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+Project Gutenberg's At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by William Andrews
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole
+       Studies In Hirsute History
+
+Author: William Andrews
+
+Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online
+Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+Wigs in Parliament.]
+
+
+
+
+                            AT THE SIGN
+                        OF THE BARBER'S POLE
+
+                     STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY
+
+
+                                BY
+                          WILLIAM ANDREWS
+
+                     AUTHOR OF "BYGONE ENGLAND"
+                                ETC.
+
+
+
+
+                       COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE
+                           J.R. TUTIN
+                               1904
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Connected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of
+history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust
+not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting
+matters that gather round the man and his trade.
+
+In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted,
+and among those which have yielded me the most information must be
+mentioned the following:--
+
+     "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London," by Sidney Young, London,
+     1890.
+
+     "An Apology for the Beard," by Artium Magister, London, 1862.
+
+     "Barbers' Company," by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881.
+
+     "Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers," by D. Embleton, M.D.,
+     Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891.
+
+     "Barber's Shop," by R.W. Proctor, edited by W.E.A. Axon,
+     Manchester, 1883.
+
+     "Philosophy of Beards," by T.S. Cowing, Ipswich.
+
+     "Some Account of the Beard and the Moustachio," by John Adey
+     Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839.
+
+     "Why Shave?" by H.M., London.
+
+_Notes and Queries_, and other periodicals, as well as encyclopædias,
+books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous
+friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with
+gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to _Notes
+and Queries_.
+
+Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but
+all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them.
+
+In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the
+byways of history.
+
+
+                                                        WILLIAM ANDREWS.
+
+    ROYAL INSTITUTION, HULL,
+      _August 11th_, 1904.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                       PAGE
+THE BARBER'S POLE                         1
+
+THE BARBER'S SHOP                         8
+
+SUNDAY SHAVING                           21
+
+FROM BARBER TO SURGEON                   26
+
+BYGONE BEARDS                            33
+
+TAXING THE BEARD                         56
+
+POWDERING THE HAIR                       59
+
+THE AGE OF WIGS                          71
+
+STEALING WIGS                            93
+
+THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT                     95
+
+THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT                   96
+
+INDEX                                   117
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                           PAGE
+The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+   Wigs in Parliament                              _Frontispiece_
+
+The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus"                         3
+
+A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth                10
+
+William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)                  15
+
+Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons                     29
+
+Bayeux Tapestry                                               34
+
+John Knox, born 1505, died 1572                               37
+
+John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654             38
+
+The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret
+  through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord
+  Mayor                                                       39
+
+Beards in the Olden Time                                      42
+
+The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+  immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in
+  Fashion in 1605                                             45
+
+Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400                  52
+
+Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705                                58
+
+Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+  Museum                                                      72
+
+The Earl of Albemarle                                         78
+
+Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the period_)    80
+
+Campaign Wig                                                  81
+
+Periwig with Tail                                             82
+
+Ramillie Wig                                                  83
+
+Pig-tail Wig                                                  84
+
+Bag-Wig                                                       84
+
+Heart-Breakers                                                89
+
+With and Without a Wig                                        90
+
+Lord Mansfield                                                93
+
+Stealing a Wig                                                94
+
+George Frederick Muntz, M.P.                                 100
+
+Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870                        106
+
+
+
+
+THE BARBER'S POLE
+
+
+In most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of
+shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the
+pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of
+the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and
+fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and
+meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct
+solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant
+times. An attempt is made in "The Athenian Oracle" (i. 334), to trace
+the remote origin of the pole. "The barber's art," says the book, "was
+so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome
+had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they
+were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those
+beautiful leeches, [Footnote: This is the old word for doctors or
+surgeons.] our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In
+cities and corporate towns they still retain their name
+Barber-Chirurgeons. They therefore used to hang their basons out upon
+poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller
+where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still
+gibbet their signs, across a town." It is a doubtful solution of the
+origin of the barber's sign.
+
+[Illustration: The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."]
+
+A more satisfactory explanation is given in the "Antiquarian Repertory."
+"The barber's pole," it is there stated, "has been the subject of many
+conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or
+head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the
+true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master
+of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a
+beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put
+in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The
+white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the
+fillet thus elegantly twined about it." We reproduce a page from
+"Comenii Orbis Pictus," perhaps better known under its English title of
+the "Visible World." It is said to have been the first illustrated
+school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in
+1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the
+writer of many works, including the "Visible World: or a Nomenclature,
+and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's
+Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper Cuts." Under each picture
+are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in
+English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was
+able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other
+"chief things that are in the World." For a century this was the most
+popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than
+fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest
+the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's
+reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a
+patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds
+in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is
+stated in Brand's "Popular Antiquities" that an illustration in a missal
+of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice.
+
+In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of
+postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from
+July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a
+statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a
+pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no
+other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other
+respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the
+particular nature of their vocation.
+
+A question is put in the _British Apollo_ (London, 1708):--
+
+    "... Why a barber at port-hole
+    Puts forth a party-coloured pole?"
+
+This is the answer given:--
+
+    "In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting,
+    And wounds and scars took much delight in,
+    Man-menders then had noble pay,
+    Which we call surgeons to this day.
+    'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole,
+    With bason deck'd should grace the hole,
+    To guide the wounded, who unlopt
+    Could walk, on stumps the others hopt;
+    But, when they ended all their wars,
+    And men grew out of love with scars,
+    Their trade decaying; to keep swimming
+    They joyn'd the other trade of trimming,
+    And on their poles to publish either,
+    Thus twisted both their trades together."
+
+During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was
+advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by
+the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when
+busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence,
+adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small
+public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two
+businesses he might make a better living for his family.
+
+"Indeed," said the future Dean, "and what can I do to promote the happy
+union?"
+
+"And please you," said the barber, "some of our customers have heard
+much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend
+to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it
+might be the making of me and mine for ever."
+
+"But what do you intend for your sign?" inquired the cleric.
+
+"The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one
+hand and a full pot in the other."
+
+"Well," rejoined Swift, "in that case there can be no great difficulty
+in supplying you with a suitable inscription." Taking up a pen he
+instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the
+sign and remained there for many years:--
+
+    "Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here,
+    Where nought excels the shaving but--the beer."
+
+Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from
+Goldsmith as follows:--
+
+    "Man wants but little beard below,
+    Nor wants that little long."
+
+A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign
+having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and
+Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the
+following terse epigram:--
+
+    "Passans, contemplez le malheur
+      D'Absalom pendu par la nuque;
+    Il aurait évité ce malheur,
+      S'il eut porté une perruque."
+
+The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as
+follows:--
+
+    "The wretched Absalom behold,
+      Suspended by his flowing hair:
+    He might have 'scaped this hapless fate
+      Had he chosen a wig to wear."
+
+
+
+
+THE BARBER'S SHOP
+
+
+The old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a
+notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved,
+cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices.
+When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed
+the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which
+he was not slow to make known--in confidence, and in an undertone, of
+course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor;
+urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of
+this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and
+never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber.
+
+Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts
+have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that
+compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the
+following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading
+Corporation: "Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man
+after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from
+Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the
+town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand
+tiles to the Guildhall."
+
+[Illustration: A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.]
+
+In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country
+thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or
+take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the
+barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the
+gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds
+dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter,
+and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn
+came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios
+curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop
+at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an
+establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a
+barber's shop in Greene's "Quip for an Upstart Courtier," published in
+1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair,
+and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address
+him: "Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian
+manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make
+it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears
+and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will you be
+Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may
+wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen
+scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready
+to execute your worship's will." A couple of hours were spent in combing
+and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's
+basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and
+with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be
+shaven; "whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable
+like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a
+lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his
+crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a
+razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his
+moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce
+and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?--and with
+every question a snip of the scissors and a bow." If a poor man entered
+the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a
+cheese, and dismissed with scarce a "God speed you."
+
+The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers.
+No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the
+Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and
+the mean style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the
+common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. "And," wrote Stubbes with
+indignation, "they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore,
+when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to
+look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern
+in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of
+cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done
+all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be
+preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one
+ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead.
+Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking
+and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing,
+what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure.
+And when they come to washing--oh, how gingerly they behave themselves
+therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam
+that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they
+use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then
+snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended,
+comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must
+be picked, and closed together again, artificially, forsooth! The hair
+of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to
+behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest
+these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their
+pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at
+all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they
+will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any
+again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off
+his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque
+simillimæ cygnis--rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans.
+You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you
+shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall
+sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in
+the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'"
+
+John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his "Fables," and in the one
+entitled "The Goat Without a Beard" we get a description of the barber's
+shop of the period:--
+
+    "His pole, with pewter basins hung,
+    Black, rotten teeth in order strung,
+    Rang'd cups that in the window stood,
+    Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood,
+    Did well his threefold trade explain,
+    Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein."
+
+The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:--
+
+    "Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides:
+    Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides."
+
+Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits
+used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which
+were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the
+customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight
+of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the
+following:--
+
+    For handling the razors,
+    For talking of cutting throats,
+    For calling hair-powder flour,
+    For meddling with anything on the shop-board.
+
+Shakespeare alludes to this custom in "Measure for Measure," Act v. sc.
+1, as follows:--
+
+              "The strong statutes
+    Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop,
+    As much in mock as mark."
+
+[Illustration: William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).]
+
+Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop
+in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an
+apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a
+barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that
+the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to
+have been in use for centuries. The following lines have found their
+way into several works, including Ingledew's "Ballads and Songs of
+Yorkshire" (1860). In some collections the lines are headed "Rules for
+Seemly Behaviour," and in others "The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits." We
+draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we
+have seen:--
+
+    "First come, first served--then come not late,
+    And when arrived keep your sate;
+    For he who from these rules shall swerve
+    Shall pay his forfeit--so observe.
+
+    "Who enters here with boots and spurs
+    Must keep his nook, for if he stirs
+    And gives with arm'd heel a kick,
+    A pint he pays for every prick.
+
+    "Who rudely takes another's turn
+    By forfeit glass--may manners learn;
+    Who reverentless shall swear or curse
+    Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse.
+
+    "Who checks the barber in his tale,
+    Shall pay for that a gill of yale;
+    Who will or cannot miss his hat
+    Whilst trimming pays a pint for that.
+
+    "And he who can but will not pay
+    Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away;
+    For will he--nill he--if in fault,
+    He forfeit must in meal or malt.
+
+    "But mark, the man who is in drink
+    Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink."
+
+The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his
+review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated
+that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter
+has been discussed at some length in _Notes and Queries_, and it is
+asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on
+the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869.
+
+Women barbers in the olden time were by no means uncommon in this
+country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they
+handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by
+stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town
+to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the
+journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we
+meet with allusions to "the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane,"
+who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of
+Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of
+them.
+
+At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand
+was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St
+Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman
+wielder of the razor is mentioned in the "Topography of London," by J.T.
+Smith. "On one occasion," writes Smith, "that I might indulge the humour
+of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in
+Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her
+husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe."
+He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street.
+
+Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to
+Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was
+postponed until they arrived at the watering-place. Shortly after
+leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their
+faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise
+and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear
+to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of
+brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the
+customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right
+hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished
+without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave
+at Scarborough by a woman barber.
+
+At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop
+kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his
+work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have
+shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men.
+
+Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting
+barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as
+related to us. The Duke of C---- upon one occasion entered a small
+barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was
+answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. "Can you
+shave, then?" asked the duke. "Yes, sir, I always do," was the reply.
+"But can you shave without cutting?" "Yes, sir, I'll try," answered the
+youth. "Very well," said the duke, while seating himself, and loading
+his pistol; "but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here
+I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin." After a
+moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, "I'm not
+afraid of cutting you, sir," and in a short time had completed the feat
+without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle
+tones his grace asked, "Were you not afraid of having your brains blown
+out, when you might have cut me so easily?"
+
+"No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen
+to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your
+throat."
+
+The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to
+be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A
+lesson was taught him for life.
+
+The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the
+most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his
+mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the
+barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the
+future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against
+summary execution.
+
+With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated an amusing story, in
+which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure
+of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous,
+and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the
+master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up
+to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar
+was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the
+dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the
+room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he
+deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the
+charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the
+guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends.
+Farquhar was not satisfied. "I am certain," he said, "that the little
+humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this
+morning." The host returned to the room and related the story which he
+had just heard. "Ay, yes," replied the guest, who was a well-born
+gentleman, "I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the
+barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and
+the barber was out, I shaved him."
+
+The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions
+to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a
+customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time
+playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a "barber's cittern for every
+serving-man to play upon." Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at
+the barber's shop. In the "Diary of Samuel Pepys" we read: "After supper
+my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks
+with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my
+lord was well pleased." "My Lord was easily satisfied," says a
+well-known contributor to _Punch_, "and in our day would probably have
+enjoyed 'the horgans.'" We may rest assured that barber's music was of
+questionable melody.
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAY SHAVING
+
+
+In bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs
+and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to
+shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of
+Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was
+restrained.
+
+The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's
+Day observance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten
+shillings, "that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop
+on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks." Another
+law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:--"This court, taking
+notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the
+Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and
+cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the
+Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole
+consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at
+any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse,
+barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public
+or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or
+place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the
+same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord
+Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and
+adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that
+then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence
+10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said
+Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to
+the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being
+are to make diligent search in all such as aforesaid public or private
+places for discovery of such offenders."
+
+The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester
+shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:--
+
+"1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his
+servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly
+called Sunday."
+
+In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is
+stated: "Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of
+the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their
+respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the
+high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the
+future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise
+the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's
+Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon
+that day, either publicly or privately." We have in the last clause an
+indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market
+place.
+
+The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid
+half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves "not to
+shave on Sundays in the morning."
+
+At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it
+was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that "no brother
+should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto."
+
+The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a
+Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the
+settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they
+can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr
+Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone,
+presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the
+Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was
+delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what
+they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath.
+
+The Rev. Patrick Brontë, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual
+Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense
+of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of
+the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make
+known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and
+failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an
+anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local
+lore. When Mr Brontë resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village
+that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving
+himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious
+disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a
+clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview
+with Mr Brontë on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he
+observed: "I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I
+never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else.
+I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all
+that is necessary."
+
+Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the
+magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of
+Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five
+shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the
+defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the
+action.
+
+
+
+
+FROM BARBER TO SURGEON
+
+
+From the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the
+surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession
+would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted
+from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great
+antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions
+to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of
+mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber
+were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in
+bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his
+position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of
+wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 B.C.,
+and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met.
+Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in B.C. 299.
+
+The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies
+as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers
+gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical
+operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and
+it was felt that this was incompatible with the functions of the
+clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of
+Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons,
+but they were permitted to dispense medicine.
+
+The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they
+were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change
+afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the
+barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner.
+It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention
+of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in
+London to have the blood "privately carried into the Thames under the
+pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs."
+
+At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a
+gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object
+was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They
+attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives.
+Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and
+subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first
+master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As
+time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance.
+In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were
+incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding
+monarchs.
+
+A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of
+Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the
+Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the
+Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this
+"not a pleasant though a good picture." It is the largest and last work
+of Holbein.
+
+The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed
+after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak
+boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly
+altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures
+represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the
+healing art of the period at which it was painted.
+
+[Illustration: Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.]
+
+In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the
+barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: "No
+person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery,
+letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth." Laws were
+made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The
+barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons increased their
+income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however,
+vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work.
+
+The Rev. J.L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his "History and Annals
+of Northallerton" (1885). "Towards the early part of the nineteenth
+century," observes Mr Saywell, "a singular custom prevailed in the town
+and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the
+year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females,
+repaired to a surgeon to be bled--a process which they considered
+essentially conduced to vigorous health." The charge for this operation
+was one shilling.
+
+Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be
+exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled
+without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request
+was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges
+granted so long ago.
+
+In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of
+Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in
+London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only
+dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he
+had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry.
+
+Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious
+epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as
+follows:--
+
+     "Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury,
+     Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October
+     1699.
+
+    =T=hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye,
+    =H=ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye,
+    =O=bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store,
+    =M=ingled with common earth till time's no more.
+    =A=gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine,
+    =S=ince So much Merrett did his life resigne.
+
+    =M=urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave,
+    =E=lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have.
+    =R=est in Peace; who like a faithful steward,
+    =R=epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd;
+    =E=ternall mansions do attend the Just,
+    =T=o clothe with Immortality their dust,
+    =T=ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust."
+
+
+Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a
+stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale,
+barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah
+Bloodworth. It ends thus:--
+
+     "Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace
+     1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th
+     yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives.
+
+    This thing in life might raise some jealousy,
+    Here all three lie together lovingly,
+    But from embraces here no pleasure flows,
+    Alike are here all human joys and woes;
+    Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears,
+    And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears;
+    A period's come to all their toylsome lives
+    The good man's quiet; still are both his wives."
+
+
+
+
+
+BYGONE BEARDS
+
+
+The history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with
+our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past
+than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character.
+We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where
+Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a
+little later he forbids the Israelites to "mar the corners" of it.
+David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to
+the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to
+the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of
+their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent
+out to meet them, saying, "Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown,
+and then return." To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a
+mark of the deepest grief.
+
+[Illustration: Bayeux Tapestry.
+
+The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army,
+is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.]
+
+To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons
+did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long,
+and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his
+progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to
+obtain an idea as to the strength of the enemy. On their return they
+stated among other things that "the host did almost seem to be priests,
+because they had all their face and both their lips shaven," a statement
+borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux
+tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the
+broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had
+been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the
+conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair
+long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped
+and shaven masters.
+
+Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to
+allow his beard to grow, "in order," as he said, "to inspire the
+greater respect among the faithful." A curious custom of the Middle Ages
+was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of
+the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another
+instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations
+comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of
+England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern
+monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented.
+"Had my master measured wisdom by the beard," was the ready retort, "he
+would have sent a goat."
+
+It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth
+century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up
+by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not
+appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the
+beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters
+attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn
+prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table,
+unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was
+before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to "poll their hair,"
+and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the
+amount was graduated according to the condition of the person wearing
+this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the
+Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of
+Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another
+paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next
+reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She
+sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number,
+George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in
+length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan
+the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and
+we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new
+toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put
+his beard aside, saying, "It hath done no treason." John Knox (born 1505
+and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so
+largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the
+length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and
+after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the
+worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name
+of "the Apostle of Norwich." His beard was the largest and longest of
+any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing
+his beard of unusual size "that no act of his life might be unworthy of
+the gravity of his appearance." He died at Norwich in 1592.
+
+[Illustration: John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.]
+
+[Illustration: John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654.]
+
+In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to
+add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above
+a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken
+seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature
+for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's
+reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and to cut
+it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the
+first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the
+poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, "the Water Poet," are
+among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show
+considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of
+his day. In his "Superbiæ Flagellum," he describes a great variety of
+beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:--
+
+    "Now a few lines to paper I will put,
+    Of men's beards strange, and variable cut,
+    In which there's some that take as vain a pride
+    As almost in all other things beside;
+    Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush,
+    Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush;
+    And in my time of some men I have heard,
+    Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard;
+    Many of these the proverb well doth fit,
+    Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit:
+    Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine,
+    Like to the bristles of some angry swine;
+    And some to set their love's desire on edge,
+    Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge;
+    Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,
+    Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare;
+    Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like,
+    That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike;
+    Some with the hammer cut, or roman T,
+    Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be;
+    Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion,
+    Some circular, some oval in translation;
+    Some perpendicular in longitude;
+    Some like a thicket for their crassitude;
+    That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,
+    And rules geometrical in Beards are found."
+
+[Illustration: Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through
+York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.]
+
+Some curious lines appear in "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume,"
+edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society,
+1849. The piece which is entitled "The Ballad of the Beard," is
+reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled "Le Prince d'Amour,"
+1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not
+earlier. "The varied form of the beard," says Fairholt, "which
+characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on,
+and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the
+first half of the seventeenth century." Taylor, the Water Poet, has
+alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have
+so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a
+curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J.A. Repton, F.S.A., on the
+various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like "the Roman T,"
+mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut--Fig. 1--from
+a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book.
+
+[Illustration: Beards in the Olden Time]
+
+The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The
+needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or
+spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book.
+The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial
+illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's
+"Heraldry." He calls it "the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops,
+and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards." "The beard
+of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing
+accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not
+subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the
+words of the song." We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in
+fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:--
+
+    "The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin,
+      Doth dwell so near the tongue,
+    That her silence on the beard's defence
+      May do her neighbour wrong.
+
+    Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king,
+      Be his sceptres ne'er so fair:
+    Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey,
+      And are subject to a hair.
+
+    'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight,
+      That adorns both young and old;
+    A well thatcht face is a comely grace,
+      And a shelter from the cold.
+
+    When the piercing north comes thundering forth,
+      Let barren face beware;
+    For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind,
+      To shave the face that's bare.
+
+    But there's many a nice and strange device,
+      That doth the beard disgrace;
+    But he that is in such a foolish sin,
+      Is a traitor to his face.
+
+    Now the beards there be of such a company,
+      And fashions such a throng,
+    That it is very hard to handle a beard,
+      Tho' it never be so long.
+
+    The Roman T, in its bravery,
+      Doth first itself disclose,
+    But so high it turns, that oft it burns
+      With the flames of a too red nose.
+
+    The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared,
+      It is so sharp beneath,
+    For he that doth place a dagger in 's face,
+      What wears he in his sheath?
+
+    But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich
+      The needle-beard to amend,
+    Which, without any wrong, I may call too long,
+      For man can see no end.
+
+    The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd
+      In figure like a spade,
+    With which he'll make his enemies quake,
+      And think their graves are made.
+
+    The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin,
+      Shall not my verse despise;
+    It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet
+      It grates poor prisoners' eyes.
+
+    What doth invest a bishop's breast
+      But a milk-white spreading hair?
+    Which an emblem may be of integrity,
+      Which doth inhabit there.
+
+    But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry,
+      That grows about the chin,
+    With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side,
+      And a champion ground between.
+
+    Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush,
+      Which may be well endur'd."
+
+Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great
+artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole
+of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject
+that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we
+are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that
+with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:--
+
+    "Now of beards there be such company,
+      Of fashions such a throng,
+    That it is very hard to treat of the beard,
+      Tho' it be never so long."
+
+It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor
+everywhere keeping down its growth.
+
+[Illustration: The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.]
+
+Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called "Beardie." He was an
+ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard
+until the Stuarts were restored. "It would have been well," said the
+novelist, "if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting
+his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he
+lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of
+being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of
+Buccleuch and Monmouth." Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to
+Canto VI. of "Marmion":--
+
+    "With amber beard and flaxen hair,
+    And reverend apostolic air.
+    Small thought was his, in after time
+    E'er to be pitched into a rhyme.
+    The simple sire could only boast
+    That he was loyal to his cost;
+    The banish'd race of kings revered,
+    And lost his land--but kept his beard."
+
+He died in 1729 at Kelso. "Beardie's" second son, named Robert, was a
+farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather.
+
+A contributor to _Notes and Queries_, for October 1st, 1859, gives the
+following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to
+Ireland:--"In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of
+Shrewsbury, then Lord-Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was
+enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be
+used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to
+the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout
+Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who
+became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the
+treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two
+benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his
+followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated
+properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated
+Hair-breadth estates." The effects of this statute became so alarming
+that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found
+it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This
+agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred
+years.
+
+The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their
+beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth
+chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from
+remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran
+tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. "When the Jew," says the
+doctor, "who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the
+great Spaniard was dead, he contrived to get into the room where the
+body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously
+plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was
+plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and
+starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the
+Jew by mere fright which it caused." In Afghanistan "the system of
+administering justice was such," says the "Life of Abdur Rahman"
+(London, 1890) "that the humble were able to bring their claims before
+the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's
+beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of
+his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the
+Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed
+into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard
+from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It
+was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was
+no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to
+leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being
+pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the
+fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that
+in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum."
+
+Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be
+touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief
+will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining
+volume "From Cyprus to Zanzibar" (London, 1901), tells some good stories
+about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as
+it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a
+few years. "On one occasion," he says, "when I happened to be in the
+bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all
+the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their
+shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause.
+Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had
+shaved off a priest's beard." The priest had been imprisoned for felling
+a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in
+force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and
+beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The
+authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox
+Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High
+Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in
+future his hair and beard were to be left alone.
+
+Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as
+follows.
+
+A familiar example is "To pull the devil by the beard." When Archbishop
+Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, "If I should get
+into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries
+there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to
+pull me by the beard." This insulting saying is by no means confined to
+England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater
+insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand
+his beard, received the following answer:--
+
+"Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, ye whiche is ye
+most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge.
+Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit.
+But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn
+elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his
+kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by ye feith of my body, for
+this is ye most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I
+have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I
+wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne ye messager
+departed." ("The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur," edit, by Caxton,
+1485, reprinted 1817.)
+
+"To make any one's beard" is an old saying, which means "to cheat him,"
+or "to deceive him." We read in Chaucer's _Prologue to the Wife of
+Bath_ thus:--
+
+    "In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest:
+    Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the"
+
+[Illustration: Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.]
+
+And again, in the "Reve's Tale," the Miller said:--
+
+    "I trow, the clerkes were aferde
+    Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde,
+    For all his art."
+
+A more familiar saying is "To beard a person," meaning to affront him,
+or to set him at defiance. Todd explains the allusion in a note in his
+edition of Spenser's _Faerie Queene_--"did beard affront him to his
+face"; so Shakespeare's _King Henry IV._, Part I. Act i.: "I beard thee
+to thy face"--Fr. "Faire la Barbe à quelqu'un." Ital. "Fa la barbe ad
+uno" (Upton.)
+
+See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in _King Henry IV._,
+which is adopted, he says, "from romances, and originally signified to
+'cut off the beard.'" Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly
+indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs
+attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to
+Achilles, as translated by Chapman:--
+
+    --"and so tell thy strength how eminent
+    My power is, being compared with thine;
+      all other making feare
+    To vaunt equality with me, or in this
+      proud kind beare
+    Their beards against me."
+
+In Shirley's play, _A Contention for Honour and Riches_, 1633:--
+
+    "You have worn a sword thus long to show ye hilt,
+    Now let the blade appear.
+    COURTIER.--Good Captain Voice,
+    It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet
+    No ague, I can look upon your buff,
+    And punto beard, and call for no strong waters."
+
+"It is difficult to ascertain," says Repton, "when the custom of pulling
+the nose superseded that of pulling the beard, but most probably when
+the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for
+insult." In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of
+Devonshire, paid £30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court.
+An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's
+_Epicæne, or the Silent Woman_, Act iv. sc. 5.
+
+In "Aubrey's Letters" is an allusion to wiping the beard. "Ralph Kettle,
+D.D.," we read, "preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in
+conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt
+up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from
+the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was
+their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return
+to wayte on their masters)." An old play by Lyly, entitled _Mother
+Bombie_ (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:--
+
+"Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a
+handkerchief."
+
+Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little
+book, "Some account of the Beard and Moustachio," of which one hundred
+copies were printed for private circulation in 1839.
+
+The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard
+to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's _Antonio and Melida_,
+(1602), Act v., we read as follows:--
+
+"PIERO.--Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry?
+
+"ROSSALINE.--Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy,
+forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long.
+Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of
+furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming
+chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable."
+
+In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios.
+We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking
+beards. "There is no accounting," says Repton, "for the taste of ladies.
+Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the
+heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may
+not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady
+(_i.e._ the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have
+a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the
+fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's
+beard is not recorded in the history of England." Many references find a
+place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard.
+
+Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if
+carefully performed. It is stated in the "Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas,"
+published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey
+merchant, that he was very nice in the mode of that age, his valet
+being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his
+whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a
+companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we
+have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect
+the beard from being disarranged.
+
+
+
+
+TAXING THE BEARD
+
+
+Beards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the
+same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for
+nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement
+of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given
+up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the
+prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore
+either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred
+roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A
+peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to
+one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave
+rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it the utmost vigilance had
+to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding
+this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which
+had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained
+their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles
+annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was
+sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in
+1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this
+tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the
+edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726.
+
+A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in
+agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all
+other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a
+firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by
+which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were
+entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax
+of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes.
+
+In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all
+their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762,
+intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some
+stringent measures; but his sudden death prevented them from being put
+into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings
+in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed
+every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks,
+who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to
+return, and assigned land to them for their settlement.
+
+[Illustration: Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705.]
+
+During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodoráia (the
+bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these
+tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth,
+moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription "dinge
+vsatia," which means "money received"; the reverse bears the year in
+Russian characters (equivalent to "1705 year"), and the black eagle of
+the empire.
+
+Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the
+"Numismatic Chronicle," volume vii., 1845. He says that beard-tokens
+are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin
+probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served
+their purpose for the year.
+
+
+
+
+POWDERING THE HAIR
+
+
+In the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many
+circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We
+learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it
+was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of
+the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period
+gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. "The hair of
+Commodus," it is stated on the authority of Herodian, "glittered from
+its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust
+with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have
+been thought that his head was on fire."
+
+It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons
+used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon
+pictures the beard and hair are often painted blue. Strutt supplies
+interesting notes on the subject. "In some instances," he says, "which,
+indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red
+colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt
+existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this
+period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing
+it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient
+Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably
+to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine."
+
+It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made
+of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was
+maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until
+after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen
+greatly increased the popularity of the practice.
+
+The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those
+of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled
+"Wit's Recreations," 1640, the following appears under the heading of
+_Our Monsieur Powder-wig_:--
+
+    "Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet!
+    How like a pageant he doth walk the street!
+    See how his perfumed head is powdered ore;
+    'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before."
+
+In "Musarum Deliciæ," 1655, we read:--
+
+      "At the devill's shopps you buy
+        A dresse of powdered hayre,
+      On which your feathers flaunt and fly;
+        But i'de wish you have a care,
+    Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder,
+    Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder."
+
+From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared "The Impartial Monitor."
+The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words:
+"It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and
+shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these
+likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and
+scorn them for it." A _Loyal Litany_ against the Oliverians runs thus:--
+
+    "From a king-killing saint,
+    Patch, powder, and paint,
+      Libera nos, Domine."
+
+Massinger, in the "City Madam," printed in 1679, describing the dress of
+a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:--
+
+    "Since your husband was knighted, as I said,
+    The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair
+    Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art,
+    Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds
+    And richest orient pearls."
+
+John Gay, in his poem, "Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of
+London," published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb--
+
+    "Him like the Miller, pass with caution by,
+    Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly."
+
+We learn from the "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons" some particulars
+respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, "Mr John Brooks,"
+it is stated, "attended and produced a deed to which he requested the
+subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of
+Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a
+duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and
+of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no
+perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of
+alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents
+excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder,
+under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and £50, and that any person
+who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and £20." Other
+details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their
+support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the
+Bill through Parliament.
+
+A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the
+_Gentleman's Magazine_ particulars of some convictions for using powder
+not made in accordance with the laws of the land. "On the 20th October,
+1745," it is recorded, "fifty-one barbers were convicted before the
+commissioners of excise, and fined in the penalty of £20, for having in
+their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of
+Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers
+were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty."
+
+Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and
+powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any
+pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known
+as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went
+behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of
+powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In
+the _Rambler_, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that
+his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about
+with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat
+uncocked.
+
+We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an
+Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power,
+and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a
+guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet
+much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a
+considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as £200,000 a year. Fox,
+with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious
+fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition were
+unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful
+rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most
+fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his "get up"
+about 1770, drawn from the _Monthly Magazine_: "He had his chapeau-bas,
+his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder." Later, when Pitt's tax
+was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more
+than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their
+hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to
+a number of Crop Clubs. The _Times_ for April 14th, 1795, contains
+particulars of one. "A numerous club," says the paragraph, "has been
+formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his
+entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of
+Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for
+the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads."
+Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society.
+The _Times_ of April 25th, 1795, reports that: "The following noblemen
+and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn
+Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took
+place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They
+entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of them
+wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many
+noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the
+example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the
+ladies have left off wearing powder." Hair powder did not long continue
+in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high
+price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the
+hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the
+"Art of Dressing the Hair," 1770, the author complains:--
+
+    "Their hoarded grain contractors spare,
+    And starve the poor to beautify the hair."
+
+Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced
+£210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three
+shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The
+Whigs might taunt them by calling them "guinea-pigs," it mattered
+little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves,
+but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons
+were exempt from paying the tax, including "the royal family and their
+servants, the clergy with an income of under £100 per annum, subalterns,
+non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers
+enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two unmarried
+daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder."
+A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman,
+etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly
+engaged servants.
+
+Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with
+consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her
+desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was
+made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua
+Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is
+much more likely that the artists painted the hair "full and flowing"
+because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their
+patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to
+do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy,
+and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people
+discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use.
+With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of
+"The Antiquary:" "Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an
+old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish,
+which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the
+operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided
+his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him.
+
+"'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'),
+holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an
+answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the
+provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah,
+sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane
+by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's
+time--and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi'
+the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day,
+Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted
+their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as
+they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on
+his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise
+against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons,
+and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my
+blocks.'" It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic.
+"In the eighteenth century," says Mrs G. Linnæus Banks, author of the
+"Manchester Man" and other popular novels, "he waited on his chief
+customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to
+powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes.
+Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in
+advance, and sent home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a
+barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered
+top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a
+rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least
+a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupée
+or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well
+understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser
+was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging
+the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering
+with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or
+disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep
+was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was
+rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of
+imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine
+ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong
+stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them."
+
+When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was
+heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account
+of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances
+sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers
+were fined sums from £64, 5s. to £106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the
+matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should
+refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour.
+King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household
+to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to
+be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as
+was eaten by the servants.
+
+A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made
+to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation
+issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the
+office of the Town Clerk:--
+
+     "DISUSE OF HAIR POWDER.
+
+     "Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming
+     approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns
+     throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off
+     for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which
+     means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the
+     nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be
+     prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and
+     principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example
+     as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military
+     will not hesitate to adopt it, being fully convinced that
+     appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal,
+     and that in doing this they really do good.
+
+                              "W. TAYLOR, Mayor.
+
+     "January 27th, 1795."
+
+Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House
+of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked
+a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time,
+and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to
+the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it
+received the royal assent.
+
+We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull
+was fined £10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having
+been baked, agreeable to Act of Parliament for that purpose.
+
+The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use
+hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent
+antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. "So late as
+1820," says Dr Cox, "Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for
+some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known
+clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder,
+and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous
+revolutionist." In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only
+some 800 persons paid it, producing about £1000 per year.
+
+
+
+
+THE AGE OF WIGS
+
+
+At the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of
+fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone
+times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear
+in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and
+style.
+
+[Illustration: Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+Museum.]
+
+To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far
+distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians
+are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but
+as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On
+the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in
+the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female,
+and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in
+Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the
+head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from the rays
+of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to
+escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The
+specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair
+in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited
+hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if
+it had been hair growing on the head.
+
+Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is
+recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians,
+Carians, Greeks, and Romans. _Galerus_, a round cap, was the common name
+among the Romans for a wig.
+
+The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the
+Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his
+simple sister Gorgonia, said "she neither cared to curl her own hair,
+nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig." St Jerome
+pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter
+received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly,
+condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming
+down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even
+if worn as a joke. "There is no joke in the matter," said the enraged St
+Bernard: "the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin." St John
+Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be
+mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion.
+
+Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its
+authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing
+wigs. "Prætexta," to use Doran's words, "was a very respectable lady,
+married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece,
+Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband,
+Prætexta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress
+and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the
+modest maiden so attired, Prætexta went to bed. To that bedside
+immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows
+of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit,
+'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the
+hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this
+do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy
+crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months
+more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou
+art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and
+thy children shall die even before thee.'"
+
+Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and
+the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so
+runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at
+church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind
+that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to
+the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them
+to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing.
+
+History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present
+investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated.
+Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have
+their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians
+were keenly alive to their ridiculous appearance. The king's general
+was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be
+imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became
+the pink of Lycian fashion.
+
+Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs,
+one to improve, and the other to disguise his person.
+
+Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen,
+but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of
+the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into
+this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not
+often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest
+payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and
+is for twenty shillings "for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool."
+Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs,
+became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of
+Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court
+perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes.
+In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Académie de France
+des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their
+heads. He tells us "the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums
+spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of
+wigs at Court, and tried to introduce a kind of cap." He lost the day,
+for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went
+out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and
+some even cost £200 apiece.
+
+Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal
+wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring
+the fashion to Whitehall. "He forbade," we are told, "the members of the
+Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons.
+The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the
+first two."
+
+Pepys' "Diary" contains much interesting information concerning wigs.
+Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: "I heard the Duke say that
+he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never
+till this day observed that the King is mighty gray." It was perhaps the
+change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume
+the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned.
+
+As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted
+the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with
+Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his "Diary" to
+one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, "I did try two or
+three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no
+stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He
+trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my
+first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also."
+Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys
+was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys,
+and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at
+Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his
+"Diary," that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it;
+but he said, "I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to
+periwigs." Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: "Lord's day.
+Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig,
+bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in
+Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in
+fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare
+to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the
+heads of people dead of the plague."
+
+We learn from an entry in the "Diary" for June 11th, 1666, that ladies,
+in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs.
+"Walking in the galleries at Whitehall," observes Mr Pepys, "I find the
+ladies of honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets
+with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their
+doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for
+long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them
+for women in any point whatever." Pepys, we have seen, wondered if
+periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he
+was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and
+its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore,
+perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of
+depression.
+
+[Illustration: The Earl of Albemarle.]
+
+In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable
+example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of
+Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig.
+Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived.
+
+The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket
+beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places,
+combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies.
+Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John
+Hawkins, in his "History of Music," published in 1776, has an informing
+note on combing customs. "On the Mall and in the theatre," he tells us,
+"gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a
+fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his
+levée, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with
+large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs,
+while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb
+has passed through them." Allusions to this practice may be found in the
+plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We
+read in Dryden's prologue to "Almanzor and Almahide":--
+
+    "But as when vizard mask appears in pit,
+    Straight every man who thinks himself a wit
+    Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace,
+    With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face."
+
+Says Congreve, in the "Way of the World":--
+
+     "The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you."
+
+[Illustration: Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the
+period_).]
+
+Thomas Brown, in his "Letters from the Dead to the Living," presents a
+pen-portrait of beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the
+eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as
+they contain valuable information concerning wigs. "We met," says the
+writer, "three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle
+made a most magnificent figure--his periwig was large enough to have
+loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I
+warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk,
+that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the
+bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left
+arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his
+cane, that hung negligently down in a string from his right arm,
+trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it
+was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself." About this
+period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad,
+describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84,
+mentions amongst those present:--
+
+     "A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff."
+
+[Illustration: Campaign Wig.]
+
+Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase
+in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a
+few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his "Academy of
+Armory," published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we
+will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called
+the campaign-wig. He says it "hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each
+side, with a curled forehead." This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we
+have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig
+with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail.
+It was of various forms, and Swift says:--
+
+    "We who wear our wigs
+    With fantail and with snake."
+
+[Illustration: Periwig with Tail.]
+
+A third example given by Holme is named the "short-bob," and is a plain
+peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. "Perukes," says Malcolm, in
+his "Manners and Customs," "were an highly important article in 1734.
+Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle
+ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five
+shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white,
+fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray
+bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of
+dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be
+observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in
+fashion, and dark of no estimation." As time ran its course, wigs became
+more varied in form, and bore different names.
+
+[Illustration: Ramillie Wig.]
+
+We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black
+riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the
+long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough,
+gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave
+the title to a long wig described as "having a long, gradually
+diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied
+with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the bottom." It was
+at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost
+the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity
+of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his "Henry
+Esmond," as "a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great
+periwig and red heels." Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the
+French king: "Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he
+increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its
+similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was
+never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his
+practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his
+curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it
+to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great
+Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous." It is stated in
+Read's _Weekly Journal_ of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of
+the Prince of Wales, that "the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards
+wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order." This wig survived until
+the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms
+of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, was
+the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up
+in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was
+popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced
+to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is
+recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent,
+the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying,
+"Ichabod, for the glory was departed."
+
+[Illustration: Pig-tail Wig.]
+
+In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and
+that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome.
+
+[Illustration: Bag-Wig.]
+
+Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as
+a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle
+of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual
+taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time.
+In this example may be observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the
+frizziness over the forehead.
+
+We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait
+of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of
+Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication
+of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land.
+Farquhar, in a comedy called "Love and a Bottle," brought out in 1698,
+says, "A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the
+laurel."
+
+Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to
+adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: "I can remember since the
+wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first
+magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did
+either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and
+if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would
+point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal." Dr
+Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons,
+and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume,
+in 1765, was issued under the title of "Free Advice to a Young
+Clergyman," from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he
+recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had
+made his own hair respectable. Dr Randolph, on his advancement to the
+bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without
+wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said,
+"My lord, you must have a wig." Bishops wore wigs until the days of
+William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to
+set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the
+marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in
+his wig.
+
+Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period:
+perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, "The Mock
+Doctor," who exclaims, "I must have a physician's habit, for a physician
+can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee." The wig
+known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:--
+
+    "Physic of old her entry made
+    Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade;
+    While the gilt cane, with solemn pride
+    To each suspicious nose applied,
+    Seemed but a necessary prop
+    To bear the weight of wig at top."
+
+We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song
+which commenced:--
+
+    "If you would see a noble wig,
+    And in that wig a man look big,
+    To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy,
+    And gaze on Dr Delmahoy."
+
+In the middle of the last century so much importance was attached to
+this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was
+in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming:
+"Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!"
+
+Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of
+Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to
+judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and
+curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head
+with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from
+five to six guineas.
+
+An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge
+Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. "I hear your voice,"
+sternly said his Lordship, "but I cannot see you." The barrister had to
+obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would
+listen to him.
+
+Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the
+peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He
+was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation.
+In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old
+judges did not wear them. "True," said the king; "the old judges wore
+beards."
+
+In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both
+bench and bar discarding the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at
+Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court,
+and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next
+day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their
+professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous
+day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the
+mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded.
+
+We learn from a report in the _Times_ of July 24th, 1868, that on
+account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in
+the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared
+without wigs.
+
+On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case
+for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission
+to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat.
+
+Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at
+the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did
+were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition,
+to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and
+curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and
+frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It
+will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased
+the beauty of a pretty face.
+
+Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore
+false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their
+hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks.
+
+[Illustration: Heart-Breakers.]
+
+It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not
+merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in
+England. From "The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart," it
+appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it
+to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being
+false.
+
+We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666.
+Coming down to later times, we read in the _Whitehall Evening Post_ of
+August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards,
+the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding habits, with
+hats, and feathers, and periwigs."
+
+[Illustration: With and Without a Wig.]
+
+It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that
+its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of
+Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings,
+O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account
+of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking
+to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, "Take
+off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier." The witty
+Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd,
+by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald
+pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was
+scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly
+on O'Connell's side.
+
+An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year
+1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public
+ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand,
+and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him,
+he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may
+be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his
+attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the
+wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it
+may be added, was short of hair.
+
+Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth
+century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. "Had I
+lived in the reign of good Queen Anne," wrote Lord Lyttelton, "my baby
+face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as
+that which bedecks the head and shoulders of Mr Justice Blackstone when
+he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him." We learn
+from Miss Agnes Strickland that "Marie Antoinette was the first person
+who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures
+of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue
+jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs
+and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been
+points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence," she
+says, when writing her history, "who can remember, at six years old,
+joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte,
+dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered
+side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles."
+
+It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed
+wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord
+Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who
+had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but
+he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield,
+and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster
+Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is
+represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation,
+which was fully reported in the _Times_ for 1823. An action, it is
+stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to
+recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the
+possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig
+had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the
+legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told,
+he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The
+plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its
+recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the
+plaintiff the sum of £2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Mansfield.]
+
+
+
+
+STEALING WIGS
+
+
+[Illustration: Stealing a Wig.]
+
+In the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English
+gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden
+time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were
+not lost. Swift says:--
+
+    "Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs,
+    Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs."
+
+Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are
+told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes
+a successful mode of operation: "A boy was carried covered over in a
+butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by
+the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an
+accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence of assisting him
+while the tray-bearer made off." Gay, in _Trivia_, thus writes:--
+
+    "Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn:
+    High on the shoulders in a basket borne
+    Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred,
+    Plucks off the curling honours of thy head."
+
+
+
+
+THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT
+
+
+On February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets
+of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the
+peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A
+large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and
+distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might
+be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up
+for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the
+wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St
+James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but
+it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity.
+
+Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the
+metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not fare
+so well. "As the distressed men went processionally through the town,"
+says the account, "it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who
+wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this
+striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and
+inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair
+per force."
+
+Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters.
+"Should we wonder," he writes, "if carpenters were to remonstrate that
+since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?" The wags of the
+period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to
+provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published
+purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to
+wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal
+presence with the same graceful decoration.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT
+
+
+At the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to
+realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a
+century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a
+fashion which has become general. In the first year of the reign of
+Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at
+Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the
+moustache. The following Report is drawn from the _Times_ of September
+21st, 1837: "Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said
+he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad,
+applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant,
+under the following ludicrous circumstances.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for?
+
+"Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most
+haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I
+goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates
+said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I.
+'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look
+like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a
+fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit
+half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot
+sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to
+have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they
+weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and
+stole my dinner out of the pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want
+your advice respecting my mustachios.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off
+without loss of time.
+
+"Applicant: Can't part with a single hair.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose?
+
+"Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had
+such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long
+hair hanging from his lip?
+
+"Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes
+me look like a man of some courage.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the
+fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself?
+It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with
+mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin,
+which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice,
+I can't assist you.
+
+"Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip?
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you.
+
+"Applicant: No, they didn't.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: How's that?
+
+"Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only
+young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You
+may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not."
+
+"The man with the mustachios then withdrew."
+
+About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War
+had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use
+of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and
+attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in
+England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George
+Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable
+figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance,
+with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th
+July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache
+movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the
+representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in
+the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on
+Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was
+remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:--
+
+    Three Colonels, in three distant counties born,
+    Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn.
+    The first in matchless impudence surpass'd,
+    The next in bigotry, in both the last,
+    The force of nature could no further go,
+    To beard the first she shaved the other two.
+
+It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated
+tribute to Milton.
+
+[Illustration: George Frederick Muntz, M.P.]
+
+The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded
+politician. It is related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow
+journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow
+progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the
+Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily
+hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party
+that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural
+population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the
+point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to
+succumb, and that he was "determined to face it out."
+
+We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused
+a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on
+a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not
+then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by
+his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half
+a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in
+his "Backward Glances" (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain
+Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the
+well-known editor of the _Scotsman_, to Loch Long, when he saw some
+carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. "Sitting
+obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car," says the doctor, "was a portly
+personage with a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise
+distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry
+Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he
+had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on
+the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite
+impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense
+would never wear a moustache.'" We may gather from the foregoing the
+prejudice of the period against facial adornments.
+
+From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of
+Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a
+moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, "Jew, Jew,
+Jew," or "Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy," and, if that did not make any
+impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten
+laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of
+a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial
+artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding
+town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he
+was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from
+the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many
+follow his lead.
+
+A teacher of music was the first to wear a moustache in Nottingham. He
+attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great
+curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music
+master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with
+whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won
+his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible
+young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was
+regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short
+engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the
+moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham.
+
+Mr W.P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing "Autobiography," and
+devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to "The Bearded
+Model." He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how
+at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day
+his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be
+teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. "Why don't
+you get your 'air cut?" said one. "Yah! where's your bundle of old
+clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?" said another,
+"Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?" and so on.
+All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey
+beard, then such a rarity. The young gentlemen had mistaken their man.
+He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew.
+How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present
+studies.
+
+Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent
+Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted
+their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr
+Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. "I
+well remember," says Mr Frith, "a book illustrator named Stuart, who,
+according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England
+instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent
+from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he
+was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his
+pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched
+into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous
+conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them
+forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The
+Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the
+treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that
+the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction
+of his utterly unreliable character and general dishonesty in
+consequence of his beard--one man going so far as to tell him it cost
+him £200 a year--he refused to remove it." Mr Frith says when the
+Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme
+poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund
+established to meet cases like his.
+
+The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache
+movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England
+issued an order "that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during
+business hours." It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order
+was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in
+the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid
+manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old
+servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face
+and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made
+shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to
+his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer
+to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him
+until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor.
+
+In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be
+dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should
+regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about
+the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable
+authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors
+served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache.
+On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use
+of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example
+he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the
+adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught
+cold, and in a few days died.
+
+[Illustration: Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.]
+
+An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that
+any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was
+strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago.
+
+Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, "Bench
+and Bar Reminiscences" (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of
+our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and
+certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the
+face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of
+the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister,
+named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a
+long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave
+offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other
+exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held,
+and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action.
+Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge
+him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the
+ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was
+under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the
+unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea,
+a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the
+Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. "This was," says
+Mr Serjeant Robinson, "the worst that could befall him, for of course he
+could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the
+court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of
+carrying out the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did
+not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared
+afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had
+been driven from practising his profession in the courts."
+
+Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should
+appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth.
+
+Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the
+present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the
+martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the
+Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the
+military appearance of the citizen soldier.
+
+Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often
+contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In
+modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given
+rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the
+newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which
+included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches
+among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and
+against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more
+than one book dealing with the subject. An author issued "An Apology
+for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in
+particular" (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against
+shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in
+book form a "Defence of the Beard." He dealt with his subject on
+scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow
+a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good
+taste. Mr. Ward asked, "What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who
+would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?" The artist set an
+example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the
+title-page of another work was declared: "A Breach of the Sabbath, and a
+Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel." The writer designated himself
+"Theologos." If his views were carried out, it would lead to the
+practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath
+anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High
+Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is
+discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks
+joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop
+was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give
+up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused
+towards the close of 1892 when it became known that the Archbishop of
+York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several
+quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard
+swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern
+Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He
+had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination,
+but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final
+effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not
+time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing
+so, and asked why he should. "Well," said the chaplain, "you see the
+saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches." "That may
+be so," said the candidate, "but as I am not intended to be a saint and
+stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain."
+
+Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899,
+Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph
+in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it
+out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. "After
+a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next
+paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the
+curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took
+up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has
+joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of
+His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I
+felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper
+and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in
+London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the
+reporters--I don't know which--in which he held up the Bishop of
+Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded
+their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the
+contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have
+thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their
+moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but
+a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply
+with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had
+of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this
+newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard--I have not seen
+it--that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of
+Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry
+after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example
+of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the
+most astounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never
+said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would
+forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not
+personal to myself and to many of those in this tent."
+
+A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. "The
+vicar of an East London parish," said the bishop, "was one of the first
+London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to
+stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent
+his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should
+otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied
+that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and
+would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the
+bishop retracted."
+
+We are told in the "Life of R.W. Dale" (London, 1898) that this famous
+Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with "long black
+hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane." In a year or two
+it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some
+hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were
+scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in
+protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers "with an air of
+levity and worldliness." A letter of approval purported to come from
+the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H.D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had
+his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as
+follows:--
+
+     "REVEREND AND BEARDED SIR,--It rejoiced my shade to see
+     you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the
+     identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that
+     unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the
+     'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are."
+
+Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of
+the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. "John, John!" cried the
+reverend sufferer, "it's a dreadful thing that drink!" "'Deed it is,
+sir," mildly assented John, "it makes the skin unco tender."
+
+The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the
+younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William
+Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be
+readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of
+reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was
+moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: "That
+it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to
+wear a beard and moustache if they think fit." A week later, namely, on
+December 7th, at the Watch Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and
+seconded by Mr Fountain: "That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of
+December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and
+moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee." It was
+pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the
+passing of the resolution, that it would give a "fierce appearance to
+the police."
+
+In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the
+moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow
+their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and
+conditions of men.
+
+The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd
+came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of
+moustaches by his sons in the following terms: "In case my son Edward
+shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper
+Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his
+appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall
+wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called
+Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said
+son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns."
+
+Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by his will, proved in 1869,
+left £10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and
+to those who persisted in wearing them, £5 only.
+
+In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: "French
+motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs
+shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they
+declare to be a sanitary protection."
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Absalom, 7, 8
+Age of wigs, 71-93
+Agrarian law repealed, 48
+Albemarle, Earl of, 78
+---- Duchess of, 17
+Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, 27
+Alfreton, 102
+Anne, Queen, 82
+Assyrian sculptures, 72
+"_Antiquarian Repertory_," quoted, 2
+"_Athenian Oracle_," quoted, 1
+Aubrey, quoted, 17, 54
+
+Bag-wig, 84
+Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, 32
+Ballad of the Beard, 41-44
+Banks, Mrs G. Linnæus, quoted, 67
+Banks and the moustache, 105
+Bar and the moustache, 107
+Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, 26
+Barber's pole, 1-8
+Barber's shop, 8-24
+Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, 28
+---- separate, 31
+Barbers' Company, first Master of the, 27
+Barnard Castle, 18
+Barristers without wigs, 88
+Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, 84
+Bayeux tapestry, 34
+Beard protection against neuralgia, 99
+Beardie Scott, 47
+Beardless Britons, 33
+Bible, quoted, 33
+Bleeding at Northallerton, 31
+Blomfield, Bishop, 86
+Boxing the beard, 56
+Brand's "Popular Antiquities," 5
+_British Apollo_, quoted, 6
+Britons, 33
+Brontë, Rev. P., story about, 25, 26
+Bygone beards, 33-56
+
+Campaign wig, 81
+Canterbury, Sheriff of, 36
+Cavaliers, 44
+Chair, barber's, 14
+Charles I., 38, 44, 48
+---- II., 25
+Charlotte, Queen, 66
+Chaucer, quoted, 52
+Chester barber-surgeons, 23
+Church denounces wigs, 73
+---- denounces moustache, 108
+Churchyards, barbers shave in, 21, 23
+Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, 26
+Cloth of gold, 55
+Cockburn, Judge, 87
+Combing the wig, 79
+Congreve, 79
+"_Comenii Orbis Pictus_," quoted, 2
+Comenius, Bishop, 2
+Contractors and the moustache, 105
+Cox, Rev. Dr J.C., quoted, 70
+Crimean War, 99
+Crop clubs, 64
+Curing a joking duke, 18
+Cyprus customs, 50
+
+Dale, R.W., 112
+Defence of the beard, 109
+Delmahoy's wig, 86
+Demanding the beard, 51
+Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24, 25
+Disuse of hair powder, 69
+Doran, Dr, quoted, 73
+Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, 104
+Drury Lane, five women barbers of, 17
+Dryden, quoted, 79
+Duke and barber's boy, 18
+Dyeing the beard, 37
+
+Earliest mention of the beard, 33
+Early gild in London, 27
+Eastern potentate, 35
+Eden, Dr, and the moustache, 110
+Egyptian wigs, 71
+Eldon, Lord, 87
+Elizabeth, Queen, 37, 38
+Epigram on three colonels, 100
+Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, 32
+
+Fairholt, F.W., 41
+False hair worn by women, 88
+Farquhar, 20
+Female follies, 61
+Fined for wearing beards, 35, 36
+First illustrated school book, 2
+Forfeits, 14-16
+Fox, C.J., 64
+France, wig mania in, 75
+Free advice to a young clergyman, 85
+Frith, W.P., "Autobiography" quoted, 103
+From barber to surgeon, 26-32
+Frost fair, 81
+
+Gallants, gathering of, 9
+Galley-pot, 5
+Garrick, 14
+Gauls, 60
+Gay, J., quoted, 13, 61, 95
+_Gentleman's Magazine_, quoted, 62
+George III. and wig-makers, 95
+---- sets his subjects a good example, 69
+---- IV. and Dr Randolph, 86
+Gold-dust used as hair-powder, 59
+Grain, high price of, 68
+Great seal, 76
+Guitar, 9
+
+Hannibal, 75
+Hastings, Battle of, 33
+Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, 70
+Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, 79
+Heart-Breakers, 89
+Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, 101
+Henry VI., 48
+Henry VIII., 35
+Hentzner, quoted, 89
+High Church clergymen, 109
+Hodgson, Professor, 113
+Holbein's picture, 28
+Holme, R., quoted, 81
+House of Peers, 5
+How, Dr Walsham, 112
+Hull baker fined, 70
+---- candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, 110
+---- policemen and the moustache, 113
+---- timber merchant and the moustache, 110
+
+"Impartial Monitor," quoted, 61
+Incorporation of Barbers, 28
+Irish Shaving Statute, 47
+
+Jewish custom, 26
+Jews used hair-powder, 59
+Johnson, Dr, 16
+Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24
+Julius II., 34
+Juvenile wigs, 92
+
+Kauffmann, A., 66
+Kenealy, Dr, 88
+Kenrick, Dr, 16
+King's barber, 19
+Knox, John, 36, 37
+
+Last barber-surgeon in London, 31
+Laud, Archbishop, 51
+"Letters from the Dead to the Living," 79
+Lichfield, 20
+Lincoln's Inn and the beard, 35
+London women barbers, 17
+Lord's Day observance, 21-25
+Louis XIV., 83
+Louth, 18
+Lowe, Rev. H.D., 113
+"Loyal Litany," quoted, 61
+Lyttelton, Lord, 91
+
+Macedonian soldiers, 48
+Maclaren, C., editor of the _Scotsman_, 102
+Magistrate and the moustache, 97
+Malcolm, quoted, 82
+Manner of using hair powder, 63, 68
+Mansfield, Lord, 92
+Marie Antoinette, 92
+Marston, quoted, 54
+Mary Queen of Scots, 89
+Massinger, quoted, 61
+Medical men and wigs, 86
+Ministers shaving on Sunday, 24, 25
+Missal, 5
+Mock doctor, 86
+More, Rev. J., 36
+---- Sir Thomas, 36
+Moustache and the motor-car, 115
+---- movement, 96-115
+Muffs, 80
+Muntz, G.F., 99
+Music, barber's, 9, 21
+
+Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, 24
+_Notes and Queries_, quoted, 16, 47
+Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, 103
+
+Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, 27
+O'Connell, D., 90
+One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, 84
+
+Paris, massacre of, 75
+Pepys, quoted, 31, 76
+Percival, Col., 99
+Periwig with tail, 81
+Peter the Great, 91
+Phlebotomy, 2-5
+Pig-tail, 84
+Pitt, 63
+Plucking the beard, 48, 49
+Poetical signs, 7, 8
+Politics and the moustache, 101
+Pontefract, 23
+Powdering the hair, 59-71
+Pulling the nose, 54
+Puritans, 11
+
+"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," 9
+
+"Rambler," quoted, 63
+Ramillies, Battle of, 82
+---- wig, 83
+Reading regulations, 9
+Red rag, 5
+Reform Bill, 84
+Repton, J.A., 41
+Retailer of scandal, 8
+Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 66
+Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, 106
+Rogers, Dr C., quoted, 24
+Romans and hair-powder, 59
+Russian laws, 56-59
+Ryle, Bishop, 109
+
+Sandy-coloured hair, 60
+Saxons and hair-powder, 59
+Sayings, old, 51-56
+Saywell, Rev. J.L., quoted, 31
+Scarborough, woman barber at, 17
+Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 66
+Sealing custom, 35
+Shakespeare, quoted, 14, 53
+Shaving heads, 74
+Sheppard, Mr, M.P., 84
+Shirley, quoted, 53
+Short-bob, 83
+Sibthorp, Col., 99
+Speaker's wig, 87
+Starching the beard, 55
+Stealing wigs, 93-95
+Stephen, King, 75
+Stow, quoted, 75
+Stratford-on-Avon, 14
+Street frays, 9
+Strickland, Agnes, quoted, 92
+Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, 5
+Strutt, quoted, 60
+Stuart, artist, story of, 114
+Stubbes, 12
+Stupid barbers unknown, 8
+Sumner, Archbishop, 86
+Sunday shaving, 21-25
+Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, 5
+Swift, quoted, 5-7, 94
+
+Taxing hair-powder, 62, 63, 65
+---- the beard, 37, 56-59
+Taylor the Water Poet, 38, 41
+Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, 31
+"Thirsk Forfeits," 15
+Thurlow, Lord, 5
+Tichborne trial, 88
+Tiles, fine of, 9
+Tillotson, Dr, 85
+Timbs, John, quoted, 31
+_Times_, quoted, 64, 88, 97
+Token, beard, 58
+Tours, Edict of, 27
+Tragic story, 48
+
+Verner, Col., 99
+Vizetelly, quoted, 50
+
+Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, 102
+Walpole, Horace, quoted, 96
+---- Sir Robert, 85
+Ward, James, quoted, 109
+Wesleyans and the beard, 113
+_Whitehall Evening Post_, quoted, 90
+Wig-makers' riot, 95, 96
+Williams, noted barber, 92
+Wills and the moustache, 114
+With and without wigs, 90
+"Wits' Recreations," quoted, 60
+Women barbers, 16-18
+Working hours, long, 9
+Workshop and Sunday shaving, 23
+
+Yarmouth, curious bill at, 69
+York, Archbishop of, 110
+---- Gild of Barber-Surgeons, 21
+"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, 15, 16
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by 
+William Andrews
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+
+Project Gutenberg's At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by William Andrews
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole
+       Studies In Hirsute History
+
+Author: William Andrews
+
+Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online
+Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="notes">
+<p>Transcriber's Notes:</p>
+
+<p>Larger images may be viewed by clicking on any picture except the ornate letters.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center">
+<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a>
+<a href="images/frontis.png"><img src="images/frontis-th.png" width="311" height="373"
+alt="The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+Wigs in Parliament."
+title="The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+Wigs in Parliament." /></a>
+<p class="caption">The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+Wigs in Parliament.</p>
+</div>
+
+<h1>AT THE SIGN<br />
+OF THE BARBER'S POLE</h1>
+
+<h2>STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY</h2>
+
+<div style="height: 2em;"><br /></div>
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>WILLIAM ANDREWS</h2>
+
+<h4>AUTHOR OF &quot;BYGONE ENGLAND&quot;<br />
+ETC.</h4>
+
+<div style="height: 5em;"><br /></div>
+
+<h5>COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE<br />
+J.&nbsp;R. TUTIN<br />
+1904</h5>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/c.png" width="100" height="100" alt="C" title="C" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">onnected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of
+history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust
+not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting
+matters that gather round the man and his trade.</p>
+
+<p>In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted,
+and among those which have yielded me the most information must be
+mentioned the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London,&quot; by Sidney Young, London,
+     1890.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;An Apology for the Beard,&quot; by Artium Magister, London, 1862.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Barbers' Company,&quot; by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers,&quot; by D. Embleton, M.D.,
+     Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Barber's Shop,&quot; by R.&nbsp;W. Proctor, edited by W.&nbsp;E.&nbsp;A. Axon,
+     Manchester, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Philosophy of Beards,&quot; by T.&nbsp;S. Cowing, Ipswich.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Some Account of the Beard and the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a>Moustachio,&quot; by John Adey
+     Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Why Shave?&quot; by H.&nbsp;M., London.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p><em>Notes and Queries</em>, and other periodicals, as well as encyclop&aelig;dias,
+books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous
+friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with
+gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to <em>Notes
+and Queries</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but
+all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the
+byways of history.</p>
+
+
+<p style="text-align:right;">WILLIAM ANDREWS.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Royal Institution, Hull,</span><br />
+<em>August 11th</em>, 1904.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table class="toc" cellpadding="5" summary="">
+<tr><td>The Barber's Pole</td>                         <td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Barber's Shop</td>                         <td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Sunday Shaving</td>                           <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>From Barber to Surgeon</td>                   <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Bygone Beards</td>                            <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Taxing the Beard</td>                         <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Powdering the Hair</td>                       <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Age of Wigs</td>                          <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Stealing Wigs</td>                            <td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Wig-Makers' Riot</td>                     <td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Moustache Movement</td>                   <td align="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Index</td>                                   <td align="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a><br /></p>
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table class="il" cellpadding="5" summary="">
+<tr><td>The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+   Wigs in Parliament</td><td align="right"><a href="#frontis"><em>Frontispiece</em></a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus"</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Bayeux Tapestry</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>John Knox, born 1505, died 1572</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret
+  through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord
+  Mayor</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Beards in the Olden Time</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+  immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in
+  Fashion in 1605</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Russian Beard Token, <abbr>A.D.</abbr> 1705</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+  Museum</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Earl of Albemarle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (<em>from a print of the period</em>)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Campaign Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Periwig with Tail</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv"></a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Ramillie Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Pig-tail Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Bag-Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Heart-Breakers</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>With and Without a Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Lord Mansfield</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Stealing a Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>George Frederick Muntz, M.P.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>THE BARBER'S POLE</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">n most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of
+shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the
+pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of
+the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and
+fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and
+meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct
+solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant
+times. An attempt is made in &quot;The Athenian Oracle&quot; (i. 334), to trace
+the remote origin of the pole. &quot;The barber's art,&quot; says the book, &quot;was
+so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome
+had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they
+were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those
+beautiful leeches,<a name="FNanchor__1" id="FNanchor__1"></a><a href="#Footnote__1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In
+cities and corporate towns they still retain their name
+Barber-Chirurgions. They therefore used to hang their<a class="pagenum" name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> basons out upon
+poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller
+where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still
+gibbet their signs, across a town.&quot; It is a doubtful solution of the
+origin of the barber's sign.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote__1" id="Footnote__1"></a><a href="#FNanchor__1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>This is the old word for doctors or
+surgeons.</p></div></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image24.png">
+  <img src="images/image24-th.png" width="225" height="400"
+    alt="The Barber's Shop, from &quot;Orbis Pictus.&quot;"
+	title="The Barber's Shop, from &quot;Orbis Pictus.&quot;" />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">The Barber's Shop, from &quot;Orbis Pictus.&quot;</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A more satisfactory explanation is given in the &quot;Antiquarian Repertory.&quot;
+&quot;The barber's pole,&quot; it is there stated, &quot;has been the subject of many
+conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or
+head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the
+true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master
+of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a
+beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put
+in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The
+white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the
+fillet thus elegantly twined about it.&quot; We reproduce a page from
+&quot;Comenii Orbis Pictus,&quot; perhaps better known under its English title of
+the &quot;Visible World.&quot; It is said to have been the first illustrated
+school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in
+1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the
+writer of many works, including the &quot;Visible World: or a Nomenclature,
+and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's
+Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper <a class="pagenum" name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>
+<a class="pagenum" name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>Cuts.&quot; Under each picture
+are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in
+English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was
+able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other
+&quot;chief things that are in the World.&quot; For a century this was the most
+popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than
+fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest
+the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's
+reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a
+patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds
+in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is
+stated in Brand's &quot;Popular Antiquities&quot; that an illustration in a missal
+of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice.</p>
+
+<p>In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of
+postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from
+July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a
+statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a
+pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no
+other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other
+respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the
+particular nature of their vocation.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>A question is put in the <em>British Apollo</em> (London, 1708):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;... Why a barber at port-hole</p>
+<p>Puts forth a party-coloured pole?&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>This is the answer given:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting,</p>
+<p>And wounds and scars took much delight in,</p>
+<p>Man-menders then had noble pay,</p>
+<p>Which we call surgeons to this day.</p>
+<p>'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole,</p>
+<p>With bason deck'd should grace the hole,</p>
+<p>To guide the wounded, who unlopt</p>
+<p>Could walk, on stumps the others hopt;</p>
+<p>But, when they ended all their wars,</p>
+<p>And men grew out of love with scars,</p>
+<p>Their trade decaying; to keep swimming</p>
+<p>They joyn'd the other trade of trimming,</p>
+<p>And on their poles to publish either,</p>
+<p>Thus twisted both their trades together.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was
+advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by
+the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when
+busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence,
+adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small
+public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two
+businesses he might make a better living for his family.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Indeed,&quot; said the future Dean, &quot;and what can I do to promote the happy
+union?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>&quot;And please you,&quot; said the barber, &quot;some of our customers have heard
+much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend
+to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it
+might be the making of me and mine for ever.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But what do you intend for your sign?&quot; inquired the cleric.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one
+hand and a full pot in the other.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well,&quot; rejoined Swift, &quot;in that case there can be no great difficulty
+in supplying you with a suitable inscription.&quot; Taking up a pen he
+instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the
+sign and remained there for many years:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here,</p>
+<p>Where nought excels the shaving but&mdash;the beer.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from
+Goldsmith as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Man wants but little beard below,</p>
+<p>Nor wants that little long.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign
+having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and
+Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the
+following terse epigram:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>&quot;Passans, contemplez le malheur</p>
+<p class="i2">D'Absalom pendu par la nuque;</p>
+<p>Il aurait evit&eacute; ce malheur,</p>
+<p class="i2">S'il eut port&eacute; une perruque.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;The wretched Absalom behold,</p>
+<p class="i2">Suspended by his flowing hair:</p>
+<p>He might have 'scaped this hapless fate</p>
+<p class="i2">Had he chosen a wig to wear.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE BARBER'S SHOP</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/t.png" width="100" height="100" alt="T" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">he old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a
+notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved,
+cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices.
+When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed
+the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which
+he was not slow to make known&mdash;in confidence, and in an undertone, of
+course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor;
+urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of
+this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and
+never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts
+have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that
+compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the
+following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading
+Corporation: &quot;Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man
+after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from
+Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the
+town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand
+tiles to the Guildhall.&quot;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image1.png">
+  <img src="images/image1-th.png" width="400" height="383"
+  alt="A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth."
+  title="A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country
+thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or
+take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the
+barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the
+gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds
+dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter,
+and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn
+came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios
+curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop
+at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an
+establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a
+barber's shop in Greene's &quot;Quip for an Upstart Courtier,&quot; pub<a class="pagenum" name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>lished in
+1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair,
+and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address
+him: &quot;Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian
+manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make
+it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears
+and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will<a class="pagenum" name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> you be
+Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may
+wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen
+scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready
+to execute your worship's will.&quot; A couple of hours were spent in combing
+and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's
+basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and
+with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be
+shaven; &quot;whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable
+like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a
+lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his
+crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a
+razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his
+moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce
+and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?&mdash;and with
+every question a snip of the scissors and a bow.&quot; If a poor man entered
+the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a
+cheese, and dismissed with scarce a &quot;God speed you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers.
+No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the
+Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and
+the mean<a class="pagenum" name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a> style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the
+common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. &quot;And,&quot; wrote Stubbes with
+indignation, &quot;they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore,
+when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to
+look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern
+in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of
+cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done
+all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be
+preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one
+ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead.
+Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking
+and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing,
+what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure.
+And when they come to washing&mdash;oh, how gingerly they behave themselves
+therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam
+that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they
+use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then
+snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended,
+comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must
+be picked, and closed together again,<a class="pagenum" name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> artificially, forsooth! The hair
+of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to
+behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest
+these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their
+pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at
+all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they
+will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any
+again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off
+his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque
+simillim&aelig; cygnis&mdash;rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans.
+You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you
+shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall
+sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in
+the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'&quot;</p>
+
+<p>John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his &quot;Fables,&quot; and in the one
+entitled &quot;The Goat Without a Beard&quot; we get a description of the barber's
+shop of the period:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;His pole, with pewter basins hung,</p>
+<p>Black, rotten teeth in order strung,</p>
+<p>Rang'd cups that in the window stood,</p>
+<p>Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood,</p>
+<p>Did well his threefold trade explain,</p>
+<p>Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides:</p>
+<p>Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits
+used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which
+were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the
+customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight
+of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the
+following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>For handling the razors,</p>
+<p>For talking of cutting throats,</p>
+<p>For calling hair-powder flour,</p>
+<p>For meddling with anything on the shop-board.</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Shakespeare alludes to this custom in &quot;Measure for Measure,&quot; Act v. sc.
+1, as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p class="i10">&quot;The strong statutes</p>
+<p>Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop,</p>
+<p>As much in mock as mark.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image2.png">
+  <img src="images/image2-th.png" width="325" height="400"
+  alt="William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)."
+  title="William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop
+in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an
+apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a
+barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that
+the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to
+have been in use for<a class="pagenum" name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a> centuries. The following lines have found their
+way into several works, including Ingledew's &quot;Ballads and Songs of
+Yorkshire&quot; (1860). In some collections the lines are headed &quot;Rules for
+Seemly Behaviour,&quot; and in others &quot;The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits.&quot; We
+draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we
+have seen:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;First come, first served&mdash;then come not late,</p>
+<p>And when arrived keep your sate;</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>
+<p>For he who from these rules shall swerve</p>
+<p>Shall pay his forfeit&mdash;so observe.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Who enters here with boots and spurs</p>
+<p>Must keep his nook, for if he stirs</p>
+<p>And gives with arm'd heel a kick,</p>
+<p>A pint he pays for every prick.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Who rudely takes another's turn</p>
+<p>By forfeit glass&mdash;may manners learn;</p>
+<p>Who reverentless shall swear or curse</p>
+<p>Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Who checks the barber in his tale,</p>
+<p>Shall pay for that a gill of yale;</p>
+<p>Who will or cannot miss his hat</p>
+<p>Whilst trimming pays a pint for that.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;And he who can but will not pay</p>
+<p>Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away;</p>
+<p>For will he&mdash;nill he&mdash;if in fault,</p>
+<p>He forfeit must in meal or malt.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;But mark, the man who is in drink</p>
+<p>Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his
+review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated
+that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter
+has been discussed at some length in <em>Notes and Queries</em>, and it is
+asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on
+the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869.</p>
+
+<p>Women barbers in the olden time were by no<a class="pagenum" name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a> means uncommon in this
+country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they
+handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by
+stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town
+to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the
+journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we
+meet with allusions to &quot;the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane,&quot;
+who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of
+Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of
+them.</p>
+
+<p>At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand
+was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St
+Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman
+wielder of the razor is mentioned in the &quot;Topography of London,&quot; by J.&nbsp;T.
+Smith. &quot;On one occasion,&quot; writes Smith, &quot;that I might indulge the humour
+of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in
+Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her
+husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe.&quot;
+He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street.</p>
+
+<p>Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to
+Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was
+postponed until they arrived at the watering-<a class="pagenum" name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>place. Shortly after
+leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their
+faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise
+and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear
+to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of
+brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the
+customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right
+hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished
+without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave
+at Scarborough by a woman barber.</p>
+
+<p>At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop
+kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his
+work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have
+shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men.</p>
+
+<p>Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting
+barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as
+related to us. The Duke of C&mdash;&mdash; upon one occasion entered a small
+barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was
+answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. &quot;Can you
+shave, then?&quot; asked the duke. &quot;Yes, sir, I always do,&quot; was the reply.
+&quot;But can you shave without cutting?&quot; &quot;Yes, sir, I'll try,&quot; answered the
+youth. &quot;Very well,&quot; said the<a class="pagenum" name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a> duke, while seating himself, and loading
+his pistol; &quot;but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here
+I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin.&quot; After a
+moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, &quot;I'm not
+afraid of cutting you, sir,&quot; and in a short time had completed the feat
+without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle
+tones his grace asked, &quot;Were you not afraid of having your brains blown
+out, when you might have cut me so easily?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen
+to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your
+throat.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to
+be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A
+lesson was taught him for life.</p>
+
+<p>The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the
+most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his
+mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the
+barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the
+future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against
+summary execution.</p>
+
+<p>With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated<a class="pagenum" name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> an amusing story, in
+which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure
+of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous,
+and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the
+master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up
+to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar
+was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the
+dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the
+room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he
+deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the
+charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the
+guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends.
+Farquhar was not satisfied. &quot;I am certain,&quot; he said, &quot;that the little
+humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this
+morning.&quot; The host returned to the room and related the story which he
+had just heard. &quot;Ay, yes,&quot; replied the guest, who was a well-born
+gentleman, &quot;I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the
+barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and
+the barber was out, I shaved him.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions
+to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a<a class="pagenum" name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>
+customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time
+playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a &quot;barber's cittern for every
+serving-man to play upon.&quot; Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at
+the barber's shop. In the &quot;Diary of Samuel Pepys&quot; we read: &quot;After supper
+my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks
+with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my
+lord was well pleased.&quot; &quot;My Lord was easily satisfied,&quot; says a
+well-known contributor to <em>Punch</em>, &quot;and in our day would probably have
+enjoyed 'the horgans.'&quot; We may rest assured that barber's music was of
+questionable melody.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SUNDAY SHAVING</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">n bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs
+and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to
+shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of
+Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was
+restrained.</p>
+
+<p>The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's
+Day observ<a class="pagenum" name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>ance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten
+shillings, &quot;that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop
+on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks.&quot; Another
+law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:&mdash;&quot;This court, taking
+notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the
+Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and
+cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the
+Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole
+consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at
+any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse,
+barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public
+or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or
+place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the
+same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord
+Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and
+adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that
+then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence
+10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said
+Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to
+the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being
+are to make diligent search<a class="pagenum" name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a> in all such as aforesaid public or private
+places for discovery of such offenders.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester
+shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his
+servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly
+called Sunday.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is
+stated: &quot;Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of
+the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their
+respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the
+high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the
+future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise
+the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's
+Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon
+that day, either publicly or privately.&quot; We have in the last clause an
+indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market
+place.</p>
+
+<p>The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid
+half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves &quot;not to
+shave on Sundays in the morning.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it
+was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that &quot;no brother
+should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a
+Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the
+settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they
+can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr
+Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone,
+presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the
+Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was
+delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what
+they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath.</p>
+
+<p>The Rev. Patrick Bront&euml;, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual
+Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense
+of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of
+the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make
+known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and
+failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an
+anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local
+lore. When Mr<a class="pagenum" name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a> Bront&euml; resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village
+that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving
+himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious
+disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a
+clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview
+with Mr Bront&euml; on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he
+observed: &quot;I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I
+never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else.
+I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all
+that is necessary.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the
+magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of
+Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five
+shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the
+defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the
+action.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>FROM BARBER TO SURGEON</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/f.png" width="100" height="100" alt="F" title="F" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">rom the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the
+surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession
+would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted
+from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great
+antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions
+to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of
+mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber
+were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in
+bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his
+position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of
+wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 <abbr>B.C.</abbr>,
+and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met.
+Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in <abbr>B.C.</abbr> 299.</p>
+
+<p>The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies
+as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers
+gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical
+operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and
+it was felt that this was incompatible<a class="pagenum" name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a> with the functions of the
+clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of
+Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons,
+but they were permitted to dispense medicine.</p>
+
+<p>The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they
+were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change
+afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the
+barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner.
+It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention
+of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in
+London to have the blood &quot;privately carried into the Thames under the
+pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a
+gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object
+was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They
+attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives.
+Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and
+subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first
+master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As
+time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>
+In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were
+incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding
+monarchs.</p>
+
+<p>A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of
+Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the
+Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the
+Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this
+&quot;not a pleasant though a good picture.&quot; It is the largest and last work
+of Holbein.</p>
+
+<p>The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed
+after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak
+boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly
+altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures
+represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the
+healing art of the period at which it was painted.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image3.png">
+  <img src="images/image3-th.png" width="400" height="233"
+  alt="Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons."
+  title="Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the
+barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: &quot;No
+person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery,
+letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth.&quot; Laws were
+made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The
+barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons in<a class="pagenum" name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>creased their
+income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however,
+vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work.</p>
+
+<p>The Rev. J.&nbsp;L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his &quot;History and Annals
+of Northallerton&quot; (1885). &quot;Towards the early part of the nineteenth
+century,&quot; observes Mr Saywell, &quot;a singular custom prevailed in the town
+and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the
+year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females,
+repaired to a surgeon to be bled&mdash;a process which they considered
+essentially conduced to vigorous health.&quot; The charge for this operation
+was one shilling.</p>
+
+<p>Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be
+exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled
+without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request
+was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges
+granted so long ago.</p>
+
+<p>In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of
+Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in
+London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only
+dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he
+had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry.</p>
+
+<p>Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious
+epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>&quot;Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury,
+     Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October
+     1699.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p><strong>T</strong>hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye,</p>
+<p><strong>H</strong>ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye,</p>
+<p><strong>O</strong>bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store,</p>
+<p><strong>M</strong>ingled with common earth till time's no more.</p>
+<p><strong>A</strong>gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine,</p>
+<p><strong>S</strong>ince So much Merrett did his life resigne.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p><strong>M</strong>urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave,</p>
+<p><strong>E</strong>lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have.</p>
+<p><strong>R</strong>est in Peace; who like a faithful steward,</p>
+<p><strong>R</strong>epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd;</p>
+<p><strong>E</strong>ternall mansions do attend the Just,</p>
+<p><strong>T</strong>o clothe with Immortality their dust,</p>
+<p><strong>T</strong>ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a
+stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale,
+barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah
+Bloodworth. It ends thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace
+     1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th
+     yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>This thing in life might raise some jealousy,</p>
+<p>Here all three lie together lovingly,</p>
+<p>But from embraces here no pleasure flows,</p>
+<p>Alike are here all human joys and woes;</p>
+<p>Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears,</p>
+<p>And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears;</p>
+<p>A period's come to all their toylsome lives</p>
+<p>The good man's quiet; still are both his wives.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+</blockquote>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>BYGONE BEARDS</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/t.png" width="100" height="100" alt="T" title="T" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">he history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with
+our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past
+than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character.
+We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where
+Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a
+little later he forbids the Israelites to &quot;mar the corners&quot; of it.
+David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to
+the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to
+the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of
+their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent
+out to meet them, saying, &quot;Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown,
+and then return.&quot; To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a
+mark of the deepest grief.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image4.png">
+  <img src="images/image4-th.png" width="238" height="138"
+  alt="Bayeux Tapestry."
+  title="Bayeux Tapestry." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Bayeux Tapestry.<br />
+  The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army,
+  is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons
+did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long,
+and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his
+progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to
+obtain an idea as to the strength<a class="pagenum" name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a> of the enemy. On their return they
+stated among other things that &quot;the host did almost seem to be priests,
+because they had all their face and both their lips shaven,&quot; a statement
+borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux
+tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the
+broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had
+been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the
+conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair
+long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped
+and shaven masters.</p>
+
+<p>Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to
+allow his beard<a class="pagenum" name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a> to grow, &quot;in order,&quot; as he said, &quot;to inspire the
+greater respect among the faithful.&quot; A curious custom of the Middle Ages
+was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of
+the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another
+instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations
+comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of
+England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern
+monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented.
+&quot;Had my master measured wisdom by the beard,&quot; was the ready retort, &quot;he
+would have sent a goat.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth
+century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up
+by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not
+appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the
+beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters
+attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn
+prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table,
+unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was
+before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to &quot;poll their hair,&quot;
+and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the
+amount was graduated according to the condition of the<a class="pagenum" name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a> person wearing
+this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the
+Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of
+Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another
+paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next
+reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She
+sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number,
+George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in
+length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan
+the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and
+we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new
+toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put
+his beard aside, saying, &quot;It hath done no treason.&quot; John Knox (born 1505
+and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so
+largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the
+length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and
+after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the
+worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name
+of &quot;the Apostle of Norwich.&quot; His beard was the largest and longest of
+any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing
+his beard of unusual size &quot;that no act of his life might <a class="pagenum" name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>be unworthy of
+the gravity of his appearance.&quot; He died at Norwich in 1592.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image5.png">
+  <img src="images/image5-th.png" width="199" height="219"
+  alt="John Knox, born 1505, died 1572."
+  title="John Knox, born 1505, died 1572." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a href="images/image6.png">
+  <img src="images/image6-th.png" width="77" height="85"
+  alt="John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654."
+  title="John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">John Taylor, the<br /> Water Poet, born<br /> 1580, died 1654.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to
+add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above
+a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken
+seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature
+for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's
+reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and <a class="pagenum" name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>to cut
+it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the
+first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the
+poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, &quot;the Water Poet,&quot; are
+among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show
+considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of
+his day. In his &quot;Superbi&aelig; Flagellum,&quot; he describes a great variety of
+beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Now a few lines to paper I will put,</p>
+<p>Of men's beards strange, and variable cut,</p>
+<p>In which there's some that take as vain a pride</p>
+<p>As almost in all other things beside;</p>
+<p>Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush,</p>
+<p>Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush;</p>
+<p>And in my time of some men I have heard,</p>
+<p>Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard;</p>
+<p>Many of these the proverb well doth fit,</p>
+<p>Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit:</p>
+<p>Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine,</p>
+<p>Like to the bristles of some angry swine;</p>
+<p>And some to set their love's desire on edge,</p>
+<p>Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge;</p>
+<p>Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,</p>
+<p>Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare;</p>
+<p>Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like,</p>
+<p>That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike;</p>
+<p>Some with the hammer cut, or roman T,</p>
+<p>Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be;</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>
+<p>Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion,</p>
+<p>Some circular, some oval in translation;</p>
+<p>Some perpendicular in longitude;</p>
+<p>Some like a thicket for their crassitude;</p>
+<p>That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,</p>
+<p>And rules geometrical in Beards are found.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image7.png">
+  <img src="images/image7-th.png" width="267" height="400"
+  alt="Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through
+York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor."
+  title="Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through
+York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through
+York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some curious lines appear in &quot;Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume,&quot;
+edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society,
+1849. The piece which is entitled &quot;The Ballad of the Beard,&quot; is
+reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled &quot;Le Prince d'Amour,&quot;
+1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not
+earlier. &quot;The varied form of the beard,&quot; says Fairholt, &quot;which
+characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on,
+and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the
+first half of the seventeenth century.&quot; Taylor, the Water Poet, has
+alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have
+so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a
+curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J.&nbsp;A. Repton, F.S.A., on the
+various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like &quot;the Roman T,&quot;
+mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut&mdash;Fig. 1&mdash;from
+a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image8.png">
+  <img src="images/image8-th.png" width="294" height="105"
+  alt="Beards in the Olden Time"
+  title="Beards in the Olden Time" />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Beards in the Olden Time</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward<a class="pagenum" name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a> Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The
+needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or
+spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book.
+The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial
+illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's
+&quot;Heraldry.&quot; He calls it &quot;the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops,
+and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards.&quot; &quot;The beard
+of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing
+accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not
+subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the
+words of the song.&quot; We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in
+fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin,</p>
+<p class="i2">Doth dwell so near the tongue,</p>
+<p>That her silence on the beard's defence</p>
+<p class="i2">May do her neighbour wrong.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king,</p>
+<p class="i2">Be his sceptres ne'er so fair:</p>
+<p>Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey,</p>
+<p class="i2">And are subject to a hair.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight,</p>
+<p class="i2">That adorns both young and old;</p>
+<p>A well thatcht face is a comely grace,</p>
+<p class="i2">And a shelter from the cold.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>When the piercing north comes thundering forth,</p>
+<p class="i2">Let barren face beware;</p>
+<p>For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind,</p>
+<p class="i2">To shave the face that's bare.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>But there's many a nice and strange device,</p>
+<p class="i2">That doth the beard disgrace;</p>
+<p>But he that is in such a foolish sin,</p>
+<p class="i2">Is a traitor to his face.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>Now the beards there be of such a company,</p>
+<p class="i2">And fashions such a throng,</p>
+<p>That it is very hard to handle a beard,</p>
+<p class="i2">Tho' it never be so long.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>The Roman T, in its bravery,</p>
+<p class="i2">Doth first itself disclose,</p>
+<p>But so high it turns, that oft it burns</p>
+<p class="i2">With the flames of a too red nose.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared,</p>
+<p class="i2">It is so sharp beneath,</p>
+<p>For he that doth place a dagger in 's face,</p>
+<p class="i2">What wears he in his sheath?</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich</p>
+<p class="i2">The needle-beard to amend,</p>
+<p>Which, without any wrong, I may call too long,</p>
+<p class="i2">For man can see no end.</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd</p>
+<p class="i2">In figure like a spade,</p>
+<p>With which he'll make his enemies quake,</p>
+<p class="i2">And think their graves are made.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin,</p>
+<p class="i2">Shall not my verse despise;</p>
+<p>It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet</p>
+<p class="i2">It grates poor prisoners' eyes.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>What doth invest a bishop's breast</p>
+<p class="i2">But a milk-white spreading hair?</p>
+<p>Which an emblem may be of integrity,</p>
+<p class="i2">Which doth inhabit there.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry,</p>
+<p class="i2">That grows about the chin,</p>
+<p>With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side,</p>
+<p class="i2">And a champion ground between.</p>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<p>Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush,</p>
+<p class="i2">Which may be well endur'd.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great
+artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole
+of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject
+that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we
+are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that
+with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Now of beards there be such company,</p>
+<p class="i2">Of fashions such a throng,</p>
+<p>That it is very hard to treat of the beard,</p>
+<p class="i2">Tho' it be never so long.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor
+everywhere keeping down its growth.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image9.png">
+  <img src="images/image9-th.png" width="400" height="264"
+  alt="The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605."
+  title="The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called &quot;Beardie.&quot; He was an
+ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard
+until the Stuarts were restored. &quot;It would have been well,&quot; said the
+novelist, &quot;if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting
+his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he
+lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of
+being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of
+Buccleuch and Monmouth.&quot; Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to
+Canto VI. of &quot;Marmion&quot;:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;With amber beard and flaxen hair,</p>
+<p>And reverend apostolic air.</p>
+<p>Small thought was his, in after time</p>
+<p>E'er to be pitched into a rhyme.</p>
+<p>The simple sire could only boast</p>
+<p>That he was loyal to his cost;</p>
+<p>The banish'd race of kings revered,</p>
+<p>And lost his land&mdash;but kept his beard.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>He died in 1729 at Kelso. &quot;Beardie's&quot; second son, named Robert, was a
+farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather.</p>
+
+<p>A contributor to <em>Notes and Queries</em>, for October 1st, 1859, gives the
+following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to
+Ireland:&mdash;&quot;In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of
+Shrewsbury, then Lord-<a class="pagenum" name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was
+enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be
+used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to
+the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout
+Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who
+became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the
+treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two
+benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his
+followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated
+properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated
+Hair-breadth estates.&quot; The effects of this statute became so alarming
+that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found
+it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This
+agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred
+years.</p>
+
+<p>The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their
+beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth
+chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from
+remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran
+tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. &quot;When the Jew,&quot; says the
+doctor, &quot;who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the
+great Spaniard was dead, he <a class="pagenum" name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>contrived to get into the room where the
+body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously
+plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was
+plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and
+starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the
+Jew by mere fright which it caused.&quot; In Afghanistan &quot;the system of
+administering justice was such,&quot; says the &quot;Life of Abdur Rahman&quot;
+(London, 1890) &quot;that the humble were able to bring their claims before
+the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's
+beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of
+his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the
+Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed
+into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard
+from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It
+was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was
+no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to
+leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being
+pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the
+fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that
+in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be
+touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief
+will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining
+volume &quot;From Cyprus to Zanzibar&quot; (London, 1901), tells some good stories
+about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as
+it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a
+few years. &quot;On one occasion,&quot; he says, &quot;when I happened to be in the
+bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all
+the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their
+shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause.
+Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had
+shaved off a priest's beard.&quot; The priest had been imprisoned for felling
+a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in
+force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and
+beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The
+authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox
+Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High
+Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in
+future his hair and beard were to be left alone.</p>
+
+<p>Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as
+follows.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>A familiar example is &quot;To pull the devil by the beard.&quot; When Archbishop
+Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, &quot;If I should get
+into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries
+there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to
+pull me by the beard.&quot; This insulting saying is by no means confined to
+England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater
+insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand
+his beard, received the following answer:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, y<sup>e</sup> whiche is y<sup>e</sup>
+most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge.
+Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit.
+But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn
+elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his
+kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by y<sup>e</sup> feith of my body, for
+this is y<sup>e</sup> most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I
+have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I
+wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne y<sup>e</sup> messager
+departed.&quot; (&quot;The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur,&quot; edit, by Caxton,
+1485, reprinted 1817.)</p>
+
+<p>&quot;To make any one's beard&quot; is an old saying, which means &quot;to cheat him,&quot;
+or &quot;to deceive <a class="pagenum" name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>him.&quot; We read in Chaucer's <em>Prologue to the Wife of
+Bath</em> thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest:</p>
+<p>Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image10.png">
+  <img src="images/image10-th.png" width="202" height="226"
+  alt="Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400."
+  title="Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>And again, in the &quot;Reve's Tale,&quot; the Miller said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;I trow, the clerkes were aferde</p>
+<p>Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde,</p>
+<p>For all his art.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A more familiar saying is &quot;To beard a person,&quot; meaning to affront him,
+or to set him at defiance.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a> Todd explains the allusion in a note in his
+edition of Spenser's <em>Faerie Queene</em>&mdash;&quot;did beard affront him to his
+face&quot;; so Shakespeare's <em>King Henry IV.</em>, Part I. Act i.: &quot;I beard thee
+to thy face&quot;&mdash;Fr. &quot;Faire la Barbe a quelqu'un.&quot; Ital. &quot;Fa la barbe ad
+uno&quot; (Upton.)</p>
+
+<p>See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in <em>King Henry IV.</em>,
+which is adopted, he says, &quot;from romances, and originally signified to
+'cut off the beard.'&quot; Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly
+indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs
+attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to
+Achilles, as translated by Chapman:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&mdash;&quot;and so tell thy strength how eminent</p>
+<p>My power is, being compared with thine;</p>
+<p class="i2">all other making feare</p>
+<p>To vaunt equality with me, or in this</p>
+<p class="i2">proud kind beare</p>
+<p>Their beards against me.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>In Shirley's play, <em>A Contention for Honour and Riches</em>, 1633:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;You have worn a sword thus long to show y<sup>e</sup> hilt,</p>
+<p>Now let the blade appear.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Courtier</span>.&mdash;Good Captain Voice,</p>
+<p>It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet</p>
+<p>No ague, I can look upon your buff,</p>
+<p>And punto beard, and call for no strong waters.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>&quot;It is difficult to ascertain,&quot; says Repton, &quot;when the custom of pulling
+the nose superseded <a class="pagenum" name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>that of pulling the beard, but most probably when
+the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for
+insult.&quot; In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of
+Devonshire, paid &pound;30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court.
+An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's
+<em>Epic&aelig;ne, or the Silent Woman</em>, Act iv. sc. 5.</p>
+
+<p>In &quot;Aubrey's Letters&quot; is an allusion to wiping the beard. &quot;Ralph Kettle,
+D.D.,&quot; we read, &quot;preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in
+conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt
+up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from
+the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was
+their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return
+to wayte on their masters).&quot; An old play by Lyly, entitled <em>Mother
+Bombie</em> (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a
+handkerchief.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little
+book, &quot;Some account of the Beard and Moustachio,&quot; of which one hundred
+copies were printed for private circulation in 1839.</p>
+
+<p>The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard
+to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's <em>Antonio and Melida</em>,
+(1602), Act v., we read as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>&quot;<span class="smcap">Piero.</span>&mdash;Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<span class="smcap">Rossaline.</span>&mdash;Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy,
+forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long.
+Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of
+furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming
+chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios.
+We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking
+beards. &quot;There is no accounting,&quot; says Repton, &quot;for the taste of ladies.
+Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the
+heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may
+not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady
+(<em>i.e.</em> the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have
+a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the
+fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's
+beard is not recorded in the history of England.&quot; Many references find a
+place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard.</p>
+
+<p>Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if
+carefully performed. It is stated in the &quot;Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas,&quot;
+published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey
+merchant, that he was <a class="pagenum" name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>very nice in the mode of that age, his valet
+being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his
+whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a
+companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we
+have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect
+the beard from being disarranged.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>TAXING THE BEARD</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/b.png" width="100" height="100" alt="B" title="B" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">eards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the
+same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for
+nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement
+of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given
+up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the
+prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore
+either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred
+roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A
+peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to
+one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave
+rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it <a class="pagenum" name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>the utmost vigilance had
+to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding
+this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which
+had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained
+their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles
+annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was
+sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in
+1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this
+tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the
+edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726.</p>
+
+<p>A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in
+agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all
+other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a
+firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by
+which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were
+entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax
+of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes.</p>
+
+<p>In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all
+their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762,
+intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some
+stringent measures; but his <a class="pagenum" name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>sudden death prevented them from being put
+into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings
+in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed
+every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks,
+who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to
+return, and assigned land to them for their settlement.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image11.png">
+  <img src="images/image11-th.png" width="196" height="80"
+  alt="Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705."
+  title="Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Russian Beard Token, <abbr>A.D.</abbr> 1705.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodor&aacute;ia (the
+bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these
+tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth,
+moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription &quot;dinge
+vsatia,&quot; which means &quot;money received&quot;; the reverse bears the year in
+Russian characters (equivalent to &quot;1705 year&quot;), and the black eagle of
+the empire.</p>
+
+<p>Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the
+&quot;Numismatic Chronicle,&quot; volume vii., 1845. He says that <a class="pagenum" name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>beard-tokens
+are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin
+probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served
+their purpose for the year.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>POWDERING THE HAIR</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">n the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many
+circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We
+learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it
+was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of
+the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period
+gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. &quot;The hair of
+Commodus,&quot; it is stated on the authority of Herodian, &quot;glittered from
+its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust
+with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have
+been thought that his head was on fire.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons
+used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon
+pictures the beard and hair are often <a class="pagenum" name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>painted blue. Strutt supplies
+interesting notes on the subject. &quot;In some instances,&quot; he says, &quot;which,
+indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red
+colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt
+existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this
+period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing
+it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient
+Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably
+to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made
+of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was
+maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until
+after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen
+greatly increased the popularity of the practice.</p>
+
+<p>The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those
+of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled
+&quot;Wit's Recreations,&quot; 1640, the following appears under the heading of
+<em>Our Monsieur Powder-wig</em>:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet!</p>
+<p>How like a pageant he doth walk the street!</p>
+<p>See how his perfumed head is powdered ore;</p>
+<p>'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>In &quot;Musarum Delici&aelig;,&quot; 1655, we read:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p class="i2">&quot;At the devill's shopps you buy</p>
+<p class="i4">A dresse of powdered hayre,</p>
+<p class="i2">On which your feathers flaunt and fly;</p>
+<p class="i4">But i'de wish you have a care,</p>
+<p>Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder,</p>
+<p>Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared &quot;The Impartial Monitor.&quot;
+The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words:
+&quot;It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and
+shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these
+likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and
+scorn them for it.&quot; A <em>Loyal Litany</em> against the Oliverians runs thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;From a king-killing saint,</p>
+<p>Patch, powder, and paint,</p>
+<p class="i2">Libera nos, Domine.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Massinger, in the &quot;City Madam,&quot; printed in 1679, describing the dress of
+a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Since your husband was knighted, as I said,</p>
+<p>The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair</p>
+<p>Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art,</p>
+<p>Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds</p>
+<p>And richest orient pearls.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>John Gay, in his poem, &quot;Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of
+London,&quot; published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>&quot;Him like the Miller, pass with caution by,</p>
+<p>Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We learn from the &quot;Annals of the Barber-Surgeons&quot; some particulars
+respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, &quot;Mr John Brooks,&quot;
+it is stated, &quot;attended and produced a deed to which he requested the
+subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of
+Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a
+duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and
+of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no
+perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of
+alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents
+excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder,
+under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and &pound;50, and that any person
+who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and &pound;20.&quot; Other
+details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their
+support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the
+Bill through Parliament.</p>
+
+<p>A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the
+<em>Gentleman's Magazine</em> particulars of some convictions for using powder
+not made in accordance with the laws of the land. &quot;On the 20th October,
+1745,&quot; it is recorded, &quot;fifty-one barbers were convicted before the
+commissioners of excise, and fined in the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>penalty of &pound;20, for having in
+their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of
+Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers
+were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and
+powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any
+pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known
+as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went
+behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of
+powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In
+the <em>Rambler</em>, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that
+his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about
+with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat
+uncocked.</p>
+
+<p>We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an
+Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power,
+and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a
+guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet
+much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a
+considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as &pound;200,000 a year. Fox,
+with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious
+fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition <a class="pagenum" name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>were
+unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful
+rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most
+fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his &quot;get up&quot;
+about 1770, drawn from the <em>Monthly Magazine</em>: &quot;He had his chapeau-bas,
+his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder.&quot; Later, when Pitt's tax
+was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more
+than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their
+hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to
+a number of Crop Clubs. The <em>Times</em> for April 14th, 1795, contains
+particulars of one. &quot;A numerous club,&quot; says the paragraph, &quot;has been
+formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his
+entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of
+Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for
+the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads.&quot;
+Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society.
+The <em>Times</em> of April 25th, 1795, reports that: &quot;The following noblemen
+and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn
+Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took
+place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They
+entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>them
+wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many
+noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the
+example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the
+ladies have left off wearing powder.&quot; Hair powder did not long continue
+in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high
+price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the
+hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the
+&quot;Art of Dressing the Hair,&quot; 1770, the author complains:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Their hoarded grain contractors spare,</p>
+<p>And starve the poor to beautify the hair.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced
+&pound;210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three
+shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The
+Whigs might taunt them by calling them &quot;guinea-pigs,&quot; it mattered
+little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves,
+but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons
+were exempt from paying the tax, including &quot;the royal family and their
+servants, the clergy with an income of under &pound;100 per annum, subalterns,
+non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers
+enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two <a class="pagenum" name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>unmarried
+daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder.&quot;
+A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman,
+etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly
+engaged servants.</p>
+
+<p>Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with
+consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her
+desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was
+made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua
+Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is
+much more likely that the artists painted the hair &quot;full and flowing&quot;
+because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their
+patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to
+do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy,
+and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people
+discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use.
+With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of
+&quot;The Antiquary:&quot; &quot;Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an
+old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish,
+which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the
+operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided
+his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>&quot;'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'),
+holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an
+answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the
+provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah,
+sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane
+by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's
+time&mdash;and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi'
+the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day,
+Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted
+their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as
+they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on
+his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise
+against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons,
+and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my
+blocks.'&quot; It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic.
+&quot;In the eighteenth century,&quot; says Mrs G. Linn&aelig;us Banks, author of the
+&quot;Manchester Man&quot; and other popular novels, &quot;he waited on his chief
+customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to
+powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes.
+Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in
+advance, and sent <a class="pagenum" name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a
+barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered
+top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a
+rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least
+a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toup&eacute;e
+or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well
+understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser
+was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging
+the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering
+with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or
+disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep
+was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was
+rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of
+imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine
+ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong
+stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was
+heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account
+of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances
+sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers
+were fined sums from &pound;64, 5s. to<a class="pagenum" name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a> &pound;106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the
+matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should
+refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour.
+King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household
+to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to
+be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as
+was eaten by the servants.</p>
+
+<p>A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made
+to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation
+issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the
+office of the Town Clerk:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;<span class="smcap">Disuse of Hair Powder</span>.</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming
+     approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns
+     throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off
+     for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which
+     means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the
+     nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be
+     prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and
+     principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example
+     as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military
+     will not hesitate to <a class="pagenum" name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>adopt it, being fully convinced that
+     appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal,
+     and that in doing this they really do good.</p>
+
+<p>
+                              &quot;<span class="smcap">W. Taylor</span>, Mayor.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;January 27th, 1795.&quot;</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House
+of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked
+a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time,
+and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to
+the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it
+received the royal assent.</p>
+
+<p>We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull
+was fined &pound;10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having
+<ins class="correction" title="Original used &quot;been been&quot;">been</ins> baked, agreeable to
+Act of Parliament for that purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use
+hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent
+antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. &quot;So late as
+1820,&quot; says Dr Cox, &quot;Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for
+some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known
+clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder,
+and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous
+revolutionist.&quot;<a class="pagenum" name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a> In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only
+some 800 persons paid it, producing about &pound;1000 per year.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE AGE OF WIGS</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/a.png" width="100" height="100" alt="A" title="A" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">t the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of
+fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone
+times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear
+in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and
+style.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image12.png">
+  <img src="images/image12-th.png" width="174" height="174"
+  alt="Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+Museum."
+  title="Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+Museum." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+Museum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far
+distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians
+are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but
+as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On
+the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in
+the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female,
+and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in
+Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the
+head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from <a class="pagenum" name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>the rays
+of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to
+escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The
+specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair
+in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited
+hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if
+it had been hair growing on the head.</p>
+
+<p>Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is
+recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians,
+Carians, Greeks, and Romans. <em>Galerus</em>, a round cap, was the common name
+among the Romans for a wig.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the
+Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his
+simple sister Gorgonia, said &quot;she neither cared to curl her own hair,
+nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig.&quot; St Jerome
+pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter
+received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly,
+condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming
+down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even
+if worn as a joke. &quot;There is no joke in the matter,&quot; said the enraged St
+Bernard: &quot;the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin.&quot; St John
+Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be
+mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion.</p>
+
+<p>Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its
+authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing
+wigs. &quot;Pr&aelig;texta,&quot; to use Doran's words, &quot;was a very respectable lady,
+married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece,
+Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband,
+Pr&aelig;texta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress
+and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the
+modest maiden so attired, Pr&aelig;texta went to bed. To that bedside
+<a class="pagenum" name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows
+of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit,
+'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the
+hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this
+do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy
+crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months
+more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou
+art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and
+thy children shall die even before thee.'&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and
+the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so
+runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at
+church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind
+that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to
+the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them
+to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing.</p>
+
+<p>History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present
+investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated.
+Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have
+their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians
+were keenly alive to their <a class="pagenum" name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>ridiculous appearance. The king's general
+was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be
+imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became
+the pink of Lycian fashion.</p>
+
+<p>Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs,
+one to improve, and the other to disguise his person.</p>
+
+<p>Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen,
+but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of
+the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into
+this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not
+often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest
+payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and
+is for twenty shillings &quot;for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool.&quot;
+Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs,
+became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of
+Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court
+perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes.
+In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Acad&eacute;mie de France
+des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their
+heads. He tells us &quot;the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums
+spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of
+wigs at Court, <a class="pagenum" name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>and tried to introduce a kind of cap.&quot; He lost the day,
+for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went
+out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and
+some even cost &pound;200 apiece.</p>
+
+<p>Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal
+wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring
+the fashion to Whitehall. &quot;He forbade,&quot; we are told, &quot;the members of the
+Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons.
+The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the
+first two.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Pepys' &quot;Diary&quot; contains much interesting information concerning wigs.
+Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: &quot;I heard the Duke say that
+he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never
+till this day observed that the King is mighty gray.&quot; It was perhaps the
+change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume
+the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned.</p>
+
+<p>As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted
+the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with
+Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his &quot;Diary&quot; to
+one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, &quot;I did try <a class="pagenum" name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>two or
+three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no
+stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He
+trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my
+first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also.&quot;
+Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys
+was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys,
+and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at
+Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his
+&quot;Diary,&quot; that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it;
+but he said, &quot;I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to
+periwigs.&quot; Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: &quot;Lord's day.
+Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig,
+bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in
+Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in
+fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare
+to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the
+heads of people dead of the plague.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We learn from an entry in the &quot;Diary&quot; for June 11th, 1666, that ladies,
+in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs.
+&quot;Walking in the galleries at Whitehall,&quot; observes Mr Pepys, &quot;I find the
+ladies of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets
+with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their
+doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for
+long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them
+for women in any point whatever.&quot; Pepys, we have seen, wondered if
+periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he
+was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and
+its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore,
+perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of
+depression.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a href="images/image13.png">
+  <img src="images/image13-th.png" width="150" height="187"
+  alt="The Earl of Albemarle."
+  title="The Earl of Albemarle." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">The Earl of Albemarle.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable
+example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of
+Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig.
+Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket
+beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places,
+combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies.
+Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John
+Hawkins, in his &quot;History of Music,&quot; published in 1776, has an informing
+note on combing customs. &quot;On the Mall and in the theatre,&quot; he tells us,
+&quot;gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a
+fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his
+lev&eacute;e, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with
+large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs,
+while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb
+has passed through them.&quot; Allusions to this practice may be found in the
+plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We
+read in Dryden's prologue to &quot;Almanzor and Almahide&quot;:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;But as when vizard mask appears in pit,</p>
+<p>Straight every man who thinks himself a wit</p>
+<p>Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace,</p>
+<p>With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Says Congreve, in the &quot;Way of the World&quot;:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you.&quot;</p></blockquote>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a href="images/image14.png">
+  <img src="images/image14-th.png" width="131" height="300"
+  alt="Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (from a print of the
+period)."
+  title="Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (from a print of the
+period)." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Man with Wig and Muff, 1693<br /> (<em>from a print of the
+period</em>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thomas Brown, in his &quot;Letters from the Dead to the Living,&quot; presents a
+pen-portrait of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the
+eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as
+they contain valuable information concerning wigs. &quot;We met,&quot; says the
+writer, &quot;three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle
+made a most magnificent figure&mdash;his periwig was large enough to have
+loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I
+warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk,
+that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the
+bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left
+arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his
+cane, that hung <a class="pagenum" name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>negligently down in a string from his right arm,
+trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it
+was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself.&quot; About this
+period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad,
+describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84,
+mentions amongst those present:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff.&quot;</p></blockquote>
+
+<div class="figright">
+  <a href="images/image15.png">
+  <img src="images/image15-th.png" width="78" height="110"
+  alt="Campaign Wig."
+  title="Campaign Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Campaign Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase
+in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a
+few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his &quot;Academy of
+Armory,&quot; published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we
+will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called
+the campaign-wig. He says it &quot;hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each
+side, with a curled forehead.&quot; This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we
+have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig
+with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail.
+It was of various forms, and Swift says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;We who wear our wigs</p>
+<p>With fantail and with snake.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a class="pagenum" name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>
+  <a href="images/image16.png">
+  <img src="images/image16-th.png" width="90" height="76"
+  alt="Periwig with Tail."
+  title="Periwig with Tail." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Periwig with Tail.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A third example given by Holme is named the &quot;short-bob,&quot; and is a plain
+peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. &quot;Perukes,&quot; says Malcolm, in
+his &quot;Manners and Customs,&quot; &quot;were an highly important article in 1734.
+Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle
+ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five
+shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white,
+fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray
+bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of
+dark bobs. Those mixed with horsehair were much lower. It will be
+observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in
+fashion, and dark of no estimation.&quot; As time ran its course, wigs became
+more varied in form, and bore different names.</p>
+
+<div class="figright">
+  <a href="images/image17.png">
+  <img src="images/image17-th.png" width="57" height="129"
+  alt="Ramillie Wig."
+  title="Ramillie Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Ramillie Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black
+riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the
+long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough,
+gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave
+the title to a long wig described as &quot;having a long, gradually
+diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied
+with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>bottom.&quot; It was
+at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost
+the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity
+of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his &quot;Henry
+Esmond,&quot; as &quot;a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great
+periwig and red heels.&quot; Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the
+French king: &quot;Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he
+increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its
+similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was
+never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his
+practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his
+curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it
+to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great
+Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous.&quot; It is stated in
+Read's <em>Weekly Journal</em> of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of
+the Prince of Wales, that &quot;the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards
+wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order.&quot; This wig survived until
+the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms
+of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, <a class="pagenum" name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>was
+the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up
+in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was
+popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced
+to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is
+recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent,
+the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying,
+&quot;Ichabod, for the glory was departed.&quot;</p>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a href="images/image18.png">
+  <img src="images/image18-th.png" width="100" height="117"
+  alt="Pig-tail Wig."
+  title="Pig-tail Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Pig-tail Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and
+that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome.</p>
+
+<div class="figright">
+  <a href="images/image19.png">
+  <img src="images/image19-th.png" width="113" height="135"
+  alt="Bag-Wig."
+  title="Bag-Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Bag-Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as
+a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle
+of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual
+taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time.
+In this example may be <a class="pagenum" name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the
+frizziness over the forehead.</p>
+
+<p>We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait
+of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of
+Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication
+of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land.
+Farquhar, in a comedy called &quot;Love and a Bottle,&quot; brought out in 1698,
+says, &quot;A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the
+laurel.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to
+adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: &quot;I can remember since the
+wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first
+magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did
+either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and
+if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would
+point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal.&quot; Dr
+Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons,
+and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume,
+in 1765, was issued under the title of &quot;Free Advice to a Young
+Clergyman,&quot; from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he
+recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had
+made his own hair respectable. Dr<a class="pagenum" name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a> Randolph, on his advancement to the
+bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without
+wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said,
+&quot;My lord, you must have a wig.&quot; Bishops wore wigs until the days of
+William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to
+set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the
+marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in
+his wig.</p>
+
+<p>Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period:
+perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, &quot;The Mock
+Doctor,&quot; who exclaims, &quot;I must have a physician's habit, for a physician
+can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee.&quot; The wig
+known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Physic of old her entry made</p>
+<p>Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade;</p>
+<p>While the gilt cane, with solemn pride</p>
+<p>To each suspicious nose applied,</p>
+<p>Seemed but a necessary prop</p>
+<p>To bear the weight of wig at top.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song
+which commenced:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;If you would see a noble wig,</p>
+<p>And in that wig a man look big,</p>
+<p>To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy,</p>
+<p>And gaze on Dr Delmahoy.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>In the middle of the last century so much im<a class="pagenum" name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>portance was attached to
+this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was
+in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming:
+&quot;Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of
+Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to
+judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and
+curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head
+with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from
+five to six guineas.</p>
+
+<p>An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge
+Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. &quot;I hear your voice,&quot;
+sternly said his Lordship, &quot;but I cannot see you.&quot; The barrister had to
+obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would
+listen to him.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the
+peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He
+was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation.
+In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old
+judges did not wear them. &quot;True,&quot; said the king; &quot;the old judges wore
+beards.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both
+bench and bar discard<a class="pagenum" name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>ing the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at
+Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court,
+and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next
+day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their
+professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous
+day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the
+mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded.</p>
+
+<p>We learn from a report in the <em>Times</em> of July 24th, 1868, that on
+account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in
+the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared
+without wigs.</p>
+
+<p>On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case
+for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission
+to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at
+the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did
+were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition,
+to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and
+curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and
+frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It
+will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased
+the beauty of a pretty face.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore
+false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their
+hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image20.png">
+  <img src="images/image20-th.png" width="364" height="376"
+  alt="Heart-Breakers."
+  title="Heart-Breakers." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Heart-Breakers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not
+merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in
+England. From &quot;The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart,&quot; it
+appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it
+to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being
+false.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666.
+Coming down to later times, we read in the <em>Whitehall Evening Post</em> of
+August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards,
+the three eldest Princesses &quot;went to Richmond in riding habits, with
+hats, and feathers, and periwigs.&quot;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image21.png">
+  <img src="images/image21-th.png" width="252" height="195"
+  alt="With and Without a Wig."
+  title="With and Without a Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">With and Without a Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that
+its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of
+Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings,
+O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account
+<a class="pagenum" name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking
+to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, &quot;Take
+off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier.&quot; The witty
+Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd,
+by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald
+pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was
+scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly
+on O'Connell's side.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year
+1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public
+ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand,
+and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him,
+he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may
+be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his
+attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the
+wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it
+may be added, was short of hair.</p>
+
+<p>Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth
+century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. &quot;Had I
+lived in the reign of good Queen Anne,&quot; wrote Lord Lyttelton, &quot;my baby
+face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as
+that which bedecks the head and shoulders of<a class="pagenum" name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a> Mr Justice Blackstone when
+he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him.&quot; We learn
+from Miss Agnes Strickland that &quot;Marie Antoinette was the first person
+who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures
+of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue
+jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs
+and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been
+points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence,&quot; she
+says, when writing her history, &quot;who can remember, at six years old,
+joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte,
+dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered
+side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles.&quot;</p>
+
+<div class="figright">
+  <a href="images/image22.png">
+  <img src="images/image22-th.png" width="100" height="108"
+  alt="Lord Mansfield."
+  title="Lord Mansfield." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Lord Mansfield.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed
+wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord
+Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who
+had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but
+he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield,
+and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster
+Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is
+represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation,
+which was fully reported in the <em>Times</em> for<a class="pagenum" name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a> 1823. An action, it is
+stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to
+recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the
+possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig
+had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the
+legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told,
+he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The
+plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its
+recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the
+plaintiff the sum of &pound;2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>STEALING WIGS</h2>
+
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image23.png">
+  <img src="images/image23-th.png" width="400" height="329"
+  alt="Stealing a Wig."
+  title="Stealing a Wig." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Stealing a Wig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">n the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English
+gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden
+time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were
+not lost. Swift says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>&quot;Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs,</p>
+<p>Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are
+told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes
+a successful mode of operation: &quot;A boy was carried covered over in a
+butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by
+the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an
+accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence <a class="pagenum" name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>of assisting him
+while the tray-bearer made off.&quot; Gay, in <em>Trivia</em>, thus writes:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p>&quot;Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn:</p>
+<p>High on the shoulders in a basket borne</p>
+<p>Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred,</p>
+<p>Plucks off the curling honours of thy head.&quot;</p>
+</div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/o.png" width="100" height="100" alt="O" title="O" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">n February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets
+of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the
+peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A
+large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and
+distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might
+be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up
+for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the
+wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St
+James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but
+it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the
+metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not <a class="pagenum" name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>fare
+so well. &quot;As the distressed men went processionally through the town,&quot;
+says the account, &quot;it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who
+wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this
+striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and
+inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair
+per force.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters.
+&quot;Should we wonder,&quot; he writes, &quot;if carpenters were to remonstrate that
+since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?&quot; The wags of the
+period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to
+provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published
+purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to
+wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal
+presence with the same graceful decoration.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft">
+<img src="images/a.png" width="100" height="100" alt="A" title="A" />
+</div>
+<p class="noindent">t the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to
+realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a
+century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a
+fashion which has become general.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a> In the first year of the reign of
+Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at
+Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the
+moustache. The following Report is drawn from the <em>Times</em> of September
+21st, 1837: &quot;Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said
+he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad,
+applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant,
+under the following ludicrous circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most
+haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I
+goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates
+said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I.
+'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look
+like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a
+fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit
+half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot
+sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to
+have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they
+weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and
+stole my dinner out of the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want
+your advice respecting my mustachios.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off
+without loss of time.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: Can't part with a single hair.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had
+such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long
+hair hanging from his lip?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes
+me look like a man of some courage.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the
+fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself?
+It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with
+mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin,
+which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice,
+I can't assist you.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Applicant: No, they didn't.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: How's that?</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>&quot;Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only
+young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You
+may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The man with the mustachios then withdrew.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War
+had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use
+of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and
+attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in
+England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George
+Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable
+figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance,
+with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th
+July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache
+movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the
+representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in
+the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on
+Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was
+remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>Three Colonels, in three distant counties born,</p>
+<p>Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn.</p>
+<p>The first in matchless impudence surpass'd,</p>
+<p>The next in bigotry, in both the last,</p>
+<p>The force of nature could no further go,</p>
+<p>To beard the first she shaved the other two.</p>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated
+tribute to Milton.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+  <a href="images/image25.png">
+  <img src="images/image25-th.png" width="250" height="400"
+  alt="George Frederick Muntz, M.P."
+  title="George Frederick Muntz, M.P." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">George Frederick Muntz, M.P.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded
+politician. It is <a class="pagenum" name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow
+journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow
+progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the
+Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily
+hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party
+that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural
+population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the
+point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to
+succumb, and that he was &quot;determined to face it out.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused
+a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on
+a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not
+then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by
+his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half
+a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in
+his &quot;Backward Glances&quot; (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain
+Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the
+well-known editor of the <em>Scotsman</em>, to Loch Long, when he saw some
+carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. &quot;Sitting
+obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car,&quot; says the doctor, &quot;was a portly
+personage with <a class="pagenum" name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise
+distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry
+Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he
+had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on
+the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite
+impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense
+would never wear a moustache.'&quot; We may gather from the foregoing the
+prejudice of the period against facial adornments.</p>
+
+<p>From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of
+Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a
+moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, &quot;Jew, Jew,
+Jew,&quot; or &quot;Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy,&quot; and, if that did not make any
+impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten
+laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of
+a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial
+artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding
+town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he
+was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from
+the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many
+follow his lead.</p>
+
+<p>A teacher of music was the first to wear a <a class="pagenum" name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>moustache in Nottingham. He
+attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great
+curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music
+master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with
+whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won
+his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible
+young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was
+regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short
+engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the
+moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham.</p>
+
+<p>Mr W.&nbsp;P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing &quot;Autobiography,&quot; and
+devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to &quot;The Bearded
+Model.&quot; He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how
+at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day
+his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be
+teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. &quot;Why don't
+you get your 'air cut?&quot; said one. &quot;Yah! where's your bundle of old
+clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?&quot; said another,
+&quot;Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?&quot; and so on.
+All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey
+beard, then such a rarity. The <a class="pagenum" name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>young gentlemen had mistaken their man.
+He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew.
+How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present
+studies.</p>
+
+<p>Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent
+Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted
+their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr
+Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. &quot;I
+well remember,&quot; says Mr Frith, &quot;a book illustrator named Stuart, who,
+according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England
+instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent
+from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he
+was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his
+pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched
+into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous
+conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them
+forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The
+Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the
+treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that
+the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction
+of his utterly unreliable character and <a class="pagenum" name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>general dishonesty in
+consequence of his beard&mdash;one man going so far as to tell him it cost
+him &pound;200 a year&mdash;he refused to remove it.&quot; Mr Frith says when the
+Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme
+poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund
+established to meet cases like his.</p>
+
+<p>The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache
+movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England
+issued an order &quot;that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during
+business hours.&quot; It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order
+was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in
+the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid
+manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old
+servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face
+and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made
+shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to
+his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer
+to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him
+until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor.</p>
+
+<p>In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be
+dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should
+<a class="pagenum" name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about
+the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable
+authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors
+served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache.
+On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use
+of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example
+he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the
+adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught
+cold, and in a few days died.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+  <a href="images/image26.png">
+  <img src="images/image26-th.png" width="142" height="183"
+  alt="Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870."
+  title="Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870." />
+  </a>
+  <p class="caption">Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that
+any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was
+strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, &quot;Bench
+and Bar Reminis<a class="pagenum" name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>cences&quot; (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of
+our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and
+certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the
+face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of
+the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister,
+named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a
+long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave
+offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other
+exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held,
+and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action.
+Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge
+him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the
+ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was
+under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the
+unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea,
+a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the
+Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. &quot;This was,&quot; says
+Mr Serjeant Robinson, &quot;the worst that could befall him, for of course he
+could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the
+court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of
+carrying out <a class="pagenum" name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did
+not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared
+afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had
+been driven from practising his profession in the courts.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should
+appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth.</p>
+
+<p>Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the
+present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the
+martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the
+Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the
+military appearance of the citizen soldier.</p>
+
+<p>Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often
+contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In
+modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given
+rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the
+newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which
+included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches
+among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and
+against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more
+than one <a class="pagenum" name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>book dealing with the subject. An author issued &quot;An Apology
+for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in
+particular&quot; (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against
+shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in
+book form a &quot;Defence of the Beard.&quot; He dealt with his subject on
+scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow
+a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good
+taste. Mr. Ward asked, &quot;What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who
+would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?&quot; The artist set an
+example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the
+title-page of another work was declared: &quot;A Breach of the Sabbath, and a
+Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel.&quot; The writer designated himself
+&quot;Theologos.&quot; If his views were carried out, it would lead to the
+practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath
+anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High
+Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is
+discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks
+joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop
+was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give
+up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused
+towards the close of 1892 <a class="pagenum" name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>when it became known that the Archbishop of
+York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several
+quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard
+swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern
+Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He
+had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination,
+but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final
+effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not
+time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing
+so, and asked why he should. &quot;Well,&quot; said the chaplain, &quot;you see the
+saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches.&quot; &quot;That may
+be so,&quot; said the candidate, &quot;but as I am not intended to be a saint and
+stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899,
+Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph
+in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it
+out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. &quot;After
+a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next
+paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the
+curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took
+<a class="pagenum" name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has
+joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of
+His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I
+felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper
+and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in
+London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the
+reporters&mdash;I don't know which&mdash;in which he held up the Bishop of
+Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded
+their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the
+contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have
+thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their
+moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but
+a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply
+with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had
+of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this
+newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard&mdash;I have not seen
+it&mdash;that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of
+Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry
+after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example
+of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the
+most as<a class="pagenum" name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>tounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never
+said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would
+forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not
+personal to myself and to many of those in this tent.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. &quot;The
+vicar of an East London parish,&quot; said the bishop, &quot;was one of the first
+London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to
+stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent
+his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should
+otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied
+that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and
+would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the
+bishop retracted.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We are told in the &quot;Life of R.&nbsp;W. Dale&quot; (London, 1898) that this famous
+Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with &quot;long black
+hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane.&quot; In a year or two
+it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some
+hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were
+scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in
+protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers &quot;with an air of
+levity and worldliness.&quot; A letter of approval purported to <a class="pagenum" name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>come from
+the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H.&nbsp;D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had
+his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;<span class="smcap">Reverend and Bearded Sir</span>,&mdash;It rejoiced my shade to see
+     you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the
+     identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that
+     unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the
+     'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are.&quot;</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of
+the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. &quot;John, John!&quot; cried the
+reverend sufferer, &quot;it's a dreadful thing that drink!&quot; &quot;'Deed it is,
+sir,&quot; mildly assented John, &quot;it makes the skin unco tender.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the
+younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William
+Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be
+readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of
+reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was
+moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: &quot;That
+it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to
+wear a beard and moustache if they think fit.&quot; A week later, namely, on
+December 7th, at the Watch<a class="pagenum" name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a> Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and
+seconded by Mr Fountain: &quot;That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of
+December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and
+moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee.&quot; It was
+pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the
+passing of the resolution, that it would give a &quot;fierce appearance to
+the police.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the
+moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow
+their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and
+conditions of men.</p>
+
+<p>The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd
+came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of
+moustaches by his sons in the following terms: &quot;In case my son Edward
+shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper
+Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his
+appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall
+wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called
+Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said
+son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by <a class="pagenum" name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>his will, proved in 1869,
+left &pound;10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and
+to those who persisted in wearing them, &pound;5 only.</p>
+
+<p>In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: &quot;French
+motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs
+shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they
+declare to be a sanitary protection.&quot;<a class="pagenum" name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+	<table style="width:75%; text-align: center;" border="1" summary="">
+		<tr>
+			<td><a href="#IX_A">A</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_B">B</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_C">C</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_D">D</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_E">E</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_F">F</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_G">G</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_H">H</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_I">I</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_J">J</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_K">K</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_L">L</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_M">M</a></td>
+		</tr>
+		<tr>
+			<td><a href="#IX_N">N</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_O">O</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_P">P</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_Q">Q</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_R">R</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_S">S</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_T">T</a></td>
+			<td>U</td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_V">V</a></td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_W">W</a></td>
+			<td>X</td>
+			<td><a href="#IX_Y">Y</a></td>
+			<td>Z</td>
+
+		</tr>
+	</table>
+</div>
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_A" id="IX_A"></a>Absalom, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Age of wigs, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>-<a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Agrarian law repealed, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Albemarle, Earl of, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Duchess of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Alfreton, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Anne, Queen, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Assyrian sculptures, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li>"<em>Antiquarian Repertory</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>"<em>Athenian Oracle</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Aubrey, quoted, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_B" id="IX_B"></a>Bag-wig, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Ballad of the Beard, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>-<a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Banks, Mrs G. Linnæus, quoted, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Banks and the moustache, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Bar and the moustache, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Barber's pole, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Barber's shop, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>-<a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>separate, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Barbers' Company, first Master of the, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Barnard Castle, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Barristers without wigs, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Bayeux tapestry, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Beard protection against neuralgia, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Beardie Scott, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Beardless Britons, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Bible, quoted, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Bleeding at Northallerton, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Blomfield, Bishop, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Boxing the beard, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Brand's "Popular Antiquities," <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li><em>British Apollo</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Britons, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Brontë, Rev. P., story about, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Bygone beards, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-<a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_C" id="IX_C"></a>Campaign wig, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Canterbury, Sheriff of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavaliers, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Chair, barber's, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>II., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Charlotte, Queen, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Chaucer, quoted, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Chester barber-surgeons, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Church denounces wigs, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>denounces moustache, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Churchyards, barbers shave in, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>Cloth of gold, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Cockburn, Judge, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Combing the wig, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Congreve, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>"<em>Comenii Orbis Pictus</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Comenius, Bishop, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Contractors and the moustache, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Cox, Rev. Dr J.&nbsp;C., quoted, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Crimean War, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Crop clubs, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Curing a joking duke, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Cyprus customs, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_D" id="IX_D"></a>Dale, R.&nbsp;W., <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Defence of the beard, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Delmahoy's wig, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Demanding the beard, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Disuse of hair powder, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Doran, Dr, quoted, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Drury Lane, five women barbers of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Dryden, quoted, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Duke and barber's boy, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Dyeing the beard, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_E" id="IX_E"></a>Earliest mention of the beard, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Early gild in London, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Eastern potentate, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Eden, Dr, and the moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Egyptian wigs, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Eldon, Lord, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Epigram on three colonels, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_F" id="IX_F"></a>Fairholt, F.&nbsp;W., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>False hair worn by women, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Farquhar, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Female follies, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Fined for wearing beards, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>First illustrated school book, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Forfeits, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>-<a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Fox, C.&nbsp;J., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>France, wig mania in, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Free advice to a young clergyman, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Frith, W.&nbsp;P., "Autobiography" quoted, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>From barber to surgeon, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>-<a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Frost fair, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_G" id="IX_G"></a>Gallants, gathering of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Galley-pot, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Garrick, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Gauls, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Gay, J., quoted, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li><em>Gentleman's Magazine</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>George III. and wig-makers, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>sets his subjects a good example, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>IV. and Dr Randolph, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Gold-dust used as hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Grain, high price of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Great seal, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Guitar, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_H" id="IX_H"></a>Hannibal, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Hastings, Battle of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>Heart-Breakers, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry VI., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Hentzner, quoted, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>High Church clergymen, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Hodgson, Professor, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Holbein's picture, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Holme, R., quoted, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>House of Peers, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>How, Dr Walsham, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Hull baker fined, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
+<li>policemen and the moustache, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+<li>timber merchant and the moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li></ul></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_I" id="IX_I"></a>"Impartial Monitor," quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Incorporation of Barbers, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Irish Shaving Statute, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_J" id="IX_J"></a>Jewish custom, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Jews used hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Johnson, Dr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Julius II., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Juvenile wigs, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_K" id="IX_K"></a>Kauffmann, A., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Kenealy, Dr, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Kenrick, Dr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>King's barber, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Knox, John, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_L" id="IX_L"></a>Last barber-surgeon in London, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Laud, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>"Letters from the Dead to the Living," <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Lichfield, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Lincoln's Inn and the beard, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>London women barbers, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Lord's Day observance, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis XIV., <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Louth, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Lowe, Rev. H.&nbsp;D., <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>"Loyal Litany," quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Lyttelton, Lord, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_M" id="IX_M"></a>Macedonian soldiers, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Maclaren, C., editor of the <em>Scotsman</em>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Magistrate and the moustache, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Malcolm, quoted, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Manner of using hair powder, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Mansfield, Lord, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Marie Antoinette, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Marston, quoted, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Mary Queen of Scots, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Massinger, quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Medical men and wigs, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Ministers shaving on Sunday, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Missal, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Mock doctor, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>More, Rev. J., <a href="#Page_36">36</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Moustache and the motor-car, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>movement, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>-<a href="#Page_115">115</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Muffs, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Muntz, G.&nbsp;F., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Music, barber's, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_N" id="IX_N"></a>Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a><em>Notes and Queries</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_O" id="IX_O"></a>Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>O'Connell, D., <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_P" id="IX_P"></a>Paris, massacre of, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Pepys, quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Percival, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Periwig with tail, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Peter the Great, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Phlebotomy, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>-<a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Pig-tail, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitt, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Plucking the beard, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Poetical signs, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Politics and the moustache, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Pontefract, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Powdering the hair, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>-<a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Pulling the nose, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Puritans, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_Q" id="IX_Q"></a>"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_R" id="IX_R"></a>"Rambler," quoted, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Ramillies, Battle of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>wig, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Reading regulations, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Red rag, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Reform Bill, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Repton, J.&nbsp;A., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Retailer of scandal, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Rogers, Dr C., quoted, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Romans and hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Russian laws, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-<a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Ryle, Bishop, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_S" id="IX_S"></a>Sandy-coloured hair, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Saxons and hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Sayings, old, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-<a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Saywell, Rev. J.&nbsp;L., quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Scarborough, woman barber at, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Sealing custom, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Shakespeare, quoted, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Shaving heads, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheppard, Mr, M.P., <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Shirley, quoted, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Short-bob, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Sibthorp, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Speaker's wig, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Starching the beard, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Stealing wigs, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>-<a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Stephen, King, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Stow, quoted, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Stratford-on-Avon, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Street frays, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Strickland, Agnes, quoted, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Strutt, quoted, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Stuart, artist, story of, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Stubbes, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Stupid barbers unknown, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Sumner, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Sunday shaving, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Swift, quoted, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>-<a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_T" id="IX_T"></a>Taxing hair-powder, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>the beard, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-<a href="#Page_59">59</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Taylor the Water Poet, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>"Thirsk Forfeits," <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Thurlow, Lord, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Tichborne trial, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiles, fine of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Tillotson, Dr, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Timbs, John, quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li><em>Times</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Token, beard, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Tours, Edict of, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tragic story, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_V" id="IX_V"></a>Verner, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Vizetelly, quoted, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_W" id="IX_W"></a>Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Walpole, Horace, quoted, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>Ward, James, quoted, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Wesleyans and the beard, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li><em>Whitehall Evening Post</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Wig-makers' riot, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Williams, noted barber, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Wills and the moustache, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>With and without wigs, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>"Wits' Recreations," quoted, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Women barbers, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>-<a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Working hours, long, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Workshop and Sunday shaving, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="IX_Y" id="IX_Y"></a>Yarmouth, curious bill at, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>York, Archbishop of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Gild of Barber-Surgeons, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li></ul></li>
+
+<li>"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+Project Gutenberg's At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by William Andrews
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole
+       Studies In Hirsute History
+
+Author: William Andrews
+
+Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online
+Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+Wigs in Parliament.]
+
+
+
+
+                            AT THE SIGN
+                        OF THE BARBER'S POLE
+
+                     STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY
+
+
+                                BY
+                          WILLIAM ANDREWS
+
+                     AUTHOR OF "BYGONE ENGLAND"
+                                ETC.
+
+
+
+
+                       COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE
+                           J.R. TUTIN
+                               1904
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Connected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of
+history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust
+not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting
+matters that gather round the man and his trade.
+
+In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted,
+and among those which have yielded me the most information must be
+mentioned the following:--
+
+     "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London," by Sidney Young, London,
+     1890.
+
+     "An Apology for the Beard," by Artium Magister, London, 1862.
+
+     "Barbers' Company," by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881.
+
+     "Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers," by D. Embleton, M.D.,
+     Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891.
+
+     "Barber's Shop," by R.W. Proctor, edited by W.E.A. Axon,
+     Manchester, 1883.
+
+     "Philosophy of Beards," by T.S. Cowing, Ipswich.
+
+     "Some Account of the Beard and the Moustachio," by John Adey
+     Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839.
+
+     "Why Shave?" by H.M., London.
+
+_Notes and Queries_, and other periodicals, as well as encyclopaedias,
+books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous
+friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with
+gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to _Notes
+and Queries_.
+
+Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but
+all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them.
+
+In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the
+byways of history.
+
+
+                                                        WILLIAM ANDREWS.
+
+    ROYAL INSTITUTION, HULL,
+      _August 11th_, 1904.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                       PAGE
+THE BARBER'S POLE                         1
+
+THE BARBER'S SHOP                         8
+
+SUNDAY SHAVING                           21
+
+FROM BARBER TO SURGEON                   26
+
+BYGONE BEARDS                            33
+
+TAXING THE BEARD                         56
+
+POWDERING THE HAIR                       59
+
+THE AGE OF WIGS                          71
+
+STEALING WIGS                            93
+
+THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT                     95
+
+THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT                   96
+
+INDEX                                   117
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                           PAGE
+The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole.
+   Wigs in Parliament                              _Frontispiece_
+
+The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus"                         3
+
+A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth                10
+
+William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)                  15
+
+Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons                     29
+
+Bayeux Tapestry                                               34
+
+John Knox, born 1505, died 1572                               37
+
+John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654             38
+
+The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret
+  through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord
+  Mayor                                                       39
+
+Beards in the Olden Time                                      42
+
+The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+  immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in
+  Fashion in 1605                                             45
+
+Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400                  52
+
+Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705                                58
+
+Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+  Museum                                                      72
+
+The Earl of Albemarle                                         78
+
+Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the period_)    80
+
+Campaign Wig                                                  81
+
+Periwig with Tail                                             82
+
+Ramillie Wig                                                  83
+
+Pig-tail Wig                                                  84
+
+Bag-Wig                                                       84
+
+Heart-Breakers                                                89
+
+With and Without a Wig                                        90
+
+Lord Mansfield                                                93
+
+Stealing a Wig                                                94
+
+George Frederick Muntz, M.P.                                 100
+
+Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870                        106
+
+
+
+
+THE BARBER'S POLE
+
+
+In most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of
+shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the
+pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of
+the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and
+fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and
+meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct
+solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant
+times. An attempt is made in "The Athenian Oracle" (i. 334), to trace
+the remote origin of the pole. "The barber's art," says the book, "was
+so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome
+had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they
+were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those
+beautiful leeches, [Footnote: This is the old word for doctors or
+surgeons.] our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In
+cities and corporate towns they still retain their name
+Barber-Chirurgeons. They therefore used to hang their basons out upon
+poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller
+where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still
+gibbet their signs, across a town." It is a doubtful solution of the
+origin of the barber's sign.
+
+[Illustration: The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."]
+
+A more satisfactory explanation is given in the "Antiquarian Repertory."
+"The barber's pole," it is there stated, "has been the subject of many
+conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or
+head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the
+true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master
+of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a
+beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put
+in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The
+white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the
+fillet thus elegantly twined about it." We reproduce a page from
+"Comenii Orbis Pictus," perhaps better known under its English title of
+the "Visible World." It is said to have been the first illustrated
+school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in
+1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the
+writer of many works, including the "Visible World: or a Nomenclature,
+and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's
+Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper Cuts." Under each picture
+are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in
+English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was
+able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other
+"chief things that are in the World." For a century this was the most
+popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than
+fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest
+the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's
+reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a
+patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds
+in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is
+stated in Brand's "Popular Antiquities" that an illustration in a missal
+of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice.
+
+In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of
+postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from
+July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a
+statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a
+pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no
+other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other
+respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the
+particular nature of their vocation.
+
+A question is put in the _British Apollo_ (London, 1708):--
+
+    "... Why a barber at port-hole
+    Puts forth a party-coloured pole?"
+
+This is the answer given:--
+
+    "In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting,
+    And wounds and scars took much delight in,
+    Man-menders then had noble pay,
+    Which we call surgeons to this day.
+    'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole,
+    With bason deck'd should grace the hole,
+    To guide the wounded, who unlopt
+    Could walk, on stumps the others hopt;
+    But, when they ended all their wars,
+    And men grew out of love with scars,
+    Their trade decaying; to keep swimming
+    They joyn'd the other trade of trimming,
+    And on their poles to publish either,
+    Thus twisted both their trades together."
+
+During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was
+advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by
+the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when
+busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence,
+adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small
+public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two
+businesses he might make a better living for his family.
+
+"Indeed," said the future Dean, "and what can I do to promote the happy
+union?"
+
+"And please you," said the barber, "some of our customers have heard
+much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend
+to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it
+might be the making of me and mine for ever."
+
+"But what do you intend for your sign?" inquired the cleric.
+
+"The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one
+hand and a full pot in the other."
+
+"Well," rejoined Swift, "in that case there can be no great difficulty
+in supplying you with a suitable inscription." Taking up a pen he
+instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the
+sign and remained there for many years:--
+
+    "Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here,
+    Where nought excels the shaving but--the beer."
+
+Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from
+Goldsmith as follows:--
+
+    "Man wants but little beard below,
+    Nor wants that little long."
+
+A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign
+having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and
+Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the
+following terse epigram:--
+
+    "Passans, contemplez le malheur
+      D'Absalom pendu par la nuque;
+    Il aurait evite ce malheur,
+      S'il eut porte une perruque."
+
+The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as
+follows:--
+
+    "The wretched Absalom behold,
+      Suspended by his flowing hair:
+    He might have 'scaped this hapless fate
+      Had he chosen a wig to wear."
+
+
+
+
+THE BARBER'S SHOP
+
+
+The old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a
+notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved,
+cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices.
+When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed
+the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which
+he was not slow to make known--in confidence, and in an undertone, of
+course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor;
+urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of
+this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and
+never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber.
+
+Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts
+have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that
+compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the
+following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading
+Corporation: "Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man
+after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from
+Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the
+town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand
+tiles to the Guildhall."
+
+[Illustration: A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.]
+
+In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country
+thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or
+take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the
+barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the
+gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds
+dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter,
+and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn
+came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios
+curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop
+at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an
+establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a
+barber's shop in Greene's "Quip for an Upstart Courtier," published in
+1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair,
+and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address
+him: "Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian
+manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make
+it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears
+and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will you be
+Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may
+wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen
+scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready
+to execute your worship's will." A couple of hours were spent in combing
+and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's
+basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and
+with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be
+shaven; "whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable
+like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a
+lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his
+crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a
+razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his
+moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce
+and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?--and with
+every question a snip of the scissors and a bow." If a poor man entered
+the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a
+cheese, and dismissed with scarce a "God speed you."
+
+The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers.
+No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the
+Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and
+the mean style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the
+common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. "And," wrote Stubbes with
+indignation, "they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore,
+when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to
+look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern
+in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of
+cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done
+all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be
+preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one
+ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead.
+Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking
+and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing,
+what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure.
+And when they come to washing--oh, how gingerly they behave themselves
+therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam
+that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they
+use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then
+snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended,
+comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must
+be picked, and closed together again, artificially, forsooth! The hair
+of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to
+behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest
+these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their
+pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at
+all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they
+will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any
+again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off
+his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque
+simillimae cygnis--rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans.
+You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you
+shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall
+sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in
+the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'"
+
+John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his "Fables," and in the one
+entitled "The Goat Without a Beard" we get a description of the barber's
+shop of the period:--
+
+    "His pole, with pewter basins hung,
+    Black, rotten teeth in order strung,
+    Rang'd cups that in the window stood,
+    Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood,
+    Did well his threefold trade explain,
+    Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein."
+
+The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:--
+
+    "Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides:
+    Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides."
+
+Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits
+used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which
+were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the
+customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight
+of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the
+following:--
+
+    For handling the razors,
+    For talking of cutting throats,
+    For calling hair-powder flour,
+    For meddling with anything on the shop-board.
+
+Shakespeare alludes to this custom in "Measure for Measure," Act v. sc.
+1, as follows:--
+
+              "The strong statutes
+    Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop,
+    As much in mock as mark."
+
+[Illustration: William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).]
+
+Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop
+in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an
+apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a
+barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that
+the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to
+have been in use for centuries. The following lines have found their
+way into several works, including Ingledew's "Ballads and Songs of
+Yorkshire" (1860). In some collections the lines are headed "Rules for
+Seemly Behaviour," and in others "The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits." We
+draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we
+have seen:--
+
+    "First come, first served--then come not late,
+    And when arrived keep your sate;
+    For he who from these rules shall swerve
+    Shall pay his forfeit--so observe.
+
+    "Who enters here with boots and spurs
+    Must keep his nook, for if he stirs
+    And gives with arm'd heel a kick,
+    A pint he pays for every prick.
+
+    "Who rudely takes another's turn
+    By forfeit glass--may manners learn;
+    Who reverentless shall swear or curse
+    Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse.
+
+    "Who checks the barber in his tale,
+    Shall pay for that a gill of yale;
+    Who will or cannot miss his hat
+    Whilst trimming pays a pint for that.
+
+    "And he who can but will not pay
+    Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away;
+    For will he--nill he--if in fault,
+    He forfeit must in meal or malt.
+
+    "But mark, the man who is in drink
+    Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink."
+
+The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his
+review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated
+that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter
+has been discussed at some length in _Notes and Queries_, and it is
+asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on
+the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869.
+
+Women barbers in the olden time were by no means uncommon in this
+country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they
+handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by
+stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town
+to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the
+journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we
+meet with allusions to "the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane,"
+who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of
+Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of
+them.
+
+At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand
+was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St
+Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman
+wielder of the razor is mentioned in the "Topography of London," by J.T.
+Smith. "On one occasion," writes Smith, "that I might indulge the humour
+of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in
+Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her
+husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe."
+He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street.
+
+Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to
+Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was
+postponed until they arrived at the watering-place. Shortly after
+leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their
+faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise
+and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear
+to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of
+brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the
+customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right
+hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished
+without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave
+at Scarborough by a woman barber.
+
+At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop
+kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his
+work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have
+shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men.
+
+Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting
+barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as
+related to us. The Duke of C---- upon one occasion entered a small
+barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was
+answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. "Can you
+shave, then?" asked the duke. "Yes, sir, I always do," was the reply.
+"But can you shave without cutting?" "Yes, sir, I'll try," answered the
+youth. "Very well," said the duke, while seating himself, and loading
+his pistol; "but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here
+I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin." After a
+moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, "I'm not
+afraid of cutting you, sir," and in a short time had completed the feat
+without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle
+tones his grace asked, "Were you not afraid of having your brains blown
+out, when you might have cut me so easily?"
+
+"No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen
+to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your
+throat."
+
+The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to
+be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A
+lesson was taught him for life.
+
+The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the
+most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his
+mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the
+barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the
+future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against
+summary execution.
+
+With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated an amusing story, in
+which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure
+of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous,
+and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the
+master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up
+to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar
+was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the
+dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the
+room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he
+deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the
+charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the
+guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends.
+Farquhar was not satisfied. "I am certain," he said, "that the little
+humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this
+morning." The host returned to the room and related the story which he
+had just heard. "Ay, yes," replied the guest, who was a well-born
+gentleman, "I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the
+barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and
+the barber was out, I shaved him."
+
+The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions
+to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a
+customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time
+playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a "barber's cittern for every
+serving-man to play upon." Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at
+the barber's shop. In the "Diary of Samuel Pepys" we read: "After supper
+my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks
+with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my
+lord was well pleased." "My Lord was easily satisfied," says a
+well-known contributor to _Punch_, "and in our day would probably have
+enjoyed 'the horgans.'" We may rest assured that barber's music was of
+questionable melody.
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAY SHAVING
+
+
+In bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs
+and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to
+shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of
+Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was
+restrained.
+
+The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's
+Day observance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten
+shillings, "that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop
+on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks." Another
+law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:--"This court, taking
+notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the
+Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and
+cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the
+Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole
+consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at
+any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse,
+barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public
+or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or
+place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the
+same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord
+Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and
+adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that
+then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence
+10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said
+Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to
+the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being
+are to make diligent search in all such as aforesaid public or private
+places for discovery of such offenders."
+
+The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester
+shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:--
+
+"1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his
+servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly
+called Sunday."
+
+In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is
+stated: "Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of
+the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their
+respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the
+high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the
+future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise
+the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's
+Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon
+that day, either publicly or privately." We have in the last clause an
+indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market
+place.
+
+The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid
+half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves "not to
+shave on Sundays in the morning."
+
+At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it
+was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that "no brother
+should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto."
+
+The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a
+Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the
+settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they
+can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr
+Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone,
+presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the
+Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was
+delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what
+they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath.
+
+The Rev. Patrick Bronte, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual
+Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense
+of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of
+the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make
+known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and
+failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an
+anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local
+lore. When Mr Bronte resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village
+that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving
+himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious
+disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a
+clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview
+with Mr Bronte on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he
+observed: "I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I
+never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else.
+I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all
+that is necessary."
+
+Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the
+magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of
+Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five
+shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the
+defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the
+action.
+
+
+
+
+FROM BARBER TO SURGEON
+
+
+From the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the
+surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession
+would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted
+from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great
+antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions
+to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of
+mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber
+were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in
+bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his
+position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of
+wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 B.C.,
+and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met.
+Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in B.C. 299.
+
+The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies
+as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers
+gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical
+operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and
+it was felt that this was incompatible with the functions of the
+clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of
+Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons,
+but they were permitted to dispense medicine.
+
+The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they
+were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change
+afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the
+barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner.
+It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention
+of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in
+London to have the blood "privately carried into the Thames under the
+pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs."
+
+At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a
+gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object
+was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They
+attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives.
+Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and
+subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first
+master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As
+time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance.
+In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were
+incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding
+monarchs.
+
+A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of
+Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the
+Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the
+Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this
+"not a pleasant though a good picture." It is the largest and last work
+of Holbein.
+
+The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed
+after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak
+boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly
+altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures
+represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the
+healing art of the period at which it was painted.
+
+[Illustration: Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.]
+
+In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the
+barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: "No
+person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery,
+letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth." Laws were
+made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The
+barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons increased their
+income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however,
+vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work.
+
+The Rev. J.L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his "History and Annals
+of Northallerton" (1885). "Towards the early part of the nineteenth
+century," observes Mr Saywell, "a singular custom prevailed in the town
+and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the
+year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females,
+repaired to a surgeon to be bled--a process which they considered
+essentially conduced to vigorous health." The charge for this operation
+was one shilling.
+
+Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be
+exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled
+without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request
+was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges
+granted so long ago.
+
+In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of
+Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in
+London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only
+dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he
+had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry.
+
+Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious
+epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as
+follows:--
+
+     "Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury,
+     Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October
+     1699.
+
+    =T=hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye,
+    =H=ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye,
+    =O=bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store,
+    =M=ingled with common earth till time's no more.
+    =A=gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine,
+    =S=ince So much Merrett did his life resigne.
+
+    =M=urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave,
+    =E=lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have.
+    =R=est in Peace; who like a faithful steward,
+    =R=epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd;
+    =E=ternall mansions do attend the Just,
+    =T=o clothe with Immortality their dust,
+    =T=ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust."
+
+
+Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a
+stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale,
+barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah
+Bloodworth. It ends thus:--
+
+     "Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace
+     1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th
+     yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives.
+
+    This thing in life might raise some jealousy,
+    Here all three lie together lovingly,
+    But from embraces here no pleasure flows,
+    Alike are here all human joys and woes;
+    Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears,
+    And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears;
+    A period's come to all their toylsome lives
+    The good man's quiet; still are both his wives."
+
+
+
+
+
+BYGONE BEARDS
+
+
+The history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with
+our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past
+than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character.
+We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where
+Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a
+little later he forbids the Israelites to "mar the corners" of it.
+David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to
+the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to
+the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of
+their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent
+out to meet them, saying, "Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown,
+and then return." To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a
+mark of the deepest grief.
+
+[Illustration: Bayeux Tapestry.
+
+The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army,
+is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.]
+
+To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons
+did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long,
+and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his
+progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to
+obtain an idea as to the strength of the enemy. On their return they
+stated among other things that "the host did almost seem to be priests,
+because they had all their face and both their lips shaven," a statement
+borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux
+tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the
+broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had
+been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the
+conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair
+long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped
+and shaven masters.
+
+Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to
+allow his beard to grow, "in order," as he said, "to inspire the
+greater respect among the faithful." A curious custom of the Middle Ages
+was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of
+the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another
+instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations
+comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of
+England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern
+monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented.
+"Had my master measured wisdom by the beard," was the ready retort, "he
+would have sent a goat."
+
+It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth
+century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up
+by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not
+appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the
+beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters
+attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn
+prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table,
+unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was
+before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to "poll their hair,"
+and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the
+amount was graduated according to the condition of the person wearing
+this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the
+Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of
+Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another
+paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next
+reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She
+sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number,
+George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in
+length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan
+the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and
+we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new
+toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put
+his beard aside, saying, "It hath done no treason." John Knox (born 1505
+and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so
+largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the
+length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and
+after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the
+worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name
+of "the Apostle of Norwich." His beard was the largest and longest of
+any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing
+his beard of unusual size "that no act of his life might be unworthy of
+the gravity of his appearance." He died at Norwich in 1592.
+
+[Illustration: John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.]
+
+[Illustration: John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654.]
+
+In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to
+add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above
+a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken
+seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature
+for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's
+reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and to cut
+it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the
+first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the
+poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, "the Water Poet," are
+among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show
+considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of
+his day. In his "Superbiae Flagellum," he describes a great variety of
+beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:--
+
+    "Now a few lines to paper I will put,
+    Of men's beards strange, and variable cut,
+    In which there's some that take as vain a pride
+    As almost in all other things beside;
+    Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush,
+    Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush;
+    And in my time of some men I have heard,
+    Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard;
+    Many of these the proverb well doth fit,
+    Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit:
+    Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine,
+    Like to the bristles of some angry swine;
+    And some to set their love's desire on edge,
+    Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge;
+    Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,
+    Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare;
+    Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like,
+    That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike;
+    Some with the hammer cut, or roman T,
+    Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be;
+    Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion,
+    Some circular, some oval in translation;
+    Some perpendicular in longitude;
+    Some like a thicket for their crassitude;
+    That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,
+    And rules geometrical in Beards are found."
+
+[Illustration: Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through
+York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.]
+
+Some curious lines appear in "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume,"
+edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society,
+1849. The piece which is entitled "The Ballad of the Beard," is
+reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled "Le Prince d'Amour,"
+1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not
+earlier. "The varied form of the beard," says Fairholt, "which
+characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on,
+and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the
+first half of the seventeenth century." Taylor, the Water Poet, has
+alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have
+so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a
+curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J.A. Repton, F.S.A., on the
+various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like "the Roman T,"
+mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut--Fig. 1--from
+a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book.
+
+[Illustration: Beards in the Olden Time]
+
+The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The
+needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or
+spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book.
+The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial
+illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's
+"Heraldry." He calls it "the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops,
+and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards." "The beard
+of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing
+accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not
+subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the
+words of the song." We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in
+fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:--
+
+    "The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin,
+      Doth dwell so near the tongue,
+    That her silence on the beard's defence
+      May do her neighbour wrong.
+
+    Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king,
+      Be his sceptres ne'er so fair:
+    Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey,
+      And are subject to a hair.
+
+    'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight,
+      That adorns both young and old;
+    A well thatcht face is a comely grace,
+      And a shelter from the cold.
+
+    When the piercing north comes thundering forth,
+      Let barren face beware;
+    For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind,
+      To shave the face that's bare.
+
+    But there's many a nice and strange device,
+      That doth the beard disgrace;
+    But he that is in such a foolish sin,
+      Is a traitor to his face.
+
+    Now the beards there be of such a company,
+      And fashions such a throng,
+    That it is very hard to handle a beard,
+      Tho' it never be so long.
+
+    The Roman T, in its bravery,
+      Doth first itself disclose,
+    But so high it turns, that oft it burns
+      With the flames of a too red nose.
+
+    The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared,
+      It is so sharp beneath,
+    For he that doth place a dagger in 's face,
+      What wears he in his sheath?
+
+    But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich
+      The needle-beard to amend,
+    Which, without any wrong, I may call too long,
+      For man can see no end.
+
+    The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd
+      In figure like a spade,
+    With which he'll make his enemies quake,
+      And think their graves are made.
+
+    The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin,
+      Shall not my verse despise;
+    It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet
+      It grates poor prisoners' eyes.
+
+    What doth invest a bishop's breast
+      But a milk-white spreading hair?
+    Which an emblem may be of integrity,
+      Which doth inhabit there.
+
+    But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry,
+      That grows about the chin,
+    With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side,
+      And a champion ground between.
+
+    Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush,
+      Which may be well endur'd."
+
+Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great
+artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole
+of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject
+that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we
+are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that
+with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:--
+
+    "Now of beards there be such company,
+      Of fashions such a throng,
+    That it is very hard to treat of the beard,
+      Tho' it be never so long."
+
+It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor
+everywhere keeping down its growth.
+
+[Illustration: The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published
+immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.]
+
+Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called "Beardie." He was an
+ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard
+until the Stuarts were restored. "It would have been well," said the
+novelist, "if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting
+his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he
+lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of
+being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of
+Buccleuch and Monmouth." Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to
+Canto VI. of "Marmion":--
+
+    "With amber beard and flaxen hair,
+    And reverend apostolic air.
+    Small thought was his, in after time
+    E'er to be pitched into a rhyme.
+    The simple sire could only boast
+    That he was loyal to his cost;
+    The banish'd race of kings revered,
+    And lost his land--but kept his beard."
+
+He died in 1729 at Kelso. "Beardie's" second son, named Robert, was a
+farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather.
+
+A contributor to _Notes and Queries_, for October 1st, 1859, gives the
+following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to
+Ireland:--"In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of
+Shrewsbury, then Lord-Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was
+enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be
+used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to
+the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout
+Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who
+became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the
+treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two
+benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his
+followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated
+properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated
+Hair-breadth estates." The effects of this statute became so alarming
+that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found
+it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This
+agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred
+years.
+
+The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their
+beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth
+chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from
+remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran
+tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. "When the Jew," says the
+doctor, "who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the
+great Spaniard was dead, he contrived to get into the room where the
+body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously
+plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was
+plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and
+starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the
+Jew by mere fright which it caused." In Afghanistan "the system of
+administering justice was such," says the "Life of Abdur Rahman"
+(London, 1890) "that the humble were able to bring their claims before
+the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's
+beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of
+his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the
+Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed
+into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard
+from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It
+was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was
+no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to
+leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being
+pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the
+fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that
+in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum."
+
+Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be
+touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief
+will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining
+volume "From Cyprus to Zanzibar" (London, 1901), tells some good stories
+about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as
+it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a
+few years. "On one occasion," he says, "when I happened to be in the
+bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all
+the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their
+shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause.
+Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had
+shaved off a priest's beard." The priest had been imprisoned for felling
+a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in
+force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and
+beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The
+authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox
+Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High
+Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in
+future his hair and beard were to be left alone.
+
+Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as
+follows.
+
+A familiar example is "To pull the devil by the beard." When Archbishop
+Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, "If I should get
+into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries
+there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to
+pull me by the beard." This insulting saying is by no means confined to
+England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater
+insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand
+his beard, received the following answer:--
+
+"Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, ye whiche is ye
+most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge.
+Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit.
+But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn
+elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his
+kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by ye feith of my body, for
+this is ye most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I
+have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I
+wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne ye messager
+departed." ("The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur," edit, by Caxton,
+1485, reprinted 1817.)
+
+"To make any one's beard" is an old saying, which means "to cheat him,"
+or "to deceive him." We read in Chaucer's _Prologue to the Wife of
+Bath_ thus:--
+
+    "In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest:
+    Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the"
+
+[Illustration: Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.]
+
+And again, in the "Reve's Tale," the Miller said:--
+
+    "I trow, the clerkes were aferde
+    Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde,
+    For all his art."
+
+A more familiar saying is "To beard a person," meaning to affront him,
+or to set him at defiance. Todd explains the allusion in a note in his
+edition of Spenser's _Faerie Queene_--"did beard affront him to his
+face"; so Shakespeare's _King Henry IV._, Part I. Act i.: "I beard thee
+to thy face"--Fr. "Faire la Barbe a quelqu'un." Ital. "Fa la barbe ad
+uno" (Upton.)
+
+See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in _King Henry IV._,
+which is adopted, he says, "from romances, and originally signified to
+'cut off the beard.'" Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly
+indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs
+attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to
+Achilles, as translated by Chapman:--
+
+    --"and so tell thy strength how eminent
+    My power is, being compared with thine;
+      all other making feare
+    To vaunt equality with me, or in this
+      proud kind beare
+    Their beards against me."
+
+In Shirley's play, _A Contention for Honour and Riches_, 1633:--
+
+    "You have worn a sword thus long to show ye hilt,
+    Now let the blade appear.
+    COURTIER.--Good Captain Voice,
+    It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet
+    No ague, I can look upon your buff,
+    And punto beard, and call for no strong waters."
+
+"It is difficult to ascertain," says Repton, "when the custom of pulling
+the nose superseded that of pulling the beard, but most probably when
+the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for
+insult." In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of
+Devonshire, paid L30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court.
+An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's
+_Epicaene, or the Silent Woman_, Act iv. sc. 5.
+
+In "Aubrey's Letters" is an allusion to wiping the beard. "Ralph Kettle,
+D.D.," we read, "preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in
+conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt
+up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from
+the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was
+their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return
+to wayte on their masters)." An old play by Lyly, entitled _Mother
+Bombie_ (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:--
+
+"Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a
+handkerchief."
+
+Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little
+book, "Some account of the Beard and Moustachio," of which one hundred
+copies were printed for private circulation in 1839.
+
+The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard
+to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's _Antonio and Melida_,
+(1602), Act v., we read as follows:--
+
+"PIERO.--Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry?
+
+"ROSSALINE.--Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy,
+forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long.
+Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of
+furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming
+chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable."
+
+In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios.
+We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking
+beards. "There is no accounting," says Repton, "for the taste of ladies.
+Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the
+heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may
+not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady
+(_i.e._ the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have
+a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the
+fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's
+beard is not recorded in the history of England." Many references find a
+place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard.
+
+Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if
+carefully performed. It is stated in the "Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas,"
+published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey
+merchant, that he was very nice in the mode of that age, his valet
+being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his
+whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a
+companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we
+have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect
+the beard from being disarranged.
+
+
+
+
+TAXING THE BEARD
+
+
+Beards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the
+same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for
+nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement
+of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given
+up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the
+prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore
+either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred
+roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A
+peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to
+one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave
+rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it the utmost vigilance had
+to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding
+this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which
+had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained
+their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles
+annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was
+sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in
+1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this
+tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the
+edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726.
+
+A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in
+agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all
+other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a
+firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by
+which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were
+entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax
+of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes.
+
+In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all
+their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762,
+intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some
+stringent measures; but his sudden death prevented them from being put
+into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings
+in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed
+every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks,
+who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to
+return, and assigned land to them for their settlement.
+
+[Illustration: Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705.]
+
+During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodoraia (the
+bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these
+tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth,
+moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription "dinge
+vsatia," which means "money received"; the reverse bears the year in
+Russian characters (equivalent to "1705 year"), and the black eagle of
+the empire.
+
+Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the
+"Numismatic Chronicle," volume vii., 1845. He says that beard-tokens
+are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin
+probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served
+their purpose for the year.
+
+
+
+
+POWDERING THE HAIR
+
+
+In the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many
+circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We
+learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it
+was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of
+the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period
+gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. "The hair of
+Commodus," it is stated on the authority of Herodian, "glittered from
+its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust
+with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have
+been thought that his head was on fire."
+
+It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons
+used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon
+pictures the beard and hair are often painted blue. Strutt supplies
+interesting notes on the subject. "In some instances," he says, "which,
+indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red
+colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt
+existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this
+period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing
+it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient
+Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably
+to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine."
+
+It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made
+of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was
+maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until
+after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen
+greatly increased the popularity of the practice.
+
+The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those
+of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled
+"Wit's Recreations," 1640, the following appears under the heading of
+_Our Monsieur Powder-wig_:--
+
+    "Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet!
+    How like a pageant he doth walk the street!
+    See how his perfumed head is powdered ore;
+    'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before."
+
+In "Musarum Deliciae," 1655, we read:--
+
+      "At the devill's shopps you buy
+        A dresse of powdered hayre,
+      On which your feathers flaunt and fly;
+        But i'de wish you have a care,
+    Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder,
+    Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder."
+
+From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared "The Impartial Monitor."
+The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words:
+"It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and
+shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these
+likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and
+scorn them for it." A _Loyal Litany_ against the Oliverians runs thus:--
+
+    "From a king-killing saint,
+    Patch, powder, and paint,
+      Libera nos, Domine."
+
+Massinger, in the "City Madam," printed in 1679, describing the dress of
+a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:--
+
+    "Since your husband was knighted, as I said,
+    The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair
+    Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art,
+    Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds
+    And richest orient pearls."
+
+John Gay, in his poem, "Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of
+London," published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb--
+
+    "Him like the Miller, pass with caution by,
+    Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly."
+
+We learn from the "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons" some particulars
+respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, "Mr John Brooks,"
+it is stated, "attended and produced a deed to which he requested the
+subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of
+Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a
+duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and
+of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no
+perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of
+alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents
+excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder,
+under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and L50, and that any person
+who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and L20." Other
+details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their
+support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the
+Bill through Parliament.
+
+A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the
+_Gentleman's Magazine_ particulars of some convictions for using powder
+not made in accordance with the laws of the land. "On the 20th October,
+1745," it is recorded, "fifty-one barbers were convicted before the
+commissioners of excise, and fined in the penalty of L20, for having in
+their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of
+Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers
+were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty."
+
+Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and
+powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any
+pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known
+as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went
+behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of
+powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In
+the _Rambler_, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that
+his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about
+with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat
+uncocked.
+
+We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an
+Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power,
+and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a
+guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet
+much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a
+considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as L200,000 a year. Fox,
+with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious
+fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition were
+unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful
+rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most
+fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his "get up"
+about 1770, drawn from the _Monthly Magazine_: "He had his chapeau-bas,
+his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder." Later, when Pitt's tax
+was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more
+than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their
+hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to
+a number of Crop Clubs. The _Times_ for April 14th, 1795, contains
+particulars of one. "A numerous club," says the paragraph, "has been
+formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his
+entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of
+Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for
+the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads."
+Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society.
+The _Times_ of April 25th, 1795, reports that: "The following noblemen
+and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn
+Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took
+place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They
+entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of them
+wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many
+noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the
+example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the
+ladies have left off wearing powder." Hair powder did not long continue
+in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high
+price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the
+hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the
+"Art of Dressing the Hair," 1770, the author complains:--
+
+    "Their hoarded grain contractors spare,
+    And starve the poor to beautify the hair."
+
+Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced
+L210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three
+shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The
+Whigs might taunt them by calling them "guinea-pigs," it mattered
+little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves,
+but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons
+were exempt from paying the tax, including "the royal family and their
+servants, the clergy with an income of under L100 per annum, subalterns,
+non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers
+enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two unmarried
+daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder."
+A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman,
+etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly
+engaged servants.
+
+Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with
+consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her
+desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was
+made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua
+Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is
+much more likely that the artists painted the hair "full and flowing"
+because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their
+patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to
+do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy,
+and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people
+discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use.
+With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of
+"The Antiquary:" "Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an
+old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish,
+which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the
+operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided
+his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him.
+
+"'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'),
+holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an
+answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the
+provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah,
+sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane
+by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's
+time--and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi'
+the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day,
+Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted
+their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as
+they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on
+his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise
+against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons,
+and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my
+blocks.'" It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic.
+"In the eighteenth century," says Mrs G. Linnaeus Banks, author of the
+"Manchester Man" and other popular novels, "he waited on his chief
+customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to
+powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes.
+Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in
+advance, and sent home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a
+barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered
+top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a
+rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least
+a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupee
+or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well
+understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser
+was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging
+the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering
+with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or
+disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep
+was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was
+rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of
+imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine
+ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong
+stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them."
+
+When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was
+heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account
+of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances
+sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers
+were fined sums from L64, 5s. to L106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the
+matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should
+refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour.
+King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household
+to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to
+be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as
+was eaten by the servants.
+
+A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made
+to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation
+issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the
+office of the Town Clerk:--
+
+     "DISUSE OF HAIR POWDER.
+
+     "Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming
+     approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns
+     throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off
+     for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which
+     means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the
+     nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be
+     prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and
+     principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example
+     as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military
+     will not hesitate to adopt it, being fully convinced that
+     appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal,
+     and that in doing this they really do good.
+
+                              "W. TAYLOR, Mayor.
+
+     "January 27th, 1795."
+
+Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House
+of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked
+a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time,
+and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to
+the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it
+received the royal assent.
+
+We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull
+was fined L10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having
+been baked, agreeable to Act of Parliament for that purpose.
+
+The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use
+hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent
+antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. "So late as
+1820," says Dr Cox, "Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for
+some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known
+clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder,
+and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous
+revolutionist." In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only
+some 800 persons paid it, producing about L1000 per year.
+
+
+
+
+THE AGE OF WIGS
+
+
+At the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of
+fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone
+times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear
+in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and
+style.
+
+[Illustration: Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British
+Museum.]
+
+To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far
+distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians
+are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but
+as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On
+the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in
+the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female,
+and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in
+Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the
+head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from the rays
+of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to
+escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The
+specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair
+in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited
+hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if
+it had been hair growing on the head.
+
+Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is
+recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians,
+Carians, Greeks, and Romans. _Galerus_, a round cap, was the common name
+among the Romans for a wig.
+
+The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the
+Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his
+simple sister Gorgonia, said "she neither cared to curl her own hair,
+nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig." St Jerome
+pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter
+received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly,
+condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming
+down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even
+if worn as a joke. "There is no joke in the matter," said the enraged St
+Bernard: "the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin." St John
+Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be
+mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion.
+
+Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its
+authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing
+wigs. "Praetexta," to use Doran's words, "was a very respectable lady,
+married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece,
+Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband,
+Praetexta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress
+and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the
+modest maiden so attired, Praetexta went to bed. To that bedside
+immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows
+of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit,
+'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the
+hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this
+do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy
+crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months
+more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou
+art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and
+thy children shall die even before thee.'"
+
+Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and
+the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so
+runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at
+church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind
+that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to
+the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them
+to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing.
+
+History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present
+investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated.
+Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have
+their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians
+were keenly alive to their ridiculous appearance. The king's general
+was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be
+imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became
+the pink of Lycian fashion.
+
+Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs,
+one to improve, and the other to disguise his person.
+
+Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen,
+but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of
+the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into
+this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not
+often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest
+payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and
+is for twenty shillings "for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool."
+Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs,
+became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of
+Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court
+perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes.
+In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Academie de France
+des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their
+heads. He tells us "the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums
+spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of
+wigs at Court, and tried to introduce a kind of cap." He lost the day,
+for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went
+out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and
+some even cost L200 apiece.
+
+Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal
+wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring
+the fashion to Whitehall. "He forbade," we are told, "the members of the
+Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons.
+The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the
+first two."
+
+Pepys' "Diary" contains much interesting information concerning wigs.
+Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: "I heard the Duke say that
+he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never
+till this day observed that the King is mighty gray." It was perhaps the
+change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume
+the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned.
+
+As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted
+the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with
+Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his "Diary" to
+one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, "I did try two or
+three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no
+stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He
+trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my
+first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also."
+Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys
+was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys,
+and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at
+Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his
+"Diary," that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it;
+but he said, "I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to
+periwigs." Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: "Lord's day.
+Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig,
+bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in
+Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in
+fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare
+to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the
+heads of people dead of the plague."
+
+We learn from an entry in the "Diary" for June 11th, 1666, that ladies,
+in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs.
+"Walking in the galleries at Whitehall," observes Mr Pepys, "I find the
+ladies of honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets
+with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their
+doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for
+long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them
+for women in any point whatever." Pepys, we have seen, wondered if
+periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he
+was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and
+its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore,
+perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of
+depression.
+
+[Illustration: The Earl of Albemarle.]
+
+In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable
+example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of
+Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig.
+Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived.
+
+The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket
+beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places,
+combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies.
+Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John
+Hawkins, in his "History of Music," published in 1776, has an informing
+note on combing customs. "On the Mall and in the theatre," he tells us,
+"gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a
+fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his
+levee, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with
+large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs,
+while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb
+has passed through them." Allusions to this practice may be found in the
+plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We
+read in Dryden's prologue to "Almanzor and Almahide":--
+
+    "But as when vizard mask appears in pit,
+    Straight every man who thinks himself a wit
+    Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace,
+    With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face."
+
+Says Congreve, in the "Way of the World":--
+
+     "The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you."
+
+[Illustration: Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the
+period_).]
+
+Thomas Brown, in his "Letters from the Dead to the Living," presents a
+pen-portrait of beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the
+eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as
+they contain valuable information concerning wigs. "We met," says the
+writer, "three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle
+made a most magnificent figure--his periwig was large enough to have
+loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I
+warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk,
+that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the
+bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left
+arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his
+cane, that hung negligently down in a string from his right arm,
+trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it
+was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself." About this
+period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad,
+describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84,
+mentions amongst those present:--
+
+     "A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff."
+
+[Illustration: Campaign Wig.]
+
+Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase
+in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a
+few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his "Academy of
+Armory," published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we
+will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called
+the campaign-wig. He says it "hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each
+side, with a curled forehead." This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we
+have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig
+with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail.
+It was of various forms, and Swift says:--
+
+    "We who wear our wigs
+    With fantail and with snake."
+
+[Illustration: Periwig with Tail.]
+
+A third example given by Holme is named the "short-bob," and is a plain
+peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. "Perukes," says Malcolm, in
+his "Manners and Customs," "were an highly important article in 1734.
+Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle
+ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five
+shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white,
+fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray
+bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of
+dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be
+observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in
+fashion, and dark of no estimation." As time ran its course, wigs became
+more varied in form, and bore different names.
+
+[Illustration: Ramillie Wig.]
+
+We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black
+riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the
+long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough,
+gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave
+the title to a long wig described as "having a long, gradually
+diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied
+with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the bottom." It was
+at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost
+the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity
+of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his "Henry
+Esmond," as "a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great
+periwig and red heels." Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the
+French king: "Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he
+increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its
+similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was
+never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his
+practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his
+curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it
+to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great
+Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous." It is stated in
+Read's _Weekly Journal_ of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of
+the Prince of Wales, that "the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards
+wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order." This wig survived until
+the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms
+of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, was
+the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up
+in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was
+popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced
+to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is
+recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent,
+the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying,
+"Ichabod, for the glory was departed."
+
+[Illustration: Pig-tail Wig.]
+
+In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and
+that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome.
+
+[Illustration: Bag-Wig.]
+
+Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as
+a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle
+of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual
+taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time.
+In this example may be observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the
+frizziness over the forehead.
+
+We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait
+of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of
+Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication
+of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land.
+Farquhar, in a comedy called "Love and a Bottle," brought out in 1698,
+says, "A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the
+laurel."
+
+Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to
+adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: "I can remember since the
+wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first
+magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did
+either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and
+if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would
+point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal." Dr
+Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons,
+and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume,
+in 1765, was issued under the title of "Free Advice to a Young
+Clergyman," from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he
+recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had
+made his own hair respectable. Dr Randolph, on his advancement to the
+bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without
+wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said,
+"My lord, you must have a wig." Bishops wore wigs until the days of
+William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to
+set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the
+marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in
+his wig.
+
+Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period:
+perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, "The Mock
+Doctor," who exclaims, "I must have a physician's habit, for a physician
+can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee." The wig
+known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:--
+
+    "Physic of old her entry made
+    Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade;
+    While the gilt cane, with solemn pride
+    To each suspicious nose applied,
+    Seemed but a necessary prop
+    To bear the weight of wig at top."
+
+We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song
+which commenced:--
+
+    "If you would see a noble wig,
+    And in that wig a man look big,
+    To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy,
+    And gaze on Dr Delmahoy."
+
+In the middle of the last century so much importance was attached to
+this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was
+in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming:
+"Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!"
+
+Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of
+Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to
+judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and
+curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head
+with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from
+five to six guineas.
+
+An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge
+Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. "I hear your voice,"
+sternly said his Lordship, "but I cannot see you." The barrister had to
+obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would
+listen to him.
+
+Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the
+peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He
+was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation.
+In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old
+judges did not wear them. "True," said the king; "the old judges wore
+beards."
+
+In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both
+bench and bar discarding the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at
+Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court,
+and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next
+day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their
+professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous
+day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the
+mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded.
+
+We learn from a report in the _Times_ of July 24th, 1868, that on
+account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in
+the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared
+without wigs.
+
+On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case
+for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission
+to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat.
+
+Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at
+the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did
+were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition,
+to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and
+curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and
+frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It
+will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased
+the beauty of a pretty face.
+
+Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore
+false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their
+hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks.
+
+[Illustration: Heart-Breakers.]
+
+It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not
+merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in
+England. From "The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart," it
+appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it
+to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being
+false.
+
+We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666.
+Coming down to later times, we read in the _Whitehall Evening Post_ of
+August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards,
+the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding habits, with
+hats, and feathers, and periwigs."
+
+[Illustration: With and Without a Wig.]
+
+It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that
+its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of
+Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings,
+O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account
+of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking
+to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, "Take
+off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier." The witty
+Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd,
+by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald
+pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was
+scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly
+on O'Connell's side.
+
+An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year
+1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public
+ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand,
+and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him,
+he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may
+be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his
+attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the
+wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it
+may be added, was short of hair.
+
+Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth
+century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. "Had I
+lived in the reign of good Queen Anne," wrote Lord Lyttelton, "my baby
+face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as
+that which bedecks the head and shoulders of Mr Justice Blackstone when
+he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him." We learn
+from Miss Agnes Strickland that "Marie Antoinette was the first person
+who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures
+of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue
+jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs
+and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been
+points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence," she
+says, when writing her history, "who can remember, at six years old,
+joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte,
+dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered
+side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles."
+
+It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed
+wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord
+Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who
+had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but
+he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield,
+and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster
+Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is
+represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation,
+which was fully reported in the _Times_ for 1823. An action, it is
+stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to
+recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the
+possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig
+had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the
+legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told,
+he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The
+plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its
+recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the
+plaintiff the sum of L2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Mansfield.]
+
+
+
+
+STEALING WIGS
+
+
+[Illustration: Stealing a Wig.]
+
+In the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English
+gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden
+time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were
+not lost. Swift says:--
+
+    "Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs,
+    Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs."
+
+Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are
+told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes
+a successful mode of operation: "A boy was carried covered over in a
+butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by
+the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an
+accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence of assisting him
+while the tray-bearer made off." Gay, in _Trivia_, thus writes:--
+
+    "Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn:
+    High on the shoulders in a basket borne
+    Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred,
+    Plucks off the curling honours of thy head."
+
+
+
+
+THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT
+
+
+On February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets
+of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the
+peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A
+large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and
+distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might
+be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up
+for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the
+wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St
+James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but
+it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity.
+
+Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the
+metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not fare
+so well. "As the distressed men went processionally through the town,"
+says the account, "it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who
+wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this
+striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and
+inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair
+per force."
+
+Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters.
+"Should we wonder," he writes, "if carpenters were to remonstrate that
+since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?" The wags of the
+period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to
+provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published
+purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to
+wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal
+presence with the same graceful decoration.
+
+
+
+
+THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT
+
+
+At the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to
+realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a
+century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a
+fashion which has become general. In the first year of the reign of
+Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at
+Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the
+moustache. The following Report is drawn from the _Times_ of September
+21st, 1837: "Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said
+he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad,
+applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant,
+under the following ludicrous circumstances.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for?
+
+"Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most
+haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I
+goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates
+said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I.
+'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look
+like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a
+fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit
+half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot
+sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to
+have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they
+weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and
+stole my dinner out of the pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want
+your advice respecting my mustachios.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off
+without loss of time.
+
+"Applicant: Can't part with a single hair.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose?
+
+"Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had
+such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long
+hair hanging from his lip?
+
+"Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes
+me look like a man of some courage.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the
+fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself?
+It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with
+mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin,
+which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice,
+I can't assist you.
+
+"Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip?
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you.
+
+"Applicant: No, they didn't.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: How's that?
+
+"Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only
+young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me.
+
+"Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You
+may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not."
+
+"The man with the mustachios then withdrew."
+
+About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War
+had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use
+of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and
+attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in
+England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George
+Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable
+figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance,
+with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th
+July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache
+movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the
+representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in
+the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on
+Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was
+remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:--
+
+    Three Colonels, in three distant counties born,
+    Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn.
+    The first in matchless impudence surpass'd,
+    The next in bigotry, in both the last,
+    The force of nature could no further go,
+    To beard the first she shaved the other two.
+
+It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated
+tribute to Milton.
+
+[Illustration: George Frederick Muntz, M.P.]
+
+The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded
+politician. It is related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow
+journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow
+progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the
+Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily
+hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party
+that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural
+population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the
+point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to
+succumb, and that he was "determined to face it out."
+
+We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused
+a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on
+a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not
+then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by
+his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half
+a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in
+his "Backward Glances" (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain
+Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the
+well-known editor of the _Scotsman_, to Loch Long, when he saw some
+carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. "Sitting
+obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car," says the doctor, "was a portly
+personage with a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise
+distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry
+Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he
+had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on
+the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite
+impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense
+would never wear a moustache.'" We may gather from the foregoing the
+prejudice of the period against facial adornments.
+
+From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of
+Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a
+moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, "Jew, Jew,
+Jew," or "Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy," and, if that did not make any
+impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten
+laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of
+a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial
+artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding
+town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he
+was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from
+the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many
+follow his lead.
+
+A teacher of music was the first to wear a moustache in Nottingham. He
+attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great
+curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music
+master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with
+whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won
+his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible
+young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was
+regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short
+engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the
+moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham.
+
+Mr W.P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing "Autobiography," and
+devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to "The Bearded
+Model." He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how
+at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day
+his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be
+teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. "Why don't
+you get your 'air cut?" said one. "Yah! where's your bundle of old
+clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?" said another,
+"Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?" and so on.
+All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey
+beard, then such a rarity. The young gentlemen had mistaken their man.
+He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew.
+How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present
+studies.
+
+Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent
+Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted
+their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr
+Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. "I
+well remember," says Mr Frith, "a book illustrator named Stuart, who,
+according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England
+instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent
+from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he
+was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his
+pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched
+into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous
+conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them
+forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The
+Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the
+treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that
+the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction
+of his utterly unreliable character and general dishonesty in
+consequence of his beard--one man going so far as to tell him it cost
+him L200 a year--he refused to remove it." Mr Frith says when the
+Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme
+poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund
+established to meet cases like his.
+
+The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache
+movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England
+issued an order "that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during
+business hours." It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order
+was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in
+the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid
+manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old
+servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face
+and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made
+shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to
+his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer
+to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him
+until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor.
+
+In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be
+dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should
+regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about
+the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable
+authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors
+served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache.
+On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use
+of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example
+he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the
+adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught
+cold, and in a few days died.
+
+[Illustration: Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.]
+
+An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that
+any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was
+strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago.
+
+Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, "Bench
+and Bar Reminiscences" (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of
+our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and
+certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the
+face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of
+the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister,
+named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a
+long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave
+offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other
+exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held,
+and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action.
+Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge
+him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the
+ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was
+under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the
+unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea,
+a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the
+Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. "This was," says
+Mr Serjeant Robinson, "the worst that could befall him, for of course he
+could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the
+court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of
+carrying out the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did
+not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared
+afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had
+been driven from practising his profession in the courts."
+
+Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should
+appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth.
+
+Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the
+present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the
+martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the
+Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the
+military appearance of the citizen soldier.
+
+Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often
+contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In
+modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given
+rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the
+newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which
+included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches
+among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and
+against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more
+than one book dealing with the subject. An author issued "An Apology
+for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in
+particular" (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against
+shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in
+book form a "Defence of the Beard." He dealt with his subject on
+scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow
+a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good
+taste. Mr. Ward asked, "What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who
+would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?" The artist set an
+example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the
+title-page of another work was declared: "A Breach of the Sabbath, and a
+Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel." The writer designated himself
+"Theologos." If his views were carried out, it would lead to the
+practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath
+anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High
+Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is
+discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks
+joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop
+was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give
+up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused
+towards the close of 1892 when it became known that the Archbishop of
+York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several
+quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard
+swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern
+Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He
+had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination,
+but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final
+effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not
+time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing
+so, and asked why he should. "Well," said the chaplain, "you see the
+saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches." "That may
+be so," said the candidate, "but as I am not intended to be a saint and
+stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain."
+
+Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899,
+Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph
+in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it
+out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. "After
+a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next
+paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the
+curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took
+up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has
+joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of
+His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I
+felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper
+and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in
+London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the
+reporters--I don't know which--in which he held up the Bishop of
+Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded
+their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the
+contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have
+thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their
+moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but
+a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply
+with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had
+of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this
+newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard--I have not seen
+it--that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of
+Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry
+after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example
+of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the
+most astounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never
+said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would
+forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not
+personal to myself and to many of those in this tent."
+
+A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. "The
+vicar of an East London parish," said the bishop, "was one of the first
+London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to
+stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent
+his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should
+otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied
+that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and
+would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the
+bishop retracted."
+
+We are told in the "Life of R.W. Dale" (London, 1898) that this famous
+Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with "long black
+hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane." In a year or two
+it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some
+hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were
+scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in
+protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers "with an air of
+levity and worldliness." A letter of approval purported to come from
+the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H.D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had
+his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as
+follows:--
+
+     "REVEREND AND BEARDED SIR,--It rejoiced my shade to see
+     you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the
+     identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that
+     unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the
+     'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are."
+
+Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of
+the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. "John, John!" cried the
+reverend sufferer, "it's a dreadful thing that drink!" "'Deed it is,
+sir," mildly assented John, "it makes the skin unco tender."
+
+The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the
+younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William
+Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be
+readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of
+reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was
+moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: "That
+it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to
+wear a beard and moustache if they think fit." A week later, namely, on
+December 7th, at the Watch Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and
+seconded by Mr Fountain: "That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of
+December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and
+moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee." It was
+pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the
+passing of the resolution, that it would give a "fierce appearance to
+the police."
+
+In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the
+moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow
+their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and
+conditions of men.
+
+The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd
+came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of
+moustaches by his sons in the following terms: "In case my son Edward
+shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper
+Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his
+appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall
+wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of
+him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called
+Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said
+son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns."
+
+Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by his will, proved in 1869,
+left L10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and
+to those who persisted in wearing them, L5 only.
+
+In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: "French
+motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs
+shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they
+declare to be a sanitary protection."
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Absalom, 7, 8
+Age of wigs, 71-93
+Agrarian law repealed, 48
+Albemarle, Earl of, 78
+---- Duchess of, 17
+Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, 27
+Alfreton, 102
+Anne, Queen, 82
+Assyrian sculptures, 72
+"_Antiquarian Repertory_," quoted, 2
+"_Athenian Oracle_," quoted, 1
+Aubrey, quoted, 17, 54
+
+Bag-wig, 84
+Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, 32
+Ballad of the Beard, 41-44
+Banks, Mrs G. Linnaeus, quoted, 67
+Banks and the moustache, 105
+Bar and the moustache, 107
+Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, 26
+Barber's pole, 1-8
+Barber's shop, 8-24
+Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, 28
+---- separate, 31
+Barbers' Company, first Master of the, 27
+Barnard Castle, 18
+Barristers without wigs, 88
+Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, 84
+Bayeux tapestry, 34
+Beard protection against neuralgia, 99
+Beardie Scott, 47
+Beardless Britons, 33
+Bible, quoted, 33
+Bleeding at Northallerton, 31
+Blomfield, Bishop, 86
+Boxing the beard, 56
+Brand's "Popular Antiquities," 5
+_British Apollo_, quoted, 6
+Britons, 33
+Bronte, Rev. P., story about, 25, 26
+Bygone beards, 33-56
+
+Campaign wig, 81
+Canterbury, Sheriff of, 36
+Cavaliers, 44
+Chair, barber's, 14
+Charles I., 38, 44, 48
+---- II., 25
+Charlotte, Queen, 66
+Chaucer, quoted, 52
+Chester barber-surgeons, 23
+Church denounces wigs, 73
+---- denounces moustache, 108
+Churchyards, barbers shave in, 21, 23
+Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, 26
+Cloth of gold, 55
+Cockburn, Judge, 87
+Combing the wig, 79
+Congreve, 79
+"_Comenii Orbis Pictus_," quoted, 2
+Comenius, Bishop, 2
+Contractors and the moustache, 105
+Cox, Rev. Dr J.C., quoted, 70
+Crimean War, 99
+Crop clubs, 64
+Curing a joking duke, 18
+Cyprus customs, 50
+
+Dale, R.W., 112
+Defence of the beard, 109
+Delmahoy's wig, 86
+Demanding the beard, 51
+Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24, 25
+Disuse of hair powder, 69
+Doran, Dr, quoted, 73
+Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, 104
+Drury Lane, five women barbers of, 17
+Dryden, quoted, 79
+Duke and barber's boy, 18
+Dyeing the beard, 37
+
+Earliest mention of the beard, 33
+Early gild in London, 27
+Eastern potentate, 35
+Eden, Dr, and the moustache, 110
+Egyptian wigs, 71
+Eldon, Lord, 87
+Elizabeth, Queen, 37, 38
+Epigram on three colonels, 100
+Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, 32
+
+Fairholt, F.W., 41
+False hair worn by women, 88
+Farquhar, 20
+Female follies, 61
+Fined for wearing beards, 35, 36
+First illustrated school book, 2
+Forfeits, 14-16
+Fox, C.J., 64
+France, wig mania in, 75
+Free advice to a young clergyman, 85
+Frith, W.P., "Autobiography" quoted, 103
+From barber to surgeon, 26-32
+Frost fair, 81
+
+Gallants, gathering of, 9
+Galley-pot, 5
+Garrick, 14
+Gauls, 60
+Gay, J., quoted, 13, 61, 95
+_Gentleman's Magazine_, quoted, 62
+George III. and wig-makers, 95
+---- sets his subjects a good example, 69
+---- IV. and Dr Randolph, 86
+Gold-dust used as hair-powder, 59
+Grain, high price of, 68
+Great seal, 76
+Guitar, 9
+
+Hannibal, 75
+Hastings, Battle of, 33
+Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, 70
+Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, 79
+Heart-Breakers, 89
+Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, 101
+Henry VI., 48
+Henry VIII., 35
+Hentzner, quoted, 89
+High Church clergymen, 109
+Hodgson, Professor, 113
+Holbein's picture, 28
+Holme, R., quoted, 81
+House of Peers, 5
+How, Dr Walsham, 112
+Hull baker fined, 70
+---- candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, 110
+---- policemen and the moustache, 113
+---- timber merchant and the moustache, 110
+
+"Impartial Monitor," quoted, 61
+Incorporation of Barbers, 28
+Irish Shaving Statute, 47
+
+Jewish custom, 26
+Jews used hair-powder, 59
+Johnson, Dr, 16
+Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24
+Julius II., 34
+Juvenile wigs, 92
+
+Kauffmann, A., 66
+Kenealy, Dr, 88
+Kenrick, Dr, 16
+King's barber, 19
+Knox, John, 36, 37
+
+Last barber-surgeon in London, 31
+Laud, Archbishop, 51
+"Letters from the Dead to the Living," 79
+Lichfield, 20
+Lincoln's Inn and the beard, 35
+London women barbers, 17
+Lord's Day observance, 21-25
+Louis XIV., 83
+Louth, 18
+Lowe, Rev. H.D., 113
+"Loyal Litany," quoted, 61
+Lyttelton, Lord, 91
+
+Macedonian soldiers, 48
+Maclaren, C., editor of the _Scotsman_, 102
+Magistrate and the moustache, 97
+Malcolm, quoted, 82
+Manner of using hair powder, 63, 68
+Mansfield, Lord, 92
+Marie Antoinette, 92
+Marston, quoted, 54
+Mary Queen of Scots, 89
+Massinger, quoted, 61
+Medical men and wigs, 86
+Ministers shaving on Sunday, 24, 25
+Missal, 5
+Mock doctor, 86
+More, Rev. J., 36
+---- Sir Thomas, 36
+Moustache and the motor-car, 115
+---- movement, 96-115
+Muffs, 80
+Muntz, G.F., 99
+Music, barber's, 9, 21
+
+Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, 24
+_Notes and Queries_, quoted, 16, 47
+Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, 103
+
+Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, 27
+O'Connell, D., 90
+One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, 84
+
+Paris, massacre of, 75
+Pepys, quoted, 31, 76
+Percival, Col., 99
+Periwig with tail, 81
+Peter the Great, 91
+Phlebotomy, 2-5
+Pig-tail, 84
+Pitt, 63
+Plucking the beard, 48, 49
+Poetical signs, 7, 8
+Politics and the moustache, 101
+Pontefract, 23
+Powdering the hair, 59-71
+Pulling the nose, 54
+Puritans, 11
+
+"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," 9
+
+"Rambler," quoted, 63
+Ramillies, Battle of, 82
+---- wig, 83
+Reading regulations, 9
+Red rag, 5
+Reform Bill, 84
+Repton, J.A., 41
+Retailer of scandal, 8
+Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 66
+Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, 106
+Rogers, Dr C., quoted, 24
+Romans and hair-powder, 59
+Russian laws, 56-59
+Ryle, Bishop, 109
+
+Sandy-coloured hair, 60
+Saxons and hair-powder, 59
+Sayings, old, 51-56
+Saywell, Rev. J.L., quoted, 31
+Scarborough, woman barber at, 17
+Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 66
+Sealing custom, 35
+Shakespeare, quoted, 14, 53
+Shaving heads, 74
+Sheppard, Mr, M.P., 84
+Shirley, quoted, 53
+Short-bob, 83
+Sibthorp, Col., 99
+Speaker's wig, 87
+Starching the beard, 55
+Stealing wigs, 93-95
+Stephen, King, 75
+Stow, quoted, 75
+Stratford-on-Avon, 14
+Street frays, 9
+Strickland, Agnes, quoted, 92
+Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, 5
+Strutt, quoted, 60
+Stuart, artist, story of, 114
+Stubbes, 12
+Stupid barbers unknown, 8
+Sumner, Archbishop, 86
+Sunday shaving, 21-25
+Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, 5
+Swift, quoted, 5-7, 94
+
+Taxing hair-powder, 62, 63, 65
+---- the beard, 37, 56-59
+Taylor the Water Poet, 38, 41
+Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, 31
+"Thirsk Forfeits," 15
+Thurlow, Lord, 5
+Tichborne trial, 88
+Tiles, fine of, 9
+Tillotson, Dr, 85
+Timbs, John, quoted, 31
+_Times_, quoted, 64, 88, 97
+Token, beard, 58
+Tours, Edict of, 27
+Tragic story, 48
+
+Verner, Col., 99
+Vizetelly, quoted, 50
+
+Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, 102
+Walpole, Horace, quoted, 96
+---- Sir Robert, 85
+Ward, James, quoted, 109
+Wesleyans and the beard, 113
+_Whitehall Evening Post_, quoted, 90
+Wig-makers' riot, 95, 96
+Williams, noted barber, 92
+Wills and the moustache, 114
+With and without wigs, 90
+"Wits' Recreations," quoted, 60
+Women barbers, 16-18
+Working hours, long, 9
+Workshop and Sunday shaving, 23
+
+Yarmouth, curious bill at, 69
+York, Archbishop of, 110
+---- Gild of Barber-Surgeons, 21
+"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, 15, 16
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by
+William Andrews
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