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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/19925-8.txt b/19925-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e1c405f --- /dev/null +++ b/19925-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3311 @@ +Project Gutenberg's At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by William Andrews + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole + Studies In Hirsute History + +Author: William Andrews + +Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + + + + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. +Wigs in Parliament.] + + + + + AT THE SIGN + OF THE BARBER'S POLE + + STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY + + + BY + WILLIAM ANDREWS + + AUTHOR OF "BYGONE ENGLAND" + ETC. + + + + + COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE + J.R. TUTIN + 1904 + + + + +PREFACE + + +Connected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of +history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust +not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting +matters that gather round the man and his trade. + +In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted, +and among those which have yielded me the most information must be +mentioned the following:-- + + "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London," by Sidney Young, London, + 1890. + + "An Apology for the Beard," by Artium Magister, London, 1862. + + "Barbers' Company," by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881. + + "Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers," by D. Embleton, M.D., + Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891. + + "Barber's Shop," by R.W. Proctor, edited by W.E.A. Axon, + Manchester, 1883. + + "Philosophy of Beards," by T.S. Cowing, Ipswich. + + "Some Account of the Beard and the Moustachio," by John Adey + Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839. + + "Why Shave?" by H.M., London. + +_Notes and Queries_, and other periodicals, as well as encyclopædias, +books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous +friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with +gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to _Notes +and Queries_. + +Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but +all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them. + +In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the +byways of history. + + + WILLIAM ANDREWS. + + ROYAL INSTITUTION, HULL, + _August 11th_, 1904. + + + + +CONTENTS + + PAGE +THE BARBER'S POLE 1 + +THE BARBER'S SHOP 8 + +SUNDAY SHAVING 21 + +FROM BARBER TO SURGEON 26 + +BYGONE BEARDS 33 + +TAXING THE BEARD 56 + +POWDERING THE HAIR 59 + +THE AGE OF WIGS 71 + +STEALING WIGS 93 + +THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT 95 + +THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT 96 + +INDEX 117 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + PAGE +The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. + Wigs in Parliament _Frontispiece_ + +The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus" 3 + +A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth 10 + +William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait) 15 + +Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons 29 + +Bayeux Tapestry 34 + +John Knox, born 1505, died 1572 37 + +John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654 38 + +The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret + through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord + Mayor 39 + +Beards in the Olden Time 42 + +The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published + immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in + Fashion in 1605 45 + +Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400 52 + +Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705 58 + +Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British + Museum 72 + +The Earl of Albemarle 78 + +Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the period_) 80 + +Campaign Wig 81 + +Periwig with Tail 82 + +Ramillie Wig 83 + +Pig-tail Wig 84 + +Bag-Wig 84 + +Heart-Breakers 89 + +With and Without a Wig 90 + +Lord Mansfield 93 + +Stealing a Wig 94 + +George Frederick Muntz, M.P. 100 + +Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870 106 + + + + +THE BARBER'S POLE + + +In most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of +shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the +pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of +the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and +fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and +meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct +solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant +times. An attempt is made in "The Athenian Oracle" (i. 334), to trace +the remote origin of the pole. "The barber's art," says the book, "was +so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome +had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they +were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those +beautiful leeches, [Footnote: This is the old word for doctors or +surgeons.] our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In +cities and corporate towns they still retain their name +Barber-Chirurgeons. They therefore used to hang their basons out upon +poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller +where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still +gibbet their signs, across a town." It is a doubtful solution of the +origin of the barber's sign. + +[Illustration: The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."] + +A more satisfactory explanation is given in the "Antiquarian Repertory." +"The barber's pole," it is there stated, "has been the subject of many +conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or +head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the +true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master +of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a +beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put +in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The +white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the +fillet thus elegantly twined about it." We reproduce a page from +"Comenii Orbis Pictus," perhaps better known under its English title of +the "Visible World." It is said to have been the first illustrated +school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in +1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the +writer of many works, including the "Visible World: or a Nomenclature, +and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's +Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper Cuts." Under each picture +are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in +English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was +able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other +"chief things that are in the World." For a century this was the most +popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than +fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest +the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's +reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a +patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds +in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is +stated in Brand's "Popular Antiquities" that an illustration in a missal +of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice. + +In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of +postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from +July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a +statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a +pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no +other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other +respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the +particular nature of their vocation. + +A question is put in the _British Apollo_ (London, 1708):-- + + "... Why a barber at port-hole + Puts forth a party-coloured pole?" + +This is the answer given:-- + + "In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting, + And wounds and scars took much delight in, + Man-menders then had noble pay, + Which we call surgeons to this day. + 'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole, + With bason deck'd should grace the hole, + To guide the wounded, who unlopt + Could walk, on stumps the others hopt; + But, when they ended all their wars, + And men grew out of love with scars, + Their trade decaying; to keep swimming + They joyn'd the other trade of trimming, + And on their poles to publish either, + Thus twisted both their trades together." + +During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was +advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by +the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when +busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence, +adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small +public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two +businesses he might make a better living for his family. + +"Indeed," said the future Dean, "and what can I do to promote the happy +union?" + +"And please you," said the barber, "some of our customers have heard +much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend +to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it +might be the making of me and mine for ever." + +"But what do you intend for your sign?" inquired the cleric. + +"The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one +hand and a full pot in the other." + +"Well," rejoined Swift, "in that case there can be no great difficulty +in supplying you with a suitable inscription." Taking up a pen he +instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the +sign and remained there for many years:-- + + "Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here, + Where nought excels the shaving but--the beer." + +Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from +Goldsmith as follows:-- + + "Man wants but little beard below, + Nor wants that little long." + +A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign +having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and +Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the +following terse epigram:-- + + "Passans, contemplez le malheur + D'Absalom pendu par la nuque; + Il aurait évité ce malheur, + S'il eut porté une perruque." + +The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as +follows:-- + + "The wretched Absalom behold, + Suspended by his flowing hair: + He might have 'scaped this hapless fate + Had he chosen a wig to wear." + + + + +THE BARBER'S SHOP + + +The old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a +notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved, +cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices. +When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed +the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which +he was not slow to make known--in confidence, and in an undertone, of +course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor; +urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of +this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and +never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber. + +Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts +have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that +compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the +following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading +Corporation: "Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man +after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from +Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the +town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand +tiles to the Guildhall." + +[Illustration: A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.] + +In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country +thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or +take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the +barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the +gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds +dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter, +and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn +came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios +curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop +at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an +establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a +barber's shop in Greene's "Quip for an Upstart Courtier," published in +1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair, +and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address +him: "Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian +manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make +it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears +and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will you be +Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may +wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen +scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready +to execute your worship's will." A couple of hours were spent in combing +and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's +basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and +with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be +shaven; "whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable +like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a +lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his +crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a +razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his +moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce +and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?--and with +every question a snip of the scissors and a bow." If a poor man entered +the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a +cheese, and dismissed with scarce a "God speed you." + +The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers. +No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the +Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and +the mean style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the +common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. "And," wrote Stubbes with +indignation, "they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore, +when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to +look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern +in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of +cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done +all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be +preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one +ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead. +Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking +and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing, +what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure. +And when they come to washing--oh, how gingerly they behave themselves +therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam +that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they +use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then +snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended, +comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must +be picked, and closed together again, artificially, forsooth! The hair +of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to +behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest +these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their +pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at +all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they +will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any +again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off +his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque +simillimæ cygnis--rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans. +You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you +shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall +sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in +the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'" + +John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his "Fables," and in the one +entitled "The Goat Without a Beard" we get a description of the barber's +shop of the period:-- + + "His pole, with pewter basins hung, + Black, rotten teeth in order strung, + Rang'd cups that in the window stood, + Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood, + Did well his threefold trade explain, + Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein." + +The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:-- + + "Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides: + Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides." + +Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits +used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which +were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the +customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight +of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the +following:-- + + For handling the razors, + For talking of cutting throats, + For calling hair-powder flour, + For meddling with anything on the shop-board. + +Shakespeare alludes to this custom in "Measure for Measure," Act v. sc. +1, as follows:-- + + "The strong statutes + Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop, + As much in mock as mark." + +[Illustration: William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).] + +Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop +in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an +apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a +barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that +the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to +have been in use for centuries. The following lines have found their +way into several works, including Ingledew's "Ballads and Songs of +Yorkshire" (1860). In some collections the lines are headed "Rules for +Seemly Behaviour," and in others "The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits." We +draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we +have seen:-- + + "First come, first served--then come not late, + And when arrived keep your sate; + For he who from these rules shall swerve + Shall pay his forfeit--so observe. + + "Who enters here with boots and spurs + Must keep his nook, for if he stirs + And gives with arm'd heel a kick, + A pint he pays for every prick. + + "Who rudely takes another's turn + By forfeit glass--may manners learn; + Who reverentless shall swear or curse + Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse. + + "Who checks the barber in his tale, + Shall pay for that a gill of yale; + Who will or cannot miss his hat + Whilst trimming pays a pint for that. + + "And he who can but will not pay + Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away; + For will he--nill he--if in fault, + He forfeit must in meal or malt. + + "But mark, the man who is in drink + Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink." + +The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his +review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated +that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter +has been discussed at some length in _Notes and Queries_, and it is +asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on +the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869. + +Women barbers in the olden time were by no means uncommon in this +country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they +handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by +stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town +to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the +journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we +meet with allusions to "the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane," +who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of +Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of +them. + +At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand +was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St +Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman +wielder of the razor is mentioned in the "Topography of London," by J.T. +Smith. "On one occasion," writes Smith, "that I might indulge the humour +of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in +Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her +husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe." +He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street. + +Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to +Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was +postponed until they arrived at the watering-place. Shortly after +leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their +faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise +and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear +to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of +brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the +customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right +hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished +without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave +at Scarborough by a woman barber. + +At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop +kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his +work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have +shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men. + +Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting +barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as +related to us. The Duke of C---- upon one occasion entered a small +barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was +answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. "Can you +shave, then?" asked the duke. "Yes, sir, I always do," was the reply. +"But can you shave without cutting?" "Yes, sir, I'll try," answered the +youth. "Very well," said the duke, while seating himself, and loading +his pistol; "but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here +I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin." After a +moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, "I'm not +afraid of cutting you, sir," and in a short time had completed the feat +without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle +tones his grace asked, "Were you not afraid of having your brains blown +out, when you might have cut me so easily?" + +"No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen +to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your +throat." + +The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to +be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A +lesson was taught him for life. + +The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the +most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his +mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the +barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the +future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against +summary execution. + +With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated an amusing story, in +which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure +of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous, +and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the +master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up +to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar +was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the +dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the +room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he +deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the +charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the +guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends. +Farquhar was not satisfied. "I am certain," he said, "that the little +humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this +morning." The host returned to the room and related the story which he +had just heard. "Ay, yes," replied the guest, who was a well-born +gentleman, "I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the +barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and +the barber was out, I shaved him." + +The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions +to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a +customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time +playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a "barber's cittern for every +serving-man to play upon." Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at +the barber's shop. In the "Diary of Samuel Pepys" we read: "After supper +my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks +with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my +lord was well pleased." "My Lord was easily satisfied," says a +well-known contributor to _Punch_, "and in our day would probably have +enjoyed 'the horgans.'" We may rest assured that barber's music was of +questionable melody. + + + + +SUNDAY SHAVING + + +In bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs +and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to +shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of +Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was +restrained. + +The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's +Day observance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten +shillings, "that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop +on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks." Another +law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:--"This court, taking +notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the +Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and +cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the +Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole +consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at +any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse, +barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public +or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or +place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the +same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord +Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and +adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that +then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence +10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said +Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to +the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being +are to make diligent search in all such as aforesaid public or private +places for discovery of such offenders." + +The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester +shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:-- + +"1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his +servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly +called Sunday." + +In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is +stated: "Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of +the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their +respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the +high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the +future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise +the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's +Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon +that day, either publicly or privately." We have in the last clause an +indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market +place. + +The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid +half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves "not to +shave on Sundays in the morning." + +At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it +was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that "no brother +should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto." + +The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a +Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the +settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they +can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr +Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone, +presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the +Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was +delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what +they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath. + +The Rev. Patrick Brontë, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual +Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense +of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of +the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make +known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and +failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an +anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local +lore. When Mr Brontë resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village +that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving +himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious +disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a +clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview +with Mr Brontë on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he +observed: "I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I +never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else. +I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all +that is necessary." + +Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the +magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of +Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five +shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the +defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the +action. + + + + +FROM BARBER TO SURGEON + + +From the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the +surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession +would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted +from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great +antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions +to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of +mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber +were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in +bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his +position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of +wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 B.C., +and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met. +Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in B.C. 299. + +The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies +as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers +gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical +operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and +it was felt that this was incompatible with the functions of the +clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of +Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons, +but they were permitted to dispense medicine. + +The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they +were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change +afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the +barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner. +It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention +of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in +London to have the blood "privately carried into the Thames under the +pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs." + +At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a +gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object +was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They +attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives. +Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and +subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first +master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As +time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance. +In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were +incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding +monarchs. + +A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of +Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the +Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the +Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this +"not a pleasant though a good picture." It is the largest and last work +of Holbein. + +The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed +after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak +boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly +altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures +represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the +healing art of the period at which it was painted. + +[Illustration: Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.] + +In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the +barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: "No +person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery, +letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth." Laws were +made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The +barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons increased their +income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however, +vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work. + +The Rev. J.L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his "History and Annals +of Northallerton" (1885). "Towards the early part of the nineteenth +century," observes Mr Saywell, "a singular custom prevailed in the town +and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the +year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females, +repaired to a surgeon to be bled--a process which they considered +essentially conduced to vigorous health." The charge for this operation +was one shilling. + +Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be +exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled +without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request +was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges +granted so long ago. + +In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of +Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in +London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only +dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he +had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry. + +Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious +epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as +follows:-- + + "Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury, + Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October + 1699. + + =T=hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye, + =H=ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye, + =O=bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store, + =M=ingled with common earth till time's no more. + =A=gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine, + =S=ince So much Merrett did his life resigne. + + =M=urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave, + =E=lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have. + =R=est in Peace; who like a faithful steward, + =R=epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd; + =E=ternall mansions do attend the Just, + =T=o clothe with Immortality their dust, + =T=ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust." + + +Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a +stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale, +barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah +Bloodworth. It ends thus:-- + + "Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace + 1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th + yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives. + + This thing in life might raise some jealousy, + Here all three lie together lovingly, + But from embraces here no pleasure flows, + Alike are here all human joys and woes; + Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears, + And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears; + A period's come to all their toylsome lives + The good man's quiet; still are both his wives." + + + + + +BYGONE BEARDS + + +The history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with +our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past +than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character. +We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where +Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a +little later he forbids the Israelites to "mar the corners" of it. +David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to +the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to +the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of +their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent +out to meet them, saying, "Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown, +and then return." To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a +mark of the deepest grief. + +[Illustration: Bayeux Tapestry. + +The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army, +is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.] + +To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons +did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long, +and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his +progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to +obtain an idea as to the strength of the enemy. On their return they +stated among other things that "the host did almost seem to be priests, +because they had all their face and both their lips shaven," a statement +borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux +tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the +broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had +been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the +conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair +long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped +and shaven masters. + +Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to +allow his beard to grow, "in order," as he said, "to inspire the +greater respect among the faithful." A curious custom of the Middle Ages +was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of +the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another +instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations +comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of +England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern +monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented. +"Had my master measured wisdom by the beard," was the ready retort, "he +would have sent a goat." + +It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth +century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up +by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not +appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the +beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters +attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn +prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table, +unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was +before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to "poll their hair," +and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the +amount was graduated according to the condition of the person wearing +this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the +Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of +Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another +paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next +reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She +sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number, +George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in +length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan +the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and +we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new +toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put +his beard aside, saying, "It hath done no treason." John Knox (born 1505 +and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so +largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the +length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and +after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the +worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name +of "the Apostle of Norwich." His beard was the largest and longest of +any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing +his beard of unusual size "that no act of his life might be unworthy of +the gravity of his appearance." He died at Norwich in 1592. + +[Illustration: John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.] + +[Illustration: John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654.] + +In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to +add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above +a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken +seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature +for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's +reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and to cut +it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the +first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the +poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, "the Water Poet," are +among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show +considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of +his day. In his "Superbiæ Flagellum," he describes a great variety of +beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:-- + + "Now a few lines to paper I will put, + Of men's beards strange, and variable cut, + In which there's some that take as vain a pride + As almost in all other things beside; + Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush, + Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush; + And in my time of some men I have heard, + Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard; + Many of these the proverb well doth fit, + Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit: + Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine, + Like to the bristles of some angry swine; + And some to set their love's desire on edge, + Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge; + Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square, + Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare; + Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like, + That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike; + Some with the hammer cut, or roman T, + Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be; + Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion, + Some circular, some oval in translation; + Some perpendicular in longitude; + Some like a thicket for their crassitude; + That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round, + And rules geometrical in Beards are found." + +[Illustration: Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through +York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.] + +Some curious lines appear in "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume," +edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society, +1849. The piece which is entitled "The Ballad of the Beard," is +reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled "Le Prince d'Amour," +1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not +earlier. "The varied form of the beard," says Fairholt, "which +characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on, +and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the +first half of the seventeenth century." Taylor, the Water Poet, has +alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have +so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a +curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J.A. Repton, F.S.A., on the +various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like "the Roman T," +mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut--Fig. 1--from +a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book. + +[Illustration: Beards in the Olden Time] + +The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The +needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or +spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book. +The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial +illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's +"Heraldry." He calls it "the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops, +and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards." "The beard +of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing +accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not +subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the +words of the song." We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in +fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:-- + + "The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin, + Doth dwell so near the tongue, + That her silence on the beard's defence + May do her neighbour wrong. + + Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king, + Be his sceptres ne'er so fair: + Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey, + And are subject to a hair. + + 'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight, + That adorns both young and old; + A well thatcht face is a comely grace, + And a shelter from the cold. + + When the piercing north comes thundering forth, + Let barren face beware; + For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind, + To shave the face that's bare. + + But there's many a nice and strange device, + That doth the beard disgrace; + But he that is in such a foolish sin, + Is a traitor to his face. + + Now the beards there be of such a company, + And fashions such a throng, + That it is very hard to handle a beard, + Tho' it never be so long. + + The Roman T, in its bravery, + Doth first itself disclose, + But so high it turns, that oft it burns + With the flames of a too red nose. + + The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared, + It is so sharp beneath, + For he that doth place a dagger in 's face, + What wears he in his sheath? + + But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich + The needle-beard to amend, + Which, without any wrong, I may call too long, + For man can see no end. + + The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd + In figure like a spade, + With which he'll make his enemies quake, + And think their graves are made. + + The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin, + Shall not my verse despise; + It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet + It grates poor prisoners' eyes. + + What doth invest a bishop's breast + But a milk-white spreading hair? + Which an emblem may be of integrity, + Which doth inhabit there. + + But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry, + That grows about the chin, + With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side, + And a champion ground between. + + Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush, + Which may be well endur'd." + +Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great +artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole +of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject +that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we +are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that +with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:-- + + "Now of beards there be such company, + Of fashions such a throng, + That it is very hard to treat of the beard, + Tho' it be never so long." + +It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor +everywhere keeping down its growth. + +[Illustration: The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published +immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.] + +Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called "Beardie." He was an +ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard +until the Stuarts were restored. "It would have been well," said the +novelist, "if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting +his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he +lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of +being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of +Buccleuch and Monmouth." Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to +Canto VI. of "Marmion":-- + + "With amber beard and flaxen hair, + And reverend apostolic air. + Small thought was his, in after time + E'er to be pitched into a rhyme. + The simple sire could only boast + That he was loyal to his cost; + The banish'd race of kings revered, + And lost his land--but kept his beard." + +He died in 1729 at Kelso. "Beardie's" second son, named Robert, was a +farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather. + +A contributor to _Notes and Queries_, for October 1st, 1859, gives the +following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to +Ireland:--"In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of +Shrewsbury, then Lord-Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was +enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be +used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to +the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout +Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who +became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the +treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two +benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his +followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated +properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated +Hair-breadth estates." The effects of this statute became so alarming +that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found +it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This +agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred +years. + +The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their +beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth +chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from +remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran +tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. "When the Jew," says the +doctor, "who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the +great Spaniard was dead, he contrived to get into the room where the +body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously +plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was +plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and +starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the +Jew by mere fright which it caused." In Afghanistan "the system of +administering justice was such," says the "Life of Abdur Rahman" +(London, 1890) "that the humble were able to bring their claims before +the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's +beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of +his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the +Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed +into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard +from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It +was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was +no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to +leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being +pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the +fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that +in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum." + +Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be +touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief +will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining +volume "From Cyprus to Zanzibar" (London, 1901), tells some good stories +about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as +it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a +few years. "On one occasion," he says, "when I happened to be in the +bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all +the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their +shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause. +Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had +shaved off a priest's beard." The priest had been imprisoned for felling +a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in +force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and +beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The +authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox +Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High +Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in +future his hair and beard were to be left alone. + +Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as +follows. + +A familiar example is "To pull the devil by the beard." When Archbishop +Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, "If I should get +into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries +there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to +pull me by the beard." This insulting saying is by no means confined to +England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater +insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand +his beard, received the following answer:-- + +"Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, ye whiche is ye +most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge. +Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit. +But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn +elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his +kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by ye feith of my body, for +this is ye most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I +have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I +wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne ye messager +departed." ("The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur," edit, by Caxton, +1485, reprinted 1817.) + +"To make any one's beard" is an old saying, which means "to cheat him," +or "to deceive him." We read in Chaucer's _Prologue to the Wife of +Bath_ thus:-- + + "In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest: + Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the" + +[Illustration: Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.] + +And again, in the "Reve's Tale," the Miller said:-- + + "I trow, the clerkes were aferde + Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde, + For all his art." + +A more familiar saying is "To beard a person," meaning to affront him, +or to set him at defiance. Todd explains the allusion in a note in his +edition of Spenser's _Faerie Queene_--"did beard affront him to his +face"; so Shakespeare's _King Henry IV._, Part I. Act i.: "I beard thee +to thy face"--Fr. "Faire la Barbe à quelqu'un." Ital. "Fa la barbe ad +uno" (Upton.) + +See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in _King Henry IV._, +which is adopted, he says, "from romances, and originally signified to +'cut off the beard.'" Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly +indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs +attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to +Achilles, as translated by Chapman:-- + + --"and so tell thy strength how eminent + My power is, being compared with thine; + all other making feare + To vaunt equality with me, or in this + proud kind beare + Their beards against me." + +In Shirley's play, _A Contention for Honour and Riches_, 1633:-- + + "You have worn a sword thus long to show ye hilt, + Now let the blade appear. + COURTIER.--Good Captain Voice, + It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet + No ague, I can look upon your buff, + And punto beard, and call for no strong waters." + +"It is difficult to ascertain," says Repton, "when the custom of pulling +the nose superseded that of pulling the beard, but most probably when +the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for +insult." In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of +Devonshire, paid £30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court. +An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's +_Epicæne, or the Silent Woman_, Act iv. sc. 5. + +In "Aubrey's Letters" is an allusion to wiping the beard. "Ralph Kettle, +D.D.," we read, "preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in +conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt +up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from +the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was +their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return +to wayte on their masters)." An old play by Lyly, entitled _Mother +Bombie_ (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:-- + +"Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a +handkerchief." + +Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little +book, "Some account of the Beard and Moustachio," of which one hundred +copies were printed for private circulation in 1839. + +The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard +to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's _Antonio and Melida_, +(1602), Act v., we read as follows:-- + +"PIERO.--Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry? + +"ROSSALINE.--Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy, +forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long. +Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of +furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming +chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable." + +In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios. +We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking +beards. "There is no accounting," says Repton, "for the taste of ladies. +Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the +heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may +not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady +(_i.e._ the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have +a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the +fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's +beard is not recorded in the history of England." Many references find a +place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard. + +Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if +carefully performed. It is stated in the "Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas," +published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey +merchant, that he was very nice in the mode of that age, his valet +being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his +whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a +companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we +have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect +the beard from being disarranged. + + + + +TAXING THE BEARD + + +Beards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the +same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for +nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement +of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given +up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the +prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore +either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred +roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A +peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to +one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave +rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it the utmost vigilance had +to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding +this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which +had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained +their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles +annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was +sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in +1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this +tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the +edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726. + +A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in +agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all +other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a +firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by +which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were +entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax +of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes. + +In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all +their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762, +intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some +stringent measures; but his sudden death prevented them from being put +into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings +in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed +every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks, +who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to +return, and assigned land to them for their settlement. + +[Illustration: Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705.] + +During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodoráia (the +bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these +tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth, +moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription "dinge +vsatia," which means "money received"; the reverse bears the year in +Russian characters (equivalent to "1705 year"), and the black eagle of +the empire. + +Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the +"Numismatic Chronicle," volume vii., 1845. He says that beard-tokens +are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin +probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served +their purpose for the year. + + + + +POWDERING THE HAIR + + +In the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many +circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We +learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it +was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of +the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period +gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. "The hair of +Commodus," it is stated on the authority of Herodian, "glittered from +its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust +with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have +been thought that his head was on fire." + +It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons +used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon +pictures the beard and hair are often painted blue. Strutt supplies +interesting notes on the subject. "In some instances," he says, "which, +indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red +colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt +existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this +period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing +it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient +Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably +to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine." + +It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made +of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was +maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until +after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen +greatly increased the popularity of the practice. + +The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those +of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled +"Wit's Recreations," 1640, the following appears under the heading of +_Our Monsieur Powder-wig_:-- + + "Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet! + How like a pageant he doth walk the street! + See how his perfumed head is powdered ore; + 'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before." + +In "Musarum Deliciæ," 1655, we read:-- + + "At the devill's shopps you buy + A dresse of powdered hayre, + On which your feathers flaunt and fly; + But i'de wish you have a care, + Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder, + Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder." + +From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared "The Impartial Monitor." +The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words: +"It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and +shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these +likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and +scorn them for it." A _Loyal Litany_ against the Oliverians runs thus:-- + + "From a king-killing saint, + Patch, powder, and paint, + Libera nos, Domine." + +Massinger, in the "City Madam," printed in 1679, describing the dress of +a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:-- + + "Since your husband was knighted, as I said, + The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair + Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art, + Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds + And richest orient pearls." + +John Gay, in his poem, "Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of +London," published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb-- + + "Him like the Miller, pass with caution by, + Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly." + +We learn from the "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons" some particulars +respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, "Mr John Brooks," +it is stated, "attended and produced a deed to which he requested the +subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of +Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a +duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and +of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no +perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of +alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents +excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder, +under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and £50, and that any person +who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and £20." Other +details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their +support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the +Bill through Parliament. + +A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the +_Gentleman's Magazine_ particulars of some convictions for using powder +not made in accordance with the laws of the land. "On the 20th October, +1745," it is recorded, "fifty-one barbers were convicted before the +commissioners of excise, and fined in the penalty of £20, for having in +their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of +Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers +were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty." + +Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and +powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any +pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known +as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went +behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of +powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In +the _Rambler_, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that +his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about +with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat +uncocked. + +We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an +Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power, +and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a +guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet +much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a +considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as £200,000 a year. Fox, +with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious +fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition were +unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful +rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most +fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his "get up" +about 1770, drawn from the _Monthly Magazine_: "He had his chapeau-bas, +his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder." Later, when Pitt's tax +was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more +than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their +hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to +a number of Crop Clubs. The _Times_ for April 14th, 1795, contains +particulars of one. "A numerous club," says the paragraph, "has been +formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his +entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of +Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for +the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads." +Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society. +The _Times_ of April 25th, 1795, reports that: "The following noblemen +and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn +Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took +place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They +entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of them +wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many +noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the +example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the +ladies have left off wearing powder." Hair powder did not long continue +in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high +price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the +hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the +"Art of Dressing the Hair," 1770, the author complains:-- + + "Their hoarded grain contractors spare, + And starve the poor to beautify the hair." + +Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced +£210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three +shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The +Whigs might taunt them by calling them "guinea-pigs," it mattered +little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves, +but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons +were exempt from paying the tax, including "the royal family and their +servants, the clergy with an income of under £100 per annum, subalterns, +non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers +enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two unmarried +daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder." +A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman, +etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly +engaged servants. + +Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with +consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her +desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was +made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is +much more likely that the artists painted the hair "full and flowing" +because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their +patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to +do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy, +and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people +discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use. +With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of +"The Antiquary:" "Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an +old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish, +which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the +operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided +his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him. + +"'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'), +holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an +answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the +provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah, +sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane +by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's +time--and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi' +the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day, +Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted +their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as +they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on +his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise +against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons, +and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my +blocks.'" It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic. +"In the eighteenth century," says Mrs G. Linnæus Banks, author of the +"Manchester Man" and other popular novels, "he waited on his chief +customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to +powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes. +Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in +advance, and sent home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a +barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered +top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a +rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least +a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupée +or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well +understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser +was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging +the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering +with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or +disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep +was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was +rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of +imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine +ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong +stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them." + +When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was +heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account +of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances +sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers +were fined sums from £64, 5s. to £106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the +matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should +refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour. +King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household +to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to +be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as +was eaten by the servants. + +A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made +to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation +issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the +office of the Town Clerk:-- + + "DISUSE OF HAIR POWDER. + + "Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming + approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns + throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off + for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which + means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the + nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be + prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and + principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example + as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military + will not hesitate to adopt it, being fully convinced that + appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal, + and that in doing this they really do good. + + "W. TAYLOR, Mayor. + + "January 27th, 1795." + +Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House +of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked +a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time, +and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to +the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it +received the royal assent. + +We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull +was fined £10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having +been baked, agreeable to Act of Parliament for that purpose. + +The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use +hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent +antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. "So late as +1820," says Dr Cox, "Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for +some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known +clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder, +and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous +revolutionist." In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only +some 800 persons paid it, producing about £1000 per year. + + + + +THE AGE OF WIGS + + +At the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of +fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone +times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear +in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and +style. + +[Illustration: Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British +Museum.] + +To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far +distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians +are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but +as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On +the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in +the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female, +and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in +Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the +head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from the rays +of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to +escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The +specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair +in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited +hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if +it had been hair growing on the head. + +Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is +recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians, +Carians, Greeks, and Romans. _Galerus_, a round cap, was the common name +among the Romans for a wig. + +The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the +Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his +simple sister Gorgonia, said "she neither cared to curl her own hair, +nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig." St Jerome +pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter +received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly, +condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming +down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even +if worn as a joke. "There is no joke in the matter," said the enraged St +Bernard: "the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin." St John +Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be +mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion. + +Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its +authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing +wigs. "Prætexta," to use Doran's words, "was a very respectable lady, +married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece, +Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband, +Prætexta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress +and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the +modest maiden so attired, Prætexta went to bed. To that bedside +immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows +of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit, +'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the +hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this +do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy +crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months +more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou +art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and +thy children shall die even before thee.'" + +Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and +the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so +runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at +church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind +that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to +the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them +to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing. + +History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present +investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated. +Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have +their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians +were keenly alive to their ridiculous appearance. The king's general +was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be +imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became +the pink of Lycian fashion. + +Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs, +one to improve, and the other to disguise his person. + +Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen, +but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of +the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into +this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not +often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest +payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and +is for twenty shillings "for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool." +Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs, +became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of +Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court +perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes. +In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Académie de France +des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their +heads. He tells us "the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums +spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of +wigs at Court, and tried to introduce a kind of cap." He lost the day, +for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went +out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and +some even cost £200 apiece. + +Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal +wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring +the fashion to Whitehall. "He forbade," we are told, "the members of the +Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons. +The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the +first two." + +Pepys' "Diary" contains much interesting information concerning wigs. +Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: "I heard the Duke say that +he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never +till this day observed that the King is mighty gray." It was perhaps the +change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume +the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned. + +As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted +the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with +Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his "Diary" to +one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, "I did try two or +three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no +stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He +trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my +first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also." +Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys +was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys, +and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at +Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his +"Diary," that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it; +but he said, "I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to +periwigs." Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: "Lord's day. +Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig, +bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in +Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in +fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare +to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the +heads of people dead of the plague." + +We learn from an entry in the "Diary" for June 11th, 1666, that ladies, +in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs. +"Walking in the galleries at Whitehall," observes Mr Pepys, "I find the +ladies of honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets +with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their +doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for +long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them +for women in any point whatever." Pepys, we have seen, wondered if +periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he +was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and +its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore, +perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of +depression. + +[Illustration: The Earl of Albemarle.] + +In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable +example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of +Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig. +Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived. + +The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket +beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places, +combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies. +Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John +Hawkins, in his "History of Music," published in 1776, has an informing +note on combing customs. "On the Mall and in the theatre," he tells us, +"gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a +fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his +levée, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with +large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs, +while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb +has passed through them." Allusions to this practice may be found in the +plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We +read in Dryden's prologue to "Almanzor and Almahide":-- + + "But as when vizard mask appears in pit, + Straight every man who thinks himself a wit + Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace, + With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face." + +Says Congreve, in the "Way of the World":-- + + "The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you." + +[Illustration: Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the +period_).] + +Thomas Brown, in his "Letters from the Dead to the Living," presents a +pen-portrait of beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the +eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as +they contain valuable information concerning wigs. "We met," says the +writer, "three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle +made a most magnificent figure--his periwig was large enough to have +loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I +warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk, +that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the +bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left +arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his +cane, that hung negligently down in a string from his right arm, +trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it +was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself." About this +period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad, +describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84, +mentions amongst those present:-- + + "A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff." + +[Illustration: Campaign Wig.] + +Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase +in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a +few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his "Academy of +Armory," published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we +will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called +the campaign-wig. He says it "hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each +side, with a curled forehead." This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we +have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig +with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail. +It was of various forms, and Swift says:-- + + "We who wear our wigs + With fantail and with snake." + +[Illustration: Periwig with Tail.] + +A third example given by Holme is named the "short-bob," and is a plain +peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. "Perukes," says Malcolm, in +his "Manners and Customs," "were an highly important article in 1734. +Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle +ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five +shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white, +fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray +bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of +dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be +observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in +fashion, and dark of no estimation." As time ran its course, wigs became +more varied in form, and bore different names. + +[Illustration: Ramillie Wig.] + +We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black +riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the +long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough, +gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave +the title to a long wig described as "having a long, gradually +diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied +with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the bottom." It was +at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost +the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity +of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his "Henry +Esmond," as "a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great +periwig and red heels." Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the +French king: "Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he +increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its +similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was +never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his +practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his +curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it +to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great +Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous." It is stated in +Read's _Weekly Journal_ of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of +the Prince of Wales, that "the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards +wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order." This wig survived until +the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms +of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, was +the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up +in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was +popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced +to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is +recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent, +the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying, +"Ichabod, for the glory was departed." + +[Illustration: Pig-tail Wig.] + +In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and +that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome. + +[Illustration: Bag-Wig.] + +Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as +a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle +of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual +taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time. +In this example may be observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the +frizziness over the forehead. + +We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait +of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of +Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication +of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land. +Farquhar, in a comedy called "Love and a Bottle," brought out in 1698, +says, "A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the +laurel." + +Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to +adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: "I can remember since the +wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first +magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did +either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and +if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would +point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal." Dr +Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons, +and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume, +in 1765, was issued under the title of "Free Advice to a Young +Clergyman," from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he +recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had +made his own hair respectable. Dr Randolph, on his advancement to the +bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without +wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said, +"My lord, you must have a wig." Bishops wore wigs until the days of +William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to +set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the +marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in +his wig. + +Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period: +perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, "The Mock +Doctor," who exclaims, "I must have a physician's habit, for a physician +can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee." The wig +known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:-- + + "Physic of old her entry made + Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade; + While the gilt cane, with solemn pride + To each suspicious nose applied, + Seemed but a necessary prop + To bear the weight of wig at top." + +We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song +which commenced:-- + + "If you would see a noble wig, + And in that wig a man look big, + To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy, + And gaze on Dr Delmahoy." + +In the middle of the last century so much importance was attached to +this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was +in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming: +"Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!" + +Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of +Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to +judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and +curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head +with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from +five to six guineas. + +An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge +Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. "I hear your voice," +sternly said his Lordship, "but I cannot see you." The barrister had to +obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would +listen to him. + +Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the +peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He +was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation. +In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old +judges did not wear them. "True," said the king; "the old judges wore +beards." + +In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both +bench and bar discarding the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at +Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court, +and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next +day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their +professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous +day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the +mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded. + +We learn from a report in the _Times_ of July 24th, 1868, that on +account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in +the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared +without wigs. + +On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case +for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission +to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat. + +Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at +the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did +were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition, +to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and +curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and +frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It +will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased +the beauty of a pretty face. + +Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore +false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their +hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks. + +[Illustration: Heart-Breakers.] + +It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not +merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in +England. From "The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart," it +appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it +to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being +false. + +We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666. +Coming down to later times, we read in the _Whitehall Evening Post_ of +August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards, +the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding habits, with +hats, and feathers, and periwigs." + +[Illustration: With and Without a Wig.] + +It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that +its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of +Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings, +O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account +of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking +to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, "Take +off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier." The witty +Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd, +by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald +pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was +scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly +on O'Connell's side. + +An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year +1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public +ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand, +and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him, +he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may +be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his +attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the +wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it +may be added, was short of hair. + +Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth +century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. "Had I +lived in the reign of good Queen Anne," wrote Lord Lyttelton, "my baby +face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as +that which bedecks the head and shoulders of Mr Justice Blackstone when +he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him." We learn +from Miss Agnes Strickland that "Marie Antoinette was the first person +who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures +of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue +jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs +and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been +points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence," she +says, when writing her history, "who can remember, at six years old, +joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte, +dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered +side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles." + +It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed +wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord +Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who +had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but +he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield, +and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster +Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is +represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation, +which was fully reported in the _Times_ for 1823. An action, it is +stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to +recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the +possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig +had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the +legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told, +he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The +plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its +recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the +plaintiff the sum of £2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic. + +[Illustration: Lord Mansfield.] + + + + +STEALING WIGS + + +[Illustration: Stealing a Wig.] + +In the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English +gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden +time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were +not lost. Swift says:-- + + "Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs, + Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs." + +Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are +told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes +a successful mode of operation: "A boy was carried covered over in a +butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by +the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an +accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence of assisting him +while the tray-bearer made off." Gay, in _Trivia_, thus writes:-- + + "Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn: + High on the shoulders in a basket borne + Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred, + Plucks off the curling honours of thy head." + + + + +THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT + + +On February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets +of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the +peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A +large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and +distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might +be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up +for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the +wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St +James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but +it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity. + +Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the +metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not fare +so well. "As the distressed men went processionally through the town," +says the account, "it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who +wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this +striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and +inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair +per force." + +Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters. +"Should we wonder," he writes, "if carpenters were to remonstrate that +since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?" The wags of the +period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to +provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published +purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to +wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal +presence with the same graceful decoration. + + + + +THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT + + +At the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to +realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a +century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a +fashion which has become general. In the first year of the reign of +Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at +Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the +moustache. The following Report is drawn from the _Times_ of September +21st, 1837: "Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said +he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad, +applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant, +under the following ludicrous circumstances. + +"Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for? + +"Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most +haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I +goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates +said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I. +'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look +like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a +fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit +half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot +sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to +have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they +weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and +stole my dinner out of the pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want +your advice respecting my mustachios. + +"Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off +without loss of time. + +"Applicant: Can't part with a single hair. + +"Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose? + +"Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had +such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life. + +"Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long +hair hanging from his lip? + +"Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes +me look like a man of some courage. + +"Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the +fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself? +It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with +mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin, +which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice, +I can't assist you. + +"Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip? + +"Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you. + +"Applicant: No, they didn't. + +"Mr Rawlinson: How's that? + +"Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only +young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me. + +"Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You +may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not." + +"The man with the mustachios then withdrew." + +About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War +had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use +of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and +attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in +England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George +Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable +figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance, +with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th +July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache +movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the +representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in +the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on +Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was +remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:-- + + Three Colonels, in three distant counties born, + Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn. + The first in matchless impudence surpass'd, + The next in bigotry, in both the last, + The force of nature could no further go, + To beard the first she shaved the other two. + +It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated +tribute to Milton. + +[Illustration: George Frederick Muntz, M.P.] + +The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded +politician. It is related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow +journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow +progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the +Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily +hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party +that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural +population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the +point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to +succumb, and that he was "determined to face it out." + +We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused +a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on +a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not +then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by +his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half +a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in +his "Backward Glances" (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain +Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the +well-known editor of the _Scotsman_, to Loch Long, when he saw some +carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. "Sitting +obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car," says the doctor, "was a portly +personage with a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise +distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry +Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he +had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on +the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite +impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense +would never wear a moustache.'" We may gather from the foregoing the +prejudice of the period against facial adornments. + +From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of +Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a +moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, "Jew, Jew, +Jew," or "Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy," and, if that did not make any +impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten +laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of +a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial +artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding +town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he +was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from +the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many +follow his lead. + +A teacher of music was the first to wear a moustache in Nottingham. He +attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great +curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music +master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with +whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won +his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible +young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was +regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short +engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the +moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham. + +Mr W.P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing "Autobiography," and +devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to "The Bearded +Model." He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how +at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day +his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be +teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. "Why don't +you get your 'air cut?" said one. "Yah! where's your bundle of old +clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?" said another, +"Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?" and so on. +All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey +beard, then such a rarity. The young gentlemen had mistaken their man. +He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew. +How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present +studies. + +Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent +Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted +their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr +Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. "I +well remember," says Mr Frith, "a book illustrator named Stuart, who, +according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England +instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent +from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he +was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his +pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched +into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous +conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them +forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The +Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the +treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that +the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction +of his utterly unreliable character and general dishonesty in +consequence of his beard--one man going so far as to tell him it cost +him £200 a year--he refused to remove it." Mr Frith says when the +Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme +poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund +established to meet cases like his. + +The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache +movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England +issued an order "that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during +business hours." It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order +was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in +the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid +manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old +servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face +and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made +shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to +his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer +to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him +until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor. + +In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be +dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should +regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about +the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable +authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors +served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache. +On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use +of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example +he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the +adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught +cold, and in a few days died. + +[Illustration: Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.] + +An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that +any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was +strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago. + +Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, "Bench +and Bar Reminiscences" (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of +our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and +certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the +face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of +the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister, +named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a +long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave +offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other +exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held, +and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action. +Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge +him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the +ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was +under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the +unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea, +a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the +Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. "This was," says +Mr Serjeant Robinson, "the worst that could befall him, for of course he +could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the +court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of +carrying out the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did +not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared +afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had +been driven from practising his profession in the courts." + +Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the +reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should +appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth. + +Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the +present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the +martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the +Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the +military appearance of the citizen soldier. + +Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often +contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In +modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given +rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the +newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which +included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches +among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and +against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more +than one book dealing with the subject. An author issued "An Apology +for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in +particular" (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against +shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in +book form a "Defence of the Beard." He dealt with his subject on +scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow +a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good +taste. Mr. Ward asked, "What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who +would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?" The artist set an +example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the +title-page of another work was declared: "A Breach of the Sabbath, and a +Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel." The writer designated himself +"Theologos." If his views were carried out, it would lead to the +practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath +anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High +Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is +discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks +joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop +was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give +up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused +towards the close of 1892 when it became known that the Archbishop of +York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several +quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard +swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern +Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He +had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination, +but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final +effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not +time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing +so, and asked why he should. "Well," said the chaplain, "you see the +saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches." "That may +be so," said the candidate, "but as I am not intended to be a saint and +stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain." + +Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899, +Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph +in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it +out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. "After +a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next +paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the +curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took +up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has +joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of +His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I +felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper +and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in +London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the +reporters--I don't know which--in which he held up the Bishop of +Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded +their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the +contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have +thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their +moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but +a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply +with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had +of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this +newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard--I have not seen +it--that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of +Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry +after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example +of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the +most astounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never +said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would +forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not +personal to myself and to many of those in this tent." + +A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. "The +vicar of an East London parish," said the bishop, "was one of the first +London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to +stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent +his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should +otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied +that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and +would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the +bishop retracted." + +We are told in the "Life of R.W. Dale" (London, 1898) that this famous +Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with "long black +hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane." In a year or two +it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some +hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were +scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in +protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers "with an air of +levity and worldliness." A letter of approval purported to come from +the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H.D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had +his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as +follows:-- + + "REVEREND AND BEARDED SIR,--It rejoiced my shade to see + you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the + identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that + unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the + 'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are." + +Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of +the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. "John, John!" cried the +reverend sufferer, "it's a dreadful thing that drink!" "'Deed it is, +sir," mildly assented John, "it makes the skin unco tender." + +The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the +younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William +Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be +readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of +reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was +moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: "That +it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to +wear a beard and moustache if they think fit." A week later, namely, on +December 7th, at the Watch Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and +seconded by Mr Fountain: "That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of +December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and +moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee." It was +pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the +passing of the resolution, that it would give a "fierce appearance to +the police." + +In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the +moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow +their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and +conditions of men. + +The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd +came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of +moustaches by his sons in the following terms: "In case my son Edward +shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper +Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his +appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall +wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called +Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said +son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns." + +Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by his will, proved in 1869, +left £10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and +to those who persisted in wearing them, £5 only. + +In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: "French +motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs +shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they +declare to be a sanitary protection." + + + + +INDEX + + +Absalom, 7, 8 +Age of wigs, 71-93 +Agrarian law repealed, 48 +Albemarle, Earl of, 78 +---- Duchess of, 17 +Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, 27 +Alfreton, 102 +Anne, Queen, 82 +Assyrian sculptures, 72 +"_Antiquarian Repertory_," quoted, 2 +"_Athenian Oracle_," quoted, 1 +Aubrey, quoted, 17, 54 + +Bag-wig, 84 +Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, 32 +Ballad of the Beard, 41-44 +Banks, Mrs G. Linnæus, quoted, 67 +Banks and the moustache, 105 +Bar and the moustache, 107 +Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, 26 +Barber's pole, 1-8 +Barber's shop, 8-24 +Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, 28 +---- separate, 31 +Barbers' Company, first Master of the, 27 +Barnard Castle, 18 +Barristers without wigs, 88 +Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, 84 +Bayeux tapestry, 34 +Beard protection against neuralgia, 99 +Beardie Scott, 47 +Beardless Britons, 33 +Bible, quoted, 33 +Bleeding at Northallerton, 31 +Blomfield, Bishop, 86 +Boxing the beard, 56 +Brand's "Popular Antiquities," 5 +_British Apollo_, quoted, 6 +Britons, 33 +Brontë, Rev. P., story about, 25, 26 +Bygone beards, 33-56 + +Campaign wig, 81 +Canterbury, Sheriff of, 36 +Cavaliers, 44 +Chair, barber's, 14 +Charles I., 38, 44, 48 +---- II., 25 +Charlotte, Queen, 66 +Chaucer, quoted, 52 +Chester barber-surgeons, 23 +Church denounces wigs, 73 +---- denounces moustache, 108 +Churchyards, barbers shave in, 21, 23 +Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, 26 +Cloth of gold, 55 +Cockburn, Judge, 87 +Combing the wig, 79 +Congreve, 79 +"_Comenii Orbis Pictus_," quoted, 2 +Comenius, Bishop, 2 +Contractors and the moustache, 105 +Cox, Rev. Dr J.C., quoted, 70 +Crimean War, 99 +Crop clubs, 64 +Curing a joking duke, 18 +Cyprus customs, 50 + +Dale, R.W., 112 +Defence of the beard, 109 +Delmahoy's wig, 86 +Demanding the beard, 51 +Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24, 25 +Disuse of hair powder, 69 +Doran, Dr, quoted, 73 +Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, 104 +Drury Lane, five women barbers of, 17 +Dryden, quoted, 79 +Duke and barber's boy, 18 +Dyeing the beard, 37 + +Earliest mention of the beard, 33 +Early gild in London, 27 +Eastern potentate, 35 +Eden, Dr, and the moustache, 110 +Egyptian wigs, 71 +Eldon, Lord, 87 +Elizabeth, Queen, 37, 38 +Epigram on three colonels, 100 +Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, 32 + +Fairholt, F.W., 41 +False hair worn by women, 88 +Farquhar, 20 +Female follies, 61 +Fined for wearing beards, 35, 36 +First illustrated school book, 2 +Forfeits, 14-16 +Fox, C.J., 64 +France, wig mania in, 75 +Free advice to a young clergyman, 85 +Frith, W.P., "Autobiography" quoted, 103 +From barber to surgeon, 26-32 +Frost fair, 81 + +Gallants, gathering of, 9 +Galley-pot, 5 +Garrick, 14 +Gauls, 60 +Gay, J., quoted, 13, 61, 95 +_Gentleman's Magazine_, quoted, 62 +George III. and wig-makers, 95 +---- sets his subjects a good example, 69 +---- IV. and Dr Randolph, 86 +Gold-dust used as hair-powder, 59 +Grain, high price of, 68 +Great seal, 76 +Guitar, 9 + +Hannibal, 75 +Hastings, Battle of, 33 +Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, 70 +Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, 79 +Heart-Breakers, 89 +Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, 101 +Henry VI., 48 +Henry VIII., 35 +Hentzner, quoted, 89 +High Church clergymen, 109 +Hodgson, Professor, 113 +Holbein's picture, 28 +Holme, R., quoted, 81 +House of Peers, 5 +How, Dr Walsham, 112 +Hull baker fined, 70 +---- candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, 110 +---- policemen and the moustache, 113 +---- timber merchant and the moustache, 110 + +"Impartial Monitor," quoted, 61 +Incorporation of Barbers, 28 +Irish Shaving Statute, 47 + +Jewish custom, 26 +Jews used hair-powder, 59 +Johnson, Dr, 16 +Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24 +Julius II., 34 +Juvenile wigs, 92 + +Kauffmann, A., 66 +Kenealy, Dr, 88 +Kenrick, Dr, 16 +King's barber, 19 +Knox, John, 36, 37 + +Last barber-surgeon in London, 31 +Laud, Archbishop, 51 +"Letters from the Dead to the Living," 79 +Lichfield, 20 +Lincoln's Inn and the beard, 35 +London women barbers, 17 +Lord's Day observance, 21-25 +Louis XIV., 83 +Louth, 18 +Lowe, Rev. H.D., 113 +"Loyal Litany," quoted, 61 +Lyttelton, Lord, 91 + +Macedonian soldiers, 48 +Maclaren, C., editor of the _Scotsman_, 102 +Magistrate and the moustache, 97 +Malcolm, quoted, 82 +Manner of using hair powder, 63, 68 +Mansfield, Lord, 92 +Marie Antoinette, 92 +Marston, quoted, 54 +Mary Queen of Scots, 89 +Massinger, quoted, 61 +Medical men and wigs, 86 +Ministers shaving on Sunday, 24, 25 +Missal, 5 +Mock doctor, 86 +More, Rev. J., 36 +---- Sir Thomas, 36 +Moustache and the motor-car, 115 +---- movement, 96-115 +Muffs, 80 +Muntz, G.F., 99 +Music, barber's, 9, 21 + +Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, 24 +_Notes and Queries_, quoted, 16, 47 +Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, 103 + +Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, 27 +O'Connell, D., 90 +One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, 84 + +Paris, massacre of, 75 +Pepys, quoted, 31, 76 +Percival, Col., 99 +Periwig with tail, 81 +Peter the Great, 91 +Phlebotomy, 2-5 +Pig-tail, 84 +Pitt, 63 +Plucking the beard, 48, 49 +Poetical signs, 7, 8 +Politics and the moustache, 101 +Pontefract, 23 +Powdering the hair, 59-71 +Pulling the nose, 54 +Puritans, 11 + +"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," 9 + +"Rambler," quoted, 63 +Ramillies, Battle of, 82 +---- wig, 83 +Reading regulations, 9 +Red rag, 5 +Reform Bill, 84 +Repton, J.A., 41 +Retailer of scandal, 8 +Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 66 +Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, 106 +Rogers, Dr C., quoted, 24 +Romans and hair-powder, 59 +Russian laws, 56-59 +Ryle, Bishop, 109 + +Sandy-coloured hair, 60 +Saxons and hair-powder, 59 +Sayings, old, 51-56 +Saywell, Rev. J.L., quoted, 31 +Scarborough, woman barber at, 17 +Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 66 +Sealing custom, 35 +Shakespeare, quoted, 14, 53 +Shaving heads, 74 +Sheppard, Mr, M.P., 84 +Shirley, quoted, 53 +Short-bob, 83 +Sibthorp, Col., 99 +Speaker's wig, 87 +Starching the beard, 55 +Stealing wigs, 93-95 +Stephen, King, 75 +Stow, quoted, 75 +Stratford-on-Avon, 14 +Street frays, 9 +Strickland, Agnes, quoted, 92 +Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, 5 +Strutt, quoted, 60 +Stuart, artist, story of, 114 +Stubbes, 12 +Stupid barbers unknown, 8 +Sumner, Archbishop, 86 +Sunday shaving, 21-25 +Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, 5 +Swift, quoted, 5-7, 94 + +Taxing hair-powder, 62, 63, 65 +---- the beard, 37, 56-59 +Taylor the Water Poet, 38, 41 +Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, 31 +"Thirsk Forfeits," 15 +Thurlow, Lord, 5 +Tichborne trial, 88 +Tiles, fine of, 9 +Tillotson, Dr, 85 +Timbs, John, quoted, 31 +_Times_, quoted, 64, 88, 97 +Token, beard, 58 +Tours, Edict of, 27 +Tragic story, 48 + +Verner, Col., 99 +Vizetelly, quoted, 50 + +Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, 102 +Walpole, Horace, quoted, 96 +---- Sir Robert, 85 +Ward, James, quoted, 109 +Wesleyans and the beard, 113 +_Whitehall Evening Post_, quoted, 90 +Wig-makers' riot, 95, 96 +Williams, noted barber, 92 +Wills and the moustache, 114 +With and without wigs, 90 +"Wits' Recreations," quoted, 60 +Women barbers, 16-18 +Working hours, long, 9 +Workshop and Sunday shaving, 23 + +Yarmouth, curious bill at, 69 +York, Archbishop of, 110 +---- Gild of Barber-Surgeons, 21 +"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, 15, 16 + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by +William Andrews + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + +***** This file should be named 19925-8.txt or 19925-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/9/2/19925/ + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole + Studies In Hirsute History + +Author: William Andrews + +Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + + + + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="notes"> +<p>Transcriber's Notes:</p> + +<p>Larger images may be viewed by clicking on any picture except the ornate letters.</p> + +</div> + +<hr /> +<hr /> + +<div class="center"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<a href="images/frontis.png"><img src="images/frontis-th.png" width="311" height="373" +alt="The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. +Wigs in Parliament." +title="The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. +Wigs in Parliament." /></a> +<p class="caption">The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. +Wigs in Parliament.</p> +</div> + +<h1>AT THE SIGN<br /> +OF THE BARBER'S POLE</h1> + +<h2>STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY</h2> + +<div style="height: 2em;"><br /></div> + +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>WILLIAM ANDREWS</h2> + +<h4>AUTHOR OF "BYGONE ENGLAND"<br /> +ETC.</h4> + +<div style="height: 5em;"><br /></div> + +<h5>COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE<br /> +J. R. TUTIN<br /> +1904</h5> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a>PREFACE</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/c.png" width="100" height="100" alt="C" title="C" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">onnected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of +history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust +not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting +matters that gather round the man and his trade.</p> + +<p>In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted, +and among those which have yielded me the most information must be +mentioned the following:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London," by Sidney Young, London, + 1890.</p> + +<p> "An Apology for the Beard," by Artium Magister, London, 1862.</p> + +<p> "Barbers' Company," by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881.</p> + +<p> "Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers," by D. Embleton, M.D., + Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891.</p> + +<p> "Barber's Shop," by R. W. Proctor, edited by W. E. A. Axon, + Manchester, 1883.</p> + +<p> "Philosophy of Beards," by T. S. Cowing, Ipswich.</p> + +<p> "Some Account of the Beard and the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a>Moustachio," by John Adey + Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839.</p> + +<p> "Why Shave?" by H. M., London.</p></blockquote> + +<p><em>Notes and Queries</em>, and other periodicals, as well as encyclopædias, +books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous +friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with +gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to <em>Notes +and Queries</em>.</p> + +<p>Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but +all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them.</p> + +<p>In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the +byways of history.</p> + + +<p style="text-align:right;">WILLIAM ANDREWS.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Royal Institution, Hull,</span><br /> +<em>August 11th</em>, 1904.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table class="toc" cellpadding="5" summary=""> +<tr><td>The Barber's Pole</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Barber's Shop</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Sunday Shaving</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>From Barber to Surgeon</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Bygone Beards</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Taxing the Beard</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Powdering the Hair</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Age of Wigs</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Stealing Wigs</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Wig-Makers' Riot</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Moustache Movement</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Index</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a><br /></p> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table class="il" cellpadding="5" summary=""> +<tr><td>The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. + Wigs in Parliament</td><td align="right"><a href="#frontis"><em>Frontispiece</em></a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus"</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Bayeux Tapestry</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>John Knox, born 1505, died 1572</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret + through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord + Mayor</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Beards in the Olden Time</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published + immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in + Fashion in 1605</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Russian Beard Token, <abbr>A.D.</abbr> 1705</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British + Museum</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>The Earl of Albemarle</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (<em>from a print of the period</em>)</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Campaign Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Periwig with Tail</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_82">82</a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv"></a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Ramillie Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Pig-tail Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Bag-Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Heart-Breakers</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>With and Without a Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Lord Mansfield</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Stealing a Wig</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>George Frederick Muntz, M.P.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td>Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>THE BARBER'S POLE</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">n most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of +shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the +pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of +the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and +fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and +meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct +solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant +times. An attempt is made in "The Athenian Oracle" (i. 334), to trace +the remote origin of the pole. "The barber's art," says the book, "was +so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome +had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they +were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those +beautiful leeches,<a name="FNanchor__1" id="FNanchor__1"></a><a href="#Footnote__1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In +cities and corporate towns they still retain their name +Barber-Chirurgions. They therefore used to hang their<a class="pagenum" name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> basons out upon +poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller +where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still +gibbet their signs, across a town." It is a doubtful solution of the +origin of the barber's sign.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote__1" id="Footnote__1"></a><a href="#FNanchor__1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>This is the old word for doctors or +surgeons.</p></div></div> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image24.png"> + <img src="images/image24-th.png" width="225" height="400" + alt="The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."" + title="The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."" /> + </a> + <p class="caption">The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."</p> +</div> + +<p>A more satisfactory explanation is given in the "Antiquarian Repertory." +"The barber's pole," it is there stated, "has been the subject of many +conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or +head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the +true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master +of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a +beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put +in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The +white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the +fillet thus elegantly twined about it." We reproduce a page from +"Comenii Orbis Pictus," perhaps better known under its English title of +the "Visible World." It is said to have been the first illustrated +school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in +1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the +writer of many works, including the "Visible World: or a Nomenclature, +and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's +Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper <a class="pagenum" name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>Cuts." Under each picture +are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in +English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was +able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other +"chief things that are in the World." For a century this was the most +popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than +fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest +the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's +reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a +patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds +in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is +stated in Brand's "Popular Antiquities" that an illustration in a missal +of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice.</p> + +<p>In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of +postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from +July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a +statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a +pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no +other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other +respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the +particular nature of their vocation.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>A question is put in the <em>British Apollo</em> (London, 1708):—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"... Why a barber at port-hole</p> +<p>Puts forth a party-coloured pole?"</p> +</div></div> + +<p>This is the answer given:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting,</p> +<p>And wounds and scars took much delight in,</p> +<p>Man-menders then had noble pay,</p> +<p>Which we call surgeons to this day.</p> +<p>'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole,</p> +<p>With bason deck'd should grace the hole,</p> +<p>To guide the wounded, who unlopt</p> +<p>Could walk, on stumps the others hopt;</p> +<p>But, when they ended all their wars,</p> +<p>And men grew out of love with scars,</p> +<p>Their trade decaying; to keep swimming</p> +<p>They joyn'd the other trade of trimming,</p> +<p>And on their poles to publish either,</p> +<p>Thus twisted both their trades together."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was +advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by +the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when +busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence, +adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small +public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two +businesses he might make a better living for his family.</p> + +<p>"Indeed," said the future Dean, "and what can I do to promote the happy +union?"</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>"And please you," said the barber, "some of our customers have heard +much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend +to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it +might be the making of me and mine for ever."</p> + +<p>"But what do you intend for your sign?" inquired the cleric.</p> + +<p>"The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one +hand and a full pot in the other."</p> + +<p>"Well," rejoined Swift, "in that case there can be no great difficulty +in supplying you with a suitable inscription." Taking up a pen he +instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the +sign and remained there for many years:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here,</p> +<p>Where nought excels the shaving but—the beer."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from +Goldsmith as follows:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Man wants but little beard below,</p> +<p>Nor wants that little long."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign +having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and +Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the +following terse epigram:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>"Passans, contemplez le malheur</p> +<p class="i2">D'Absalom pendu par la nuque;</p> +<p>Il aurait evité ce malheur,</p> +<p class="i2">S'il eut porté une perruque."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as +follows:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"The wretched Absalom behold,</p> +<p class="i2">Suspended by his flowing hair:</p> +<p>He might have 'scaped this hapless fate</p> +<p class="i2">Had he chosen a wig to wear."</p> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE BARBER'S SHOP</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/t.png" width="100" height="100" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">he old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a +notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved, +cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices. +When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed +the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which +he was not slow to make known—in confidence, and in an undertone, of +course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor; +urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of +this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and +never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts +have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that +compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the +following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading +Corporation: "Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man +after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from +Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the +town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand +tiles to the Guildhall."</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image1.png"> + <img src="images/image1-th.png" width="400" height="383" + alt="A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth." + title="A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country +thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or +take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the +barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the +gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds +dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter, +and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn +came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios +curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop +at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an +establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a +barber's shop in Greene's "Quip for an Upstart Courtier," pub<a class="pagenum" name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>lished in +1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair, +and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address +him: "Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian +manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make +it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears +and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will<a class="pagenum" name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> you be +Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may +wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen +scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready +to execute your worship's will." A couple of hours were spent in combing +and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's +basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and +with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be +shaven; "whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable +like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a +lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his +crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a +razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his +moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce +and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?—and with +every question a snip of the scissors and a bow." If a poor man entered +the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a +cheese, and dismissed with scarce a "God speed you."</p> + +<p>The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers. +No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the +Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and +the mean<a class="pagenum" name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a> style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the +common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. "And," wrote Stubbes with +indignation, "they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore, +when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to +look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern +in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of +cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done +all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be +preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one +ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead. +Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking +and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing, +what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure. +And when they come to washing—oh, how gingerly they behave themselves +therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam +that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they +use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then +snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended, +comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must +be picked, and closed together again,<a class="pagenum" name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> artificially, forsooth! The hair +of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to +behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest +these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their +pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at +all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they +will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any +again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off +his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque +simillimæ cygnis—rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans. +You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you +shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall +sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in +the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'"</p> + +<p>John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his "Fables," and in the one +entitled "The Goat Without a Beard" we get a description of the barber's +shop of the period:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"His pole, with pewter basins hung,</p> +<p>Black, rotten teeth in order strung,</p> +<p>Rang'd cups that in the window stood,</p> +<p>Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood,</p> +<p>Did well his threefold trade explain,</p> +<p>Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein."</p> +</div></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides:</p> +<p>Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits +used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which +were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the +customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight +of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the +following:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>For handling the razors,</p> +<p>For talking of cutting throats,</p> +<p>For calling hair-powder flour,</p> +<p>For meddling with anything on the shop-board.</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Shakespeare alludes to this custom in "Measure for Measure," Act v. sc. +1, as follows:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i10">"The strong statutes</p> +<p>Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop,</p> +<p>As much in mock as mark."</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image2.png"> + <img src="images/image2-th.png" width="325" height="400" + alt="William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)." + title="William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait)." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).</p> +</div> + +<p>Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop +in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an +apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a +barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that +the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to +have been in use for<a class="pagenum" name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a> centuries. The following lines have found their +way into several works, including Ingledew's "Ballads and Songs of +Yorkshire" (1860). In some collections the lines are headed "Rules for +Seemly Behaviour," and in others "The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits." We +draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we +have seen:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"First come, first served—then come not late,</p> +<p>And when arrived keep your sate;</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a> +<p>For he who from these rules shall swerve</p> +<p>Shall pay his forfeit—so observe.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Who enters here with boots and spurs</p> +<p>Must keep his nook, for if he stirs</p> +<p>And gives with arm'd heel a kick,</p> +<p>A pint he pays for every prick.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Who rudely takes another's turn</p> +<p>By forfeit glass—may manners learn;</p> +<p>Who reverentless shall swear or curse</p> +<p>Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Who checks the barber in his tale,</p> +<p>Shall pay for that a gill of yale;</p> +<p>Who will or cannot miss his hat</p> +<p>Whilst trimming pays a pint for that.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>"And he who can but will not pay</p> +<p>Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away;</p> +<p>For will he—nill he—if in fault,</p> +<p>He forfeit must in meal or malt.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>"But mark, the man who is in drink</p> +<p>Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his +review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated +that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter +has been discussed at some length in <em>Notes and Queries</em>, and it is +asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on +the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869.</p> + +<p>Women barbers in the olden time were by no<a class="pagenum" name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a> means uncommon in this +country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they +handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by +stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town +to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the +journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we +meet with allusions to "the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane," +who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of +Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of +them.</p> + +<p>At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand +was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St +Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman +wielder of the razor is mentioned in the "Topography of London," by J. T. +Smith. "On one occasion," writes Smith, "that I might indulge the humour +of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in +Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her +husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe." +He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street.</p> + +<p>Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to +Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was +postponed until they arrived at the watering-<a class="pagenum" name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>place. Shortly after +leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their +faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise +and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear +to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of +brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the +customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right +hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished +without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave +at Scarborough by a woman barber.</p> + +<p>At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop +kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his +work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have +shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men.</p> + +<p>Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting +barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as +related to us. The Duke of C—— upon one occasion entered a small +barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was +answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. "Can you +shave, then?" asked the duke. "Yes, sir, I always do," was the reply. +"But can you shave without cutting?" "Yes, sir, I'll try," answered the +youth. "Very well," said the<a class="pagenum" name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a> duke, while seating himself, and loading +his pistol; "but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here +I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin." After a +moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, "I'm not +afraid of cutting you, sir," and in a short time had completed the feat +without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle +tones his grace asked, "Were you not afraid of having your brains blown +out, when you might have cut me so easily?"</p> + +<p>"No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen +to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your +throat."</p> + +<p>The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to +be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A +lesson was taught him for life.</p> + +<p>The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the +most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his +mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the +barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the +future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against +summary execution.</p> + +<p>With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated<a class="pagenum" name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> an amusing story, in +which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure +of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous, +and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the +master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up +to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar +was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the +dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the +room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he +deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the +charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the +guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends. +Farquhar was not satisfied. "I am certain," he said, "that the little +humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this +morning." The host returned to the room and related the story which he +had just heard. "Ay, yes," replied the guest, who was a well-born +gentleman, "I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the +barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and +the barber was out, I shaved him."</p> + +<p>The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions +to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a<a class="pagenum" name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a> +customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time +playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a "barber's cittern for every +serving-man to play upon." Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at +the barber's shop. In the "Diary of Samuel Pepys" we read: "After supper +my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks +with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my +lord was well pleased." "My Lord was easily satisfied," says a +well-known contributor to <em>Punch</em>, "and in our day would probably have +enjoyed 'the horgans.'" We may rest assured that barber's music was of +questionable melody.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>SUNDAY SHAVING</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">n bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs +and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to +shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of +Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was +restrained.</p> + +<p>The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's +Day observ<a class="pagenum" name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>ance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten +shillings, "that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop +on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks." Another +law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:—"This court, taking +notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the +Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and +cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the +Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole +consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at +any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse, +barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public +or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or +place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the +same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord +Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and +adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that +then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence +10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said +Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to +the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being +are to make diligent search<a class="pagenum" name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a> in all such as aforesaid public or private +places for discovery of such offenders."</p> + +<p>The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester +shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:—</p> + +<p>"1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his +servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly +called Sunday."</p> + +<p>In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is +stated: "Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of +the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their +respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the +high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the +future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise +the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's +Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon +that day, either publicly or privately." We have in the last clause an +indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market +place.</p> + +<p>The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid +half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves "not to +shave on Sundays in the morning."</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it +was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that "no brother +should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto."</p> + +<p>The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a +Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the +settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they +can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr +Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone, +presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the +Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was +delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what +they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath.</p> + +<p>The Rev. Patrick Brontë, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual +Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense +of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of +the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make +known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and +failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an +anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local +lore. When Mr<a class="pagenum" name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a> Brontë resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village +that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving +himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious +disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a +clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview +with Mr Brontë on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he +observed: "I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I +never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else. +I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all +that is necessary."</p> + +<p>Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the +magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of +Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five +shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the +defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the +action.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>FROM BARBER TO SURGEON</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/f.png" width="100" height="100" alt="F" title="F" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">rom the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the +surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession +would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted +from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great +antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions +to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of +mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber +were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in +bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his +position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of +wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 <abbr>B.C.</abbr>, +and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met. +Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in <abbr>B.C.</abbr> 299.</p> + +<p>The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies +as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers +gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical +operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and +it was felt that this was incompatible<a class="pagenum" name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a> with the functions of the +clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of +Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons, +but they were permitted to dispense medicine.</p> + +<p>The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they +were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change +afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the +barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner. +It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention +of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in +London to have the blood "privately carried into the Thames under the +pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs."</p> + +<p>At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a +gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object +was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They +attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives. +Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and +subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first +master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As +time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> +In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were +incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding +monarchs.</p> + +<p>A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of +Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the +Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the +Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this +"not a pleasant though a good picture." It is the largest and last work +of Holbein.</p> + +<p>The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed +after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak +boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly +altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures +represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the +healing art of the period at which it was painted.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image3.png"> + <img src="images/image3-th.png" width="400" height="233" + alt="Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons." + title="Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the +barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: "No +person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery, +letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth." Laws were +made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The +barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons in<a class="pagenum" name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>creased their +income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however, +vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work.</p> + +<p>The Rev. J. L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his "History and Annals +of Northallerton" (1885). "Towards the early part of the nineteenth +century," observes Mr Saywell, "a singular custom prevailed in the town +and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the +year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females, +repaired to a surgeon to be bled—a process which they considered +essentially conduced to vigorous health." The charge for this operation +was one shilling.</p> + +<p>Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be +exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled +without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request +was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges +granted so long ago.</p> + +<p>In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of +Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in +London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only +dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he +had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry.</p> + +<p>Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious +epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as +follows:—</p> + +<blockquote><p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>"Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury, + Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October + 1699.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p><strong>T</strong>hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye,</p> +<p><strong>H</strong>ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye,</p> +<p><strong>O</strong>bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store,</p> +<p><strong>M</strong>ingled with common earth till time's no more.</p> +<p><strong>A</strong>gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine,</p> +<p><strong>S</strong>ince So much Merrett did his life resigne.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p><strong>M</strong>urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave,</p> +<p><strong>E</strong>lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have.</p> +<p><strong>R</strong>est in Peace; who like a faithful steward,</p> +<p><strong>R</strong>epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd;</p> +<p><strong>E</strong>ternall mansions do attend the Just,</p> +<p><strong>T</strong>o clothe with Immortality their dust,</p> +<p><strong>T</strong>ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust."</p> +</div></div> +</blockquote> + +<p>Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a +stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale, +barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah +Bloodworth. It ends thus:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace + 1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th + yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>This thing in life might raise some jealousy,</p> +<p>Here all three lie together lovingly,</p> +<p>But from embraces here no pleasure flows,</p> +<p>Alike are here all human joys and woes;</p> +<p>Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears,</p> +<p>And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears;</p> +<p>A period's come to all their toylsome lives</p> +<p>The good man's quiet; still are both his wives."</p> +</div></div> +</blockquote> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>BYGONE BEARDS</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/t.png" width="100" height="100" alt="T" title="T" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">he history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with +our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past +than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character. +We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where +Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a +little later he forbids the Israelites to "mar the corners" of it. +David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to +the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to +the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of +their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent +out to meet them, saying, "Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown, +and then return." To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a +mark of the deepest grief.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image4.png"> + <img src="images/image4-th.png" width="238" height="138" + alt="Bayeux Tapestry." + title="Bayeux Tapestry." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Bayeux Tapestry.<br /> + The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army, + is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.</p> +</div> + +<p>To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons +did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long, +and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his +progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to +obtain an idea as to the strength<a class="pagenum" name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a> of the enemy. On their return they +stated among other things that "the host did almost seem to be priests, +because they had all their face and both their lips shaven," a statement +borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux +tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the +broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had +been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the +conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair +long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped +and shaven masters.</p> + +<p>Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to +allow his beard<a class="pagenum" name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a> to grow, "in order," as he said, "to inspire the +greater respect among the faithful." A curious custom of the Middle Ages +was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of +the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another +instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations +comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of +England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern +monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented. +"Had my master measured wisdom by the beard," was the ready retort, "he +would have sent a goat."</p> + +<p>It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth +century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up +by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not +appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the +beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters +attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn +prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table, +unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was +before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to "poll their hair," +and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the +amount was graduated according to the condition of the<a class="pagenum" name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a> person wearing +this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the +Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of +Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another +paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next +reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She +sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number, +George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in +length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan +the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and +we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new +toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put +his beard aside, saying, "It hath done no treason." John Knox (born 1505 +and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so +largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the +length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and +after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the +worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name +of "the Apostle of Norwich." His beard was the largest and longest of +any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing +his beard of unusual size "that no act of his life might <a class="pagenum" name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>be unworthy of +the gravity of his appearance." He died at Norwich in 1592.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image5.png"> + <img src="images/image5-th.png" width="199" height="219" + alt="John Knox, born 1505, died 1572." + title="John Knox, born 1505, died 1572." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.</p> +</div> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image6.png"> + <img src="images/image6-th.png" width="77" height="85" + alt="John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654." + title="John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">John Taylor, the<br /> Water Poet, born<br /> 1580, died 1654.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to +add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above +a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken +seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature +for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's +reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and <a class="pagenum" name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>to cut +it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the +first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the +poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, "the Water Poet," are +among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show +considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of +his day. In his "Superbiæ Flagellum," he describes a great variety of +beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Now a few lines to paper I will put,</p> +<p>Of men's beards strange, and variable cut,</p> +<p>In which there's some that take as vain a pride</p> +<p>As almost in all other things beside;</p> +<p>Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush,</p> +<p>Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush;</p> +<p>And in my time of some men I have heard,</p> +<p>Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard;</p> +<p>Many of these the proverb well doth fit,</p> +<p>Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit:</p> +<p>Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine,</p> +<p>Like to the bristles of some angry swine;</p> +<p>And some to set their love's desire on edge,</p> +<p>Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge;</p> +<p>Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square,</p> +<p>Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare;</p> +<p>Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like,</p> +<p>That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike;</p> +<p>Some with the hammer cut, or roman T,</p> +<p>Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be;</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a> +<p>Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion,</p> +<p>Some circular, some oval in translation;</p> +<p>Some perpendicular in longitude;</p> +<p>Some like a thicket for their crassitude;</p> +<p>That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round,</p> +<p>And rules geometrical in Beards are found."</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image7.png"> + <img src="images/image7-th.png" width="267" height="400" + alt="Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through +York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor." + title="Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through +York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through +York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.</p> +</div> + +<p>Some curious lines appear in "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume," +edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society, +1849. The piece which is entitled "The Ballad of the Beard," is +reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled "Le Prince d'Amour," +1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not +earlier. "The varied form of the beard," says Fairholt, "which +characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on, +and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the +first half of the seventeenth century." Taylor, the Water Poet, has +alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have +so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a +curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J. A. Repton, F.S.A., on the +various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like "the Roman T," +mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut—Fig. 1—from +a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image8.png"> + <img src="images/image8-th.png" width="294" height="105" + alt="Beards in the Olden Time" + title="Beards in the Olden Time" /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Beards in the Olden Time</p> +</div> + +<p>The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward<a class="pagenum" name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a> Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The +needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or +spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book. +The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial +illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's +"Heraldry." He calls it "the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops, +and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards." "The beard +of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing +accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not +subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the +words of the song." We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in +fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin,</p> +<p class="i2">Doth dwell so near the tongue,</p> +<p>That her silence on the beard's defence</p> +<p class="i2">May do her neighbour wrong.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king,</p> +<p class="i2">Be his sceptres ne'er so fair:</p> +<p>Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey,</p> +<p class="i2">And are subject to a hair.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight,</p> +<p class="i2">That adorns both young and old;</p> +<p>A well thatcht face is a comely grace,</p> +<p class="i2">And a shelter from the cold.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>When the piercing north comes thundering forth,</p> +<p class="i2">Let barren face beware;</p> +<p>For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind,</p> +<p class="i2">To shave the face that's bare.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>But there's many a nice and strange device,</p> +<p class="i2">That doth the beard disgrace;</p> +<p>But he that is in such a foolish sin,</p> +<p class="i2">Is a traitor to his face.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>Now the beards there be of such a company,</p> +<p class="i2">And fashions such a throng,</p> +<p>That it is very hard to handle a beard,</p> +<p class="i2">Tho' it never be so long.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>The Roman T, in its bravery,</p> +<p class="i2">Doth first itself disclose,</p> +<p>But so high it turns, that oft it burns</p> +<p class="i2">With the flames of a too red nose.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared,</p> +<p class="i2">It is so sharp beneath,</p> +<p>For he that doth place a dagger in 's face,</p> +<p class="i2">What wears he in his sheath?</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich</p> +<p class="i2">The needle-beard to amend,</p> +<p>Which, without any wrong, I may call too long,</p> +<p class="i2">For man can see no end.</p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd</p> +<p class="i2">In figure like a spade,</p> +<p>With which he'll make his enemies quake,</p> +<p class="i2">And think their graves are made.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin,</p> +<p class="i2">Shall not my verse despise;</p> +<p>It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet</p> +<p class="i2">It grates poor prisoners' eyes.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>What doth invest a bishop's breast</p> +<p class="i2">But a milk-white spreading hair?</p> +<p>Which an emblem may be of integrity,</p> +<p class="i2">Which doth inhabit there.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry,</p> +<p class="i2">That grows about the chin,</p> +<p>With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side,</p> +<p class="i2">And a champion ground between.</p> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<p>Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush,</p> +<p class="i2">Which may be well endur'd."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great +artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole +of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject +that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we +are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that +with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Now of beards there be such company,</p> +<p class="i2">Of fashions such a throng,</p> +<p>That it is very hard to treat of the beard,</p> +<p class="i2">Tho' it be never so long."</p> +</div></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a><a class="pagenum" name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor +everywhere keeping down its growth.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image9.png"> + <img src="images/image9-th.png" width="400" height="264" + alt="The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published +immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605." + title="The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published +immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published +immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.</p> +</div> + +<p>Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called "Beardie." He was an +ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard +until the Stuarts were restored. "It would have been well," said the +novelist, "if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting +his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he +lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of +being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of +Buccleuch and Monmouth." Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to +Canto VI. of "Marmion":—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"With amber beard and flaxen hair,</p> +<p>And reverend apostolic air.</p> +<p>Small thought was his, in after time</p> +<p>E'er to be pitched into a rhyme.</p> +<p>The simple sire could only boast</p> +<p>That he was loyal to his cost;</p> +<p>The banish'd race of kings revered,</p> +<p>And lost his land—but kept his beard."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>He died in 1729 at Kelso. "Beardie's" second son, named Robert, was a +farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather.</p> + +<p>A contributor to <em>Notes and Queries</em>, for October 1st, 1859, gives the +following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to +Ireland:—"In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of +Shrewsbury, then Lord-<a class="pagenum" name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was +enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be +used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to +the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout +Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who +became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the +treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two +benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his +followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated +properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated +Hair-breadth estates." The effects of this statute became so alarming +that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found +it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This +agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred +years.</p> + +<p>The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their +beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth +chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from +remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran +tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. "When the Jew," says the +doctor, "who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the +great Spaniard was dead, he <a class="pagenum" name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>contrived to get into the room where the +body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously +plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was +plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and +starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the +Jew by mere fright which it caused." In Afghanistan "the system of +administering justice was such," says the "Life of Abdur Rahman" +(London, 1890) "that the humble were able to bring their claims before +the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's +beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of +his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the +Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed +into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard +from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It +was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was +no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to +leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being +pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the +fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that +in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum."</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be +touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief +will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining +volume "From Cyprus to Zanzibar" (London, 1901), tells some good stories +about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as +it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a +few years. "On one occasion," he says, "when I happened to be in the +bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all +the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their +shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause. +Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had +shaved off a priest's beard." The priest had been imprisoned for felling +a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in +force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and +beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The +authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox +Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High +Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in +future his hair and beard were to be left alone.</p> + +<p>Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as +follows.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>A familiar example is "To pull the devil by the beard." When Archbishop +Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, "If I should get +into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries +there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to +pull me by the beard." This insulting saying is by no means confined to +England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater +insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand +his beard, received the following answer:—</p> + +<p>"Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, y<sup>e</sup> whiche is y<sup>e</sup> +most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge. +Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit. +But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn +elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his +kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by y<sup>e</sup> feith of my body, for +this is y<sup>e</sup> most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I +have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I +wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne y<sup>e</sup> messager +departed." ("The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur," edit, by Caxton, +1485, reprinted 1817.)</p> + +<p>"To make any one's beard" is an old saying, which means "to cheat him," +or "to deceive <a class="pagenum" name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>him." We read in Chaucer's <em>Prologue to the Wife of +Bath</em> thus:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest:</p> +<p>Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the."</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image10.png"> + <img src="images/image10-th.png" width="202" height="226" + alt="Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400." + title="Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.</p> +</div> + +<p>And again, in the "Reve's Tale," the Miller said:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"I trow, the clerkes were aferde</p> +<p>Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde,</p> +<p>For all his art."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>A more familiar saying is "To beard a person," meaning to affront him, +or to set him at defiance.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a> Todd explains the allusion in a note in his +edition of Spenser's <em>Faerie Queene</em>—"did beard affront him to his +face"; so Shakespeare's <em>King Henry IV.</em>, Part I. Act i.: "I beard thee +to thy face"—Fr. "Faire la Barbe a quelqu'un." Ital. "Fa la barbe ad +uno" (Upton.)</p> + +<p>See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in <em>King Henry IV.</em>, +which is adopted, he says, "from romances, and originally signified to +'cut off the beard.'" Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly +indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs +attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to +Achilles, as translated by Chapman:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>—"and so tell thy strength how eminent</p> +<p>My power is, being compared with thine;</p> +<p class="i2">all other making feare</p> +<p>To vaunt equality with me, or in this</p> +<p class="i2">proud kind beare</p> +<p>Their beards against me."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>In Shirley's play, <em>A Contention for Honour and Riches</em>, 1633:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"You have worn a sword thus long to show y<sup>e</sup> hilt,</p> +<p>Now let the blade appear.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Courtier</span>.—Good Captain Voice,</p> +<p>It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet</p> +<p>No ague, I can look upon your buff,</p> +<p>And punto beard, and call for no strong waters."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>"It is difficult to ascertain," says Repton, "when the custom of pulling +the nose superseded <a class="pagenum" name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>that of pulling the beard, but most probably when +the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for +insult." In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of +Devonshire, paid £30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court. +An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's +<em>Epicæne, or the Silent Woman</em>, Act iv. sc. 5.</p> + +<p>In "Aubrey's Letters" is an allusion to wiping the beard. "Ralph Kettle, +D.D.," we read, "preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in +conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt +up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from +the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was +their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return +to wayte on their masters)." An old play by Lyly, entitled <em>Mother +Bombie</em> (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:—</p> + +<p>"Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a +handkerchief."</p> + +<p>Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little +book, "Some account of the Beard and Moustachio," of which one hundred +copies were printed for private circulation in 1839.</p> + +<p>The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard +to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's <em>Antonio and Melida</em>, +(1602), Act v., we read as follows:—</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>"<span class="smcap">Piero.</span>—Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry?</p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Rossaline.</span>—Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy, +forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long. +Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of +furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming +chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable."</p> + +<p>In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios. +We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking +beards. "There is no accounting," says Repton, "for the taste of ladies. +Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the +heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may +not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady +(<em>i.e.</em> the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have +a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the +fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's +beard is not recorded in the history of England." Many references find a +place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard.</p> + +<p>Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if +carefully performed. It is stated in the "Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas," +published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey +merchant, that he was <a class="pagenum" name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>very nice in the mode of that age, his valet +being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his +whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a +companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we +have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect +the beard from being disarranged.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>TAXING THE BEARD</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/b.png" width="100" height="100" alt="B" title="B" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">eards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the +same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for +nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement +of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given +up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the +prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore +either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred +roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A +peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to +one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave +rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it <a class="pagenum" name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>the utmost vigilance had +to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding +this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which +had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained +their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles +annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was +sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in +1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this +tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the +edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726.</p> + +<p>A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in +agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all +other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a +firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by +which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were +entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax +of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes.</p> + +<p>In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all +their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762, +intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some +stringent measures; but his <a class="pagenum" name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>sudden death prevented them from being put +into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings +in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed +every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks, +who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to +return, and assigned land to them for their settlement.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image11.png"> + <img src="images/image11-th.png" width="196" height="80" + alt="Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705." + title="Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Russian Beard Token, <abbr>A.D.</abbr> 1705.</p> +</div> + +<p>During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodoráia (the +bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these +tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth, +moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription "dinge +vsatia," which means "money received"; the reverse bears the year in +Russian characters (equivalent to "1705 year"), and the black eagle of +the empire.</p> + +<p>Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the +"Numismatic Chronicle," volume vii., 1845. He says that <a class="pagenum" name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>beard-tokens +are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin +probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served +their purpose for the year.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>POWDERING THE HAIR</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">n the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many +circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We +learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it +was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of +the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period +gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. "The hair of +Commodus," it is stated on the authority of Herodian, "glittered from +its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust +with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have +been thought that his head was on fire."</p> + +<p>It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons +used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon +pictures the beard and hair are often <a class="pagenum" name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>painted blue. Strutt supplies +interesting notes on the subject. "In some instances," he says, "which, +indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red +colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt +existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this +period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing +it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient +Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably +to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine."</p> + +<p>It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made +of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was +maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until +after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen +greatly increased the popularity of the practice.</p> + +<p>The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those +of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled +"Wit's Recreations," 1640, the following appears under the heading of +<em>Our Monsieur Powder-wig</em>:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet!</p> +<p>How like a pageant he doth walk the street!</p> +<p>See how his perfumed head is powdered ore;</p> +<p>'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before."</p> +</div></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>In "Musarum Deliciæ," 1655, we read:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p class="i2">"At the devill's shopps you buy</p> +<p class="i4">A dresse of powdered hayre,</p> +<p class="i2">On which your feathers flaunt and fly;</p> +<p class="i4">But i'de wish you have a care,</p> +<p>Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder,</p> +<p>Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared "The Impartial Monitor." +The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words: +"It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and +shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these +likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and +scorn them for it." A <em>Loyal Litany</em> against the Oliverians runs thus:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"From a king-killing saint,</p> +<p>Patch, powder, and paint,</p> +<p class="i2">Libera nos, Domine."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Massinger, in the "City Madam," printed in 1679, describing the dress of +a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Since your husband was knighted, as I said,</p> +<p>The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair</p> +<p>Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art,</p> +<p>Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds</p> +<p>And richest orient pearls."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>John Gay, in his poem, "Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of +London," published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>"Him like the Miller, pass with caution by,</p> +<p>Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>We learn from the "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons" some particulars +respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, "Mr John Brooks," +it is stated, "attended and produced a deed to which he requested the +subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of +Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a +duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and +of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no +perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of +alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents +excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder, +under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and £50, and that any person +who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and £20." Other +details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their +support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the +Bill through Parliament.</p> + +<p>A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the +<em>Gentleman's Magazine</em> particulars of some convictions for using powder +not made in accordance with the laws of the land. "On the 20th October, +1745," it is recorded, "fifty-one barbers were convicted before the +commissioners of excise, and fined in the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>penalty of £20, for having in +their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of +Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers +were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty."</p> + +<p>Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and +powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any +pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known +as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went +behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of +powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In +the <em>Rambler</em>, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that +his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about +with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat +uncocked.</p> + +<p>We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an +Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power, +and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a +guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet +much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a +considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as £200,000 a year. Fox, +with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious +fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition <a class="pagenum" name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>were +unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful +rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most +fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his "get up" +about 1770, drawn from the <em>Monthly Magazine</em>: "He had his chapeau-bas, +his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder." Later, when Pitt's tax +was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more +than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their +hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to +a number of Crop Clubs. The <em>Times</em> for April 14th, 1795, contains +particulars of one. "A numerous club," says the paragraph, "has been +formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his +entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of +Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for +the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads." +Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society. +The <em>Times</em> of April 25th, 1795, reports that: "The following noblemen +and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn +Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took +place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They +entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>them +wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many +noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the +example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the +ladies have left off wearing powder." Hair powder did not long continue +in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high +price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the +hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the +"Art of Dressing the Hair," 1770, the author complains:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Their hoarded grain contractors spare,</p> +<p>And starve the poor to beautify the hair."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced +£210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three +shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The +Whigs might taunt them by calling them "guinea-pigs," it mattered +little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves, +but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons +were exempt from paying the tax, including "the royal family and their +servants, the clergy with an income of under £100 per annum, subalterns, +non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers +enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two <a class="pagenum" name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>unmarried +daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder." +A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman, +etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly +engaged servants.</p> + +<p>Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with +consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her +desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was +made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is +much more likely that the artists painted the hair "full and flowing" +because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their +patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to +do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy, +and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people +discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use. +With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of +"The Antiquary:" "Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an +old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish, +which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the +operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided +his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>"'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'), +holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an +answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the +provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah, +sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane +by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's +time—and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi' +the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day, +Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted +their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as +they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on +his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise +against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons, +and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my +blocks.'" It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic. +"In the eighteenth century," says Mrs G. Linnæus Banks, author of the +"Manchester Man" and other popular novels, "he waited on his chief +customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to +powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes. +Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in +advance, and sent <a class="pagenum" name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a +barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered +top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a +rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least +a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupée +or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well +understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser +was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging +the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering +with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or +disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep +was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was +rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of +imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine +ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong +stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them."</p> + +<p>When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was +heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account +of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances +sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers +were fined sums from £64, 5s. to<a class="pagenum" name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a> £106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the +matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should +refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour. +King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household +to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to +be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as +was eaten by the servants.</p> + +<p>A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made +to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation +issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the +office of the Town Clerk:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"<span class="smcap">Disuse of Hair Powder</span>.</p> + +<p> "Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming + approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns + throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off + for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which + means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the + nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be + prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and + principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example + as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military + will not hesitate to <a class="pagenum" name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>adopt it, being fully convinced that + appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal, + and that in doing this they really do good.</p> + +<p> + "<span class="smcap">W. Taylor</span>, Mayor.<br /> +</p> + +<p> "January 27th, 1795."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House +of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked +a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time, +and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to +the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it +received the royal assent.</p> + +<p>We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull +was fined £10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having +<ins class="correction" title="Original used "been been"">been</ins> baked, agreeable to +Act of Parliament for that purpose.</p> + +<p>The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use +hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent +antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. "So late as +1820," says Dr Cox, "Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for +some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known +clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder, +and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous +revolutionist."<a class="pagenum" name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a> In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only +some 800 persons paid it, producing about £1000 per year.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE AGE OF WIGS</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/a.png" width="100" height="100" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">t the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of +fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone +times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear +in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and +style.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image12.png"> + <img src="images/image12-th.png" width="174" height="174" + alt="Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British +Museum." + title="Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British +Museum." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British +Museum.</p> +</div> + +<p>To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far +distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians +are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but +as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On +the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in +the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female, +and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in +Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the +head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from <a class="pagenum" name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>the rays +of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to +escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The +specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair +in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited +hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if +it had been hair growing on the head.</p> + +<p>Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is +recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians, +Carians, Greeks, and Romans. <em>Galerus</em>, a round cap, was the common name +among the Romans for a wig.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the +Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his +simple sister Gorgonia, said "she neither cared to curl her own hair, +nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig." St Jerome +pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter +received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly, +condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming +down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even +if worn as a joke. "There is no joke in the matter," said the enraged St +Bernard: "the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin." St John +Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be +mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion.</p> + +<p>Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its +authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing +wigs. "Prætexta," to use Doran's words, "was a very respectable lady, +married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece, +Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband, +Prætexta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress +and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the +modest maiden so attired, Prætexta went to bed. To that bedside +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows +of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit, +'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the +hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this +do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy +crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months +more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou +art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and +thy children shall die even before thee.'"</p> + +<p>Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and +the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so +runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at +church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind +that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to +the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them +to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing.</p> + +<p>History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present +investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated. +Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have +their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians +were keenly alive to their <a class="pagenum" name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>ridiculous appearance. The king's general +was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be +imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became +the pink of Lycian fashion.</p> + +<p>Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs, +one to improve, and the other to disguise his person.</p> + +<p>Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen, +but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of +the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into +this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not +often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest +payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and +is for twenty shillings "for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool." +Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs, +became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of +Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court +perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes. +In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Académie de France +des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their +heads. He tells us "the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums +spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of +wigs at Court, <a class="pagenum" name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>and tried to introduce a kind of cap." He lost the day, +for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went +out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and +some even cost £200 apiece.</p> + +<p>Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal +wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring +the fashion to Whitehall. "He forbade," we are told, "the members of the +Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons. +The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the +first two."</p> + +<p>Pepys' "Diary" contains much interesting information concerning wigs. +Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: "I heard the Duke say that +he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never +till this day observed that the King is mighty gray." It was perhaps the +change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume +the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned.</p> + +<p>As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted +the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with +Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his "Diary" to +one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, "I did try <a class="pagenum" name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>two or +three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no +stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He +trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my +first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also." +Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys +was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys, +and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at +Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his +"Diary," that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it; +but he said, "I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to +periwigs." Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: "Lord's day. +Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig, +bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in +Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in +fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare +to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the +heads of people dead of the plague."</p> + +<p>We learn from an entry in the "Diary" for June 11th, 1666, that ladies, +in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs. +"Walking in the galleries at Whitehall," observes Mr Pepys, "I find the +ladies of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets +with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their +doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for +long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them +for women in any point whatever." Pepys, we have seen, wondered if +periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he +was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and +its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore, +perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of +depression.</p> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image13.png"> + <img src="images/image13-th.png" width="150" height="187" + alt="The Earl of Albemarle." + title="The Earl of Albemarle." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">The Earl of Albemarle.</p> +</div> + +<p>In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable +example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of +Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig. +Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket +beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places, +combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies. +Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John +Hawkins, in his "History of Music," published in 1776, has an informing +note on combing customs. "On the Mall and in the theatre," he tells us, +"gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a +fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his +levée, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with +large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs, +while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb +has passed through them." Allusions to this practice may be found in the +plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We +read in Dryden's prologue to "Almanzor and Almahide":—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"But as when vizard mask appears in pit,</p> +<p>Straight every man who thinks himself a wit</p> +<p>Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace,</p> +<p>With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Says Congreve, in the "Way of the World":—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you."</p></blockquote> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image14.png"> + <img src="images/image14-th.png" width="131" height="300" + alt="Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (from a print of the +period)." + title="Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (from a print of the +period)." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Man with Wig and Muff, 1693<br /> (<em>from a print of the +period</em>).</p> +</div> + +<p>Thomas Brown, in his "Letters from the Dead to the Living," presents a +pen-portrait of <a class="pagenum" name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the +eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as +they contain valuable information concerning wigs. "We met," says the +writer, "three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle +made a most magnificent figure—his periwig was large enough to have +loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I +warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk, +that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the +bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left +arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his +cane, that hung <a class="pagenum" name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>negligently down in a string from his right arm, +trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it +was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself." About this +period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad, +describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84, +mentions amongst those present:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff."</p></blockquote> + +<div class="figright"> + <a href="images/image15.png"> + <img src="images/image15-th.png" width="78" height="110" + alt="Campaign Wig." + title="Campaign Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Campaign Wig.</p> +</div> + +<p>Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase +in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a +few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his "Academy of +Armory," published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we +will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called +the campaign-wig. He says it "hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each +side, with a curled forehead." This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we +have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig +with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail. +It was of various forms, and Swift says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"We who wear our wigs</p> +<p>With fantail and with snake."</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a class="pagenum" name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a> + <a href="images/image16.png"> + <img src="images/image16-th.png" width="90" height="76" + alt="Periwig with Tail." + title="Periwig with Tail." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Periwig with Tail.</p> +</div> + +<p>A third example given by Holme is named the "short-bob," and is a plain +peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. "Perukes," says Malcolm, in +his "Manners and Customs," "were an highly important article in 1734. +Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle +ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five +shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white, +fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray +bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of +dark bobs. Those mixed with horsehair were much lower. It will be +observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in +fashion, and dark of no estimation." As time ran its course, wigs became +more varied in form, and bore different names.</p> + +<div class="figright"> + <a href="images/image17.png"> + <img src="images/image17-th.png" width="57" height="129" + alt="Ramillie Wig." + title="Ramillie Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Ramillie Wig.</p> +</div> + +<p>We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black +riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the +long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough, +gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave +the title to a long wig described as "having a long, gradually +diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied +with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>bottom." It was +at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost +the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity +of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his "Henry +Esmond," as "a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great +periwig and red heels." Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the +French king: "Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he +increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its +similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was +never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his +practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his +curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it +to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great +Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous." It is stated in +Read's <em>Weekly Journal</em> of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of +the Prince of Wales, that "the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards +wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order." This wig survived until +the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms +of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, <a class="pagenum" name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>was +the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up +in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was +popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced +to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is +recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent, +the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying, +"Ichabod, for the glory was departed."</p> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image18.png"> + <img src="images/image18-th.png" width="100" height="117" + alt="Pig-tail Wig." + title="Pig-tail Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Pig-tail Wig.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and +that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome.</p> + +<div class="figright"> + <a href="images/image19.png"> + <img src="images/image19-th.png" width="113" height="135" + alt="Bag-Wig." + title="Bag-Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Bag-Wig.</p> +</div> + +<p>Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as +a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle +of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual +taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time. +In this example may be <a class="pagenum" name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the +frizziness over the forehead.</p> + +<p>We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait +of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of +Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication +of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land. +Farquhar, in a comedy called "Love and a Bottle," brought out in 1698, +says, "A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the +laurel."</p> + +<p>Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to +adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: "I can remember since the +wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first +magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did +either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and +if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would +point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal." Dr +Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons, +and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume, +in 1765, was issued under the title of "Free Advice to a Young +Clergyman," from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he +recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had +made his own hair respectable. Dr<a class="pagenum" name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a> Randolph, on his advancement to the +bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without +wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said, +"My lord, you must have a wig." Bishops wore wigs until the days of +William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to +set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the +marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in +his wig.</p> + +<p>Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period: +perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, "The Mock +Doctor," who exclaims, "I must have a physician's habit, for a physician +can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee." The wig +known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Physic of old her entry made</p> +<p>Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade;</p> +<p>While the gilt cane, with solemn pride</p> +<p>To each suspicious nose applied,</p> +<p>Seemed but a necessary prop</p> +<p>To bear the weight of wig at top."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song +which commenced:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"If you would see a noble wig,</p> +<p>And in that wig a man look big,</p> +<p>To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy,</p> +<p>And gaze on Dr Delmahoy."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>In the middle of the last century so much im<a class="pagenum" name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>portance was attached to +this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was +in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming: +"Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!"</p> + +<p>Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of +Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to +judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and +curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head +with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from +five to six guineas.</p> + +<p>An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge +Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. "I hear your voice," +sternly said his Lordship, "but I cannot see you." The barrister had to +obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would +listen to him.</p> + +<p>Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the +peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He +was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation. +In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old +judges did not wear them. "True," said the king; "the old judges wore +beards."</p> + +<p>In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both +bench and bar discard<a class="pagenum" name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>ing the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at +Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court, +and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next +day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their +professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous +day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the +mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded.</p> + +<p>We learn from a report in the <em>Times</em> of July 24th, 1868, that on +account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in +the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared +without wigs.</p> + +<p>On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case +for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission +to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat.</p> + +<p>Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at +the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did +were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition, +to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and +curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and +frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It +will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased +the beauty of a pretty face.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore +false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their +hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image20.png"> + <img src="images/image20-th.png" width="364" height="376" + alt="Heart-Breakers." + title="Heart-Breakers." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Heart-Breakers.</p> +</div> + +<p>It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not +merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in +England. From "The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart," it +appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it +to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being +false.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666. +Coming down to later times, we read in the <em>Whitehall Evening Post</em> of +August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards, +the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding habits, with +hats, and feathers, and periwigs."</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image21.png"> + <img src="images/image21-th.png" width="252" height="195" + alt="With and Without a Wig." + title="With and Without a Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">With and Without a Wig.</p> +</div> + +<p>It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that +its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of +Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings, +O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking +to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, "Take +off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier." The witty +Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd, +by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald +pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was +scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly +on O'Connell's side.</p> + +<p>An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year +1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public +ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand, +and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him, +he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may +be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his +attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the +wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it +may be added, was short of hair.</p> + +<p>Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth +century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. "Had I +lived in the reign of good Queen Anne," wrote Lord Lyttelton, "my baby +face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as +that which bedecks the head and shoulders of<a class="pagenum" name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a> Mr Justice Blackstone when +he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him." We learn +from Miss Agnes Strickland that "Marie Antoinette was the first person +who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures +of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue +jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs +and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been +points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence," she +says, when writing her history, "who can remember, at six years old, +joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte, +dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered +side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles."</p> + +<div class="figright"> + <a href="images/image22.png"> + <img src="images/image22-th.png" width="100" height="108" + alt="Lord Mansfield." + title="Lord Mansfield." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Lord Mansfield.</p> +</div> + +<p>It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed +wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord +Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who +had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but +he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield, +and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster +Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is +represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation, +which was fully reported in the <em>Times</em> for<a class="pagenum" name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a> 1823. An action, it is +stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to +recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the +possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig +had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the +legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told, +he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The +plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its +recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the +plaintiff the sum of £2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic.</p> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>STEALING WIGS</h2> + + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image23.png"> + <img src="images/image23-th.png" width="400" height="329" + alt="Stealing a Wig." + title="Stealing a Wig." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Stealing a Wig.</p> +</div> + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/i.png" width="100" height="100" alt="I" title="I" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">n the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English +gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden +time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were +not lost. Swift says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>"Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs,</p> +<p>Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs."</p> +</div></div> + +<p>Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are +told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes +a successful mode of operation: "A boy was carried covered over in a +butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by +the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an +accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence <a class="pagenum" name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>of assisting him +while the tray-bearer made off." Gay, in <em>Trivia</em>, thus writes:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p>"Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn:</p> +<p>High on the shoulders in a basket borne</p> +<p>Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred,</p> +<p>Plucks off the curling honours of thy head."</p> +</div></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/o.png" width="100" height="100" alt="O" title="O" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">n February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets +of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the +peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A +large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and +distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might +be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up +for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the +wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St +James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but +it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity.</p> + +<p>Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the +metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not <a class="pagenum" name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>fare +so well. "As the distressed men went processionally through the town," +says the account, "it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who +wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this +striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and +inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair +per force."</p> + +<p>Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters. +"Should we wonder," he writes, "if carpenters were to remonstrate that +since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?" The wags of the +period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to +provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published +purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to +wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal +presence with the same graceful decoration.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT</h2> + + +<div class="figleft"> +<img src="images/a.png" width="100" height="100" alt="A" title="A" /> +</div> +<p class="noindent">t the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to +realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a +century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a +fashion which has become general.<a class="pagenum" name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a> In the first year of the reign of +Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at +Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the +moustache. The following Report is drawn from the <em>Times</em> of September +21st, 1837: "Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said +he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad, +applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant, +under the following ludicrous circumstances.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for?</p> + +<p>"Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most +haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I +goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates +said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I. +'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look +like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a +fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit +half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot +sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to +have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they +weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and +stole my dinner out of the <a class="pagenum" name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want +your advice respecting my mustachios.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off +without loss of time.</p> + +<p>"Applicant: Can't part with a single hair.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose?</p> + +<p>"Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had +such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long +hair hanging from his lip?</p> + +<p>"Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes +me look like a man of some courage.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the +fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself? +It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with +mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin, +which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice, +I can't assist you.</p> + +<p>"Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip?</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you.</p> + +<p>"Applicant: No, they didn't.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: How's that?</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>"Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only +young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me.</p> + +<p>"Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You +may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not."</p> + +<p>"The man with the mustachios then withdrew."</p> + +<p>About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War +had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use +of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and +attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in +England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George +Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable +figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance, +with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th +July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache +movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the +representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in +the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on +Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was +remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>Three Colonels, in three distant counties born,</p> +<p>Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn.</p> +<p>The first in matchless impudence surpass'd,</p> +<p>The next in bigotry, in both the last,</p> +<p>The force of nature could no further go,</p> +<p>To beard the first she shaved the other two.</p> +</div></div> + +<p>It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated +tribute to Milton.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a href="images/image25.png"> + <img src="images/image25-th.png" width="250" height="400" + alt="George Frederick Muntz, M.P." + title="George Frederick Muntz, M.P." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">George Frederick Muntz, M.P.</p> +</div> + +<p>The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded +politician. It is <a class="pagenum" name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow +journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow +progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the +Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily +hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party +that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural +population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the +point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to +succumb, and that he was "determined to face it out."</p> + +<p>We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused +a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on +a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not +then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by +his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half +a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in +his "Backward Glances" (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain +Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the +well-known editor of the <em>Scotsman</em>, to Loch Long, when he saw some +carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. "Sitting +obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car," says the doctor, "was a portly +personage with <a class="pagenum" name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise +distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry +Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he +had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on +the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite +impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense +would never wear a moustache.'" We may gather from the foregoing the +prejudice of the period against facial adornments.</p> + +<p>From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of +Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a +moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, "Jew, Jew, +Jew," or "Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy," and, if that did not make any +impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten +laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of +a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial +artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding +town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he +was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from +the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many +follow his lead.</p> + +<p>A teacher of music was the first to wear a <a class="pagenum" name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>moustache in Nottingham. He +attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great +curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music +master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with +whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won +his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible +young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was +regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short +engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the +moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham.</p> + +<p>Mr W. P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing "Autobiography," and +devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to "The Bearded +Model." He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how +at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day +his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be +teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. "Why don't +you get your 'air cut?" said one. "Yah! where's your bundle of old +clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?" said another, +"Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?" and so on. +All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey +beard, then such a rarity. The <a class="pagenum" name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>young gentlemen had mistaken their man. +He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew. +How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present +studies.</p> + +<p>Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent +Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted +their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr +Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. "I +well remember," says Mr Frith, "a book illustrator named Stuart, who, +according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England +instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent +from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he +was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his +pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched +into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous +conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them +forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The +Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the +treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that +the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction +of his utterly unreliable character and <a class="pagenum" name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>general dishonesty in +consequence of his beard—one man going so far as to tell him it cost +him £200 a year—he refused to remove it." Mr Frith says when the +Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme +poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund +established to meet cases like his.</p> + +<p>The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache +movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England +issued an order "that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during +business hours." It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order +was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in +the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid +manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old +servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face +and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made +shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to +his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer +to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him +until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor.</p> + +<p>In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be +dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about +the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable +authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors +served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache. +On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use +of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example +he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the +adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught +cold, and in a few days died.</p> + +<div class="figleft"> + <a href="images/image26.png"> + <img src="images/image26-th.png" width="142" height="183" + alt="Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870." + title="Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870." /> + </a> + <p class="caption">Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.</p> +</div> + +<p>An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that +any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was +strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago.</p> + +<p>Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, "Bench +and Bar Reminis<a class="pagenum" name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>cences" (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of +our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and +certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the +face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of +the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister, +named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a +long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave +offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other +exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held, +and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action. +Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge +him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the +ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was +under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the +unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea, +a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the +Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. "This was," says +Mr Serjeant Robinson, "the worst that could befall him, for of course he +could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the +court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of +carrying out <a class="pagenum" name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did +not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared +afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had +been driven from practising his profession in the courts."</p> + +<p>Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the +reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should +appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth.</p> + +<p>Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the +present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the +martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the +Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the +military appearance of the citizen soldier.</p> + +<p>Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often +contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In +modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given +rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the +newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which +included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches +among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and +against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more +than one <a class="pagenum" name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>book dealing with the subject. An author issued "An Apology +for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in +particular" (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against +shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in +book form a "Defence of the Beard." He dealt with his subject on +scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow +a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good +taste. Mr. Ward asked, "What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who +would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?" The artist set an +example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the +title-page of another work was declared: "A Breach of the Sabbath, and a +Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel." The writer designated himself +"Theologos." If his views were carried out, it would lead to the +practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath +anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High +Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is +discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks +joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop +was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give +up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused +towards the close of 1892 <a class="pagenum" name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>when it became known that the Archbishop of +York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several +quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard +swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern +Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He +had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination, +but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final +effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not +time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing +so, and asked why he should. "Well," said the chaplain, "you see the +saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches." "That may +be so," said the candidate, "but as I am not intended to be a saint and +stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain."</p> + +<p>Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899, +Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph +in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it +out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. "After +a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next +paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the +curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has +joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of +His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I +felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper +and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in +London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the +reporters—I don't know which—in which he held up the Bishop of +Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded +their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the +contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have +thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their +moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but +a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply +with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had +of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this +newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard—I have not seen +it—that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of +Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry +after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example +of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the +most as<a class="pagenum" name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>tounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never +said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would +forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not +personal to myself and to many of those in this tent."</p> + +<p>A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. "The +vicar of an East London parish," said the bishop, "was one of the first +London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to +stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent +his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should +otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied +that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and +would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the +bishop retracted."</p> + +<p>We are told in the "Life of R. W. Dale" (London, 1898) that this famous +Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with "long black +hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane." In a year or two +it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some +hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were +scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in +protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers "with an air of +levity and worldliness." A letter of approval purported to <a class="pagenum" name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>come from +the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H. D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had +his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as +follows:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>"<span class="smcap">Reverend and Bearded Sir</span>,—It rejoiced my shade to see + you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the + identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that + unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the + 'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are."</p></blockquote> + +<p>Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of +the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. "John, John!" cried the +reverend sufferer, "it's a dreadful thing that drink!" "'Deed it is, +sir," mildly assented John, "it makes the skin unco tender."</p> + +<p>The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the +younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William +Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be +readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of +reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was +moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: "That +it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to +wear a beard and moustache if they think fit." A week later, namely, on +December 7th, at the Watch<a class="pagenum" name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a> Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and +seconded by Mr Fountain: "That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of +December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and +moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee." It was +pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the +passing of the resolution, that it would give a "fierce appearance to +the police."</p> + +<p>In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the +moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow +their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and +conditions of men.</p> + +<p>The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd +came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of +moustaches by his sons in the following terms: "In case my son Edward +shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper +Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his +appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall +wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called +Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said +son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns."</p> + +<p>Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by <a class="pagenum" name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>his will, proved in 1869, +left £10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and +to those who persisted in wearing them, £5 only.</p> + +<p>In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: "French +motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs +shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they +declare to be a sanitary protection."<a class="pagenum" name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a class="pagenum" name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>INDEX</h2> + +<div class="center"> + <table style="width:75%; text-align: center;" border="1" summary=""> + <tr> + <td><a href="#IX_A">A</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_B">B</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_C">C</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_D">D</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_E">E</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_F">F</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_G">G</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_H">H</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_I">I</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_J">J</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_K">K</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_L">L</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_M">M</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td><a href="#IX_N">N</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_O">O</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_P">P</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_Q">Q</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_R">R</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_S">S</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_T">T</a></td> + <td>U</td> + <td><a href="#IX_V">V</a></td> + <td><a href="#IX_W">W</a></td> + <td>X</td> + <td><a href="#IX_Y">Y</a></td> + <td>Z</td> + + </tr> + </table> +</div> + +<div class="index"> +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_A" id="IX_A"></a>Absalom, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Age of wigs, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>-<a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> + +<li>Agrarian law repealed, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li>Albemarle, Earl of, <a href="#Page_78">78</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Duchess of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li>Alfreton, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li>Anne, Queen, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + +<li>Assyrian sculptures, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + +<li>"<em>Antiquarian Repertory</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li>"<em>Athenian Oracle</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> + +<li>Aubrey, quoted, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_B" id="IX_B"></a>Bag-wig, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li>Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li>Ballad of the Beard, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>-<a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li>Banks, Mrs G. Linnæus, quoted, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> + +<li>Banks and the moustache, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + +<li>Bar and the moustache, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> + +<li>Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li>Barber's pole, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-<a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Barber's shop, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>-<a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li>Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, <a href="#Page_28">28</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>separate, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Barbers' Company, first Master of the, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li>Barnard Castle, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Barristers without wigs, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li>Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li>Bayeux tapestry, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li>Beard protection against neuralgia, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Beardie Scott, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li>Beardless Britons, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li>Bible, quoted, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li>Bleeding at Northallerton, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li>Blomfield, Bishop, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li>Boxing the beard, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li>Brand's "Popular Antiquities," <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li><em>British Apollo</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> + +<li>Britons, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li>Brontë, Rev. P., story about, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li>Bygone beards, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-<a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_C" id="IX_C"></a>Campaign wig, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + +<li>Canterbury, Sheriff of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li>Cavaliers, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> + +<li>Chair, barber's, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>II., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Charlotte, Queen, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li>Chaucer, quoted, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> + +<li>Chester barber-surgeons, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li>Church denounces wigs, <a href="#Page_73">73</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>denounces moustache, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Churchyards, barbers shave in, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li>Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>Cloth of gold, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li>Cockburn, Judge, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li>Combing the wig, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>Congreve, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>"<em>Comenii Orbis Pictus</em>," quoted, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li>Comenius, Bishop, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li>Contractors and the moustache, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> + +<li>Cox, Rev. Dr J. C., quoted, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li>Crimean War, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Crop clubs, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li>Curing a joking duke, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Cyprus customs, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_D" id="IX_D"></a>Dale, R. W., <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li>Defence of the beard, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li>Delmahoy's wig, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li>Demanding the beard, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li>Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li>Disuse of hair powder, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> + +<li>Doran, Dr, quoted, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> + +<li>Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> + +<li>Drury Lane, five women barbers of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li>Dryden, quoted, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>Duke and barber's boy, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Dyeing the beard, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_E" id="IX_E"></a>Earliest mention of the beard, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li>Early gild in London, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li>Eastern potentate, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li>Eden, Dr, and the moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> + +<li>Egyptian wigs, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li>Eldon, Lord, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> + +<li>Epigram on three colonels, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + +<li>Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_F" id="IX_F"></a>Fairholt, F. W., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li>False hair worn by women, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li>Farquhar, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> + +<li>Female follies, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li>Fined for wearing beards, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> + +<li>First illustrated school book, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> + +<li>Forfeits, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>-<a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li>Fox, C. J., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> + +<li>France, wig mania in, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Free advice to a young clergyman, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li>Frith, W. P., "Autobiography" quoted, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + +<li>From barber to surgeon, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>-<a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> + +<li>Frost fair, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_G" id="IX_G"></a>Gallants, gathering of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Galley-pot, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Garrick, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Gauls, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li>Gay, J., quoted, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + +<li><em>Gentleman's Magazine</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> + +<li>George III. and wig-makers, <a href="#Page_95">95</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>sets his subjects a good example, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>IV. and Dr Randolph, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Gold-dust used as hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li>Grain, high price of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li>Great seal, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li>Guitar, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_H" id="IX_H"></a>Hannibal, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Hastings, Battle of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> + +<li>Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> + +<li>Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>Heart-Breakers, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li>Henry VI., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li>Henry VIII., <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li>Hentzner, quoted, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>High Church clergymen, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li>Hodgson, Professor, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li>Holbein's picture, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li>Holme, R., quoted, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + +<li>House of Peers, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>How, Dr Walsham, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> + +<li>Hull baker fined, <a href="#Page_70">70</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>policemen and the moustache, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> +<li>timber merchant and the moustache, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_I" id="IX_I"></a>"Impartial Monitor," quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li>Incorporation of Barbers, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> + +<li>Irish Shaving Statute, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_J" id="IX_J"></a>Jewish custom, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> + +<li>Jews used hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li>Johnson, Dr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li>Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li>Julius II., <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> + +<li>Juvenile wigs, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_K" id="IX_K"></a>Kauffmann, A., <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li>Kenealy, Dr, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li>Kenrick, Dr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> + +<li>King's barber, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> + +<li>Knox, John, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_L" id="IX_L"></a>Last barber-surgeon in London, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li>Laud, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> + +<li>"Letters from the Dead to the Living," <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> + +<li>Lichfield, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> + +<li>Lincoln's Inn and the beard, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li>London women barbers, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li>Lord's Day observance, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li>Louis XIV., <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li>Louth, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Lowe, Rev. H. D., <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li>"Loyal Litany," quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li>Lyttelton, Lord, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_M" id="IX_M"></a>Macedonian soldiers, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> + +<li>Maclaren, C., editor of the <em>Scotsman</em>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li>Magistrate and the moustache, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li>Malcolm, quoted, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> + +<li>Manner of using hair powder, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> + +<li>Mansfield, Lord, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Marie Antoinette, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Marston, quoted, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li>Mary Queen of Scots, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>Massinger, quoted, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> + +<li>Medical men and wigs, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li>Ministers shaving on Sunday, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li>Missal, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Mock doctor, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li>More, Rev. J., <a href="#Page_36">36</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Moustache and the motor-car, <a href="#Page_115">115</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>movement, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>-<a href="#Page_115">115</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Muffs, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> + +<li>Muntz, G. F., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Music, barber's, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_N" id="IX_N"></a>Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a><em>Notes and Queries</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> + +<li>Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_O" id="IX_O"></a>Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li>O'Connell, D., <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li>One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_P" id="IX_P"></a>Paris, massacre of, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Pepys, quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> + +<li>Percival, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Periwig with tail, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> + +<li>Peter the Great, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> + +<li>Phlebotomy, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>-<a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Pig-tail, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li>Pitt, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li>Plucking the beard, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> + +<li>Poetical signs, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Politics and the moustache, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> + +<li>Pontefract, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> + +<li>Powdering the hair, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>-<a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> + +<li>Pulling the nose, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> + +<li>Puritans, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_Q" id="IX_Q"></a>"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_R" id="IX_R"></a>"Rambler," quoted, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> + +<li>Ramillies, Battle of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>wig, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Reading regulations, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Red rag, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Reform Bill, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li>Repton, J. A., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li>Retailer of scandal, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li>Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> + +<li>Rogers, Dr C., quoted, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> + +<li>Romans and hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li>Russian laws, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-<a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li>Ryle, Bishop, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_S" id="IX_S"></a>Sandy-coloured hair, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li>Saxons and hair-powder, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> + +<li>Sayings, old, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>-<a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> + +<li>Saywell, Rev. J. L., quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li>Scarborough, woman barber at, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> + +<li>Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> + +<li>Sealing custom, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> + +<li>Shakespeare, quoted, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li>Shaving heads, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> + +<li>Sheppard, Mr, M.P., <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> + +<li>Shirley, quoted, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> + +<li>Short-bob, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> + +<li>Sibthorp, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Speaker's wig, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> + +<li>Starching the beard, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> + +<li>Stealing wigs, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>-<a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> + +<li>Stephen, King, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Stow, quoted, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Stratford-on-Avon, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Street frays, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Strickland, Agnes, quoted, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Strutt, quoted, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li>Stuart, artist, story of, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li>Stubbes, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> + +<li>Stupid barbers unknown, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Sumner, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> + +<li>Sunday shaving, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>-<a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> + +<li>Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Swift, quoted, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>-<a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_T" id="IX_T"></a>Taxing hair-powder, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>the beard, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>-<a href="#Page_59">59</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Taylor the Water Poet, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum" name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li>"Thirsk Forfeits," <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> + +<li>Thurlow, Lord, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Tichborne trial, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> + +<li>Tiles, fine of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Tillotson, Dr, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> + +<li>Timbs, John, quoted, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> + +<li><em>Times</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> + +<li>Token, beard, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> + +<li>Tours, Edict of, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> + +<li>Tragic story, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_V" id="IX_V"></a>Verner, Col., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> + +<li>Vizetelly, quoted, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_W" id="IX_W"></a>Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> + +<li>Walpole, Horace, quoted, <a href="#Page_96">96</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Ward, James, quoted, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> + +<li>Wesleyans and the beard, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> + +<li><em>Whitehall Evening Post</em>, quoted, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li>Wig-makers' riot, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> + +<li>Williams, noted barber, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Wills and the moustache, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> + +<li>With and without wigs, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> + +<li>"Wits' Recreations," quoted, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> + +<li>Women barbers, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>-<a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Working hours, long, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> + +<li>Workshop and Sunday shaving, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> +</ul> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a name="IX_Y" id="IX_Y"></a>Yarmouth, curious bill at, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> + +<li>York, Archbishop of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Gild of Barber-Surgeons, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by +William Andrews + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + +***** This file should be named 19925-h.htm or 19925-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/9/2/19925/ + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: At the Sign of the Barber's Pole + Studies In Hirsute History + +Author: William Andrews + +Release Date: November 27, 2006 [EBook #19925] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + + + + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. +Wigs in Parliament.] + + + + + AT THE SIGN + OF THE BARBER'S POLE + + STUDIES IN HIRSUTE HISTORY + + + BY + WILLIAM ANDREWS + + AUTHOR OF "BYGONE ENGLAND" + ETC. + + + + + COTTINGHAM, YORKSHIRE + J.R. TUTIN + 1904 + + + + +PREFACE + + +Connected with the barber and his calling are many curiosities of +history. In the following pages, an attempt has been made, and I trust +not without success, to bring together notices of the more interesting +matters that gather round the man and his trade. + +In the compilation of this little book many works have been consulted, +and among those which have yielded me the most information must be +mentioned the following:-- + + "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons of London," by Sidney Young, London, + 1890. + + "An Apology for the Beard," by Artium Magister, London, 1862. + + "Barbers' Company," by G. Lambert, F.S.A., London, 1881. + + "Barber-Surgeons and Chandlers," by D. Embleton, M.D., + Newcastle-on-Tyne, 1891. + + "Barber's Shop," by R.W. Proctor, edited by W.E.A. Axon, + Manchester, 1883. + + "Philosophy of Beards," by T.S. Cowing, Ipswich. + + "Some Account of the Beard and the Moustachio," by John Adey + Repton, F.S.A., London, 1839. + + "Why Shave?" by H.M., London. + +_Notes and Queries_, and other periodicals, as well as encyclopaedias, +books on costume, and old plays, have been drawn upon, and numerous +friends have supplied me with information. I must specially mention with +gratitude Mr Everard Home Coleman, the well-known contributor to _Notes +and Queries_. + +Some of my chapters have been previously published in the magazines, but +all have been carefully revised and additions have been made to them. + +In conclusion, I hope this work will prove a welcome contribution to the +byways of history. + + + WILLIAM ANDREWS. + + ROYAL INSTITUTION, HULL, + _August 11th_, 1904. + + + + +CONTENTS + + PAGE +THE BARBER'S POLE 1 + +THE BARBER'S SHOP 8 + +SUNDAY SHAVING 21 + +FROM BARBER TO SURGEON 26 + +BYGONE BEARDS 33 + +TAXING THE BEARD 56 + +POWDERING THE HAIR 59 + +THE AGE OF WIGS 71 + +STEALING WIGS 93 + +THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT 95 + +THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT 96 + +INDEX 117 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + PAGE +The House of Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole. + Wigs in Parliament _Frontispiece_ + +The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus" 3 + +A Barber's Shop in the time of Queen Elizabeth 10 + +William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait) 15 + +Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons 29 + +Bayeux Tapestry 34 + +John Knox, born 1505, died 1572 37 + +John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654 38 + +The Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret + through York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord + Mayor 39 + +Beards in the Olden Time 42 + +The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published + immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in + Fashion in 1605 45 + +Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400 52 + +Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705 58 + +Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British + Museum 72 + +The Earl of Albemarle 78 + +Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the period_) 80 + +Campaign Wig 81 + +Periwig with Tail 82 + +Ramillie Wig 83 + +Pig-tail Wig 84 + +Bag-Wig 84 + +Heart-Breakers 89 + +With and Without a Wig 90 + +Lord Mansfield 93 + +Stealing a Wig 94 + +George Frederick Muntz, M.P. 100 + +Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870 106 + + + + +THE BARBER'S POLE + + +In most instances the old signs which indicated the callings of +shopkeepers have been swept away. Indeed, the three brass balls of the +pawn-broker and the pole of the barber are all that are left of signs of +the olden time. Round the barber's pole gather much curious fact and +fiction. So many suggestions have been put forth as to its origin and +meaning that the student of history is puzzled to give a correct +solution. One circumstance is clear: its origin goes back to far distant +times. An attempt is made in "The Athenian Oracle" (i. 334), to trace +the remote origin of the pole. "The barber's art," says the book, "was +so beneficial to the publick, that he who first brought it up in Rome +had, as authors relate, a statue erected to his memory. In England they +were in some sort the surgeons of old times, into whose art those +beautiful leeches, [Footnote: This is the old word for doctors or +surgeons.] our fair virgins, were also accustomed to be initiated. In +cities and corporate towns they still retain their name +Barber-Chirurgeons. They therefore used to hang their basons out upon +poles to make known at a distance to the weary and wounded traveller +where all might have recourse. They used poles, as some inns still +gibbet their signs, across a town." It is a doubtful solution of the +origin of the barber's sign. + +[Illustration: The Barber's Shop, from "Orbis Pictus."] + +A more satisfactory explanation is given in the "Antiquarian Repertory." +"The barber's pole," it is there stated, "has been the subject of many +conjectures, some conceiving it to have originated from the word poll or +head, with several other conceits far-fetched and as unmeaning; but the +true intention of the party coloured staff was to show that the master +of the shop practised surgery and could breathe a vein as well as mow a +beard: such a staff being to this day by every village practitioner put +in the hand of the patient undergoing the operation of phlebotomy. The +white band, which encompasses the staff, was meant to represent the +fillet thus elegantly twined about it." We reproduce a page from +"Comenii Orbis Pictus," perhaps better known under its English title of +the "Visible World." It is said to have been the first illustrated +school-book printed, and was published in 1658. Comenius was born in +1592, was a Moravian bishop, a famous educational reformer, and the +writer of many works, including the "Visible World: or a Nomenclature, +and Pictures of all the chief things that are in the World, and of Men's +Employments therein; in above an 150 Copper Cuts." Under each picture +are explanatory sentences in two columns, one in Latin, and the other in +English, and by this means the pupil in addition to learning Latin, was +able to gain much useful knowledge respecting industries and other +"chief things that are in the World." For a century this was the most +popular text-book in Europe, and was translated into not fewer than +fourteen languages. It has been described as a crude effort to interest +the young, and it was more like an illustrated dictionary than a child's +reading-book. In the picture of the interior of a barber's shop, a +patient is undergoing the operation of phlebotomy (figure 11). He holds +in his hand a pole or staff having a bandage twisted round it. It is +stated in Brand's "Popular Antiquities" that an illustration in a missal +of the time of Edward the First represents this ancient practice. + +In a speech made in the House of Peers by Lord Thurlow, in support of +postponing the further reading of the Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, from +July 17th, 1797, to that day three months, the noble lord said that by a +statute still in force, the barbers and surgeons were each to use a +pole. The barbers were to have theirs blue and white, striped, with no +other appendage; but the surgeon's pole, which was the same in other +respects, was likewise to have a galley-pot and a red rag, to denote the +particular nature of their vocation. + +A question is put in the _British Apollo_ (London, 1708):-- + + "... Why a barber at port-hole + Puts forth a party-coloured pole?" + +This is the answer given:-- + + "In ancient Rome, when men lov'd fighting, + And wounds and scars took much delight in, + Man-menders then had noble pay, + Which we call surgeons to this day. + 'Twas order'd that a hughe long pole, + With bason deck'd should grace the hole, + To guide the wounded, who unlopt + Could walk, on stumps the others hopt; + But, when they ended all their wars, + And men grew out of love with scars, + Their trade decaying; to keep swimming + They joyn'd the other trade of trimming, + And on their poles to publish either, + Thus twisted both their trades together." + +During his residence at his living in the county of Meath, before he was +advanced to the deanery of St Patrick's, Dean Swift was daily shaved by +the village barber, who gained his esteem. The barber one morning, when +busy lathering Swift, said he had a great favour to ask his reverence, +adding that at the suggestion of his neighbours he had taken a small +public-house at the corner of the churchyard. He hoped that with the two +businesses he might make a better living for his family. + +"Indeed," said the future Dean, "and what can I do to promote the happy +union?" + +"And please you," said the barber, "some of our customers have heard +much about your reverence's poetry; so that, if you would but condescend +to give me a smart little touch in that way to clap under my sign, it +might be the making of me and mine for ever." + +"But what do you intend for your sign?" inquired the cleric. + +"The 'Jolly Barber,' if it please your reverence, with a razor in one +hand and a full pot in the other." + +"Well," rejoined Swift, "in that case there can be no great difficulty +in supplying you with a suitable inscription." Taking up a pen he +instantly wrote the following couplet, which was duly painted on the +sign and remained there for many years:-- + + "Rove not from pole to pole, but step in here, + Where nought excels the shaving but--the beer." + +Another barber headed his advertisement with a parody on a couplet from +Goldsmith as follows:-- + + "Man wants but little beard below, + Nor wants that little long." + +A witty Parisian hairdresser on one of the Boulevards put up a sign +having on it a portrait of Absalom dangling by his hair from a tree, and +Joab piercing his body with a spear. Under the painting was the +following terse epigram:-- + + "Passans, contemplez le malheur + D'Absalom pendu par la nuque; + Il aurait evite ce malheur, + S'il eut porte une perruque." + +The lines lose some of their piquancy when rendered into English as +follows:-- + + "The wretched Absalom behold, + Suspended by his flowing hair: + He might have 'scaped this hapless fate + Had he chosen a wig to wear." + + + + +THE BARBER'S SHOP + + +The old-fashioned barber has passed away. In years agone he was a +notable tradesman, and was a many-sided man of business, for he shaved, +cut hair, made wigs, bled, dressed wounds, and performed other offices. +When the daily papers were not in the hands of the people he retailed +the current news, and usually managed to scent the latest scandal, which +he was not slow to make known--in confidence, and in an undertone, of +course. He was an intelligent fellow, with wit as keen as his razor; +urbane, and having the best of tempers. It has been truthfully said of +this old-time tradesman that one might travel from pole to pole and +never encounter an ill-natured or stupid barber. + +Long days are usually worked in the barber's shop, and many attempts +have been made to reduce the hours of labour. We must not forget that +compulsory early closing is by no means a new cry, as witness the +following edict, issued in the reign of Henry VI., by the Reading +Corporation: "Ordered that no barber open his shop to shave any man +after 10 o'clock at night from Easter to Michaelmas, or 9 o'clock from +Michaelmas to Easter, except it be any stranger or any worthy man of the +town that hath need: whoever doeth to the contrary to pay one thousand +tiles to the Guildhall." + +[Illustration: A Barber's Shop in the Time of Queen Elizabeth.] + +In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the rich families from the country +thought it no disgrace in that simple age to lodge in Fleet Street, or +take rooms above some barber's shop. At this period, indeed, the +barber-surgeon was a man of considerable importance. His shop was the +gathering-place of idle gallants, who came to have their sword-wounds +dressed after street frays. The gittern, or guitar, lay on the counter, +and this was played by a customer to pass away the time until his turn +came to have his hair trimmed, his beard starched, his mustachios +curled, and his love-locks tied up. We give a picture of a barber's shop +at this period; the place appears more like a museum than an +establishment for conducting business. We get a word picture of a +barber's shop in Greene's "Quip for an Upstart Courtier," published in +1592. It is related that the courtier sat down in the throne of a chair, +and the barber, after saluting him with a low bow, would thus address +him: "Sir, will you have your worship's hair cut after the Italian +manner, short and round, and then frounst with the curling irons to make +it look like a half-moon in a mist; or like a Spaniard, long at the ears +and curled like to the two ends of an old cast periwig; or will you be +Frenchified with a love-lock down to your shoulders, whereon you may +wear your mistress's favour? The English cut is base, and gentlemen +scorn it; novelty is dainty. Speak the word, sir, my scissors are ready +to execute your worship's will." A couple of hours were spent in combing +and dressing the ambrosial locks of the young Apollo; then the barber's +basin was washed with camphor soap. At last the beard is reached, and +with another congee the barber asks if his worship would wish it to be +shaven; "whether he would have his peak cut short and sharp, and amiable +like an inamorato, or broad pendent like a spade, to be amorous as a +lover or terrible as a warrior and soldado; whether he will have his +crates cut low like a juniper bush, or his subercles taken away with a +razor; if it be his pleasure to have his appendices primed, or his +moustachios fostered to turn about his ears like vine tendrils, fierce +and curling, or cut down to the lip with the Italian lash?--and with +every question a snip of the scissors and a bow." If a poor man entered +the shop he was polled for twopence, and was soon trimmed around like a +cheese, and dismissed with scarce a "God speed you." + +The Puritans looked askance at the fashions introduced by the barbers. +No wonder when the talk in the shop was about the French cut, the +Spanish cut, the Dutch and the Italian mode; the bravado fashion, and +the mean style. In addition to these were the gentleman's cut, the +common cut, the Court cut, and county cut. "And," wrote Stubbes with +indignation, "they have other kinds of cuts innumerable, and, therefore, +when you come to be trimmed they will ask you whether you will be cut to +look terrible to your enemy, or amiable to your friend; grim and stern +in countenance, or pleasant and demure; for they have diverse kinds of +cuts for all these purposes, or else they lie! Then when they have done +all their feats, it is a world to consider how their mowchatows must be +preserved and laid out from one cheek to another; yea, almost from one +ear to another, and turned up like two horns towards the forehead. +Besides that, when they come to the cutting of the hair, what tricking +and trimming, what rubbing, what scratching, what combing and clawing, +what trickling and toying, and all to tawe out money, you may be sure. +And when they come to washing--oh, how gingerly they behave themselves +therein! For then shall your mouth be bossed with the lather or foam +that riseth of the balls (for they have their sweet balls wherewith they +use to wash), your eyes closed must be anointed therewith also. Then +snap go the fingers full bravely, God wot. Thus this tragedy ended, +comes the warm clothes to wipe and dry him withall; next the ears must +be picked, and closed together again, artificially, forsooth! The hair +of the nostrils cut away, and everything done in order, comely to +behold. The last action in the tragedy is the payment of money; and lest +these cunning barbers might seem unconscionable in asking much for their +pains, they are of such a shameful modesty as they will ask nothing at +all, but, standing to the courtesy and liberality of the giver, they +will receive all that comes, how much soever it be, not giving any +again, I warrant you; for take a barber with that fault, and strike off +his head. No, no; such fellows are rarae aves in terris, nigrisque +simillimae cygnis--rare birds on the earth, and as scarce as black swans. +You shall have also your fragrant waters for your face, wherewith you +shall be all besprinkled; your musick again, and pleasant harmony shall +sound in your ears, and all to tickle the same with rare delight, and in +the end your cloak shall be brushed, and 'God be with you, gentlemen!'" + +John Gay issued in 1727 the first series of his "Fables," and in the one +entitled "The Goat Without a Beard" we get a description of the barber's +shop of the period:-- + + "His pole, with pewter basins hung, + Black, rotten teeth in order strung, + Rang'd cups that in the window stood, + Lin'd with red rags, to look like blood, + Did well his threefold trade explain, + Who shav'd, drew teeth, and breath'd a vein." + +The wooden chair is next referred to, and then it is stated:-- + + "Mouth, nose, and cheeks, the lather hides: + Light, smooth, and swift, the razor glides." + +Old barbers' shops had their regulations in poetry and prose. Forfeits +used to be enforced for breaches of conduct as laid down in laws which +were exhibited in a conspicuous manner, and might be read while the +customer was awaiting his turn for attention at the hands of the knight +of the razor. Forfeits had to be paid for such offences as the +following:-- + + For handling the razors, + For talking of cutting throats, + For calling hair-powder flour, + For meddling with anything on the shop-board. + +Shakespeare alludes to this custom in "Measure for Measure," Act v. sc. +1, as follows:-- + + "The strong statutes + Stand like the forfeits in a barber's shop, + As much in mock as mark." + +[Illustration: William Shakespeare (the Stratford Portrait).] + +Half a century ago there was hanging a code of laws in a barber's shop +in Stratford-on-Avon, which the possessor mounted when he was an +apprentice some fifty years previously. His master was in business as a +barber at the time of the Garrick Jubilee in 1769, and he asserted that +the list of forfeits was generally acknowledged by all the fraternity to +have been in use for centuries. The following lines have found their +way into several works, including Ingledew's "Ballads and Songs of +Yorkshire" (1860). In some collections the lines are headed "Rules for +Seemly Behaviour," and in others "The Barber of Thirsk's Forfeits." We +draw upon Dr Ingledew for the following version, which is the best we +have seen:-- + + "First come, first served--then come not late, + And when arrived keep your sate; + For he who from these rules shall swerve + Shall pay his forfeit--so observe. + + "Who enters here with boots and spurs + Must keep his nook, for if he stirs + And gives with arm'd heel a kick, + A pint he pays for every prick. + + "Who rudely takes another's turn + By forfeit glass--may manners learn; + Who reverentless shall swear or curse + Must beg seven ha'pence from his purse. + + "Who checks the barber in his tale, + Shall pay for that a gill of yale; + Who will or cannot miss his hat + Whilst trimming pays a pint for that. + + "And he who can but will not pay + Shall hence be sent half-trimmed away; + For will he--nill he--if in fault, + He forfeit must in meal or malt. + + "But mark, the man who is in drink + Must the cannikin, oh, never, never clink." + +The foregoing table of forfeits was published by Dr Kenrick in his +review of Dr Johnson's edition of Shakespeare in 1765, and it was stated +that he had read them many years before in a Yorkshire town. This matter +has been discussed at some length in _Notes and Queries_, and it is +asserted that the foregoing is a forgery. Some interesting comments on +the controversy appeared in the issue of March 20th, 1869. + +Women barbers in the olden time were by no means uncommon in this +country, and numerous accounts are given of the skilful manner they +handled the razor. When railways were unknown and travellers went by +stage-coach it took a considerable time to get from one important town +to another, and shaving operations were often performed during the +journey, and were usually done by women. In the byways of history we +meet with allusions to "the five women barbers who lived in Drury-lane," +who are said to have shamefully maltreated a woman in the days of +Charles II. According to Aubrey, the Duchess of Albemarle was one of +them. + +At the commencement of the nineteenth century a street near the Strand +was the haunt of black women who shaved with ease and dexterity. In St +Giles'-in-the-Fields was another female shaver, and yet another woman +wielder of the razor is mentioned in the "Topography of London," by J.T. +Smith. "On one occasion," writes Smith, "that I might indulge the humour +of being shaved by a woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, where in +Great St Andrew's Street a female performed the operations, whilst her +husband, a strapping soldier in the Horse Guards, sat smoking his pipe." +He mentions another woman barber in Swallow Street. + +Two men from Hull some time ago went by an early morning trip to +Scarborough, and getting up rather late the use of the razor was +postponed until they arrived at the watering-place. Shortly after +leaving the station they entered a barber's shop. A woman lathered their +faces, which operation, although skilfully performed, caused surprise +and gave rise to laughter. They fully expected a man would soon appear +to complete the work, but they were mistaken. The female took a piece of +brown paper from a shelf, and with this she held with her left hand the +customer's nose, and in an artistic manner shaved him with her right +hand. Some amusement was experienced, but the operation was finished +without an accident. The gentlemen often told the story of their shave +at Scarborough by a woman barber. + +At Barnard Castle a wife frequently shaved the customers at the shop +kept by her husband, who was often drunk and incapable of doing his +work. Louth (Lincolnshire) boasted a female barber, who is said to have +shaved lightly and neatly, and much better than most men. + +Many stories, which are more or less true, are related respecting +barbers. The following is said to be authentic, and we give it as +related to us. The Duke of C---- upon one occasion entered a small +barber's shop in Barnard Castle, and upon inquiring for the master was +answered by an apprentice of fourteen that he was not at home. "Can you +shave, then?" asked the duke. "Yes, sir, I always do," was the reply. +"But can you shave without cutting?" "Yes, sir, I'll try," answered the +youth. "Very well," said the duke, while seating himself, and loading +his pistol; "but look here, if you let any blood, as true as I sit here +I'll blow your brains out! Now consider well before you begin." After a +moment's reflection, the boy began to make ready, and said, "I'm not +afraid of cutting you, sir," and in a short time had completed the feat +without a scratch, to the complete satisfaction of the duke. In gentle +tones his grace asked, "Were you not afraid of having your brains blown +out, when you might have cut me so easily?" + +"No, sir, not at all; because I thought that as soon as I should happen +to let any blood, before you could have time to fire I would cut your +throat." + +The smart reply won from the duke a handsome reward. It need scarcely to +be added he never resumed his dangerous threats in a barber's shop. A +lesson was taught him for life. + +The barber of an English king boasted, says a story, that he must be the +most loyal man in the realm, as he had every day the regal throat at his +mercy. The king was startled at the observation, and concluded that the +barbarous idea could never have entered an honest head, and for the +future he resolved to grow a beard as a precautionary measure against +summary execution. + +With a barber's shop in Lichfield is associated an amusing story, in +which the chief figure was Farquhar, a dramatist, who attained a measure +of success in the eighteenth century. His manner was somewhat pompous, +and he resented with a great show of indignation the dalliance of the +master of the shop. Whilst he was fuming, a little deformed man came up +to him and performed the operation satisfactorily. The same day Farquhar +was dining at the table of Sir Theophilus Biddulph, when he noticed the +dwarf there. Taking the opportunity of following his host out of the +room, he asked for an explanation of his conduct, and said that he +deemed it an insult to be seated in such inferior company. Amazed at the +charge, Sir Theophilus assured the dramatist that every one of the +guests was a gentleman, and that they were his particular friends. +Farquhar was not satisfied. "I am certain," he said, "that the little +humpbacked man who sat opposite me is a barber who shaved me this +morning." The host returned to the room and related the story which he +had just heard. "Ay, yes," replied the guest, who was a well-born +gentleman, "I can make the matter clear. It was I who was in the +barber's shop this morning, and as Farquhar seemed in such a hurry, and +the barber was out, I shaved him." + +The works of the old dramatists and other publications contain allusions +to barbers' music. It was the practice, as we have said, when a +customer was waiting for his turn in a barber's shop to pass his time +playing on the gittern. Dekker mentions a "barber's cittern for every +serving-man to play upon." Writing in 1583, Stubbes alludes to music at +the barber's shop. In the "Diary of Samuel Pepys" we read: "After supper +my Lord called for the lieutenant's cittern, and with two candlesticks +with money in them for symballs, we made barber's music, with which my +lord was well pleased." "My Lord was easily satisfied," says a +well-known contributor to _Punch_, "and in our day would probably have +enjoyed 'the horgans.'" We may rest assured that barber's music was of +questionable melody. + + + + +SUNDAY SHAVING + + +In bygone England, the churchyard was a common place for holding fairs +and the vending of merchandise, and it was also customary for barbers to +shave their customers there. In 1422, by a particular prohibition of +Richard Flemmyng, Bishop of Lincoln, the observance of the custom was +restrained. + +The regulations of the Gild of Barber-Surgeons of York deal with Lord's +Day observance. In 1592 a rule was made, ordering, under a fine of ten +shillings, "that none of the barbers shall work or keep open their shop +on Sunday, except two Sundays next or before the assize weeks." Another +law on the question was made in 1676 as follows:--"This court, taking +notice of several irregular and unreasonable practices committed by the +Company of Barber-Surgeons within this city in shaving, trimming, and +cutting of several strangers' as well as citizens' hair and faces on the +Lord's Day, which ought to be kept sacred, it is ordered by the whole +consent of this court, and if any brother of the said Company shall at +any time hereafter either by himself, servant, or substitute, tonse, +barb, or trim any person on the Lord's Day, in any Inn or other public +or private house or place, or shall go in or out of any such house or +place on the said day with instruments used for that purpose, albeit the +same cannot be positively proved, or made appear, but in case the Lord +Mayor for the time being shall upon good circumstances consider and +adjudge any such brother to have trimmed or barbed as is aforesaid, that +then any such offender shall forfeit and pay for every such offence +10s., one half to the Lord Mayor, and the other to the use of the said +Company, unless such brother shall voluntarily purge himself by oath to +the contrary; and the searchers of the said Company for the time being +are to make diligent search in all such as aforesaid public or private +places for discovery of such offenders." + +The following abstract of an order of the Barber-Surgeons of Chester +shows that the members of the Company were strict Sabbatarians:-- + +"1680, seconde of July, ordered that no member of the Company or his +servant or apprentice shall trim any person on the Lord's Day commonly +called Sunday." + +In the Corporation records of Pontefract under the year 1700 it is +stated: "Whereas divers complaints have been made that the barbers of +the said borough do frequently and openly use and exercise their +respective trades upon the Lord's Day in profanation thereof, and to the +high displeasure of Almighty God. To prevent such evil practices for the +future it is therefore ordered that no barber shall ... use or exercise +the trade of a barber within the borough of Pontefract upon the Lord's +Day, commonly called Sunday, nor shall trim or shave any person upon +that day, either publicly or privately." We have in the last clause an +indication of public shaving performed in the churchyard or the market +place. + +The churchwardens of Worksop parish, Nottinghamshire, in 1729 paid +half-a-crown for a bond in which the barbers bound themselves "not to +shave on Sundays in the morning." + +At a meeting of the barber-surgeons of Newcastle-on-Tyne held in 1742 it +was ordered that no one should shave on a Sunday, and that "no brother +should shave John Robinson till he pays what he owes to Robert Shafto." + +The operation was in bygone Scotland pronounced sinful if performed on a +Sunday. Members of congregations are entitled to object to the +settlement of ministers, says the Rev. Dr Charles Rogers, provided they +can substantiate any charge affecting their life or doctrine. Mr +Davidson, presentee to Stenton in 1767, and Mr Edward Johnstone, +presentee to Moffat in 1743, were objected to for desecrating the +Sabbath by shaving on that day. The settlement of Mr Johnstone was +delayed four years, so persistent were the objectors in maintaining what +they regarded as the proper observance of the Sabbath. + +The Rev. Patrick Bronte, father of the famous novelists, was Perpetual +Curate of Thornton in Bradford Dale, from 1815 to 1820. Although a sense +of decency was sadly deficient among the majority of the inhabitants of +the district, they kept watch on the clergy, and were ever ready to make +known to the world their presumed as well as their real offences and +failings. The mistakes of some of them are well illustrated in an +anecdote related by Mr Abraham Holroyd, a well-known collector of local +lore. When Mr Bronte resided at Thornton it was rumoured in the village +that he had been seen by a Dissenter, through a chamber window, shaving +himself on a Sunday morning, which was considered to be a very serious +disregard of the obligation of Sabbath observance on the part of a +clergyman. Mrs Ackroyd, a lady residing in the parish, had an interview +with Mr Bronte on the subject. On his hearing what she had to say, he +observed: "I should like you to keep what I say in your family; but I +never shaved myself in all my life, or was ever shaved by any one else. +I have so little beard that a little clipping every three months is all +that is necessary." + +Occasionally, at the present day, barbers are brought before the +magistrates for working on Sunday. They are summoned under an old Act of +Charles II., for shaving on the Lord's Day. The maximum fine is five +shillings, and the costs of a case cannot be recovered from the +defendant. Generally the local hairdressers' association institutes the +action. + + + + +FROM BARBER TO SURGEON + + +From the ancient but humble position of the barber is evolved the +surgeon of modern times. Perhaps some members of the medical profession +would like to ignore the connection, but it is too true to be omitted +from the pages of history. The calling of a barber is of great +antiquity. We find in the Book of the Prophet Ezekiel (v. 1) allusions +to the Jewish custom of the barber shaving the head as a sign of +mourning. In the remote past the art of surgery and the trade of barber +were combined. It is clear that in all parts of the civilised world, in +bygone times, the barber acted as a kind of surgeon, or, to state his +position more precisely, he practised phlebotomy, the dressing of +wounds, etc. Their shops were general in Greece about 420 B.C., +and then, as now, were celebrated as places where the gossips met. +Barbers settled in Rome from Sicily in B.C. 299. + +The clergy up to about the twelfth century had the care of men's bodies +as well as their souls, and practised surgery and medicine. Barbers +gained much experience from the monks, whom they assisted in surgical +operations. The practice of surgery involved the shedding of blood, and +it was felt that this was incompatible with the functions of the +clergy. After much consideration and discussion, in 1163, the Council of +Tours, under Pope Alexander III., forbade the clergy to act as surgeons, +but they were permitted to dispense medicine. + +The Edict of Tours must have given satisfaction to the barbers, and they +were not slow to avail themselves of the opportunities the change +afforded them. In London, and it is to be feared in other places, the +barbers advertised their blood-letting in a most objectionable manner. +It was customary to put blood in their windows to attract the attention +of the public. An ordinance was passed in 1307 directing the barbers in +London to have the blood "privately carried into the Thames under the +pain of paying two shillings to the use of the Sheriffs." + +At an early period in London the barbers were banded together, and a +gild was formed. In the first instance it seems that the chief object +was the bringing together of the members at religious observances. They +attended the funerals and obits of deceased members and their wives. +Eventually it was transformed into a semi-social and religious gild, and +subsequently became a trade gild. In 1308 Richard le Barber, the first +master of the Barbers' Company, was sworn at the Guildhall, London. As +time progressed the London Company of Barbers increased in importance. +In the first year of the reign of Edward IV. (1462) the barbers were +incorporated by a Royal Charter, and it was confirmed by succeeding +monarchs. + +A change of title occurred in 1540, and it was then named the Company of +Barber-Surgeons. Holbein painted a picture of Henry VIII. and the +Barber-Surgeons. The painting is still preserved, and may be seen at the +Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell Street, London. Pepys pronounces this +"not a pleasant though a good picture." It is the largest and last work +of Holbein. + +The date assigned for its commencement was 1541, and it was completed +after the death of the artist in 1543. It is painted on vertical oak +boards, 5 ft. 11 in. high, and 10 ft. 2 in. long. It has been slightly +altered since it was delivered to the Barber-Surgeons. The figures +represent notable men belonging to the company and leaders of the +healing art of the period at which it was painted. + +[Illustration: Henry VIII. receiving the Barber-Surgeons.] + +In the reign of Henry VIII., not a few disputes occurred between the +barbers and the surgeons. The following enactment was in force: "No +person using any shaving or barbery in London shall occupy any surgery, +letting of blood, or other matter, except of drawing teeth." Laws were +made, but they could not, or at all events were not, enforced. The +barbers acted often as surgeons, and the surgeons increased their +income by the use of the razor and shears. At this period, however, +vigorous attempts were made to confine each to his legitimate work. + +The Rev. J.L. Saywell has a note on bleeding in his "History and Annals +of Northallerton" (1885). "Towards the early part of the nineteenth +century," observes Mr Saywell, "a singular custom prevailed in the town +and neighbourhood of Northallerton (Yorkshire). In the spring of the +year nearly all the robust male adults, and occasionally females, +repaired to a surgeon to be bled--a process which they considered +essentially conduced to vigorous health." The charge for this operation +was one shilling. + +Parliament was petitioned, in 1542, praying that surgeons might be +exempt from bearing arms and serving on juries, and thus be enabled +without hindrance to attend to their professional duties. The request +was granted, and to the present time medical men enjoy the privileges +granted so long ago. + +In 1745, the surgeons and the barbers were separated by Act of +Parliament. The barber-surgeons lingered for a long time, the last in +London, named Middleditch, of Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, only +dying in 1821. Mr John Timbs, the popular writer, left on record that he +had a vivid recollection of Middleditch's dentistry. + +Over the last resting-places of some barber-surgeons are curious +epitaphs. At Tewkesbury Abbey one in form of an acrostic is as +follows:-- + + "Here lyeth the body of Thomas Merrett, of Tewkesbury, + Barber-chirurgeon, who departed this life the 22nd day of October + 1699. + + =T=hough only Stone Salutes the reader's eye, + =H=ere (in deep silence) precious dust doth lye, + =O=bscurely Sleeping in Death's mighty store, + =M=ingled with common earth till time's no more. + =A=gainst Death's Stubborne laws, who dares repine, + =S=ince So much Merrett did his life resigne. + + =M=urmurs and Tears are useless in the grave, + =E=lse hee whole Vollies at his Tomb might have. + =R=est in Peace; who like a faithful steward, + =R=epair'd the Church, the Poore and needy cur'd; + =E=ternall mansions do attend the Just, + =T=o clothe with Immortality their dust, + =T=ainted (whilst under ground) with wormes and rust." + + +Under the shadow of the ancient church of Bakewell, Derbyshire, is a +stone containing a long inscription to the memory of John Dale, +barber-surgeon, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah +Bloodworth. It ends thus:-- + + "Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace + 1757, the rambling remains of the above John Dale were, in the 86th + yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives. + + This thing in life might raise some jealousy, + Here all three lie together lovingly, + But from embraces here no pleasure flows, + Alike are here all human joys and woes; + Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears, + And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears; + A period's come to all their toylsome lives + The good man's quiet; still are both his wives." + + + + + +BYGONE BEARDS + + +The history of the beard presents many items of interest connected with +our own and other countries. Its importance belongs more to the past +than to the present, but even to-day its lore is of a curious character. +We find in Leviticus xiii. 29, the earliest mention of our theme, where +Moses gives directions for the treatment of a plague in the beard, and a +little later he forbids the Israelites to "mar the corners" of it. +David, himself bearded, tells us that Aaron possessed one going down to +the skirts of his garments. In David's reign ambassadors were sent to +the King of Ammon, who, treating them as spies, cut off half of each of +their beards. We are told that they were greatly ashamed, and David sent +out to meet them, saying, "Tarry at Jericho until your beards be grown, +and then return." To shave off the beard was considered by the Jews as a +mark of the deepest grief. + +[Illustration: Bayeux Tapestry. + +The above picture, showing two soldiers of William the Conqueror's army, +is taken from the celebrated Bayeux tapestry.] + +To turn to the annals of our own land, we find that the ancient Britons +did not cultivate the beard. The Saxons wore the hair of the head long, +and upon the upper lip, but the chin was clean shaven. Harold, in his +progress towards the fateful field of Hastings, sent spies in advance to +obtain an idea as to the strength of the enemy. On their return they +stated among other things that "the host did almost seem to be priests, +because they had all their face and both their lips shaven," a statement +borne out by the representations of the Norman soldiers in the Bayeux +tapestry. It is recorded that when the haughty victors had divided the +broad lands of England among themselves, and when the Englishmen had +been made to feel that they were a subdued and broken nation, the +conquered people still kept up the old fashion of growing their hair +long, so that they might resemble as little as possible their cropped +and shaven masters. + +Julius II., who ascended the Papal throne in 1503, was the first Pope to +allow his beard to grow, "in order," as he said, "to inspire the +greater respect among the faithful." A curious custom of the Middle Ages +was that of imbedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of +the seal, in order to give greater solemnity to the document. Another +instance of the value placed on this adornment of nature by some nations +comes to us in the story of the Eastern potentate to whom the King of +England had sent a man without a beard as his ambassador. The Eastern +monarch flew into a passion when the beardless visitor was presented. +"Had my master measured wisdom by the beard," was the ready retort, "he +would have sent a goat." + +It is said that beards came into fashion in England in the thirteenth +century, but by the nineteenth century they seem to have been given up +by those holding leading positions in the land. Traces of beards do not +appear on monumental brasses. A revival of the practice of wearing the +beard occurred in the reign of Henry VIII., and in some quarters +attempts were made to repress it. The authorities at Lincoln's Inn +prohibited lawyers wearing beards from sitting at the great table, +unless they paid double commons; but it is highly probable that this was +before 1535, when the king ordered his courtiers to "poll their hair," +and permit the crisp beard to grow. Taxing beards followed, and the +amount was graduated according to the condition of the person wearing +this hirsute adornment. An entry has often been reproduced from the +Burghmote Book of Canterbury, made in the second year of the reign of +Edward VI., to the effect that the Sheriff of Canterbury and another +paid their dues for wearing beards, 3s. 4d. and 1s. 8d. During the next +reign, Queen Mary does not appear to have meddled with the beard. She +sent four agents to Moscow, and all were bearded; one of the number, +George Killingworth, had an unusually long one, measureing 5ft. 2in. in +length, the sight of which caused a smile to light up the face of Ivan +the Terrible. It is described as a thick, broad, and yellow beard, and +we are told that Ivan played with it after dinner as if it were a new +toy. When Sir Thomas More laid his head on the block he carefully put +his beard aside, saying, "It hath done no treason." John Knox (born 1505 +and died 1572), the famous Scottish reformer, whose name figures so +largely in the religious annals of his country, was remarkable for the +length of his beard. The Rev. John More was a native of Yorkshire, and +after being educated at Cambridge settled at Norwich. He was one of the +worthiest clergymen in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and gained the name +of "the Apostle of Norwich." His beard was the largest and longest of +any Englishman of his time. He used to give as his reason for wearing +his beard of unusual size "that no act of his life might be unworthy of +the gravity of his appearance." He died at Norwich in 1592. + +[Illustration: John Knox, born 1505, died 1572.] + +[Illustration: John Taylor, the Water Poet, born 1580, died 1654.] + +In the first year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth an attempt was made to +add to the revenue by taxing at the rate of 3s. 4d. every beard of above +a fortnight's growth. It was an abortive measure, and was not taken +seriously. It was never enforced, and people laughed at the Legislature +for attempting to raise money by means of the beard. In Elizabeth's +reign it was considered a mark of fashion to dye the beard and to cut +it into a variety of shapes. In the reigns of the first James and the +first Charles these forms attracted not a little attention from the +poets of the period. The rugged lines of Taylor, "the Water Poet," are +among the best known, and if not of great poetical merit, they show +considerable descriptive skill, and enable us to realise the fashions of +his day. In his "Superbiae Flagellum," he describes a great variety of +beards in his time, but omitted his own, which is that of a screw:-- + + "Now a few lines to paper I will put, + Of men's beards strange, and variable cut, + In which there's some that take as vain a pride + As almost in all other things beside; + Some are reap'd most substantial like a brush, + Which makes a nat'rel wit known by the bush; + And in my time of some men I have heard, + Whose wisdom have been only wealth and Beard; + Many of these the proverb well doth fit, + Which says, bush natural, more hair than wit: + Some seem, as they were starched stiff and fine, + Like to the bristles of some angry swine; + And some to set their love's desire on edge, + Are cut and prun'd like a quickset hedge; + Some like a spade, some like a fork, some square, + Some round, some mow'd like stubble, some stark bare; + Some sharp, stiletto fashion, dagger-like, + That may with whisp'ring, a man's eyes outpike; + Some with the hammer cut, or roman T, + Their Beards extravagant, reform'd must be; + Some with the quadrate, some triangle fashion, + Some circular, some oval in translation; + Some perpendicular in longitude; + Some like a thicket for their crassitude; + That heights, depths, breadths, triform, square, oval, round, + And rules geometrical in Beards are found." + +[Illustration: Lord Mayor of York escorting Princess Margaret through +York in 1503. Shows the Beard of the Lord Mayor.] + +Some curious lines appear in "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume," +edited by Frederick W. Fairholt, F.S.A., printed for the Percy Society, +1849. The piece which is entitled "The Ballad of the Beard," is +reprinted from a collection of poems, entitled "Le Prince d'Amour," +1660, but it is evidently a production of the time of Charles I., if not +earlier. "The varied form of the beard," says Fairholt, "which +characterised the profession of each wearer, is amusingly descanted on, +and is a curious fact in the chronicle of male fashions, during the +first half of the seventeenth century." Taylor, the Water Poet, has +alluded to the custom at some length; and other writers of the day have +so frequently mentioned the same thing, as to furnish materials for a +curious (privately-printed) pamphlet, by J.A. Repton, F.S.A., on the +various forms of the beard and mustachio. The beard, like "the Roman T," +mentioned in the following ballad, is exhibited in our cut--Fig. 1--from +a portrait of G. Raigersperg, 1649, in Mr Repton's book. + +[Illustration: Beards in the Olden Time] + +The stiletto-beard, as worn by Sir Edward Coke, is seen in Fig. 2. The +needle-beard was narrower and more pointed. The soldier's, or +spade-beard, Fig. 3, is from a Dutch portrait, also in Mr Repton's book. +The stubble, or close-cropped beard of a judge, requires no pictorial +illustration. The bishop's-beard, Fig. 4, is given in Randle Holme's +"Heraldry." He calls it "the broad, or cathedral-beard, because bishops, +and grave men of the church, anciently did wear such beards." "The beard +of King Harry may be seen in any portrait of Henry VIII. and the amusing +accuracy of the description tested. The clown's beard, busy and not +subject to any fashionable trimming, is sufficiently described in the +words of the song." We quote nearly the whole of this old ballad, in +fact all that has a real bearing on the subject of the beard:-- + + "The beard, thick or thin, on the lip or chin, + Doth dwell so near the tongue, + That her silence on the beard's defence + May do her neighbour wrong. + + Now a beard is a thing that commands in a king, + Be his sceptres ne'er so fair: + Where the beard bears the sway, the people obey, + And are subject to a hair. + + 'Tis a princely sight, and a grave delight, + That adorns both young and old; + A well thatcht face is a comely grace, + And a shelter from the cold. + + When the piercing north comes thundering forth, + Let barren face beware; + For a trick it will find, with a razor of wind, + To shave the face that's bare. + + But there's many a nice and strange device, + That doth the beard disgrace; + But he that is in such a foolish sin, + Is a traitor to his face. + + Now the beards there be of such a company, + And fashions such a throng, + That it is very hard to handle a beard, + Tho' it never be so long. + + The Roman T, in its bravery, + Doth first itself disclose, + But so high it turns, that oft it burns + With the flames of a too red nose. + + The stiletto-beard, oh! it makes me afeared, + It is so sharp beneath, + For he that doth place a dagger in 's face, + What wears he in his sheath? + + But, methinks, I do itch to go thro' stich + The needle-beard to amend, + Which, without any wrong, I may call too long, + For man can see no end. + + The soldier's-beard doth march in shear'd + In figure like a spade, + With which he'll make his enemies quake, + And think their graves are made. + + The grim stubble eke on the judge's chin, + Shall not my verse despise; + It is more fit for a nutmeg, but yet + It grates poor prisoners' eyes. + + What doth invest a bishop's breast + But a milk-white spreading hair? + Which an emblem may be of integrity, + Which doth inhabit there. + + But, oh! let us tarry for the beard of King Harry, + That grows about the chin, + With his bushy pride, and a grove on each side, + And a champion ground between. + + Last, the clown doth rush, with his beard like a bush, + Which may be well endur'd." + +Charles I. wore the Vandyke-beard, made familiar to us by the great +artist. This fashion, set by the king, was followed by nearly the whole +of his Cavaliers. It has been thought by some students of this subject +that with the tragic death of the king the beard disappeared, but if we +are to put our faith in an old song, dated 1660, we must conclude that +with the Restoration it once more came into fashion. It says:-- + + "Now of beards there be such company, + Of fashions such a throng, + That it is very hard to treat of the beard, + Tho' it be never so long." + +It did not remain popular for any length of time, the razor +everywhere keeping down its growth. + +[Illustration: The Gunpowder Conspirators, from a print published +immediately after the discovery. Shows the Beards in Fashion in 1605.] + +Sir Walter Scott's great grandsire was called "Beardie." He was an +ardent Jacobite, and made a vow that he would never shave his beard +until the Stuarts were restored. "It would have been well," said the +novelist, "if his zeal for the vanished dynasty had stopped with letting +his beard grow. But he took arms and intrigued in their cause, until he +lost all he had in the world, and, as I have heard, ran a narrow risk of +being hanged, had it not been for the interference of Anne, Duchess of +Buccleuch and Monmouth." Sir Walter refers to him in the introduction to +Canto VI. of "Marmion":-- + + "With amber beard and flaxen hair, + And reverend apostolic air. + Small thought was his, in after time + E'er to be pitched into a rhyme. + The simple sire could only boast + That he was loyal to his cost; + The banish'd race of kings revered, + And lost his land--but kept his beard." + +He died in 1729 at Kelso. "Beardie's" second son, named Robert, was a +farmer at Sandyknowe, and was Sir Walter Scott's grandfather. + +A contributor to _Notes and Queries_, for October 1st, 1859, gives the +following interesting particulars of a Shaving Statute relating to +Ireland:--"In a parliament held at Trim by John Talbot, Earl of +Shrewsbury, then Lord-Lieutenant, anno 1447, 25 Henry VI., it was +enacted 'That every Irishman must keep his upper lip shaved, or else be +used as an Irish enemy.' The Irish at this time were much attached to +the national foppery of wearing mustachios, the fashion then throughout +Europe, and for more than two centuries after. The unfortunate Paddy who +became an enemy for his beard, like an enemy was treated; for the +treason could only be pardoned by the surrender of his land. Thus two +benefits accrued to the king: his enemies were diminished, and his +followers provided for; many of whose descendants enjoy the confiscated +properties to this day, which may appropriately be designated +Hair-breadth estates." The effects of this statute became so alarming +that the people submitted to the English revolutionary razor, and found +it more convenient to resign their beards than their lands. This +agrarian law was repealed by Charles I., after existing two hundred +years. + +The Macedonian soldiers were ordered by Alexander to shave, lest their +beards should be handles for the enemy to capture them by. The smooth +chin was adopted in the Greek army. To pull a person's beard has from +remote times been regarded as an act of most degrading insult. Dr Doran +tells a tragic story bearing on this usage. "When the Jew," says the +doctor, "who hated and feared the living Cid Rui Dios, heard that the +great Spaniard was dead, he contrived to get into the room where the +body lay, and he indulged his revengeful spirit by contemptuously +plucking at the beard. But the 'son of somebody' (the hidalgo) was +plucked temporarily into life and indignation by the outrage; and +starting up, endeavoured to get his sword, an attempt which killed the +Jew by mere fright which it caused." In Afghanistan "the system of +administering justice was such," says the "Life of Abdur Rahman" +(London, 1890) "that the humble were able to bring their claims before +the sovereign by the simple process of getting hold of the sovereign's +beard and turban, which meant to throw one's complaints on the shame of +his beard, to which he was bound to listen. One day I was going to the +Hum-hum (Turkish bath) when a man and his wife, running fast, rushed +into the bathroom after me, and the husband, having got hold of my beard +from the front, the wife was pulling me at the same time from behind. It +was very painful, as he was pulling my beard rather hard. As there was +no guard or sentry near to deliver me from their hands, I begged them to +leave my beard alone, saying that I could listen without my beard being +pulled, but all in vain. I was rather sorry that I had not adopted the +fashion of the Europeans, whose faces are clean shaven. I ordered that +in future a strong guard should be placed at the door of the Hum-hum." + +Some of the ancient faiths regarded the beard as an appendage not to be +touched with the razor, and a modern instance bearing on the old belief +will be read with interest. Mr Edward Vizetelly, in his entertaining +volume "From Cyprus to Zanzibar" (London, 1901), tells some good stories +about the priests in Cyprus. Mr Vizetelly went to the island as soon as +it passed into the hands of the British Government, and remained there a +few years. "On one occasion," he says, "when I happened to be in the +bazaar at Larnaca in the early afternoon, I was amazed to witness all +the shopkeepers, apart from the Maltese, suddenly putting up their +shutters, as if panic-stricken, but without any apparent cause. +Inquiring the reason, it was only vouchsafed to me that someone had +shaved off a priest's beard." The priest had been imprisoned for felling +a tree in his own garden, which was against the laws of the land then in +force. When in gaol the recalcitrant priest had his unclean hair and +beard shorn off, in accordance with the prison regulations. The +authorities were not aware that the hirsute adornments of the Orthodox +Catholic faith were sacred. The act roused the Cyprist ire, and the High +Commissioner had to issue orders that if any priest was locked up in +future his hair and beard were to be left alone. + +Respecting the beard are some popular sayings, and we deal with a few as +follows. + +A familiar example is "To pull the devil by the beard." When Archbishop +Laud was advised to escape from this country he said, "If I should get +into Holland, I should expose myself to the insults of those sectaries +there, to whom my character is odious, and have every Anabaptist come to +pull me by the beard." This insulting saying is by no means confined to +England. To demand a person's beard was regarded as a still greater +insult. King Ryons, when he sent a messenger to King Arthur to demand +his beard, received the following answer:-- + +"Wel, sayd Arthur, thou hast said thy message, ye whiche is ye +most vylaynous and lewdest message that ever man herd sent unto a kynge. +Also thou mayst see, my berd is ful yong yet to make a purfyl of hit. +But telle thou thy kynge this, I owe hym none homage, ne none of myn +elders, but, or it be longe to, he shall do me homage on bothe his +kneys, or else he shall lese his hede by ye feith of my body, for +this is ye most shamefullest message that ever I herd speke of. I +have aspyed, thy kyng met never yet with worshipful men; but tell hym, I +wyll have his hede without he doo me homage. Thenne ye messager +departed." ("The Byrth, Lyf and Actes of Kyng Arthur," edit, by Caxton, +1485, reprinted 1817.) + +"To make any one's beard" is an old saying, which means "to cheat him," +or "to deceive him." We read in Chaucer's _Prologue to the Wife of +Bath_ thus:-- + + "In faith he shal not kepe me, but me lest: + Yet coude I make his berd, so mete I the" + +[Illustration: Geoffrey Chaucer, born about 1340, died 1400.] + +And again, in the "Reve's Tale," the Miller said:-- + + "I trow, the clerkes were aferde + Yet can a miller make a clerkes bearde, + For all his art." + +A more familiar saying is "To beard a person," meaning to affront him, +or to set him at defiance. Todd explains the allusion in a note in his +edition of Spenser's _Faerie Queene_--"did beard affront him to his +face"; so Shakespeare's _King Henry IV._, Part I. Act i.: "I beard thee +to thy face"--Fr. "Faire la Barbe a quelqu'un." Ital. "Fa la barbe ad +uno" (Upton.) + +See Steevens's note on the use of the word Beard in _King Henry IV._, +which is adopted, he says, "from romances, and originally signified to +'cut off the beard.'" Mr John Ady Repton, F.S.A., to whom we are mainly +indebted for our illustrations of these popular sayings, directs +attention to a specimen of defiance expressed in Agamemnon's speech to +Achilles, as translated by Chapman:-- + + --"and so tell thy strength how eminent + My power is, being compared with thine; + all other making feare + To vaunt equality with me, or in this + proud kind beare + Their beards against me." + +In Shirley's play, _A Contention for Honour and Riches_, 1633:-- + + "You have worn a sword thus long to show ye hilt, + Now let the blade appear. + COURTIER.--Good Captain Voice, + It shall, and teach you manners; I have yet + No ague, I can look upon your buff, + And punto beard, and call for no strong waters." + +"It is difficult to ascertain," says Repton, "when the custom of pulling +the nose superseded that of pulling the beard, but most probably when +the chin became naked and close shaven, affording no longer a handle for +insult." In the reign of James II., William Cavendish, Earl of +Devonshire, paid L30,000 for offering this insult to a person at Court. +An earlier instance of pulling the nose may be found in Ben Jonson's +_Epicaene, or the Silent Woman_, Act iv. sc. 5. + +In "Aubrey's Letters" is an allusion to wiping the beard. "Ralph Kettle, +D.D.," we read, "preached in St Mary's Church at Oxford, and, in +conclusion of a sermon, said, 'But now I see it is time for me to shutt +up my booke, for I see the doctors' men come in wiping their beards from +the ale-house' (he could from the pulpit plainly see them, and 't was +their custome to go there, and, about the end of the Sermon, to return +to wayte on their masters)." An old play by Lyly, entitled _Mother +Bombie_ (1597-98), Act i. sc. 3, contains the following passage:-- + +"Tush, spit not you, and I'll warrant I, my beard is as good as a +handkerchief." + +Our quotations from old plays are mainly drawn from Repton's little +book, "Some account of the Beard and Moustachio," of which one hundred +copies were printed for private circulation in 1839. + +The extracts which we have reproduced are not such as to cause the beard +to find favour with the ladies. In Marston's _Antonio and Melida_, +(1602), Act v., we read as follows:-- + +"PIERO.--Faith, mad niece, I wonder when thou wilt marry? + +"ROSSALINE.--Faith, kind Uncle, when men abandon jealousy, +forsake taking tobacco, and cease to wear their beards so rudely long. +Oh! to have a husband with a mouth continually smoking, with a bush of +furze on the ridge of his chin, ready still to flop into his foaming +chaps; ah! 't is more than most intolerable." + +In another part of the same play are other objections to the mustachios. +We find in other old plays allusions to women combing and stroking +beards. "There is no accounting," says Repton, "for the taste of ladies. +Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, with his large massive beard, won the +heart of the fair sister of Henry VIII. Although the 'Cloth of friez may +not be too bold,' the courtship was most probably begun by the lady +(_i.e._ the Cloth of Gold). Although ladies do not speak out, they have +a way of expressing their wishes by the 'eloquence of eyes.' That the +fair princess ever amused herself in combing or brushing her husband's +beard is not recorded in the history of England." Many references find a +place in bygone plays relating to combs and brushes for the beard. + +Starching the beard was an operation which occupied some time if +carefully performed. It is stated in the "Life of Mrs Elizabeth Thomas," +published in 1731, of Mr Richard Shute, her grandfather, a Turkey +merchant, that he was very nice in the mode of that age, his valet +being some hours every morning in starching his beard, and curling his +whiskers, during which time a gentleman, whom he maintained as a +companion, always read to him upon some useful subject. In closing, we +have to state that cardboard boxes were worn at night in bed to protect +the beard from being disarranged. + + + + +TAXING THE BEARD + + +Beards, in some instances, were taxed in bygone England, but not to the +same extent as in Russia, which had numerous singular laws in force for +nearly sixty years. In nearly all parts of Europe, by the commencement +of the eighteenth century, the custom of wearing beards had been given +up. Peter the Great was wishful that his subjects should conform to the +prevailing fashion. In 1705 he imposed a tax upon all those who wore +either a beard or a moustache, varying from thirty to one hundred +roubles per annum. It was fixed according to the rank of the taxpayer. A +peasant, for instance, was only required to pay two dengops, equal to +one copeck, whenever he passed through the gate of a town. This tax gave +rise to much discontent, and in enforcing it the utmost vigilance had +to be exercised to prevent an outbreak in the country. Notwithstanding +this, the law was, in 1714, put into operation in St Petersburg, which +had previously been exempt. In 1722 it was ordered that all who retained +their beards should wear a particular dress and pay fifty roubles +annually. If a man would not shave, and was unable to pay, he was +sentenced to hard labour. This law was extended to the provinces, but in +1723 peasants bringing produce into towns were wholly relieved from this +tax. Peter passed away in 1725, and Catherine I. confirmed all the +edicts relating to the beard in the ukase dated 4th August 1726. + +A decree was issued by Peter II. in 1728 permitting peasants employed in +agriculture to wear their beards. Fifty roubles had to be paid by all +other persons, and the tax was rigidly enforced. The Empress Anne took a +firm attitude against the beard. In 1731 she promulgated a ukase by +which all persons not engaged in husbandry retaining their beards were +entered in the class of Raskolnicks, in addition to paying the beard tax +of fifty roubles, double the amount of all other taxes. + +In 1743 the Empress Elizabeth confirmed the existing decrees in all +their force. Peter III., on his accession to the throne in 1762, +intended to strengthen the laws of his predecessors, and prepared some +stringent measures; but his sudden death prevented them from being put +into force. His widow, Catherine II. (1762), did not share his feelings +in this matter, and immediately on obtaining sovereign power she removed +every restriction relating to the beard. She invited the Raskolnicks, +who had fled from the country to avoid the objectionable edicts, to +return, and assigned land to them for their settlement. + +[Illustration: Russian Beard Token, A.D. 1705.] + +During thirty-eight years in Russia, the beard-token or Borodoraia (the +bearded), as it was called, was in use. As we write we have one of these +tokens before us, and on one side are represented a nose, mouth, +moustaches, and a large flowing beard, with the inscription "dinge +vsatia," which means "money received"; the reverse bears the year in +Russian characters (equivalent to "1705 year"), and the black eagle of +the empire. + +Our facts are mainly drawn from a paper by Mr Walter Hawkins in the +"Numismatic Chronicle," volume vii., 1845. He says that beard-tokens +are rare, and he thinks that the national aversion to their origin +probably caused their destruction or dispersion after they had served +their purpose for the year. + + + + +POWDERING THE HAIR + + +In the olden days hair-powder was largely used in this country, and many +circumstances connected with its history are curious and interesting. We +learn from Josephus that the Jews used hair-powder, and from the East it +was no doubt imported into Rome. The history of the luxurious days of +the later Roman Empire supplies some strange stories. At this period +gold-dust was employed by several of the emperors. "The hair of +Commodus," it is stated on the authority of Herodian, "glittered from +its natural whiteness, and from the quantity of essences and gold-dust +with which it was loaded, so that when the sun was shining it might have +been thought that his head was on fire." + +It is supposed, and not without a good show of reason, that the Saxons +used coloured hair-powder, or perhaps they dyed their hair. In Saxon +pictures the beard and hair are often painted blue. Strutt supplies +interesting notes on the subject. "In some instances," he says, "which, +indeed, are not so common, the hair is represented of a bright red +colour, and in others it is of a green and orange hue. I have no doubt +existing in my own mind, that arts of some kind were practised at this +period to colour the hair; but whether it was done by tingeing or dyeing +it with liquids prepared for that purpose according to the ancient +Eastern custom, or by powders of different hues cast into it, agreeably +to the modern practice, I shall not presume to determine." + +It was customary among the Gauls to wash the hair with a lixivium made +of chalk in order to increase its redness. The same custom was +maintained in England for a long period, and was not given up until +after the reign of Elizabeth. The sandy-coloured hair of the queen +greatly increased the popularity of the practice. + +The satirists have many allusions to this subject, more especially those +of the reigns of James and Charles I. In a series of epigrams entitled +"Wit's Recreations," 1640, the following appears under the heading of +_Our Monsieur Powder-wig_:-- + + "Oh, doe but marke yon crisped sir, you meet! + How like a pageant he doth walk the street! + See how his perfumed head is powdered ore; + 'Twou'd stink else, for it wanted salt before." + +In "Musarum Deliciae," 1655, we read:-- + + "At the devill's shopps you buy + A dresse of powdered hayre, + On which your feathers flaunt and fly; + But i'de wish you have a care, + Lest Lucifer's selfe, who is not prouder, + Do one day dresse up your haire with a powder." + +From the pen of R. Younge, in 1656, appeared "The Impartial Monitor." +The author closes with a tirade against female follies in these words: +"It were a good deed to tell men also of mealing their heads and +shoulders, of wearing fardingales about their legs, etc.; for these +likewise deserve the rod, since all that are discreet do but hate and +scorn them for it." A _Loyal Litany_ against the Oliverians runs thus:-- + + "From a king-killing saint, + Patch, powder, and paint, + Libera nos, Domine." + +Massinger, in the "City Madam," printed in 1679, describing the dress of +a rich merchant's wife, mentions powder thus:-- + + "Since your husband was knighted, as I said, + The reverend hood cast off, your borrowed hair + Powdered and curled, was by your dresser's art, + Formed like a coronet, hanged with diamonds + And richest orient pearls." + +John Gay, in his poem, "Trivia, or the Art of Walking the Streets of +London," published in 1716, advises in passing a coxcomb-- + + "Him like the Miller, pass with caution by, + Lest from his shoulder clouds of powder fly." + +We learn from the "Annals of the Barber-Surgeons" some particulars +respecting the taxing of powder. On 8th August 1751, "Mr John Brooks," +it is stated, "attended and produced a deed to which he requested the +subscription of the Court; this deed recited that by an Act of +Parliament passed in the tenth year of Queen Anne, it was enacted that a +duty of twopence per pound should be laid upon all starch imported, and +of a penny per pound upon all starch made in Great Britain, that no +perfumer, barber, or seller of hair-powder should mix any powder of +alabaster, plaster of Paris, whiting, lime, etc. (sweet scents +excepted), with any starch to be made use of for making hair-powder, +under a pain of forfeiting the hair-powder and L50, and that any person +who should expose the same for sale should forfeit it and L20." Other +details were given in the deed, and the Barber-Surgeons gave it their +support, and promised twenty guineas towards the cost of passing the +Bill through Parliament. + +A few years prior to the above proceeding we gather from the +_Gentleman's Magazine_ particulars of some convictions for using powder +not made in accordance with the laws of the land. "On the 20th October, +1745," it is recorded, "fifty-one barbers were convicted before the +commissioners of excise, and fined in the penalty of L20, for having in +their custody hair-powder not made of starch, contrary to Act of +Parliament: and on the 27th of the same month, forty-nine other barbers +were convicted of the same offence, and fined in the like penalty." + +Before powder was used, the hair was generally greased with pomade, and +powdering operations were attended with some trouble. In houses of any +pretension was a small room set apart for the purpose, and it was known +as the powdering-room. Here were fixed two curtains, and the person went +behind, exposing the head only, which received its proper supply of +powder without any going on the clothes of the individual dressed. In +the _Rambler_, No. 109, under date 1751, a young gentleman writes that +his mother would rather follow him to his grave than see him sneak about +with dirty shoes and blotted fingers, hair unpowdered, and a hat +uncocked. + +We have seen that hair-powder was taxed, and on the 5th of May, 1795, an +Act of Parliament was passed taxing persons using it. Pitt was in power, +and being sorely in need of money, hit upon the plan of a tax of a +guinea per head on those who used hair powder. He was prepared to meet +much ridicule by this movement, but he saw that it would yield a +considerable revenue, estimating it at as much as L200,000 a year. Fox, +with force, said that a fiscal arrangement dependent on a capricious +fashion must be regarded as an absurdity, but the Opposition were +unable to defeat the proposal, and the Act was passed. Pitt's powerful +rival, Charles James Fox, in his early manhood, was one of the most +fashionable men in London. Here are a few particulars of his "get up" +about 1770, drawn from the _Monthly Magazine_: "He had his chapeau-bas, +his red-heeled shoes, and his blue hair-powder." Later, when Pitt's tax +was gathered, like other Whigs, he refused to use hair-powder. For more +than a quarter of a century it had been customary for men to wear their +hair long, tied in a pig-tail and powdered. Pitt's measure gave rise to +a number of Crop Clubs. The _Times_ for April 14th, 1795, contains +particulars of one. "A numerous club," says the paragraph, "has been +formed in Lambeth, called the Crop Club, every member of which, on his +entrance, is obliged to have his head docked as close as the Duke of +Bridgewater's old bay coach-horses. This assemblage is instituted for +the purpose of opposing, or rather evading, the tax on powdered heads." +Hair cropping was by no means confined to the humbler ranks of society. +The _Times_ of April 25th, 1795, reports that: "The following noblemen +and gentlemen were at the party with the Duke of Bedford, at Woburn +Abbey, when a general cropping and combing out of hair-powder took +place: Lord W. Russell, Lord Villiers, Lord Paget, etc., etc. They +entered into an engagement to forfeit a sum of money if any of them +wore their hair tied, or powdered, within a certain period. Many +noblemen and gentlemen in the county of Bedford have since followed the +example: it has become general with the gentry in Hampshire, and the +ladies have left off wearing powder." Hair powder did not long continue +in use in the army, for in 1799 it was abolished on account of the high +price of flour, caused through the bad harvests. Using flour for the +hair instead of for food was an old grievance among the poor. In the +"Art of Dressing the Hair," 1770, the author complains:-- + + "Their hoarded grain contractors spare, + And starve the poor to beautify the hair." + +Pitt's estimates proved correct, for in the first year the tax produced +L210,136. The tax was increased from a guinea to one pound three +shillings and sixpence. Pitt's Tory friends gave him loyal support. The +Whigs might taunt them by calling them "guinea-pigs," it mattered +little, for they were not merely ready to pay the tax for themselves, +but to pay patriotic guineas for their servants. A number of persons +were exempt from paying the tax, including "the royal family and their +servants, the clergy with an income of under L100 per annum, subalterns, +non-commissioned officers and privates of the yeomanry and volunteers +enrolled during the past year. A father having more than two unmarried +daughters might obtain on payment for two, a licence for the remainder." +A gentleman took out a licence for his butler, coachman, and footman, +etc., and if he changed during the year it stood good for the newly +engaged servants. + +Powder was not wholly set aside by ladies until 1793, when with +consideration Queen Charlotte abandoned its use, swayed no doubt by her +desire to cheapen, in that time of dearth, the flour of which it was +made. It has been said its disuse was attributable to Sir Joshua +Reynolds, Angelica Kauffmann, and other painters of their day, but it is +much more likely that the artists painted the hair "full and flowing" +because they found it so, not that they as a class dictated to their +patronesses in despite of fashion. The French Revolution had somewhat to +do with the change; a powdered head or wig was a token of aristocracy, +and as the fashion might lead to the guillotine, sensible people +discarded it long before the English legislature put a tax upon its use. +With reference to this Sir Walter Scott says, in the fifth chapter of +"The Antiquary:" "Regular were the Antiquary's inquiries at an +old-fashioned barber, who dressed the only three wigs in the parish, +which, in defiance of taxes and times, were still subjected to the +operation of powdering and frizzling, and who for that purpose divided +his time among the three employers whom fashion had yet left him. + +"'Fly with this letter, Caxon,' said the senior ('The Antiquary'), +holding out his missive, 'fly to Knockwinnock, and bring me back an +answer. Go as fast as if the town council were met and waiting for the +provost, and the provost was waiting for his new powdered wig.' 'Ah, +sir,' answered the messenger, with a deep sigh, 'thae days hae lang gane +by. Deil a wig has a provost of Fairport worn sin' auld Provost Jervie's +time--and he had a quean of a servant lass that dressed it hersel', wi' +the doup o' a candle and a dredging box. But I hae seen the day, +Monkbarns, when the town council of Fairport wad hae as soon wanted +their town-clerk, or their gill of brandy owerhead after the haddies, as +they wad hae wanted ilk ane a weel-favoured, sonsy, decent periwig on +his pow. Hegh, sirs! nae wonder the commons will be discontent, and rise +against the law, when they see magistrates, and bailies, and deacons, +and the provost himsel', wi' heads as bald an' as bare as one o' my +blocks.'" It was not in Scotland alone that the barber was peripatetic. +"In the eighteenth century," says Mrs G. Linnaeus Banks, author of the +"Manchester Man" and other popular novels, "he waited on his chief +customers or patrons at their own homes, not merely to shave, but to +powder the hair or the wig, and he had to start on his round betimes. +Where the patron was the owner of a spare periwig it might be dressed in +advance, and sent home in a box or mounted on a stand, such as a +barrister keeps handy at the present day. But when ladies had powdered +top-knots, the hairdresser made his harvest, especially when a ball or a +rout made the calls for his services many and imperative. When at least +a couple of hours were required for the arrangement of a single toupee +or tower, or commode, as the head-dress was called, it may be well +understood that for two or three days prior to the ball the hairdresser +was in demand, and as it was impossible to lie down without disarranging +the structure he had raised on pads, or framework of wire, plastering +with pomatum and disguising with powder, the belles so adorned or +disfigured were compelled to sit up night and day, catching what sleep +was possible in a chair. And when I add that a head so dressed was +rarely disturbed for ten days or a fortnight, it needs no stretch of +imagination to realise what a mass of loathsome nastiness the fine +ladies of the last century carried about with them, or what strong +stomachs the barbers must have had to deal with them." + +When the eighteenth century was drawing to a close the cry for bread was +heard in the land. In 1795 the price of grain rose very high on account +of the small supplies coming into the market. Bakers in many instances +sold bread deficient in weight, and to check the fraud many shopkeepers +were fined sums from L64, 5s. to L106, 5s. The Privy Council gave the +matter serious consideration, and strongly urged that families should +refrain from having puddings, pies, and other articles made of flour. +King George III. gave orders in 1795 for the bread used in his household +to be made of meal and rye mixed. He would not permit any other sort to +be baked, and the Royal Family partook of the same quality of bread as +was eaten by the servants. + +A great deal of flour was used as hair powder, and an attempt was made +to check its use. The following is a copy of a municipal proclamation +issued at Great Yarmouth, the original of which is preserved in the +office of the Town Clerk:-- + + "DISUSE OF HAIR POWDER. + + "Owing to the present enormous price of corn, and the alarming + approach of a scarcity in that most necessary article, many towns + throughout the kingdom have set the laudable example of leaving off + for a time the custom of wearing powder for the hair; by which + means a great quantity of wheat must infallibly be saved to the + nation; and if the price be not reduced, it may at least be + prevented from increasing. We, therefore, the Mayor, Justices, and + principal inhabitants of Great Yarmouth, do recommend this example + as worthy to be imitated; and we flatter ourselves the Military + will not hesitate to adopt it, being fully convinced that + appearances are at all times to be sacrificed to the public weal, + and that in doing this they really do good. + + "W. TAYLOR, Mayor. + + "January 27th, 1795." + +Lord Hawkesbury, on February 20th, 1800, presented a bill in the House +of Commons prohibiting bakers from vending bread that had not been baked +a certain number of hours. The bill was read a first and second time, +and immediately went into Committee. It passed this stage, and went to +the House of Lords, where it was at once passed. Subsequently it +received the royal assent. + +We find in a local paper, dated March 31st, 1800, that a baker in Hull +was fined L10 for selling bread within twenty-four hours of its having +been baked, agreeable to Act of Parliament for that purpose. + +The Tories often regarded with mistrust any persons who did not use +hair-powder. The Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A., the eminent +antiquary, relates a good story respecting his grandfather. "So late as +1820," says Dr Cox, "Major Cox of Derby, an excellent Tory, declined for +some time to allow his son Edward to become a pupil of a well-known +clerical tutor, for the sole reason that the clergyman did not powder, +and wore his hair short, arguing that he must therefore be a dangerous +revolutionist." In 1869 the tax on hair-powder was repealed, when only +some 800 persons paid it, producing about L1000 per year. + + + + +THE AGE OF WIGS + + +At the present time, when the wig is no longer worn by the leaders of +fashion, we cannot fully realise the important place it held in bygone +times. Professional as well as fashionable people did not dare to appear +in public without their wigs, which vied with each other in size and +style. + +[Illustration: Egyptian Wig (probably for female), from the British +Museum.] + +To trace the origin of the wig our investigations must be carried to far +distant times. It was worn in Egypt in former days, and the Egyptians +are said to have invented it, not merely as a covering for baldness, but +as a means of adding to the attractiveness of the person wearing it. On +the mummies of Egypt wigs are found, and we give a picture of one now in +the British Museum. This particular wig probably belonged to a female, +and was found near the small temple of Isis, Thebes. It was customary in +Egypt to shave the head, and the wig was an excellent covering for the +head, much better than a turban, for the wig protected it from the rays +of the sun, and its texture allowed the transpiration of the head to +escape. The wigs were worn both within the house and out of doors. The +specimens of Egyptian wigs in the British Museum consist of curled hair +in the upper portions, and the lower parts and sides are made of plaited +hair. Ointment was used at the top of the wig in the same manner as if +it had been hair growing on the head. + +Assyrian sculptures frequently represent the wig, and its use is +recorded among ancient nations including Persians, Medes, Lydians, +Carians, Greeks, and Romans. _Galerus_, a round cap, was the common name +among the Romans for a wig. + +The early fathers of the Church denounced the wig as an invention of the +Evil One. St Gregory of Nazianzus, as a proof of the virtue of his +simple sister Gorgonia, said "she neither cared to curl her own hair, +nor to repair its lack of beauty by the aid of a wig." St Jerome +pronounced these adornments as unworthy of Christianity. The matter +received consideration, or perhaps, to put it more correctly, +condemnation, at many councils, commencing at Constantinople, and coming +down to the Provincial Council at Tours. The wig was not tolerated, even +if worn as a joke. "There is no joke in the matter," said the enraged St +Bernard: "the woman who wears a wig commits a mortal sin." St John +Chrysostom pleaded powerfully against this enormity; and others might be +mentioned who spoke with no uncertain sound against this fashion. + +Dr Doran relates a strange story, saying that St Jerome vouches for its +authenticity, and that by him it was told to deter ladies from wearing +wigs. "Praetexta," to use Doran's words, "was a very respectable lady, +married to a somewhat paganist husband, Hymetius. Their niece, +Eustachia, resided with them. At the instigation of the husband, +Praetexta took the shy Eustachia in hand, attired her in a splendid dress +and covered her fair neck with ringlets. Having enjoyed the sight of the +modest maiden so attired, Praetexta went to bed. To that bedside +immediately descended an angel, with wrath upon his brow, and billows +of angry sounds rolling from his lips. 'Thou hast,' said the spirit, +'obeyed thy husband rather than the Lord, and hast dared to deck the +hair of a virgin, and make her look like a daughter of earth. For this +do I wither up thy hands, and bid them recognise the enormity of thy +crime in the amount of thy anguish and bodily suffering. Five months +more shalt thou live, and then Hell shall be thy portion; and if thou +art bold enough to touch the head of Eustachia again, thy husband and +thy children shall die even before thee.'" + +Church history furnishes some strange stories against wearing wigs, and +the following may be taken as a good example. Clemens of Alexandria, so +runs the tale, surprised wig-wearers by telling those who knelt at +church that to receive the blessing, they must please to bear in mind +that the benediction remained on the wig, and did not pass through to +the wearer! Some immediately removed their wigs, but others allowed them +to remain, no doubt hoping to receive a blessing. + +History supplies many interesting passages bearing on our present +investigations. The Lycians, having been engaged in war, were defeated. +Mausoleus, their conqueror, ruthlessly directed the subdued men to have +their heads shaven. This was humiliating in the extreme, and the Lycians +were keenly alive to their ridiculous appearance. The king's general +was tempted with bribes, and finally yielded, and allowed wigs to be +imported for them from Greece, and thus the symbol of degradation became +the pink of Lycian fashion. + +Hannibal, the brave soldier, is recorded to have worn two sorts of wigs, +one to improve, and the other to disguise his person. + +Wigs are said to have been worn in England in the reign of King Stephen, +but their palmy days belong to the seventeenth and the earlier part of +the eighteenth centuries. According to Stow, they were introduced into +this country about the time of the Massacre of Paris, but they are not +often alluded to until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The earliest +payment for one in the Privy Purse expenses occurs in December 1529, and +is for twenty shillings "for a perwyke for Sexton, the king's fool." +Some twenty years later wigs, or, to give the full title, periwigs, +became popular. In France the mania was at its height in the reign of +Louis XIV. We are told that in 1656 he had not fewer than forty court +perruquiers, and these, by an Order of Council, were declared artistes. +In addition to this, Le Gros instituted at Paris an Academie de France +des Perruquiers. Robinson records that a storm was gathering about their +heads. He tells us "the celebrated Colbert, amazed at the large sums +spent for foreign hair, conceived the idea of prohibiting the wearing of +wigs at Court, and tried to introduce a kind of cap." He lost the day, +for it was proved that more money reached the country for wigs than went +out to purchase hair. The fashion increased; larger wigs were worn, and +some even cost L200 apiece. + +Charles II. was the earliest English king represented on the Great Seal +wearing a large periwig. Dr Doran assures us that the king did not bring +the fashion to Whitehall. "He forbade," we are told, "the members of the +Universities to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or to read their sermons. +The members did all three, and Charles soon found himself doing the +first two." + +Pepys' "Diary" contains much interesting information concerning wigs. +Under date of 2nd November, 1663, he writes: "I heard the Duke say that +he was going to wear a periwig, and says the King also will. I never +till this day observed that the King is mighty gray." It was perhaps the +change in the colour of his Majesty's hair that induced him to assume +the head-dress he had previously so strongly condemned. + +As might be expected, Pepys, who delighted to be in the fashion, adopted +the wig. He took time to consider the matter, and had consultations with +Mr Jervas, his old barber, about the affair. Referring in his "Diary" to +one of his visits to his hairdresser, Pepys says, "I did try two or +three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one, and yet I have no +stomach for it; but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is great. He +trimmed me, and at last I parted, but my mind was almost altered from my +first purpose, from the trouble which I foresee in wearing them also." +Weeks passed before he could make up his mind to wear a wig. Mrs Pepys +was taken to the periwig-maker's shop to see the one made for Mr Pepys, +and expressed her satisfaction on seeing it. We read of the wig being at +Jervas's under repair in April 1665. Early in May, Pepys writes in his +"Diary," that he suffered his hair to grow long, in order to wear it; +but he said, "I will have it cut off all short again, and will keep to +periwigs." Later, under date of September 3rd, he writes: "Lord's day. +Up; and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig, +bought a good while since, but durst not wear, because the plague was in +Westminster when I bought it; and it is a wonder what will be in +fashion, after the plague is done, as to periwigs, for nobody will dare +to buy any hair, for fear of the infection, that it had been cut off the +heads of people dead of the plague." + +We learn from an entry in the "Diary" for June 11th, 1666, that ladies, +in addition to assuming masculine costume for riding, wore long wigs. +"Walking in the galleries at Whitehall," observes Mr Pepys, "I find the +ladies of honour dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets +with deep skirts, just for all the world like mine, and buttoned their +doublets up the breast, with periwigs and with hats, so that, only for +long petticoats dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them +for women in any point whatever." Pepys, we have seen, wondered if +periwigs would survive after the terrible plague. He thought not, but he +was mistaken. Wigs still remained popular. The plague passed away, and +its terrors were forgotten. The world of folly went on much as of yore, +perhaps with greater gaiety, as a reaction to the lengthened time of +depression. + +[Illustration: The Earl of Albemarle.] + +In some instances the wig appears much out of place, and a notable +example is that given in the portrait by Kneller, of George, Earl of +Albemarle. He is dressed in armour, and wearing a long flowing wig. +Anything more absurd could scarcely be conceived. + +The beau of the period when the wig was popular carried in his pocket +beautifully made combs, and in his box at the play, or in other places, +combed his periwig, and rendered himself irresistible to the ladies. +Making love seems to have been the chief aim of his life. Sir John +Hawkins, in his "History of Music," published in 1776, has an informing +note on combing customs. "On the Mall and in the theatre," he tells us, +"gentlemen conversed and combed their perukes. There is now in being a +fine picture by the elder Laroon of John, Duke of Marlborough, at his +levee, in which his Grace is represented dressed in a scarlet suit, with +large white satin cuffs, and a very long white peruke which he combs, +while his valet, who stands behind him, adjusts the curls after the comb +has passed through them." Allusions to this practice may be found in the +plays from the reign of Charles II. down to the days of Queen Anne. We +read in Dryden's prologue to "Almanzor and Almahide":-- + + "But as when vizard mask appears in pit, + Straight every man who thinks himself a wit + Perks up, and, managing a comb with grace, + With his white wig sets off his nut-brown face." + +Says Congreve, in the "Way of the World":-- + + "The gentlemen stay but to comb, madam, and will wait on you." + +[Illustration: Man with Wig and Muff, 1693 (_from a print of the +period_).] + +Thomas Brown, in his "Letters from the Dead to the Living," presents a +pen-portrait of beaux as they appeared at the commencement of the +eighteenth century. Some of the passages are well worth reproducing, as +they contain valuable information concerning wigs. "We met," says the +writer, "three flaming beaux of the first magnitude. He in the middle +made a most magnificent figure--his periwig was large enough to have +loaded a camel, and he bestowed upon it at least a bushel of powder, I +warrant you. His sword-knot dangled upon the ground, and his steinkirk, +that was most agreeably discoloured with snuff from the top to the +bottom, reach'd down to his waist; he carry'd his hat under his left +arm, walk'd with both hands in the waistband of his breeches, and his +cane, that hung negligently down in a string from his right arm, +trail'd most harmoniously against the pebbles, while the master of it +was tripping it nicely upon his toes or humming to himself." About this +period in cold weather men wore muffs as well as wigs. A ballad, +describing the frost fair on the Thames in the winter of 1683-84, +mentions amongst those present:-- + + "A spark of the Bar with his cane and his muff." + +[Illustration: Campaign Wig.] + +Down to the middle of the eighteenth century wigs continued to increase +in size. It will not now be without interest to direct attention to a +few of the many styles of wigs. Randle Holme, in his "Academy of +Armory," published in 1684, has some interesting illustrations, and we +will draw upon him for a couple of pictures. Our first example is called +the campaign-wig. He says it "hath knobs or bobs, or dildo, on each +side, with a curled forehead." This is not so cumbrous as a periwig we +have noticed. Another example from Holme is a smaller style of periwig +with tail, and from this wig doubtless originated the familiar pig-tail. +It was of various forms, and Swift says:-- + + "We who wear our wigs + With fantail and with snake." + +[Illustration: Periwig with Tail.] + +A third example given by Holme is named the "short-bob," and is a plain +peruke, imitating a natural head of hair. "Perukes," says Malcolm, in +his "Manners and Customs," "were an highly important article in 1734. +Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle +ties, three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five +shillings. Right gray human hair, cue perukes, from two guineas; white, +fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right gray +bob perukes, two guineas and a half; fifteen shillings was the price of +dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be +observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in +fashion, and dark of no estimation." As time ran its course, wigs became +more varied in form, and bore different names. + +[Illustration: Ramillie Wig.] + +We find in the days of Queen Anne such designations as black +riding-wigs, bag-wigs, and nightcap-wigs. These were in addition to the +long, formally curled perukes. In 1706 the English, led by Marlborough, +gained a great victory on the battlefield of Ramillies, and that gave +the title to a long wig described as "having a long, gradually +diminishing, plaited tail, called the 'Ramillie-tail,' which was tied +with a great bow at the top, and a smaller one at the bottom." It was +at the great battle fought before the town of Ramillies that France lost +the whole Spanish Netherlands, and Europe gained a wig from the vanity +of Louis XIV., of whom Thackeray irreverently speaks in his "Henry +Esmond," as "a little, wrinkled old man, pock-marked, and with a great +periwig and red heels." Lord Lyttelton in his letters thus refers to the +French king: "Louis XIV. annexed great dignity to his peruke, which he +increased to an enormous size, and made a lion's mane the object of its +similitude. That monarch, who daily studied the part of a king, was +never seen uncovered but by the barber who shaved him. It was not his +practice to exchange his wig for a nightcap till he was enclosed by his +curtains, when a page received the former from his hand and delivered it +to him in the morning before he undrew them. The figure of the great +Bourbon must at times have been truly ridiculous." It is stated in +Read's _Weekly Journal_ of May 1st, 1736, in a report of the marriage of +the Prince of Wales, that "the officers of the Horse and Foot Guards +wore Ramillie periwigs by His Majesty's order." This wig survived until +the days of George III. We meet, in the reign of George II., other forms +of the wig, and more titles for them; the most popular, perhaps, was +the pig-tail. The pig-tails were worn hanging down the back, or tied up +in a knot behind as shown in our illustration. This form of wig was +popular in the army, but in 1804 orders were given for it to be reduced +to seven inches in length, and finally, in 1808, to be cut off. It is +recorded that when the Reform Bill of 1832 received the Royal assent, +the Lord Bathurst of the period solemnly cut off his pig-tail, saying, +"Ichabod, for the glory was departed." + +[Illustration: Pig-tail Wig.] + +In the first reformed Parliament only one pig-tail was returned, and +that was Mr Sheppard, M.P. for Frome. + +[Illustration: Bag-Wig.] + +Here is a picture of an ordinary man; by no means can he be regarded as +a beau. He is wearing a common bag-wig, dating back to about the middle +of the eighteenth century. The style is modified to suit an individual +taste, and for one who did not follow the extreme fashion of his time. +In this example may be observed the sausage curls over the ear, and the +frizziness over the forehead. + +We have directed attention to the large periwigs, and given a portrait +of the Earl of Albemarle wearing one. In the picture of the House of +Commons in the time of Sir Robert Walpole we get an excellent indication +of how popular the periwig was amongst the lawmakers of the land. +Farquhar, in a comedy called "Love and a Bottle," brought out in 1698, +says, "A full wig is imagined to be as infallible a token of wit as the +laurel." + +Tillotson is usually regarded as the first amongst the English clergy to +adopt the wig. He said in one of his sermons: "I can remember since the +wearing of hair below the ears was looked upon as a sin of the first +magnitude, and when ministers generally, whatever their text was, did +either find or make occasion to reprove the great sin of long hair; and +if they saw any one in the congregation guilty in that kind, they would +point him out particularly, and let fly at him with great zeal." Dr +Tillotson died on November 24th, 1694. Wigs found favour with parsons, +and in course of time they appear to have been indispensable. A volume, +in 1765, was issued under the title of "Free Advice to a Young +Clergyman," from the pen of the Rev. John Chubbe, in which he +recommended the young preacher always to wear a full wig until age had +made his own hair respectable. Dr Randolph, on his advancement to the +bishopric, presumed to wait upon George IV. to kiss hands without +wearing a wig. This could not be overlooked by the king, and he said, +"My lord, you must have a wig." Bishops wore wigs until the days of +William IV. Bishop Blomfield is said to have been the first bishop to +set the example of wearing his own hair. Even as late as 1858, at the +marriage of the Princess Royal of England, Archbishop Sumner appeared in +his wig. + +Medical men kept up the custom of wearing wigs for a long period: +perhaps they felt like a character in Fielding's farce, "The Mock +Doctor," who exclaims, "I must have a physician's habit, for a physician +can no more prescribe without a full wig than without a fee." The wig +known as the full-bottomed wig was worn by the medical profession:-- + + "Physic of old her entry made + Beneath the immense, full-bottom'd shade; + While the gilt cane, with solemn pride + To each suspicious nose applied, + Seemed but a necessary prop + To bear the weight of wig at top." + +We are told Dr Delmahoy's wig was particularly celebrated in a song +which commenced:-- + + "If you would see a noble wig, + And in that wig a man look big, + To Ludgate Hill repair, my boy, + And gaze on Dr Delmahoy." + +In the middle of the last century so much importance was attached to +this portion of a medical man's costume, that Dr Brocklesby's barber was +in the habit of carrying a bandbox through the High Change, exclaiming: +"Make way for Dr Brocklesby's wig!" + +Professional wigs are now confined to the Speaker in the House of +Commons, who, when in the chair, wears a full-bottomed one, and to +judges and barristers. Such wigs are made of horse-hair, cleaned and +curled with care, and woven on silk threads, and shaped to fit the head +with exactness. The cost of a barrister's wig of frizzed hair is from +five to six guineas. + +An eminent counsel in years agone wished to make a motion before Judge +Cockburn, and in his hurry appeared without a wig. "I hear your voice," +sternly said his Lordship, "but I cannot see you." The barrister had to +obtain the loan of a wig from a learned friend before the judge would +listen to him. + +Lord Eldon suffered much from headache, and when he was raised to the +peerage he petitioned the king to allow him to dispense with the wig. He +was refused, his Majesty saying he could not permit such an innovation. +In vain did his lordship show that the wig was an innovation, as the old +judges did not wear them. "True," said the king; "the old judges wore +beards." + +In more recent times we have particulars of several instances of both +bench and bar discarding the use of the wig. At the Summer Assizes at +Lancaster, in 1819, a barrister named Mr Scarlett hurried into court, +and was permitted to take part in a trial without his wig and gown. Next +day the whole of the members of the bar appeared without their +professional badges, but only on this occasion, although on the previous +day a hope had been expressed that the time was not far distant when the +mummeries of costume would be entirely discarded. + +We learn from a report in the _Times_ of July 24th, 1868, that on +account of the unprecedented heat of the weather on the day before, in +the Court of Probate and Divorce the learned judge and bar appeared +without wigs. + +On July 22nd, 1873, it is recorded that Dr Kenealy rose to open the case +for the defence in the Tichborne suit; he sought and obtained permission +to remove his wig on account of the excessive heat. + +Towards the close of the eighteenth century few were the young men at +the Universities who ventured to wear their own hair, and such as did +were designated Apollos. Women, as well as men, called into requisition, +to add to their charms, artificial accessories in the form of wigs and +curls. Ladies' hair was curled and frizzed with considerable care, and +frequently false curls were worn under the name of heart-breakers. It +will be seen from the illustration we give that these curls increased +the beauty of a pretty face. + +Queen Elizabeth, we gather from Hentzner and other authorities, wore +false hair. We are told that ladies, in compliment to her, dyed their +hair a sandy hue, the natural colour of the queen's locks. + +[Illustration: Heart-Breakers.] + +It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots obtained wigs from Edinburgh not +merely while in Scotland, but during her long and weary captivity in +England. From "The True Report of the Last Moments of Mary Stuart," it +appears that when the executioner lifted the head by the hair to show it +to the spectators, it fell from his hands owing to the hair being +false. + +We have previously mentioned Pepys' allusions to women and wigs in 1666. +Coming down to later times, we read in the _Whitehall Evening Post_ of +August 17th, 1727, that when the King, George II., reviewed the Guards, +the three eldest Princesses "went to Richmond in riding habits, with +hats, and feathers, and periwigs." + +[Illustration: With and Without a Wig.] + +It will be seen from the picture of a person with and without a wig that +its use made a plain face presentable. There is a good election story of +Daniel O'Connell. It is related during a fierce debate on the hustings, +O'Connell with his biting witty tongue, attacked his opponent on account +of his ill-favoured countenance. But, not to be outdone, and thinking +to turn the gathering against O'Connell, his adversary called out, "Take +off your wig, and I'll warrant that you'll prove the uglier." The witty +Irishman immediately responded, amidst roars of laughter from the crowd, +by snatching the wig from off his own head and exposing to view a bald +pate, destitute of a single hair. The relative question of beauty was +scarcely settled by this amusing rejoinder, but the laugh was certainly +on O'Connell's side. + +An interesting tale is told of Peter the Great of Russia. In the year +1716, the famous Emperor was at Dantzig, taking part in a public +ceremony, and feeling his head somewhat cold, he stretched out his hand, +and seizing the wig from the head of the burgomaster sitting below him, +he placed it on his own regal head. The surprise of the spectators may +be better imagined than described. On the Czar returning the wig, his +attendants explained that his Majesty was in the habit of borrowing the +wig of any nobleman within reach on similar occasions. His Majesty, it +may be added, was short of hair. + +Wigs were not confined to men. At the commencement of the eighteenth +century little boys attended school in wigs and cocked hats. "Had I +lived in the reign of good Queen Anne," wrote Lord Lyttelton, "my baby +face must have been adorned with a full-bottomed periwig as large as +that which bedecks the head and shoulders of Mr Justice Blackstone when +he scowls at the unhappy culprit who is arraigned before him." We learn +from Miss Agnes Strickland that "Marie Antoinette was the first person +who broke the absurd fashion of dressing infant boys as droll miniatures +of their fathers. She attired the unfortunate Dauphin in a simple blue +jacket and trousers, for which she was reviled, as if little bag-wigs +and tiny cocked-hats, and all the paraphernalia of full dress, had been +points of moral obligation. There are noblemen yet in existence," she +says, when writing her history, "who can remember, at six years old, +joining the juvenile parties given by George III. and Queen Charlotte, +dressed after the models of their fathers' court costumes, with powdered +side-curls, single-breasted coat, knee-buckles, and shoe-buckles." + +It will not be without interest to give a picture of a full-bottomed +wig, and we select as an example the one worn by the great Lord +Mansfield. It was made by Mr Williams, a noted barber in his day, who +had among his patrons many famous men, including Dr Samuel Johnson, but +he prided himself most on making the full state wig for Lord Mansfield, +and the one which is represented on his imposing monument in Westminster +Abbey. After the famous lawyer had been laid to rest, the wig which is +represented on his monument was the subject of a very odd litigation, +which was fully reported in the _Times_ for 1823. An action, it is +stated, was brought by Mr Williams, a barber, against Mr Lawrence, to +recover Lord Mansfield's full state wig, which had again come into the +possession of the perruquier after the death of his lordship. The wig +had been graciously lent by the barber to one Lawrence, belonging to the +legal profession, but also an amateur actor. In this wig, we are told, +he proposed to disport himself in the character of Shylock. The +plaintiff could not get it back again, and brought the action for its +recovery. The wig had been accidentally burnt, and the judge awarded the +plaintiff the sum of L2 as a compensation for the loss of the relic. + +[Illustration: Lord Mansfield.] + + + + +STEALING WIGS + + +[Illustration: Stealing a Wig.] + +In the palmy days of wigs the price of a full-wig of an English +gentleman was from thirty to forty guineas. Street quarrels in the olden +time were by no means uncommon; care had to be exercised that wigs were +not lost. Swift says:-- + + "Triumphing Tories and desponding Whigs, + Forget their feuds, and join to save their wigs." + +Although precautions were taken to prevent wigs being stolen, we are +told that robberies were frequently committed. Sam Rogers thus describes +a successful mode of operation: "A boy was carried covered over in a +butcher's tray by a tall man, and the wig was twisted off in a moment by +the boy. The bewildered owner looked all round for it, when an +accomplice impeded his progress under the pretence of assisting him +while the tray-bearer made off." Gay, in _Trivia_, thus writes:-- + + "Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn: + High on the shoulders in a basket borne + Lurks the sly boy, whose hand, to rapine bred, + Plucks off the curling honours of thy head." + + + + +THE WIG-MAKERS' RIOT + + +On February 11th, 1765, a curious spectacle was witnessed in the streets +of London, and one which caused some amusement. Fashion had changed; the +peruke was no longer in favour, and only worn to a limited extent. A +large number of peruke-makers had been thrown out of employment, and +distress prevailed amongst them. The sufferers thought that help might +be obtained from George III., and a petition was accordingly drawn up +for the enforcement of gentlefolk to wear wigs for the benefit of the +wig-makers. A procession was formed, and waited upon the king at St +James's Palace. His Majesty, it is said, returned a gracious answer, but +it must have cost him considerable effort to maintain his gravity. + +Besides the monarch, the unemployed had to encounter the men of the +metropolis, and we learn from a report of the period they did not fare +so well. "As the distressed men went processionally through the town," +says the account, "it was observed that most of the wig-makers, who +wanted other people to wear them, wore no wigs themselves; and this +striking the London mob as something monstrously unfair and +inconsistent, they seized the petitioners, and cut off all their hair +per force." + +Horace Walpole alludes to this ludicrous petition in one of his letters. +"Should we wonder," he writes, "if carpenters were to remonstrate that +since the Peace there is no demand for wooden legs?" The wags of the +period could not allow the opportunity to pass without attempting to +provoke more mirth out of the matter, and a petition was published +purporting to come from the body-carpenters imploring his Majesty to +wear a wooden leg, and to enjoin his servants to appear in his royal +presence with the same graceful decoration. + + + + +THE MOUSTACHE MOVEMENT + + +At the present time, when moustaches are general, it is difficult to +realise the opposition raised against them in this country half a +century ago. Few outside the military had the courage to follow a +fashion which has become general. In the first year of the reign of +Queen Victoria, we gather from the police court proceedings at +Marlborough Street, London, how unpopular at that period was the +moustache. The following Report is drawn from the _Times_ of September +21st, 1837: "Yesterday, a young man, 'bearded like the pard,' who said +he was a carpenter employed on the London and Birmingham Railroad, +applied to Mr Rawlinson, the sitting magistrate, for an assault warrant, +under the following ludicrous circumstances. + +"Mr Rawlinson: What do you want a warrant for? + +"Applicant: I'll tell your worship, and you'll say it's the most +haggrawating, and provoking thing as ever was heard on. Vell then, I +goes to my vork, as usual, this 'ere morning, ven one of my shopmates +said to me, 'Bill, you arn't shaved your hupper lip lately,' says I. +'Vy,' says he 'Cos,' I replied, 'I intends vearing mustachios to look +like a gentleman,' 'Vell, then,' says he, 'as you intends to become a +fashionable gentleman, p'raps you'll have no objection to forfeit +half-a-gallon of ale, as it's the rule here that every workman vot +sports mustachios, to have them vetted a bit.' Vell, has I refused to +have my mustachios christened, they made game of them, and said they +weren't half fledged; and, more nor all that, they hustled me about, and +stole my dinner out of the pot, and treated me shameful, and so I want +your advice respecting my mustachios. + +"Mr Rawlinson: My advice is, go to the barber and have them shaved off +without loss of time. + +"Applicant: Can't part with a single hair. + +"Mr Rawlinson: You want to look like a grenadier, I suppose? + +"Applicant: My granny-dear (God bless her dear old soul!), she never had +such a fashionable and warlike appendage in her life. + +"Mr Rawlinson: What business has a carpenter with a quantity of long +hair hanging from his lip? + +"Applicant: The reason vy I rears it is 'cos it's fashionable, and makes +me look like a man of some courage. + +"Mr Rawlinson: Fashionable, indeed! I wish, with all my heart, that the +fashion was discontinued. Why need an Englishman make a Jew of himself? +It is disgusting to see persons strutting through the streets with +mustachios, and sometimes a fringe of hair round the face and chin, +which is dignified by the name of whiskers. As you won't take my advice, +I can't assist you. + +"Applicant: Vot! not for striking me on the hupper lip? + +"Mr Rawlinson: Then your moustachios must have saved you. + +"Applicant: No, they didn't. + +"Mr Rawlinson: How's that? + +"Applicant: 'Cos the hair ain't long and thick enough; they're only +young 'uns as yet. There was no occasion to strike me. + +"Mr Rawlinson: And there's no occasion for you to wear mustachios. You +may have a warrant if you like, but I think you had better not." + +"The man with the mustachios then withdrew." + +About 1855 the beard movement took hold of Englishmen. The Crimean War +had much to do with it, as our soldiers were permitted to forego the use +of the razor as the hair on the face protected them from the cold and +attacks of neuralgia. About this period only one civilian of position in +England had the hardihood to wear the moustache. He was Mr George +Frederick Muntz, a member of Parliament for Birmingham. He was a notable +figure in the House of Commons, and is described as manly in appearance, +with a handsome face, a huge black beard, and moustache. He died 30th +July, 1857, and is regarded as the father of the modern moustache +movement. Another early moustache member was Colonel Sibthorp, the +representative for Lincoln, who bore Mr Muntz company for some time in +the House of Commons. Daniel O'Connell wrote a biting epigram on +Colonels Sibthorp, Percival, and Verner, the first of whom was +remarkable for his length of beard, whilst the others had none:-- + + Three Colonels, in three distant counties born, + Lincoln, Armagh, and Sligo did adorn. + The first in matchless impudence surpass'd, + The next in bigotry, in both the last, + The force of nature could no further go, + To beard the first she shaved the other two. + +It will be noticed that the foregoing is a parody on Dryden's celebrated +tribute to Milton. + +[Illustration: George Frederick Muntz, M.P.] + +The enlightened electors, however, did not take kindly to the bearded +politician. It is related by Dr Hedderwick, the well-known Glasgow +journalist, that at the time the moustache movement was making slow +progress, the candidate for Linlithgowshire was an officer in the +Lancers, a man of ability, family, and fashion, who wore a heavily +hirsute upper lip. He received an intimation from a leader of his party +that his moustache might prejudice him in the eyes of a rural +population. The candidate replied that he had already considered the +point, but it was the rule in his regiment that it would be cowardly to +succumb, and that he was "determined to face it out." + +We have it on good authority that a Cabinet Minister, about 1855, caused +a gentleman to be told that the beard and moustache did not look well on +a man holding a civic position under the Crown. This Minister did not +then imagine that shortly men with beards and moustaches would sit by +his side as members of the Cabinet. Even a Colonial Governor about half +a century ago was not supposed to wear a moustache. Dr Hedderwick, in +his "Backward Glances" (Edinburgh, 1891), tells us that on a certain +Sunday he was rambling with his friend, Mr Charles Maclaren, the +well-known editor of the _Scotsman_, to Loch Long, when he saw some +carriages conveying a number of ladies and gentlemen to church. "Sitting +obliquely on an Irish jaunting-car," says the doctor, "was a portly +personage with a dark heavy fringe on his upper lip, and otherwise +distinguished appearance. I suggested that it might be Sir Henry +Pottinger, the celebrated diplomatist and Colonial Governor. We knew he +had returned to England, and I had heard he was visiting in Scotland on +the banks of Loch Long. 'No, no,' said Mr Maclaren, 'it's quite +impossible it can be he. A civilian of great intelligence and sense +would never wear a moustache.'" We may gather from the foregoing the +prejudice of the period against facial adornments. + +From about 1855 to some years afterwards we resided at the small town of +Alfreton, Derbyshire, where, if by chance the boys saw a man with a +moustache, with one accord they commenced calling after him, "Jew, Jew, +Jew," or "Frenchy, Frenchy, Frenchy," and, if that did not make any +impression, they commenced stoning the offender against the unwritten +laws of the land. In later years our barber at Wakefield was somewhat of +a dandy, and would, perhaps, have preferred being called a tonsorial +artist. He was the first to cultivate a moustache in that West Riding +town, and he told the writer with pride that in those distant days he +was one of the sights of the place, but his vanity had many checks from +the rough lads, and even men, of Wakefield. Before his death he saw many +follow his lead. + +A teacher of music was the first to wear a moustache in Nottingham. He +attracted the attention of young and old, and was deemed a great +curiosity. The younger generation made matters lively for the music +master. Speaking on this theme to an old Nottinghamshire friend, with +whom we often discuss olden days and ways, he stated to us how he won +his wife because he had not a moustache. It appears another eligible +young man was anxious to win the young lady, but his character was +regarded as doubtful because he cultivated a moustache. After a short +engagement our friend was married in the year 1855. At this period the +moustache movement was making slow progress in Nottingham. + +Mr W.P. Frith, R.A., published in 1887 an amusing "Autobiography," and +devotes not the least attractive chapter of his work to "The Bearded +Model." He relates how difficult it was to find a bearded model, and how +at last he discovered one. He says that in crossing Soho Square one day +his attention was drawn to a crowd of little boys, who seemed to be +teasing an old man in the manner of the London street boy. "Why don't +you get your 'air cut?" said one. "Yah! where's your bundle of old +clothes? Yer ain't got 'em in that 'ere basket, 'ave you?" said another, +"Let's 'ave a look. You're a Jew, you know; now, ain't you?" and so on. +All this, observes the artist, because the old man wore a long grey +beard, then such a rarity. The young gentlemen had mistaken their man. +He soundly punished two elder boys, and Mr Frith found he was not a Jew. +How he became a model does not come within the scope of our present +studies. + +Mr Frith says that the head of a well-known firm of drapers in Regent +Street refused to employ shopmen who wore moustaches, or men who parted +their hair down the middle. In days before the moustache was popular, Mr +Frith shows how even in art circles its adoption retarded progress. "I +well remember," says Mr Frith, "a book illustrator named Stuart, who, +according to his own notion, ought to have been on the throne of England +instead of drawing on insensible wood blocks. He could trace his descent +from James I. He could sing Jacobite songs, and very well, too, and he +was certainly like Charles I. There was not the least doubt about his +pedigree in his own mind; and he was such a nuisance when once launched +into the long list of Royal blood, that we declared our unanimous +conviction of the justice of his claims, and implored him to put them +forward in the proper quarter, as we were powerless in the matter. The +Stuart beard, exactly like the Vandyke portrait of Charles, was the +treasured ornament of our friend's face, and though he was assured that +the publishers felt such doubt of his abilities, and such a conviction +of his utterly unreliable character and general dishonesty in +consequence of his beard--one man going so far as to tell him it cost +him L200 a year--he refused to remove it." Mr Frith says when the +Vandyke beard became white his poor friend would have died in extreme +poverty had he not received well-deserved assistance from a fund +established to meet cases like his. + +The directors and managers of banks made a stand against the moustache +movement. It is asserted that the authorities of the Bank of England +issued an order "that the clerks were not to wear moustaches during +business hours." It is not surprising to learn that the amusing order +was soon cancelled. At the present time, at one of the great banks in +the Strand, the clerks have to be clean shaven. To illustrate the rigid +manner of enforcing the order, Mr Frith quotes the case of an old +servant of the bank, who was severely attacked by erysipelas in the face +and head. Even after convalescence the tenderness of the skin made +shaving impossible, but the old clerk begged to be allowed to return to +his desk. He was told by one of the principals, in a kind note in answer +to his application, that the bank would endeavour to get on without him +until his face was in a condition to bear the attention of his razor. + +In the earlier years of the moustache movement, clerks might be +dismissed for not being clean shaven. Contractors, as a rule, we should +regard as being the least particular of any class of employers about +the personal appearance of their servants. Yet we have it on reliable +authority that a trusted superintendent of one of the great contractors +served the firm in Russia, and there cultivated the beard and moustache. +On his return to England he displayed no disposition to resume the use +of the razor. The head contractor grew alarmed at the terrible example +he was setting those engaged in the office, and insisted that the +adornment should be cut off, which was done. The poor fellow caught +cold, and in a few days died. + +[Illustration: Charles Dickens, born 1812, died 1870.] + +An important firm of timber merchants in Hull made it a condition that +any clerks employed by them should be clean shaven. This rule was +strictly enforced until the firm closed its career a few years ago. + +Mr Serjeant Robinson, in his interesting and informing volume, "Bench +and Bar Reminiscences" (London, 1889), deals with the legal aspect of +our theme. He says for many years anterior to 1860 scarcely a beard, and +certainly not even a downy symptom of a moustache, was to be seen on the +face of a practising barrister. Towards the close of the first half of +the nineteenth century a quiet, gentlemanly, well-informed barrister, +named Brierley, used to attend the Central Criminal Court, wearing a +long flowing beard and a thick moustache. These hirsute adornments gave +offence to the leaders who regularly attended the sessions. No other +exception could be taken to him. A meeting of the senior Bar was held, +and he was summoned to attend. He was called upon to defend his action. +Instead of denying the jurisdiction of the tribunal that was to judge +him, he recognised the enormity of his crime, and excused himself on the +ground of a serious affection of the throat, and stated that it was +under urgent medical advice that he was induced to transgress the +unwritten ordinances of the Bar. Despite the reasonableness of the plea, +a small majority passed upon him a vote of censure for subjecting the +Bar to general ridicule by his extravagant physiognomy. "This was," says +Mr Serjeant Robinson, "the worst that could befall him, for of course he +could not be prevented from coming within the sacred precincts of the +court, nor from taking his seat at the Bar table. The only means of +carrying out the resolution was by sending him to Coventry. But he did +not give them the opportunity of executing it, for he seldom appeared +afterwards. It is not known what became of this barrister after he had +been driven from practising his profession in the courts." + +Several old laws regulated wearing the beard in the bygone times. In the +reign of Queen Elizabeth a decree went forth that no barrister should +appear in court with a beard of more than a fortnight's growth. + +Barristers with beards and moustaches are not much less common at the +present time than those without them. This is no doubt the result of the +martial order which passed over the country at the introduction of the +Volunteer movement. The moustache was regarded as indispensable to the +military appearance of the citizen soldier. + +Old illustrated books relating to the worthies of the Church often +contain portraits of divines with flowing beards and moustaches. In +modern times the cultivation of these adornments of the face has given +rise to not a little discussion in Church circles. Early in 1861 the +newspapers criticised the charge of the Bishop of Rochester, which +included a denunciation of the development of beards and moustaches +among the clergymen of his diocese. The writing in the press for and +against the facial adornment had little point, but it gave rise to more +than one book dealing with the subject. An author issued "An Apology +for the Beard; addressed to men in general, and to the clergy in +particular" (London, 1862). The Bible and other books are quoted against +shaving. James Ward, R.A., the celebrated animal painter, produced in +book form a "Defence of the Beard." He dealt with his subject on +scriptural grounds, and gave eighteen reasons why man was bound to grow +a beard unless he was indifferent as to offending his Creator and good +taste. Mr. Ward asked, "What would a Jupiter be without a beard? Who +would countenance the idea of a shaved Christ?" The artist set an +example to others by adopting the beard when it was not popular. On the +title-page of another work was declared: "A Breach of the Sabbath, and a +Hindrance to the Spread of the Gospel." The writer designated himself +"Theologos." If his views were carried out, it would lead to the +practice which prevailed among the Essenes, who never did on the Sabbath +anything that was customary for them to do on other days. The High +Church clergymen use the razor, and as a rule the moustache is +discarded. For some time not a few of the clergy in the lower ranks +joined the moustache movement, but it was not until 1889 that a bishop +was included. The late Bishop Ryle, of Liverpool, was the first to give +up in modern times the use of the razor. Quite a sensation was caused +towards the close of 1892 when it became known that the Archbishop of +York did not approve of the moustache among his clergy. In several +quarters the barber was visited, and the cherished moustache and beard +swept away, it is said, to please the head of the Church in the Northern +Province. Not so with a moustached candidate for Orders from Hull. He +had been spending two or three days at Bishopthorpe before ordination, +but gentle hints failed to induce him to make a clean shave. As a final +effort the chaplain of the Archbishop asked him if he thought it was not +time he cut off his moustache. He replied that he did not think of doing +so, and asked why he should. "Well," said the chaplain, "you see the +saints in the stained glass windows have not any moustaches." "That may +be so," said the candidate, "but as I am not intended to be a saint and +stuck in a window, I mean my moustache to remain." + +Speaking at a reunion of the Leeds Clergy School held on June 6th, 1899, +Dr Eden, the Bishop of Wakefield, said he recently noticed a paragraph +in the newspapers which said that the Bishop of Wakefield had given it +out that he was very much against the clergy wearing moustaches. "After +a little while this legend increased in definiteness, and the next +paragraph I saw was that the Bishop of Wakefield had 'commanded' the +curates of his diocese to shave clean. A little while after that I took +up a London paper, and I saw it stated: 'The Bishop of Wakefield has +joined the anti-moustache brigade, and we believe he has the sympathy of +His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.' I waited a little longer, for I +felt sure something more would come, and then I took up another paper +and found that an exceedingly respected Prebendary of St Paul's in +London had been uttering remarks, either in public or to the +reporters--I don't know which--in which he held up the Bishop of +Wakefield as being one of those foolish people who had largely exceeded +their episcopal powers. I was given a very round lecture upon the +contrast of my conduct with that of my predecessor, who would never have +thought of issuing such a foolish order to the curates to shave their +moustaches. The curates were recommended to do nothing of the kind, but +a fear was expressed that a large number of them would probably comply +with the demand. Still that was not quite the end of the legend; I had +of course a great deal of private correspondence arising out of this +newspaper paragraph, but only the other day I heard--I have not seen +it--that a cartoon has appeared in a London paper in which the Bishop of +Wakefield is represented with a drawn razor in his hand in full cry +after a Wakefield curate with a moustache. That is a very good example +of finding the truth about yourselves in the newspapers, for I have the +most astounding fact of all to tell you, and that is that I have never +said a single word about moustaches from first to last. I knew you would +forgive me making this little personal reference because it is not +personal to myself and to many of those in this tent." + +A former Bishop of Wakefield, Dr Walsham How, related a good story. "The +vicar of an East London parish," said the bishop, "was one of the first +London clergymen to grow his beard. The then Bishop of London wished to +stop the practice, and, as he was going to confirm in that church, sent +his chaplain to the vicar to ask him to shave it off, saying he should +otherwise select another church for the Confirmation. The vicar replied +that he was quite willing to take his candidates to another church, and +would give out next Sunday the reason for the change. Of course the +bishop retracted." + +We are told in the "Life of R.W. Dale" (London, 1898) that this famous +Birmingham preacher, about 1860, was clean shaven, but with "long black +hair that hung over his cheeks and ears like a mane." In a year or two +it was cut short. He then let his beard grow, and, after some +hesitation, his moustache. Many of the older people, we are told, were +scandalised, but remained silent; some wrote to the newspapers in +protest. The moustache was declared to invest ministers "with an air of +levity and worldliness." A letter of approval purported to come from +the shade of a Wesleyan minister, the Rev. H.D. Lowe, who, in 1828, had +his beard cut off by order of the Wesleyan Conference. It ran as +follows:-- + + "REVEREND AND BEARDED SIR,--It rejoiced my shade to see + you not only addressing Methodists, but sitting among many of the + identical men who required that cruel sacrifice of me, and that + unrebuked when you even spoke of dreaming of belonging to the + 'Legal Hundred,' bearded though you are." + +Professor Hodgson used to tell a good story of a shaky village knight of +the razor who gashed the minister's cheek. "John, John!" cried the +reverend sufferer, "it's a dreadful thing that drink!" "'Deed it is, +sir," mildly assented John, "it makes the skin unco tender." + +The electors of Hull, who returned to Parliament Sir Henry Vane the +younger, Andrew Marvell, the patriot, and in later times, William +Wilberforce, the emancipator of the slave, have never, as might be +readily believed, been backward in adopting reasonable measures of +reform. On December 1st, 1859, at the Hull Watch Sub-Committee, it was +moved by Mr Moss, seconded by Mr Clarke, and carried unanimously: "That +it be a recommendation to the Watch Committee to permit the police to +wear a beard and moustache if they think fit." A week later, namely, on +December 7th, at the Watch Committee, it was moved by Mr Mayfield, and +seconded by Mr Fountain: "That a resolution of the Sub-Committee of +December 1st, granting permission to police to wear the beard and +moustache, if they think fit, be confirmed by this Committee." It was +pointed out by one of the members of the Council, who was advocating the +passing of the resolution, that it would give a "fierce appearance to +the police." + +In course of time the leading gentlemen of the land adopted the +moustache, and those in the lower walks of life were not slow to follow +their example, the result being that it is worn now by all sorts and +conditions of men. + +The moustache figures in recent wills. In 1862, one made by Henry Budd +came into force, and declared as follows against the wearing of +moustaches by his sons in the following terms: "In case my son Edward +shall wear moustaches, the devise herein before contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called Pepper +Park, shall be void; and I devise the same estate to my son William, his +appointees, heirs, and assigns. And in case my said son William shall +wear moustaches, then the devise hereinbefore contained in favour of +him, his appointees, heirs, and assigns of my said estate, called +Twickenham Park, shall be void; and I devise the said estate to my said +son Edward, his appointees, heirs, and assigns." + +Mr Fleming, an upholsterer, of Pimlico, by his will, proved in 1869, +left L10 each to the men in his employ who did not wear moustaches, and +to those who persisted in wearing them, L5 only. + +In the daily newspapers of July 11th, 1901, it was stated: "French +motor-car owners having shown a disposition to make their chauffeurs +shave, the latter combined in defence of their moustaches, which they +declare to be a sanitary protection." + + + + +INDEX + + +Absalom, 7, 8 +Age of wigs, 71-93 +Agrarian law repealed, 48 +Albemarle, Earl of, 78 +---- Duchess of, 17 +Alexander III., Pope, forbids clergy to act as surgeons, 27 +Alfreton, 102 +Anne, Queen, 82 +Assyrian sculptures, 72 +"_Antiquarian Repertory_," quoted, 2 +"_Athenian Oracle_," quoted, 1 +Aubrey, quoted, 17, 54 + +Bag-wig, 84 +Bakewell, Derbyshire, epitaph from, 32 +Ballad of the Beard, 41-44 +Banks, Mrs G. Linnaeus, quoted, 67 +Banks and the moustache, 105 +Bar and the moustache, 107 +Barber-surgeon, antiquity of, 26 +Barber's pole, 1-8 +Barber's shop, 8-24 +Barbers and surgeons, laws relating to their work, 28 +---- separate, 31 +Barbers' Company, first Master of the, 27 +Barnard Castle, 18 +Barristers without wigs, 88 +Bathurst, Lord, cuts off his pig-tail, 84 +Bayeux tapestry, 34 +Beard protection against neuralgia, 99 +Beardie Scott, 47 +Beardless Britons, 33 +Bible, quoted, 33 +Bleeding at Northallerton, 31 +Blomfield, Bishop, 86 +Boxing the beard, 56 +Brand's "Popular Antiquities," 5 +_British Apollo_, quoted, 6 +Britons, 33 +Bronte, Rev. P., story about, 25, 26 +Bygone beards, 33-56 + +Campaign wig, 81 +Canterbury, Sheriff of, 36 +Cavaliers, 44 +Chair, barber's, 14 +Charles I., 38, 44, 48 +---- II., 25 +Charlotte, Queen, 66 +Chaucer, quoted, 52 +Chester barber-surgeons, 23 +Church denounces wigs, 73 +---- denounces moustache, 108 +Churchyards, barbers shave in, 21, 23 +Clergy caring for men's bodies and souls, 26 +Cloth of gold, 55 +Cockburn, Judge, 87 +Combing the wig, 79 +Congreve, 79 +"_Comenii Orbis Pictus_," quoted, 2 +Comenius, Bishop, 2 +Contractors and the moustache, 105 +Cox, Rev. Dr J.C., quoted, 70 +Crimean War, 99 +Crop clubs, 64 +Curing a joking duke, 18 +Cyprus customs, 50 + +Dale, R.W., 112 +Defence of the beard, 109 +Delmahoy's wig, 86 +Demanding the beard, 51 +Desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24, 25 +Disuse of hair powder, 69 +Doran, Dr, quoted, 73 +Drapers refuse to employ men with moustaches, 104 +Drury Lane, five women barbers of, 17 +Dryden, quoted, 79 +Duke and barber's boy, 18 +Dyeing the beard, 37 + +Earliest mention of the beard, 33 +Early gild in London, 27 +Eastern potentate, 35 +Eden, Dr, and the moustache, 110 +Egyptian wigs, 71 +Eldon, Lord, 87 +Elizabeth, Queen, 37, 38 +Epigram on three colonels, 100 +Epitaphs on barber-surgeons, 32 + +Fairholt, F.W., 41 +False hair worn by women, 88 +Farquhar, 20 +Female follies, 61 +Fined for wearing beards, 35, 36 +First illustrated school book, 2 +Forfeits, 14-16 +Fox, C.J., 64 +France, wig mania in, 75 +Free advice to a young clergyman, 85 +Frith, W.P., "Autobiography" quoted, 103 +From barber to surgeon, 26-32 +Frost fair, 81 + +Gallants, gathering of, 9 +Galley-pot, 5 +Garrick, 14 +Gauls, 60 +Gay, J., quoted, 13, 61, 95 +_Gentleman's Magazine_, quoted, 62 +George III. and wig-makers, 95 +---- sets his subjects a good example, 69 +---- IV. and Dr Randolph, 86 +Gold-dust used as hair-powder, 59 +Grain, high price of, 68 +Great seal, 76 +Guitar, 9 + +Hannibal, 75 +Hastings, Battle of, 33 +Hawkesbury, Lord, and new bread, 70 +Hawkins, Sir J., quoted, 79 +Heart-Breakers, 89 +Hedderwick, Dr, quoted, 101 +Henry VI., 48 +Henry VIII., 35 +Hentzner, quoted, 89 +High Church clergymen, 109 +Hodgson, Professor, 113 +Holbein's picture, 28 +Holme, R., quoted, 81 +House of Peers, 5 +How, Dr Walsham, 112 +Hull baker fined, 70 +---- candidate for Holy Orders and his moustache, 110 +---- policemen and the moustache, 113 +---- timber merchant and the moustache, 110 + +"Impartial Monitor," quoted, 61 +Incorporation of Barbers, 28 +Irish Shaving Statute, 47 + +Jewish custom, 26 +Jews used hair-powder, 59 +Johnson, Dr, 16 +Johnstone, Rev. E., desecrating the Sabbath by shaving, 24 +Julius II., 34 +Juvenile wigs, 92 + +Kauffmann, A., 66 +Kenealy, Dr, 88 +Kenrick, Dr, 16 +King's barber, 19 +Knox, John, 36, 37 + +Last barber-surgeon in London, 31 +Laud, Archbishop, 51 +"Letters from the Dead to the Living," 79 +Lichfield, 20 +Lincoln's Inn and the beard, 35 +London women barbers, 17 +Lord's Day observance, 21-25 +Louis XIV., 83 +Louth, 18 +Lowe, Rev. H.D., 113 +"Loyal Litany," quoted, 61 +Lyttelton, Lord, 91 + +Macedonian soldiers, 48 +Maclaren, C., editor of the _Scotsman_, 102 +Magistrate and the moustache, 97 +Malcolm, quoted, 82 +Manner of using hair powder, 63, 68 +Mansfield, Lord, 92 +Marie Antoinette, 92 +Marston, quoted, 54 +Mary Queen of Scots, 89 +Massinger, quoted, 61 +Medical men and wigs, 86 +Ministers shaving on Sunday, 24, 25 +Missal, 5 +Mock doctor, 86 +More, Rev. J., 36 +---- Sir Thomas, 36 +Moustache and the motor-car, 115 +---- movement, 96-115 +Muffs, 80 +Muntz, G.F., 99 +Music, barber's, 9, 21 + +Newcastle-on-Tyne, barber-surgeons of, 24 +_Notes and Queries_, quoted, 16, 47 +Nottingham, story of moustache and marriage, 103 + +Objectionable mode of advertising blood-letting, 27 +O'Connell, D., 90 +One pig-tail only returned to the reformed Parliament, 84 + +Paris, massacre of, 75 +Pepys, quoted, 31, 76 +Percival, Col., 99 +Periwig with tail, 81 +Peter the Great, 91 +Phlebotomy, 2-5 +Pig-tail, 84 +Pitt, 63 +Plucking the beard, 48, 49 +Poetical signs, 7, 8 +Politics and the moustache, 101 +Pontefract, 23 +Powdering the hair, 59-71 +Pulling the nose, 54 +Puritans, 11 + +"Quip for an Upstart Courtier," 9 + +"Rambler," quoted, 63 +Ramillies, Battle of, 82 +---- wig, 83 +Reading regulations, 9 +Red rag, 5 +Reform Bill, 84 +Repton, J.A., 41 +Retailer of scandal, 8 +Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 66 +Robinson, Serjeant, quoted, 106 +Rogers, Dr C., quoted, 24 +Romans and hair-powder, 59 +Russian laws, 56-59 +Ryle, Bishop, 109 + +Sandy-coloured hair, 60 +Saxons and hair-powder, 59 +Sayings, old, 51-56 +Saywell, Rev. J.L., quoted, 31 +Scarborough, woman barber at, 17 +Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 66 +Sealing custom, 35 +Shakespeare, quoted, 14, 53 +Shaving heads, 74 +Sheppard, Mr, M.P., 84 +Shirley, quoted, 53 +Short-bob, 83 +Sibthorp, Col., 99 +Speaker's wig, 87 +Starching the beard, 55 +Stealing wigs, 93-95 +Stephen, King, 75 +Stow, quoted, 75 +Stratford-on-Avon, 14 +Street frays, 9 +Strickland, Agnes, quoted, 92 +Stripes on barber's pole, colour of, 5 +Strutt, quoted, 60 +Stuart, artist, story of, 114 +Stubbes, 12 +Stupid barbers unknown, 8 +Sumner, Archbishop, 86 +Sunday shaving, 21-25 +Surgeons' Incorporation Bill, 5 +Swift, quoted, 5-7, 94 + +Taxing hair-powder, 62, 63, 65 +---- the beard, 37, 56-59 +Taylor the Water Poet, 38, 41 +Tewkesbury Abbey, epitaph from, 31 +"Thirsk Forfeits," 15 +Thurlow, Lord, 5 +Tichborne trial, 88 +Tiles, fine of, 9 +Tillotson, Dr, 85 +Timbs, John, quoted, 31 +_Times_, quoted, 64, 88, 97 +Token, beard, 58 +Tours, Edict of, 27 +Tragic story, 48 + +Verner, Col., 99 +Vizetelly, quoted, 50 + +Wakefield, first man to wear a moustache at, 102 +Walpole, Horace, quoted, 96 +---- Sir Robert, 85 +Ward, James, quoted, 109 +Wesleyans and the beard, 113 +_Whitehall Evening Post_, quoted, 90 +Wig-makers' riot, 95, 96 +Williams, noted barber, 92 +Wills and the moustache, 114 +With and without wigs, 90 +"Wits' Recreations," quoted, 60 +Women barbers, 16-18 +Working hours, long, 9 +Workshop and Sunday shaving, 23 + +Yarmouth, curious bill at, 69 +York, Archbishop of, 110 +---- Gild of Barber-Surgeons, 21 +"Yorkshire, Ballads and Songs of," quoted, 15, 16 + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of At the Sign of the Barber's Pole, by +William Andrews + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AT THE SIGN OF THE BARBER'S POLE *** + +***** This file should be named 19925.txt or 19925.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/9/9/2/19925/ + +Produced by Ted Garvin, Karina Aleksandrova and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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