they are at liberty to give a certain number of cowries in lieu of
+the accustomed duty of corn. If the poor have no means of paying
+their rent when it becomes due, the sultan immediately despatches a
+body of horsemen to their villages, with a command to seize and
+carry away as many of the people as they may think proper. It
+sometimes happens, however, that the sultan of Yàoorie pulls the
+reins of oppression with too tight a hand; and as cowards, when
+driven to desperation, often give specimens of extraordinary
+courage and resolution, so the negligent and despised Cumbrie,
+writhing under the lash of injuries which they have never deserved,
+defend themselves with extraordinary determination and bravery, and
+not unfrequently come off victorious from the conflict. The benefit
+which results to them from these advantages is an<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> exemption from the payment of
+rent for two or three subsequent years.</p>
+
+<p>During our residence in Yàoorie, an expedition, despatched by
+the sultan for the above purpose, returned unsuccessful from
+Engarski. The most unfavourable trait in the character of the
+Cumbrie is the extreme dirtiness they display in their habits
+generally, from which not one of them appears to be free. They are
+generally considered good agriculturists and expert fishermen: they
+grow abundance of corn and onions, but a great part of the former
+is disposed of to the natives of Boossà and Yàoorie, to whose
+monarchs they are subject. Most of them are rather slovenly about
+their persons, and make use of few ornaments, and even these are of
+the commonest description. They bore immense holes in the lobe of
+the ear for the admission of bits of fine coloured wood; and the
+soft part of the septum of the nose is perforated in like manner,
+through which is thrust a long piece of blue glass. When the
+females have a mind to appear with unusual smartness and effect, a
+crocodile’s tooth is inserted through both lips, and projects
+upwards as far as the nose. These useless, unbecoming, and singular
+ornaments impart to the countenance an unnatural and barbarous
+expression, which is very far from agreeable, and produces an
+unpleasant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> and
+painful emotion in the mind of the beholder. In <em>our</em>
+intercourse with the Cumbrie, they appeared mild, innocent, and
+even amiable in their manners; and they behaved to us with all the
+civility, hospitality, and kindness of their natures, untinctured
+by insincerity or lukewarmness.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw4">
+<figure id="i07"><a href="images/i07.jpg"><img src='images/i07.jpg'
+alt='[Illustration: Sleeping hut of the Cumbrie]'></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The annexed <a href="#i07">sketch</a> is a representation of the
+sleeping huts of these people (Cumbrie), which we alluded to on our
+passage up the river. The doorway, which is the only opening they
+have, is closed by a mat which is suspended inside. They have no
+steps to enter by, but scramble into it as well they can. The
+common coozie hut is used by them for ordinary purposes, such as
+cooking, &amp;c., during the day, but never at night. These
+sleeping huts are about seven or eight feet wide, they are nearly
+circular, are made of clay, and thatched with the palm leaf; they
+are elevated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> above
+the ground so as to secure the inmates from the annoyance of ants,
+snakes, and the wet ground, and even for protection from the
+alligators which prowl about at night in search of prey. We were
+informed of instances where these creatures have carried off the
+legs and arms of natives, who have incautiously exposed themselves
+to their attacks. The huts will hold about half-a-dozen people.
+Sometimes the pillars supporting the hut are walled round, but this
+is not often done, and they generally appear as in the sketch.</p>
+
+<p>The natives frequently kill the alligators by means of a heavy
+spear about ten feet long, like the <a href="#i08">sketch.</a> One
+end is furnished with a heavy piece of iron-wood to give it force,
+and the other with a sharp-pointed barbed iron. It is attached to
+the bow of their canoe by a piece of grass rope, which is fastened
+to the upper end, and is a formidable weapon. A smaller spear of
+the same description is used by these people for killing fish, in
+which occupation they are very expert.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw4">
+<figure id="i08"><a href="images/i08.jpg"><img src='images/i08.jpg'
+alt='[Illustration: Heavy spear]'></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we proceeded down the Niger by a different channel from that
+by which we had ascended it to Yàoorie, we had fresh opportunities
+of remarking the more striking features on its banks. The river, as
+might naturally have been expected, is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_93">[93]</span> much swollen, and its current more impetuous
+than when we passed up on our voyage to Yàoorie; and many of the
+stones and rocks which then annoyed us, are now under water, and
+completely hidden. In the earlier part of the evening we landed at
+a small Cumbrie village, and our canoes were pulled upon a sandy
+beach for the night in security. The thermometer has been at 95°
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, August 4th.</em>—The inhabitants of the village
+wherein we slept last night had nothing to offer us to eat either
+then or this morning; but we had the good fortune to shoot a
+partridge, and we had it dressed for breakfast. But it was, like
+many others, a most unsavoury repast, for we had nothing to eat
+with it, not even a little salt; the people of the village, as well
+as most of their countrymen, making use of a quantity of wood-ashes
+instead, which contain saline particles, because salt is too
+expensive an article for these simple villagers to purchase for
+their own consumption! We had everything conveyed to the canoes at
+an early hour, and at seven o’clock <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>
+we were once more upon the Niger. The canoemen, as well as our own
+people, had forecast and contrivance enough to supply themselves
+with a few ears of Indian corn last night, which they thought
+themselves warranted to pluck from a field at no great distance
+from their sleeping quarters;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_94">[94]</span> yet all of them complained of hunger this
+morning, and left the village in a very ill humour. To satisfy
+their appetites, our canoes were pulled on shore repeatedly during
+the forenoon, for the men to steal some of the corn which overhung
+the margin of the river. They were, however, perceived by the more
+diligent of the watchers, but they did not take any measures to
+prevent them, because they saw that they were the sultan’s
+servants, and the whole of these have the privilege of stealing as
+much corn from the Cumbrie as they may have occasion for. One poor
+man had a canoe laden with new corn, which was pounced upon by
+these hungry plunderers, who compelled its reluctant owner to
+transfer it from his canoe into their own, without remunerating him
+in anywise for the loss he thus sustained. Another individual who
+happened to be in a canoe, was chased a considerable distance down
+the river, under the impression that he had likewise corn with him,
+the robbers endeavouring to palliate their conduct by saying, that
+as the man paid no tribute to the sultan, his effects were at all
+times liable to be seized. The man, however, exerted all his
+strength, and happily succeeded in making his escape.</p>
+
+<p>About noon we observed a herd of Falátah cows grazing on the
+banks of the river; and in the water a little way from them, we saw
+an immense crocodile floating on the surface like a long
+canoe,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> for which it
+was at first mistaken, and watching an opportunity to seize one of
+them and destroy it by dragging it into the river. As soon as he
+was perceived by the canoemen, they paddled as softly as possible
+towards him, intending to wait at a short distance till the
+crocodile should have accomplished his object, when they agreed to
+pull rapidly towards the shore and reap the fruits of the reptile’s
+amazing strength, by scaring him off from his prey, or destroying
+him with harpoons, for the skin of a crocodile is not considered
+impenetrable here. Their intentions, however, were frustrated by
+the sudden disappearance of the crocodile, which dived the moment
+he perceived the canoe so near him, making a loud plashing noise,
+and agitating the water in a remarkable manner in his descent. We
+waited in vain for him to rise again. A very short time after this
+the canoemen landed at <em>Warree</em>, which is the most
+celebrated market town in the dependency of Engarski, and consists
+of several clusters of huts encircled by a dwarf clay wall. The
+market is attended by many thousands of people from different parts
+of the country, besides Yàoorie, Boossà, and Wowow, yet nothing
+peculiar to Engarski is exposed for sale in it; and the cheapness
+at which the productions of the country are disposed of, is most
+likely the principal inducement for buyers to resort<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> to Warree. Vast numbers of
+canoes, filled with people and goods, were passing from one side of
+the Niger to the other during our limited stay outside the town,
+and the countenances of both buyers and sellers betrayed a very
+anxious and business-like expression. As soon as our curiosity was
+fully satisfied, we also crossed over to the Boossà side of the
+river, and landed at a small walled town called
+<em>Garnicassa</em>, which is inhabited by the Cumbrie, and
+situated about five miles north of the city of Boossà. At no great
+distance from this place, and within sight of it, all the branches
+of the Niger meet and form a beautiful and magnificent body of
+water, at least seven or eight miles in width; and it is truly
+astonishing what becomes of it, for at Boossà the river is no more
+than a stone’s throw across, and its depth is in proportion to its
+narrowness. But about an hour’s walk from thence, it again becomes
+a noble river, and maintains its width, it is said, even to Funda.
+This singular fact favours the opinion, that a large portion of the
+waters of the Niger is conveyed by subterraneous passages from the
+town of Garnicassa, to a few miles below Boossà.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after our arrival, when we were making some allusion to
+the river to one of the inhabitants, a Falátah hearing us came
+forward and made the extraordinary assertion, that instead
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> running to Funda,
+it took a turn to the eastward, and disembogued itself into the
+lake Tshad in Bornou. But theories respecting the Niger are even
+more various and contrary in this country, than the hypotheses of
+the learned of Europe on the subject. Scarcely two people are to be
+found that agree in the same opinion, and their suppositions are
+not confined to the course and termination, but include also the
+source of this mysterious river; yet, with all their talk, it is
+easy to perceive that the natives are all entirely ignorant of the
+matter.</p>
+
+<p>The earlier part of the evening, after our arrival at
+Garnicassa, was calm, serene, and delightful; and the silvery moon
+shone with unusual resplendence. It was a favourable time for the
+inhabitants of the town to enjoy themselves; and accordingly they
+were thus employed in good earnest. Singing, dancing, and
+music-playing, are the only divertisements with which the
+generality of the Cumbrie are acquainted; and though this people
+are even more despised than the slothful Hottentots of the southern
+part of the continent,—though their rights are unheeded and their
+liberties abused, yet these considerations do not seem to impress
+them with gloomy reflections; and they trifle away their leisure
+hours in play with as much zest and thoughtless jollity as though
+they were the most favoured people in the world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span>A sudden and
+confused noise of merriment awoke me from a pleasing kind of
+reverie in which I was indulging in the moonshine. I went out
+instantly to ascertain the cause of such obstreperous mirth, and
+discovered a number of young girls, and married women with children
+on their backs, dancing, singing, romping, and clapping their
+hands, after the manner of the country; and a group of their male
+relatives standing beside them as judges and spectators of their
+proceedings. A female would spring suddenly from amidst her
+companions, and after skipping and dancing with great animation
+till she became quite exhausted, would fall backwards into the arms
+of her associates, who, anxiously watching her movements, had put
+themselves into a suitable attitude to receive her. Another would
+then supply her place, and then another, till all the festive party
+had danced in turn; and this amusement was kept up with so much
+spirit, that screams of laughter and other violent tokens of
+delight continued as long as it lasted. The dance (if it deserve
+the name) commenced with the whole of the females, married and
+single. They first formed themselves into a circle, holding fast of
+each other’s arms, and then they moved round very slowly without
+lifting their feet from the ground. This exercise seemed to have
+occasioned them much exertion and difficulty, if we might be
+allowed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> to judge from
+the violent and peculiar manner in which they shook and twisted
+their bodies, as well as from the failure of several of the younger
+girls, who were obliged to quit the ring almost as soon as it was
+formed. This slowness of motion was gradually succeeded by a
+sprightlier movement, till they ran round so swiftly, that the
+circle was suddenly broken, and many of the women were thrown with
+violence to the ground. The singing, or rather screaming, and
+clapping of hands, together with other noises, more vociferous and
+wild than these, were continued till the approach of morning, when
+a heavy shower drove every one home. Nothing, perhaps, in this
+country is more capable of producing a wild, romantic, and pleasing
+effect than such a spectacle as this, and at such a time. In front
+of us lay the celebrated Niger, reflecting from its unruffled
+surface the splendid canopy over our heads, with the radiant clouds
+of departing day. On each side of the river Nature had scattered
+with a lavish hand the most lovely of her gifts; and verdant trees
+cast their tall shadows on the water. Almost close to the place
+where we stood, was a circle of naked savage women, all black as a
+coal, who were performing the oddest antics imaginable; and still
+nearer stood a wild-looking group of their male companions, resting
+on their tall spears and participating in the frolic with all their
+hearts.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> A
+three-cornered rush or straw hat, having a high peak, but without a
+brim, was the only article of dress worn by these men. Altogether,
+as we have already said, the scene was such as to fill the mind
+with the highest gratification and delight. To us it was
+irresistibly charming, and we contemplated it a long time with
+emotions of the most pleasing description.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, August 5th.</em>—It rained incessantly till
+between eleven and twelve o’clock in the forenoon, when the sun
+made his appearance at intervals, and the weather became fine,
+which we promptly availed ourselves of, in pursuing our journey
+along the banks of the Niger to Boossà. The path was filled with
+water and broken up by the force of the rains. After an hour’s ride
+we drew near to the walls of the city, and soon arrived at the
+drummer’s house, which had been our former residence. Here we found
+the Midīki on her knees to receive and welcome us back again to
+Boossà in the name of the king. But we were not permitted to enter
+and take possession of our old apartments, for the queen conducted
+us to other huts, which form part of a cluster inhabited by
+Falátahs, and emigrants of both sexes from Yarriba and Nouffie, who
+are mostly slaves to the king. A quantity of milk and large
+calabashes of rice and fish, stewed in palm oil, were sent us a few
+minutes after our arrival; and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_101">[101]</span> in the evening we were visited by the
+monarch, who said he had been apprehensive that we required a
+little repose and quietness after our journey, and therefore he did
+not like to intrude on us before. He expressed the pleasure he felt
+on seeing us again, and welcomed us with the utmost cordiality. The
+Midīki, who had accompanied him to our house, paid us a similar
+compliment. It has been told us that the drummer’s wife had excited
+the envy of the queen by wearing round her neck a smart gilt button
+which we had given her; and that this is the only reason that we
+are not allowed to occupy our former lodgings in her house. Yet, to
+be even with her <em>fair</em> rival, the queen had extracted from
+her little sheepskin box, wherein they had been confined for a
+quarter of a century, a small number of round and flat golden
+ornaments, with which she has adorned her sable bosom, and thereby
+totally eclipsed the transitory splendour of the button belonging
+to the drummer’s wife.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Boossà the face and hands of both my brother
+and self were much swollen and highly inflamed by exposure to the
+sun, and this circumstance, simple as it was, excited the queen’s
+sympathy almost to tears.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, Aug. 6th.</em>—In a conversation with the king this
+morning, he intimated that it would be necessary for us to visit
+Wowow, previous to our going to Funda, because the prince
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> that state, he
+said, had already made war on Kiáma on our account, and captured a
+few of its people. The king had been induced, from the
+representations of the Midīki, who is sister to the chief of Wowow,
+to urge our taking this step; and as we dare not raise objections,
+we have promised to go thither in a day or two, although we are
+well aware that the little present we shall be necessitated to
+offer him will by no means answer his expectations. The king has
+himself repeated to us the promise which he made to our man, of
+furnishing us with a canoe sufficiently large to contain the whole
+of our people and ourselves, and whatever goods we may have left;
+and in order to bind him to his word, we have given him our tent
+and the horse which was lately his own; so that, deprived of these,
+we shall not have the means of travelling on land, and shall
+therefore of necessity be obliged to proceed by water. To the queen
+also, whose influence over the mind and actions of her husband is
+unbounded, we have made a present much greater than our means
+warranted, with which she is more than pleased. We have further
+endeavoured to win her favour by kindness, compliment, and
+flattery; and these means are the most powerful and effective in
+the world. The simple-hearted females of this country are quite
+unable to resist them. Thus far everything is favourable to our
+enterprise, yet doubts<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_103">[103]</span> sometimes arise in our minds; and should a
+canoe be denied us after all that the monarch of this place has
+said, we are determined, when the time draws near for our
+departure, to take a canoe of our own accord, and steal away from
+Boossà by night. ‘Falátahs,’ said the king to-day with much
+seriousness, ‘reside on each side of the river in considerable
+numbers, and I begin to fear that they will endanger your personal
+safety.’ ‘But,’ answers Paskoe, our interpreter, ‘Englishmen are
+gods of the waters, and no evil can befal them in boats, even
+though all Africa, or the whole world, should fight against them.’
+‘I will, however,’ said the king in reply, ‘go down and ask the
+<em>becken rouah</em> (dark or black water, which the Niger is
+everywhere emphatically styled) whether it will be prudent and safe
+for the white men to embark on it or not, and I will be sure to
+acquaint you and them of my success, be it good or bad.’ To-morrow
+morning, we understand, he intends making this singular experiment;
+and we have only to hope that the Niger may return him a favourable
+answer to his question.</p>
+
+<p>To-day when we ascertained that it was the actual intention of
+the king to supply us with a canoe, we thought proper to present
+him, in the name of our sovereign, with one of those beautiful
+silver medals which were cast during the American war, for the
+purpose of distributing amongst those<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_104">[104]</span> Indian chiefs who were favourable to the
+English interests. A large and valuable chain of the same metal was
+attached to it, and nothing which we had previously given the king
+seemed to have pleased him so much as this medal and chain; he
+regarded it indeed with childish admiration. We assured him that he
+might now consider himself as the king of England’s most particular
+friend, and that he could not offer a more grateful return, than by
+favouring and assisting us in our plan of journeying to the salt
+water, by way of the Niger.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, August 7th.</em>—Just after we had arisen this
+morning, the king came to us with joy beaming in his countenance,
+and quickly informed us that, according to his promise, he had been
+down to the Niger, with his mallam or priest, and that the result
+of his visit was highly favourable to our wishes as well as his
+own—‘the river having promised to conduct us in safety to its
+termination.’ One of our greatest apprehensions are by this means
+removed. He likewise observed that the canoes of the chief of Wowow
+were much superior to his own, and he should therefore request him
+to sell us a large and good one, made of a single trunk, instead of
+one joined in the middle, which he said would not be either so
+strong or so safe. We thanked him, and expressed a desire to
+purchase such a one as he had recommended<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_105">[105]</span> without delay, that we might have time to
+make whatever alterations we should deem necessary, and procure a
+mast, awning, sail, &amp;c., before our departure.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, August 9th.</em>—The king told Paskoe this morning,
+that neither himself nor the Midīki had tasted animal food for the
+last three weeks, and that if we would make him a present of a
+guinea-fowl he would be greatly pleased, as he had been living upon
+fish till he was tired of it. This was jocosely spoken, and not
+intended for our ears, as the king subsequently informed us; but
+when he knew, by our compliance with his expressed wish, that
+Paskoe had made us acquainted with it, his delicacy was so much
+hurt that he was ashamed to visit us for a whole day after.</p>
+
+<p>The king is one of the tallest and finest men in the country, as
+well as one of the most active and industrious. He is oftentimes
+unwell, owing, according to his own account, to having, many years
+ago, swallowed a quantity of poison which had been administered to
+him as an excellent medicine, by one who sought his destruction.
+Other chiefs ‘and great men,’ not only in Borgoo, but in every
+place that we have visited, either doze and sleep away the greatest
+part of their lifetime, or spend it in the most childish and
+frivolous pursuits; whereas his majesty of Boossà, when he is not
+engaged in public affairs, usefully employs<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_106">[106]</span> all his leisure hours in superintending
+the occupations of his household and making his own clothes. The
+Midīki and he have distinct establishments, divided fortunes, and
+separate interests; indeed, they appear to have nothing in common
+with each other, and yet we have never seen so friendly a couple
+since leaving our native country. The manners of the Africans, too,
+are hostile to the interest and advancement of woman, and she is
+very rarely indeed placed on an equality with her husband. Perhaps
+the prevalence of polygamy, which the religion of the people
+tolerates, whether Mahomedan or Pagan, is one of the chief causes
+of the disesteem in which females are generally held.</p>
+
+<p>The kings of Boossà, as we have before had occasion to observe,
+have the reputation of being the greatest monarchs, next to the
+sovereigns of Bornou, between that empire and the sea; and this
+enviable distinction is acknowledged by every rival chief. Yet it
+cannot be owing either to their power, their state, or their
+opulence, for of all the Borgoo rulers, they are perhaps the
+poorest and feeblest. The superior dignity of the kings of Boossà,
+and the honour and reverence which are universally paid them, have
+arisen, it is said, from the respectability of their origin, for
+they are believed to be descendants of the oldest family in Africa,
+which in ancient times, long before the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_107">[107]</span> introduction of the Mahomedan religion, was
+the great head of the fetísh: hence the profound respect which is
+yet shown them by the professors of the new faith, and those who
+still cling to the superstitions of the old, and the influence
+which they exercise as far as their name is known.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, August 10th.</em>—The Midīki sends us a bowl of
+bruised corn, boiled in water, which is called <em>tuah</em>, twice
+a-day for our people; and the king sends daily a little rice and
+dried fish, seasoned with pepper, salt, and palm-oil, for our own
+consumption. But we find this insufficient for our people, who are
+eight in number, and ourselves; their appetites are extremely keen.
+Guinea-fowl and partridges, which we used to shoot here in great
+quantities, and which formed the principal part of our food, are
+now procured with the greatest difficulty and fatigue, owing partly
+to the prevalence of heavy rains, which have rendered the ground
+soft and boggy, and partly to the surprising height and stiffness
+of the corn-stalks, between which these birds always shelter
+themselves. We are, therefore, often much perplexed about the means
+of procuring a meal. With buttons the market is already
+overstocked; they have lost all their powers to charm, because
+those we have heretofore sold were of inferior quality, and not
+new, so that they begin already to lose their polished lustre, and
+to look dull and black; needles are unsaleable; we have<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> disposed of all our bits of
+coloured cloth, and common red stuff, tea canisters, powder
+canisters, and almost everything indeed that <em>would</em> sell,
+reserving the very few articles of greater value which are left,
+for presents to the different chiefs along the banks of the Niger.
+Amongst other trifles disposed of were several tin-cases, which
+contained worthless and unpalatable portable soups, &amp;c. These
+were labelled with slips of tin, which though rather dull and
+dirty, nevertheless attracted the admiration of many; and we have
+been highly diverted to see one man in particular walking at large,
+and strutting about with ‘Concentrated Gravy,’ stuck on his head in
+no less than four places. He appeared quite proud and vain of these
+ornaments, and was simpering with pleasure wherever he went.</p>
+
+<p>Our men bear fatigue and hunger extremely well, yet when they
+have food in abundance, they eat, or rather devour it voraciously.
+One of them who has the appetite of a horse, but who is himself
+unconscious of it, understanding that anything bitter would sharpen
+this propensity, and enable him to consume a greater quantity of
+provisions, has been in the constant habit of swallowing the
+contents of every bullock’s gall-bladder he could meet with! Six
+such stomachs as his we have daily to satisfy, if we can; and
+having also two women (Paskoe’s wives) in our<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_109">[109]</span> train, we think it will be no easy
+matter, at a future period, to supply them even with the bare
+necessaries of life, more especially after our embarkation in the
+canoe.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, August 11th.</em>—By a previous intimation, we
+prepared ourselves early this morning to depart for Wowow; but
+because the road to that city was supposed to be bad, we were
+obliged to wait on horseback by the king’s house for a considerable
+time, in order that a person might be found to show us the most
+proper path. However, wearied with waiting, we left the city
+without him, and he overtook us about three or four hours after we
+had been on our journey. The account of the badness of the path we
+soon saw had not been exaggerated; it was filled with holes and
+pits, and overgrown with grass, so tall, that it reached far above
+our heads, and sprinkled a shower of water on our persons. Thorny
+shrubs tore our clothes and lacerated our flesh, and the branches
+of decayed trees, which had fallen across the pathway, made it
+everything but impassable; while small rivers, rushing along with
+the impetuosity of a torrent, and their rugged and almost
+perpendicular sides, conduced to render travelling dangerous and
+even dreadful. In crossing a large and not very rapid stream, my
+horse fell with me, but my brother’s refused to carry him over, and
+he was obliged to wade through the water, which<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> reached above his arm-pits.
+The bed of the stream was filled with rocks, against which he
+struck himself several times, and was thrown down more than once,
+but without doing him any injury.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles from Boossà we crossed in a canoe a branch of the
+Niger forming a pretty little river, and running nearly west, and
+which is said to encompass the whole of Wowow, and to fall into the
+parent stream below that state. This is the river which Captain
+Clapperton was informed encircled the city and part of the kingdom
+of Boossà, whereas it takes quite an opposite direction; and where
+that officer supposed it returned to the Niger, it actually takes
+its rise. It was likewise told us, that this same river joins the
+<em>Oly</em>; and if this be the case, the principalities of Kiàma
+and Wowow must form an island of themselves. Between one and two
+o’clock in the afternoon, when the most difficult part of the
+journey had been accomplished, we halted at a farm belonging to the
+king of Boossà, for we were all excessively fatigued. Here we were
+regaled with parched corn and water, and refreshed ourselves
+further with an hour’s rest; and we again set forward with renewed
+spirits and additional cheerfulness, and about sunset entered a
+pleasant little village, encompassed with flourishing plantations
+of corn and yams, which was situated near<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_111">[111]</span> Mount George the Fourth. We slept here, and
+before we retired to rest we made an unsuccessful attempt to
+procure provisions for our famishing attendants, yet they had
+wisdom enough not to forget themselves, for they had recourse to
+their old expedient of pilfering Indian corn in the night time; and
+though a watch was kept by the inhabitants, who suspected their
+intentions, yet they escaped detection. Fires were made in our hut,
+which was very large, with branches of trees and a large trunk, and
+around these sat our men dressing and eating their ill-gotten food
+till morning. In the course of the day’s journey we observed traces
+of lions and elephants. The latter animals infest the woods between
+Boossà and Wowow in incredible numbers, and by the impressions of
+their feet on the pathway, their size must be prodigious.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, August 12th.</em>—As soon as it was day, we were
+again on horseback, and after a very pleasant ride over an
+excellent footway of somewhat less than twelve miles, we entered
+the city of Wowow through the western entrance. Here we found
+ourselves on the race-course, and by desire we galloped swiftly
+towards the king’s residence, and fired off a couple of pistols as
+a signal of our arrival. He presently came out to see us; but as
+the messenger from Boossà was not at hand, and as it is the custom
+never to enter into any kind of conversation without him, the old
+chief awaited his coming with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_112">[112]</span> much patience for more than half an hour,
+nor could we approach him during that time. Indeed no foreigner is
+permitted to do so, whatever may be his rank, unless in presence of
+the representative of the chief from whom he last came. A number of
+well-dressed mallams walked before the king on his coming out, and
+a man bearing on his shoulder a heavy sword came after them; and
+last of all followed a long train of his wives and children, who
+squatted themselves on the ground and filled up the door-way. In
+the wall on each side of the entrance of the town is a large niche,
+in one of which the king stood fixed and motionless, with his hands
+clasped under his tobe, and supported on his bosom; and round a
+pole which had been placed erect in the other niche, a naked youth
+had entwined his legs, remaining in breathless anxiety to be a
+spectator of the approaching interview. No two human beings ever
+bore a more striking resemblance to statues than these; the
+deception was indeed complete. For ourselves, we had sent our
+horses to graze, and sat about a dozen paces from the door-way
+under a large tree; the mallams were sprawling on the earth between
+the king and us; and at a respectful distance on each side, groups
+of the inhabitants had assembled to gratify their curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>While the king remained in the above position without moving a
+single muscle, and which lasted till our messenger had made his
+appearance, a singing-woman<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_113">[113]</span> drew near the person of her sovereign, and
+began to exercise her vocation in a tone of voice that displayed
+anything but sweetness or melody, and so loud and shrill as to
+frighten away the birds from the trees near the spot. After this
+salutation she fell on her knees, and repeatedly threw handfuls of
+earth over her left shoulder down her back, &amp;c. The Boossà
+messenger who had been so anxiously expected, at length arrived,
+and the spell which had bound every one to the spot was dissolved
+in a moment. We were then conducted to the king, and formally
+introduced to him; but the grave, eccentric old man shook hands
+with us without taking them from the tobe in which they had been
+enveloped, or even condescending to look in our faces, for he never
+makes it a practice to raise his head above a certain height;
+fearing he should discover the person to whom he may be conversing
+gazing full in his countenance, to which he has a very strange but
+unconquerable antipathy. The interview lasted but a moment, and we
+were hastily conducted to the house which was occupied by the late
+Captain Clapperton; and here we were soon visited by a number of
+the principal people of the city. In the course of the morning we
+received a quantity of eggs, milk, yams, and a fat sheep, as a
+present from the king.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span><a id=
+"c11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">Horse-racing at Wowow on the Mahometan Sabbath —
+Indignation of the King of Wowow against the King of Kiáma —
+Religious Procession of Females — Policy of the King of Wowow —
+Richard Lander taken ill — leaves his brother at Wowow, and returns
+to Boossà — Narrative of John Lander — The Blessing of the
+Priestess — Religious Sects — Their Creeds and Ideas of a Future
+State — Funeral and Marriage Ceremonies — Park’s Books — the States
+of Borgoo — The last of Park’s effects — Farewell to the King of
+Wowow — Departure — Village — Apprehensions of the Natives — the
+Travellers meet at Boossà.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, August 13th.</em>—To-day is the Mahomedan Sabbath,
+which is constantly kept as a holiday by the inhabitants for public
+recreations and festivities. The king’s musicians were engaged in
+playing a very few simple airs during the whole of the morning. For
+native music it was certainly excellent; elsewhere we have heard
+nothing equal to it, not even at Katunga, Kiàma, or Yàoorie. Boossà
+seems to have little music, and few amusements of any kind—no city
+is so dull and lifeless as that. In the evening, the weekly
+horse-racing commenced by a run of eight or ten ponies, as handsome
+as they were swift, and the competition between them
+was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> most spirited.
+It was not till after this contest had been concluded, that the
+king made his appearance at the lower end of the race-course; and
+from thence he rode slowly towards the starting-place, preceded by
+singing and dancing women, who bawled and capered before him. When
+he came up to it he was saluted with a report from a few guns and
+pistols. The king was more appropriately attired, or rather his
+clothes seemed to sit more easily and gracefully on his person,
+than those of any other prince we have seen. His horse was gaily,
+if not richly caparisoned; it was a noble beast, and both horse and
+rider looked extremely well. As he passed us he neither turned his
+head aside nor even honoured us with a single glance, from a desire
+to make an impression on our minds by pomp and show, perhaps he
+thought it would have been degrading to have given us a familiar
+look.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was not so favourable as could have been wished; and
+to this circumstance was owing the few horses, comparatively
+speaking, which had been brought to the sport. The horses were rode
+chiefly by little boys, one of whom was the king’s son: when they
+galloped past their sovereign, they invariably doffed their caps as
+a mark of respect. This race was by no means so well contested as
+the former, and indeed was unworthy of the name; and as
+soon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> as it was
+over, the king returned to his residence, and his example was
+presently followed by the prince and the other part of his
+household. But all these were obliged to return by a different
+path, because it is against the rules of etiquette for any one of
+the natives to attend the footsteps of his sovereign on the
+celebration of any public amusement. After their departure the
+music ceased, and terminated the entertainments of the day.</p>
+
+<p>The king’s head drummer, a little Nouffie man, came to see us
+this afternoon; he informed us that he was one of the followers of
+prince Ederesa, and had fled hither, with a host of
+fellow-fugitives, from the resentment of the successful Magīa and
+his allies, the Falàtahs. The other day, his emigrant companions
+divided themselves into two unequal parties: the weaker left Wowow
+to join the standard of the Magīa, and the stronger that of his
+brother Ederesa; the drummer however had preferred to remain behind
+and serve the king in his present capacity. He stated, in answer to
+our inquiries, that the <em>Tshadda</em> (Shary) flows into the
+Niger at Funda, and a regular intercourse is kept up with the
+natives on its banks, for the purposes of trade, by means of very
+large canoes. The sheikh, he said, resided very near the
+<em>Tshadda</em>, which, in Bornou, spreads into a large body of
+water. He further informed us, that canoes, capable of
+containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> five
+hundred men in each, and having ‘thatched houses’ in them, are
+taken to <em>Binnie</em> (Benin), with great quantities of cotton
+cloths, &amp;c., by his countrymen, who sell them to the natives;
+and that Funda is very near the salt water; yet the drummer appears
+to know nothing of <em>any</em> river which runs to Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>This morning, I carried the few things, which we had brought
+from Boossà for that purpose, to the king. The monarch appeared
+well pleased and cheerful, and expressed himself perfectly
+satisfied with the present, though in a few minutes afterwards he
+despatched a messenger to inquire if we had not brought any coral
+beads with us from England. The articles forming the present
+consisted of two pair of silver bracelets, a piece of coarse
+muslin, sufficient for a couple of turbans, a tobacco-pipe, two
+razors, a new gilt button, two small and inferior looking-glasses,
+a clasp knife, a pair of scissors, and two combs. In compliance
+with my request, the king informed me, that he would sell us a
+canoe with the greatest pleasure. He was convinced, he said, that
+we should return in safety to our country by way of the Niger,
+which did not contain a single rock from <em>Inguâzhilligee</em> to
+Funda. He had heard of the refusal of the prince of Kiàma to send
+us by the road of Wowow to his friend the king of Boossà, and his
+recommending us a path<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_118">[118]</span> through a dreary wilderness, which had
+caused the destruction of all our horses, and in which we ourselves
+had narrowly escaped with life. He had felt for us in that
+situation, and his heart had been touched with grief at the recital
+of our misfortunes. After the rains should be over, he was
+determined to resent the affront which had been thus offered him by
+the ruler of Kiàma, and make him repent his cruelty. It had been
+his intention, he continued, to despatch a body of soldiers for the
+purpose of escorting us to his city in a handsome and becoming
+manner, but he had been deterred from his purpose by the
+information which he had received of our having plenty of guns and
+ammunition with us, which he feared we might have employed against
+the escort, under the mistaken opinion of its being a band of
+robbers. He rejoiced, however, to see us, because it would convince
+his neighbours that the white men neither disliked nor despised
+him. ‘I am now infinitely happy,’ he concluded, ‘for surely I could
+not have left the world in peace if you had departed from the
+country without having visited the old king of Wowow.’ When this
+long explanation was concluded, I was permitted to take my leave.
+Guns were subsequently fired off in compliment of our arrival; and
+the king and his wives, elated with joy, passed the day in dancing,
+laughing, and singing.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>In the evening,
+several of their daughters favoured us with a visit; and after
+their departure the monarch’s brother and his friend came to pay us
+the compliments of the day, and salute us in the country fashion.
+The <em>avoikin sullikee</em> (king’s friend) is a very important
+and influential personage in Borgoo and other countries, and in
+point of rank is considered the second man in the empire. He
+transacts all the public business for the king when the latter is
+incapable of attending to it, from indisposition or any other
+accidental cause.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, August 14th.</em>—Yesterday morning a messenger
+was despatched in haste to Inguâzhilligee, which is a town and
+ferry on the banks of the Niger, where the king’s boats are kept,
+to ascertain if a large canoe can be appropriated to our use,
+without interfering with or interrupting the business of the ferry.
+He returned at a late hour last night, so that we had no
+opportunity of speaking to him; but this morning he informed us,
+that we shall be able to have the best and most commodious canoe in
+the place, because a new canoe had very recently been made for the
+ferry, on account of the old one, which has since been recovered,
+having drifted down the river. Another individual was sent by the
+king this morning to settle the business about the purchase-money,
+but he is not expected to return from Inguâzhilligee till
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>This day a long
+and gay procession, formed by the female followers of the ancient
+religion of the country, passed through the town, walking and
+dancing alternately, with large spreading branches of trees in
+their hands. The priestess, at the time we saw her, had just
+swallowed fetīsh-water, and was carried on the shoulders of one of
+the devotees, who was assisted by two female companions, supporting
+the trembling hands and arms of their mistress. Her body was
+convulsed all over, and her features shockingly distorted, whilst
+she stared wildly and vacantly on the troop of enthusiasts and
+other objects which surrounded her. The priestess was then believed
+to be possessed with a demon; indeed, to us they all appeared to be
+so, for not one of them seemed in their sober senses, so
+indescribably fantastic were their actions, and so unseemly did
+they deport themselves. A younger woman was likewise borne on the
+shoulders of a friend, and carried along in the same manner as her
+mistress but she was by no means so uncouth a figure, nor was her
+agitation so great as that of the priestess, by whom she was
+preceded. The whole of the women forming this strange procession
+might amount to between ninety and a hundred; they were clad in
+their ‘holiday best:’ their motions were regulated at times by the
+sound of drums and fifes, and to this music they joined their wild
+shrill<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> voices. They
+were arranged in couples, and with the branches of trees shaking in
+the air, presented one of the most extraordinary and grotesque
+spectacles that the human mind can conceive.</p>
+
+<p>The king of Wowow is making new roads and repairing and widening
+the old ones leading to and from the city. This is the only
+instance we have yet seen wherein even the slightest attention has
+been paid by a chief to the state of the public pathway, during the
+whole of the journey from Badàgry to Yàoorie; and the reason urged
+by the ruler of this place for undertaking the business is somewhat
+singular, though shrewd and just. ‘If,’ says he, ‘an enemy were to
+come towards my gates with a hostile intention, and find the roads
+broken up or overgrown with weeds, would they not say among
+themselves, “Oh, this king of Wowow is a careless, slothful,
+cowardly governor; his town contains but few inhabitants, for see,
+the path is green and untrodden by human feet; let us go and attack
+it, for it will easily fall into our hands?” But,’ he continued,
+‘should they find it of convenient width, smooth, and free from
+grass, they would immediately say,—“This road is trodden by the
+feet of many people; the town must be populous, strong, and
+flourishing, and its monarch watchful and brave; if we venture to
+make an assault, we foresee that we shall<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_122">[122]</span> be overpowered and slain; it is better for
+us all to turn back while we are yet undiscovered and unharmed,
+lest some evil fall upon us when it is too late to retreat.”’</p>
+
+<p>Thus the talkative old king argues with his people, that they
+may throw off that laziness which is natural to them, and be
+animated to industry and labour in the common cause.</p>
+
+<p>A greater quantity of yams is cultivated in the vicinity of
+Wowow than is grown in all the other principalities of Borgoo put
+together. It is a common question on the path when the natives meet
+a stranger, ‘What! are you going to Wowow to eat yams?’ And the
+King of Boossà jocosely observed to us in parting, ‘That after we
+had tasted of the yams of his relative, he was apprehensive we
+should be inclined to remain a longer period in Wowow than he had
+proposed, for that they were a powerful inducement.’</p>
+
+<p>Rice and corn are also cultivated to an unlimited extent here,
+and two species of beans, so that the necessaries of life are very
+plentiful and cheap. Reaping has commenced, and the wet season, it
+is said, is nearly over. As in most other places, indigo and cotton
+are yearly produced at Wowow in abundance.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, August 15th.</em>—Yesterday, and this morning, I was
+seized with giddiness of the head and other symptoms, which are the
+usual precursors<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span> of
+fever in this country. We had left our medicine-chest behind at
+Boossà, and as I was apprehensive that I should be laid up in this
+city, if I remained in it longer, my brother agreed with me in
+opinion that it would be advisable for me to return without delay
+to Boossà, and leave him here to settle the business respecting the
+canoe, &amp;c. I therefore got on horseback as soon as the vertigo
+had passed away, and without stopping to bid adieu to the king,
+immediately departed on my journey with two attendants. My brother
+furnished me afterwards with the following account of the events
+which fell under his own observation, during the time we were
+absent from each other.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">‘A very few minutes after my brother had
+departed from Wowow, the prince sent me a young bullock and a
+number of yams; and his brother likewise presented me with a
+quantity of milk, rice, and a fatted goat.</p>
+
+<p>‘About mid-day the female worshippers of the ancient gods, who
+have already been alluded to, performed a second mystical ceremony,
+which is enjoined by their religion, and afterwards paraded the
+streets in the same order as on the former occasion. When it was
+over and the procession had dispersed, without intimating their
+intention, several of them paid me a visit, attended by musicians
+with drums, flutes, and guitars, and a great number<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> of little boys and girls. I
+was sitting in a shed outside our hut at the time, with a sheet
+spread before me to keep off the eyes of the curious; and when it
+was pulled up by the priestess herself, who was fantastically
+dressed in man’s apparel, and when, with her large rolling eyes,
+and phrenzied countenance and manner, she performed her antics
+before me, uttering at the same time a piercing yell, more dismal
+than a dog’s at midnight, I started and shuddered a moment, for I
+was quite unprepared to witness such an object. But the poor
+enthusiast had no evil intention, for she fell down on her knees,
+gazed at me with tears in her eyes, and with a look of tenderness,
+held out her hand as a token of friendship, blessed me, and then
+arose and went out to make room for her principal attendants, who
+shrieked like her, and offered their hand in the same manner. Our
+Boossà messenger, and other individuals, who had come in before
+this most singular method of salutation was ended, subsequently
+received the benediction of the devotees, which was bestowed on
+them by the elder of the females. The method of doing it was novel
+and peculiar: in the first place the man was placed in a stooping
+position, the female then twisted his left arm, and pulled it over
+the back with all her might; it was then let go, to the great
+relief of the man; and she placed both her hands on his shoulders,
+which she pressed down with<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_125">[125]</span> great energy, muttering between her teeth
+during the time the blessing which he had sought; but this was so
+inaudible that it could not be understood. It was not the woman,
+said the bystanders, but a spirit within her that spoke, and that
+influenced her and her companions in all their actions. So the
+people went away confirmed in this belief, and quite happy.</p>
+
+<p>‘The religion which these enthusiasts profess, and which was not
+long since the prevailing religion of the country, is still held in
+great reverence here; so much so indeed, that the king’s daughters
+were early initiated into its mysteries, and invariably attend the
+celebration of all its superstitious rites and ordinances; in fact
+the priestess herself is one of them. Their parent also is still
+favourable towards the religion of his fathers, which is blended
+with Arab fables and traditions (for the Mahomedan creed in its
+purity is unknown here), and these form the foundation and
+superstructure of his faith.</p>
+
+<p>‘The priestess and her followers believe in the existence of a
+God, and a heaven wherein he resides; that this glorious and
+almighty Being superintends the destinies of man in this life, and
+in a future one rewards or punishes him according to his deserts.
+Yet of a hell or a place of eternal torment they have no idea
+whatever. The souls of good men, say they, are translated into a
+tranquil, happy, and beautiful region, wherein but one<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> monkey is permitted to reside,
+and where they remain for ever; whereas the wicked, before they can
+be allowed to participate in so much felicity and enjoyment, are
+forced to endure sorrow, pain, and punishment:—a variety of
+tortures is in store for them, such as scourging and beating, till
+it is considered sufficient punishment has been inflicted for their
+misdeeds, when they are exalted to a happier state of being.</p>
+
+<p>‘Others, who waver between the Mahomedan religion and the
+ancient faith, believe that at the end of the world a voice will
+sound from heaven to invite all black men to the world of bliss,
+but that these will be too much unconcerned and too lazy to embrace
+the offer—a second voice will then proclaim the same invitation to
+white men, who will spring up with alacrity and transport, and
+enter the celestial regions before them with books in their hands.
+They profess to believe also that two men were originally created,
+one black and the other white, from whom the whole world is
+descended.</p>
+
+<p>‘The professors of the ancient superstition sacrifice a bullock,
+a sheep, or a black goat to their divinities, but they shudder at
+the very idea of a human offering. Instead of agreeing with us that
+the world will be destroyed by fire, they suppose that its Divine
+Maker will roll it up like a parchment scroll, and put it aside for
+a future occasion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>‘It is somewhat
+remarkable that in Hàussa the people have a tradition that the name
+of our great forefather was <em>Adam</em> (pronounced exactly in
+the same manner as we pronounce the word). <em>Da Adam</em>, in the
+same language, signifies an object when observed indistinctly at a
+distance, bearing the least resemblance to a man. The mother of the
+human race is called <em>Ameenatoo</em>, in Hàussa.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Monday, August 16th.</em>—The more respectable classes of
+society in Wowow and Boossà, after their decease, are buried in the
+yard of the house in which they resided when alive; whilst the
+people in the common walks of life are interred in a spot of ground
+selected for the purpose in a thick wood, which is at some distance
+from the city, and answering to our own places of burial. The
+friends of the former, as soon as they are made acquainted with his
+dissolution, resort to his house, and make lamentation for him for
+the space of seven days, wearing during that period their very
+worst apparel. But the relatives of a poor man attend his remains
+to the burying ground, and abide in the wood till their grief is
+assuaged and the time of mourning expired.</p>
+
+<p>‘Marriage among free people is exceedingly simple, and is
+attended with little mirth or festive recreation of any kind. The
+intended husband is allowed to have nothing to do in the affair,
+though it concerns him so nearly, and the parents of
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> girl are
+equally out of the question. When the parties become attached to
+each other, the female goes immediately to acquaint her
+<em>grandmother</em> of the circumstance, and coaxes the old woman
+to give her consent for her to live henceforward with her suitor,
+for she alone has the power of giving the maiden away. If it
+happens, however, that she has no grandmother, the girl is at
+liberty to act as she pleases. Several days are always allowed for
+the old woman to reflect and ponder over the whole matter in her
+mind; and this interval is generally embraced by the man in making
+her trifling presents, and doing her other little acts of kindness,
+in the hope of gaining her over to his interests. When a free man
+forms an affection for a female who is a slave, and he has money
+sufficient for the purpose, he goes to her master, whoever he may
+be, unbosoms his mind to him, and informs him of his intention of
+taking the woman to wife, if he will give him permission. Should
+the owner of the girl approve of the connexion, the suitor pays him
+twenty thousand cowries for his consent to the match, though a
+smaller sum is oftentimes offered and accepted; and the object of
+his affections from that time becomes his spouse. Yet the children
+which she may bear him cannot be retained by the father, but are
+considered the exclusive property of the wife’s master, who lays
+claim to them and takes<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_129">[129]</span> them away as soon as they are able to run
+about. Nor does the marriage ceremony break the bonds of the
+woman’s slavery, for she is liable to be called upon whenever the
+master thinks proper, when she is obliged to serve him in the same
+manner as if she had remained in a single state. The union of
+slaves amongst each other depends entirely upon the will and
+pleasure of their owners.</p>
+
+<p>‘A man is at liberty to return his wife to her parents at any
+time, and without adducing any reason for his dislike and
+dissatisfaction. When this is his intention, he treats his spouse
+with disrespect and unkindness, which she soon understands the
+meaning of, and of her own accord she goes back to her friends, and
+tells them of what has occurred. These subsequently repair in a
+body to the husband’s house, and question him in a formal manner
+whether it is his desire that his wife should continue to abide
+with them. If so, the connexion is forthwith dissolved, and she is
+again considered in the light of an unmarried woman. The children
+(if any) the mother is by no means permitted to take along with
+her, but they are left behind with their father, who delivers them
+over to the care of his other women.</p>
+
+<p>‘The king of Wowow daily inquires after my health, and sends me
+a quantity of yams, milk, and eggs, every morning. Although this
+old chief has received a present infinitely smaller than
+we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> have given any
+other ruler, yet his treatment of us has been more generous than
+that of all of them together. His brother, also, and one or two
+other respectable individuals, have been equally kind, and have
+endeavoured all in their power to render our stay among them
+perfectly agreeable. They expect nothing in return for their
+hospitality, for we have nothing but a few needles to offer them,
+and we have told them so again and again—nevertheless their
+attention and kindness do not diminish.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Tuesday, August 17th.</em>—I was taken extremely unwell
+this morning with an indescribable and very unpleasant sensation in
+the head, which made me so lifeless and stupid that I could
+scarcely keep my eyes open for the remainder of the day, and
+obliged me to lie on my mat till evening, where I dozed away the
+hours more uncomfortably than I can describe. It is very remarkable
+that hitherto in the evening preceding the day on which we have
+been taken ill we have ever been surprisingly brisk and lively,
+with an unnatural flow of spirits; and we are so well aware of this
+that we always anticipate what is sure to follow, when we find
+ourselves in this merry mood, namely, an attack of illness on the
+ensuing morning.</p>
+
+<p>‘The messenger sent by the king to procure us a canoe is not yet
+returned from Inguâzhilligee; another was despatched after him
+yesterday, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> this
+morning a third, it is said, has left the town on the same errand;
+so at least people have informed us. The object of the first of
+these men is not confined to his visiting the ferry; but if he
+could not meet with a canoe to his satisfaction there, he has been
+desired to proceed further down the Quorra until he should see one
+that would answer our purpose. He is also to examine and report the
+appearance of a <em>reef of rocks like that at Boossà, which runs
+across the river below Inguâzhilligee</em><a id=
+"FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>,
+and collect monies and duties owing to his master. It is therefore
+not much to be wondered at that he is not yet returned to Wowow. In
+the evening one of our men arrived from my brother at Boossà; he
+informed me by letter of his convalescence, and of his intention of
+returning to this city yesterday, which however had been frustrated
+by desire of the king. The letter stated further that the Midīki
+would settle with her brother, the prince of Wowow, for the canoe
+which he has promised to sell us; and therefore that I was at
+liberty to take my leave of him whenever I might think proper. Also
+in the evening I received an intimation from the king to remain in
+the city till his messenger, who is hourly expected, shall have
+returned from the banks of the Niger. Indeed it is more than
+unlikely, if my present indisposition continue, that<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> I shall be able to undergo the
+fatigues of a journey to Boossà, for a day or two at least; so that
+this restraint of the King I shall scarcely feel.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Wednesday, August 18th.</em>—My curiosity has again been
+highly and perhaps painfully excited by hearing to-day that a
+certain man in the town was known to have had in his possession
+several books which he had picked up from the Niger at the period
+of Mr. Park’s dissolution. As soon as I had learnt this I instantly
+sent to the man’s house to ascertain the truth or falsehood of the
+rumour, but he happened to be from home, and it was not till night,
+after his return from the bush, that I heard with disappointment
+and sorrow that the report was indeed well founded, but that the
+books had all been recently destroyed. The man said he had shown
+them to the Arabs who were in the habit of visiting the town, but
+they could not understand the language in which they were written,
+and merely conjectured that their contents related to money
+matters, and were therefore of no kind of use whatever to any one.
+Yet notwithstanding their uselessness the man is reported to have
+kept the books carefully concealed in his house till the arrival of
+Captain Clapperton at Wowow, but when he found that this officer
+made no inquiries for such books, he neglected to pay any further
+attention to them, and they were destroyed shortly after; or, to
+use his own words,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>
+they “dropped or fell to pieces.” By the description which has been
+given of one of the books alluded to, I am inclined to believe that
+it must have been either Mr. Park’s journal, or a book of
+manuscripts of some sort. Thus have all our inquiries for the
+recovery of the lost papers of this traveller ended in
+disappointment: even when we had made almost sure of them, and our
+feelings excited to their highest pitch on more than one occasion,
+we have felt all the bitterness of hope suddenly extinguished.</p>
+
+<p>‘A number of visiters has called to see me to-day; but owing to
+my indisposition I have been unable to remain in a sitting posture
+longer than a very few minutes at a time, and therefore these
+visits have been agreeably short.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Thursday, August 19th.</em>—I have learned with some
+surprise to-day, that Boossà and Wowow are not considered as being
+in the empire of Borgoo, but that they actually form a separate and
+distinct country, where a different language is spoken, and
+different manners prevail. The principality of Kiàma, however, is
+included by the natives in the former country, but owing to the
+long-continued and unceasing intercourse which has been maintained
+between it and Boossà, &amp;c., the original Borgoo language has
+given place to the Boossà and Wowow tongue; and the customs and
+amusements of the people likewise bear at this time so<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> great a similarity to those of
+their neighbours, as not to be distinguished from them. Yet a
+stranger can scarcely fail to remark a surprising difference
+between the demeanour of the more respectable inhabitants of Kiàma,
+and the behaviour of the same class of people at Boossà and Wowow.
+The former are bold, haughty, fierce, and rapacious, the latter are
+mild, humble, and sedate;—the former are held in no better light by
+merchants and traders, than a band of robbers,—whereas the latter
+are respected everywhere, and held in high reputation for honesty,
+integrity, and honour. Kiàma, it is said, formerly paid a tax to
+the king of Niki, but now it has sworn allegiance to the
+Falátahs.</p>
+
+<p>‘The following is a statement of the names of the different
+states, which form the extensive country called Borgoo. The monarch
+of Niki, as a title of distinction and eminence, is styled “King or
+Sultan of Borgoo,” viz.:—</p>
+
+<ul class="simple1">
+<li>1. Niki</li>
+
+<li>2. Buoy</li>
+
+<li>3. Kiáma</li>
+
+<li>4. Sandero</li>
+
+<li>5. Kingka</li>
+
+<li>6. Korokoo</li>
+
+<li>7. Loogoo</li>
+
+<li>8. Pundi</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>‘These follow in the order of the importance in which they are
+held by the people. Niki pays a small tribute to the king of Boossà
+as an acknowledgment of his superiority; Wowow does the same,
+“because,” said an intelligent man of that city, “in the beginning
+of the world the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>
+Almighty appointed his ancestor monarch of the whole of western
+Africa.” The present king of Boossà is, notwithstanding, too feeble
+to enforce payment of this tribute: it was originally offered
+voluntarily, and it has been continued by courtesy to the present
+time, though Niki and Wowow begin to be indifferent about the
+matter.</p>
+
+<p>‘The relative position of the five first states of Borgoo with
+respect to each other, may be thus expressed: the letters N, W, S,
+E, indicating the positions of the four cardinal points of the
+compass.</p>
+
+<table id="t135">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">Buoy.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">N.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">Kingka W.—Niki—E. Kiama.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">S.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">Sandero.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>‘<em>Niki</em> is seven days’ journey nearly west of Wowow, and
+the four states surrounding it as above, are each three days’
+journey from it in the direction in which they are placed.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Korokoo</em> is sixteen days’ journey west of Wowow.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Loogoo</em> twenty days’ journey south-west of Wowow.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Pundi</em> twenty days’ west of Wowow.</p>
+
+<p>‘It is, however, hardly possible for a native of Wowow to give
+the exact situation of a country remote from his own, when it is
+considered that he has neither a compass, nor indeed any
+instrument<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> whatever
+to assist him in his observations, the sun alone being his guide in
+such cases. It is therefore likely enough that the individuals who
+furnished me with the preceding information might have erred,
+perhaps, as much as two or three points of the compass; and
+consequently, it would be better, instead of east, west, north,
+&amp;c., to read <em>easterly, westerly, northerly</em>,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>‘Niki is the largest and most powerful of the Borgoo states. Its
+capital, which is extremely populous, is of the same name, and
+though unwalled, it is of immense extent, and said to be of equal
+size to the city of Yàoorie. Its monarch has a thousand horses,
+which are all his private property, and he is, in other respects,
+wealthy and affluent. His soldiers, who form a good part of the
+population of the capital, are reputed to be brave, bold, and
+enterprising men; those on foot have one side of the head shaved to
+distinguish them from their fellow-subjects. These are like the
+“half-heads” of the king of Dahomey. Niki is almost the only
+country in the west, against which the Falátahs have not yet dared
+“to lift the spear.”</p>
+
+<p>‘There is reported to be not less than <em>seventy</em>
+considerable and important towns dependent on the state of Niki,
+all of which have several smaller towns and villages under their
+control and management. The chiefs of each of these<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> large towns present to their
+sovereign, once in their lifetime, a young and pretty woman to be
+his wife, by which means his seraglio is always kept full. Yet, if
+the girl fail to win the affections of the king, and she be not
+liked, or if, after she becomes his mistress, any fault is found
+with her, or any personal blemish or defect, she is instantly
+dismissed, and the chief of the town from whom she had been
+received, is obliged to supply her place by sending another girl.
+This is an odd and singular kind of tribute, but it is slight, and
+the inhabitants of the “seventy” pay no other. The next state in
+rank, extent, and importance to Niki, and the great rival to that
+country, is <em>Buoy</em>, which, like the former, has seventy
+towns of much consequence, that acknowledge its supremacy, and pay
+a tax of ladies to the monarch in something the same manner as
+their neighbours of Niki. There is great plenty of horses in the
+state of <em>Buoy</em>, and in <em>Sandero</em>; but the states of
+<em>Kingha</em>, <em>Loogoo</em>, and <em>Korokoo</em>, are
+destitute of a single animal of this description. With the
+exception of Loogoo, these latter states are said to be excessively
+poor, and their inhabitants to live in a pitiable state of penury
+and wretchedness; but the people of Loogoo have the necessaries of
+life in greater abundance, and they are enriched by the thousands
+of merchants who trade to Gonja for the goora nut, &amp;c., and who
+pass annually through their country. Their chief, or king, is
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span> most opulent
+ruler in the whole of Borgoo, having obtained by this means more
+money than the monarch of Niki or Buoy ever had in his possession.
+<em>Pundi</em> was at one time a dependency of Niki, but the
+natives have recently thrown off the yoke, and formed themselves
+into an independent power; but with the acquisition of their
+liberty they soon lost the little sense of right and wrong which
+they once had, and having no leader for whom they cared, and no law
+which they obeyed, they threw off all manner of restraint, and from
+robbing each other, they turned to plundering the property of their
+neighbours, and waylaying every unprotected stranger or traveller
+that had occasion to pass through their country. The same unruly,
+outrageous, and turbulent spirit, and desperate conduct prevail
+among the natives of Pundi to the present time; and similar acts of
+rapacity and violence are consummated by them every day, so that
+their country is dreaded and shunned by every one acquainted with
+their character and habits. Even among their bad neighbours, these
+people are regarded as the worst in the world; but perhaps the
+fears of strangers and enemies cause them to misrepresent and
+exaggerate the depraved manners of the people of Pundi.</p>
+
+<p>‘This evening, the king’s <em>first</em> messenger returned from
+Inguâzhilligee, and has succeeded in obtaining a large new canoe
+for our use, which it is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_139">[139]</span> understood will be sent up the river to
+Boossà as soon as the queen shall have paid the purchase-money to
+her brother, the chief of Wowow. We had much rather bargain for it
+ourselves, but the desires of the meddling Midīki are imperious,
+and it would not be prudent on our part to balk her wishes.—Very
+unwell all day.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Friday, August 20th.</em>—The widow Zuma has left a son at
+Wowow, who is about thirty years of age, and is suffered to reside
+here only because he is at variance with his captious mother, and
+disapproves and condemns all her measures. This young man has been
+a constant daily visiter to me, and brings me occasionally a dish
+of pounded yam and palm-oil, a few goora nuts, or some such trifle.
+At our request he has busied himself surprisingly in endeavouring
+to procure information respecting the papers of Mr. Park. Though
+nearly blind, <em>Abba</em> (for that is his name) is a handsome
+and intelligent young man, of an equable temper, and of a mild,
+modest, and amiable disposition, which has rendered him a great
+favourite with us. From the information with which he has supplied
+us, we learn that the late King of Wowow, who was father to the
+present ruler, became possessed of much of Mr. Park’s property,
+amongst which was a great quantity of guns and ammunition,
+particularly musket balls, which we have seen. Before this
+monarch’s dissolution, he left them to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_140">[140]</span> be divided amongst his sons. Abba
+ascertained yesterday that a large fat woman, belonging to the
+king, had a great pillow which her deceased husband had snatched,
+amongst other things, from the Niger, near Boossà, and with which
+he had fled to Wowow, where he continued to reside till his death.
+This pillow, as it is called, had perhaps been used for a seat, for
+it was covered with bullock’s hide, and strengthened by ribs of
+iron; but the covering having been worn into holes with age and
+use, it was yesterday pulled to pieces by its owner, who found it
+to be stuffed with rags and cloth cut into small bits. In the
+centre of the pillow, however, to the woman’s surprise, she
+discovered a little bag of striped satin, and feeling something
+like a book, as she says within it, she was afraid to open it
+herself, but presently sent word to Abba of the circumstance, who
+forthwith came and imparted it to me, bringing the little bag along
+with him. On opening it I found a little iron frame, round which
+had been wound, with much ingenuity and care, a great quantity of
+cotton thread, which encompassed it perhaps not less than ten
+thousand times; and in consequence of its entangled state, it was
+provokingly troublesome to take off. Affixed to the little iron
+instrument, which is said to be a child’s handcuff of foreign
+manufacture, and underneath the cotton, was an old manuscript,
+which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> according to
+Abba’s opinion is a native charm. But as I mistrusted his knowledge
+of the Arabic language, and doubted his ability to give a proper
+interpretation of the contents of the paper, in my own judgment, I
+was induced to believe it to be neither more nor less than a charm
+of some kind. Therefore, I purchased the manuscript, because it
+might be of greater consequence than I imagined, and because the
+bag in which it had been enveloped was of European satin, and the
+ink with which it had been written very different from that which
+is used by the Arabs, resembling our own so closely, that the
+difference in the colour of both cannot be distinguished. We were
+advised by no means to intimate to the king the nature of Abba’s
+inquiries, for the people are all afraid of him, and declare that
+if he knew of any individual that had secreted ever so trifling a
+part of Mr. Park’s property, he would be beheaded without
+mercy.</p>
+
+<p>‘I felt considerably better this morning, and therefore
+determined to remain no longer in Wowow, but to leave as soon as my
+horse should be got ready. Accordingly I went to the king to pay my
+respects and take my farewell of him before my departure. I
+expressed my acknowledgments for the good reception and generous
+hospitality my brother and I had experienced from him and his
+subjects, and then requested permission to take my leave. But the
+monarch was unwilling<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_142">[142]</span> to part with me so easily, and detained me
+in his company rather longer than I liked, conversing on matters
+foreign to my purpose. I related to him, at his own request, an
+account of the power, the riches, and the glory of England, and
+kept him in an ecstasy and silent wonderment for some time. “Is all
+this true?” said the old man to Paskoe, who was at my side. “It is
+true,” answered Paskoe, “for I have seen it.” “Wonderful people!”
+said the king. We then chatted for a long time about other things.
+The canoe, he observed, which he had procured for us, was an
+excellent one; he much admired the appearance of the horse he had
+often seen me ride, and said that, as that animal could be of no
+service to us on the water, he had no objection to exchange his
+excellent canoe for him; and if one should be of greater value than
+the other, he would cheerfully give the difference in cowries,
+provided we would consent to the same measure if the horse was of
+less value. All this I told him was undoubtedly very fair, but as
+the Midīki herself had agreed to take all the trouble of making the
+bargain, it was useless on our parts to enter into any arrangements
+with him; indeed he was candid enough to tell me so, yet he wished
+to beguile the time away as well as he could, and he continued the
+conversation for no other purpose; whereas I was weary of
+it,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> and impatient
+to be gone, for the sun was already high, and the day promised to
+be oppressively hot.</p>
+
+<p>‘Before I was suffered to leave him, however, he endeavoured
+with energy to impress upon my mind the high sense he entertained
+of Europeans, who were so widely different, he said, from the
+Arabs; so much kinder, so much better, so much superior in every
+way. He loved white men of the west, because good fortune was
+always sure to attend their footsteps wherever they went; all lands
+which they had visited had been blessed in them; and he had no
+doubt that after our departure Wowow would be similarly favoured.
+He would pray to God, therefore, to prosper us in our undertaking,
+and he felt assured that we should reach our native country, and he
+should see us at Wowow again before he died. Then thanking the old
+king again for the various kindnesses he had shown us, and likewise
+for his good wishes, which I returned fourfold, we shook hands
+heartily, and having taken my farewell, I rode out of the city.</p>
+
+<p>‘The journey was long and irksome, and the weather proved, as we
+had prognosticated, inexpressibly warm; but at three o’clock in the
+afternoon we entered and halted for awhile under a tree at a rural
+little village embosomed in magnificent trees, which is peopled
+with emigrants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> from
+Nouffie, and as I was exhausted by fatigue, and too unwell to
+travel further, we agreed to tarry here for the night. The poor
+harmless villagers, loving quiet and tranquillity rather than noise
+and disturbance, fled some few years ago from the persecutions and
+exactions of the Magīa, and from all the horrors of a civil war,
+which was ravaging their country like a consuming fire, and
+desolating all the most beautiful of her provinces, and sought
+refuge in this peaceful village, which lies in one of the most
+sequestered vallies in the world. They have now sons and daughters,
+who seem to enjoy with them the delights of privacy and retirement
+which they had been so solicitous to obtain; for here these simple
+blessings are in their fullest perfection. They seldom see the face
+of a stranger, because their hamlet is situated at a good distance
+from the road-side, and because the way to it from thence is dark,
+difficult, and lonely; nevertheless a traveller sometimes strays to
+their dwellings, and when that is the case they receive him with
+hospitality, and endeavour to make him comfortable by kindness. A
+river flows near the village, which is said to be full of fish, and
+this is a source of employment to some of its inhabitants, and of
+advantage to all. The men are not only skilful fishermen, but they
+understand husbandry as well as their neighbours; they
+cultivate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> large
+quantities of grain, and grow beans, indigo, and yams in abundance.
+They likewise keep poultry, and have flocks of sheep and goats: so
+that though their dress be poor and mean, yet they are rich as
+regards the necessaries of life, and have the means of enjoying a
+few of what are considered in this country as its luxuries.</p>
+
+<p>‘In the evening, when the sun was going down, and when the
+birds, recovering from the sultry heat of the day, had begun to
+warble in the coolness of evening, the elders of the village
+assembled under the spreading branches of a noble tree to spend an
+hour or two in familiar chat, in pursuance of their common
+practice. To promote their cheerfulness and assist their
+conversation, large calabashes of strong home-brewed beer were
+placed by the side of them. Having swallowed two or three large
+draughts, the old men drew close to each other, and the venerable
+chronicler of the hamlet, in an under tone, started a conversation
+respecting their guest, the fearful white man of the west; and
+various and horrible were the conjectures of each on the
+cannibalism of his countrymen; their mysterious supernatural
+powers, and their partiality for the blood of black men in
+particular. Their conversation became more serious as the beer
+begun to operate on the old men, and as the dusk of evening came
+on, they drew still closer together; their legs, which had before
+been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> stretched out
+carelessly and comfortably at full length on the ground, were now
+gathered up under them; and every now and then they ventured to
+look back over their shoulders to steal a glance at me, for I was
+not far off, but this only seemed to inspire them with greater fear
+than before. The younger natives were about this time returning to
+the village from their usual occupations by the river side, and in
+the fields, and they stopped to join the company of the old men.
+The latter were almost naked, and the young men and girls were
+perfectly so, as well as the children of both sexes, which had been
+attracted to the party, and stood listening to the tales of horror
+which were related. One of our men had been sitting all the while
+with them, partaking of their beer, and had been silent till he
+conceived it almost time to retire, when he endeavoured to
+undeceive them in regard to their opinion of the unnatural
+propensities of white men, and to overthrow all the visions of
+bloody adventures which they had imbibed in their infancy, and
+cherished in their old age, and which had this evening been
+strengthened almost to realities by my presence, assisted by the
+effects of the beer they had drunk. But their love for the
+marvellous could not so easily be eradicated from their minds, and
+they turned a deaf ear to his remarks. The children shunned my hut
+as if it contained a serpent or a scorpion, and one or
+two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> of them that
+met me by accident, started, then looked anxiously, eagerly, and
+entreatingly at me for a moment, as if overcome by terror, and then
+shrieked aloud and ran away.</p>
+
+<p>‘The elderly men of the village perform no manner of work, but
+reserve it for their children and grand-children, who labour for
+them without reluctance. The former lounge away their existence
+chiefly under the large tree above-mentioned, where they may be
+seen at all hours of a fine day, sitting in a group, the very
+picture of indolence, ease, peace, and comfort, and where they chat
+away the hours as thoughtlessly as if they were to live in this
+world for ever. They have no troubles, no difficulties, and no
+cares to interrupt their enjoyment. With what tranquillity and
+happiness does their life pass away! How smoothly and serenely do
+they go down to the grave!</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Saturday, August 21st.</em>—We breakfasted early this
+morning on a cold fowl and yam, which was last night sent me by a
+blacksmith; but we found it impossible to leave the village as
+early as could have been wished, owing to a heavy shower which was
+falling. As soon as the rain had ceased, we set out on our journey.
+Four men, sent by the king of Wowow, and three other individuals,
+amongst whom was his brother, accompanied us to Boossâ for
+eye-water, which they had induced us to promise them by their
+importunities and solicitations.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_148">[148]</span> Another man was in our train, who was the
+bearer of a present from the king of Wowow to his sister, the queen
+of Boossà. This present consisted of seven or eight yams, which are
+just the value of double the number of kidney potatoes in England!
+Thus attended we journeyed to the river side, which is only a short
+distance from the village. A large quantity of fish had just been
+inclosed, which was announced by loud drumming from the fishermen,
+as a signal to their companions at the hamlet to come and assist in
+securing them. The river happened to be rather shallow, but it was
+interspersed with dark projecting rocks, that would render it
+impossible for any one to proceed even in a canoe either up or down
+the stream; yet we crossed it with little or no difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>‘We found the road to be overgrown with rank grass and luxuriant
+vegetation, and so intricate, that we were obliged to travel very
+slowly, and my horse stumbled and fell with me repeatedly. In
+crossing the next river, where there is a ferry, for the first time
+since we have been in Africa, we saw a mother beating her child
+very unmercifully. The woman was wild with passion, but we
+succeeded in reconciling her to the object of her cruelty. Between
+eleven and twelve o’clock we came in sight of the walls of Boossà;
+it was raining, and one of our men, who had been sent by my brother
+for that purpose, met us on the road with a change of<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> apparel for myself. I was
+rejoiced to find my brother perfectly recovered from his
+indisposition, and we felt as much pleasure in the meeting as
+friends that had long parted. On my entrance he was busily engaged
+in making preparations for our voyage down the Niger. The king of
+Boossà’s messenger is expected here in a day or two, when we hope
+and expect that everything will be settled to our
+satisfaction.’</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span><a id=
+"c12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">Scandal of the Natives — Treaty for a Canoe —
+Defeats of the Falátahs at Catsheenah and Zaria — Measures of the
+King of Boossà for the future safety of the Travellers — Artifices
+for obtaining Presents from them — Preparations for Celebrating the
+Mahomedan Festival — The King’s Drummer — The Horse Race, and the
+King’s Speech — A troublesome Servant — Festivities at Boossà — The
+Eclipse — Version of it by the Arab Priests — Effects on the People
+— Messengers from Borgoo — Caffas — Mode of Preparing them —
+Arrival of a Fatakie — The Ashantees’ method of killing Elephants —
+Married Slaves — Their Treatment — Permission for Departure
+requested — El Kanemee the Arab — The King assents to the
+Travellers leaving Boossà — The Messenger from Rabba with the
+King’s Son — Joy of the King of Boossà at his arrival — Opinion of
+his general conduct towards the Travellers.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Monday, August 23rd.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">It</span> was the earnest and oft-repeated desire of the chief
+of Wowow, while we resided in his town, that we should return from
+Boossà and spend the approaching holiday with him, to which we
+thought proper to accede; indeed the old man had behaved so well to
+us, that we did not like to make him an ungrateful return. But his
+sister, the Midīki, is already jealous of her brother, because,
+perhaps, we have given him so good a character, and she says that
+she is apprehensive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span>
+he may procure from us more than she is willing that he should
+have; and so she has not only set her husband’s mind against the
+measure, but she has slandered and defamed the character of her
+brother to us most shamefully.</p>
+
+<p>This is positively the worst trait in the character of the
+queen, for in other respects she is an amiable good kind of woman
+enough. In more civilized, or rather more polished countries, among
+the reasonable part of mankind, a mutual interchange of benevolent
+intentions produces a reciprocity of kind feeling, and we would
+hope that the present of yams from her brother would excite the
+Midīki’s more generous and affectionate sentiments for him. Yet
+this despicable vice of slander is universal in Africa; the people
+all speak ill of each other, from the monarch to the slave. We
+shall now be compelled to remain in Boossà, till the period arrives
+for our final departure from the country.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon the expected messenger arrived from Wowow, with
+full power to treat with the Midīki for the purchase of our canoe;
+and though we are the parties most concerned in this business, we
+are allowed to say nothing at all about it. We have just learnt
+that the bargain has been concluded; we are to give both our horses
+for the canoe; and if the king of Wowow should fancy the animals to
+be more than equivalent to the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_152">[152]</span> value of the boat, he has promised to send
+us the balance in money (cowries). This is infinitely better than
+we could have done ourselves; we should not have contrived matters
+half so well, for the youngest of the horses we had previously made
+a present of to the king of Boossà, but most likely, owing to
+Paskoe’s misrepresentation, or misinterpretation, the monarch was
+not made sensible of the circumstance. The canoe will be sent here
+in a day or two, when we shall begin to prepare her for the water
+without delay. Our men have made an attempt to drive the bullock,
+which was given us by the king of Wowow, from that city to Boossà,
+no less than four different times, but each time the ungovernable
+and furious animal has broken its ropes, gored the people and
+returned to Wowow. As we have no means of preserving its flesh,
+should we slaughter the bullock before we leave, we intend to sell
+it here, if by any means it can be brought into the town.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, August 24th.</em>—Accounts have reached Boossà of
+the total discomfiture of the Falátahs in the kingdom of
+<em>Catsheenah</em>, where, it is said, there has lately been much
+fighting; and that every Falátah has been expelled from the city of
+Catsheenah, which had been occupied by that singular people, ever
+since the first successes of their prophet and general, Danfodio.
+Doncassà, who is the true and legitimate king of Hàussa, has
+been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span> solicited to
+quit <em>Màradie</em>, wherein he has resided for many years, and
+invited to return to his ancient capital.</p>
+
+<p>The reverses of the Falátahs have not ended here, for the people
+of the little but fertile kingdom of Zaria, of which Zeg Zeg is the
+capital, have also, with the assistance of the Bornouese, risen
+against their conquerors, defeated them in two or three
+engagements, driven out the Falátahs, and returned to the
+allegiance of their own native Prince, who was formerly, and will
+be again, tributary to the sheikh of Bornou. Zaria is not in
+Hàussa, but adjoins that country; the natives also have a different
+language from the people of Hàussa. It appears that the faith and
+confidence which the Falátahs had in the prophetic mission of
+Danfodio, and which infused in them a degree of boldness, courage,
+and impetuosity, which is not natural to their dispositions, has
+not been extended to Bello, his son and successor, and to this is
+attributed the serious reverses and defeats which they have lately
+experienced; for though they considered themselves invincible, they
+are constitutionally as spiritless and cowardly in war, and as
+indolent in peace, as the original inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The sheikh of Bornou has recently issued a proclamation, that no
+slaves from the interior countries are to be sent for sale farther
+west than Wowow, so that none will be sent in future
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> thence to the
+sea-side. The greatest and most profitable market for slaves is
+said to be at Timbuctoo, whither their owners at present transport
+them to sell to the Arabs, who take them over the deserts of Zahara
+and Libya, to resell in the Barbary states. An Arab has informed us
+that many of his countrymen trade as far as Turkey in Europe, with
+their slaves, where they dispose of them for two hundred and fifty
+dollars each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, Aug. 25th.</em>—We despatched one of our men,
+named Ibrahim, this morning, to Coulfò, with our ass, and a
+quantity of needles to sell. With him the king has sent a
+messenger, who has been commissioned to visit all the towns and
+villages on the Nouffie side of the Quorra, as far as the Falátah
+town of <em>Rabba</em>, and to request their chiefs and governors,
+in the name of the king of Boossà, to suffer us to pass down the
+river without inquiry or molestation.</p>
+
+<p>Rabba is reported to be four days’ journey from hence by water,
+and seven by land. It is said to be a fine handsome town, whose
+inhabitants are rich, numerous, and powerful, and that it is
+embellished all round with a vast quantity of graceful palm-trees.
+Indeed, all the palm-oil which is used in this country is brought
+from thence; and European salt is brought from towns a little
+farther down the Niger, so that Rabba cannot be a great way from
+the sea. The old Prince of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_155">[155]</span> Wowow intends following the example of the
+king of this place, by despatching a messenger as far down the
+Yarriba side of the river as he is acquainted with. Should any of
+the chiefs be averse to our travelling by water through their
+territories, they may have it in their power to annoy us and impede
+our progress, but if the measure should please them, they will be
+able to render us the most essential service. The Falátahs will be
+the most difficult people to deal with; they never approve of a
+foreigner or stranger of consequence coming into their dominions,
+unless he consent to visit their monarch at Soccatoo. We intended
+passing Rabba by night and so avoid meeting with any of its
+inhabitants; but now, as they will receive intelligence of the
+exact period of our departure from Boossà, and our consequent
+approach to their town, it is useless to think of shunning them. We
+never dreamt of requesting such a thing from the king; in fact it
+met with our decided disapprobation; but he would not listen to our
+objections, and observed that no exertion should be spared on his
+part to ensure our safety and promote our intentions, which he
+could not promise before he had officially acquainted the different
+chiefs on the banks of the river that the white men were under his
+protection, and had set out under his auspices, and therefore he
+hoped and believed, that our persons<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_156">[156]</span> would be respected, and our property and
+people held sacred by them all. The messenger is not expected to
+return for a fortnight, for the journey is long and disagreeable;
+but whether we shall be obliged to wait till he comes back, we have
+not yet ascertained.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, August 27th.</em>—This forenoon we sent Paskoe’s
+wife to the king for the favour of a little unadulterated salt,
+because there is such a great quantity of ashes and other spurious
+ingredients mixed up with that which is publicly sold in the
+market, that we could never eat it with pleasure. Both king and
+queen embraced the opportunity of admiring the shape and beauty of
+the salt-box, and spoke in rapturous terms of the lustre of its
+appearance, and the ingenuity of its contrivance. ‘Alla, how
+wonderful!’ said they; ‘even the most trifling articles belonging
+to the white men are fit for the use of the mightiest kings. Alas!
+Alla has given them all the glory and riches of the world, and its
+knowledge, and left none whatever for black men!’</p>
+
+<p>The king was affected! He thrust the vessel into the pocket of
+his tobe, smoothed it down with his hand, looked melancholy, and
+said: ‘How nicely it fits! what a beautiful thing! how convenient
+it would be in travelling.’ He then took it out again, turned it
+round and round, opened and shut it repeatedly, and then
+bestowing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span> on it a
+last commendation, as outrageously as any of the former, it was
+returned to us filled with genuine salt. Who could not understand
+the meaning of all this? Now this handsome salt-cellar is of
+latten, and was formerly a common round tinder-box; and because we
+had nothing better for the purpose, we deprived it of the
+candlestick on its cover a short time ago, and converted it to its
+present use. The tin, moreover, has been burnt off from many parts
+of it, and Paskoe’s wife not being an admirer of cleanliness, it
+has lost much of its original brightness. The king’s encomiums were
+therefore nothing more than an indirect and ingenious solicitation
+of the article for his own use, which was further apparent by
+desiring the woman to relate to us no part of the conversation that
+had passed between them, or in other words, that she should tell us
+every syllable. We could not help admiring the delicacy of the
+king, and sent back the tinder-box to him immediately. The bearer
+was rewarded handsomely for her trouble, and we received as many
+thanks as when he accepted the silver medal and chain which we had
+offered him.</p>
+
+<p>It is by such means as this that the chiefs and rulers of this
+country, ashamed of making a direct application for anything in our
+possession to which they may have taken a fancy, endeavour to
+obtain it. If, however, the hint does<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_158">[158]</span> not succeed in making a visible impression,
+less delicate measures are presently resorted to; and, when every
+other expedient fails, they cast aside the reserve and bashfulness
+which had influenced them at first, and express their meaning in
+language which cannot be misunderstood. In this respect the chiefs
+and governors are all alike from Badagry to the metropolis of
+Yàoorie.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, August 31st.</em>—A messenger with a canoe arrived
+to-day from the king of Wowow, but it is so very small that it is
+wholly inadequate for our purpose. This is a most provoking
+circumstance, because a larger canoe must be procured, and this
+will occasion much loss of time. Between the chief of Wowow and his
+sister, the Midīki, we have been completely taken in. Boats of a
+considerable size, are kept, it is said, at a small town on the
+banks of the Niger, called <em>Lever</em>, and thither we have
+resolved to proceed as soon as the Boossà messenger shall have
+returned from Rabba, and get a canoe prepared with as much
+expedition as possible. The horses given in exchange to the prince
+of Wowow are large, handsome, and superior animals, worth in
+England at least sixty pounds, and their value here is little less;
+yet this canoe, which has been sent us is scarcely worth as many
+pence. There is infinitely more difficulty, and greater bustle and
+discussion in simply purchasing a canoe here, than<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> there would be in Europe in
+drawing up a treaty of peace, or in determining the boundaries of
+an empire, such vast importance do the people attach to the most
+trifling matters in the world.</p>
+
+<p>A man also arrived in this city to-day from a town near Jenna,
+in Yarriba, whither the king had sent him some time since. He
+reports that a vessel has lately arrived at Badágry, and by the
+man’s account, she is in all probability a slaver either from the
+Havana, or from the Brazils.</p>
+
+<p>This is the eve of the much talked of Mahomedan festival, and
+the inhabitants of the neighbouring towns and villages, resolving
+to enjoy themselves in the holidays, are already resorting here in
+great numbers. The disposition of every one appears to be softened
+into good nature, by the bare anticipation of the festival, and joy
+beams from their countenances. The very dogs, which at other times
+receive unkind treatment, and are always badly used, now run about
+wagging their tails with an air of cheerfulness and courage which
+they assume only on such important occasions as these, for they are
+days of grace and respite to them, poor brutes. Men and women,
+elated with the thoughts of the pleasure which awaits them
+to-morrow, are enjoying themselves in singing and dancing, and are
+seen talking and laughing in every corner; while the younger
+children, quite naked, are as frolicsome<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_160">[160]</span> as their grandmothers, and are either
+rolling on the ground or skipping along the turf like ‘little
+playful fawns.’ On this extraordinary and momentous occasion, a
+bullock nearly half grown has been slaughtered by the Midīki, to
+supply the wants of the good people of Boossà, and those of a great
+influx of strangers and visiters, so that every one who can afford
+it may buy and eat. There has been also in the market a more than
+usual quantity of corn and rice,—indeed nothing is wanting to
+please the taste, and satisfy the appetite of all, and to render
+the festivities and rejoicings complete.</p>
+
+<p>A circumstance, however, occurred this morning, which threw a
+damp and chill on the spirits of the king, and threatened to turn a
+day of gaiety and enjoyment into one of mourning and sorrow. It
+appears that a few weeks since, our <em>quondam</em> host, the
+drummer, was guilty of criminal conversation with the wife of the
+king’s eldest son, who is governor of a town a few miles from
+Boossà, and since the affair happened, he has not visited the city
+till to-day. Nothing would either have been said or done to the
+drummer by way of censure or punishment, if he had not, like rakes
+of whiter faces, boasted of his gallantry, and spoken in
+disrespectful terms of his paramour. When this had reached the ears
+of the elderly females of the town, in order<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_161">[161]</span> to vindicate the honour of their sex,
+and chastise the calumniator, they arose in a body, waylaid the
+unfortunate musician, and applied their hands and fists so
+vigorously to his face and person, that he will remember the
+drubbing as long as he lives. On the arrival of the prince to-day,
+he sought the drummer to slay him, for he felt his character
+injured and his honour tarnished; and therefore commanded his
+attendants to lay violent hands upon him the moment they could find
+him. Now the drummer had recovered from the effects of the women’s
+punishment, and was exercising his profession outside the king’s
+house, totally absorbed in the inspiring music of his instrument,
+when by the sudden appearance of the prince before him, he started
+as though he had been in the folds of a serpent. He was
+self-convicted, and trembled with fear; he knew and felt that no
+time was to be lost, so uttering a faint cry, he sprang from the
+spot, fled from the presence of his enemy, drum and all, and ran
+with astonishing celerity towards a corn-field, where he
+endeavoured to elude the vigilance of his pursuers. But his
+instrument was large and clumsy, and becoming entangled in the
+corn-stocks, he was confused and perplexed, and lost much time in
+casting it from him. Meantime he was chased by the prince’s
+servants, who were all armed with large heavy bludgeons, and by
+them he was soon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>
+overtaken. These applied their weapons with such good heart, and so
+effectually, on the person of the licentious, sinful drummer, that
+his head was broken, his countenance disfigured, his hands and arms
+rendered powerless, and the other parts of his body almost
+pommelled to a mummy. When they were tired of their task, the men
+desisted from further punishment; and the drummer, covered with
+blood, by the assistance of people that were passing near at the
+time, dragged his limbs after him to the king’s house. Here he made
+a long and grievous complaint to his master, who compassionated the
+musician, and was so infuriated against his son, that he commanded
+his servants to behead him instantly. The monarch, however, was
+restrained from repeating this sanguinary mandate by the
+supplications of his principal people, who had sided with the
+prince, and now attempted to justify his conduct, and together with
+every woman in the place, more especially his own wife, declared
+that the drummer richly deserved the chastisement which he had
+received. The wounded man refused at first to be comforted, but he
+was at length appeased by the condolence and encouraging words of
+the king, who has made him a present of a handsome tobe; and thus
+the affair was compromised, and joy again reigned in Boossà.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, September 1st.</em>—Day was drawing<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> to a close, and evening fast
+approaching, when the king came out of his residence to show
+himself to his people. He was attended by a number of his head men,
+with whom he perambulated the town; and afterwards proceeded
+outside the gates to offer up a short prayer with them to the gods
+of his religion, for he is still a pagan, as all his fathers were,
+though he employs Mahomedan priests to pray for his welfare, and
+intercede with their prophet in his behalf, agreeably to their form
+of worship. Several musicians were in attendance with drums, fifes,
+and long Arab trumpets of brass; these men preceded their
+sovereign, and played lustily on their instruments all the while he
+was returning to his house. He shortly came out again, and rode
+slowly up the race-course, attended by people of both sexes most
+uncouthly dressed, singing and dancing before him, and followed by
+a party of well-dressed men mounted on mettlesome horses, and
+equipped as if for war. On our saluting him, the monarch stopped
+and sent us a goora-nut, which, on such an occasion as this, is
+considered as a mark of great condescension, and a sign of peculiar
+favour; and he stayed opposite us at least ten minutes, to give us
+a fair opportunity of admiring his grandeur, and diverting
+ourselves by the frolicsome gambols of his attendants. Smiling at
+our wonderment, and gratified with the respect we paid him by
+discharging<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> our
+pistols close to his person, he nodded and passed on. The king was
+mounted on a fine handsome grey horse, sumptuously caparisoned;
+while he himself is a noble and commanding figure on horseback, and
+was dressed extremely well, in a red cap and large turban of the
+same colour, a silk damask tobe of green and crimson, made full and
+flowing, red cloth trousers and Arab boots. Groups of well-dressed
+individuals were scaled under every tree with spears, quivers of
+arrows, long bows, and ornamented cows’ tails. These latter were
+flourished about as the people sang; their owners threw them high
+into the air, and danced at the same time in the most extraordinary
+manner, and flung their limbs about as though they had been
+actuated by a supernatural power. Every one was exhilarated and in
+motion,—both horseman and footman, woman and child. The musicians
+also, not satisfied by making the whole of Boossà echo with the
+most grating and outrageous sounds conceivable, both sung, or
+rather screamed and danced, twisting their mouths, with their
+exertions, into all manner of wry and comical shapes. The spectacle
+altogether was odd and grotesque beyond description, and such an
+one could never enter into the dreams or waking visions of an
+European. Guns were fired by the king’s followers, and other
+obstreperous and astounding noises were made by the
+people.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> Never did
+we see the king in a happier mood; his satisfaction seemed to be
+quite complete. He smiled graciously on all around him; and
+bestowed many an arch and significant look upon us, as if he would
+have said, ‘Can <em>your</em> sovereign boast so splendid a retinue
+as mine, or display so much regal splendour?’</p>
+
+<p>The ceremony was long and fatiguing; and though the king was
+screened from the sun’s rays by two large ponderous umbrellas, and
+though two men were standing by, constantly fanning him, yet
+perspiration stood in large drops upon his forehead, and he
+appeared nearly exhausted. After our curiosity had been amply
+gratified, the king rode away, preceded by his singing and dancing
+women, his musicians, his bowmen, and his spearmen, with all their
+noise and clamour, and instantly began to make preparations for a
+horse-race. The course was short, rough, and uneven, and the
+competition between the riders by no means animated. Indeed the
+race was of short duration, and very inferior to the horse-racing
+of either Kiáma or Wowow. The king is a graceful rider, and
+displayed his horsemanship to much advantage by galloping up and
+down the course; and, owing to his advantageous stature, his
+appearance was very becoming. The sun was then setting, and as soon
+as he had disappeared, the amusements ceased. The people, both
+strangers and inhabitants, were then collected<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_166">[166]</span> together before the king’s house, for
+the purpose of hearing an oration from their monarch; for, in
+pursuance of an ancient and established practice, the king of
+Boossà annually harangues his people on the celebration of this
+festival. The sovereign is at least a head taller than any of his
+subjects, so that he was a remarkable and conspicuous object to
+every one of his audience. If such a comparison may be ventured on,
+the commencement of his speech was in its nature not much unlike
+that delivered on the opening of parliament by his Majesty of
+England. The king of Boossà began by assuring his people of the
+internal tranquillity of the empire, and of the friendly
+disposition of foreign powers towards him. He then exhorted his
+hearers to attend to the cultivation of the soil, to work
+diligently, and live temperately; and concluded with an injunction
+for them all to be abstemious in the use of beer. He declared that
+too much indulgence in it was the source of much evil and
+wretchedness, and the cause of most of the quarrels and
+disturbances that had taken place in the city. ‘Go; retire to rest
+soberly and cheerfully,’ said the king, ‘and do as I have requested
+you, when you will be an example to your neighbours, and win the
+good opinion and applause of mankind.’ The king’s speech lasted for
+three-quarters of an hour. He spoke vehemently and with much
+eloquence; his language was forcible<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_167">[167]</span> and impressive, and his action appropriate
+and commanding; and he dismissed the assembly with a graceful and
+noble air. Instead of a sceptre the monarch flourished the tuft of
+a lion’s tail.</p>
+
+<p>While the king was haranguing his subjects, and while all of
+them were listening with respect and attention to the precepts of
+morality and virtue which he recommended, two of our own men, one
+of whom was intoxicated, were fighting and blustering, and making a
+great uproar among the people: my brother endeavoured to separate
+them, but all his efforts were unavailing and abortive, and he only
+received severe blows on the breast for his pains. The fight was
+observed by the king, who seemed distressed and angry, and rode up
+to the men three different times, and commanded them to forbear and
+be quiet, but his interference was regarded with no more respect
+than my brother’s. My brother and I, perceiving that the principal
+of the fellows would not be pacified by any other means, gave
+directions that he might immediately be secured. But the people of
+Boossà are gentle and compassionate in their disposition, and they
+not only regretted that the man was to receive punishment, but were
+actually afraid to come near him, for he was wild as a maniac, and
+our own men were obliged to lay hold of him, and attempted to bind
+him with ropes. This was no easy matter, for he struggled hard with
+them;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> but after an
+hour’s desperate resistance, they succeeded in securing him, and he
+was subsequently confined in irons for the night, much against the
+wishes of the king and his people. This individual, whose name I
+forbear to mention, is a mulatto, and was born in the British
+colony of Nova Scotia, from whence he was removed in his childhood,
+with his parents, to Sierra Leone. While yet a boy, he was sent to
+sea; and before he had attained to maturity, he had filled the
+different characters of a slave, a seaman, a pirate, and the master
+of a vessel. He afterwards volunteered into the British navy, and
+became a man-of-war’s man; but for a serious misdemeanour, he was
+flogged through the fleet in the Mediterranean, and deserted in
+consequence. We found him at Badágry, where he had suffered a
+fortnight’s imprisonment, by order of Adooley, for theft. When we
+first saw him, he told us a long and pitiful story, of his having
+been born a British subject, but falling sick on board of a
+merchant vessel, which was trading on the coast, he was set on
+shore about five years ago by orders of his captain, and from that
+time up to the period of his joining our party at Badágry, he had
+been a slave to Adooley, for the captain had left him to his fate.
+As we knew the man would be extremely useful in a canoe, to the
+management of which he has been accustomed from his infancy, and
+that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> he also
+understood the cleaning and repairing of guns, besides other useful
+matters, and as we likewise believed his artful tale, we obtained
+the consent of the Badágrian chief, whose slave he was, to part
+with him, provided we would pledge ourselves to bring him back with
+us in safety. In Yarriba, we could by no means complain of his
+general conduct; he was always willing to do everything we required
+of him, and was by far the most diligent and useful man of the
+party. At Boossà and at Yàoorie, however, his evil propensities and
+bad conduct began to display themselves: he became idle, drunken,
+and careless, and purloined several little articles, which,
+intrinsically, were of no value; but in the reduced state of our
+finances, they were of great consequence to us. Besides which, he
+is one of the most abandoned creatures in the world; and it was a
+common practice with him to absent himself from our party several
+days together, so that we saw nothing of him, and when he returned,
+was accompanied by complaints from the native women. This man’s
+conduct has given us both much uneasiness, anxiety, and
+apprehension; we scarcely know what to do with him, he is so
+profligate and vicious: we thought of sending him back to Yarriba
+by a party of men who will leave hence for Keeshee in a day or two,
+but they dread the thoughts of his company, and refuse to take him
+along<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span> with them for
+any consideration. He has already threatened the lives of more than
+one of our men, and they begin to tremble with apprehension for
+their personal safety. In his sober moments he is quiet, orderly,
+and good-natured; and it is only when his furious passions are
+excited by drinking, that he becomes altogether ungovernable, and
+displays all his fiend-like disposition, to the danger of our
+lives. We are likewise apprehensive that the natives of the country
+will entertain but a despicable opinion of us, when they reflect
+upon the outrageous conduct of this man, for his features are cast
+in the European mould; he dresses in the English costume, like
+ourselves; he speaks our language with readiness, and writes it
+with facility.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, September 2nd.</em>—Yesterday was considered as a
+day of amusement and recreation for men on horseback only; but this
+has been devoted almost exclusively to dancing and singing, and
+other trifling diversions, which are more generally relished by
+people of all ranks, and of both sexes. At an early hour in the
+morning, the people of the city, with musicians in their train,
+assembled in large groups, and continued parading the streets all
+day, and singing and dancing were kept up without intermission till
+four o’clock in the afternoon. Nothing could surpass the hilarity
+and general good humour which prevailed<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_171">[171]</span> among the people during the day. The
+features of every one were animated with joy. Theirs was no
+ordinary mirth; for being naturally of a warm-hearted, sanguine
+disposition, they entered into the sports of the day with a
+fervency which displayed itself in all manner of extraordinary
+tricks, gestures, and movements. This was a holiday for all, from
+the king to the meanest of his subjects. The old seemed to have
+forgotten their weight of years, the young knew no restraint, and
+those who before had talked of love in secret, now openly exchanged
+with each other</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Quips and cranks, and wanton
+wiles,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Nods and becks, and wreathed
+smiles.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A short relaxation from this tumultuous pastime was now obtained
+by some in making preparations for joining the king’s party, which
+was fast collecting at his house. Such diversions as theirs, so
+highly exciting and gratifying, are nevertheless wearisome to the
+strongest frame, and in this sultry climate must be particularly so
+to them. When they had all assembled, they presented a singular,
+grotesque, and striking appearance. A cluster of between sixty and
+seventy Falátahs, men, women, and children, were some standing and
+some sitting in front of the door-way, leading to the interior
+apartments. Their dresses were remarkably clean, neat, varied, and
+becoming; the long black hair of the women was
+ingeniously<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> and
+prettily braided, and confined in nets and caps; and their flowing
+garments of striped cotton swept along the ground: the men wore red
+caps, loose white tobes, and full trousers; and their little
+children were pleasingly clad and decorated with all the finery and
+ornaments which their parents had been able to bestow on them.
+These well-looking Falátahs formed the most interesting and
+agreeable assemblage of the whole; they had likewise more vivacity
+in their looks, and more quickness of action than any of their
+companions. To the right of them, in an enclosure of mud, was
+seated the Queen of Boossà, dressed loosely, though not
+inelegantly, in rich English silks, as spectatress of the
+amusements; behind her were the king’s other wives, and her own
+female slaves, who were pretty numerous. They formed also a
+cleanly, decent group, inferior only to the former. On each side of
+the Falátahs, and behind them, was a great number of other
+spectators, of all ranks, many of whom were standing, and many
+sitting on the turf and reclining against the trunks of trees. Most
+of the men were clad in the Mahomedan costume, with cap, tobe, and
+trousers; and the majority of the women were dressed in neat and
+durable country-cloths, which were carelessly thrown over the left
+shoulder, and reached to the ground, leaving the right arm and
+shoulder, and part of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_173">[173]</span> the right leg, uncovered. A few among them,
+however, wore common Manchester cottons, of a large, showy, and
+vulgar pattern, which were infinitely surpassed by their own
+country cloth.</p>
+
+<p>Although the king had not made his appearance, the amusements
+were carried on with much animation; and the dancers, far from
+being tired, seemed to imbibe fresh vigour and renewed activity;
+whilst the drummers, eight in number, with a fifer as an assistant,
+continued playing to them. A man first started from the crowd with
+a bundle of rushes in his hand, like a German broom, which he
+flourished over his head with inconceivable dexterity. After
+dancing awhile, he was joined by two Falátah women, who imitated
+his actions, and partook of his glee. One of them held a little
+girl by the hand; and the whole four individuals, man, women, and
+child, continued the dancing till they were completely fatigued,
+when they were succeeded by another party of three or four, and
+then another in like manner, so that there was not a moment’s pause
+in the dance at any time. They kept good time with the music and
+singing. But instead of the quick, lively motion which is generally
+observed on similar occasions, the dancers moved with a slow and
+measured step, in which there was nothing unbecoming or improper,
+and all seemed consistent with the rules of delicacy. For want of a
+proper fan, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>
+females used neat round mats of various colours; and it afforded us
+no little entertainment to see them placed before the mouth
+whenever they wished to hide their faces, or attempt to conceal
+their laughter.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the king was expected by every one with much anxiety
+and impatience, for as yet he had not been present to witness the
+diversions of his people; and it was not till past four in the
+afternoon that he showed himself from one of his huts. His arrival
+was welcomed by a spirited rally upon the drums, while he took his
+seat on a stool between the queen’s station and the group of
+Falátahs, and perceiving us among the crowd, he invited us to place
+ourselves near his person. Several attendants who had followed
+their master stood on each side of him, forming, if it may so be
+called, a ‘guard of honour.’ One of these men held two large
+bundles of spears, whose points or barbs were confined in caps of
+burnished brass, on which he rested his head with much solemnity,
+and with a slight inclination of the body; while from his temples
+was suspended a huge and enormous hat, made either of grass or
+rushes, which reached to the ground, and covered him like a shield.
+Others held loose bundles of spears, fans, and arrows, with the two
+prodigious Arab trumpets which have before been casually alluded
+to. Thus attended, the king entered into the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_175">[175]</span> spirit of the performances with a merry
+heart, and a determination to be pleased with them. He appeared to
+be by far the most delighted spectator of the whole, and signified
+his approbation by encouraging words and glances to those who
+danced or sung to his satisfaction. A cheerful smile animated his
+countenance during the whole time, and caused his features to
+assume an expression of good humour which it is a particular custom
+in him never to display so fully except on occasions of public
+festivity and enjoyment, though he is one of the pleasantest and
+best-tempered men that we have met with in Africa.</p>
+
+<p>There was an elderly female who danced alone before the king,
+and by the peculiarity of her looks, and her ludicrous and uncommon
+gestures, afforded us very great amusement. This woman is a tall,
+awkward, masculine, and uncomely figure; yet she endeavoured to
+look so serious at the same time with so arch a countenance, and
+with a half-averted glance smiled with so much artfulness and
+loving-kindness on her sovereign and his attendants, dancing at the
+same time with such an extraordinary motion of her person, that she
+obtained universal applause. This was a fair challenge to the king;
+and as soon as she had finished, the monarch himself arose and
+stepped into the ring to display his acquirements in the art. Every
+one stood on his legs, out of respect to their
+sovereign,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> as well
+to applaud his dancing, as to obtain a fairer opportunity of
+beholding his person; and a great press was made by the crowd in
+consequence, that they might gain a better view of him. The king
+moved with much stiffness and stateliness, which is at all times
+unbecoming in a dance; but the populace expressed their admiration
+of his abilities in shouts of joy, and certainly his attempts to
+please and amuse them deserved the full extent of applause. To us,
+however, it does not appear that Nature, which has been so
+bountiful to this beloved monarch in other respects, has fitted him
+for so active an amusement as this; for though his size approaches
+to the majestic, though he walks and rides with equal ease, and
+though the exercise by no means requires the greatest flexibility
+of body, his dance to us at least was a complete failure; for he
+has a foot which may be compared to that of a dromedary in point of
+size, and his toe is anything but ‘light and fantastic.’ When his
+first dance, which was much the same as that performed by his
+people, was concluded, the king began a second by imitating the
+canter of a native horse when going to war. This, as may be
+supposed, was an inexpressibly odd and whimsical experiment, but it
+lasted a short time only; for in a very few minutes he disappeared
+from the spectators by cantering into one of his huts, followed by
+the cheers of admiration and the acclamations of every one
+present.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span>The sun had now
+set, and with the departure of the prince the singing and dancing
+ceased for the evening; nevertheless all the people patiently
+awaited his return to the spot. Now, of all the celebrated dancers
+in the country, none can excel or equal the king of Wowow in grace,
+elegance, and vivacity; and the fame of his skill in this
+amusement, which is thought so much of in this country, is gone
+abroad into all lands: every one, even his enemies, acknowledge his
+superiority in this polite accomplishment; and the envious and
+malicious are compelled to own that he is without a rival from
+Bornou to the sea. Yet, notwithstanding his renown as a dancer, the
+chief is a very aged man, having a most solemn and forbidding
+aspect; and though he has evidently, to use a common expression,
+one foot in the grave, he is as active as a boy, and indulges
+largely in this his favourite amusement every Friday. It was in
+order for us to witness his elegant dancing, we have been told,
+that he pressed us with so much earnestness and importunity to
+spend the holidays at Wowow, which we should certainly have
+consented to, but for the discouragement our project received from
+the king of Boossà, who was envious of his celebrity, and therefore
+compelled, rather than enticed us to remain here, that we might see
+his personal accomplishments to advantage, witness the public
+gaiety and festivities of his people, and in his<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> imagination be struck with
+astonishment and admiration at his own perfection in the art of
+dancing.</p>
+
+<p>The Boossà people did not wait long for the reappearance of
+their monarch, for shortly after he came out to them, followed by a
+boy with two calabashes full of cowries, which were to be
+distributed among the multitude. But first of all the king took up
+a handful, and gave to each of the singers, dancers, and musicians,
+that had contributed so essentially to his entertainment; nor was
+the tall old woman forgotten, who had danced alone before him, for
+she received a double allowance. We were rather pleased at this,
+for she is our next-door neighbour, a poor old woman, who is very
+chatty and flippant, and has fallen in love with one of our young
+men, named Antonio. This having been done to the apparent
+satisfaction of all parties, the remainder of the cowries were
+scattered by the king’s own hand among the crowd to be scrambled
+for, which occasioned the most animating and amusing sight that can
+be conceived. Parents and children, brothers and sisters, strangers
+and friends, were scrambling and tumbling over each other, some on
+their faces and some on their knees, both giving and receiving
+cuffs and kicks in the scuffle to get at the money. This scramble
+lasted about ten minutes, when the party before the king’s house
+broke up; but the good-natured monarch, to show his affection for
+his subjects,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> whom
+he indeed regards with as much tenderness as if they were his
+children, was unwilling to send them to their homes without giving
+them another last treat, so he danced sideways half way up the
+race-course and back again to his residence with much stateliness.
+This was indeed a royal attempt; the midīki smiled with delight
+that she had <em>such</em> a spouse; the people were louder than
+ever in their shouts of approbation; all was noise, tumult, and
+confusion; their sovereign was more beloved than ever he had been;
+and as the evening closed in, silence was gradually restored, and
+the people retired to their homes. This was the last of the
+holidays, and the proceedings of this day have concluded their
+festivities.</p>
+
+<p>About ten o’clock at night, when we were sleeping on our mats,
+we were suddenly awoke by a great cry of distress from innumerable
+voices, attended by a horrid clashing and clattering noise, which
+the hour of the night tended to make more terrific. Before we had
+time to recover from our surprise, old Pascoe rushed breathless
+into our hut, and informed us with a trembling voice that ‘the sun
+was dragging the moon across the heavens.’ Wondering what could be
+the meaning of so strange and ridiculous a story, we ran out of the
+hut half dressed, and we discovered that the moon was totally
+eclipsed. A number of people were gathered together in our yard, in
+dreadful apprehension<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_180">[180]</span> that the world was at an end, and that this
+was but the ‘beginning of sorrows.’ We learnt from them that the
+Mahomedan priests residing in the city, having personified the sun
+and moon, had told the king and the people that the eclipse was
+occasioned through the obstinacy and disobedience of the latter
+luminary. They said that for a long time previously the moon had
+been displeased with the path she had been compelled to take
+through the heavens, because it was filled with thorns and briers,
+and obstructed with a thousand other difficulties; and therefore
+that, having watched for a favourable opportunity, she had this
+evening deserted her usual track, and entered into that of the sun.
+She had not, however, travelled far up the sky, on the forbidden
+road, before the circumstance was discovered by the sun, who
+immediately hastened to her in his anger, and punished her
+dereliction by clothing her in darkness, forcing her back to her
+own territories, and forbidding her to shed her light upon the
+earth. This story, whimsical as it may seem, was received with
+implicit confidence in its truth by the king and queen, and most of
+the people of Boossà; and the cause of the noises which we had
+heard, and which were still continuing with renewed vehemence, was
+explained to us by the fact that they were all ‘assembled together
+in the hope of being able to frighten away the sun to his proper
+sphere, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> leave
+the moon to enlighten the world as at other times.’ This is much
+after the manner of many savage nations.</p>
+
+<p>While our informant was yet speaking to us, a messenger arrived
+at our yard from the king, to tell us the above tale, and with an
+invitation to come to see him immediately. Therefore, slipping on
+the remainder of our clothes, we followed the man to the residence
+of his sovereign, from outside of which the cries proceeded, and
+here we found the king and his timid partner sitting on the ground.
+Their usual good spirits and cheerful behaviour had forsaken them
+entirely; both appeared overwhelmed with apprehension, and trembled
+at every joint. Like all their subjects, in the hurry of fear and
+the suddenness of the alarm, they had come out of their dwellings
+half dressed, the head and legs, and the upper part of their
+persons, being entirely exposed. We soon succeeded in quelling
+their fears, or at least in diminishing their apprehension. The
+king then observed, that neither himself nor the oldest of his
+subjects recollected seeing but one eclipse of the moon besides the
+one he was gazing at; that it had occurred exactly when the
+Falátahs began to be formidable in the country, and that it had
+forewarned them of all the wars, disasters, and calamities, which
+subsequently took place.</p>
+
+<p>We had seated ourselves opposite to the king<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> and queen, and within two or
+three feet of them, where we could readily observe the moon and the
+people without inconvenience, and carry on the conversation at the
+same time. If the royal couple shuddered with terror on beholding
+the darkened moon, we were scarcely less affected by the savage
+gestures of those within a few yards of us, and by their repeated
+cries, so wild, so loud, and so piercing, that an indescribable
+sensation of horror stole over us, and rendered us almost as
+nervous as those whom we had come to comfort. The earlier part of
+the evening had been mild, serene, and remarkably pleasant; the
+moon had arisen with uncommon lustre, and being at the full, her
+appearance was extremely delightful. It was the conclusion of the
+holidays, and many of the people were enjoying the delicious
+coolness of a serene night, and resting from the laborious
+exertions of the day; but when the moon became gradually obscured,
+fear overcame every one. As the eclipse increased, they became more
+terrified. All ran in great distress to inform their sovereign of
+the circumstance, for there was not a single cloud to cause so deep
+a shadow, and they could not comprehend the nature or meaning of an
+eclipse. The king was as easily frightened as his people, being
+equally simple and ignorant; he would not therefore suffer them to
+depart. Numbers sometimes beget courage and confidence, he thought;
+so he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span> commanded
+them to remain near his person, and to do all in their power to
+restore the lost glory of the moon.</p>
+
+<p>In front of the king’s house, and almost close to it, are a few
+magnificent cotton-trees, round which the soil had been freed from
+grass, &amp;c., for the celebration of the games. On this spot were
+the terrified people assembled, with every instrument capable of
+making a noise which could be procured in the whole town. They had
+formed themselves into a large treble circle, and continued running
+round with amazing velocity, crying, shouting, and groaning with
+all their might. They tossed and flung their heads about, twisted
+their bodies into all manner of contortions, jumped into the air,
+stamped with their feet on the ground, and flourished their hands
+above their heads. No scene in the romance of Robinson Crusoe was
+so wild and savage as this; and a large wood fire, with a few men
+spitted and roasting before it, was alone wanting to render it
+complete! Little boys and girls were outside the ring, running to
+and fro, clashing empty calabashes against each other, and crying
+bitterly; groups of men were blowing on trumpets, which produced a
+harsh and discordant sound; some were employed in beating old
+drums; others again were blowing on bullock’s horns; and in the
+short intervals between the rapid succession of all
+these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> fiend-like
+noises, was heard one more dismal than the rest, proceeding from an
+iron tube, accompanied by the clinking of chains. Indeed,
+everything that <em>could</em> increase the uproar was put in
+requisition on this memorable occasion; nor did it cease till
+midnight, when the eclipse had passed away. Never have we witnessed
+so extraordinary a scene as this. The diminished light, when the
+eclipse was complete, was just sufficient to enable us to
+distinguish the various groups of people, and contributed in no
+small degree to render the scene still more imposing. If an
+European, a stranger to Africa, were to be placed on a sudden in
+the midst of the terror-struck people, he would imagine himself to
+be among a legion of demons, holding a revel over a fallen spirit;
+so peculiarly unearthly, wild, and horrifying was the appearance of
+the dancing group, and the clamour which they made. It was perhaps
+fortunate for us that we had an almanac with us, which foretold the
+eclipse; for although we neglected to inform the king of this
+circumstance, we were yet enabled to tell him and his people the
+exact time of its disappearance. This succeeded in some measure in
+suppressing their fears, for they would believe anything we might
+tell them; and perhaps, also, it has procured for us a lasting
+reputation ‘and a name.’ ‘Oh,’ said the king, ‘there will be sorrow
+and crying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> this
+night from Wowow to Yàoorie. The people will have no one to comfort
+or condole with them; they will fancy this eclipse to be the
+harbinger of something very dreadful; and they will be in distress
+and trouble till the moon shall have regained her brightness.’ It
+was nearly one o’clock when we left the king and queen, to return
+to our hut; everything was then calm and silent, and we lay down to
+rest in peace.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, September 3d.</em>—The king’s messenger came to us
+this morning with the intelligence that his master had caught cold
+by exposing himself the preceding night, and was confined to his
+apartment with severe pains in the bowels. We have also to complain
+of a similar indisposition. One of our men, who offended so grossly
+at the horse-racing two days ago, has been liberated, and appears
+ashamed of himself and truly penitent. He promises to abstain from
+drink in future, to deport himself soberly and orderly, to lay
+aside all thoughts of revenge, and to be ready and willing at all
+times to do anything which may be required of him. Notwithstanding
+his protestations, however, we are resolved to place our guns and
+ammunition beyond his reach, together with all edged instruments
+whatsoever; for heretofore his temper has been known to be sullen,
+furious, and unforgiving, which may yet lead to disastrous
+consequences, and may involve us in difficulties.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span><em>Monday,
+September 6th.</em>—The man we sent to Coulfò, a fortnight since,
+to sell our ass, needles, &amp;c., is not yet returned to Boossà,
+though he has exceeded the period we had specified for his absence
+by three or four days. Fearing that something unpleasant may have
+happened to him, we this day despatched one of the king’s people to
+Coulfò, in order to ascertain the cause of his delay; and if
+nothing detains him more than a want of sale for his goods, he is
+to return instantly with this messenger, rather than put us to
+inconvenience by a longer stay in that city.</p>
+
+<p>The Niger is now completely full, and in many places its banks
+are already overflowed, so that it is extremely favourable for our
+proceeding down the river. With the change in the moon, however, we
+have had a constant succession of heavy showers, which have
+compelled us all day long to remain within doors, in a close,
+black, and smoky hut; having the disadvantage of damp, dirty walls,
+and of being pestered with myriads of black and white ants; and so
+long as the rains continue, we shall be able to take no other kind
+of exercise than that of moving round this miserable abode, like
+prisoners in a condemned cell. It is perhaps fortunate, after all,
+that our canoe has not been got ready so soon as we had
+anticipated, for constant exposure to the rains upon the water, in
+an open boat, would be extremely unpleasant.<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_187">[187]</span> Yet it is time that we should leave
+Boossà, for in spite of the friendship of the king and queen, more
+especially of the latter, which is declining very fast indeed,
+their benevolent feelings are growing colder every day; our
+resources at the same time are diminishing rapidly, and when they
+are gone, we know not what we shall do. We now receive only a
+calabash of <em>caffas</em> (a kind of dough or paste) from the
+king once in three days, so that we are compelled to eat them, at
+times, either in a state of putridity, or go without; and our men
+are half-famished, from the careless inattention, or perhaps from
+the wilful negligence of the midīki; we cannot, like the camelion,
+live upon air, and we have not a single cowrie to spare to purchase
+provisions. Our powder is reduced to a very small quantity, and in
+all probability we have not half so much as we shall require on the
+Niger; so that for some time past we have relinquished our sporting
+excursions altogether, though these once afforded us an ample
+supply of game for the consumption of our whole party.</p>
+
+<p>Caffas are little cakes made of meal and water boiled together.
+There are several different kinds of corn at Boossà, all of which
+are also made into caffas. The method of separating the grain from
+the husk, is by cutting the ears from the stalk and placing them in
+a kind of wooden mortar, in which they are subjected to pressure
+from a heavy piece<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>
+of wood. The whole is then exposed to the wind on an elevated
+situation, by which the husk is blown away. The process of grinding
+the corn is performed on a large stone slab, with another heavy
+stone which is worked by the hand. The slab is placed for the sake
+of convenience in an inclined position, and is sufficiently large
+only for the person to perform the operation on his knees, and it
+is one which requires no little exertion. Their only method of
+cooking the meal when thus prepared, is by boiling it with water to
+the consistency of thick paste, in which state it is poured out in
+small portions on leaves, and laid by for use.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, Sept. 8th.</em>—Messengers from the king of
+Borgoo arrived this morning in the city from the metropolis of
+Niki, accompanied by a few of the principal merchants of a large
+<em>fatàkie</em>, which is now resting at Zalee, a small town about
+two hours’ walk to the westward of Boossà, and which we passed
+through on our journey. These men are on their way to the more
+easterly parts of the continent. They say here, that about twelve
+months since, a fatàkie consisting of an extraordinary number of
+traders, with horses and other beasts of burden, laden with
+merchandise, were travelling through Borgoo, on their route to
+Gonja, whither they were going to purchase the goora or kola nut.
+They were attacked, however, and plundered by the soldiers of Niki
+and Kiàma,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> who had
+laid in ambush for them; and rumour says, that the princes of those
+countries shared the booty between them. It happened that in the
+train of these merchants, and who in fact formed part of the
+fatàkie, were six men from Boossà; and when the news of their
+disaster and enslavement was communicated to their king, he is said
+to have been irritated in the highest degree, insomuch that he
+instantly despatched men with a peremptory message to the sultan of
+Borgoo, to liberate his captured subjects, and restore to them
+their horses and property, or prepare for the consequences of his
+resentment in case of a refusal. This message was treated with
+contemptuous indifference by the Niki sovereign, and he returned to
+the monarch of Boossà a haughty and disdainful answer. But as soon
+as the latter heard it, he assembled the priests of the ancient
+religion of the country of which he is the head, and by their joint
+assistance, it is said, he made a powerful enchantment, by which
+the legs and arms of his enemy became entirely useless. The king of
+Borgoo finding himself in this helpless state, and his conscience
+reproaching him with the cause of it, he immediately liberated the
+Boossà merchants, restored to them their horses and property, and
+forwarded the messengers we have already spoken of as having
+arrived to-day from Niki, to solicit forgiveness of the king of
+Boossà, for the crime<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_190">[190]</span> which he had perpetrated, and implore that
+the spell which bound and was consuming him might be dissolved
+forthwith. The men came loaded with presents of goora-nuts,
+&amp;c., and they have been joyfully received. Perhaps the Borgoo
+monarch hastened to make restitution for his offence, not on
+account of his enchantment, as these people imagine, but rather
+from public and political considerations; for, in consequence of
+the above quarrel, several of his towns had been taken possession
+of by the king of Boossà, which will now be abandoned, if the
+differences be amicably adjusted between the parties, that their
+inhabitants may be permitted to return to their former allegiance.
+The king of Boossà was restrained from making further conquests in
+Borgoo, only by the interference of the king of Wowow, who
+represented to him that the revenge he had already taken was more
+than proportionate to the offence that had been committed against
+him, and that he ought to rest satisfied therewith. The Niki
+messengers have been treated with the greatest respect, and the
+most generous hospitality.</p>
+
+<p>Like all earthly things, the pleasure and satisfaction excited
+by the novelty of our persons have passed away, and we are no
+longer either the objects of care and attention from the king and
+his midīki, or of curiosity among the natives. If we stay here much
+longer, this neglect on the part of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_191">[191]</span> the former will become alarming. No
+provisions have been sent us to-day, and our wants have been
+entirely lost sight of in the important arrival of these messengers
+from Borgoo. All has been joy in consequence; music and its usual
+accompaniments of discordant sounds have been going forward since;
+and bustle and confusion prevail throughout the city. Our people
+alone are sad, for they have nothing to eat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, Sept. 9th.</em>—The fatàkie mentioned yesterday as
+being at Zalee on the road to this city, arrived here this
+forenoon, preceded by a drummer on horseback, as usual, to animate
+the party by the sound of his instrument. They entered Boossà one
+by one, which is their usual method of travelling, and formed a
+very long train, the chief merchant of the whole bringing up the
+rear. This company consists of about four hundred individuals; and
+they have a great number of fine horses, a few mules, and two
+hundred asses, to carry their luggage. Their chief, and in fact
+their only merchandise, is the goora-nut, for which they have been
+to Gonja, a place only a few days’ journey from Accra.</p>
+
+<p>Gonja was till very recently a province of Ashantee, and
+inhabited by a people between whom and the Ashantees there is no
+manner of difference whatever, the manners, language, religion, and
+pursuits of both being precisely the same. But<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_192">[192]</span> these goora merchants report that it has
+lately been separated from that empire, and is now an independent
+state. They say, that preceding the commencement of hostilities
+between the Ashantees and the British at Cape Coast Castle,
+&amp;c., and their allies the Fantees, the former power requested
+the assistance of the people of Gonja in a premeditated attack
+against their enemies, which was objected to on the ground that the
+British had not offended them, and therefore they disliked coming
+to an open rupture with our countrymen. Nothing was said at the
+time by the King of Ashantee concerning the refusal of the men of
+Gonja to assist him in the war; and when his subjects returned to
+Coomassie in triumph, after having defeated and slain Sir C.
+Macarthy, he seemed to have forgotten it altogether. For some time
+after his total defeat by the British at Cape Coast Castle, he was
+still silent. But when he had recovered from the wounds he had
+received at this sanguinary battle, and the harmony of his subjects
+had been completely restored, he considered that then was the most
+proper time for punishing Gonja for its disobedience. For this
+purpose, say the merchants, he assembled a body of ten thousand
+men, most of whom were armed with muskets, and sent them, under the
+command of chosen captains, against the devoted province. But in
+the mean time the people of Gonja had<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_193">[193]</span> been by no means inactive, for having heard
+of the great preparations that were making at Coomassie, and being
+convinced that those preparations were designed against their own
+lives and liberties, they formed a plan of attacking their invaders
+and defeating their project, which succeeded to the utmost of their
+wishes, and even beyond their expectations. When they had learnt
+from a swift-footed messenger of the departure of the Ashantee army
+from Coomassie, and the road which they had taken, they stationed
+large bodies of stout, well-armed men in ambuscade at various
+places in the bush, close to the pathway, and awaited the coming of
+the foe. While the latter was drawing near to Gonja, not suspecting
+danger of any kind, and straggling about in imagined security, the
+men in ambush rushed out upon them, made a sudden and desperate
+attack on their whole force at the same moment, which threw the
+Ashantees into confusion, and the latter, dropping their arms, fled
+into the woods. The carnage is reported to have been dreadful. The
+conquerors gathered up the arms of their enemies, sung a song of
+victory, and returned in triumph to the city of Gonja.</p>
+
+<p>The king of Ashantee, according to the accounts of the
+merchants, on being informed of this disastrous and unlooked for
+event, was more exasperated than ever against the successful
+party,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> and vowed
+revenge against them, their city, and their country. He therefore,
+very shortly after the failure of the first expedition, sent
+another army, stronger than the former, with a command to destroy
+the rebellious city, and annihilate its inhabitants entirely. This
+news spread consternation among all classes of people in Gonja, and
+alarmed the strangers that had located in the country, insomuch
+that, on the advance of this second formidable army, they could not
+command sufficient resolution to go out against it, but deserted
+their dwellings and dispersed themselves through all parts of the
+adjacent countries, till such time as their enemies should think
+proper to return to Coomassie. It is almost unnecessary to add,
+that the city of Gonja was set on fire by the Ashantee soldiers, in
+pursuance of their commands, and every house in it burnt to ashes.
+The people, however, fancying the king’s wrath to be sufficiently
+appeased, were beginning to return again from the places of their
+concealment, on the departure of the fatakie, and were busily
+engaged in reconstructing their habitations.</p>
+
+<p>We do not place entire confidence in this tale, for almost every
+African is guilty of gross exaggeration in his statements, and too
+many of them are confirmed liars; so that, after all, the above
+story may only be <em>founded</em> on fact.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, Sept. 10th.</em>—Ever since the arrival
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> the Borgoo
+messengers, nothing else is heard in the city but music, which is
+continued from sunrise to sunset; and the long Arab trumpets are
+likewise sounded constantly in the middle of the night, the king
+taking this whimsical method of displaying his consequence and
+grandeur to the foreigners, which has amused us not a little. The
+dress of these Borgoo men differs but slightly from that which is
+worn by the people of Boossà and the neighbouring nations. We were
+favoured with a visit from them to-day, and their behaviour was
+remarkably decorous, though at first somewhat reserved. In their
+address they are extremely humble; and when they accost a superior,
+they prostrate themselves on the ground in the most abject and
+humiliating manner. Their chief is an elderly, quiet, respectable
+man, and professes the Mahomedan religion. On his entrance into our
+hut, this forenoon, he had so little confidence in himself, and was
+so timorous, that he could not speak; he shook like a leaf, and his
+lips also quivered from fear; indeed, the poor man was
+distressingly agitated,—perhaps he thought that we were going to
+devour him: but he regained his assurance when he found that such
+was not our intention, and in a very few minutes he became chatty,
+agreeable, and communicative.</p>
+
+<p>We have received two messes from the king lately, one consisting
+of a dish of stewed elephant’s<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_196">[196]</span> flesh, and the other of the flesh of an
+hippopotamus, which had been caught in the Niger a short time
+before. The latter was rank and fat, and bore a greater resemblance
+to pork than to any other meat with which we are acquainted, yet it
+is considered delicate and delicious eating.</p>
+
+<p>The method adopted by the natives of destroying the elephant is
+very simple. A large harpoon is thrust into the ground, in the
+middle of a path which they are known to frequent in their nightly
+excursions to the river for water, leaving the ragged points of the
+instrument above the ground in an inclined position, and concealing
+them with straw or stubble. The heavy beast, unsuspicious of
+danger, pursues the usual track with his companions; he comes in
+contact with the harpoon, which enters his breast or belly, and
+having no sagacity to draw back, the elephant, smarting with pain,
+forces himself forwards with all his might, which causes the weapon
+to penetrate still more deeply into his body, and he thus becomes a
+prey to his destroyers. Considering the vast number of elephants
+which inhabit the woods on the banks of the Niger hereabouts, it is
+singular that so few of them are annually destroyed by the natives.
+Perhaps one reason is the little encouragement they receive for
+their trouble; for the flesh of these beasts, except when very
+young, is almost unsaleable, by reason of its toughness and
+rancid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> nature;
+their teeth also are valueless here, no use whatever being made of
+them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, September 11th.</em>—Our ears were saluted just
+after day-break this morning, by a dreadful noise between a man and
+his wife, who were squabbling about some money matters, and, as is
+usual in such cases, they were surrounded by all their female
+neighbours, whose clatter exceeded, if possible, their own. They
+are slaves of the midīki, and reside in our yard, within a door or
+two of our hut. The quarrel terminated in blows and tears, which
+was instantly made known to the queen, who commanded the
+delinquents to appear before her, and having entered into all the
+circumstances of the case, the differences between them were
+adjusted on the spot. The woman accused her husband of having
+stolen from the place where she had concealed them, no less than
+four hundred cowries, which was the original cause of the dispute.
+The accusation could not be denied; and the man endeavoured to
+soothe his wife by gentle words, and bring her into good humour by
+flattery, and expressed contrition for his offence; but this
+aroused the anger of the furious woman, who abused her husband with
+all the reproachful epithets she could make use of; and though she
+was blubbering all the while, she would have gone a still greater
+length, if he had not stopped her mouth by a severe beating. So
+little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> tenderness
+or sociability exists between a married couple, particularly if
+they should happen to be slaves, that they have nothing in common;
+and though they eat and sleep in the same hut, they seek a separate
+livelihood.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps it would be speaking within compass to say, that
+four-fifths of the whole population, not only in this country, but
+likewise every other hereabouts, are slaves. Many of them are
+permitted to roam at large, provided they attend upon their masters
+when called upon; these procure their own subsistence, and devote
+part of their time to the service of their owners: others reside in
+the houses of their masters as domestic servants, and are likewise
+expected to contribute towards their own support. The Queen of
+Boossà has a great number of Falátah slaves; the men are constantly
+employed in taking care of her herds, and milking the cows, and the
+females dispose of the milk; half of the money obtained by this
+means, the Falátahs keep to maintain themselves. Thus are the
+slaves treated in their native country—they enjoy much freedom; are
+never overworked; have plenty of leisure time, and are rarely
+punished, and even then but slightly. If a slave run away from his
+master, and is afterwards taken and brought back, he is simply
+confined in irons a day or two for his offence; but he is sold to
+another the first opportunity. The<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_199">[199]</span> natives have a strong antipathy to
+flogging, or severe chastisement of any kind, and very seldom have
+recourse to the means of punishment which they have in their power
+to inflict.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, September 12th.</em>—Our man, who has been expected
+with some anxiety and apprehension for his safety, arrived this
+afternoon from the city of Coulfò, but with very little money
+indeed, having disposed of the ass for less than half its value,
+and sold, comparatively speaking, a very small quantity of needles.
+The remainder, which were valued at thirty thousand cowries, were
+stolen from him, he asserts, a few days before his departure; but
+we strongly suspect that this is a falsehood, and that the fellow
+has converted them to his own use. Since the messenger to Rabba
+left Boossà on his errand, we have heard no intelligence whatever
+concerning him; and as every thing is now ripe for our enterprise,
+we begin to feel impatient and uneasy at our long, and to us,
+unnecessary detention in this place, and the irksomeness of our
+present dependent situation; for we are often troubled with painful
+apprehensions and surmises, that something unpleasant may yet
+intervene to frustrate our intentions, embarrass us with
+difficulties, and extinguish all our anticipations of success.</p>
+
+<p>The king had not visited us for a fortnight, and therefore we
+sent a message to him this forenoon,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_200">[200]</span> intimating the great anxiety we felt to
+proceed on our journey, and our earnest hope that he would permit
+us to do so immediately, even before the return of his messenger
+from Nouffie. We complained that we were destitute of almost
+everything; that we were wearied out with repeated disappointments,
+and with having nothing to do for so long a time; that our health
+was fast declining, and our life wasting away; and concluded by
+assuring him, that if we did not quickly return to our country, the
+worst consequences might ensue, and then what would become of his
+good name? To this the king made answer, that it was our future
+welfare alone, which had induced him to take those measures and
+precautions which he perceived with sorrow we disapproved of and
+disliked so much; that we did not display our wisdom by our
+impatience; and that to attempt proceeding down the river before
+the return of his ambassador, would, in his opinion, be not only
+presumptuous and improper, but would likewise be highly injurious
+to our interests.</p>
+
+<p>The king promised to come and see us in the evening, and talk
+over the matter with us himself. According to his promise,
+therefore, he paid us a visit at the time appointed, and
+recapitulated that which he had before told Paskoe, but added that
+it would be absolutely necessary for us to make a<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> good present to the King of
+Nouffie, and another to the Falátah chief of Rabba. He then gave
+broad hints for one of our pistols, which he admired in the usual
+way; but as we were not <em>obliged</em> to comprehend his enigmas,
+and as we could ill spare the pistol, we appeared very stupid, and
+would not understand his meaning. The king shortly afterwards took
+his leave, yet he was by no means angry at the failure of his
+ingenious device. In respect to his recommendation that we should
+endeavour all in our power to make friends of the King of Nouffie
+and the Chief of Rabba, we have nothing left worthy of their
+acceptance, and shall therefore attempt to shun one of these rulers
+at least.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, September 13th.</em>—It is reported here, that
+<em>El Kanemee</em>, the celebrated Arab so often spoken of in
+Major Denham’s Journal, has fallen into disgrace with the Sultan of
+Bornou, who has had him imprisoned, and would have punished him
+with death, but for the interposition and remonstrances of the
+Mahomedan priests in the capital, who diverted him from his purpose
+by a solemn declaration, that if he should carry his resentment to
+such an extremity, there would be no rain in the country for seven
+years, for so their book, the Alcoran, had predicted; but that if
+the Sultan would be merciful, and resort to a milder punishment by
+liberating the Arab after a short<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_202">[202]</span> confinement, these prophetic priests
+promised him that ‘his horse should certainly drink of the waters
+of the Quorra,’ that is, he should vanquish all his enemies that
+were at that time between Bornou and the Niger, at the end of three
+years. The superstitious prince hearkened to these sayings of the
+crafty priests, and set his minister at liberty after a short
+imprisonment. The Arab was accused by the sultan of treasonable
+practices, and of having in particular made various attempts to
+obtain the affection of the people, by caresses and flattery, and
+of enticing them to revolt, so that he might at a future day usurp
+the rights of his sovereign, and cause himself to be proclaimed
+sultan in his stead.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, September 14th.</em>—The same superstitious notions
+and prejudices respecting witches, wizards, and ill-wishers, and
+the same belief in necromancy, prevail here at this day, as were
+current in enlightened Europe as recently as the seventeenth and
+eighteenth centuries. The king sent a messenger this morning to
+request the favour of a couple of charges of powder, stating that
+two women had absconded to <em>Foco</em>, which is a town on the
+banks of the Niger, a little way below Inguâzhilligee, and that if
+it should be found necessary, the powder might be used to frighten
+the runagates into a compliance with the wishes of their pursuers.
+In the evening the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>
+women, who had surrendered themselves at Foco, landed here from a
+canoe, and were immediately put in confinement. We are told that
+these two poor old creatures resided on an island a little way up
+the Niger, and were lately accused by their town’s people of the
+crime of witchcraft, and with two old wizards, their neighbours and
+friends, of ‘<em>having eaten the spirits of five
+individuals</em>,’ who all are said to have died by this means. The
+men, aware of the persecution and the fate that awaited them should
+they be taken, succeeded in making their escape as soon as this
+crime was laid to their charge; but the females were not quite so
+fortunate, for the place of their concealment was made known to the
+king, and he caused them to be apprehended, as above mentioned. One
+of the reputed witches is a very aged woman, but her companion is
+not quite so old. The punishment that awaits them is perpetual
+slavery, whereas if the men had been caught, they would have been
+bound hand and foot, and flung into the Niger, and there left to
+perish. All witches, wizards, and ill-wishers, are treated in the
+same manner; the punishment of witches not being so rigorous as
+that of their male associates in the black art, in consideration of
+their sex. The belief in their power is very general, and instances
+of people fancying themselves bewitched, and suffering from their
+malignant incantations, are by no means uncommon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span><em>Saturday,
+September 18th.</em>—During the last fourteen days my brother had
+been extremely indisposed from a slight attack of bilious fever,
+which has brought him to a very low and languid state, insomuch
+that I urged the king on Wednesday to send us away, to try if
+change of air and scene would not produce a beneficial effect on
+his health. The monarch, after many scruples and much hesitation,
+at length appointed the second day of the moon, that being, he
+pronounced, the happiest and luckiest of all days. He could not,
+however, forbear expressing his deep regret at our determination of
+leaving Boossà before the return of his messenger from Nouffie; it
+might be detrimental to our personal interests, and his own
+reputation also would suffer if any thing should befall us on the
+river, but he had already given his word for our departure, and
+from this promise he could not swerve. To-day is the second of the
+moon, but the Africans calculate upon it as the first only, because
+they never see that orb plainly till the second time of her
+appearance. This afternoon we wished to pay our respects to the
+king, previous to our departure, which we understood was to take
+place to-morrow morning, but to our surprise he asserted that the
+moon would not be discernible that evening, and therefore that
+Monday next will be the day which was specified. The moon, however,
+<em>did</em> shine fairly<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_205">[205]</span> in sight of all the people; nevertheless we
+have made no further remark to the prince on the subject, thinking
+it might confuse and irritate him.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, September 19th.</em>—This morning we were so unlucky
+as to upset a large bowl of milk, one of which we are daily
+supplied with from the king’s house. We sent to have it
+replenished, because in our present circumstances we could ill
+afford to lose so great a luxury. Instead of gratifying us in this
+particular, however, he expressed himself quite overjoyed at the
+circumstance, and asserted that it was the most happy omen in the
+world, and that we ought to consider ourselves as peculiarly
+favoured and fortunate. So we were obliged to content ourselves
+without breakfast, of which the accident had deprived us, because
+of the superstitious nonsense of the monarch.</p>
+
+<p>Everything is now got ready for starting. As it is not our
+present intention to call at many inhabited places on the banks of
+the Niger, we have provided ourselves with a great quantity of
+provisions, which consists chiefly of three large bags of corn and
+one of beans. We have likewise a couple of fowls and two sheep, so
+that we are of opinion we shall have food enough for all hands for
+three weeks or a month at least. To add to our stock, the king and
+midīki between them have given us a considerable quantity of rice,
+honey, corn, and onions; and two large pots of
+vegetable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> butter,
+which weigh not less than a hundred pounds.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon, to our unspeakable joy, the long-expected and
+wished-for messenger arrived in this city from Rabba, accompanied
+by two messengers from the king of Nouffie, one of whom, a
+modest-looking, respectable young man, is his own son. These men
+are to be our guides as far as Rabba, after we have passed which
+city, all the Nouffie territory to the southward is under the
+<em>surveillance</em> of Ederesa and his partisans. ‘The Magīa,’
+says the Boossà ambassador, ‘was delighted with the intelligence
+that white men were to honour his dominions with their presence; he
+showed me the presents made him by Captain Clapperton three years
+ago, and said a great deal in his favour and commendation. And as a
+proof,’ continued the man, ‘of his friendly disposition towards
+you, and his interest in your welfare, he has not only sent his son
+as your companion and guide, but he has likewise despatched a
+messenger to every town on the banks of the Niger, either
+considerable or unimportant, even as far as Funda, which is beyond
+the limits of the empire; and he is commissioned to acquaint their
+inhabitants of the fact of your intention of proceeding down the
+river, and to desire them to assist you with their encouragement
+and support, so far as it lies in their power to do.’</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span>After some
+little consideration, we knew not whether we ought to feel pleasure
+or regret, thankfulness or indifference, at the arrival of these
+men, and the occasion which brought them hither: at present we can
+only foresee that they will be a heavy burden on our funds; and as
+it happens that we have the utmost difficulty in the world in
+supporting ourselves, it will cause us additional trouble, expense,
+and uneasiness, in providing them with the bare necessaries of
+life. The king, however, had but one feeling on the subject, and
+that was unbounded delight; he capered around his hut with
+transport, when he saw our guides and heard their message; and
+after a burst of joy, he began to cry like a child, his heart was
+so full. ‘Now,’ said he, when he had become more composed,
+‘whatever may happen to the white men, my neighbours cannot but
+acknowledge that I have taken every care of them, treated them as
+became a king, and done my best to promote their happiness and
+interests. They will not be able,’ continued the monarch with
+exultation, ‘they dare not have the effrontery to cast at me a
+reproach like that which they bestowed upon my ancestor. I can now
+safely entrust the white men to the care, protection, and
+hospitality of a neighbouring monarch, who, I am convinced, if not
+for my sake, at least for his own, will receive and entertain them
+with every mark of distinction and kindness. I know<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> and feel that towards them I
+have done my duty, and let my neighbours see to it that they do
+theirs.’ And so he has, for though we have been his guests for so
+long a time, and been occasionally not a little troublesome to him
+with our importunity, yet we have observed nothing either in his
+manners or character to condemn, but much, very much, to approve of
+and admire. His disposition is open and ingenuous, and his
+sentiments candid and sincere; no child is more simple, innocent,
+and unsuspicious than he. The little we have had to complain of is
+owing to our detention here longer than we wished; but then,
+perhaps, we have been a little too hasty and petulant, and it must
+likewise be remembered that in regard to us the king’s reputation
+and honour were at stake, and after all he may be perfectly right
+in his opinions and conjectures.</p>
+
+<p>This evening an old Mahomedan priest, whose countenance seemed
+to radiate with meekness, simplicity, loving-kindness, and
+good-nature, entered our dwelling, and entreated us with earnest
+importunity to give him before our departure a quantity of deadly
+poison, a very small portion of which he wished might destroy life
+in a few moments after it should be taken. The hoary old villain
+did not hesitate to confess, in confidence, that his motive for
+making this strange request arose from the desire he felt to
+administer the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span>
+poisonous drug to a neighbour, whom he longed to put out of the
+world, because he had done him some slight imaginary wrong. Of
+course we execrated the horrid intention of the man, who, rather
+than listen longer to our reproaches, turned his face and walked
+away. In the night Boossà was visited by a thunder-storm. During
+the time we have been at Boossà, the thermometer has ranged between
+76° and 93°, but it has most generally been between 80° and 90°,
+and the weather very oppressive.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span><a id=
+"c13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">The King and Midīki take leave of the Travellers —
+They embark on the River and depart from Boossà — Island Melálie —
+Inguâzhilligee — Island Patáshie — The Chief of Teàh — Messengers
+from the King of Wowow — Perplexity of the Travellers respecting
+their Route — Terror of the Natives at their Appearance — An
+Invalid — Diseases of the Natives — Their Medicines — Richard
+Lander goes to Wowow — Superstition of the Natives — Charms —
+Return of Richard Lander to Patáshie — His Interview with the King
+of Wowow — House of Correction at Patáshie — Native Pagan Priest —
+Departure from Patáshie — Ráah — Arrive at Lever — An officious
+Friend in the Priest Ducoo — Disappointment of the Travellers.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Monday, September 20th.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">As</span> may be supposed, our hearts beat high this morning
+with the anticipation of at length leaving Boossà, and of
+proceeding on our journey; and we were all on the <em>qui vive</em>
+at a very early hour, ransacking our lumber, packing it up, and
+turning it all out into the yard, from whence it was conveyed to
+the water-side. About breakfast-time the king and queen arrived at
+our hut, to pay us a farewell visit, and bestow upon us their last
+blessing. They brought with them two pots of honey and a large
+quantity of goora nuts, strongly recommending us to present the
+latter to the Rabba chieftain, for<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_211">[211]</span> that nothing we might have in our
+possession could so effectually conciliate his favour, procure us
+his friendship, and command his confidence. When mutual compliments
+were passed, we expressed our acknowledgments to both of them with
+sincerity and earnestness, for the benevolence, hospitality, and
+attention, with which they had uniformly treated us; for their
+kindness to us; for their zeal in everything that regarded our
+welfare; and for the protection they had afforded us during a
+period little short of two months, in which we had enjoyed the
+utmost security, and as much of happiness and gaiety, as it had
+been in their power to bestow. And we assured them, that should we
+be so fortunate as to return to England, it would be our first care
+to acquaint our countrymen of all their kindness to us, which we
+would remember as long as we lived. We then shook hands heartily,
+and concluded by wishing them a continuation of the simple
+blessings and the felicity they enjoyed; that they might ever be
+loved by their subjects, and feared and honoured by the
+neighbouring nations; that they might live to a good old age and
+die in peace with all mankind. They were both touched with sorrow
+at our words, for they were the last which they would hear us
+utter; tears were glistening in the eyes of each as they were
+making an affecting and suitable answer; and the good couple walked
+out of our hut with heavy and mournful<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_212">[212]</span> countenances, and immediately repaired to
+their own abode in order to make a powerful spell for our
+preservation and success.</p>
+
+<p>When we ourselves quitted the hut, which was shortly after their
+departure, we found our yard filled with neighbours, friends, and
+acquaintances, who all fell down on their knees to bid us good bye.
+They blessed us earnestly with uplifted hands, and those among them
+that were of the Mahomedan religion, fervently implored for us the
+favour and protection of Allah and their Prophet. The eyes of many
+of them were streaming with tears, and all were more or less
+affected. As we passed by these poor creatures, we spoke to them
+all, and thanked them again and again for their good wishes. Our
+hearts must have been of marble if we could have beheld such a
+scene without some slight emotion. On our way towards the river,
+also, the path was lined with people, some of whom saluted us on
+one knee, and some on both, and we received their benedictions as
+we walked along.</p>
+
+<p>It was exactly half past nine in the morning when we arrived at
+the river side, where we found two canoes lying to receive our
+goods, which we quickly loaded. But with that indolence and
+indifference which distinguish all ranks of people here, the
+canoemen did not make their appearance till nearly two hours after,
+though we had sent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>
+messengers repeatedly to them to hasten their coming; the head of
+them is the ‘Sullikin Zhilligee’ (king of the canoe) that conveyed
+us from Kagogie to Yàoorie. When our people were all embarked on
+the Niger, and ourselves, we humbly thanked the Almighty for past
+deliverances, and fervently prayed that He would always be with us,
+and crown our enterprise with success.</p>
+
+<p>We had been but a short time on the water, when we discovered
+that the smaller canoe, in which were six individuals and a number
+of sheep belonging to the Nouffie messengers, was overladen and in
+danger of sinking, and that both were very leaky, insomuch that it
+required three men to be constantly employed in baling out the
+water to keep them afloat. To lighten the smaller canoe, we took a
+man from her into our own, and afterwards we proceeded more safely
+and with less apprehension; yet, at one o’clock in the afternoon,
+we were obliged to put into a small island called <em>Melàlie</em>,
+to get it repaired, for we were afraid to proceed any further with
+the small canoe on account of the rocks and the velocity of the
+current.</p>
+
+<p>The chief of the village, a decent-looking, elderly man, came
+down to salute us at the water-side; and would not suffer us to
+depart till he had prevailed on us to drink beer with him and fire
+off our guns, when he compelled us to accept of a fine<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> kid, which we were too polite
+to reject. He was dressed in a tobe made of a mixture of country
+cloth and Manchester cotton, &amp;c. After we had remained on the
+island about half an hour, which was occupied in making the
+necessary repairs to the canoe, we launched her out into the water,
+expressed our thanks to the chief, and took our leave. Melàlie is
+tolerably cultivated, and is inhabited solely by Borgoo men. It
+lies on the western side of the river. Between this island and
+Boossà, the river is full of small islands, with channels of deep
+water between them. The banks on both sides are very fertile, as
+well as the islands themselves, which are mostly inhabited and well
+cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>The current, according to our estimation, was here running at
+the rate of five or six miles in an hour; and the bed of the river
+was full of rocks, some of which were only a few inches below the
+surface of the water, which occasioned it to make a loud rushing
+noise, and forewarn the canoeman of his danger. Owing to the
+skilfulness of ours, we succeeded in crossing one or two sunken
+reefs, which, in the dry season more especially, must be extremely
+dangerous; even as it was, we experienced considerable difficulty
+in getting over them. At two o’clock we passed the boundaries of
+Boossà, on the eastern side of the river, and entered the dominions
+of the King<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> of
+Nouffie. A town belonging to the former power, on the eastern bank
+of the river, marks the spot; but we were unable to ascertain its
+name. We then travelled along by the side of an island, very woody,
+called ‘Any Man’s Land,’ which, though fertile, is uninhabited, in
+consequence of the vast number of wild horses which it is said to
+contain.</p>
+
+<p>At five <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, we came to
+Inguâzhilligee, having passed, just before, a very large and
+pleasant, but straggling town, called <em>Congie</em><a id=
+"FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>.
+Inguâzhilligee<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class=
+"fnanchor">[4]</a> is the first town on the Wowow ground, all
+above, on the western bank of the Niger, belonging to Boossà.
+Journeying along for a quarter of an hour without stopping here, we
+put into a market town, on a large and beautiful island called
+<em>Patàshie</em>, just in time to save ourselves from a heavy
+shower; and here we shall be obliged to remain till the return of a
+messenger who we landed in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_216">[216]</span> the middle of the day, and sent to Wowow
+for the purpose of informing the king of our departure from Boossà,
+and of our intention to abide at Patàshie till he chooses to send
+us the large canoe that we have purchased of him. We are now out of
+the protection of the friendly monarch of Boossà, who will have
+nothing further to do with us.</p>
+
+<p>About twenty or thirty paces from the river’s side, we
+discovered a great quantity of huge bones and skulls of
+hippopotami, piled up on a high platform which has been erected for
+the purpose. These, we understand, are preserved as trophies by the
+natives, on much the same principle as foxes’ tails are kept by
+many country gentlemen in England. From the decayed appearance of
+some of the skulls, we are inclined to believe that most of the
+animals must have been destroyed very many years ago. We were
+speedily introduced to the chief, who gave us a hearty welcome, and
+who we found to be a little round, fat, jolly-looking old man; and
+as soon as was convenient, we were conducted to an excellent hut,
+received a quantity of provisions from the chief, and then lay down
+to rest. Thermometer 76°, 86°, 88° during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, September 21st.</em>—Patàshie, as we have said, is
+a large, rich island, unspeakably beautiful, and is embellished
+with various groves of palm, and other noble trees. Its distance
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> Boossà, as
+nearly as we can guess, may be between forty and fifty miles. It
+abounds with horses, asses, bullocks, sheep, goats, poultry,
+&amp;c., and produces abundance of corn and yams; in fact the soil
+is so exceedingly fertile, and its inhabitants so industrious, that
+not an acre of ground in the whole island, it is said, is left
+without cultivation. Patàshie is tributary to Wowow, though it is
+inhabited solely by Nouffie people, who are considered honest,
+active, laborious, and wealthy. We find the river very much
+swollen, the banks are of a shelving nature, and the water is now
+nearly on a level with the highest part of them. We observed
+several small villages on the Nouffie side.</p>
+
+<p>Our hut has this day exhibited a scene of revelry and mirth more
+becoming a native inn than a private dwelling.</p>
+
+<p>The chief of the island, accompanied by our four messengers from
+Boossà and Nouffie, our canoemen, and several of his own people,
+all dressed ‘in their holyday best,’ paid us a visit in the earlier
+part of the morning, and out of compliment, I fancy, remained with
+us till evening, with the exception of a short absence in the
+middle of the day, during all which time they were employed in
+swallowing palm-wine, which is procured in the island in great
+plenty, and in telling nonsensical stories. We were glad when
+they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span> said it was
+time to depart, and having shaken hands with the ardour of
+drunkards, they took their leave, staggered out of the hut, and all
+went laughing away.</p>
+
+<p>It is rather singular that though the chief is a sooty black, he
+has bright blue eyes. We received from him about noon a fine goat,
+and messes of pounded yam and meat, stewed in palm-oil. These were
+brought in well-carved wooden dishes, of huge dimensions; and we
+subsequently received an ewe sheep, and similar dressed dishes,
+from the chief of an island belonging to Nouffie, which lies
+abreast of this, and whom we have not yet seen.</p>
+
+<p>The magīa’s son (whose name is Mohammed), and whom we find to be
+a very intelligent youth, informs us, that if the prince of Wowow
+be unable to furnish us with a canoe sufficiently large for our
+purpose, it would be well to demand the restoration of our horses,
+which we could dispose of advantageously in Nouffie, and purchase a
+quantity of beads, and other trifles, with the money, as presents
+to the various chiefs along the banks of the river. Instead of
+purchasing a canoe ourselves, which would be very expensive, the
+young man promised, in the name of his father, to obtain one of
+commodious size, which should answer all purposes, and take us to
+<em>Tagra</em>, with men whom it should be his business likewise to
+get.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> Tagra, we
+believe, is very near Benin. In our own opinion, this would
+certainly be the safest and best means of journeying down the
+Niger, as the protection of all the chiefs would thereby be insured
+to us. But we are apprehensive that we have gone too far towards
+adopting a different scheme, and we see very little likelihood,
+indeed, that we shall be able to embrace the plan suggested, and so
+strongly recommended by Mohammed, unless the Wowow ruler be not in
+a condition to perform his engagement, and is willing to return our
+horses, which does not appear to us at all probable, under existing
+circumstances. The messenger we sent to him is not yet returned.
+Thermometer 74°, 83°, 85°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, Sept. 22d.</em>—This morning we were visited by
+the revellers of yesterday, who brought with them several gallons
+of palm-wine, which they swallowed in a very short time, and to
+every appearance we were threatened with a renewal of yesterday’s
+debauch; but luckily for us they went out for a few minutes to
+procure more liquor, when we embraced the opportunity of closing
+the door of our hut against them, and thus prevented their
+re-entering it.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning we were favoured with a visit from the chief of
+Teàh, the Nouffie island alluded to yesterday. He is a
+venerable-looking old man, of advantageous stature, and exceedingly
+corpulent.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span> He
+expressed the utmost delight and satisfaction on seeing white men
+before he died, and declared it was a pleasure, which neither his
+father, mother, nor uncle, had ever enjoyed, and a gratification
+which his ancestors had never hoped for; he should therefore
+cherish the remembrance of it as long as he lived. We have with us
+a quarto edition of natural history, with plates; these, though
+incomprehensible to the natives of Yarriba, appear to be extremely
+well understood here, and have excited in the minds of those that
+have seen them the highest degree of admiration, rapture, and
+wonderment. The old chief of Teàh gazed upon them in silent
+astonishment; but when we took out a watch and mariner’s compass
+for his inspection, and their uses were explained to him, he became
+at first very uneasy, and afterwards perfectly wild with amazement.
+No one in the world could express more naturally or forcibly the
+emotion of wonder, or the passion of fear, which the countenance of
+this old man displayed as he looked at the watch; nor could he be
+persuaded for a long time but that it was in possession of life and
+being, and had the power of moving. After a long and friendly chat
+the good old chief saluted us, and took his leave.</p>
+
+<p>Teàh lies very near the island of Patàshie, from which it is
+divided only by a very narrow channel. Of the two, Teàh is said to
+be the larger and more<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_221">[221]</span> populous; but with regard to agreeableness
+of appearance, amazing fecundity of soil, and natural productions,
+they are pretty much alike, both being beyond description fertile
+and beautiful. In both provisions are reasonable, and in the
+greatest plenty; they are both inhabited by individuals of the same
+nation, who enrich the islands by their industry and labour; and
+both have been equally exempt from those intestine broils and
+commotions which have for so long a time agitated and impoverished
+the natives of the main land.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening a messenger arrived from the king of Wowow, with
+news not at all to our liking. He informs us that we were anxiously
+expected in that city from Boossà at the time of the holydays; and
+because we did not come agreeably to our promise, the prince could
+not conceal his chagrin, and was exceedingly angry not only with
+the king of Boossà, who was the cause of our absence, but with us
+likewise. The messenger continued, that his sovereign had most
+certainly procured for us a canoe, which is laid up at
+<em>Lever</em>; but that if we wished, or rather if we were
+determined to have our horses back again, the king would send them
+to us in compliance with our wishes, ‘for who,’ said he, with much
+emphasis, ‘would presume to assert that the monarch of Wowow would
+keep the property of others?’ ‘It would not be paying him that
+respect,’ he continued,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_222">[222]</span> ‘which his rank and situation demanded,
+were the white men to leave his dominions and the country
+altogether, without first coming to pay him their respects, and he
+would therefore entreat us to pay a visit to Wowow immediately for
+that purpose, or if both of us could not leave Patàshie, he
+requested that I would come and bid him adieu, because I had not
+done so when my illness compelled me to leave his city.</p>
+
+<p>The man finished his message by complaining bitterly of the
+conduct of the king of Boossà, who, he said, had acted towards his
+sovereign deceitfully, unhandsomely, and inconsistently, throughout
+all the transactions in which we have been principally concerned.
+We ourselves are confident that the king of Wowow will strongly
+object to the arrangement of his relative, regarding our being sent
+either to the magīa or to the chief of the Falátahs at Rabba, if
+not endeavour to frustrate it, because he is at enmity with the
+one, and both fears and hates the other. But how he can positively
+prevent this scheme from being carried into effect, seeing we shall
+have the magīa’s son and a Nouffie messenger in the same canoe with
+us, we cannot imagine.</p>
+
+<p>The monarchs of Boossà and Wowow seem to have very opposite
+opinions regarding our journey. The former insists on the necessity
+of our proceeding down the Niger on the eastern<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> or Nouffie side, which would
+certainly be the most interesting and desirable; whereas the other
+makes use of strong language to persuade us that the Yarriba side
+of the river would be the most convenient, the most agreeable, and
+the safest; and that if we would make up our minds not to attend to
+the king of Boossà’s advice, he would send a messenger with us, who
+should protect us even to the sea. This difference of opinion, we
+are apprehensive, will involve us in a thousand perplexities; yet
+we must be guided in our choice entirely by circumstances.
+Interest, present or remote, and prejudice and passion, seem to
+sway the minds of both these rulers, though each of them avows his
+disinterestedness. The king of Boossà, a good man, but of an
+humble, yielding, peaceful, enduring temper, and of a timorous,
+wavering disposition, requests us earnestly to visit the Magīa and
+the Falátahs, because he knows it would gratify their vanity, and
+make them his friends for ever;—the king of Wowow, of a firm,
+sagacious, and unbending mind, scorns the friendship and defies the
+power of either, and is inveterate in his dislike both of the very
+name of Falátah, and that of the brother of Ederesa; he is aware
+that our visiting their territories in person, would not only be
+paying them a very high compliment, but would likewise, in some
+measure, be advantageous to them, and is guided by this<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> decided partiality in doing
+all in his power to bring us over to his own views and sentiments.
+From the treatment I experienced at Soccatoo, I must say that I
+entertain a very great aversion to the whole Falátah nation; and am
+of opinion, that if we put into Rabba, according to the suggestions
+of the king of Boossà, we shall be detained there till Bello be
+informed of the fact, and his intentions with regard to us be
+communicated to the chief. I am therefore inclined to adopt the
+advice of the king of Wowow, rather than to comply with the wishes
+of his august relative, though there is no just or reasonable
+ground to fear either ill-treatment or detention at the hands of
+the Falátahs, more especially since we have received ample and
+satisfactory assurances from the powerful chief of Rabba himself of
+their favourable disposition towards us, that we shall be received
+as friends, and meet with every encouragement and support as far as
+their power and interests extend, and as far as their name is known
+and respected. Yet we cannot follow the bent of our own
+inclinations; we are involved in difficulty; and though everything
+appears propitious to our enterprise, yet we are not masters of our
+own actions; we must follow where others lead, and we are still in
+doubt as to what we shall do. At all events, we shall be guided in
+our choice entirely by circumstances; ‘we shall trust our fortune
+to the powers above,’<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_225">[225]</span> and can only pray that an indulgent
+Providence will succour, befriend, and protect us in all
+circumstances, as it has heretofore done.</p>
+
+<p>The Wowow ambassador will rest with us to-morrow; and, on the
+day following, I intend accompanying him to that city, not only to
+pay my respects to the sovereign, but likewise to have a final and
+decisive answer from him regarding the canoe, without further
+subterfuge or procrastination. Thermometer 76°, 87°, 89°, during
+the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, Sept. 23d.</em>—At Boossà, latterly, we had the
+greatest difficulty and trouble in procuring the bare necessaries
+of life; but here, in this flourishing Patàshie, provisions have
+been sent us from the chiefs of the two islands, in such abundance,
+that half of them, we regret to say, have been unconsumed by our
+people and thrown to the dogs: we have received from each of them,
+daily, as much as a strong man could carry, consisting of the usual
+gigantic bowl of pounded yam and meat, stewed in palm oil. People
+here, of all ages, display the most anxious, though perhaps natural
+curiosity to see us; and large crowds of them assemble every day,
+and wait from morning till night, patiently, till they have gained
+the object of their visit. However, they are all as timid as hares,
+and if we happen to look fixedly in their faces for a moment, most
+of them, more especially<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_226">[226]</span> the females, and the junior classes of both
+sexes, start back with terror, as if they had seen a serpent in the
+grass; and when we attempt to walk near any of them, they run away
+screaming, as though they had been pursued by a lion, or were in
+danger of falling into the jaws of a crocodile, so horrified are
+these poor people at the bare sight of a white man, and so
+frightful do their imaginations picture him to be.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, long after the sun had gone down, the chief
+brought a youth for us to pass our opinion on, whom he introduced
+as a near relative. He has been ill for the last fourteen months,
+and the chief prayed that we would endeavour to cure him of his
+complaint. He is a tall, lank young man, of humble, modest, and
+reserved manners. From a state of robust health and vigour, which
+it appears he formerly enjoyed, he is wasted away almost to a
+skeleton; and his temper, once pleasant, cheerful, and sprightly,
+has lost its elasticity, and he is become thoughtful, dejected, and
+melancholy: however, though the invalid rarely enjoys sound and
+refreshing sleep, yet he has a wonderful appetite, and he eats with
+voracity. We sincerely regret our ignorance of the nature of his
+disorder, and therefore our utter inability to do him the slightest
+benefit; nevertheless, the old chief solicited us so warmly for
+medicine, and with such pressing importunity, that<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> rather than give offence, and
+because the young man complained of a sore throat and neck, which
+seemed to annoy him at present more than anything else, we chafed
+those parts with a little spirits of hartshorn, and wrapped round
+them several folds of warm flannel. It was all that we could do to
+relieve his pain, and it seemed to give complete satisfaction. Poor
+people! how happy did this little service make them!</p>
+
+<p>The natives are subject to very few diseases, and those,
+generally speaking, are not of a dangerous or malignant tendency.
+As far as we are able to judge from the symptoms he describes, the
+complaint under which the old chief’s <em>protégé</em> labours,
+approaches nearer to the nature of consumption than to any other
+disease with which we are acquainted. Small pox is very prevalent,
+but we do not hear that it often terminates fatally. The
+Guinea-worm is frequently met with; ulcers, of that frightful
+description which prevails on the coast, are unknown; but agues and
+slight fevers are by no means uncommon; and of all complaints, sore
+eyes and affections of the bowels are by far the most general.
+Properly speaking, the natives have no active medicine of their
+own, though they boast an acquaintance with a variety of medicinal
+plants, which, as far as our observation extends, are wholly
+inefficacious; they likewise ascribe the most wonderful healing
+properties<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> to a
+quantity of roots and fibres of trees, which are sought after and
+vended by a number of idle, lazy fellows who pretend to be
+Mahomedan priests: however, from our experience, these do neither
+good nor harm, being perfectly innocent in their effects, and
+altogether useless. The root of a large and scarce tree holds so
+high a reputation for the astonishing properties which it is
+supposed to possess, that it has obtained, by way of distinction,
+the name of the ‘mother of roots.’ Besides its other virtues, the
+credulous people believe that, whilst they have the smallest
+portion of this celebrated ‘mother of roots’ about their persons,
+they can assuage every sorrow, alleviate every misfortune; banish
+care from their minds and want from their dwellings, avert pain,
+and secure happiness. From the Arabs, however, the natives obtain
+great quantities of <em>trona</em>, which is a fossil alkali, and
+is found on the borders of the desert. It is a strong and active
+aperient, and possesses other medicinal properties which are
+understood by the people. It is taken by all ranks in every
+complaint, of whatsoever nature it may be. Trona is likewise beat
+to a powder and mixed with snuff, to which it imparts a great
+degree of pungency. And lastly, it is given to horses, sheep, and
+other animals, which eat large lumps of it with the greatest
+avidity. Thermometer 78°, 89°, 91°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span><em>Friday,
+September 24th.</em>—The Boossà canoemen, who have been intoxicated
+every day since they have been here, returned to their homes this
+morning in a state of ebriety, having received a shilling each and
+a few needles, as a reward for their labour. Shortly after their
+departure, I landed for the purpose of proceeding to Wowow, and
+took possession of a house on the bank of the river, which had been
+prepared for me. The King of Wowow’s messenger accompanied me, and
+having got everything ready as soon as we could, we commenced our
+journey towards his city. It was the intention of the man from
+Boossà to have taken his leave of us here, and return to his
+sovereign; but when he heard the extraordinary communication and
+insinuations of the Prince of Wowow, he changed his mind, and
+resolved to accompany me as above related. I left my brother on the
+island to take care of our things, and the following remarks were
+made by him in my absence.</p>
+
+<p>‘The Nouffie messengers remain here with me, and the Queen of
+Boossà’s “master of the horse” has determined not to leave us till
+after our arrival at <em>Lever</em>, though we would much rather
+dispense with his company. They tell us that <em>Rabba</em> is two
+days’ journey by water from the town of Lever, and three from
+Funda, and that Funda is four days’ journey from the sea. On our
+arrival at Rabba, says Mohammed, or<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_230">[230]</span> after we shall have delivered a present to
+its chief, and the formalities of introduction are gone through, he
+will supply us with horses to convey us to a town wherein the Magīa
+resides, and which is about two days’ journey from thence, for it
+will be necessary that we should pay our respects to him in
+person.</p>
+
+<p>‘The chief of Patàshie came to see me this evening by
+lamp-light, accompanied by his sick relative, whom he pronounced to
+be much better, having slept soundly during the night, and
+experienced a mitigation of pain. I applied a little more spirits
+of hartshorn to his throat, and recommended temperance in eating,
+gentle exercise in the open air, to beware of chills, and avoid
+exposure to nightly damps and dews. The old chief and his nephew
+(for that is the relationship between them) took their leave of me
+with many expressions of thankfulness. Our hut has been literally
+crammed with visiters nearly the whole of the day. Thermometer 77°,
+88°, 92°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Saturday, September 25th.</em>—Nothing worthy of particular
+notice has occurred to-day; I continue to receive the utmost
+hospitality and kindness from the old benevolent chiefs of Teàh and
+this island, the latter of whom stays with me almost all day long.
+He took a fancy to the only English coat which is now left me, its
+green colour seeming to be the principal cause of his admiration;
+and as it is of little consequence here how uncouthly
+soever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> an European
+may be dressed, I cut off part of its skirts to make him a cap. A
+woman belonging to the chief died to-day in a state of insanity.
+According to the people’s account, the deceased was in good health
+three days ago, but this morning a malicious female demon entered
+into her, and began to exercise her malign propensities by
+tormenting her victim, throwing her upon fires, and into the water,
+causing her eyes to roll in a frenzied manner, and making her lie
+along the ground, raving and roaring most furiously. Last of all,
+they say the evil spirit put an end to her torture by <em>eating
+her life</em>, and she died. Thermometer 74°, 80°, 83°, during the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>Sunday, September 26th.</em>—A Mahomedan priest, furnished
+with pen and ink, arrived at Patàshie to pay his respects to us,
+and without wearying me with questions, he sat down very composedly
+and commenced writing an Arab charm or prayer, for our health,
+preservation, and success. I felt no inclination to interrupt the
+man’s benevolent intention; and when he had finished, the Magīa’s
+son, who happened to be present, animated by the same laudable
+impulse, produced a charm possessing, no doubt, as many virtues as
+the Mallam’s. These are nothing more than short extracts from the
+Koran. Both men appeared to write the Arabic character with a
+readiness and facility which one would scarcely<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> expect to find in this remote
+country. Charms or amulets are in universal use, more especially in
+Yarriba, where, perhaps, the Mahomedan religion is least felt, and
+has made least progress. They are generally encompassed with red
+cloth or leather; are worn for the most part on the left arm; and
+from ten to twenty are sometimes observed on the person of one
+individual. This custom might have originally been introduced into
+the country by the Arabs, and disseminated by their means through
+all these parts of the continent. The phylacteries of the ancient
+Jews, which were little rolls of parchment, containing written
+passages from the Holy Scriptures, and which used to be worn upon
+the forehead and the wrist of the left arm, might have given the
+Arabians the hint of wearing extracts from the Koran in like
+manner, and which, by the lapse of ages, have degenerated into the
+present superstitious practice of wearing charms, which is so
+prevalent in Africa. The same idle stories with regard to reputed
+wizards, necromancers, &amp;c., which are current in Boossà, obtain
+as great a degree of credit here; and the people likewise believe
+in other absurdities equally detestable. To-day a man has been
+accused of eating the spirit or living principle of another; but in
+what manner he is to be punished, no one has yet informed us.
+Thermometer 76°, 86°, 91°, during the day.’</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span><em>Monday,
+September 27th.</em>—I returned in the warmest part of the day from
+my visit to Wowow, with no less than three men as messengers from
+the king, the whole of whom are to accompany us to Lever. It has
+ever been the policy of all the African rulers of the cities and
+kingdoms through which we have passed since leaving Badágry, to
+furnish us with a greater number of guides and messengers than we
+have either required or wished. In the present instance, one would
+have been amply sufficient for our purpose, but, as on former
+occasions, the Wowow men are the king’s slaves, and will be
+obliged, on their return, to lay before their monarch whatever we
+may give them as a reward for their trouble; he will take from them
+as much as he likes, which most likely will not be less than
+seven-eighths of the whole, and the little left will then be
+divided among the messengers, so that self-interest alone has
+induced the king to send us three men, because three men will be
+entitled to more wages than one.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival at Wowow on the 24th instant, I felt too much
+fatigued from the length of the journey, and the heat of the
+weather, to pay my respects to the monarch, and therefore desired
+to be excused from visiting him till the morrow. Accordingly, on
+the following day, I had prepared myself to go to the king’s house,
+in pursuance of my agreement, but was greatly surprised on
+learning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> that the
+eccentric old man had excused himself from being seen on that day,
+on the same plea as I had the day before, observing that he had
+taken a ride to view his gardens in the morning, and that the
+exercise had so much tired him, that he felt no inclination
+whatever to receive visiters till next day. Therefore, it was not
+till the 26th, that the king granted me an audience, and then he
+said, with the greatest indifference, ‘I have not yet been able to
+procure you the canoe which I promised to get; but I have no doubt
+that the ruler of Patàshie will have it in his power to supply you
+with one to your satisfaction, for which purpose I will send an
+express to that island without delay, whom I will furnish with the
+necessary instructions to effect an immediate purchase.’ Thus, with
+as much discussion as would fill a volume, continued with little or
+no intermission for seven weeks, between the sovereigns of two
+countries, who during that period were sending messengers to each
+other continually, the mighty business which had employed all their
+thoughts, and in which they were unceasingly engaged—the simple
+purchase of a canoe, is even now left unfinished; in fact, up to
+the present moment, no more has been done in the matter, than when
+we first made known our intentions and wishes to the king of Boossà
+from the city of Yàoorie two months ago. So much for the expedition
+with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> which Africans
+usually transact their affairs. The king took the opportunity of
+informing me, that he should by and by set about erecting a
+suitable building for the reception of our countrymen, whenever it
+should please them to come up the river to trade: for the old man
+cherishes the belief, in common with other rulers on the banks of
+the Niger, that numbers of Europeans will, some time or other,
+certainly visit his country for the purposes of traffic.</p>
+
+<p>Before my departure, the monarch showed me, in compliance with
+my request, the whole of his collection of charms, which are
+written on sheets of paper, glued or pasted together. Amongst them
+I discovered a small edition of ‘Watts’s Hymns,’ on one of the
+blank leaves of which was written:—‘<em>Alexander Anderson, Royal
+Military Hospital, Gosport</em>, 1804.’ It is perhaps unnecessary
+to say, that Mr. Anderson was the companion, and I believe a very
+near relative of the celebrated Mr. Park. From the Wowow chieftain,
+as well as from his good old brother, and our friend Abba, I and my
+attendants experienced the most liberal hospitality; and, on taking
+my leave of them, they wished me farewell in the most cordial and
+affectionate manner. Besides the note from Mr. and Mrs. Watson to
+Mr. Park, which we obtained when at Boossà, we also saw another
+from Lady Dalkeith, of the same date, acknowledging<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span> the receipt of some drawings
+from him. Thermometer 76°, 89°, 93°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, Sept. 28th.</em>—It is really tiresome to say
+anything further on the provoking subject of the canoe; yet we
+think it necessary to remark, that not a single one is to be found
+here sufficiently large for our purpose, or at all answering the
+expectations held out to us by the prince of Wowow. Lever is
+therefore again fixed on as the place where our wishes are to be
+answered, and our hopes realized; and we are given to understand
+that we shall leave this place for thence at an early hour
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>On walking across Patàshie to-day, in perhaps its narrowest
+part, we found the island to be about a mile in width; yet, in
+comparison to its breadth, it is very disproportionate, being
+several miles in length. Patàshie is extremely populous for its
+size, and large clusters of huts are scattered all over the island.
+From a gentle eminence on the main land opposite, its appearance
+bears a striking resemblance to the more beautiful parts of the
+sea-coast.</p>
+
+<p>The people have a hut here, wherein all females who conduct
+themselves indecently, or commit any crimes or offences, are
+imprisoned. This building is distinguished from the others by its
+size, situation, and superior appearance. Outside the door-way, and
+on each side of it, are two clay figures, nearly<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> as large as life, which are
+affixed to the wall. One of them is intended to represent a woman
+in an upright position, and without clothing, so that every female
+who sees it may be reminded of the object and origin of the
+institution; but the thing looks extremely odd, and the execution,
+as might be supposed, is rude and contemptible. The figure opposite
+to it is a pretty good representation of a crocodile; and is placed
+against the wall, I suppose, merely as an ornament. Nearly all the
+junior classes of the population here go entirely naked; and it is
+not before they attain to man’s or woman’s estate that they begin
+to clothe themselves. Red clay is in general use among females of
+all ranks. The Magīa’s son intends leaving us to-morrow, on a visit
+to his father, whom he will inform of our movements, &amp;c. From
+thence he purposes proceeding to Rabba, where he will stay till our
+arrival. Thermometer 76°, 87°, 90°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, Sept. 29th.</em>—After our luggage had all been
+packed up this morning in readiness for our departure, and
+everything had been prepared for that purpose, word was brought us
+from the chief, that we should be unable to start till to-morrow,
+because the Niger, he said, would receive a great influx of water
+to-night, which would be considerably in our favour. As it rained
+heavily and incessantly nearly the whole of last night, and as we
+had continued heavy showers almost the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_238">[238]</span> whole of this forenoon, we have made no
+complaint or fuss at our disappointment, but quietly await the
+coming of to-morrow. In the evening we were urgently solicited by
+the hospitable chief of Patàshie, for a charm to render him
+successful in all his shooting excursions, and in hunting the
+hippopotamus. This request was soon followed by a similar one from
+his brother. For ourselves we are obliged to follow the current of
+opinion, or consent to lose our credit and be regarded with
+detestation; and, as our charms are likely to be as effective as
+those of the Arabs, we sometimes oblige the natives in this
+respect. Thermometer 75°, 85°, 87°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, Sept. 30th.</em>—Between eight and nine o’clock in
+the morning, horses were brought us from the chief and his nephew,
+to take us to the water’s side, where the luggage had been
+previously conveyed. Here we waited a good while till canoes were
+brought from another part of the island, there being but one got
+ready at the time of our arrival. While we stood near the water’s
+edge, hundreds of people were collected there to look at us, and
+among them was a native Pagan priest, who was dressed more
+fantastically than any Merry-Andrew in Christendom. His clothing
+was manufactured almost solely of fine soft grass. His head and
+shoulders and part of his body were hid underneath an enormous
+thing, in shape like the roof of a hut, with a fringe and tassels
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> stained grass. A
+tobe, made also of grass, excellently woven and of various colours,
+encircled his body, and reached as far as the knee; and the man
+wore likewise trowsers of the same material, and plaited in a
+similar manner, but this was unstained, and of the colour of dried
+grass; it was turned up at the ankles, though a deep fringe hung to
+the ground. He approached several individuals that were sitting on
+the turf, and stooping over them, the priest enveloped the upper
+part of their persons in his uncouth head-dress; shook it over
+them, which produced a strange rustling noise; screamed in a most
+frightful and unearthly tone; and then arose to perform the same
+barbarous ceremony to others.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i09"><a href="images/i09_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i09.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1"><em>The fetish at Patashie</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>When the canoes had arrived, and all our things had been removed
+into them from the beach, we were desired to ride to a
+landing-place further down the island, because of the rocks, which
+are reported to intercept the stream at a little distance from the
+place whereon we stood, and to be very dangerous for canoes which
+are heavily laden. But first of all we took a cordial farewell of
+the hearty old chief of <em>Teàh</em>, who had come over to see us
+before our departure. The venerable governor of Patàshie, to whom
+we are under so many obligations, then preceded us on the footway,
+walking with a staff; and we reached the appointed place of
+embarkation exactly at the same moment as the canoes. There we
+found a man and woman<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_240">[240]</span> sitting on a mat, which was placed on the
+grass, refreshing themselves with Guinea nuts and water; we partook
+of their fare by invitation, and as the canoes were waiting for us
+to come on board, we bade adieu, in the most expressive manner, to
+the good old chief of Patàshie, and thanking all the friends that
+had accompanied us thither, we jumped on board, and pushed off from
+the shore, cheered by the natives that were present.</p>
+
+<p>The current bore us rapidly along, but we regretted to find the
+river again broken up by rocks and numerous small islands, which
+spoil its delightful appearance, and render it unnavigable. A few
+miles below Patàshie, are three islands, abreast of each other, and
+by no means destitute of beauty or verdure, which are called
+collectively <em>Ràah</em>. On one of them is a large trading town,
+and near it the canoemen landed to get some refreshment. We then
+continued our course for some time without meeting any obstacle to
+embarrass us; but afterwards, in order to get clear of a reef of
+rocks, we were obliged to make our way through an exceedingly
+narrow channel, overhung with the branches of trees, and more than
+half filled with rushes and tall luxuriant grasses. This brought us
+into the main river again, and having passed along in front of one
+or two towns on the banks of the river, we came in sight of
+<em>Lever</em>, which was the place of our destination, and where
+we landed at one o’clock, after rather a short
+excursion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> from
+Patàshie of three hours. Lever may be distant from that island
+about twenty miles.</p>
+
+<p>Our surprise was great indeed, when, instead of the proper
+person whom we expected would have received us, we were welcomed on
+shore by a man called <em>Ducoo</em>, and who represented himself
+as agent and confidential friend of the prince of Rabba; but this
+surprise was not a little increased on learning that a party of
+forty or fifty armed Falátah soldiers were also in the town. Ducoo,
+who is a Bornouese, treated us with the courtly politeness of a
+Frenchman, and was equally lavish in his compliments and his offers
+of service; he walked with us to the chief of the town, to whom he
+took the liberty of introducing us, almost before he himself knew
+who or what we were; went himself and procured excellent lodgings
+for us, returned and sat down in our company to tell us some droll
+stories, and impart to us in confidence some very disagreeable
+news; then hastily rose up, went out, and came back again with a
+sheep and other provisions, which he had obtained by compulsion
+from the chief, and finally remained with us till long after the
+moon had risen, when he left us to our repose. A man of such
+excessive volubility we never recollect to have met with; but at
+the same time he seems to be a most useful fellow.</p>
+
+<p>This <em>Lever</em>, then, after all, does not belong
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> the king of
+Wowow, though it stands on his dominions, nor has that monarch a
+single subject here, or a solitary canoe, so that we are as far
+from getting one as ever we were, and with the loss of our horses
+to boot. We have been cajoled and out-manœuvred very prettily by
+those fellows of Boossà and its adjoining state, whom we falsely
+conceived to be our dearest and best black friends. They have
+played with us as if we were great dolls; we have been driven about
+like shuttlecocks; we have been to them first a gazing-stock, and
+are now no doubt their laughing-stock, perhaps their mockery; we
+have been their admiration—their buffoons—their wonder and their
+scorn—a byword and a jest. Else why this double-dealing, this
+deceit, this chicanery, these hollow professions? Why did they
+entrap us in this manner? Why have they led us about as though we
+had been blind, only to place us in the very lap of what
+<em>they</em> imagine to be danger? For can it be possible that the
+monarchs of Wowow and Boossà were ignorant of the state of things
+here, which is in their own immediate neighbourhood, and which have
+continued the same essentially for these three years? Surely they
+have knowingly deceived us.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as we were convinced that no canoe could be had in this
+place, as we have all along been led to expect, we conceived it
+prudent, under existing circumstances, to detain the two
+canoes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span> which were
+lent us this morning by the chief of Patàshie; one of them is
+tolerably large, and nearly new, but the other is of much smaller
+dimensions. However we are well aware that the king of Wowow has
+not yet paid for them, and we are afraid that he never will; and it
+grieves and saddens us beyond expression to do this thing; for the
+island ruler is a simple, kind-hearted, and good, very good old
+man. But what can we do? <em>We</em> have not the means of
+purchasing his canoes, for the king of Wowow has deprived us of
+them; our resources are nearly exhausted, and how should we be able
+to prosecute our journey? The Patàshie canoemen stoutly resisted
+our claims, as it is natural to suppose that they would. For our
+own parts we were actually ashamed to look them in the face; but
+our busy, restless friend, <em>Ducoo</em>, the priest, soon
+silenced their remarks by threatening to cut off the head of him
+who should presume from that time to set foot in either of the
+canoes. To give his menace the greater weight, he stationed two of
+his men, to guard the forbidden boats till the sun went down with
+drawn swords, and during the greater part of the night another of
+his men paraded up and down the banks of the river near the spot as
+a watch, and this man was continually playing upon a large
+drum.</p>
+
+<p>We are furnished with four messengers, besides him from Nouffie,
+one of whom is from Boossà,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_244">[244]</span> and the other three from Wowow. The office
+of these men is to see that everything promised us by their
+respective sovereigns be executed in pursuance of their agreement;
+but no one can be more intimidated or alarmed than they. They have
+scarcely dared to open their lips for the purpose of speaking since
+our arrival; they look as silly as sheep, sneak about our lodgings,
+and hang down their heads like prisoners under sentence of death.
+They are of no service whatever to us, rather a disadvantage in
+fact, but yet their wages must be paid them.</p>
+
+<p>After the departure of Ducoo in the evening, the chief of the
+town came to pay his respects and to wish us good night. He related
+to us a pitiable account of the evils which he and his people had
+undergone, and were still enduring from the selfishness and
+rapacity of the Falátahs; ‘and they never pay us a visit,’ said he,
+‘but my spirits droop within me, and my heart becomes heavy and
+sorrowful, for these foreigners come only to plunder and lay
+waste.’ The appearance of things at the present time seems to
+confirm this assertion, for a number of Falátahs are here for no
+other reason; and the melancholy of the chief’s countenance was an
+eloquent illustration of the embittered state of his heart and
+feelings. Thermometer 78°, 89°, 93°, during the day.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span><a id=
+"c14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs — The
+Travellers’ Canoes claimed — Interference of Ducoo — Detention of
+the Travellers — Their departure from Lever — The Town of Bajiebo —
+Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo — Departure from Bajiebo — Scenery of
+the River — Town of Leechee — Visit to the Chief — The Passage
+continued down the River — Madjie Island — Mount Kesa — Land on
+Belee Island — Messenger from Rabba — Arrival of Suliken Rouah, or
+the King of the Dark Water — Grand Procession of Canoes down the
+River — Arrival at Zagōzhi<a id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Island — Its swampy
+nature.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Friday, October 1st.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">This</span> morning, to our infinite relief, the four
+messengers from Wowow and Boossà spoken of yesterday, were paid for
+having accompanied us hither, and in the forenoon they left the
+town in company to go to Wowow. The Patàshie canoemen also received
+their wages at the same time, and embarked in two canoes a few
+minutes afterwards, on their return homewards, so that there only
+remains with us at present one of the Nouffie messengers who joined
+us at Boossà.</p>
+
+<p>This town is called indiscriminately <em>Lever</em> and
+<em>Layaba</em>, though the latter name seems most generally
+applied here. Its population is great, and though it is very
+extensive, it has been built and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_246">[246]</span> occupied a very few years only. Its
+inhabitants are all Nouffie people, and not long ago resided in a
+large village on the opposite side of the river; but on account of
+the civil wars which raged in their country, setting every man
+against his friend, and against his neighbour, when property was
+insecure, freedom threatened, and life in danger, they were driven
+to seek an asylum here, where they fancied themselves out of the
+influence of these evils, and beyond the reach of the Falátahs, of
+whom they have an unconquerable dread. Here accordingly they
+erected their dwellings, and cleared the adjacent ground for
+cultivation. However, the poor people were not left a great while
+to enjoy unmolested the security which they had been in quest of,
+and which they imagined they had found at Layaba, for three years
+ago their relentless enemies invaded their retreat, ransacked the
+town and destroyed their houses by fire. Fortunately for them the
+inhabitants had timely notice of the approach of these marauders,
+and succeeded in recrossing the river, just before their arrival,
+without the loss of a single man; nor could the Falátahs follow
+them there, because they had no canoes. But rather than have their
+property destroyed a second time, and rather than be liable to
+continual irruptions of their enemies, who would abuse their women
+and enslave themselves, after their return hither the people of
+Layaba consented<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> to
+pay a certain tribute to the prince of the Falátahs at Rabba,
+independent of a kind of ground-rent or acknowledgment, which is
+paid to the owner of the soil; so that a double duty is by this
+means exacted from them. Nor is this all: for parties of Falátahs,
+which are without employment at home, are generally prowling about
+the country, and levying contributions on those villages which are
+too feeble to resist their claims.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the case here at this moment; the Falátahs entered the
+town on Wednesday to take from its peaceful inhabitants whatever
+they thought proper. These men are all extremely well-dressed, and
+are armed with large swords, which are carried about their persons
+wherever they go. It is likely enough that, in this town, their
+object, for the present at least, will be defeated, for it is
+affirmed that they are in terrible apprehension of us,
+understanding that we should interfere in their unjustifiable
+proceedings; and appearances seem to confirm this assertion.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon their party was assembled together by beat of
+drum, and they crossed the river in a hurry almost immediately
+after. Without asking our permission, or giving the slightest
+intimation of their intentions to either of us, they launched and
+took away the Patàshie canoe, which we call ours, and filled it
+with their people, which some one observing, he came running in
+haste to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span> our hut,
+and informed us that the Falátahs had stolen our largest canoe, and
+were taking it away. Unacquainted then with their true motives for
+this action, we were filled with apprehension, and believing the
+story which had been told us, my brother instantly repaired to the
+water-side, where he observed, sure enough, our canoe filled with
+Falàtahs, who were waiting the signal for starting. He was agitated
+at the insolence of the fellows, and ordered them to get out of the
+canoe immediately, or take the consequences. They were about to
+obey his commands, when our officious friend, Ducoo, the priest,
+stepped forward, put his hand upon his shoulder, and with his usual
+volubility, desired him to be cool, and he would tell him all. He
+then informed him that he had himself taken the liberty of
+launching the canoe for the use of his friends, made an apology for
+not asking permission, and said, that, after the Falátahs had
+crossed over on the other side, it should be brought back to us
+again. This satisfied my brother, and he left them, though he knew
+he had been telling a falsehood, for it was certainly his intention
+to send away the canoe, so that we should never have the use of it;
+but as Ducoo was to remain at Layaba a little longer, we had
+determined to keep him in ‘durance vile,’ till another, through his
+means, should be got for us.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time I had also repaired to the<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_249">[249]</span> water-side with a pistol, which so
+terrified the Falátahs, that those who were on shore jumped hastily
+into another canoe, and all of them stole away as fast as they
+could, in great trepidation, for they fancied that their end was
+come. The priest subsequently remarked, that since our arrival,
+they had been greatly alarmed on account of our presence, and that
+he had been unable to suppress their fears. Thinking to pay us a
+compliment, he said we were stronger and better looking than any
+chief in the whole country, with the exception of the sultan of
+Bornou. He is himself a tall handsome fellow, and was chuckling at
+his own ingenuity, but we took little notice of him, and gave him
+not so much as a needle for his remark. This same individual has
+begun to show himself in his true colours; in the morning he began
+begging with much importunity, not only for himself, but for
+others, nor would he be quieted until we had satisfied his
+covetousness; and he then laid claim to one of our canoes, which he
+had the impudence to offer us for sale, and entreated that we would
+purchase of him! Surely the man cannot be in earnest. This is
+impudence with a vengeance!</p>
+
+<p>Another small party of Falátahs entered Layaba this afternoon.
+An hour or two since, one of them attempted to take away a bow and
+arrows from an inhabitant of the town, who disputed his<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> right to do so; but the
+Falátah enforced his demand by cutting him across the right
+shoulder with his sword. The wounded man saw the blood and wept,
+and ran away to make a complaint to his chief, who hearkened to his
+tale and pitied him. After a good deal of trouble, he caused the
+bow and arrows to be given back to their rightful owner, but he
+could do no more; he dared not punish the assailant for his crime,
+and he was suffered to boast of it at large. How different are
+these people from the peaceful and happy Falátahs in Yarriba and
+other countries, who spend their time solely in pastoral
+occupations and pursuits! Thermometer 76°, 85°, 87°, during the
+day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, October 2d.</em>—The chief sent us another fine
+sheep to-day, and a quantity of dressed provisions swimming in palm
+oil. He was induced to make us this present from Ducoo’s
+insinuations, who, no doubt, has his own private ends in view. The
+priest boasts an acquaintance with the late unfortunate Major
+Laing, and affirms that he was near the spot at the time of that
+gentleman’s death. He can also relate the whole of the
+circumstances attending the melancholy fate of Mr. Park and his
+associates. But this man is an eternal talker, and therefore we
+receive all his communications with extreme suspicion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>In the afternoon
+a small party of men arrived here in a canoe from the chief of the
+island of <em>Teàh</em>, with a message to us, purporting that the
+canoes which we had, to his infinite surprise, detained at Layaba,
+did not belong, as we imagined, to his friend the Chief of
+Patáshie, but were his own property; and as he did not acknowledge
+the authority of Wowow, but had ever been subject to the King of
+Nouffie, he considered that we could have no right whatever to the
+canoes in question, and therefore he would entreat us to return
+them by the hands of his messengers. He had lent them, because he
+was willing to oblige us and please his neighbour; but he did not
+conceive or think it possible, that we could make so ungrateful and
+unkind a return for his hospitality, and the respect and attention
+which it had been his pride and pleasure to show us. For our own
+parts, we could not forbear acknowledging the truth and justice of
+the observations of the Teàh chieftain, and blaming ourselves for
+the step we had taken. We therefore expressed our deep and very
+sincere regret at the measure which we had, from a combination of
+circumstances, been compelled to adopt; yet we assured the chief
+messenger, a quiet, respectable man, that it was not altogether our
+own fault, (for indeed it was not,) as the Patáshie canoemen well
+knew, for the men of Wowow had forbidden them to take back
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span> boats,
+promising that their sovereign would pay for them, and the Falátah
+agent had prevented them from doing so. We said further, that
+whatever might be the consequence, we had not the slightest
+objection for the canoes to be restored to their rightful owner;
+and provided the men from Teàh could obtain the consent of the
+priest to take them away, they were at liberty to do so whenever
+they might think proper. But this they were by no means disposed to
+do, for they both feared and hated him; and therefore they bribed
+the Nouffie messenger with a large sum of money to assist them in
+their project, and purposed taking away both canoes in the
+night-season by stealth. However, their intentions were frustrated
+by the watchful vigilance of the priest, who had mistrusted them
+long before they were made known to us; and when he had actually
+detected their plans, he ordered the canoes to be pulled up on
+shore, two hundred yards at least from the water’s edge, and
+observed with vehemence, that after what he had done, should they
+be launched again into the water and taken away, he would instantly
+tie a rope round the necks of the chief of the town, and the
+Nouffie messenger that had accepted the bribe, and in that
+humiliating state, they should be driven like beasts to their
+sovereign, the Magīa.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, the inhabitants of the town<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_253">[253]</span> assembled outside our house to amuse
+themselves by dancing and singing in the moonlight; for,
+notwithstanding all their misfortunes and oppressions, they never
+refrain from indulging with all their hearts in these sprightly and
+thoughtless entertainments. Every dancer held in each hand a cow’s
+tail; they were all dressed grotesquely, and a great quantity of
+strings of cowries encircled their legs and bodies, which made a
+loud rattling noise by the violence and celerity of their
+movements. They sang as they danced, and excited, by the oddity of
+their gestures, loud clappings of applause, and bursts of laughter
+from all the bystanders. The spectacle was exceedingly ludicrous;
+we have rarely witnessed so much jocularity and thoughtless gaiety;
+and we have seldom laughed so much at any native exhibition. Though
+the performers panted from want of breath with their exertions,
+they yet continued their darling exercises, as is usual with them,
+till long after midnight.</p>
+
+<p>Like many of their countrymen, and like the natives of Yarriba,
+the inhabitants of Layaba appear to bestow scarcely a moment’s
+reflection either on public misery or individual distress—upon
+their own misfortunes or the calamities of their neighbours. Nature
+has moulded their minds to enjoy the life they lead; their grief,
+if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> they grieve at
+all, is but for a moment; sorrow comes over them and vanishes like
+the lightning’s flash; they weep, and, in the same breath, their
+spirits regain their elasticity and cheerfulness; they may well be
+said to drink of the waters of Lethe whenever they please. As long
+as they have food to eat, and health to enjoy their frivolous
+pastimes, they seem contented, happy, and full of life. They think
+of little else.—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Thought would destroy their
+paradise.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Thermometer 77°, 88°, 90°, during the day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Oct. 3d.</em>—We were desired yesterday to get our
+things packed up, and ourselves prepared, for that this morning we
+should quit the island to proceed on our journey. In pursuance of
+this arrangement we had got all our luggage in readiness, and only
+waited the coming of the chief to take our departure, when, to our
+great regret, one of his messengers entered our hut to apprize us
+that we should be unable to go away till to-morrow, his master
+having been dissuaded from his original purpose by the officious,
+bustling priest, our friend and enemy. We submitted to the
+disappointment as patiently and silently as we could; and in the
+evening we obtained a solemn promise, that whatever might be the
+consequence, no one should divert him from the resolution he had
+formed of detaining us no longer than to-day;<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_255">[255]</span> and that early to-morrow morning we
+should certainly depart. Thermometer 76°, 89°, 88°, during the
+day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, Oct. 4th.</em>—Our surprise and displeasure may be
+guessed, when, after our goods had been removed from our hut into
+the yard outside, we were informed that we should be compelled to
+abide in the town yet another day, notwithstanding all that the
+chief had told us yesterday. Our patience was now completely
+exhausted; and we were in great anger, for it is disheartening to
+be always deceived and trifled with by such scoundrels. Repairing
+instantly to a hut, wherein we knew the chief passed most of his
+time, we discovered him sitting on the ground in company with the
+artful Ducoo and our Nouffie messenger, and engaged in a very high
+dispute with both of them. Our unexpected and abrupt intrusion, and
+angry looks, cut short their wrangling; and we spoke with much
+emphasis of the shameful manner in which we had been treated, and
+expressed our determination of leaving Layaba presently, in
+defiance of them and all their power. With the most insolent
+effrontery in the world, the priest smiled at us, and replied, that
+we were entirely in his power—that we should do as <em>he</em>
+liked, and quit the town whenever <em>he</em> thought proper. Such
+language as this we thought was rather too bold; we pretended to be
+in a violent passion, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_256">[256]</span> quickly undeceived him in this point,
+threatening, that if either he, or any of his men, should presume
+to interfere with us in our intentions or proceedings, or attempt
+to hinder us from getting away from the town, we should feel no
+more hesitation or reluctance in shooting him than if he had been a
+partridge or a Guinea-hen! The priest, who had never before seen
+anything in us but mildness, was intimidated at the determined and
+resolute behaviour we had found it necessary to adopt: he was
+crest-fallen in a moment, and, from being one of the most
+boisterous and consequential fellows in the world, became quite
+passive; yet his presence of mind did not forsake him: he stammered
+out a kind of apology, attempted to soothe us by soft language and
+submission, in which he found little difficulty, and did all in his
+power to effect a reconciliation. Having settled this business, we
+went out, and assembling our men, attempted to draw our canoe to
+the river side, but the ground was even, and the boat so long and
+heavy, that notwithstanding all our exertions we could move her
+only a few inches towards the river. The people were ashamed of
+themselves to see us labouring so hard, and to so little purpose;
+and the priest, likewise, observing us, was convinced that we were
+in earnest: therefore, whispering a few words in the ear of the
+chief, they both came down to the spot where we<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> were toiling at the canoe,
+followed by a number of men; these, with the priest at their head,
+took the work out of our hands, and in less than two minutes the
+boat was floating on the water. Our luggage was then conveyed into
+the two canoes, and shortly afterwards we were supplied with three
+men to paddle them with the assistance of our own. Here we took our
+farewell of the chief and the priest, the latter begging us very
+anxiously to speak well of him to his sovereign at Rabba.</p>
+
+<p>It was not till after we were all in the canoes, and ready to
+push off, that those on shore discovered them to be overladen, and
+recommended us to hire one, of immense size, which was lying
+alongside. Without stopping to make them any reply, or listen to
+any further nonsense, we desired our own men to push the boats out
+into the middle of the current, which they did very promptly, and
+the town of Layaba, with its chief, and inhabitants, was speedily
+out of sight, and soon forgotten. This was about nine o’clock in
+the morning, so that, after all, we had lost but little time in
+getting away.</p>
+
+<p>The banks of the river near Lever are high, being, according to
+our estimation, about forty feet above the river, and steep to the
+water-side. The river itself appeared deep, and free from rocks of
+any kind; its direction nearly south. We ran down the stream very
+pleasantly for twelve or<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_258">[258]</span> fourteen miles, the Niger, during the whole
+of the distance, rolling grandly along—a noble river, neither
+obstructed by islands, nor deformed with rocks and stones. Its
+width varied from one to three miles; the country on each side was
+very flat, and a few mean, dirty-looking villages were scattered on
+the water’s edge. We then came to two small islands; the land
+appeared more elevated, and in some few places it rose in gentle
+hills. We observed three remarkable and lofty hills on the eastern
+side, which rose very abruptly from the plain, and were separated
+from each other only by a few yards of ground. Both banks of the
+river were overhung with large shady trees, between which we could
+perceive the land behind to be open and well-cultivated; and, if we
+may be allowed to form an opinion from the number of towns and
+villages which were scattered over the country, we should conceive
+it to be thickly inhabited also.</p>
+
+<p>At one o’clock, <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, we landed at a
+considerably large and spacious town, called <em>Bajiebo</em>,
+which is inhabited by Nouffie people, though it is situated on the
+Yarriba or western side of the river. For dirt, bustle, and
+nastiness of all kinds, this place, we think, can scarcely be
+exceeded. For two hours after our arrival we were obliged to wait
+in a close and diminutive hut, till a more convenient and becoming
+habitation could be procured<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_259">[259]</span> for our reception, and the pleasure of the
+chief with regard to us should be known. Here we were visited by a
+number of the inhabitants, consisting both of Falàtahs and
+<em>Noufanchie</em> (Nouffie people). Among the former was a
+sagacious and intelligent old man, who has travelled a long, long
+way on the Niger, even beyond Timbuctoo; and he states, that that
+town is several miles from the banks of the river. We were sadly
+incommoded by these visitors, who scarcely allowed us to move or
+breathe; which, joined to the heat of the weather and the
+insufferable stench, rendered our situation truly comfortless and
+distressing.</p>
+
+<p>We were at length removed from this horrible hole, and conducted
+to a hut in the heart of the town, in which wood fires had been
+burning the whole of the day, so that the wall was almost as warm
+as the sides of a heated oven, insomuch that it could hardly be
+endured. Yet, to render it more unpleasant still, a large,
+closely-woven mat was placed before the door-way, in order to
+prevent a thousand eyes from staring in upon us; this excluded
+every breath of air. Our feelings, during the whole of the night,
+were more distressing than can be conceived: we were almost
+suffocated with the closeness and intense heat of the room; and
+dreamt that we were being baked alive in an oven. It appears that
+this town is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span>
+governed by two chiefs, separate and distinct from each other, one
+of whom is a Nouffie man, and the other a Falàtah; for in the
+afternoon, each of these individuals sent us a bowl of rice as a
+present.</p>
+
+<p>Bajiebo is a flourishing and important trading town although not
+walled, and one of the largest and most populous that we have yet
+seen. A considerable traffic is carried on by its inhabitants with
+their countrymen on the opposite side of the river, for which
+purpose they have a great number of canoes of large dimensions,
+which are continually employed every day in crossing from side to
+side. Their huts are erected so close to each other, and with so
+little regard to comfort and a free circulation of air, that there
+is scarcely a foot-path in the town wide enough for more than one
+man to walk on at a time: and not having the advantage of shady
+trees, the heat of the town is excessive and distressing. Its
+uncleanness, filth, and extreme nastiness have already been alluded
+to; and the odour emitted from the dirty streets is offensive, and
+almost insupportable. The people formerly inhabited a town on the
+opposite bank of the Niger, but as was the case with those of
+Layaba, they were induced, or rather compelled to settle here, on
+account of the commotions occasioned by the civil wars, and like
+them, too, they have been found out by their greatest enemies.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i10"><a href="images/i10_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i10.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1"><em>Nouffie Canoe</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>The power of the
+Falàtahs here is evidently very great. One of their number is
+styled chief, and has more authority and influence than the native
+Ruler. We have been obliged to make a present to each of these
+individuals, and other high and mighty personages were likewise
+desirous of obtaining a similar favour at our hands, but we made
+light of their conversation and would not understand their
+enigmas.</p>
+
+<p>We have seen to-day several large canoes, the bottom of which is
+made of a single tree and built up with planks to a considerable
+height. In many of them sheds, or houses as they are called, have
+been erected, which are thatched with straw, and in which fires are
+kindled, food prepared, and people sleep, and indeed live
+altogether. The roof is circular, and formed in much the same
+manner as the upper part of a covered waggon in England. These
+sheds are of the most essential service to the natives, as, with
+their assistance, merchants are enabled to travel with some degree
+of comfort, with their wives and household, several days’ journey
+up and down the Niger, without being under the necessity of
+landing, except to purchase provisions, or whenever they feel
+inclined to do so. As the people have nothing that equals or
+answers to pitch, hemp, or tar, they use iron staples for the
+purpose of repairing it and keeping the planks together when a
+canoe becomes leaky,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_262">[262]</span> or any part of it, as it frequently
+happens, is split by exposure to the rays of the sun. We have seen
+an old canoe, which had undergone repairs several times, with no
+less than from eight to ten thousand of these staples driven into
+her sides and bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Our course to-day has been about S.b.E. The thermometer has been
+at 70°, 90° and 95°.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tuesday, October 5th.</em>—Before sunrise this morning, our
+luggage was removed to the beach, and between six and seven o’clock
+we were once more upon the water. Just below the town of
+<em>Bajiebo</em> the Niger spreads itself into two noble branches,
+of nearly equal width, formed by an island. We preferred journeying
+on the eastern branch, but for no particular reason. The country
+beyond the banks was very fine. The island in the middle of the
+river, is small, but verdant, woody, and handsome; and we passed by
+the side of it in a very few minutes, with considerable velocity.
+It was then that both banks presented the most delightful
+appearance. They were embellished with mighty trees and elegant
+shrubs, which were clad in thick and luxuriant foliage, some of
+lively green, and others of darker hues; and little birds were
+singing merrily among their branches. Magnificent festoons of
+creeping plants, always green, hung from the tops of the tallest
+trees, and drooping to the water’s edge, formed immense natural
+grottoes, pleasing and grateful to the eye, and seemed to
+be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> fit abodes for
+the Naiades of the river! Yet with all its allurements there is
+something wanting in an African scene to render it comparable in
+interest and beauty to an English landscape.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘By secret charms our native land
+attracts.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is nothing here half so attractive or inspiring. It is
+seldom, very seldom, that the morn is ushered in by the ‘song of
+earliest birds;’ which is so eminently enchanting at home, and
+which induces so much happiness and cheerfulness, benevolence and
+joy. Here there are no verdant fields, nor hedges, adorned with the
+jessamine, the daisy, the primrose, the blue-bottle, or the violet,
+and the hundred other pretty wild flowers, which please the sight,
+and exhale in spring-time or summer the most grateful and delicious
+fragrance. No flowers here</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Waste their sweetness in the desert
+air,’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">for not a solitary one is any where to be seen.
+Besides, generally speaking, a loneliness, a solemnity, a
+death-like silence pervades the noblest and most magnificent
+prospects, which has a tendency to fill the mind with associations
+of sadness, and reflections of melancholy, very opposite to the
+silent cheerfulness, and that internal springing joy which we feel
+on contemplating those goodly and charming landscapes, which are
+the pride, the beauty, and the ornament of England. To look at the
+cleanliness of our cottages, and the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_264">[264]</span> tidiness of their occupants is pleasant;
+but when the dirty mud huts of the natives of this part of the
+world, with the people themselves, do appear, in our opinion, they
+banish every favourable impression, and destroy the effect of
+all.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of an hour after leaving Bajiebo, we passed by two
+towns of considerable extent, and a hill was observed right a-head
+of us, covered with trees, one of which was of such singular
+appearance, that it might easily be mistaken at a short distance
+for a tall pole, with a flag unfurled, and waving at the top of
+it.</p>
+
+<p>At a little before eight in the morning, we saw, and passed
+along at the base of a high pile of loose granite rocks, large and
+dark-coloured, which are on the Nouffie or eastern side of the
+river; and almost close to them and on the edge of the water is a
+small town. In about a half-hour afterwards we arrived at an
+extensive town, situated on the same side, and called
+<em>Leechee</em>, which is inhabited by Noufanchie, and said to be
+a place of considerable rank and consequence. Here we landed by
+express desire, and finding an empty grass hut near the spot, we
+entered and took possession of it till such time as the chief
+should be made acquainted with our arrival. Here also our canoe-men
+left us and returned to Bajiebo, where we had hired them.</p>
+
+<p>We were not suffered to wait long, but in a few<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span> minutes received an invitation
+from the chief to come and see him; and having walked through a
+good part of the town, we at length approached his residence, and
+were introduced without ceremony or hindrance into a large and
+lofty hut, where we discovered the chief sitting on a platform of
+mud, in great state, with about forty natives and Falàtahs in
+earnest conversation on each side of him. He received us with great
+civility and many demonstrations of gladness, and desired us to
+draw near his person, that he might have a better opportunity of
+looking at and talking to us. However he appeared unwilling for us
+to quit <em>Leechee</em> till to-morrow, and pressed us strongly to
+remain with him for the day, which, however, not all his
+solicitations and importunities could induce us to accede to. A
+Falàtah then commenced a long and pithy harangue, in which he
+endeavoured to prejudice the chief and those that were with him
+against us, and to fill their minds with alarm and apprehension, on
+account of our malevolence, and the extraordinary power which he
+said we possessed; but his eloquence was unavailing, for we had the
+consolation to hear one of his own companions and countrymen desire
+him to hold his tongue, and mind his own business, and consequently
+his remarks were soon forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>We had provided ourselves with a small present for the chief on
+our first setting out for his residence,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_266">[266]</span> but after what we had seen and heard, we
+fancied that it was too trifling, and feared that it would be
+returned as such by the chief, and that we should be exposed to
+abuse and ribaldry from those that were with him; therefore
+something was added to the gift before we presented it. We then
+took our leave of him and his people, and instantly made our way
+back to the water-side, where we waited in the grass hut, what
+appeared to us to be a long, long time, for the appearance of the
+canoemen with whom the chief had promised to supply us. In this
+interval, the governor sent us a pot of honey, a couple of fine
+lemons, and a few limes. After a considerable delay, a man for each
+canoe could only be procured for us, so that two of our own people
+were obliged to supply the place of others as well as they
+could.</p>
+
+<p>The width of the Niger at Leechee is about three miles, and the
+inhabitants have plenty of canoes for the purpose of crossing the
+river, for fishing, and for other purposes. About half-past ten we
+got into our canoes, which we pushed off the shore, and proceeded
+at a good rate down the stream, along the side of a considerable
+island, which is within gun-shot of the town; and after passing a
+large open village, of respectable appearance, which is on the
+western bank, we put in at a small town, a few miles below, also on
+the Yarriba side of the river, where we were
+constrained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> to go
+in quest of other canoemen, because those from Leechee, though they
+had been with us only forty minutes, and had certainly not laboured
+very hard, had refused to proceed with us any further, nor could
+all our enticements induce them to forego this resolution. Here we
+were detained in our canoes and exposed to the sun for an hour and
+a half, in order to obtain fresh canoemen, the inhabitants of the
+town being absent in the fields.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after leaving this town we passed another island, of
+goodly appearance, but we understand it is uninhabited. We then
+came in sight of a double range of rocky hills, one of which is
+close to the water, and both running from north-east to nearly due
+south. At one <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we were again obliged
+to put in and land at a small village, which is situated on an
+island, for an exchange of canoemen, for, like those from Leechee,
+these were unwilling to go a great way from their homes. In an
+hour’s time a number of the islanders came down to us, and paddled
+us to the opposite side of the river, and from thence along the
+base of the hills already alluded to. The appearance of these hills
+is wild and gloomy, though highly romantic. Trees of hungry growth
+and stunted shrubs, whose foliage seemed for the most part dull and
+withering, shoot out of the hollows and interstices, and overhang
+immense precipices,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span>
+whose jagged summits they partly conceal. Indeed, these hills look
+dismal and lonesome in the extreme, and seem to be visited only by
+wild beasts and birds of prey, or by the shadow of a passing cloud,
+which serves to increase, if possible, their dreariness and gloom.
+On the top of one of them is a huge and singular block of white
+stone, which, at a certain distance, greatly resembles an ancient
+fortification. We arrived at the end of our journey, and the
+termination of the nearer range of hills, between four and five
+o’clock in the afternoon, when we landed at a fishing-town on a
+small island, which is called <em>Madjie</em>, and belongs to the
+Noufanchie. Here we were received with cheerfulness by the chief,
+who accommodated us with a roomy hut, sent us a quantity of dressed
+provisions, and otherwise treated us in the most hospitable manner.
+The banks of the river that we have passed to-day are high, and
+well cultivated. The direction of the river rather to the eastward
+of south, and the distance from this island to Bajiebo about thirty
+miles. The thermometer has been at 78°, 92°, 94°, during the
+day.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, Oct. 6th.</em>—About seven o’clock in the morning
+we departed from the island of Madjie, where we had slept, and
+pursued our journey down the river, which for a short distance
+takes a turn to the east, by the side of another<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> range of hills, and afterwards
+flows for a number of miles a little to the southward of east. Near
+the island of Madjie, the Niger branches into three streams, and we
+were recommended to follow the most easterly, because the other two
+were neither considered so deep nor so free from danger.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the island we journeyed very rapidly down the current
+for a few minutes, when, having passed another, we came suddenly in
+sight of an elevated rock, which is called <em>Mount Kesa</em> by
+the natives, and almost at the same instant we found ourselves
+abreast of it. It forms a small island, and is probably not less
+than three hundred feet in height, which renders it a conspicuous
+and remarkable object. It is excessively steep, and rising out of
+the river as it does, its appearance is irresistibly imposing and
+majestic beyond expression. Its base is fringed by venerable trees,
+and less magnificent vegetation, which also strives to spring forth
+from its barren and almost naked sides. The height of Mount Kesa,
+its solitary position, and the peculiarity of its form, distinguish
+it from every other, and render it an object of more than common
+interest. It is greatly venerated by the natives of this part of
+the country, and, as may readily be imagined, favours the
+superstitious notions which are attached to it by a simple and
+credulous people, who, like the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_270">[270]</span> vulgar of Europe, are fond of the
+marvellous. The story attached to Mount Kesa is of a very romantic
+nature. The natives believe that a benevolent genius makes the
+mountain his favourite and continual abode, and dispenses around
+him a benign and heavenly influence. Here the misfortunes of the
+unhappy are alleviated, the wants of the needy supplied, and the
+lamentations of the mourner turned to joy: sin, sorrow, and
+suffering are unknown; solemnity gives place to merriment, and the
+solicitude of futurity to present enjoyment and thoughtless
+jocularity. But more especially, say the natives, the weary
+traveller here finds a refuge from the storm, and a rest from his
+toils; here he reposes in the delights of security, and revels in
+the comforts of ease. However, to obtain all this, he makes known
+his wants and desires to the spirit of the mountain by supplication
+and prayer, when they are instantly answered; he receives the most
+delicate and excellent food from invisible hands, and when
+sufficiently invigorated by refreshment, he is at liberty either to
+continue his journey or remain awhile to participate in the
+blessings of the mountain. Such is the story we received from these
+superstitious people of this celebrated mount. A little to the
+northward of it is a naked rock, which rises only a few yards above
+the surface of the water; but from its insignificance it is
+unworthy of particular description.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i11"><a href="images/i11_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i11.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1"><em>Mount Kesey</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>A canoe, in
+which was a Mahomedan priest, with his women and train, kept
+company with us down the river, and Rabba was the place of its
+destination. A very spirited competition was for some time
+maintained between his canoemen and ours, in regard to the velocity
+with which they could impel their respective boats; but that of the
+priest was three times larger and heavier than ours, and he was at
+length constrained to forego the contest, the odds being so very
+much against him. This created a loud laugh and a little cheering
+on our side, and much merriment on both. All the canoes then
+proceeded abreast of each other, and the whole of the party were on
+the best possible terms. The priest’s wives strove to entertain us
+to the best of their ability with specimens of their music. One of
+them played on a four-stringed guitar, and her companions
+accompanied the instrument with their voices; and though the noise
+was not very melodious, still it was more agreeable to us than
+silence; indeed, we were highly pleased with the attempt of these
+sooty ladies, for how rude soever the performance may be, music has
+oftentimes a pleasant and soothing influence.</p>
+
+<p>At nine in the morning we landed near a small town to procure a
+fresh supply of canoemen, and we waited for them above an hour,
+without visiting the adjacent village. As soon as we had
+obtained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span> them we
+journeyed along the eastern side of the river; and, at eleven
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, perceived the smoke of the far-famed
+Rabba ascending many miles before us. In another half-hour we drew
+near an island, called <em>Belee</em>, which is exceedingly low,
+flat, and swampy. Here we stopped at a large, but mean and
+dirty-looking town, which stands close to the water’s edge.</p>
+
+<p>We were shortly introduced to the chief, who is a great, rich,
+and important personage, if we may believe the representations of
+our messenger. He informed us, that Mohamed, the Magīa’s son, who
+had left us at Patàshie, had returned from his father, in pursuance
+of his agreement, but, instead of remaining at Rabba, as we
+expected, he had come over to Belee, and been waiting three days on
+the island, in expectation of our arrival. However, having heard in
+the earlier part of the morning that we were to have slept at
+Madjie last night, he instantly left Belee in a canoe, and
+proceeded up the river to meet us. For ourselves we had neither
+heard nor seen anything either of him or his canoe. The governor
+further said, you will be obliged to remain at Belee till Mohamed’s
+return to the island, for he has news of importance to communicate
+to you; to-morrow morning you will leave hence, and proceed to
+another island, which is further down the river, wherein it is
+arranged that you shall abide till your affairs be<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> finally adjusted. There was
+some mystery about this, which was unexpected and not very
+gratifying.</p>
+
+<p>It was nearly evening before Mohamed returned to Belee, and he
+came to us in a dripping state, with an excuse that he had been
+upset in his canoe two or three times. After the first salutations
+were over, he informed us of his visit to his father, and its
+result. The Magīa had desired him to assure us of his ‘best wishes
+in our welfare, and his determination to protect, support, and
+encourage us, as far as he was able.’ Mohamed then drew our
+attention to a young man who had entered the hut with him, but whom
+we had not before observed, and introduced him as a messenger sent
+to us by the Falàtah prince of Rabba. This man said that his
+master, named Mallam Dendo, had commissioned him to acquaint us,
+that he heartily concurred with the king of Nouffie in the
+favourable opinions and sentiments which the latter entertained for
+us. With respect to our visiting Rabba, which he understood we were
+very much disinclined to do, he should not urge us; and rather
+imagined that we should be more comfortable and enjoy greater
+tranquillity on an island on the opposite side of the river, where
+he would recommend us to stop. The chief of Belee had previously
+made us acquainted with this arrangement. The Falàtah messenger
+concluded by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>
+observing that we should be visited on the morrow by the ‘<em>King
+of the Dark Water!</em>’ who would escort us to the island in
+question, of which he is governor.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the chief of Belee made us a present of a
+quantity of goora nuts, a large pot of honey, a sheep, and dressed
+provisions in abundance, with a huge calabash of sour beer. He
+boasted that he was the king of Nouffie’s head slave, and a mighty
+man of valour; and artfully insinuated that he expected a present
+from us in proportion to his rank and eminence. But we have seen
+such numbers of kings, princes, and great men lately, that we are
+heartily disgusted with all who bear the epithet; they are so
+numerous, that they would be as difficult to count as the drops of
+rain in a heavy shower.</p>
+
+<p>The thermometer has been at 79°, 92°, and 94° during the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>The course of the river from Madjie to this island has been to
+the S.E., the distance about twelve miles. The eastern or Nouffie
+bank of the river is moderately high, and overspread with low
+hills, and both banks are well cultivated.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, October 7th.</em>—So early as five o’clock in the
+morning our canoes were loaded, and having breakfasted on a slice
+of yam, we were fully prepared to quit the island. But as it was
+not deemed either politic or proper to go away till the
+arrival<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span> of the
+great <em>King of the Dark Water</em>, who was hourly expected, and
+who might be inclined to construe our departure into contempt, we
+consented to await his coming. Though we have been exposed to a
+thousand nuisances, and all manner of inconveniences, and are
+pretty well reconciled to them all, yet rather than remain in a
+close black hut, full of men, whose garments are generally covered
+with vermin, and rarely, if ever, cleaned, and who make it a common
+practice to sit on the mat whereon we sleep; rather than do this,
+we stepped into our canoes, and having pushed off from the land, we
+waited the islander’s arrival under the branches of a large tree at
+a little distance from the town.</p>
+
+<p>Between nine and ten, <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, we heard a
+number of men singing, and keeping time to the motion of many
+paddles, but we could see no one. However, in a very few minutes, a
+canoe, which was paddled by a few men only, came in sight, and we
+knew by this that the Water King was approaching. It was instantly
+followed by another, and much larger one, propelled by above twenty
+very fine young men, whose voices we had been listening to just
+before, and who were still continuing their song. Their music was
+slower, but very similar to that which may be heard on many parts
+of the western coast. The <em>King of the Dark Water</em> was with
+them. As the canoe drew nearer<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_276">[276]</span> we were not only surprised at its
+extraordinary length and uncommon neatness, but likewise at the
+unusual display of pomp and show which we observed in her. In the
+centre a mat awning was erected, which was variously decorated, and
+on the front of it hung a large piece of scarlet cloth, ornamented
+with bits of gold lace stitched on different parts of it. In the
+bow of the canoe were three or four little boys, of equal size, who
+were clad with neatness and propriety; and in the stern sat a
+number of comely-looking musicians, consisting of several drummers
+and a trumpeter, whilst the young men who had the management of the
+boat were not inferior to their companions either in decency of
+apparel or respectability of appearance. They all looked in fact
+extremely well.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as this canoe arrived at the landing-place, the ‘Water
+King’ came out from beneath the awning, and, followed by the
+musicians and a suite of attendants, walked to the hut wherein all
+public matters are transacted, and whither, in a few minutes, we
+ourselves were desired to repair. The chief of the island, with his
+elders and the more respectable of the people, were seated, on our
+entrance, on each side of their important visitor, and my brother
+and I, as a mark of distinction, were invited to place ourselves in
+front of him. When the usual compliments had passed on
+both<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> sides, he
+informed us, with much solemnity, of his rank and title; he then
+alluded to the cause of his coming, which, he said, was to do us
+honour, and repeated what had previously been told us by the king’s
+son. This being done, he presented us with a pot of excellent
+honey, and two thousand cowries in money, besides a large quantity
+of goora nuts, which are cultivated in the country, and which are
+held in so great esteem, that the opulent and powerful alone have
+the means of procuring them. Having nothing further to say or do,
+we shook hands with his sable majesty, whose name is Suliken Rouah,
+expressed our acknowledgments for his handsome present, and
+returned to our boats.</p>
+
+<p>The ‘King of the Dark Water’ is a fine-looking man, well
+stricken in years; his skin as black as a coal; his features are
+coarse but benevolent, and his stature advantageous and commanding.
+He was dressed in a full bornouse, or Arab cloak, of inferior blue
+cloth, underneath which was a variegated tobe made of figured
+satin, country cloth and crimson silk damask, all patched together;
+he likewise wore a cap of red cloth, Hàussa trowsers, and sandals
+of coloured leather. Two pretty little boys, about ten years of age
+and of equal size, and who acted in capacity of pages, followed him
+into the hut. Their clothing was neat and becoming, and their
+persons nicely clean; each of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_278">[278]</span> them was furnished with an ornamented cow’s
+tail, and they stood one on his right hand and the other on his
+left, to brush away flies and other insects from his person, and
+supply him with goora nuts and tobacco. The king was also
+accompanied by six of his wives, fine handsome jet-black girls,
+dressed in neat country caps edged with red silk. Native cloths,
+made of cotton and silk, were fastened round their waists, beneath
+which they wore a sort of short frock. The usual custom of staining
+their fingers and toe-nails with henna appears to be general among
+them; their wrists were ornamented with neat silver bracelets, and
+their necks with coral necklaces.</p>
+
+<p>To such a man as the ‘Water King,’ with such a suite and such a
+title, the greatest honour is expected to be paid, and we therefore
+showed our respect by saluting him with a discharge from two or
+three muskets; and by waiting patiently his return from the
+council-hut, wherein he stayed two whole hours, during which we
+were sitting in our canoes, exposed to a very hot sun, for we had
+removed them from under the tree by the side of his own.</p>
+
+<p>It was exactly mid-day when Suliken Rouah re-embarked in his
+princely canoe, and quitted the island of Belee. Determined for
+once to make an attempt at a more respectable appearance, for
+heretofore it had been extremely mean and homely,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span> we hastily constructed an
+awning of our sheets. It was the first time we had made use of such
+a thing, though we are without umbrellas, and till then had nothing
+but slight straw hats to protect our heads from the sun. Above the
+awning we elevated a slender staff, on the top of which we fastened
+our national colours, the union flag, which was kindly given us by
+a gentleman on the coast, who was commandant of Anamaboo. When
+unfurled and waving in the wind, it looked extremely pretty, and it
+made our hearts glow with pride and enthusiasm, as we looked on
+this solitary little banner. We thought it would be of service to
+us also if we made as gay an appearance as the king and his
+followers; and accordingly I put on an old naval uniform coat which
+I had with me for state occasions, and my brother also dressed
+himself in as grotesque and gaudy a manner as our resources would
+afford. Our eight attendants also put on new white Mahomedan tobes,
+so that our canoe, with its white awning surmounted by the union
+flag, our canoemen in new dresses, and ourselves appearing as
+officers, contributed not a little to the effect of the whole
+scene. ‘The august King of the Dark Water,’ with his retinue in
+twenty canoes, condescendingly gave us the precedence, and ours was
+the first that moved off from land, and led the way down the river
+towards Rabba.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span>For a little
+while we continued to take the lead, but the chief soon went before
+us, for two reasons: First, that he might have an opportunity of
+looking at us; and secondly, that we might have a fairer chance of
+seeing him in all his state, for which purpose he had placed
+himself outside his awning on an elevated and conspicuous seat.
+However he only wished to get a few yards before us, for his
+canoemen soon lifted their paddles out of the water, and the boat
+fell back to its former situation. This going before and falling
+behind was done repeatedly. The musicians in the large canoe
+performed merrily on their instruments, and about twenty persons
+now sung at intervals in recitative, keeping excellent time with
+their paddles.</p>
+
+<p>A brisk wind sprung up the river full in our faces, relieving us
+from the extreme heat of the weather, which was remarkably fine;
+the scene before us was very animating, and the whole of us were in
+high glee and spirits. Other canoes joined us; and never did the
+British flag lead so extraordinary a squadron. The ‘King of the
+Dark Water’ might be mistaken for a river god; and his wives now
+and then showing their pretty black faces from under the awning,
+cast many an arch look at us with their sparkling, jetty eyes. It
+was not long before our reverie was interrupted by a great noise
+from the adjacent land; and on turning we perceived the banks of
+an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span> island, called
+<em>Zagōzhi</em>, which were lined with numbers of people, admiring
+our flag, and watching us very earnestly, by which we guessed that
+this was the place of our destination. The island is so uncommonly
+low, that the houses and trees appeared as if they were standing in
+the water, as indeed many of them actually were. Here we arrived,
+and landed between one and two <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>,
+having enjoyed a pleasant excursion of eight or nine miles. Ours
+being the first canoe, before we landed on the island we waited for
+the king to precede us, and the moment he set his foot on shore, we
+fired a salute of four muskets and three pistols. Suliken Rouah was
+rather alarmed at this, and demanded whether we were going to make
+war on him. He was soon relieved from his fear, by being told it
+was an honour that we had been in the habit of paying to all the
+princes we had met in our travels; which he no sooner understood,
+than he expressed himself much gratified by our attention. Suliken
+Rouah went in person in quest of a dwelling-house, and led us to
+one of the best which the island affords; however, it is miserably
+bad; for, as the town is built on a marsh, every hut in it has the
+disadvantage, during the whole of the rainy season, of soft damp
+floors and uncomfortable roofs. Our own has positively pools of
+water springing up out of the ground, and on this we shall be
+obliged to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> sleep.
+The walls of the huts are built of mud from the river, strengthened
+and supported by wooden pillars and ribs of the same materials:
+however, these do not prevent them from cracking in a hundred
+different places; and large chinks, admitting wind and rain, may be
+observed in the wall of every hut. They all have, indeed,
+invariably, a very dirty and wretched appearance, though their
+inmates, generally speaking, are understood to be opulent, clean,
+and respectable. Having conducted us to our hut, the chief of the
+island shook hands very heartily with us, and assured us that we
+should want nothing. He soon provided us with doors of bamboo for
+our hut, and a number of mats to spread on the floor, which made it
+tolerably comfortable. In the evening, four large calabashes of
+stewed rice, with fowls and no less than ten gallons of
+<em>pitto</em> or country beer were sent us. About seven in the
+evening, messengers arrived from Rabba, to inform us that they
+should come early in the morning for the presents we intended for
+the chief. They said that the king would not put us to the trouble
+of going to see him, as the town is full of Arabs, whose begging
+propensities would be very inconvenient to us. I was much pleased
+with this intelligence, knowing very well the character of these
+Arabs; and I sent word back that I was much obliged to him, and
+should be still more so<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_283">[283]</span> if he would dispense with my going to the
+sansan or camp at a short distance from the town to visit the King
+of Nouffie.</p>
+
+<p><em>Rabba</em> is opposite Zagōzhi, and appears from hence, a
+distance of two miles, to be an immensely large, populous, and
+flourishing town. It is built on the slope of a gentle hill, and on
+a spot almost entirely bare of trees. The Niger, both yesterday and
+to-day, has flowed in a direction to the south of east.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span><a id=
+"c15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<p class="csum2">Stay at Zagōzhi — Presents sent to the Chiefs of
+Rabba — An old but troublesome acquaintance — Presents from the
+Kings of Nouffie and Rabba to the Travellers — Importunities of the
+King’s messengers — An Arab merchant — Policy of the Falátah Chief,
+Mallam Dendo, in securing the possession of his conquests — Former
+Expedition of the Falátahs against Funda — Rabba market — The King
+of Rabba discontented with his present — Consternation of the
+Travellers — Park’s tobe sent to him — Joy of the King on receiving
+it — Permission to proceed — Treacherous conduct of the King of
+Nouffie — The King of Rabba’s answer — Conversation among the
+Hàussa merchants — Mallam Dendo the former King of Rabba — His
+character — Rabba market — Island of Zagōzhi — The islanders expert
+canoemen — Manufactures of Zagōzhi — Promise of a canoe.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><em>Friday, October 8th.</em>—<span class=
+"sc">Mallam Dendo</span>, the cousin of Bello, we find is still
+living, but in a very old and feeble condition. He is besides
+nearly blind, and thinks he has not many more years to live. Being
+a cautious, peaceful old man, his chief concern is to establish his
+son as his successor, and fearing that there might be some dispute
+about it after his death, has already given up to him the reins of
+government. The usual form on these occasions will be observed, and
+is to take place on the first day of the new<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_285">[285]</span> moon. The son is to ride through all the
+streets of the town on his father’s white horse, preceded by all
+the principal people of Rabba, attended by trumpeters, &amp;c., and
+thus proclaimed king.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning, the messengers from the chiefs mentioned
+yesterday arrived, bringing with them two fine sheep and a great
+quantity of rice. They were accompanied by a messenger from the
+general, a Bornou man, with another sheep. We are obliged to accept
+of this latter much against our inclination, for it will cost us
+ten times its value, but it is a treat that we have not had since
+we left Yàoorie. It appears that we shall be required to give
+presents to nine persons before we shall get away from this
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Having prepared the presents, I collected the messengers and
+laid out before each of them those that were intended for their
+masters; they expressed themselves pleased with them, and assured
+us that their masters would be also. In order to make them some
+reward, and secure their good will, I gave something to each, and
+dismissed them. We also sent away Mohamed, his countryman and
+associate, the Nouffie guide, who had accompanied us hither all the
+way from Boossà. The presents we have made, consist of a handsome
+looking-glass, with a gilt frame, a pair of silver bracelets; a
+snuff-box, tobacco-pipe, knife, razor, two pair of scissors, four
+new shillings, and a<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_286">[286]</span> number of books on natural history, with
+plates. Besides these, we sent the King of Nouffie a pocket
+compass, and the Prince of Rabba a camera obscura, desiring each of
+the messengers to inform their sovereigns that the latter articles
+were invaluable, but that owing to the length of our journey, and
+the few things which were left us in consequence, we were compelled
+to part with them—only, however, till such time as we should return
+to the country again, when we hoped they would be given back to us,
+for a handsome present which we should bring for the purpose.
+Mohamed and the Falàtah messenger promised to return to Zagōzhi in
+a couple of days; but the Nouffie guide, a surly, ill-favoured, and
+dissatisfied man, has no wish to see us again, and therefore he
+will remain at home. The old ‘King of the Dark Water,’ and after
+him several of his people paid us a visit to-day, bringing with
+them an enormous quantity of bits of meat and pounded yam, boiled
+or stewed in palm oil, and abundance of less delicate provisions;
+and strong beer sufficient for a regiment of soldiers! A Hàussa
+interpreter followed in his train, so that we had no difficulty in
+understanding each other; but those who subsequently visited our
+dwelling were not quite so fortunate, and we could not comprehend a
+single word which they uttered. Having brought their offering of
+provisions and beer in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_287">[287]</span> huge pots and calabashes, and laid it at
+our feet, they wished very much to enter into conversation with us,
+and were much confused and disconcerted at our ignorance of the
+Nouffie language, and our apparent dulness of comprehension; at
+first, they stared at us in vacant astonishment, then looked at
+each other very cunningly, and afterwards looked into our faces
+again. Finding at length that either we could not, or would not,
+understand their words and gestures, they burst into a loud laugh
+and went away, leaving their pots and calabashes behind them. These
+men were extremely well dressed, and respectable in their
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p><em>Saturday, October 9th.</em>—This morning we were visited by
+two young men, Arabs from Rabba, who had come, they said, purposely
+and solely to pay their respects; but in reality, the object of
+their coming was very different from this, as shortly afterwards
+appeared. On their entrance into the yard of our hut, one of them,
+a little, short, disagreeable-looking man, uttering a sudden
+exclamation of joy, sprang forward, and clasped me with violence to
+his breast, kissing my shoulder, hands, head, cheeks, and beard
+with much eagerness, agreeably to the custom of his countrymen on
+such occasions, and also of the Israelites, as well as many other
+eastern nations; and having done this, he next proceeded to embrace
+my brother in the same rough hasty manner, but his<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span> compliments were equally as
+unexpected as they were unpleasant. The Arab, as may be supposed,
+was very eager to claim acquaintance with me, and to bring to my
+memory certain scenes which had taken place on my former journey
+through Hàussa. Having in some degree recovered from my surprise at
+his salutation, on looking at him more attentively, I recognized in
+him the very same individual that had been employed by Captain
+Clapperton, whom he had abused and cheated, and who was
+subsequently engaged by myself as guide from Kano. He is the person
+also that decamped with Captain Pearce’s sword, and a large sum of
+money in cowries, when I sent him back to Kano for the tent-poles,
+which he had forgotten till after he had been several miles on his
+journey, and since which time I had not seen him till to-day. His
+appearance is somewhat uncouth and remarkable; his figure is
+awkward and uncommonly diminutive; he has a most forbidding and
+intolerable squint; his mouth is turned awry; and he has a huge and
+unnatural excrescence jutting out from his chin, which adds not a
+little to the deformity of his countenance and appearance.
+Therefore it was not very pleasant to be embraced, and almost
+hugged to death, by such a man as this. His companion is a pale,
+handsome, and agreeable youth, and is different from the other; in
+our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> presence his
+behaviour was decent, and his manners rather timorous and reserved;
+and when the villany of his associate was exposed, he felt more
+abashed of the two. My brother instantly accused the fellow of his
+former infidelity, and told him he was surprised that he could have
+the impudence to visit and salute him in the manner he had done,
+after what had transpired between them. Instead of expressing his
+sorrow and contrition, the Arab made light of his offence, and
+endeavoured to laugh off the impression of it altogether; and then
+in the most abject manner begged everything he saw with so much
+importunity and selfishness, that we were out of all temper with
+the scoundrel, and I turned him out of the hut in disgust. However,
+he could not believe it possible that we were in earnest with him,
+and waited outside the door a long time, anxiously expecting an
+invitation to come in again. ‘O, it must be all in sport,’ said he;
+but at last we threatened to shoot him if he did not go about his
+business, and being apprehensive that we should put our threats
+into execution, he ran off as fast as he could. Before his
+dismissal, we gave his companion a few needles, and he took his
+leave in peace. The fellow’s excuse for leaving me in the manner he
+did, was, that Al Hadjee Salah, the late Captain Clapperton’s
+agent, had persuaded him, saying that I was going to
+travel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span> among
+Caffres who knew not Allah, and who would therefore murder him. He
+was frightened, he added; but it was easy to see that this was a
+mere excuse. His pretext for coming to us now, was, that Sceriffe
+Asman, who was going to his native country, Timbuctoo, had offered
+to convey letters for us, from whence they might be forwarded to
+Tripoli; and that he himself would call for them in the morning.
+This I hoped to prevent, by saying that we had neither letters to
+send, nor presents to give to Sceriffe, therefore we did not wish
+to see him.</p>
+
+<p>A great number of Arabs are at present residing in Rabba; they
+have come from various parts, and trade with the natives in red
+caps, trona, small looking-glasses of the most inferior
+description, red cloth, silk, &amp;c., which they bring chiefly
+from Fezzan. Among these Arabs is a famous Sheikh, who, we
+understand, will set out in a few days on a journey to Timbuctoo
+and other places.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sunday, Oct. 10th.</em>—Mohamed and the Falàtah messenger
+arrived at Zagōzhi in company this morning, in pursuance of their
+agreement. The former brought with him a fine sheep as a present
+from the Magīa, and Mallam Dendo sent a large pot of honey by the
+hands of the latter. Both princes, according to the account of
+their representatives, were mightily pleased with their<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span> respective presents, and
+expressed their acknowledgments in the warmest and most grateful
+terms; they repeated the encouraging promises which they had before
+held out with regard to our journey, and have commissioned the
+‘King of the Dark Water,’ under certain circumstances, to supply us
+with a commodious canoe, as excellent as our hearts can desire;
+strongly recommending us to enter into arrangements with him, and
+deliver our two Patàshie canoes, which are comparatively small and
+of little value, into his keeping till our departure from the
+country. A man is also to accompany us as far as the sea, to be our
+guide and interpreter on the voyage. This intelligence has made us
+quite easy in mind, and filled us with hope and joy, for, previous
+to the arrival of these men, our hearts misgave us that everything
+would not prosper well. They seem to have forgotten the presents we
+had bestowed on them as well as their masters, for they have been
+very pressing to-day in their solicitations for money and needles,
+so that I have gone so far as to cut my coat in pieces for them to
+make caps of the cloth. Mohamed, in particular, has been
+incessantly annoying us in this manner, and brought a fellow with
+him from Rabba, who, he wished us to believe, was the Magīa’s
+eldest son, merely for the purpose of exacting a present from us
+proportionate to his rank; but we saw through<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_292">[292]</span> his deceit in time to prevent our being
+taken in by him, and crushed it in its infancy.</p>
+
+<p>It is provoking to be continually tormented so, and after all to
+receive nothing for our pains and the sacrifices we make but
+discontent, black looks, and grumbling without end. These fellows,
+instead of paying their respects in the first place to the chief of
+the island, had come to us directly from the landing-place; and,
+because they had something of consequence to communicate to him, in
+which we ourselves were intimately concerned, after having remained
+in our company long enough to ascertain that they could extort
+nothing further from us, Mohamed who had come with them, declared
+that they were in a hurry to be gone, to make amends for their
+delay, and therefore boldly demanded two thousand cowries ‘to
+open,’ as he expressed it, or ‘clean out the mouth of the “Water
+King!”’ or else, he declared, no business whatever could be
+transacted with him; it was the only method, he added gravely, with
+which he was acquainted, of enticing him to speak on any subject of
+importance. We knew all the time that the fellow was endeavouring
+to deceive us; but seeing how much our success depended on keeping
+all these sort of gentlemen in good humour, and that our interest
+lay in being imposed on now and then, we complied with his request.
+Considering, after what<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_293">[293]</span> had passed, that Mohamed and his colleagues
+might embezzle this sum, which in fact they strove to do, we sent
+Paskoe along with them to the chief’s house. Both he and his people
+continue to show us every hospitality, and to treat us with all
+manner of respect and civility.</p>
+
+<p><em>Monday, Oct. 11th.</em>—<em>Ali</em>, the Arab, who, it will
+be recollected, introduced himself to our notice in Yàoorie, paid
+us a visit to-day from Rabba, where he has been residing some time
+past. We hardly knew him again at first, on account of his altered
+countenance, and the languid and emaciated appearance of his
+person, which, he tells us, has been the effect of sickness and
+anxiety, occasioned by an attack of the Guinea-worm, which had
+confined him within doors on his mat for three weeks. Instead of
+proceeding to Alorie in Yarriba, which it was his intention of
+doing, he had changed his mind suddenly, and had come to Rabba,
+where he was at first courteously received and entertained. The
+horses which he had in his possession belonged to the good old
+Gadado of Soccatoo, by whom he was commissioned to sell them to the
+highest bidder. These animals were exceedingly large, handsome, and
+spirited, so much so indeed, that the prince of the Falàtahs took a
+great fancy to them, and purchased them, at an extravagant price,
+very shortly after they had been first exhibited in public
+by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span> Ali. But not
+having money sufficient at his disposal at the time, Mallam Dendo
+promised to give the value of the animals partly in cowries and
+partly in handsome tobes of native manufacture, which the seller
+agreed to receive as willingly. He has, however, been detained here
+ever since, and to the present time has been put off day after day
+with empty promises. Ali does not think that this procrastination
+proceeds from any dishonest feeling on the part of the prince of
+the Falàtahs, but that it is really from want of the means of
+paying him, owing to the expenses attending several warlike
+expeditions in which he has been recently engaged.</p>
+
+<p>Such, generally speaking, is the manner of trading in this
+country, a few years’ credit being thought very little of; and it
+is not unusual to meet with individuals who have been unable to
+obtain payment of debts for ten or a dozen years at least.</p>
+
+<p>We had a long chat with Ali, and gave him a few old things which
+were useless to us; but we soon found it necessary to send him
+away, as he began complaining very grievously of poverty and
+wretchedness.</p>
+
+<p>The Arab, in course of conversation, remarked, that it would be
+a good speculation to send some needles for sale at the Rabba
+market, which is extremely large and well attended; therefore, we
+took the hint, and sent Jowdie and Ibrahim, two<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span> of our men, with a certain
+quantity to dispose of, and they both returned in the evening with
+the fruits of their success, having obtained the sum of eight
+thousand cowries for them. This has given us fresh spirits again,
+for we had not a single cowrie to give to our men. The inhabitants
+of Rabba purchased them very eagerly, at from fifteen to thirty
+cowries each needle, and they were anxious to get more, when they
+found that our men had disposed of the whole.</p>
+
+<p>It has been the policy of Mallam Dendo, who, by all accounts, is
+an able and crafty chief, and a courageous man, to advance
+foreigners of all nations to certain lucrative and important posts,
+either about his person, in the army, or as governors of conquered
+towns; and by this means he conciliates, in a great measure, the
+black, or original population of the country, confirms his
+reputation, and establishes his sovereignty with little trouble
+over lands and districts which he may have subjugated and added to
+his dominions. It appears that the prince of Rabba is wholly
+independent of Bello, the sultan of Soccatoo, or at most that he
+pays only a nominal allegiance to that monarch, though an amicable
+intercourse is constantly kept up between them.</p>
+
+<p>Mallam Dendo lately planned an expedition against the kingdom of
+Funda, which was instantly carried into execution, though former
+enterprises<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span> of the
+kind had uniformly terminated in confusion and defeat. This also
+was a complete failure; for as his soldiers were drawing near the
+city of Funda, as the story goes, and had attained an eminence for
+the purpose of reconnoitring the surrounding country, they saw, or
+thought they saw, to their infinite amazement, a large army coming
+out to meet them, and all the soldiers armed with muskets, and
+clothed after the manner of foreigners in blue and white dresses.
+This put them all in a consternation; and without stopping to look
+behind them, they fled with the utmost speed, and returned to their
+own homes without accomplishing anything. Here they attempted to
+vindicate their cowardice by telling their countrymen a very
+marvellous story of their having encountered an army of white men,
+whose formidable equipments and warlike appearance had made their
+hearts droop within them, and they had fled. In allusion to this
+story, Mallam Dendo asked Paskoe, in confidence, yesterday, whether
+he did not think that many of our countrymen were assisting their
+adversaries?</p>
+
+<p>Mallam Dendo, it is said, can send one thousand horse soldiers,
+well equipped and mounted on noble animals, to the field; and the
+number of foot soldiers he has at his command is so great, that it
+is not known. All runaway<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_297">[297]</span> slaves are encouraged to join the ranks on
+condition of receiving their freedom; and they are joined by a vast
+number from the surrounding country. The natives are commanded by
+captains from among their own countrymen, and the Falàtahs also by
+theirs; the greatest good-will prevails among them, and we have
+nowhere observed quarrelling of any kind.</p>
+
+<p>The Falàtahs are now in possession of the whole of Nouffie,
+Ederesa having relinquished his claim, as he had been deserted by
+the greater part of his troops, who joined the army of Mallam
+Dendo. Both the Magīa and Ederesa have little or no authority. The
+Falàtah prince has sent his messengers, both by land and water, to
+collect the taxes and tributes throughout the country of Nouffie,
+which were last year paid to Ederesa. Yarriba will soon follow the
+condition of Nouffie, and the Falàtahs, in the course of a few
+years, will reach the sea. An idea of their character may be formed
+from their usual boast, that they could conquer the whole world if
+the salt water did not prevent them.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, Oct. 12th.</em>—As we have already said, Rabba
+market is very celebrated, and considered by traders as one of the
+largest and best in the whole country, of which it may be styled
+the emporium; a variety of articles, both of native and foreign
+manufacture, are there offered for sale;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_298">[298]</span> and it is generally well supplied with
+slaves of both sexes. Yesterday, one of our men counted between one
+and two hundred men, women, and children, who were all exposed for
+sale in ranks or lines. These poor creatures have, for the most
+part, been captured in war; and, it is said, that the Falàtahs
+rarely treat them with unkindness, and never with brutality. The
+price of a strong, healthy lad is about forty thousand cowries
+(8<em>l.</em> sterling); a girl fetches as much as fifty thousand,
+and perhaps more if she be at all interesting; and the value of men
+and women varies according to their age and abilities. Slaves are
+sometimes purchased at Rabba by people inhabiting a country
+situated a good way down the Niger, and from thence they are
+delivered from hand to hand till they at length reach the sea.
+Ivory is likewise sold, most likely to the same individuals, and
+large tusks may be purchased at a thousand cowries each, and
+occasionally at a much cheaper rate. We have eleven elephants’
+tusks of our own, which were presented to us by the kings of Wowow
+and Boussà, but we have been unable to dispose of them at Rabba
+because no strangers are at present in the city.</p>
+
+<p>All the principal inhabitants of Rabba are complaining bitterly
+of the want of money, and the peculiar hardness of the times.
+Formerly, they say, it was not so; and they ascribe their
+present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> poverty and
+embarrassments to their late reverses in war, and misfortunes at
+home. Their recent unsuccessful attack on the <em>Cumbrie</em>
+people, who reside in the province of Engaskie, near Yàoorie, and
+which we have alluded to in our visit to that country, has quite
+humiliated and disheartened them. To be outwitted and overthrown by
+the unwarlike Cumbrie, who are considered as a despicable race by
+all people, and to have lost so many men and horses in that
+expedition, have been a source of great mortification to their
+vanity, and derogation of their high name. In order to redeem their
+national character from the stain which it has thus received, and
+to restore the reputation for bravery and resolution which had
+before so eminently distinguished them from their neighbours, but
+which is now so deeply tarnished, the Falàtahs at Rabba are
+actively employed in hastening preparations for the invasion of
+Yarriba; and are resolved, it is reported, to set out in a very few
+days for Katunga, the capital, which is to be their first object of
+attack. They anticipate success, without the dread of opposition;
+and they already boast of acquisitions which they have not yet
+gained, and exult in the thoughts of the splendour and opulence
+they shall enjoy in cities which they have not yet seen. Our old
+friend, the monarch of Yarriba, on his part, has been put on his
+guard,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span> and is, we
+hear, determined to resist any hostile attempt which may be made
+against his country.</p>
+
+<p>Mallam Dendo sent for Paskoe this morning in a great hurry, with
+a message, that he was waiting impatiently his arrival at Rabba,
+having something of the utmost consequence to communicate. As may
+easily be conjectured, we were rather surprised at this unexpected
+summons, and waited Paskoe’s return with much anxiety, for we had
+no doubt whatever that we were principally concerned in it. When,
+however, he <em>did</em> come back, and enter our hut, he looked
+very wistfully, and informed us, with considerable agitation both
+of voice and manner, that Mallam Dendo had expressed to him the
+greatest dissatisfaction at the things which he had received from
+us as a present, declaring them to be perfectly worthless, and,
+with the exception of the looking-glass, ‘fit only for a child!’
+that he well knew we could have sent him something more useful and
+of greater value, if we had thought proper; but that if we
+persisted in our refusal to do so, he should demand of us our guns,
+pistols, and powder, before he would consent or permit us to leave
+Zagōzhi. This news made us very uneasy and unhappy, and we sat down
+in gloom and thoughtfulness without uttering a word, for we
+believed this to be a death-blow to all our hopes. To part with the
+only defensive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span>
+weapons in our possession, we felt determined not to do; it brought
+to our recollection the fable of the lion deprived of his teeth and
+claws. We knew that if we were to be deprived of these, we should
+be entirely in the power of a set of fellows who are remarkable
+neither for generosity nor nobleness of principle, without the
+means of helping ourselves; and we resolved never to part with our
+guns unless compelled to do so by force or from the most urgent
+necessity. Having reflected deliberately on our situation, we felt
+convinced that something on our part must be done, by way of
+conciliation, if we had any intention of quitting the country, and
+of prosecuting our enterprise. The chief also wanted to know why we
+had not gone to Sansam to see the Magīa, having been only five
+days’ journey from him when at Yàoorie, and added, that one of us
+must go immediately. We were much hurt, and pointed out to the
+messenger our only box of presents, and told him it was all we
+possessed to last us to the sea, adding, that if we were to give
+his master more, we should have nothing left to obtain us even food
+on our voyage. At this moment we thought of Mr. Park’s tobe, which
+was given to us by the king of Boossà; and thought, that as it was
+the only thing which we had to offer, it <em>might</em> in
+consequence of the splendour of its appearance, and its intrinsic
+value, prove an acceptable present<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_302">[302]</span> to the covetous prince, and we fondly hoped
+that it might be the means of a perfect reconciliation on both
+sides: therefore, under these considerations, we immediately
+dispatched Ibrahim with it to Rabba, though our hearts misgave us
+at the time, that it would after all be thought lightly of, as an
+excuse for further extortions. Of course, we deeply lamented the
+necessity to which we were reduced on parting with this curiosity,
+but it was inevitable. We sent word by Ibrahim also, that having no
+good presents to give him was the reason I had not visited Bello
+when we were at Yàoorie, and that I declined doing so for the same
+reasons now. Our plan was to make friends with the Rabba chief, and
+this we have some hopes the tobe we have just sent to him will
+effect.</p>
+
+<p>In less than two hours after his departure, Ibrahim returned
+from his errand with a quick step and cheerful looks, and informed
+us, that the tobe was accepted by the prince with rapturous
+admiration. By this present we had made him our friend for ever; he
+regretted that the Falàtahs had no canoes, but were they possessed
+of any, he would make us a present of as many as we might want, and
+accelerate our departure from Zagōzhi with all his influence. ‘Ask
+the white men,’ said he, ‘what they would desire, and if Rabba can
+supply them with it, tell them they shall always have
+it.’<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span> ‘Well!’ he
+continued, ‘I must purchase this tobe; I will not accept it as a
+gift,—that would be against my principles, and besides it would be
+wrong for me to be guilty of such injustice. Now I shall be
+something like a king,’ he added, turning the tobe inside and out;
+‘let no man know of it; my neighbours will behold me with envy; and
+as for my own people, I will surprise them some morning by putting
+it on when they are going to war; it will dazzle their eyes. How
+great will be their astonishment!’ In this manner the prince of the
+Falàtahs talked to Ibrahim. We hardly know what conclusion to draw
+from it, but rather imagine that this present of the tobe will in
+the end be advantageous to our interests, though we very much
+regret its loss. Our man has been desired to visit Rabba again
+to-morrow, when a present of some kind will be sent us as an
+acknowledgment, for such is the custom of the country.</p>
+
+<p><em>Wednesday, October 13th.</em>—In pursuance of the chief’s
+arrangement, we sent Ibrahim and Paskoe to him this morning. He
+received them with civility, said he was highly pleased at their
+coming, and wished to know in what manner he could best express his
+acknowledgments to us for the present we had made him, which he
+termed a ‘princely gift,’ promising to make us all the return for
+it in his power, by forwarding our<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_304">[304]</span> departure, and assisting us in the object
+of our visit as much as he was able. Paskoe, who had previously
+been tutored by us, and who is not deficient in sagacity, made
+answer, and said, that our first wish, and the one which he
+believed we were most anxious about, was to obtain a large canoe,
+and pursue our journey on the Niger as fast as possible; that as we
+had little money, and but few presents, and as the ‘King of the
+Dark Water’ had refused to exchange a canoe of the above
+description, for those which we had obtained at Patàshie, unless we
+would consent to pay him ten thousand cowries, we should be obliged
+to him to settle that little affair to our satisfaction, otherwise
+he said we should be embarrassed with insuperable difficulties. And
+that if the prince of Rabba approved of it, a few mats, tobes, or
+sandals, would be highly acceptable; and would be considered by us
+as a sufficient remuneration for the presents we had made him. This
+answer pleased the prince, and he cheerfully agreed to the whole of
+Paskoe’s propositions. He then went out and procured a bundle of
+the handsomest-coloured mats, for the manufacture of which Rabba is
+famous, and came back, and delivered them into the hands of Paskoe
+as an offering to us, with two large bags of rice, and a bunch of
+plantains. He gave Ibrahim also a handsome tobe and cap for
+himself; and promised to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_305">[305]</span> send a messenger to the <em>King of the
+Dark Water</em> to settle the business of the canoe, by whom he
+would likewise send valuable tobes, to be worn by my brother and
+myself. He then presented Paskoe with a thousand cowries; and he
+returned with Ibrahim to Zagōzhi, quite overjoyed with success.</p>
+
+<p>A foot messenger from the King of Nouffie arrived at Rabba in
+the morning. His sovereign had despatched him privately to Mallam
+Dendo, with an insinuation to him, ‘that if it met with his
+approbation, he (the Magīa) would order us to be detained at
+Zagōzhi until we should consent to make him a present of a certain
+number of dollars, or something equivalent to them in value; that
+he disbelieved the story of our poverty altogether, and would
+therefore search our luggage, in order to discover whether our
+assertion was true or false, that we had no greater presents to
+make.’ So much dissimulation, meanness and rapacity, which this
+trait in his character exhibits, we had little reason to expect
+from the King of Nouffie, after expressing for us, so warmly and
+repeatedly as he has done, protestations of the most cordial,
+candid, and lasting friendship. We could not forbear feeling very
+indignant at this foul breach of the laws of hospitality and good
+faith, which we had experienced in every part of the country
+previous to this. Perhaps it was well that we had presented the
+prince of Rabba with Mr.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_306">[306]</span> Park’s tobe, for he treated the message and
+its bearer with contempt, and answered energetically: ‘Tell the
+Magīa, your sovereign, that I would rebuke him for this expression
+of his sentiments; that I detest his base insinuations; that I will
+never consent to his wishes; and that I reject his proposal with
+disdain. What! shall the white men, who have come from such distant
+lands to visit our country, who have spent their substance among
+us, and made us presents, before we had leisure to do any good for
+them, shall they be treated so inhumanly? Never! They have worn
+their shoes from their feet, and their clothes from their persons,
+by the length and tediousness of their journeys; they have thrown
+themselves into our hands, to claim our protection and partake of
+our hospitality; shall we treat them then as robbers, and cast them
+from us like dogs? Surely not. What would our neighbours,—what
+would our friends—our foes, say to this? What could be a greater
+reproach than the infamy which would attach itself to our
+characters, and to our name, should we treat these poor,
+unprotected, wandering strangers, and white men, too, in the manner
+your monarch, the King of Nouffie, proposes? After they have been
+received and entertained with so much hospitality and honour in
+Yarriba, at Wowow, and at Boossà, shall it be said that Rabba
+treated them badly; that she shut her doors upon<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span> them, and plundered them? No,
+never! I have already given my word to protect them, and I will not
+forfeit that sacred pledge for all the guns and swords in the
+world.’ Such was the answer which the King of Nouffie’s messenger
+received from the Falàtah chieftain. Surely it was worthy of a
+prince.</p>
+
+<p>Our men saw and conversed with this Nouffie messenger, who had
+made no secret of his errand, and the above answer was related to
+Paskoe by the prince of the Falàtahs himself.</p>
+
+<p>The imbecility of the Magīa, and his want of power, are
+strikingly apparent; he exercises a nominal authority only over his
+people, Mallam Dendo being evidently the ruling monarch of the
+whole kingdom of Nouffie. The former never enters into any public
+undertaking, without consulting the Falàtah ruler, and first
+obtaining his consent to the measure, be it urgent or
+otherwise.</p>
+
+<p>Several Hàussa merchants arrived at Rabba this morning, with a
+number of fine horses for sale. As soon as they entered the town,
+they went to pay their respects to the prince, when Paskoe happened
+to be in his company, and they conversed together in the Falàtah
+language, not thinking for a moment that it could be understood by
+him. In allusion to us, for we are generally brought on the
+<em>tapis</em> on such occasions, they spoke very much in our
+praise, mentioned Captain<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_308">[308]</span> Clapperton, ‘the unfortunate Abdallah,’ in
+terms of the highest admiration, and had seen with wonder the
+splendid and curious presents which he had made to Sultan Bello at
+Soccatoo. ‘I know the white men, too,’ said the prince, ‘they are
+good men; in fact I have reason to speak well of them, for I also
+am a white man, and therefore I am of opinion that they are of the
+same blood as ourselves.’ It is in this manner that Falàtahs
+endeavour to claim relationship with Europeans, though these people
+are either of a swarthy complexion, or black as soot; and this
+passion to be considered fair is often carried to a most ridiculous
+height. White men, how sorry soever their outward appearance may
+be, are certainly considered, not only by Falàtahs, but by the
+native blacks, as a superior order of beings, in all respects more
+excellent than themselves. At Yàoorie we recollect having overheard
+a conversation between two men, who were quarrelling in the very
+height of passion. ‘What!’ exclaimed one of them to his fellow,
+‘thou pitiful son of a black ant! dost thou presume to say that a
+horse was my father? Look at these Christians! for as they are, I
+am; and such were my ancestors; answer me not, I say, for I am a
+white man!’ The speaker was a Negro, and his skin was the colour of
+charcoal.</p>
+
+<p><em>Thursday, October 14th.</em>—It is time that our<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span> journey should be completed,
+for our goods are very nearly exhausted; and so far from being in a
+condition to make further presents, our means will scarcely be
+adequate to procure the bare necessaries of life. Our stock of
+cloth, looking-glasses, snuff-boxes, knives, scissors, razors, and
+tobacco-pipes, has already been given away, and we have only
+needles and a few silver bracelets left to present to the chiefs
+whom we may reasonably expect to fall in with on our voyage down
+the Niger. Henceforward we must endeavour to shun as many large
+towns on the banks of the river, as we may venture to do with
+safety. In order to obtain a little money, in addition to what we
+have already been enabled to procure from the sale of a quantity of
+needles, both for present use and future convenience, I sent my
+watch this afternoon to the Falàtah general, who is the Bornouese
+that made us a present a day or two ago, and he agreed to purchase
+it for the sum of sixty thousand cowries; but having the misfortune
+to let it fall shortly afterwards, as he was in the act of mounting
+his horse, the glass was broken by the accident, and it was so much
+damaged outwardly, that its beauty of appearance is entirely
+destroyed. It was returned to us towards evening, with a present of
+a bunch of plantains and a beautiful leopard’s skin, as a
+remuneration<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> for
+the injury which it had sustained, but without sending any apology,
+or the most distant allusion to the accident! The watch, however,
+still <em>ticked</em>, and the brightness of its inner case was
+untarnished, therefore we sent it over instantly to Mallam Dendo,
+who received it with eagerness, and purchased it on the spot for a
+large sum of money, which he has promised to pay us to-morrow, and
+Paskoe has accordingly left it in his hands.</p>
+
+<p>The story which we heard when at Yàoorie, relative to the
+decease of old Mallam Dendo, father of the present prince of the
+Falàtahs, was not true, as that individual is still alive. But the
+rumour we suppose to have originated from the old chief’s
+abdication in favour of his son, which took place at the time, and
+his relinquishment of all public business in consequence of that
+resolution, though it is said that he still influences his son’s
+conduct in all private as well as public concerns. He now sits, as
+the Arabs tell us, in one position every day from morning till
+night, with three large calabashes around him, one of which is kept
+constantly filled with <em>tuah</em>, another with cowries, and a
+third with goora nuts; and he revels in the delights which these
+calabashes afford him all day long. He has the reputation also, now
+that he is become old, of being both a miser and a<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span> glutton. He receives but few
+visiters, and those are of a particular description, with whom
+acquaintance has made him familiar, and whose company, equality of
+age, and a similarity in tastes and inclinations, have rendered
+desirable. These friends are at liberty to eat a handful of
+<em>tuah</em>, or chew a goora nut in his company, whenever they
+please. Old Mallam Dendo is considered a very eccentric character
+by all those who have either seen or heard of him, and his singular
+manner of living is the common theme of conversation among all
+ranks. His son is said to inherit none of his father’s foibles or
+propensities; he is revered as a leader, and beloved as a man,
+though the Arabs do not speak well of his consistency. For some
+reason, the report of the old man’s death is industriously
+propagated.</p>
+
+<p><em>Friday, October 15th.</em>—We are generally awakened every
+morning at day-break, and on particular occasions long before the
+sun rises, with the noise of the grinding of corn and the loud
+cheerful singing which accompanies it from the females engaged in
+that laborious occupation, for females only are employed in it. The
+same custom prevails in Yarriba, in Borgoo, and at Yàoorie, and in
+fact throughout the whole of western, central, and northern Africa,
+as far as we can learn. Instead of the mill formerly used in Judea,
+and in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span> all eastern
+countries, with its handle of wood or iron in the rim, the people
+here simply employ two large stones, flat and smooth, with the
+uppermost of which they rub the grain till it becomes sufficiently
+fine. Perhaps this is a more ancient, as it is a more simple
+contrivance, than the corn-mills used by the females of the east,
+to which it is greatly inferior. However, Dr. Clarke, the
+traveller, is of opinion, that the former ‘are the primeval mills
+of the world,’ and he also says, that ‘they are still found in all
+corn countries where rude and ancient customs have not been liable
+to those changes introduced by refinement.’</p>
+
+<p><em>Rabba</em>, which has before been alluded to, appears from
+Zagōzhi to be a considerably large, neat, clean, and well-built
+town, though it is unwalled, and is not otherwise fenced. It is
+irregularly built on the slope of a gently-rising hill, at the foot
+of which runs the Niger; and in point of rank, population, and
+wealth, it is the second city in the Falàtah dominions, Soccatoo
+alone being considered as its superior. It is inhabited by a mixed
+population of Falàtahs, Noufanchie, and emigrants and slaves from
+various countries, and is governed by a ruler who exercises
+sovereign authority over Rabba and its dependencies, and is styled
+Sultan or King. The regal power is despotic, though exercised with
+mildness, and the succession<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_313">[313]</span> hereditary. The Arabs and all strangers
+have an enclosure of dwellings to themselves, which is in the
+suburbs of the town. Rabba is famous for milk, oil, and honey. The
+market, when our messengers were there, appeared to be well
+supplied with bullocks, horses, mules, asses, sheep, goats, and
+abundance of poultry. Rice and various sorts of corn, cotton,
+cloth, indigo, saddles and bridles made of red and yellow leather,
+besides shoes, boots, and sandals, were offered for sale in great
+plenty. Although they observed about two hundred slaves for sale,
+none had been disposed of when they left the market in the evening.
+The inhabitants grow abundance of corn and rice, and other
+productions common to the neighbouring countries, and they
+cultivate the plantain shrub with success. They possess large
+flocks and herds of the finest description, and their horned cattle
+are remarkable for their size and beauty. They have also a
+prodigious number of excellent horses, of which they take the
+greatest care, and they are universally admired for their strength
+and elegant proportions. These animals are used only for war,
+recreation, and in travelling. It is the pride and pleasure of the
+higher classes to dress well, and display their persons and their
+horsemanship to advantage, and it is gratifying to witness the
+grace and dexterity with which they preserve their command over
+these beautiful creatures. In the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_314">[314]</span> management of their horses, they are
+perhaps not inferior to the Arabs, from whom they have, in all
+probability, derived most of their lessons in the art. Rabba is not
+very famous for the number or variety of its artificers, and yet in
+the manufacture of mats and sandals they are unrivalled. However in
+all other handicrafts Rabba yields to Zagōzhi.</p>
+
+<p><em>Zagōzhi</em>, situated as it is, directly opposite Rabba,
+participates in many of its advantages, though still it has various
+inconveniences peculiar to itself. The town is built on a bog, for
+such it appears to us, and it lies so close to the water, that in
+fact hundreds of huts are literally standing in it. So little
+regard do the people appear to have for what is termed comfort,
+that they suffer the walls of their dwellings either to fall to
+pieces, or permit large chinks and holes to remain in them, which
+freely admit the wind and rain; while the floors, which are made of
+earth or clay, are so soft and damp, that a slender stick may
+easily be thrust into them by the hand to any depth. Our own is of
+this description. In so moist a situation as this, it may readily
+be supposed the air in the night season is illuminated with
+fire-flies. The huts of the natives are infested with mosquitoes
+and other more disgusting insects, which abound indeed in millions.
+When the Niger subsides, and leaves Zagōzhi exposed with all its
+dirt to the influence<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_315">[315]</span> of the sun, the noxious vapours and
+exhalations with which the air must of necessity be impregnated,
+will render it no doubt very insalubrious; but at present the
+inhabitants make few or no complaints.</p>
+
+<p>In their huts the people exhibit no very favourable specimens of
+taste or cleanliness; and in this respect, certainly, they are
+greatly inferior to their neighbours on the other side of the
+river. However, in their persons they are by no means so negligent,
+for they always appear extremely well dressed; and we have rarely
+met with so large a number of tall, handsome, well-formed men and
+comely women, as in this place.</p>
+
+<p>The care which the Falàtah bestows, and the pride which he takes
+in his horse, are employed and indulged by the inhabitants of
+Zagōzhi in an equal proportion in their canoes; the Niger is
+covered with these little vessels, and to be skilful in the
+management of them is their greatest boast. The chief of the island
+has about six hundred canoes, all of which will be employed, when
+the young Mallam Dendo is proclaimed king, in conveying the Falàtah
+troops across the river on their expedition into Yarriba. They are
+fond of aquatic occupations, even to a passion, and carry them to
+excess. All the trade by water in these parts is in their hands,
+and they are proprietors of the ferry to and from Rabba, which is a
+source of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span>
+considerable emolument to those engaged in this speculation. They
+are also excellent fishermen, and, in fact, the population of
+Zagōzhi are almost amphibious, so prone are they to be perpetually
+sporting in bogs or dabbling in water. But they do not confine
+themselves all the year round entirely to the river, for they
+cultivate the soil as well, and, like their countrymen of Nouffie,
+in the manufacture of various articles they evince considerable
+ingenuity and expertness. The cloth which they manufacture in
+common with their countrymen, and the tobes and trowsers which they
+make, are most excellent, and would not disgrace an European
+manufactory; they are worn and valued by kings, chiefs, and great
+men, and are the admiration of the neighbouring nations, which
+vainly attempt to imitate them. We have also seen a variety of
+caps, which are worn solely by females, and made of cotton
+interwoven with silk, of the most exquisite workmanship. The people
+here are uncommonly industrious, be they males or females, and are
+always busy either in culinary, or other domestic occupations.</p>
+
+<p>In our walks we see groups of people employed in spinning cotton
+and silk; others in making wooden bowls and dishes, mats of various
+patterns, shoes, sandals, cotton dresses and caps, and the like;
+others busily occupied in fashioning brass and iron stirrups, bits
+for bridles, hoes, chains,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_317">[317]</span> fetters, &amp;c.; and others again employed
+in making saddles and horse accoutrements. These various articles,
+which are intended for the Rabba market, evince considerable taste
+and ingenuity in their execution.</p>
+
+<p>We have not seen a single public amusement since we have been
+among them. In this respect they are an example to their
+neighbours. They seem quite independent of all authority and above
+all restraint, except that of the legitimate <em>King of the Dark
+Water</em>, and their own interests induce them to obey him alone.
+They care as little for the Falàtahs as the Falàtahs for them; the
+peculiarity of their situation renders them secure from foreign
+invasion, and insensible to the calamities and distresses which
+overwhelm the natives of many parts of the continent. They have
+liberty stamped on their features, and lightness and activity, so
+rarely to be seen in this country of sluggards, are observable in
+all their actions. The generality of the people are well-behaved;
+they are hospitable and obliging to strangers; they dwell in amity
+with their neighbours, and live in unity, peace, and social
+intercourse with themselves; they are made bold by freedom,
+affluent by industry and frugality, healthy by exercise and labour,
+and happy from a combination of all these blessings.</p>
+
+<p>The population of Zagōzhi cannot well be estimated, on account
+of its lowness and the prevailing<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_318">[318]</span> flatness of the country round, on which
+neither a hillock nor eminence of any kind can be discerned.
+However, it must be immense; and we consider it to be one of the
+most extensive and thickly inhabited towns, as well as one of the
+most important trading places in the whole kingdom of Nouffie, not
+excepting even Coulfo. According to our estimation the island may
+be about fifteen miles long and three in breadth, but the greater
+part of it is now nearly overflowed. Notwithstanding this, the
+natives appear to enjoy good health.</p>
+
+<p>Novelties, however trifling, attract the notice of the people of
+Rabba, as glittering baubles excite the attention of a child; and
+as children, too, become tired of their plaything a few moments
+only after it is put into their hands, so do they throw aside in
+disgust, when it ceases to be a novelty, that which they would have
+given half their substance to obtain a few seconds before it
+actually became their own. They are</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Pleased with a feather, tickled with a
+straw.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">The prince of the Falàtahs is already tired of my
+watch, which he purchased yesterday, and he returned it this
+afternoon, with all its machinery broken; and, like the Bornouese
+soldier, without making any acknowledgment for his carelessness.
+However, we <em>have received permission to quit Zagōzhi to-morrow
+morning, to pursue our journey<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_319">[319]</span> down the Niger</em>; and though all the
+promises of the Magīa have terminated in nothing—though a Nouffie
+guide has been denied us—and though it is likely that we shall be
+perplexed with a thousand difficulties, yet we are in high spirits
+and great good humour at the thoughts of our release, for we know
+that we shall go our way with alacrity and confidence.</p>
+
+<p>We have been busily employed in packing up and making
+preparations for our departure from Zagōzhi to-morrow morning. We
+are in hopes of having no difficulties about the canoe, and are
+desirous of obtaining one that will hold all of our party, as it
+will be a much more satisfactory arrangement for us, and more
+convenient than two small ones. The chief of the island visited us
+in the morning, and promised to send a messenger with us as far as
+<em>Egga</em>, on the banks of the river. This is the last town, we
+are told, down the river belonging to the Nouffie territory, and
+its distance from hence is said to be four days’ journey. He tells
+us also, that the river is quite safe, according to the reports of
+the Nouffie people who trade between this place and Egga.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon, the chief was unwilling to part with a canoe
+under any consideration, yet, as a token of his friendship and
+regard, he has offered to spare us one for twenty thousand cowries!
+in addition to our own which we brought from Patàshie<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span> island. A messenger from the
+prince of Rabba arrived here just after this proposition was made
+us, with full powers to treat with the Water King for our canoe. ‘I
+will see,’ said the man, ‘whether I can make him comply with your
+wishes or not; he will not show me any of his airs, I am sure.’
+This messenger brought with him a large bag of rice as a present
+from Mallam Dendo, who desired him to inform us, that ‘he wished us
+well, and should be most happy to hear of our return to the country
+by way of the Niger.’ As soon as he had delivered his message to
+us, he repaired to the dwelling of the Zagōzhi chief, and returned
+to us from his errand shortly afterwards, with the intelligence of
+his having succeeded in obtaining the long-talked-of canoe, which
+would be in readiness to receive us on board at an early hour
+to-morrow. This has removed a great weight from our minds.</p>
+
+<p>Last night my brother was troubled and terrified in his sleep by
+a frightful dream of scorpions, and, to his astonishment, when he
+awoke this morning, he discovered one of those reptiles on his mat,
+which he had crushed to death in his sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The ‘Dark Water King’ has been informed of our poverty, we
+believe, and his goodness is declining very perceptibly in
+consequence. Nor do his people, we are sorry to say, regard us with
+the same respect and partiality as formerly, nor<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span> treat us with as much beer as
+they did. Doubtless they have imbibed a similar notion, that the
+white men are poor, and <em>their</em> kindness and goodnature are
+also fast dwindling away. Perhaps all this is natural: even from
+our friends and relations, hospitality and tenderness do not, under
+such circumstances, last for ever. It is true the natives have
+pitied us; but pity is composed of sorrow and contempt; and here,
+as in more polished countries, we have found it to be unsubstantial
+and fleeting. After the first gush of feeling, the tear of
+compassion gives place to the frigid indifference of contempt. To
+be pitied is to be despised. Such is the case here, and such is the
+way of the world.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width10">
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced13 space-above2"><span class=
+"small">LONDON:</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">Printed by <span class="sc">William
+Clowes</span>,<br>
+Stamford Street.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
+"label">[1]</span></a><em>Mesr</em>, as the Arabs pronounce the
+word, is the <em>Cairo</em> of Europeans.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
+"label">[2]</span></a>The same as <em>Comie</em> in the map.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
+"label">[3]</span></a>This is most probably the Songa of
+Clapperton, he having passed through it on his way to Comie from
+Boossà; and his name, therefore, has been adopted in the map.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
+"label">[4]</span></a>This place has three names. Clapperton calls
+it <em>Comie</em>, ‘or more properly, <em>Wonjerque</em>,’ and
+Lander <em>Inguâzhilligee</em>. It appears to be the first place
+below Boossà where the river is entirely clear of rocks, and is
+therefore adopted as the ferry, and called the ‘King’s Ferry.’ It
+is the general thoroughfare for merchants passing and repassing
+from Nouffie and the countries to the north-east of Borgoo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
+"label">[5]</span></a>The first <em>z</em> in this word, is
+pronounced like our <em>z</em> in azure.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above15 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_60">60,</a> Changed: "the Magīa, which which
+was the occasion of" to: "Magīa, which was"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_93">93,</a> Changed: "for these simple,
+villagers" to: "for these simple villagers"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_143">143,</a> Changed: "aud he felt assured
+that we should reach" to: "and"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_148">148,</a> Changed: "we came in sight of
+the wals" to: "walls"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_230">230,</a> Changed: "little more sprits of
+hartshorn" to: "spirits"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_240">240,</a> Changed: "aftewards, in order
+to get clear" to: "afterwards"</li>
+
+<li>Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.</li>
+
+<li>Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78792 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
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+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
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+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78792
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78792)
generated by cgit v1.2.3 (git 2.25.1) at 2026-08-21 18:12:37 +0000