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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Italian Cook Book
+       The Art of Eating Well
+
+Author: Maria Gentile
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2008 [EBook #24407]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Annie McGuire and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK
+
+  The Art of Eating Well
+
+  PRACTICAL RECIPES
+  OF THE
+  ITALIAN CUISINE
+
+  PASTRIES
+  SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES
+  AND SYRUPS
+
+  COMPILED BY
+  MRS. MARIA GENTILE
+
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+  NEW YORK
+
+  COPYRIGHT 1919
+  BY
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+One of the beneficial results of the Great War has been the teaching of
+thrift to the American housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons
+of economy, more attention has been bestowed upon the preparing and
+cooking of food that is to be at once palatable, nourishing and
+economical.
+
+In the Italian =cuisine= we find in the highest degree these three
+qualities. That it is palatable, all those who have partaken of food in
+an Italian =trattoria= or at the home of an Italian family can testify,
+that it is healthy the splendid manhood and womanhood of Italy is a
+proof more than sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the thriftiness
+of the Italian race, that it is economical?
+
+It has therefore been thought that a book of PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE
+ITALIAN CUISINE could be offered to the American public with hope of
+success. It is not a pretentious book, and the recipes have been made as
+clear and simple as possible. Some of the dishes described are not
+peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representative of the =Cucina
+Casalinga= of the peninsular Kingdom, which is not the least product
+of a lovable and simple people, among whom the art of living well and
+getting the most out of life at a moderate expense has been attained to
+a very high degree.
+
+
+
+
+1
+
+BROTH OR SOUP STOCK
+
+(Brodo)
+
+To obtain good broth the meat must be put in cold water, and then
+allowed to boil slowly. Add to the meat some pieces of bones and "soup
+greens" as, for instance, celery, carrots and parsley. To give a brown
+color to the broth, some sugar, first browned at the fire, then diluted
+in cold water, may be added.
+
+While it is not considered that the broth has much nutritive power, it
+is excellent to promote the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are
+made on a basis of broth.
+
+A good recipe for substantial broth to be used for invalids is the
+following: Cut some beef in thin slices and place them in a large
+saucepan; add some salt. Pour cold water upon them, so that they are
+entirely covered. Cover the saucepan so that it is hermetically closed
+and place on the cover a receptacle containing water, which must be
+constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire for six hours, then on a strong
+fire for ten minutes. Strain the liquid in cheese cloth.
+
+The soup stock, besides being used for soups, is a necessary ingredient
+in hundreds of Italian dishes.
+
+
+2
+
+SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI"
+
+This Soup is called of "=Cappelletti=" or "little hats" on account of
+the shape of the "=Cappelletti=".
+
+First a thin sheet of paste is made according to the following
+directions:
+
+The best and most tender paste is made simply of eggs, flour and salt,
+water may be substituted for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a
+less rich paste is needed. Allow about a cup of flour to an egg. Put the
+flour on a bread board, make a hollow in the middle and break in the
+egg. Use any extra whites that are on hand. Knead it thoroughly, adding
+more flour if necessary, until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll
+it as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling pin is necessary, but
+any stick, well scrubbed and sand papered, will serve in lieu of the
+long Italian rolling pin.
+
+Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring about three inches in
+diameter. In the middle of each circle place a spoonful of filling that
+must be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat (chicken, pork or veal)
+ground very fine and seasoned with grated cheese, grated lemon peel,
+nutmeg, allspice, salt. The ground meat is to be mixed with an equal
+amount of curds or cottage cheese.
+
+When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, fold the latter over
+and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to
+make it stay securely closed.
+
+These =cappelletti= should be cooked in chicken or beef broth until the
+paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.
+
+
+3
+
+BREAD SOUP
+
+(Panata)
+
+This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend for using the stale
+bread that must never again be thrown away. It is composed of bread
+crumbs and grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg (in very small
+quantity) and salt, all mixed together and put in broth previously
+prepared, which must be warm at the moment of the immersion, but not at
+the boiling point. Then place it on a low fire and stir gently. Any
+vegetable left over may be added.
+
+
+4
+
+GNOCCHI
+
+This is an excellent soup, but as it requires boiled or roast breast of
+chicken or turkey it is well to make it only when these ingredients are
+handy.
+
+Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes, the mealy kind being
+preferred. Mash the potatoes and mix them with chicken or turkey breast
+well ground, grated cheese (Parmesan or Swiss), two or more yolks of
+eggs, salt and a small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the compound on the
+bread board with a quantity of flour sufficient to make a paste and roll
+it in little sticks as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in
+little pieces about half an inch long and put them in boiling water.
+Five or six minutes' cooking will be sufficient.
+
+
+5
+
+VEGETABLE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Santé)
+
+Any kind of vegetables may be used for this soup: carrots, celery,
+cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of
+lettuce or greens of any variety.
+
+Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or chop coarsely cabbage
+or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over
+the fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter substitute, and
+let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook
+until the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in oil
+and serve them in the soup.
+
+
+6
+
+QUEEN'S SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Regina)
+
+This is made with the white meat of chicken, which is to be ground in a
+meat grinder together with blanched almonds (5 or 6) for one quart of
+chicken stock. To the meat and almond add some bread crumbs, first
+soaked in milk or broth, in the proportion of about one fifth of the
+quantity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be rubbed to a very
+smooth paste and hot broth is to be added to them. If you wish the soup
+to be richer and have a more milky consistency, use the yolk of an egg,
+which should be beaten, and have a few tablespoonfuls of hot broth
+stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil
+after the egg is added or it will curdle.
+
+One slice of stale bread may be cut into cubes, fried in deep fat, and
+the croutons put in the soup. Send it to the table with a dish of grated
+cheese.
+
+
+7
+
+BEAN SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di fagiuoli)
+
+One cup of dried beans, kidney, navy or lima is to be soaked over night.
+Then boil until tender. It is preferable to put the beans to cook in
+cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come to boil, pour off this
+water and add fresh.
+
+Chop fine 1/4 onion, one clove of garlic, one sprig of parsley and one
+piece of celery and put them to fry in 1/4 cup of oil with salt and a
+generous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add
+to them two cups of the broth from the beans and 1 cup of tomatoes
+(canned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the
+kettle of beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they
+are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a
+sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry toast make an
+excellent addition.
+
+The bean soup is made without meat or chicken broth, and it belongs
+consequently to that class of soup called by the Italians "=Minestra di
+Magro=" or "lean soup," to be served preferably on Friday and other days
+in which the Roman Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats.
+
+
+8
+
+LENTIL SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di lenticchie)
+
+The lentil soup is prepared in the same way as the bean soup, only
+substituting lentils for beans. A good combination is that of lentils
+and rice. The nutritive qualities of the lentils are not sufficiently
+known in this country, but all books on dietetics speak very highly of
+them.
+
+
+9
+
+VEGETABLE CHOWDER
+
+(Minestrone alla Milanese)
+
+Cut off the rind of 1/2 lb. salt pork and put it into two quarts of
+water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste
+with two or three sprigs of parsley, a little celery and one kernel of
+garlic. Add this paste to the pork and water. Slice two carrots, cut the
+rib out of the leaves of 1/4 medium sized cabbage. Add the carrots,
+cabbage leaves, other vegetables, seasoning and butter to the soup, and
+let it boil slowly for 2-1/2 hours. The last 1/2 hour add one small
+handful of rice for each person.
+
+When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put
+it back.
+
+The minestrone is equally good eaten cold.
+
+
+10
+
+RAVIOLI
+
+Put on the bread board about two pounds of flour in a heap; make a
+hollow in the middle and put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks,
+salt and three or four tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. Make a paste
+and knead it well, then let it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered
+with a linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, as thin as a
+ten-cent piece.
+
+Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled chicken meat: add to it an
+equal part of marrow from the bones of beef and pieces of brains, three
+yolks, some crumbs of bread soaked in milk or broth and some grated
+cheese (Parmesan or Swiss). Rub through a sieve and make little balls as
+big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at equal distances (a little
+more than an inch) in a line over the sheet of paste.
+
+Beat a whole egg and pass it over the paste with a brush all around the
+little balls. Cover these with another sheet of paste, press down the
+intervals between each ball, and then separate each section from the
+other with a knife. Moisten the edges of each section with the finger
+dipped in cold water, to make them stick together, and press them down
+with the fingers or the prongs of a fork. Then put to boil in water
+seasoned with salt or, better still, in broth. The ravioli are then to
+be served hot seasoned with cheese and butter or with brown stock or
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+11
+
+PAVESE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa alla Pavese)
+
+Cut as many thin slices of bread as are needed in order that each person
+may have at least two of them. These slices are then to be toasted and
+browned with butter. Poach two eggs for each person, one on each slice
+of bread and place the slices on a large and deep dish (not in a soup
+tureen). Pour hot broth in the plate, taking care not to break the eggs,
+season with Parmesan or Swiss cheese, and serve.
+
+
+
+
+PASTE
+
+SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC.
+
+(Pasta Asciutta)
+
+The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni at the beginning of the
+meal, in place of soup, and they give it the name of =Minestra Asciutta=
+or "dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the paste is served in
+many other forms and with different seasoning. This is by far the most
+popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleased the taste of all the
+peoples of the earth. The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of
+cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been recognized by all diet
+authorities and, as for its palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are
+just as enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as within the
+boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for
+spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The
+description of these three condiments follows:
+
+
+12
+
+TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Salsa di Pomidoro)
+
+Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, a piece
+of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and just enough
+parsley. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up seven or
+eight tomatoes and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from
+time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard
+strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.
+
+When fresh tomatoes are not available the tomato paste may be used. This
+is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be
+had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities.
+Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes.
+Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes
+as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes seasoned with
+salt and a bit of bay leaf, can always be used instead of fresh
+tomatoes.
+
+This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to
+dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with
+butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see
+Risotto). Mushrooms are a fine addition to it.
+
+When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to
+give good results:
+
+Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: form a little bunch of
+parsley and other aromatic greens and put everything to brown in a
+saucepan together with a piece of butter. Add a reasonable portion of
+tomato paste while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce
+assumes the necessary consistency.
+
+
+13
+
+BROWN STOCK
+
+(Sugo di Carne)
+
+Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of beef taken from a
+juicy cut and small pieces of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one
+carrot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small pieces. Add some
+butter and cover the whole with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and
+any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and cloves. Put over
+the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown,
+turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of water,
+renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of
+boiling water or, better still, of broth, and let it boil gently five or
+six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on
+top of the liquid.
+
+The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or =Croquettes=. The stock
+may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.
+
+
+14
+
+ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Salsa d'Acciughe)
+
+This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for =hors
+d'oeuvre=, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to
+be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty
+of water. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for
+use.
+
+Put five or six anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into boiling
+water to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop
+them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of oil
+and some pepper. Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two
+tablespoons of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated
+tomato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing through a
+sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled
+in water that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let
+them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be
+sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.
+
+
+15
+
+SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE
+
+(Pasta al burro e formaggio)
+
+This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti may be served, and it
+is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be
+boiled until tender in salted water, taking care to remove them when
+tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into
+the water until this is at a boiling point.
+
+Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
+served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so
+desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning
+them around the fork and eating them =is not the privilege of
+everybody=. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil twelve
+to fifteen minutes, or until the macaroni is perfectly soft. Stir
+frequently to prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it
+into a colander to drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with a
+generous quantity of butter and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked,
+it can be brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to
+it.
+
+The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a name designating size, not
+quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with butter and
+cheese.
+
+
+16
+
+MACARONI WITH SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni al sugo)
+
+The most appreciated kind of macaroni are those seasoned with tomato
+sauce or with brown stock (see nos. 12 and 13). The macaroni are boiled
+as above, then drained in a colander, returned to the saucepan and mixed
+with the sauce and grated cheese. For those who like it some butter may
+be added in the mixing.
+
+
+17
+
+MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe)
+
+After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to be put into the hot dish
+in which it is to be served and the anchovy sauce poured over it and
+well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce has gone all through
+it. Some olive oil may be added, but grated cheese is not generally used
+with the anchovy sauce.
+
+
+18
+
+MACARONI A LA CORINNA
+
+(Maccheroni alla Corinna)
+
+Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of salted water to which add a
+small piece of butter. When it begins to boil put in it 3/4 lb.
+macaroni. Let it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a colander.
+Put them again in new boiling water, prepared as above and let them cook
+on a slow fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of a plate with
+macaroni and cover this first layer with grated cheese and with some
+vegetables in macédoine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown with
+butter. Repeat the draining, moisten the macaroni with the water in
+which they have previously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten minutes
+more.
+
+The =Macédoine= of vegetables can be made with a dozen Bruxelles sprouts
+or one cabbage, half a dozen big asparagus cut in little pieces, a
+carrot cut in thin slices, a dozen small onions, some turnips and half a
+dozen mushrooms. The mushrooms and the asparagus can be omitted. Melt
+some butter in a saucepan and when the turnips, the carrots and the
+onions are half cooked, add the cabbage or sprouts. Put in some water
+and some more butter, boil for ten minutes and then add the mushrooms
+and the asparagus, adding salt and pepper, and a little sugar if this is
+desired.
+
+
+19
+
+MACARONI "AU GRATIN"
+
+(Maccheroni al gratin)
+
+Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender and drain them. Butter
+slightly a fireproof casserole and lay on the bottom some grated cheese
+and grated bread. Alternate the layers of cheese with macaroni and on
+the top layer of macaroni put more cheese and bread grated. Over the
+whole pour some melted butter, cover the casserole, (or =pyrex= plate)
+and put it in the oven with a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more,
+until the top appears browned.
+
+
+20
+
+MACARONI NAPOLITAINE
+
+(Maccheroni alla Napoletana)
+
+Grind 1/4 lb. salt pork or bacon and fry it out in a saucepan. While it
+is frying put one small onion through the grinder. As soon as the pork
+begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chopped, a clove (or small
+section) of garlic shredded fine, and a few dried mushrooms which have
+been softened by soaking in warm water. When the vegetables are very
+brown (great care must be taken not to burn the onion, which scorches
+very easily) add 1/2 lb. round steak ground coarsely or cut up in little
+cubes. When the meat is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned
+tomatoes or half a tablespoonful of tomato paste and simmer slowly until
+all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take 3/4
+hour. The sauce may be bound together with a little flour if it shows a
+tendency to separate.
+
+This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and spaghetti, also
+for boiled rice (see Risotto). The macaroni or spaghetti should be left
+unbroken when cooked. If they are too long to fit in the kettle immerse
+one end in the boiling salted water and in a very few minutes the ends
+of the spaghetti under the water will become softened so that the rest
+can be pushed down into the kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and
+it will not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in
+a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it and pour
+on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed.
+
+
+21
+
+MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL
+
+(Maccheroni all'olio)
+
+After the macaroni have boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan in
+which some good olive oil has already boiled, with a clove of garlic
+chopped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it doesn't stick to
+the bottom of the saucepan, and when it is well browned on one side,
+turn it to have the other side browned. Serve the macaroni very hot. Add
+no cheese.
+
+
+22
+
+RISOTTO MILANAISE
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese)
+
+Melt a small piece of butter in a saucepan. Brown in the butter a medium
+sized onion, cut in thin slices. When the onion is browned, take it away
+from the saucepan and add little by little the rice, stirring it with a
+wooden spoon. Every time that the rice becomes dry, add some hot broth
+(or hot water) until the rice is completely cooked. Add salt and pepper
+and a little saffron, if you like it.
+
+When the rice is almost cooked, add to it some brown stock. Dress with
+parmesan cheese and some butter. Mix well and serve hot. This dish must
+not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled before eating.
+
+
+23
+
+RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese II)
+
+The broth for this risotto may be made by cooking together the giblets,
+neck and tips of wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it may be
+made from the left-overs of roast fowl.
+
+Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. Then let the
+water cook away and begin adding the broth, in such quantity that the
+rice will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chopped onion in the
+oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut up small are a very good addition to this
+"=Soffritto=". Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir the
+mixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten egg just as the
+rice is taken from the fire.
+
+
+24
+
+(Risotto con piselli)
+
+Wash and dry 1-1/2 lb. rice; chop fine one medium sized onion and put it
+on the fire with a small quantity of butter.
+
+When the onion is well browned, add the rice little by little, stirring
+with a wooden spoon. Add some boiling water one cup at a time. Drain the
+peas previously prepared (fresh or canned peas may be used) and add them
+toward the end of the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, add some
+salt and take it away from the water almost dry. Add some butter, stir
+and serve hot.
+
+
+25
+
+RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER
+
+(Risotto coi gamberi)
+
+For this risotto either lobster or crab meat can be used: the former is,
+however, considered more tasty. The lobster or crab meat ought to be
+about half the weight of the rice employed. A little more than a pound
+of rice and half this weight of crab meat ought to be enough for six
+persons.
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, one carrot, half an
+onion a clove of garlic and brown the whole in good olive oil. When
+browned, add the crab meat and season with salt and pepper. During the
+cooking process stir and turn over the crabs, and when they have become
+red, pour over as much hot water as is necessary to cook the rice.
+
+After the water boils for a while, remove the lobster (or crab, or
+craw-fish) leaving the saucepan on the fire. Put half of the crabs
+aside, and grind the rest. Rub the ground meat through the sieve and put
+it back on the fire. In another saucepan melt some butter and put into
+it little by little the rice that has been washed and dried. Stir and
+add the broth from the first saucepan. When the rice is almost cooked
+add the craw-fish that you have put aside, or rather its meat extracted
+from the shells, take from the fire and pour over it the fish mixture,
+adding some grated cheese.
+
+
+26
+
+RICE WITH SAFFRON
+
+(Riso alla Milanese con Zafferano)
+
+Wash and dry the rice and put it in boiling broth (beef or chicken
+broth). When the rice is half cooked add half its weight of marrow of
+beef bone, cut into small pieces. A few minutes are sufficient for the
+cooking of the marrow. Add grated cheese and remove the kettle from the
+fire.
+
+Dissolve some saffron in one or two tablespoonfuls of broth; sift it
+through a sieve and mix with rice, which is to be served very hot, and
+makes an excellent soup.
+
+
+27
+
+RICE CAKES
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook the rice in milk, adding a small quantity of butter, some salt,
+half a teaspoon of sugar and just a taste of lemon peel. Let the rice
+cool down after being thoroughly cooked, then add three yolks of eggs
+(for 1/4 lb. of rice) and some flour. Mix well and let the whole rest
+for several hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the eggs to a
+froth, add to the rice mixing slowly, and put into the saucepan with a
+ladle.
+
+
+28
+
+FRIED ARTICHOKE
+
+(Carciofi fritti)
+
+Take two artichokes, cut out the hard part of the leaves and of the
+stalk, cut them in two. Then cut these halves into section or slices so
+as to have eight or ten for each artichoke, according to size. As you
+cut them, throw them into cold water and when they are well washed, dry
+them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once into the flour so that
+the latter remains attached to it. Beat the white of an egg, but not to
+a froth, then mix the yolk with the white and salt the whole. Shake out
+the artichokes to take away the superfluous flour and then put them in
+the egg, leaving them for a while so that the egg may be attached to
+them.
+
+Throw the pieces one by one into the pan where there is boiling fat,
+butter or olive oil, and when they are well browned, take them away and
+serve with lemon. If it is desired that the artichokes remain white, it
+is better to fry them in oil and to squeeze half lemon into the water
+where the artichokes are put to soften.
+
+
+29
+
+STEAMED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi a vapore)
+
+Artichokes have been only recently imported to the United States,
+principally by Italian farmers, and they are just beginning to find
+their way into the American kitchen. The artichokes may be eaten raw or
+cooked. It is a healthy and palatable vegetable, easily digested when
+cooked. It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It may be
+prepared in a thousand ways, and here follow some of the simplest and
+most tasteful.
+
+To prepare the steamed artichokes they must first be cleaned and the
+stalk cut to less than half an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on
+their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch or more of water. In
+an opening made in the middle put salt and pepper, and pour inside as
+much good olive oil as they may contain. Cover well the saucepan and put
+it on the fire. The artichokes, that are already seasoned, will be
+cooked by the steam.
+
+
+30
+
+STEWED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi in stufato)
+
+Wash the artichokes and cut the hard part of the leaves (the top). Widen
+the leaves and insert a hash composed of bread crumbs, parsley, salt,
+pepper and oil. Place the artichokes in the saucepan standing on their
+stalk, one touching the other. Cover them with water and let them cook
+for two hours or more. When the leaves are easily detached they are
+cooked.
+
+
+31
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER
+
+(Carciofi al burro)
+
+Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of as many artichokes as are
+needed. Cut them in two or four and boil them in salt water. When
+tender, drain them, have them slightly browned in melted butter and
+season with salt and pepper.
+
+When served in a vegetable dish or placed in a pyramid on a round plate,
+sprinkle with grated cheese.
+
+
+32
+
+FRIED SQUASH
+
+(Zucchine fritte)
+
+The squashes used by Italians for frying and other purposes are very
+small, and for this reason they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes.
+They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian vegetable dealers that
+are now to be found in large number in most American cities and,
+invariably, in Italian neighborhoods during the summer season. The
+"Zucchine" are an extremely tasty vegetable and they are especially good
+when fried.
+
+Select the squashes that are long and thin: wash them cut them in little
+strips less than half an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the
+interior and salt moderately. Leave them aside for an hour or two, then
+drain them but don't dry them. Put them in flour and rub gently in a
+sieve to take away the superfluous flour: immediately after put them in
+a saucepan where there is already oil, fat or butter boiling. At the
+beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking, and only when they have
+become a little hardened stir them and remove when they begin to be
+browned.
+
+
+33
+
+LAMB OMELET
+
+(Agnello in frittata)
+
+Cut in little pieces a loin of lamb, which is the part that lends itself
+best for this dish, and fry in lard: a little quantity of lard is
+sufficient, because the meat of the loins is rather fat. When half
+cooked season with salt and pepper and when fully cooked pour over four
+or five whole eggs slightly beaten also seasoned moderately with salt
+and pepper. Mix, taking care that the eggs do not harden.
+
+
+34
+
+FRIED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo fritto)
+
+Wash a spring chicken and keep in boiling water for one minute. Cut into
+pieces at the joints, roll them in flour, season with salt and pepper
+and dip in two whole beaten eggs. After leaving the pieces of chicken
+for half an hour, roll them in bread crumbs, repeating the operation
+twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with boiling oil or fat, seeing
+that the pieces of chicken are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire
+low. Serve hot with lemon.
+
+
+35
+
+CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA
+
+(Pollo alla cacciatora)
+
+Chop one large onion and keep it for more than half an hour in cold
+water, then dry it and brown it aside. Cut up a chicken, sprinkle the
+pieces with flour, salt and pepper and sauté, in the fat which remains
+in the frying pan. When the chicken is brown add one pint fresh or
+canned tomatoes and half a dozen sweet green peppers and put back the
+onion. When the gravy is thick enough add hot water to prevent the
+burning of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the
+chicken is very tender. This is an excellent way to cook tough chickens.
+Fowls which have been boiled may be cooked in this way, but of course
+young and tender chickens will have the finer flavor.
+
+
+36
+
+CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta con salsicce)
+
+Cook in water one cup of yellow cornmeal making a stiff mush. Salt it
+well and when it is cooked spread out to cool on a bread board about
+half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small squares.
+
+Put in a saucepan several whole sausages with a little water, and when
+they are cooked skin and crush them and add some brown stock or tomato
+sauce.
+
+Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fireproof receptacle, season
+with grated cheese, the crushed sausages and a piece of butter. Put it
+in the oven and serve when hot.
+
+
+37
+
+POLENTA PIE
+
+(Polenta Pasticciata)
+
+Make a very stiff mush of cornmeal cooked in milk. Salt it well and
+spread out on the bread board in a sheet about one inch thick. When
+cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place these in a buttered
+baking dish. Prepare the =Bolognese sauce= according to the following
+recipe: Chop 1/4 lb. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon, one small
+carrot 1/4 onion, one large piece celery. Put the meat and vegetables
+over the fire with a piece of butter. When the meat has browned add half
+a tablespoon of flour and wet the mixture with hot water or broth,
+allowing it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when it
+is the consistency of a thick gravy.
+
+Make a smooth white sauce with milk cornstarch and butter. Over a layer
+of the polenta, cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprinkle
+some grated cheese and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce and the
+meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is nicely
+browned. This dish seems very elaborate, but it is very delicious and a
+meal in itself.
+
+The Bolognese sauce is also used to season macaroni or spaghetti in lieu
+of the tomato sauce or the brown stock.
+
+
+38
+
+STUFFED ROLLS
+
+(Pagnottelle ripiene)
+
+Take some rolls, and by means of a round opening on the top, as large as
+a half dollar piece or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the
+crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and outside with hot milk,
+and when they are fairly soaked, dip in beaten eggs and fry them in lard
+or oil. When beginning to brown, fill them with meat that has been
+previously chopped and cooked. This chopped meat ought to be made with
+breast of chicken, chicken giblets, liver etc., brown stock and some
+flour to hold it together.
+
+
+39
+
+STEWED VEAL
+
+(Stracotto di vitella)
+
+The stock from this dish may very well be used to season macaroni or
+boiled rice. Care must be taken, however, not to draw away all the
+juice of the meat in order to have a sauce too rich at the expense of
+the principal dish.
+
+Place in a saucepan one pound of veal or more, bone included, a piece of
+butter or some olive oil (or the two together) half a medium sized
+onion, one small carrot, two celery stalks cut in small pieces. Season
+with salt and pepper. Put it on a low fire, turn the meat over often and
+when browned add a pinch of flour and some tomato paste, bringing it to
+full cooking with water poured little by little. The flour is used to
+keep the sauce together and give it color, but care must be taken not to
+burn it, because in that case the sauce would have an unpleasant taste
+and a black, instead of a reddish color. The addition of dried
+mushrooms, previously softened in the water and slightly boiled in the
+sauce will add greatly to its taste.
+
+As has been said the sauce can well be used to season spaghetti or
+risotto. The stewed veal can be served with some vegetable.
+
+
+40
+
+CHICKEN BONED AND STUFFED
+
+(Pollo dissossato ripieno)
+
+To remove the bones from a chicken the following instructions will be
+found useful.
+
+Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head and legs, and remove the
+tendons. When a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning
+is not difficult, but it requires practice. The skin must not be broken.
+Use a small pointed knife cut the skin down the full length of the back;
+then, beginning at the neck, carefully scrape the meat away from the
+bone, keeping the knife close to the bone. When the joints of the wings
+and legs are met, break them back and proceed to free the meat from the
+carcass. When one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the
+other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care
+must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the meat is
+free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs and wings, turning
+the meat down or inside out, as the bones are exposed, and using care
+not to break the skin at the joints. The end bones of the wing cannot be
+removed, and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.
+
+Now that the fowl is boned make the following stuffing, regulating the
+quantity on the size of the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean
+veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may make a paste. Add a large
+piece of bread crumb soaked in broth, a tablespoon of grated cheese,
+three yolks of egg, salt, pepper and, if desired, just a taste of
+nutmeg. Finally mix also one or two slices of ham and tongue, cut in
+small pieces. Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up the
+opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to cook in water on a low
+fire. When taken from the water, remove the wrapping and brown it, first
+with butter, then in a sauce made in the following way: Break all the
+bones that have been extracted from the chicken, the head and neck
+included, and put them on the fire with dried meat cut in little pieces,
+butter, onion, celery and carrot, seasoned with salt and pepper. Make
+the sauce with the water in which the chicken has been boiled, which has
+naturally become a good chicken broth.
+
+Before sending to the table, remove the thread with which the chicken
+has been sewed.
+
+
+41
+
+CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES
+
+(Pollo alla contadina)
+
+Take a young chicken and make some little holes in the skin in which you
+will put some sprigs of rosemary and a clove of garlic cut into five or
+six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped lard and season with salt
+and pepper inside and outside. When it is well browned on all parts add
+tomatoes cut in pieces, taking care to remove previously all the seeds.
+Moisten with broth or water. Brown some potatoes in oil, fat or butter,
+previously cutting them into sections. When browned dip in the sauce of
+the chicken and serve the whole together.
+
+
+42
+
+CHICKEN WITH SHERRY
+
+(Pollo al marsala)
+
+Cut the chicken in big pieces and put it in the saucepan with one medium
+sized onion chopped fine and a piece of butter. Season with salt and
+pepper and, when it is well browned, add some broth and complete the
+cooking. Remove the excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through a
+sieve or otherwise, and put the chicken back on the fire with a glass of
+Sherry or Marsala wine, removing it from the fire as soon as the sauce
+begins to boil.
+
+
+43
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Pollo colle salsicce)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter
+and four or five slices of ham, half an inch wide. Over these
+ingredients place a whole chicken, season with pepper and a little salt
+and place on the fire. Brown it on all sides and, when the onion is all
+melted, add water or broth and three or four sausages freshly made. Let
+it cook on a low fire, seeing that the sauce remains liquid and does not
+dry up.
+
+
+44
+
+CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Pollo in salsa d'uova)
+
+Break into pieces a young chicken and put it in the saucepan with a
+piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper. When it is half browned
+sprinkle with a pinch of flour to give it color, then complete the
+cooking with broth. Remove it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat
+the yolk of one egg with the piece of half a lemon and pour it on the
+sauce of the chicken, allowing it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour
+on the chicken and serve hot.
+
+
+45
+
+CHICKEN BREASTS SAUTÉS
+
+(Petti di pollo alla sauté)
+
+Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, give them the best
+possible shape and make a whole piece from the little pieces that will
+remain, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and mixing these. Season
+with salt and pepper and dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for
+a few hours. Sprinkle with bread crumbs ground fine and sauté in butter.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+If you want this dish more elaborate prepare a sauce in the following
+way: Put some good olive oil in a frying pan, just enough to cover the
+bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of dry mushrooms. Sprinkle over
+a small quantity of grated cheese and some bread crumbs. Repeat the same
+operation three or four times, according to the quantity, and finally
+season with olive oil, salt and pepper and small pieces of butter. Put
+the pan over the fire and when it has begun to boil pour a small cup of
+brown stock or broth and a little lemon juice. Remove the same from the
+fire and pour it on the chicken breast that have been browned as
+described above.
+
+
+46
+
+WILD DUCK
+
+(Anitra selvatica)
+
+Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and
+legs. Chop fine a thick slice of ham with both lean and fat together,
+with a moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and half medium sized
+onion. Put the chopped ham and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck
+on the whole, seasoning with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides and add
+water to complete the cooking.
+
+Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and afterward allowed to complete
+the cooking in the sauce obtained from the duck, form a good addition.
+
+To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild duck, either wash it in
+vinegar before cooking or scald it in boiling water.
+
+
+47
+
+STEWED SQUABS
+
+(Piccioni in umido)
+
+Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves and place them in a saucepan
+over a bed of small slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season
+with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire and when they begin
+to be browned, add a piece of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
+in some good broth. Before removing from the fire squeeze one lemon over
+them and garnish with squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care
+not to add too much salt on account of the ham and the broth both
+containing salt.
+
+=Note=--Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with broth.
+When meat broth is not available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes
+or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, however, always preferable to
+use broth made with fresh meat.
+
+
+48
+
+RAGOUT OF SQUABS
+
+(Manicaretto di piccione)
+
+Cut two or more squabs at the joints, preferably in four parts each, and
+put them on the fire with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a bunch
+of parsley. When they begin to dry, add some broth and--before they are
+completely cooked--their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut in slices.
+Continue pouring in broth and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire.
+Add another piece of butter over which some flour has been sprinkled, or
+flour alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and
+squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs.
+
+Some sweetbread may be added with good effect, but it must be first
+scalded and the skin removed.
+
+
+49
+
+SQUAB TIMBALE
+
+(Timballo di piccioni)
+
+Chop together some ham, onion, celery and carrot, add a piece of butter
+and place on the fire with one or two squabs, according to the number of
+guests. Add the giblets from the squabs and some more of chicken, if at
+hand. Season with salt and pepper, and when the pigeons are browned,
+pour over some broth to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that
+the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it
+some macaroni that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni
+in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced Béchamel
+sauce, then cut the squabs at the joints, removing the neck, the legs
+and the bones of the back, when you would not bone them entirely, which
+would be better. Cut the giblets in small pieces and remove the soft
+part of the onion.
+
+When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, season them with grated
+cheese, pieces of butter, diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg
+and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Add
+finally the Béchamel sauce and mix the whole.
+
+Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft pastry.
+Put everything in the mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry
+and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters
+of a pound of macaroni and two pigeons are enough for ten persons.
+
+
+50
+
+SALMI OF GAME
+
+(Uccelli in salmi)
+
+Roast the game completely, seasoning with salt and pepper. If the game
+be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove
+all the heads and grind them together with some pieces of birds, or some
+whole little birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter one
+half pound of bacon or ham cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one
+tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, one tablespoonful each
+of salt, thyme and sage. Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour
+then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted game. Make it
+boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of
+bread.
+
+
+51
+
+STEWED HARE
+
+(Stufato di lepre)
+
+Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting it in pieces, chop
+fine one medium sized onion, one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and
+several leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some pieces of butter,
+two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and four or five strips of bacon or salt
+pork, when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the
+pieces of hare inside the saucepan and season them with salt, pepper and
+spices. When it is browned, put a wineglass of white wine, some fresh
+mushrooms, or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Complete the
+cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if necessary, add another piece
+of butter.
+
+
+52
+
+STEWED RABBIT
+
+(Coniglio in umido)
+
+After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large pieces and put it on
+the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry,
+put in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and a hash
+composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of corned beef
+and some onion, celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
+Stir often and when it is browned add some tomato sauce and another
+piece of butter.
+
+
+53
+
+GREEN SAUCE
+
+(Salsa verde)
+
+Chop all together some capers that have been in vinegar, one anchovy, a
+small slice of onion and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting
+hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of
+parsley, chopped together with some leaves of basil and dissolve the
+whole in very good olive oil and lemon juice.
+
+This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or
+hard boiled eggs.
+
+Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.
+
+
+54
+
+WHITE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa bianca)
+
+This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The
+ingredients are 1/4 lb. of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a
+tablespoonful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, broth or water
+in sufficient quantity.
+
+Put first on the fire the flour with half the butter and when it begins
+to be browned pour over it the broth or the water little by little,
+stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the butter and the
+vinegar without making the water boil too much. When taken off the fire
+add the yolk of the egg, stir and serve.
+
+
+55
+
+YELLOW SAUCE
+
+(Salsa gialla)
+
+This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities
+indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish
+weighing about a pound.
+
+Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of flour and two
+ounces of butter, and when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it
+little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that is to say of the
+water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the flour
+does not rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce from the flour
+and pour over two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the yolk of an egg,
+stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a lemon
+and season generously with salt and pepper. Let it cool and then pour
+over the fish that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.
+
+This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too
+liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.
+
+
+56
+
+SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
+
+(Salsa per pesce in gratella)
+
+This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted anchovies, olive oil and
+lemon juice. Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every
+hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. Bone the anchovies and
+rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and
+dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it like a cream. Cover
+with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve
+aside in a gravy boat.
+
+
+57
+
+CAPER SAUCE
+
+(Salsa con capperi)
+
+This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are
+for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
+of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar one teaspoonful of
+flour, salt, pepper and vinegar.
+
+Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce.
+Put on the fire the flour with half of the butter, mix it and when it
+begins to take color, add the remaining butter.
+
+Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the broth of the fish:
+season generously with salt and pepper and take the saucepan from the
+fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some
+drops of vinegar, but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant
+to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.
+
+It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used
+together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and
+should be partaken of sparingly.
+
+
+58
+
+GENOVESE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa genovese)
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of garlic. Then mix with
+some capers soaked in vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
+pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, soaked in vinegar.
+Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive
+oil, dosing right by tasting.
+
+
+59
+
+BALSAMELLA SAUCE
+
+(Salsa balsamella)
+
+This sauce resembles the famous French Béchamel Sauce, but it is simpler
+in its composition.
+
+Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour and a piece of butter as
+big as an egg. Stir the flour and the butter together while keeping them
+over the fire. When the flour begins to be browned, pour over a pint of
+milk, continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid
+condensed like a cream. This is the =Balsamella=. If it is too thick add
+some milk, if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of
+butter dipped in flour.
+
+A good =Balsamella= and some well prepared brown stock are the base and
+the principal secret of many savory dishes.
+
+
+60
+
+CURLED OMELET
+
+(Frittata in riccioli)
+
+Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat two eggs,
+season with salt and pepper and mix with them enough spinach to make the
+eggs appear green. Put the frying pan on the fire with only enough oil
+to grease it and when very hot put in a portion of the eggs, moving the
+frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. When well cooked, remove it
+from the frying pan and repeat the operation once or twice in order to
+have two or three very thin omelets. Put these one over the other and
+cut them in small strips that are to be browned in butter adding a
+little grated cheese. These strips of omelet, resembling noodles, form a
+tasty and attractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or a similar
+dish.
+
+
+61
+
+VEAL KIDNEY OMELET
+
+(Frittata di rognone di vitella)
+
+Take a veal kidney, open it lengthwise and leave all its fat. Season
+with oil, salt and pepper, broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough
+eggs in proportion to the size of the kidney, season them with salt and
+pepper, both in moderate quantity and mix with them a sprig of parsley
+and some grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney in the eggs, mix all
+together and make an omelet with some butter.
+
+
+62
+
+PUFF PASTE
+
+(Pasta sfoglia)
+
+The =Pasta sfoglia= is not too difficult to make and if the following
+instructions are carefully followed, this fine and light paste can
+easily be prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll it on but
+this is not absolutely necessary. A warm, damp day is not favorable for
+the making of the =Pasta sfoglia=, which succeeds better when the
+weather is cold and dry.
+
+Mix half a pound of flour of the very best quality with a piece of
+butter as big as a walnut, some warm, but not hot water, enough salt and
+a teaspoonful of good brandy. When the paste is formed knead it well for
+about half an hour, first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly
+with force against the bread board. Make a cake of a rectangular form,
+wrap it in cloth and let it rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the
+hand 1/2 lb. of butter that has been kept previously on ice or, better,
+in a bowl of ice-water, until it becomes smooth and flexible, then make
+of it a little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a bowl of
+cold water. When the dough has rested take the butter from the water,
+wipe it with a cloth and dip it in flour.
+
+Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary to enclose within the
+cake of butter. This is placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet
+of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fingers moistened in a
+little water so that no air remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first
+with the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the sheet as thin as
+possible, but taking care that the butter does not come out. If this
+happens throw at once a little flour where the butter appears and always
+have the marble slab (or bread board) and the rolling pin sprinkled with
+flour. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste, and again roll
+the folded strip, repeating the operation six times and letting the
+paste rest from time to time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold
+it in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness that is, about one
+third of an inch. After each folding press the edges gently with the
+rolling pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to roll in a
+different direction.
+
+When the paste has had six turns cut it into the desired forms and put
+on ice, or in a cold place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting
+it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the
+bottom.
+
+The puff paste is used for paté shells and vol-au-vent cake and for
+light pastries of all kinds.
+
+
+63
+
+PASTE FOR FRYING
+
+(Pastella per fritto)
+
+Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with two teaspoonfuls of oil. Add two
+eggs, a pinch of salt, and mix well. This mixture will take on the
+aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze fried brains, sweetbreads
+and the like. All these things are first to be scalded in boiling salt
+water. Add a pinch of salt and one of pepper when taking from the water.
+The brains, sweetbreads etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces,
+thrown into the paste, or cream, described above and fried in oil or
+good lard.
+
+In frying these are often united to liver or veal cutlets. The liver
+must be cut in very thin slices and the cutlets beaten with the side of
+a big knife and given a good shape. Season with salt and pepper, dip in
+beaten egg and after a few hours sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+
+64
+
+CHICKEN STUFFING
+
+(Ripieno di pollo)
+
+The ingredients are 1/4 lb. lean veal or pork or breast of turkey and
+chicken giblets. Cook this meat together with a little hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot and butter. Season with salt pepper and spices,
+moistening it with broth. Take dry from the fire, take off the soft
+parts of the giblets, add a few dry mushrooms softened in water, a
+little slice of lean fat ham and chop everything fine. Into the sauce
+that has remained from the cooking throw enough breadcrumbs to make a
+tablespoonful of hard soaked bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a
+pinch of grated cheese and two eggs and fill the chicken with all this,
+sewing up the opening afterwards. The chicken can be boiled or stewed.
+If boiled you will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention when
+cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing in one piece in order to
+slice it.
+
+
+65
+
+MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT
+
+(Ripieno di carne per pasticcini di pasta sfoglia)
+
+This stuffing can be made either with stewed veal or chicken giblets or
+sweetbreads. The latter are preferable, being more delicate and a taste
+of truffles greatly improves the stuffing. If sweetbreads are used, put
+them on the fire with a piece of butter and season with salt and pepper.
+When they have begun to take color, complete the cooking with some brown
+stock, then cut them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or two
+spoons of =Balsamella= (see No. 54) a little tongue, one or two slices
+of ham cut in little squares, a pinch of grated cheese and a taste of
+nutmeg, seeing that the ingredients are in such quantities as to make
+the mixture tasty and delicate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it
+hardens and can be worked better.
+
+In order to enclose it in paté shells made with puff-paste (see No. 57)
+there are two ways. One is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing,
+the other to fill them after they are cooked. In the first case put the
+stuffing in the prepared disk of paste, moisten the edge with a wet
+finger, cover with another disk of paste and cook. In the second case,
+which is more convenient because the shells can be prepared one day
+before, the two disks are put together without the stuffing, but in the
+upper disk a circular cut must be made as large as a half dollar coin.
+The paté on cooking swells and leaves an empty space in the interior.
+Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle above, which has the
+form of a cover, the interior space can be made larger, filled with the
+stuffing and covered with the little cover. In this way it is enough to
+warm them before sending to the table. The puff-paste must always be
+glazed with the yolk of eggs.
+
+If a large vol-au-vent is to be filled instead of little paté-shells, a
+ragout of chicken giblets and sweetbread, cut in large pieces, is
+better.
+
+
+66
+
+PORK LIVER FRIED
+
+(Fegato di maiale fritto)
+
+Cut in to thin slices some pork liver, sprinkle with flour and fry in
+good lard. It must be served with its sauce. Squeeze in a lemon while it
+is frying.
+
+
+67
+
+FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE
+
+(Fritto composto alla Bolognese)
+
+Take a piece of stewed lean veal, a little brain boiled or stewed, and a
+slice of ham. Chop and grind everything fine. Add a yolk of egg or a
+whole egg, according to the quantity, and a little =Balsamella= (see No.
+54). Put the hash on the fire and stir until the egg is cooked. Add
+finally grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have them, some
+truffles chopped very fine and put in a plate. When quite cold make some
+little balls as large as a walnut and roll them in flour. Then dip in
+beaten egg and bread crumb ground very fine, repeating the operation
+twice, and fry.
+
+
+68
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+(Fritto alla Romana)
+
+I.
+
+Put on the fire a hash of onion and butter and when it is well browned
+cook in it a piece of lean veal seasoned with salt and pepper. When the
+meat begins to brown put in a little sherry wine to complete the
+cooking.
+
+Pound the whole to soften it a little using the sauce remained and if
+this is not enough add some broth and finally the yolk of an egg. See
+that the whole is not softened too much.
+
+Now take some wafers, not too thin and cut them in squares similar to
+those used by druggists. Beat one egg and the white from the other egg,
+then take a wafer, dip it in the egg and place it on a layer of bread
+crumbs ground fine. On the wafer put a little ball of the compound
+above, then dip another wafer in the egg, make it touch the bread crumbs
+only from the part that remains outside, and with this cover the
+compound attaching it to the lower wafer. Sprinkle again with bread
+crumbs if necessary and put the piece aside repeating the operation
+until all the meat is disposed of. Cook in oil or fat and serve with
+lemon.
+
+With half a pound of meat about twenty filled wafers should be obtained.
+
+
+69
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+II.
+
+This can be made when you happen to have some breast of roast chicken
+left over. Some chicken breast, two or three slices of tongue and ham,
+one tablespoonful of grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, are the
+ingredients used. Remove the skin of the chicken and cut it as well as
+the tongue and the ham, into little cubes. Make a =Balsamella= (see No.
+54) in sufficient quantity and when it is cooked add the above
+ingredients and let it cool well to fry using the wafer as in the
+preceding.
+
+
+70
+
+RICE PANCAKE
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook thoroughly 1/4 lb. of rice in about a pint of water giving it taste
+with a little piece of sugar and a taste of lemon peel. Leave it cool
+and then add three yolks of eggs and a little flour. Mix well and let
+the whole rest for several hours. When you are going to fry beat the
+white of an egg to a froth, add it to the rice and throw into the frying
+pan one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Serve hot sprinkled with confectionery sugar.
+
+
+71
+
+KIDNEY SAUTÉ
+
+(Rognoni saltati)
+
+Take one large kidney, or two or three small kidneys, open them and
+remove all the fat. Cut lengthwise in thin slices, salt and pour as much
+boiling water as is needed to cover them. When the water is thoroughly
+cooled, drain it and wipe well the slices with a cloth, then put them in
+a frying pan with a small piece of butter. Turn them often and when they
+have cooked for five minutes put in a pinch of flour and season with
+salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until thoroughly cooked and when
+you are going to take them away add another piece of butter, a sprig of
+chopped parsley and a little broth if needed. The kidney must not be
+kept too much on the fire, because in that case it hardens.
+
+
+72
+
+LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola)
+
+Take a shoulder or a leg of mutton and after having boned it, lard it
+with small pieces of bacon dipped in salt and pepper. Salt moderately
+the meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a pan that contains
+a piece of butter and one large onion larded with clover. When it begins
+to brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of broth, or of
+water, a little bunch of greens and some tomatoes cut in pieces. Put
+again on a low fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the
+saucepan closed, but opening from time to time to turn the meat. When it
+is cooked, throw away the onion, rub the sauce through a sieve, remove
+its fat and put it with the meat when served. The mutton must not be
+overdone, for in this case it cannot be sliced.
+
+
+73
+
+STEWED CUTLETS
+
+(Scaloppine alla Livornese)
+
+Take some slices of tender beef, beat them well and put them in a
+saucepan with a piece of butter. When this is all melted, put one or two
+tablespoonfuls of broth to complete the cooking, season with salt and
+pepper, add a pinch of flour and before taking them from the fire put
+in a pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+
+74
+
+CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT
+
+(Scaloppine di carne battuta)
+
+Take some good lean beef, clean it well, removing all little skins and
+tendons, then first chop and after grind the meat fine in the grinder.
+Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese. Mix well and give
+the meat the form of a ball then with bread crumbs over and beneath
+flatten it with the rolling pin on the bread board making a sheet of
+meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut it in square pieces, as large as
+the palm of the hand and cook in a saucepan with butter. When these
+cutlets are browned, pour over some tomato sauce and serve.
+
+If you prefer, use your hands instead of the rolling pin and then you
+can give them the shapes you like.
+
+If you have some left over meat this can perfectly well be mixed with
+the raw meat and chopped and ground together.
+
+
+75
+
+VEAL CUTLETS STEWED
+
+(Scaloppine alla Genovese)
+
+Cut some lean veal meat into slices and, supposing it be a pound or a
+little more, without bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized onion and
+put it in a saucepan with oil and a little piece of butter. Put over the
+cutlets, one layer over the other, season with salt and butter and put
+on the fire. When the meat which is below is browned put in a
+teaspoonful of flour and after a while a hash of parsley with half a
+clove of garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the other, mix
+them, let them drink in the sauce, then pour hot water and a little
+tomato sauce. Make it boil slowly and not much to complete the cooking
+and serve with abundant sauce and with little diamonds of toast.
+
+
+76
+
+STUFFED CUTLET
+
+(Braciuoline ripiene)
+
+Slice from a piece of veal (about one pound) seven or eight cutlets and
+beat them well with a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some tender
+veal meat and one or two slices of ham and add a small quantity of
+marrow bone (of veal) and grated cheese. The marrow and the grated
+cheese must be reduced to a paste with the blade of a knife. One egg is
+then added to tie up the hash and a pinch of pepper, but no salt on
+account of the ham and the cheese that already contain it. Spread the
+cutlets and put the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie them
+with strong thread.
+
+Now prepare a small hash with a little onion, a piece of celery a piece
+of carrot and a small quantity of corned beef and put it in the fire in
+a saucepan with a small piece of butter, at the same time that you put
+the cutlets. Season with salt and pepper and when they begin to brown
+pour some tomato sauce and complete the cooking with water. Before
+serving, remove the thread with which the cutlets have been tied.
+
+
+77
+
+MEAT OMELETTE
+
+(Polpettone)
+
+Take one pound of veal, without bones, clean it well taking away all
+skins and tendons and then chop it together with a slice of ham. Season
+moderately with salt pepper and spices, add one whole egg then with
+moistened hands make a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with flour.
+
+Make a hash with two or three slices of onion (not more) parsley,
+celery, and carrot, put it on the fire with a piece of butter and when
+it is browned throw in the =Polpettone=. Brown well on all sides and
+then pour in the saucepan half a tumbler of water in which half a
+tablespoonful of flour has been previously diluted. Cover and make it
+simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it doesn't burn. When you serve
+with the gravy squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it.
+
+If desired a hard boiled egg can be put shelled in the center of the
+meat ball, so that it gives it a better appearance when sliced.
+
+
+78
+
+LAMB WITH PEAS
+
+(Agnello ai piselli)
+
+Take a piece of lamb from the hind side, lard it with two cloves of
+garlic cut in little strips and with some sprigs of rosemary. Chop fine
+a piece of lard and a slice of corned beef. Put the lamb on the fire
+with this hash and a little oil and let it brown after seasoning with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned add a piece of butter, some tomato
+sauce, or tomato paste dissolved in water or soup stock and complete the
+cooking. Take away the lamb, put the peas in the gravy, and when they
+have simmered a little and are cooked put back the lamb and serve.
+
+
+79
+
+SHOULDER OF LAMB
+
+(Spalla d'agnello)
+
+Cut the meat of a shoulder of lamb in small pieces, or squares. Chop two
+small onions, brown them with a piece of butter and when they are
+browned put the meat and season with salt and pepper. Wait until the
+meat begins to brown and then add another piece of butter dipped in
+flour. Mix the whole and complete the cooking with soup stock or water
+with bouillon cubes poured in little by little.
+
+
+80
+
+BREAST OF VEAL STEWED
+
+(Stufatino di petto di vitella)
+
+Break a piece of breast of veal leaving all its bones.
+
+Make a hash with garlic, parsley, celery and carrot; add oil, pepper and
+salt and put on the fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when it
+begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of flour and a little tomato
+sauce or tomato paste diluted in water. Complete the cooking with broth
+or water. Finally add a piece of butter and pieces of celery cut in big
+pieces which must have been before half cooked in water and browned in
+butter. Care must be taken to keep the saucepan always covered, in this
+as in other stews.
+
+
+81
+
+VEAL WITH GRAVY
+
+(Vitella in guazzetto)
+
+First take about one pound of veal and tie it well. Then cover the
+bottom of the saucepan with some thin slices of corned beef and a piece
+of butter. Over this place half a lemon cut in four thin slices from
+which the skin and the seeds must be removed. Over all this put the veal
+which must be well browned on all sides, but care must be taken not to
+burn it on account of the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove
+the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of hot milk, that has boiled.
+Cover the saucepan and complete the cooking. Before serving rub the
+gravy through a sieve.
+
+
+82
+
+TRIPE WITH GRAVY
+
+Boil some tripe in water and when it is boiled, cut it in strips, one
+quarter of an inch wide and wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a
+saucepan with butter, and when this is melted, add some brown stock or
+good tomato sauce. Season with salt and pepper, cook thoroughly and add
+a pinch of grated cheese before taking from the saucepan.
+
+
+83
+
+VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY
+
+(Fegato di vitella al sugo)
+
+Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown in oil and butter, and
+when it has taken a dark red color, throw in the liver cut in thin
+slices. When half cooked season with salt, pepper and a pinch of
+chopped parsley. Make it simmer on a low fire so that the gravy remains,
+and serve in its gravy, squeezing over some lemon juice when sent to the
+table.
+
+In this and in similar cases, when using scallions or onions, some
+advise putting these in a cloth after being chopped and dip them in cold
+water squeezing them dry after.
+
+
+84
+
+MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL
+
+(Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella)
+
+Put in saucepan a slice of ham, some butter, a little bunch composed of
+carrot, celery and stems of parsley and over this some whole cutlets of
+mutton seasoned with salt and pepper. Make them brown on both sides, add
+another piece of butter, if necessary, and add to the cutlets some
+chicken giblets, sweetbreads and fresh or dry mushrooms (the latter
+softened in water), all cut in pieces. When all this begins to brown,
+pour some soup stock and let it simmer on a low fire. Sprinkle a little
+flour and finally pour a wineglass (or half a tumbler) of white wine
+leaving it boil a little more. When ready to serve remove the ham and
+the greens, rub the gravy through a sieve and remove the superfluous
+fat.
+
+
+85
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA
+
+(Filetto al marsala)
+
+Roll a piece of the tenderloin, tie it and, if it is about two pounds,
+put it on the fire with a middle-sized onion cut in thin slices, some
+thin slices of ham and a piece of butter, seasoning but moderately with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned from all sides and the onion is
+consumed, sprinkle a pinch of flour, let this take color and then pour
+some soup stock or water. Make it simmer on a low fire, then rub the
+gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a small
+tumbler of Marsala or Sherry wine put it back on the fire to simmer
+again. Serve with the gravy neither too liquid nor too thick.
+
+The filet can also be larded with bacon and cooked in butter and Marsala
+only.
+
+
+86
+
+MEAT GENOVESE
+
+(Carne alla Genovese)
+
+Take thick slices of good lean veal, weighing about a pound, beat it and
+flatten it well. Beat three or four eggs, season them with salt and
+pepper, a pinch of grated cheese and some chopped parsley. Fry the eggs
+in butter in the form of an omelet about the size of the meat over
+which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps and putting the
+pieces where it lacks so as to cover the meat entirely. After that roll
+tight the meat together with the omelet and tie it with thread. Then
+sprinkle some flour over it and put it in a saucepan with a piece of
+butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. When it is well browned on all
+sides, pour some soup stock to complete the cooking and serve it in its
+gravy which will be thick enough on account of the flour.
+
+
+87
+
+RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS
+
+(Sfornato di riso con rigoglie)
+
+Make a good brown stock (see No. 13) and use the same for the rice as
+well as for the giblets. To these add some thin slices of ham and brown
+them first in butter, seasoned moderately with salt and pepper,
+completing the cooking with brown stock. A taste of mushrooms will be
+found useful.
+
+Brown the rice equally in butter, then complete the cooking with hot
+water. Drain and put the brown stock, adding grated cheese and two
+beaten eggs, when the rice has cooled a little.
+
+Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it evenly with butter, cover
+the bottom with buttered paper and place in it the rice to harden it in
+the oven. When taken from the mold pour over the gravy from the
+giblets, slightly thickened with a pinch of flour and serve with the
+giblets around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for them.
+
+
+88
+
+PUDDING GENOESE
+
+(Budino alla genovese)
+
+Chop together a slice of veal, some chicken breast and two slices of ham
+and then grind or better pound them, with a small piece of butter, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and a crumb of bread soaked with milk.
+Rub through a sieve and add three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella= (see
+No. 54) which you will make thick enough for this dish, three eggs and
+just a taste of nutmeg, mixing everything well.
+
+Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with butter and put on the bottom a
+sheet of paper, cut according to the shape of the bottom and equally
+greased with butter. Pour over the above ingredients and cook in a
+vessel immersed in boiling water (double boiler).
+
+When taken from the mold, remove the paper and in its place put a gravy
+formed with chopped chicken giblets cooked in brown stock. Serve hot.
+
+
+89
+
+LIVER LOAF
+
+(Pane di fegato)
+
+Cut about one pound of veal liver in thin slices and four chicken livers
+in two parts and put all this in a saucepan with rosemary and a piece of
+butter. When this is melted put in another piece and season with salt
+and pepper. After four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the liver
+(dry) and grind it together with the rosemary. In the gravy that remains
+in the saucepan put a big crumb of bread, cut into small pieces and make
+a paste that will also be ground with the liver. Then rub everything
+through a sieve, add one whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of grated
+cheese, diluting with brown stock or water. Finally put in a smooth mold
+with a sheet of paper in the bottom, all evenly greased with butter and
+cook in a double boiler. Remove from the mold when cool and serve cold,
+with gelatine.
+
+
+90
+
+VEAL WITH TUNNY
+
+(Vitello tonnato)
+
+Take two pounds of meat without bones, remove the fat and tendons, then
+lard it with two anchovies. These must be washed and boned and cut
+lengthwise, after opening them, making in all eight pieces. Tie the
+piece of meat not very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in
+enough water to cover it completely. Previously put into the water one
+quarter of an onion larded with clover, one leaf of laurel, celery,
+carrot and parsley. Salt the water generously and don't put the veal in
+until it is boiling. When the veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it
+for two or three days in the following sauce in quantity sufficient to
+cover it.
+
+Grind 1/4 pound tunny fish preserved in olive oil and two anchovies,
+crush them well with the blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding
+good olive oil in abundance little by little, and squeeze in one whole
+lemon, so that the sauce should remain liquid. Finally mix in some
+capers soaked in vinegar.
+
+Serve the veal cold, in thin slices, with the sauce.
+
+The stock of the veal can be rubbed through a sieve and used for
+risotto.
+
+
+91
+
+STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH
+
+(Zucchini ripieni)
+
+For a description of the =Zucchini= see No. 32.
+
+To make the stuffed zucchini first cut them lengthwise in two halves and
+remove the interior pulp, leaving space enough for the filling.
+
+Take some lean veal (quantity in proportion to the squashes) cut it into
+pieces and place it on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot, a little corned beef cut in little pieces, a
+little oil, salt and pepper. Stir it often with a spoon and when the
+meat is brown pour in a cup of water and then another after a while.
+Then rub the gravy through a sieve and put it aside.
+
+Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the grinder and make a hash of
+it and one egg, a little grated cheese, a crumb of bread boiled in milk
+or in soup stock and just a taste of nutmeg. Put this hash inside each
+half squash and put them to brown in butter, completing the cooking with
+the gravy set aside.
+
+
+92
+
+STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUTÉ
+
+(Fagiolini e zucchini sauté)
+
+Brown in butter some string beans, that have been previously half cooked
+in water and some raw squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in only
+when the butter is beginning to brown. Season moderately with salt and
+butter and add some brown stock or good tomato sauce.
+
+
+93
+
+STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo)
+
+Take less than a pound of string beans, cutting off the two points and
+removing all the strings, and then cook them partially in water
+moderately salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and brown with
+butter, salt and pepper. Beat one yolk with a teaspoonful of flour and
+the juice of half a small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold broth
+from which the fat has been removed and put this liquid on the fire in a
+small saucepan stirring continually. When the liquid has become, through
+the cooking, like a cream, pour it on the string beans that you will
+keep on the fire a little longer, with the sauce. The string beans so
+prepared can be served with boiled beef.
+
+
+94
+
+STRING BEANS IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di fagiolini)
+
+Take one pound of string beans, seeing that they are quite tender. Cut
+off the ends and remove the strings. Throw them into boiling water with
+a pinch of salt and when they are half cooked take them away and put
+them in cold water. If you have brown stock complete the cooking with
+this and with butter, otherwise brown a piece of onion, some parsley, a
+piece of celery and olive oil. When the onion is browned put in the
+string beans and complete the cooking with a little water if necessary.
+
+Prepare a =Balsamella= sauce (No. 54) with a small piece of butter,
+half a teaspoonful of flour and half a cup of milk. With this, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and four beaten eggs bind the string
+beans when they are cold, mix and put in a mold, evenly greased with
+butter and the bottom covered with paper. Cook in a double boiler and
+serve hot.
+
+
+95
+
+CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di cavolfiore)
+
+Take a good sized cauliflower, remove the stalk and outside leaves, half
+cook it in water and then cut it into small pieces. Salt them and put
+them to brown with a little piece of butter and then complete the
+cooking with a cup of milk. Then rub them through a sieve. Prepare a
+=Balsamella= (No. 54) and add it to the cauliflower with 3 beaten eggs
+and a tablespoonful of grated cheese.
+
+Cook in a greased mold and serve hot.
+
+
+96
+
+ARTICHOKES IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di carciofi)
+
+Remove the outside leaves of the artichokes, the harder part of all
+leaves, and clean the stalks without removing them.
+
+Cut each artichoke into four parts and put them to boil in salt water
+for only five minutes. If left longer on the fire they become too soaked
+in water and lose their taste. Remove from the water, drain them, grind
+or pound and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so obtained with
+two or three beaten eggs, two or three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella=
+(No. 54) grated cheese, salt and a taste of nutmeg, but taste the
+seasoning several times to see that it is correctly dosed.
+
+Place in a mold with brown stock or meat gravy (in that case use a mold
+with a hole) and cook in double boiler.
+
+
+97
+
+FRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi fritti)
+
+Choose middle-sized mushrooms, which are also of the right ripeness:
+when they are too big they are too soft and if small they are too hard.
+
+Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do not keep in water, for then
+they would lose their pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large
+slices and dip them in flour before putting in the frying pan. Olive oil
+is best for frying mushrooms and the seasoning is composed exclusively
+of salt and pepper to be applied when they are frying. They can also be
+dipped in beaten eggs after being sprinkled with flour, but this is
+superfluous.
+
+
+98
+
+STEWED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi in umido)
+
+For a stew the mushrooms ought to be below middle-size. Clean, wash and
+cut as for the preceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with olive oil, one
+or two cloves of oil and some mint leaves. When the oil begins to
+splutter, put the mushrooms in without dipping in flour, season with
+salt and pepper and when they are half cooked pour in some tomato sauce.
+Be sparing however, with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms do
+not absorb it too much and so lose some of their own delicate flavor.
+
+
+99
+
+DRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi secchi)
+
+Mushrooms are an excellent condiment of various dishes and for this
+reason it is well to have some always at hand. Since, however, it is
+not always possible to have them fresh, the following recipe to prepare
+dried mushrooms will be found useful.
+
+First of all wait until there is a sunny day. Choose young mushrooms
+middle sized or big, but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean them well
+in order to remove the earth and, without washing cut them in big
+pieces. This because when dried they diminish considerably in size. Keep
+these pieces exposed in the sun for two or three days, then thread them
+on a string (practising a hole in them) and keep in a well ventilated
+room or in the sun until they become quite dry. Then put them away well
+closed in a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from time to time
+to see if it is necessary to expose them some more to sun and
+ventilation.
+
+To use them soften in warm water, but keep them in as little as
+possible, so that they do not lose their delicate flavor. The best time
+to dry the mushrooms is June or July.
+
+
+100
+
+FRIED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane fritte)
+
+Egg-plant or, as they are also called, mad-apples are an excellent
+vegetable which may be used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or
+middle-sized egg-plants are to be preferred, as the big ones have
+sometimes a slightly bitter taste.
+
+Remove the skin, cut into cubes, salt and leave them in a plate for a
+few hours. Then wipe them to remove the juice that they have thrown out,
+dip in flour and fry in oil.
+
+
+101
+
+STEWED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane in umido)
+
+Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place on the fire with a piece
+of butter. When this is all absorbed, complete the cooking with tomato
+sauce (No. 12).
+
+
+102
+
+EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN
+
+(Melanzane al forno)
+
+Skin five or six egg-plants, cut them in round slices and salt them so
+that they throw out the water that they contain. After a few hours dip
+in flour and frying oil.
+
+Take a fireproof vase or baking tin and place the slices in layers, with
+grated cheese between each layer, abundantly seasoned with tomato sauce
+(No. 12).
+
+Beat one egg with a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce, a
+teaspoonful of grated cheese and two of crumbs of bread, and cover the
+upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the oven and when the egg
+is coagulated, serve hot.
+
+
+103
+
+DRESSING OF CELERY
+
+(Sedano per contorno)
+
+The following are three ways to prepare celery to be served as seasoning
+or seasoning for meat dishes. For the first two make the pieces about
+four inches long, and two inches for the third. The stalk must be
+skinned, cut crosswise and left attached to the rib of the celery. Boil
+it in water moderately salted not over five minutes and remove dry.
+
+1. Put the celery to brown in butter, then complete the cooking with
+brown stock (No. 13) and sprinkle with grated cheese when serving.
+
+2. Put in saucepan a piece of butter and a hash made with ham and a
+middle sized onion, chopped fine. Add two cloves and make it boil. When
+the onion is browned add soup stock or hot water with bouillon cubes and
+complete the cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve and put the
+gravy in a plate with the celery, seasoning with pepper only, as the
+salt is already in the ham and serve with the gravy.
+
+3. Dip the celery in flour and in the paste for frying (No. 58) and fry
+in fat or oil. Or else dip in flour and then in beaten egg, wrap in
+bread crumbs and fry.
+
+
+104
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCE
+
+(Carciofi in salsa)
+
+Remove the hard leaves of the artichokes, cut the points and skin the
+stalk. Divide each artichoke into four parts or six if they are big, and
+put them on the fire with butter in proportion, seasoning with salt and
+pepper. Shake the saucepan to turn them and when they have absorbed a
+good part of the melted butter, pour in some broth to complete the
+cooking. Remove them dry, and in the gravy that remains put a pinch of
+chopped parsley, one or two teaspoonfuls of cheese grated fine, lemon
+juice, more salt and pepper if needed, and, mixing the whole, make it
+simmer for a while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and add one or
+two yolks of egg, according to the quantity and put back on the fire
+with more broth to make the sauce loose. Put the artichokes in the sauce
+this second time to heat them and serve especially as a side-dish for
+boiled meat.
+
+
+105
+
+STUFFED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi ripieni)
+
+Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small outside leaves and wash the
+artichokes. Then cut the top and open the internal leaves so that you
+can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove the hairy part if it is
+there. Keep aside the small interior leaves to put them with the
+stuffing. This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes, must be
+composed of the above small leaves, 1/8 lb. of ham more lean than fat,
+one fourth of a small onion, just a taste of garlic, some leaves of
+celery or parsley, a pinch of dry mushrooms, softened in water, a crumb
+of bread and a pinch of pepper, but no salt.
+
+First chop the ham, then grind everything together and with the hash
+fill the artichokes, and put them to cook standing on their stalks in a
+saucepan with some oil, salt and pepper. Some prefer to give the
+artichokes a half cooking in water before stuffing it, but it is hardly
+advisable, because in this way they lose part of their special flavor.
+
+
+106
+
+ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT
+
+(Carciofi ripieni di carne)
+
+For six artichokes, make the following stuffing:
+
+  1/4 lb. lean veal.
+  Two slices of ham, more fat than lean.
+  The interior part of the artichokes.
+  One fourth of onion (small).
+  Some leaves of parsley.
+  One pinch of softened dried mushrooms.
+  One small crumb of bread rolled and sifted.
+  One pinch of grated cheese.
+
+When the artichokes have been browned with oil alone, pour a little
+water and cover with a moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The
+steam that surrounds the artichokes cooks them better.
+
+
+107
+
+PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Piselli alla francese)
+
+The following recipe is good for one of fresh peas. Take two young
+onions, cut them in half, put some stems of parsley in the middle and
+tie them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of butter and when
+they are browned, pour over a cup of soup stock. Make it boil and when
+the onions are softened rub them through a sieve together with the gravy
+that you will then put on the fire with the peas and two whole hearts of
+lettuce. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer. When the peas
+are half cooked add another piece of butter dipped in a scant
+tablespoonful of flour and pour in some broth, if necessary. Before
+sending to the table put in two yolks of eggs dissolved in a little
+broth.
+
+II
+
+The following recipe is simpler than the preceding, but not so delicate.
+Cut an onion in very thin slices and put it on the fire in a saucepan
+with a little butter. When it is well browned add a pinch of flour, mix
+and then add according to the quantity, a cup or two of soup stock or
+water with bouillon cubes and allow the flour to cook. Put in the peas,
+season with salt and pepper and add, when they are half cooked, one or
+two whole hearts of lettuce. Let it simmer, seeing that the gravy is not
+too thick.
+
+Before serving remove the lettuce.
+
+
+108
+
+PEAS WITH HAM
+
+(Piselli col prosciutto)
+
+Cut in two one or two young onions, according to the quantity of the
+peas and put them on the fire with oil and one thick slice of ham cut
+into small cubes. Brown until the ham is shrivelled; then put the peas
+in, season with a pinch of pepper and very little salt, mix and complete
+the cooking with broth, adding a little butter.
+
+Before serving, throw the onion away.
+
+
+109
+
+PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF
+
+(Piselli con la carne secca)
+
+Put on the fire a hash of corned beef, garlic, parsley and oil, season
+with a little salt and pepper and when the garlic is browned, put the
+peas in. When they have absorbed the sauce, complete the cooking with
+broth or, failing that, with water.
+
+
+110
+
+STUFFED TOMATOES
+
+(Pomodori ripieni)
+
+Select ripe middle-sized tomatoes, cut them in two equal parts and scoop
+out the inside seeds. Season with salt and pepper and fill the tomatoes
+with the following hash, in such a way as to make the stuffing come over
+the edge of the half tomato:
+
+Make a hash with onion, parsley and celery, put it on the fire with a
+piece of butter and when it is browned, put in a small handful of dried
+mushrooms previously softened in water and chopped very fine: add a
+tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk, season with salt and
+pepper and let the compound simmer, moistening with water if necessary.
+When you take from the fire add, when it is still lukewarm, grated
+cheese and a beaten yolk (or two) of egg, but seeing that the compound
+does not become too liquid.
+
+When the tomatoes are filled, take them in the oven with a little butter
+and oil mixed together and serve them as a side-dish for roast beef or
+steak.
+
+The stuffed tomatoes can be made simpler with a hash of garlic and
+parsley mixed with bread crumbs, salt and pepper and seasoned with oil
+when they are in the saucepan.
+
+
+111
+
+CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA
+
+(Cavolfiore colla balsamella)
+
+Remove from a good sized cauliflower the external leaves and the green
+ribs, make a deep cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in salted
+water. Then cut it in sections and brown with butter, salt and pepper.
+Put it in a baking tin, throw over a small pinch of grated cheese, cover
+with the =balsamella= (No. 54) and brown the surface.
+
+Serve this cauliflower as an =entremets= or as a side-dish with boiled
+chicken or a stew.
+
+
+112
+
+STUFFED CABBAGE
+
+(Cavolo ripieno)
+
+Take a big cabbage, remove the hard outside leaves, cut the stem off
+even with the leaves and give it half cooking in salt water. Put it
+upside down to drain, then open the leaves one by one until the heart is
+exposed and on this put the stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close
+them and tie with thread crosswise.
+
+The stuffing can be made with milk veal stewed alone, or with sweetbread
+or chicken liver, all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, add some
+=balsamella= (No 54) a pinch of grated cheese, one yolk of egg and a
+taste of nutmeg. Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sauce of
+this stew, adding a little butter, on a low fire or in the oven kept
+low.
+
+Instead of filling the whole cabbage, the larger leaves may be filled
+one by one, rolling and tying them.
+
+
+113
+
+SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH
+
+(Spinaci per contorno)
+
+After cooking the spinach in boiling water and chopping them fine, the
+spinach can be cooked in different ways:
+
+1. With butter, salt and pepper, adding a little brown stock, if you
+have it, or a few tablespoonfuls of broth, or milk.
+
+2. With onion sauce (onion chopped very fine) and butter.
+
+3. With butter salt and pepper, adding a very small pinch of grated
+cheese.
+
+4. With butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato
+paste diluted with soup stock or water.
+
+
+114
+
+ASPARAGUS
+
+(Sparagi)
+
+Asparagus can be prepared in many different ways, but the simplest and
+best is that of boiling them and serving them seasoned with olive oil
+and vinegar or lemon juice. However there are other ways as, for
+instance, the following: Put them whole to brown a little with the green
+part in butter and, after seasoning them with salt, pepper and a pinch
+of grated cheese, pour over the melted butter when it is browned. Or
+else divide the white from the green part and place them as follows in a
+fireproof plate: Dust the bottom with grated cheese and dispose over the
+points of the asparagus one near the other; season with salt, pepper,
+grated cheese and little pieces of butter. Make another layer of
+asparagus and, seasoning in the same way, continue until you have them.
+Be moderate in the seasoning. Cross the layers of asparagus like a
+trestle, put on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is melted. Serve
+hot.
+
+If you have some brown stock, parboil them first and complete the
+cooking with brown stock, adding a little bust and dusting moderately
+with grated cheese.
+
+
+115
+
+FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS
+
+(Pesce col pane grattato)
+
+This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is made especially when
+you have boiled fish of good quality left over.
+
+Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all the bones, then put it
+in the =balsamella= (No. 54) and season with enough salt, grated cheese
+and some mushrooms chopped fine. If dried mushrooms soften in water
+first. Then take a fireproof plate, grease it evenly with butter and
+dust with bread crumbs ground fine; pour into it the fish prepared as
+above and cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs. Finally put over a
+piece of butter, brown in the oven and serve hot.
+
+
+116
+
+STEWED FISH CUTLETS
+
+(Pesce a taglio in umido)
+
+The fish that can be used for this dish are the tunny, the umber or
+grayling, the sword fish and any piece of fish of large size and good
+savor. A pound may be sufficient for four or five persons.
+
+Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in flour and put to brown in
+a little oil. Remove dry, throw away the oil that remains and clean the
+saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with half a middle sized
+onion, a piece of white celery and a good pinch of parsley. Put this to
+brown on the fire with sufficient oil and season with salt, pepper and
+one whole clove. When it is browned put abundant tomato sauce (No 12) or
+tomato paste diluted in broth or water. Let it simmer for a while, then
+place the fish to complete the cooking, turning it over frequently. The
+fish must be served with this thick gravy that ought to be abundant.
+
+
+117
+
+WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Merluzzo alla Palermitana)
+
+Take one whiting, one pound or a little more, and trim all the fins,
+leaving the tail and the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season
+with a little salt and pepper. Turn it on the back, grease with oil,
+season with salt and pepper, dust with bread crumbs then lay it with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil on a fireproof plate or baking tin.
+
+Take three or four good sized anchovies, bone and clean them, chop them
+and put on the fire with two tablespoonfuls of oil, but do not allow it
+to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the fish and dust it all with
+bread crumbs, putting also some leaves of rosemary. Bake in the oven,
+allowing a little crust to form over, but see that it doesn't dry up,
+pouring over to this purpose more oil. Before removing from the tin
+squeeze half a lemon over.
+
+This dish can be served surrounded by little toast with caviar, or
+anchovies and butter.
+
+
+118
+
+STEWED EEL
+
+(Anguille in umido)
+
+For this dish it is preferable to have good sized eels that must not be
+skinned, but cut in small pieces.
+
+Chop some onion and parsley, put it on the fire with oil, salt, and
+pepper, and when the onion is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until
+it has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then complete the
+cooking with tomato sauce (No. 12).
+
+See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with little squares or
+diamonds of toast.
+
+
+119
+
+EELS WITH PEAS
+
+(Anguille coi piselli)
+
+Cook the eels as above with the onion sauce and when it is cooked remove
+it dry to cook the green peas in the sauce. The pieces of eel should be
+put back in the sauce to be warmed. No tomato sauce is necessary here.
+
+
+120
+
+MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Arselle in salsa d'uovo)
+
+A good washing with fresh water is sufficient for mussels that do not
+have any sand to be cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce of
+oil, garlic, parsley and a pinch of pepper. Shake them and keep the
+saucepan covered seeing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take
+them out when they are open and prepare the following sauce: one or more
+yolks of egg, according to the quantity, lemon juice, one teaspoonful of
+flour, broth and some of their own juice. Cook this sauce until it
+becomes a smooth cream and pour it on the mussels when they are served.
+
+
+121
+
+MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Arselle alla livornese)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it on the fire with oil and a pinch of
+pepper. When the onion begins to brown add a pinch of parsley chopped
+not very fine and after put in the mussels with tomato sauce (No. 12)
+or tomato paste diluted in water. Shake them often and when they are
+open, put them over slices of toast prepared beforehand and arranged on
+a plate.
+
+
+122
+
+CODFISH
+
+(Baccalá)
+
+I
+
+Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, changing the water two or
+three times, or, better, keeping it for some time in a vase under
+running cold water. Then cut it into pieces as large as the palm of the
+hand and dip them in flour until they are well covered. Then put a
+kettle or a saucepan on the fire with plenty of oil and two or three
+cloves of garlic, whole but a little crushed. When the garlic begins to
+brown put in the codfish and brown it on both sides, stirring it often,
+so that it doesn't burn. Salt is not necessary, or at least only a
+little after tasting, but a little pepper will not be amiss. Finally
+pour over some tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted in water,
+let it boil a little more and serve.
+
+
+123
+
+II
+
+The following is another way to prepare the codfish, slightly different
+from the preceding. Cut the codfish as above, then put it as it is in
+saucepan with some olive oil. Spread over it a hash of garlic and
+parsley and season with a pinch of pepper, oil and little pieces of
+butter. Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, because, not being
+sprinkled with flour, it breaks easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a
+lemon over and serve.
+
+
+124
+
+FRIED CODFISH
+
+(Baccalá fritto)
+
+Place the codfish on the fire--after washing as explained in No. 107--in
+a kettle with cold water and as salt, and as soon as the water boils,
+remove the codfish.
+
+After boiling cut it in little pieces and remove all the bones. Sprinkle
+some flour and dip in a frying paste composed of water, flour and a
+little oil. Fry in oil and serve hot.
+
+
+125
+
+CODFISH CROQUETTES
+
+(Cotolette di baccalá)
+
+Boil as explained above and, if the quantity is one pound or a little
+more put together two anchovies and some parsley, chopping everything
+together very fine. Add some pepper, a tablespoonful of grated cheese,
+three or four tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of bread crumbs in large
+pieces, water and butter, and two eggs. Give the compound the form of
+several flat cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and in ground bread crumbs.
+Fry in oil and serve with lemon, or tomato sauce.
+
+
+126
+
+FRIED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo fritto)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in slices, not very thick, and place it in a plate with
+beaten eggs somewhat salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour
+before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of bread crumbs, grated
+cheese, garlic and parsley chopped fine, salt and pepper. A clove of
+garlic is sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in oil and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+127
+
+STEWED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo in umido)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in rather big pieces and then make a hash of garlic,
+parsley and very little onion. Put this hash on the fire with oil and
+when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces of dog-fish and season
+with salt and pepper. When the fish is cooked pour over some tomato
+sauce (No. 12), let this simmer for a while, then serve.
+
+
+128
+
+ROAST-BEEF
+
+(Arrosto)
+
+Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still it is prepared in a
+peculiar way by the Italians, and hence this recipe finds its place
+here.
+
+To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two pounds ought to be cooked
+on a strong fire. It ought to be covered with good olive oil and finally
+with cup of soup stock which with the oil and the juice from the meat
+will form a rich gravy. Salt it only when it is half cooked and do it
+moderately, because the beef is already tasty by itself.
+
+Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup is served and the meal
+begins. This will be sufficient if the piece is not very big. To
+ascertain the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin
+larding-pin, but not often, in order not to allow too much juice to
+escape. The juice must neither be of the color of the blood nor too
+dark.
+
+If baked it is to be seasoned with salt, oil and a piece of butter,
+surrounded by raw potatoes peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of broth or
+of water. If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it into slices and
+warm with butter and brown stock or tomato sauce.
+
+
+129
+
+ROAST VEAL
+
+(Arrosto di vitella)
+
+Choose for that milk veal that is to be found all the year round,
+although it is always better during the spring or summer.
+
+The piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a saucepan, slightly larded
+with garlic and rosemary, with oil, butter and a hash of corned beef,
+salt, pepper and tomato sauce. In the gravy fresh peas can be cooked.
+
+
+130
+
+POT ROAST
+
+(Arrosto morto)
+
+This can be done with all kinds of meats, but the best is milk veal.
+Take a good piece of the loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on
+the fire with good olive oil and butter, both in small quantity. Brown
+well from all sides, salt when half cooked and complete the cooking with
+a half cup of broth, seeing that little juice remains. If no broth is at
+hand, use tomato sauce, or tomato paste diluted with water. Some corned
+beef chopped fine can also be added.
+
+
+131
+
+POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY
+
+(Arrosto morto coll'odore dell'aglio e del ramerino)
+
+Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of garlic and one or two bunches
+of rosemary in the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the gravy
+through a sieve without pressing and surround the meat with potatoes or
+vegetables cooked apart.
+
+The leg of lamb comes very well in this way, baked in the oven.
+
+
+132
+
+BIRDS
+
+(Arrosto di uccelli)
+
+The best way to cook birds, and that nearly always used by the Italians,
+is roasted at the spit. They must be spitted with a small slice of bread
+between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very thin slices of bacon, in
+such a way that it can be spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the
+bacon almost as thin as paper. Pass some oil--only once--over when they
+begin to brown, using a brush or a feather, and salt only once,
+moderately.
+
+Put on the fire when near to be served, otherwise they may get dry and
+lose much of their flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good
+fire.
+
+
+133
+
+ROAST OF LAMB
+
+(Arrosto d'agnello)
+
+Take a leg of lamb and season it with salt, pepper, oil and a drop of
+vinegar. Pierce it here and there with the point of a knife and leave it
+like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay leaf or rosemary to
+be removed when serving. The leg of lamb can be baked or, as the
+Italians do, cooked at the spit.
+
+
+134
+
+LEG OF MUTTON
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato arrosto)
+
+Before cooking see that several days elapse after the animal has been
+butchered. This, naturally, according to the temperature. Beat it well
+with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the middle bone, without
+spoiling the meat. Then tie it and give it a good fire at the beginning,
+covering the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its own juice and in
+a cup of broth strained to remove the fat; nothing else. Salt when it is
+almost cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor rare, just
+medium. Serve with its juice apart in a sauce.
+
+
+135
+
+ROAST OF HARE
+
+(Arrosto di lepre)
+
+The part of the hare fitted for roast is the hind quarters, but the
+limbs of this game are covered with little skins that must be carefully
+removed, before cooking, without cutting the muscles.
+
+Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or fourteen hours in a liquid
+prepared as follows: put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of water
+with half a tumbler of vinegar or less in proportion with the piece to
+be cooked, three of four scallions chopped fine, one or two bay-leaves,
+a bunch of parsley, a little salt and a pinch of pepper; make it boil
+for five or six minutes, cool and pour when cold over the hare. When you
+remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard it all with little
+pieces of good bacon.
+
+Cook on a low fire, salt it sufficiently and grease with cream and
+nothing else. Never use the liver of the hare which, it is said, is very
+indigestible.
+
+
+136
+
+POT ROAST LARDED
+
+(Arrosto morto lardellato)
+
+Take a piece short and thick of beef or veal, quite tender and weighing
+about two pounds or a little more. Lard it with ham or bacon cut in
+little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a stewpan with a piece of
+butter, one fourth of a middle-sized onion cut in two pieces, three or
+four ribs of celery half an inch thick and as many slices of carrot.
+Season with salt and pepper and when the meat begins to brown--turning
+it often--pour over one cup of water and complete the cooking on a low
+fire, leaving it to absorb great part of the gravy. See, however, that
+it doesn't dry up and become black. When you send to the table strain
+the juice that has remained and pour it on the meat, that may be
+surrounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept whole if small,
+previously browned in butter or oil.
+
+
+137
+
+PIGEON SURPRISE
+
+(Piccione a sorpresa)
+
+The pigeon (or chicken) must be opened and stuffed with a cutlet of milk
+veal. Of course this cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well
+to render it thinner and more tender, season with salt, pepper, a pinch
+of spices and little pieces of butter, roll it and put inside the pigeon
+sewing the opening. The liver and giblets of the pigeon can be cooked
+apart in brown stock or in butter, after being chopped. With the
+resulting gravy the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the different
+flavor of the two qualities of meat is better amalgamated.
+
+
+138
+
+STUFFED BEEF CUTLET
+
+(Braciuola di manzo ripiena)
+
+The ingredients for this dish are a slice of beef half an inch thick,
+weighing about one pound, half a pound or less of lean milk veal, two
+small slices of ham and two or three of tongue, one scant tablespoonful
+of grated cheese, a piece of butter, two chicken livers, one egg, a
+crumb of bread as large as a closed fist.
+
+Make a hash with a small onion, a little celery, carrot and parsley, put
+it on the fire with the butter and when it is browned, place in the
+saucepan the veal cut in small pieces and the chicken livers, season
+with little salt and pepper and complete the cooking with a little
+broth. Remove the veal and chicken when cooked, and chop them fine. In
+the gravy that remains make a pap rather hard with the crumb of bread,
+moistening with broth if necessary. Now mix the chopped meat, the pap,
+the eggs, the cheese, the ham and tongue cut in little pieces. When the
+stuffing is composed thus, dip the cutlet in water, in order to stretch
+it better, beat it with the back of the knife and flatten with its
+blades. Put the stuffing inside and roll up and tie tightly with a
+string crosswise. Roast or bake with oil and salt.
+
+
+139
+
+STUFFED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo ripieno)
+
+For a middle-sized fowl use the following ingredients: two sausages, the
+liver and giblets of the fowl, eight or ten chestnuts well roasted, some
+pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg, one egg. If, instead of a fowl,
+it is a turkey, double the dose.
+
+Begin by giving the sausages and the giblets half a cooking, moistening
+them with a little broth if necessary. Season with a little salt and
+pepper on account of the sausages that already contain them. Remove them
+and in the gravy that remains put a crumb of bread, in order to obtain
+with a little broth two tablespoonfuls of thick pap. Skin the sausages,
+chop the chicken giblets and the giblets and grind everything together
+with the chestnuts, the egg and the pap; this is the stuffing with which
+the fowl is to be filled, to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold
+than hot, and it can also be cut better.
+
+
+140
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE
+
+(Pollo al diavolo)
+
+This ought to be cooked with Cayenne pepper and served with a highly
+seasoned sauce, but not everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook
+the chicken "al diavolo" is the following:
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and the legs, open it all in front
+and flatten it open as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a towel,
+then put it on the grill and when it begins to brown turn it. Grease it
+with melted butter or with oil, using a brush, and season with salt and
+pepper. The later may be Cayenne pepper for those who like it. Keep
+turning and greasing until it is all cooked.
+
+To prepare the sauce piquante that many like with chicken broiled in
+this way, put four tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and when it
+begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it is
+well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the
+range and slowly add two cupfuls of brown stock, stirring constantly,
+add salt and a dash of Cayenne and let simmer for ten minutes. In
+another saucepan boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar one tablespoonful
+of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar rapidly for five minutes;
+then add it to the sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful of
+chopped capers two tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle and one teaspoonful
+of tarragon vinegar. Stir well and let cook for two minutes to heat the
+pickles. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little water.
+
+This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all roasts and boiled meats,
+besides being a fitting condiment for the chicken "al diavolo".
+
+
+141
+
+CHICKEN WITH HAM
+
+(Pollo in porchetta)
+
+Fill a chicken with thin strips of ham, about half an inch wide. Add
+three cloves (or sections) of garlic, two little bunches of fennel and a
+few grains of pepper. Season outside with salt and pepper and cook in a
+saucepan with butter, or preferably bake in the oven. Sausages cut
+lengthwise and previously skinned can be substituted for the ham.
+
+
+142
+
+CHICKEN SAUTÉ
+
+(Pollo saltato)
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and trim the wings. Cut away the
+legs. Cut the chicken into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. Beat
+an egg with a teaspoonful of water and place in it the pieces of chicken
+after dipping them in flour and seasoning generously with salt and
+pepper. Leave the pieces in the egg until it is time for cooking. Then
+take the pieces one by one, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place a
+saucepan with a good piece of butter on the fire. When the butter begins
+to brown put in the pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then
+turn them when browned to the other side. Let them on a good fire for
+about ten minutes. Serve with lemon. The chicken prepared in this way is
+good also when cold.
+
+
+143
+
+AFRICAN HEN
+
+(Gallina di Faraone)
+
+This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should not be too fresh, like
+all game.
+
+The best way to cook the African hen is roasted at the spit. Put in the
+inside a ball of butter dipped in salt and wrap it in a piece of paper
+greased with butter and sprinkled with salt. This paper must be removed
+when the fowl is nearly cooked, and then the cooking is completed
+greasing with more butter and adding more salt.
+
+
+144
+
+TAME DUCK ROASTED
+
+(Anatra domestica arrosto)
+
+Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with slices of bacon, large
+and thin. Grease with oil and salt moderately when the cooking is almost
+complete. If you have a wild duck grease with butter, as the meat is
+drier.
+
+
+145
+
+TURKEY
+
+(Tacchino)
+
+The turkey has been imported to Europe from America, but it is
+nevertheless a well known dish in Italian families, although not
+enjoying the popularity that it has on this side of the ocean. When
+roasted it is generally larded moderately with little pieces of garlic
+and bay-leaf or rosemary and seasoned with a hash of corned beef or
+bacon, a little butter, salt and pepper, tomato sauce or tomato paste
+diluted in water. The breast, flattened until it is about half an inch
+thick and seasoned generously some hours before cooking with oil, salt
+and pepper, is excellent broiled on the grill.
+
+
+146
+
+LOIN OF PORK ROASTED
+
+(Lombo di maiale arrosto)
+
+The loin of pork, cut in little pieces forms an excellent roast at the
+spit. The pieces of pork are to be divided by little pieces of toast and
+greased with oil.
+
+If the pork is to be baked, choose that piece of the loin that has its
+ribs and that may weigh six or eight pounds. Lard it with garlic,
+rosemary or bay leaf and a few cloves, but moderately, and season with
+salt and pepper.
+
+This roast is very popular in Italy, where they call it =arista=.
+
+
+147
+
+LEG OF LAMB
+
+(Agnello all'Orientale)
+
+This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient and adopted by the
+Italians, especially in Southern Italy. The leg of lamb is to be larded
+with the larding pin with slices of bacon seasoned with salt and pepper,
+greased with butter or milk, or milk alone and salted when half cooked.
+
+The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do not lard it, as pork is
+forbidden by their religion, but cook it with an abundance of milk.
+
+
+148
+
+BROILED PIGEON
+
+(Piccione in gratella)
+
+Take a young, but fat pigeon, divide it in two parts lengthwise and
+flatten it well with the hands. Then put it to brown in oil for four or
+five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season when still hot with salt
+and pepper, then arrange it as follows.
+
+Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of butter and mix the
+liquid butter with one beaten egg. Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg
+and keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with bread crumbs
+ground fine. Cook on a grill on a low fire and serve with a sauce or a
+side dish.
+
+
+149
+
+STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN
+
+(Bistecca nel tegame)
+
+If you have a steak that does not appear to be too tender, put it in a
+saucepan with a little piece of butter and some good olive oil, with a
+taste of garlic and bay-leaf or rosemary. Add, if necessary, a little
+broth or water or tomato sauce and serve with potatoes cooked in the
+gravy that can be made more abundant with more broth, butter and tomato
+sauce.
+
+
+150
+
+VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY
+
+(Rognone alle acciughe)
+
+Take a veal kidney, remove the fat, cut it open and cover with boiling
+water. When the water has cooled, remove the kidney, wipe with a cloth,
+and pass through it clean sticks to make it stay open. Season with
+melted butter, salt and pepper and leave it so prepared for an hour or
+two.
+
+Then take another piece of butter and two or three anchovies. Clean the
+latter, chop and mix with the butter with the blade of a knife, making a
+ball. Cook the kidney on the grill, but not too much, in order to keep
+it tender, put it on a plate and grease when hot with the ball of butter
+and anchovies.
+
+
+151
+
+VEAL KIDNEY SLICED
+
+(Rognone di vitello affettato)
+
+Cut in thin slices one or two veal kidneys, removing the granulous part
+that is to be found in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan with
+a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley chopped very fine together with a
+clove of garlic. Add a cup of hot broth; salt moderately and let it cook
+without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to about one third.
+
+One tablespoonful of vinegar adds a pleasant taste to this dish.
+
+
+152
+
+BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY
+
+(Rognone di montone alla graticola)
+
+After washing the kidneys, remove the filmy skin that covers them and
+cut them in the middle without, however, detaching completely the two
+parts. Season with salt and pepper, grease with oil and put them on a
+strong fire on the grill. After ten or twelve minutes they will be
+broiled. Serve hot with parsley and slices of lemon.
+
+
+153
+
+MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED
+
+(Granelli di montone fritti)
+
+Wash, remove the skin that covers the kidneys and cut in very thin
+slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip first in ground bread crumbs, then in a
+beaten egg mixed with melted butter, then again in the bread crumbs.
+This must be done rapidly, at the time of frying, otherwise the bread
+crumbs absorb the moisture of the kidney and make them too hard.
+
+Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan on a strong fire and when it begins
+to brown, dip the slices of kidney. Turn often, sprinkle with a little
+parsley chopped fine, salt and serve with lemon.
+
+
+154
+
+BEEF TONGUE BOILED
+
+(Lingua di bue lessa)
+
+The tongue is boiled like the beef. When half cooked remove the skin,
+which is not nice to see and has no nutritious elements, although it is
+served with a purée of peas, or spinach or potatoes or beans, etc.
+But it can be served simply with sprigs of parsley.
+
+
+155
+
+BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES
+
+(Lingua di bue alle olive)
+
+Scald the tongue and peel off the skin. Then put it back to boil until
+fully cooked.
+
+Melt a piece of butter and brown half a medium sized onion cut in
+slices. When the onion is browned remove it from the butter and dilute
+in the latter a teaspoonful of flour. When the flour begins to brown,
+thin it with one or two cups of soup stock hot and passed through a
+sieve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.
+
+When the sauce is prepared place the tongue in the saucepan containing
+it and let it cook again on a low fire for about an hour, turning it
+over frequently and keeping it moistened with the gravy. Cut some olives
+in a spiral to remove the stone and place it in the saucepan with the
+tongue. This becomes more tasty if left with the olives for one or two
+days.
+
+
+156
+
+STEWED BEEF TONGUE
+
+(Lingua di bue in stufato)
+
+Clean a fresh tongue of beef; put it in a plate, salt it generously and
+put it back in the ice-box or in the pantry, until the following day.
+
+After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling water, skin and lard with
+little pieces of bacon and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in
+which the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning consists of 1/2
+lb. bacon cut in very thin slices, 1/4 lb. butter, one or two thin
+slices of ham and two middle sized onions, sliced. Sprinkle the tongue
+with flour, surround it with chopped meat and place the saucepan on the
+fire. When the tongue begins to brown, pour five or six cups of soup
+stock and one cup of water. Add the usual bunch of greens, two or three
+cloves, salt, a pinch of pepper and one of cinnamon.
+
+Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four hours, rub the sauce
+through a sieve and serve everything hot.
+
+
+157
+
+VEAL SWEETBREADS
+
+(Animelle di vitello)
+
+Keep in fresh water for an hour. Then place them in a skimmer (ladle
+with holes) and dip in boiling water or broth. After a brief boiling
+remove and cool in cold water. Then remove the veins and gullet, taking
+care not to tear them. The sweetbreads are prepared in various ways and
+here we give some of the best known:
+
+=Sweetbreads with butter.=--Boil in broth or water, clean and cut into
+slices. Brown a piece of butter with salt and pepper. Then place the
+sliced sweetbreads and brown them. Before serving squeeze on a little
+lemon juice. The sweetbreads prepared in this way are served preferably
+with rice or vegetables.
+
+=Sweetbreads with white sauce.=--Boiled, cleaned and cut into slices,
+they are placed in white sauce or =balsamella= (No. 54) adding a taste
+of nutmeg, pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon.
+
+=Sweetbreads in fricassee.=--Boil, trim and cut into pieces. Then brown
+in butter with a scallion chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the
+gravy in which pour a tablespoonful of flour, moistened with broth. The
+sauce that results is bound with egg-yolks and lemon juice.
+
+=Sweetbreads fried.=--Boil and trim. Then cut in large slices, neither
+too thick nor too thin. Dip in beaten egg and in bread crumbs ground.
+Then fry in butter. Serve with vegetables.
+
+
+158
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES
+
+(Filetto alla piemontese)
+
+Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little skins. Then sprinkle
+with nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and place in an earthen vase
+covered, together with a bunch of aromatic herbs, sage, parsley,
+rosemary, onion, carrot and celery, all chopped fine. After a few hours
+melt and brown a piece of butter with the aromatic herbs, then remove
+the latter and place the tenderloin, leaving it to simmer for half an
+hour, pricking it often with a large fork or a larding pin, to add its
+juice to the gravy. Serve hot.
+
+
+159
+
+STUFFED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle ripiene)
+
+Boil six large onions for an hour. Then drain and skin. Remove the heart
+with the point of a knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing
+made with 1/4 lb. ham or tongue, chopped and mixed with bread crumbs
+ground, two tablespoonfuls of milk, two pinches of salt and one of
+pepper. When the onions are prepared and stuffed place them in a
+saucepan whose bottom has been greased with butter, sprinkle with bread
+crumbs ground and place in the oven, not too hot. At the time of serving
+add some white sauce or =balsamella= (No 54). Stuffed onions are served
+as vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or boiled-beef.
+
+
+160
+
+STEWED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle in stufato)
+
+Keep in cold water, for half an hour, two pounds of middle-sized onions.
+Afterward skin and place in a saucepan in which pour as much broth as is
+necessary to cover them. Let them cook on a low fire for an hour, if
+they are scallions, or young onions. If they are not, two hours are not
+enough, sometimes.
+
+When cooked and soft, drain and place in a large deep dish. Brown a
+piece of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, a cup of broth, salt and
+pepper. Mix everything and when it begins to boil pour the sauce on the
+onions, which must be served hot.
+
+
+161
+
+VEAL LIVER
+
+(Fegato di vitella alla veneziana)
+
+Brown a large onion cut in thin slices in oil and place in the saucepan
+the liver cut in thin slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When
+the liver takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is overdone, it
+becomes too hard. Salt just before removing from the saucepan.
+
+
+162
+
+FRIED LIVER
+
+(Fegato al tegame)
+
+Clean and trim the liver, then cut in slices half an inch thick. Dip in
+flour and place, without delay in a saucepan in which a small onion has
+been browned in butter. Salt just before serving.
+
+
+163
+
+POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta colle salsicce)
+
+The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern Italy and can be
+prepared in various ways. Always, however, it is better to serve with
+the addition of sausages, or with birds or tomato paste.
+
+The =polenta= is practically cornmeal and it is made with the so-called
+=farina gialla= or yellow flour.
+
+The ingredients for a good polenta are one pound of corn meal,
+preferably granulous, one quart and a half of water, salted in
+proportion, one piece of butter, one cup and a half of milk.
+
+Pour the meal little by little into boiling water, continually stirring
+with a wooden spoon. When the meal is half cooked, put the butter and
+pour the milk little by little. While the =polenta= boils, place on the
+fire in a little saucepan a tablespoonful of olive oil or a small piece
+of butter. When the oil is hot or the butter is melted, put some
+sausages repeatedly pricked with a fork.
+
+When the sausages are cooked, pour the polenta hot in a dish and place
+the sausages and the gravy in a cavity practised in the middle. Serve
+hot.
+
+In cooking the sausages two or three bay-leaves may be added and removed
+before serving.
+
+
+164
+
+SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS
+
+(Salsicce alla cipollata)
+
+The =salsicce alla cipollata= are prepared with fresh and lean pork meat
+and bacon in equal quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with salt,
+pepper and spices. Add a proportional quantity of onions chopped very
+fine, not too much, however. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails,
+tie every two inches to divide the sausages.
+
+
+CELERY
+
+(Sedano)
+
+Beside being used as a condiment with a great quantity of dishes, the
+celery may be prepared in various different ways to form appetizing
+vegetable dishes. We give here a certain number of those that appear
+most commonly on Italian tables:
+
+
+165
+
+CELERY WITH BUTTER
+
+(Sedano al burro)
+
+Two heads of celery for each person.
+
+Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are too hard, and the leaves,
+that are to be cut where they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem.
+Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain and put to boil in salted
+boiling water. Remove when cooked and drain again.
+
+About three quarters of an hour before serving, melt a piece of butter
+in a saucepan and brown the celery, turning them often for about ten
+minutes. After that pour over hot stock (soup stock or chicken broth)
+cover the saucepan and parboil. A few moments before serving season with
+brown stock, if you have any at hand, otherwise with salt and pepper
+only.
+
+
+166
+
+CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Sedano al sugo)
+
+Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor too soft, and cut them
+about four inches from the root. Remove the green and hard branches and
+trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. Scald the celery, after
+washing well, in salted boiling water. Ten minutes will be sufficient.
+Dip in cold water, open well the leaves and wash again carefully. Drain
+and make bunches of two or three heads each that you will put in a
+saucepan with a pint of broth or water and half a cup of good fat, onion
+and carrot chopped, salt and pepper. Cover and let it simmer for about
+two hour. Then remove the celery, drain and serve.
+
+
+167
+
+SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Salsa per sedani al sugo)
+
+The celery, prepared as above, are seasoned with the following sauce:
+Make a =roux= melting a piece of butter and browning an equal weight of
+flour; stir for about three minutes on the fire, after which thin the
+roux with a little brown stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in water.
+Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub through a sieve, pour
+over the celery and serve very hot.
+
+
+168
+
+FRIED CELERY
+
+(Sedani fritti)
+
+This is a convenient way to prepare left-over celery that is still too
+good to be thrown away.
+
+Clean the left-over celery removing as best you can the sauce in which
+they were served, dip in frying paste (flour and egg) fry and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+169
+
+PURÉE OF CELERY
+
+(Macco di sedani)
+
+Take some big roots of celery, prepare as usual and wash in running
+water. Boil in salted water, crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a
+saucepan this purée, with a piece of butter, salt, flour and a little
+cream or milk. The milk may be substituted with good soup stock or brown
+stock. Just before serving add a little powdered sugar.
+
+
+170
+
+STEW
+
+(Stufato)
+
+The Italian =stufato= is somewhat different from the stewed meat that
+is known under the name of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French
+=daube= and is prepared in Italy in many different ways.
+
+An excellent =stufato= can be made in the following way: Chop fine two
+bunches of parsley, a small carrot, half a medium sized onion, a little
+piece of scallion and two bay-leaves. Brown with a good piece of butter
+in a saucepan in which one and a half tablespoonful of oil have been
+previously poured.
+
+The meat must have been prepared beforehand, that is to say washed,
+trimmed and larded. When half cooked, season moderately with salt and
+pepper. If necessary, moisten with broth or water. During the cooking
+the saucepan must be covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper
+greased with fat or oil. The stufato will be ready after about three
+hours' cooking on a low fire.
+
+
+171
+
+SOUTHERN STEW
+
+(Stufato Meridionale)
+
+Put the piece of meat in a saucepan of such a size that it remains
+completely filled, moisten with two cups of water and two of white wine,
+season with salt and pepper and cook for five hours on a low fire.
+
+
+172
+
+STEW MILANAISE
+
+(Stufato alla milanese)
+
+Beat and flatten a good piece of meat and lard with bacon or ham cut in
+small pieces. Season with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Sprinkle
+flour over the meat.
+
+Place in a saucepan a little fat of beef chopped with a middle sized
+onion and brown with a piece of butter. When the onion is browned,
+remove it and place the meat over the melted butter. Brown with melted
+butter. Then fill the saucepan with half water, half red wine, but only
+when the meat is browned from all sides. Cover the saucepan the best you
+can, with cover and greased paper and let it simmer for five or six
+hours on a very low fire.
+
+After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the gravy through a sieve, put
+again on the fire and serve hot.
+
+
+173
+
+FRENCH STEW
+
+(Stufato alla francese)
+
+Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer of thin slices of ham, on
+which place several little cubes also of bacon. In the middle place a
+bunch of parsley, and around this some cloves, half an onion sliced, a
+few carrots in little cubes several young onions, bay-leaf, salt, and
+pepper.
+
+On this bed lay the meat that may be larded with bacon or ham and
+seasoned with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Pour on the meat two
+cups of soup stock or water and one cup of white wine. Cover the
+saucepan hermetically and cook on a very low fire for five hours.
+
+When the stufato is to be served cold, the gravy is to be rubbed
+through a sieve before it gets cold.
+
+     =Note.=--In these and similar dishes we have indicated the use of
+     wine, which is a common ingredient, in small quantities in Italian
+     and French cooking. This, however, can always be dispensed with if
+     its taste is not appreciated, or for any other reason.
+
+
+174
+
+TROUT ALPINE
+
+(Trota all'alpigiana)
+
+These are many ways to prepare this delicious fish, found in abundance
+in the many streams of clear water that run from the Alps and the
+Apennine mountains. Often the trout is cooked in wine, but, of course,
+this part many be changed.
+
+For the =trota all'alpigiana=, so called because it is the favorite dish
+of Piedmont, the trout must be cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then
+salted and left under the action of the salt for about an hour.
+
+Pour in a fish-kettle one quart of white wine to which will be added
+three medium sized onions a few cloves, two sections of garlic and a
+little bunch made of thyme, bay-leaf, basil or mint; finally a piece of
+butter as large as an egg, dipped in flour. Then put the trout in the
+fish-kettle and place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled the
+trout is cooked. Remove the onions and the bunch of greens and serve the
+trout with its gravy and some parsley.
+
+
+175
+
+TROUT LOMBARD
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Clean, scale, wash and wipe the trout. Salt and leave for half an hour.
+Fill with water half a fish-kettle; add half a lemon, two bay-leaves,
+one carrot light or ten berries of pepper, one onion divided into four
+parts, salt and three cloves. When the water is lukewarm, dip in the
+trout. Cook on a moderate fire and serve the trout with parsley, slices
+of lemon and young potatoes boiled. A good fish-sauce ought to accompany
+it.
+
+
+176
+
+FRIED TROUT
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Small and young trouts are best for frying. Scale, clean, wash and wipe.
+Then dip in flour and fry like the other fish in oil or in butter. Serve
+with browned parsley and lemon.
+
+
+177
+
+TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES
+
+(Trota alle acciughe)
+
+Scale, clean wash and wipe the trouts. Cut the sides and place to pickle
+with salt, pepper berries, garlic, parsley and onions chopped fine; with
+mushrooms chopped fine with thyme, bay-leaf and mint, all seasoned with
+good olive oil. Rub the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and
+the trout in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve with anchovy
+sauce (No. 17).
+
+
+178
+
+EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Uova trippate)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, shell and cut into disks one third of an
+inch thick.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter in which brown half an onion cut
+into thin slices, to be removed from the butter when browned. Then add
+to the butter two teaspoonfuls of flour, mix but don't allow to brown,
+thin with a cup of hot broth, add salt and pepper and let simmer for ten
+minutes. Put the sliced eggs in the sauce to warm them, stir a little,
+but carefully to avoid breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before
+serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of cream and stir carefully.
+
+
+179
+
+EGGS WITH HAM
+
+(Uova al prosciutto)
+
+Place in a frying pan as many pieces of butter, large like a nut, as
+there are eggs to be cooked. For each piece of butter put a little slice
+of ham and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as the butter is
+melted break an egg on each slice of ham. Let cook for ten minutes on a
+moderate fire.
+
+
+180
+
+EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Uova al pomidoro)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, cut them through the middle lengthwise,
+place in good order upon a plate and pour some good tomato sauce, taking
+care not to cover the upper part of the eggs, which must emerge from the
+sauce.
+
+Instead of the tomato, the eggs may be arranged with a =balsamella=
+sauce (No. 54).
+
+
+181
+
+SCRAMBLED EGGS
+
+(Uova strapazzate)
+
+Break the eggs in a plate, assuring first that they are all fresh.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter about as big as an egg. When it is
+melted pour the egg and scramble them with a fork on a low fire.
+
+When the eggs are cooked season moderately with salt and butter. Just
+when you take them away from the fire and before serving add a
+tablespoonful of milk or liquid cream. Serve hot with a little grated
+cheese.
+
+The scrambled eggs can be served with points of asparagus, truffles,
+mushrooms, etc. which are prepared just as if they were to go in an
+omelet.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, SYRUPS
+
+
+182
+
+PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS
+
+(Budino di nocciuole)
+
+Shell half a pound of hazelnuts in warm water and dry them well at the
+sun or on the fire, then grind them very fine, together with sugar, of a
+weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one quart of milk on the fire,
+and when it begins to boil, put two third lb. lady fingers or macaroons
+crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding a small piece of
+butter. Rub everything through a sieve and put back on the fire with the
+nuts to dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs, first the
+yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a mold greased with butter and
+sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not be all full.
+Bake in the oven and serve cold.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten persons.
+
+
+183
+
+CRISP BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti croccanti)
+
+  One pound of flour.
+  Half a pound granulated sugar.
+  1/4 lb. sweet almonds, whole and shelled, mixed to a few pine-seeds.
+  A piece of butter, one and a half ounce.
+  A pinch of anise-seeds.
+  Five eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Leave back the almonds and pine-seeds to add them afterward, and mix
+everything with four eggs, so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to
+make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half an inch thick and as
+large as a hand, place them in a receptacle greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs. Bake in the
+oven, but only as much as will still permit cutting the cakes into
+slices, which you will do the day after, as the crust will then be
+softened. Put the slices back in the oven, so that they will be toasted
+on both sides and you will have the crisp biscuits.
+
+
+184
+
+SOFT BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti teneri)
+
+For these biscuits it would be necessary to have a tin box about four
+inches wide and a little less long than the oven used. In this way the
+biscuits will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little more than
+half an inch, they will be of the right proportion. The ingredients
+needed are:
+
+  Flour, about two ounces.
+  Potato meal, a little less.
+  Sugar, four ounces (1/4 lb.)
+  Sweet almonds 1-1/2 ounce.
+  Candied orange or angelica, one ounce.
+  Fruit preserve, one ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+
+Skin the almonds, cut them in half lengthwise and dry in the sun or at
+the fire. Pastry cooks usually leave them with the skin but it is much
+preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the candied fruits and the
+preserve.
+
+Stir for a long while, about half an hour the sugar in the egg-yolks and
+a little flour then add the white of the eggs well beaten and when every
+thing is well beaten add the flour, letting it fall from a sieve. Mix
+slowly and scatter on the mixing the almonds and the cubes of candied
+and preserved fruit. Grease and sprinkle the tin box with flour. Bake in
+the oven and cut the biscuits the day after. If desired these can also
+be roasted on both sides.
+
+
+185
+
+BISCUITS SULTAN
+
+(Biscotto alla sultana)
+
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces.
+  Flour, four ounces.
+  Potato meal, two ounces.
+  Currants, three ounces.
+  Candied fruits, one ounce.
+  Five eggs.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+  Two tablespoonfuls of brandy.
+
+Put first on the fire the currants and the candied fruits cut in very
+little cubes with as much brandy or cognac as is necessary to cover
+them: when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn out of the fire
+until the liquor is all consumed: then remove the currants and candy and
+let them dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour the sugar
+with the egg-yolks and the taste of lemon peel. Beat well the white of
+the eggs and pour them on the sugar and yolks. Add the flour and potato
+meal letting them fall from a sieve and stir slowly until everything is
+well mixed together. Add the currants and the pieces of candied fruits
+and pour the mixing in a smooth mold or in a high and round cake-dish.
+Grease the mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar
+or flour. Put at once in the oven to avoid that the currants and the
+candied fruits fall in the oven.
+
+
+186
+
+MARGHERITA CAKE
+
+(Pasta Margherita)
+
+  Potato meal, three ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Lemon juice.
+
+Beat well the egg-yolks with the sugar, add the potato meal and the
+lemon juice and stir everything for half an hour. Finally beat well the
+whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually but slowly. Pour the
+mixture in a smooth and round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled
+with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven.
+
+Remove from the mold when cold and dust with powdered sugar and vanilla.
+
+
+187
+
+MANTUA TART
+
+(Torta Mantovana)
+
+  Flour, six ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Butter, five ounces.
+  Sweet almonds and pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  One whole egg.
+  Four egg-yolks.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First work well with a ladle the eggs with the sugar, then pour the
+flour little by little, still stirring, and finally the butter,
+previously melted in a double steamer (bain-marie). Put the mixture in a
+pie-dish greased with butter and sprinkled with flour or bread crumbs
+ground. On top put the almonds and the pine-seeds. Cut the latter in
+half and cut the almonds, previously skinned in warm water, each in
+eight or ten pieces. This tart must not be thicker than one inch, so
+that it can dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot.
+
+Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold.
+
+
+188
+
+CURLY TART
+
+(Torta ricciolina)
+
+  Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones, four ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces,
+  Candied fruits or angelica, 2-1/2 ounces,
+  Butter, two ounces,
+  Lemon peel.
+
+Mix two eggs with flour, flatten the paste to a thin sheet on a bread
+board and cut into thin noodles. In a corner of the bread board make a
+heap of the almonds with the sugar, the candied fruit cut in pieces and
+the grated lemon peel. All this cut and crush so as to reduce the
+mixture in little pieces. Then take a pie-dish and without greasing it,
+spread a layer of noodles on the bottom, then pour part of the mixture,
+then another layer of noodles and continue until there remains no more
+material, trying to have the tart at least one inch thick. When it is so
+prepared cover with the melted butter, using a brush to apply it evenly.
+
+
+189
+
+ALMOND CAKE
+
+(Bocca di dama)
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Very fine Hungarian flour, five ounces,
+  Sweet almonds with some bitter ones, two ounces,
+  Six whole eggs and three egg yolks,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+After skinning the almonds in warm water and drying them well, grind or
+better pound them well together with a tablespoonful of sugar and mix
+well with the flour. Put the rest of the sugar in a deep dish with the
+egg yolks and the grated lemon peel (just a taste) and stir with a ladle
+for a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the six whites of egg and
+when they have become quite thick mix them with other ingredients
+stirring slowly everything together.
+
+To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin greased evenly with butter and
+sprinkled with powdered sugar and flour.
+
+
+190
+
+CORN MEAL CAKES
+
+(Pasta di farina gialla)
+
+  Corn meal, seven and a half ounces,
+  Wheat flour, five and a half ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, five and a half ounces,
+  Butter, three and a half ounces,
+  Lard, two ounces,
+  A pinch of anise seed,
+  One egg.
+
+Mix together the corn meal, the flour and the anise seed and knead with
+the butter, the lard and the egg that quantity that you can, forming a
+loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to be kneaded with water
+forming another loaf. Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not
+much because the dough must remain soft. Flatten with the rolling pin
+until it becomes one quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with flour, and
+cut in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.
+
+Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with flour, glaze with the egg,
+bake and dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+191
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Biscotto)
+
+  Six eggs,
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Flour, four ounces,
+  Potato meal, two ounces,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and
+a tablespoonful only of the flour and meal, using a ladle. Beat the
+whites of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly with the first
+mixture and when they are well incorporated pour over from a sieve the
+flour and the potato meal, previously dried in the sun or on the fire.
+
+Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about one inch and a half thick,
+previously greasing the tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered
+sugar mixed with flour.
+
+In these cakes with beaten whites the following method can also be
+followed: mix and stir first the yolks with the sugar, then put the
+flour then, after a good kneading, beat the whites until they are firm,
+pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the mixture, then the rest little by
+little.
+
+
+192
+
+CAKE MADELEINE
+
+(Pasta Maddalena)
+
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces,
+  Flour, three ounces,
+  Butter, one ounce,
+  Egg-yolks, four,
+  Whites of eggs, three,
+  A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda,
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and when they have become
+whitish, add the flour and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the
+butter, melting or softening it fine if it is hard and finally add the
+whites when they are well beaten. The flour must be previously dried in
+the sun or on the fire.
+
+This cake may be given different shapes, but keep it always thin and in
+little volume. It can be put in little molds greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it not more than
+half an inch thick, and cutting it after baking in the shape of diamonds
+and dusting with powdered sugar.
+
+
+193
+
+ALMOND CRISP-TART
+
+(Croccante)
+
+  Sweet almonds, four and a half ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, three and a half ounces.
+
+Skin the almonds, divide the two parts and cut each part into small
+pieces. Put these almonds so cut at the fire and dry them until they
+take a yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put the sugar on the
+fire in a saucepan and, when it is perfectly melted, pour the almonds
+hot and already slightly browned. Now lower the fire and be careful not
+to allow the compound to be overdone. The precise point is known when
+the mixture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little by little in a
+cold mold, previously greased with butter or oil. Press with a lemon
+against the walls of the mold, making the mixture as thin as possible.
+Remove from the mold when perfectly cooled and, if it is difficult to do
+so, dip the mold in boiling water.
+
+The almonds can also be dried in the sun and chopped fine, adding a
+small piece of butter when they are in the sugar.
+
+
+194
+
+WAFER BISCUITS
+
+(Cialdoni)
+
+Put in a kettle:
+
+  Flour, three ounces.
+  Brown sugar, one ounce.
+  Lard virgin, half an ounce.
+  Cold water, seven tablespoonfuls.
+
+First dilute the flour and the sugar in the water, then add the lard.
+
+Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an appropriated iron for
+flattened wafers. When it is quite hot open it and place each time half
+a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press well. Pass over
+the fire on both sides, trim all around with a knife and open the iron
+when you see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it from one side of
+the iron and hot as it is roll it on the iron itself or on a napkin
+using a little stick. This operation must be made with great rapidity
+because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot be rolled.
+
+Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, grease it from time to
+time, and if they are not firm enough, add a little flour.
+
+These wafer-biscuits are generally served with whipped cream.
+
+
+195
+
+QUINCE CAKE
+
+(Cotognata)
+
+The ingredients are about six pounds of quinces and four pounds of
+granulated sugar.
+
+Put on the fire the apples covered with water, and when they begin to
+crack remove them, skin and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the
+latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the fire with the sugar and
+stir continually in order that it may not attack to the bottom of the
+kettle. It will be enough to boil for seven or eight minutes and remove
+when it begins to form pieces when lifted with the ladle.
+
+Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread it on a board to the
+thickness of about a silver dollar and dry it in the sun covered with
+cheese cloth to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut it in the form
+of chocolate tablets and remove each piece from the board passing the
+blade of a knife underneath.
+
+If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about three and a half pounds of
+granulated sugar with two tablespoonfuls of water and when the sugar has
+boiled enough to "make the thread" smear every one of the little quince
+cakes with it. If the sugar becomes too hard during the operation put it
+back on the fire with a little water and make it boil again. When the
+sugar is dry on one side and on the edge, smear the other side.
+
+
+196
+
+PORTUGUESE CAKE
+
+(Focaccia alla Portoghese)
+
+  Sweet almonds, five ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, five ounces.
+  Potato meal, one and a half ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+  One big orange or two small.
+
+First mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, then add the flour, then
+the almonds skinned and chopped fine, then the orange juice (through a
+colander) then a taste of orange peel. Finally add to the mixture the
+whites of the eggs well beaten. Put in a paper mold greased evenly with
+butter, with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a very moderately
+hot oven. After baked, cover with a white glaze or frost, made with
+powdered sugar, lemon juice and the white of eggs.
+
+
+197
+
+MACAROONS
+
+(Amaretti)
+
+I
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three and a half ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, half of the above quantity.
+  Whites of egg, two.
+
+Skin and dry the almonds, then chop them very fine. Mix the sugar and
+the whites of egg and stir for about half an hour, then add the almonds
+to form a rather hard paste. Of this make little balls, as large as a
+small walnut. If the paste is too soft add a little butter, if too hard
+add a little white of egg, this time beaten. Were it desired to give the
+macaroons a brownish color, mix with the paste a little burnt sugar.
+
+As you form the little ball, that you will flatten to the thickness of
+one third of an inch, put them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with half flour and half
+powdered sugar. Dispose them at a certain distance from one another as
+they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty inside.
+
+Bake in an oven moderately hot.
+
+II
+
+  Powdered sugar, ten and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, one ounce.
+  Two whites of egg.
+
+Skin the almonds and dry them in the sun or on the fire, then chop and
+grind very fine with one white of egg poured in various times. When this
+is done, put half of the sugar, stirring and kneading with your hand.
+Then pour everything in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of the
+other white of egg, then the other half of the sugar and finally the
+other half of the white.
+
+In this way an homogenous mixture will be obtained of the right
+firmness. Shake into a kind of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal,
+one third of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with moistened
+fingers and make little balls as large as a walnut. Flatten them to the
+thickness of a third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said above,
+but dust with powdered sugar before putting in a hot oven.
+
+With this dose about thirty macarons can be obtained.
+
+
+198
+
+FARINA CAKES
+
+(Pasticcini di semolino)
+
+  Farina, six and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Four eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and when it begins to thicken pour the
+pine-seeds, previously chopped fine and pounded with the sugar, then the
+butter and the rest, less the eggs which must be put in last when the
+mixture has completely cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little
+molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, and bake.
+
+
+199
+
+RICE TART
+
+(Torta di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with four bitter ones, three and a half ounces.
+  Candied cedar (angelica), one ounce.
+  Three whole eggs.
+  Five egg-yolks.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind or pound them with two tablespoonfuls of the
+sugar.
+
+Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. Cook the rice in the milk
+until it is quite firm, put in all the ingredients except the eggs,
+which are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire mixture in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, harden in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into diamonds.
+When serving dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+200
+
+FARINA TART
+
+(Torta di semolino)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Farina finely ground, four and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with three bitter, three and a half ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds in warm water and ground or pound very fine with all
+the sugar, to be mixed one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and before removing from the fire add the
+butter and the almonds, which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the
+sugar. Then put the pinch of salt and wait until it becomes lukewarm to
+add the eggs that are to be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in
+a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprinkled with bread crumbs and
+of such a size that the tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put
+it in the oven, remove from the mold when cold and serve whole or cut
+into sections.
+
+
+201
+
+PUDDING OF RICE MEAL
+
+(Budino di farina di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice meal, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of vanilla.
+
+First dissolve the rice meal in half a pint of the milk when cold, and
+pour it in the rest of the milk when it is boiling. This is done to
+prevent the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked add the sugar,
+the butter and the salt. Remove from the fire and when it is lukewarm
+mix the eggs (beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake the pudding
+like all the others and serve warm.
+
+
+202
+
+BREAD PUDDING
+
+(Budino di pane)
+
+  Soft bread crumb, five ounces.
+  Butter, three and a half ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Cut the bread crumb into pieces and soak in cold milk. Then rub though a
+sieve. Melt the butter in a double boiler (in a vessel immersed in
+boiling water) and mix with the eggs until butter and eggs are
+incorporated to each other. Add the bread crumb and the sugar and mix
+well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with butter and sprinkled with
+bread crumb ground fine and bake like other puddings.
+
+
+203
+
+POTATO PUDDING
+
+(Budino di patate)
+
+  Potatoes, big and mealy, one and a half lb.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Butter, one and a half ounces.
+  Flour, a tablespoonful.
+  Milk, half a pint.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel.
+
+Boil or steam the potatoes, skin and rub through a sieve. Place them
+back again on the fire with the butter, the flour and the milk, all
+poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, then add the
+sugar, the salt and the cinnamon or lemon peel (just a taste) and mix
+everything together well. Remove from the fire and, when the mixture is
+lukewarm or cold add the eggs, first the yolks, then the whites beaten.
+
+Bake like all other puddings and serve hot.
+
+
+204
+
+LEMON PUDDING
+
+(Budino di limone)
+
+  One big lemon.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones, six ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+
+Cook the lemon in water, for which two hours will be enough. Remove dry
+and rub through a sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because if
+it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water until it has lost
+that unpleasant taste. Add the sugar, the almonds skinned and ground
+very fine and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and
+add them to the mixture that will then be put in a mold and baked like
+all other puddings.
+
+
+205
+
+PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS
+
+(Budino di mandorle tostate)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, two ounces.
+  Lady-finger biscuits, two ounces.
+  Three eggs.
+
+First prepare the almonds, that is to say skin them in warm water and
+toast them on the fire over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very
+fine. Boil the sugar and the lady-fingers, broken in little pieces in
+the milk, mixing well. After half an hour of boiling, keeping always
+stirred, rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the toasted and
+ground almonds. When it is cold add the beaten eggs, pour it in a smooth
+mold, whose bottom will be covered with a film of liquified sugar and
+cook in a double boiler, that is to say put the mold well closed in a
+kettle full of boiling water.
+
+When cooked let it cool and place in ice-box before serving.
+
+
+206
+
+CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER
+
+(Croccante a bagno maria)
+
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Egg-yolks, five.
+  Milk, one pint.
+
+Skin the almonds and chop them in little pieces about as big as a grain
+of wheat. Put on the fire two thirds of the sugar and when it is all
+melted pour the almonds and stir continually with the ladle until they
+have taken the color of cinnamon. Then put them in a tin greased with
+butter and when they are cold, pound them very fine with the remaining
+third of sugar.
+
+Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and pour the mixture in a mold
+with a hole in the middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the mold
+in a double boiler so that it will be cooked by steam.
+
+
+206
+
+STUFFED PEACHES
+
+(Pesche ripiene)
+
+  Six big peaches not very ripe.
+  Four or five lady-finger biscuits.
+  Granulated sugar, three ounces.
+  Two ounces sweet almonds with three peach kernels.
+  Candied fruit (angelica) half an ounce.
+
+Cut the peaches in two parts, remove the stones and enlarge somewhat the
+cavity where they were with the point of a knife. Mix the peach pulp
+that you extract with the almonds, already skinned, and grind the pulp
+and almonds very fine together with two ounces of the sugar. To this
+mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed and the candied fruits. Cut in very
+small cubes. This will be the stuffing with which you will fill the
+cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These you will place in a row in
+a baking tin, with the stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of sugar
+and bake in oven with a moderate fire.
+
+
+207
+
+MILK GNOCCHI
+
+(Gnocchi di latte)
+
+  One quart of milk.
+  Sugar, nine ounces.
+  Starch in powder, four ounces.
+  Eight yolks of eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Mix everything together as you would do for a cream and put on the fire
+in a saucepan, continually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture has
+become hard keep it a few moments more on the fire and then pour it in a
+plate to make it about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds when
+it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the other with symmetry in a
+baking tin or in a fireproof glass plate, with some little pieces of
+butter in between and brown them a little in the oven. Serve hot.
+
+
+208
+
+SABAYON
+
+(Zabaione)
+
+  Yolks of three eggs.
+  Granulated sugar, two ounces.
+  Marsala or sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls.
+  A dash of cinnamon.
+
+First stir with the ladle the yolks and the sugar until they become
+almost white, then add the wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan
+in another one containing hot water and beat until the sugar is melted
+and the egg begins to thicken.
+
+
+SYRUPS
+
+(Sciroppi)
+
+The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with ice water are refreshing
+and pleasant beverages, greatly appreciated during the summer months. It
+is well, however, not to drink them until the digestion is completed,
+because they may disturb it, on account of the sugar that they contain.
+
+
+209
+
+RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di ribes)
+
+Remove the stems from the bunches of gooseberry and place them in an
+earthen vase, to be kept in a cool place. When it has begun to ferment
+(which may happen after three or four days) sink the surface film and
+stir with a ladle twice a day, continuing this operation until it has
+stopped raising. Then put in a cheese cloth, letting the juice come out
+through pressing with the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through
+a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you obtain a limpid
+liquid. Then put it on the fire and when it begins to boil pour in it
+granulated sugar and citric acid in the following proportions:
+
+  Liquid, six pounds.
+  Sugar, eight pounds.
+  Citric acid, one ounce.
+
+That is to say for each =three= parts of the liquid, add =four= parts of
+sugar, and =one= ounce of citric acid for =eight= pounds of sugar mixed
+with =six= pounds of liquid.
+
+Stir continually with the ladle so that the sugar does not stick to the
+bottom, taste it to add some more citric acid if you judge it necessary,
+then let it cool and place in bottles to be sealed.
+
+When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a tumbler less than half an
+inch of syrup for a tumblerful of ice water.
+
+
+210
+
+RASPBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di lampone)
+
+This is prepared like the other explained above but, since this fruit
+contains less gluten than the gooseberry the period of fermentation will
+be briefer. The large quantity of sugar used in these syrups is
+necessary for their conservation and the citric acid is used to correct
+the excessive sweetness.
+
+
+211
+
+LEMON SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di limone)
+
+  Three big lemons.
+  One and a half pound of sugar.
+  A tumbler of water.
+
+Skin the lemons, removing the internal pulp without squeezing it and
+taking off all seeds.
+
+Put the water on the fire with the skin of one of the lemons cut in a
+thin ribbon like strip with a small knife. When the water is near
+boiling put in the sugar then remove the lemon skin and immerse the pulp
+of the three lemons. Boil until the syrup is condensed and cooked right,
+which is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and the color of
+white wine that it acquires. Preserve in a bottle, and when needed,
+dilute in a tumbler of ice water. A small quantity will make a
+delightful beverage.
+
+
+212
+
+HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di amarena)
+
+Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be of the sour kind but, as
+said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into
+a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon. The fermentation will happen
+after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from
+time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a pressing
+machine if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a
+time in cheese cloth.--When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it
+until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the
+fire in the following proportion and with the piece of cinnamon that was
+already immersed in the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen
+pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, or three parts of liquid
+to four of sugar and the citric acid as in the above proportion.
+
+Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid wait until the liquid is
+quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must
+be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the sugar
+in the liquid.
+
+When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and
+bottle when quite cold. Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.
+
+
+213
+
+ORGEAT
+
+(Orzata)
+
+  Sweet almonds with 10 or 12 bitter ones, seven ounces.
+  Water, one and half pounds.
+  Granulated sugar, two pounds.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind them very fine, or better pound them in a
+mortar, moistening from time to time with orange flower water, of which
+you will use about two tablespoonfuls.
+
+When the almonds have been reduced to a paste, dissolve the latter in
+one third of the water and filter the juice through a cheese cloth,
+squeezing hard. Put the paste, back in the grinder or in the mortar,
+grind or pound again, then filter again with another third of the water.
+Repeat the same operation for a third time, then put on the fire the
+liquid so obtained and just before boiling put the sugar, mix, stir and
+boil for about twenty minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a
+cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the thick liquid may be
+diluted in water, half an inch for a whole tumbler of iced water.
+
+
+
+
+PRESERVES
+
+214
+
+APRICOT MARMALADE
+
+(Conserva di albicocche)
+
+Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to believe that jam or
+marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones,
+put them on the fire without water and while they boil, stir with a
+ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an
+hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from
+the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire
+with granulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say
+eight pounds of sugar for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with
+the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which
+will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and
+seeing that it flows slowly.
+
+When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases
+well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in
+alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.
+
+
+215
+
+PRESERVE OF QUINCE
+
+(Conserva di cotogne soda)
+
+The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with the core removed, and
+granulated sugar, in the proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five
+tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a half quinces for one
+part of sugar.
+
+Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass of water, boil a
+little, then remove from the fire and put aside.
+
+Cut the quinces--peeled and coreless--in very thin slices and put them
+on the fire with a glass of water, supposing the quantity to be about
+two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle,
+trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the quinces
+are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of sugar
+already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover
+removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins
+to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.
+
+Let it cool and put in well covered jars.
+
+
+
+
+ICES
+
+(Gelati)
+
+Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice
+cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European
+capitals it is the Italian =gelatiere= who prepares the frozen delicacy.
+A few Italian recipes of =gelati= will then be acceptable, we believe,
+as a conclusion to this little work.
+
+
+216
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Pezzo in gelo)
+
+Make a cream with:
+
+  Water, five ounces.
+  Sugar, two ounces.
+  The yolks of four eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to
+the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about
+five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in a mold and pack in salt
+and ice.
+
+Keep in ice for about three hours.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.
+
+
+217
+
+LEMON ICE
+
+(Gelato di limone)
+
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, a pint.
+  Lemons, three (good sized).
+
+Boil the sugar in the water, with some little pieces of lemon peel, for
+about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold,
+squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the
+degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with salt
+and ice.
+
+
+218
+
+STRAWBERRY ICE
+
+(Gelato di fragola)
+
+  Ripe strawberries, 3/4 lb.
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, one pint.
+  A big lemon.
+  An orange.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub
+through a sieve the strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the
+orange: add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the
+mixture in the freezer.
+
+
+219
+
+ORANGE ICE
+
+(Gelato di aranci)
+
+  Four big oranges.
+  One lemon.
+  One pint of water.
+  Sugar, 3/4 lb.
+
+Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain the juice.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold,
+strain again and put in the freezer.
+
+
+220
+
+PISTACHE ICE CREAM
+
+(Gelato di pistacchi)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Pistaches, two ounces.
+
+Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind them very fine with a
+tablespoonful of the sugar, then put in a saucepan with the yolks and
+the sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk and put the mixture
+on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream,
+let it cool and put in the freezer.
+
+
+221
+
+TUTTI FRUTTI
+
+To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin
+receptacle that can be closed hermetically.
+
+Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good
+quality, that is to say, strawberries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big
+peach, a good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, skin and
+remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very
+thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.
+
+When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over
+one fifth of its weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one lemon.
+Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.
+
+Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with
+the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it
+for two hours or a little less.
+
+This is not the =tutti frutti= ice cream as is known in America, but a
+=macédoine= of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the
+summer months.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES
+
+                                            Page
+
+  African hen, 143                           103
+
+  Almond, cake, 189                          129
+    crisp cake, 193                          133
+    (roasted) pudding, 205                   143
+
+  Anchovy sauce, 14                           16
+
+  Apricot marmelade, 214                     151
+
+  Artichokes, with butter, 31                27
+    fried, 28                                 25
+    in mold, 96                               73
+    steamed, 29                               26
+    stewed, 30                                27
+    stuffed, 105                              78
+    stuffed with meat, 106                    79
+    with sauce, 104                           78
+
+  Asparagus, 114                              85
+
+
+  Balsamella, sauce, 59                       46
+
+  Bean soup, 7                                 9
+
+  Birds, 132                                  95
+
+  Biscuit, 191                               131
+
+  Biscuit (ice), 216                         153
+
+  Biscuit, crisp, 183                        124
+    soft, 184                                125
+    sultan, 185                              126
+    wafer, 194                               134
+
+  Blackberry syrup, 212                      149
+
+  Bread soup, 3                                7
+
+  Breast of Veal stuffed, 80                  62
+
+  Brittle (see crisp cake)
+
+  Broth, 1                                     5
+
+  Brown stock, 13                             15
+
+
+  Cabbage, stuffed, 112                       83
+
+  Cake, almond, 189                          129
+    corn meal, 190                           130
+    crisp, 206                               144
+    Madeleine, 192                           132
+    Margherita, 186                          127
+    portugaise, 196                          136
+    quince, 195                              135
+
+  Cakes, farina, 198                         138
+
+  Caper Sauce, 57                             45
+
+  Cappelletti, soup, 2                         6
+
+  Cauliflower, in mold, 95                    72
+    with balsamella, 111                      83
+
+  Celery, au jus, 166                        116
+    dressing 103                              77
+    fried, 168                               117
+    purée, 169                               117
+    sauce for, 167                           116
+    with butter, 165                         115
+
+  Chicken alla cacciatora, 35                 30
+    boned and stuffed, 40                     33
+    breasts sauté, 45                         37
+    fried, 34                                 29
+    sauté, 142                               102
+    stuffed, 139                             100
+    stuffing, 64                              51
+    with ham, 141                            102
+    with egg sauce, 44                        37
+    with sausages, 43                         36
+    with sherry, 42                           36
+    with tomatoes, 41                         35
+    with sauce piquante, 140                 101
+
+  Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123               90-91
+    croquettes, 125                           91
+    fried, 124                                91
+
+  Corn meal, cake, 190                       130
+    pie, 37                                   31
+    with sausages, 36                         30
+
+  Crisp cake in double boiler, 206           144
+
+  Croquettes, fried, 67                       53
+
+  Curly tart, 188                            129
+
+  Currant, syrup, 209                        146
+
+  Cutlets, chopped meat, 74                   58
+    veal, 75                                  58
+    stewed, 73                                57
+    stuffed, 76, 138                       59-99
+
+
+  Dog fish, fried, 126                        92
+    stewed, 127                               92
+
+  Duck, tame, 144                            104
+    wild, 46                                  38
+
+
+  Eels, stewed, 118                           88
+    with peas, 119                            88
+
+  Eggs, scrambled, 181                       123
+    with ham, 179                            122
+    with onion sauce, 178                    122
+    with tomato sauce, 180                   123
+
+  Egg-plants, fried, 100                      75
+    in the oven, 102                          76
+    stewed, 101                               76
+
+
+  Farina, cakes, 198                         138
+    tart, 200                                139
+
+  Fish, with bread crumbs, 115                86
+    cutlets, stewed, 116                      86
+
+  Fry, Roman, 68, 69                       54-55
+
+
+  Gnocchi, 4                                   7
+    milk, 207                                145
+
+
+  Hare, roast, 135                            97
+    stewed, 51                                42
+
+
+  Ices, biscuits, 216                        153
+    lemon, 217                               153
+    orange, 219                              154
+    pistache, 220                            155
+    strawberry, 218                          154
+    tutti frutti, 221                        155
+
+
+  Kidney, broiled, 152                       108
+    fried, 153                               108
+    sauté, 71                                 56
+    sliced 151                               107
+    with anchovy, 150                        107
+    omelet, 61                                48
+
+
+  Lamb, leg of, 147                          105
+    omelet, 33                                29
+    shoulder, 79                              61
+    roast, 133                                96
+    with peas, 78                             61
+
+  Lemon, ice, 217                            153
+    pudding, 204                             142
+    syrup, 211                               148
+
+  Lentils, soup, 9                            10
+
+  Liver, loaf, 89                             68
+
+
+  Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20                   20
+    fried with oil, 21                        21
+    au gratin, 19                             19
+    a la Corinna, 18                          18
+    with anchovy sauce, 17                    18
+    with butter and cheese, 15                17
+    with tomato sauce or brown stock, 16      18
+
+  Macaroons, 197                             136
+
+  Madeleine cake, 192                        132
+
+  Mantona tart, 187                           128
+
+  Margherita cake, 186                       127
+
+  Marmelade, apricot, 214                    151
+
+  Meat, Genovese, 86                          65
+    Omelet, 77                                60
+    stuffing, 65                              52
+
+  Milk gnocchi, 207                          145
+
+  Minestrone, 9                               11
+
+  Mushrooms, dried, 99                        74
+    fried, 97                                 73
+    stewed, 98                                74
+
+  Mussels, with egg sauce, 120                89
+    with tomato sauce, 121                    89
+
+  Mutton, cutlets, 84                         54
+    leg of, 72, 134                        57-96
+
+
+  Omelet, curled, 60                          47
+    lamb, 33                                  29
+    veal kidney, 61                           48
+
+  Onions, stewed, 160                        112
+    stuffed, 159                             112
+
+  Orange, ice, 219                           154
+
+  Orgeat, syrup, 213                         150
+
+
+  Panata, 3                                    7
+
+  Paste for frying, 63                        50
+
+  Pavese soup, 10                             11
+
+  Peaches, stuffed, 206                      144
+
+  Peas, with corned beef, 109                 82
+    with ham, 108                             81
+    with onion sauce, 117                     80
+
+  Pigeon, surprise, 137                       98
+    broiled, 148                             106
+    (See Squabs)
+
+  Pistache, ice, 220                         155
+
+  Polenta pie, 37                             31
+    with sausages, 36, 163                30-113
+
+  Polpettone, 77                              60
+
+  Pork liver fried, 66                        53
+    roast, 146                               105
+
+  Portuguese cake, 196                       136
+
+  Pot-roast, 130                              94
+    with garlic, 131                          95
+    larded, 136                               98
+
+  Potato pudding, 203                        141
+
+  Preserve, quince, 215                      151
+
+  Pudding, bread, 202                        141
+    Genovese, 88                              67
+    hazelnuts, 182                           124
+    lemon, 204                               142
+    potato, 203                              141
+    rice meal, 201                           140
+    roasted almonds, 205                     143
+
+  Puff Paste, 62                              48
+
+
+  Quince, cake, 195                          135
+    preserve, 215                            151
+
+
+  Rabbit, stewed, 52                          42
+
+  Raspberry syrup, 210                       148
+
+  Ravioli, 10                                 11
+
+  Rice, cakes, 27                             25
+    meal pudding, 201                        140
+    pancakes, 70                              55
+    pudding with giblets, 87                  66
+    tart, 199                                139
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Risotto Milanaise, 22                       22
+    with chicken giblets, 23                  22
+    with lobster, 25                          23
+    with peas, 24                             23
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Roast-beef, 128                             93
+
+  Rolls, stuffed, 38                          32
+
+  Roman fry, 68, 69                        54-55
+
+
+  Sabayon, 208                               146
+
+  Salmi of game, 50                           41
+
+  Sauce, anchovy, 13                          15
+    balsamella, 59                            46
+    brown stock, 12                           14
+    caper, 57                                 45
+    for broiled fish, 56                      45
+    green, 53                                 43
+    Genovese, 58                              46
+    tomato, 12                                14
+    white, 54                                 43
+    yellow, 55                                44
+
+  Sausages with corn meal, 163               113
+    with onions, 164                         114
+
+  Soup, bean, 7                                9
+    bread, 7                                   9
+    cappelletti, 2                             6
+    lentils, 8                                10
+    Pavese, 11                                12
+    Queen, 6                                   9
+    stock, 1                                   5
+    vegetables, 5                              8
+
+  Spaghetti, 11-15                         13-17
+    (see _Macaroni_)
+
+  Spinach, side-dish, 113                     84
+
+  Squabs, ragout, 48                          39
+    stewed, 47                                39
+    timbale, 49                               40
+    (See =Pigeons=)
+
+  Squash, fried, 32                           28
+    stuffed, 91                               69
+
+  Steak in the saucepan, 149                 106
+
+  Stewed cutlets, 73                          57
+
+  Strawberry, ice, 218                       154
+
+  String beans in mold, 94                    71
+    sauté, 92                                 70
+    with egg sauce, 93                        71
+
+  Stufato, 170                               117
+    French, 173                              119
+    Milanaise, 172                           118
+    Southern, 171                            118
+
+  Stuffing, chicken, 64                       51
+    meat, 65                                  52
+
+  Sugo di carne, 13                           15
+
+  Sweet-breads, 157                           110
+
+  Syrup, hard blackberry, 212                149
+    lemon, 211                               148
+    orgeat, 213                              150
+    raspberry, 210                           148
+    red currant, 209                         146
+
+
+  Tart, curly, 188                           129
+    farina, 200                              139
+    Mantona, 187                             128
+    rice, 199                                139
+
+  Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85                65
+    with spices, 158                         111
+
+  Tomato sauce, 12                            14
+    stuffed, 110                              82
+
+  Tongue, boiled, 154                        108
+    stewed, 156                              109
+    with olives, 155                         109
+
+  Tripe with gravy, 82                        63
+
+  Trout, Alpine, 174                         120
+    fried, 176                               121
+    Lombard, 175                             121
+    with anchovies, 177                      121
+
+  Turkey, 145                                104
+
+  Tutti frutti, ice, 221                     155
+
+
+  Veal, breast, 80                            62
+    cutlets, 75                               58
+    kidney with anchovy, 150                 107
+    liver, 161                               113
+    fried, 162                               113
+    in gravy, 83                              63
+    kidney sliced, 151                       107
+
+  Veal, roast, 129                            94
+    stewed, 39                                32
+    with gravy, 81                            62
+    with tunny, 90                            68
+
+  Vegetable chowder, 10                       11
+    soup, 7                                    8
+
+
+  Wafer biscuits, 194                        134
+
+  Whiting with anchovy sauce, 117             87
+
+
+  Zabaione, 208                              146
+
+  Zucchine, 32                                28
+
+
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+  |Transcriber's Note:                                |
+  |                                                   |
+  |All grave accents in the original have been        |
+  |changed to acute and an acute accent has been      |
+  |added to Recipe No. 169 PUREE OF CELERY.           |
+  |                                                   |
+  |Inconsistencies in spelling between the main body  |
+  |and index have been retained, however typographical|
+  |typographical errors have been corrected in both.  |
+  |in both.                                           |
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Mrs. Maria Gentile
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Italian Cook Book
+       The Art of Eating Well
+
+Author: Maria Gentile
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2008 [EBook #24407]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Annie McGuire and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<h2>THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK</h2>
+
+<h3>The Art of Eating Well</h3>
+
+<h4>PRACTICAL RECIPES</h4>
+<h4>OF THE</h4>
+<h4>ITALIAN CUISINE</h4>
+
+<h4>PASTRIES</h4>
+<h4>SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES</h4>
+<h4>AND SYRUPS</h4>
+
+<h3>COMPILED BY</h3>
+<h3>MRS. MARIA GENTILE</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 35%;" />
+<h4>ITALIAN BOOK CO.</h4>
+<h4>NEW YORK</h4>
+
+<h5>COPYRIGHT 1919</h5>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+<p>One of the beneficial results of the Great War has been the teaching of
+thrift to the American housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons
+of economy, more attention has been bestowed upon the preparing and
+cooking of food that is to be at once palatable, nourishing and
+economical.</p>
+
+<p>In the Italian <b>cuisine</b> we find in the highest degree these three
+qualities. That it is palatable, all those who have partaken of food in
+an Italian <b>trattoria</b> or at the home of an Italian family can testify,
+that it is healthy the splendid manhood and womanhood of Italy is a
+proof more than sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the thriftiness
+of the Italian race, that it is economical?</p>
+
+<p>It has therefore been thought that a book of PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE
+ITALIAN CUISINE could be offered to the American public with hope of
+success. It is not a pretentious book, and the recipes have been made as
+clear and simple as possible. Some of the dishes described are not
+peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representative of the <b>Cucina
+Casalinga</b> of the peninsular Kingdom, which is not the least product of a
+lovable and simple people, among whom the art of living well and getting
+the most out of life at a moderate expense has been attained to a very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>high degree.</p>
+
+<h4><br /><br />1</h4>
+
+<h4>BROTH OR SOUP STOCK</h4>
+
+<h4>(Brodo)</h4>
+
+<p>To obtain good broth the meat must be put in cold water, and then
+allowed to boil slowly. Add to the meat some pieces of bones and "soup
+greens" as, for instance, celery, carrots and parsley. To give a brown
+color to the broth, some sugar, first browned at the fire, then diluted
+in cold water, may be added.</p>
+
+<p>While it is not considered that the broth has much nutritive power, it
+is excellent to promote the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are
+made on a basis of broth.</p>
+
+<p>A good recipe for substantial broth to be used for invalids is the
+following: Cut some beef in thin slices and place them in a large
+saucepan; add some salt. Pour cold water upon them, so that they are
+entirely covered. Cover the saucepan so that it is hermetically closed
+and place on the cover a receptacle containing water, which must be
+constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire for six hours, then on a strong
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>fire for ten minutes. Strain the liquid in cheese cloth.</p>
+
+<p>The soup stock, besides being used for soups, is a necessary ingredient
+in hundreds of Italian dishes.</p>
+
+<h4>2</h4>
+
+<h4>SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI"</h4>
+
+<p>This Soup is called of "<b>Cappelletti</b>" or "little hats" on account of the
+shape of the "<b>Cappelletti</b>".</p>
+
+<p>First a thin sheet of paste is made according to the following
+directions:</p>
+
+<p>The best and most tender paste is made simply of eggs, flour and salt,
+water may be substituted for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a
+less rich paste is needed. Allow about a cup of flour to an egg. Put the
+flour on a bread board, make a hollow in the middle and break in the
+egg. Use any extra whites that are on hand. Knead it thoroughly, adding
+more flour if necessary, until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll
+it as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling pin is necessary, but
+any stick, well scrubbed and sand papered, will serve in lieu of the
+long Italian rolling pin.</p>
+
+<p>Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring about three inches in
+diameter. In the middle of each circle place a spoonful of filling that
+must be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat (chicken, pork or veal)
+ground very fine and seasoned with grated cheese, grated lemon peel,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>
+nutmeg, allspice, salt. The ground meat is to be mixed with an equal
+amount of curds or cottage cheese.</p>
+
+<p>When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, fold the latter over
+and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to
+make it stay securely closed.</p>
+
+<p>These <b>cappelletti</b> should be cooked in chicken or beef broth until the
+paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.</p>
+
+<h4>3</h4>
+
+<h4>BREAD SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Panata)</h4>
+
+<p>This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend for using the stale
+bread that must never again be thrown away. It is composed of bread
+crumbs and grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg (in very small
+quantity) and salt, all mixed together and put in broth previously
+prepared, which must be warm at the moment of the immersion, but not at
+the boiling point. Then place it on a low fire and stir gently. Any
+vegetable left over may be added.</p>
+
+<h4>4</h4>
+
+<p>GNOCCHI</p>
+
+<p>This is an excellent soup, but as it requires boiled or roast breast of
+chicken or turkey it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> well to make it only when these ingredients are
+handy.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes, the mealy kind being
+preferred. Mash the potatoes and mix them with chicken or turkey breast
+well ground, grated cheese (Parmesan or Swiss), two or more yolks of
+eggs, salt and a small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the compound on the
+bread board with a quantity of flour sufficient to make a paste and roll
+it in little sticks as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in
+little pieces about half an inch long and put them in boiling water.
+Five or six minutes' cooking will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<h4>5</h4>
+
+<h4>VEGETABLE SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zuppa Sant&eacute;)</h4>
+
+<p>Any kind of vegetables may be used for this soup: carrots, celery,
+cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of
+lettuce or greens of any variety.</p>
+
+<p>Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or chop coarsely cabbage
+or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over
+the fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter substitute, and
+let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook
+until the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in oil
+and serve them in the soup.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>6</h4>
+
+<h4>QUEEN'S SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zuppa Regina)</h4>
+
+<p>This is made with the white meat of chicken, which is to be ground in a
+meat grinder together with blanched almonds (5 or 6) for one quart of
+chicken stock. To the meat and almond add some bread crumbs, first
+soaked in milk or broth, in the proportion of about one fifth of the
+quantity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be rubbed to a very
+smooth paste and hot broth is to be added to them. If you wish the soup
+to be richer and have a more milky consistency, use the yolk of an egg,
+which should be beaten, and have a few tablespoonfuls of hot broth
+stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil
+after the egg is added or it will curdle.</p>
+
+<p>One slice of stale bread may be cut into cubes, fried in deep fat, and
+the croutons put in the soup. Send it to the table with a dish of grated
+cheese.</p>
+
+<h4>7</h4>
+
+<h4>BEAN SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zuppa di fagiuoli)</h4>
+
+<p>One cup of dried beans, kidney, navy or lima is to be soaked over night.
+Then boil until tender. It is preferable to put the beans to cook in
+cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come to boil, pour off this
+water and add fresh.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Chop fine &frac14; onion, one clove of garlic, one sprig of parsley and one
+piece of celery and put them to fry in &frac14; cup of oil with salt and a
+generous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add
+to them two cups of the broth from the beans and 1 cup of tomatoes
+(canned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the
+kettle of beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they
+are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a
+sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry toast make an
+excellent addition.</p>
+
+<p>The bean soup is made without meat or chicken broth, and it belongs
+consequently to that class of soup called by the Italians "<b>Minestra di
+Magro</b>" or "lean soup," to be served preferably on Friday and other days
+in which the Roman Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats.</p>
+
+<h4>8</h4>
+
+<h4>LENTIL SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zuppa di lenticchie)</h4>
+
+<p>The lentil soup is prepared in the same way as the bean soup, only
+substituting lentils for beans. A good combination is that of lentils
+and rice. The nutritive qualities of the lentils are not sufficiently
+known in this country, but all books on dietetics speak very highly of
+them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>9</h4>
+
+<h4>VEGETABLE CHOWDER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Minestrone alla Milanese)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut off the rind of &frac12; lb. salt pork and put it into two quarts of
+water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste
+with two or three sprigs of parsley, a little celery and one kernel of
+garlic. Add this paste to the pork and water. Slice two carrots, cut the
+rib out of the leaves of &frac14; medium sized cabbage. Add the carrots,
+cabbage leaves, other vegetables, seasoning and butter to the soup, and
+let it boil slowly for 2&frac12; hours. The last &frac12; hour add one small
+handful of rice for each person.</p>
+
+<p>When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put
+it back.</p>
+
+<p>The minestrone is equally good eaten cold.</p>
+
+<h4>10</h4>
+
+<h4>RAVIOLI</h4>
+
+<p>Put on the bread board about two pounds of flour in a heap; make a
+hollow in the middle and put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks,
+salt and three or four tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. Make a paste
+and knead it well, then let it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered
+with a linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, as thin as a
+ten-cent piece.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled chicken meat: add to it an
+equal part of marrow from the bones of beef and pieces of brains, three
+yolks, some crumbs of bread soaked in milk or broth and some grated
+cheese (Parmesan or Swiss). Rub through a sieve and make little balls as
+big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at equal distances (a little
+more than an inch) in a line over the sheet of paste.</p>
+
+<p>Beat a whole egg and pass it over the paste with a brush all around the
+little balls. Cover these with another sheet of paste, press down the
+intervals between each ball, and then separate each section from the
+other with a knife. Moisten the edges of each section with the finger
+dipped in cold water, to make them stick together, and press them down
+with the fingers or the prongs of a fork. Then put to boil in water
+seasoned with salt or, better still, in broth. The ravioli are then to
+be served hot seasoned with cheese and butter or with brown stock or
+tomato sauce.</p>
+
+<h4>11</h4>
+
+<h4>PAVESE SOUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zuppa alla Pavese)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut as many thin slices of bread as are needed in order that each person
+may have at least two of them. These slices are then to be toasted and
+browned with butter. Poach two eggs for each<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> person, one on each slice
+of bread and place the slices on a large and deep dish (not in a soup
+tureen). Pour hot broth in the plate, taking care not to break the eggs,
+season with Parmesan or Swiss cheese, and serve.</p>
+
+<h2>PASTE</h2>
+
+<h4>SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC.</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta Asciutta)</h4>
+
+<p>The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni at the beginning of the
+meal, in place of soup, and they give it the name of <b>Minestra Asciutta</b>
+or "dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the paste is served in
+many other forms and with different seasoning. This is by far the most
+popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleased the taste of all the
+peoples of the earth. The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of
+cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been recognized by all diet
+authorities and, as for its palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are
+just as enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as within the
+boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for
+spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The
+description of these three condiments follows:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>12</h4>
+
+<h4>TOMATO SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa di Pomidoro)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, a piece
+of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and just enough
+parsley. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up seven or
+eight tomatoes and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from
+time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard
+strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>When fresh tomatoes are not available the tomato paste may be used. This
+is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be
+had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities.
+Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes.
+Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes
+as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes seasoned with
+salt and a bit of bay leaf, can always be used instead of fresh
+tomatoes.</p>
+
+<p>This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to
+dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with
+butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see
+Risotto). Mushrooms are a fine addition to it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to
+give good results:</p>
+
+<p>Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: form a little bunch of
+parsley and other aromatic greens and put everything to brown in a
+saucepan together with a piece of butter. Add a reasonable portion of
+tomato paste while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce
+assumes the necessary consistency.</p>
+
+<h4>13</h4>
+
+<h4>BROWN STOCK</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sugo di Carne)</h4>
+
+<p>Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of beef taken from a
+juicy cut and small pieces of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one
+carrot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small pieces. Add some
+butter and cover the whole with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and
+any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and cloves. Put over
+the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown,
+turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of water,
+renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of
+boiling water or, better still, of broth, and let it boil gently five or
+six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on
+top of the liquid.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or <b>Croquettes</b>. The stock
+may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.</p>
+
+<h4>14</h4>
+
+<h4>ANCHOVY SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa d'Acciughe)</h4>
+
+<p>This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for <b>hors
+d'&oelig;uvre</b>, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to
+be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty
+of water. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for
+use.</p>
+
+<p>Put five or six anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into boiling
+water to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop
+them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of oil
+and some pepper. Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two
+tablespoons of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated
+tomato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing through a
+sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled
+in water that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let
+them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be
+sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>15</h4>
+
+<h4>SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta al burro e formaggio)</h4>
+
+<p>This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti may be served, and it
+is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be
+boiled until tender in salted water, taking care to remove them when
+tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into
+the water until this is at a boiling point.</p>
+
+<p>Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
+served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so
+desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning
+them around the fork and eating them <b>is not the privilege of everybody</b>.
+Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil twelve to fifteen
+minutes, or until the macaroni is perfectly soft. Stir frequently to
+prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it into a
+colander to drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with a generous
+quantity of butter and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked, it can be
+brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to it.</p>
+
+<p>The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a name designating size, not
+quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with butter and
+cheese.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>16</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI WITH SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni al sugo)</h4>
+
+<p>The most appreciated kind of macaroni are those seasoned with tomato
+sauce or with brown stock (see nos. 12 and 13). The macaroni are boiled
+as above, then drained in a colander, returned to the saucepan and mixed
+with the sauce and grated cheese. For those who like it some butter may
+be added in the mixing.</p>
+
+<h4>17</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe)</h4>
+
+<p>After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to be put into the hot dish
+in which it is to be served and the anchovy sauce poured over it and
+well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce has gone all through
+it. Some olive oil may be added, but grated cheese is not generally used
+with the anchovy sauce.</p>
+
+<h4>18</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI A LA CORINNA</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni alla Corinna)</h4>
+
+<p>Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of salted water to which add a
+small piece of butter. When it begins to boil put in it &frac34; lb.
+macaroni. Let<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a colander.
+Put them again in new boiling water, prepared as above and let them cook
+on a slow fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of a plate with
+macaroni and cover this first layer with grated cheese and with some
+vegetables in mac&eacute;doine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown with
+butter. Repeat the draining, moisten the macaroni with the water in
+which they have previously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten minutes
+more.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>Mac&eacute;doine</b> of vegetables can be made with a dozen Bruxelles sprouts
+or one cabbage, half a dozen big asparagus cut in little pieces, a
+carrot cut in thin slices, a dozen small onions, some turnips and half a
+dozen mushrooms. The mushrooms and the asparagus can be omitted. Melt
+some butter in a saucepan and when the turnips, the carrots and the
+onions are half cooked, add the cabbage or sprouts. Put in some water
+and some more butter, boil for ten minutes and then add the mushrooms
+and the asparagus, adding salt and pepper, and a little sugar if this is
+desired.</p>
+
+<h4>19</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI "AU GRATIN"</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni al gratin)</h4>
+
+<p>Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender and drain them. Butter
+slightly a fireproof casse<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>role and lay on the bottom some grated cheese
+and grated bread. Alternate the layers of cheese with macaroni and on
+the top layer of macaroni put more cheese and bread grated. Over the
+whole pour some melted butter, cover the casserole, (or <b>pyrex</b> plate) and
+put it in the oven with a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more, until
+the top appears browned.</p>
+
+<h4>20</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI NAPOLITAINE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni alla Napoletana)</h4>
+
+<p>Grind &frac14; lb. salt pork or bacon and fry it out in a saucepan. While it
+is frying put one small onion through the grinder. As soon as the pork
+begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chopped, a clove (or small
+section) of garlic shredded fine, and a few dried mushrooms which have
+been softened by soaking in warm water. When the vegetables are very
+brown (great care must be taken not to burn the onion, which scorches
+very easily) add &frac12; lb. round steak ground coarsely or cut up in little
+cubes. When the meat is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned
+tomatoes or half a tablespoonful of tomato paste and simmer slowly until
+all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take &frac34;
+hour. The sauce may be bound together with a little flour if it shows a
+tendency to separate.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and spaghetti, also
+for boiled rice (see Risotto). The macaroni or spaghetti should be left
+unbroken when cooked. If they are too long to fit in the kettle immerse
+one end in the boiling salted water and in a very few minutes the ends
+of the spaghetti under the water will become softened so that the rest
+can be pushed down into the kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and
+it will not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in
+a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it and pour
+on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed.</p>
+
+<h4>21</h4>
+
+<h4>MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Maccheroni all'olio)</h4>
+
+<p>After the macaroni have boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan in
+which some good olive oil has already boiled, with a clove of garlic
+chopped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it doesn't stick to
+the bottom of the saucepan, and when it is well browned on one side,
+turn it to have the other side browned. Serve the macaroni very hot. Add
+no cheese.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>22</h4>
+
+<h4>RISOTTO MILANAISE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Risotto alla Milanese)</h4>
+
+<p>Melt a small piece of butter in a saucepan. Brown in the butter a medium
+sized onion, cut in thin slices. When the onion is browned, take it away
+from the saucepan and add little by little the rice, stirring it with a
+wooden spoon. Every time that the rice becomes dry, add some hot broth
+(or hot water) until the rice is completely cooked. Add salt and pepper
+and a little saffron, if you like it.</p>
+
+<p>When the rice is almost cooked, add to it some brown stock. Dress with
+parmesan cheese and some butter. Mix well and serve hot. This dish must
+not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled before eating.</p>
+
+<h4>23</h4>
+
+<h4>RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Risotto alla Milanese II)</h4>
+
+<p>The broth for this risotto may be made by cooking together the giblets,
+neck and tips of wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it may be
+made from the left-overs of roast fowl.</p>
+
+<p>Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. Then let the
+water cook away and begin adding the broth, in such quantity that the
+rice will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chop<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>ped onion in the
+oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut up small are a very good addition to this
+"<b>Soffritto</b>". Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir the
+mixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten egg just as the
+rice is taken from the fire.</p>
+
+<h4>24</h4>
+
+<h4>(Risotto con piselli)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash and dry 1&frac12; lb. rice; chop fine one medium sized onion and put it
+on the fire with a small quantity of butter.</p>
+
+<p>When the onion is well browned, add the rice little by little, stirring
+with a wooden spoon. Add some boiling water one cup at a time. Drain the
+peas previously prepared (fresh or canned peas may be used) and add them
+toward the end of the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, add some
+salt and take it away from the water almost dry. Add some butter, stir
+and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>25</h4>
+
+<h4>RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Risotto coi gamberi)</h4>
+
+<p>For this risotto either lobster or crab meat can be used: the former is,
+however, considered more tasty. The lobster or crab meat ought to be
+about half the weight of the rice employed. A little more than a pound
+of rice and half this weight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> of crab meat ought to be enough for six
+persons.</p>
+
+<p>Chop fine a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, one carrot, half an
+onion a clove of garlic and brown the whole in good olive oil. When
+browned, add the crab meat and season with salt and pepper. During the
+cooking process stir and turn over the crabs, and when they have become
+red, pour over as much hot water as is necessary to cook the rice.</p>
+
+<p>After the water boils for a while, remove the lobster (or crab, or
+craw-fish) leaving the saucepan on the fire. Put half of the crabs
+aside, and grind the rest. Rub the ground meat through the sieve and put
+it back on the fire. In another saucepan melt some butter and put into
+it little by little the rice that has been washed and dried. Stir and
+add the broth from the first saucepan. When the rice is almost cooked
+add the craw-fish that you have put aside, or rather its meat extracted
+from the shells, take from the fire and pour over it the fish mixture,
+adding some grated cheese.</p>
+
+<h4>26</h4>
+
+<h4>RICE WITH SAFFRON</h4>
+
+<h4>(Riso alla Milanese con Zafferano)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash and dry the rice and put it in boiling broth (beef or chicken
+broth). When the rice is half cooked add half its weight of marrow of
+beef bone, cut into small pieces. A few minutes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> are sufficient for the
+cooking of the marrow. Add grated cheese and remove the kettle from the
+fire.</p>
+
+<p>Dissolve some saffron in one or two tablespoonfuls of broth; sift it
+through a sieve and mix with rice, which is to be served very hot, and
+makes an excellent soup.</p>
+
+<h4>27</h4>
+
+<h4>RICE CAKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Frittelle di riso)</h4>
+
+<p>Cook the rice in milk, adding a small quantity of butter, some salt,
+half a teaspoon of sugar and just a taste of lemon peel. Let the rice
+cool down after being thoroughly cooked, then add three yolks of eggs
+(for &frac14; lb. of rice) and some flour. Mix well and let the whole rest
+for several hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the eggs to a
+froth, add to the rice mixing slowly, and put into the saucepan with a
+ladle.</p>
+
+<h4>28</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED ARTICHOKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi fritti)</h4>
+
+<p>Take two artichokes, cut out the hard part of the leaves and of the
+stalk, cut them in two. Then cut these halves into section or slices so
+as to have eight or ten for each artichoke, according to size. As you
+cut them, throw them into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> cold water and when they are well washed, dry
+them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once into the flour so that
+the latter remains attached to it. Beat the white of an egg, but not to
+a froth, then mix the yolk with the white and salt the whole. Shake out
+the artichokes to take away the superfluous flour and then put them in
+the egg, leaving them for a while so that the egg may be attached to
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Throw the pieces one by one into the pan where there is boiling fat,
+butter or olive oil, and when they are well browned, take them away and
+serve with lemon. If it is desired that the artichokes remain white, it
+is better to fry them in oil and to squeeze half lemon into the water
+where the artichokes are put to soften.</p>
+
+<h4>29</h4>
+
+<h4>STEAMED ARTICHOKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi a vapore)</h4>
+
+<p>Artichokes have been only recently imported to the United States,
+principally by Italian farmers, and they are just beginning to find
+their way into the American kitchen. The artichokes may be eaten raw or
+cooked. It is a healthy and palatable vegetable, easily digested when
+cooked. It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It may be
+prepared in a thousand ways, and here follow some of the simplest and
+most tasteful.</p>
+
+<p>To prepare the steamed artichokes they must<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> first be cleaned and the
+stalk cut to less than half an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on
+their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch or more of water. In
+an opening made in the middle put salt and pepper, and pour inside as
+much good olive oil as they may contain. Cover well the saucepan and put
+it on the fire. The artichokes, that are already seasoned, will be
+cooked by the steam.</p>
+
+<h4>30</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED ARTICHOKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi in stufato)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash the artichokes and cut the hard part of the leaves (the top). Widen
+the leaves and insert a hash composed of bread crumbs, parsley, salt,
+pepper and oil. Place the artichokes in the saucepan standing on their
+stalk, one touching the other. Cover them with water and let them cook
+for two hours or more. When the leaves are easily detached they are
+cooked.</p>
+
+<h4>31</h4>
+
+<h4>ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi al burro)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of as many artichokes as are
+needed. Cut them in two or four and boil them in salt water. When<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+tender, drain them, have them slightly browned in melted butter and
+season with salt and pepper.</p>
+
+<p>When served in a vegetable dish or placed in a pyramid on a round plate,
+sprinkle with grated cheese.</p>
+
+<h4>32</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED SQUASH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zucchine fritte)</h4>
+
+<p>The squashes used by Italians for frying and other purposes are very
+small, and for this reason they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes.
+They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian vegetable dealers that
+are now to be found in large number in most American cities and,
+invariably, in Italian neighborhoods during the summer season. The
+"Zucchine" are an extremely tasty vegetable and they are especially good
+when fried.</p>
+
+<p>Select the squashes that are long and thin: wash them cut them in little
+strips less than half an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the
+interior and salt moderately. Leave them aside for an hour or two, then
+drain them but don't dry them. Put them in flour and rub gently in a
+sieve to take away the superfluous flour: immediately after put them in
+a saucepan where there is already oil, fat or butter boiling. At the
+beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> and only when they have
+become a little hardened stir them and remove when they begin to be
+browned.</p>
+
+<h4>33</h4>
+
+<h4>LAMB OMELET</h4>
+
+<h4>(Agnello in frittata)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut in little pieces a loin of lamb, which is the part that lends itself
+best for this dish, and fry in lard: a little quantity of lard is
+sufficient, because the meat of the loins is rather fat. When half
+cooked season with salt and pepper and when fully cooked pour over four
+or five whole eggs slightly beaten also seasoned moderately with salt
+and pepper. Mix, taking care that the eggs do not harden.</p>
+
+<h4>34</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED CHICKEN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo fritto)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash a spring chicken and keep in boiling water for one minute. Cut into
+pieces at the joints, roll them in flour, season with salt and pepper
+and dip in two whole beaten eggs. After leaving the pieces of chicken
+for half an hour, roll them in bread crumbs, repeating the operation
+twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with boiling oil or fat, seeing
+that the pieces of chicken are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire
+low. Serve hot with lemon.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>35</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo alla cacciatora)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop one large onion and keep it for more than half an hour in cold
+water, then dry it and brown it aside. Cut up a chicken, sprinkle the
+pieces with flour, salt and pepper and saut&eacute;, in the fat which remains
+in the frying pan. When the chicken is brown add one pint fresh or
+canned tomatoes and half a dozen sweet green peppers and put back the
+onion. When the gravy is thick enough add hot water to prevent the
+burning of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the
+chicken is very tender. This is an excellent way to cook tough chickens.
+Fowls which have been boiled may be cooked in this way, but of course
+young and tender chickens will have the finer flavor.</p>
+
+<h4>36</h4>
+
+<h4>CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Polenta con salsicce)</h4>
+
+<p>Cook in water one cup of yellow cornmeal making a stiff mush. Salt it
+well and when it is cooked spread out to cool on a bread board about
+half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small squares.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Put in a saucepan several whole sausages with a little water, and when
+they are cooked skin and crush them and add some brown stock or tomato
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fireproof receptacle, season
+with grated cheese, the crushed sausages and a piece of butter. Put it
+in the oven and serve when hot.</p>
+
+<h4>37</h4>
+
+<h4>POLENTA PIE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Polenta Pasticciata)</h4>
+
+<p>Make a very stiff mush of cornmeal cooked in milk. Salt it well and
+spread out on the bread board in a sheet about one inch thick. When
+cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place these in a buttered
+baking dish. Prepare the <b>Bolognese sauce</b> according to the following
+recipe: Chop &frac14; lb. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon, one small
+carrot &frac14; onion, one large piece celery. Put the meat and vegetables
+over the fire with a piece of butter. When the meat has browned add half
+a tablespoon of flour and wet the mixture with hot water or broth,
+allowing it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when it
+is the consistency of a thick gravy.</p>
+
+<p>Make a smooth white sauce with milk cornstarch and butter. Over a layer
+of the polenta, cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>kle
+some grated cheese and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce and the
+meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is nicely
+browned. This dish seems very elaborate, but it is very delicious and a
+meal in itself.</p>
+
+<p>The Bolognese sauce is also used to season macaroni or spaghetti in lieu
+of the tomato sauce or the brown stock.</p>
+
+<h4>38</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED ROLLS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pagnottelle ripiene)</h4>
+
+<p>Take some rolls, and by means of a round opening on the top, as large as
+a half dollar piece or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the
+crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and outside with hot milk,
+and when they are fairly soaked, dip in beaten eggs and fry them in lard
+or oil. When beginning to brown, fill them with meat that has been
+previously chopped and cooked. This chopped meat ought to be made with
+breast of chicken, chicken giblets, liver etc., brown stock and some
+flour to hold it together.</p>
+
+<h4>39</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED VEAL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stracotto di vitella)</h4>
+
+<p>The stock from this dish may very well be used to season macaroni or
+boiled rice. Care<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> must be taken, however, not to draw away all the
+juice of the meat in order to have a sauce too rich at the expense of
+the principal dish.</p>
+
+<p>Place in a saucepan one pound of veal or more, bone included, a piece of
+butter or some olive oil (or the two together) half a medium sized
+onion, one small carrot, two celery stalks cut in small pieces. Season
+with salt and pepper. Put it on a low fire, turn the meat over often and
+when browned add a pinch of flour and some tomato paste, bringing it to
+full cooking with water poured little by little. The flour is used to
+keep the sauce together and give it color, but care must be taken not to
+burn it, because in that case the sauce would have an unpleasant taste
+and a black, instead of a reddish color. The addition of dried
+mushrooms, previously softened in the water and slightly boiled in the
+sauce will add greatly to its taste.</p>
+
+<p>As has been said the sauce can well be used to season spaghetti or
+risotto. The stewed veal can be served with some vegetable.</p>
+
+<h4>40</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN BONED AND STUFFED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo dissossato ripieno)</h4>
+
+<p>To remove the bones from a chicken the following instructions will be
+found useful.</p>
+
+<p>Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> and legs, and remove the
+tendons. When a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning
+is not difficult, but it requires practice. The skin must not be broken.
+Use a small pointed knife cut the skin down the full length of the back;
+then, beginning at the neck, carefully scrape the meat away from the
+bone, keeping the knife close to the bone. When the joints of the wings
+and legs are met, break them back and proceed to free the meat from the
+carcass. When one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the
+other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care
+must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the meat is
+free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs and wings, turning
+the meat down or inside out, as the bones are exposed, and using care
+not to break the skin at the joints. The end bones of the wing cannot be
+removed, and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.</p>
+
+<p>Now that the fowl is boned make the following stuffing, regulating the
+quantity on the size of the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean
+veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may make a paste. Add a large
+piece of bread crumb soaked in broth, a tablespoon of grated cheese,
+three yolks of egg, salt, pepper and, if desired, just a taste of
+nutmeg. Finally mix also one or two slices of ham and tongue, cut in
+small pieces. Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> the
+opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to cook in water on a low
+fire. When taken from the water, remove the wrapping and brown it, first
+with butter, then in a sauce made in the following way: Break all the
+bones that have been extracted from the chicken, the head and neck
+included, and put them on the fire with dried meat cut in little pieces,
+butter, onion, celery and carrot, seasoned with salt and pepper. Make
+the sauce with the water in which the chicken has been boiled, which has
+naturally become a good chicken broth.</p>
+
+<p>Before sending to the table, remove the thread with which the chicken
+has been sewed.</p>
+
+<h4>41</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo alla contadina)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a young chicken and make some little holes in the skin in which you
+will put some sprigs of rosemary and a clove of garlic cut into five or
+six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped lard and season with salt
+and pepper inside and outside. When it is well browned on all parts add
+tomatoes cut in pieces, taking care to remove previously all the seeds.
+Moisten with broth or water. Brown some potatoes in oil, fat or butter,
+previously cutting them into sections. When browned dip in the sauce of
+the chicken and serve the whole together.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>42</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH SHERRY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo al marsala)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the chicken in big pieces and put it in the saucepan with one medium
+sized onion chopped fine and a piece of butter. Season with salt and
+pepper and, when it is well browned, add some broth and complete the
+cooking. Remove the excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through a
+sieve or otherwise, and put the chicken back on the fire with a glass of
+Sherry or Marsala wine, removing it from the fire as soon as the sauce
+begins to boil.</p>
+
+<h4>43</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo colle salsicce)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop fine half an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter
+and four or five slices of ham, half an inch wide. Over these
+ingredients place a whole chicken, season with pepper and a little salt
+and place on the fire. Brown it on all sides and, when the onion is all
+melted, add water or broth and three or four sausages freshly made. Let
+it cook on a low fire, seeing that the sauce remains liquid and does not
+dry up.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>44</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo in salsa d'uova)</h4>
+
+<p>Break into pieces a young chicken and put it in the saucepan with a
+piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper. When it is half browned
+sprinkle with a pinch of flour to give it color, then complete the
+cooking with broth. Remove it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat
+the yolk of one egg with the piece of half a lemon and pour it on the
+sauce of the chicken, allowing it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour
+on the chicken and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>45</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN BREASTS SAUT&Eacute;S</h4>
+
+<h4>(Petti di pollo alla saut&eacute;)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, give them the best
+possible shape and make a whole piece from the little pieces that will
+remain, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and mixing these. Season
+with salt and pepper and dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for
+a few hours. Sprinkle with bread crumbs ground fine and saut&eacute; in butter.
+Serve with lemon.</p>
+
+<p>If you want this dish more elaborate prepare a sauce in the following
+way: Put some good olive oil in a frying pan, just enough to cover the
+bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of dry<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> mushrooms. Sprinkle over
+a small quantity of grated cheese and some bread crumbs. Repeat the same
+operation three or four times, according to the quantity, and finally
+season with olive oil, salt and pepper and small pieces of butter. Put
+the pan over the fire and when it has begun to boil pour a small cup of
+brown stock or broth and a little lemon juice. Remove the same from the
+fire and pour it on the chicken breast that have been browned as
+described above.</p>
+
+<h4>46</h4>
+
+<h4>WILD DUCK</h4>
+
+<h4>(Anitra selvatica)</h4>
+
+<p>Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and
+legs. Chop fine a thick slice of ham with both lean and fat together,
+with a moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and half medium sized
+onion. Put the chopped ham and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck
+on the whole, seasoning with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides and add
+water to complete the cooking.</p>
+
+<p>Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and afterward allowed to complete
+the cooking in the sauce obtained from the duck, form a good addition.</p>
+
+<p>To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild duck, either wash it in
+vinegar before cooking or scald it in boiling water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>47</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED SQUABS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piccioni in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves and place them in a saucepan
+over a bed of small slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season
+with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire and when they begin
+to be browned, add a piece of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
+in some good broth. Before removing from the fire squeeze one lemon over
+them and garnish with squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care
+not to add too much salt on account of the ham and the broth both
+containing salt.</p>
+
+<p><b>Note</b>&mdash;Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with broth.
+When meat broth is not available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes
+or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, however, always preferable to
+use broth made with fresh meat.</p>
+
+<h4>48</h4>
+
+<h4>RAGOUT OF SQUABS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Manicaretto di piccione)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut two or more squabs at the joints, preferably in four parts each, and
+put them on the fire with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a bunch
+of parsley. When they begin to dry, add some broth and&mdash;before they are
+completely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> cooked&mdash;their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut in slices.
+Continue pouring in broth and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire.
+Add another piece of butter over which some flour has been sprinkled, or
+flour alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and
+squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs.</p>
+
+<p>Some sweetbread may be added with good effect, but it must be first
+scalded and the skin removed.</p>
+
+<h4>49</h4>
+
+<h4>SQUAB TIMBALE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Timballo di piccioni)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop together some ham, onion, celery and carrot, add a piece of butter
+and place on the fire with one or two squabs, according to the number of
+guests. Add the giblets from the squabs and some more of chicken, if at
+hand. Season with salt and pepper, and when the pigeons are browned,
+pour over some broth to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that
+the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it
+some macaroni that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni
+in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced B&eacute;chamel
+sauce, then cut the squabs at the joints, removing the neck, the legs
+and the bones of the back, when you would not bone<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> them entirely, which
+would be better. Cut the giblets in small pieces and remove the soft
+part of the onion.</p>
+
+<p>When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, season them with grated
+cheese, pieces of butter, diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg
+and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Add
+finally the B&eacute;chamel sauce and mix the whole.</p>
+
+<p>Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft pastry.
+Put everything in the mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry
+and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters
+of a pound of macaroni and two pigeons are enough for ten persons.</p>
+
+<h4>50</h4>
+
+<h4>SALMI OF GAME</h4>
+
+<h4>(Uccelli in salmi)</h4>
+
+<p>Roast the game completely, seasoning with salt and pepper. If the game
+be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove
+all the heads and grind them together with some pieces of birds, or some
+whole little birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter one
+half pound of bacon or ham cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one
+tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, one tablespoonful each
+of salt, thyme and sage.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour
+then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted game. Make it
+boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of
+bread.</p>
+
+<h4>51</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED HARE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufato di lepre)</h4>
+
+<p>Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting it in pieces, chop
+fine one medium sized onion, one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and
+several leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some pieces of butter,
+two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and four or five strips of bacon or salt
+pork, when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the
+pieces of hare inside the saucepan and season them with salt, pepper and
+spices. When it is browned, put a wineglass of white wine, some fresh
+mushrooms, or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Complete the
+cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if necessary, add another piece
+of butter.</p>
+
+<h4>52</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED RABBIT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Coniglio in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large pieces and put it on
+the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry,
+put<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and a hash
+composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of corned beef
+and some onion, celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
+Stir often and when it is browned add some tomato sauce and another
+piece of butter.</p>
+
+<h4>53</h4>
+
+<h4>GREEN SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa verde)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop all together some capers that have been in vinegar, one anchovy, a
+small slice of onion and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting
+hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of
+parsley, chopped together with some leaves of basil and dissolve the
+whole in very good olive oil and lemon juice.</p>
+
+<p>This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or
+hard boiled eggs.</p>
+
+<p>Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.</p>
+
+<h4>54</h4>
+
+<h4>WHITE SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa bianca)</h4>
+
+<p>This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The
+ingredients are &frac14; lb. of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a
+tablespoon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>ful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, broth or water
+in sufficient quantity.</p>
+
+<p>Put first on the fire the flour with half the butter and when it begins
+to be browned pour over it the broth or the water little by little,
+stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the butter and the
+vinegar without making the water boil too much. When taken off the fire
+add the yolk of the egg, stir and serve.</p>
+
+<h4>55</h4>
+
+<h4>YELLOW SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa gialla)</h4>
+
+<p>This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities
+indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish
+weighing about a pound.</p>
+
+<p>Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of flour and two
+ounces of butter, and when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it
+little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that is to say of the
+water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the flour
+does not rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce from the flour
+and pour over two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the yolk of an egg,
+stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a lemon
+and season generously with salt and pepper. Let it cool and then pour
+over the fish that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too
+liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.</p>
+
+<h4>56</h4>
+
+<h4>SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa per pesce in gratella)</h4>
+
+<p>This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted anchovies, olive oil and
+lemon juice. Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every
+hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. Bone the anchovies and
+rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and
+dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it like a cream. Cover
+with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve
+aside in a gravy boat.</p>
+
+<h4>57</h4>
+
+<h4>CAPER SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa con capperi)</h4>
+
+<p>This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are
+for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
+of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar one teaspoonful of
+flour, salt, pepper and vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce.
+Put on the fire the flour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> with half of the butter, mix it and when it
+begins to take color, add the remaining butter.</p>
+
+<p>Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the broth of the fish:
+season generously with salt and pepper and take the saucepan from the
+fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some
+drops of vinegar, but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant
+to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used
+together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and
+should be partaken of sparingly.</p>
+
+<h4>58</h4>
+
+<h4>GENOVESE SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa genovese)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of garlic. Then mix with
+some capers soaked in vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
+pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, soaked in vinegar.
+Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive
+oil, dosing right by tasting.</p>
+
+<h4>59</h4>
+
+<h4>BALSAMELLA SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa balsamella)</h4>
+
+<p>This sauce resembles the famous French B&eacute;chamel Sauce, but it is simpler
+in its composition.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour and a piece of butter as
+big as an egg. Stir the flour and the butter together while keeping them
+over the fire. When the flour begins to be browned, pour over a pint of
+milk, continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid
+condensed like a cream. This is the <b>Balsamella</b>. If it is too thick add
+some milk, if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of
+butter dipped in flour.</p>
+
+<p>A good <b>Balsamella</b> and some well prepared brown stock are the base and
+the principal secret of many savory dishes.</p>
+
+<h4>60</h4>
+
+<h4>CURLED OMELET</h4>
+
+<h4>(Frittata in riccioli)</h4>
+
+<p>Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat two eggs,
+season with salt and pepper and mix with them enough spinach to make the
+eggs appear green. Put the frying pan on the fire with only enough oil
+to grease it and when very hot put in a portion of the eggs, moving the
+frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. When well cooked, remove it
+from the frying pan and repeat the operation once or twice in order to
+have two or three very thin omelets. Put these one over the other and
+cut them in small strips that are to be browned in butter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> adding a
+little grated cheese. These strips of omelet, resembling noodles, form a
+tasty and attractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or a similar
+dish.</p>
+
+<h4>61</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL KIDNEY OMELET</h4>
+
+<h4>(Frittata di rognone di vitella)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a veal kidney, open it lengthwise and leave all its fat. Season
+with oil, salt and pepper, broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough
+eggs in proportion to the size of the kidney, season them with salt and
+pepper, both in moderate quantity and mix with them a sprig of parsley
+and some grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney in the eggs, mix all
+together and make an omelet with some butter.</p>
+
+<h4>62</h4>
+
+<h4>PUFF PASTE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta sfoglia)</h4>
+
+<p>The <b>Pasta sfoglia</b> is not too difficult to make and if the following
+instructions are carefully followed, this fine and light paste can
+easily be prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll it on but
+this is not absolutely necessary. A warm, damp day is not favorable for
+the making of the <b>Pasta sfoglia</b>, which succeeds better when the weather
+is cold and dry.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mix half a pound of flour of the very best quality with a piece of
+butter as big as a walnut, some warm, but not hot water, enough salt and
+a teaspoonful of good brandy. When the paste is formed knead it well for
+about half an hour, first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly
+with force against the bread board. Make a cake of a rectangular form,
+wrap it in cloth and let it rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the
+hand &frac12; lb. of butter that has been kept previously on ice or, better,
+in a bowl of ice-water, until it becomes smooth and flexible, then make
+of it a little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a bowl of
+cold water. When the dough has rested take the butter from the water,
+wipe it with a cloth and dip it in flour.</p>
+
+<p>Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary to enclose within the
+cake of butter. This is placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet
+of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fingers moistened in a
+little water so that no air remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first
+with the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the sheet as thin as
+possible, but taking care that the butter does not come out. If this
+happens throw at once a little flour where the butter appears and always
+have the marble slab (or bread board) and the rolling pin sprinkled with
+flour. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste, and again roll
+the folded strip, repeating the operation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> six times and letting the
+paste rest from time to time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold
+it in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness that is, about one
+third of an inch. After each folding press the edges gently with the
+rolling pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to roll in a
+different direction.</p>
+
+<p>When the paste has had six turns cut it into the desired forms and put
+on ice, or in a cold place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting
+it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the
+bottom.</p>
+
+<p>The puff paste is used for pat&eacute; shells and vol-au-vent cake and for
+light pastries of all kinds.</p>
+
+<h4>63</h4>
+
+<h4>PASTE FOR FRYING</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pastella per fritto)</h4>
+
+<p>Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with two teaspoonfuls of oil. Add two
+eggs, a pinch of salt, and mix well. This mixture will take on the
+aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze fried brains, sweetbreads
+and the like. All these things are first to be scalded in boiling salt
+water. Add a pinch of salt and one of pepper when taking from the water.
+The brains, sweetbreads etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces,
+thrown into the paste, or cream, described above and fried in oil or
+good lard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In frying these are often united to liver or veal cutlets. The liver
+must be cut in very thin slices and the cutlets beaten with the side of
+a big knife and given a good shape. Season with salt and pepper, dip in
+beaten egg and after a few hours sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry.
+Serve with lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>64</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN STUFFING</h4>
+
+<h4>(Ripieno di pollo)</h4>
+
+<p>The ingredients are &frac14; lb. lean veal or pork or breast of turkey and
+chicken giblets. Cook this meat together with a little hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot and butter. Season with salt pepper and spices,
+moistening it with broth. Take dry from the fire, take off the soft
+parts of the giblets, add a few dry mushrooms softened in water, a
+little slice of lean fat ham and chop everything fine. Into the sauce
+that has remained from the cooking throw enough breadcrumbs to make a
+tablespoonful of hard soaked bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a
+pinch of grated cheese and two eggs and fill the chicken with all this,
+sewing up the opening afterwards. The chicken can be boiled or stewed.
+If boiled you will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention when
+cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing in one piece in order to
+slice it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>65</h4>
+
+<h4>MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Ripieno di carne per pasticcini di pasta sfoglia)</h4>
+
+<p>This stuffing can be made either with stewed veal or chicken giblets or
+sweetbreads. The latter are preferable, being more delicate and a taste
+of truffles greatly improves the stuffing. If sweetbreads are used, put
+them on the fire with a piece of butter and season with salt and pepper.
+When they have begun to take color, complete the cooking with some brown
+stock, then cut them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or two
+spoons of <b>Balsamella</b> (see No. 54) a little tongue, one or two slices of
+ham cut in little squares, a pinch of grated cheese and a taste of
+nutmeg, seeing that the ingredients are in such quantities as to make
+the mixture tasty and delicate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it
+hardens and can be worked better.</p>
+
+<p>In order to enclose it in pat&eacute; shells made with puff-paste (see No. 57)
+there are two ways. One is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing,
+the other to fill them after they are cooked. In the first case put the
+stuffing in the prepared disk of paste, moisten the edge with a wet
+finger, cover with another disk of paste and cook. In the second case,
+which is more convenient because the shells can be prepared one day
+before, the two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> disks are put together without the stuffing, but in the
+upper disk a circular cut must be made as large as a half dollar coin.
+The pat&eacute; on cooking swells and leaves an empty space in the interior.
+Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle above, which has the
+form of a cover, the interior space can be made larger, filled with the
+stuffing and covered with the little cover. In this way it is enough to
+warm them before sending to the table. The puff-paste must always be
+glazed with the yolk of eggs.</p>
+
+<p>If a large vol-au-vent is to be filled instead of little pat&eacute;-shells, a
+ragout of chicken giblets and sweetbread, cut in large pieces, is
+better.</p>
+
+<h4>66</h4>
+
+<h4>PORK LIVER FRIED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fegato di maiale fritto)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut in to thin slices some pork liver, sprinkle with flour and fry in
+good lard. It must be served with its sauce. Squeeze in a lemon while it
+is frying.</p>
+
+<h4>67</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fritto composto alla Bolognese)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a piece of stewed lean veal, a little brain boiled or stewed, and a
+slice of ham. Chop and grind everything fine. Add a yolk of egg or a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+whole egg, according to the quantity, and a little <b>Balsamella</b> (see No.
+54). Put the hash on the fire and stir until the egg is cooked. Add
+finally grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have them, some
+truffles chopped very fine and put in a plate. When quite cold make some
+little balls as large as a walnut and roll them in flour. Then dip in
+beaten egg and bread crumb ground very fine, repeating the operation
+twice, and fry.</p>
+
+<h4>68</h4>
+
+<h4>ROMAN FRY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fritto alla Romana)</h4>
+
+<h4>I.</h4>
+
+<p>Put on the fire a hash of onion and butter and when it is well browned
+cook in it a piece of lean veal seasoned with salt and pepper. When the
+meat begins to brown put in a little sherry wine to complete the
+cooking.</p>
+
+<p>Pound the whole to soften it a little using the sauce remained and if
+this is not enough add some broth and finally the yolk of an egg. See
+that the whole is not softened too much.</p>
+
+<p>Now take some wafers, not too thin and cut them in squares similar to
+those used by druggists. Beat one egg and the white from the other egg,
+then take a wafer, dip it in the egg and place it on a layer of bread
+crumbs ground fine. On the wafer put a little ball of the compound<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+above, then dip another wafer in the egg, make it touch the bread crumbs
+only from the part that remains outside, and with this cover the
+compound attaching it to the lower wafer. Sprinkle again with bread
+crumbs if necessary and put the piece aside repeating the operation
+until all the meat is disposed of. Cook in oil or fat and serve with
+lemon.</p>
+
+<p>With half a pound of meat about twenty filled wafers should be obtained.</p>
+
+<h4>69</h4>
+
+<h4>ROMAN FRY</h4>
+
+<h4>II.</h4>
+
+<p>This can be made when you happen to have some breast of roast chicken
+left over. Some chicken breast, two or three slices of tongue and ham,
+one tablespoonful of grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, are the
+ingredients used. Remove the skin of the chicken and cut it as well as
+the tongue and the ham, into little cubes. Make a <b>Balsamella</b> (see No.
+54) in sufficient quantity and when it is cooked add the above
+ingredients and let it cool well to fry using the wafer as in the
+preceding.</p>
+
+<h4>70</h4>
+
+<h4>RICE PANCAKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Frittelle di riso)</h4>
+
+<p>Cook thoroughly &frac14; lb. of rice in about a pint of water giving it taste
+with a little piece of sugar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> and a taste of lemon peel. Leave it cool
+and then add three yolks of eggs and a little flour. Mix well and let
+the whole rest for several hours. When you are going to fry beat the
+white of an egg to a froth, add it to the rice and throw into the frying
+pan one tablespoonful at a time.</p>
+
+<p>Serve hot sprinkled with confectionery sugar.</p>
+
+<h4>71</h4>
+
+<h4>KIDNEY SAUT&Eacute;</h4>
+
+<h4>(Rognoni saltati)</h4>
+
+<p>Take one large kidney, or two or three small kidneys, open them and
+remove all the fat. Cut lengthwise in thin slices, salt and pour as much
+boiling water as is needed to cover them. When the water is thoroughly
+cooled, drain it and wipe well the slices with a cloth, then put them in
+a frying pan with a small piece of butter. Turn them often and when they
+have cooked for five minutes put in a pinch of flour and season with
+salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until thoroughly cooked and when
+you are going to take them away add another piece of butter, a sprig of
+chopped parsley and a little broth if needed. The kidney must not be
+kept too much on the fire, because in that case it hardens.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>72</h4>
+
+<h4>LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a shoulder or a leg of mutton and after having boned it, lard it
+with small pieces of bacon dipped in salt and pepper. Salt moderately
+the meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a pan that contains
+a piece of butter and one large onion larded with clover. When it begins
+to brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of broth, or of
+water, a little bunch of greens and some tomatoes cut in pieces. Put
+again on a low fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the
+saucepan closed, but opening from time to time to turn the meat. When it
+is cooked, throw away the onion, rub the sauce through a sieve, remove
+its fat and put it with the meat when served. The mutton must not be
+overdone, for in this case it cannot be sliced.</p>
+
+<h4>73</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED CUTLETS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Scaloppine alla Livornese)</h4>
+
+<p>Take some slices of tender beef, beat them well and put them in a
+saucepan with a piece of butter. When this is all melted, put one or two
+tablespoonfuls of broth to complete the cooking, season with salt and
+pepper, add a pinch of flour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> and before taking them from the fire put
+in a pinch of chopped parsley.</p>
+
+<h4>74</h4>
+
+<h4>CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Scaloppine di carne battuta)</h4>
+
+<p>Take some good lean beef, clean it well, removing all little skins and
+tendons, then first chop and after grind the meat fine in the grinder.
+Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese. Mix well and give
+the meat the form of a ball then with bread crumbs over and beneath
+flatten it with the rolling pin on the bread board making a sheet of
+meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut it in square pieces, as large as
+the palm of the hand and cook in a saucepan with butter. When these
+cutlets are browned, pour over some tomato sauce and serve.</p>
+
+<p>If you prefer, use your hands instead of the rolling pin and then you
+can give them the shapes you like.</p>
+
+<p>If you have some left over meat this can perfectly well be mixed with
+the raw meat and chopped and ground together.</p>
+
+<h4>75</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL CUTLETS STEWED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Scaloppine alla Genovese)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut some lean veal meat into slices and, supposing it be a pound or a
+little more, without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized onion and
+put it in a saucepan with oil and a little piece of butter. Put over the
+cutlets, one layer over the other, season with salt and butter and put
+on the fire. When the meat which is below is browned put in a
+teaspoonful of flour and after a while a hash of parsley with half a
+clove of garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the other, mix
+them, let them drink in the sauce, then pour hot water and a little
+tomato sauce. Make it boil slowly and not much to complete the cooking
+and serve with abundant sauce and with little diamonds of toast.</p>
+
+<h4>76</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED CUTLET</h4>
+
+<h4>(Braciuoline ripiene)</h4>
+
+<p>Slice from a piece of veal (about one pound) seven or eight cutlets and
+beat them well with a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some tender
+veal meat and one or two slices of ham and add a small quantity of
+marrow bone (of veal) and grated cheese. The marrow and the grated
+cheese must be reduced to a paste with the blade of a knife. One egg is
+then added to tie up the hash and a pinch of pepper, but no salt on
+account of the ham and the cheese that already contain it. Spread the
+cutlets and put the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie them
+with strong thread.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now prepare a small hash with a little onion, a piece of celery a piece
+of carrot and a small quantity of corned beef and put it in the fire in
+a saucepan with a small piece of butter, at the same time that you put
+the cutlets. Season with salt and pepper and when they begin to brown
+pour some tomato sauce and complete the cooking with water. Before
+serving, remove the thread with which the cutlets have been tied.</p>
+
+<h4>77</h4>
+
+<h4>MEAT OMELETTE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Polpettone)</h4>
+
+<p>Take one pound of veal, without bones, clean it well taking away all
+skins and tendons and then chop it together with a slice of ham. Season
+moderately with salt pepper and spices, add one whole egg then with
+moistened hands make a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with flour.</p>
+
+<p>Make a hash with two or three slices of onion (not more) parsley,
+celery, and carrot, put it on the fire with a piece of butter and when
+it is browned throw in the <b>Polpettone</b>. Brown well on all sides and then
+pour in the saucepan half a tumbler of water in which half a
+tablespoonful of flour has been previously diluted. Cover and make it
+simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it doesn't burn. When you serve
+with the gravy squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If desired a hard boiled egg can be put shelled in the center of the
+meat ball, so that it gives it a better appearance when sliced.</p>
+
+<h4>78</h4>
+
+<h4>LAMB WITH PEAS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Agnello ai piselli)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a piece of lamb from the hind side, lard it with two cloves of
+garlic cut in little strips and with some sprigs of rosemary. Chop fine
+a piece of lard and a slice of corned beef. Put the lamb on the fire
+with this hash and a little oil and let it brown after seasoning with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned add a piece of butter, some tomato
+sauce, or tomato paste dissolved in water or soup stock and complete the
+cooking. Take away the lamb, put the peas in the gravy, and when they
+have simmered a little and are cooked put back the lamb and serve.</p>
+
+<h4>79</h4>
+
+<h4>SHOULDER OF LAMB</h4>
+
+<h4>(Spalla d'agnello)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the meat of a shoulder of lamb in small pieces, or squares. Chop two
+small onions, brown them with a piece of butter and when they are
+browned put the meat and season with salt and pepper. Wait until the
+meat begins to brown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> and then add another piece of butter dipped in
+flour. Mix the whole and complete the cooking with soup stock or water
+with bouillon cubes poured in little by little.</p>
+
+<h4>80</h4>
+
+<h4>BREAST OF VEAL STEWED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufatino di petto di vitella)</h4>
+
+<p>Break a piece of breast of veal leaving all its bones.</p>
+
+<p>Make a hash with garlic, parsley, celery and carrot; add oil, pepper and
+salt and put on the fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when it
+begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of flour and a little tomato
+sauce or tomato paste diluted in water. Complete the cooking with broth
+or water. Finally add a piece of butter and pieces of celery cut in big
+pieces which must have been before half cooked in water and browned in
+butter. Care must be taken to keep the saucepan always covered, in this
+as in other stews.</p>
+
+<h4>81</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL WITH GRAVY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Vitella in guazzetto)</h4>
+
+<p>First take about one pound of veal and tie it well. Then cover the
+bottom of the saucepan with some thin slices of corned beef and a piece
+of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> butter. Over this place half a lemon cut in four thin slices from
+which the skin and the seeds must be removed. Over all this put the veal
+which must be well browned on all sides, but care must be taken not to
+burn it on account of the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove
+the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of hot milk, that has boiled.
+Cover the saucepan and complete the cooking. Before serving rub the
+gravy through a sieve.</p>
+
+<h4>82</h4>
+
+<h4>TRIPE WITH GRAVY</h4>
+
+<p>Boil some tripe in water and when it is boiled, cut it in strips, one
+quarter of an inch wide and wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a
+saucepan with butter, and when this is melted, add some brown stock or
+good tomato sauce. Season with salt and pepper, cook thoroughly and add
+a pinch of grated cheese before taking from the saucepan.</p>
+
+<h4>83</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fegato di vitella al sugo)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown in oil and butter, and
+when it has taken a dark red color, throw in the liver cut in thin
+slices. When half cooked season with salt, pepper and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> a pinch of
+chopped parsley. Make it simmer on a low fire so that the gravy remains,
+and serve in its gravy, squeezing over some lemon juice when sent to the
+table.</p>
+
+<p>In this and in similar cases, when using scallions or onions, some
+advise putting these in a cloth after being chopped and dip them in cold
+water squeezing them dry after.</p>
+
+<h4>84</h4>
+
+<h4>MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella)</h4>
+
+<p>Put in saucepan a slice of ham, some butter, a little bunch composed of
+carrot, celery and stems of parsley and over this some whole cutlets of
+mutton seasoned with salt and pepper. Make them brown on both sides, add
+another piece of butter, if necessary, and add to the cutlets some
+chicken giblets, sweetbreads and fresh or dry mushrooms (the latter
+softened in water), all cut in pieces. When all this begins to brown,
+pour some soup stock and let it simmer on a low fire. Sprinkle a little
+flour and finally pour a wineglass (or half a tumbler) of white wine
+leaving it boil a little more. When ready to serve remove the ham and
+the greens, rub the gravy through a sieve and remove the superfluous
+fat.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>85</h4>
+
+<h4>TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA</h4>
+
+<h4>(Filetto al marsala)</h4>
+
+<p>Roll a piece of the tenderloin, tie it and, if it is about two pounds,
+put it on the fire with a middle-sized onion cut in thin slices, some
+thin slices of ham and a piece of butter, seasoning but moderately with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned from all sides and the onion is
+consumed, sprinkle a pinch of flour, let this take color and then pour
+some soup stock or water. Make it simmer on a low fire, then rub the
+gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a small
+tumbler of Marsala or Sherry wine put it back on the fire to simmer
+again. Serve with the gravy neither too liquid nor too thick.</p>
+
+<p>The filet can also be larded with bacon and cooked in butter and Marsala
+only.</p>
+
+<h4>86</h4>
+
+<h4>MEAT GENOVESE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carne alla Genovese)</h4>
+
+<p>Take thick slices of good lean veal, weighing about a pound, beat it and
+flatten it well. Beat three or four eggs, season them with salt and
+pepper, a pinch of grated cheese and some chopped parsley. Fry the eggs
+in butter in the form of an omelet about the size of the meat over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps and putting the
+pieces where it lacks so as to cover the meat entirely. After that roll
+tight the meat together with the omelet and tie it with thread. Then
+sprinkle some flour over it and put it in a saucepan with a piece of
+butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. When it is well browned on all
+sides, pour some soup stock to complete the cooking and serve it in its
+gravy which will be thick enough on account of the flour.</p>
+
+<h4>87</h4>
+
+<h4>RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sfornato di riso con rigoglie)</h4>
+
+<p>Make a good brown stock (see No. 13) and use the same for the rice as
+well as for the giblets. To these add some thin slices of ham and brown
+them first in butter, seasoned moderately with salt and pepper,
+completing the cooking with brown stock. A taste of mushrooms will be
+found useful.</p>
+
+<p>Brown the rice equally in butter, then complete the cooking with hot
+water. Drain and put the brown stock, adding grated cheese and two
+beaten eggs, when the rice has cooled a little.</p>
+
+<p>Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it evenly with butter, cover
+the bottom with buttered paper and place in it the rice to harden it in
+the oven. When taken from the mold pour over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> the gravy from the
+giblets, slightly thickened with a pinch of flour and serve with the
+giblets around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for them.</p>
+
+<h4>88</h4>
+
+<h4>PUDDING GENOESE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino alla genovese)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop together a slice of veal, some chicken breast and two slices of ham
+and then grind or better pound them, with a small piece of butter, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and a crumb of bread soaked with milk.
+Rub through a sieve and add three tablespoonfuls of <b>Balsamella</b> (see No.
+54) which you will make thick enough for this dish, three eggs and just
+a taste of nutmeg, mixing everything well.</p>
+
+<p>Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with butter and put on the bottom a
+sheet of paper, cut according to the shape of the bottom and equally
+greased with butter. Pour over the above ingredients and cook in a
+vessel immersed in boiling water (double boiler).</p>
+
+<p>When taken from the mold, remove the paper and in its place put a gravy
+formed with chopped chicken giblets cooked in brown stock. Serve hot.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>89</h4>
+
+<h4>LIVER LOAF</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pane di fegato)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut about one pound of veal liver in thin slices and four chicken livers
+in two parts and put all this in a saucepan with rosemary and a piece of
+butter. When this is melted put in another piece and season with salt
+and pepper. After four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the liver
+(dry) and grind it together with the rosemary. In the gravy that remains
+in the saucepan put a big crumb of bread, cut into small pieces and make
+a paste that will also be ground with the liver. Then rub everything
+through a sieve, add one whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of grated
+cheese, diluting with brown stock or water. Finally put in a smooth mold
+with a sheet of paper in the bottom, all evenly greased with butter and
+cook in a double boiler. Remove from the mold when cool and serve cold,
+with gelatine.</p>
+
+<h4>90</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL WITH TUNNY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Vitello tonnato)</h4>
+
+<p>Take two pounds of meat without bones, remove the fat and tendons, then
+lard it with two anchovies. These must be washed and boned and cut
+lengthwise, after opening them, making<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> in all eight pieces. Tie the
+piece of meat not very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in
+enough water to cover it completely. Previously put into the water one
+quarter of an onion larded with clover, one leaf of laurel, celery,
+carrot and parsley. Salt the water generously and don't put the veal in
+until it is boiling. When the veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it
+for two or three days in the following sauce in quantity sufficient to
+cover it.</p>
+
+<p>Grind &frac14; pound tunny fish preserved in olive oil and two anchovies,
+crush them well with the blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding
+good olive oil in abundance little by little, and squeeze in one whole
+lemon, so that the sauce should remain liquid. Finally mix in some
+capers soaked in vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>Serve the veal cold, in thin slices, with the sauce.</p>
+
+<p>The stock of the veal can be rubbed through a sieve and used for
+risotto.</p>
+
+<h4>91</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zucchini ripieni)</h4>
+
+<p>For a description of the <b>Zucchini</b> see No. 32.</p>
+
+<p>To make the stuffed zucchini first cut them lengthwise in two halves and
+remove the interior pulp, leaving space enough for the filling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Take some lean veal (quantity in proportion to the squashes) cut it into
+pieces and place it on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot, a little corned beef cut in little pieces, a
+little oil, salt and pepper. Stir it often with a spoon and when the
+meat is brown pour in a cup of water and then another after a while.
+Then rub the gravy through a sieve and put it aside.</p>
+
+<p>Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the grinder and make a hash of
+it and one egg, a little grated cheese, a crumb of bread boiled in milk
+or in soup stock and just a taste of nutmeg. Put this hash inside each
+half squash and put them to brown in butter, completing the cooking with
+the gravy set aside.</p>
+
+<h4>92</h4>
+
+<h4>STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUT&Eacute;</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fagiolini e zucchini saut&eacute;)</h4>
+
+<p>Brown in butter some string beans, that have been previously half cooked
+in water and some raw squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in only
+when the butter is beginning to brown. Season moderately with salt and
+butter and add some brown stock or good tomato sauce.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>93</h4>
+
+<h4>STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo)</h4>
+
+<p>Take less than a pound of string beans, cutting off the two points and
+removing all the strings, and then cook them partially in water
+moderately salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and brown with
+butter, salt and pepper. Beat one yolk with a teaspoonful of flour and
+the juice of half a small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold broth
+from which the fat has been removed and put this liquid on the fire in a
+small saucepan stirring continually. When the liquid has become, through
+the cooking, like a cream, pour it on the string beans that you will
+keep on the fire a little longer, with the sauce. The string beans so
+prepared can be served with boiled beef.</p>
+
+<h4>94</h4>
+
+<h4>STRING BEANS IN MOLD</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sformato di fagiolini)</h4>
+
+<p>Take one pound of string beans, seeing that they are quite tender. Cut
+off the ends and remove the strings. Throw them into boiling water with
+a pinch of salt and when they are half cooked take them away and put
+them in cold water. If you have brown stock complete the cooking with
+this and with butter, otherwise brown a piece of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> onion, some parsley, a
+piece of celery and olive oil. When the onion is browned put in the
+string beans and complete the cooking with a little water if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare a <b>Balsamella</b> sauce (No. 54) with a small piece of butter, half a
+teaspoonful of flour and half a cup of milk. With this, a tablespoonful
+of grated cheese and four beaten eggs bind the string beans when they
+are cold, mix and put in a mold, evenly greased with butter and the
+bottom covered with paper. Cook in a double boiler and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>95</h4>
+
+<h4>CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sformato di cavolfiore)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a good sized cauliflower, remove the stalk and outside leaves, half
+cook it in water and then cut it into small pieces. Salt them and put
+them to brown with a little piece of butter and then complete the
+cooking with a cup of milk. Then rub them through a sieve. Prepare a
+<b>Balsamella</b> (No. 54) and add it to the cauliflower with 3 beaten eggs and
+a tablespoonful of grated cheese.</p>
+
+<p>Cook in a greased mold and serve hot.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>96</h4>
+
+<h4>ARTICHOKES IN MOLD</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sformato di carciofi)</h4>
+
+<p>Remove the outside leaves of the artichokes, the harder part of all
+leaves, and clean the stalks without removing them.</p>
+
+<p>Cut each artichoke into four parts and put them to boil in salt water
+for only five minutes. If left longer on the fire they become too soaked
+in water and lose their taste. Remove from the water, drain them, grind
+or pound and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so obtained with
+two or three beaten eggs, two or three tablespoonfuls of <b>Balsamella</b> (No.
+54) grated cheese, salt and a taste of nutmeg, but taste the seasoning
+several times to see that it is correctly dosed.</p>
+
+<p>Place in a mold with brown stock or meat gravy (in that case use a mold
+with a hole) and cook in double boiler.</p>
+
+<h4>97</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED MUSHROOMS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Funghi fritti)</h4>
+
+<p>Choose middle-sized mushrooms, which are also of the right ripeness:
+when they are too big they are too soft and if small they are too hard.</p>
+
+<p>Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do not keep in water, for then
+they would lose their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large
+slices and dip them in flour before putting in the frying pan. Olive oil
+is best for frying mushrooms and the seasoning is composed exclusively
+of salt and pepper to be applied when they are frying. They can also be
+dipped in beaten eggs after being sprinkled with flour, but this is
+superfluous.</p>
+
+<h4>98</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED MUSHROOMS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Funghi in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>For a stew the mushrooms ought to be below middle-size. Clean, wash and
+cut as for the preceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with olive oil, one
+or two cloves of oil and some mint leaves. When the oil begins to
+splutter, put the mushrooms in without dipping in flour, season with
+salt and pepper and when they are half cooked pour in some tomato sauce.
+Be sparing however, with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms do
+not absorb it too much and so lose some of their own delicate flavor.</p>
+
+<h4>99</h4>
+
+<h4>DRIED MUSHROOMS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Funghi secchi)</h4>
+
+<p>Mushrooms are an excellent condiment of various dishes and for this
+reason it is well to have some always at hand. Since, however, it is
+not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> always possible to have them fresh, the following recipe to prepare
+dried mushrooms will be found useful.</p>
+
+<p>First of all wait until there is a sunny day. Choose young mushrooms
+middle sized or big, but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean them well
+in order to remove the earth and, without washing cut them in big
+pieces. This because when dried they diminish considerably in size. Keep
+these pieces exposed in the sun for two or three days, then thread them
+on a string (practising a hole in them) and keep in a well ventilated
+room or in the sun until they become quite dry. Then put them away well
+closed in a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from time to time
+to see if it is necessary to expose them some more to sun and
+ventilation.</p>
+
+<p>To use them soften in warm water, but keep them in as little as
+possible, so that they do not lose their delicate flavor. The best time
+to dry the mushrooms is June or July.</p>
+
+<h4>100</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED EGG-PLANTS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Melanzane fritte)</h4>
+
+<p>Egg-plant or, as they are also called, mad-apples are an excellent
+vegetable which may be used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or
+middle-sized egg-plants are to be preferred, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the big ones have
+sometimes a slightly bitter taste.</p>
+
+<p>Remove the skin, cut into cubes, salt and leave them in a plate for a
+few hours. Then wipe them to remove the juice that they have thrown out,
+dip in flour and fry in oil.</p>
+
+<h4>101</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED EGG-PLANTS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Melanzane in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place on the fire with a piece
+of butter. When this is all absorbed, complete the cooking with tomato
+sauce (No. 12).</p>
+
+<h4>102</h4>
+
+<h4>EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Melanzane al forno)</h4>
+
+<p>Skin five or six egg-plants, cut them in round slices and salt them so
+that they throw out the water that they contain. After a few hours dip
+in flour and frying oil.</p>
+
+<p>Take a fireproof vase or baking tin and place the slices in layers, with
+grated cheese between each layer, abundantly seasoned with tomato sauce
+(No. 12).</p>
+
+<p>Beat one egg with a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce, a
+teaspoonful of grated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> cheese and two of crumbs of bread, and cover the
+upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the oven and when the egg
+is coagulated, serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>103</h4>
+
+<h4>DRESSING OF CELERY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sedano per contorno)</h4>
+
+<p>The following are three ways to prepare celery to be served as seasoning
+or seasoning for meat dishes. For the first two make the pieces about
+four inches long, and two inches for the third. The stalk must be
+skinned, cut crosswise and left attached to the rib of the celery. Boil
+it in water moderately salted not over five minutes and remove dry.</p>
+
+<p>1. Put the celery to brown in butter, then complete the cooking with
+brown stock (No. 13) and sprinkle with grated cheese when serving.</p>
+
+<p>2. Put in saucepan a piece of butter and a hash made with ham and a
+middle sized onion, chopped fine. Add two cloves and make it boil. When
+the onion is browned add soup stock or hot water with bouillon cubes and
+complete the cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve and put the
+gravy in a plate with the celery, seasoning with pepper only, as the
+salt is already in the ham and serve with the gravy.</p>
+
+<p>3. Dip the celery in flour and in the paste for frying (No. 58) and fry
+in fat or oil. Or else<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> dip in flour and then in beaten egg, wrap in
+bread crumbs and fry.</p>
+
+<h4>104</h4>
+
+<h4>ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi in salsa)</h4>
+
+<p>Remove the hard leaves of the artichokes, cut the points and skin the
+stalk. Divide each artichoke into four parts or six if they are big, and
+put them on the fire with butter in proportion, seasoning with salt and
+pepper. Shake the saucepan to turn them and when they have absorbed a
+good part of the melted butter, pour in some broth to complete the
+cooking. Remove them dry, and in the gravy that remains put a pinch of
+chopped parsley, one or two teaspoonfuls of cheese grated fine, lemon
+juice, more salt and pepper if needed, and, mixing the whole, make it
+simmer for a while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and add one or
+two yolks of egg, according to the quantity and put back on the fire
+with more broth to make the sauce loose. Put the artichokes in the sauce
+this second time to heat them and serve especially as a side-dish for
+boiled meat.</p>
+
+<h4>105</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED ARTICHOKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi ripieni)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small outside leaves and wash the
+artichokes. Then cut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> the top and open the internal leaves so that you
+can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove the hairy part if it is
+there. Keep aside the small interior leaves to put them with the
+stuffing. This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes, must be
+composed of the above small leaves, 1/8 lb. of ham more lean than fat,
+one fourth of a small onion, just a taste of garlic, some leaves of
+celery or parsley, a pinch of dry mushrooms, softened in water, a crumb
+of bread and a pinch of pepper, but no salt.</p>
+
+<p>First chop the ham, then grind everything together and with the hash
+fill the artichokes, and put them to cook standing on their stalks in a
+saucepan with some oil, salt and pepper. Some prefer to give the
+artichokes a half cooking in water before stuffing it, but it is hardly
+advisable, because in this way they lose part of their special flavor.</p>
+
+<h4>106</h4>
+
+<h4>ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Carciofi ripieni di carne)</h4>
+
+<p>For six artichokes, make the following stuffing:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">&frac14; lb. lean veal.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Two slices of ham, more fat than lean.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">The interior part of the artichokes.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">One fourth of onion (small).</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Some leaves of parsley.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One pinch of softened dried mushrooms.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One small crumb of bread rolled and sifted.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One pinch of grated cheese.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>When the artichokes have been browned with oil alone, pour a little
+water and cover with a moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The
+steam that surrounds the artichokes cooks them better.</p>
+
+<h4>107</h4>
+
+<h4>PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piselli alla francese)</h4>
+
+<p>The following recipe is good for one of fresh peas. Take two young
+onions, cut them in half, put some stems of parsley in the middle and
+tie them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of butter and when
+they are browned, pour over a cup of soup stock. Make it boil and when
+the onions are softened rub them through a sieve together with the gravy
+that you will then put on the fire with the peas and two whole hearts of
+lettuce. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer. When the peas
+are half cooked add another piece of butter dipped in a scant
+tablespoonful of flour and pour in some broth, if necessary. Before
+sending to the table put in two yolks of eggs dissolved in a little
+broth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>II</h4>
+
+<p>The following recipe is simpler than the preceding, but not so delicate.
+Cut an onion in very thin slices and put it on the fire in a saucepan
+with a little butter. When it is well browned add a pinch of flour, mix
+and then add according to the quantity, a cup or two of soup stock or
+water with bouillon cubes and allow the flour to cook. Put in the peas,
+season with salt and pepper and add, when they are half cooked, one or
+two whole hearts of lettuce. Let it simmer, seeing that the gravy is not
+too thick.</p>
+
+<p>Before serving remove the lettuce.</p>
+
+<h4>108</h4>
+
+<h4>PEAS WITH HAM</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piselli col prosciutto)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut in two one or two young onions, according to the quantity of the
+peas and put them on the fire with oil and one thick slice of ham cut
+into small cubes. Brown until the ham is shrivelled; then put the peas
+in, season with a pinch of pepper and very little salt, mix and complete
+the cooking with broth, adding a little butter.</p>
+
+<p>Before serving, throw the onion away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>109</h4>
+
+<h4>PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piselli con la carne secca)</h4>
+
+<p>Put on the fire a hash of corned beef, garlic, parsley and oil, season
+with a little salt and pepper and when the garlic is browned, put the
+peas in. When they have absorbed the sauce, complete the cooking with
+broth or, failing that, with water.</p>
+
+<h4>110</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED TOMATOES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pomodori ripieni)</h4>
+
+<p>Select ripe middle-sized tomatoes, cut them in two equal parts and scoop
+out the inside seeds. Season with salt and pepper and fill the tomatoes
+with the following hash, in such a way as to make the stuffing come over
+the edge of the half tomato:</p>
+
+<p>Make a hash with onion, parsley and celery, put it on the fire with a
+piece of butter and when it is browned, put in a small handful of dried
+mushrooms previously softened in water and chopped very fine: add a
+tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk, season with salt and
+pepper and let the compound simmer, moistening with water if necessary.
+When you take from the fire add, when it is still lukewarm, grated
+cheese<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> and a beaten yolk (or two) of egg, but seeing that the compound
+does not become too liquid.</p>
+
+<p>When the tomatoes are filled, take them in the oven with a little butter
+and oil mixed together and serve them as a side-dish for roast beef or
+steak.</p>
+
+<p>The stuffed tomatoes can be made simpler with a hash of garlic and
+parsley mixed with bread crumbs, salt and pepper and seasoned with oil
+when they are in the saucepan.</p>
+
+<h4>111</h4>
+
+<h4>CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cavolfiore colla balsamella)</h4>
+
+<p>Remove from a good sized cauliflower the external leaves and the green
+ribs, make a deep cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in salted
+water. Then cut it in sections and brown with butter, salt and pepper.
+Put it in a baking tin, throw over a small pinch of grated cheese, cover
+with the <b>balsamella</b> (No. 54) and brown the surface.</p>
+
+<p>Serve this cauliflower as an <b>entremets</b> or as a side-dish with boiled
+chicken or a stew.</p>
+
+<h4>112</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED CABBAGE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cavolo ripieno)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a big cabbage, remove the hard outside leaves, cut the stem off
+even with the leaves<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> and give it half cooking in salt water. Put it
+upside down to drain, then open the leaves one by one until the heart is
+exposed and on this put the stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close
+them and tie with thread crosswise.</p>
+
+<p>The stuffing can be made with milk veal stewed alone, or with sweetbread
+or chicken liver, all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, add some
+<b>balsamella</b> (No 54) a pinch of grated cheese, one yolk of egg and a taste
+of nutmeg. Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sauce of this
+stew, adding a little butter, on a low fire or in the oven kept low.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of filling the whole cabbage, the larger leaves may be filled
+one by one, rolling and tying them.</p>
+
+<h4>113</h4>
+
+<h4>SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Spinaci per contorno)</h4>
+
+<p>After cooking the spinach in boiling water and chopping them fine, the
+spinach can be cooked in different ways:</p>
+
+<p>1. With butter, salt and pepper, adding a little brown stock, if you
+have it, or a few tablespoonfuls of broth, or milk.</p>
+
+<p>2. With onion sauce (onion chopped very fine) and butter.</p>
+
+<p>3. With butter salt and pepper, adding a very small pinch of grated
+cheese.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>4. With butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato
+paste diluted with soup stock or water.</p>
+
+<h4>114</h4>
+
+<h4>ASPARAGUS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sparagi)</h4>
+
+<p>Asparagus can be prepared in many different ways, but the simplest and
+best is that of boiling them and serving them seasoned with olive oil
+and vinegar or lemon juice. However there are other ways as, for
+instance, the following: Put them whole to brown a little with the green
+part in butter and, after seasoning them with salt, pepper and a pinch
+of grated cheese, pour over the melted butter when it is browned. Or
+else divide the white from the green part and place them as follows in a
+fireproof plate: Dust the bottom with grated cheese and dispose over the
+points of the asparagus one near the other; season with salt, pepper,
+grated cheese and little pieces of butter. Make another layer of
+asparagus and, seasoning in the same way, continue until you have them.
+Be moderate in the seasoning. Cross the layers of asparagus like a
+trestle, put on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is melted. Serve
+hot.</p>
+
+<p>If you have some brown stock, parboil them first and complete the
+cooking with brown stock,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> adding a little bust and dusting moderately
+with grated cheese.</p>
+
+<h4>115</h4>
+
+<h4>FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pesce col pane grattato)</h4>
+
+<p>This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is made especially when
+you have boiled fish of good quality left over.</p>
+
+<p>Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all the bones, then put it
+in the <b>balsamella</b> (No. 54) and season with enough salt, grated cheese
+and some mushrooms chopped fine. If dried mushrooms soften in water
+first. Then take a fireproof plate, grease it evenly with butter and
+dust with bread crumbs ground fine; pour into it the fish prepared as
+above and cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs. Finally put over a
+piece of butter, brown in the oven and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>116</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED FISH CUTLETS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pesce a taglio in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>The fish that can be used for this dish are the tunny, the umber or
+grayling, the sword fish and any piece of fish of large size and good
+savor. A pound may be sufficient for four or five persons.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in flour and put to brown in
+a little oil. Remove dry, throw away the oil that remains and clean the
+saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with half a middle sized
+onion, a piece of white celery and a good pinch of parsley. Put this to
+brown on the fire with sufficient oil and season with salt, pepper and
+one whole clove. When it is browned put abundant tomato sauce (No 12) or
+tomato paste diluted in broth or water. Let it simmer for a while, then
+place the fish to complete the cooking, turning it over frequently. The
+fish must be served with this thick gravy that ought to be abundant.</p>
+
+<h4>117</h4>
+
+<h4>WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Merluzzo alla Palermitana)</h4>
+
+<p>Take one whiting, one pound or a little more, and trim all the fins,
+leaving the tail and the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season
+with a little salt and pepper. Turn it on the back, grease with oil,
+season with salt and pepper, dust with bread crumbs then lay it with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil on a fireproof plate or baking tin.</p>
+
+<p>Take three or four good sized anchovies, bone and clean them, chop them
+and put on the fire with two tablespoonfuls of oil, but do not allow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> it
+to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the fish and dust it all with
+bread crumbs, putting also some leaves of rosemary. Bake in the oven,
+allowing a little crust to form over, but see that it doesn't dry up,
+pouring over to this purpose more oil. Before removing from the tin
+squeeze half a lemon over.</p>
+
+<p>This dish can be served surrounded by little toast with caviar, or
+anchovies and butter.</p>
+
+<h4>118</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED EEL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Anguille in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>For this dish it is preferable to have good sized eels that must not be
+skinned, but cut in small pieces.</p>
+
+<p>Chop some onion and parsley, put it on the fire with oil, salt, and
+pepper, and when the onion is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until
+it has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then complete the
+cooking with tomato sauce (No. 12).</p>
+
+<p>See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with little squares or
+diamonds of toast.</p>
+
+<h4>119</h4>
+
+<h4>EELS WITH PEAS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Anguille coi piselli)</h4>
+
+<p>Cook the eels as above with the onion sauce and when it is cooked remove
+it dry to cook the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> green peas in the sauce. The pieces of eel should be
+put back in the sauce to be warmed. No tomato sauce is necessary here.</p>
+
+<h4>120</h4>
+
+<h4>MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arselle in salsa d'uovo)</h4>
+
+<p>A good washing with fresh water is sufficient for mussels that do not
+have any sand to be cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce of
+oil, garlic, parsley and a pinch of pepper. Shake them and keep the
+saucepan covered seeing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take
+them out when they are open and prepare the following sauce: one or more
+yolks of egg, according to the quantity, lemon juice, one teaspoonful of
+flour, broth and some of their own juice. Cook this sauce until it
+becomes a smooth cream and pour it on the mussels when they are served.</p>
+
+<h4>121</h4>
+
+<h4>MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arselle alla livornese)</h4>
+
+<p>Chop fine half an onion and put it on the fire with oil and a pinch of
+pepper. When the onion begins to brown add a pinch of parsley chopped
+not very fine and after put in the mussels with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> tomato sauce (No. 12)
+or tomato paste diluted in water. Shake them often and when they are
+open, put them over slices of toast prepared beforehand and arranged on
+a plate.</p>
+
+<h4>122</h4>
+
+<h4>CODFISH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Baccal&aacute;)</h4>
+
+<h4>I</h4>
+
+<p>Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, changing the water two or
+three times, or, better, keeping it for some time in a vase under
+running cold water. Then cut it into pieces as large as the palm of the
+hand and dip them in flour until they are well covered. Then put a
+kettle or a saucepan on the fire with plenty of oil and two or three
+cloves of garlic, whole but a little crushed. When the garlic begins to
+brown put in the codfish and brown it on both sides, stirring it often,
+so that it doesn't burn. Salt is not necessary, or at least only a
+little after tasting, but a little pepper will not be amiss. Finally
+pour over some tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted in water,
+let it boil a little more and serve.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>123</h4>
+
+<h4>II</h4>
+
+<p>The following is another way to prepare the codfish, slightly different
+from the preceding. Cut the codfish as above, then put it as it is in
+saucepan with some olive oil. Spread over it a hash of garlic and
+parsley and season with a pinch of pepper, oil and little pieces of
+butter. Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, because, not being
+sprinkled with flour, it breaks easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a
+lemon over and serve.</p>
+
+<h4>124</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED CODFISH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Baccal&aacute; fritto)</h4>
+
+<p>Place the codfish on the fire&mdash;after washing as explained in No. 107&mdash;in
+a kettle with cold water and as salt, and as soon as the water boils,
+remove the codfish.</p>
+
+<p>After boiling cut it in little pieces and remove all the bones. Sprinkle
+some flour and dip in a frying paste composed of water, flour and a
+little oil. Fry in oil and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>125</h4>
+
+<h4>CODFISH CROQUETTES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cotolette di baccal&aacute;)</h4>
+
+<p>Boil as explained above and, if the quantity is one pound or a little
+more put together two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> anchovies and some parsley, chopping everything
+together very fine. Add some pepper, a tablespoonful of grated cheese,
+three or four tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of bread crumbs in large
+pieces, water and butter, and two eggs. Give the compound the form of
+several flat cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and in ground bread crumbs.
+Fry in oil and serve with lemon, or tomato sauce.</p>
+
+<h4>126</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED DOG-FISH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Palombo fritto)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the dog-fish in slices, not very thick, and place it in a plate with
+beaten eggs somewhat salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour
+before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of bread crumbs, grated
+cheese, garlic and parsley chopped fine, salt and pepper. A clove of
+garlic is sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in oil and serve with
+lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>127</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED DOG-FISH</h4>
+
+<h4>(Palombo in umido)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the dog-fish in rather big pieces and then make a hash of garlic,
+parsley and very little onion. Put this hash on the fire with oil and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces of dog-fish and season
+with salt and pepper. When the fish is cooked pour over some tomato
+sauce (No. 12), let this simmer for a while, then serve.</p>
+
+<h4>128</h4>
+
+<h4>ROAST-BEEF</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto)</h4>
+
+<p>Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still it is prepared in a
+peculiar way by the Italians, and hence this recipe finds its place
+here.</p>
+
+<p>To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two pounds ought to be cooked
+on a strong fire. It ought to be covered with good olive oil and finally
+with cup of soup stock which with the oil and the juice from the meat
+will form a rich gravy. Salt it only when it is half cooked and do it
+moderately, because the beef is already tasty by itself.</p>
+
+<p>Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup is served and the meal
+begins. This will be sufficient if the piece is not very big. To
+ascertain the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin
+larding-pin, but not often, in order not to allow too much juice to
+escape. The juice must neither be of the color of the blood nor too
+dark.</p>
+
+<p>If baked it is to be seasoned with salt, oil and a piece of butter,
+surrounded by raw potatoes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of broth or
+of water. If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it into slices and
+warm with butter and brown stock or tomato sauce.</p>
+
+<h4>129</h4>
+
+<h4>ROAST VEAL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto di vitella)</h4>
+
+<p>Choose for that milk veal that is to be found all the year round,
+although it is always better during the spring or summer.</p>
+
+<p>The piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a saucepan, slightly larded
+with garlic and rosemary, with oil, butter and a hash of corned beef,
+salt, pepper and tomato sauce. In the gravy fresh peas can be cooked.</p>
+
+<h4>130</h4>
+
+<h4>POT ROAST</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto morto)</h4>
+
+<p>This can be done with all kinds of meats, but the best is milk veal.
+Take a good piece of the loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on
+the fire with good olive oil and butter, both in small quantity. Brown
+well from all sides, salt when half cooked and complete the cooking with
+a half cup of broth, seeing that little juice remains. If no broth is at
+hand, use tomato sauce, or tomato<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> paste diluted with water. Some corned
+beef chopped fine can also be added.</p>
+
+<h4>131</h4>
+
+<h4>POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto morto coll'odore dell'aglio e del ramerino)</h4>
+
+<p>Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of garlic and one or two bunches
+of rosemary in the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the gravy
+through a sieve without pressing and surround the meat with potatoes or
+vegetables cooked apart.</p>
+
+<p>The leg of lamb comes very well in this way, baked in the oven.</p>
+
+<h4>132</h4>
+
+<h4>BIRDS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto di uccelli)</h4>
+
+<p>The best way to cook birds, and that nearly always used by the Italians,
+is roasted at the spit. They must be spitted with a small slice of bread
+between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very thin slices of bacon, in
+such a way that it can be spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the
+bacon almost as thin as paper. Pass some oil&mdash;only once&mdash;over when they
+begin to brown, using<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> a brush or a feather, and salt only once,
+moderately.</p>
+
+<p>Put on the fire when near to be served, otherwise they may get dry and
+lose much of their flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good
+fire.</p>
+
+<h4>133</h4>
+
+<h4>ROAST OF LAMB</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto d'agnello)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a leg of lamb and season it with salt, pepper, oil and a drop of
+vinegar. Pierce it here and there with the point of a knife and leave it
+like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay leaf or rosemary to
+be removed when serving. The leg of lamb can be baked or, as the
+Italians do, cooked at the spit.</p>
+
+<h4>134</h4>
+
+<h4>LEG OF MUTTON</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cosciotto di castrato arrosto)</h4>
+
+<p>Before cooking see that several days elapse after the animal has been
+butchered. This, naturally, according to the temperature. Beat it well
+with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the middle bone, without
+spoiling the meat. Then tie it and give it a good fire at the beginning,
+covering the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> own juice and in
+a cup of broth strained to remove the fat; nothing else. Salt when it is
+almost cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor rare, just
+medium. Serve with its juice apart in a sauce.</p>
+
+<h4>135</h4>
+
+<h4>ROAST OF HARE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto di lepre)</h4>
+
+<p>The part of the hare fitted for roast is the hind quarters, but the
+limbs of this game are covered with little skins that must be carefully
+removed, before cooking, without cutting the muscles.</p>
+
+<p>Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or fourteen hours in a liquid
+prepared as follows: put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of water
+with half a tumbler of vinegar or less in proportion with the piece to
+be cooked, three of four scallions chopped fine, one or two bay-leaves,
+a bunch of parsley, a little salt and a pinch of pepper; make it boil
+for five or six minutes, cool and pour when cold over the hare. When you
+remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard it all with little
+pieces of good bacon.</p>
+
+<p>Cook on a low fire, salt it sufficiently and grease with cream and
+nothing else. Never use the liver of the hare which, it is said, is very
+indigestible.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>136</h4>
+
+<h4>POT ROAST LARDED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Arrosto morto lardellato)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a piece short and thick of beef or veal, quite tender and weighing
+about two pounds or a little more. Lard it with ham or bacon cut in
+little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a stewpan with a piece of
+butter, one fourth of a middle-sized onion cut in two pieces, three or
+four ribs of celery half an inch thick and as many slices of carrot.
+Season with salt and pepper and when the meat begins to brown&mdash;turning
+it often&mdash;pour over one cup of water and complete the cooking on a low
+fire, leaving it to absorb great part of the gravy. See, however, that
+it doesn't dry up and become black. When you send to the table strain
+the juice that has remained and pour it on the meat, that may be
+surrounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept whole if small,
+previously browned in butter or oil.</p>
+
+<h4>137</h4>
+
+<h4>PIGEON SURPRISE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piccione a sorpresa)</h4>
+
+<p>The pigeon (or chicken) must be opened and stuffed with a cutlet of milk
+veal. Of course this cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+to render it thinner and more tender, season with salt, pepper, a pinch
+of spices and little pieces of butter, roll it and put inside the pigeon
+sewing the opening. The liver and giblets of the pigeon can be cooked
+apart in brown stock or in butter, after being chopped. With the
+resulting gravy the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the different
+flavor of the two qualities of meat is better amalgamated.</p>
+
+<h4>138</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED BEEF CUTLET</h4>
+
+<h4>(Braciuola di manzo ripiena)</h4>
+
+<p>The ingredients for this dish are a slice of beef half an inch thick,
+weighing about one pound, half a pound or less of lean milk veal, two
+small slices of ham and two or three of tongue, one scant tablespoonful
+of grated cheese, a piece of butter, two chicken livers, one egg, a
+crumb of bread as large as a closed fist.</p>
+
+<p>Make a hash with a small onion, a little celery, carrot and parsley, put
+it on the fire with the butter and when it is browned, place in the
+saucepan the veal cut in small pieces and the chicken livers, season
+with little salt and pepper and complete the cooking with a little
+broth. Remove the veal and chicken when cooked, and chop them fine. In
+the gravy that remains make a pap rather hard with the crumb of bread,
+moistening<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> with broth if necessary. Now mix the chopped meat, the pap,
+the eggs, the cheese, the ham and tongue cut in little pieces. When the
+stuffing is composed thus, dip the cutlet in water, in order to stretch
+it better, beat it with the back of the knife and flatten with its
+blades. Put the stuffing inside and roll up and tie tightly with a
+string crosswise. Roast or bake with oil and salt.</p>
+
+<h4>139</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED CHICKEN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo ripieno)</h4>
+
+<p>For a middle-sized fowl use the following ingredients: two sausages, the
+liver and giblets of the fowl, eight or ten chestnuts well roasted, some
+pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg, one egg. If, instead of a fowl,
+it is a turkey, double the dose.</p>
+
+<p>Begin by giving the sausages and the giblets half a cooking, moistening
+them with a little broth if necessary. Season with a little salt and
+pepper on account of the sausages that already contain them. Remove them
+and in the gravy that remains put a crumb of bread, in order to obtain
+with a little broth two tablespoonfuls of thick pap. Skin the sausages,
+chop the chicken giblets and the giblets and grind everything together
+with the chestnuts, the egg and the pap; this is the stuffing with which
+the fowl is to be filled,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold
+than hot, and it can also be cut better.</p>
+
+<h4>140</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo al diavolo)</h4>
+
+<p>This ought to be cooked with Cayenne pepper and served with a highly
+seasoned sauce, but not everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook
+the chicken "al diavolo" is the following:</p>
+
+<p>Take a young chicken, remove the neck and the legs, open it all in front
+and flatten it open as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a towel,
+then put it on the grill and when it begins to brown turn it. Grease it
+with melted butter or with oil, using a brush, and season with salt and
+pepper. The later may be Cayenne pepper for those who like it. Keep
+turning and greasing until it is all cooked.</p>
+
+<p>To prepare the sauce piquante that many like with chicken broiled in
+this way, put four tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and when it
+begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it is
+well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the
+range and slowly add two cupfuls of brown stock, stirring constantly,
+add salt and a dash of Cayenne and let simmer for ten minutes. In
+another saucepan boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar one table<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>spoonful
+of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar rapidly for five minutes;
+then add it to the sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful of
+chopped capers two tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle and one teaspoonful
+of tarragon vinegar. Stir well and let cook for two minutes to heat the
+pickles. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little water.</p>
+
+<p>This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all roasts and boiled meats,
+besides being a fitting condiment for the chicken "al diavolo".</p>
+
+<h4>141</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN WITH HAM</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo in porchetta)</h4>
+
+<p>Fill a chicken with thin strips of ham, about half an inch wide. Add
+three cloves (or sections) of garlic, two little bunches of fennel and a
+few grains of pepper. Season outside with salt and pepper and cook in a
+saucepan with butter, or preferably bake in the oven. Sausages cut
+lengthwise and previously skinned can be substituted for the ham.</p>
+
+<h4>142</h4>
+
+<h4>CHICKEN SAUT&Eacute;</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pollo saltato)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a young chicken, remove the neck and trim the wings. Cut away the
+legs. Cut the chic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>ken into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. Beat
+an egg with a teaspoonful of water and place in it the pieces of chicken
+after dipping them in flour and seasoning generously with salt and
+pepper. Leave the pieces in the egg until it is time for cooking. Then
+take the pieces one by one, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place a
+saucepan with a good piece of butter on the fire. When the butter begins
+to brown put in the pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then
+turn them when browned to the other side. Let them on a good fire for
+about ten minutes. Serve with lemon. The chicken prepared in this way is
+good also when cold.</p>
+
+<h4>143</h4>
+
+<h4>AFRICAN HEN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gallina di Faraone)</h4>
+
+<p>This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should not be too fresh, like
+all game.</p>
+
+<p>The best way to cook the African hen is roasted at the spit. Put in the
+inside a ball of butter dipped in salt and wrap it in a piece of paper
+greased with butter and sprinkled with salt. This paper must be removed
+when the fowl is nearly cooked, and then the cooking is completed
+greasing with more butter and adding more salt.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>144</h4>
+
+<h4>TAME DUCK ROASTED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Anatra domestica arrosto)</h4>
+
+<p>Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with slices of bacon, large
+and thin. Grease with oil and salt moderately when the cooking is almost
+complete. If you have a wild duck grease with butter, as the meat is
+drier.</p>
+
+<h4>145</h4>
+
+<h4>TURKEY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Tacchino)</h4>
+
+<p>The turkey has been imported to Europe from America, but it is
+nevertheless a well known dish in Italian families, although not
+enjoying the popularity that it has on this side of the ocean. When
+roasted it is generally larded moderately with little pieces of garlic
+and bay-leaf or rosemary and seasoned with a hash of corned beef or
+bacon, a little butter, salt and pepper, tomato sauce or tomato paste
+diluted in water. The breast, flattened until it is about half an inch
+thick and seasoned generously some hours before cooking with oil, salt
+and pepper, is excellent broiled on the grill.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>146</h4>
+
+<h4>LOIN OF PORK ROASTED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Lombo di maiale arrosto)</h4>
+
+<p>The loin of pork, cut in little pieces forms an excellent roast at the
+spit. The pieces of pork are to be divided by little pieces of toast and
+greased with oil.</p>
+
+<p>If the pork is to be baked, choose that piece of the loin that has its
+ribs and that may weigh six or eight pounds. Lard it with garlic,
+rosemary or bay leaf and a few cloves, but moderately, and season with
+salt and pepper.</p>
+
+<p>This roast is very popular in Italy, where they call it <b>arista</b>.</p>
+
+<h4>147</h4>
+
+<h4>LEG OF LAMB</h4>
+
+<h4>(Agnello all'Orientale)</h4>
+
+<p>This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient and adopted by the
+Italians, especially in Southern Italy. The leg of lamb is to be larded
+with the larding pin with slices of bacon seasoned with salt and pepper,
+greased with butter or milk, or milk alone and salted when half cooked.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do not lard it, as pork is
+forbidden by their religion, but cook it with an abundance of milk.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>148</h4>
+
+<h4>BROILED PIGEON</h4>
+
+<h4>(Piccione in gratella)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a young, but fat pigeon, divide it in two parts lengthwise and
+flatten it well with the hands. Then put it to brown in oil for four or
+five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season when still hot with salt
+and pepper, then arrange it as follows.</p>
+
+<p>Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of butter and mix the
+liquid butter with one beaten egg. Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg
+and keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with bread crumbs
+ground fine. Cook on a grill on a a low fire and serve with a sauce or a
+side dish.</p>
+
+<h4>149</h4>
+
+<h4>STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Bistecca nel tegame)</h4>
+
+<p>If you have a steak that does not appear to be too tender, put it in a
+saucepan with a little piece of butter and some good olive oil, with a
+taste of garlic and bay-leaf or rosemary. Add, if necessary, a little
+broth or water or tomato sauce and serve with potatoes cooked in the
+gravy that can be made more abundant with more broth, butter and tomato
+sauce.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>150</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Rognone alle acciughe)</h4>
+
+<p>Take a veal kidney, remove the fat, cut it open and cover with boiling
+water. When the water has cooled, remove the kidney, wipe with a cloth,
+and pass through it clean sticks to make it stay open. Season with
+melted butter, salt and pepper and leave it so prepared for an hour or
+two.</p>
+
+<p>Then take another piece of butter and two or three anchovies. Clean the
+latter, chop and mix with the butter with the blade of a knife, making a
+ball. Cook the kidney on the grill, but not too much, in order to keep
+it tender, put it on a plate and grease when hot with the ball of butter
+and anchovies.</p>
+
+<h4>151</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL KIDNEY SLICED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Rognone di vitello affettato)</h4>
+
+<p>Cut in thin slices one or two veal kidneys, removing the granulous part
+that is to be found in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan with
+a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley chopped very fine together with a
+clove of garlic. Add a cup of hot broth; salt moderately and let it cook
+without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to about one third.</p>
+
+<p>One tablespoonful of vinegar adds a pleasant taste to this dish.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>152</h4>
+
+<h4>BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Rognone di montone alla graticola)</h4>
+
+<p>After washing the kidneys, remove the filmy skin that covers them and
+cut them in the middle without, however, detaching completely the two
+parts. Season with salt and pepper, grease with oil and put them on a
+strong fire on the grill. After ten or twelve minutes they will be
+broiled. Serve hot with parsley and slices of lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>153</h4>
+
+<h4>MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Granelli di montone fritti)</h4>
+
+<p>Wash, remove the skin that covers the kidneys and cut in very thin
+slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip first in ground bread crumbs, then in a
+beaten egg mixed with melted butter, then again in the bread crumbs.
+This must be done rapidly, at the time of frying, otherwise the bread
+crumbs absorb the moisture of the kidney and make them too hard.</p>
+
+<p>Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan on a strong fire and when it begins
+to brown, dip the slices of kidney. Turn often, sprinkle with a little
+parsley chopped fine, salt and serve with lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>154</h4>
+
+<h4>BEEF TONGUE BOILED</h4>
+
+<h4>(Lingua di bue lessa)</h4>
+
+<p>The tongue is boiled like the beef. When half cooked remove the skin,
+which is not nice to see<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> and has no nutritious elements, although it is
+is served with a pur&eacute;e of peas, or spinach or potatoes or beans, etc.
+But it can be served simply with sprigs of parsley.</p>
+
+<h4>155</h4>
+
+<h4>BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Lingua di bue alle olive)</h4>
+
+<p>Scald the tongue and peel off the skin. Then put it back to boil until
+fully cooked.</p>
+
+<p>Melt a piece of butter and brown half a medium sized onion cut in
+slices. When the onion is browned remove it from the butter and dilute
+in the latter a teaspoonful of flour. When the flour begins to brown,
+thin it with one or two cups of soup stock hot and passed through a
+sieve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.</p>
+
+<p>When the sauce is prepared place the tongue in the saucepan containing
+it and let it cook again on a low fire for about an hour, turning it
+over frequently and keeping it moistened with the gravy. Cut some olives
+in a spiral to remove the stone and place it in the saucepan with the
+tongue. This becomes more tasty if left with the olives for one or two
+days.</p>
+
+<h4>156</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED BEEF TONGUE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Lingua di bue in stufato)</h4>
+
+<p>Clean a fresh tongue of beef; put it in a plate,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> salt it generously and
+put it back in the ice-box or in the pantry, until the following day.</p>
+
+<p>After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling water, skin and lard with
+little pieces of bacon and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in
+which the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning consists of &frac12;
+lb. bacon cut in very thin slices, &frac14; lb. butter, one or two thin
+slices of ham and two middle sized onions, sliced. Sprinkle the tongue
+with flour, surround it with chopped meat and place the saucepan on the
+fire. When the tongue begins to brown, pour five or six cups of soup
+stock and one cup of water. Add the usual bunch of greens, two or three
+cloves, salt, a pinch of pepper and one of cinnamon.</p>
+
+<p>Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four hours, rub the sauce
+through a sieve and serve everything hot.</p>
+
+<h4>157</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL SWEETBREADS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Animelle di vitello)</h4>
+
+<p>Keep in fresh water for an hour. Then place them in a skimmer (ladle
+with holes) and dip in boiling water or broth. After a brief boiling
+remove and cool in cold water. Then remove the veins and gullet, taking
+care not to tear them. The sweetbreads are prepared in various ways and
+here we give some of the best known:</p>
+
+<p><b>Sweetbreads with butter.</b>&mdash;Boil in broth or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> water, clean and cut into
+slices. Brown a piece of butter with salt and pepper. Then place the
+sliced sweetbreads and brown them. Before serving squeeze on a little
+lemon juice. The sweetbreads prepared in this way are served preferably
+with rice or vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sweetbreads with white sauce.</b>&mdash;Boiled, cleaned and cut into slices, they
+are placed in white sauce or <b>balsamella</b> (No. 54) adding a taste of
+nutmeg, pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sweetbreads in fricassee.</b>&mdash;Boil, trim and cut into pieces. Then brown in
+butter with a scallion chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the gravy
+in which pour a tablespoonful of flour, moistened with broth. The sauce
+that results is bound with egg-yolks and lemon juice.</p>
+
+<p><b>Sweetbreads fried.</b>&mdash;Boil and trim. Then cut in large slices, neither too
+thick nor too thin. Dip in beaten egg and in bread crumbs ground. Then
+fry in butter. Serve with vegetables.</p>
+
+<h4>158</h4>
+
+<h4>TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Filetto alla piemontese)</h4>
+
+<p>Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little skins. Then sprinkle
+with nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and place in an earthen vase
+covered, together with a bunch of aromatic herbs, sage, parsley,
+rosemary, onion, carrot and celery, all chopped fine. After a few hours
+melt and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> brown a piece of butter with the aromatic herbs, then remove
+the latter and place the tenderloin, leaving it to simmer for half an
+hour, pricking it often with a large fork or a larding pin, to add its
+juice to the gravy. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>159</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED ONIONS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cipolle ripiene)</h4>
+
+<p>Boil six large onions for an hour. Then drain and skin. Remove the heart
+with the point of a knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing
+made with &frac14; lb. ham or tongue, chopped and mixed with bread crumbs
+ground, two tablespoonfuls of milk, two pinches of salt and one of
+pepper. When the onions are prepared and stuffed place them in a
+saucepan whose bottom has been greased with butter, sprinkle with bread
+crumbs ground and place in the oven, not too hot. At the time of serving
+add some white sauce or <b>balsamella</b> (No 54). Stuffed onions are served as
+vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or boiled-beef.</p>
+
+<h4>160</h4>
+
+<h4>STEWED ONIONS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cipolle in stufato)</h4>
+
+<p>Keep in cold water, for half an hour, two pounds of middle-sized onions.
+Afterward skin and place in a saucepan in which pour as much broth as is
+necessary to cover them. Let them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> cook on a low fire for an hour, if
+they are scallions, or young onions. If they are not, two hours are not
+enough, sometimes.</p>
+
+<p>When cooked and soft, drain and place in a large deep dish. Brown a
+piece of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, a cup of broth, salt and
+pepper. Mix everything and when it begins to boil pour the sauce on the
+onions, which must be served hot.</p>
+
+<h4>161</h4>
+
+<h4>VEAL LIVER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fegato di vitella alla veneziana)</h4>
+
+<p>Brown a large onion cut in thin slices in oil and place in the saucepan
+the liver cut in thin slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When
+the liver takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is overdone, it
+becomes too hard. Salt just before removing from the saucepan.</p>
+
+<h4>162</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED LIVER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Fegato al tegame)</h4>
+
+<p>Clean and trim the liver, then cut in slices half an inch thick. Dip in
+flour and place, without delay in a saucepan in which a small onion has
+been browned in butter. Salt just before serving.</p>
+
+<h4>163</h4>
+
+<h4>POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Polenta colle salsicce)</h4>
+
+<p>The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> Italy and can be
+prepared in various ways. Always, however, it is better to serve with
+the addition of sausages, or with birds or tomato paste.</p>
+
+<p>The <b>polenta</b> is practically cornmeal and it is made with the so-called
+<b>farina gialla</b> or yellow flour.</p>
+
+<p>The ingredients for a good polenta are one pound of corn meal,
+preferably granulous, one quart and a half of water, salted in
+proportion, one piece of butter, one cup and a half of milk.</p>
+
+<p>Pour the meal little by little into boiling water, continually stirring
+with a wooden spoon. When the meal is half cooked, put the butter and
+pour the milk little by little. While the <b>polenta</b> boils, place on the
+fire in a little saucepan a tablespoonful of olive oil or a small piece
+of butter. When the oil is hot or the butter is melted, put some
+sausages repeatedly pricked with a fork.</p>
+
+<p>When the sausages are cooked, pour the polenta hot in a dish and place
+the sausages and the gravy in a cavity practised in the middle. Serve
+hot.</p>
+
+<p>In cooking the sausages two or three bay-leaves may be added and removed
+before serving.</p>
+
+<h4>164</h4>
+
+<h4>SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsicce alla cipollata)</h4>
+
+<p>The <b>salsicce alla cipollata</b> are prepared with fresh and lean pork meat
+and bacon in equal quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with salt,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+pepper and spices. Add a proportional quantity of onions chopped very
+fine, not too much, however. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails,
+tie every two inches to divide the sausages.</p>
+
+<h4>CELERY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sedano)</h4>
+
+<p>Beside being used as a condiment with a great quantity of dishes, the
+celery may be prepared in various different ways to form appetizing
+vegetable dishes. We give here a certain number of those that appear
+most commonly on Italian tables:</p>
+
+<h4>165</h4>
+
+<h4>CELERY WITH BUTTER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sedano al burro)</h4>
+
+<p>Two heads of celery for each person.</p>
+
+<p>Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are too hard, and the leaves,
+that are to be cut where they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem.
+Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain and put to boil in salted
+boiling water. Remove when cooked and drain again.</p>
+
+<p>About three quarters of an hour before serving, melt a piece of butter
+in a saucepan and brown the celery, turning them often for about ten
+minutes. After that pour over hot stock (soup stock or chicken broth)
+cover the saucepan and parboil. A few moments before serving season with
+brown stock, if you have any at hand, otherwise with salt and pepper
+only.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>166</h4>
+
+<h4>CELERY AU JUS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sedano al sugo)</h4>
+
+<p>Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor too soft, and cut them
+about four inches from the root. Remove the green and hard branches and
+trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. Scald the celery, after
+washing well, in salted boiling water. Ten minutes will be sufficient.
+Dip in cold water, open well the leaves and wash again carefully. Drain
+and make bunches of two or three heads each that you will put in a
+saucepan with a pint of broth or water and half a cup of good fat, onion
+and carrot chopped, salt and pepper. Cover and let it simmer for about
+two hour. Then remove the celery, drain and serve.</p>
+
+<h4>167</h4>
+
+<h4>SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Salsa per sedani al sugo)</h4>
+
+<p>The celery, prepared as above, are seasoned with the following sauce:
+Make a <b>roux</b> melting a piece of butter and browning an equal weight of
+flour; stir for about three minutes on the fire, after which thin the
+roux with a little brown stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in water.
+Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub through a sieve, pour
+over the celery and serve very hot.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>168</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED CELERY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sedani fritti)</h4>
+
+<p>This is a convenient way to prepare left-over celery that is still too
+good to be thrown away.</p>
+
+<p>Clean the left-over celery removing as best you can the sauce in which
+they were served, dip in frying paste (flour and egg) fry and serve with
+lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>169</h4>
+
+<h4>PUREE OF CELERY</h4>
+
+<h4>(Macco di sedani)</h4>
+
+<p>Take some big roots of celery, prepare as usual and wash in running
+water. Boil in salted water, crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a
+saucepan this pur&eacute;e, with a piece of butter, salt, flour and a little
+cream or milk. The milk may be substituted with good soup stock or brown
+stock. Just before serving add a little powdered sugar.</p>
+
+<h4>170</h4>
+
+<h4>STEW</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufato)</h4>
+
+<p>The Italian <b>stufato</b> is somewhat different from the stewed meat that is
+known under the name of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French <b>daube</b>
+and is prepared in Italy in many different ways.</p>
+
+<p>An excellent <b>stufato</b> can be made in the following way: Chop fine two
+bunches of parsley,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> a small carrot, half a medium sized onion, a little
+piece of scallion and two bay-leaves. Brown with a good piece of butter
+in a saucepan in which one and a half tablespoonful of oil have been
+previously poured.</p>
+
+<p>The meat must have been prepared beforehand, that is to say washed,
+trimmed and larded. When half cooked, season moderately with salt and
+pepper. If necessary, moisten with broth or water. During the cooking
+the saucepan must be covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper
+greased with fat or oil. The stufato will be ready after about three
+hours' cooking on a low fire.</p>
+
+<h4>171</h4>
+
+<h4>SOUTHERN STEW</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufato Meridionale)</h4>
+
+<p>Put the piece of meat in a saucepan of such a size that it remains
+completely filled, moisten with two cups of water and two of white wine,
+season with salt and pepper and cook for five hours on a low fire.</p>
+
+<h4>172</h4>
+
+<h4>STEW MILANAISE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufato alla milanese)</h4>
+
+<p>Beat and flatten a good piece of meat and lard with bacon or ham cut in
+small pieces. Season with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Sprinkle
+flour over the meat.</p>
+
+<p>Place in a saucepan a little fat of beef chopped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> with a middle sized
+onion and brown with a piece of butter. When the onion is browned,
+remove it and place the meat over the melted butter. Brown with melted
+butter. Then fill the saucepan with half water, half red wine, but only
+when the meat is browned from all sides. Cover the saucepan the best you
+can, with cover and greased paper and let it simmer for five or six
+hours on a very low fire.</p>
+
+<p>After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the gravy through a sieve, put
+again on the fire and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>173</h4>
+
+<h4>FRENCH STEW</h4>
+
+<h4>(Stufato alla francese)</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer of thin slices of ham, on
+which place several little cubes also of bacon. In the middle place a
+bunch of parsley, and around this some cloves, half an onion sliced, a
+few carrots in little cubes several young onions, bay-leaf, salt, and
+pepper.</p>
+
+<p>On this bed lay the meat that may be larded with bacon or ham and
+seasoned with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Pour on the meat two
+cups of soup stock or water and one cup of white wine. Cover the
+saucepan hermetically and cook on a very low fire for five hours.</p>
+
+<p>When the stufato is to be served cold, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> gravy is to be rubbed
+through a sieve before it gets cold.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Note.</b>&mdash;In these and similar dishes we have indicated the use of
+wine, which is a common ingredient, in small quantities in Italian
+and French cooking. This, however, can always be dispensed with if
+its taste is not appreciated, or for any other reason.</p></div>
+
+<h4>174</h4>
+
+<h4>TROUT ALPINE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Trota all'alpigiana)</h4>
+
+<p>These are many ways to prepare this delicious fish, found in abundance
+in the many streams of clear water that run from the Alps and the
+Apennine mountains. Often the trout is cooked in wine, but, of course,
+this part many be changed.</p>
+
+<p>For the <b>trota all'alpigiana</b>, so called because it is the favorite dish
+of Piedmont, the trout must be cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then
+salted and left under the action of the salt for about an hour.</p>
+
+<p>Pour in a fish-kettle one quart of white wine to which will be added
+three medium sized onions a few cloves, two sections of garlic and a
+little bunch made of thyme, bay-leaf, basil or mint; finally a piece of
+butter as large as an egg, dipped in flour. Then put the trout in the
+fish-kettle and place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled the
+trout is cooked. Remove the onions and the bunch of greens and serve the
+trout with its gravy and some parsley.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>175</h4>
+
+<h4>TROUT LOMBARD</h4>
+
+<h4>(Trota fritta)</h4>
+
+<p>Clean, scale, wash and wipe the trout. Salt and leave for half an hour.
+Fill with water half a fish-kettle; add half a lemon, two bay-leaves,
+one carrot light or ten berries of pepper, one onion divided into four
+parts, salt and three cloves. When the water is lukewarm, dip in the
+trout. Cook on a moderate fire and serve the trout with parsley, slices
+of lemon and young potatoes boiled. A good fish-sauce ought to accompany
+it.</p>
+
+<h4>176</h4>
+
+<h4>FRIED TROUT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Trota fritta)</h4>
+
+<p>Small and young trouts are best for frying. Scale, clean, wash and wipe.
+Then dip in flour and fry like the other fish in oil or in butter. Serve
+with browned parsley and lemon.</p>
+
+<h4>177</h4>
+
+<h4>TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Trota alle acciughe)</h4>
+
+<p>Scale, clean wash and wipe the trouts. Cut the sides and place to pickle
+with salt, pepper berries, garlic, parsley and onions chopped fine; with
+mushrooms chopped fine with thyme, bay-leaf and mint, all seasoned with
+good olive oil. Rub the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> trout in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve with anchovy
+sauce (No. 17).</p>
+
+<h4>178</h4>
+
+<h4>EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Uova trippate)</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare some hard boiled eggs, shell and cut into disks one third of an
+inch thick.</p>
+
+<p>Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter in which brown half an onion cut
+into thin slices, to be removed from the butter when browned. Then add
+to the butter two teaspoonfuls of flour, mix but don't allow to brown,
+thin with a cup of hot broth, add salt and pepper and let simmer for ten
+minutes. Put the sliced eggs in the sauce to warm them, stir a little,
+but carefully to avoid breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before
+serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of cream and stir carefully.</p>
+
+<h4>179</h4>
+
+<h4>EGGS WITH HAM</h4>
+
+<h4>(Uova al prosciutto)</h4>
+
+<p>Place in a frying pan as many pieces of butter, large like a nut, as
+there are eggs to be cooked. For each piece of butter put a little slice
+of ham and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as the butter is
+melted break an egg on each slice of ham. Let cook for ten minutes on a
+moderate fire.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>180</h4>
+
+<h4>EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Uova al pomidoro)</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare some hard boiled eggs, cut them through the middle lengthwise,
+place in good order upon a plate and pour some good tomato sauce, taking
+care not to cover the upper part of the eggs, which must emerge from the
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of the tomato, the eggs may be arranged with a <b>balsamella</b> sauce
+(No. 54).</p>
+
+<h4>181</h4>
+
+<h4>SCRAMBLED EGGS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Uova strapazzate)</h4>
+
+<p>Break the eggs in a plate, assuring first that they are all fresh.</p>
+
+<p>Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter about as big as an egg. When it is
+melted pour the egg and scramble them with a fork on a low fire.</p>
+
+<p>When the eggs are cooked season moderately with salt and butter. Just
+when you take them away from the fire and before serving add a
+tablespoonful of milk or liquid cream. Serve hot with a little grated
+cheese.</p>
+
+<p>The scrambled eggs can be served with points of asparagus, truffles,
+mushrooms, etc. which are prepared just as if they were to go in an
+omelet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II</h2>
+
+<h2>PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, SYRUPS</h2>
+
+<h4>182</h4>
+
+<h4>PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di nocciuole)</h4>
+
+<p>Shell half a pound of hazelnuts in warm water and dry them well at the
+sun or on the fire, then grind them very fine, together with sugar, of a
+weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one quart of milk on the fire,
+and when it begins to boil, put two third lb. lady fingers or macaroons
+crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding a small piece of
+butter. Rub everything through a sieve and put back on the fire with the
+nuts to dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs, first the
+yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a mold greased with butter and
+sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not be all full.
+Bake in the oven and serve cold.</p>
+
+<p>This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten persons.</p>
+
+<h4>183</h4>
+
+<h4>CRISP BISCUITS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Biscotti croccanti)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One pound of flour.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Half a pound granulated sugar.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">&frac14; lb. sweet almonds, whole and shelled, mixed to a few pine-seeds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A piece of butter, one and a half ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of anise-seeds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Five eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Leave back the almonds and pine-seeds to add them afterward, and mix
+everything with four eggs, so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to
+make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half an inch thick and as
+large as a hand, place them in a receptacle greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs. Bake in the
+oven, but only as much as will still permit cutting the cakes into
+slices, which you will do the day after, as the crust will then be
+softened. Put the slices back in the oven, so that they will be toasted
+on both sides and you will have the crisp biscuits.</p>
+
+<h4>184</h4>
+
+<h4>SOFT BISCUITS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Biscotti teneri)</h4>
+
+<p>For these biscuits it would be necessary to have a tin box about four
+inches wide and a little less long than the oven used. In this way the
+biscuits will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little more than
+half an inch, they will be of the right proportion. The ingredients
+needed are:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, about two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potato meal, a little less.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, four ounces (&frac14; lb.)</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds 1&frac12; ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Candied orange or angelica, one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Fruit preserve, one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Three eggs.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds, cut them in half lengthwise and dry in the sun or at
+the fire. Pastry cooks usually leave them with the skin but it is much
+preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the candied fruits and the
+preserve.</p>
+
+<p>Stir for a long while, about half an hour the sugar in the egg-yolks and
+a little flour then add the white of the eggs well beaten and when every
+thing is well beaten add the flour, letting it fall from a sieve. Mix
+slowly and scatter on the mixing the almonds and the cubes of candied
+and preserved fruit. Grease and sprinkle the tin box with flour. Bake in
+the oven and cut the biscuits the day after. If desired these can also
+be roasted on both sides.</p>
+
+<h4>185</h4>
+
+<h4>BISCUITS SULTAN</h4>
+
+<h4>(Biscotto alla sultana)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, four ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potato meal, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Currants, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Candied fruits, one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Five eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Two tablespoonfuls of brandy.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Put first on the fire the currants and the candied fruits cut in very
+little cubes with as much brandy or cognac as is necessary to cover
+them: when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn out of the fire
+until the liquor is all consumed: then remove the currants and candy and
+let them dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour the sugar
+with the egg-yolks and the taste of lemon peel. Beat well the white of
+the eggs and pour them on the sugar and yolks. Add the flour and potato
+meal letting them fall from a sieve and stir slowly until everything is
+well mixed together. Add the currants and the pieces of candied fruits
+and pour the mixing in a smooth mold or in a high and round cake-dish.
+Grease the mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar
+or flour. Put at once in the oven to avoid that the currants and the
+candied fruits fall in the oven.</p>
+
+<h4>186</h4>
+
+<h4>MARGHERITA CAKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta Margherita)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potato meal, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lemon juice.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Beat well the egg-yolks with the sugar, add the potato meal and the
+lemon juice and stir everything for half an hour. Finally beat well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> the
+whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually but slowly. Pour the
+mixture in a smooth and round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled
+with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven.</p>
+
+<p>Remove from the mold when cold and dust with powdered sugar and vanilla.</p>
+
+<h4>187</h4>
+
+<h4>MANTUA TART</h4>
+
+<h4>(Torta Mantovana)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, five ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds and pine-seeds, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One whole egg.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four egg-yolks.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First work well with a ladle the eggs with the sugar, then pour the
+flour little by little, still stirring, and finally the butter,
+previously melted in a double steamer (bain-marie). Put the mixture in a
+pie-dish greased with butter and sprinkled with flour or bread crumbs
+ground. On top put the almonds and the pine-seeds. Cut the latter in
+half and cut the almonds, previously skinned in warm water, each in
+eight or ten pieces. This tart must not be thicker than one inch, so
+that it can dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot.</p>
+
+<p>Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>188</h4>
+
+<h4>CURLY TART</h4>
+
+<h4>(Torta ricciolina)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones, four ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, six ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Candied fruits or angelica, 2&frac12; ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, two ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Mix two eggs with flour, flatten the paste to a thin sheet on a bread
+board and cut into thin noodles. In a corner of the bread board make a
+heap of the almonds with the sugar, the candied fruit cut in pieces and
+the grated lemon peel. All this cut and crush so as to reduce the
+mixture in little pieces. Then take a pie-dish and without greasing it,
+spread a layer of noodles on the bottom, then pour part of the mixture,
+then another layer of noodles and continue until there remains no more
+material, trying to have the tart at least one inch thick. When it is so
+prepared cover with the melted butter, using a brush to apply it evenly.</p>
+
+<h4>189</h4>
+
+<h4>ALMOND CAKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Bocca di dama)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, nine ounces,</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">Very fine Hungarian flour, five ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with some bitter ones, two ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six whole eggs and three egg yolks,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>After skinning the almonds in warm water and drying them well, grind or
+better pound them well together with a tablespoonful of sugar and mix
+well with the flour. Put the rest of the sugar in a deep dish with the
+egg yolks and the grated lemon peel (just a taste) and stir with a ladle
+for a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the six whites of egg and
+when they have become quite thick mix them with other ingredients
+stirring slowly everything together.</p>
+
+<p>To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin greased evenly with butter and
+sprinkled with powdered sugar and flour.</p>
+
+<h4>190</h4>
+
+<h4>CORN MEAL CAKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta di farina gialla)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Corn meal, seven and a half ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Wheat flour, five and a half ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, five and a half ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, three and a half ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lard, two ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of anise seed,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One egg.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Mix together the corn meal, the flour and the anise seed and knead with
+the butter, the lard and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> the egg that quantity that you can, forming a
+loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to be kneaded with water
+forming another loaf. Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not
+much because the dough must remain soft. Flatten with the rolling pin
+until it becomes one quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with flour, and
+cut in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.</p>
+
+<p>Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with flour, glaze with the egg,
+bake and dust with powdered sugar.</p>
+
+<h4>191</h4>
+
+<h4>BISCUIT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Biscotto)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six eggs,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, nine ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, four ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potato meal, two ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and
+a tablespoonful only of the flour and meal, using a ladle. Beat the
+whites of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly with the first
+mixture and when they are well incorporated pour over from a sieve the
+flour and the potato meal, previously dried in the sun or on the fire.</p>
+
+<p>Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about one inch and a half thick,
+previously greasing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered
+sugar mixed with flour.</p>
+
+<p>In these cakes with beaten whites the following method can also be
+followed: mix and stir first the yolks with the sugar, then put the
+flour then, after a good kneading, beat the whites until they are firm,
+pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the mixture, then the rest little by
+little.</p>
+
+<h4>192</h4>
+
+<h4>CAKE MADELEINE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasta Maddalena)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, four and a half ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, three ounces,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, one ounce,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Egg-yolks, four,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Whites of eggs, three,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and when they have become
+whitish, add the flour and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the
+butter, melting or softening it fine if it is hard and finally add the
+whites when they are well beaten. The flour must be previously dried in
+the sun or on the fire.</p>
+
+<p>This cake may be given different shapes, but keep it always thin and in
+little volume. It can be put in little molds greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> not more than
+half an inch thick, and cutting it after baking in the shape of diamonds
+and dusting with powdered sugar.</p>
+
+<h4>193</h4>
+
+<h4>ALMOND CRISP-TART</h4>
+
+<h4>(Croccante)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, four and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds, divide the two parts and cut each part into small
+pieces. Put these almonds so cut at the fire and dry them until they
+take a yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put the sugar on the
+fire in a saucepan and, when it is perfectly melted, pour the almonds
+hot and already slightly browned. Now lower the fire and be careful not
+to allow the compound to be overdone. The precise point is known when
+the mixture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little by little in a
+cold mold, previously greased with butter or oil. Press with a lemon
+against the walls of the mold, making the mixture as thin as possible.
+Remove from the mold when perfectly cooled and, if it is difficult to do
+so, dip the mold in boiling water.</p>
+
+<p>The almonds can also be dried in the sun and chopped fine, adding a
+small piece of butter when they are in the sugar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>194</h4>
+
+<h4>WAFER BISCUITS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cialdoni)</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a kettle:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Brown sugar, one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lard virgin, half an ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Cold water, seven tablespoonfuls.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First dilute the flour and the sugar in the water, then add the lard.</p>
+
+<p>Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an appropriated iron for
+flattened wafers. When it is quite hot open it and place each time half
+a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press well. Pass over
+the fire on both sides, trim all around with a knife and open the iron
+when you see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it from one side of
+the iron and hot as it is roll it on the iron itself or on a napkin
+using a little stick. This operation must be made with great rapidity
+because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot be rolled.</p>
+
+<p>Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, grease it from time to
+time, and if they are not firm enough, add a little flour.</p>
+
+<p>These wafer-biscuits are generally served with whipped cream.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>195</h4>
+
+<h4>QUINCE CAKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Cotognata)</h4>
+
+<p>The ingredients are about six pounds of quinces and four pounds of
+granulated sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Put on the fire the apples covered with water, and when they begin to
+crack remove them, skin and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the
+latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the fire with the sugar and
+stir continually in order that it may not attack to the bottom of the
+kettle. It will be enough to boil for seven or eight minutes and remove
+when it begins to form pieces when lifted with the ladle.</p>
+
+<p>Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread it on a board to the
+thickness of about a silver dollar and dry it in the sun covered with
+cheese cloth to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut it in the form
+of chocolate tablets and remove each piece from the board passing the
+blade of a knife underneath.</p>
+
+<p>If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about three and a half pounds of
+granulated sugar with two tablespoonfuls of water and when the sugar has
+boiled enough to "make the thread" smear every one of the little quince
+cakes with it. If the sugar becomes too hard during the operation put it
+back on the fire with a little water and make it boil again. When the
+sugar is dry on one side and on the edge, smear the other side.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>196</h4>
+
+<h4>PORTUGUESE CAKE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Focaccia alla Portoghese)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, five ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, five ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potato meal, one and a half ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Three eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One big orange or two small.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, then add the flour, then
+the almonds skinned and chopped fine, then the orange juice (through a
+colander) then a taste of orange peel. Finally add to the mixture the
+whites of the eggs well beaten. Put in a paper mold greased evenly with
+butter, with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a very moderately
+hot oven. After baked, cover with a white glaze or frost, made with
+powdered sugar, lemon juice and the white of eggs.</p>
+
+<h4>197</h4>
+
+<h4>MACAROONS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Amaretti)</h4>
+
+<h4>I</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, nine ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Bitter almonds, half of the above quantity.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Whites of egg, two.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin and dry the almonds, then chop them very fine. Mix the sugar and
+the whites of egg and stir for about half an hour, then add the al<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>monds
+to form a rather hard paste. Of this make little balls, as large as a
+small walnut. If the paste is too soft add a little butter, if too hard
+add a little white of egg, this time beaten. Were it desired to give the
+macaroons a brownish color, mix with the paste a little burnt sugar.</p>
+
+<p>As you form the little ball, that you will flatten to the thickness of
+one third of an inch, put them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with half flour and half
+powdered sugar. Dispose them at a certain distance from one another as
+they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty inside.</p>
+
+<p>Bake in an oven moderately hot.</p>
+
+<h4>II</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Powdered sugar, ten and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Bitter almonds, one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Two whites of egg.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds and dry them in the sun or on the fire, then chop and
+grind very fine with one white of egg poured in various times. When this
+is done, put half of the sugar, stirring and kneading with your hand.
+Then pour everything in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of the
+other white of egg, then the other half of the sugar and finally the
+other half of the white.</p>
+
+<p>In this way an homogenous mixture will be obtained of the right
+firmness. Shake into a kind<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal,
+one third of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with moistened
+fingers and make little balls as large as a walnut. Flatten them to the
+thickness of a third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said above,
+but dust with powdered sugar before putting in a hot oven.</p>
+
+<p>With this dose about thirty macarons can be obtained.</p>
+
+<h4>198</h4>
+
+<h4>FARINA CAKES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pasticcini di semolino)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Farina, six and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Pine-seeds, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, a small piece.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Cook the farina in the milk and when it begins to thicken pour the
+pine-seeds, previously chopped fine and pounded with the sugar, then the
+butter and the rest, less the eggs which must be put in last when the
+mixture has completely cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little
+molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, and bake.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>199</h4>
+
+<h4>RICE TART</h4>
+
+<h4>(Torta di riso)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Rice, seven ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, five and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with four bitter ones, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Candied cedar (angelica), one ounce.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Three whole eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Five egg-yolks.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds and grind or pound them with two tablespoonfuls of the
+sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. Cook the rice in the milk
+until it is quite firm, put in all the ingredients except the eggs,
+which are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire mixture in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, harden in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into diamonds.
+When serving dust with powdered sugar.</p>
+
+<h4>200</h4>
+
+<h4>FARINA TART</h4>
+
+<h4>(Torta di semolino)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Farina finely ground, four and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, four and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with three bitter, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, a small piece.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds in warm water and ground or pound very fine with all
+the sugar, to be mixed one tablespoonful at a time.</p>
+
+<p>Cook the farina in the milk and before removing from the fire add the
+butter and the almonds, which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the
+sugar. Then put the pinch of salt and wait until it becomes lukewarm to
+add the eggs that are to be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in
+a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprinkled with bread crumbs and
+of such a size that the tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put
+it in the oven, remove from the mold when cold and serve whole or cut
+into sections.</p>
+
+<h4>201</h4>
+
+<h4>PUDDING OF RICE MEAL</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di farina di riso)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Rice meal, seven ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, four and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of vanilla.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>First dissolve the rice meal in half a pint of the milk when cold, and
+pour it in the rest of the milk when it is boiling. This is done to
+prevent the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked add the sugar,
+the butter and the salt. Remove from the fire and when it is lukewarm
+mix the eggs (beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake the pudding
+like all the others and serve warm.</p>
+
+<h4>202</h4>
+
+<h4>BREAD PUDDING</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di pane)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Soft bread crumb, five ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Taste of lemon peel.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Cut the bread crumb into pieces and soak in cold milk. Then rub though a
+sieve. Melt the butter in a double boiler (in a vessel immersed in
+boiling water) and mix with the eggs until butter and eggs are
+incorporated to each other. Add the bread crumb and the sugar and mix
+well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with butter and sprinkled with
+bread crumb ground fine and bake like other puddings.</p>
+
+<h4>203</h4>
+
+<h4>POTATO PUDDING</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di patate)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 5em;">Potatoes, big and mealy, one and a half lb.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, five and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Butter, one and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Flour, a tablespoonful.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, half a pint.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A pinch of salt.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Boil or steam the potatoes, skin and rub through a sieve. Place them
+back again on the fire with the butter, the flour and the milk, all
+poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, then add the
+sugar, the salt and the cinnamon or lemon peel (just a taste) and mix
+everything together well. Remove from the fire and, when the mixture is
+lukewarm or cold add the eggs, first the yolks, then the whites beaten.</p>
+
+<p>Bake like all other puddings and serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>204</h4>
+
+<h4>LEMON PUDDING</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di limone)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One big lemon.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six eggs.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Cook the lemon in water, for which two hours will be enough. Remove dry
+and rub through a sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because if
+it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water until it has lost
+that unpleasant taste. Add the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> sugar, the almonds skinned and ground
+very fine and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and
+add them to the mixture that will then be put in a mold and baked like
+all other puddings.</p>
+
+<h4>205</h4>
+
+<h4>PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Budino di mandorle tostate)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, three and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lady-finger biscuits, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Three eggs.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First prepare the almonds, that is to say skin them in warm water and
+toast them on the fire over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very
+fine. Boil the sugar and the lady-fingers, broken in little pieces in
+the milk, mixing well. After half an hour of boiling, keeping always
+stirred, rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the toasted and
+ground almonds. When it is cold add the beaten eggs, pour it in a smooth
+mold, whose bottom will be covered with a film of liquified sugar and
+cook in a double boiler, that is to say put the mold well closed in a
+kettle full of boiling water.</p>
+
+<p>When cooked let it cool and place in ice-box before serving.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>206</h4>
+
+<h4>CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER</h4>
+
+<h4>(Croccante a bagno maria)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, five and a half ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Egg-yolks, five.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one pint.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds and chop them in little pieces about as big as a grain
+of wheat. Put on the fire two thirds of the sugar and when it is all
+melted pour the almonds and stir continually with the ladle until they
+have taken the color of cinnamon. Then put them in a tin greased with
+butter and when they are cold, pound them very fine with the remaining
+third of sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and pour the mixture in a mold
+with a hole in the middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the mold
+in a double boiler so that it will be cooked by steam.</p>
+
+<h4>206</h4>
+
+<h4>STUFFED PEACHES</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pesche ripiene)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Six big peaches not very ripe.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four or five lady-finger biscuits.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, three ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Two ounces sweet almonds with three peach kernels.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Candied fruit (angelica) half an ounce.</span><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cut the peaches in two parts, remove the stones and enlarge somewhat the
+cavity where they were with the point of a knife. Mix the peach pulp
+that you extract with the almonds, already skinned, and grind the pulp
+and almonds very fine together with two ounces of the sugar. To this
+mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed and the candied fruits. Cut in very
+small cubes. This will be the stuffing with which you will fill the
+cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These you will place in a row in
+a baking tin, with the stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of sugar
+and bake in oven with a moderate fire.</p>
+
+<h4>207</h4>
+
+<h4>MILK GNOCCHI</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gnocchi di latte)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One quart of milk.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, nine ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Starch in powder, four ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Eight yolks of eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A taste of vanilla.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Mix everything together as you would do for a cream and put on the fire
+in a saucepan, continually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture has
+become hard keep it a few moments more on the fire and then pour it in a
+plate to make it about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds when
+it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the other with symmetry in a
+baking tin or in a fire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>proof glass plate, with some little pieces of
+butter in between and brown them a little in the oven. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<h4>208</h4>
+
+<h4>SABAYON</h4>
+
+<h4>(Zabaione)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Yolks of three eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Marsala or sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A dash of cinnamon.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>First stir with the ladle the yolks and the sugar until they become
+almost white, then add the wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan
+in another one containing hot water and beat until the sugar is melted
+and the egg begins to thicken.</p>
+
+<h4>SYRUPS</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sciroppi)</h4>
+
+<p>The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with ice water are refreshing
+and pleasant beverages, greatly appreciated during the summer months. It
+is well, however, not to drink them until the digestion is completed,
+because they may disturb it, on account of the sugar that they contain.</p>
+
+<h4>209</h4>
+
+<h4>RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sciroppo di ribes)</h4>
+
+<p>Remove the stems from the bunches of gooseberry and place them in an
+earthen vase, to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> kept in a cool place. When it has begun to ferment
+(which may happen after three or four days) sink the surface film and
+stir with a ladle twice a day, continuing this operation until it has
+stopped raising. Then put in a cheese cloth, letting the juice come out
+through pressing with the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through
+a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you obtain a limpid
+liquid. Then put it on the fire and when it begins to boil pour in it
+granulated sugar and citric acid in the following proportions:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Liquid, six pounds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, eight pounds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Citric acid, one ounce.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>That is to say for each <b>three</b> parts of the liquid, add <b>four</b> parts of
+sugar, and <b>one</b> ounce of citric acid for <b>eight</b> pounds of sugar mixed with
+<b>six</b> pounds of liquid.</p>
+
+<p>Stir continually with the ladle so that the sugar does not stick to the
+bottom, taste it to add some more citric acid if you judge it necessary,
+then let it cool and place in bottles to be sealed.</p>
+
+<p>When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a tumbler less than half an
+inch of syrup for a tumblerful of ice water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>210</h4>
+
+<h4>RASPBERRY SYRUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sciroppo di lampone)</h4>
+
+<p>This is prepared like the other explained above but, since this fruit
+contains less gluten than the gooseberry the period of fermentation will
+be briefer. The large quantity of sugar used in these syrups is
+necessary for their conservation and the citric acid is used to correct
+the excessive sweetness.</p>
+
+<h4>211</h4>
+
+<h4>LEMON SYRUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sciroppo di limone)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Three big lemons.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One and a half pound of sugar.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A tumbler of water.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the lemons, removing the internal pulp without squeezing it and
+taking off all seeds.</p>
+
+<p>Put the water on the fire with the skin of one of the lemons cut in a
+thin ribbon like strip with a small knife. When the water is near
+boiling put in the sugar then remove the lemon skin and immerse the pulp
+of the three lemons. Boil until the syrup is condensed and cooked right,
+which is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and the color of
+white wine that it acquires. Preserve in a bottle, and when needed,
+dilute in a tumbler of ice water. A small quantity will make a
+delightful beverage.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>212</h4>
+
+<h4>HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP</h4>
+
+<h4>(Sciroppo di amarena)</h4>
+
+<p>Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be of the sour kind but, as
+said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into
+a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon. The fermentation will happen
+after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from
+time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a pressing
+machine if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a
+time in cheese cloth.&mdash;When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it
+until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the
+fire in the following proportion and with the piece of cinnamon that was
+already immersed in the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen
+pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, or three parts of liquid
+to four of sugar and the citric acid as in the above proportion.</p>
+
+<p>Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid wait until the liquid is
+quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must
+be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the sugar
+in the liquid.</p>
+
+<p>When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and
+bottle when quite cold. Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>213</h4>
+
+<h4>ORGEAT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Orzata)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sweet almonds with 10 or 12 bitter ones, seven ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Water, one and half pounds.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, two pounds.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the almonds and grind them very fine, or better pound them in a
+mortar, moistening from time to time with orange flower water, of which
+you will use about two tablespoonfuls.</p>
+
+<p>When the almonds have been reduced to a paste, dissolve the latter in
+one third of the water and filter the juice through a cheese cloth,
+squeezing hard. Put the paste, back in the grinder or in the mortar,
+grind or pound again, then filter again with another third of the water.
+Repeat the same operation for a third time, then put on the fire the
+liquid so obtained and just before boiling put the sugar, mix, stir and
+boil for about twenty minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a
+cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the thick liquid may be
+diluted in water, half an inch for a whole tumbler of iced water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="PRESERVES" id="PRESERVES"></a>PRESERVES</h2>
+
+<h4>214</h4>
+
+<h4>APRICOT MARMALADE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Conserva di albicocche)</h4>
+
+<p>Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to believe that jam or
+marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones,
+put them on the fire without water and while they boil, stir with a
+ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an
+hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from
+the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire
+with granulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say
+eight pounds of sugar for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with
+the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which
+will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and
+seeing that it flows slowly.</p>
+
+<p>When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases
+well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in
+alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.</p>
+
+<h4>215</h4>
+
+<h4>PRESERVE OF QUINCE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Conserva di cotogne soda)</h4>
+
+<p>The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with the core removed, and
+granulated sugar, in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five
+tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a half quinces for one
+part of sugar.</p>
+
+<p>Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass of water, boil a
+little, then remove from the fire and put aside.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the quinces&mdash;peeled and coreless&mdash;in very thin slices and put them
+on the fire with a glass of water, supposing the quantity to be about
+two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle,
+trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the quinces
+are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of sugar
+already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover
+removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins
+to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.</p>
+
+<p>Let it cool and put in well covered jars.</p>
+
+<h2>ICES</h2>
+
+<h4>(Gelati)</h4>
+
+<p>Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice
+cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European
+capitals it is the Italian <b>gelatiere</b> who prepares the frozen delicacy. A
+few Italian recipes of <b>gelati</b> will then be acceptable, we believe, as a
+conclusion to this little work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>216</h4>
+
+<h4>BISCUIT</h4>
+
+<h4>(Pezzo in gelo)</h4>
+
+<p>Make a cream with:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Water, five ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, two ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">The yolks of four eggs.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A taste of vanilla.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to
+the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about
+five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in a mold and pack in salt
+and ice.</p>
+
+<p>Keep in ice for about three hours.</p>
+
+<p>This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.</p>
+
+<h4>217</h4>
+
+<h4>LEMON ICE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gelato di limone)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, &frac34; lb.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Water, a pint.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Lemons, three (good sized).</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Boil the sugar in the water, with some little pieces of lemon peel, for
+about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold,
+squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the
+degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with salt
+and ice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>218</h4>
+
+<h4>STRAWBERRY ICE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gelato di fragola)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Ripe strawberries, &frac34; lb.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Granulated sugar, &frac34; lb.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Water, one pint.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">A big lemon.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">An orange.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub
+through a sieve the strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the
+orange: add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the
+mixture in the freezer.</p>
+
+<h4>219</h4>
+
+<h4>ORANGE ICE</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gelato di aranci)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Four big oranges.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One lemon.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">One pint of water.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, &frac34; lb.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain the juice.</p>
+
+<p>Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold,
+strain again and put in the freezer.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+
+<h4>220</h4>
+
+<h4>PISTACHE ICE CREAM</h4>
+
+<h4>(Gelato di pistacchi)</h4>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Milk, one quart.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Sugar, six ounces.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">Pistaches, two ounces.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind them very fine with a
+tablespoonful of the sugar, then put in a saucepan with the yolks and
+the sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk and put the mixture
+on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream,
+let it cool and put in the freezer.</p>
+
+<h4>221</h4>
+
+<h4>TUTTI FRUTTI</h4>
+
+<p>To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin
+receptacle that can be closed hermetically.</p>
+
+<p>Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good
+quality, that is to say, strawberries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big
+peach, a good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, skin and
+remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very
+thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.</p>
+
+<p>When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over
+one fifth of its weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> lemon.
+Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.</p>
+
+<p>Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with
+the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it
+for two hours or a little less.</p>
+
+<p>This is not the <b>tutti frutti</b> ice cream as is known in America, but a
+<b>mac&eacute;doine</b> of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the summer
+months.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+<p>NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES</p>
+
+<ul class="none">
+<li>African hen, 143 &emsp; <a href='#Page_103'><b>103</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Almond, cake, 189 &emsp; <a href='#Page_129'><b>129</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;crisp cake, 193 &emsp; <a href='#Page_133'><b>133</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(roasted) pudding, 205 &emsp; <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Anchovy sauce, 14 &emsp; <a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Apricot marmelade, 214 &emsp; <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Artichokes, with butter, 31 &emsp; <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 28 &emsp; <a href='#Page_25'><b>25</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;in mold, 96 &emsp; <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;steamed, 29 &emsp; <a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 30 &emsp; <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 105 &emsp; <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed with meat, 106 &emsp; <a href='#Page_79'><b>79</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sauce, 104 &emsp; <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Asparagus, 114 &emsp; <a href='#Page_85'><b>85</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Balsamella, sauce, 59 &emsp; <a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Bean soup, 7 &emsp; <a href='#Page_9'><b>9</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Birds, 132 &emsp; <a href='#Page_95'><b>95</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Biscuit, 191 &emsp; <a href='#Page_131'><b>131</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Biscuit (ice), 216 &emsp; <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Biscuit, crisp, 183 &emsp; <a href='#Page_124'><b>124</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;soft, 184 &emsp; <a href='#Page_125'><b>125</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;sultan, 185 &emsp; <a href='#Page_126'><b>126</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;wafer, 194 &emsp; <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Blackberry syrup, 212 &emsp; <a href='#Page_149'><b>149</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Bread soup, 3 &emsp; <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Breast of Veal stuffed, 80 &emsp; <a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Brittle (see crisp cake)</li>
+
+<li>Broth, 1 &emsp; <a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Brown stock, 13 &emsp; <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Cabbage, stuffed, 112 &emsp; <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cake, almond, 189 &emsp; <a href='#Page_129'><b>129</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;corn meal, 190 &emsp; <a href='#Page_130'><b>130</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;crisp, 206 &emsp; <a href='#Page_144'><b>144</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Madeleine, 192 &emsp; <a href='#Page_132'><b>132</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Margherita, 186 &emsp; <a href='#Page_127'><b>127</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;portugaise, 196 &emsp; <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;quince, 195 &emsp; <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cakes, farina, 198 &emsp; <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Caper Sauce, 57 &emsp; <a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cappelletti, soup, 2 &emsp; <a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cauliflower, in mold, 95 &emsp; <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with balsamella, 111 &emsp; <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Celery, au jus, 166 &emsp; <a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;dressing 103 &emsp; <a href='#Page_77'><b>77</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 168 &emsp; <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pur&eacute;e, 169 &emsp; <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;sauce for, 167 &emsp; <a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with butter, 165 &emsp; <a href='#Page_115'><b>115</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Chicken alla cacciatora, 35 &emsp; <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;boned and stuffed, 40 &emsp; <a href='#Page_33'><b>33</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;breasts saut&eacute;, 45 &emsp; <a href='#Page_37'><b>37</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 34 &emsp; <a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;saut&eacute;, 142 &emsp; <a href='#Page_102'><b>102</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 139 &emsp; <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffing, 64 &emsp; <a href='#Page_51'><b>51</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with ham, 141 &emsp; <a href='#Page_102'><b>102</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with egg sauce, 44 &emsp; <a href='#Page_37'><b>37</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sausages, 43 &emsp; <a href='#Page_36'><b>36</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sherry, 42 &emsp; <a href='#Page_36'><b>36</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with tomatoes, 41 &emsp; <a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sauce piquante, 140 &emsp; <a href='#Page_101'><b>101</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123 &emsp; <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>-<a href='#Page_91'><b>91</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;croquettes, 125 &emsp; <a href='#Page_91'><b>91</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 124 &emsp; <a href='#Page_91'><b>91</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Corn meal, cake, 190 &emsp; <a href='#Page_130'><b>130</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pie, 37 &emsp; <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sausages, 36 &emsp; <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Crisp cake in double boiler, 206 &emsp; <a href='#Page_144'><b>144</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Croquettes, fried, 67 &emsp; <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Curly tart, 188 &emsp; <a href='#Page_129'><b>129</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Currant, syrup, 209 &emsp; <a href='#Page_146'><b>146</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Cutlets, chopped meat, 74 &emsp; <a href='#Page_58'><b>58</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;veal, 75 &emsp; <a href='#Page_58'><b>58</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 73 &emsp; <a href='#Page_57'><b>57</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 76, 138 &emsp; <a href='#Page_59'><b>59</b></a>-<a href='#Page_99'><b>99</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Dog fish, fried, 126 &emsp; <a href='#Page_92'><b>92</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 127 &emsp; <a href='#Page_92'><b>92</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Duck, tame, 144 &emsp; <a href='#Page_104'><b>104</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;wild, 46 &emsp; <a href='#Page_38'><b>38</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Eels, stewed, 118 &emsp; <a href='#Page_88'><b>88</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with peas, 119 &emsp; <a href='#Page_88'><b>88</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Eggs, scrambled, 181 &emsp; <a href='#Page_123'><b>123</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with ham, 179 &emsp; <a href='#Page_122'><b>122</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with onion sauce, 178 &emsp; <a href='#Page_122'><b>122</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with tomato sauce, 180 &emsp; <a href='#Page_123'><b>123</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Egg-plants, fried, 100 &emsp; <a href='#Page_75'><b>75</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;in the oven, 102 &emsp; <a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 101 &emsp; <a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Farina, cakes, 198 &emsp; <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;tart, 200 &emsp; <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Fish, with bread crumbs, 115 &emsp; <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;cutlets, stewed, 116 &emsp; <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Fry, Roman, 68, 69 &emsp; <a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a>-<a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Gnocchi, 4 &emsp; <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;milk, 207 &emsp; <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Hare, roast, 135 &emsp; <a href='#Page_97'><b>97</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 51 &emsp; <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Ices, biscuits, 216 &emsp; <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;lemon, 217 &emsp; <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;orange, 219 &emsp; <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pistache, 220 &emsp; <a href='#Page_155'><b>155</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;strawberry, 218 &emsp; <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;tutti frutti, 221 &emsp; <a href='#Page_155'><b>155</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Kidney, broiled, 152 &emsp; <a href='#Page_108'><b>108</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 153 &emsp; <a href='#Page_108'><b>108</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;saut&eacute;, 71 &emsp; <a href='#Page_56'><b>56</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;sliced 151 &emsp; <a href='#Page_107'><b>107</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with anchovy, 150 &emsp; <a href='#Page_107'><b>107</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;omelet, 61 &emsp; <a href='#Page_48'><b>48</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Lamb, leg of, 147 &emsp; <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;omelet, 33 &emsp; <a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;shoulder, 79 &emsp; <a href='#Page_61'><b>61</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;roast, 133 &emsp; <a href='#Page_96'><b>96</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with peas, 78 &emsp; <a href='#Page_61'><b>61</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Lemon, ice, 217 &emsp; <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pudding, 204 &emsp; <a href='#Page_142'><b>142</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;syrup, 211 &emsp; <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Lentils, soup, 9 &emsp; <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Liver, loaf, 89 &emsp; <a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20 &emsp; <a href='#Page_20'><b>20</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried with oil, 21 &emsp; <a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;au gratin, 19 &emsp; <a href='#Page_19'><b>19</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;a la Corinna, 18 &emsp; <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with anchovy sauce, 17 &emsp; <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with butter and cheese, 15 &emsp; <a href='#Page_17'><b>17</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with tomato sauce or brown stock, 16 &emsp; <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Macaroons, 197 &emsp; <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Madeleine cake, 192 &emsp; <a href='#Page_132'><b>132</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Mantona tart, 187 &emsp; <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Margherita cake, 186 &emsp; <a href='#Page_127'><b>127</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Marmelade, apricot, 214 &emsp; <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Meat, Genovese, 86 &emsp; <a href='#Page_65'><b>65</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Omelet, 77 &emsp; <a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffing, 65 &emsp; <a href='#Page_52'><b>52</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Milk gnocchi, 207 &emsp; <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Minestrone, 9 &emsp; <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Mushrooms, dried, 99 &emsp; <a href='#Page_74'><b>74</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 97 &emsp; <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 98 &emsp; <a href='#Page_74'><b>74</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Mussels, with egg sauce, 120 &emsp; <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with tomato sauce, 121 &emsp; <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Mutton, cutlets, 84 &emsp; <a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;leg of, 72, 134 &emsp; <a href='#Page_57'><b>57</b></a>-<a href='#Page_96'><b>96</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Omelet, curled, 60 &emsp; <a href='#Page_47'><b>47</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;lamb, 33 &emsp; <a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;veal kidney, 61 &emsp; <a href='#Page_48'><b>48</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Onions, stewed, 160 &emsp; <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 159 &emsp; <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Orange, ice, 219 &emsp; <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Orgeat, syrup, 213 &emsp; <a href='#Page_150'><b>150</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Panata, 3 &emsp; <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Paste for frying, 63 &emsp; <a href='#Page_50'><b>50</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Pavese soup, 10 &emsp; <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Peaches, stuffed, 206 &emsp; <a href='#Page_144'><b>144</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Peas, with corned beef, 109 &emsp; <a href='#Page_82'><b>82</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with ham, 108 &emsp; <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with onion sauce, 117 &emsp; <a href='#Page_80'><b>80</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Pigeon, surprise, 137 &emsp; <a href='#Page_98'><b>98</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;broiled, 148 &emsp; <a href='#Page_106'><b>106</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(See Squabs)</li>
+
+<li>Pistache, ice, 220 &emsp; <a href='#Page_155'><b>155</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Polenta pie, 37 &emsp; <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with sausages, 36, 163 &emsp; <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a>-<a href='#Page_113'><b>113</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Polpettone, 77 &emsp; <a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Pork liver fried, 66 &emsp; <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;roast, 146 &emsp; <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Portuguese cake, 196 &emsp; <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Pot-roast, 130 &emsp; <a href='#Page_94'><b>94</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with garlic, 131 &emsp; <a href='#Page_95'><b>95</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;larded, 136 &emsp; <a href='#Page_98'><b>98</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Potato pudding, 203 &emsp; <a href='#Page_141'><b>141</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Preserve, quince, 215 &emsp; <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Pudding, bread, 202 &emsp; <a href='#Page_141'><b>141</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Genovese, 88 &emsp; <a href='#Page_67'><b>67</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;hazelnuts, 182 &emsp; <a href='#Page_124'><b>124</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;lemon, 204 &emsp; <a href='#Page_142'><b>142</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;potato, 203 &emsp; <a href='#Page_141'><b>141</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;rice meal, 201 &emsp; <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;roasted almonds, 205 &emsp; <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Puff Paste, 62 &emsp; <a href='#Page_48'><b>48</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Quince, cake, 195 &emsp; <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;preserve, 215 &emsp; <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Rabbit, stewed, 52 &emsp; <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Raspberry syrup, 210 &emsp; <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Ravioli, 10 &emsp; <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Rice, cakes, 27 &emsp; <a href='#Page_25'><b>25</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;meal pudding, 201 &emsp; <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pancakes, 70 &emsp; <a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;pudding with giblets, 87 &emsp; <a href='#Page_66'><b>66</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;tart, 199 &emsp; <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with saffron, 26 &emsp; <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Risotto Milanaise, 22 &emsp; <a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with chicken giblets, 23 &emsp; <a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with lobster, 25 &emsp; <a href='#Page_23'><b>23</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with peas, 24 &emsp; <a href='#Page_23'><b>23</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with saffron, 26 &emsp; <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Roast-beef, 128 &emsp; <a href='#Page_93'><b>93</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Rolls, stuffed, 38 &emsp; <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Roman fry, 68, 69 &emsp; <a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a>-<a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Sabayon, 208 &emsp; <a href='#Page_146'><b>146</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Salmi of game, 50 &emsp; <a href='#Page_41'><b>41</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Sauce, anchovy, 13 &emsp; <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;balsamella, 59 &emsp; <a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;brown stock, 12 &emsp; <a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;caper, 57 &emsp; <a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;for broiled fish, 56 &emsp; <a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;green, 53 &emsp; <a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Genovese, 58 &emsp; <a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;tomato, 12 &emsp; <a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;white, 54 &emsp; <a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;yellow, 55 &emsp; <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Sausages with corn meal, 163 &emsp; <a href='#Page_113'><b>113</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with onions, 164 &emsp; <a href='#Page_114'><b>114</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Soup, bean, 7 &emsp; <a href='#Page_9'><b>9</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;bread, 7 &emsp; <a href='#Page_9'><b>9</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;cappelletti, 2 &emsp; <a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;lentils, 8 &emsp; <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Pavese, 11 &emsp; <a href='#Page_12'><b>12</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Queen, 6 &emsp; <a href='#Page_9'><b>9</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stock, 1 &emsp; <a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;vegetables, 5 &emsp; <a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Spaghetti, 11-15 &emsp; <a href='#Page_13'><b>13</b></a>-<a href='#Page_17'><b>17</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(see _Macaroni_)</li>
+
+<li>Spinach, side-dish, 113 &emsp; <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Squabs, ragout, 48 &emsp; <a href='#Page_39'><b>39</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 47 &emsp; <a href='#Page_39'><b>39</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;timbale, 49 &emsp; <a href='#Page_40'><b>40</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(See =Pigeons=)</li>
+
+<li>Squash, fried, 32 &emsp; <a href='#Page_28'><b>28</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 91 &emsp; <a href='#Page_69'><b>69</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Steak in the saucepan, 149 &emsp; <a href='#Page_106'><b>106</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Stewed cutlets, 73 &emsp; <a href='#Page_57'><b>57</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Strawberry, ice, 218 &emsp; <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a></li>
+
+<li>String beans in mold, 94 &emsp; <a href='#Page_71'><b>71</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;saut&eacute;, 92 &emsp; <a href='#Page_70'><b>70</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with egg sauce, 93 &emsp; <a href='#Page_71'><b>71</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Stufato, 170 &emsp; <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;French, 173 &emsp; <a href='#Page_119'><b>119</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Milanaise, 172 &emsp; <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Southern, 171 &emsp; <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Stuffing, chicken, 64 &emsp; <a href='#Page_51'><b>51</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;meat, 65 &emsp; <a href='#Page_52'><b>52</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Sugo di carne, 13 &emsp; <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Sweet-breads, 157 &emsp; <a href='#Page_110'><b>110</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Syrup, hard blackberry, 212 &emsp; <a href='#Page_149'><b>149</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;lemon, 211 &emsp; <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;orgeat, 213 &emsp; <a href='#Page_150'><b>150</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;raspberry, 210 &emsp; <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;red currant, 209 &emsp; <a href='#Page_146'><b>146</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Tart, curly, 188 &emsp; <a href='#Page_129'><b>129</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;farina, 200 &emsp; <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mantona, 187 &emsp; <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;rice, 199 &emsp; <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85 &emsp; <a href='#Page_65'><b>65</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with spices, 158 &emsp; <a href='#Page_111'><b>111</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Tomato sauce, 12 &emsp; <a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stuffed, 110 &emsp; <a href='#Page_82'><b>82</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Tongue, boiled, 154 &emsp; <a href='#Page_108'><b>108</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 156 &emsp; <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with olives, 155 &emsp; <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Tripe with gravy, 82 &emsp; <a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Trout, Alpine, 174 &emsp; <a href='#Page_120'><b>120</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 176 &emsp; <a href='#Page_121'><b>121</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Lombard, 175 &emsp; <a href='#Page_121'><b>121</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with anchovies, 177 &emsp; <a href='#Page_121'><b>121</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Turkey, 145 &emsp; <a href='#Page_104'><b>104</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Tutti frutti, ice, 221 &emsp; <a href='#Page_155'><b>155</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Veal, breast, 80 &emsp; <a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;cutlets, 75 &emsp; <a href='#Page_58'><b>58</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;kidney with anchovy, 150 &emsp; <a href='#Page_107'><b>107</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;liver, 161 &emsp; <a href='#Page_113'><b>113</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;fried, 162 &emsp; <a href='#Page_113'><b>113</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;in gravy, 83 &emsp; <a href='#Page_63'><b>63</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;kidney sliced, 151 &emsp; <a href='#Page_107'><b>107</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Veal, roast, 129 &emsp; <a href='#Page_94'><b>94</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;stewed, 39 &emsp; <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with gravy, 81 &emsp; <a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;with tunny, 90 &emsp; <a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Vegetable chowder, 10 &emsp; <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a></li>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;soup, 7 &emsp; <a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Wafer biscuits, 194 &emsp; <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Whiting with anchovy sauce, 117 &emsp; <a href='#Page_87'><b>87</b></a><br /><br /></li>
+
+<li>Zabaione, 208 &emsp; <a href='#Page_146'><b>146</b></a></li>
+
+<li>Zucchine, 32 &emsp; <a href='#Page_28'><b>28</b></a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<p>Transcriber's Note:</p>
+<p>All grave accents in the original have been changed
+to acute, and an acute accent has been added to
+Recipe No. 169 PUREE OF CELERY.</p>
+<p>Inconsistencies in spelling between the main body and index have been retained, however typographical errors have been corrected in both.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK ***
+
+***** This file should be named 24407-h.htm or 24407-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/4/0/24407/
+
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+
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+
diff --git a/24407.txt b/24407.txt
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/24407.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,5506 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Italian Cook Book
+       The Art of Eating Well
+
+Author: Maria Gentile
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2008 [EBook #24407]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Adrian Mastronardi, Annie McGuire and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+(This file was produced from images generously made
+available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE ITALIAN COOK BOOK
+
+  The Art of Eating Well
+
+  PRACTICAL RECIPES
+  OF THE
+  ITALIAN CUISINE
+
+  PASTRIES
+  SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES
+  AND SYRUPS
+
+  COMPILED BY
+  MRS. MARIA GENTILE
+
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+  NEW YORK
+
+  COPYRIGHT 1919
+  BY
+  ITALIAN BOOK CO.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+One of the beneficial results of the Great War has been the teaching of
+thrift to the American housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons
+of economy, more attention has been bestowed upon the preparing and
+cooking of food that is to be at once palatable, nourishing and
+economical.
+
+In the Italian =cuisine= we find in the highest degree these three
+qualities. That it is palatable, all those who have partaken of food in
+an Italian =trattoria= or at the home of an Italian family can testify,
+that it is healthy the splendid manhood and womanhood of Italy is a
+proof more than sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the thriftiness
+of the Italian race, that it is economical?
+
+It has therefore been thought that a book of PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE
+ITALIAN CUISINE could be offered to the American public with hope of
+success. It is not a pretentious book, and the recipes have been made as
+clear and simple as possible. Some of the dishes described are not
+peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representative of the =Cucina
+Casalinga= of the peninsular Kingdom, which is not the least product
+of a lovable and simple people, among whom the art of living well and
+getting the most out of life at a moderate expense has been attained to
+a very high degree.
+
+
+
+
+1
+
+BROTH OR SOUP STOCK
+
+(Brodo)
+
+To obtain good broth the meat must be put in cold water, and then
+allowed to boil slowly. Add to the meat some pieces of bones and "soup
+greens" as, for instance, celery, carrots and parsley. To give a brown
+color to the broth, some sugar, first browned at the fire, then diluted
+in cold water, may be added.
+
+While it is not considered that the broth has much nutritive power, it
+is excellent to promote the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are
+made on a basis of broth.
+
+A good recipe for substantial broth to be used for invalids is the
+following: Cut some beef in thin slices and place them in a large
+saucepan; add some salt. Pour cold water upon them, so that they are
+entirely covered. Cover the saucepan so that it is hermetically closed
+and place on the cover a receptacle containing water, which must be
+constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire for six hours, then on a strong
+fire for ten minutes. Strain the liquid in cheese cloth.
+
+The soup stock, besides being used for soups, is a necessary ingredient
+in hundreds of Italian dishes.
+
+
+2
+
+SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI"
+
+This Soup is called of "=Cappelletti=" or "little hats" on account of
+the shape of the "=Cappelletti=".
+
+First a thin sheet of paste is made according to the following
+directions:
+
+The best and most tender paste is made simply of eggs, flour and salt,
+water may be substituted for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a
+less rich paste is needed. Allow about a cup of flour to an egg. Put the
+flour on a bread board, make a hollow in the middle and break in the
+egg. Use any extra whites that are on hand. Knead it thoroughly, adding
+more flour if necessary, until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll
+it as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling pin is necessary, but
+any stick, well scrubbed and sand papered, will serve in lieu of the
+long Italian rolling pin.
+
+Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring about three inches in
+diameter. In the middle of each circle place a spoonful of filling that
+must be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat (chicken, pork or veal)
+ground very fine and seasoned with grated cheese, grated lemon peel,
+nutmeg, allspice, salt. The ground meat is to be mixed with an equal
+amount of curds or cottage cheese.
+
+When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, fold the latter over
+and moisten the edge of the paste with the finger dipped in water to
+make it stay securely closed.
+
+These =cappelletti= should be cooked in chicken or beef broth until the
+paste is tender, and served with this broth as a soup.
+
+
+3
+
+BREAD SOUP
+
+(Panata)
+
+This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend for using the stale
+bread that must never again be thrown away. It is composed of bread
+crumbs and grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg (in very small
+quantity) and salt, all mixed together and put in broth previously
+prepared, which must be warm at the moment of the immersion, but not at
+the boiling point. Then place it on a low fire and stir gently. Any
+vegetable left over may be added.
+
+
+4
+
+GNOCCHI
+
+This is an excellent soup, but as it requires boiled or roast breast of
+chicken or turkey it is well to make it only when these ingredients are
+handy.
+
+Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes, the mealy kind being
+preferred. Mash the potatoes and mix them with chicken or turkey breast
+well ground, grated cheese (Parmesan or Swiss), two or more yolks of
+eggs, salt and a small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the compound on the
+bread board with a quantity of flour sufficient to make a paste and roll
+it in little sticks as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in
+little pieces about half an inch long and put them in boiling water.
+Five or six minutes' cooking will be sufficient.
+
+
+5
+
+VEGETABLE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Sante)
+
+Any kind of vegetables may be used for this soup: carrots, celery,
+cabbage, turnips, onions, potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of
+lettuce or greens of any variety.
+
+Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or chop coarsely cabbage
+or greens, and slice or cut in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over
+the fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter substitute, and
+let them fry until they have absorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook
+until the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of stale bread in oil
+and serve them in the soup.
+
+
+6
+
+QUEEN'S SOUP
+
+(Zuppa Regina)
+
+This is made with the white meat of chicken, which is to be ground in a
+meat grinder together with blanched almonds (5 or 6) for one quart of
+chicken stock. To the meat and almond add some bread crumbs, first
+soaked in milk or broth, in the proportion of about one fifth of the
+quantity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be rubbed to a very
+smooth paste and hot broth is to be added to them. If you wish the soup
+to be richer and have a more milky consistency, use the yolk of an egg,
+which should be beaten, and have a few tablespoonfuls of hot broth
+stirred into it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup boil
+after the egg is added or it will curdle.
+
+One slice of stale bread may be cut into cubes, fried in deep fat, and
+the croutons put in the soup. Send it to the table with a dish of grated
+cheese.
+
+
+7
+
+BEAN SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di fagiuoli)
+
+One cup of dried beans, kidney, navy or lima is to be soaked over night.
+Then boil until tender. It is preferable to put the beans to cook in
+cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come to boil, pour off this
+water and add fresh.
+
+Chop fine 1/4 onion, one clove of garlic, one sprig of parsley and one
+piece of celery and put them to fry in 1/4 cup of oil with salt and a
+generous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are a delicate brown add
+to them two cups of the broth from the beans and 1 cup of tomatoes
+(canned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour the mixture into the
+kettle of beans from which some of the water has been drained, if they
+are very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or rubbed through a
+sieve before serving. Croutons or triangles of dry toast make an
+excellent addition.
+
+The bean soup is made without meat or chicken broth, and it belongs
+consequently to that class of soup called by the Italians "=Minestra di
+Magro=" or "lean soup," to be served preferably on Friday and other days
+in which the Roman Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats.
+
+
+8
+
+LENTIL SOUP
+
+(Zuppa di lenticchie)
+
+The lentil soup is prepared in the same way as the bean soup, only
+substituting lentils for beans. A good combination is that of lentils
+and rice. The nutritive qualities of the lentils are not sufficiently
+known in this country, but all books on dietetics speak very highly of
+them.
+
+
+9
+
+VEGETABLE CHOWDER
+
+(Minestrone alla Milanese)
+
+Cut off the rind of 1/2 lb. salt pork and put it into two quarts of
+water to boil. Cut off a small slice of the pork and beat it to a paste
+with two or three sprigs of parsley, a little celery and one kernel of
+garlic. Add this paste to the pork and water. Slice two carrots, cut the
+rib out of the leaves of 1/4 medium sized cabbage. Add the carrots,
+cabbage leaves, other vegetables, seasoning and butter to the soup, and
+let it boil slowly for 2-1/2 hours. The last 1/2 hour add one small
+handful of rice for each person.
+
+When the pork is very soft, remove and slice in little ribbons and put
+it back.
+
+The minestrone is equally good eaten cold.
+
+
+10
+
+RAVIOLI
+
+Put on the bread board about two pounds of flour in a heap; make a
+hollow in the middle and put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks,
+salt and three or four tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. Make a paste
+and knead it well, then let it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered
+with a linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, as thin as a
+ten-cent piece.
+
+Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled chicken meat: add to it an
+equal part of marrow from the bones of beef and pieces of brains, three
+yolks, some crumbs of bread soaked in milk or broth and some grated
+cheese (Parmesan or Swiss). Rub through a sieve and make little balls as
+big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at equal distances (a little
+more than an inch) in a line over the sheet of paste.
+
+Beat a whole egg and pass it over the paste with a brush all around the
+little balls. Cover these with another sheet of paste, press down the
+intervals between each ball, and then separate each section from the
+other with a knife. Moisten the edges of each section with the finger
+dipped in cold water, to make them stick together, and press them down
+with the fingers or the prongs of a fork. Then put to boil in water
+seasoned with salt or, better still, in broth. The ravioli are then to
+be served hot seasoned with cheese and butter or with brown stock or
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+11
+
+PAVESE SOUP
+
+(Zuppa alla Pavese)
+
+Cut as many thin slices of bread as are needed in order that each person
+may have at least two of them. These slices are then to be toasted and
+browned with butter. Poach two eggs for each person, one on each slice
+of bread and place the slices on a large and deep dish (not in a soup
+tureen). Pour hot broth in the plate, taking care not to break the eggs,
+season with Parmesan or Swiss cheese, and serve.
+
+
+
+
+PASTE
+
+SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC.
+
+(Pasta Asciutta)
+
+The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni at the beginning of the
+meal, in place of soup, and they give it the name of =Minestra Asciutta=
+or "dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the paste is served in
+many other forms and with different seasoning. This is by far the most
+popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleased the taste of all the
+peoples of the earth. The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of
+cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been recognized by all diet
+authorities and, as for its palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are
+just as enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as within the
+boundaries of that blessed country. The most popular seasoning for
+spaghetti, are tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. The
+description of these three condiments follows:
+
+
+12
+
+TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Salsa di Pomidoro)
+
+Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, a piece
+of celery as long as your finger, a few bay leaves and just enough
+parsley. Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up seven or
+eight tomatoes and put everything over the fire together. Stir it from
+time to time and when you see the juice condensing into a thin custard
+strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use.
+
+When fresh tomatoes are not available the tomato paste may be used. This
+is a concentrated paste made from tomatoes and spices which is to be
+had, at all Italian grocers', now so numerous in all American cities.
+Thinned with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian recipes.
+Catsup and concentrated tomato soup do not make satisfactory substitutes
+as they are too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes seasoned with
+salt and a bit of bay leaf, can always be used instead of fresh
+tomatoes.
+
+This sauce serves many purposes. It is good on boiled meat; excellent to
+dress macaroni, spaghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned with
+butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned in the same way (see
+Risotto). Mushrooms are a fine addition to it.
+
+When using concentrated paste the following recipes will be found to
+give good results:
+
+Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: form a little bunch of
+parsley and other aromatic greens and put everything to brown in a
+saucepan together with a piece of butter. Add a reasonable portion of
+tomato paste while cooking, stir and keep on a low fire until the sauce
+assumes the necessary consistency.
+
+
+13
+
+BROWN STOCK
+
+(Sugo di Carne)
+
+Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices of beef taken from a
+juicy cut and small pieces of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one
+carrot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small pieces. Add some
+butter and cover the whole with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and
+any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with salt and cloves. Put over
+the fire without stirring. When you smell the onions getting very brown,
+turn the meat and when everything is quite brown add a cup of water,
+renewing the latter three times. Finally add a certain quantity of
+boiling water or, better still, of broth, and let it boil gently five or
+six hours. Strain, cool and skim off the fat which will form a cake on
+top of the liquid.
+
+The meat can be used afterward for meat balls or =Croquettes=. The stock
+may be kept for some days and forms the basis for many dishes.
+
+
+14
+
+ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Salsa d'Acciughe)
+
+This recipe does not call for the filets of anchovies prepared for =hors
+d'oeuvre=, but the less expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to
+be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash them thoroughly in plenty
+of water. Remove head, tail, backbone and skin and they are ready for
+use.
+
+Put five or six anchovies into a colander and dip quickly into boiling
+water to loosen the skins, remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop
+them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a generous quantity of oil
+and some pepper. Do not let them boil, but when they are hot add two
+tablespoons of butter and three or four tablespoons of concentrated
+tomato juice made by cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing through a
+sieve. When this sauce is used to season spaghetti, these must be boiled
+in water that is only slightly salted and care must be taken not to let
+them become too soft. The quantities above mentioned ought to be
+sufficient for about one pound of spaghetti.
+
+
+15
+
+SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE
+
+(Pasta al burro e formaggio)
+
+This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti may be served, and it
+is generally reserved for the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be
+boiled until tender in salted water, taking care to remove them when
+tender, and not cooked until they lose form. They should not be put into
+the water until this is at a boiling point.
+
+Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
+served. Break into pieces two and a half to three inches long if you so
+desire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their skill in turning
+them around the fork and eating them =is not the privilege of
+everybody=. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil twelve
+to fifteen minutes, or until the macaroni is perfectly soft. Stir
+frequently to prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it
+into a colander to drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with a
+generous quantity of butter and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked,
+it can be brought to the table so that the guests can help themselves to
+it.
+
+The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a name designating size, not
+quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with butter and
+cheese.
+
+
+16
+
+MACARONI WITH SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni al sugo)
+
+The most appreciated kind of macaroni are those seasoned with tomato
+sauce or with brown stock (see nos. 12 and 13). The macaroni are boiled
+as above, then drained in a colander, returned to the saucepan and mixed
+with the sauce and grated cheese. For those who like it some butter may
+be added in the mixing.
+
+
+17
+
+MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe)
+
+After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to be put into the hot dish
+in which it is to be served and the anchovy sauce poured over it and
+well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce has gone all through
+it. Some olive oil may be added, but grated cheese is not generally used
+with the anchovy sauce.
+
+
+18
+
+MACARONI A LA CORINNA
+
+(Maccheroni alla Corinna)
+
+Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of salted water to which add a
+small piece of butter. When it begins to boil put in it 3/4 lb.
+macaroni. Let it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a colander.
+Put them again in new boiling water, prepared as above and let them cook
+on a slow fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of a plate with
+macaroni and cover this first layer with grated cheese and with some
+vegetables in macedoine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown with
+butter. Repeat the draining, moisten the macaroni with the water in
+which they have previously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten minutes
+more.
+
+The =Macedoine= of vegetables can be made with a dozen Bruxelles sprouts
+or one cabbage, half a dozen big asparagus cut in little pieces, a
+carrot cut in thin slices, a dozen small onions, some turnips and half a
+dozen mushrooms. The mushrooms and the asparagus can be omitted. Melt
+some butter in a saucepan and when the turnips, the carrots and the
+onions are half cooked, add the cabbage or sprouts. Put in some water
+and some more butter, boil for ten minutes and then add the mushrooms
+and the asparagus, adding salt and pepper, and a little sugar if this is
+desired.
+
+
+19
+
+MACARONI "AU GRATIN"
+
+(Maccheroni al gratin)
+
+Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender and drain them. Butter
+slightly a fireproof casserole and lay on the bottom some grated cheese
+and grated bread. Alternate the layers of cheese with macaroni and on
+the top layer of macaroni put more cheese and bread grated. Over the
+whole pour some melted butter, cover the casserole, (or =pyrex= plate)
+and put it in the oven with a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more,
+until the top appears browned.
+
+
+20
+
+MACARONI NAPOLITAINE
+
+(Maccheroni alla Napoletana)
+
+Grind 1/4 lb. salt pork or bacon and fry it out in a saucepan. While it
+is frying put one small onion through the grinder. As soon as the pork
+begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chopped, a clove (or small
+section) of garlic shredded fine, and a few dried mushrooms which have
+been softened by soaking in warm water. When the vegetables are very
+brown (great care must be taken not to burn the onion, which scorches
+very easily) add 1/2 lb. round steak ground coarsely or cut up in little
+cubes. When the meat is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned
+tomatoes or half a tablespoonful of tomato paste and simmer slowly until
+all has cooked down to a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take 3/4
+hour. The sauce may be bound together with a little flour if it shows a
+tendency to separate.
+
+This sauce is used to dress all kinds of macaroni and spaghetti, also
+for boiled rice (see Risotto). The macaroni or spaghetti should be left
+unbroken when cooked. If they are too long to fit in the kettle immerse
+one end in the boiling salted water and in a very few minutes the ends
+of the spaghetti under the water will become softened so that the rest
+can be pushed down into the kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and
+it will not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it carefully and put in
+a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a handful of grated cheese over it and pour
+on the sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly mixed.
+
+
+21
+
+MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL
+
+(Maccheroni all'olio)
+
+After the macaroni have boiled drain them and put them in a saucepan in
+which some good olive oil has already boiled, with a clove of garlic
+chopped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it doesn't stick to
+the bottom of the saucepan, and when it is well browned on one side,
+turn it to have the other side browned. Serve the macaroni very hot. Add
+no cheese.
+
+
+22
+
+RISOTTO MILANAISE
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese)
+
+Melt a small piece of butter in a saucepan. Brown in the butter a medium
+sized onion, cut in thin slices. When the onion is browned, take it away
+from the saucepan and add little by little the rice, stirring it with a
+wooden spoon. Every time that the rice becomes dry, add some hot broth
+(or hot water) until the rice is completely cooked. Add salt and pepper
+and a little saffron, if you like it.
+
+When the rice is almost cooked, add to it some brown stock. Dress with
+parmesan cheese and some butter. Mix well and serve hot. This dish must
+not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled before eating.
+
+
+23
+
+RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS
+
+(Risotto alla Milanese II)
+
+The broth for this risotto may be made by cooking together the giblets,
+neck and tips of wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it may be
+made from the left-overs of roast fowl.
+
+Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted water. Then let the
+water cook away and begin adding the broth, in such quantity that the
+rice will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chopped onion in the
+oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut up small are a very good addition to this
+"=Soffritto=". Mince the chicken giblets and add to the onion. Stir the
+mixture into the rice. Add grated cheese and a beaten egg just as the
+rice is taken from the fire.
+
+
+24
+
+(Risotto con piselli)
+
+Wash and dry 1-1/2 lb. rice; chop fine one medium sized onion and put it
+on the fire with a small quantity of butter.
+
+When the onion is well browned, add the rice little by little, stirring
+with a wooden spoon. Add some boiling water one cup at a time. Drain the
+peas previously prepared (fresh or canned peas may be used) and add them
+toward the end of the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, add some
+salt and take it away from the water almost dry. Add some butter, stir
+and serve hot.
+
+
+25
+
+RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER
+
+(Risotto coi gamberi)
+
+For this risotto either lobster or crab meat can be used: the former is,
+however, considered more tasty. The lobster or crab meat ought to be
+about half the weight of the rice employed. A little more than a pound
+of rice and half this weight of crab meat ought to be enough for six
+persons.
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, one carrot, half an
+onion a clove of garlic and brown the whole in good olive oil. When
+browned, add the crab meat and season with salt and pepper. During the
+cooking process stir and turn over the crabs, and when they have become
+red, pour over as much hot water as is necessary to cook the rice.
+
+After the water boils for a while, remove the lobster (or crab, or
+craw-fish) leaving the saucepan on the fire. Put half of the crabs
+aside, and grind the rest. Rub the ground meat through the sieve and put
+it back on the fire. In another saucepan melt some butter and put into
+it little by little the rice that has been washed and dried. Stir and
+add the broth from the first saucepan. When the rice is almost cooked
+add the craw-fish that you have put aside, or rather its meat extracted
+from the shells, take from the fire and pour over it the fish mixture,
+adding some grated cheese.
+
+
+26
+
+RICE WITH SAFFRON
+
+(Riso alla Milanese con Zafferano)
+
+Wash and dry the rice and put it in boiling broth (beef or chicken
+broth). When the rice is half cooked add half its weight of marrow of
+beef bone, cut into small pieces. A few minutes are sufficient for the
+cooking of the marrow. Add grated cheese and remove the kettle from the
+fire.
+
+Dissolve some saffron in one or two tablespoonfuls of broth; sift it
+through a sieve and mix with rice, which is to be served very hot, and
+makes an excellent soup.
+
+
+27
+
+RICE CAKES
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook the rice in milk, adding a small quantity of butter, some salt,
+half a teaspoon of sugar and just a taste of lemon peel. Let the rice
+cool down after being thoroughly cooked, then add three yolks of eggs
+(for 1/4 lb. of rice) and some flour. Mix well and let the whole rest
+for several hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the eggs to a
+froth, add to the rice mixing slowly, and put into the saucepan with a
+ladle.
+
+
+28
+
+FRIED ARTICHOKE
+
+(Carciofi fritti)
+
+Take two artichokes, cut out the hard part of the leaves and of the
+stalk, cut them in two. Then cut these halves into section or slices so
+as to have eight or ten for each artichoke, according to size. As you
+cut them, throw them into cold water and when they are well washed, dry
+them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once into the flour so that
+the latter remains attached to it. Beat the white of an egg, but not to
+a froth, then mix the yolk with the white and salt the whole. Shake out
+the artichokes to take away the superfluous flour and then put them in
+the egg, leaving them for a while so that the egg may be attached to
+them.
+
+Throw the pieces one by one into the pan where there is boiling fat,
+butter or olive oil, and when they are well browned, take them away and
+serve with lemon. If it is desired that the artichokes remain white, it
+is better to fry them in oil and to squeeze half lemon into the water
+where the artichokes are put to soften.
+
+
+29
+
+STEAMED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi a vapore)
+
+Artichokes have been only recently imported to the United States,
+principally by Italian farmers, and they are just beginning to find
+their way into the American kitchen. The artichokes may be eaten raw or
+cooked. It is a healthy and palatable vegetable, easily digested when
+cooked. It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It may be
+prepared in a thousand ways, and here follow some of the simplest and
+most tasteful.
+
+To prepare the steamed artichokes they must first be cleaned and the
+stalk cut to less than half an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on
+their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch or more of water. In
+an opening made in the middle put salt and pepper, and pour inside as
+much good olive oil as they may contain. Cover well the saucepan and put
+it on the fire. The artichokes, that are already seasoned, will be
+cooked by the steam.
+
+
+30
+
+STEWED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi in stufato)
+
+Wash the artichokes and cut the hard part of the leaves (the top). Widen
+the leaves and insert a hash composed of bread crumbs, parsley, salt,
+pepper and oil. Place the artichokes in the saucepan standing on their
+stalk, one touching the other. Cover them with water and let them cook
+for two hours or more. When the leaves are easily detached they are
+cooked.
+
+
+31
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER
+
+(Carciofi al burro)
+
+Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of as many artichokes as are
+needed. Cut them in two or four and boil them in salt water. When
+tender, drain them, have them slightly browned in melted butter and
+season with salt and pepper.
+
+When served in a vegetable dish or placed in a pyramid on a round plate,
+sprinkle with grated cheese.
+
+
+32
+
+FRIED SQUASH
+
+(Zucchine fritte)
+
+The squashes used by Italians for frying and other purposes are very
+small, and for this reason they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes.
+They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian vegetable dealers that
+are now to be found in large number in most American cities and,
+invariably, in Italian neighborhoods during the summer season. The
+"Zucchine" are an extremely tasty vegetable and they are especially good
+when fried.
+
+Select the squashes that are long and thin: wash them cut them in little
+strips less than half an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the
+interior and salt moderately. Leave them aside for an hour or two, then
+drain them but don't dry them. Put them in flour and rub gently in a
+sieve to take away the superfluous flour: immediately after put them in
+a saucepan where there is already oil, fat or butter boiling. At the
+beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking, and only when they have
+become a little hardened stir them and remove when they begin to be
+browned.
+
+
+33
+
+LAMB OMELET
+
+(Agnello in frittata)
+
+Cut in little pieces a loin of lamb, which is the part that lends itself
+best for this dish, and fry in lard: a little quantity of lard is
+sufficient, because the meat of the loins is rather fat. When half
+cooked season with salt and pepper and when fully cooked pour over four
+or five whole eggs slightly beaten also seasoned moderately with salt
+and pepper. Mix, taking care that the eggs do not harden.
+
+
+34
+
+FRIED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo fritto)
+
+Wash a spring chicken and keep in boiling water for one minute. Cut into
+pieces at the joints, roll them in flour, season with salt and pepper
+and dip in two whole beaten eggs. After leaving the pieces of chicken
+for half an hour, roll them in bread crumbs, repeating the operation
+twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with boiling oil or fat, seeing
+that the pieces of chicken are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire
+low. Serve hot with lemon.
+
+
+35
+
+CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA
+
+(Pollo alla cacciatora)
+
+Chop one large onion and keep it for more than half an hour in cold
+water, then dry it and brown it aside. Cut up a chicken, sprinkle the
+pieces with flour, salt and pepper and saute, in the fat which remains
+in the frying pan. When the chicken is brown add one pint fresh or
+canned tomatoes and half a dozen sweet green peppers and put back the
+onion. When the gravy is thick enough add hot water to prevent the
+burning of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and simmer until the
+chicken is very tender. This is an excellent way to cook tough chickens.
+Fowls which have been boiled may be cooked in this way, but of course
+young and tender chickens will have the finer flavor.
+
+
+36
+
+CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta con salsicce)
+
+Cook in water one cup of yellow cornmeal making a stiff mush. Salt it
+well and when it is cooked spread out to cool on a bread board about
+half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small squares.
+
+Put in a saucepan several whole sausages with a little water, and when
+they are cooked skin and crush them and add some brown stock or tomato
+sauce.
+
+Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fireproof receptacle, season
+with grated cheese, the crushed sausages and a piece of butter. Put it
+in the oven and serve when hot.
+
+
+37
+
+POLENTA PIE
+
+(Polenta Pasticciata)
+
+Make a very stiff mush of cornmeal cooked in milk. Salt it well and
+spread out on the bread board in a sheet about one inch thick. When
+cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place these in a buttered
+baking dish. Prepare the =Bolognese sauce= according to the following
+recipe: Chop 1/4 lb. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon, one small
+carrot 1/4 onion, one large piece celery. Put the meat and vegetables
+over the fire with a piece of butter. When the meat has browned add half
+a tablespoon of flour and wet the mixture with hot water or broth,
+allowing it to simmer from half an hour to an hour. It is done when it
+is the consistency of a thick gravy.
+
+Make a smooth white sauce with milk cornstarch and butter. Over a layer
+of the polenta, cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprinkle
+some grated cheese and a few tablespoons each of the white sauce and the
+meat sauce. Repeat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is nicely
+browned. This dish seems very elaborate, but it is very delicious and a
+meal in itself.
+
+The Bolognese sauce is also used to season macaroni or spaghetti in lieu
+of the tomato sauce or the brown stock.
+
+
+38
+
+STUFFED ROLLS
+
+(Pagnottelle ripiene)
+
+Take some rolls, and by means of a round opening on the top, as large as
+a half dollar piece or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the
+crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and outside with hot milk,
+and when they are fairly soaked, dip in beaten eggs and fry them in lard
+or oil. When beginning to brown, fill them with meat that has been
+previously chopped and cooked. This chopped meat ought to be made with
+breast of chicken, chicken giblets, liver etc., brown stock and some
+flour to hold it together.
+
+
+39
+
+STEWED VEAL
+
+(Stracotto di vitella)
+
+The stock from this dish may very well be used to season macaroni or
+boiled rice. Care must be taken, however, not to draw away all the
+juice of the meat in order to have a sauce too rich at the expense of
+the principal dish.
+
+Place in a saucepan one pound of veal or more, bone included, a piece of
+butter or some olive oil (or the two together) half a medium sized
+onion, one small carrot, two celery stalks cut in small pieces. Season
+with salt and pepper. Put it on a low fire, turn the meat over often and
+when browned add a pinch of flour and some tomato paste, bringing it to
+full cooking with water poured little by little. The flour is used to
+keep the sauce together and give it color, but care must be taken not to
+burn it, because in that case the sauce would have an unpleasant taste
+and a black, instead of a reddish color. The addition of dried
+mushrooms, previously softened in the water and slightly boiled in the
+sauce will add greatly to its taste.
+
+As has been said the sauce can well be used to season spaghetti or
+risotto. The stewed veal can be served with some vegetable.
+
+
+40
+
+CHICKEN BONED AND STUFFED
+
+(Pollo dissossato ripieno)
+
+To remove the bones from a chicken the following instructions will be
+found useful.
+
+Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head and legs, and remove the
+tendons. When a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning
+is not difficult, but it requires practice. The skin must not be broken.
+Use a small pointed knife cut the skin down the full length of the back;
+then, beginning at the neck, carefully scrape the meat away from the
+bone, keeping the knife close to the bone. When the joints of the wings
+and legs are met, break them back and proceed to free the meat from the
+carcass. When one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the
+other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care
+must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the meat is
+free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs and wings, turning
+the meat down or inside out, as the bones are exposed, and using care
+not to break the skin at the joints. The end bones of the wing cannot be
+removed, and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.
+
+Now that the fowl is boned make the following stuffing, regulating the
+quantity on the size of the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean
+veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may make a paste. Add a large
+piece of bread crumb soaked in broth, a tablespoon of grated cheese,
+three yolks of egg, salt, pepper and, if desired, just a taste of
+nutmeg. Finally mix also one or two slices of ham and tongue, cut in
+small pieces. Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up the
+opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to cook in water on a low
+fire. When taken from the water, remove the wrapping and brown it, first
+with butter, then in a sauce made in the following way: Break all the
+bones that have been extracted from the chicken, the head and neck
+included, and put them on the fire with dried meat cut in little pieces,
+butter, onion, celery and carrot, seasoned with salt and pepper. Make
+the sauce with the water in which the chicken has been boiled, which has
+naturally become a good chicken broth.
+
+Before sending to the table, remove the thread with which the chicken
+has been sewed.
+
+
+41
+
+CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES
+
+(Pollo alla contadina)
+
+Take a young chicken and make some little holes in the skin in which you
+will put some sprigs of rosemary and a clove of garlic cut into five or
+six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped lard and season with salt
+and pepper inside and outside. When it is well browned on all parts add
+tomatoes cut in pieces, taking care to remove previously all the seeds.
+Moisten with broth or water. Brown some potatoes in oil, fat or butter,
+previously cutting them into sections. When browned dip in the sauce of
+the chicken and serve the whole together.
+
+
+42
+
+CHICKEN WITH SHERRY
+
+(Pollo al marsala)
+
+Cut the chicken in big pieces and put it in the saucepan with one medium
+sized onion chopped fine and a piece of butter. Season with salt and
+pepper and, when it is well browned, add some broth and complete the
+cooking. Remove the excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through a
+sieve or otherwise, and put the chicken back on the fire with a glass of
+Sherry or Marsala wine, removing it from the fire as soon as the sauce
+begins to boil.
+
+
+43
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Pollo colle salsicce)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter
+and four or five slices of ham, half an inch wide. Over these
+ingredients place a whole chicken, season with pepper and a little salt
+and place on the fire. Brown it on all sides and, when the onion is all
+melted, add water or broth and three or four sausages freshly made. Let
+it cook on a low fire, seeing that the sauce remains liquid and does not
+dry up.
+
+
+44
+
+CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Pollo in salsa d'uova)
+
+Break into pieces a young chicken and put it in the saucepan with a
+piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper. When it is half browned
+sprinkle with a pinch of flour to give it color, then complete the
+cooking with broth. Remove it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat
+the yolk of one egg with the piece of half a lemon and pour it on the
+sauce of the chicken, allowing it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour
+on the chicken and serve hot.
+
+
+45
+
+CHICKEN BREASTS SAUTES
+
+(Petti di pollo alla saute)
+
+Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, give them the best
+possible shape and make a whole piece from the little pieces that will
+remain, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and mixing these. Season
+with salt and pepper and dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for
+a few hours. Sprinkle with bread crumbs ground fine and saute in butter.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+If you want this dish more elaborate prepare a sauce in the following
+way: Put some good olive oil in a frying pan, just enough to cover the
+bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of dry mushrooms. Sprinkle over
+a small quantity of grated cheese and some bread crumbs. Repeat the same
+operation three or four times, according to the quantity, and finally
+season with olive oil, salt and pepper and small pieces of butter. Put
+the pan over the fire and when it has begun to boil pour a small cup of
+brown stock or broth and a little lemon juice. Remove the same from the
+fire and pour it on the chicken breast that have been browned as
+described above.
+
+
+46
+
+WILD DUCK
+
+(Anitra selvatica)
+
+Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and cut off the head and
+legs. Chop fine a thick slice of ham with both lean and fat together,
+with a moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and half medium sized
+onion. Put the chopped ham and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck
+on the whole, seasoning with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides and add
+water to complete the cooking.
+
+Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and afterward allowed to complete
+the cooking in the sauce obtained from the duck, form a good addition.
+
+To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild duck, either wash it in
+vinegar before cooking or scald it in boiling water.
+
+
+47
+
+STEWED SQUABS
+
+(Piccioni in umido)
+
+Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves and place them in a saucepan
+over a bed of small slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season
+with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire and when they begin
+to be browned, add a piece of butter and complete the cooking by pouring
+in some good broth. Before removing from the fire squeeze one lemon over
+them and garnish with squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care
+not to add too much salt on account of the ham and the broth both
+containing salt.
+
+=Note=--Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, are made with broth.
+When meat broth is not available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes
+or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, however, always preferable to
+use broth made with fresh meat.
+
+
+48
+
+RAGOUT OF SQUABS
+
+(Manicaretto di piccione)
+
+Cut two or more squabs at the joints, preferably in four parts each, and
+put them on the fire with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a bunch
+of parsley. When they begin to dry, add some broth and--before they are
+completely cooked--their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut in slices.
+Continue pouring in broth and allow the whole to simmer on a low fire.
+Add another piece of butter over which some flour has been sprinkled, or
+flour alone. Before serving, remove the ham and the bunch of greens and
+squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs.
+
+Some sweetbread may be added with good effect, but it must be first
+scalded and the skin removed.
+
+
+49
+
+SQUAB TIMBALE
+
+(Timballo di piccioni)
+
+Chop together some ham, onion, celery and carrot, add a piece of butter
+and place on the fire with one or two squabs, according to the number of
+guests. Add the giblets from the squabs and some more of chicken, if at
+hand. Season with salt and pepper, and when the pigeons are browned,
+pour over some broth to complete the cooking, taking care, however, that
+the sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the latter and place in it
+some macaroni that has been half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni
+in the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a well reduced Bechamel
+sauce, then cut the squabs at the joints, removing the neck, the legs
+and the bones of the back, when you would not bone them entirely, which
+would be better. Cut the giblets in small pieces and remove the soft
+part of the onion.
+
+When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, season them with grated
+cheese, pieces of butter, diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg
+and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Add
+finally the Bechamel sauce and mix the whole.
+
+Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and line it with soft pastry.
+Put everything in the mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry
+and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and serve hot. Three quarters
+of a pound of macaroni and two pigeons are enough for ten persons.
+
+
+50
+
+SALMI OF GAME
+
+(Uccelli in salmi)
+
+Roast the game completely, seasoning with salt and pepper. If the game
+be small birds, leave them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Remove
+all the heads and grind them together with some pieces of birds, or some
+whole little birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter one
+half pound of bacon or ham cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one
+tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, one tablespoonful each
+of salt, thyme and sage. Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour
+then rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted game. Make it
+boil until the cooking is completed and serve with toasted diamonds of
+bread.
+
+
+51
+
+STEWED HARE
+
+(Stufato di lepre)
+
+Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting it in pieces, chop
+fine one medium sized onion, one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and
+several leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some pieces of butter,
+two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and four or five strips of bacon or salt
+pork, when the whole has been browning for four or five minutes, put the
+pieces of hare inside the saucepan and season them with salt, pepper and
+spices. When it is browned, put a wineglass of white wine, some fresh
+mushrooms, or dry mushrooms previously softened in water. Complete the
+cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if necessary, add another piece
+of butter.
+
+
+52
+
+STEWED RABBIT
+
+(Coniglio in umido)
+
+After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large pieces and put it on
+the fire to drive away the water that is to be drained. When quite dry,
+put in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and a hash
+composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, a small piece of corned beef
+and some onion, celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
+Stir often and when it is browned add some tomato sauce and another
+piece of butter.
+
+
+53
+
+GREEN SAUCE
+
+(Salsa verde)
+
+Chop all together some capers that have been in vinegar, one anchovy, a
+small slice of onion and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting
+hash with the blade of a knife to make it very fine. Add a sprig of
+parsley, chopped together with some leaves of basil and dissolve the
+whole in very good olive oil and lemon juice.
+
+This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken or cold boiled fish or
+hard boiled eggs.
+
+Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if these are not at hand.
+
+
+54
+
+WHITE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa bianca)
+
+This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus or with cauliflower. The
+ingredients are 1/4 lb. of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a
+tablespoonful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, broth or water
+in sufficient quantity.
+
+Put first on the fire the flour with half the butter and when it begins
+to be browned pour over it the broth or the water little by little,
+stirring with the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the butter and the
+vinegar without making the water boil too much. When taken off the fire
+add the yolk of the egg, stir and serve.
+
+
+55
+
+YELLOW SAUCE
+
+(Salsa gialla)
+
+This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, and the quantities
+indicated below are sufficient for a piece of fish or a whole fish
+weighing about a pound.
+
+Put on the fire in a little saucepan one teaspoonful of flour and two
+ounces of butter, and when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it
+little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that is to say of the
+water in which the fish has been boiled. When you see that the flour
+does not rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce from the flour
+and pour over two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the yolk of an egg,
+stirring and mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce half a lemon
+and season generously with salt and pepper. Let it cool and then pour
+over the fish that is to be served with a sprig of parsley.
+
+This sauce must have the appearance of a cream and must not be too
+liquid, in order that it may remain attached to the fish.
+
+
+56
+
+SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
+
+(Salsa per pesce in gratella)
+
+This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted anchovies, olive oil and
+lemon juice. Boil the eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every
+hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. Bone the anchovies and
+rub them on the sieve together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and
+dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it like a cream. Cover
+with this sauce the broiled fish before sending to the table, or serve
+aside in a gravy boat.
+
+
+57
+
+CAPER SAUCE
+
+(Salsa con capperi)
+
+This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish and the quantities are
+for a little more than one pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces
+of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar one teaspoonful of
+flour, salt, pepper and vinegar.
+
+Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its broth, prepare the sauce.
+Put on the fire the flour with half of the butter, mix it and when it
+begins to take color, add the remaining butter.
+
+Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of the broth of the fish:
+season generously with salt and pepper and take the saucepan from the
+fire. Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chopped, and some
+drops of vinegar, but taste it to dose the sauce so that it is pleasant
+to the taste and as thick as liquid cream.
+
+It is well to observe here that these sauces in which butter is used
+together with acids, such as vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and
+should be partaken of sparingly.
+
+
+58
+
+GENOVESE SAUCE
+
+(Salsa genovese)
+
+Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of garlic. Then mix with
+some capers soaked in vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three
+pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, soaked in vinegar.
+Grind all these ingredients, rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive
+oil, dosing right by tasting.
+
+
+59
+
+BALSAMELLA SAUCE
+
+(Salsa balsamella)
+
+This sauce resembles the famous French Bechamel Sauce, but it is simpler
+in its composition.
+
+Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour and a piece of butter as
+big as an egg. Stir the flour and the butter together while keeping them
+over the fire. When the flour begins to be browned, pour over a pint of
+milk, continually stirring with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid
+condensed like a cream. This is the =Balsamella=. If it is too thick add
+some milk, if too liquid put back on the fire with another piece of
+butter dipped in flour.
+
+A good =Balsamella= and some well prepared brown stock are the base and
+the principal secret of many savory dishes.
+
+
+60
+
+CURLED OMELET
+
+(Frittata in riccioli)
+
+Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat two eggs,
+season with salt and pepper and mix with them enough spinach to make the
+eggs appear green. Put the frying pan on the fire with only enough oil
+to grease it and when very hot put in a portion of the eggs, moving the
+frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. When well cooked, remove it
+from the frying pan and repeat the operation once or twice in order to
+have two or three very thin omelets. Put these one over the other and
+cut them in small strips that are to be browned in butter adding a
+little grated cheese. These strips of omelet, resembling noodles, form a
+tasty and attractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or a similar
+dish.
+
+
+61
+
+VEAL KIDNEY OMELET
+
+(Frittata di rognone di vitella)
+
+Take a veal kidney, open it lengthwise and leave all its fat. Season
+with oil, salt and pepper, broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough
+eggs in proportion to the size of the kidney, season them with salt and
+pepper, both in moderate quantity and mix with them a sprig of parsley
+and some grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney in the eggs, mix all
+together and make an omelet with some butter.
+
+
+62
+
+PUFF PASTE
+
+(Pasta sfoglia)
+
+The =Pasta sfoglia= is not too difficult to make and if the following
+instructions are carefully followed, this fine and light paste can
+easily be prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll it on but
+this is not absolutely necessary. A warm, damp day is not favorable for
+the making of the =Pasta sfoglia=, which succeeds better when the
+weather is cold and dry.
+
+Mix half a pound of flour of the very best quality with a piece of
+butter as big as a walnut, some warm, but not hot water, enough salt and
+a teaspoonful of good brandy. When the paste is formed knead it well for
+about half an hour, first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly
+with force against the bread board. Make a cake of a rectangular form,
+wrap it in cloth and let it rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the
+hand 1/2 lb. of butter that has been kept previously on ice or, better,
+in a bowl of ice-water, until it becomes smooth and flexible, then make
+of it a little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a bowl of
+cold water. When the dough has rested take the butter from the water,
+wipe it with a cloth and dip it in flour.
+
+Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary to enclose within the
+cake of butter. This is placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet
+of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fingers moistened in a
+little water so that no air remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first
+with the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the sheet as thin as
+possible, but taking care that the butter does not come out. If this
+happens throw at once a little flour where the butter appears and always
+have the marble slab (or bread board) and the rolling pin sprinkled with
+flour. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste, and again roll
+the folded strip, repeating the operation six times and letting the
+paste rest from time to time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold
+it in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness that is, about one
+third of an inch. After each folding press the edges gently with the
+rolling pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to roll in a
+different direction.
+
+When the paste has had six turns cut it into the desired forms and put
+on ice, or in a cold place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting
+it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the
+bottom.
+
+The puff paste is used for pate shells and vol-au-vent cake and for
+light pastries of all kinds.
+
+
+63
+
+PASTE FOR FRYING
+
+(Pastella per fritto)
+
+Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with two teaspoonfuls of oil. Add two
+eggs, a pinch of salt, and mix well. This mixture will take on the
+aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze fried brains, sweetbreads
+and the like. All these things are first to be scalded in boiling salt
+water. Add a pinch of salt and one of pepper when taking from the water.
+The brains, sweetbreads etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces,
+thrown into the paste, or cream, described above and fried in oil or
+good lard.
+
+In frying these are often united to liver or veal cutlets. The liver
+must be cut in very thin slices and the cutlets beaten with the side of
+a big knife and given a good shape. Season with salt and pepper, dip in
+beaten egg and after a few hours sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry.
+Serve with lemon.
+
+
+64
+
+CHICKEN STUFFING
+
+(Ripieno di pollo)
+
+The ingredients are 1/4 lb. lean veal or pork or breast of turkey and
+chicken giblets. Cook this meat together with a little hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot and butter. Season with salt pepper and spices,
+moistening it with broth. Take dry from the fire, take off the soft
+parts of the giblets, add a few dry mushrooms softened in water, a
+little slice of lean fat ham and chop everything fine. Into the sauce
+that has remained from the cooking throw enough breadcrumbs to make a
+tablespoonful of hard soaked bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a
+pinch of grated cheese and two eggs and fill the chicken with all this,
+sewing up the opening afterwards. The chicken can be boiled or stewed.
+If boiled you will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention when
+cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing in one piece in order to
+slice it.
+
+
+65
+
+MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT
+
+(Ripieno di carne per pasticcini di pasta sfoglia)
+
+This stuffing can be made either with stewed veal or chicken giblets or
+sweetbreads. The latter are preferable, being more delicate and a taste
+of truffles greatly improves the stuffing. If sweetbreads are used, put
+them on the fire with a piece of butter and season with salt and pepper.
+When they have begun to take color, complete the cooking with some brown
+stock, then cut them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or two
+spoons of =Balsamella= (see No. 54) a little tongue, one or two slices
+of ham cut in little squares, a pinch of grated cheese and a taste of
+nutmeg, seeing that the ingredients are in such quantities as to make
+the mixture tasty and delicate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it
+hardens and can be worked better.
+
+In order to enclose it in pate shells made with puff-paste (see No. 57)
+there are two ways. One is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing,
+the other to fill them after they are cooked. In the first case put the
+stuffing in the prepared disk of paste, moisten the edge with a wet
+finger, cover with another disk of paste and cook. In the second case,
+which is more convenient because the shells can be prepared one day
+before, the two disks are put together without the stuffing, but in the
+upper disk a circular cut must be made as large as a half dollar coin.
+The pate on cooking swells and leaves an empty space in the interior.
+Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle above, which has the
+form of a cover, the interior space can be made larger, filled with the
+stuffing and covered with the little cover. In this way it is enough to
+warm them before sending to the table. The puff-paste must always be
+glazed with the yolk of eggs.
+
+If a large vol-au-vent is to be filled instead of little pate-shells, a
+ragout of chicken giblets and sweetbread, cut in large pieces, is
+better.
+
+
+66
+
+PORK LIVER FRIED
+
+(Fegato di maiale fritto)
+
+Cut in to thin slices some pork liver, sprinkle with flour and fry in
+good lard. It must be served with its sauce. Squeeze in a lemon while it
+is frying.
+
+
+67
+
+FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE
+
+(Fritto composto alla Bolognese)
+
+Take a piece of stewed lean veal, a little brain boiled or stewed, and a
+slice of ham. Chop and grind everything fine. Add a yolk of egg or a
+whole egg, according to the quantity, and a little =Balsamella= (see No.
+54). Put the hash on the fire and stir until the egg is cooked. Add
+finally grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have them, some
+truffles chopped very fine and put in a plate. When quite cold make some
+little balls as large as a walnut and roll them in flour. Then dip in
+beaten egg and bread crumb ground very fine, repeating the operation
+twice, and fry.
+
+
+68
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+(Fritto alla Romana)
+
+I.
+
+Put on the fire a hash of onion and butter and when it is well browned
+cook in it a piece of lean veal seasoned with salt and pepper. When the
+meat begins to brown put in a little sherry wine to complete the
+cooking.
+
+Pound the whole to soften it a little using the sauce remained and if
+this is not enough add some broth and finally the yolk of an egg. See
+that the whole is not softened too much.
+
+Now take some wafers, not too thin and cut them in squares similar to
+those used by druggists. Beat one egg and the white from the other egg,
+then take a wafer, dip it in the egg and place it on a layer of bread
+crumbs ground fine. On the wafer put a little ball of the compound
+above, then dip another wafer in the egg, make it touch the bread crumbs
+only from the part that remains outside, and with this cover the
+compound attaching it to the lower wafer. Sprinkle again with bread
+crumbs if necessary and put the piece aside repeating the operation
+until all the meat is disposed of. Cook in oil or fat and serve with
+lemon.
+
+With half a pound of meat about twenty filled wafers should be obtained.
+
+
+69
+
+ROMAN FRY
+
+II.
+
+This can be made when you happen to have some breast of roast chicken
+left over. Some chicken breast, two or three slices of tongue and ham,
+one tablespoonful of grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, are the
+ingredients used. Remove the skin of the chicken and cut it as well as
+the tongue and the ham, into little cubes. Make a =Balsamella= (see No.
+54) in sufficient quantity and when it is cooked add the above
+ingredients and let it cool well to fry using the wafer as in the
+preceding.
+
+
+70
+
+RICE PANCAKE
+
+(Frittelle di riso)
+
+Cook thoroughly 1/4 lb. of rice in about a pint of water giving it taste
+with a little piece of sugar and a taste of lemon peel. Leave it cool
+and then add three yolks of eggs and a little flour. Mix well and let
+the whole rest for several hours. When you are going to fry beat the
+white of an egg to a froth, add it to the rice and throw into the frying
+pan one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Serve hot sprinkled with confectionery sugar.
+
+
+71
+
+KIDNEY SAUTE
+
+(Rognoni saltati)
+
+Take one large kidney, or two or three small kidneys, open them and
+remove all the fat. Cut lengthwise in thin slices, salt and pour as much
+boiling water as is needed to cover them. When the water is thoroughly
+cooled, drain it and wipe well the slices with a cloth, then put them in
+a frying pan with a small piece of butter. Turn them often and when they
+have cooked for five minutes put in a pinch of flour and season with
+salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until thoroughly cooked and when
+you are going to take them away add another piece of butter, a sprig of
+chopped parsley and a little broth if needed. The kidney must not be
+kept too much on the fire, because in that case it hardens.
+
+
+72
+
+LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola)
+
+Take a shoulder or a leg of mutton and after having boned it, lard it
+with small pieces of bacon dipped in salt and pepper. Salt moderately
+the meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a pan that contains
+a piece of butter and one large onion larded with clover. When it begins
+to brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of broth, or of
+water, a little bunch of greens and some tomatoes cut in pieces. Put
+again on a low fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the
+saucepan closed, but opening from time to time to turn the meat. When it
+is cooked, throw away the onion, rub the sauce through a sieve, remove
+its fat and put it with the meat when served. The mutton must not be
+overdone, for in this case it cannot be sliced.
+
+
+73
+
+STEWED CUTLETS
+
+(Scaloppine alla Livornese)
+
+Take some slices of tender beef, beat them well and put them in a
+saucepan with a piece of butter. When this is all melted, put one or two
+tablespoonfuls of broth to complete the cooking, season with salt and
+pepper, add a pinch of flour and before taking them from the fire put
+in a pinch of chopped parsley.
+
+
+74
+
+CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT
+
+(Scaloppine di carne battuta)
+
+Take some good lean beef, clean it well, removing all little skins and
+tendons, then first chop and after grind the meat fine in the grinder.
+Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese. Mix well and give
+the meat the form of a ball then with bread crumbs over and beneath
+flatten it with the rolling pin on the bread board making a sheet of
+meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut it in square pieces, as large as
+the palm of the hand and cook in a saucepan with butter. When these
+cutlets are browned, pour over some tomato sauce and serve.
+
+If you prefer, use your hands instead of the rolling pin and then you
+can give them the shapes you like.
+
+If you have some left over meat this can perfectly well be mixed with
+the raw meat and chopped and ground together.
+
+
+75
+
+VEAL CUTLETS STEWED
+
+(Scaloppine alla Genovese)
+
+Cut some lean veal meat into slices and, supposing it be a pound or a
+little more, without bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized onion and
+put it in a saucepan with oil and a little piece of butter. Put over the
+cutlets, one layer over the other, season with salt and butter and put
+on the fire. When the meat which is below is browned put in a
+teaspoonful of flour and after a while a hash of parsley with half a
+clove of garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the other, mix
+them, let them drink in the sauce, then pour hot water and a little
+tomato sauce. Make it boil slowly and not much to complete the cooking
+and serve with abundant sauce and with little diamonds of toast.
+
+
+76
+
+STUFFED CUTLET
+
+(Braciuoline ripiene)
+
+Slice from a piece of veal (about one pound) seven or eight cutlets and
+beat them well with a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some tender
+veal meat and one or two slices of ham and add a small quantity of
+marrow bone (of veal) and grated cheese. The marrow and the grated
+cheese must be reduced to a paste with the blade of a knife. One egg is
+then added to tie up the hash and a pinch of pepper, but no salt on
+account of the ham and the cheese that already contain it. Spread the
+cutlets and put the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie them
+with strong thread.
+
+Now prepare a small hash with a little onion, a piece of celery a piece
+of carrot and a small quantity of corned beef and put it in the fire in
+a saucepan with a small piece of butter, at the same time that you put
+the cutlets. Season with salt and pepper and when they begin to brown
+pour some tomato sauce and complete the cooking with water. Before
+serving, remove the thread with which the cutlets have been tied.
+
+
+77
+
+MEAT OMELETTE
+
+(Polpettone)
+
+Take one pound of veal, without bones, clean it well taking away all
+skins and tendons and then chop it together with a slice of ham. Season
+moderately with salt pepper and spices, add one whole egg then with
+moistened hands make a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with flour.
+
+Make a hash with two or three slices of onion (not more) parsley,
+celery, and carrot, put it on the fire with a piece of butter and when
+it is browned throw in the =Polpettone=. Brown well on all sides and
+then pour in the saucepan half a tumbler of water in which half a
+tablespoonful of flour has been previously diluted. Cover and make it
+simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it doesn't burn. When you serve
+with the gravy squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it.
+
+If desired a hard boiled egg can be put shelled in the center of the
+meat ball, so that it gives it a better appearance when sliced.
+
+
+78
+
+LAMB WITH PEAS
+
+(Agnello ai piselli)
+
+Take a piece of lamb from the hind side, lard it with two cloves of
+garlic cut in little strips and with some sprigs of rosemary. Chop fine
+a piece of lard and a slice of corned beef. Put the lamb on the fire
+with this hash and a little oil and let it brown after seasoning with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned add a piece of butter, some tomato
+sauce, or tomato paste dissolved in water or soup stock and complete the
+cooking. Take away the lamb, put the peas in the gravy, and when they
+have simmered a little and are cooked put back the lamb and serve.
+
+
+79
+
+SHOULDER OF LAMB
+
+(Spalla d'agnello)
+
+Cut the meat of a shoulder of lamb in small pieces, or squares. Chop two
+small onions, brown them with a piece of butter and when they are
+browned put the meat and season with salt and pepper. Wait until the
+meat begins to brown and then add another piece of butter dipped in
+flour. Mix the whole and complete the cooking with soup stock or water
+with bouillon cubes poured in little by little.
+
+
+80
+
+BREAST OF VEAL STEWED
+
+(Stufatino di petto di vitella)
+
+Break a piece of breast of veal leaving all its bones.
+
+Make a hash with garlic, parsley, celery and carrot; add oil, pepper and
+salt and put on the fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when it
+begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of flour and a little tomato
+sauce or tomato paste diluted in water. Complete the cooking with broth
+or water. Finally add a piece of butter and pieces of celery cut in big
+pieces which must have been before half cooked in water and browned in
+butter. Care must be taken to keep the saucepan always covered, in this
+as in other stews.
+
+
+81
+
+VEAL WITH GRAVY
+
+(Vitella in guazzetto)
+
+First take about one pound of veal and tie it well. Then cover the
+bottom of the saucepan with some thin slices of corned beef and a piece
+of butter. Over this place half a lemon cut in four thin slices from
+which the skin and the seeds must be removed. Over all this put the veal
+which must be well browned on all sides, but care must be taken not to
+burn it on account of the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove
+the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of hot milk, that has boiled.
+Cover the saucepan and complete the cooking. Before serving rub the
+gravy through a sieve.
+
+
+82
+
+TRIPE WITH GRAVY
+
+Boil some tripe in water and when it is boiled, cut it in strips, one
+quarter of an inch wide and wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a
+saucepan with butter, and when this is melted, add some brown stock or
+good tomato sauce. Season with salt and pepper, cook thoroughly and add
+a pinch of grated cheese before taking from the saucepan.
+
+
+83
+
+VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY
+
+(Fegato di vitella al sugo)
+
+Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown in oil and butter, and
+when it has taken a dark red color, throw in the liver cut in thin
+slices. When half cooked season with salt, pepper and a pinch of
+chopped parsley. Make it simmer on a low fire so that the gravy remains,
+and serve in its gravy, squeezing over some lemon juice when sent to the
+table.
+
+In this and in similar cases, when using scallions or onions, some
+advise putting these in a cloth after being chopped and dip them in cold
+water squeezing them dry after.
+
+
+84
+
+MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL
+
+(Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella)
+
+Put in saucepan a slice of ham, some butter, a little bunch composed of
+carrot, celery and stems of parsley and over this some whole cutlets of
+mutton seasoned with salt and pepper. Make them brown on both sides, add
+another piece of butter, if necessary, and add to the cutlets some
+chicken giblets, sweetbreads and fresh or dry mushrooms (the latter
+softened in water), all cut in pieces. When all this begins to brown,
+pour some soup stock and let it simmer on a low fire. Sprinkle a little
+flour and finally pour a wineglass (or half a tumbler) of white wine
+leaving it boil a little more. When ready to serve remove the ham and
+the greens, rub the gravy through a sieve and remove the superfluous
+fat.
+
+
+85
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA
+
+(Filetto al marsala)
+
+Roll a piece of the tenderloin, tie it and, if it is about two pounds,
+put it on the fire with a middle-sized onion cut in thin slices, some
+thin slices of ham and a piece of butter, seasoning but moderately with
+salt and pepper. When it is browned from all sides and the onion is
+consumed, sprinkle a pinch of flour, let this take color and then pour
+some soup stock or water. Make it simmer on a low fire, then rub the
+gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a small
+tumbler of Marsala or Sherry wine put it back on the fire to simmer
+again. Serve with the gravy neither too liquid nor too thick.
+
+The filet can also be larded with bacon and cooked in butter and Marsala
+only.
+
+
+86
+
+MEAT GENOVESE
+
+(Carne alla Genovese)
+
+Take thick slices of good lean veal, weighing about a pound, beat it and
+flatten it well. Beat three or four eggs, season them with salt and
+pepper, a pinch of grated cheese and some chopped parsley. Fry the eggs
+in butter in the form of an omelet about the size of the meat over
+which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps and putting the
+pieces where it lacks so as to cover the meat entirely. After that roll
+tight the meat together with the omelet and tie it with thread. Then
+sprinkle some flour over it and put it in a saucepan with a piece of
+butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. When it is well browned on all
+sides, pour some soup stock to complete the cooking and serve it in its
+gravy which will be thick enough on account of the flour.
+
+
+87
+
+RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS
+
+(Sfornato di riso con rigoglie)
+
+Make a good brown stock (see No. 13) and use the same for the rice as
+well as for the giblets. To these add some thin slices of ham and brown
+them first in butter, seasoned moderately with salt and pepper,
+completing the cooking with brown stock. A taste of mushrooms will be
+found useful.
+
+Brown the rice equally in butter, then complete the cooking with hot
+water. Drain and put the brown stock, adding grated cheese and two
+beaten eggs, when the rice has cooled a little.
+
+Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it evenly with butter, cover
+the bottom with buttered paper and place in it the rice to harden it in
+the oven. When taken from the mold pour over the gravy from the
+giblets, slightly thickened with a pinch of flour and serve with the
+giblets around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for them.
+
+
+88
+
+PUDDING GENOESE
+
+(Budino alla genovese)
+
+Chop together a slice of veal, some chicken breast and two slices of ham
+and then grind or better pound them, with a small piece of butter, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and a crumb of bread soaked with milk.
+Rub through a sieve and add three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella= (see
+No. 54) which you will make thick enough for this dish, three eggs and
+just a taste of nutmeg, mixing everything well.
+
+Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with butter and put on the bottom a
+sheet of paper, cut according to the shape of the bottom and equally
+greased with butter. Pour over the above ingredients and cook in a
+vessel immersed in boiling water (double boiler).
+
+When taken from the mold, remove the paper and in its place put a gravy
+formed with chopped chicken giblets cooked in brown stock. Serve hot.
+
+
+89
+
+LIVER LOAF
+
+(Pane di fegato)
+
+Cut about one pound of veal liver in thin slices and four chicken livers
+in two parts and put all this in a saucepan with rosemary and a piece of
+butter. When this is melted put in another piece and season with salt
+and pepper. After four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the liver
+(dry) and grind it together with the rosemary. In the gravy that remains
+in the saucepan put a big crumb of bread, cut into small pieces and make
+a paste that will also be ground with the liver. Then rub everything
+through a sieve, add one whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of grated
+cheese, diluting with brown stock or water. Finally put in a smooth mold
+with a sheet of paper in the bottom, all evenly greased with butter and
+cook in a double boiler. Remove from the mold when cool and serve cold,
+with gelatine.
+
+
+90
+
+VEAL WITH TUNNY
+
+(Vitello tonnato)
+
+Take two pounds of meat without bones, remove the fat and tendons, then
+lard it with two anchovies. These must be washed and boned and cut
+lengthwise, after opening them, making in all eight pieces. Tie the
+piece of meat not very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in
+enough water to cover it completely. Previously put into the water one
+quarter of an onion larded with clover, one leaf of laurel, celery,
+carrot and parsley. Salt the water generously and don't put the veal in
+until it is boiling. When the veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it
+for two or three days in the following sauce in quantity sufficient to
+cover it.
+
+Grind 1/4 pound tunny fish preserved in olive oil and two anchovies,
+crush them well with the blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding
+good olive oil in abundance little by little, and squeeze in one whole
+lemon, so that the sauce should remain liquid. Finally mix in some
+capers soaked in vinegar.
+
+Serve the veal cold, in thin slices, with the sauce.
+
+The stock of the veal can be rubbed through a sieve and used for
+risotto.
+
+
+91
+
+STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH
+
+(Zucchini ripieni)
+
+For a description of the =Zucchini= see No. 32.
+
+To make the stuffed zucchini first cut them lengthwise in two halves and
+remove the interior pulp, leaving space enough for the filling.
+
+Take some lean veal (quantity in proportion to the squashes) cut it into
+pieces and place it on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of onion,
+parsley, celery, carrot, a little corned beef cut in little pieces, a
+little oil, salt and pepper. Stir it often with a spoon and when the
+meat is brown pour in a cup of water and then another after a while.
+Then rub the gravy through a sieve and put it aside.
+
+Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the grinder and make a hash of
+it and one egg, a little grated cheese, a crumb of bread boiled in milk
+or in soup stock and just a taste of nutmeg. Put this hash inside each
+half squash and put them to brown in butter, completing the cooking with
+the gravy set aside.
+
+
+92
+
+STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUTE
+
+(Fagiolini e zucchini saute)
+
+Brown in butter some string beans, that have been previously half cooked
+in water and some raw squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in only
+when the butter is beginning to brown. Season moderately with salt and
+butter and add some brown stock or good tomato sauce.
+
+
+93
+
+STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo)
+
+Take less than a pound of string beans, cutting off the two points and
+removing all the strings, and then cook them partially in water
+moderately salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and brown with
+butter, salt and pepper. Beat one yolk with a teaspoonful of flour and
+the juice of half a small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold broth
+from which the fat has been removed and put this liquid on the fire in a
+small saucepan stirring continually. When the liquid has become, through
+the cooking, like a cream, pour it on the string beans that you will
+keep on the fire a little longer, with the sauce. The string beans so
+prepared can be served with boiled beef.
+
+
+94
+
+STRING BEANS IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di fagiolini)
+
+Take one pound of string beans, seeing that they are quite tender. Cut
+off the ends and remove the strings. Throw them into boiling water with
+a pinch of salt and when they are half cooked take them away and put
+them in cold water. If you have brown stock complete the cooking with
+this and with butter, otherwise brown a piece of onion, some parsley, a
+piece of celery and olive oil. When the onion is browned put in the
+string beans and complete the cooking with a little water if necessary.
+
+Prepare a =Balsamella= sauce (No. 54) with a small piece of butter,
+half a teaspoonful of flour and half a cup of milk. With this, a
+tablespoonful of grated cheese and four beaten eggs bind the string
+beans when they are cold, mix and put in a mold, evenly greased with
+butter and the bottom covered with paper. Cook in a double boiler and
+serve hot.
+
+
+95
+
+CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di cavolfiore)
+
+Take a good sized cauliflower, remove the stalk and outside leaves, half
+cook it in water and then cut it into small pieces. Salt them and put
+them to brown with a little piece of butter and then complete the
+cooking with a cup of milk. Then rub them through a sieve. Prepare a
+=Balsamella= (No. 54) and add it to the cauliflower with 3 beaten eggs
+and a tablespoonful of grated cheese.
+
+Cook in a greased mold and serve hot.
+
+
+96
+
+ARTICHOKES IN MOLD
+
+(Sformato di carciofi)
+
+Remove the outside leaves of the artichokes, the harder part of all
+leaves, and clean the stalks without removing them.
+
+Cut each artichoke into four parts and put them to boil in salt water
+for only five minutes. If left longer on the fire they become too soaked
+in water and lose their taste. Remove from the water, drain them, grind
+or pound and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so obtained with
+two or three beaten eggs, two or three tablespoonfuls of =Balsamella=
+(No. 54) grated cheese, salt and a taste of nutmeg, but taste the
+seasoning several times to see that it is correctly dosed.
+
+Place in a mold with brown stock or meat gravy (in that case use a mold
+with a hole) and cook in double boiler.
+
+
+97
+
+FRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi fritti)
+
+Choose middle-sized mushrooms, which are also of the right ripeness:
+when they are too big they are too soft and if small they are too hard.
+
+Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do not keep in water, for then
+they would lose their pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large
+slices and dip them in flour before putting in the frying pan. Olive oil
+is best for frying mushrooms and the seasoning is composed exclusively
+of salt and pepper to be applied when they are frying. They can also be
+dipped in beaten eggs after being sprinkled with flour, but this is
+superfluous.
+
+
+98
+
+STEWED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi in umido)
+
+For a stew the mushrooms ought to be below middle-size. Clean, wash and
+cut as for the preceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with olive oil, one
+or two cloves of oil and some mint leaves. When the oil begins to
+splutter, put the mushrooms in without dipping in flour, season with
+salt and pepper and when they are half cooked pour in some tomato sauce.
+Be sparing however, with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms do
+not absorb it too much and so lose some of their own delicate flavor.
+
+
+99
+
+DRIED MUSHROOMS
+
+(Funghi secchi)
+
+Mushrooms are an excellent condiment of various dishes and for this
+reason it is well to have some always at hand. Since, however, it is
+not always possible to have them fresh, the following recipe to prepare
+dried mushrooms will be found useful.
+
+First of all wait until there is a sunny day. Choose young mushrooms
+middle sized or big, but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean them well
+in order to remove the earth and, without washing cut them in big
+pieces. This because when dried they diminish considerably in size. Keep
+these pieces exposed in the sun for two or three days, then thread them
+on a string (practising a hole in them) and keep in a well ventilated
+room or in the sun until they become quite dry. Then put them away well
+closed in a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from time to time
+to see if it is necessary to expose them some more to sun and
+ventilation.
+
+To use them soften in warm water, but keep them in as little as
+possible, so that they do not lose their delicate flavor. The best time
+to dry the mushrooms is June or July.
+
+
+100
+
+FRIED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane fritte)
+
+Egg-plant or, as they are also called, mad-apples are an excellent
+vegetable which may be used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or
+middle-sized egg-plants are to be preferred, as the big ones have
+sometimes a slightly bitter taste.
+
+Remove the skin, cut into cubes, salt and leave them in a plate for a
+few hours. Then wipe them to remove the juice that they have thrown out,
+dip in flour and fry in oil.
+
+
+101
+
+STEWED EGG-PLANTS
+
+(Melanzane in umido)
+
+Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place on the fire with a piece
+of butter. When this is all absorbed, complete the cooking with tomato
+sauce (No. 12).
+
+
+102
+
+EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN
+
+(Melanzane al forno)
+
+Skin five or six egg-plants, cut them in round slices and salt them so
+that they throw out the water that they contain. After a few hours dip
+in flour and frying oil.
+
+Take a fireproof vase or baking tin and place the slices in layers, with
+grated cheese between each layer, abundantly seasoned with tomato sauce
+(No. 12).
+
+Beat one egg with a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce, a
+teaspoonful of grated cheese and two of crumbs of bread, and cover the
+upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the oven and when the egg
+is coagulated, serve hot.
+
+
+103
+
+DRESSING OF CELERY
+
+(Sedano per contorno)
+
+The following are three ways to prepare celery to be served as seasoning
+or seasoning for meat dishes. For the first two make the pieces about
+four inches long, and two inches for the third. The stalk must be
+skinned, cut crosswise and left attached to the rib of the celery. Boil
+it in water moderately salted not over five minutes and remove dry.
+
+1. Put the celery to brown in butter, then complete the cooking with
+brown stock (No. 13) and sprinkle with grated cheese when serving.
+
+2. Put in saucepan a piece of butter and a hash made with ham and a
+middle sized onion, chopped fine. Add two cloves and make it boil. When
+the onion is browned add soup stock or hot water with bouillon cubes and
+complete the cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve and put the
+gravy in a plate with the celery, seasoning with pepper only, as the
+salt is already in the ham and serve with the gravy.
+
+3. Dip the celery in flour and in the paste for frying (No. 58) and fry
+in fat or oil. Or else dip in flour and then in beaten egg, wrap in
+bread crumbs and fry.
+
+
+104
+
+ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCE
+
+(Carciofi in salsa)
+
+Remove the hard leaves of the artichokes, cut the points and skin the
+stalk. Divide each artichoke into four parts or six if they are big, and
+put them on the fire with butter in proportion, seasoning with salt and
+pepper. Shake the saucepan to turn them and when they have absorbed a
+good part of the melted butter, pour in some broth to complete the
+cooking. Remove them dry, and in the gravy that remains put a pinch of
+chopped parsley, one or two teaspoonfuls of cheese grated fine, lemon
+juice, more salt and pepper if needed, and, mixing the whole, make it
+simmer for a while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and add one or
+two yolks of egg, according to the quantity and put back on the fire
+with more broth to make the sauce loose. Put the artichokes in the sauce
+this second time to heat them and serve especially as a side-dish for
+boiled meat.
+
+
+105
+
+STUFFED ARTICHOKES
+
+(Carciofi ripieni)
+
+Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small outside leaves and wash the
+artichokes. Then cut the top and open the internal leaves so that you
+can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove the hairy part if it is
+there. Keep aside the small interior leaves to put them with the
+stuffing. This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes, must be
+composed of the above small leaves, 1/8 lb. of ham more lean than fat,
+one fourth of a small onion, just a taste of garlic, some leaves of
+celery or parsley, a pinch of dry mushrooms, softened in water, a crumb
+of bread and a pinch of pepper, but no salt.
+
+First chop the ham, then grind everything together and with the hash
+fill the artichokes, and put them to cook standing on their stalks in a
+saucepan with some oil, salt and pepper. Some prefer to give the
+artichokes a half cooking in water before stuffing it, but it is hardly
+advisable, because in this way they lose part of their special flavor.
+
+
+106
+
+ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT
+
+(Carciofi ripieni di carne)
+
+For six artichokes, make the following stuffing:
+
+  1/4 lb. lean veal.
+  Two slices of ham, more fat than lean.
+  The interior part of the artichokes.
+  One fourth of onion (small).
+  Some leaves of parsley.
+  One pinch of softened dried mushrooms.
+  One small crumb of bread rolled and sifted.
+  One pinch of grated cheese.
+
+When the artichokes have been browned with oil alone, pour a little
+water and cover with a moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The
+steam that surrounds the artichokes cooks them better.
+
+
+107
+
+PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Piselli alla francese)
+
+The following recipe is good for one of fresh peas. Take two young
+onions, cut them in half, put some stems of parsley in the middle and
+tie them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of butter and when
+they are browned, pour over a cup of soup stock. Make it boil and when
+the onions are softened rub them through a sieve together with the gravy
+that you will then put on the fire with the peas and two whole hearts of
+lettuce. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer. When the peas
+are half cooked add another piece of butter dipped in a scant
+tablespoonful of flour and pour in some broth, if necessary. Before
+sending to the table put in two yolks of eggs dissolved in a little
+broth.
+
+II
+
+The following recipe is simpler than the preceding, but not so delicate.
+Cut an onion in very thin slices and put it on the fire in a saucepan
+with a little butter. When it is well browned add a pinch of flour, mix
+and then add according to the quantity, a cup or two of soup stock or
+water with bouillon cubes and allow the flour to cook. Put in the peas,
+season with salt and pepper and add, when they are half cooked, one or
+two whole hearts of lettuce. Let it simmer, seeing that the gravy is not
+too thick.
+
+Before serving remove the lettuce.
+
+
+108
+
+PEAS WITH HAM
+
+(Piselli col prosciutto)
+
+Cut in two one or two young onions, according to the quantity of the
+peas and put them on the fire with oil and one thick slice of ham cut
+into small cubes. Brown until the ham is shrivelled; then put the peas
+in, season with a pinch of pepper and very little salt, mix and complete
+the cooking with broth, adding a little butter.
+
+Before serving, throw the onion away.
+
+
+109
+
+PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF
+
+(Piselli con la carne secca)
+
+Put on the fire a hash of corned beef, garlic, parsley and oil, season
+with a little salt and pepper and when the garlic is browned, put the
+peas in. When they have absorbed the sauce, complete the cooking with
+broth or, failing that, with water.
+
+
+110
+
+STUFFED TOMATOES
+
+(Pomodori ripieni)
+
+Select ripe middle-sized tomatoes, cut them in two equal parts and scoop
+out the inside seeds. Season with salt and pepper and fill the tomatoes
+with the following hash, in such a way as to make the stuffing come over
+the edge of the half tomato:
+
+Make a hash with onion, parsley and celery, put it on the fire with a
+piece of butter and when it is browned, put in a small handful of dried
+mushrooms previously softened in water and chopped very fine: add a
+tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk, season with salt and
+pepper and let the compound simmer, moistening with water if necessary.
+When you take from the fire add, when it is still lukewarm, grated
+cheese and a beaten yolk (or two) of egg, but seeing that the compound
+does not become too liquid.
+
+When the tomatoes are filled, take them in the oven with a little butter
+and oil mixed together and serve them as a side-dish for roast beef or
+steak.
+
+The stuffed tomatoes can be made simpler with a hash of garlic and
+parsley mixed with bread crumbs, salt and pepper and seasoned with oil
+when they are in the saucepan.
+
+
+111
+
+CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA
+
+(Cavolfiore colla balsamella)
+
+Remove from a good sized cauliflower the external leaves and the green
+ribs, make a deep cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in salted
+water. Then cut it in sections and brown with butter, salt and pepper.
+Put it in a baking tin, throw over a small pinch of grated cheese, cover
+with the =balsamella= (No. 54) and brown the surface.
+
+Serve this cauliflower as an =entremets= or as a side-dish with boiled
+chicken or a stew.
+
+
+112
+
+STUFFED CABBAGE
+
+(Cavolo ripieno)
+
+Take a big cabbage, remove the hard outside leaves, cut the stem off
+even with the leaves and give it half cooking in salt water. Put it
+upside down to drain, then open the leaves one by one until the heart is
+exposed and on this put the stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close
+them and tie with thread crosswise.
+
+The stuffing can be made with milk veal stewed alone, or with sweetbread
+or chicken liver, all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, add some
+=balsamella= (No 54) a pinch of grated cheese, one yolk of egg and a
+taste of nutmeg. Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sauce of
+this stew, adding a little butter, on a low fire or in the oven kept
+low.
+
+Instead of filling the whole cabbage, the larger leaves may be filled
+one by one, rolling and tying them.
+
+
+113
+
+SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH
+
+(Spinaci per contorno)
+
+After cooking the spinach in boiling water and chopping them fine, the
+spinach can be cooked in different ways:
+
+1. With butter, salt and pepper, adding a little brown stock, if you
+have it, or a few tablespoonfuls of broth, or milk.
+
+2. With onion sauce (onion chopped very fine) and butter.
+
+3. With butter salt and pepper, adding a very small pinch of grated
+cheese.
+
+4. With butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato
+paste diluted with soup stock or water.
+
+
+114
+
+ASPARAGUS
+
+(Sparagi)
+
+Asparagus can be prepared in many different ways, but the simplest and
+best is that of boiling them and serving them seasoned with olive oil
+and vinegar or lemon juice. However there are other ways as, for
+instance, the following: Put them whole to brown a little with the green
+part in butter and, after seasoning them with salt, pepper and a pinch
+of grated cheese, pour over the melted butter when it is browned. Or
+else divide the white from the green part and place them as follows in a
+fireproof plate: Dust the bottom with grated cheese and dispose over the
+points of the asparagus one near the other; season with salt, pepper,
+grated cheese and little pieces of butter. Make another layer of
+asparagus and, seasoning in the same way, continue until you have them.
+Be moderate in the seasoning. Cross the layers of asparagus like a
+trestle, put on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is melted. Serve
+hot.
+
+If you have some brown stock, parboil them first and complete the
+cooking with brown stock, adding a little bust and dusting moderately
+with grated cheese.
+
+
+115
+
+FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS
+
+(Pesce col pane grattato)
+
+This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is made especially when
+you have boiled fish of good quality left over.
+
+Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all the bones, then put it
+in the =balsamella= (No. 54) and season with enough salt, grated cheese
+and some mushrooms chopped fine. If dried mushrooms soften in water
+first. Then take a fireproof plate, grease it evenly with butter and
+dust with bread crumbs ground fine; pour into it the fish prepared as
+above and cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs. Finally put over a
+piece of butter, brown in the oven and serve hot.
+
+
+116
+
+STEWED FISH CUTLETS
+
+(Pesce a taglio in umido)
+
+The fish that can be used for this dish are the tunny, the umber or
+grayling, the sword fish and any piece of fish of large size and good
+savor. A pound may be sufficient for four or five persons.
+
+Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in flour and put to brown in
+a little oil. Remove dry, throw away the oil that remains and clean the
+saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with half a middle sized
+onion, a piece of white celery and a good pinch of parsley. Put this to
+brown on the fire with sufficient oil and season with salt, pepper and
+one whole clove. When it is browned put abundant tomato sauce (No 12) or
+tomato paste diluted in broth or water. Let it simmer for a while, then
+place the fish to complete the cooking, turning it over frequently. The
+fish must be served with this thick gravy that ought to be abundant.
+
+
+117
+
+WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
+
+(Merluzzo alla Palermitana)
+
+Take one whiting, one pound or a little more, and trim all the fins,
+leaving the tail and the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season
+with a little salt and pepper. Turn it on the back, grease with oil,
+season with salt and pepper, dust with bread crumbs then lay it with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil on a fireproof plate or baking tin.
+
+Take three or four good sized anchovies, bone and clean them, chop them
+and put on the fire with two tablespoonfuls of oil, but do not allow it
+to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the fish and dust it all with
+bread crumbs, putting also some leaves of rosemary. Bake in the oven,
+allowing a little crust to form over, but see that it doesn't dry up,
+pouring over to this purpose more oil. Before removing from the tin
+squeeze half a lemon over.
+
+This dish can be served surrounded by little toast with caviar, or
+anchovies and butter.
+
+
+118
+
+STEWED EEL
+
+(Anguille in umido)
+
+For this dish it is preferable to have good sized eels that must not be
+skinned, but cut in small pieces.
+
+Chop some onion and parsley, put it on the fire with oil, salt, and
+pepper, and when the onion is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until
+it has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then complete the
+cooking with tomato sauce (No. 12).
+
+See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with little squares or
+diamonds of toast.
+
+
+119
+
+EELS WITH PEAS
+
+(Anguille coi piselli)
+
+Cook the eels as above with the onion sauce and when it is cooked remove
+it dry to cook the green peas in the sauce. The pieces of eel should be
+put back in the sauce to be warmed. No tomato sauce is necessary here.
+
+
+120
+
+MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE
+
+(Arselle in salsa d'uovo)
+
+A good washing with fresh water is sufficient for mussels that do not
+have any sand to be cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce of
+oil, garlic, parsley and a pinch of pepper. Shake them and keep the
+saucepan covered seeing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take
+them out when they are open and prepare the following sauce: one or more
+yolks of egg, according to the quantity, lemon juice, one teaspoonful of
+flour, broth and some of their own juice. Cook this sauce until it
+becomes a smooth cream and pour it on the mussels when they are served.
+
+
+121
+
+MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Arselle alla livornese)
+
+Chop fine half an onion and put it on the fire with oil and a pinch of
+pepper. When the onion begins to brown add a pinch of parsley chopped
+not very fine and after put in the mussels with tomato sauce (No. 12)
+or tomato paste diluted in water. Shake them often and when they are
+open, put them over slices of toast prepared beforehand and arranged on
+a plate.
+
+
+122
+
+CODFISH
+
+(Baccala)
+
+I
+
+Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, changing the water two or
+three times, or, better, keeping it for some time in a vase under
+running cold water. Then cut it into pieces as large as the palm of the
+hand and dip them in flour until they are well covered. Then put a
+kettle or a saucepan on the fire with plenty of oil and two or three
+cloves of garlic, whole but a little crushed. When the garlic begins to
+brown put in the codfish and brown it on both sides, stirring it often,
+so that it doesn't burn. Salt is not necessary, or at least only a
+little after tasting, but a little pepper will not be amiss. Finally
+pour over some tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted in water,
+let it boil a little more and serve.
+
+
+123
+
+II
+
+The following is another way to prepare the codfish, slightly different
+from the preceding. Cut the codfish as above, then put it as it is in
+saucepan with some olive oil. Spread over it a hash of garlic and
+parsley and season with a pinch of pepper, oil and little pieces of
+butter. Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, because, not being
+sprinkled with flour, it breaks easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a
+lemon over and serve.
+
+
+124
+
+FRIED CODFISH
+
+(Baccala fritto)
+
+Place the codfish on the fire--after washing as explained in No. 107--in
+a kettle with cold water and as salt, and as soon as the water boils,
+remove the codfish.
+
+After boiling cut it in little pieces and remove all the bones. Sprinkle
+some flour and dip in a frying paste composed of water, flour and a
+little oil. Fry in oil and serve hot.
+
+
+125
+
+CODFISH CROQUETTES
+
+(Cotolette di baccala)
+
+Boil as explained above and, if the quantity is one pound or a little
+more put together two anchovies and some parsley, chopping everything
+together very fine. Add some pepper, a tablespoonful of grated cheese,
+three or four tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of bread crumbs in large
+pieces, water and butter, and two eggs. Give the compound the form of
+several flat cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and in ground bread crumbs.
+Fry in oil and serve with lemon, or tomato sauce.
+
+
+126
+
+FRIED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo fritto)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in slices, not very thick, and place it in a plate with
+beaten eggs somewhat salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour
+before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of bread crumbs, grated
+cheese, garlic and parsley chopped fine, salt and pepper. A clove of
+garlic is sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in oil and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+127
+
+STEWED DOG-FISH
+
+(Palombo in umido)
+
+Cut the dog-fish in rather big pieces and then make a hash of garlic,
+parsley and very little onion. Put this hash on the fire with oil and
+when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces of dog-fish and season
+with salt and pepper. When the fish is cooked pour over some tomato
+sauce (No. 12), let this simmer for a while, then serve.
+
+
+128
+
+ROAST-BEEF
+
+(Arrosto)
+
+Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still it is prepared in a
+peculiar way by the Italians, and hence this recipe finds its place
+here.
+
+To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two pounds ought to be cooked
+on a strong fire. It ought to be covered with good olive oil and finally
+with cup of soup stock which with the oil and the juice from the meat
+will form a rich gravy. Salt it only when it is half cooked and do it
+moderately, because the beef is already tasty by itself.
+
+Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup is served and the meal
+begins. This will be sufficient if the piece is not very big. To
+ascertain the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin
+larding-pin, but not often, in order not to allow too much juice to
+escape. The juice must neither be of the color of the blood nor too
+dark.
+
+If baked it is to be seasoned with salt, oil and a piece of butter,
+surrounded by raw potatoes peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of broth or
+of water. If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it into slices and
+warm with butter and brown stock or tomato sauce.
+
+
+129
+
+ROAST VEAL
+
+(Arrosto di vitella)
+
+Choose for that milk veal that is to be found all the year round,
+although it is always better during the spring or summer.
+
+The piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a saucepan, slightly larded
+with garlic and rosemary, with oil, butter and a hash of corned beef,
+salt, pepper and tomato sauce. In the gravy fresh peas can be cooked.
+
+
+130
+
+POT ROAST
+
+(Arrosto morto)
+
+This can be done with all kinds of meats, but the best is milk veal.
+Take a good piece of the loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on
+the fire with good olive oil and butter, both in small quantity. Brown
+well from all sides, salt when half cooked and complete the cooking with
+a half cup of broth, seeing that little juice remains. If no broth is at
+hand, use tomato sauce, or tomato paste diluted with water. Some corned
+beef chopped fine can also be added.
+
+
+131
+
+POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY
+
+(Arrosto morto coll'odore dell'aglio e del ramerino)
+
+Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of garlic and one or two bunches
+of rosemary in the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the gravy
+through a sieve without pressing and surround the meat with potatoes or
+vegetables cooked apart.
+
+The leg of lamb comes very well in this way, baked in the oven.
+
+
+132
+
+BIRDS
+
+(Arrosto di uccelli)
+
+The best way to cook birds, and that nearly always used by the Italians,
+is roasted at the spit. They must be spitted with a small slice of bread
+between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very thin slices of bacon, in
+such a way that it can be spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the
+bacon almost as thin as paper. Pass some oil--only once--over when they
+begin to brown, using a brush or a feather, and salt only once,
+moderately.
+
+Put on the fire when near to be served, otherwise they may get dry and
+lose much of their flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good
+fire.
+
+
+133
+
+ROAST OF LAMB
+
+(Arrosto d'agnello)
+
+Take a leg of lamb and season it with salt, pepper, oil and a drop of
+vinegar. Pierce it here and there with the point of a knife and leave it
+like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay leaf or rosemary to
+be removed when serving. The leg of lamb can be baked or, as the
+Italians do, cooked at the spit.
+
+
+134
+
+LEG OF MUTTON
+
+(Cosciotto di castrato arrosto)
+
+Before cooking see that several days elapse after the animal has been
+butchered. This, naturally, according to the temperature. Beat it well
+with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the middle bone, without
+spoiling the meat. Then tie it and give it a good fire at the beginning,
+covering the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its own juice and in
+a cup of broth strained to remove the fat; nothing else. Salt when it is
+almost cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor rare, just
+medium. Serve with its juice apart in a sauce.
+
+
+135
+
+ROAST OF HARE
+
+(Arrosto di lepre)
+
+The part of the hare fitted for roast is the hind quarters, but the
+limbs of this game are covered with little skins that must be carefully
+removed, before cooking, without cutting the muscles.
+
+Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or fourteen hours in a liquid
+prepared as follows: put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of water
+with half a tumbler of vinegar or less in proportion with the piece to
+be cooked, three of four scallions chopped fine, one or two bay-leaves,
+a bunch of parsley, a little salt and a pinch of pepper; make it boil
+for five or six minutes, cool and pour when cold over the hare. When you
+remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard it all with little
+pieces of good bacon.
+
+Cook on a low fire, salt it sufficiently and grease with cream and
+nothing else. Never use the liver of the hare which, it is said, is very
+indigestible.
+
+
+136
+
+POT ROAST LARDED
+
+(Arrosto morto lardellato)
+
+Take a piece short and thick of beef or veal, quite tender and weighing
+about two pounds or a little more. Lard it with ham or bacon cut in
+little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a stewpan with a piece of
+butter, one fourth of a middle-sized onion cut in two pieces, three or
+four ribs of celery half an inch thick and as many slices of carrot.
+Season with salt and pepper and when the meat begins to brown--turning
+it often--pour over one cup of water and complete the cooking on a low
+fire, leaving it to absorb great part of the gravy. See, however, that
+it doesn't dry up and become black. When you send to the table strain
+the juice that has remained and pour it on the meat, that may be
+surrounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept whole if small,
+previously browned in butter or oil.
+
+
+137
+
+PIGEON SURPRISE
+
+(Piccione a sorpresa)
+
+The pigeon (or chicken) must be opened and stuffed with a cutlet of milk
+veal. Of course this cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well
+to render it thinner and more tender, season with salt, pepper, a pinch
+of spices and little pieces of butter, roll it and put inside the pigeon
+sewing the opening. The liver and giblets of the pigeon can be cooked
+apart in brown stock or in butter, after being chopped. With the
+resulting gravy the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the different
+flavor of the two qualities of meat is better amalgamated.
+
+
+138
+
+STUFFED BEEF CUTLET
+
+(Braciuola di manzo ripiena)
+
+The ingredients for this dish are a slice of beef half an inch thick,
+weighing about one pound, half a pound or less of lean milk veal, two
+small slices of ham and two or three of tongue, one scant tablespoonful
+of grated cheese, a piece of butter, two chicken livers, one egg, a
+crumb of bread as large as a closed fist.
+
+Make a hash with a small onion, a little celery, carrot and parsley, put
+it on the fire with the butter and when it is browned, place in the
+saucepan the veal cut in small pieces and the chicken livers, season
+with little salt and pepper and complete the cooking with a little
+broth. Remove the veal and chicken when cooked, and chop them fine. In
+the gravy that remains make a pap rather hard with the crumb of bread,
+moistening with broth if necessary. Now mix the chopped meat, the pap,
+the eggs, the cheese, the ham and tongue cut in little pieces. When the
+stuffing is composed thus, dip the cutlet in water, in order to stretch
+it better, beat it with the back of the knife and flatten with its
+blades. Put the stuffing inside and roll up and tie tightly with a
+string crosswise. Roast or bake with oil and salt.
+
+
+139
+
+STUFFED CHICKEN
+
+(Pollo ripieno)
+
+For a middle-sized fowl use the following ingredients: two sausages, the
+liver and giblets of the fowl, eight or ten chestnuts well roasted, some
+pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg, one egg. If, instead of a fowl,
+it is a turkey, double the dose.
+
+Begin by giving the sausages and the giblets half a cooking, moistening
+them with a little broth if necessary. Season with a little salt and
+pepper on account of the sausages that already contain them. Remove them
+and in the gravy that remains put a crumb of bread, in order to obtain
+with a little broth two tablespoonfuls of thick pap. Skin the sausages,
+chop the chicken giblets and the giblets and grind everything together
+with the chestnuts, the egg and the pap; this is the stuffing with which
+the fowl is to be filled, to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold
+than hot, and it can also be cut better.
+
+
+140
+
+CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE
+
+(Pollo al diavolo)
+
+This ought to be cooked with Cayenne pepper and served with a highly
+seasoned sauce, but not everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook
+the chicken "al diavolo" is the following:
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and the legs, open it all in front
+and flatten it open as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a towel,
+then put it on the grill and when it begins to brown turn it. Grease it
+with melted butter or with oil, using a brush, and season with salt and
+pepper. The later may be Cayenne pepper for those who like it. Keep
+turning and greasing until it is all cooked.
+
+To prepare the sauce piquante that many like with chicken broiled in
+this way, put four tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and when it
+begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it is
+well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the
+range and slowly add two cupfuls of brown stock, stirring constantly,
+add salt and a dash of Cayenne and let simmer for ten minutes. In
+another saucepan boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar one tablespoonful
+of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar rapidly for five minutes;
+then add it to the sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful of
+chopped capers two tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle and one teaspoonful
+of tarragon vinegar. Stir well and let cook for two minutes to heat the
+pickles. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little water.
+
+This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all roasts and boiled meats,
+besides being a fitting condiment for the chicken "al diavolo".
+
+
+141
+
+CHICKEN WITH HAM
+
+(Pollo in porchetta)
+
+Fill a chicken with thin strips of ham, about half an inch wide. Add
+three cloves (or sections) of garlic, two little bunches of fennel and a
+few grains of pepper. Season outside with salt and pepper and cook in a
+saucepan with butter, or preferably bake in the oven. Sausages cut
+lengthwise and previously skinned can be substituted for the ham.
+
+
+142
+
+CHICKEN SAUTE
+
+(Pollo saltato)
+
+Take a young chicken, remove the neck and trim the wings. Cut away the
+legs. Cut the chicken into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. Beat
+an egg with a teaspoonful of water and place in it the pieces of chicken
+after dipping them in flour and seasoning generously with salt and
+pepper. Leave the pieces in the egg until it is time for cooking. Then
+take the pieces one by one, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place a
+saucepan with a good piece of butter on the fire. When the butter begins
+to brown put in the pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then
+turn them when browned to the other side. Let them on a good fire for
+about ten minutes. Serve with lemon. The chicken prepared in this way is
+good also when cold.
+
+
+143
+
+AFRICAN HEN
+
+(Gallina di Faraone)
+
+This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should not be too fresh, like
+all game.
+
+The best way to cook the African hen is roasted at the spit. Put in the
+inside a ball of butter dipped in salt and wrap it in a piece of paper
+greased with butter and sprinkled with salt. This paper must be removed
+when the fowl is nearly cooked, and then the cooking is completed
+greasing with more butter and adding more salt.
+
+
+144
+
+TAME DUCK ROASTED
+
+(Anatra domestica arrosto)
+
+Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with slices of bacon, large
+and thin. Grease with oil and salt moderately when the cooking is almost
+complete. If you have a wild duck grease with butter, as the meat is
+drier.
+
+
+145
+
+TURKEY
+
+(Tacchino)
+
+The turkey has been imported to Europe from America, but it is
+nevertheless a well known dish in Italian families, although not
+enjoying the popularity that it has on this side of the ocean. When
+roasted it is generally larded moderately with little pieces of garlic
+and bay-leaf or rosemary and seasoned with a hash of corned beef or
+bacon, a little butter, salt and pepper, tomato sauce or tomato paste
+diluted in water. The breast, flattened until it is about half an inch
+thick and seasoned generously some hours before cooking with oil, salt
+and pepper, is excellent broiled on the grill.
+
+
+146
+
+LOIN OF PORK ROASTED
+
+(Lombo di maiale arrosto)
+
+The loin of pork, cut in little pieces forms an excellent roast at the
+spit. The pieces of pork are to be divided by little pieces of toast and
+greased with oil.
+
+If the pork is to be baked, choose that piece of the loin that has its
+ribs and that may weigh six or eight pounds. Lard it with garlic,
+rosemary or bay leaf and a few cloves, but moderately, and season with
+salt and pepper.
+
+This roast is very popular in Italy, where they call it =arista=.
+
+
+147
+
+LEG OF LAMB
+
+(Agnello all'Orientale)
+
+This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient and adopted by the
+Italians, especially in Southern Italy. The leg of lamb is to be larded
+with the larding pin with slices of bacon seasoned with salt and pepper,
+greased with butter or milk, or milk alone and salted when half cooked.
+
+The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do not lard it, as pork is
+forbidden by their religion, but cook it with an abundance of milk.
+
+
+148
+
+BROILED PIGEON
+
+(Piccione in gratella)
+
+Take a young, but fat pigeon, divide it in two parts lengthwise and
+flatten it well with the hands. Then put it to brown in oil for four or
+five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season when still hot with salt
+and pepper, then arrange it as follows.
+
+Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of butter and mix the
+liquid butter with one beaten egg. Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg
+and keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with bread crumbs
+ground fine. Cook on a grill on a low fire and serve with a sauce or a
+side dish.
+
+
+149
+
+STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN
+
+(Bistecca nel tegame)
+
+If you have a steak that does not appear to be too tender, put it in a
+saucepan with a little piece of butter and some good olive oil, with a
+taste of garlic and bay-leaf or rosemary. Add, if necessary, a little
+broth or water or tomato sauce and serve with potatoes cooked in the
+gravy that can be made more abundant with more broth, butter and tomato
+sauce.
+
+
+150
+
+VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY
+
+(Rognone alle acciughe)
+
+Take a veal kidney, remove the fat, cut it open and cover with boiling
+water. When the water has cooled, remove the kidney, wipe with a cloth,
+and pass through it clean sticks to make it stay open. Season with
+melted butter, salt and pepper and leave it so prepared for an hour or
+two.
+
+Then take another piece of butter and two or three anchovies. Clean the
+latter, chop and mix with the butter with the blade of a knife, making a
+ball. Cook the kidney on the grill, but not too much, in order to keep
+it tender, put it on a plate and grease when hot with the ball of butter
+and anchovies.
+
+
+151
+
+VEAL KIDNEY SLICED
+
+(Rognone di vitello affettato)
+
+Cut in thin slices one or two veal kidneys, removing the granulous part
+that is to be found in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan with
+a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley chopped very fine together with a
+clove of garlic. Add a cup of hot broth; salt moderately and let it cook
+without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to about one third.
+
+One tablespoonful of vinegar adds a pleasant taste to this dish.
+
+
+152
+
+BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY
+
+(Rognone di montone alla graticola)
+
+After washing the kidneys, remove the filmy skin that covers them and
+cut them in the middle without, however, detaching completely the two
+parts. Season with salt and pepper, grease with oil and put them on a
+strong fire on the grill. After ten or twelve minutes they will be
+broiled. Serve hot with parsley and slices of lemon.
+
+
+153
+
+MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED
+
+(Granelli di montone fritti)
+
+Wash, remove the skin that covers the kidneys and cut in very thin
+slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip first in ground bread crumbs, then in a
+beaten egg mixed with melted butter, then again in the bread crumbs.
+This must be done rapidly, at the time of frying, otherwise the bread
+crumbs absorb the moisture of the kidney and make them too hard.
+
+Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan on a strong fire and when it begins
+to brown, dip the slices of kidney. Turn often, sprinkle with a little
+parsley chopped fine, salt and serve with lemon.
+
+
+154
+
+BEEF TONGUE BOILED
+
+(Lingua di bue lessa)
+
+The tongue is boiled like the beef. When half cooked remove the skin,
+which is not nice to see and has no nutritious elements, although it is
+served with a puree of peas, or spinach or potatoes or beans, etc.
+But it can be served simply with sprigs of parsley.
+
+
+155
+
+BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES
+
+(Lingua di bue alle olive)
+
+Scald the tongue and peel off the skin. Then put it back to boil until
+fully cooked.
+
+Melt a piece of butter and brown half a medium sized onion cut in
+slices. When the onion is browned remove it from the butter and dilute
+in the latter a teaspoonful of flour. When the flour begins to brown,
+thin it with one or two cups of soup stock hot and passed through a
+sieve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.
+
+When the sauce is prepared place the tongue in the saucepan containing
+it and let it cook again on a low fire for about an hour, turning it
+over frequently and keeping it moistened with the gravy. Cut some olives
+in a spiral to remove the stone and place it in the saucepan with the
+tongue. This becomes more tasty if left with the olives for one or two
+days.
+
+
+156
+
+STEWED BEEF TONGUE
+
+(Lingua di bue in stufato)
+
+Clean a fresh tongue of beef; put it in a plate, salt it generously and
+put it back in the ice-box or in the pantry, until the following day.
+
+After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling water, skin and lard with
+little pieces of bacon and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in
+which the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning consists of 1/2
+lb. bacon cut in very thin slices, 1/4 lb. butter, one or two thin
+slices of ham and two middle sized onions, sliced. Sprinkle the tongue
+with flour, surround it with chopped meat and place the saucepan on the
+fire. When the tongue begins to brown, pour five or six cups of soup
+stock and one cup of water. Add the usual bunch of greens, two or three
+cloves, salt, a pinch of pepper and one of cinnamon.
+
+Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four hours, rub the sauce
+through a sieve and serve everything hot.
+
+
+157
+
+VEAL SWEETBREADS
+
+(Animelle di vitello)
+
+Keep in fresh water for an hour. Then place them in a skimmer (ladle
+with holes) and dip in boiling water or broth. After a brief boiling
+remove and cool in cold water. Then remove the veins and gullet, taking
+care not to tear them. The sweetbreads are prepared in various ways and
+here we give some of the best known:
+
+=Sweetbreads with butter.=--Boil in broth or water, clean and cut into
+slices. Brown a piece of butter with salt and pepper. Then place the
+sliced sweetbreads and brown them. Before serving squeeze on a little
+lemon juice. The sweetbreads prepared in this way are served preferably
+with rice or vegetables.
+
+=Sweetbreads with white sauce.=--Boiled, cleaned and cut into slices,
+they are placed in white sauce or =balsamella= (No. 54) adding a taste
+of nutmeg, pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon.
+
+=Sweetbreads in fricassee.=--Boil, trim and cut into pieces. Then brown
+in butter with a scallion chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the
+gravy in which pour a tablespoonful of flour, moistened with broth. The
+sauce that results is bound with egg-yolks and lemon juice.
+
+=Sweetbreads fried.=--Boil and trim. Then cut in large slices, neither
+too thick nor too thin. Dip in beaten egg and in bread crumbs ground.
+Then fry in butter. Serve with vegetables.
+
+
+158
+
+TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES
+
+(Filetto alla piemontese)
+
+Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little skins. Then sprinkle
+with nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and place in an earthen vase
+covered, together with a bunch of aromatic herbs, sage, parsley,
+rosemary, onion, carrot and celery, all chopped fine. After a few hours
+melt and brown a piece of butter with the aromatic herbs, then remove
+the latter and place the tenderloin, leaving it to simmer for half an
+hour, pricking it often with a large fork or a larding pin, to add its
+juice to the gravy. Serve hot.
+
+
+159
+
+STUFFED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle ripiene)
+
+Boil six large onions for an hour. Then drain and skin. Remove the heart
+with the point of a knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing
+made with 1/4 lb. ham or tongue, chopped and mixed with bread crumbs
+ground, two tablespoonfuls of milk, two pinches of salt and one of
+pepper. When the onions are prepared and stuffed place them in a
+saucepan whose bottom has been greased with butter, sprinkle with bread
+crumbs ground and place in the oven, not too hot. At the time of serving
+add some white sauce or =balsamella= (No 54). Stuffed onions are served
+as vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or boiled-beef.
+
+
+160
+
+STEWED ONIONS
+
+(Cipolle in stufato)
+
+Keep in cold water, for half an hour, two pounds of middle-sized onions.
+Afterward skin and place in a saucepan in which pour as much broth as is
+necessary to cover them. Let them cook on a low fire for an hour, if
+they are scallions, or young onions. If they are not, two hours are not
+enough, sometimes.
+
+When cooked and soft, drain and place in a large deep dish. Brown a
+piece of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, a cup of broth, salt and
+pepper. Mix everything and when it begins to boil pour the sauce on the
+onions, which must be served hot.
+
+
+161
+
+VEAL LIVER
+
+(Fegato di vitella alla veneziana)
+
+Brown a large onion cut in thin slices in oil and place in the saucepan
+the liver cut in thin slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When
+the liver takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is overdone, it
+becomes too hard. Salt just before removing from the saucepan.
+
+
+162
+
+FRIED LIVER
+
+(Fegato al tegame)
+
+Clean and trim the liver, then cut in slices half an inch thick. Dip in
+flour and place, without delay in a saucepan in which a small onion has
+been browned in butter. Salt just before serving.
+
+
+163
+
+POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES
+
+(Polenta colle salsicce)
+
+The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern Italy and can be
+prepared in various ways. Always, however, it is better to serve with
+the addition of sausages, or with birds or tomato paste.
+
+The =polenta= is practically cornmeal and it is made with the so-called
+=farina gialla= or yellow flour.
+
+The ingredients for a good polenta are one pound of corn meal,
+preferably granulous, one quart and a half of water, salted in
+proportion, one piece of butter, one cup and a half of milk.
+
+Pour the meal little by little into boiling water, continually stirring
+with a wooden spoon. When the meal is half cooked, put the butter and
+pour the milk little by little. While the =polenta= boils, place on the
+fire in a little saucepan a tablespoonful of olive oil or a small piece
+of butter. When the oil is hot or the butter is melted, put some
+sausages repeatedly pricked with a fork.
+
+When the sausages are cooked, pour the polenta hot in a dish and place
+the sausages and the gravy in a cavity practised in the middle. Serve
+hot.
+
+In cooking the sausages two or three bay-leaves may be added and removed
+before serving.
+
+
+164
+
+SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS
+
+(Salsicce alla cipollata)
+
+The =salsicce alla cipollata= are prepared with fresh and lean pork meat
+and bacon in equal quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with salt,
+pepper and spices. Add a proportional quantity of onions chopped very
+fine, not too much, however. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails,
+tie every two inches to divide the sausages.
+
+
+CELERY
+
+(Sedano)
+
+Beside being used as a condiment with a great quantity of dishes, the
+celery may be prepared in various different ways to form appetizing
+vegetable dishes. We give here a certain number of those that appear
+most commonly on Italian tables:
+
+
+165
+
+CELERY WITH BUTTER
+
+(Sedano al burro)
+
+Two heads of celery for each person.
+
+Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are too hard, and the leaves,
+that are to be cut where they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem.
+Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain and put to boil in salted
+boiling water. Remove when cooked and drain again.
+
+About three quarters of an hour before serving, melt a piece of butter
+in a saucepan and brown the celery, turning them often for about ten
+minutes. After that pour over hot stock (soup stock or chicken broth)
+cover the saucepan and parboil. A few moments before serving season with
+brown stock, if you have any at hand, otherwise with salt and pepper
+only.
+
+
+166
+
+CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Sedano al sugo)
+
+Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor too soft, and cut them
+about four inches from the root. Remove the green and hard branches and
+trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. Scald the celery, after
+washing well, in salted boiling water. Ten minutes will be sufficient.
+Dip in cold water, open well the leaves and wash again carefully. Drain
+and make bunches of two or three heads each that you will put in a
+saucepan with a pint of broth or water and half a cup of good fat, onion
+and carrot chopped, salt and pepper. Cover and let it simmer for about
+two hour. Then remove the celery, drain and serve.
+
+
+167
+
+SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS
+
+(Salsa per sedani al sugo)
+
+The celery, prepared as above, are seasoned with the following sauce:
+Make a =roux= melting a piece of butter and browning an equal weight of
+flour; stir for about three minutes on the fire, after which thin the
+roux with a little brown stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in water.
+Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub through a sieve, pour
+over the celery and serve very hot.
+
+
+168
+
+FRIED CELERY
+
+(Sedani fritti)
+
+This is a convenient way to prepare left-over celery that is still too
+good to be thrown away.
+
+Clean the left-over celery removing as best you can the sauce in which
+they were served, dip in frying paste (flour and egg) fry and serve with
+lemon.
+
+
+169
+
+PUREE OF CELERY
+
+(Macco di sedani)
+
+Take some big roots of celery, prepare as usual and wash in running
+water. Boil in salted water, crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a
+saucepan this puree, with a piece of butter, salt, flour and a little
+cream or milk. The milk may be substituted with good soup stock or brown
+stock. Just before serving add a little powdered sugar.
+
+
+170
+
+STEW
+
+(Stufato)
+
+The Italian =stufato= is somewhat different from the stewed meat that
+is known under the name of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French
+=daube= and is prepared in Italy in many different ways.
+
+An excellent =stufato= can be made in the following way: Chop fine two
+bunches of parsley, a small carrot, half a medium sized onion, a little
+piece of scallion and two bay-leaves. Brown with a good piece of butter
+in a saucepan in which one and a half tablespoonful of oil have been
+previously poured.
+
+The meat must have been prepared beforehand, that is to say washed,
+trimmed and larded. When half cooked, season moderately with salt and
+pepper. If necessary, moisten with broth or water. During the cooking
+the saucepan must be covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper
+greased with fat or oil. The stufato will be ready after about three
+hours' cooking on a low fire.
+
+
+171
+
+SOUTHERN STEW
+
+(Stufato Meridionale)
+
+Put the piece of meat in a saucepan of such a size that it remains
+completely filled, moisten with two cups of water and two of white wine,
+season with salt and pepper and cook for five hours on a low fire.
+
+
+172
+
+STEW MILANAISE
+
+(Stufato alla milanese)
+
+Beat and flatten a good piece of meat and lard with bacon or ham cut in
+small pieces. Season with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Sprinkle
+flour over the meat.
+
+Place in a saucepan a little fat of beef chopped with a middle sized
+onion and brown with a piece of butter. When the onion is browned,
+remove it and place the meat over the melted butter. Brown with melted
+butter. Then fill the saucepan with half water, half red wine, but only
+when the meat is browned from all sides. Cover the saucepan the best you
+can, with cover and greased paper and let it simmer for five or six
+hours on a very low fire.
+
+After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the gravy through a sieve, put
+again on the fire and serve hot.
+
+
+173
+
+FRENCH STEW
+
+(Stufato alla francese)
+
+Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer of thin slices of ham, on
+which place several little cubes also of bacon. In the middle place a
+bunch of parsley, and around this some cloves, half an onion sliced, a
+few carrots in little cubes several young onions, bay-leaf, salt, and
+pepper.
+
+On this bed lay the meat that may be larded with bacon or ham and
+seasoned with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Pour on the meat two
+cups of soup stock or water and one cup of white wine. Cover the
+saucepan hermetically and cook on a very low fire for five hours.
+
+When the stufato is to be served cold, the gravy is to be rubbed
+through a sieve before it gets cold.
+
+     =Note.=--In these and similar dishes we have indicated the use of
+     wine, which is a common ingredient, in small quantities in Italian
+     and French cooking. This, however, can always be dispensed with if
+     its taste is not appreciated, or for any other reason.
+
+
+174
+
+TROUT ALPINE
+
+(Trota all'alpigiana)
+
+These are many ways to prepare this delicious fish, found in abundance
+in the many streams of clear water that run from the Alps and the
+Apennine mountains. Often the trout is cooked in wine, but, of course,
+this part many be changed.
+
+For the =trota all'alpigiana=, so called because it is the favorite dish
+of Piedmont, the trout must be cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then
+salted and left under the action of the salt for about an hour.
+
+Pour in a fish-kettle one quart of white wine to which will be added
+three medium sized onions a few cloves, two sections of garlic and a
+little bunch made of thyme, bay-leaf, basil or mint; finally a piece of
+butter as large as an egg, dipped in flour. Then put the trout in the
+fish-kettle and place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled the
+trout is cooked. Remove the onions and the bunch of greens and serve the
+trout with its gravy and some parsley.
+
+
+175
+
+TROUT LOMBARD
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Clean, scale, wash and wipe the trout. Salt and leave for half an hour.
+Fill with water half a fish-kettle; add half a lemon, two bay-leaves,
+one carrot light or ten berries of pepper, one onion divided into four
+parts, salt and three cloves. When the water is lukewarm, dip in the
+trout. Cook on a moderate fire and serve the trout with parsley, slices
+of lemon and young potatoes boiled. A good fish-sauce ought to accompany
+it.
+
+
+176
+
+FRIED TROUT
+
+(Trota fritta)
+
+Small and young trouts are best for frying. Scale, clean, wash and wipe.
+Then dip in flour and fry like the other fish in oil or in butter. Serve
+with browned parsley and lemon.
+
+
+177
+
+TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES
+
+(Trota alle acciughe)
+
+Scale, clean wash and wipe the trouts. Cut the sides and place to pickle
+with salt, pepper berries, garlic, parsley and onions chopped fine; with
+mushrooms chopped fine with thyme, bay-leaf and mint, all seasoned with
+good olive oil. Rub the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and
+the trout in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve with anchovy
+sauce (No. 17).
+
+
+178
+
+EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE
+
+(Uova trippate)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, shell and cut into disks one third of an
+inch thick.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter in which brown half an onion cut
+into thin slices, to be removed from the butter when browned. Then add
+to the butter two teaspoonfuls of flour, mix but don't allow to brown,
+thin with a cup of hot broth, add salt and pepper and let simmer for ten
+minutes. Put the sliced eggs in the sauce to warm them, stir a little,
+but carefully to avoid breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before
+serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of cream and stir carefully.
+
+
+179
+
+EGGS WITH HAM
+
+(Uova al prosciutto)
+
+Place in a frying pan as many pieces of butter, large like a nut, as
+there are eggs to be cooked. For each piece of butter put a little slice
+of ham and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as the butter is
+melted break an egg on each slice of ham. Let cook for ten minutes on a
+moderate fire.
+
+
+180
+
+EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
+
+(Uova al pomidoro)
+
+Prepare some hard boiled eggs, cut them through the middle lengthwise,
+place in good order upon a plate and pour some good tomato sauce, taking
+care not to cover the upper part of the eggs, which must emerge from the
+sauce.
+
+Instead of the tomato, the eggs may be arranged with a =balsamella=
+sauce (No. 54).
+
+
+181
+
+SCRAMBLED EGGS
+
+(Uova strapazzate)
+
+Break the eggs in a plate, assuring first that they are all fresh.
+
+Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter about as big as an egg. When it is
+melted pour the egg and scramble them with a fork on a low fire.
+
+When the eggs are cooked season moderately with salt and butter. Just
+when you take them away from the fire and before serving add a
+tablespoonful of milk or liquid cream. Serve hot with a little grated
+cheese.
+
+The scrambled eggs can be served with points of asparagus, truffles,
+mushrooms, etc. which are prepared just as if they were to go in an
+omelet.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, SYRUPS
+
+
+182
+
+PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS
+
+(Budino di nocciuole)
+
+Shell half a pound of hazelnuts in warm water and dry them well at the
+sun or on the fire, then grind them very fine, together with sugar, of a
+weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one quart of milk on the fire,
+and when it begins to boil, put two third lb. lady fingers or macaroons
+crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding a small piece of
+butter. Rub everything through a sieve and put back on the fire with the
+nuts to dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs, first the
+yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a mold greased with butter and
+sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not be all full.
+Bake in the oven and serve cold.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten persons.
+
+
+183
+
+CRISP BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti croccanti)
+
+  One pound of flour.
+  Half a pound granulated sugar.
+  1/4 lb. sweet almonds, whole and shelled, mixed to a few pine-seeds.
+  A piece of butter, one and a half ounce.
+  A pinch of anise-seeds.
+  Five eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Leave back the almonds and pine-seeds to add them afterward, and mix
+everything with four eggs, so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to
+make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half an inch thick and as
+large as a hand, place them in a receptacle greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs. Bake in the
+oven, but only as much as will still permit cutting the cakes into
+slices, which you will do the day after, as the crust will then be
+softened. Put the slices back in the oven, so that they will be toasted
+on both sides and you will have the crisp biscuits.
+
+
+184
+
+SOFT BISCUITS
+
+(Biscotti teneri)
+
+For these biscuits it would be necessary to have a tin box about four
+inches wide and a little less long than the oven used. In this way the
+biscuits will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little more than
+half an inch, they will be of the right proportion. The ingredients
+needed are:
+
+  Flour, about two ounces.
+  Potato meal, a little less.
+  Sugar, four ounces (1/4 lb.)
+  Sweet almonds 1-1/2 ounce.
+  Candied orange or angelica, one ounce.
+  Fruit preserve, one ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+
+Skin the almonds, cut them in half lengthwise and dry in the sun or at
+the fire. Pastry cooks usually leave them with the skin but it is much
+preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the candied fruits and the
+preserve.
+
+Stir for a long while, about half an hour the sugar in the egg-yolks and
+a little flour then add the white of the eggs well beaten and when every
+thing is well beaten add the flour, letting it fall from a sieve. Mix
+slowly and scatter on the mixing the almonds and the cubes of candied
+and preserved fruit. Grease and sprinkle the tin box with flour. Bake in
+the oven and cut the biscuits the day after. If desired these can also
+be roasted on both sides.
+
+
+185
+
+BISCUITS SULTAN
+
+(Biscotto alla sultana)
+
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces.
+  Flour, four ounces.
+  Potato meal, two ounces.
+  Currants, three ounces.
+  Candied fruits, one ounce.
+  Five eggs.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+  Two tablespoonfuls of brandy.
+
+Put first on the fire the currants and the candied fruits cut in very
+little cubes with as much brandy or cognac as is necessary to cover
+them: when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn out of the fire
+until the liquor is all consumed: then remove the currants and candy and
+let them dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour the sugar
+with the egg-yolks and the taste of lemon peel. Beat well the white of
+the eggs and pour them on the sugar and yolks. Add the flour and potato
+meal letting them fall from a sieve and stir slowly until everything is
+well mixed together. Add the currants and the pieces of candied fruits
+and pour the mixing in a smooth mold or in a high and round cake-dish.
+Grease the mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar
+or flour. Put at once in the oven to avoid that the currants and the
+candied fruits fall in the oven.
+
+
+186
+
+MARGHERITA CAKE
+
+(Pasta Margherita)
+
+  Potato meal, three ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Lemon juice.
+
+Beat well the egg-yolks with the sugar, add the potato meal and the
+lemon juice and stir everything for half an hour. Finally beat well the
+whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually but slowly. Pour the
+mixture in a smooth and round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled
+with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven.
+
+Remove from the mold when cold and dust with powdered sugar and vanilla.
+
+
+187
+
+MANTUA TART
+
+(Torta Mantovana)
+
+  Flour, six ounces.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Butter, five ounces.
+  Sweet almonds and pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  One whole egg.
+  Four egg-yolks.
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First work well with a ladle the eggs with the sugar, then pour the
+flour little by little, still stirring, and finally the butter,
+previously melted in a double steamer (bain-marie). Put the mixture in a
+pie-dish greased with butter and sprinkled with flour or bread crumbs
+ground. On top put the almonds and the pine-seeds. Cut the latter in
+half and cut the almonds, previously skinned in warm water, each in
+eight or ten pieces. This tart must not be thicker than one inch, so
+that it can dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot.
+
+Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold.
+
+
+188
+
+CURLY TART
+
+(Torta ricciolina)
+
+  Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones, four ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, six ounces,
+  Candied fruits or angelica, 2-1/2 ounces,
+  Butter, two ounces,
+  Lemon peel.
+
+Mix two eggs with flour, flatten the paste to a thin sheet on a bread
+board and cut into thin noodles. In a corner of the bread board make a
+heap of the almonds with the sugar, the candied fruit cut in pieces and
+the grated lemon peel. All this cut and crush so as to reduce the
+mixture in little pieces. Then take a pie-dish and without greasing it,
+spread a layer of noodles on the bottom, then pour part of the mixture,
+then another layer of noodles and continue until there remains no more
+material, trying to have the tart at least one inch thick. When it is so
+prepared cover with the melted butter, using a brush to apply it evenly.
+
+
+189
+
+ALMOND CAKE
+
+(Bocca di dama)
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Very fine Hungarian flour, five ounces,
+  Sweet almonds with some bitter ones, two ounces,
+  Six whole eggs and three egg yolks,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+After skinning the almonds in warm water and drying them well, grind or
+better pound them well together with a tablespoonful of sugar and mix
+well with the flour. Put the rest of the sugar in a deep dish with the
+egg yolks and the grated lemon peel (just a taste) and stir with a ladle
+for a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the six whites of egg and
+when they have become quite thick mix them with other ingredients
+stirring slowly everything together.
+
+To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin greased evenly with butter and
+sprinkled with powdered sugar and flour.
+
+
+190
+
+CORN MEAL CAKES
+
+(Pasta di farina gialla)
+
+  Corn meal, seven and a half ounces,
+  Wheat flour, five and a half ounces,
+  Granulated sugar, five and a half ounces,
+  Butter, three and a half ounces,
+  Lard, two ounces,
+  A pinch of anise seed,
+  One egg.
+
+Mix together the corn meal, the flour and the anise seed and knead with
+the butter, the lard and the egg that quantity that you can, forming a
+loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to be kneaded with water
+forming another loaf. Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not
+much because the dough must remain soft. Flatten with the rolling pin
+until it becomes one quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle with flour, and
+cut in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps.
+
+Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with flour, glaze with the egg,
+bake and dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+191
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Biscotto)
+
+  Six eggs,
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces,
+  Flour, four ounces,
+  Potato meal, two ounces,
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the eggs with the sugar and
+a tablespoonful only of the flour and meal, using a ladle. Beat the
+whites of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly with the first
+mixture and when they are well incorporated pour over from a sieve the
+flour and the potato meal, previously dried in the sun or on the fire.
+
+Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about one inch and a half thick,
+previously greasing the tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered
+sugar mixed with flour.
+
+In these cakes with beaten whites the following method can also be
+followed: mix and stir first the yolks with the sugar, then put the
+flour then, after a good kneading, beat the whites until they are firm,
+pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the mixture, then the rest little by
+little.
+
+
+192
+
+CAKE MADELEINE
+
+(Pasta Maddalena)
+
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces,
+  Flour, three ounces,
+  Butter, one ounce,
+  Egg-yolks, four,
+  Whites of eggs, three,
+  A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda,
+  A taste of lemon peel.
+
+First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and when they have become
+whitish, add the flour and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the
+butter, melting or softening it fine if it is hard and finally add the
+whites when they are well beaten. The flour must be previously dried in
+the sun or on the fire.
+
+This cake may be given different shapes, but keep it always thin and in
+little volume. It can be put in little molds greased with butter and
+sprinkled with flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it not more than
+half an inch thick, and cutting it after baking in the shape of diamonds
+and dusting with powdered sugar.
+
+
+193
+
+ALMOND CRISP-TART
+
+(Croccante)
+
+  Sweet almonds, four and a half ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, three and a half ounces.
+
+Skin the almonds, divide the two parts and cut each part into small
+pieces. Put these almonds so cut at the fire and dry them until they
+take a yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put the sugar on the
+fire in a saucepan and, when it is perfectly melted, pour the almonds
+hot and already slightly browned. Now lower the fire and be careful not
+to allow the compound to be overdone. The precise point is known when
+the mixture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little by little in a
+cold mold, previously greased with butter or oil. Press with a lemon
+against the walls of the mold, making the mixture as thin as possible.
+Remove from the mold when perfectly cooled and, if it is difficult to do
+so, dip the mold in boiling water.
+
+The almonds can also be dried in the sun and chopped fine, adding a
+small piece of butter when they are in the sugar.
+
+
+194
+
+WAFER BISCUITS
+
+(Cialdoni)
+
+Put in a kettle:
+
+  Flour, three ounces.
+  Brown sugar, one ounce.
+  Lard virgin, half an ounce.
+  Cold water, seven tablespoonfuls.
+
+First dilute the flour and the sugar in the water, then add the lard.
+
+Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an appropriated iron for
+flattened wafers. When it is quite hot open it and place each time half
+a tablespoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press well. Pass over
+the fire on both sides, trim all around with a knife and open the iron
+when you see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it from one side of
+the iron and hot as it is roll it on the iron itself or on a napkin
+using a little stick. This operation must be made with great rapidity
+because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot be rolled.
+
+Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, grease it from time to
+time, and if they are not firm enough, add a little flour.
+
+These wafer-biscuits are generally served with whipped cream.
+
+
+195
+
+QUINCE CAKE
+
+(Cotognata)
+
+The ingredients are about six pounds of quinces and four pounds of
+granulated sugar.
+
+Put on the fire the apples covered with water, and when they begin to
+crack remove them, skin and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the
+latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the fire with the sugar and
+stir continually in order that it may not attack to the bottom of the
+kettle. It will be enough to boil for seven or eight minutes and remove
+when it begins to form pieces when lifted with the ladle.
+
+Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread it on a board to the
+thickness of about a silver dollar and dry it in the sun covered with
+cheese cloth to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut it in the form
+of chocolate tablets and remove each piece from the board passing the
+blade of a knife underneath.
+
+If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about three and a half pounds of
+granulated sugar with two tablespoonfuls of water and when the sugar has
+boiled enough to "make the thread" smear every one of the little quince
+cakes with it. If the sugar becomes too hard during the operation put it
+back on the fire with a little water and make it boil again. When the
+sugar is dry on one side and on the edge, smear the other side.
+
+
+196
+
+PORTUGUESE CAKE
+
+(Focaccia alla Portoghese)
+
+  Sweet almonds, five ounces.
+  Granulated sugar, five ounces.
+  Potato meal, one and a half ounce.
+  Three eggs.
+  One big orange or two small.
+
+First mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, then add the flour, then
+the almonds skinned and chopped fine, then the orange juice (through a
+colander) then a taste of orange peel. Finally add to the mixture the
+whites of the eggs well beaten. Put in a paper mold greased evenly with
+butter, with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a very moderately
+hot oven. After baked, cover with a white glaze or frost, made with
+powdered sugar, lemon juice and the white of eggs.
+
+
+197
+
+MACAROONS
+
+(Amaretti)
+
+I
+
+  Granulated sugar, nine ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three and a half ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, half of the above quantity.
+  Whites of egg, two.
+
+Skin and dry the almonds, then chop them very fine. Mix the sugar and
+the whites of egg and stir for about half an hour, then add the almonds
+to form a rather hard paste. Of this make little balls, as large as a
+small walnut. If the paste is too soft add a little butter, if too hard
+add a little white of egg, this time beaten. Were it desired to give the
+macaroons a brownish color, mix with the paste a little burnt sugar.
+
+As you form the little ball, that you will flatten to the thickness of
+one third of an inch, put them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with half flour and half
+powdered sugar. Dispose them at a certain distance from one another as
+they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty inside.
+
+Bake in an oven moderately hot.
+
+II
+
+  Powdered sugar, ten and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Bitter almonds, one ounce.
+  Two whites of egg.
+
+Skin the almonds and dry them in the sun or on the fire, then chop and
+grind very fine with one white of egg poured in various times. When this
+is done, put half of the sugar, stirring and kneading with your hand.
+Then pour everything in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of the
+other white of egg, then the other half of the sugar and finally the
+other half of the white.
+
+In this way an homogenous mixture will be obtained of the right
+firmness. Shake into a kind of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal,
+one third of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with moistened
+fingers and make little balls as large as a walnut. Flatten them to the
+thickness of a third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said above,
+but dust with powdered sugar before putting in a hot oven.
+
+With this dose about thirty macarons can be obtained.
+
+
+198
+
+FARINA CAKES
+
+(Pasticcini di semolino)
+
+  Farina, six and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Pine-seeds, two ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Four eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and when it begins to thicken pour the
+pine-seeds, previously chopped fine and pounded with the sugar, then the
+butter and the rest, less the eggs which must be put in last when the
+mixture has completely cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little
+molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, and bake.
+
+
+199
+
+RICE TART
+
+(Torta di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with four bitter ones, three and a half ounces.
+  Candied cedar (angelica), one ounce.
+  Three whole eggs.
+  Five egg-yolks.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind or pound them with two tablespoonfuls of the
+sugar.
+
+Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. Cook the rice in the milk
+until it is quite firm, put in all the ingredients except the eggs,
+which are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire mixture in a
+baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
+fine, harden in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into diamonds.
+When serving dust with powdered sugar.
+
+
+200
+
+FARINA TART
+
+(Torta di semolino)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Farina finely ground, four and a half ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with three bitter, three and a half ounces.
+  Butter, a small piece.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Skin the almonds in warm water and ground or pound very fine with all
+the sugar, to be mixed one tablespoonful at a time.
+
+Cook the farina in the milk and before removing from the fire add the
+butter and the almonds, which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the
+sugar. Then put the pinch of salt and wait until it becomes lukewarm to
+add the eggs that are to be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in
+a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprinkled with bread crumbs and
+of such a size that the tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put
+it in the oven, remove from the mold when cold and serve whole or cut
+into sections.
+
+
+201
+
+PUDDING OF RICE MEAL
+
+(Budino di farina di riso)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Rice meal, seven ounces.
+  Sugar, four and a half ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Taste of vanilla.
+
+First dissolve the rice meal in half a pint of the milk when cold, and
+pour it in the rest of the milk when it is boiling. This is done to
+prevent the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked add the sugar,
+the butter and the salt. Remove from the fire and when it is lukewarm
+mix the eggs (beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake the pudding
+like all the others and serve warm.
+
+
+202
+
+BREAD PUDDING
+
+(Budino di pane)
+
+  Soft bread crumb, five ounces.
+  Butter, three and a half ounces.
+  Four eggs.
+  Taste of lemon peel.
+  A pinch of salt.
+
+Cut the bread crumb into pieces and soak in cold milk. Then rub though a
+sieve. Melt the butter in a double boiler (in a vessel immersed in
+boiling water) and mix with the eggs until butter and eggs are
+incorporated to each other. Add the bread crumb and the sugar and mix
+well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with butter and sprinkled with
+bread crumb ground fine and bake like other puddings.
+
+
+203
+
+POTATO PUDDING
+
+(Budino di patate)
+
+  Potatoes, big and mealy, one and a half lb.
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Butter, one and a half ounces.
+  Flour, a tablespoonful.
+  Milk, half a pint.
+  Six eggs.
+  A pinch of salt.
+  Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel.
+
+Boil or steam the potatoes, skin and rub through a sieve. Place them
+back again on the fire with the butter, the flour and the milk, all
+poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, then add the
+sugar, the salt and the cinnamon or lemon peel (just a taste) and mix
+everything together well. Remove from the fire and, when the mixture is
+lukewarm or cold add the eggs, first the yolks, then the whites beaten.
+
+Bake like all other puddings and serve hot.
+
+
+204
+
+LEMON PUDDING
+
+(Budino di limone)
+
+  One big lemon.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones, six ounces.
+  Six eggs.
+
+Cook the lemon in water, for which two hours will be enough. Remove dry
+and rub through a sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because if
+it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water until it has lost
+that unpleasant taste. Add the sugar, the almonds skinned and ground
+very fine and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and
+add them to the mixture that will then be put in a mold and baked like
+all other puddings.
+
+
+205
+
+PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS
+
+(Budino di mandorle tostate)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, three and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, two ounces.
+  Lady-finger biscuits, two ounces.
+  Three eggs.
+
+First prepare the almonds, that is to say skin them in warm water and
+toast them on the fire over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very
+fine. Boil the sugar and the lady-fingers, broken in little pieces in
+the milk, mixing well. After half an hour of boiling, keeping always
+stirred, rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the toasted and
+ground almonds. When it is cold add the beaten eggs, pour it in a smooth
+mold, whose bottom will be covered with a film of liquified sugar and
+cook in a double boiler, that is to say put the mold well closed in a
+kettle full of boiling water.
+
+When cooked let it cool and place in ice-box before serving.
+
+
+206
+
+CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER
+
+(Croccante a bagno maria)
+
+  Sugar, five and a half ounces.
+  Sweet almonds, three ounces.
+  Egg-yolks, five.
+  Milk, one pint.
+
+Skin the almonds and chop them in little pieces about as big as a grain
+of wheat. Put on the fire two thirds of the sugar and when it is all
+melted pour the almonds and stir continually with the ladle until they
+have taken the color of cinnamon. Then put them in a tin greased with
+butter and when they are cold, pound them very fine with the remaining
+third of sugar.
+
+Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and pour the mixture in a mold
+with a hole in the middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the mold
+in a double boiler so that it will be cooked by steam.
+
+
+206
+
+STUFFED PEACHES
+
+(Pesche ripiene)
+
+  Six big peaches not very ripe.
+  Four or five lady-finger biscuits.
+  Granulated sugar, three ounces.
+  Two ounces sweet almonds with three peach kernels.
+  Candied fruit (angelica) half an ounce.
+
+Cut the peaches in two parts, remove the stones and enlarge somewhat the
+cavity where they were with the point of a knife. Mix the peach pulp
+that you extract with the almonds, already skinned, and grind the pulp
+and almonds very fine together with two ounces of the sugar. To this
+mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed and the candied fruits. Cut in very
+small cubes. This will be the stuffing with which you will fill the
+cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These you will place in a row in
+a baking tin, with the stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of sugar
+and bake in oven with a moderate fire.
+
+
+207
+
+MILK GNOCCHI
+
+(Gnocchi di latte)
+
+  One quart of milk.
+  Sugar, nine ounces.
+  Starch in powder, four ounces.
+  Eight yolks of eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Mix everything together as you would do for a cream and put on the fire
+in a saucepan, continually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture has
+become hard keep it a few moments more on the fire and then pour it in a
+plate to make it about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds when
+it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the other with symmetry in a
+baking tin or in a fireproof glass plate, with some little pieces of
+butter in between and brown them a little in the oven. Serve hot.
+
+
+208
+
+SABAYON
+
+(Zabaione)
+
+  Yolks of three eggs.
+  Granulated sugar, two ounces.
+  Marsala or sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls.
+  A dash of cinnamon.
+
+First stir with the ladle the yolks and the sugar until they become
+almost white, then add the wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan
+in another one containing hot water and beat until the sugar is melted
+and the egg begins to thicken.
+
+
+SYRUPS
+
+(Sciroppi)
+
+The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with ice water are refreshing
+and pleasant beverages, greatly appreciated during the summer months. It
+is well, however, not to drink them until the digestion is completed,
+because they may disturb it, on account of the sugar that they contain.
+
+
+209
+
+RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di ribes)
+
+Remove the stems from the bunches of gooseberry and place them in an
+earthen vase, to be kept in a cool place. When it has begun to ferment
+(which may happen after three or four days) sink the surface film and
+stir with a ladle twice a day, continuing this operation until it has
+stopped raising. Then put in a cheese cloth, letting the juice come out
+through pressing with the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through
+a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you obtain a limpid
+liquid. Then put it on the fire and when it begins to boil pour in it
+granulated sugar and citric acid in the following proportions:
+
+  Liquid, six pounds.
+  Sugar, eight pounds.
+  Citric acid, one ounce.
+
+That is to say for each =three= parts of the liquid, add =four= parts of
+sugar, and =one= ounce of citric acid for =eight= pounds of sugar mixed
+with =six= pounds of liquid.
+
+Stir continually with the ladle so that the sugar does not stick to the
+bottom, taste it to add some more citric acid if you judge it necessary,
+then let it cool and place in bottles to be sealed.
+
+When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a tumbler less than half an
+inch of syrup for a tumblerful of ice water.
+
+
+210
+
+RASPBERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di lampone)
+
+This is prepared like the other explained above but, since this fruit
+contains less gluten than the gooseberry the period of fermentation will
+be briefer. The large quantity of sugar used in these syrups is
+necessary for their conservation and the citric acid is used to correct
+the excessive sweetness.
+
+
+211
+
+LEMON SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di limone)
+
+  Three big lemons.
+  One and a half pound of sugar.
+  A tumbler of water.
+
+Skin the lemons, removing the internal pulp without squeezing it and
+taking off all seeds.
+
+Put the water on the fire with the skin of one of the lemons cut in a
+thin ribbon like strip with a small knife. When the water is near
+boiling put in the sugar then remove the lemon skin and immerse the pulp
+of the three lemons. Boil until the syrup is condensed and cooked right,
+which is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and the color of
+white wine that it acquires. Preserve in a bottle, and when needed,
+dilute in a tumbler of ice water. A small quantity will make a
+delightful beverage.
+
+
+212
+
+HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP
+
+(Sciroppo di amarena)
+
+Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be of the sour kind but, as
+said, they must not be unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into
+a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon. The fermentation will happen
+after 48 hours and as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them from
+time to time. Then press them to extract the juice, with a pressing
+machine if you have one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few at a
+time in cheese cloth.--When the liquid has rested for a while, filter it
+until it becomes quite clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the
+fire in the following proportion and with the piece of cinnamon that was
+already immersed in the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen
+pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, or three parts of liquid
+to four of sugar and the citric acid as in the above proportion.
+
+Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid wait until the liquid is
+quite hot, just before boiling. Then stir continually. The boiling must
+be brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incorporate the sugar
+in the liquid.
+
+When removing the syrup from the fire, put it in an earthen vase and
+bottle when quite cold. Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place.
+
+
+213
+
+ORGEAT
+
+(Orzata)
+
+  Sweet almonds with 10 or 12 bitter ones, seven ounces.
+  Water, one and half pounds.
+  Granulated sugar, two pounds.
+
+Skin the almonds and grind them very fine, or better pound them in a
+mortar, moistening from time to time with orange flower water, of which
+you will use about two tablespoonfuls.
+
+When the almonds have been reduced to a paste, dissolve the latter in
+one third of the water and filter the juice through a cheese cloth,
+squeezing hard. Put the paste, back in the grinder or in the mortar,
+grind or pound again, then filter again with another third of the water.
+Repeat the same operation for a third time, then put on the fire the
+liquid so obtained and just before boiling put the sugar, mix, stir and
+boil for about twenty minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a
+cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the thick liquid may be
+diluted in water, half an inch for a whole tumbler of iced water.
+
+
+
+
+PRESERVES
+
+214
+
+APRICOT MARMALADE
+
+(Conserva di albicocche)
+
+Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to believe that jam or
+marmalade can be obtained with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones,
+put them on the fire without water and while they boil, stir with a
+ladle to reduce them to pulp. When they have boiled for about half an
+hour, rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of the fruit from
+the skins that are to be thrown away, then put them back on the fire
+with granulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, that is to say
+eight pounds of sugar for ten pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with
+the ladle until the mixture acquires the firmness of marmalade, which
+will be known by putting from time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and
+seeing that it flows slowly.
+
+When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, and then put in vases
+well covered and with a film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in
+alcohol, so that the air may not pass in.
+
+
+215
+
+PRESERVE OF QUINCE
+
+(Conserva di cotogne soda)
+
+The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with the core removed, and
+granulated sugar, in the proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five
+tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a half quinces for one
+part of sugar.
+
+Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass of water, boil a
+little, then remove from the fire and put aside.
+
+Cut the quinces--peeled and coreless--in very thin slices and put them
+on the fire with a glass of water, supposing the quantity to be about
+two pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while with the ladle,
+trying to break the slices and reduce them to a paste. When the quinces
+are made tender through cooking, pour in the thick syrup of sugar
+already prepared, mix and stir and let the mixture boil with the cover
+removed until the preserve is ready, which will be known when it begins
+to fall like shreds when taken up with the ladle.
+
+Let it cool and put in well covered jars.
+
+
+
+
+ICES
+
+(Gelati)
+
+Although it is in America that there is a greater consumption of ice
+cream, it is in Italy that it was first made, and in various European
+capitals it is the Italian =gelatiere= who prepares the frozen delicacy.
+A few Italian recipes of =gelati= will then be acceptable, we believe,
+as a conclusion to this little work.
+
+
+216
+
+BISCUIT
+
+(Pezzo in gelo)
+
+Make a cream with:
+
+  Water, five ounces.
+  Sugar, two ounces.
+  The yolks of four eggs.
+  A taste of vanilla.
+
+Put it on the fire stirring continually and when it begins to stick to
+the ladle remove from the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about
+five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in a mold and pack in salt
+and ice.
+
+Keep in ice for about three hours.
+
+This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight persons.
+
+
+217
+
+LEMON ICE
+
+(Gelato di limone)
+
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, a pint.
+  Lemons, three (good sized).
+
+Boil the sugar in the water, with some little pieces of lemon peel, for
+about ten minutes, in an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold,
+squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the mixture to regulate the
+degree of acidity. Then strain and put in the freezer packed with salt
+and ice.
+
+
+218
+
+STRAWBERRY ICE
+
+(Gelato di fragola)
+
+  Ripe strawberries, 3/4 lb.
+  Granulated sugar, 3/4 lb.
+  Water, one pint.
+  A big lemon.
+  An orange.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in an uncovered kettle. Rub
+through a sieve the strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the
+orange: add the syrup after straining, mix everything and pour the
+mixture in the freezer.
+
+
+219
+
+ORANGE ICE
+
+(Gelato di aranci)
+
+  Four big oranges.
+  One lemon.
+  One pint of water.
+  Sugar, 3/4 lb.
+
+Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain the juice.
+
+Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, put in the juice when cold,
+strain again and put in the freezer.
+
+
+220
+
+PISTACHE ICE CREAM
+
+(Gelato di pistacchi)
+
+  Milk, one quart.
+  Sugar, six ounces.
+  Pistaches, two ounces.
+
+Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind them very fine with a
+tablespoonful of the sugar, then put in a saucepan with the yolks and
+the sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk and put the mixture
+on the fire stirring with the ladle and when it is condensed like cream,
+let it cool and put in the freezer.
+
+
+221
+
+TUTTI FRUTTI
+
+To make this ice a special ice cream mold is necessary, or a tin
+receptacle that can be closed hermetically.
+
+Take several varieties of fruits of the season, ripe and of good
+quality, that is to say, strawberries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big
+peach, a good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, skin and
+remove stones and cores of all these fruits. Then cut them into very
+thin slices, throwing away the cores and stones.
+
+When the fruit is prepared in this manner, weigh it, and sprinkle over
+one fifth of its weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one lemon.
+Mix everything and let the mixture rest for half an hour.
+
+Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold that is to be filled with
+the fruit pressed together, close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it
+for two hours or a little less.
+
+This is not the =tutti frutti= ice cream as is known in America, but a
+=macedoine= of fruits, that comes very pleasant to the taste in the
+summer months.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES
+
+                                            Page
+
+  African hen, 143                           103
+
+  Almond, cake, 189                          129
+    crisp cake, 193                          133
+    (roasted) pudding, 205                   143
+
+  Anchovy sauce, 14                           16
+
+  Apricot marmelade, 214                     151
+
+  Artichokes, with butter, 31                27
+    fried, 28                                 25
+    in mold, 96                               73
+    steamed, 29                               26
+    stewed, 30                                27
+    stuffed, 105                              78
+    stuffed with meat, 106                    79
+    with sauce, 104                           78
+
+  Asparagus, 114                              85
+
+
+  Balsamella, sauce, 59                       46
+
+  Bean soup, 7                                 9
+
+  Birds, 132                                  95
+
+  Biscuit, 191                               131
+
+  Biscuit (ice), 216                         153
+
+  Biscuit, crisp, 183                        124
+    soft, 184                                125
+    sultan, 185                              126
+    wafer, 194                               134
+
+  Blackberry syrup, 212                      149
+
+  Bread soup, 3                                7
+
+  Breast of Veal stuffed, 80                  62
+
+  Brittle (see crisp cake)
+
+  Broth, 1                                     5
+
+  Brown stock, 13                             15
+
+
+  Cabbage, stuffed, 112                       83
+
+  Cake, almond, 189                          129
+    corn meal, 190                           130
+    crisp, 206                               144
+    Madeleine, 192                           132
+    Margherita, 186                          127
+    portugaise, 196                          136
+    quince, 195                              135
+
+  Cakes, farina, 198                         138
+
+  Caper Sauce, 57                             45
+
+  Cappelletti, soup, 2                         6
+
+  Cauliflower, in mold, 95                    72
+    with balsamella, 111                      83
+
+  Celery, au jus, 166                        116
+    dressing 103                              77
+    fried, 168                               117
+    puree, 169                               117
+    sauce for, 167                           116
+    with butter, 165                         115
+
+  Chicken alla cacciatora, 35                 30
+    boned and stuffed, 40                     33
+    breasts saute, 45                         37
+    fried, 34                                 29
+    saute, 142                               102
+    stuffed, 139                             100
+    stuffing, 64                              51
+    with ham, 141                            102
+    with egg sauce, 44                        37
+    with sausages, 43                         36
+    with sherry, 42                           36
+    with tomatoes, 41                         35
+    with sauce piquante, 140                 101
+
+  Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123               90-91
+    croquettes, 125                           91
+    fried, 124                                91
+
+  Corn meal, cake, 190                       130
+    pie, 37                                   31
+    with sausages, 36                         30
+
+  Crisp cake in double boiler, 206           144
+
+  Croquettes, fried, 67                       53
+
+  Curly tart, 188                            129
+
+  Currant, syrup, 209                        146
+
+  Cutlets, chopped meat, 74                   58
+    veal, 75                                  58
+    stewed, 73                                57
+    stuffed, 76, 138                       59-99
+
+
+  Dog fish, fried, 126                        92
+    stewed, 127                               92
+
+  Duck, tame, 144                            104
+    wild, 46                                  38
+
+
+  Eels, stewed, 118                           88
+    with peas, 119                            88
+
+  Eggs, scrambled, 181                       123
+    with ham, 179                            122
+    with onion sauce, 178                    122
+    with tomato sauce, 180                   123
+
+  Egg-plants, fried, 100                      75
+    in the oven, 102                          76
+    stewed, 101                               76
+
+
+  Farina, cakes, 198                         138
+    tart, 200                                139
+
+  Fish, with bread crumbs, 115                86
+    cutlets, stewed, 116                      86
+
+  Fry, Roman, 68, 69                       54-55
+
+
+  Gnocchi, 4                                   7
+    milk, 207                                145
+
+
+  Hare, roast, 135                            97
+    stewed, 51                                42
+
+
+  Ices, biscuits, 216                        153
+    lemon, 217                               153
+    orange, 219                              154
+    pistache, 220                            155
+    strawberry, 218                          154
+    tutti frutti, 221                        155
+
+
+  Kidney, broiled, 152                       108
+    fried, 153                               108
+    saute, 71                                 56
+    sliced 151                               107
+    with anchovy, 150                        107
+    omelet, 61                                48
+
+
+  Lamb, leg of, 147                          105
+    omelet, 33                                29
+    shoulder, 79                              61
+    roast, 133                                96
+    with peas, 78                             61
+
+  Lemon, ice, 217                            153
+    pudding, 204                             142
+    syrup, 211                               148
+
+  Lentils, soup, 9                            10
+
+  Liver, loaf, 89                             68
+
+
+  Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20                   20
+    fried with oil, 21                        21
+    au gratin, 19                             19
+    a la Corinna, 18                          18
+    with anchovy sauce, 17                    18
+    with butter and cheese, 15                17
+    with tomato sauce or brown stock, 16      18
+
+  Macaroons, 197                             136
+
+  Madeleine cake, 192                        132
+
+  Mantona tart, 187                           128
+
+  Margherita cake, 186                       127
+
+  Marmelade, apricot, 214                    151
+
+  Meat, Genovese, 86                          65
+    Omelet, 77                                60
+    stuffing, 65                              52
+
+  Milk gnocchi, 207                          145
+
+  Minestrone, 9                               11
+
+  Mushrooms, dried, 99                        74
+    fried, 97                                 73
+    stewed, 98                                74
+
+  Mussels, with egg sauce, 120                89
+    with tomato sauce, 121                    89
+
+  Mutton, cutlets, 84                         54
+    leg of, 72, 134                        57-96
+
+
+  Omelet, curled, 60                          47
+    lamb, 33                                  29
+    veal kidney, 61                           48
+
+  Onions, stewed, 160                        112
+    stuffed, 159                             112
+
+  Orange, ice, 219                           154
+
+  Orgeat, syrup, 213                         150
+
+
+  Panata, 3                                    7
+
+  Paste for frying, 63                        50
+
+  Pavese soup, 10                             11
+
+  Peaches, stuffed, 206                      144
+
+  Peas, with corned beef, 109                 82
+    with ham, 108                             81
+    with onion sauce, 117                     80
+
+  Pigeon, surprise, 137                       98
+    broiled, 148                             106
+    (See Squabs)
+
+  Pistache, ice, 220                         155
+
+  Polenta pie, 37                             31
+    with sausages, 36, 163                30-113
+
+  Polpettone, 77                              60
+
+  Pork liver fried, 66                        53
+    roast, 146                               105
+
+  Portuguese cake, 196                       136
+
+  Pot-roast, 130                              94
+    with garlic, 131                          95
+    larded, 136                               98
+
+  Potato pudding, 203                        141
+
+  Preserve, quince, 215                      151
+
+  Pudding, bread, 202                        141
+    Genovese, 88                              67
+    hazelnuts, 182                           124
+    lemon, 204                               142
+    potato, 203                              141
+    rice meal, 201                           140
+    roasted almonds, 205                     143
+
+  Puff Paste, 62                              48
+
+
+  Quince, cake, 195                          135
+    preserve, 215                            151
+
+
+  Rabbit, stewed, 52                          42
+
+  Raspberry syrup, 210                       148
+
+  Ravioli, 10                                 11
+
+  Rice, cakes, 27                             25
+    meal pudding, 201                        140
+    pancakes, 70                              55
+    pudding with giblets, 87                  66
+    tart, 199                                139
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Risotto Milanaise, 22                       22
+    with chicken giblets, 23                  22
+    with lobster, 25                          23
+    with peas, 24                             23
+    with saffron, 26                          24
+
+  Roast-beef, 128                             93
+
+  Rolls, stuffed, 38                          32
+
+  Roman fry, 68, 69                        54-55
+
+
+  Sabayon, 208                               146
+
+  Salmi of game, 50                           41
+
+  Sauce, anchovy, 13                          15
+    balsamella, 59                            46
+    brown stock, 12                           14
+    caper, 57                                 45
+    for broiled fish, 56                      45
+    green, 53                                 43
+    Genovese, 58                              46
+    tomato, 12                                14
+    white, 54                                 43
+    yellow, 55                                44
+
+  Sausages with corn meal, 163               113
+    with onions, 164                         114
+
+  Soup, bean, 7                                9
+    bread, 7                                   9
+    cappelletti, 2                             6
+    lentils, 8                                10
+    Pavese, 11                                12
+    Queen, 6                                   9
+    stock, 1                                   5
+    vegetables, 5                              8
+
+  Spaghetti, 11-15                         13-17
+    (see _Macaroni_)
+
+  Spinach, side-dish, 113                     84
+
+  Squabs, ragout, 48                          39
+    stewed, 47                                39
+    timbale, 49                               40
+    (See =Pigeons=)
+
+  Squash, fried, 32                           28
+    stuffed, 91                               69
+
+  Steak in the saucepan, 149                 106
+
+  Stewed cutlets, 73                          57
+
+  Strawberry, ice, 218                       154
+
+  String beans in mold, 94                    71
+    saute, 92                                 70
+    with egg sauce, 93                        71
+
+  Stufato, 170                               117
+    French, 173                              119
+    Milanaise, 172                           118
+    Southern, 171                            118
+
+  Stuffing, chicken, 64                       51
+    meat, 65                                  52
+
+  Sugo di carne, 13                           15
+
+  Sweet-breads, 157                           110
+
+  Syrup, hard blackberry, 212                149
+    lemon, 211                               148
+    orgeat, 213                              150
+    raspberry, 210                           148
+    red currant, 209                         146
+
+
+  Tart, curly, 188                           129
+    farina, 200                              139
+    Mantona, 187                             128
+    rice, 199                                139
+
+  Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85                65
+    with spices, 158                         111
+
+  Tomato sauce, 12                            14
+    stuffed, 110                              82
+
+  Tongue, boiled, 154                        108
+    stewed, 156                              109
+    with olives, 155                         109
+
+  Tripe with gravy, 82                        63
+
+  Trout, Alpine, 174                         120
+    fried, 176                               121
+    Lombard, 175                             121
+    with anchovies, 177                      121
+
+  Turkey, 145                                104
+
+  Tutti frutti, ice, 221                     155
+
+
+  Veal, breast, 80                            62
+    cutlets, 75                               58
+    kidney with anchovy, 150                 107
+    liver, 161                               113
+    fried, 162                               113
+    in gravy, 83                              63
+    kidney sliced, 151                       107
+
+  Veal, roast, 129                            94
+    stewed, 39                                32
+    with gravy, 81                            62
+    with tunny, 90                            68
+
+  Vegetable chowder, 10                       11
+    soup, 7                                    8
+
+
+  Wafer biscuits, 194                        134
+
+  Whiting with anchovy sauce, 117             87
+
+
+  Zabaione, 208                              146
+
+  Zucchine, 32                                28
+
+
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+  |Transcriber's Note:                                |
+  |                                                   |
+  |Inconsistencies in spelling between the main body  |
+  |and index have been retained, however typographical|
+  |typographical errors have been corrected in both.  |
+  |in both.                                           |
+  +---------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Italian Cook Book, by Maria Gentile
+
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