initial commit of ebook 3284HEADmain

1 files changed, 18614 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/3284.txt b/3284.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..19ab9d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/3284.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,18614 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by
+John Hanning Speke
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile
+
+Author: John Hanning Speke
+
+Posting Date: January 26, 2009 [EBook #3284]
+Release Date: June, 2002
+[Last updated: December 9, 2011]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Laura Shaffer and J.C. Byers
+
+
+
+
+
+THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE
+
+By John Hanning Speke
+
+
+
+John Hanning Speke, born 1827. Served in the Punjab but left in 1854
+to explore Somaliland. Discovered Lake Tanganyika with Burton, and Lake
+Victoria independently. Was, with Grant, the first European to cross
+equatorial africa. Died 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Editor's Note
+
+
+John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal
+appeared. He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten years of
+service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. Already he had
+conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his ten years were up,
+and on their conclusion he was appointed a member of the expedition
+preparing to start under Sir Richard (then Lieutenant Burton) for the
+Somali country. He was wounded by the Somalis, and returned to England
+on sick leave; the Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it,
+and later, December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton. Then
+it was that the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced to
+one of the inland lakes seems to have struck him.
+
+Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's visit
+to the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza. During this expedition Speke
+reached the most southerly point of the lake, and gave it its present
+name. Speke arrived back in England in the spring of 1859, Burton being
+left behind on account of his illness. The relations between the two had
+become strained, and this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish
+the account of his explorations. He was given the command of another
+expedition which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain
+James Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza
+were indeed the source of the Nile. He met Sir Samuel Baker, to whom
+he gave valuable assistance, and who with his clue discovered the third
+lake, Albert Nyanza.
+
+Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced.
+Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and addressed a
+special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the same year, 1863,
+published his "Journal of the Discovery of the Nile." Opposed in
+his statements by Burton and M'Queen ("The Nile Basin, 1864"), it was
+arranged that he and Burton should meet for a debate, when on the very
+day fixed, Speke accidentally shot himself while out partridge-shooting.
+
+Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that year,
+speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as solving the
+"problem of all ages."
+
+Only two books were published by Speke--the "Journal" of 1863, which
+follows, and its sequel--"What Led to the Discovery of the Source of the
+Nile," which appeared in the year of his death, 1864.
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared
+to me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes
+that came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa.
+If my account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as
+to primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe
+native Africa--Africa in those places where it has not received the
+slightest impulse, whether for good or evil, from European civilisation.
+If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons
+of Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder
+brother Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave
+of both Shem and Japheth; for as they were then, so they appear to be
+now--a strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures. But one thing
+must be remembered: Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed
+by communion with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained
+divine laws to regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who
+made them, the Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and
+consequently have no idea of an overruling Providence or a future
+state; they therefore trust to luck and to charms, and think only of
+self-preservation in this world. Whatever, then, may be said against
+them for being too avaricious or too destitute of fellow-feeling, should
+rather reflect on ourselves, who have been so much better favoured,
+yet have neglected to teach them, than on those who, whilst they are
+sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a negro is incapable
+of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those few boys who have been
+educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker than our own
+at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of their cunning
+and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are especially
+shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately in
+preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most
+amusing.
+
+With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my
+narrative--(1.) An account of the general geographical features of the
+countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated
+under each as we successively pass through them; (2.) A general view of
+the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce
+the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation;
+(3.) A general view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it,
+(4.) Its Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or
+men freed from slavery.
+
+
+
+
+Geography
+
+The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down,
+having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills
+surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down
+to the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is
+generally uniform in shape--Africa is not. For instance, we find in
+its centre a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika
+Lake, composed chiefly of argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to
+be the Lunae Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus.
+Further, instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down
+from the equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general surface of
+the interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which,
+when rains overflow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the
+flanking rim of hills, find their way to the sea.
+
+
+
+
+Atmospheric Agents
+
+On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track
+of the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that
+the sun crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east,
+towards the regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre
+of the continent, within 5 deg. of the equator, we find the rains much more
+lasting. For instance, at 5 deg. south latitude, for the whole six months
+that the sun is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard
+that the same takes place at 5 deg. north; whilst on the equator, or rather
+a trifle to northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round,
+but most at the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page.
+The winds, though somewhat less steady, are still very determinable.
+With an easterly tending, they deflect north and south, following the
+sun. In the drier season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not
+distressing; and in consequence of this, and the average altitude of the
+plateau, which is 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere
+is very pleasant, as I found from experience; for I walked every inch
+of the journey dressed in thick woollen clothes, and slept every night
+between blankets.
+
+The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of
+the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro.
+
+  1860      Days on     1861        Days on   1862         Days on
+             which                   which                  which
+           rain fell               rain fell              rain fell
+
+   ***       ***         January     19         January       14
+   ***       ***         February    21         February [1]  12
+   ***       ***         March       17         March         21
+   ***       ***         April       17         April         27
+   ***       ***         May          3         May           26
+   ***       ***         June         0         June          20
+   ***       ***         July         1         July          22
+   ***       ***         August       1         August        20
+   ***       ***         September    9         September     18
+   October    2          October     11         October       27
+   November   0          November    17         November      20
+   December  20          December    16         December       6
+
+
+
+
+Flora
+
+From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it
+may readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not
+so bad as people supposed it was; for, when so much moisture falls under
+a vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It
+does so on the equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5 deg. south,
+where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different; and
+the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of
+their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine: and here we
+touch on the misfortune of the country; for the negro is too lazy to do
+so effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a
+strong protecting government. One substantial fact has been established,
+owing to our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre
+of the continent, or from 5 deg. south to 5 deg. north latitude, which is this:
+There exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the
+equator, but decreasing systematically from it; and the reason why this
+great fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as
+that which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply,
+whence issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the
+rainbearing influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line
+is, in fact, the centre of atmospheric motion.
+
+
+
+
+Fauna
+
+In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take
+man--the true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro--not the
+Wahuma. [2] They are well distributed all over these latitudes, but are
+not found anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is
+mostly of the patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are
+agriculturalists; and this difference, I believe, originates solely from
+want of a stable government, to enable them to reap what they produce;
+for where the negro can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating
+grain, he will do it. In the same way as all animals, whether wild or
+tame, require a guide to lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it
+necessary to have chiefs over their villages and little communities,
+who are their referees on all domestic or political questions. They have
+both their district and their village chiefs, but, in the countries we
+are about to travel over, no kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma
+have. The district chief is absolute, though guided in great measure by
+his "grey-beards," who constantly attend his residence, and talk over
+their affairs of state. These commonly concern petty internal matters;
+for they are too selfish and too narrow-minded to care for anything but
+their own private concerns. The grey-beards circulate the orders of the
+chief amongst the village chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply
+with them; and hence all orders are pretty well obeyed.
+
+One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war,
+caused, in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of
+half-brothers, who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight
+continually with one another, and make their chief aim slaves and
+cattle; whilst, in the second instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting
+and reducing their numbers. The government revenues are levied, on
+a very small scale, exclusively for the benefit of the chief and his
+grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of land-tax, the chief has a right
+to drink free from the village brews of pombe (a kind of beer made by
+fermentation), which are made in turn by all the villagers successively.
+In case of an elephant being killed, he also takes a share of the meat,
+and claims one of its tusks as his right; further, all leopard, lion, or
+zebra skins are his by right. On merchandise brought into the country by
+traders, he has a general right to make any exactions he thinks he has
+the power of enforcing, without any regard to justice or a regulated
+tariff. This right is called Hongo, in the plural Mahongo. Another
+source of revenue is in the effects of all people condemned for sorcery,
+who are either burnt, or speared and cast into the jungles, and their
+property seized by the grey-beards for their chief.
+
+As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed
+and disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers; whilst on minor
+thieves a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied.
+Illicit intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed
+according to the value of the woman--for it must be remembered all
+women are property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable
+speculation, the girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries
+her to any one who will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not
+considered a simple matter of buying and selling, but delights in the
+high-sounding title of "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire,
+or beads, are the usual things given for this species of dowry. The
+marriage-knot, however, is never irretrievably tied; for if the wife
+finds a defect in her husband, she can return to her father by refunding
+the dowry; whilst the husband, if he objects to his wife, can claim
+half-price on sending her home again, which is considered fair, because
+as a second-hand article her future value would be diminished by half.
+By this system, it must be observed, polygamy is a source of wealth,
+since a man's means are measured by the number of his progeny; but it
+has other advantages besides the dowry, for the women work more than the
+men do, both in and out of doors; and, in addition to the females, the
+sons work for the household until they marry, and in after life take
+care of their parents in the same way as in the first instance the
+parents took care of them.
+
+Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of
+the family, though in some instances they are put to death. Albinos are
+valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural
+manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A
+large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as
+effeminate; but these are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals,
+who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark.
+Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail both
+before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber
+might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions,
+and are therefore continually either shaving it off altogether, or else
+fashioning it after the most whimsical designs. No people in the world
+are so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or
+agriculturalists. With them, as with the rest of the world, "familiarity
+breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a
+rich or white visitor--and they implore him to stop, that they may keep
+feeding their eyes on his curiosities--they seldom give more than a cow
+or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with provisions.
+
+Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much
+difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For
+instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner
+from the others; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much
+of this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the
+prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments.
+As with the tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in
+use are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect
+one, some the other; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes
+can be determined by the use of any particular weapon: for the bravest
+use the arrow, which is the more dreaded; while the weakest confine
+themselves to the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there
+are no roads in the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go
+upon, not only because the hospitality of the people has been damped
+by frequent communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the
+semi-civilised merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted,
+their cupidity is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten
+them.
+
+Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga),
+who rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They,
+indeed, are a curse to the traveller; for if it suits their inclinations
+to keep him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all
+sorts of calamities--as droughts, famines, or wars--in the event of his
+setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe
+them; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and
+imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial reasons.
+Their implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's
+or antelope's horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also
+called Uganga. Stuck into the ground in front of the village, it is
+supposed to have sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy.
+
+By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover
+anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances have been told of
+its dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief,
+when it be-laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses. So
+imbued are the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that
+they pay the magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored
+for them. They believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct
+them to anything lost; as also that the voice of certain wild animals,
+birds, or beasts, will insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger.
+With the utmost complacency our sable brother builds a dwarf hut in his
+fields, and places some grain on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and
+suffer him to reap the fruits of his labour, and this too they call
+Uganga or church.
+
+These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes
+resort to in place of a "Saviour." They have also many other and more
+horrible devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician,
+if he ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones
+of a fowl which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young child,
+and having laid it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on
+proceeding to battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves
+victory. Another of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a
+chief wishes to make war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician
+to discover a propitious time for commencing. The doctor places a large
+earthen vessel, half full of water, over a fire, and over its mouth
+a grating of sticks, whereon he lays a small child and a fowl side by
+side, and covers them over with a second large earthen vessel, just like
+the first, only inverted, to keep the steam in, when he sets fire below,
+cooks for a certain period of time, and then looks to see if his victims
+are still living or dead--when, should they be dead, the war must be
+deferred, but, otherwise commenced at once.
+
+These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are
+usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of
+a child, to be walked over; while, to prevent any evil approaching their
+dwellings a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when place on
+the track, is considered a specific.
+
+How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems
+marvellous, when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in
+comparison; and judging from the progressive state of the world, one
+is led to suppose that the African must soon either step out from his
+darkness, or be superseded by a being superior to himself. Could a
+government be formed for them like ours in India, they would be saved;
+but without it, I fear there is very little chance; for at present the
+African neither can help himself nor will he be helped about by others,
+because his country is in such a constant state of turmoil he has too
+much anxiety on hand looking out for his food to think of anything
+else. As his fathers ever did, so does he. He works his wife, sells his
+children, enslaves all he can lay hands upon, and, unless when fighting
+for the property of others, contents himself with drinking, singing, and
+dancing like a baboon to drive dull care away. A few only make cotton
+cloth, or work in wood, iron, copper, or salt; their rule being to do
+as little as possible, and to store up nothing beyond the necessities of
+the next season, lest their chiefs or neighbours should covet and take
+it from them.
+
+Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the masters
+become too proud to work, lest they should be thought slaves themselves.
+In consequence of this, the women look after the household work--such as
+brewing, cooking, grinding corn, making pottery and baskets, and taking
+care of the house and the children, besides helping the slaves whilst
+cultivating, or even tending the cattle sometimes.
+
+Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall commence with
+the domestic animals first, to show what the traveller may expect to
+find for his usual support. Cows, after leaving the low lands near the
+coast, are found to be plentiful everywhere, and to produce milk in
+small quantities, from which butter is made. Goats are common all over
+Africa; but sheep are not so plentiful, nor do they show such good
+breeding--being generally lanky, with long fat tails. Fowls, much
+like those in India, are abundant everywhere. A few Muscovy ducks are
+imported, also pigeons and cats. Dogs, like the Indian pariah, are very
+plentiful, only much smaller; and a few donkeys are found in certain
+localities. Now, considering this good supply of meat, whilst all
+tropical plants will grow just as well in central equatorial Africa
+as they do in India, it surprises the traveller there should be any
+famines; yet such is too often the case, and the negro, with these
+bounties within his reach, is sometimes found eating dogs, cats, rats,
+porcupines, snakes, lizards, tortoises, locusts, and white ants, or
+is forced to seek the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck wild herbs,
+fruits, and roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the wild
+elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out
+with their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small
+birds.
+
+The frequency with which collections of villages are found all over the
+countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little scope for the runs
+of wild animals, which are found only in dense jungles, open forests,
+or praires generally speaking, where hills can protect them, and near
+rivers whose marshes produce a thick growth of vegetation to conceal
+them from their most dreaded enemy--man. The prowling, restless
+elephant, for instance, though rarely seen, leaves indications of his
+nocturnal excursions in every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the
+forest-trees. The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in
+every thick jungle. So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in
+dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst without
+much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig.
+
+The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found wherever
+there is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and zebra affect all
+open forests and plains where the grass is not too long; and antelopes,
+of great variety in species and habits, are found wherever man will
+let them alone and they can find water. The lion is, however, rarely
+heard--much more seldom seen. Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly
+inclined. Leopards, less common, are the terror of the villagers. Foxes
+are not numerous, but frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened
+bark. Hares, about half the size of English ones--there are no
+rabbits--are widely spread, but not numerous; porcupines the same. Wild
+cats, and animals of the ferret kind, destroy game. Monkeys of various
+kinds and squirrels harbour in the trees, but are rarely seen. Tortoises
+and snakes, in great variety, crawl over the ground, mostly after the
+rains. Rats and lizards--there are but few mice--are very abundant, and
+feed both in the fields and on the stores of the men.
+
+The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places. The
+guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. Partridges come
+next, but do not afford good sport; and quails are rare. Ducks and snipe
+appear to love Africa less than any other country; and geese and storks
+are only found where water most abounds. Vultures are uncommon; hawks
+and crows much abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of
+every colour and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water
+and by the villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as fresh-water
+shells, are very abundant, though the conchologist would find but little
+variety to repay his labours; and insects, though innumerable, are best
+sought for after the rains have set in. [3]
+
+
+
+
+The Wanguana or Freed Men
+
+The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from slavery; and
+as it is to these singular negroes acting as hired servants that I have
+been chiefly indebted for opening this large section of Africa, a few
+general remarks on their character cannot be out of place here.
+
+Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in childhood with
+the untainted negroes, they retain all the superstitious notions of the
+true aborigines, though somewhat modified, and even corrupted, by that
+acquaintance with the outer world which sharpens their wits.
+
+Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen every
+day in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a few yards
+of common cloth, brass wire, or beads. They would then be taken to the
+Zanzibar market, resold like horses to the highest bidder, and then kept
+in bondage by their new masters, more like children of his family
+than anything else. In this new position they were circumcised to make
+Mussulmans of them, that their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their
+master's cattle, and extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day
+must come when the tenets of Mohammed will be accepted by all men.
+
+The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than he
+ever was in his life before, with this exception, that as a slave he
+feels himself much degraded in the social scale of society, and his
+family ties are all cut off from him--probably his relations have all
+been killed in the war in which he was captured. Still, after the first
+qualms have worn off, we find him much attached to his master, who feeds
+him and finds him in clothes in return for the menial services which
+he performs. In a few years after capture, or when confidence has been
+gained by the attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader
+in ivory, he will intrust him with the charge of his stores, and send
+him all over the interior of the continent to purchase for him both
+slaves and ivory; but should the master die, according to the Mohammedan
+creed the slaves ought to be freed. In Arabia this would be the case;
+but at Zanzibar it more generally happens that the slave is willed to
+his successor.
+
+The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or rather on
+the coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for the slaves, both
+in individual physical strength and in numbers, are so superior to the
+Arab foreigners, that if they chose to rebel, they might send the Arabs
+flying out of the land. It happens, however, that they are spell-bound,
+not knowing their strength any more than domestic animals, and they even
+seem to consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after
+being purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners.
+
+There are many positions into which the slave may get by the course of
+events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the ordinary case of one
+who has been freed by the death of his master, that master having been a
+trader in ivory and slaves in the interior. In such a case, the slave so
+freed in all probability would commence life afresh by taking service
+as a porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise sufficient
+capital to commence trading himself--first in slaves, because they are
+the most easily got, and then in ivory. All his accumulations would then
+go to the Zanzibar market, or else to slavers looking out off the coast.
+Slavery begets slavery. To catch slaves is the first thought of every
+chief in the interior; hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and
+that is the reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men
+of all tribes and tongues on the coast. The ethnologist need only go
+to Zanzibar to become acquainted with all the different tribes to the
+centre of the continent on that side, or to Congo to find the other half
+south of the equator there.
+
+Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are
+especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and ivory.
+All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar Kisuahili; and
+therefore the traveller, if judicious in his selections, could find
+there interpreters to carry him throughout the eastern half of South
+Africa. To the north of the equator the system of language entirely
+changes.
+
+Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although extremely
+powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so. Having no God,
+in the Christian sense of the term, to fear or worship, they have no
+love for truth, honour, or honesty. Controlled by no government, nor yet
+by home ties, they have no reason to think of or look to the future. Any
+venture attracts them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is,
+the better they like it. The life of the sailor is most particularly
+attractive to the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit, that he is
+on an equality with all men when once on the muster-rolls, and then he
+calls all his fellow-Africans "savages." Still the African's peculiarity
+sticks to him: he has gained no permanent good. The association of white
+men and the glitter of money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey
+the jolly Jack Tar, and spends his wages accordingly. If chance brings
+him back again to Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and
+goes into slavery with as much zest as ever.
+
+I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This
+is practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs, on
+circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and Mohammed,
+and perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what a soul means,
+nor do they expect to meet with either reward or punishment in the next
+world, though they are taught to regard animals as clean and unclean,
+and some go through the form of a pilgrimage to Mecca. Indeed the whole
+of their spiritual education goes into oaths and ejaculations--Allah and
+Mohammed being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with
+our soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that the
+freed men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of beings,
+quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that they imagine all
+political matters affect them, and therefore they must have a word in
+every debate. Nevertheless they are seldom wise; and lying being more
+familiar to their constitution than truth-saying, they are for ever
+concocting dodges with the view, which they glory in of successfully
+cheating people. Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery
+amounting to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time,
+without any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn
+friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the moment
+is, that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even though they may
+have calculated on advantages beforehand in the opposite direction. In
+fact, no one can rely upon them even for a moment. Dog wit, or any
+silly remarks, will set them giggling. Any toy will amuse them. Highly
+conceited of their personal appearance, they are for ever cutting their
+hair in different fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown
+away, they will all in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then
+on their loins or spears, peacocking about with it before their admiring
+comrades. Even strange feathers or skins are treated by them in the same
+way.
+
+Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to his
+master in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole of a
+hut, commence scratching his back with it, then stretch and yawn, and
+gradually, in bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the ground on his
+stern, when he drums with his hands on the top of a box until summoned
+to know what he has at heart, when he delivers himself in a peculiar
+manner, laughs and yawns again, and, saying it is time to go, walks off
+in the same way as he came. At other times when he is called, he will
+come sucking away at the spout of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked
+arm-pits with a table-knife, or, perhaps, polishing the plates for
+dinner with his dirty loin-cloth. If sent to market to purchase a
+fowl, he comes back with a cock tied by the legs to the end of a stick,
+swinging and squalling in the most piteous manner. Then, arrived at the
+cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the ground, holds its head between
+his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its throat, and then, raising a
+prayer, cuts its head off.
+
+But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no better.
+If you give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him in case of
+emergencies, he will promise to save it, but forthwith expends it by
+firing it off in the air, and demands more, else he will fear to venture
+amongst the "savages." Suppose you give him a box of bottles to carry,
+or a desk, or anything else that requires great care, and you caution
+him of its contents, the first thing he does is to commence swinging it
+round and round, or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head,
+when he will run off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most
+provoking manner, and thinking no more about it than if it were an old
+stone; even if rain were falling, he would put it in the best place to
+get wet through. Economy, care, or forethought never enters his head;
+the first thing to hand is the right thing for him; and rather then take
+the trouble even to look for his own rope to tie up his bundle, he would
+cut off his master's tent-ropes or steal his comrade's. His greatest
+delight is in the fair sex, and when he can't get them, next comes beer,
+song, and a dance.
+
+Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has contributed
+more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation than any one else.
+Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity, great risibility, but
+no stability--a creature of impulse--a grown child, in short--at first
+sight it seems wonderful how he can be trained to work; for there is now
+law, no home to bind him--he could run away at any moment; and
+presuming on this, he sins, expecting to be forgiven. Great forbearance,
+occasionally tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe,
+the best dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish
+manner, after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for are you
+not a big man who should be above harbouring spite, though for a moment
+you may be angry? Flog me if you like, but don't keep count against me,
+else I shall run away; and what will you do then?"
+
+The language of this people is just as strange as they are themselves.
+It is based on euphony, from which cause it is very complex, the more
+especially so as it requires one to be possessed of a negro's turn of
+mind to appreciate the system, and unravel the secret of its euphonic
+concord. A Kisuahili grammar, written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what
+I mean. There is one peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the
+attention of the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to
+the essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed, means
+man or individual; U, in the same way, means place or locality; and
+Ki prefixed indicates the language. Example:--Wagogo, is the people of
+Gogo; Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is the country of Gogo; and Kigogo,
+the language of Gogo.
+
+The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of native
+words refers to the u, which represents a sound corresponding to that of
+the oo in woo.
+
+
+
+
+
+Journal of the Discovery of The Source of the Nile
+
+
+
+
+Chapter 1. London to Zanzibar, 1859
+
+The design--The Preparations--Departure--The Cape--The Zulu
+Kafirs--Turtle-Turning--Capture of a Slaver--Arrive at Zanzibar--Local
+Politics and News Since Last Visit--Organisation of the Expedition.
+
+My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose of
+establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria N'yanza, which
+I discovered on the 30th July 1858, would eventually prove to be the
+source of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th May 1859,
+the first day after my return to England from my second expedition,
+when, at the invitation of Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his
+house to show him my map for the information of the Royal Geographical
+Society. Sir Roderick, I need only say, at once accepted my views; and,
+knowing my ardent desire to prove to the world, by actual inspection of
+the exit, that the Victoria N'yanza was the source of the Nile, seized
+the enlightened view, that such a discovery should not be lost to the
+glory of England and the Society of which he was President; and said
+to me, "Speke, we must send you there again." I was then officially
+directed, much against my own inclination, to lecture at the Royal
+Geographical Society on the geography of Africa, which I had, as the
+sole surveyor of the second expedition, laid down on our maps. [4] A
+council of the Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what
+projects I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the
+lake with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that
+purpose.
+
+Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which seemed to
+them the natural course to pursue, especially as the Nile was said,
+though nobody believed it, to have been navigated by expeditions sent
+out by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to 3 deg. 22' north latitude. To
+this I objected, as so many had tried it and failed, from reasons which
+had not transpired; and, at the same time, I said that if they would
+give me oe5000 down at once, I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the
+year, March to Kaze again, and make the necessary investigations of the
+Victoria lake. Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the
+river, I also proposed spending three years in the country, looking
+up tributaries, inspecting watersheds, navigating the lake, and making
+collections on all branches of natural history, yet L5000 was thought by
+the Geographical Society too large a sum to expect from the Government;
+so I accepted the half, saying that, whatever the expedition might
+cost, I would make good the rest, as, under any circumstances, I would
+complete what I had begun, or die in the attempt.
+
+My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I might, in
+the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and brass wire, under
+charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and fifty men more, in the
+same way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in the best season for travelling
+(May, June, or July), would be able to push on expeditiously to my
+depots so formed, and thus escape the great disadvantages of travelling
+with a large caravan in a country where no laws prevail to protect one
+against desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who
+would have to go with me, as long as they believed I had property in
+advance, would work up to it willingly, as they would be the gainers
+by doing so; whilst, with nothing before them, they would be always
+endeavouring to thwart my advance, to save them from a trouble which
+their natural laziness would prompt them to escape from.
+
+This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the first;
+for I did not get the L2500 grant of money or appointment to the command
+until fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote to Colonel Rigby, our
+Consul at Zanzibar, to send on the first instalment of property towards
+the interior.
+
+As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very
+graciously gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and
+sword-bayonets attached, and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition. They lent
+me as many surveying instruments as I wanted; and, through Sir George
+Clerk, put at my disposal some rich presents, in gold watches, for the
+chief Arabs who had so generously assisted us in the last expedition.
+Captain Grant, hearing that I was bound on this journey, being an old
+friend and brother sportsman in India, asked me to take him with me,
+and his appointment was settled by Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a
+committee of the Royal Geographical Society, who said it would only be
+"a matter of charity" to allow me a companion.
+
+Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had spent
+many years on the Nile, arrived in England, and gratuitously offered, as
+it would not interfere with his trade, to place boats at Gondokoro,
+and send a party of men up the White River to collect ivory in the
+meanwhile, and eventually to assist me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I
+may add, showed great zeal for geographical exploits, so, as I could not
+get money enough to do all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew
+out a project for him to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river
+(reported to be the larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible,
+ascertain what connection it had with my lake. This being agreed to, I
+did my best, through the medium of Earl de Grey (then President of the
+Royal Geographical Society), to advance him money to carry out this
+desirable object.
+
+The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage to
+Zanzibar. The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of war to
+convey me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not interfere with the
+public interests. This doubtful proviso induced me to apply to Captain
+Playfair, Assistant-Political at Aden, to know what Government vessel
+would be available; and should there be none, to get for me a passage by
+some American trader. The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the
+Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that season,
+as the last American trader was just then leaving for Zanzibar. In this
+dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably lose the travelling season,
+and come in for the droughts and famines. The tide, however, turned in
+my favour a little; for I obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a
+passage in the British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey
+Admiral Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood
+most obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence
+to Zanzibar in one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest
+opportunity.
+
+On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new
+steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at Portsmouth;
+and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, we
+arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July. Here Sir George Grey,
+the Governor of the colony, who took a warm and enlightened interest in
+the cause of the expedition, invited both Grant and myself to reside at
+his house. Sir George had been an old explorer himself--was once wounded
+by savages in Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in the
+Somali country--and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his son,
+and said he hoped I would succeed. Then, thinking how best he could
+serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the expedition
+a sum of L300, for the purpose of buying baggage-mules; and induced
+Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-Chief, to detach ten volunteers
+from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps to accompany me. When this addition
+was made to my force, of twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of
+the station placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we
+all sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of Captain
+A. F. de Horsey--the Admiral himself accompanying us, on one of his
+annual inspections to visit the east coast of Africa and the Mauritius.
+In five days more we touched at East London, and, thence proceeding
+north, made a short stay at Delagoa Bay, where I first became acquainted
+with the Zulu Kafirs, a naked set of negroes, whose national costume
+principally consists in having their hair trussed up like a hoop on the
+top of the head, and an appendage like a thimble, to which they attach
+a mysterious importance. They wear additional ornaments, charms, &c., of
+birds' claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with strings, and
+sometimes an article like a kilt, made of loose strips of skin, or the
+entire skins of vermin strung close together. These things I have merely
+noticed in passing, because I shall hereafter have occasion to allude
+to a migratory people, the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner,
+extend from Lake N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part
+of this same Kafir race, who are themselves supposed to have migrated
+from the regions at present occupied by the Gallas. Next day (the
+28th) we went on to Europa, a small island of coralline, covered with
+salsolacious shrubs, and tenanted only by sea-birds, owls, finches,
+rats, and turtles. Of the last we succeeded in turning three, the
+average weight of each being 360 lb., and we took large numbers of their
+eggs.
+
+We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor, John
+Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the prospects
+of the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so much money to visit
+the interior from that place, his officers were unable to go there.
+One experimental trip only had been accomplished by Mr Soares, who was
+forced to pay the Makua chiefs 120 dollars footing, to reach a small
+hill in view of the sea, about twenty-five miles off.
+
+Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came the
+next day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged, bearing on
+us full sail, but so distant from us that her mast-tops were only just
+visible. As quick as ourselves, she saw who we were and tried to escape
+by retreating. This manoeuvre left no doubt what she was, and the Brisk,
+all full of excitement, gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more
+drew abreast of her. A great commotion ensued on board the slaver. The
+sea-pirates threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes,
+but would not heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a gun was
+fired across her bows. Our boats were then lowered, and in a few minutes
+more the "prize" was taken, by her crew being exchanged for some of our
+men, and we learnt all about her from accurate reports furnished by Mr
+Frere, the Cape Slave Commissioner. Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny
+South," professing to be destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to
+the Manuela, and came slave-hunting in these regions. The slaver's crew
+consisted of a captain, doctor, and several sailors, mostly Spaniards.
+The vessel was well stored with provisions and medicines; but there
+was scarcely enough room in her, though she was said to be only half
+freighted, for the 544 creatures they were transporting. The next
+morning, as we entered Pamoni harbour by an intricate approach to
+the rich little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as she followed us,
+stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to everybody but her
+late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after escaping so often, to
+be taken thus; for his vessel's power of sailing were so good, that, had
+she had the wind in her favour, the Brisk, even with the assistance of
+steam, could not have come up with her. On going on board her, I found
+the slaves to be mostly Wahiyow. A few of them were old women, but
+all the rest children. They had been captured during wars in their own
+country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and kept them
+half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were shipped in dhows
+and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly a week, whilst the
+bargains were in progress, they were kept entirely without food. It was
+no wonder then, every man of the Brisk who first looked upon them did so
+with a feeling of loathing and abhorrence of such a trade. All over the
+vessel, but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying
+in the most disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who had
+sufficient strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing at the salt
+fish they found below, like dogs in a kennel.
+
+On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after passing
+the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar--called Lunguja
+by the aborigines, the Wakhadim--and Unguja by the present Wasuahili.
+
+On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay I went
+off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel Rigby. He was
+delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared
+rooms for our reception, that both Captain Grant and myself might enjoy
+his hospitality until arrangements could be made for our final start
+into the interior. The town, which I had left in so different a
+condition sixteen months before, was in a state of great tranquillity,
+brought about by the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat
+side, and Colonel Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an
+insurrection Sultan Majid's brothers had created with a view of usurping
+his government.
+
+The news of the place was as follows:--In addition to the formerly
+constituted consulates--English, French, and American--a fourth one,
+representing Hamburg, had been created. Dr Roscher, who during my
+absence had made a successful journey to the N'yinyezi N'yassa, or
+Star Lake, was afterwards murdered by some natives in Uhiyow; and
+Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken, another enterprising German,
+was organising an expedition with a view to search for the relics of
+his countryman, and, if possible, complete the project poor Roscher had
+commenced.
+
+Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel Rigby
+had taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those slaves whom our
+Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly keeping, and by fining
+the masters and giving the money to the men to set them up in life. The
+interior of the continent had been greatly disturbed, owing to constant
+war between the natives and Arab ivory merchants. Mguru Mfupi (or
+Short-legs), the chief of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot,
+and Manua Sera (the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira,
+of Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left
+Kaze, was out in the field fighting the Arabs. Recent letters from
+the Arabs in the interior, however, gave hopes of peace being shortly
+restored. Finally, in compliance with my request--and this was the most
+important item of news to myself--Colonel Rigby had sent on, thirteen
+days previously, fifty-six loads of cloth and beads, in charge of two of
+Ramji's men, consigned to Musa at Kaze.
+
+To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty. He received us
+in his usually affable manner; made many trite remarks concerning our
+plans; was surprised, if my only object in view was to see the great
+river running out of the lake, that I did not go by the more direct
+route across the Masai country and Usoga; and then, finding I wished to
+see Karague, as well as to settle many other great points of interest,
+he offered to assist me with all the means in his power.
+
+The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed, our
+preparatory work began in earnest. It consisted in proving the sextants;
+rating the watches; examining the compasses and boiling thermometers;
+making tents and packsaddles; ordering supplies of beads, cloth, and
+brass wire; and collecting servants and porters.
+
+Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain, was
+appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his character for
+honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he had been ordered not
+to go with me when I discovered the Victoria N'yanza. Bombay and his
+brother Mabruki were bound to me of old, and the first to greet me on
+my arrival here; while my old friends the Beluchs begged me to take
+them again. The Hottentots, however, had usurped their place. I was
+afterwards sorry for this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall
+trust to none but natives, as the climate of Africa is too trying to
+foreigners. Colonel Rigby, who had at heart as much as anybody the
+success of the expedition, materially assisted me in accomplishing my
+object--that men accustomed to discipline and a knowledge of English
+honour and honesty should be enlisted, to give confidence to the rest
+of the men; and he allowed me to select from his boat's crew any men I
+could find who had served as men-of-war, and had seen active service in
+India.
+
+For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij, and
+Rahan--all of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew Hindustani--to
+go with me. With this nucleus to start with, I gave orders that they
+should look out for as many Wanguana (freed men--i.e., men emancipated
+from slavery) as they could enlist, to carry loads, or do any other work
+required of them, and to follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until
+our arrival in Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar. Each was
+to receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their work
+was completed.
+
+While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the customs'
+master, was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis (Wanyamuezi porters)
+to carry each a load of cloth, beads, or brass wire to Kaze, as they do
+for the ivory merchants. Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral,
+and to show him some sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in
+a dhow over to Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high
+tide is filled with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered
+with mangrove shrub. In these islets we sought for the animals, knowing
+they were keen to lie wallowing in the mire, and we bagged two. On my
+return to Zanzibar, the Brisk sailed for the Mauritius, but fortune sent
+Grant and myself on a different cruise. Sultan Majid, having heard that
+a slaver was lying at Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith
+with the English, begged me to take command of one his vessels of war
+and run it down. Accordingly, embarking at noon, as soon as the vessel
+could be got ready, we lay-to that night at Tombat, with a view of
+surprising the slaver next morning; but next day, on our arrival at
+Pangani, we heard that she had merely put in to provision there three
+days before, and had let immediately afterwards. As I had come so far, I
+thought we might go ashore and look at the town, which was found greatly
+improved since I last saw it, by the addition of several coralline
+houses and a dockyard. The natives were building a dhow with Lindi and
+Madagascar timber. On going ashore, I might add, we were stranded on the
+sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped by the increasing surf on
+the bar of the river; but this was a trifle; all we thought of was to
+return to Zanzibar, and hurry on our preparations there. This, however,
+was not so easy: the sea current was running north, and the wind was too
+light to propel our vessel against it; so, after trying in vain to make
+way in her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow, took to a boat, after
+giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a letter, to say we
+left the vessel against his advice.
+
+We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as they
+would, the current was so strong that we feared, if we persisted, we
+should be drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so, changing our line, we
+bore into the little coralline island, Maziwa, where, after riding over
+some ugly coral surfs, we put in for the night. There we found, to our
+relief, some fisherman, who gave us fish for our dinner, and directions
+how to proceed.
+
+Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our good luck.
+After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an intricate channel,
+through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar in the night, and found
+that the vessel had got in before us.
+
+Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map attached
+to it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It was written
+by Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the Ancient Hindus. As it
+exemplifies, to a certain extent, the supposition I formerly arrived at
+concerning the Mountains of the Moon being associated with the country
+of the Moon, I would fain draw the attention of the reader of my travels
+to the volume of the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published. [5]
+It is remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile
+Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of the
+Victoria N'yanza. This, I think, shows clearly, that the ancient Hindus
+must have had some kind of communication with both the northern and
+southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought ten men,
+four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars, which I had to pay;
+Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought twenty-six more, all freed
+men; while the Sultan Majid, at the suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me
+thirty-four men more, who were all raw labourers taken from his gardens.
+It was my intention to have taken one hundred of this description of
+men throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found in
+Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in Unyamuezi, the
+land of the Moon, from the large establishments of the Arab merchants
+residing there. The payment of these men's wages for the first year, as
+well as the terms of the agreement made with them, by the kind consent
+of Colonel Rigby were now entered in the Consular Office books, as a
+security to both parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way.
+Any one who saw the grateful avidity with which they took the money,
+and the warmth with which they pledged themselves to serve me faithfully
+through all dangers and difficulties, would, had he had no dealings with
+such men before, have thought that I had a first-rate set of followers.
+I lastly gave Sheikh Said a double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, and
+distributed fifty carbines among the seniors of the expedition, with the
+condition that they would forfeit them to others more worthy if they did
+not behave well, but would retain possession of them for ever if they
+carried them through the journey to my satisfaction.
+
+On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh Said
+and all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and baggage, off in
+dhows to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. Colonel Rigby, with Captain
+Grant and myself, then called on the Sultan, to bid him adieu, when
+he graciously offered me, as a guard of honour to escort me through
+Uzaramo, one jemadar and twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted,
+more as a government security in that country against the tricks of the
+natives, than for any accession they made to our strength. His highness
+then places his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our disposal, and
+we went all three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the 25th. Immediately on
+landing, Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us into a hut prepared for us, and
+all things looked pretty well. Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths,
+and brass wire were all tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis
+(porters from the Moon country) had received their hire to carry these
+loads to Kaze in the land of the Moon. Competition, I found, had raised
+these men's wages, for I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze, nine and
+a quarter dollars a-head!--as Masudi and some other merchants were bound
+on the same line as myself, and all were equally in a hurry to be off
+and avoid as much as possible the famine we knew we should have to fight
+through at this late season. Little troubles, of course, must always be
+expected, else these blacks would not be true negroes. Sheikh Said now
+reported it quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as
+I was a "big man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all been
+obliged to fight in the bazaar before they could get even tobacco at the
+same rate as other men, because they were the servants of the big man,
+who could afford to give higher wages than any one else. The Hottentots,
+too, began to fall sick, which my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want
+of grog to keep their spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots,"
+had frequently at Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more
+sober free men, that they "were strong, because they could stand plenty
+drink." The first step now taken was to pitch camp under large shady
+mango-trees, and to instruct every man in his particular duty. At the
+same time, the Wanguana, who had carbines, were obliged to be drilled
+in their use and formed into companies, with captains of ten, headed by
+General Baraka, who was made commander-in-chief.
+
+On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I sent
+forward half of the property, and all the men I had then collected, to
+Ugeni, a shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on the 2nd October, after
+settling with Ladha for my "African money," as my pagazis were completed
+to a hundred and one, we wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together
+at Ugeni, which resembles the richest parts of Bengal.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Chapter II. Uzaramo
+
+The Nature of the Country--The Order of March--The Beginning of
+our Taxation--Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail--The
+Kingani--Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp--The Murderer of M.
+Maizan.
+
+We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo, though I
+have never found any natives who could enlighten me on the derivation of
+this obviously triple word. The extent of the country, roughly speaking,
+stretches from the coast to the junction or bifurcation of the Kingani
+and its upper branch the Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani,
+north, to the Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions
+several subtribes have encroached upon the lands. There are no hills in
+Uzaramo; but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge between
+the two rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly elevated flats and
+terraces, which, in the rainy season, throw off their surplus waters
+to the north and south by nullahs into these rivers. The country is
+uniformly well covered with trees and large grasses, which, in the rainy
+season, are too thick, tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the
+dry season, after the grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough,
+though not pretty, owing to the flatness of the land. The villages
+are not large or numerous, but widely spread, consisting generally
+of conical grass huts, while others are gable-ended, after the
+coast-fashion--a small collection of ten or twenty comprising one
+village. Over these villages certain headmen, titled Phanze, hold
+jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with high presumption
+when they can. Generally speaking, they live upon the coast, and call
+themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of the Sultan Majid; but
+they no sooner hear of the march of a caravan than they transpose their
+position, become sultans in their own right, and levy taxes accordingly.
+
+The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and but few
+goats. They are of low stature and thick set and their nature tends to
+the boisterous. Expert slavehunters, they mostly clothe themselves by
+the sale of their victims on the coast, though they do business by the
+sale of goats and grain as well. Nowhere in the interior are natives so
+well clad as these creatures. In dressing up their hair, and otherwise
+smearing their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies. They
+always keep their bows and arrows, which form their national arm, in
+excellent order, the latter well poisoned, and carried in quivers nicely
+carved. To intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo or tax, I have seen
+them drawn out in line as if prepared for battle; but a few soft words
+were found sufficient to make them all withdraw and settle the matter at
+issue by arbitration in some appointed place. A few men without property
+can cross their lands fearlessly, though a single individual with
+property would stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves. But
+little is seen of these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their
+taxes by deputy, partly out of pride, and partly because they think they
+can extort more by keeping in the mysterious distance. At the same
+time, the caravan prefers camping in the jungles beyond the villages
+to mingling with the inhabitants, where rows might be engendered.
+We sometimes noticed Albinos, with greyish-blue eyes and light
+straw-coloured hair. Not unfrequently we would pass on the track side
+small heaps of white ashes, with a calcined bone or two among them.
+These, we were told, were the relics of burnt witches. The caravan
+track we had now to travel on leads along the right bank of the Kingani
+valley, overlooking Uzegura, which, corresponding with Uzaramo, only on
+the other side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the Pangani river,
+and is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of which more
+hereafter.
+
+Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1 corporal
+and 9 privates, Hottentots--1 jemadar and 25 privates, Beluchs--1 Arab
+Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves--1 Kirangozi, or leader, and 100 negro
+porters--12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and 22 goats--one could hardly
+expect to find everybody in his place at the proper time for breaking
+ground; but, at the same time, it could hardly be expected that ten men,
+who had actually received their bounty-money, and had sworn fidelity,
+should give one the slip the very first day. Such, however, was the
+case. Ten out of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because
+they feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals, were
+only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one pagazi, more
+honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon the ground, and ran
+away too. Go we must, however; for one desertion is sure to lead to
+more; and go we did. Our procession was in this fashion: The Kirangozi,
+with a load on his shoulder, led the way, flag in hand, followed by the
+pagazis carrying spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing
+their share of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads
+of cloth and beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of a
+three-pronged stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied in even
+weights to each end of sticks which they laid on the shoulder; then
+helter-skelter came the Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and
+boxes, bundles, tents, cooking-pots--all the miscellaneous property--on
+their heads; next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden
+with ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for the
+future; and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort; while the
+goats, sick women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. From first to
+last, some of the sick Hottentots rode the hospital donkeys, allowing
+the negroes to tug their animals; for the smallest ailment threw them
+broadcast on their backs. In a little while we cleared from the rich
+gardens, mango clumps, and cocoa-but trees, which characterise the
+fertile coast-line. After traversing fields of grass well clothed with
+green trees, we arrived at the little settlement of Bomani, where camp
+was formed, and everybody fairly appointed to his place. The process of
+camp-forming would be thus: Sheikh Said, with Bombay under him, issues
+cloths to the men for rations at the rate of one-fourth load a-day
+(about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the Hottentots cook our dinners and their
+own, or else lie rolling on the ground overcome with fatigue;
+the Beluchs are supposed to guard the camp, but prefer gossip and
+brightening their arms. Some men are told off to look after the mules,
+donkeys, and goats, whilst out grazing; the rest have to pack the kit,
+pitch our tents, cut boughs for huts, and for fencing in the camp--a
+thing rarely done, by-the-by. After cooking, when the night has set
+it, the everlasting dance begins, attended with clapping of hands and
+jingling small bells strapped to the legs--the whole being accompanied
+by a constant repetition of senseless words, which stand in place of
+the song to the negroes; for song they have none, being mentally
+incapacitated for musical composition, though as timists they are not to
+be surpassed.
+
+What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant,
+myself, and our private servants. Beginning at the foot: Rahan, a very
+peppery little negro, who had served in a British man-of-war at the
+taking of Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had been trained much
+in the same manner, but had seen engagements at Multan, was Captain
+Grant's. They both knew Hindustani; but while Rahan's services at
+sea had been short, Baraka had served nearly all his life with
+Englishmen--was the smartest and most intelligent negro I ever saw--was
+invaluable to Colonel Rigby as a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed
+his confidence completely--so much so, that he said, on parting with
+him, that he did not know where he should be able to find another man
+to fill his post. These two men had now charge of our tents and personal
+kit, while Baraka was considered the general of the Wanguana forces, and
+Rahan a captain of ten.
+
+My first occupation was to map the country. This is done by timing the
+rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings along the road, or
+on any conspicuous marks--as, for instance, hills off it--and by noting
+the watershed--in short, all topographical objects. On arrival in
+camp every day came the ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the
+altitude of the station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the
+station by the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and
+of the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the fixing
+of certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles or so, by
+lunar observations, or distances of the moon either from the sun or
+from certain given stars, for determining the longitude, by which the
+original-timed course can be drawn out with certainty on the map by
+proportion. Should a date be lost, you can always discover it by taking
+a lunar distance and comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting
+the time when a star passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by
+observing the phases of the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared
+with the Nautical Almanac. The rest of my work, besides sketching and
+keeping a diary, which was the most troublesome of all, consisted in
+making geological and zoological collections. With Captain Grant rested
+the botanical collections and thermometrical registers. He also
+boiled one of the thermometers, kept the rain-gauge, and undertook the
+photography; but after a time I sent the instruments back, considering
+this work too severe for the climate, and he tried instead sketching
+with watercolours--the results of which form the chief part of the
+illustrations in this book. The rest of our day went in breakfasting
+after the march was over--a pipe, to prepare us for rummaging the fields
+and villages to discover their contents for scientific purposes--dinner
+close to sunset, and tea and pipe before turning in at night.
+
+A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of Nzasa,
+where there is another small village presided over by Phanze Khombe la
+Simba, meaning Claw of Lion. He, immediately after our arrival, sent us
+a present of a basket of rice, value one dollar, of course expecting
+a return--for absolute generosity is a thing unknown to the negro. Not
+being aware of the value of the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh
+to give him four yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about
+the matter, until presently I found the cloth returned. The "Sultan"
+could not think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the
+former journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home, nobody
+would believe him, but would say he took much more and concealed it from
+his family, wishing to keep all his goods to himself. I answered that my
+footing in the country had been paid for on the last journey, and unless
+he would accept me as any other common traveller, he had better walk
+away; but the little Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature,
+knowing the man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone,
+pleaded for him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one
+sahari, and eight yards merikani, as the American sheeting is called
+here. This was pressed by the jemadar, and acceded to by myself, as the
+very utmost I could afford. Lion's Claw, however, would not accept it;
+it was too far below the mark of what he got last time. He therefore
+returned the cloths to the Sheikh, as he could get no hearing from
+myself, and retreated in high dudgeon, threatening the caravan with
+a view of his terrible presence on the morrow. Meanwhile the little
+Sheikh, who always carried a sword fully two-thirds the length of
+himself, commenced casting bullets for his double-barrelled rifle,
+ordered the Wanguana to load their guns, and came wheedling up to me for
+one more cloth, as it was no use hazarding the expedition's safety for
+four yards of cloth. This is a fair specimen of tax-gathering, within
+twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims the protection of
+Zanzibar. We shall soon see what they are further on. The result of
+experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see the interior
+of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the natives, than his whole
+thoughts tend to discovering some road where he won't be molested, or a
+short cut, but long march, to get over the ground.
+
+Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon passed Nzasa
+close to the river, which is only indicated by a line of trees running
+through a rich alluvial valley. We camped at the little settlement of
+Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's
+Tail, who no sooner heard of our arrival than he sent a demand for his
+"rights." One dubani was issued, with orders than no one need approach
+me again, unless he wanted to smell my powder. Two taxes in five miles
+was a thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until
+Bombay in the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward
+consequences, had settled to give two dubuani, one being taken from
+his own store. Lion's Claw also turned up again, getting his cloths of
+yesterday--one more being added from the Sheikh's stores--and he was
+then advised to go off quietly, as I was a fire-eater whom nobody dared
+approach after my orders had been issued. This was our third march in
+Uzaramo; we had scarcely seen a man of the country, and had no excessive
+desire to do so.
+
+Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we
+crossed a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated cultivation
+of Kiranga Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very mild man, who,
+wishing to give no offence, begged for a trifling present. He came in
+person, and his manner having pleased us, I have him one sahari, four
+yards merikani, and eight yards kiniki, which pleased our friend so much
+that he begged us to consider his estate our own, even to the extent of
+administering his justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from
+us. Our target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not
+a little, and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we need
+fear nothing, go where we would. From this place a good view is obtained
+of Uzegura. Beyond the flat alluvial valley of the Kingani, seven to
+eight miles broad, the land rises suddenly to a table-land of no great
+height, on which trees grow in profusion. In fact it appeared, as far as
+the eye could reach, the very counterpart of that where we stood, with
+the exception of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue.
+
+A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us here
+from Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots could
+only be kept alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine, feared our
+supplies were not enough, and sent us more.
+
+We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana proper; they
+were shy, like wild animals--built their huts by themselves--and ate and
+talked by themselves, for they felt themselves inferiors; and I had
+to nominate one of their number to be their chief, answerable for the
+actions of the whole. Being in the position of "boots" to the camp,
+the tending of goats fell to their lot. Three goats were missing this
+evening, which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their
+men. Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told their
+chief to inquire farther, and report. The upshot was, that the man was
+thrashed for intermeddling, and came back only with his scars. This was
+a nice sort of insubordination, which of course could not be endured.
+The goatherd was pinioned and brought to trial, for the double
+offence of losing the goats and rough-handling his chief. The tricking
+scoundrel--on quietly saying he could not be answerable for other men's
+actions if they stole goats, and he could not recognise a man as his
+chief whom the Sheikh, merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to
+appoint--was condemned to be tied up for the night with the prospect of
+a flogging in the morning. Seeing his fate, the cunning vagabond said,
+"Now I do see it was by your orders the chief was appointed, and not
+by a whim of Sheikh Said's; I will obey him for the future;" and these
+words were hardly pronounced than the three missing goats rushed like
+magic into camp, nobody of course knowing where they came from.
+
+Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the river,
+through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we arrived at
+Thumba Lhere. The chief here took a hongo of three yards merikani and
+two yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had no power. The pagazis
+struck, and said they would not move from this unless I gave them one
+fundo or ten necklaces of beads each daily, in lieu of rations, as they
+were promised by Ladha on the coast that I would do so as soon as they
+had made four marches. This was an obvious invention, concocted to try
+my generosity, for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary,
+to "make the journey prosperous"--had suspended a dollar to his neck in
+recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani, that he
+might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither the Sheikh,
+myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of such a compact. With
+high words the matter dropped, African fashion.
+
+The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to enforce
+their demands of last night; so we took the lead and started, followed
+by the Wanguana. Seeing this, the pagazis cried out with one accord:
+"The master is gone, leaving the responsibility of his property in our
+hands; let us follow, let us follow, for verily he is our father;" and
+all came hurrying after us. Here the river, again making a bend, is lost
+to sight, and we marched through large woods and cultivated fields to
+Muhugue, observing, as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the earth,
+and numerous pits which the copal-diggers had made searching for their
+much-valued gum. A large coast-bound caravan, carrying ivory tusks with
+double-toned bells suspended to them, ting-tonging as they moved along,
+was met on the way; and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who
+had formerly taken me to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed
+between us. The water found here turned our brandy and tea as black as
+ink. The chief, being a man of small pretensions, took only one sahari
+and four yards merikani.
+
+Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly
+place for the day, that I might comply with the desire of the Royal
+Geographical Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if there were
+really any indications of a "raised sea-beach" there, such as their maps
+indicate. An inspection brought me to the conclusion that no mind but
+one prone to discovering sea-beaches in the most unlikely places
+could have supposed for a moment that one existed here. The form and
+appearance of the land are the same as we have seen everywhere since
+leaving Bomani--a low plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the
+Kingani river, and nothing more. There are no pebbles; the soil is rich
+reddish loam, well covered with trees, bush, and grass, in which some
+pigs and antelopes are found. From the top of this enbankment we gain
+the first sight of the East Coast Range, due west of us, represented
+by the high elephant's-back hill, Mkambaku, in Usagara, which, joining
+Uraguru, stretches northwards across the Pangani river to Usumbara and
+the Kilimandjaro, and southwards, with a westerly deflection, across the
+Lufiji to Southern N'yassa. What course the range takes beyond those two
+extremes, the rest of the world knows as well as I. Another conspicuous
+landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill), which is the southernmost
+point of a low chain of hills, also tending northwards, and representing
+an advance-guard to the higher East Coast Range in its rear. At night,
+as we had no local "sultans" to torment us, eight more men of sultan
+Majid's donation ran away, and, adding injury to injury, took with them
+all our goats, fifteen in number. This was a sad loss. We could keep
+ourselves on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves, etc.; but the
+Hottentots wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and as their
+dinner always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the fate in
+store for them. The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor creatures
+as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a diminutive
+Tot--the common name they go by--was exerting himself to lift his pack
+and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean Mguana stepped up behind,
+grasped Tot, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifted the whole over
+his head, paraded the Tot about, struggling for release, and put him
+down amidst the laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and patted
+him on the back.
+
+After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and goats,
+in which they were not successful, we passed through the village of
+Sagesera, and camped one mile beyond, close to the river. Phanze Kirongo
+(which means Mr Pit) here paid us his respects, with a presentation of
+rice. In return he received four yards merikani and one dubuani, which
+Bombay settled, as the little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded
+indisposition, to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to
+on these occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my
+resisting on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought it
+very inadvisable to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice of future
+travellers, by decreasing the value of merchandise, and increasing
+proportionately the expectations of these negro chiefs. From the top
+of the bank bordering on the valley, a good view was obtainable of the
+Uraguru hills, and the top of a very distant cone to its northward;
+but I could see no signs of any river joining the kingani on its left,
+though on the former expedition I heard that the Mukondokua river,
+which was met with in Usagara, joined the Kingani close to Sagesera, and
+actually formed its largest head branch. Neither could Mr Pit inform
+me what became of the Mukondokua, as the Wazaramo are not given to
+travelling. He had heard of it from the traders, but only knew himself
+of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami in Uegura, and
+mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadani. To try and
+check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men, I advised--ordering was
+of no use--that their camp should be broken up, and they should be
+amalgamated with the Wanguana; but it was found that the two would not
+mix. In fact, the whole native camp consisted of so many clubs of two,
+four, six, or ten men, who originally belonged to one village or one
+master, or were united by some other family tie which they preferred
+keeping intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together,
+and sometimes mutinied together. The amalgamation having failed, I wrote
+some emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all up together,
+selected the best, gave them these tickets, announced that their pay
+and all rewards would be placed for the future on the same conditions as
+those of the Wanguana, and as soon as I saw any signs of improvement in
+the rest, they would all be treated in the same manner; but should they
+desert, they would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast
+and put them into prison.
+
+During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the Uzaramo
+plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of this line with
+those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse central Uzaramo, and
+which, on my former return journey, I went down. The gum-copal diggings
+here cease. The Dum palm is left behind; the large rich green-leaved
+trees of the low plateau give place to the mimosa; and now, having
+ascended the greater decline of the Kingani river, instead of being
+confined by a bank, we found ourselves on flat open-park land, where
+antelopes roam at large, buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and
+guinea-fowl are numerous. The water for the camp is found in the river,
+but supplies of grain come from the village of Kipora farther on.
+
+A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which, by
+crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were obtained on
+the opposite bank. One can seldom afford to follow wild animals on the
+line of march, otherwise we might have bagged some antelopes to-day,
+which, scared by the interminable singing, shouting, bell-jingling,
+horn-blowing, and other such merry noises of the moving caravan, could
+be seen disappearing in the distance.
+
+Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo, affording
+crops as fine as any part of India. Here it was, in the district of
+Dege la Mhora, that the first expedition to this country, guided by a
+Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal termination, that gentleman having
+been barbarously murdered by the sub-chief Hembe. The cause of the
+affair was distinctly explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with
+his cousin Darunga, came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not
+maltreated by the last expedition, that the matter would now be
+forgotten. The two men were very great friends of the little Sheikh,
+and as a present was expected, which I should have to pay, we all talked
+cheerfully and confidentially, bringing in the fate of Maizan for no
+other reason than to satisfy curiosity. Hembe, who lives in the centre
+of an almost impenetrable thicket, confessed that he was the murderer,
+but said the fault did not rest with him, as he merely carried out the
+instructions of his father, Mzungera, who, a Diwan on the coast, sent
+him a letter directing his actions. Thus it is proved that the plot
+against Maizan was concocted on the coast by the Arab merchants--most
+likely from the same motive which has induced one rival merchant to
+kill another as the best means of checking rivalry or competition.
+When Arabs--and they are the only class of people who would do such
+a deed--found a European going into the very middle of their secret
+trading-places, where such large profits were to be obtained, they would
+never suppose that the scientific Maizan went for any other purpose than
+to pry into their ivory stores, bring others into the field after him,
+and destroy their monopoly. The Sultan of Zanzibar, in those days, was
+our old ally Said Said, commonly called the Emam of Muscat; and our
+Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had been M. Maizan's host as long as he lived
+upon the coast. Both the Emam and Consul were desirous of seeing the
+country surveyed, and did everything in their power to assist Maizan,
+the former even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct him safely as
+far as Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient to damp the
+raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart. Musa commenced the
+journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a march or two,
+when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell sick and stopped his
+progress. Musa remained with him eight or ten days, to his own loss in
+trade and expense in keeping up a large establishment, and then they
+parted by mutual consent, Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough
+to take care of himself. This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's
+death-blow. His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and
+left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills.
+
+The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards merikani
+to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a return in
+grain. Still following close to the river--which, unfortunately, is so
+enshrouded with thick bush that we could seldom see it--a few of the
+last villages in Uzaramo were passed. Here antelopes reappear amongst
+the tall mimosa, but we let them alone in prosecution of the survey, and
+finally encamped opposite the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the
+left bank of the Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura.
+The hill crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils
+were observable. It would be interesting to ascertain whether this lime
+formation extends down the east coast of Africa from the Somali country,
+where also, on my first expedition, I found marine shells in the
+limestone, especially as a vast continuous band of limestone is known
+to extend from the Tagus, through Egypt and the Somali country, to the
+Burrumputra. To obtain food it was necessary here to ferry the river and
+purchase from the Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans,
+had left their own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this
+pretty little hill--rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it
+was the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast. The Diwan, or head
+man, was a very civil creature; he presented us freely with two fine
+goats--a thing at that time we were very much in want of--and took, in
+return, without any comments, one dubani and eight yards merikani.
+
+The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a halt
+was made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and pack all
+the specimens of natural history collected on the way, for the Royal
+Geographical Society. Captain Grant, taking advantage of the spare time,
+killed for the larder two buck antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in
+high excited triumph, a famous pig.
+
+This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads through
+rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary stream Mgeta. It
+is fordable in the dry season, but has to be bridged by throwing a tree
+across it in the wet one. Rising in the Usagara hills to the west of the
+hog-backed Mkambaku, this branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in
+the centre, and circles round until it unites with the Kingani about
+four miles north of the ford. Where the Kingani itself rises, I never
+could find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling
+spring on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the Mgeta
+is made the longer branch of the two.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter III. Usagara
+
+Nature of the Country--Resumption of the March--A Hunt--Bombay
+and Baraka--The Slave-Hunters--The Ivory-Merchants--Collection of
+Natural-History Specimens--A Frightened Village--Tracking a Mule.
+
+Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara--country of
+Gara--is included all the country lying between the bifurcation of
+the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the first country on the
+interior plateau west,--a distance of a hundred miles. On the north it
+is bounded by the Mukondokua, or upper course of the Wami river and on
+the south by the Ruaha, or northern great branch of the Lufiji river. It
+forms a link of the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally
+comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes occupy and
+apply their own names to portions of it; as, for instance, the people
+on whose ground we now stood at the foot of the hills, are Wa-Khutu,
+and their possessions consequently are U-Khutu, which is by far the best
+producing land hitherto alluded to since leaving the sea-coast line. Our
+ascent by the river, though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500
+feet. From this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000
+to 6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines,
+lying at an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated one
+from the other by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw spurs of hill
+which incline towards the flanking rivers. The whole having been thrown
+up by volcanic action, is based on a strong foundation of granite and
+other igneous rocks, which are exposed in many places in the shape of
+massive blocks; otherwise the hill-range is covered in the upper part
+with sandstone, and in the bottoms with alluvial clay. This is the
+superficial configuration of the land as it strikes the eye; but,
+knowing the elevation of the interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above
+the sea immediately on the western flank of these hills, whilst the
+breath of the chain is 100 miles, the mean slope of incline of the basal
+surface must be on a gradual rise of twenty feet per mile. The hill tops
+and sides, where not cultivated, are well covered with bush and small
+trees, amongst which the bamboo is conspicuous; whilst the bottoms,
+having a soil deeper and richer, produce fine large fig-trees of
+exceeding beauty, the huge calabash, and a variety of other trees. Here,
+in certain places where water is obtainable throughout the year, and
+wars, or slave-hunts more properly speaking, do not disturb the industry
+of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly; but such a boon is
+rarely granted them. It is in consequence of these constantly-recurring
+troubles that the majority of the Wasagara villages are built on
+hill-spurs, where the people can the better resist attack, or, failing,
+disperse and hide effectually. The normal habitation is the small
+conical hut of grass. These compose villages, varying in number
+according to the influence of their head men. There are, however, a few
+mud villages on the table-lands, each built in a large irregular square
+of chambers with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe.
+
+As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches, they
+contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of them. Dingy
+in colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite attack in a country
+where every human being has a market value, and are little seen by the
+passing caravan. In habits they are semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and
+would be useful members of society were they left alone to cultivate
+their own possessions, rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and
+desolate by force of circumstance. Some of the men can afford a cloth,
+but the greater part wear an article which I can only describe as a
+grass kilt. In one or two places throughout the passage of these hills
+a caravan may be taxed, but if so, only to a small amount; the villagers
+more frequently fly to the hill-tops as soon as the noise of the
+advancing caravan is heard, and no persuasions will bring them down
+again, so much ground have they, from previous experience, to fear
+treachery. It is such sad sights, and the obvious want of peace and
+prosperity, that weary the traveller, and make him every think of
+pushing on to his journey's end from the instant he enters Africa until
+he quits the country.
+
+Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the fork of
+these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in vast herds, where
+no men are ever seen except some savage hunters sitting in the trees
+with poisoned arrows, or watching their snares and pitfalls, I had all
+along determined on a hunt myself, to feed and cheer the men, and also
+to collect some specimens for the home museums. In the first object we
+succeeded well, as "the bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four
+water-boc, one pallah-boc, and one pig,--enough to feed abundantly the
+whole camp round. The feast was all the better relished as the men knew
+well that no Arab master would have given them what he could sell; for
+if a slave shot game, the animals would be the master's, to be sold bit
+by bit among the porters, and compensated from the proceeds of their
+pay. In the variety and number of our game we were disappointed, partly
+because so many wounded got away, and partly because we could not find
+what we knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed--namely,
+elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many varieties of
+antelopes, besides lions and hyenas. In fact, "the park," as well as all
+the adjacent land at the foot of the hills, is worth thinking of, with a
+view to a sporting tour as well as scientific investigation.
+
+A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it appeared,
+is worth noting, to show how careful one must be in understanding and
+dealing with negro servants. Quite unaccountably to myself, the general
+of my Wanguana, Baraka, after showing much discontent with his position
+as head of Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it
+was necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look
+after the men. This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much as
+Baraka, if his profession was to be believed, enjoyed his removal from
+that office. Though he spoke in this manner, still I knew that there was
+something rankling in his mind which depressed his spirits as long as he
+remained with us, though what it was I could not comprehend, nor did I
+fully understand it till months afterwards. It was ambition, which was
+fast making a fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great
+advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot. The facts were these:
+He was exceedingly clever, and he knew it. His command over men was
+surprising. At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-hand man: he ranked
+above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and became a terror even to
+the Banyans who kept slaves. He seemed, in fact, in his own opinion, to
+have imbibed all the power of the British Consul who had instructed him.
+Such a man was an element of discord in our peaceful caravan. He was far
+too big-minded for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now
+is that he ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of
+enlistment, have expected, that no man would be degraded to make room
+for him. But this was evidently what he had expected, though he dared
+not say it. He was jealous of Bombay, because he thought his position
+over the money department was superior to his own over the men; and he
+had seen Bombay, on one occasion, pay a tax in Uzaramo--a transaction
+which would give him consequence with the native chiefs. Of Sheikh Said
+he was equally jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased
+the more that I found it necessary to censure the timidity of this
+otherwise worthy little man. Baraka thought, in his conceit, that he
+could have done all things better, and gained signal fame, had he been
+created chief. Perhaps he thought he had gained the first step towards
+this exalted rank, and hence his appearing very happy for this time.
+I could not see through so deep a scheme and only hoped that he would
+shortly forget, in the changes of the marching life, those beautiful
+wives he had left behind him, which Bombay in his generosity tried to
+persuade me was the cause of his mental distraction.
+
+Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing sickness of
+the Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain Grant was seized with
+fever. [6] We had to change camp to the little village of Kiruru, where,
+as rice was grown--an article not to be procured again on this side of
+Unyamuezi--we stopped a day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of
+all travelling food. Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the
+river system which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura;
+and I concluded, from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the
+Mukondokua and Wami rivers being one and the same stream. My informants
+were the natives of the settlement, and they all concurred in saying
+that the Kingani above the junction is called the Rufu, meaning the
+parent stream. Beyond it, following under the line of the hills, at one
+day's journey distant, there is a smaller river called Msonge. At
+an equal distance beyond it, another of the same size is known as
+Lungerengeri; and a fourth river is the Wami, which mouths in the sea at
+Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadami. In former years, the
+ivory-merchants, ever seeking for an easy road for their trade, and
+knowing they would have no hills to climb if they could only gain a
+clear passage by this river from the interior plateau to the sea, made
+friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and succeeded in establishing
+it as a thoroughfare. Avarice, however, that fatal enemy to the negro
+chiefs, made them overreach themselves by exorbitant demands of taxes.
+Then followed contests for the right of appropriating the taxes, and the
+whole ended in the closing of the road, which both parties were equally
+anxious to keep open for their mutual gain. This foolish disruption
+having at first only lasted for a while, the road was again opened and
+again closed, for the merchants wanted an easy passage, and the native
+chiefs desired cloths. But it was shut again; and now we heard of its
+being for a third time opened, with what success the future only can
+determine--for experience WILL not teach the negro, who thinks only for
+the moment. Had they only sense to see, and patience to wait, the
+whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through their country
+instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths, they would
+be rich and well dressed like their neighbours. But the curse of Noah
+sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and no remedy that has yet
+been found will relieve them. They require a government like ours in
+India; and without it, the slave trade will wipe them off the face of
+the earth.
+
+Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the Mgazi
+branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where the tall
+palm is conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy Mkambaku, to find
+a residence for the day. Here an Arab merchant, Khamis, bound for
+Zanzibar, obliged us by agreeing for a few dollars to convey our recent
+spoils in natural history to the coast.
+
+My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as possible,
+as a few days' halt would be required there to fix the longitude of the
+eastern flank of the East Coast Range by astronomical observation;
+but on ordering the morning's march, the porters--too well fed and
+lazy--thought our marching-rate much too severe, and resolutely refused
+to move. They ought to have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing
+five. Argument was useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick,
+as the Arabs would have done when they saw their porters trifling
+with their pockets. Determining, however, not to be frustrated in this
+puerile manner, I ordered the bugler to sound the march, and started
+with the mules and coast-men, trusting to Sheikh and Baraka to bring on
+the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move them. The same day we crossed
+the Mgazi where we found several Wakhutu spearing fish in the muddy
+hovers of its banks.
+
+We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable residence
+under the eaves of a capacious hut. The Wanyamuezi porters next came
+in at their own time, and proved to us how little worth are orders in
+a land where every man, in his own opinion, is a lord, and no laws
+prevail. Zungomero, bisected by the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a
+very pretty amphitheatre of hills, S. lat. 7 deg. 26' 53", and E. long.
+37 deg. 36' 45". It is extremely fertile, and very populous, affording
+everything that man can wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits;
+but the slave-trade has almost depopulated it, and turned its once
+flourishing gardens into jungles. As I have already said, the people who
+possess these lands are cowardly by nature, and that is the reason why
+they are so much oppressed. The Wasuahili, taking advantage of their
+timidity, flock here in numbers to live upon the fruits of their
+labours. The merchants on the coast, too, though prohibited by their
+Sultan from interfering with the natural course of trade, send their
+hungry slaves, as touters, to entice all approaching caravans to
+trade with their particular ports, authorising the touters to pay such
+premiums as may be necessary for the purpose. Where they came from we
+could not ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of the
+Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred head of
+cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats. Halts always end
+disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;--and here was an
+example of it. During the target-practice, which was always instituted
+on such occasions to give confidence to our men, the little pepper-box
+Rahan, my head valet, challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines.
+Being stopped by those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible
+oaths, and swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off,
+and blew his middle finger off.
+
+Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a row is
+commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send him running
+to me so agitated with excitement that I thought him drunk. He seized my
+hands, cried, and implored me to turn him off. What could this mean?
+I could not divine; neither could he explain, further than that he had
+come to a determination that I must send either him or Baraka to the
+right-about; and his first idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be
+the victim. Baraka's jealousy about his position had not struck me yet.
+I called them both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could
+not extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given, either
+by word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only desired the
+prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign throughout the
+camp; but Bombay was suspicious of him, and malignantly abused him, for
+what reason Baraka could not tell. When I spoke of this to Bombay, like
+a bird fascinated by the eye of a viper, he shrank before the slippery
+tongue of his opponent, and could only say, "No, Sahib--oh no, that is
+not it; you had better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine
+so short, you never will believe me." I tried to make them friends,
+hoping it was merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but
+before long the two disputants were tonguing it again, and I distinctly
+heard Bombay ordering Baraka out of camp as he could not keep from
+intermeddling, saying, which was true, he had invited him to join the
+expedition, that his knowledge of Hindustani might be useful to us; he
+was not wanted for any other purpose, and unless he was satisfied with
+doing that alone, we would get on much better without him. To this
+provocation Baraka mildly made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in
+a passion, nobody is hurting you, it is all in your own heart, which is
+full of suspicions and jealousy without the slightest cause."
+
+This complicated matters more than ever. I knew Bombay to be a generous,
+honest man, entitled by his former services to be in the position he was
+now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the camp. Baraka, who never
+would have joined the expedition excepting through his invitation, was
+indebted to him for the rank he now enjoyed--a command over seventy men,
+a duty in which he might have distinguished himself as a most useful
+accessory to the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them
+to act in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for
+entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with myself
+to reward for merit or to punish. The relative position in the camp was
+like that of the senior officers in India, Bombay representing the
+Mulki lord, or Governor-General, and Baraka the Jungi lord, or
+Commander-in-Chief. To the influence of this distinguished comparison
+they both gave way, acknowledging myself their judge, and both
+protesting that they wished to serve in peace and quietness for the
+benefit of the march.
+
+Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the
+interior--one, the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and trenching
+on the Mukondokua river, and the other crossing over the Mabruki Pass,
+and edging on the Ruaha river. They both unite again at Ugogi, the
+western terminus on the present great Unyamuezi line. On the former
+expedition I went by the northern line and returned by the southern,
+finding both equally easy, and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and
+permanent preference. In fact, every season makes a difference in the
+supply of water and provisions; and with every year, owing to incessant
+wars, or rather slave-hunts, the habitations of the wretched inhabitants
+become constantly changed--generally speaking, for the worse. Our first
+and last object, therefore, as might be supposed, from knowing these
+circumstances, was to ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which
+route would afford us the best facilities for a speedy march now. No
+one, however, could or would advise us. The whole country on ahead,
+especially Ugogo, was oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid this
+latter country, then, we selected the southern route, as by doing so it
+was hoped we might follow the course of the Ruaha river from Maroro
+to Usenga and Usanga, and thence strike across to Unyanyembe, sweeping
+clear of Ugogo.
+
+With this determination, after despatching a third set of specimens,
+consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes, insects, land
+and freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of which one was
+fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating the forests which lie
+between the greater range and the little outlying one. At the foot of
+this is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot, deep-seated spring of fresh water,
+which bubbles up through many apertures in a large dome-shaped heap
+of soft lime--an accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the
+spring, as the rocks on either side of it are of igneous character.
+We arrived at the deserted village of Kirengue. This was not an easy
+go-ahead march, for the halt had disaffected both men and mules. Three
+of the former bolted, leaving their loads upon the ground; and on the
+line of march, one of the mules, a full-conditioned animal, gave up the
+ghost after an eighteen hours' sickness. What his disease was I never
+could ascertain; but as all the remaining animals died afterwards much
+in the same manner, I may state for once and for all, that these attacks
+commenced with general swelling, at first on the face, then down the
+neck, along the belly and down the legs. It proved so obstinate that
+fire had no effect upon it; and although we cut off the tails of some to
+relieve them by bleeding, still they died.
+
+In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to find
+some supplies for the jungly march before us. But we had calculated
+without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven every vestige of
+humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by our three loads behind,
+there was nothing left but to send back and purchase more grain. Such
+was one of the many days frittered away in do-nothingness.
+
+This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the well-wooded
+Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was plentiful, and at
+night we bivouacked in the jungle.
+
+Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we soon
+reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be seen a
+curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant overlooking all the
+rest of the hills. The scenery here formed a strong and very pleasing
+contrast to any we had seen since leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha,
+who had been driven from their homes across the Kingani river by the
+slave-hunters, had taken possession of the place, and disposed their
+little conical-hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a
+picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would here at
+least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness. The valleys, watered
+by little brooks, are far richer, and even prettier, than the high
+lands above, being lined with fine trees and evergreen shrubs; while the
+general state of prosperity was such, that the people could afford, even
+at this late season of the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew
+beer for sale; and goats and fowls were plentiful in the market.
+
+Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my former
+expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of the Mbuiga
+district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great friend of the little
+sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar anything we might give him, a
+halt was made, and I drew up my reports. I then consigned to his
+charge three of the most sickly of the Hottentots in a deplorable
+condition--one of the mules, that they might ride by turns--and all
+the specimens that had been collected. With regret I also sent back the
+camera; because I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it,
+the heat he was subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing
+and fixing his plates would very soon have killed him. The number of
+guinea-fowl seen here was most surprising.
+
+A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance of
+those grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the stiff
+ascent of the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without much difficult.
+This concluded the first range of these Usagara hills; and once over, we
+dropped down to the elevated valley of Makata, where we halted two days
+to shoot. As a travelling Arab informed me that the whole of the Maroro
+district had been laid waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our
+plans again, and directed our attention to a middle and entirely new
+line, which in the end would lead us to Ugogi. The first and only
+giraffe killed upon the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little
+40-gauge Lancaster rifle, at 200 yards' distance. Some smaller animals
+were killed; but I wasted all my time in fruitlessly stalking some
+wounded striped eland--magnificent animals, as large as Delhi oxen--and
+some other animals, of which I wounded three, about the size of
+hartebeest, and much their shape, only cream-coloured, with a
+conspicuous black spot in the centre of each flank. The eland may
+probably be the animal first mentioned by Livingstone, but the other
+animal is not known.
+
+Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to be
+found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to leave
+Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley of Makata, and
+ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no sooner arrived than we
+met the last down trader from Unyamuezi, well known to all my men as
+the great Mamba or Crocodile. Mamba, dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with
+coronet of lion's nails decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us
+with all the dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff
+of half-naked officials. As usual, he had been the last to leave the
+Unyamuezi, and so purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap rate,
+there being no competitors left to raise the value of that commodity;
+but his journey had been a very trying one. With a party, at his own
+estimate, of two thousand souls--we did not see anything like that
+number--he had come from Ugogo to this, by his own confession, living on
+the products of the jungle, and by boiling down the skin aprons of his
+porters occasionally for a soup. Famines were raging throughout the
+land, and the Arabs preceding him had so harried the country, that every
+village was deserted. On hearing our intention to march upon the direct
+line, he frankly said he thought we should never get through for my men
+could not travel as he had done, and therefore he advised our deflecting
+northwards from New Mbumi to join the track leading from Rumuma to
+Ugogi. This was a sad disappointment; but, rather than risk a failure, I
+resolved to follow his advice.
+
+After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops,
+covered with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and reached
+the habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared than the poor
+villagers, accustomed only to rough handling, immediately dispersed in
+the jungles. By dint of persuasion, however, we induced them to sell us
+provisions, though at a monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have
+afforded; and having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the
+upper courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards
+to the Mukondokua river. The scenery was most interesting, with every
+variety of hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and prettily wooded;
+but we saw nothing of the people. Like frightened rats, as soon as they
+caught the sound of our advancing march, they buried themselves in
+the jungles, carrying off their grain with them. Foraging parties, of
+necessity, were sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for
+purchases, and strict orders not to use force; the upshot of which was,
+that my people got nothing but a few arrows fired at them by the
+lurking villagers, and I was abused for my squeamishness. Moreover,
+the villagers, emboldened by my lenity, vauntingly declared they would
+attack the camp by night, as they could only recognise in us such men
+as plunder their houses and steal their children. This caused a certain
+amount of alarm among my men, which induced them to run up a stiff
+bush-fence round the camp, and kept them talking all night.
+
+This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots lashed
+on a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the sun asleep,
+became so sickly that he could not move or do anything for himself, and
+nobody would do anything for him. The march was a long one, but under
+ordinary circumstances would have been very interesting, for we passed
+an immense lagoon, where hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an
+attack. In the larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes,
+rhinoceros, and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich variety of
+small birds, as often happened, made me wish I had come on a shooting
+rather than on a long exploring expedition. Towards sunset we arrived
+at New Mbimi, a very pretty and fertile place, lying at the foot of
+a cluster of steep hills, and pitched camp for three days to lay in
+supplies for ten, as this was reported to be the only place where we
+could buy corn until we reached Ugogo, a span of 140 miles. Mr Mbumi,
+the chief of the place, a very affable negro, at once took us by the
+hand, and said he would do anything we desired, for he had often been to
+Zanzibar. He knew that the English were the ruling power in that land,
+and that they were opposed to slavery, the terrible effects of which had
+led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the banks of the Mukondokua river,
+and rising here.
+
+The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian honours.
+As his comrades said, he died because he had determined to die,--an
+instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish temperament which no
+kind words or threats can cure. This terrible catastrophe made me wish
+to send all the remaining Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all
+preferred serving with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected
+two of the MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old
+servants, and told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time
+as he might find some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the
+meanwhile, for board and lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. The
+prices of provisions here being a good specimen of what one has to
+pay at this season of the year, I give a short list of them:--sixteen
+rations corn, two yards cloth; three fowls, two yards cloth; one goat,
+twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards cloth,--the cloth being common
+American sheeting. Before we left Mbumi, a party of forty men and women
+of the Waquiva tribe, pressed by famine, were driven there to purchase
+food. The same tribe had, however killed many of Mbumi's subjects not
+long since, and therefore, in African revenge, the chief seized them
+all, saying he would send them off for sale to Zanzibar market unless
+they could give a legitimate reason for the cruelty they had committed.
+These Waquiva, I was given to understand, occupied the steep hills
+surrounding this place. They were a squalid-looking set, like the
+generality of the inhabitants of this mountainous region.
+
+This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another
+tributary to the Mukondokua. It is all clad in the upper regions with
+the slender pole-trees which characterise these hills, intermingled with
+bamboo; but the bottoms are characterised by a fine growth of fig-trees
+of great variety along with high grasses; whilst near the villages were
+found good gardens of plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees. The rainy
+season being not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and
+breaking their ground. Within their reach everywhere is the sarsaparilla
+vine, but growing as a weed, for they know nothing of its value.
+
+Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another
+high ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue, as
+picturesque a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas, dotted on
+the ridges and spur-slopes by numerous small conical-hut villages;
+but all so poor that we could not, had we wanted it, have purchased
+provisions for a day's consumption.
+
+Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung with much
+higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our Hottentots, as
+they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the slopes, so like the
+range in Kafraria, that they formed their expectations accordingly,
+and appeared, for the first time since leaving the coast, happy at the
+prospect before them, little dreaming that such rich places were seldom
+to be met with. The Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a
+paradise, and forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to
+offer them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little
+under control, we should not have completed our distance that day, and
+so reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness, of the sterile
+Somali land. Proceeding through the semi-desert rolling table-land--in
+one place occupied by men who build their villages in large open squares
+of flat-topped mud huts, which, when I have occasion to refer to them
+in future, I shall call by their native name tembe--we could see on the
+right hand the massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to
+the front the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high
+crab-claw shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain, circles
+round conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie between the two
+main rocky ridges. Contorted green thorn-trees, "elephant-foot" stumps,
+and aloes, seem to thrive best here, by their very nature indicating
+what the country is, a poor stony land. Our camp was pitched by the
+river Rumuma, where, sheltered from the winds, and enriched by alluvial
+soil, there ought to have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had
+nothing to sell.
+
+On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to breakfast, and
+camped in the crooked green thorns by night, carrying water on for our
+supper. This kind of travelling--forced marches--hard as it may appear,
+was what we liked best, for we felt that we were shortening the journey,
+and in doing so, shortening the risks of failure by disease, by war, by
+famine, and by mutiny. We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us
+for presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent,
+concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst themselves.
+
+On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western chain;
+but not all together. Some porters, overcome by heat and thirst, lay
+scattered along the road, while the corporal of the Hottentots allowed
+his mule to stray from him, never dreaming the animal would travel far
+from his comrades, and, in following after him, was led such a long way
+into the bush, that my men became alarmed for his safety, knowing as
+they did that the "savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash
+fruit, and looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth
+plundering, that might come in their way. At first the Wanguana
+attempted to track down the corporal; but finding he would not answer
+their repeated shots, and fearful for their own safety, they came into
+camp and reported the case. Losing no time, I ordered twenty men, armed
+with carbines, to carry water for the distressed porters, and bring the
+corporal back as soon as possible. They all marched off, as they always
+do on such exploits, in high good-humour with themselves for the valour
+which they intended to show; and in the evening came in, firing their
+guns in the most reckless manner, beaming with delight; for they had
+the corporal in tow, two men and two women captives, and a spear as a
+trophy. Then in high impatience, all in a breath, they began a recital
+of the great day's work. The corporal had followed on the spoor of the
+mule, occasionally finding some of his things that had been torn from
+the beast's back by the thorns, and, picking up these one by one, had
+become so burdened with the weight of them, that he could follow no
+farther. In this fix the twenty men came up with him, but not until they
+had had a scrimmage with the "savages," had secured four, and taken the
+spear which had been thrown at them. Of the mule's position no one
+could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in consequence of the
+thickness of the bush, he would soon become irretrievably entangled in
+the thicket, where the savages would find him, and bring him in as a
+ransom for the prisoners.
+
+What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of the
+country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in advance, together
+with unwillingness to give up so good a mule, with all its gear and
+ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as to what had better be done,
+until the corporal, who felt confident he would find the beast, begged
+so hard that I sent him in command of another expedition of sixteen men,
+ordering him to take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his
+brethren that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule.
+The corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw traces
+of the animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant and myself went
+out pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting of one striped
+eland, one saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl, four ringdoves, and one
+partridge--a welcome supply, considering we were quite out of flesh.
+
+Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to the
+place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the chase, as I
+heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the party, and straightway
+proceeded to camp. Sure enough, there they were; they had tracked the
+animal back to Marenga Mkhali, through jungle--for he had not taken to
+the footpath. Then finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired
+and famished. To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the
+Robeho (or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules
+and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the brow of
+the hill the following morning, while I remained behind with the tired
+men, promising to join him by breakfast-time. I next released the
+prisoners, much to their disgust, for they had not known such good
+feeding before, and dreaded being turned adrift again in the jungles to
+live on calabash seeds; and then, after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned
+in for the night.
+
+Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good stiff
+ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite, excepting only
+where cleared for villages; and on we went rapidly, until at noon the
+advance party was reached, located in a village overlooking the great
+interior plateau--a picture, as it were, of the common type of African
+scenery. Here, taking a hasty meal, we resumed the march all together,
+descended the great western chain, and, as night set in, camped in a
+ravine at the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station Ugogi,
+where terminate the hills of Usagara.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IV. Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
+
+The Lie of the Country--Rhinoceros-Stalking--Scuffle of Villagers over a
+Carcass--Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors--Buffalo-Shooting--
+Getting Lost--A Troublesome Sultan--Desertions from the Camp--Getting
+Plundered--Wilderness March--Diplomatic Relations with the Local
+Powers--Manua Sera's Story--Christmas--The Relief from Kaze
+
+This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more level
+lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we first stopped to
+breakfast at the quiet little settlement of Inenge, where cattle were
+abundant, but grain so scarce that the villagers were living on calabash
+seeds. Proceeding thence across fields delightfully checkered with
+fine calabash and fig trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny
+jungles, until dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest
+and push on again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline
+water) to breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained.
+Carrying water with us, we next marched half-way to the first settlement
+of Ugogo, and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our store of Mbumi
+grain.
+
+At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were not
+in lands of plenty--for the Wagogo we found, like their neighbours
+Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save their small stores of
+grain.
+
+The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
+crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling ground,
+sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great drain running
+from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters that fall in its
+neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to the sea. To the northward
+can be seen some low hills, which are occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe
+of the warlike Masai; and on the west is the large forest-wilderness of
+Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo, lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills,
+is comparatively sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke
+through the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
+covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing appearance after
+the rains have set in, but are too brown and desert-looking during
+the rest of the year. Large prairies of grass also are exposed in many
+places, and the villagers have laid much ground bare for agricultural
+purposes.
+
+Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with the
+natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the Wasagara,
+carry arms, intended for use rather than show. The men, indeed, are
+never seen without their usual arms--the spear, the shield, and the
+assage. They live in flat-topped, square, tembe villages, wherever
+springs of water are found, keep cattle in plenty, and farm enough
+generally to supply not only their own wants, but those of the thousands
+who annually pass in caravans. They are extremely fond of ornaments,
+the most common of which is an ugly tube of the gourd thrust through the
+lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is a soft ruddy brown, with a slight
+infusion of black, not unlike that of a rich plum. Impulsive by
+nature, and exceedingly avaricious, they pester travellers beyond all
+conception, by thronging the road, jeering, quizzing, and pointing at
+them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their way into the midst of
+the kit, and even into the stranger's tent. Caravans, in consequence,
+never enter their villages, but camp outside, generally under the big
+"gouty-limbed" trees--encircling their entire camp sometimes with a
+ring-fence of thorns to prevent any sudden attack.
+
+To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in Ugogo, very
+little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were mixing their small
+stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of the gouty-limbed tree.
+Water was so scarce in the wells at this season that we had to buy it
+at the normal price of country beer; and, as may be imagined where such
+distress in food was existing, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also
+selling at high rates.
+
+Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way back to
+Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by some Wagogo,
+who took four yards of merikani in advance, with a promise of four more
+on return, for the job--their chief being security for their fidelity.
+This business detained us two days, during which time I shot a new
+variety of florikan, peculiar in having a light blue band stretching
+from the nose over the eye to the occiput. Each day, while we resided
+here, cries were raised by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming,
+and then all the cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were
+driven into the village for protection.
+
+At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a hongo or
+tax of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief, and departed,
+but not until one of my porters, a Mhehe, obtained a fat dog for his
+dinner; he had set his heart on it, and would not move until he had
+killed it, and tied it on to his load for the evening's repast. Passing
+through the next villages--a collection called Kifukuro--we had to pay
+another small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief.
+There we breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac in the
+jungles, as the famine precluded our taking the march more easily.
+
+Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the
+eastern border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye. Here we
+were forced to halt a day, as the mules were done up, and eight of the
+Wanyamuezi porters absconded, carrying with them the best part of their
+loads. There was also another inducement for stopping here; for, after
+stacking the loads, as we usually did on arriving in camp, against a
+large gouty-limbed tree, a hungry Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered
+his services to show us some bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid
+nightly visits to certain bitter pools that lay in the nullah bottoms
+not far off. This exciting intelligence made me inquire if it was not
+possible to find them at once; but, being assured that they lived very
+far off, and that the best chance was the night, I gave way, and settled
+on starting at ten, to arrive at the ground before the full moon should
+rise.
+
+I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each carrying
+a single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to hide until our
+expected visitors should arrive, and there remained until midnight. When
+the hitherto noisy villagers turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her
+light on the desolate scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted.
+He had not, however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the
+horizon line, was the very animal we wanted.
+
+In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected some
+danger in store--and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit of white
+paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him, crawling under
+cover of the banks until within eighty yards of him, when, finding that
+the moon shone full on his flank, I raised myself upright and planted a
+bullet behind his left shoulder. Thus died my first rhinoceros.
+
+To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to cook, as
+well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the villagers for
+grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited again.
+
+After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in the
+same stealthy, fidgety way as the first one. They came even closer than
+the first, but, the moon having passed beyond their meridian, I could
+not obtain so clear a mark. Still they were big marks, and I determined
+on doing my best before they had time to wind us; so stepping out,
+with the sheikh's boys behind me carrying the second rifle to meet all
+emergencies, I planted a ball in the larger one, and brought him round
+with a roar and whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish
+for receiving a second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for the
+spare rifle, I had the mortification to see that both the black boys had
+made off, and were scrambling like monkeys up a tree. At the same time
+the rhinoceros, fortunately for me, on second consideration turned to
+the right-about, and shuffled away, leaving, as is usually the case when
+conical bullets are used, no traces of blood.
+
+Thus ended the night's work. We now went home by dawn to apprise all the
+porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two boys who had
+so shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their heads, described all
+the night's scenes with such capital mimicry as to set the whole camp
+in a roar. We had all now to hurry back to the carcass before the Wagogo
+could find it; but though this precaution was quickly taken, still,
+before the tough skin of the beast could be cut through, the Wagogo
+began assembling like vultures, and fighting with my men. A more savage,
+filthy, disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that
+which followed cannot be conceived. All fell to work armed with swords,
+spears, knives, and hatchets--cutting and slashing, thumping and
+bawling, fighting and tearing, tumbling and wrestling up to their knees
+in filth and blood in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel
+fell to the possession of any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and
+bear off the prize in triumph. All right was now a matter or pure might,
+and lucky it was that it did not end in a fight between our men and
+the villagers. These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered with
+blood, scampering home each with his spoil--a piece of tripe, or liver,
+or lights, or whatever else it might have been his fortune to get off
+with.
+
+We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day, as all
+delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to Magomba's palace
+with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our baggage, each taking one
+cloth as his hire. The chief wazir at once come out to meet me on the
+way, and in an apparently affable manner, as an old friend, begged that
+I would live in the palace--a bait which I did not take, as I knew
+my friend by experience a little too well. He then, in the politest
+possible manner, told me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the
+land--so much so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain. I now
+wished to settle my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such
+indecent haste.
+
+The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one, and I
+must have patience. I took out this time in the jungles very profitably,
+killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a species unknown. These
+animals are much about the same size and shape as the common Indian
+antelope, and, like them, roam about in large herds. The only marked
+difference between the two is in the shape of their horns, as may be
+seen by the woodcut; and in their colour, in which, in both sexes, the
+Ugogo antelopes resemble the picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that
+the former have dark markings on the face.
+
+At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I encountered
+in Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one kisutu, one
+dubani, four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and three yards merikani.
+The wazir then thought he would do some business on his own account, and
+commenced work by presenting me with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at
+the same time "empty words did not show true love," and hoping that I
+would prove mine by making some slight return. To get rid of the animal
+I gave him the full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner
+pocketed than he had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege for
+having shot a lizard on a holy stone, and demanded four cloths to pay
+atonement for this offence against the "church." As yet, he said, the
+chief was not aware of the damage done, and it was well he was not; for
+he would himself, if I only paid him the four cloths, settle matters
+quietly, otherwise there would be no knowing what demands might be made
+on my cloth. It was necessary to get up hot temper, else there was no
+knowing how far he would go; so I returned him his presents, and told
+the sheikh, instead of giving four, to fling six cloths in his face, and
+tell him that the holy-stone story was merely a humbug, and I would take
+care no more white men ever came to see him again.
+
+Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former caravans,
+now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but the Wagogo,
+hearing of their desire, frightened them off it. A report also at this
+time was brought to us, that a caravan had just arrived at our last
+ground, having come up from Whindi, direct by the line of the Wami
+river, in its upper course called Mukondokua, without crossing a single
+hill all the way; I therefore sent three men to see if they had any
+porters to spare, as it was said they had; but the three men, although
+they left their bows and arrows behind, never came back.
+
+Another mule died to-day. This was perplexing indeed, but to stop longer
+was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to a pond at the
+western end of the district where we found a party of Makua sportsmen
+who had just killed an elephant. They had lived in Ugogo one year and
+a half, and had killed in all seventeen elephants; half the tusks of
+which, as well as some portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for
+the privilege of residing there. There were many antelopes there, some
+of which both Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also
+killed a crocute hyena. From the pond we went on to the middle of a
+large jungle, and bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain, the
+second of the season.
+
+During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and quaking
+with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and entered the
+prettiest spot in Ugogo--the populous district of Usekhe--where little
+hills and huge columns of granite crop out. Here we halted.
+
+Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one
+dubani, one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two yards
+kiniki; but whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away, and four
+fresh ones were engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away from Kanyenye.
+
+With one more march from this we reached the last district in Ugogo,
+Khoko. Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to oppose us,
+imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab, Mohinna, because the
+Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered his camp, and drove him back
+to Kaze, for having shot their old chief "Short-legs." They, however, no
+sooner found out who we were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp
+in the outskirts of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness. To this position in
+the bush I strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best
+used against arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field,
+maintaining that the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from their
+villages, as we now were, lest we might cut them off in their retreat.
+
+Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be much
+pleased that we were English, and not Arabs. He told us we might, he
+thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in want of, as many
+Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished to go to their homes;
+and I would only, in addition to their wages, have to pay their "hotel
+bills" to the Wagogo. This, of course, I was ready to do, though I knew
+the Wanyamuezi had paid for themselves, as is usual, by their work in
+the fields of their hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of
+hands, I could scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a
+slave for each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once,
+whilst at the same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us eight
+days in the wilderness, and settle the hongo.
+
+For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which time,
+always eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed
+a bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, with my small
+40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood quietly feeding in the bush; and
+I also shot a bitch fox of the genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened
+cry often alarms the natives by forewarning them of danger. This was
+rather tame sport; but next day I had better fun.
+
+Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said's boys,
+Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot-gun, we
+followed a footpath to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali.
+There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the grunt
+of a buffalo close on my left, I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked
+to where I soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite
+unconscious of my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her;
+then, after reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also. This
+caused great confusion among them; but as none of the animals knew where
+the shots came from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety manner,
+allowing me to kill the first cow, and even fire a fourth shot, which
+sickened the great bull, and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd
+to their fate, who, considerably puzzled, began moving off also.
+
+I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down
+before either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who I knew
+could not go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist
+sandy soil, we soon found the herd again; but as they now knew they were
+pursued, they kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally
+gaining glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the
+bush, I repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some
+less severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern
+shots were not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not
+get a front view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg
+broken pulled up on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down
+with a charge the instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the
+rifle rolled her over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which
+was very soon done; for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led
+us up to another one as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet
+in the flank, and, after hobbling a little, evaded our sight and
+threw himself into a bush, where we not sooner arrived than he plunged
+headlong at us from his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to
+present my small 40-gauge Lancaster.
+
+It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of
+a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately
+over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to
+polish him off. There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant
+more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun,
+and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of
+one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at
+my feet as dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to make
+him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we had done
+enough if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him
+too, we commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant.
+He was passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the glowing
+description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own cowardice
+as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he
+would go back and send us some porters to carry home the game.
+
+Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed the
+blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a
+stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of
+his miseries. Taking compassion, I levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck
+would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went
+"pinging" into the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop. To
+follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes
+more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the great
+beast, from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad
+bull, full of ferocity--as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the
+front of his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately
+stood between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly
+at his flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as
+thought, the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable
+smoke of my gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the
+height of his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that
+I might, had I been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head.
+This was a predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys had both
+bolted, taking with them my guns; but suddenly the beast, evidently
+regarding the smoke as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned
+round in a bustle, to my intense relief, and galloped off at full speed,
+as if scared by some terrible apparition.
+
+O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such a
+good one! Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing as the
+dastardly boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked
+over the scene they had witnessed in security, whilst my life was in
+jeopardy because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now
+came the worst part of the day; for, though rain was falling, I had not
+the heart to relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I thought
+every minute I should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to
+bleed, and in the confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the
+forest we lost our own.
+
+Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track we came
+by in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this luxury was not
+destined to be our lot that night, for the rain had obliterated all our
+footprints of the morning, and we passed the track, mistaking it for the
+run of wild beasts. It struck me we had done so; but say what I would,
+the boys thought they knew better; and the consequence was that, after
+wandering for hours no one knew where--for there was no sun to guide
+us--I pulled up, and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might be
+our fate to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish. We
+were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel very
+miserable from being wet through. What little ammunition I had left I
+fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a fire, but the
+wood would not burn. In this hapless condition the black boys began
+murmuring, wishing to go on, pretending, though both held opposite
+views, that each knew the way; for they thought nothing could be worse
+than their present state of discomfort.
+
+Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder and
+lightning, which set in all around us. At times we thought we heard
+musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to fire signals
+for us; and doubtless we did so, but its sound and the thunder so much
+resembled one another that we distrusted our ears. At any rate, the
+boys mistook the west for the east; and as I thought they had done so, I
+stood firm to one spot, and finally lay down with them to sleep upon
+the cold wet ground, where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed
+occasionally by some animals sniffing at our feet. As the clouds broke
+towards morning, my obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and
+would hardly follow me when tracking down Venus; next up rose the moon
+and then followed the sun, when, as good luck would have it, we struck
+on the track, and walked straight into camp.
+
+Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been making
+the men fire volleys. The little sheikh was warmly congratulatory as
+he spoke of the numbers who had strayed away and had been lost in that
+wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he thought we should turn up again
+if I did not listen to the advice of the boys, which was his only fear.
+Nothing as yet, I now found, had been done to further our march. The
+hongo, the sheikh said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been
+settled, because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the
+plea that it was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also said
+that till then all the Wagogo had been in mourning by ceasing to wear
+all their brass bracelets and other ornaments, and they now wished to
+solemnise the occasion by feasting and renewing their finery. This
+being granted, the next day another pretext for delay was found, by the
+Wahumba having made a raid on their cattle, which necessitated the chief
+and all his men turning out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could
+be attended to, as a party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and
+put them all in a fright. These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired, were
+soldiers of Manua Sera, the "Tippler," who was at war with the Arabs. He
+had been defeated at Mguru, a district in Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and
+had sent these men to cut off the caravan route, as the best way of
+retaliation that lay in his power.
+
+At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani, two
+barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards kiniki (not,
+however, until I had our tents struck, and threatened to march away if
+the chief would not take it), I proposed going on with the journey,
+for our provisions were stored, but when the loads were being lifted,
+I found ten more men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but
+throw ten loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a
+hurry, I simply changed ground to show we were ready to march, and sent
+my men about, either to try to induce the fugitive Wanyamuezi to take
+service with me or else to buy donkeys, as the chief said he had some to
+sell.
+
+We had already been here too long. A report was now spread that a lion
+had killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo, suspecting that our
+being here was the cause of this ill luck, threatened to attack us. This
+no sooner got noised over the camp than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who
+had friends in Ugogo, left to live with them, and would not come back
+again even when the "storm had blown over," because they did not like
+the incessant rains that half deluged the camp. The chief, too, said he
+would not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to Mohinna,
+from whom they were taken during his fight here. Intrigues of all sorts
+I could see were brewing, possibly at the instigation of the fugitive
+Wanyamuezi, who suspected we were bound to side with the Arabs--possibly
+from some other cause, I could not tell what; so, to clear out of this
+pandemonium as soon as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations,
+intending to cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the
+ordinary number of days. I determined at the same time to send forward
+two freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out some
+provisions and men to meet us half-way.
+
+Matters grew worse and worse. The sultan, now finding me unable to move,
+sent a message to say if I would not give him some better cloths to make
+his hongo more respectable, he would attack my camp; and advised all
+the Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives not to go near me if I resisted.
+This was by no means pleasant; for the porters showed their uneasiness
+by extracting their own cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that
+they wished to make some purchases of their own. I ought, perhaps,
+to have stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total
+indifference; so, at the same time that they were allowed to take their
+cloths, I refused to comply with the chief's request, and begged them
+to have no fear so long as they saw I could hold my own ground with my
+guns.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them bolted,
+with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the double-ration
+cloths as well as their own. At this time, the sultan, having changed
+tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand on the defensive, sent back
+his hongo; but, instead of using threats, said he would oblige us with
+donkeys or anything else if we would only give him a few more pretty
+cloths. With this cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until
+the sheikh, still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a
+single man would remain with me. I then told him to settle with the
+chief himself, and give me the account, which amounted to three barsati,
+two sahari, and three yards merikani; but the donkeys were never alluded
+to.
+
+With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly
+opposed to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then passing by
+on his way to the coast, in command of his master's rear detachment. He
+thought it impossible for us to pull through the wilderness, with its
+jungle grasses and roots, depending for food only on Grant's gun and
+my own; still we made half-way to the Mdaburu nullah, taking some
+of Mamba's out to camp with us, as he promised to take letters and
+specimens down to the coast for us, provided I paid him some cloths as
+ready money down, and promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar. These
+letters eventually reached home, but not the specimens.
+
+The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded, but we
+pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left bank. In the
+confusion of the march, however, we lost many more porters, who at the
+same time relieved us of their loads, by slipping off stealthily into
+the bush.
+
+The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so
+violent we could not cross it. To make the best of this very unfortunate
+interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with letters to Musa and
+Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former expedition, begging them
+to send me sixty men, each carrying thirty rations of grain, and some
+country tobacco. The tobacco was to gratify my men, who said of all
+things they most wanted to cheer them was something to smoke. At the
+same time I sent back some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain
+for present consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to
+living on wild herbs and white ants. I then sent all the remaining men,
+under the directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree with
+hatchets, on the banks of the nullah, with a view to bridging it; but
+the tree dropped to the wrong side, and thwarted the plan. The rain
+ceased on the 17th, just as we put the rain-gauge out, which was at
+once interpreted to be our Uganga, or religious charm, and therefore the
+cause of its ceasing. It was the first fine day for a fortnight, so we
+were only too glad to put all our things out to dry, and rejoiced to
+think of the stream's subsiding. My men who went back to Khoko for grain
+having returned with next to nothing--though, of course, they had spent
+all the cloths--I sent back another batch with pretty cloths, as it was
+confidently stated that grain was so scarce there, nothing but the best
+fabrics would but it. This also proved a dead failure; but although
+animals were very scarce, Grant relieved our anxiety by shooting a zebra
+and an antelope.
+
+After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed forwards
+again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day, in the greatest
+possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were compelled to go out
+shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and Bombay went on with the
+first half of the property and then, keeping guard over it sent the men
+back again to Baraka, who kept rear-guard, to have the rest brought
+on. Order there was none: the men hated this "double work;" all the
+Wanyamuezi but three deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men,
+carrying off their loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as
+I found out afterwards, that the coast-men were to go shares in the
+plunder as soon as we reached Unyamuezi. The next great obstacle in this
+tug-and-pull wilderness-march presented itself on the 24th, when, after
+the first half of the property had crossed the Mabunguru nullah, it rose
+in flood and cut off the rear half. It soon, however, subsided; and
+the next day we reached "the Springs," where we killed a pig and two
+rhinoceros. Not content, however, with this fare--notwithstanding the
+whole camp had been living liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh
+every day previously--some of my coast-men bolted on to the little
+settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa, contrary to orders, to purchase some grain;
+and in doing so, increased our transport difficulties.
+
+Pulling on in the same way again--when not actually engaged in shooting,
+scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to the mark, and
+prevent them from shirking their work, which they were for every trying
+to do--we arrived on the 28th at the "Boss," a huge granite block, from
+the top of which the green foliage of the forest-trees looked like an
+interminable cloud, soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell upon. Here
+the patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa la Mkoa
+was only one long march distance from us; and they, in consequence,
+smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild game and wild
+grasses they had been living on; and many more of them could not resist
+deserting us, though they might, had we all pulled together, have gone
+more comfortably in, as soon as the rear property arrived next day with
+Baraka.
+
+All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now came
+into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that those men who
+had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing us a large detachment
+of slaves to help us on. My men had brought no food either for us or
+their friends, as the cloths they took with them, "which were their
+own," were scarcely sufficient to purchase a meal--famines being as bad
+where they had been as in Ugogo. To try and get all the men together
+again, I now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could
+get for us; but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking, with
+nothing but a small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by the dozens.
+Johur then came into camp, unconscious that Baraka by my orders had,
+during his absence, been inspecting his kit, where he found concealed
+seventy-three yards of cloth, which could only have been my property, as
+Johur had brought no akaba or reserve fund from the coast.
+
+The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I ordered
+Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three dozen lashes; but
+after twenty-one had been given, the rest were remitted on his promising
+to turn Queen's evidence, when it transpired that Mutwana had done as
+much as himself. Johur, it turned out, was a murderer, having obtained
+his freedom by killing his master. He was otherwise a notoriously bad
+character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men were
+robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him turned out
+of camp. Baraka was a splendid detective, and could do everything well
+when he wished it, so I sent him off now with cloths to see what he
+could to at Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he returned triumphantly driving
+in cows and goats. Three Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to
+shooting wild animals continually, came with him to offer their services
+as porters.
+
+As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New Year's Day
+with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round Rock--a single tembe
+village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers, who, by their presence and
+domestic habits, made us feel as though we were well out of the wood. So
+indeed we found it; for although this wilderness was formerly an
+entire forest of trees and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly
+occupied the banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven
+to migrate here, wherever they could find springs of water, by the
+boisterous naked pastorals the Warori.
+
+At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole into our
+camp, and said they had been sent by their master to seek for porters at
+Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four large caravans had deserted
+in Ugogo, and they could not move. I was rather pleased by this news,
+and thought it served the merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that
+the Wanyamuezi, being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by
+foreigners on the down march to the coast, would have been honest
+still. Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant
+villages; but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing
+rhinoceros, wild boar, antelope, and zebras. The last of our property
+did not come up till the 5th, when another thief being caught, got fifty
+lashes, under the superintendence of Baraka, to show that punishment was
+only inflicted to prevent further crime.
+
+The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay and
+Musa. They had been detained there some days after arrival, as those
+merchants' slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some quarrel there; but
+as soon as they returned, Musa ordered them to go and assist us, giving
+them beads to find rations for themselves on the way, as the whole
+country about Kaze had been half-starved by famines, though he did send
+a little rice and tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together;
+but on arrival at Tura the slaves said they had not enough beads and
+would return for some more, when they would follow my men. This bit
+of news was the worst that could have befallen us; my men were
+broken-hearted enough before, and this drove the last spark of spirit
+out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now sent Bombay with two
+other men off to Musa to see what he could do, and ordered my other
+men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. On the 7th, a nervous
+excitement was produced in the camp by some of my men running in and
+calling all to arm, as the fugitive chief Manua Sera was coming, with
+thirty armed followers carrying muskets. Such was the case: and by the
+time my men were all under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn
+up by my tent the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look
+of such a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short
+way, and then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of
+calling on me, which was no sooner complied with than he came in person,
+attended by a body-guard. On my requesting him to draw near and sit, his
+wooden stool was placed for him. He began the conversation by telling
+me he had heard of my distress from want of porters, and then offered
+to assist me with some, provided I would take him to Kaze, and mediate
+between him and the Arabs; for, through their unjustifiable interference
+in his government affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the
+Arabs driving him from his possessions a vagabond. Manua Sera, I
+must say, was as fine a young man as ever I looked upon. He was very
+handsome, and looked as I now saw him the very picture of a captain of
+the banditti of the romances. I begged him to tell me his tale, and, in
+compliance, he gave me the following narrative:--
+
+"Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late chief
+Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief; for, though
+the son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's wife, such is the
+law of inheritance--a constitutional policy established to prevent any
+chance of intrigues between the sons born in legitimate wedlock. Well,
+after assuming the title of chief, I gave presents of ivory to all
+the Arabs with a liberal hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great
+jealousy amongst the other merchants. Then after this I established a
+property tax on all merchandise that entered my country. Fundi Kira had
+never done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not,
+especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my country
+exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated the Arabs, and
+induced them to send me hostile messages, to the effect that, if I ever
+meddled with them, they would dethrone me, and place Mkisiwa, another
+illegitimate son, on the throne in my stead. This," Manua Sera
+continued, "I could not stand; the merchants were living on sufferance
+only in my country. I told them so, and defied them to interfere with my
+orders, for I was not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this
+got up a quarrel. Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held
+out to him by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a system of
+bribery. Words led to blows; we had a long and tough fight; I killed
+many of their number, and they killed mine. Eventually they drove
+me from my palace, and placed Mkisiwa there as chief in my stead. My
+faithful followers however, never deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and
+put up with old Maula there. The Arabs followed--drove me to Nguru, and
+tried to kill Maula for having fostered me. He, however, escaped them;
+but they destroyed his country, and then followed me down to Nguru.
+There we fought for many months, until all provisions were exhausted,
+when I defied them to catch me, and forced my way through their ranks.
+It is needless to say I have been a wanderer since; and though I wish to
+make friends, they will not allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to
+death. Now, as you were a friend of my father, I do hope you will patch
+up this war for me, which you must think is unjust."
+
+I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my best if
+he would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could ever be done
+unless he returned to the free-trade principles of his father. He then
+said he had never taken a single tax from the Arabs, and would gladly
+relinquish his intention to do so. The whole affair was commenced in too
+great a hurry; but whatever happened he would gladly forgive all if I
+would use my influence to reinstate him, for by no other means could he
+ever get his crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I
+could to restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as all
+the ivory that went out of his country, came to ours, and all imports
+were productions of our country also, this war injured us as well as
+himself. Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said he had a little
+business to transact in Ugogo at present, but he would overtake me in a
+few days. He then sent me one of my runaway porters, whom he had caught
+in the woods making off with a load of my beads. We then separated; and
+Baraka, by my orders, gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence
+of theft and desertion.
+
+On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we left
+Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi, where, to
+my surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes--a recently-formed
+settlement of Wokimbu. Here we halted a day for the rear convoy, and
+then went on again by detachments to Zimbo, where, to our intense
+delight, Bombay returned to us on the 13th, triumphantly firing guns,
+with seventy slaves accompanying him, and with letters from Snay and
+Musa, in which they said they hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that
+I would either put a bullet through his head, or else bring him in a
+prisoner, that they might do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed
+all their trade by cutting off caravans. Their fights with him commenced
+by his levying taxes in opposition to their treaties with his father,
+Fundi Kira, and then preventing his subjects selling them grain.
+
+Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of the
+seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their masters, in the
+simple matter of expenditure it would have been better had I thrown ten
+loads away at Ugogo, where my difficulties first commenced. On arrival
+at Mgongo Thembo--the Elephant's Back--called so in consequence of a
+large granitic rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding
+through the ground--we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles
+in extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the
+fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula. This poor old man--one of the honestest
+chiefs in the country--had been to the former expedition a host and good
+friend. He now gave me a cow as a present, and said he would give me
+ten more if I would assist him in making friends with the Arabs, who
+had driven him out of his country, and had destroyed all his belongings,
+even putting a slave to reign in his stead, though he had committed no
+fault of intentional injury towards them. It was true Manua Sera, their
+enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his fault; for,
+anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he did his best to keep
+Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being too strong for him, forced
+his way in. I need not say I tried to console this unfortunate victim of
+circumstances as best I could, inviting him to go with me to Kaze, and
+promising to protect him with my life if he feared the Arabs; but the
+old man, being too feeble to travel himself, said he would send his son
+with me.
+
+Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and reached
+a nullah. As it crosses the track in a southerly direction, this might
+either be the head of the Kululu mongo or river, which, passing through
+the district of Kiwele, drains westward into the Malagarazi river, and
+thence into the Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the
+Ruaha river, draining eastward into the sea. The plateau, however,
+is apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or rather
+following the watercourse, could determine the matter. Then emerging
+from the wilderness, we came into the open cultivated district of Tura,
+or "put down"--called so by the natives because it was, only a few years
+ago, the first cleared space in the wilderness, and served as a good
+halting-station, after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where
+we had now been struggling more than a month.
+
+The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and in a
+sad state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of war; for the
+Arabs and their slaves, when they take the field, think more of plunder
+and slavery than the object they started on--each man of the force
+looking out for himself. The incentives, too, are so great;--a young
+woman might be caught (the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or
+a girl, a cow or a goat--all of the fortunes, of themselves too
+irresistible to be overlooked when the future is doubtful. Here Sheikh
+Said broke down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered
+from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover sufficiently
+well to be ever effective again. It was a sad misfortune, as the men
+had great confidence in him, being the representative of their Zanzibar
+government: still it could not be helped; for, as a sick man is, after
+all, the greatest possible impediment to a march, it was better to be
+rid of him than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind,
+as soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. He
+could not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain and put
+up in some villages on its western side. Whilst waiting for the sheikh's
+arrival, some villagers at night stole several loads of beads, and ran
+off with them; but my men, finding the theft out in time, hunted them
+down, and recovered all but one load--for the thieves had thrown their
+loads down as soon as they found they were hotly pursued.
+
+Early this morning I called all the head men of the village together,
+and demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I was living with
+them, they were responsible, according to the laws of the country. They
+acknowledged the truth and force of my demand, and said they would each
+give me a cow as an earnest, until their chief, who was absent, arrived.
+This, of course, was objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must
+have deputed some one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle
+at once, that I might proceed with the march. Then selecting five of
+my head men to conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was
+considered my losses were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. As I
+remitted the penalty to fifteen head, these were made over to me, and
+we went on with the march--all feeling delighted with the issue but the
+Hottentots, who, not liking the loss of the second fifteen cows, said
+that in Kafirland, where the laws of the country are the same as here,
+the whole would have been taken, and, as it was, they thought I was
+depriving them of their rights to beef.
+
+By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a pole, we
+now made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing the road to the
+northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi river, and thence into
+the Tanganyika lake. Thence, having spent the night in the jungle, we
+next morning pushed into the cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up
+in some half-deserted tembes, where the ravages of war were even more
+disgusting to witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a
+slave, placed there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow
+all traders and travellers to help themselves without payment as long as
+they chose to reside there. In consequence of this wicked arrangement,
+I found it impossible to keep my men from picking and stealing. They
+looked upon plunder as their fortune and right, and my interference as
+unjustifiable.
+
+By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the western
+extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after sleeping the night,
+we threaded through another forest to the little clearance of Kigue,
+and in one more march through forest arrived in the large and fertile
+district of Unyanyembe, the centre of Unyamuezi--the Land of the
+Moon--within five miles of Kaze which is the name of a well in the
+village of Tbora, now constituted the great central slave and ivory
+merchants' depot. My losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:--One
+Hottentot dead and five returned; one freeman sent back with the
+Hottentots, and one flogged and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan
+Majid's gardeners deserted; ninety-eight of the original Wanyamuezi
+porters deserted; twelve mules and three donkeys dead. Besides which,
+more than half of my property had been stolen; whilst the travelling
+expenses had been unprecedented, in consequence of the severity of the
+famine throughout the whole length of the march.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter V. Unyamuezi
+
+The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi--Kaze, the Capital--Old Musa--The
+Naked Wakidi--The N'yanza, and the Question of the River Running in or
+out--The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-legs"--Famine--The Arabs and
+Local Wars--The Sultana of Unyambewa--Ungurue "The Pig"--Pillage.
+
+U-n-ya-muezi--Country of Moon--must have been one of the largest
+kingdoms in Africa. It is little inferior in size to England, and of
+much the same shape, though now, instead of being united, it is cut
+up into petty states. In its northern extremities it is known by
+the appellation U-sukuma--country north; and in the southern,
+U-takama--country south. There are no historical traditions known to the
+people; neither was anything ever written concerning their country,
+as far as we know, until the Hindus, who traded with the east coast of
+Africa, opened commercial dealings with its people in salves and ivory,
+possibly some time prior to the birth of our Saviour, when, associated
+with their name, Men of the Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of
+the Moon. These Men of the Moon are hereditarily the greatest traders in
+Africa, and are the only people who, for love of barter and change, will
+leave their own country as porters and go to the coast, and they do so
+with as much zest as our country-folk go to a fair. As far back as we
+can trace they have done this, and they still do it as heretofore.
+The whole of their country ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the
+sea-level--a high plateau, studded with little outcropping hills of
+granite, between which, in the valleys, there are numerous fertilising
+springs of fresh water, and rich iron ore is found in sandstone.
+Generally industrious--much more so than most other negroes--they
+cultivate extensively, make cloths of cotton in their own looms, smelt
+iron and work it up very expertly, build tembes to live in over a large
+portion of their country, but otherwise live in grass huts, and keep
+flocks and herds of considerable extent.
+
+The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in physical
+appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo or the Wagogo,
+though many of their men are handsome and their women pretty; neither
+are they well dressed or well armed, being wanting in pluck and
+gallantry. Their women, generally, are better dressed than the men.
+Cloths fastened round under the arms are their national costume, along
+with a necklace of beads, large brass or copper wire armlets, and
+a profusion of thin circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's
+tail-hairs bound round by the thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the
+men at home wear loin-cloths, but in the field, or whilst travelling,
+simply hang a goat-skin over their shoulders, exposing at least
+three-fourths of their body in a rather indecorous manner. In all other
+respects they ornament themselves like the women, only, instead of a
+long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content themselves with having
+massive rings of copper or brass on the wrist; and they carry for arms a
+spear and bow and arrows. All extract more or less their lower incisors,
+and cut a [upside-down V shape] between their two upper incisors. The
+whole tribe are desperate smokers, and greatly given to drink.
+
+On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the
+merchant's depot, S. lat. 5 deg. 0' 52", and E. long. 33 deg. 1' 34", [7]
+escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided us into his tembe,
+where he begged we would reside with him until we could find men to
+carry our property on to Karague. He added that he would accompany
+us; for he was on the point of going there when my first instalment of
+property arrived, but deferred his intention out of respect to myself.
+He had been detained at Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence
+of the Arabs having provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was
+adverse. For a long time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the
+Arabs, jealous of the favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference
+to themselves, basely accused him of supplying Manua Sera with
+gunpowder, and bound him hand and foot "like a slave." It was delightful
+to see old Musa's face again, and the supremely hospitable, kind, and
+courteous manner in which he looked after us, constantly bringing in all
+kind of small delicacies, and seeing that nothing was wanting to make us
+happy. All the property I had sent on in advance he had stored away; or
+rather, I should say, as much as had reached him, for the road expenses
+had eaten a great hole in it.
+
+Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole conclave of
+Arab merchants came to call on me. They said they had an army of four
+hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to take the field at once to
+hunt down Manua Sera, who was cutting their caravan road to pieces,
+and had just seized, by their latest reports, a whole convoy of their
+ammunition. I begged them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my
+advice as an old soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such
+a headlong hurry, else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as we
+had been by Tantia Topee in India. I advised them to allow me to mediate
+between them, after telling them what a favourable interview I had had
+with Manua Sera and Maula, whose son was at that moment concealed in
+Musa's tembe. My advice, however, was not wanted. Snay knew better than
+any one how to deal with savages, and determined on setting out as soon
+as his army had "eaten their beef-feast of war."
+
+On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the N'yanza
+was the source of the Jub river [8] as he did in our former journey, but
+gave way when I told him that vessels frequented the Nile, as this also
+coincided with his knowledge of navigators in vessels appearing on some
+waters to the northward of Unyoro. In a great hurry he then bade
+me good-bye; when, as he thought it would be final, I gave him, in
+consideration of his former good services to the last expedition, one of
+the gold watches given me by the Indian Government. I saw him no more,
+though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows, goats, and
+rice, with a notice that they should have gone on their war-oath before,
+only, hearing of my arrival, out of due respect to my greatness they
+waited to welcome me in. Further, after doing for Manua Sera, they were
+determined to go on to Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other
+merchants on, during which, at the same time, they would fight all the
+Wagogo who persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans. At the
+advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old chief
+how sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not even effect
+an arrangement with them. It was a great pity; for Manua Sera was so
+much liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had they been able, have done
+anything to restore him.
+
+Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station, headed
+by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their respects again,
+recognising in me, as they said, a "personification of their sultan,"
+and therefore considering what they were doing only due to my rank. They
+regretted with myself that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves
+thought a treaty of peace would have been the best thing for them, for
+they were more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the
+future. Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written
+and lectured in England concerning his stories about navigators on the
+N'yanza, which I explained must be the Nile, and wished to know if I
+should alter it in any way: but he said, "Do not; you may depend it will
+all turn out right;" to which Musa added, all the people in the north
+told him that when the N'yanza rose, the stream rushed with such
+violence it tore up islands and floated them away.
+
+I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both the lake
+and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza: but we shall
+see afterwards that he was right; and it was in consequence of this
+confusion in the treatment of distinctly different geographical features
+under one common name by these people, that in my former journey I
+could not determine where the lake had ended and the Nile began. Abdulla
+again--he had done so on the former journey--spoke to me of a wonderful
+mountain to the northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could
+ascend it. It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds,
+where white matter, snow or hail, often fell. Musa said this hill was in
+Ruanda, a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both men
+said, as they had said before, that the lands of Usoga and Unyoro were
+islands, being surrounded by water; and a salt lake, which was called
+N'yanza, though not the great Victoria N'yanza lay on the other said of
+the Unyoro, from which direction Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes
+got beads forwarded to him by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different
+sort from any brought from Zanzibar. Moreover, these beads were said to
+have been plundered from white men by the Wakidi,--a stark-naked people
+who live up in trees--have small stools fixed on behind, always ready
+for sitting--wear their hair hanging down as far as the rump, all
+covered with cowrie-shells--suspend beads from wire attached to their
+ears and their lower lips--and wear strong iron collars and bracelets.
+
+This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe can
+stand against them, though they only fight with short spears. When this
+discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the Tanganyika being a still
+lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other old friends what they thought
+about the Marungu river: did it run into or out of the lake? and they
+all still adhered to its running into the lake--which, after all, in my
+mind, is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake,
+making it one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through
+it by the Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey
+said the Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the Kitangule
+ran out of the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even though Snay said
+he thought the Jub river drained the N'yanza. All these statements
+were, when literally translated into English, the reverse of what
+the speakers, using a peculiar Arab idiom, meant to say; for all the
+statements made as to the flow of rivers by the negroes--who apparently
+give the same meaning to "out" and "in" as we do--contradicted the Arabs
+in their descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers.
+
+Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with
+Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko. About a year ago, as he was making
+his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on arrival at
+Khoko, and before his camp was fortified with a ring-fence of thorns,
+some of his men went to drink at a well, where they no sooner arrived
+than the natives began to bean them with sticks, claiming the well as
+their property. This commenced a row, which brought out a large body
+of men, who demanded a bullock at the point of their spears. Mohinna
+hearing this, also came to the well, and said he would not listen to
+their demand, but would drink as he wished, for the water was the gift
+of God. Words then changed to blows. All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and
+his merchandise fell into the hands of the Wagogo. Had his camp been
+fortified, he think he would have been too much for his enemies; but,
+as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs in the head, and at once
+bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as followers, and his three wives.
+
+The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left it was
+quite surprising. Instead of the Arabs appearing merchants, as they
+did formerly, they looked more like great farmers, with huge stalls of
+cattle attached to their houses; whilst the native villages were all
+in ruins--so much so that, to obtain corn for my men, I had to send out
+into the district several days' journey off, and even then had to pay
+the most severe famine prices for what I got. The Wanyamuezi, I was
+assured, were dying of starvation in all directions; for, in addition
+to the war, the last rainy season had been so light, all their crops had
+failed.
+
+27th and 28th.--I now gave all my men presents for the severe trials
+they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I told them, the
+merciless manner in which they had plundered me; but as I have a trifle
+more in proportion, to the three sole remaining pagazis, because they
+had not finished their work, my men were all discontented, and wished
+to throw back their presents, saying I did not love them, although they
+were "perminents," as much as the "temperaries." They, however, gave
+in, after some hours of futile arguments, on my making them understand,
+through Baraka, that what they saw me give to the pagazis would, if they
+reflected, only tend to prove to them that I was not a bad master who
+forgot his obligations when he could get no more out of his servants.
+
+I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey northward
+to Karague; and as he said there were no men to be found in or near
+Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or engaged in the war, it
+was settled he should send some of his head men on to Rungua, where he
+had formerly resided, trading for some years, and was a great favourite
+with the chief of the place, by name Kiringuana. He also settled that
+I might take out of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could
+induce to go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit,
+hired porters being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of
+great advantage to him, as I offered to pay, both man and master, each
+the same monthly stipend as I gave my present men. This was paying
+double, and all the heavier a burden, as the number I should require to
+complete my establishment to one hundred armed men would be sixty. He,
+however, very generously advised me not to take them, as they would give
+so much trouble; but finally gave way when I told him I felt I could
+not advance beyond Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives
+there--a view in which he concurred.
+
+29th and 30th.--Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-partner of
+Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and described the
+whole country to be in the most dreadful state of famine. Wanyamuezi
+were lying about dead from starvation in all directions, and he did not
+think we should ever get through Usui, as Suwarora, the chief, was so
+extortionate he would "tear us to pieces"; but advised our waiting until
+the war was settled, when all the Arabs would combine and go with us.
+Musa even showed fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should
+send some men to Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him,
+and begging, at the same time, he would use his influence in preventing
+our being detained in Usui.
+
+I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large kingdom,
+governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood. At his death, which took
+place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's father), the kingdom
+was contested by his two sons, Rohinda and Suwarora, but, at the
+intercession of Dagara, was divided--Rohinda taking the eastern, called
+Ukhanga, and Suwarora the western half of the country, called Usui. This
+measure made Usui feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of
+the extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they
+were recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the savage
+extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of Karague, who kept
+up the most amicable relations with every one who visited him.
+
+Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and on the
+other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's throne
+for him against an insurrection got up by his younger brother
+Rogero, Rumanika, always regarding Musa as his saviour, never lost an
+opportunity to show his gratitude, and would have done anything that
+Musa might have asked him. Of this matter, however, more in Karague.
+
+31st.--To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when Mohinna
+was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin Osman, Mohinna's
+brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and, combining forces, attack
+Hori Hori, hoping to recover their losses; for it appeared to them the
+time had now come when their only hope left in carrying their trade to
+a successful issue, lay in force of arms. They would therefore not rest
+satisfied until they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force,
+to acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the Ramazan,
+when they would return with all the merchants detained in Ugogo, and,
+again combining their forces, they would fall on Usui, to reduce that
+country also.
+
+When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in commotion. He
+was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men previously in his wild
+excesses, and had been tied up; but now, breaking loose again, he swore
+he would not be satisfied until he killed some "big man." His strength
+was so great no one could confine him, though they hunted him into a
+hut, where, having seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to
+put hands on him. Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission
+and a better state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the
+African is much give to such mental fits of aberration at certain
+periods: these are generally harmless, but sometimes not; but they come
+and they go again without any visible cause.
+
+1st.--Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring all the
+porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon. We found that this
+would be early enough, for all the members of the expedition, excepting
+myself, were suffering from the effects of the wilderness life--some
+with fever, some with scurvy, and some with ophthalmia--which made
+it desirable they should all have rest. Little now was done besides
+counting out my property, and making Sheikh Said, who became worse and
+worse, deliver his charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good. When
+it was found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles,
+I was obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per cent,
+which he said was their value here, over the market price of Zanzibar.
+I also got him to have all my coils of brass and copper wire made into
+bracelet, as is customary, to please the northern people.
+
+7th.--To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera was on
+his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh Snay's army
+came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a tembe. Hearing this,
+Snay, instead of attacking the village at once, commenced negotiations
+with the chief of the place by demanding him to set free his
+guest, otherwise they, the Arabs, would storm the tembe. The chief,
+unfortunately, did not comply at once, but begged grace for one night,
+saying that if Manua Sera was found there in the morning they might do
+as they liked. Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura
+people all under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set
+at them in earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of the
+district. Then, whilst Arabs were sending in their captures of women,
+children, and cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district called Dara,
+where he formed an alliance with its chief, Kifunja, and boasted he
+would attack Kaze as soon as the travelling season commenced, when the
+place would be weakened by the dispersion of the Arabs on their ivory
+excursions.
+
+The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the Arabs
+again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had done in not
+listening to me before, and wished to know if I could not now treat for
+them with Manua Sera, which they thought could be easily managed, as
+Manua Sera himself was not only the first to propose mediation, but was
+actually on his way here for the purpose when Snay opposed him. I said
+nothing could give me greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put
+a stop to these horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far.
+Snay, in opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be
+recalled and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the risk
+of committing myself to a position I could not maintain. To this they
+replied that the majority were still at Kaze, all wishing for peace at
+any price, and that whatever terms I might wish to dictate they would
+agree to. Then I said, "What would you do with Mkisiwa? you have made
+him chief, and cannot throw him over." "Oh, that," they said, "can be
+easily managed; for formerly, when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we
+offered to give him as much territory as his father governed, though not
+exactly in the same place; but he treated our message with disdain, not
+knowing then what a fix he was in. Now, however, as he has seen more,
+and wishes for peace himself, there can be no difficulty." I then
+ordered two of my men to go with two of Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera
+with what we were about, and to know his views on the subject; but these
+men returned to say Manua Sera could not be found, for he was driven
+from "pillar to post" by the different native chiefs, as, wherever he
+went, his army ate up their stores, and brought nothing but calamities
+with them. Thus died this second attempted treaty. Musa then told me it
+was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never believe the Arabs,
+as they had broken faith so often before, even after exchanging blood by
+cutting incision in one another's legs--the most sacred bond or oath the
+natives know of.
+
+As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to have a
+week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an old friend,
+Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured me that the sable
+antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I had not yet seen, inhabited
+some low swampy place called N'yama, or "Meat," not far distant, on the
+left bank of the Wale nullah. My companion unfortunately got fever here,
+and was prevented from going out, and I did little better; for although
+I waded up to my middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only
+bagged one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that
+some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and roared so
+violently that they told us the story. The first thing in the morning I
+wished to have at them; but they took the hint of daybreak to make off,
+and left me only the half of the animal. I saw only one sable antelope.
+We all went back to Kaze, arriving there on the 24th.
+
+25th to 13th.--Days rolled on, and nothing was done in
+particular--beyond increasing my stock of knowledge of distant places
+and people, enlarging my zoological collection, and taking long series
+of astronomical observations--until the 13th, when the whole of Kaze was
+depressed by a sad scene of mourning and tears. Some slaves came in that
+night--having made their way through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the
+track to save themselves from detection--and gave information that Snay,
+Jafu, and five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number
+of slaves. The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the
+positions were so complicated nobody knew what to do. At first the Arabs
+achieved two brilliant successes, having succeeded in killing Hori Hori
+of Khoko, when they recovered their ivory, made slaves of all they
+could find, and took a vast number of cattle; then attacking Usekhe they
+reduced that place to submission by forcing a ransom out of its people.
+At this period, however, they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000
+dollars' worth of property, had been cut up by the people of Mzanza,
+a small district ten miles north of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to
+Kanyenye to relieve the caravans which were waiting there for them, they
+foolishly divided their forces into three parts. Of these they sent
+one to take their loot back to Kaze, another to form a reserve force
+at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the wilderness, and a third, headed
+by Snay and Jafu, to attack Mzanza. At the first onset Snay and Jafu
+carried everything before them, and became so excited over the amount of
+their loot that they lost all feelings of care or precaution.
+
+In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned their
+momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba, having heard
+the cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and both together fell
+on the Arab force with such impetuosity that the former victors were
+now scattered in all directions. Those who could run fast enough were
+saved--the rest were speared to death by the natives. Nobody knew how
+Jafu fell; but Snay, after running a short distance, called one of his
+slaves, and begged him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up
+with you; keep this gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and
+take my chance." He never was seen again. But this was not all their
+misfortunes; for the slaves who brought in this information had met the
+first detachment, sent with the Khoko loot, at Kigua, where, they said,
+the detachment had been surprised by Manua Sera, who, having fortified a
+village with four hundred men, expecting this sort of thing, rushed out
+upon them, and cut them all up.
+
+The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to me
+again in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were utterly
+undone. Manua Sera prevented their direct communication with their
+detachment at Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from their caravans at
+Kanyenye by the Mzanza people, and in fact all the Wagogo; so they hoped
+at least I would not forsake them, which they heard I was going to do,
+as Manua Sera had also threatened to attack Kaze. I then told them,
+finally that their proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty
+to perform as well as themselves, and in a day or two I should be off.
+
+14th to 17th.--On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in from
+Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one hundred and
+twenty, and brought them to within ten miles of this, when some
+travellers frightened all but thirty-nine away, by telling them, "Are
+you such fools as to venture into Kaze now? all the Arabs have been
+killed, or were being cut up and pursued by Manua Sera." This sad
+disappointment threw me on my "beam-ends." For some reason or other none
+of Musa's slaves would take service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from
+leaving the place, as it was already too short of hands. To do the best
+under these circumstances, I determined on going to Rungua with what kit
+could be carried, leaving Bombay behind with Musa until such time as I
+should arrive there, and, finding more men, could send them back for
+the rest. I then gave Musa the last of the gold watches the Indian
+Government had given me; [9] and, bidding Sheikh Said take all our
+letters and specimens back to the coast as soon as the road was found
+practicable, set out on the march northwards with Grant and Baraka, and
+all the rest of my men who were well enough to carry loads, as well as
+some of Musa's head men, who knew where to get porters.
+
+After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the village of
+Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found several officers
+there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of soldiers to take the field
+with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua Sera; to effect which, they walked
+about ringing bells, and bawling out that if a certain percentage of all
+the inhabitants did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and
+their plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of
+ration allowances. To find themselves food with, I had given them all
+one necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze, in lieu of
+cloth, which hitherto had been served out for that purpose. It was
+a very liberal allowance, because the Arabs never gave more than one
+necklace to every three men, and that, too, of inferior quality to what
+I served. I brought them to at last by starvation, and then we went
+on. Dipping down into a valley between two clusters of granitic hills,
+beautifully clothed with trees and grass, studded here and there with
+rich plantations, we entered the district of Usagari, and on the second
+day forded the Gombe nullah again--in its upper course, called Kuale.
+
+Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked into the
+boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was my old friend
+the late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid. Immediately on our entering
+her palace, she came forward to meet me with the most affable air of a
+princess, begged I would always come to her as I did then, and sought to
+make every one happy and comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died
+well stricken in years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her
+country invited Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about
+the rights of succession; and it was better a prince, whom they thought
+best suited by birth and good qualities, should head their warriors, and
+keep all in order. At that moment Singinya was out in the field fighting
+his enemies; and she was sure, when he heard I was here, that he would
+be very sorry he had missed seeing me.
+
+We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a village
+there, on approaching which all the villagers turned out to resist us,
+supposing we were an old enemy of theirs. They flew about brandishing
+their spears, and pulling their bows in the most grotesque attitudes,
+alarming some of my porters so much that they threw down their loads and
+bolted. All the country is richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that
+time was the only grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now
+been left behind, and instead the villagers lived in small collections
+of grass huts, surrounded by palisades of tall poles.
+
+Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the
+proprietor of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called Sangoro. He
+had a large collection of women here, but had himself gone north with a
+view to trade in Karague. Report, however, assured us that he was then
+detained in Usui by Suwarora, its chief, on the plea of requiring his
+force of musketeers to prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country,
+for these Watuta lived entirely on plunder of other people's cattle.
+
+With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and cultivation,
+studded here and there with small hills of granite, we forded the Qaunde
+nullah--a tributary to the Gombe--and entered the rich flat district of
+Mininga, where the gingerbread-palm grows abundantly. The greatest man
+we found here was a broken-down ivory merchant called Sirboko, who gave
+us a good hut to live in. Next morning, I believe at the suggestion of
+my Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to stop there; for
+he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the Watuta, and this
+place could afford porters better than it. To all appearance this was
+the case, for this district was better cultivated than any place I had
+seen. I also felt a certain inclination to stop, as I was dragging on
+sick men, sorely against my feelings; and I also thought I had better
+not go farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing wrong
+in not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who were
+with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as they had
+lately come from Rungua. On their confirming Sirboki's story, and
+advising my stopping, I acceded to their recommendation, and immediately
+gave Musa's men orders to look out for porters.
+
+Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing there
+was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had changed my
+mind, and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when the time came,
+not one of our porters could be seen. There was now no help for it; so,
+taking it coolly, I gave Musa's men presents, begged them to look sharp
+in getting the men up, and trusted all would end well in the long-run.
+Sirboko's attentions were most warm and affecting. He gave us cows,
+rice, and milk, with the best place he had to live in, and looked after
+us as constantly and tenderly as if he had been our father. It seemed
+quite unjust to harbour any suspicion against him.
+
+He gave the following account of himself:--He used to trade in ivory, on
+account of some Arabs at Zanzibar. On crossing Usui, he once had a fight
+with one of the chiefs of the country and killed him; but he got through
+all right, because the natives, after two or three of their number had
+been killed, dispersed, and feared to come near his musket again. He
+visited Uganda when the late king Sunna was living, and even traded
+Usoga; but as he was coming down from these northern countries he lost
+all his property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in,
+which drove him down here a ruined man. As it happened, however, he put
+up with the chief of this district, Ugali--Mr Paste--at a time when the
+Watuta attacked the place and drove all the inhabitants away. The chief,
+too, was on the point of bolting, when Sirboko prevented him by saying,
+"If you will only have courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come
+near--at any rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta
+at that time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills
+overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they soon
+walked away, and left them in peace. In return for this magnanimity,
+and feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then built the large
+enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now living in. Sirboko, afraid
+to return to the coast lest he should be apprehended for debt, has
+resided here ever since, doing odd jobs for other traders, increasing
+his family, and planting extensively. His agricultural operations are
+confined chiefly to rice, because the natives do not like it enough to
+be tempted to steal it.
+
+25th to 2d.--I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and drawing, until
+the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred men, whom I sent on
+to Kaze at once with my specimens and letters, directing Musa and Bombay
+to come on and join us immediately. Whilst waiting for these men's
+return, one of Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous
+manner cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my
+lord), take pity on me! When I was a free man I saw you at Uvira, on the
+Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since then the Watuta, in a
+fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and left me for dead, when I was
+seized by the people, sold to the Arabs, and have been in chains ever
+since. Oh, I saw, Bana wangi, if you would only liberate me I would
+never run away, but would serve you faithfully all my life." This
+touching appeal was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up
+Sirboko, and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he
+should be no loser; and the release was effected. He was then christened
+Farham (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the rest of my freed
+men. I then inquired if it was true the Wabembe were cannibals, and
+also circumcised. In one of their slaves the latter statement was easily
+confirmed. I was assure that he was not a cannibal; for the whole tribe
+of Wabembe, when they cannot get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to
+their neighbours for a sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the
+best of all. No other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai,
+and their cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and
+even the Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise.
+
+On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my rear
+property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the old man. By
+a letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my leaving Kaze, the
+Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the position of Manua Sera
+at Kigue, and forced him to take flight again. Afterwards the Arabs,
+returning to Kaze, found Musa preparing to leave. Angry at this attempt
+to desert them, they persuaded him to give up his journey north for the
+present; so that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public
+auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but
+privately said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his rice was
+cut. Adding a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said pressed me to go on
+with the journey as fast as possible, because all the Arabs had accused
+me of conspiring with Manua Sera, and would turn against me unless I
+soon got away.
+
+2d to 30th.--Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the 22d I
+sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind. I had given him, as a
+present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as well as a watch and
+a good sum of money, and advised his coming on at once, for the porters
+who had just brought in my rear property would not take pay to go on to
+Karague; and so I was detained again, waiting whilst his head man went
+to Rungua to look for more. Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's
+arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months in Usui
+by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity of property,
+and oppressed them so that all their porters ran away. Now, slight as
+this little affair might appear, it was of vital importance to me, as I
+found all my men shaking their heads and predicting what might happen to
+us when we got there; so, as a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another
+letter to Musa, offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying
+muskets as would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered
+to pay them what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d) the
+chief Ugali came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-looking young
+man, about thirty years old, the husband of thirty wives, but he had
+only three children. Much surprised at the various articles composing
+our kit, he remarked that our "sleeping-clothes"--blankets--were much
+better than his royal robes; but of all things that amused him most were
+our picture-books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf.
+
+Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following day
+(24th) Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were "out." They
+had just seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and the people were in
+such a state of alarm they dared not leave their homes and families. I
+knew not what to do, for there was no hope left but in what Baraka might
+bring; and as that even would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into
+Kaze, to increase the original number by thirty men more.
+
+Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly until
+the 30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a letter from Kaze,
+stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been very insolent both to
+Musa and to Sheikh Said. The bearer of the letter was at once to go and
+search for porters at Rungua, but not a word was said about the armed
+men I had ordered. At the same time reports from the other side came in,
+to the effect that the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta
+to join them, and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in
+consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to take
+were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of savages, who had
+laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to Usui on their west
+flank, that not a soul dared leave his home. I could now only suppose
+that this foolish and hasty determination of the Arabs, who, quite
+unprepared to carry out their wicked alliance to fight, still had set
+every one against their own interests as well as mine, had not reached
+Musa, so I made up my mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all
+matters I had in my heart with himself and the Arabs in person.
+
+This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined on
+sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them, though
+still wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had not the power
+to continue the march, for they had never ceased suffering from fever
+and jaundice, which had made them all yellow as guineas, save one, who
+was too black to change colour. It felt to me as if I were selling my
+children, having once undertaken to lead them through the journey;
+but if I did not send them back then, I never could afterwards, and
+therefore I allowed the more substantial feelings of humanity to
+overcome these compunctions.
+
+Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some men to
+escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a dozen men, and
+the following evening I put up with Musa, who told me Baraka had just
+left without one man--all his slaves having become afraid to go, since
+the news of the Arab alliance had reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered
+his subjects to run up a line of bomas to protect his frontier, and had
+proclaimed his intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to
+enter Usui. My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was
+driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough to go
+on with me carrying a load.
+
+3d to 13th.--Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me, and
+confirmed Musa's words. The Arabs, too, came flocking in to beg, nay
+implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many of them were
+absolutely ruined, they said; others had their houses full of stores
+unemployed. At Ugogo those who wished to join them were unable to do so,
+for their porters, what few were left, were all dying of starvation; and
+at that moment Manua Sera was hovering about, shooting, both night and
+day, all the poor villagers in the district, or driving them away. Would
+to God, they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera--they were
+sure I would be successful--and then they would give me as many armed
+men as I liked. Their folly in all their actions, I said, proved to me
+that anything I might attempt to do would be futile, for their alliance
+with the Watuta, when they were not prepared to act, at once damned them
+in my eyes as fools. This they in their terror acknowledged, but said it
+was not past remedy, if I would join them, to counteract what had been
+done in that matter. Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation,
+arguing all the pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the
+articles of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have
+all their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke
+faith; and I begged them to call the next day and sign it.
+
+They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had killed
+old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as follows:--Khamis,
+who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on returning from Ugogo
+attended by slaves, having heard that Maula was desirous of adjusting
+a peace, invited him with his son to do so. When old Maula came as
+desired, bringing his son with him, and a suitable offering of ivory and
+cattle, the Arab induced them both to kneel down and exchange blood with
+him, when, by a previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot
+down by his slaves. This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next
+day the Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help them;
+but as the matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the first place, how
+they could hope Manua Sera would have any faith in them when they were
+so treacherous, or trust to my help, since they had killed Maula, who
+was my protege? They all replied in a breath, "Oh, let the past be
+forgotten, and assist us now! for in you alone we can look for a
+preserver."
+
+At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to
+negotiated it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the Arabs,
+which was settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards of cloth each,
+with a promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they returned. Ex Mrs Musa,
+who had been put aside by her husband because she was too fat for her
+lord's taste, then gave me three men of her private establishment, and
+abused Musa for being wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised
+him to leave this place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in
+debt to him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover
+his remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of
+Snay's and Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of commodities
+had been sold at the enormous price of 500 per cent--the male slaves
+even fetching 100 dollars per head, though the females went for less.
+The Hottentots now arrived, with many more of my men, who, seeing their
+old "flames," Snay's women, sold off by auction, begged me to advance
+them money to purchase them with, for they could not bear to see these
+women, who were their own when they formerly stayed here, go off like
+cattle no one knew where. Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it
+would have crowded the caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men
+every thinking of matrimony on the march, as well as to incite them on
+through the journey, I promised, as soon as we reached Egypt, to give
+them all wives and gardens at Zanzibar, provided they did not contract
+marriages on the road.
+
+On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned triumphantly into
+Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers--one of them a man with
+one eye, whom I called Cyclops--and tow others, ministers of a chief
+called Kitambi, or Little Blue Cloth. After going a day's journey, they
+said they came to where Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met
+with a most cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on
+hearing of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once
+that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they were
+convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua Sera would
+never regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside himself, and
+wished my men to stop one night to enjoy his hospitality. Manua Sera,
+after reflecting seriously about the treacherous murder of old Maula,
+hesitated, but gave way when it had been explained away by my men, and
+said, "No; they shall go at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue,
+and Bana Mzungu (the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return
+promptly." One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only
+place he would meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath
+his dignity to settle matters anywhere else. And further, he specified
+that he wished all the transactions to take place in Musa's house.
+
+Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with all my
+men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka, "on his legs,"
+told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. The Arabs gave their
+assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera, after giving a full narrative
+of the whole history of the war, in such a rapid and eloquent manner as
+would have done justice to our Prime Minister, said his chief was only
+embittered against Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make
+friends with them. To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding,
+that all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his
+wrath, Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with him
+was owing chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on them, and on
+the characteristic personal ceremony of initiation to their Mussulman
+faith. Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to make friends, they would
+abide by anything that I might propose. Here the knotty question arose
+again, what territory they, the Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I
+thought he would not be content unless he got the old place again; but
+as Cyclops said no, that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary,
+as the lands of Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was
+settled on the condition that another conference should be held with
+Manua Sera himself on the subject.
+
+I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua Sera to
+come over and settle matters at once, if he would, otherwise I should go
+on with my journey, for I could not afford to wait longer here. Then,
+as soon as they left, I made Musa order some of his men off to Rungua,
+requesting the chief of the place to send porters to Mininga to remove
+all our baggage over to his palace; at the same time I begged him not
+to fear the Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as
+the treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma alongside
+his palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his trade with
+Karague. I should have mentioned, by the way, that Musa had now made
+up his mind not to go further than the borders of Usui with me, lest
+I should be "torn to pieces," and he would be "held responsible on the
+coast." Musa's men, however, whom he selected for this business, were
+then engaged making Mussulmans of all the Arab slave boys, and said
+they would not go until they had finished, although I offered to pay the
+"doctor's bill," or allowance they expected to get. The ceremony, at the
+same time that it helps to extend their religion, as christening does
+ours, also stamps the converts with a mark effective enough to prevent
+desertion; because, after it has been performed, their own tribe
+would not receive them again. At last, when they did go, Musa, who
+was suffering from a sharp illness, to prove to me that he was bent on
+leaving Kaze the same time as myself, began eating what he called
+his training pills--small dried buds of roses with alternate bits of
+sugar-candy. Ten of these buds, he said, eaten dry, were sufficient for
+ordinary cases, and he gave a very formidable description of the effect
+likely to follow the use of the same number boiled in rice-water or
+milk.
+
+Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from Ugogo by
+small bodies of men, who stole their way through the jungles. To-day a
+tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe amongst all the women,
+as one had been delivered of still-born twins. They went about in
+procession, painted and adorned in the most grotesque fashion, bewailing
+and screeching, singing and dancing, throwing their arms and legs about
+as if they were drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a
+huge bundle of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up
+to the door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been
+a coffin. Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of the
+rushes on either side of the entrance, and all kneeling together, set to
+bewailing, shrieking, and howling incessantly for hours together.
+
+After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite unexpectedly, a
+man arrived from Usui conveying a present of some ivories from a great
+mganga or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who had sent them to Musa as
+a recollection from an old friend, begging at the same time for some
+pretty cloths, as he said he was then engaged as mtongi or caravan
+director, collecting together all the native caravans desirous of making
+a grand march to Uganda. This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of
+making friends with one who could help me so materially, and I begged
+Musa to seal it by sending him something on my account, as I had nothing
+by me; but Musa objected, thinking it better simply to say I was coming,
+and if he, K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I would then give him some
+cloths as he wanted; otherwise, Musa said, the man who had to convey
+it would in all probability make away with it, and then do his best to
+prevent my seeing K'yengo. As soon as this was settled, against my wish
+and opinion, a special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire
+of Musa what truth there was in the story of the Arabs having allied
+themselves to the Watuta. He had full faith in Musa, and hoped, if the
+Arabs had no hostile intentions towards him, he, Musa, would send him
+two of theirs; further, Suwarora wished Musa would send him a cat. A
+black cat was then given to the messenger for Suwarora, and Musa sent
+an account of all that I had done towards effecting a peace, saying that
+the Arabs had accepted my views, and if he would have patience until I
+arrived in Usui, the four men required would be sent with me.
+
+In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for his
+master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and to make
+friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about deposing
+Mkisiwa, he could not come over here. Could the Arabs, was Manua Sera's
+rejoinder, suppose for a moment that he would voluntarily divide
+his dominion with one whom he regarded as his slave! Death would be
+preferable; and although he would trust his life in the Mzungu's hands
+if he called him again, he must know it was his intention to hunt
+Mkisiwa down like a wild animal, and would never rest satisfied until
+he was dead. The treaty thus broke down; for the same night Cyclops
+decamped like a thief, after brandishing an arrow which Manua Sera had
+given him to throw down as a gauntlet of defiance to fight Mkisiwa to
+death. After this the Arabs were too much ashamed of themselves to come
+near me, though invited by letter, and Musa became so ill he would not
+take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best possible cure for
+his complaint; so, after being humbugged so many times by his
+procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more letters and specimens, with
+orders to take the Tots down to the coast as soon as practicable, and
+started once more for the north, expecting very shortly to hear of
+Musa's death, though he promised to follow me the very next day or die
+in the attempt, and he also said he would bring on the four men required
+by Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have
+marched with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all.
+
+Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had collected a
+mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had gone off to Kigue
+again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were feeding their men on beef
+before setting out to fight him. Manua Sera, it was said, had vast
+resources. His father, Fundi Kira, was a very rich man, and had buried
+vast stores of property, which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir.
+The Wanyamuezi all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and
+all alike thought him protected by a halo of charm-power so effective
+against the arms of the Arabs that he could play with them just as he
+liked.
+
+On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my old
+friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I would visit
+him at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in store for me, as
+he could not go home and enjoy the society of his wife whilst the war
+was going on; since, by so doing, it was considered he "would lose
+strength."
+
+On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly recovered.
+Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during my absence. Two of
+the people escaped, but the third was seized as he was plunging into his
+hut, and was dragged off and devoured by the animals. A theft also had
+taken place, by which both Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the
+thieves had been traced over the borders of the next district. No fear,
+however, was entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko
+had warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga, or
+magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring chief chose
+to give them up. After waiting two days, as no men came from Rungua, I
+begged Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just opposite Rungua, with all
+my coast-men, whilst I remained behind for the arrival of Musa's men
+and porters to carry on the rest of the kit--for I had now twenty-two in
+addition to men permanently enlisted, who took service on the same rate
+of pay as my original coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for
+marching was issued, a great number were found to be either sick or
+malingering.
+
+Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would not hire
+themselves for more than two marches, having been forbidden to do so by
+their chief on account of the supposed Watuta invasion; and for these
+two marches they required a quarter of the whole customary hire to
+Karague. Musa's traps, too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at
+once Musa had not kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set
+of difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest
+importance--for my men were consuming my stores at a fearful pace--I
+paid down the beads they demanded, and next day joined Grant at Mbisu,
+a village of Ukuni held by a small chief called Mchimeka, who had just
+concluded a war of two years' standing with the great chief Ukulima (the
+Digger), of Nunda (the Hump). During the whole of the two years' warfare
+the loss was only three men on each side. Meanwhile Musa's men bolted
+like thieves one night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa,
+after concluding the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had been
+wounded on the foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The injury had
+at once taken a mortal turn, and the chief sent for his magicians, who
+said it was not the fault of the wife--somebody else must have charmed
+the arrow to cause such a deadly result. They then seized hold of the
+magic horn, primed for the purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where
+the culprits dwelt. Four poor men, who were convicted in this way, were
+at once put to death, and the chief from that moment began to recover.
+
+After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a kirangozi, or
+leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig). He had several times taken caravans
+to Karague, and knew all the languages well, but unfortunately he
+afterwards proved to be what his name implied. That, however, I could
+not foresee, so, trusting to him and good-luck, I commenced making fresh
+enlistments of porters; but they came and went in the most tantalising
+manner, notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant
+could afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. Some of
+Musa's men came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too weak to stand,
+and was so cold nothing would warm him. There was, however, no message
+brought for myself; and as the deputation did not come to me, I could
+only infer that I was quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only
+been humbugging me. I scarcely knew what to do. Everybody advised me
+to stop where I was until the harvest was over, as no porters could be
+found on ahead, for Ukuni was the last of the fertile lands on this side
+of Usui.
+
+Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I therefore tried
+advancing in detachments again, sending the free men off under Grant to
+Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping ourselves divided in the hopes
+of inducing all hands to see the advisability of exerting themselves for
+the general good--as my men, whilst we were all together, showed they
+did not care how long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than
+chaffing each other, and feeding at my expense.
+
+In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and drinking
+their pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other providing the
+treat. On these occasions the chief--who always drank freely, and more
+than any other--heading the public gatherings of men and women, saw
+the large earthen pots placed all in a row, and the company taking
+long draughts from bowls made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank,
+until, half-screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting. To increase
+the merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over their
+heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons, blowing with
+all their might, contorting their faces and bodies, and going through
+the most obscene and ridiculous motions to captivate their simple
+admirers. This, however, was only the feast; the ball then began, for
+the pots were no sooner emptied than five drums at once, of different
+sizes and tones, suspended in a line from a long horizontal bar, were
+beaten with fury, and all the men, women, and children, singing and
+clapping their hands in time, danced for hours together.
+
+A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent to
+convey to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was crossing
+Msalala to our northward, had been treacherously robbed of all his
+arms and guns by a small district chief, whose only excuse was that the
+Wanyamuezi had always traded very well by themselves until the Arabs
+came into the country; but now, as they were robbed of their property,
+on account of the disturbances caused by these Arabs, they intended for
+the future to take all they could get, and challenged the Arabs to do
+the same.
+
+My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help thinking
+that the chiefs of the place were preventing their village men going
+with me in order that my presence here might ward of the Watuta; so I
+called up the kirangozi, who had thirteen "Watoto," as they are called,
+or children of his own, wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no
+other men could be got. As he could not tell me, saying some excused
+themselves on the plea they were cutting their corn, and others that
+they feared the Watuta, I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and if
+that place also failed to furnish men, I would go on to Usui or Karague
+with what men I had, and send back for the rest of my property; for
+though I could bear the idea of separating from Grant, still the
+interests of old England were at stake, and demanded it.
+
+This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that the
+row in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to go with
+me, I marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in Ukulima's boma,
+when Grant informed me that the chief had required four yards of
+cloth from him for having walked round a dead lioness, as he had thus
+destroyed a charm that protected his people against any more of these
+animals coming, although, fortunately, the charm could be restored again
+by paying four yards of cloth. Ukulima, however, was a very kind and
+good man, though he did stick the hands and heads of his victims on the
+poles of his boma as a warning to others. He kept five wives, of whom
+the rest paid such respect to the elder one, it was quite pleasing to
+see them. A man of considerable age, he did everything the state or
+his great establishment required himself. All the men of his district
+clapped their hands together as a courteous salutation to him, and
+the women curtsied as well as they do at our court--a proof that they
+respected him as a great potentate--a homage rarely bestowed on the
+chiefs of other small states. Ukulima was also hospitable; for on one
+occasion, when another chief came to visit him, he received his guest
+and retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the
+village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and firing off
+guns, like a lot of black devils let loose.
+
+We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi, with
+several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had arrived at
+Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. They told me it was
+the first time they had come on this line, and they deeply regretted it,
+for they had lost 5000 dollar's worth of beads by their porters running
+away with their loads, and now they did not know how to proceed. Indeed,
+they left the coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and
+had, like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach
+this, and now they were at a standstill for want of porters.
+
+As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I called
+on Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going ahead with the
+best of my property as I had devised. They both shook their heads, and
+advised me to remain until the times improved, when the Arabs, being
+freed from the pressure of war, would come along and form with us a
+"sufari ku" or grand march, as Ukulima and every one else had said we
+should be torn to pieces in Usui if we tried to cross that district with
+so few men. I then told them again and again of the messages I had sent
+on to Rumanika in Karague, and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged them
+to listen to me, instancing as an example of what could be done by
+perseverance the success of Columbus, who, opposed by his sailors'
+misgivings, still when on and triumphed, creating for himself immortal
+renown.
+
+They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my property,
+I formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind, as I thought
+Bombay the best and most honest man I had got, from his having had so
+much experience, and then went ahead by myself, with the Pig as my
+guide and interpreter, and Baraka as my factotum. The Waguana then all
+mutinied for a cloth apiece, saying they would not lift a load unless
+I gave it. Of course a severe contest followed; I said, as I had given
+them so much before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of
+themselves. They urged, however, they were doing double work, and would
+not consent to carry loads as they had done at Mgunda Mkhali again.
+
+Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of going
+on, they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay every day, they
+therefore ought to work every day. However, as they yielded at last, by
+some few leaning to my side, I gave what they asked for, and went to the
+next village, still inefficient in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could
+not be collected together. This second move brought us into a small
+village, of which Ghiya, a young man, was chief.
+
+He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming young
+woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not bring me to
+terms, he looked over my picture-books with the greatest delight,
+and afterwards went into a discourse on geography with considerable
+perspicacity; seeming fully to comprehend that if I got down the Nile it
+would afterwards result in making the shores of the N'yanza like that
+of the coast at Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be
+exchanged, without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire.
+I gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh Said,
+announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was still holding
+out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the sheikh to send me as many
+of Musa's slaves as would take service with me, for they ought now, by
+the laws of the Koran, to be all free.
+
+On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut the bars
+of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me, as I had not
+given enough, they said, to their chief. They soon, however, saw that
+we, being inside their own fort, had the best of it, and they gave way.
+We then pushed on to Ungurue's, another chief of the same district. Here
+the men and women of the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex
+all playfully offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which
+I admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was not
+sorry to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a man of the
+village would not pay his dowry-money to his father-in-law, and this set
+everybody flying out to the scene of action.
+
+After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I bade
+him good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to Takina, in
+the district of Msalala, which we no sooner approached than all the
+inhabitants turned out and fired their arrows at us. They did no harm,
+however, excepting to create a slight alarm, which some neighbouring
+villagers took advantage of to run of with two of my cows. To be
+returned to them, but called in vain, as the scoundrels said, "Findings
+are keepings, by the laws of our country; and as we found your cows,
+so we will keep them." For my part I was glad they were gone, as the
+Wanguana never yet kept anything I put under their charge; so, instead
+of allowing them to make a fuss the next morning, I marched straight on
+for M'ynoga's, the chief of the district, who was famed for his infamy
+and great extortions, having pushed his exactions so far as to close the
+road.
+
+On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every surrounding
+village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until permission was
+obtained from M'yonga. This did not take long, as the chief said he was
+most desirous to see a white man, never having been to the coast, though
+his father-in-law had, and had told him that the Wazungu were even
+greater people than the sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the
+palace, a small, newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but
+as I did not wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to
+have his relief, I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to pay
+the hongo as quickly as possible, that we might move on again; at the
+same time ordering him to describe the position both Grant and myself
+were in, and explain that what I paid now was to frank both of us, as
+the whole of the property was my own. Should he make any remarks about
+the two cows that were stolen, I said he must know that I could not wait
+for them, as my brother would die of suspense if we did not finish the
+journey and send back for him quickly. Off went Baraka with a party of
+men, stopping hours, of course, and firing volleys of ammunition
+away. He did not return again until the evening, when the palace-drums
+announced that the hongo had been settled for one barsati, one lugoi,
+and six yards merikani. Baraka approached me triumphantly, saying
+how well he had managed the business. M'yonga did not wish to see me,
+because he did not know the coast language. He was immensely pleased
+with the present I had given him, and said he was much and very unjustly
+abused by the Arabs, who never came this way, saying he was a bad man.
+He should be very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing from him;
+and, though he did not see me in person, he would feel much affronted if
+I did not stop the night there. In the meanwhile he would have the cows
+brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave his country abused
+in any way.
+
+My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and showing him
+the use of their sword-bayonets. I knew, as a matter of course, that if
+I stopped any longer I should be teased for more cloths, and gave orders
+to my men to march the same instant, saying, if they did not--for I saw
+them hesitate--I would give the cows to the villagers, since I knew that
+was the thing that weighed on their minds. This raised a mutiny. No one
+would go forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was
+far spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond. The
+kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. A great
+confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and would not enter the
+village, but shot the cows when they arrived, for the villagers to eat,
+to show them I cared for nothing but making headway, and remained out in
+the open all night. Next morning, sure enough, before we could get under
+way, M'yonga sent his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and
+other members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all night
+for having let me off so cheaply--they had got nothing to cover their
+nakedness, and I must pay something more. This provoked fresh squabbles.
+The drums had beaten and the tax was settled; I could not pay more. The
+kirangozi, however, said he would not move a peg unless I gave something
+more, else he would be seized on his way back. His "children' all said
+the same; and as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep
+friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and then
+went on my way.
+
+For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a long
+tract of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and rhinoceros. It was
+wilder in appearance than most parts of Unyamuezi. In this jungle a
+tributary nullah to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the boundary-line
+between the great Country of the Moon and the kingdom of Uzinza.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VI. Uzinza
+
+The Politics of Uzinza--The Wahuma--"The Pig's" Trick--First Taste
+of Usui Taxation--Pillaged by Mfumbi--Pillaged by Makaka--Pillaged by
+Lumeresi--Grant Stripped by M'Yonga--Stripped Again by Ruhe--Terrors and
+Defections in the Camp--Driven back to Kaze with new Tribulations and
+Impediments.
+
+Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains of
+foreign blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we saw
+specimens scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even down south
+as far as Fipa. Travellers see very little, however, of these Wahuma,
+because, being pastorals, they roam about with their flocks and build
+huts as far away as they can from cultivation. Most of the small
+district chiefs, too, are the descendants of those who ruled in the same
+places before the country was invaded, and with them travellers put
+up and have their dealings. The dress of the Wahuma is very simple,
+composed chiefly of cow-hide tanned black--a few magic ornaments and
+charms, brass or copper bracelets, and immense number of sambo for
+stockings, which looked very awkward on their long legs. They smear
+themselves with rancid butter instead of macassar, and are, in
+consequence, very offensive to all but the negro, who seems, rather than
+otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. For arms they carry both
+bow and spear; more generally the latter. The Wazinza in the southern
+parts are so much like the Wanyamuezi, as not to require any especial
+notice; but in the north, where the country is more hilly, they are much
+more energetic and actively built. All alike live in grass-hut villages,
+fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the north. Their
+country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude as it approaches the
+Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well cultivated, being subjected
+to more of the periodical rains than the regions we have left, though
+springs are not so abundant, I believe, as they are in the Land of the
+Moon, where they ooze out by the flanks of the little granitic hills.
+
+After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came to the
+sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the Watuta not long
+since. Farther on, as we wished to enter a newly-constructed boma, the
+chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a Mr Balls), we felt the effects
+of those ruthless marauders; for the villagers, thinking us Watuta in
+disguise, would not let us in; for those savages, they said, had
+once tricked them by entering their village, pretending to be traders
+carrying ivory and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies. This
+was fortunate for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted for
+his extortions on travellers. We then went on and put up in the first
+village of Bogue, where I wished to get porters and return for Grant, as
+the place seemed to be populous. Finding, however, that I could not get
+a sufficient number for that purpose, I directed those who wished for
+employment to go off at once and take service with Grant.
+
+I found many people assembled here from all parts of the district, for
+the purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief Ruhe, having heard of my
+arrival, called me to his palace, which, he said, was on my way, that
+he might see me, for he never in all his life had a white man for his
+guest, and was so glad to hear of my arrival that he would give orders
+for the dispersing of his forces. I wished to push past him, as I might
+be subjected to such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish
+manner--for he was related to Ruhe--insisted that neither himself nor
+any of his children would advance one step farther with me unless I
+complied with their wish, which was a simple conformity with the laws
+of their country, and therefore absolute. At length giving in, I entered
+Ruhe's boma, the poles of which were decked with the skulls of his
+enemies stuck upon them. Instead, however, of seeing him myself, as he
+feared my evil eye, I conducted the arrangements for the hongo through
+Baraka, in the same way as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should
+be limited to the small sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki.
+
+The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of the
+hongo, and consequently of our release, and we went on to Mihambo,
+on the west border of the eastern division of Uzinza, which is called
+Ukhanga. It overlooks the small district of Sorombo, belonging to the
+great western division, known as Usui, and is presided over by a Sorombo
+chief, named Makaka, whose extortions had been so notorious that no
+Arabs now ever went near him. I did not wish to do so either, though his
+palace lay in the direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt
+round by the east of this district, and I even promised the Pig I would
+give him ten necklaces a-day in addition to his wages, if he would avoid
+all the chiefs, and march steadily ten miles every day. By doing so, we
+should have avoided the wandering Watuta, whose depredations had laid
+waste nearly all of this country; but the designing blackguard, in
+opposition to my wishes, to accomplish some object of his own, chose to
+mislead us all, and quietly took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the
+boma of a sub-chief, called Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the
+inhospitable brute forbade any one of his subjects to sell us food until
+the hongo was paid, for he was not sure that we were not allied with the
+Watuta to rob his country. After receiving what he called his dues--one
+barsati, two yards merikani, and two yards kiniki--the drums beat, and
+all was settled with him; but I was told the head chief Makaka, who
+lived ten miles to the west, and so much out of my road, had sent
+expressly to invite me to see him. He said it was his right I should go
+to him as the principal chief of the district. Moreover he longed for a
+sight of a white man; for though he had travelled all across Uganda and
+Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country, as well as to the coast, where
+he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had never yet seen an Englishman.
+If I would oblige him, he said he would give me guides to Suwarora, who
+was his mkama or king. Of course I knew well what all this meant; and at
+the same time that I said I could not comply, I promised to send him a
+present of friendship by the hands of Baraka.
+
+This caused a halt. Makaka would not hear of such an arrangement. A
+present, he said, was due to him of course, but of more importance than
+the present was his wish to see me. Baraka and all the men begged I
+would give in, as they were sure he must be a good man to send such a
+kind message. I strove in vain, for no one would lift a load unless I
+complied; so, perforce, I went there, in company, however, with Mfumbi,
+who now pretended to be great friends; but what was the result? On
+entering the palace we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it,
+or any shade; and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of
+friendship was paid, after which the hongo would be discussed.
+
+The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my men
+had to go supperless to bed. Baraka offered him one common cloth, and
+then another--all of which he rejected with such impetuosity that Baraka
+said his head was all on a whirl. Makaka insisted he would have a deole,
+or nothing at all. I protested I had no deoles I could give him; for all
+the expensive cloths which I had brought from the coast had been stolen
+in Mgunda Mkhali. I had three, however, concealed at the time--which I
+had bought from Musa, at forty dollars each--intended for the kings of
+Karague and Uganda.
+
+Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last Baraka,
+clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed young chief, told
+him, most unfortunately, he would see again if he could find a deole, as
+he had one of his own. Baraka then brought one to my tent, and told me
+of his having bought it for eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw
+I was let in for it, I told him to give it. It was given, but Makaka
+no sooner saw it than he said he must have another one; for it was all
+nonsense saying a white man had no rich cloths. Whenever he met Arabs,
+they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their merchandise
+from the white men on credit, which they refunded afterwards, by levying
+a heavy percentage on the sale of their ivory.
+
+I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful battling,
+the present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving first a dubuani,
+then one sahari, then one barsati, then one kisutu, and then eight
+yards of merikani--all of which were contested in the most sickening
+manner--when Baraka, fairly done up, was relieved by Makaka's saying,
+"That will do for friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all
+this trouble would have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will
+see." My men then had their first dinner here, after which the hongo had
+to be paid. This for the time was, however, more easily settled; because
+Makaki at once said he would never be satisfied until he had received,
+if I had really not got a deole, exactly double in equivalents of all I
+had given him. This was a fearful drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing
+my concern, merely laughed at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are
+all alike here; you will have one of these taxes to pay every stage to
+Uyofu, and then the heavy work will begin; for all these men, although
+they assume the dignity of chief to themselves, are mere officers, who
+have to pay tribute to Suwarora, and he would be angry if they were
+shortcoming."
+
+The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be
+satisfied until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were the
+best of friends. To do this last act properly, I was to get ready
+whatever I wished to give him, whilst he would come and visit me with
+a bullock; but I was to give him a royal salute, or the drums would not
+beat. I never felt so degraded as when I complied, and gave orders to my
+men to fire a volley as he approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a
+good grace, and met the young chief as if nothing had happened. My men,
+however, could not fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was
+one of those excitable impulsive creatures who expect others to do
+everything in as great a hurry as their minds wander. The moment the
+first volley was fired, he said, "Now, fire again, fire again; be quick,
+be quick! What's the use of those things?" (meaning the guns). "We could
+spear you all whilst you are loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you."
+But Baraka, to give himself law, said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master)
+"first, as we do everything by order; this is not fighting at all."
+
+The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young chief
+came into my tent. I motioned him to take my chair, which, after he sat
+down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained the seat all black
+with the running colour of one of the new barsati cloths he had got from
+me, which, to improve its appearance, he had saturated with stinking
+butter, and had tied round his loins. A fine-looking man of about
+thirty, he wore the butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and
+tied on his forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope
+horns, stuffed with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye. His
+attendants all fawned on him, and snapped their fingers whenever he
+sneezed. After passing the first compliment, I gave him a barsati, as my
+token of friendship, and asked him what he saw when he went to the Masai
+country. He assured me "that there were two lakes, and not one"; for, on
+going from Usoga to the Masai country, he crossed over a broad strait,
+which connected the big N'yanza with another one at its north-east
+corner. Fearfully impetuous, as soon as this answer was given, he said,
+"Now I have replied to your questions, do you show me all the things you
+have got, for I want to see everything, and be very good friends. I
+did not see you the first day, because you being a stranger, it was
+necessary I should first look into the magic horn to see if all was
+right and safe; and now I can assure you that, whilst I saw I was safe,
+I also saw that your road would be prosperous. I am indeed delighted
+to see you, for neither my father, nor any of my forefathers, ever were
+honoured with the company of a white man in all their lives."
+
+My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged for in
+the most importunate manner. He asked for the picture-books, examined
+the birds with intense delight--even trying to insert under their
+feathers his long royal fingernails, which are grown like a Chinaman's
+by these chiefs, to show they have a privilege to live on meat. Then
+turning to the animals, he roared over each one in turn as he examined
+them, and called out their names. My bull's-eye lantern he coveted
+so much, I had to pretend exceeding anger to stop his further
+importunities. He then began again begging for lucifers, which charmed
+him so intensely I thought I should never get rid of him. He would have
+one box of them. I swore I could not part with them. He continued to
+beg, and I to resist. I offered a knife instead, but this he would
+not have, because the lucifers would be so valuable for his magical
+observances. On went the storm, till at last I drove him off with a pair
+of my slippers, which he had stuck his dirty feet into without my leave.
+I then refused to take his bullock, because he had annoyed me. On his
+part he was resolved not to beat the drum; but he graciously said he
+would think about it if I paid another lot of cloth equal to the second
+deole I ought to have given him.
+
+I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief shot, as
+a reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to others; but the
+Pig said it was just what the Arabs were subjected to in Ubena, and they
+found it best to pay down at once, and do all they were ordered. If I
+acted rightly, I would take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst
+Baraka said, "We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember
+Grant is behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the
+whole way, for every chief in the country will oppose you."
+
+I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once. They no sooner did so
+than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour possible, came over
+to say I had permission to go when I liked, but he hoped I would give
+him a gun and a box of lucifers. This was too provoking. The perpetual
+worry had given Baraka a fever, and had made me feel quite sick; so I
+said, if he ever mentioned a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the
+matter out with him, for I had not come there to be bullied. He then
+gave way, and begged I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his
+boma, as the Watuta were living behind a small line of granitic hills
+flanking the west of his district, and he wished to show them what a
+powerful force he had got with him. This was permitted; but his wisdom
+in showing off was turned into ridicule; for the same evening the Watuta
+made and attack on his villages and killed three of his subjects, but
+were deterred from committing further damage by coming in contact
+with my men, who, as soon as they saw the Watuta fighting, fired their
+muskets off in the air and drove them away, they themselves at the same
+time bolting into my camp, and as usual vaunting their prowess.
+
+I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the fields
+to take my regular observations for latitude. Whilst engaged in this
+operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo (Heart's-stream), another
+of my freeman, approached me in great consternation, whispering to
+themselves. They said they had some fearful news to communicate, which,
+when I heard it, they knew would deter our progress: it was of such
+great moment and magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then.
+I said, "What nonsense! out with it at once. Are we such chickens that
+we cannot speak about matters like men? out with it at once."
+
+Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who arrived
+from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so angry with the
+Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs in his country, and,
+separating the whole of their men, has placed each of them in different
+bomas, with orders to his village officers that, in case the Watuta came
+into his country, without further ceremony they were to be all put to
+death." I said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool? Do you not see
+through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to frighten away
+the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be alarmed at such phantoms
+as these. You always are nagging at me that Bombay is the 'big' and you
+are the 'small' man. Bombay would never be frightened in this silly way.
+Now, do you reflect that I have selected you for this journey, as it
+would, if you succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for
+ever as a man of great fame. Pray, don't give way, but do your best
+to encourage the men, and let us march in the morning." On this, as
+on other occasions of the same kind, I tried to impart confidence, by
+explaining, in allusion to Petherick's expedition, that I had arranged
+to meet white men coming up from the north. Baraka at last said, "All
+right--I am not afraid; I will do as you desire." But as the two were
+walking off, I heard Wadimoyo say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now?
+won't he go back?"--which, if anything, alarmed me more than the first
+intelligence; for I began to think that they, and not Makaka, had got up
+the story.
+
+All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and shouting to
+keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of a march, after
+striking my tent I found that the whole of my porters, the Pig's
+children, were not to be found. They had gone off and hidden themselves,
+saying that they were not such fools as to go any farther, as the Watuta
+were out, and would cut us up on the road. This was sickening indeed.
+
+I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring them to
+me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I would, they all
+swore they would not advance a step farther. Most of them were formerly
+men of Utambara. The Watuta had invaded their country and totally
+destroyed it, killing all their wives and children, and despoiling
+everything they held dear to them. They did not wish to rob me, and
+would give up their hire, but not one step more would they advance.
+Makaka then came forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this
+ill wind blows over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any
+one else, said, No--he would do anything rather than that; for Makaka's
+bullying had made him quite ill. I then said to my men, "If nothing else
+will suit you, the best plan I can think of is to return to Mihambo in
+Bogue, and there form a depot, where, having stored my property, I shall
+give the Pig a whole load, or 63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take
+Baraka in disguise on to Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men,
+whilst I go back to Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late
+Musa's establishment, and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a
+body together." At first Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us killed? Do
+you think if we went to Suwarora's you would ever see us back again?
+You would wait and wait for us, but we should never return." To which I
+replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not think so! Bombay, if he were here, would go
+in a minute. Suwarora by this time knows I am coming, and you may depend
+on it he will be just as anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to
+keep us here, and he cannot hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also
+expects us." Baraka then, in the most doleful manner, said he would go
+if the Pig would. The Pig, however, did not like it either, but said the
+matter was so important he would look into the magic horn all night, and
+give his answer next morning as soon as we arrived at Mihambo.
+
+On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay to me,
+and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them to advance a
+step farther. I said nothing; but, with "my heart in my shoes," I gave
+what I thought their due for coming so far, and motioned them to be off;
+then calling on the Pig for his decision, I tried to argue again, though
+I saw it was no use, for there was not one of my own men who wished to
+go on. They were unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no
+right to sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three
+loads even would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what
+value, he observed, would the beads be to him if his life was lost? This
+was crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in opposing me. I then made
+Baraka place all my kit in the middle of the boma, which was a very
+strong one, keeping out only such beads as I wished him to use for
+the men's rations daily, and ordered him to select a few men who would
+return with me to Kaze; when I said, if I could not get all the men I
+wanted, I would try and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on
+to Usui; failing which, I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as
+nothing in the world would ever induce me to give up the journey.
+
+This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly
+commenced collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At first no
+one would go; they then mutinied for more beads, announcing all sorts of
+grievances, which they said they were always talking over to themselves,
+though I did not hear them. The greatest, however, that they could get
+up was, that I always paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they
+got, though "permanents." "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I
+cut and did with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it any
+longer. However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I had brought
+them to reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and property to
+Baraka, and commenced the return with a bad hitching cough, caused by
+those cold easterly winds that blow over the plateau during the six dry
+months of the years, and which are, I suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to
+Africa.
+
+Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a few
+Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me. I then told him all my mishaps
+in Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights that had seized all
+my men. I felt greatly alarmed about the prospects of the expedition,
+scarcely knowing what I should do. I resolved at last, if everything
+else failed, to make up a raft at the southern end of the N'yanza, and
+try to go up to the Nile in that way. My cough daily grew worse. I
+could not lie or sleep on either side. Still my mind was so excited and
+anxious that, after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society,
+I pushed ahead again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at
+Mchimeka's.
+
+There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my offer
+of beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I was right.
+Baraka and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they not opposed his
+going, he would have gone then; even now, he said, he wished I would
+take him again with Bombay. Though half inclined to accept his offer,
+which would have saved a long trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked
+me so often, I felt there would be no security unless I could get some
+coast interpreters, who would not side with the chiefs against me as he
+had done. From this I went on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with
+him talking over my plans. The rafting up the lake he thought a good
+scheme; but he did not think I should ever get through Usui until all
+the Kaze merchants went north in a body, for it was no use trying to
+force my men against their inclinations; and if I did not take care how
+I handled them, he thought they would all desert.
+
+My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst mounting a
+hill on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew and grunted like
+a broken-winded horse, and it became so distressing I had to halt a day.
+In two more marches, however, I reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's
+eldest son, Abdalla, on the 2nd July, who now was transformed from a
+drunken slovenly boy into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all
+day as his old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the
+same--no men respected him as they had done his father. Sheikh Said
+was his clerk and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed on his
+goats--at my expense, however. On hearing my fix, Abdalla said I should
+have men; and, what's more, he would go with me as his father had
+promised to do; but he had a large caravan detained in Ugogo, and for
+that he must wait.
+
+At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance with the
+chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now, as all the Arabs
+had allied themselves with the surrounding chiefs, including Kitambi;
+and had invested his position by forming a line, in concentric circles,
+four deep, cutting off his supplies of water within it, so that they
+daily expected to hear of his surrendering. The last news that had
+reached them brought intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs
+wounded; whilst, on the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and
+was put to such straits that he had called out if it was the Arabs'
+determination to kill him he would bolt again; to which the Arabs
+replied it was all the same; if he ran up to the top of the highest
+mountain or down into hell, they would follow after and put him to
+death.
+
+3d.--After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured I
+could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and the Arabs
+had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property, which was still
+lying there, I accepted two men as guides--one named Bui, a very small
+creature, with very high pretensions, who was given me by Abdalla--the
+other, a steady old traveller, named Nasib (or Fortune), who was given
+me by Fundi Sangoro. These two slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs
+and languages up to and including Uganda, promised me faithfully they
+would go with Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient
+number for Grant and myself to go on together. They laughed at the
+stories I told them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all the
+Wanguana, and told me, as old Musa had often done before, that those
+men, especially Baraka, had from their first leaving Kaze made up their
+minds they would not enter Usui, or go anywhere very far north.
+
+I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to buy
+some beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely necessary I should
+increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped to reach Gondokoro. The
+attempt failed, as the Arabs would not sell at a rate under 2000 per
+cent.; and I wrote a letter to Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed
+men laden with beads and pretty cloths--which would, I knew, cost me
+L1000 at the least--and left once more for the north on the 5th.
+
+Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach Grant
+again until the 11th. His health had greatly improved, and he had been
+dancing with Ukulima, as may be seen by the accompanying woodcut. So,
+as I was obliged to wait for a short time to get a native guide for Bui,
+Nasib and Bombay, who would show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed
+our leisure hours in shooting guinea-fowls for the pot. A report then
+came to us that Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had
+been endeavouring to see him, but was deterred because evil reports
+concerning him had been spread. This unexpected good news delighted me
+exceedingly; confirmed my belief that Baraka, after all, was a
+coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay to make his cowardice more
+indisputable by going on and doing what he had feared to do. To which
+Bombay replied, "Of course I will. It is all folly pulling up for every
+ill wind that blows, because, until one actually SEES there is something
+in it, you never can tell amongst these savages--'shaves' are so common
+in Africa. Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the director of
+everything." "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you keep to
+that way of thinking."
+
+At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those men of
+the Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire to go with
+me, but had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and the rest of my men.
+Seeing all this, I changed my plans again, intending, on arrival at
+Baraka's camp, to prevail on the whole of the party to go with me
+direct, which I thought they could not now refuse, since Suwarora had
+sent us an invitation. Moreover, I did not like the idea of remaining
+still whilst the three men went forwards, as it would be losing time.
+
+These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could not
+be helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu--both of us
+saying we would do our best--and set out on my journey, thinking what a
+terrible thing it was I could not prevail on my men to view things as
+I did. Neither my experience with native chiefs, nor my money and guns,
+were of any use to me, simply because my men were such incomprehensible
+fools, though many of them who had travelled before ought to have known
+better.
+
+More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting nature;
+but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we reached the border
+of Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who said he was a bigger man
+than his chief, demanded a tax, which I refused, and the dispute ended
+in his snatching Nasib's gun out of his hands. I thought little of this
+affair myself, beyond regretting the delay which it might occasion, as
+M'yonga, I knew, would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by
+his palace and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so
+greatly alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun back
+again by paying four yards merikani. We had continued bickering again,
+for Bui had taken such fright at this kind of rough handling, and the
+"push-ahead" manner in which I persisted "riding over the lords of the
+soil," that I could hardly drag the party along.
+
+However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked into
+Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise. I found the Union Jack
+hoisted upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees, in the boma. Baraka
+said he had done this to show the Watuta that the place was occupied
+by men with guns--a necessary precaution, as all the villages in the
+neighbourhood had, since my departure, been visited and plundered by
+them. Lumeresi, the chief of the district, who lived ten miles to the
+eastward, had been constantly pressing him to leave this post and come
+to his palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him
+and put up with Ruhe. He did not want property, he said, but he could
+not bear that the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or child,
+which Ruhe was, and yet would not live with him. He thought Baraka's
+determined obstinacy on this could only be caused by the influence of
+the head man of the village, and threatened that if Baraka did not
+come to visit him at once, he would have the head man beheaded. Then,
+shifting round a bit, he thought of ordering his subjects to starve the
+visitors into submission, and said he must have a hongo equal to Ruhe's.
+To all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a servant, and as he had
+orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it until I came; but to
+show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent the chief a cloth.
+
+These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka had
+been living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the ground,
+lying scattered about. I did not like the look of this, so ordered
+Bombay to resume his position of factotum, and count over the kit.
+Whilst this was going on, a villager came to me with a wire, and asked
+me to change it for a cloth. I saw at once what the game was; so I asked
+my friend where he got it, on which he at once pointed to Baraka. I
+then heard the men who were standing round us say one to another in
+under-tones, giggling with the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him! Did
+you hear what Bana said, and that fool's reply to it? What a shame of
+him to tell in that way." Without appearing to know, or rather to hear,
+the by-play that was going on, I now said to Baraka, "How is it this
+man has got one of my wires, for I told you not to touch or unpack
+them during my absence?" To which he coolly replied, in face of such
+evidence, "It is not one of your wires; I never gave away one of yours;
+there are lots more wires besides yours in the country. The man tells
+a falsehood; he had the wire before, but now, seeing your cloth open,
+wants to exchange it." "If that is the case," I said, taking things
+easy, "how is it you have opened my loads and scattered the wires about
+in the tent?" "Oh, that was to take care of them; for I thought, if
+they were left outside all night with the rest of the property, some one
+would steal them, and I should get the blame of it."
+
+Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths were
+short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had so much
+to do to keep all my men in good temper for the journey. Baraka then,
+wishing to beguile me, as he thought he could do, into believing him a
+wonderful man for both pluck and honesty, said he had had many battles
+to fight with the men since I had been gone to Kaze, for there were
+two strong parties in the camp; those who, during the late rebellion at
+Zanzibar, had belonged to the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and
+were royalists, and those who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs,
+were on the opposite side. The battle commenced, he stated, by the one
+side abusing the other for their deeds during that rebellion, the rebels
+in this sort of contest proving themselves the stronger. But he, heading
+the royalist party, soon reduced them to order, though only for a short
+while, as from that point they turned round to open mutiny for more
+rations; and some of the rebels tried to kill him, which, he said, they
+would have done had he not settled the matter by buying some cows for
+them. It was on this account he had been obliged to open my loads. And
+now he had told me the case, he hoped I would forgive him if he had done
+wrong. Now, the real facts of the case were these--though I did not find
+them out at the time:--Baraka had bought some slaves with my effects,
+and he had had a fight with some of my men because they tampered with
+his temporary wife--a princess he had picked up in Phunze. To obtain
+her hand he had given ten necklaces of MY beads to her mother, and had
+agreed to the condition that he should keep the girl during the journey;
+and after it was over, and he took her home, he would, if his wife
+pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces more.
+
+Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a very
+small berry when he saw whom I had brought with me yesterday--meaning
+Bombay, and the same porters whom he had prevented going on with me
+before. I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have done with such excuses, and let us
+get away out of this as fast as we can. Now, like a good man, just use
+your influence with the chief of the village, and try and get from him
+five or six men to complete the number we want, and then we will work
+round the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to
+him." This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard of my
+arrival, sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would visit him.
+He had never seen a white man in all his life, neither had his father,
+nor any of his forefathers, although he had often been down to the
+coast; I must come and see him, as I had seen his mtoto Ruhe. He did not
+want property; it was only the pleasure of my company that he wanted,
+to enable him to tell all his friends what a great man had lived in his
+house.
+
+This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in Sorombo
+would have to be gone through again if I went there, and groaned when I
+thought what a trick the Pig had played me when I first of all came
+to this place; for if I had gone on then, as I wished, I should have
+slipped past Lumeresi without his knowing it.
+
+I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not stand
+going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already lost so much
+time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo. Bui then, quaking with fright
+at my obstinacy, said, "You must--indeed you must--give in and do with
+these savage chiefs as the Arabs when they travel, for I will not be
+a party to riding rough-shod over them." Still I stuck out, and the
+grey-beards departed to tell their chief of it. Next morning he sent
+them back to say he would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief
+of the district. Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept
+"jawing" without effect, for I could get no man to go with me until
+the chief gave his sanction. I then tried to send Bombay off with Bui,
+Nasib, and their guide, by night; but though Bombay was willing, the
+other two hung back on the old plea. In this state of perplexity, Bui
+begged I would allow him to go over to Lumeresi and see what he could do
+with a present. Bui really now was my only stand-by, so I sent him off,
+and next had the mortification to find that he had been humbugged by
+honeyed words, as Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that
+Lumeresi was a good man, who really had no other desire at heart than
+the love of seeing me. His boma, he said, did not lie much out of my
+line, and he did not wish a stitch of my cloth. So far from detaining
+me, he would give me as many men as I wanted; and, as an earnest of
+his good intentions, he sent his copper hatchet, the badge of office as
+chief of the district, as a guarantee for me.
+
+To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere waste of
+time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we all marched
+over at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his boma. Lumeresi was
+not in then, but, on his arrival at night, he beat all his drums to
+celebrate the event, and fired a musket, in reply to which I fired
+three shots. The same night, whilst sitting out to make astronomical
+observations, I became deadly cold--so much so, that the instant I had
+taken the star, to fix my position, I turned into bed, but could not get
+up again; for the cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so
+violent, heightened by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before the
+next morning I was so reduced that I could not stand. For the last
+month, too, I had not been able to sleep on either side, as interior
+pressure, caused by doing so, provoked the cough; but now I had, in
+addition, to be propped in position to get any repose whatever. The
+symptoms, altogether, were rather alarming, for the heart felt inflamed
+and ready to burst, pricking and twingeing with every breath, which was
+exceedingly aggravated by constant coughing, when streams of phlegm and
+bile were ejected. The left arm felt half-paralysed, the left nostril
+was choked with mucus, and on the centre of the left shoulder blade I
+felt a pain as if some one was branding me with a hot iron. All this
+was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly felt severe pains--rather
+paroxysms of fearful twinges--in the spleen, liver, and lungs; whilst
+during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd dreams: for instance--I
+planned a march across Africa with Sir Roderick Murchison; and I fancied
+some curious creatures, half-men and half-monkeys, came into my camp to
+inform me that Petherick was waiting in boats at the south-west corner
+of the N'yanza, etc., etc.
+
+Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these
+trances, I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get out of
+Lumeresi's hands. He, with the most benign countenance, came in to see
+me, the very first thing in the morning, as he said, to inquire after my
+health; when, to please him as much as I could, I had a guard of honour
+drawn up at the tent door to fire a salute as he entered; then giving
+him my iron camp-chair to sit upon, which tickled him much--for he
+was very corpulent, and he thought its legs would break down with his
+weight--we had a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to
+remember anything, my brain was so excited and weak. Kind as he looked
+and spoke, he forgot all his promises about coveting my property, and
+scarcely got over the first salutation before he began begging for many
+things that he saw, and more especially for a deole, in order that he
+might wear it on all great occasions, to show his contemporaries what
+a magnanimous man his white visitor was. I soon lost my temper whilst
+striving to settle the hongo. Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would
+not admit that I had one.
+
+23d to 31st.--Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately, and
+roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking his faith,
+he persisted in bullying me. The day after, I took pills and blistered
+my chest all over, still Lumeresi would not let me alone, nor come to
+any kind of terms until the 25th, when he said he would take a certain
+number of pretty common cloths for his children if I would throw in a
+red blanket for himself. I jumped at this concession with the greatest
+eagerness, paid down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at
+last, ordered a hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the
+next day. Next morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing to
+start, Lumeresi found he could not let me go until I increased the tax
+by three more cloths, as some of his family complained that they had got
+nothing. After some badgering, I paid what he asked for, and ordered the
+men to carry me out of the palace before anything else was done, for
+I would not sleep another night where I was. Lumeresi then stood in my
+way, and said he would never allow a man of his country to give me any
+assistance until I was well, for he could not bear the idea of hearing
+it said that, after taking so many cloths from me, he had allowed me to
+die in the jungles--and dissuaded my men from obeying my orders.
+
+In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance left me
+of saving my life would be from the change of air in the hammock as I
+marched along. He would not listen, professing humanity, whilst he meant
+plunder; and I now found that he was determined not to beat the drum
+until I had paid him some more, which he was to think over and settle
+next day. When the next day came, he would not come near me, as he said
+I must possess a deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for
+nobody ever yet "saw" Rumanika without one. This suspension of business
+was worse than the rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. At
+last, on my offering him anything that he might consider an equivalent
+for the deole if he would but beat the drums of satisfaction, he said I
+might consider myself his prisoner instead of his guest if I persisted
+in my obstinacy in not giving him Rumanika's deole; and then again
+peremptorily ordered all of his subjects not to assist me in moving a
+load. After this, veering round for a moment on the generous tack, he
+offered me a cow, which I declined.
+
+1st to 4th.--Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd, when,
+finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I accepted it,
+hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he now said he must
+have two deoles, or he would never allow me to leave his palace. Every
+day matters got worse and worse. Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo,
+came over, in an Oily-Gammon kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him
+over to present his compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing
+that I had fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was
+closed between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and
+had killed the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and dispersed
+all the men in the jungle, where they now resided, plundering every
+man who passed that way. This gratuitous, wicked, humbugging terrifier
+helped to cause another defeat. It was all nonsense, I knew, but both
+Bui and Nasib, taking fright, begged for their discharges. In fearful
+alarm and anxiety, I begged them to have patience and see the hongo
+settled first, for there was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate
+hurry; I wished them to go on ahead with Bombay, as in four days they
+could reach Suwarora's. But they said they could not hear of it--they
+would not go a step beyond this. All the chiefs on ahead would do the
+same as Lumeresi; the whole country was roused. I had not even half
+enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my faithful followers would
+never consent to be witness to my being "torn to pieces."
+
+5th and 6th.--The whole day and half of the next went in discussions.
+At last, able for the first time to sit up a little, I succeeded in
+prevailing on Bui to promise he would go to Usui as soon as the hongo
+was settled, provided, as he said, I took on myself all responsibilities
+of the result. This cheered me so greatly, I had my chair placed under
+a tree and smoked my first pipe. On seeing this, all my men struck up a
+dance, to the sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the
+whole night, never ceasing until the evening of the next day. These
+protracted caperings were to be considered as their congratulation for
+my improvement in health; for, until I got into my chair, they always
+thought I was going to die. They then told me, with great mirth and good
+mimicry, of many absurd scenes which, owing to the inflamed state of
+my brain, had taken place during my interviews with Lumeresi. Bombay at
+this time very foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole,"
+he must send to Grant for one. This set the chief raving. He knew there
+was one in my box, he said, and unless I gave it, the one with Grant
+must be brought; for under no circumstances would he allow of my
+proceeding northwards until that was given him. Bui and Nasib then gave
+me the slip, and slept that night in a neighbouring boma without my
+knowledge.
+
+7th to 9th.--As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the deole I
+had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same time as he took
+it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself; but I hoped, now I
+had given it, he would beat the drums. The scoundrel only laughed as
+he wrapped my beautiful silk over his great broad shoulders, and said,
+"Yes, this will complete our present of friendship; now then for the
+hongo--I must have exactly double of all you have given." This Sorombo
+trick I attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never
+fail to take their revenge when they can. I had doubled back from his
+country, and now he was cutting me off in front. I expected as much
+when the oily blackguard Mfumbi came over from his chief to ask after my
+health; so, judging from my experience with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at
+once to tell me what he considered his due, for this fearful haggling
+was killing me by inches. I had no more deoles, but would make that up
+in brass wire. He then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire
+bracelets, sixteen cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of samisami
+or red coral beads, which was to pay for Grant as well as myself. I paid
+it down on the spot; the drums beat the "satisfaction," and I ordered
+the march with the greatest relief of mind possible.
+
+But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted. The shock
+nearly killed me. I had walked all the way to Kaze and back again for
+these men, to show mine a good example--had given them pay and treble
+rations, the same as Bombay and Baraka--and yet they chose to desert.
+I knew not what to do, for it appeared to me that, do what I would,
+we would never succeed; and in my weakness of body and mind I actually
+cried like a child over the whole affair. I would rather have died
+than have failed in my journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture
+inevitable.
+
+8th.--As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself, I made
+up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to Grant; after
+joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for other interpreters,
+and on his return would pick up Grant, and bring him on here. This
+sudden decision set all my men up in a flame; they swore it was no use
+my trying to go on to Karague; they would not go with me; they did not
+come here to be killed. If I chose to lose my life, it was no business
+of theirs, but they would not be witness to it. They all wanted their
+discharge at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of
+satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at Zanzibar.
+But when they found they lost all their arguments and could not move
+me, they said they would go back for Grant, but when they had done that
+duty, then they would take their leave.
+
+10th to 15th.--This business being at last settled, I wrote to Grant on
+the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick. Thinking then
+how I could best cure the disease that was keeping me down, as I found
+the blister of no use, I tried to stick a packing needle, used as a
+seton, into my side; but finding it was not sharp enough, in such weak
+hands a mine, to go through my skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing
+too, I then made him fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could
+get no sleep at night. I had now nothing whatever to think of but making
+dodges for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for cooking
+strong broths to give me strength, for my legs were reduced to the
+appearance of pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when Baraka, in the same
+doleful manner as in Sorombo, came to me and said he had something to
+communicate, which was so terrible, if I heard it I should give up the
+march. Lumeresi was his authority, but he would not tell it until Grant
+arrive. I said to him, "Let us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then
+have some one with us who won't shrink from whispers"--meaning Bombay;
+and so I let the matter drop for the time being. But when Grant came,
+we had it out of him, and found this terrible mystery all hung on
+Lumeresi's prognostications that we never should get through Usui with
+so little cloth.
+
+16th to 19th.--At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit, and
+made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it alarmed all
+the camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent to see if I was
+dying. Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a visiting excursion into
+the district, but no sooner left than the chief of Isamiro, whose place
+lies close to the N'yanza, came here to visit him (17th); but after
+waiting a day to make friends with me, he departed (18th), as I heard
+afterwards, to tell his great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of
+Ukhanga, to which district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of
+presents I had given to Lumeresi. He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda
+had sent to ascertain what exactions had been made from me, as he, being
+the great chief, was entitled to the most of them himself. On Lumeresi's
+return, all the men of the village, as well as mine, set up a dance,
+beating the drums all day and all night.
+
+20th to 21st.--Next night they had to beat their drums for a very
+different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's cattle
+in Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would never cease
+fighting until they had lifted all those that Lumeresi harboured round
+his boma; for it so happened that Lumeresi allowed a large party of
+Watosi, alias Wahuma, to keep their cattle in large stalls all round his
+boma, and these the Watuta had now set their hearts upon. After a little
+reflection, however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to
+come in at once on account of my guns.
+
+Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me. A large mixed caravan
+of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced that both
+Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for us, wondering why
+we did not come. So great, indeed, was Suwarora's desire to see us, that
+he had sent four men to invite us, and they would have been here now,
+only that one of them fell sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for
+him. I cannot say what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was
+made; and so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to
+be true. Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these men to
+carry the letter.
+
+Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived. They were a very gentle,
+nice-dispositioned-looking set of men--small, but well knit together.
+They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace; then knelt at my feet,
+and began clapping their hands together, saying, at the same time, "My
+great chief, my great chief, I hope you are well; for Suwarora, having
+heard of your detention here, has sent us over to assure you that all
+those reports that have been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of
+caravans are without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to
+deter your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him." I then
+told them all that had happened--how Grant and myself were situated--and
+begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's camp to inspire all the
+men there with confidence, and bring my rear property to me--saying,
+as they agreed to do so, "Here are some cloths and some beads for your
+expenses, and when you return I will give you more." Baraka at once,
+seeing this, told me they were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old
+man had come there and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he
+kicked him out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished
+merely to allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. I then
+wrote to Grant another letter to be delivered by these men.
+
+Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than he flew
+into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for not speaking to
+him before they came to me, and said he would not allow them to go. High
+words then ensued. I said the business was mine, and not his; he had no
+right to interfere, and they should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate,
+and determined they should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow
+any one to defraud me. It was a great insult to himself, if true, that
+Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he could not
+bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when, as we have seen,
+it took him so long to entice me to his den, and he could not prevail
+over me until he actually sent his copper hatchet.
+
+When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told the Wasui
+not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them. They said they had their
+orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not allow them to go for
+Grant, they would stop where they were, for they knew that if Suwarora
+found them delaying long, he would send more men to look after them.
+There was no peace yet, however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly
+settled down eating with my men, ordered them out of his district,
+threatening force if they did not comply at once. I tried my best for
+them, but the Wasui, fearing to stop any longer, said they would take
+leave to see Suwarora, and in eight days more they would come back
+again, bringing something with them, the sight of which would make
+Lumeresi quake. Further words were now useless, so I gave them more
+cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent them off. Baraka, who seemed
+to think this generosity a bit of insanity, grumbled that if I had
+cloths to throw away it would have been better had I disposed of them to
+my own men.
+
+Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant with
+inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for medicines. The
+messengers took four days to bring back the information that Bombay had
+not returned from Kaze, but that Grant, having got assistance, hoped to
+break ground about the 5th of next month. They brought me at the same
+time information that the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing
+off all the cattle in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their
+intention of serving out Lumeresi next. In consequence of this,
+Lumeresi daily assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his
+drum-house; but though his subjects sent to him constantly for troops,
+he would not assist them.
+
+Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I found an
+old friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst I was residing
+with Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition, taught me the way to
+make plantain-wine. He, like the rest of the porters in the caravan,
+wore a shirt of fig-tree bark called mbugu. As I shall have frequently
+to use this word in the course of the Journal, I may here give an
+explanation of its meaning. The porter here mentioned told me that the
+people about the equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up
+of numerous pieces of bark sewn together, which they stripped from the
+trees after cutting once round the trunk above and below, and then once
+more down the tree from the upper to the lower circular cutting. This
+operation did not kill the trees, because, if they covered the wound,
+whilst it was fresh, well over with plaintain-leaves, shoots grew down
+from above, and a new bark came all over it. The way they softened
+the bark, to make it like cloth, was by immersion in water, and a
+good strong application of a mill-headed mallet, which ribbed it like
+corduroy. [10] Saim told me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had
+crossed the Nile, and had traded eastward as far as the Masai country.
+He thought the N'yanza was the sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river
+which drained the N'yanza, after passing between Uganda and Usoga, went
+through Unyoro, and then all round the Tanganyika lake into the Indian
+Ocean, south of Zanzibar. Kiganda, he also said, he knew as well as his
+own tongue; and as I wanted an interpreter, he would gladly take service
+with me. This was just what I wanted--a heaven-born stroke of luck. I
+seized at his offer with avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which
+made him look quite a gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with
+a letter to Grant.
+
+1st and 2d.--A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the place,
+for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the place who had
+formerly been seized by them in war, but had since escaped and resided
+here. To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his host, and was accompanied
+by my men; but they succeeded in nothing save in frightening off their
+enemies, and regaining possession of the body of the dead woman. Then
+another hubbub arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were
+missing (2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the
+men of the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them off as
+slaves. He sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him brought back
+to account for this business. Of course the man swore he knew nothing
+about the matter, whilst Lumeresi swore he should stop there a prisoner
+until the women were freed, as it was not the first time his women had
+been stolen in this manner. About the same time a man of this place, who
+had been to Sorombo to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at
+once seized by Lumeresi; for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's
+daughters had been discovered to be with child, and she, on being asked
+who was the cause of it, pointed out that man. To compensate for damage
+done to himself, as his daughter by this means had become reduced to
+half her market-value, Lumeresi seized all the cattle this man had
+brought with him.
+
+3d to 10th.--When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing
+Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by. As she said she had
+absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she was flogged,
+to teach her better conduct. It was reported they had been seen in
+M'yonga's establishment; and I was at the same time informed that the
+husbands who were out in search of them would return, as M'yonga was
+likely to demand a price for them if they were claimed, in virtue of
+their being his rightful property under the acknowledged law of buni, or
+findings-keepings.
+
+For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could be
+heard. The Watuta were out in all directions plundering cattle and
+burning villages, and the Wahuma of this place had taken such fright,
+they made a stealthy march with all their herds to a neighbouring chief,
+to whom it happened that one of Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit.
+They thus caught a Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he
+went and flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their
+ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they sought his
+shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first alarm of war.
+
+10th.--Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I ordered
+some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all feared the Watuta
+meeting them on the way, and would not. Just then a report came in that
+one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone near the capital of Ukhanga to
+purchase cows, was seized by Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief
+telling him that Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to
+be detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or sent
+me on to be fleeced again. Lumeresi, of course, was greatly perplexed
+at this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing out of me, for
+I laughed in my sleeve, and told him such was the consequence of his
+having been too greedy.
+
+11th to 15th.--Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka--Ungurue
+"the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his kirangozi or
+caravan-leader. Masudi told us he had suffered most severely from losses
+by his men running away, one after the other, as soon as they received
+their pay. He thought Grant would soon join me, as, the harvest being
+all in, the men about Rungua would naturally be anxious for service.
+He had had fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some
+gunpowder, and a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to
+Ruhe, with the addition of twenty brass wires, one load of mzizima, and
+one load of red coral beads. This was startling, and induced me to send
+all the men I could prudently spare off to Grant at once, cautioning
+him to avoid Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had promised me he would not allow one
+other thing to be taken from me. Lumeresi by this time was improving,
+from lessons on the policy of moderation which I had been teaching him;
+for when he tried to squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had
+taken, he gave way, and let him off cheaply at my intercession. He had
+seen enough to be persuaded that this unlimited taxation or plunder
+system would turn out a losing game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo were
+at that time suffering from. Moreover, he was rather put to shame by
+my saying, "Pray, who now is biggest--Ruhe or yourself? for any one
+entering this country would suspect that he was, as he levies the first
+tax, and gives people to understand that, by their paying it, the whole
+district will be free to them; such at any rate he told me, and so it
+appears he told Masudi. If you are the sultan, and will take my advice,
+I would strongly recommend your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from
+him what the Arabs paid, and giving it back to Masudi.
+
+At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried tramp of
+several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's porters--Bogue men
+who had deserted him. Grant, they said, in incoherent, short, rapid, and
+excited sentences, was left by them standing under a tree, with nothing
+but his gun in his hand. All the Wanguana had been either killed or
+driven away by M'yonga's men, who all turned out and fell upon the
+caravan, shooting, spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left. The
+porters then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off
+to inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do. Though
+disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something
+serious must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent off
+the last of my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant, carrying with
+them a bag of beads. Baraka then stepped outside my tent, and said in a
+loud voice, purposely for my edification, "There, now, what is the use
+of thinking any more about going to Karague? I said all along it was
+impossible"; upon hearing which I had him up before all the remaining
+men, and gave him a lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go
+on with the journey, for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka
+was doing. Baraka replied, he was not afraid--he only meant to imply
+that men could not act against impossibilities. "Impossibilities!" I
+said; "what is impossible? Could I not go on as a servant with the first
+caravan, or buy up a whole caravan if I liked? What is impossible?
+For Godsake don't try any more to frighten my men, for you have nearly
+killed me already in doing so."
+
+Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the whole of
+his catastrophes:--
+
+"In the Jungles, near M'yonga's, 16th Sept. 1861.
+
+"My dear Speke,--The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men driven
+to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's country.
+
+"Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; and
+while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an angry
+discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows sent by
+Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my putting up for the day in his village.
+They were summarily told that as YOU had already made him a present,
+he need not expect a visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their
+master's instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our
+guides till we chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading
+our party, they stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our
+advance!
+
+"This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past the
+spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud
+yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made
+upon us by, say two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee.
+In an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor
+porters. The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or
+spear at their breasts, men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments,
+loads were yielded and run away with before resistance could be
+organised; only three men of a hundred stood by me, the others, whose
+only thought was their lives, fled into the woods, where I went shouting
+for them. One man, little Rahan--rip as he is--stood with cocked gun,
+defending his load, against five savages with uplifted spears. No
+one else could be seen. Two or three were reported killed; some were
+wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc., lay strewed about the woods. In
+fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and demand redress from the
+sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I seated myself among a mass
+of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after the success of the day.
+Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., they had stolen from my
+men.
+
+"In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with
+a message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his
+subjects--that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all the
+property would be restored!
+
+"Yours sincerely, J. W. Grant."
+
+Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it appeared to
+me that his men had mistaken their chief's orders, and had gone one step
+beyond his intentions. It was obvious that the chief merely intended
+to prevent Grant from passing through or evading his district without
+paying a hongo, else he would not have sent his men to invite him to his
+palace, doubtless with instructions, if necessary, to use force. This
+appears the more evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and
+finding it necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands;
+for these chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to some
+kind of system, to save themselves from a general war, or the avoidance
+of their territories by all travellers in future. To assist Grant, I
+begged Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at once; but he refused, on
+the plea that M'yonga was at war with him, and would kill them if
+they went. This was all the more provoking, as Grant, in a letter next
+evening, told me he could not get all his men together again, and wished
+to know what should be done. He had recovered all the property except
+six loads of beads, eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor
+articles, besides what had been rifled more or less from every load.
+In the same letter he asked me to deliver up a Mhuma woman to a man who
+came with the bearers of his missive, as she had made love to Saim at
+Ukulima's, and had bolted with my men to escape from her husband.
+
+On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her
+misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her parents
+at Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since had ill-treated
+her, often thrashing her, and never giving her proper food or clothing.
+It was on this account she fell in love with Saim; for he, taking
+compassion on her doleful stories, had promised to keep her as long as
+he travelled with me, and in the end to send her back to her parents
+at Ujiji. She was a beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high
+thin nose, and fine lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who
+had a good deal of Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my opinion,
+much of the same mixed Shem-Hamitic breed. But as I did not want more
+women in my camp, I gave her some beads, and sent her off with the
+messenger who claimed her, much against my own feelings. I had proposed
+to Grant that, as Lumeresi's territories extended to within eight miles
+of M'yonga's, he should try to move over the Msalala border by relays,
+when I would send some Bogue men to meet him; for though Lumeresi would
+not risk sending his men into the clutches of M'yonga, he was most
+anxious to have another white visitor.
+
+20th and 21st.--I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying it was
+incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for maltreating Grant's
+porters, who were his own subjects, else the road would be shut up--he
+would lose all the hongos he laid on caravans--and he would not be able
+to send his own ivory down to the coast. This appeal had its effect: he
+called on his men to volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no
+sooner left, than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that
+he had collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga
+had returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him in
+everything.
+
+Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts--one,
+in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he hoped to reach
+Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters was then completed;
+while by the other, which came in the evening, I was shocked to hear
+that M'yonga, after returning all the loads, much reduced by rifling,
+had demanded as a hongo two guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass
+wires, and 160 yards of American sheeting, in default of which he,
+Grant, must lend M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of
+his district, to enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his
+territory, otherwise he would not allow Grant to move from his palace.
+Grant knew not what to do. He dared not part with the guns, because
+he knew it was against my principle, and therefore deferred the answer
+until he heard from me, although all his already collected porters were
+getting fidgety, and two had bolted. In this fearful fix I sent Baraka
+off with strict orders to bring Grant away at any price, except the
+threatened sacrifice of men, guns, and ammunition, which I would not
+listen to, as one more day's delay might end in further exactions; at
+the same time, I cautioned him to save my property as far as he could,
+for it was to him that M'yonga had formerly said that what I paid him
+should do for all.
+
+Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a Tartar."
+After rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of beads, they, it
+appeared, received orders from M'yonga to sell a lot of female slaves,
+amongst whom were the two Wahuma women who had absconded from this. The
+men in charge, not knowing their history, brought them for sale
+into this district, where they were instantly recognised by some of
+Lumeresi's men, and brought in to him. The case was not examined at
+once, Lumeresi happening to be absent; so, to make good their time, the
+men in charge brought their beads to me to be exchanged for something
+else, not knowing that both camps were mine, and that they held my beads
+and not Grant's. Of course I took them from them, but did not give them
+a flogging, as I knew if I did so they would at once retaliate upon
+Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as Lumeresi arrived, were put to
+death by their husbands, because, by becoming slaves, they had broken
+the laws of their race.
+
+22d to 24th.--At last I began to recover. All this exciting news, with
+the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of good,--so much
+so, that I began shooting small birds for specimens--watching the
+blacksmiths as they made tools, spears, ad bracelets--and doctoring some
+of the Wahuma women who came to be treated for ophthalmia, in return for
+which they gave me milk. The milk, however, I could not boil excepting
+in secrecy, else they would have stopped their donations on the plea
+that this process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which
+their cattle would fall sick and dry up. I now succeeded in getting
+Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that if he
+did not release Grant at once, we would combine to force him to do so.
+They, however, left too late, for the hongo had been settled, as I was
+informed by a letter from Grant next day, brought to my by Bombay, who
+had just returned from Kaze after six weeks' absence. He brought with
+him old Nasib and another man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden
+themselves in a Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was
+settled; but they bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired
+guns to celebrate the event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by
+our fighting with Lumeresi. These cowards then made straight for Kaze,
+when Fundi Sangoro gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me, and made him
+so ashamed of his conduct that he said he would never do it again. Bui
+also was flogged, but, admitting himself to be a coward, was set to the
+"right-about." With him Bombay also brought three new deoles, for which
+I had to pay 160 dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was
+not then over. He had effected his escape in the usual manner, and was
+leading the Arabs another long march after him.
+
+Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as my
+strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was sold, for
+Ruhe had detained him for a hongo. Lumeresi also having heard of it,
+tried to interpose, according to a plan arranged between us in case of
+such a thing happening, by sending his officers to Ruhe, with an order
+not to check my "brother's" march, as I had settled accounts for all.
+Later in the day, however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let
+him go until he had paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one
+box of ammunition, and one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that
+I had only given him a trifle, under the condition that, when the big
+caravan arrived, Grant would make good the rest. I immediately read
+this letter to Lumeresi, and asked him how I should answer it, as Grant
+refused to pay anything until I gave the order.
+
+To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to interfere
+with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me to wait until
+the evening. At all events, if there were any further impediments,
+he himself would go over there with a force and release Grant. In the
+evening another messenger arrived from Grant, giving a list of his
+losses and expenses at M'yonga's. They amounted to an equivalent of
+eight loads, and were as follows:--100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces
+of beads (these had been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but
+being in my custody, I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads
+stolen from the loads; one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet stolen;
+Grant's looking-glass stolen; one saw stolen; one box ammunition stolen.
+Then paid in hongo, 160 yards cloth; 150 necklaces; one scarlet blanket,
+double; one case ammunition; ten brass wires. Lastly, there was one
+donkey beaten to death by the savages. This was the worst of all; for
+this poor brute carried me on the former journey to the southern end of
+the N'yanza, and in consequence was a great pet.
+
+As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th), I wrote
+to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and requesting
+him to pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to my inexpressible
+delight, was the next person I saw; he walked into camp, and then he was
+a good laugh over all our misfortunes. Poor Grant, he had indeed had
+a most troublesome time of it. The scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at
+Lumeresi's orders, had stopped his getting supplies of food for himself
+and his men; told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace,
+for full preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to
+avoid it; would not listen to any reference being made to avoid myself;
+badgered and bullied over every article that he extracted; and, finally,
+when he found compliance with his extortionate requests was not readily
+granted, he beat the wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the
+caravan out of his palace, to where he said they would find his men
+ready to fight it out with them. It happened that Grant had just given
+Ruhe a gun when my note arrived, on which they made an agreement, that
+it was to be restored, provided that, after the full knowledge of all
+these transactions had reached us, it was both Lumeresi's and my desire
+that it should be so.
+
+I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was the
+chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he had taken
+from me. His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had been most unjustly
+treated. Upon this the old chief hung down his head, and said it touched
+his heart more than words could tell to hear my complaint, for until I
+came that way no one had come, and I had paid him handsomely. He fully
+appreciated the good service I had done to him and his country by
+opening a road which all caravans for the future would follow if
+property dealt with. Having two heads in a country was a most dangerous
+thing, but it could not be helped for the present, as his hands were
+too completely occupied already. There were Rohinda, the Watuta, and
+M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he could attend to Ruhe; but
+when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was the chief. To bring the
+matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she ought to have something,
+because Ruhe was her son, whilst Lumeresi was only her second husband
+and consort, for Ruhe was born to her by her former husband. She
+therefore was queen.
+
+Difficulties now commenced again (28th). All the Wanguana struck, and
+said they would go no further. I argued--they argued; they wanted more
+pay--I would not give more. Bombay, who appeared the only one of my men
+anxious to go on with Grant and myself, advised me to give in, else they
+would all run away, he said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did
+go, they should be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion.
+I had sent for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and
+nothing in the world would make me alter what had been established at
+the British Consulate. There all their engagements were written down in
+the office-book, and the Consul was our judge.
+
+29th to 4th.--This shut them up, but at night two of them deserted; the
+Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find more. Whilst this
+was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my specimens, and sent them
+back by my late valet, Rahan, who also got orders to direct Sheikh Said
+to seize the two men who deserted, and take them down chained to
+the coast when he went there. On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly
+perplexed by his sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he
+must have thirty at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son.
+Further, he commanded in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who were
+with Lumeresi should be sent to him at once, adding, at the same time,
+if his royal mandate was not complied with as soon as he expected, he
+would at once send a force to seize Lumeresi, and place another man in
+his stead to rule over the district.
+
+Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief was
+displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in having at once
+two such distinguished guests, and meant by these acts only to humble
+him. I replied, if that was the case, the sooner he allowed us to go,
+the better it would be for him; and, reminding him of his original
+promise to give me assistance on to Usui, said he could do so now with a
+very good grace.
+
+Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me one
+of his officers to be my guide--his name was Sangizo. This man no sooner
+received his orders than, proud of his office as the guide of such a
+distinguished caravan, he set to work to find us porters. Meanwhile my
+Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of August, returned, bearing what
+might be called Suwarora's mace--a long rod of brass bound up in stick
+charms, and called Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things."
+This they said was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this
+Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went.
+
+5th.--Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the
+power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the night,
+leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back my gun and
+all the other things that had been taken from Grant. The same night a
+large herd of cattle was stolen from the boma without any one knowing
+it; so next morning, when the loss was discovered, all the Wahuma set
+off on the spoor to track them down; but with what effect I never knew.
+
+As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a start of
+it, leaving Grant to bring up the rest. I believe I was a most miserable
+spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at each step I took, with
+shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging like a dead leg, which I was
+unable ever to swing. Grant, remarking this, told me then, although fro
+a friendly delicacy he had abstained from saying so earlier, that my
+condition, when he first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening
+shock. Next day (7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried
+by men who had taken service for that one march only.
+
+Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the few
+villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the Sorombo
+people and the Watuta. We therefore had to lay in rations for those
+days, and as no men could be found who would take service to Karague,
+we filled up our complement with men at exorbitant wages to carry our
+things on to Usui. At this place, to our intense joy, three of Sheikh
+Said's boys came to us with a letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our
+spirits at once fell far below zero, for it only informed us that he
+had sent us all kinds of nice things, and letters from home, which were
+packed up in boxes, and despatched from the coast on the 30th October
+1860.
+
+The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left the
+boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were detained
+there, whilst he went rapidly round by the south, following up the Ruaha
+river to Usanga and Usenga, whence he struck across to Kaze. Sheikh
+Said, they said, sent his particular respects to me; he had heard of
+Grant's disasters with great alarm. If he could be of service, he
+would readily come to me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me
+marching into Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would
+prove good, and he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front,
+and push boldly on. Manua Sera was still in the field, and all was
+uncertain. Bombay then told me--he had forgotten to do so before--that
+when he was last at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he was sure we would
+succeed if both he and myself pulled together, although it was well
+known no one else of my party wished to go northwards.
+
+With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together, walking
+over a new style of country. Instead of the constantly-recurring
+outcrops of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys between, there were
+only two lines of little hills visible, one right and one left of us, a
+good way off; whilst the ground over which we were travelling, instead
+of being confined like a valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone
+formation, covered with small forest-trees, among which flowers like
+primroses, only very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were
+frequently met with. Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together,
+for all my men were paid and rationed trebly--far better than they would
+have been if they had been travelling with any one else; but I had not
+paid all, as they thought, proportionably, and therefore there were
+constant heartburnings, with strikes and rows every day. It was
+useless to tell them that they were all paid according to their own
+agreements--that all short-service men had a right to expect more in
+proportion to their work than long-service ones; they called it all love
+and partiality, and in their envy would think themselves ill-used.
+
+At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all hands
+to keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were constantly
+hovering about, and the men should not squabble and fight with their
+master, else no more white men would come this way again. On the 11th we
+were out of Bogue, in the district of Ugomba, and next march brought
+us into Ugombe (12th), where we crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining
+westwards to the Malagarai river. Here some of the porters, attempting
+to bolt, were intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for
+they fired arrows, and in return the coast-men cut their bows. The whole
+camp, of course, was in a blaze at this; their tribe was insulted, and
+they would not stand it, until Bombay put down their pride with a few
+strings of beads, as the best means of restoring peace in the camp.
+
+At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo
+(Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his way, for
+he feared we might give him the slip by going west into Uyofu. He sent
+us a cow, and said he should like some return; for Masudi, who had
+gone ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to be our vanguard, and
+telling him that as soon as we came with the large caravan we would
+satisfy him to his heart's content. We wished for an interview, but he
+would not see us, as he was engaged looking into his magic horn, with an
+endeavour to see what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever
+come that way before.
+
+The old sort of thing occurred again. I sent him one kitambi and eight
+yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from theft and
+desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but instead of doing so he
+sent the things back in a huff, after a whole day's delay, and said he
+required, besides, one sahari, one kitambi, and eight yards kiniki. In a
+moment I sent them over, and begged he would beat the drums; but no,
+he thought he was entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would
+accept them at his palace the next day, as he could not think of
+allowing us to leave his country until we had done him that honour, else
+all the surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable.
+
+Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through
+Bombay, if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would give
+them, and then go to his palace, not otherwise. He acceded to this, but
+no sooner got them, than he broke his faith, and said he must either
+have more pretty cloths, or five more brass wires, and then, without
+doubt, he would beat the drums. A long badgering bargain ensued,
+at which I made all my men be present as witnesses, and we finally
+concluded the hongo with four more brass wires.
+
+The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui
+mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible manner,
+dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated me on the
+cessation of this tormenting business. Feeling much freer, we now went
+over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had to halt there a day to
+collect more porters, as half my men had just bolted. This was by no
+means an easy job, for all my American sheeting was out, and so was the
+kiniki. Pongo then for the first time showed himself, sneaking about
+with an escort, hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might
+bewitch him. Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded
+his men to take service with us at the enormous hire of ten necklaces of
+beads per man for every day's march--nearly ten times what an Arab pays.
+Fowls were as plentiful here as elsewhere, though the people only kept
+them to sell to travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving
+purposes, by inspection of their blood and bones.
+
+From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe into
+the district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief, N'yaruwamba, and at
+once went into the hongo business. He offered a cow to commence with,
+which I would not accept until the tax was paid, and then I made my
+offering of two wires, one kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then
+commenced: I must add two wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima
+beads, the latter being due to the chief for negotiating the tax. When
+this addition was paid, we should be freed by beat of drum.
+
+I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect
+and friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word. The
+scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said a man had
+just come there to inform him that I gave Pongo ten wires and ten cloths;
+he, therefore, could not be satisfied until I added one more wire, when,
+without fail, he would beat the drums. It was given, after many angry
+words; but it was the old story over again--he would have one more wire
+and a cloth, or else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow. My
+men, this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;--a king
+breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to be paid;
+and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction.
+
+From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which was
+a wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from those of
+Suwarora. We put up in a boma, but were not long ensconced there when
+the villagers got up a pretext for a quarrel, thinking they could
+plunder us of all our goods, and began pitching into my men. We,
+however, proved more than a match for them. Our show of guns frightened
+them all out of the place; my men then gave chase, firing off in the
+air, which sent them flying over the fields, and left us to do there as
+we liked until night, when a few of the villagers came back and took up
+their abode with us quietly. Next, after dark, the little village was on
+the alert again. The Watuta were out marching, and it was rumoured
+that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's. The porters who were engaged at
+Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were consequently detained here next
+day (19th), when, after engaging a fresh set, we crossed the wilderness,
+and in Usui put up with Suwarora's border officer of this post,
+N'yamanira.
+
+Here we were again brought to a standstill.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VII. Usui
+
+Taxation recommenced--A Great Doctor--Suwarora pillaging--The
+Arabs--Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda--Disputes in
+Camp--Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka--Departure from the Inhospitable
+Districts.
+
+We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own ground
+forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay before they
+would allow us to move one step farther. At first I tried to stave
+the matter off, promising great rewards if they took us quickly on to
+Suwarora; but they would take no alternative--their rights were four
+wires each. I could not afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down,
+but without effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain
+us here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage
+by the officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to their
+chief had any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these countries was
+a powerful enemy, I ordered them to be paid. N'yamanira, the Mkungu,
+then gave us a goat and two pots of pombe, begging, at the same time,
+for four wires, which I paid, hoping thus to get on in the morning.
+
+I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as well as
+an officer. In front of his hut he had his church or uganga--a tree,
+in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged with magic powder, and
+a zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over a pot of water sunk in the
+earth below it. His badges of office he had tied on his head; the
+butt of a shell, representing the officer's badge, being fixed on the
+forehead, whilst a small sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple,
+denoted that he was a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical
+arts, as I laughed at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting
+spring of water by simply scratching the ground. He, however, drew short
+up, to the intense delight of my men, on my promising that I would do so
+if he made one first.
+
+At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted from our
+camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show us the use
+of his horn. This was promised, but never performed. I then wished to
+leave, as the Wasui guides, on receiving their pay, promised we should;
+but they deferred, on the plea that one of them must see their chief
+first, and get him to frank us through, else, they said, we should be
+torn to pieces. I said I thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but
+they said, "No; Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare
+him properly for your coming; so stop here for three days with two of
+us, whilst the third one goes to the palace and returns again; for you
+know the chiefs of these countries do not feel safe until they have a
+look at the uganga."
+
+One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man named
+Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted brother
+K'yengo's request. Makinga then told us that Suwarora, on first hearing
+that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and said he would not let
+us set eyes on his country, as he was sure we were king-dethroners;
+but, referring for opinion to Dr K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the
+doctor assuring him that he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar;
+and he knew, moreover, that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and
+to Ukerewe without having done any harm in those places; and, further,
+since Musa had sent word that I had done my best to subdue the war at
+Unyanyembe, and had promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora, had
+been anxiously watching our movements, and longed for our arrival. This
+looked famous, and it was agreed we should move the next morning. Just
+then a new light broke in on my defeat at Sorombo, for with Makinga I
+recognised one of my former porters, who I had supposed was a "child" of
+the Pig's. This man now said before all my men, Baraka included, that he
+wished to accept the load of mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would
+go forward with Baraka and tell Suwarora I wanted some porters to help
+me to reach him. He was not a "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of
+K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not allow him to accept the load of
+mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself, and told all that had
+happened. It was now quite clear what motives induced Suwarora to send
+out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka for this in my heart,
+though I said nothing about it to him, for fear of his playing some more
+treacherous tricks. Grant then told me Baraka had been frightened at
+Mininga, by a blackguard Mganga to whom he would not give a present,
+into the belief that our journey would encounter some terrible
+mishap; for, when the M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a
+fulfillment of the Mganga's prophecy.
+
+I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready, but was
+told by Makinga he must be settled with first. His dues for the present
+were four brass wires, and as many more when we reached the palace.
+I could not stand this: we were literally, as Musa said we should be,
+being "torn to pieces"; so I appealed to the mace-bearers, protested
+that Makinga could have no claims on me, as he was not a man of Usui,
+but a native of Utambara, and brought on a row. On the other hand, as
+he could not refute this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and
+set a-fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn.
+
+To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the district
+officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort us on to
+Suwarora's if we would stop till next morning. This was agreed to; but
+in the night we were robbed of three goats, which he said he could not
+allow to be passed over, lest Suwarora might hear of it, and he would
+get into a scrape. He pressed us strongly to stop another day whilst
+he sought for them, but I told him I would not, as his magic powder was
+weak, else he would have found the scabbard we lost long before this.
+
+At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long forest,
+we emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a most
+convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of sandstone.
+In all the parts not under cultivation they were covered with brushwood.
+Here the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a boma, but were
+hidden in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept by the
+Wahuma, who could not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a
+bean called maharague.
+
+Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to Vikora's,
+another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a sandstone hill, faced
+with a dyke of white quartz, over which leaped a small stream of
+water--a seventy-feet drop--which, it is said, Suwarora sometimes paid
+homage to when the land was oppressed by drought. Vikora's father it was
+whom Sirboko of Mininga shot. Usually he was very severe with merchants
+in consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the messenger
+who went on to Suwarora returned here just as we arrived, to say we must
+come on at once, as Suwarora was anxious to see us, and had ordered his
+Wakungu not to molest us. Thieves that night entered our ringfence of
+thorns, and stole a cloth from off one of my men while he was sleeping.
+
+We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular trump,"
+and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable mirth, singing
+his praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on the summit than we
+sang a very different tune. We were ordered to stop by a huge body of
+men, and to pay toll.
+
+Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he had been
+overruled by two of his officers--Kariwami, who lived here, and Virembo,
+who lived two stages back, but were then with their chief. There was no
+help for it, so I ordered the camp to be formed, and sent Nasib and the
+mace-bearers at once off to the palace to express to his highness how
+insulted I felt as his guest, being stopped in this manner, even when
+I had his Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited
+there as a guest. I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a
+prince like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and Rumanika.
+I was waiting at night for the return of the messengers, and sitting
+out with my sextant observing the stars, to fix my position, when some
+daring thieves, in the dark bushes close by, accosted two of the women
+of the camp, pretending a desire to know what I was doing. They were
+no sooner told by the unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their
+cloths and ran away with them, allowing their victims to pass me in
+a state of absolute nudity. I could stand this thieving no longer.
+My goats and other things had been taken away without causing me much
+distress of mind, but now, after this shocking event, I ordered my men
+to shoot at any thieves that came near them.
+
+This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the next
+morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he had died of
+his wound. The Wasui elders, contrary to my expectation, then came and
+congratulated us on our success. They thought us most wonderful men,
+and possessed of supernatural powers; for the thief in question was a
+magician, who until now was thought to be invulnerable. Indeed, they
+said Arabs with enormous caravans had often been plundered by these
+people; but though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never
+succeeded in killing one.
+
+Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our complaint,
+and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere with the rights
+of his officers. He did not wish himself to take anything from us, and
+hoped we would come on to him as soon as we had satisfied his officers
+with the trifle they wanted. Virembo then sent us some pombe by his
+officers, and begged us to have patience, for he was then fleecing
+Masudi at the encamping-ground near the palace. This place was alive
+with thieves. During the day they lured my men into their huts by
+inviting them to dinner; but when they got them they stripped them
+stark-naked and let them go again; whilst at night they stone our camp.
+After this, one more was shot dead and two others wounded.
+
+I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his officers
+merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from travellers,
+paying the balance into the royal coffers. Thinking I was now well in
+for a good fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off to Masudi's camp, to tell
+Insangez, who was travelling with him on a mission of his master's, old
+Musa's son, that I would reward him handsomely if he would, on arrival
+at Karague, get Rumanika to send us his mace here in the same way as
+Suwarora had done to help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time
+said he would go with us to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone,
+Virembo then deputed Kariwami to take the hongo for both at once, mildly
+requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths, and 400 necklaces of every kind of bead
+we possessed. This was, indeed, too much of a joke. I complained of all
+the losses I had suffered, and begged for mercy; but all he said,
+after waiting the whole day, was, "Do not stick at trifles; for, after
+settling with us, you will have to give as much more to Vikora, who
+lives down below."
+
+Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an exorbitant
+tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an offer which I did by
+sending him four wires. These, of course, were rejected with scorn; so,
+in addition, I sent an old box. That, too, was thrown back on me, as
+nothing short of 20 wires, 40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of
+beads, would satisfy him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as
+he had been so moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been
+so reduced by robbery. I now sent six wires more, and said this was
+the last I could give--they were worth so many goats to me--and now by
+giving them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor man, though
+I was a prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. Surely Suwarora
+could not permit this if he knew it; and if they would not suffice, I
+should have to stop here until called again by Suwarora. The ruffian, on
+hearing this, allowed the wires to lie in his hut, and said he was
+going away, but hoped, when he returned, I should have, as I had got
+no cloths, 20 wires, and 1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all
+ready for him.
+
+Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great
+success. He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my message to
+Insangez. Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight unable to settle
+his hongo, for the great Mkama had not deigned to see him, though the
+Arab had been daily to his palace requesting an interview. "Well," I
+said, "that is all very interesting, but what next?--will the big king
+see us?" "O no; by the very best good fortune in the world, on going
+into the palace I saw Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so
+tremendously drunk, he could not understand me." "What luck was there
+in that?" I asked. On which Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in the place
+congratulated me on my success in having obtained an interview with that
+great monarch the very first day, when Arabs had seldom that privilege
+under one full month of squatting; even Masudi had not yet seen him." To
+which Nasib also added, "Ah, yes--indeed it is so--a monstrous success;
+there is great ceremony as well as business at these courts; you will
+better see what I mean when you get to Uganda. These Wahuma kings are
+not like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or anywhere else; they have
+officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan at Zanzibar." "Well,"
+said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?" "Oh, he is a very fine
+man--just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in fact, if Grant
+were black you would not know the difference." "And were his officers
+drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk together; men were bringing in
+pombe all day." "And did you get drunk?" "O yes," said Bombay, grinning,
+and showing his whole row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD make me
+drink; and then they showed me the place they assigned for your camp
+when you come over there. It was not in the palace, but outside, without
+a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence." I then sent
+Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling till night
+with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen brass wires, two
+cloths, and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white porcelain beads--which,
+reduced, amounted to three hundred necklaces; else he said I might stop
+there for a month.
+
+At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven additional
+wires in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the termination of this
+tedious affair, I ordered a march. Like magic, however, Vikora turned
+up, and said we must wait until he was settled with. His rank was the
+same as the others, and one bead less than I had given them he would not
+take. I fought all the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his
+officers to take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with
+the journey.
+
+Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry watercourse,
+full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the heights of which we
+saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the Uthungu valley, behind which
+again rose another hill of sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of
+white quartz. The scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of
+great extent, were well laid out to give effect. Three circles of milk
+bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence. The chief's
+hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since the kingdom is
+divided in two) was three times as large as any of the others, and stood
+by itself at the farther end; whilst the smaller huts, containing his
+officers and domestics, were arranged in little groups within a circle,
+at certain distances apart from one another, sufficient to allow of
+their stalling their cattle at night.
+
+On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding the men,
+found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan until his dues were
+paid. He was a stranger like ourselves, and was consequently treated
+with scorn, until he tried to maintain what he called his right, by
+pulling the loads off my men's shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him
+into submission, and all went on again--not to the palace, as we had
+supposed, but, by the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of
+Suwarora's commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we
+found Masudi's camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves and
+arranged all our loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I thought we had
+settled with before we started, made a claim for some more wire, cloth,
+and beads, as he had not received as much as Kariwani and Virembo. Of
+course I would not listen to this, as I had paid what his men asked for,
+and that was enough for me. Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who
+were travelling with him, came over to pay us a visit, and inquire
+what we thought of the Usui taxes. He had just concluded his hongo to
+Suwarora by paying 80 wires, 120 yards of cloth, and 130 lb. of beads,
+whilst he had also paid to every officer from 20 to 40 wires, as well
+as cloths and beads. On hearing of my transactions, he gave it as his
+opinion that I had got off surprisingly well.
+
+Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague. They had
+been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all the time to get
+along. Provisions here were abundant--hawked about by the people, who
+wore a very neat skin kilt strapped round the waist, but otherwise were
+decorated like the Wanyamuezi. It was difficult to say who were of true
+breed here, for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and
+the Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst the
+people. Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with hazel eyes as
+at this place.
+
+In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay his
+respects to us. He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made up of a
+number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as kid, and just
+as well sewn as our gloves. To our surprise the manners of the man
+were quite in keeping with his becoming dress. I was enchanted with his
+appearance, and so were my men, though no one could speak to him but
+Nasib, who told us he knew him before. He was the brother of the dowager
+queen of Uganda, and, along with a proper body of officers, he had been
+sent by Mtesa, the present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of
+Suwarora, as reports had reached his king that she was surprisingly
+beautiful. They had been here more than a year, during which time this
+beautiful virgin had died; and now Suwarora, fearful of the great king's
+wrath, consequent on his procrastinations, was endeavouring to make
+amends for it, by sending, instead of his daughter, a suitable tribute
+in wires. I thought it not wonderful that we should be fleeced.
+
+Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first man in
+the state. He certainly was a nice-looking young man, with a good deal
+of the Wahuma blood in him. Flashily dressed in coloured cloths and a
+turban, he sat down in one of our chairs as if he had been accustomed to
+such a seat all his life, and spoke with great suavity. I explained our
+difficulties as those of great men in misfortune; and, after listening
+to our tale, he said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been
+plundered, and impress upon him to deal lightly with us. I said I had
+brought with me a few articles of European manufacture for Suwarora,
+which I hoped would be accepted if I presented them, for they were
+such things as only great men like his chief ever possessed. One was a
+five-barrelled pistol, another a large block-in box, and so fourth; but
+after looking at them, and seeing the pistol fired, he said; "No; you
+must not shew these things at first, or the Mkama might get frightened,
+thinking them magic. I might lose my head for presuming to offer them,
+and then there is no knowing what might happen afterwards." "Then can I
+not see him at once and pay my respects, for I have come a great way to
+obtain that pleasure?" "No," said Sirhid, "I will see him first; for he
+is not a man like myself, but requires to be well assured before he sees
+anybody." "Then why did he invite me here!" "He heard that Makaka, and
+afterwards Lumeresi, had stopped your progress; and as he wished to see
+what you were like, he ordered me to send some men to you, which, as you
+know, I did twice. He wishes to see you, but does not like doing things
+in a hurry. Superstition, you know, preys on these men's minds who have
+not seen the world like you and myself." Sirhid then said he would ask
+Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon as possible; then, whilst
+leaving, he begged for the iron chair he had sat upon; but hearing we
+did not know how to sit on the ground, and therefore could not spare it,
+he withdrew without any more words about it.
+
+Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as his
+proxy Kariwami had been satisfied with too little. I drove him off in
+a huff, but he soon came back again with half the hongo I had paid
+to Kariwami, and said he must have some cloths or he would not have
+anything. As fortune decreed it, just then Sirhid dropped in, and
+stopped him importunity for the time by saying that if we had possessed
+cloths his men must have known it, for they had been travelling with
+us. No sooner, however, did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us
+a broad hint that he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he
+made an attempt at arranging the hongo with Suwarora. Any trifle would
+do but he preferred cloth.
+
+This was rather perplexing. Sirhid knew very well that I had a small
+reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had been expended;
+so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be our intercessor, I said
+I would give him the last I had got if he would not tell Suwarora or any
+one else what I had done. Of course he was quite ready to undertake the
+condition, so I gave him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two
+goats. But when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise
+he said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to doctor
+a sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country so skilled
+in medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will leave Karambule, my
+brother, to officiate in my stead about taking your hongo; but the
+work will not commence until to-morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the
+subject myself first."
+
+Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and begged
+for beads. He said his king had heard of our approach, and was most
+anxious to see us. Hearing this I begged him to wait here until my hongo
+was paid, that we might travel on to Uganda together. He said, No, he
+could not wait, for he had been detained here a whole year already; but,
+if I liked, he would leave some of his children behind with me, as
+their presence would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off
+quickly.
+
+I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle to his
+king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most desirous of seeing
+him. No one, I said, but myself could tell what dangers and difficulties
+I had encountered to come thus far for the purpose, and all was owing to
+his great fame, as the king of kings, having reached me even as far off
+as Zanzibar. The ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master,
+who had never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had
+brought him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing his
+head. I then tried to prevail on him to take a knife and some other
+pretty things, but he feared them all; so, as a last chance--for I
+wished to send some token, by way of card or letter, for announcing
+my approach and securing the road--I gave him a red six-penny
+pocket-handkerchief, which he accepted; and he then told me he was
+surprised I had come all this way round to Uganda, when the road by the
+Masai country was so much shorter. He told me how, shortly after the
+late king of Uganda, Sunna, died, and before Mtesa had been selected
+by the officers of the country to be their king, an Arab caravan came
+across the Masai as far as Usoga, and begged for permission to enter
+Uganda; but as the country was disturbed by the elections, the officers
+of the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come again when the king
+was elected. I told him I had heard of this before, but also heard that
+those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the turbulence of the
+Masai. To which he replied: "That is true; there were great difficulties
+in those times, but now the Masai country was in better order; and as
+Mtesa was most anxious to open that line, he would give me as many men
+as I liked if I wished to go home that way."
+
+This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs had told
+me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had frequently offered to
+aid them in it himself. Still it was most gratifying to myself as I had
+written to the Geographical Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found
+Petherick in Uganda, or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the
+Nile question was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the
+Masai country. In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the
+habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished to
+visit them--even as many as two hundred at a time--to carry their kit;
+so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should want at least sixty
+men; and then, on his promising that he would be my commissioner, I gave
+him the beads he had begged for himself.
+
+4th to 6th.--Karambule now told us to string our beads on the fibre of
+the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he intended to live
+in the palace for a couple of days, arranging with Suwarora what tax we
+should have to pay, after which he would come and take it from us; but
+we must mind and be ready, for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done
+instantly. There was no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay
+and be off at once, failing which you might be detained a whole month
+before there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again.
+Beads were then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain
+quantity to every kambi or mess, and our work was progressing; but next
+day we heard that Karambule was sick or feigning to be so, and therefore
+had never gone to the palace at all. On the 6th, provoked at last by the
+shameful manner in which we were treated, I send word to him to say,
+if he did not go at once I would go myself, and force my way in with my
+guns, for I could not submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out
+here in the jungle with nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make
+collections of rocks, etc. This brought on another row; for he said both
+Virembo and Vikora had returned their hongos, and until their tongues
+were quieted he could not speak to Suwarora.
+
+To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a tax
+of itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one pretty cloth,
+and five hundred necklaces of white beads, which were no sooner accepted
+than Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid had done, said it would be
+greatly to my advantage if I gave him something worth having before he
+saw the Mkama. Only too glad to being work I gave him a red blanket,
+called joho, and five strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to
+fifty of the common white.
+
+8th and 9th.--All this time nothing but confusion reigned in camp,
+khambi fighting against khambi. Both men and women got drunk, whilst
+from outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both men and women
+pertinaciously pressing into our hut, watching us eat, and begging in
+the most shameless manner. They did not know the word bakhshish, or
+present; but, as bad as the Egyptians, they held our their hands, patted
+their bellies, and said Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the
+sound of that word. Still it was impossible to dislike these simple
+creatures altogether, they were such perfect children. If we threw water
+at them to drive them away, they came back again, thinking it fun.
+
+Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was done
+(10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so fully occupied
+collecting an army to punish an officer who had refused to pay his
+taxes, had ignored his authority, and had set himself up as king of
+the district he was appointed to superintend. After this, at midnight,
+Karambule, in an excited manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then
+was appointed that, not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as
+well as the Wahinda, or princes' shares, the next morning--after which
+we might go as fast as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied with
+his army he could not see us this time. Before, however, the hongo could
+be paid, I must give the Sirhid and himself twenty brass wires, three
+joho, three barsati, twenty strings of mzizima, and one thousand strings
+of white beads. They were given.
+
+A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th). Many of
+my men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my prohibition.
+Baraka, for instance, had with him the daughter of Ungurue, chief of
+Phunze; Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka; Sangizo, his wife and sister;
+but Bombay had not got one, and mourned for a girl he had set his eyes
+on, unfortunately for himself letting Baraka into his confidence. This
+set Baraka on the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew
+he could not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore
+watched his opportunity to lay a complaint against him of purloining my
+property, by which scheme he would, he thought, get Bombay's place as
+storekeeper himself. In a sly manner Bombay employed some of my other
+men to take five wires, a red blanket, and 500 strings of beads, to his
+would-be father-in-law, which, by a previously-concocted arrangement,
+was to be her dowry price. These men did as they were bid; but the
+father-in-law returned things, saying he must have one more wire. That
+being also supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss
+about it, that Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and
+told me of it.
+
+This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were both
+very drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was with great
+difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their stories. Bombay
+acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for they had been
+sentimentalising together for several days, and both alike wished to be
+married. Baraka, he said, was allowed to keep a wife, and his position,
+demanded that he should have one also; but the wires were his own
+property, and not mine, for he was given them by the chiefs as a
+perquisite when I paid their hongo through him. He thought it most
+unjust and unfair of Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he
+was not surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to
+the present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and usurp his
+position. Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said there were no
+such things as perquisites on a journey like this; for whatever could
+be saved from the chiefs was for the common good of all, and all alike
+ought to share in it--repeating words I had often expressed. Then Bombay
+retorted trembling and foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the
+worst of it, for whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only
+an inch; but I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase
+slaves with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I,
+for any purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a wife,
+that's a different thing."
+
+In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but thought
+it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding him out, which
+drove Bombay nearly wild. He wished me to degrade him, if I thought
+him dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and kissed my feet. I might
+thrash him, turn him into a porter, or do anything else that I liked
+with him, as long as I did not bring a charge of dishonesty against him.
+He could not explain himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him,
+but there were many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge
+at Bogue, which he must leave for settlement till the journey was over,
+and then, the whole question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would
+see who was the most honest. I then counted all the wires over, at
+Bombay's request, and found them complete in numbers, without those he
+had set aside from the dowry money. Still there was a doubt, for
+the wires might have been cut by him without detection, as from the
+commencement they were of different lengths. However, I tried to make
+them friends, claimed all the wires myself, and cautioned every man
+in the camp again, that they were all losers when anything was
+misappropriated; for I brought this property to pay our way with and
+whatever balance was over at the end of the journey I would divide
+amongst the whole of them.
+
+12th and 13th.--When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a thousand
+pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my feet, then at
+Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap (father and mother); he
+had no father or mother to teach him better; he owed all his prosperity
+to me; men must err sometimes; oh, if I would only forgive him,--and so
+forth. Then being assured that I knew he never would have done as he
+had if a woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work
+again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister to
+wife on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the needful out
+of his pay, and to return her to her brother when the journey was over.
+
+In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo for their
+chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300 strings of mzizima,
+and 5000 strings of white beads; but they allowed themselves to be
+beaten down to 50 wires, 20 pretty cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000
+kutuamnazi, or cocoa-nut-leaf coloured beads, my white being all done.
+It was too late, however, to count all the things out, so they came the
+next day and took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had
+settled with the Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for Suwarora
+could not see us this time, as he was so engaged with his army; but he
+hoped to see us and pay us more respect when we returned from Uganda,
+little thinking that I had sworn in my mind never to see him, or return
+that way again. I said to those men, I thought he was ashamed to see us,
+as he had robbed us so after inviting us into the country, else he was
+too superstitious, for he ought at least to have given us a place in his
+palace. They both rebutted the insinuation; and, to change the subject,
+commenced levying the remaining dues to the princes, which ended by my
+giving thirty-four wires and six pretty cloths in a lump.
+
+Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to have
+got off so cheaply. Then men were appointed as guides and protectors, to
+look after us as far as the border. What an honour! We had come into
+the country drawn there by a combination of pride and avarice and now
+we were leaving it in hot haste under the guidance of an escort of
+officers, who were in reality appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards
+and objects of terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought
+of the prospect of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone
+through.
+
+Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained
+in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered
+in small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared
+away. On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed
+a stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information,
+though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country
+we had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing
+in the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by
+a branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately
+pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by
+Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road;
+but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At
+first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo
+had done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz
+and two bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security
+against any further molestation.
+
+Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
+formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a
+stiff pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati,
+which was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep
+down its well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect
+for a trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the
+valley was clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all
+descriptions, amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm,
+and rich gardens of plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size
+and wild indigo were the more common weeds. The land beyond that again
+rolled back in high undulations, over which, in the far distance, we
+could see a line of cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down
+with white streaks, looking for all the world like recent volcanoes;
+and in the far background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy
+hills of Karague and Kishakka.
+
+On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path;
+seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief
+cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that good omen!--now our journey
+will be sure to be prosperous." After fording the stream, we sat down to
+rest, and were visited by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than
+any people we had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty,
+did not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us--for evil thoughts
+were not in their minds. From this we rose over a stony hill to the
+settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui frontier,
+induced me to give our guides three wires each, and four yards of
+bindera, which Nasib said was their proper fee. Here Bombay's would-be,
+but disappointed, father-in-law sent after us to say that he required
+a hongo; Suwarora had never given his sanction to our quitting
+his country; his hongo even was not settled. He wished, moreover,
+particularly to see us; and if we did not return in a friendly manner,
+an army would arrest our march immediately.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter VIII. Karague
+
+Relief from Protectors and Pillagers--The Scenery and Geology--Meeting
+with the Friendly King Rumanika--His Hospitalities and Attention--His
+Services to the Expedition--Philosophical and Theological Inquiries--The
+Royal Family of Karague--The M-Fumbiro Mountain--Navigation of "The
+Little Windermere"--The New-Moon Levee--Rhinoceros and
+Hippopotamus Hunting--Measurement of a Fattened Queen--Political
+Polygamy--Christmas--Rumours of Petherick's Expedition--Arrangements to
+meet it--March to Uganda.
+
+This was a day of relief and happiness. A load was removed from us
+in seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly cheering
+information that we now had nothing but wild animals to contend with
+before reaching Karague. This land is "neutral," by which is meant that
+it is untenanted by human beings; and we might now hope to bid adieu
+for a time to the scourging system of taxation to which we had been
+subjected.
+
+Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati valley
+from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the track led
+us first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and then through a
+passage between the "saddle-back" domes we had seen from the heights
+above Lohugati, where a new geological formation especially attracted my
+notice. From the green slopes of the hills, set up at a slant, as if
+the central line of pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside
+plates, protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae
+presented a beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating with
+creamy-white. Quartz and other igneous rocks were also scattered about,
+lying like superficial accumulations in the dips at the foot of the
+hills, and red sandstone conglomerates clearly indicated the presence
+of iron. The soil itself looked rich and red, not unlike our own fine
+country of Devon.
+
+On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were
+greeted by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. This was
+Kachuchu, an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw him than, beaming
+with delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not right when I told you the
+birds flying about on Lohugati hill were a good omen? Look here what
+this man says: Rumanika has ordered him to bring you on to his palace at
+once, and wherever you stop a day, the village officers are instructed
+to supply you with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes
+gathered from strangers in the kingdom of Karague. Presents may
+be exchanged, but the name of tax is ignored." Grant here shot a
+rhinoceros, which came well into play to mix with the day's flour we had
+carried on from Vihembe.
+
+Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru lo
+Urigi, espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the belief
+that we were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked triumphantly
+along, thinking how well the Arabs at Kaze had described this to be
+a creek of the great lake; but on arrival in camp we heard from the
+village officer that we had been misinformed, and that it was a detached
+lake, but connected with the Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills
+and the Kitangule river. Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered
+with water, extending up to Uhha, when all the low lands we had crossed
+from Usui had to be ferried, and the saddle-back hills were a mere chain
+of islands in the water. But the country had dried up, and the lake of
+Urigi became a small swamp. He further informed us, that even in the
+late king Dagara's time it was a large sheet of water; but the instant
+he ceased to exist, the lake shrank to what we now saw.
+
+Our day's march had been novel and very amusing. The hilly country
+surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to recollection
+many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in the Thibetian
+valley of the Indus--only this was more picturesque; for though both
+countries are wild, and very thinly inhabited, this was greened over
+with grass, and dotted here and there on the higher slopes with thick
+bush of acacias, the haunts of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst
+in the flat of the valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed
+about like the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet. Then, to enhance all these
+pleasure, so different from our former experiences, we were treated like
+guests by the chief of the place, who, obeying the orders of his king,
+Rumanika, brought me presents, as soon as we arrived, of sheep, fowls,
+and sweet potatoes, and was very thankful for a few yards of red
+blanketing as a return, without begging for more.
+
+The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as the
+people were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs were so
+civil, that we could do as we liked. After following down the left
+side of the valley and entering the village, the customary presents and
+returns were made. Wishing then to obtain a better view of the country,
+I strolled over the nearest hills, and found the less exposed slopes
+well covered with trees. Small antelopes occasionally sprang up from
+the grass. I shot a florikan for the pot; and as I had never before seen
+white rhinoceros, killed one now; though, as no one would eat him, I
+felt sorry rather than otherwise for what I had done. When I returned
+in the evening, small boys brought me sparrows for sale; and then I
+remembered the stories I had heard from Musa Mzuri--that in the whole of
+Karague the small birds were so numerous, the people, to save themselves
+from starvation were obliged to grow a bitter corn which the birds
+disliked; and so I found it. At night, whilst observing for latitude,
+I was struck by surprise to see a long noisy procession pass by where I
+sat, led by some men who carried on their shoulders a woman covered up
+in a blackened skin. On inquiry, however, I heard she was being taken to
+the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling fashion," she would be put in
+bed; but it was only with virgins they took so much trouble.
+
+A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears. Masudi, the
+merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to deter
+Rumanika from allowing us to enter his country, by saying we were
+addicted to sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's remonstrances,
+who said we were sent up by Musa, our fate would have been doubtful.
+Rumanika, it appeared, as I always had heard, considered old Musa his
+saviour, for having eight years before quelled a rebellion, when his
+younger brother, Rogero, aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and
+honesty were quite unimpeachable. But more of this hereafter.
+
+Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this swamp lake,
+and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly man called Muzegi,
+who was chief officer during Dagara's time. He told me with the greatest
+possible gravity, that he remembered well the time when a boat could
+have gone from this to Vigura; as also when fish and crocodiles came
+up from the Kitangule; but the old king no sooner died than the waters
+dried up; which showed as plainly as words could tell, that the king had
+designed it, to make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages.
+Our presents after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at my
+desire, explained the position of all the surrounding countries, in his
+own peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on the ground pointing
+due north and south, to which he attached shorter ones pointing to the
+centre of each distant country. He thus assisted me in the protractions
+of the map, to the countries which lie east and west of the route.
+
+Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last
+officer on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not allow
+us to pass by without paying his respects to the king's guests. He was a
+man of most affable manners, and loth we should part company without one
+night's entertainment at least; but as it was a matter of necessity, he
+gave us provisions to eat on the way, adding, at the same time, he was
+sorry he could not give more, as a famine was then oppressing the land.
+We parted with reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after,
+diving into the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the
+variety of game which met our view. On several occasions the rhinoceros
+were so numerous and impudent as to contest the right of the road with
+us, and the greatest sport was occasioned by our bold Wanguana going
+at them in parties of threes and fours, when, taking good care of
+themselves at considerable distances, they fired their carbines all
+together, and whilst the rhinoceros ran one way, they ran the other.
+Whilst we were pitching our tents after sunset by some pools on the
+plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with the hongo of brass and copper wires sent
+by Suwarora for the great king Mtesa, in lieu of his daughter who died;
+so next morning we all marched together on to Uthenga.
+
+Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of
+beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich valley
+of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more than a thousand
+feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains of Scotland; whilst
+in the valley there were not only magnificent trees of extraordinary
+height, but also a surprising amount of the richest cultivation, amongst
+which the banana may be said to prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent
+richness in the land, the Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts,
+seem poor. The tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing
+country of Uhaiya. After arrival in the village, who should we see
+but the Uganda officer, Irungu! The scoundrel, instead of going on to
+Uganda, as he had promised to do, conveying my present to Mtesa, had
+stopped here plundering the Wanyambo, and getting drunk on their pombe,
+called, in their language, marwa--a delicious kind of wine made from the
+banana. He, or course, begged for more beads; but, not able to trick me
+again, set his drummers and fifers at work, in hopes that he would get
+over our feelings in that way.
+
+Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us alive on
+the way. This we heard was a privilege that Uganda Wakungu enjoyed both
+at home and abroad, although in all other countries the sound of the
+drum is considered a notice of war, unless where it happens to accompany
+a dance or festival. Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over
+the spur of N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful
+altitude of 5000 odd feet. Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling
+so happy at the prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika.
+Tripping down the greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka
+valley, and pitched our tents in the village.
+
+Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare Rumanika
+for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we would prefer to
+live at--the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct line to Uganda, in his
+palace with himself, or outside his enclosures. Such politeness rather
+took us aback; so, giving our friend a coil of copper wire to keep him
+in good spirits, I said all our pleasure rested in seeing the king;
+whatever honours he liked to confer on us we should take with good
+grace, but one thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to
+see him and great kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with
+us. This little point settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual merry
+manner, whilst I took a look at the hills, to see their geological
+formation, and found them much as before, based on streaky clay
+sandstones, with the slight addition of pure blue shales, and above
+sections of quartzose sandstone lying in flags, as well as other
+metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about.
+
+Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the junction
+of two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers and amazon
+followers, took one way to Kufro, followed by the men carrying
+Suwarora's hongo, and we led off on the other, directed to the palace.
+The hill-tops in many places were breasted with dykes of pure white
+quartz, just as we had seen in Usui, only that here their direction
+tended more to the north. It was most curious to contemplate, seeing
+that the chief substance of the hills was a pure blue, or otherwise
+streaky clay sandstone, which must have been formed when the land was
+low, but has now been elevated, making these hills the axis of the
+centre of the continent, and therefore probably the oldest of all.
+
+When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and wait
+for Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain grove, where
+pombe was brewing, and our men were all taking a suck at it, than the
+worthy arrived to call us on the same instant, as the king was most
+anxious to see us. The love of good beer of course made our men all
+too tired to march again; so I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our
+excuses, and in the evening found them returning with a huge pot of
+pombe and some royal tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he
+intended it exclusively for our own use, for though there was abundance
+for my men, there was nothing so good as what came from the palace;
+the royal tobacco was as sweet and strong as honey-dew, and the beer so
+strong it required a strong man to drink it.
+
+After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called
+Waeranhanje, the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the sea.
+Descending a little, we came suddenly in view of what appeared to us
+a rich clump of trees, in S. lat. 1 deg. 42' 42", and E. long. 31 deg. 1' 49";
+and, 500 feet below it, we saw a beautiful sheet of water lying snugly
+within the folds of the hills. We were not altogether unprepared for it,
+as Musa of old had described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday,
+told us he had seen a great pond. The clump, indeed, was the palace
+enclosure. As to the lake, for want of a native name, I christened it
+the Little Winderemere, because Grant thought it so like our own English
+lake of that name. It was one of many others which, like that of Urigi,
+drains the moisture of the overhanging hills, and gets drained into the
+Victoria N'yanza through the Kitangule river.
+
+To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered my men
+to put down their loads and fire a volley. This was no sooner done than,
+as we went to the palace gate, we received an invitation to come in at
+once, for the king wished to see us before attending to anything else.
+Now, leaving our traps outside, both Grant and myself, attended by
+Bombay and a few of the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule,
+and, walking through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly
+dimensions, were escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the Arabs had
+built as a sort of government office where the king might conduct his
+state affairs.
+
+Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground Rumanika
+the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of noble appearance
+and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab's black choga,
+and wore, for ornament, dress-stockings of rich-coloured beads, and
+neatly-worked wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high
+pretensions, in addition to a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered
+with charms. At their sides lay huge pipes of black clay. In their rear,
+squatting quiet as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or seven
+lads, who wore leather middle-coverings, and little dream-charms tied
+under their chins. The first greetings of the king, delivered in good
+Kisuahili, were warm and affecting, and in an instant we both felt and
+saw we were in the company of men who were as unlike as they could be to
+the common order of the natives of the surrounding districts. They had
+fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood
+of Abyssinia. Having shaken hands in true English style, which is the
+peculiar custom of the men of this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika
+begged us to be seated on the ground opposite to him, and at once wished
+to know what we thought of Karague, for it had struck him his mountains
+were the finest in the world; and the lake, too, did we not admire it?
+Then laughing, he inquired--for he knew all the story--what we thought
+of Suwarora, and the reception we had met with in Usui. When this was
+explained to him, I showed him that it was for the interest of his
+own kingdom to keep a check on Suwarora, whose exorbitant taxations
+prevented the Arabs from coming to see him and bringing things from all
+parts of the world. He made inquiries for the purpose of knowing how we
+found our way all over the world; for on the former expedition a letter
+had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it than he said I had
+called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji.
+
+This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the
+proportions of land and water, and the power of ships, which conveyed
+even elephants and rhinoceros--in fact, all the animals in the world--to
+fill our menageries at home,--etc., etc.; as well as the strange
+announcement that we lived to the northward, and had only come this way
+because his friend Musa had assured me without doubt that he would give
+us the road on through Uganda. Time flew like magic, the king's mind was
+so quick and enquiring; but as the day was wasting away, he generously
+gave us our option to choose a place for our residence in or out of his
+palace, and allowed us time to select one. We found the view overlooking
+the lake to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and
+set our men at once to work cutting sticks and long grass to erect
+themselves sheds.
+
+One of the young princes--for the king ordered them all to be constantly
+in attendance on us--happening to see me sit on an iron chair, rushed
+back to his father and told him about it. This set all the royals in the
+palace in a state of high wonder, and ended by my getting a summons to
+show off the white man sitting on his throne; for of course I could only
+be, as all of them called me, a king of great dignity, to indulge in
+such state. Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed myself
+once more to be dragged into court. Rumanika, as gentle as ever, then
+burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry enlightened
+remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to with the greatest
+satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a very expressive shake
+of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these Wazungu! they know and do
+everything."
+
+I then put in a word for myself. Since we had entered Karague we never
+could get one drop of milk either for love or for money, and I wished
+to know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding it. We had heard they
+held superstitious dreads; that any one who ate the flesh of pigs, fish,
+or fowls, or the bean called Maharague, if he tasted the products of
+their cows, would destroy their cattle--and I hoped he did not labour
+under any such absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the
+poor who thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set
+apart one of his cows expressly for our use. On bidding adieu, the usual
+formalities of handshaking were gone through; and on entering camp, I
+found the good thoughtful king had sent us some more of his excellent
+beer.
+
+The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time after
+time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers of the
+king, who had received orders from all parts of the country to bring in
+supplies for his guests; and this kind of treatment went on for a month,
+though it did not diminish my daily expenditures of beads, as grain and
+plantains were not enough thought of. The cold winds, however, made
+the coast-men all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be
+drawing close to England, the only cold place they had heard of.
+
+16th.--Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present my
+tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only taking my
+revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a strong wish to
+see it. The impression it made was surprising--he had never seen such a
+thing in his life; so, in return for his great generosity, as well as to
+show I placed no value on property, not being a merchant, I begged
+him to accept it. We then adjourned to his private hut, which rather
+surprised me by the neatness with which it was kept. The roof was
+supported by numerous clean poles, to which he had fastened a large
+assortment of spears--brass-headed with iron handles, and iron-headed
+with wooden ones--of excellent workmanship. A large standing-screen, of
+fine straw-plait work, in elegant devices, partitioned off one part of
+the room; and on the opposite side, as mere ornaments, were placed a
+number of brass grapnels and small models of cows, made in iron for his
+amusement by the Arabs at Kufro. A little later in the day, as soon as
+we had done breakfast, both Rumanika and Nnanaji came over to pay us a
+visit; for they thought, as we could find our way all over the world, so
+we should not find much difficulty in prescribing some magic charms to
+kill his brother, Rogero, who lived on a hill overlooking the Kitangule.
+Seating them both on our chairs, which amused them intensely, I asked
+Rumanika, although I had heard before the whole facts of the case, what
+motives now induced him to wish the committal of such a terrible act,
+and brought out the whole story afresh.
+
+Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to the
+mother of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a fine king
+he would make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored her son to expect
+the command of the country, although the law of the land in the royal
+family is the primogeniture system, extending, however, only to those
+sons who are born after the accession of the king to the throne.
+
+As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons alluded to,
+all by different mothers, a contest took place with the brothers, which,
+as Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the two elder driving Rogero away.
+It happened, however, that half the men of the country, either from fear
+or love, attached themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised
+an army and attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally
+admitted would have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled
+magnanimity, employed all the ivory merchandise at his command to
+engage the services of all the Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro, to bring
+muskets against him. Rogero was thus frightened away; but he went away
+swearing that he would carry out his intentions at some future date,
+when the Arabs had withdrawn from the country.
+
+Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not believe it,
+and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not kill their brother
+even if they caught him--for fratricide was considered an unnatural
+crime in their country--but they would merely gouge out his eyes and set
+him at large again; for without the power of sight he could do them no
+harm.
+
+I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the time
+being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the system of
+taxation carried on in Usui. These would have the effect of bringing men
+with superior knowledge into the country--for it was only through the
+power of knowledge that good government could be obtained. Suwarora
+at present stopped eight-tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be
+inclined to trade here from coming into the country, by the foolish
+system of excessive taxation he had established. Next I told him, if he
+would give me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed
+in England; for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung
+from our old friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela Selassie,
+had received rich presents from our Queen. They were Christians like
+ourselves, and had the Wahuma not lost their knowledge of God they would
+be so also. A long theological and historical discussion ensued, which
+so pleased the king, that he said he would be delighted if I would take
+two of his sons to England, that they might bring him a knowledge of
+everything. Then turning again to the old point, his utter amazement
+that we should spend so much property in travelling, he wished to know
+what we did it for; when men had such means they would surely sit down
+and enjoy it. "Oh no," was the reply; "we have had our fill of the
+luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or sleeping have no charms for us
+now; we are above trade, therefore require no profits, and seek for
+enjoyment the run of the world. To observe and admire the beauties of
+creation are worth much more than beads to us. But what led us this way
+we have told you before; it was to see your majesty in particular, and
+the great kings of Africa--and at the same time to open another road to
+the north, whereby the best manufactures or Europe would find their
+way to Karague, and you would get so many more guests." In the highest
+good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and see sights, I
+will order some boats and show you over the lake, with musicians to play
+before you, or anything else that you like." Then, after looking over
+our pictures with intensest delight, and admiring our beds, boxes, and
+outfit in general, he left for the day.
+
+In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the king
+and princes were fattened to such an extent that they could not stand
+upright, I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's eldest brother--who,
+having been born before his father ascended the throne, did not come in
+the line of succession--with the hope of being able to see for myself
+the truth of the story. There was no mistake about it. On entering the
+hut I found the old man and his chief wife sitting side by side on a
+bench of earth strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for
+sleeping apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous
+wooden pots of milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the
+beehive-shaped hut, a large collection of bows six feet in length,
+whilst below them were tied an even larger collection of spears,
+intermixed with a goodly assortment of heavy-headed assages. I was
+struck with no small surprise at the way he received me, as well as with
+the extraordinary dimensions, yet pleasing beauty, of the immoderately
+fat fair one his wife. She could not rise; and so large were her arms
+that, between the joints, the flesh hung down like large, loose-stuffed
+puddings. Then in came their children, all models of the Abyssinian type
+of beauty, and as polite in their manners as thorough-bred gentlemen.
+They had heard of my picture-books from the king, and all wished to see
+them; which they no sooner did, to their infinite delight, especially
+when they recognised any of the animals, then the subject was turned
+by my inquiring what they did with so many milk-pots. This was easily
+explained by Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife, said, "This
+is all the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we keep those
+pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have very fat
+wives."
+
+27th.--Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every day's
+delay only tended to diminish my means--that is, my beads and copper
+wire--I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned articles to
+Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my country; [11] to say
+I felt quite ashamed of their being so few and so poor, but I hoped he
+would forgive my shortcomings, as he knew I had been so often robbed on
+the way to him; and I trusted, in recollection of Musa, he would give
+me leave to go on to Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my
+supplies. Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so,
+in addition to the king's present, I apportioned one out for him, and
+Bombay took both up to the palace. [12] Everybody, I was pleased to
+hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality of what I had
+been able to find for them; for, after the plundering in Ugogo, the
+immense consumption caused by such long delays on the road, the fearful
+prices I had had to pay for my porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had
+been forced to give both in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the
+constant thievings in camp, all of which was made public by the
+constantly-recurring tales of my men, nobody thought I had got anything
+left.
+
+Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a
+fortune, and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the scarlet
+broadcloth the finest thing he had ever seen. Nobody but Musa had ever
+given him such beautiful beads before, and none ever gave with such free
+liberality. Whatever I wanted I should have in return for it, as it was
+evident to him I had really done him a great honour in visiting him.
+Neither his father nor any of his forefathers had had such a great
+favour shown them. He was alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were
+coming to visit him, thinking we might prove some fearful monsters that
+were not quite human, but now he was delighted beyond all measure with
+what he saw of us. A messenger should be sent at once to the king
+of Uganda to inform him of our intention to visit him, with his own
+favourable report of us. This was necessary according to the etiquette
+of the country. Without such a recommendation our progress would be
+stopped by the people, whilst with one word from him all would go
+straight; for was he not the gatekeeper, enjoying the full confidence of
+Uganda? A month, however, must elapse, as the distance to the palace
+of Uganda was great; but, in the meantime, he would give me leave to go
+about in his country to do and see what I liked, Nnanaji and his sons
+escorting me everywhere. Moreover, when the time came for my going on to
+Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the king, he would fill up
+the complement from his own stores, and either go with me himself, or
+send Nnanaji to conduct me as far as the boundary of Uganda, in order
+that Rogero might not molest us on the way. In the evening, Masudi,
+with Sangoro and several other merchants, came up from Kufro to pay us a
+visit of respect.
+
+28th and 29th.--A gentle hint having come to us that the king's brother,
+Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I sent him a blanket
+and seventy-five blue egg-beads. These were accepted with the usual good
+grace of these people. The king then, ever attentive to our position as
+guests, sent his royal musicians to give us a tune. The men composing
+the band were a mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on reed
+instruments made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums. At first
+they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the regimental
+bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a species of "hornpipe,"
+blowing furiously all the while. When dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji
+dropped in and invited me to accompany him out shooting on the slopes
+of the hills overlooking the lake. He had in attendance all the king's
+sons, as well as a large number of beaters, with three or four dogs.
+Tripping down the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic
+princes every now and then stopped to see who could shoot furthest,
+and I must say I never witnessed better feats in my life. With powerful
+six-feet-long bows they pulled their arrows' heads up to the wood, and
+made wonderful shots in the distance. They then placed me in position,
+and arranging the field, drove the covers like men well accustomed to
+sport--indeed, it struck me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for
+we saw nothing but two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes,
+about the size of mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was
+bagged.
+
+Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with the
+red glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing in the
+distance some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the country Ruanda,
+which at once brought back to recollection the ill-defined story I had
+heard from the Arabs of a wonderful hill always covered with clouds,
+on which snow or hail was constantly falling. This was a valuable
+discovery, for I found these hills to be the great turn-point of the
+Central African watershed. Without loss of time I set to work, and,
+gathering all the travellers I could in the country, protracted, from
+their descriptions, all the distance topographical features set down in
+the map, as far north as 3 deg. of north latitude, as far east as 36 deg.,
+and as far west as 26 deg. of east longitude; only afterwards slightly
+corrected, as I was better able to connect and clear up some trifling
+but doubtful points.
+
+Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information about
+distant places I was enabled to get here from these men, but also at the
+correctness of their vast and varied knowledge, as I afterwards tested
+it by observation and the statements of others. I rely so far on the
+geographical information I thus received, that I would advise no one to
+doubt the accuracy of these protractions until he has been on the spot
+to test them by actual inspection. About the size only of the minor
+lakes do I feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which
+on the former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was found
+on its shores and in one of its islands. Now, without going into any
+lengthy details, and giving Rumanika due credit for everything--for had
+he not ordered his men to give me every information that lay in their
+power, they would not have done so--I will merely say for the present
+that, whilst they conceived the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole
+month for a canoe to cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might
+be crossed in a week. The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe
+reach 10,000 feet, are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the
+Moon." At their base are both salt and copper mines, as well as hot
+springs. There are also hot springs in Mpororo, and one in Karague near
+where Rogero lived.
+
+30th.--The important business of announcing our approach to Uganda was
+completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to king Mtesa as quickly
+as possible, to say we were coming to visit him. He was told that we
+were very great men, who only travelled to see great kings and great
+countries; and, as such, Rumanika trusted we should be received with
+courteous respect, and allowed to roam all over the country wherever
+we liked, he holding himself responsible for our actions for the
+time being. In the end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he
+considered himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident
+befell us.
+
+To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to send
+some trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on taking out a
+Colt's revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika advised me not to send
+it, as Mtesa might take fright, and, considering it a charm of evil
+quality, reject us as bad magicians, and close his gates on us. Three
+bits of cotton cloth were then selected as the best thing for the
+purpose; and, relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared
+his only object was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and
+off went Kachuchu.
+
+To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the English can
+appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer, a sailor's knife,
+a Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt letter-slip with paper and
+envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory holder, and a variety of other small
+articles. Of each of these he asked the use, and then in high glee put
+it into the big block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities,
+and which I think he felt more proud of than any other possession. After
+this, on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had floored my
+march in Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui, came in to report
+that the Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and taken six bomas, upon
+which Rumanika asked me what I thought of it, and if I knew where the
+Watuta came from. I said I was not surprised to hear Usui had attracted
+the Watuta's cupidity, for every one knew of the plundering propensities
+of the inhabitants, and as they became rich by their robberies, they
+must in turn expect to be robbed. Where the Watuta came from, nobody
+could tell; they were dressed something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the
+South, but appeared to be now gradually migrating from the regions of
+N'yazza. To this Dr K'yengo, who was now living with Rumanika as his
+head magician, added that, whilst he was living in Utambara, the Watuta
+invested his boma six months; and finally, when all their cows and
+stores were exhausted, they killed all the inhabitants but himself, and
+he only escaped by the power of the charms which he carried about him.
+These were so powerful, that although he lay on the ground, and the
+Watuta struck at him with their spears, not one could penetrate his
+body.
+
+In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my scientific
+instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did not beg for
+anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl shirt studs to swell
+up his trinket-box. The same evening I made up my mind, if possible, to
+purchase a stock of beads from the Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro,
+to see what kind of a bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I
+trembled to think what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to
+demand when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be
+bought, or the expedition would certainly come to grief.
+
+1st and 2d.--Two days after this the merchants came in a body to see
+me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per frasala,
+as they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at the coast.
+Of course no business was done, for the thing was preposterous by all
+calculation, being close on 2500 per cent. above Zanzibar valuation.
+I was "game" to give 50 dollars, but as they would not take this, I
+thought of dealing with Rumanika instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had
+been constantly throwing out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he
+was a great sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet,
+and he in return sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in
+addition to the daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my people
+drunk, and so affected Baraka that one of the women--also drunk--having
+given him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so violent a manner that
+the whole drunken camp set upon him, and turned the place into a
+pandemonium. A row amongst the negroes means a general rising of arms,
+legs, and voices; all are in a state of the greatest excitement; and
+each individual thinks he is doing the best to mend matters, but is
+actually doing his best to create confusion.
+
+By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka separated from
+the crowd and dragged before me for justice. I found that the woman,
+who fully understood the jealous hatred which existed in Baraka's heart
+against Bombay, flirted with both of them; and, pretending to show a
+preference for Bombay, set Baraka against her, when from high words
+they came to blows, and set the place in a blaze. It was useless to
+remonstrate--Baraka insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him,
+no matter whether I thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me
+expecting to be bullied in this way--the whole fault lay with Bombay--I
+did not do him justice--when he proved Bombay a thief at Usui, I did
+not turn him off, but now, instead, I showed the preference to Bombay by
+always taking him when I went to Rumanika. It was useless to argue with
+such a passionate man, so I told him to go away and cool himself before
+morning.
+
+When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp,
+besides his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt--for they had constant
+arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay always said he
+would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those who held by him abused
+him and his set for having tricked them away from Zanzibar, under the
+false hopes that the road was quite safe. Bombay said his arguments
+were, that Bana knew better than anybody else what he was about, and
+he would follow him, trusting to luck, as God was the disposer of all
+things, and men could die but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested
+the other way;--that no one could tell what was ahead of him--Bana had
+sold himself to luck and the devil--but though he did not care for his
+own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others--Bombay and
+his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him.
+
+3d.--At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-Namarinzi, a
+spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere," overlooking the Ingezi
+Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka from Karague, to show me how
+the Kiangule river was fed by small lakes and marshes, in accordance
+with my expressed wish to have a better comprehension of the drainage
+system of the Mountains of the Moon. He hoped we would follow him,
+not by the land route he intended to take, but in canoes which he had
+ordered at the ferry below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for
+the lake, and found the canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two
+paddlers, only two men could sit down in each. After pushing through the
+tall reeds with which the end of the lake is covered, we emerged in
+the clear open, and skirted the further side of the water until a
+small strait was gained, which led us into another lake, drained at
+the northern end with a vast swampy plain, covered entirely with tall
+rushes, excepting only in a few places where bald patches expose the
+surface of the water, or where the main streams of the Ingezi and
+Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain for themselves.
+
+The whole scenery was most beautiful. Green and fresh, the slopes of the
+hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of soft cloudy-looking
+acacias growing at a few feet only above the water, and above them,
+facing over the hills, fine detached trees, and here and there the
+gigantic medicinal aloe. Arrived near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi
+hill in the second lake, the paddlers splashed into shore, where a large
+concourse of people, headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me. I
+landed with all the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up
+a march, and we all moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking away
+in a very complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite and flowery
+fashion of educated Orientals.
+
+Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe
+antelope's skin, smiling blandly as we approached him. In the warmest
+manner possible he pressed me to sit by his side, asked how I had
+enjoyed myself, what I thought of his country, and if I did not feel
+hungry; when a pic-nic dinner was spread, and we all set to at cooked
+plantains and pombe, ending with a pipe of his best tobacco. Bit by
+bit Rumanika became more interested in geography, and seemed highly
+ambitious of gaining a world-wide reputation through the medium of my
+pen. At his invitation we now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi
+Kagera side, when, to surprise me, the canoes I had come up the lake in
+appeared before us. They had gone out of the lake at its northern end,
+paddled into, and then up the Kagera to where we stood, showing, by
+actual navigation, the connection of these highland lakes with the
+rivers which drain the various spurs of the Mountains of the Moon. The
+Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine stream, and, considering
+it was only one--and that, too, a minor one--of the various affluents
+which drain the mountain valleys into the Victoria N'yanza through
+the medium of the Kitangule river, I saw at once there must be water
+sufficient to make the Kitangule a very powerful tributary to the lake.
+
+On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread information of
+all the surrounding countries I had gained, my mind was so impressed
+with the topographical features of all this part of Africa, that in my
+heart I resolved I would make Rumanika as happy as he had made me, and
+asked K'yengo his doctor, of all things I possessed what the king would
+like best. To my surprise I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart
+on the revolving rifle I had brought for Mtesa--the one, in fact, which
+he had prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and
+he would have begged me for it before had his high-minded dignity, and
+the principle he had established of never begging for anything, not
+interfered. I then said he should certainly have it; for as strongly
+as I had withheld from giving anything to those begging scoundrels who
+wished to rob me of all I possessed in the lower countries, so strongly
+now did I feel inclined to be generous with this exceptional man
+Rumanika. We then had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home
+to join Grant, Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a
+bullock at the tomb of his father Dagara.
+
+Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the hill,
+and, on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot ducks; but the
+superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended amusement by imploring
+me not to do so, lest the spirit of the lake should be roused to dry up
+the waters.
+
+4th.--Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill, followed
+by a long train of his officers, and a party of men carrying on their
+shoulders his state carriage, which consisted of a large open basket
+laid on the top of two very long poles. After entering his palace, I
+immediately called on him to thank him for the great treat he had given
+me, and presented him, as an earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's
+revolving rifle and a fair allowance of ammunition. His delight knew no
+bounds on becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and
+induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero, whose
+antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind. He urged me again
+to devise some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more and more
+confidential, favoured me with the following narrative, by way of
+evidence how the spirits were inclined to show all the world that he
+was the rightful successor to the throne:--When Dagara died, and he,
+Nnanaji, and Rogero, were the only three sons left in line of succession
+to the crown, a small mystic drum of diminutive size was placed before
+them by the officers of state. It was only feather weight in reality,
+but, being loaded with charms, became so heavy to those who were not
+entitled to the crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom
+the spirits were inclined towards as the rightful successor. Now, of all
+the three brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from the ground;
+and whilst his brothers laboured hard, in vain attempting to move it, he
+with his little finger held it up without any exertion.
+
+This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to further
+particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it transpired that the
+old king's body, after the fashion of his predecessors, was sewn up in
+a cow-skin, and placed in a boat floating on the lake, where it remained
+for three days, until decomposition set in and maggots were engendered,
+of which three were taken into the palace and given in charge to
+the heir-elect; but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was
+transformed into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a
+stick. After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on
+the hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground, the
+people erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens and fifty
+cows, enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the whole of them
+subsequently died from starvation.
+
+This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical
+disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that his
+grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was blessed with
+more supernatural agencies than any other country. Rohinda the Sixth,
+who was his grandfather, numbered so many years that people thought
+he would never die; and he even became so concerned himself about it,
+reflecting that his son Dagara would never enjoy the benefit of his
+position as successor to the crown of Karague, that he took some magic
+powders and charmed away his life. His remains were then taken to
+Moga-Namirinzi, in the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an
+improvement on the maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of
+the corpse and kept guard over the hill, from whom other lions came into
+existence, until the whole place has become infested by them, and has
+since made Karague a power and dread to all other nations; for these
+lions became subject to the will of Dagara, who, when attacked by
+the countries to the northward, instead of assembling an army of men,
+assembled his lion force, and so swept all before him.
+
+Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who
+thought Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the throne;
+and this was, that each heir in succession, even after the drum dodge,
+was required to sit on the ground in a certain place of the country,
+where, if he had courage to plant himself, the land would gradually rise
+up, telescope fashion, until it reached the skies, when, if the aspirant
+was considered by the spirits the proper person to inherit Karague,
+he would gradually be lowered again without any harm happening; but,
+otherwise, the elastic hill would suddenly collapse, and he would be
+dashed to pieces. Now, Rumanika, by his own confession, had gone
+through this ordeal with marked success; so I asked him if he found the
+atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and as he said he did so, laughing
+at the quaintness of the question, I told him I saw he had learnt a good
+practical lesson on the structure of the universe, which I wished he
+would explain to me. In a state of perplexity, K'yengo and the rest, on
+seeing me laughing, thought something was wrong; so, turning about, they
+thought again, and said, "No, it must have been hot, because the higher
+one ascended the nearer he got to the sun."
+
+This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography, and
+all the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an iron much
+the shape and size of a carrot. This he said was found by one of his
+villagers whilst tilling the ground, buried some way down below the
+surface; but dig as he would, he could not remove it, and therefore
+called some men to his help. Still the whole of them united could not
+lift the iron, which induced them, considering there must be some magic
+in it, to inform the king. "Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there
+and saw the iron, and brought it here as you see it. What can such
+a sign mean?" "Of course that you are the rightful king," said his
+flatterers. "Then," said Rumanika, in exuberant spirits, "during
+Dagara's time, as the king was sitting with many other men outside his
+hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning arose, and a thunderbolt
+struck the ground in the midst of them, which dispersed all the men but
+Dagara, who calmly took up the thunderbolt and places it in the palace.
+I, however, no sooner came into possession, and Rogero began to contend
+with me, than the thunderbolt vanished. How would you account for
+this?" The flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible; God gave the
+thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and his rule;
+but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it to show their
+conduct was wicked."
+
+5th.--Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-boc) [13]
+which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at the head of the
+lake, by the king's order, to please me; for I had heard this peculiar
+animal described in such strange ways at Kaze, both by Musa and the
+Arabs, I was desirous of having a look at one. It proved to be closely
+allied to a water-boc found by Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but,
+instead of being striped, was very faintly spotted, and so long were its
+toes, it could hardly walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also
+well adapted to the moist element it lived in, was long, and of such
+excellent quality that the natives prize it for wearing almost more than
+any other of the antelope tribe. The only food it would eat were the
+tops of the tall papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank freely, and
+lay down very quietly, it always charged with ferocity any person who
+went near it.
+
+In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to witness his
+New Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every month with a view of
+ascertaining how many of his subjects are loyal. On entering his palace
+enclosure, the first thing we saw was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full
+of magic powder, with very imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in
+the ground, with its mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero. In the
+second court, we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with
+as many drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and
+officers of high dignity waiting to escort us into the third enclosure,
+where, in his principal hut, we found Rumanika squatting on the ground,
+half-concealed by the portal, but showing his smiling face to welcome us
+in. His head was got up with a tiara of beads, from the centre of
+which, directly over the forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and
+encircling the lower face with a fine large white beard set in a stock
+or band of beads. We were beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the
+master of ceremonies, and a large group of high officials outside the
+porch. Then the thirty-five drums all struck up together in very good
+harmony; and when their deafening noise was over, a smaller band of
+hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in to amuse us.
+
+This second performance over, from want of breath only, district
+officers, one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing,
+contorting and quivering their bodies, advancing again with a springing
+gait and outspread arms, which they moved as if they wished to force
+them out of their joints, in all of which actions they held drum-sticks
+or twigs in their hands, swore with a maniacal voice an oath of their
+loyalty and devotion to their king, backed by the expression of a hope
+that he would cut off their heads if they ever turned from his enemies,
+and then, kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might
+touch them. With a constant reiteration of these scenes--the saluting
+at one time, the music at another--interrupted only once by a number
+of girls dancing something like a good rough Highland fling whilst the
+little band played, the day's ceremonies ended.
+
+6th and 7th.--During the next two days, as my men had all worn out their
+clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to purchase a suit
+of the bark cloth called mbugu, already described. Finding the flour
+of the country too bitter to eat by itself, we sweetened it with
+ripe plantains, and made a good cake of it. The king now, finding me
+disinclined to fight his brother Rogero, either with guns or magic
+horns, asked me to give him a "doctor" or charm to create longevity and
+to promote the increase of his family, as his was not large enough to
+maintain the dignity of so great a man as himself. I gave him a blister,
+and, changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of man.
+After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in creation I
+considered the greatest of all things in the world; for whilst a man at
+most could only live one hundred years, a tree lived many; but the earth
+ought to be biggest, for it never died.
+
+I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me to
+England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he would find
+that men had souls which live for ever, but that the earth would come
+to an end in the fullness of time. This conversation, diversified by
+numerous shrewd remarks on the part of Rumanika, led to his asking how I
+could account for the decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment
+of the Wahuma in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included
+Urundi, Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the
+kingdom of Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I said,
+made us what we are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me desirous of
+taking one of his children to learn in the same school with us, who, on
+returning to him, could impart what he knew, and, extending the same by
+course of instruction, would doubtless end by elevating his country to
+a higher position than it ever knew before,--etc., etc. The policy
+and government of the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly
+discussed, and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that
+of the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most
+wonderful powers he had ever heard of.
+
+Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of ivories
+I might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a lasting
+remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting Karague in his
+lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured merchants, he would be
+the first who had given to a white man. Of course this royal offer was
+declined with politeness; he must understand that it was not the custom
+of big men in my country to accept presents of value when we made visits
+of pleasure. I had enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual
+conversations and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record
+in my books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's
+horn, I would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent in his
+country. He gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in length, and 18 3/4
+inches in circumference at the base. He then offered me a large sheet,
+made up of a patchwork of very small N'yera antelope skins, most
+exquisitely cured and sewn. This I rejected, as he told me it had been
+given to himself, explaining that we prided ourselves on never parting
+with the gifts of a friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much,
+that he said he never would part with anything I gave him.
+
+8th and 9th.--The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my calling on
+the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards, which he put into his
+curiosity-box. He explained to me, at my request, what sort of things he
+would like any future visitors to bring him--a piece of gold and silver
+embroidery; but, before anything else, I found he would like to have
+toys--such as Yankee clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to wind up
+behind, his eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a china-cow
+milk-pot, a jack-in-the-box, models of men, carriages, and horses--all
+animals in fact, and railways in particular.
+
+On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual politeness,
+on hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered his sons to
+conduct the filed for me. Off we started by sunrise to the bottom of the
+hills overlooking the head of the Little Windermere lake. On arrival
+at the scene of action--a thicket or acacia shrubs--all the men in the
+neighbourhood were assembled to beat. Taking post myself, by direction,
+in the most likely place to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work
+began by the beaters driving the covers in my direction. In a very short
+time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not exactly
+knowing where he should bolt to. While he was in this perplexity, I
+stole along between the bushes, and caught sight of him standing as if
+anchored by the side of a tree and gave him a broadsider with Blissett,
+which, too much for his constitution to stand, sent him off trotting,
+till exhausted by bleeding he lay down to die, and allowed me to give
+him a settler.
+
+In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted by
+the sound of the gun, came to see what was done. Their surprise knew
+no bounds; they could scarcely believe what they saw; and then, on
+recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen, they seized both my
+hands, congratulating me on the magnitude of my success, and pointed
+out, as an example of it, a bystander who showed fearful scars, both on
+his abdomen and at the blade of his shoulder, who they declared had been
+run through by one of these animals. It was, therefore, wonderful to
+them, they observed, with what calmness I went up to such formidable
+beasts.
+
+Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros was
+concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. Arriving at the
+place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter with only two spare men
+carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were so thick that the only tracks
+into the thicket were runs made by these animals. Leading myself,
+bending down to steal in, I tracked up a run till half-way through
+cover, when suddenly before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female,
+with her young one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon
+me. In this awkward fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all
+over with thorns in doing so, and gave her one on the head which knocked
+her out of my path, and induced her for safety to make for the open,
+where I followed her down and gave her another. She then took to the
+hills and crossed over a spur, when, following after her, in another
+dense thicket, near the head of a glen, I came upon three, who no sooner
+sighted me, than all in line they charged down my way. Fortunately at
+the time my gun-bearers were with me; so, jumping to one side, I struck
+them all three in turn. One of them dropped dead a little way on; but
+the others only pulled up when they arrived at the bottom. To please
+myself now I had done quite enough; but as the princes would have it, I
+went on with the chase. As one of the two, I could see, had one of his
+fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one, and gave him another shot,
+which simply induced him to walk over the lower end of the hill. Then
+turning to the last one, which could not escape, I asked the Wanyambo to
+polish him off with their spears and arrows, that I might see their
+mode of sport. As we moved up to the animal, he kept charging with such
+impetuous fury, they could not go into him; so I gave him a second ball,
+which brought him to anchor. In this helpless state the men set at him
+in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did witness. Every man
+sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his sides, until, completely
+exhausted, he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. The day's sport
+was now ended, so I went home to breakfast, leaving instructions that
+the heads should be cut off and sent to the king as a trophy of what the
+white man could do.
+
+10th and 11th.--The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the spoils were
+brought into court, and in utter astonishment he said, "Well, this must
+have been done with something more potent than powder, for neither the
+Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they talk of their shooting powers, could
+have accomplished such a great feat as this. It is no wonder the English
+are the greatest men in the world."
+
+Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so I was
+not sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs at Kufro,
+on hearing of the sport, come over and carry away all the flesh. They
+passed by our camp half borne down with their burdens of sliced flesh,
+suspended from poles which they carried on their shoulders; but
+the following day I was disgusted by hearing that their masters had
+forbidden their eating "the carrion," as the throats of the animals
+had not been cut; and, moreover, had thrashed them soundly because they
+complained they were half starved, which was perfectly true, by the poor
+food that they got as their pay.
+
+12th.--On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my geographical
+lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old stories, that in
+Ruanda there existed pigmies who lived in trees, but occasionally came
+down at night, and, listening at the hut doors of the men, would wait
+until they heard the name of one of its inmates, when they would call
+him out, and, firing an arrow into his heart, disappear again in the
+same way as they came. But, more formidable even than these little men,
+there were monsters who could not converse with me, and never
+showed themselves unless they saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous
+excitement, they squeezed them to death. Many other similar stories were
+then told, when I, wishing to go, was asked if I could kill hippopotami.
+Having answered that I could, the king graciously said he would order
+some canoes for me the next morning; and as I declined because Grant
+could not accompany me, as a terrible disease had broken out in his leg,
+he ordered a pig-shooting party. Agreeably with this, the next day I
+went out with his sons, numerously attended; but although we beat the
+covers all day, the rain was so frequent that the pigs would not bolt.
+
+14th.--After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the
+morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an elder
+brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. She was another
+of those wonders of obesity, unable to stand excepting on all fours. I
+was desirous to obtain a good view of her, and actually to measure
+her, and induced her to give me facilities for doing so, by offering in
+return to show her a bit of my naked legs and arms. The bait took as I
+wished it, and after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle
+of the hut, I did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted
+below. [14] All of these are exact except the height, and I believe I
+could have obtained this more accurately if I could have her laid on the
+floor. Not knowing what difficulties I should have to contend with in
+such a piece of engineering, I tried to get her height by raising
+her up. This, after infinite exertions on the part of us both, was
+accomplished, when she sank down again, fainting, for her blood had
+rushed to her head. Meanwhile, the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat
+stark-naked before us, sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept
+her at work by holding a rod in his hand, for as fattening is the first
+duty of fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced by the rod if
+necessary. I got up a bit of flirtation with missy, and induced her to
+rise and shake hands with me. Her features were lovely, but her body was
+as round as a ball.
+
+In the evening we had another row with my head men--Baraka having
+accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic. Bombay, who was so
+incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form party cliques
+opposed to the interests of the journey, and get him turned out of the
+camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's men, and asked him if he
+knew of any medicine that would affect the hearts of the Wanguana so as
+to incline them towards him; and on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay
+gave him some beads, and bought the medicine required, which, put into
+a pot of pombe, was placed by Baraka's side. Baraka in the meanwhile got
+wind of the matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts
+of the case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life. A court
+of inquiry having been convened, with all the parties concerned in
+attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and Bombay was lectured
+for his folly, as he had a thousand times before abjured his belief in
+such magical follies; moreover, to punish him for the future, I took
+Baraka, whenever I could, with me to visit the king, which, little as
+it may appear to others, was of the greatest consequence to the hostile
+parties.
+
+15th and 16th.--When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a Vautier's
+binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely remarked he was
+afraid he was robbing me of everything. More compliments went round, and
+then he asked if it was true we could open a man's skull, look at his
+brains, and close it up again; also if it was true we sailed all round
+the world into regions where there was no difference between night and
+day, and how, when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as
+would carry at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what
+they ought to do; for, although he had heard of these things, no one was
+able to explain them to him.
+
+After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt after
+the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as difficulties were
+raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate the arrival of Kachuchu,
+and march on to Kitangule. He answered, with his usual courtesy, That he
+would be very glad to oblige us in any way that we liked; but he feared
+that, as the Waganda were such superstitious people, some difficulties
+would arise, and he must decline to comply with our request. "You
+must not," he added, "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like
+myself." I then gave him a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he
+would keep for my sake, with all the rest of the presents, which he
+was determined never to give away, though it was usual for him to send
+novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king of Uganda, and Kamrasi, king of
+Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their superior positions in the
+world of great monarchies.
+
+17th.--Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from the
+island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige. Both her upper and
+lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip perforated by
+a number of small holes, extending in an arch from one corner to the
+other. This interesting but ugly old lady narrated the circumstances by
+which she had been enslaved, and then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to
+Rumanika, who had ever since kept her as a servant in his palace. A man
+from Ruanda then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained
+all food but human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. Though
+I felt very sceptical about it, I could not help thinking it a curious
+coincidence that the position they were said to occupy agreed with
+Petherick's Nyam Nyams (men-eaters).
+
+Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I had with
+another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it threw some light
+upon certain statements made by Mr Leon of the people of Amara being
+Christians. He said they bore single holes in the centres both of their
+upper and lower lips, as well as in the lobes of both of their ears, in
+which they wear small brass rings. They live near the N'yanza--where it
+is connected by a strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to the
+northward--in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of Unyamuezi.
+When killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer, with both
+hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the meaning of
+which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the word had any trace
+of a Christian meaning--for instance, a corruption of Jesu--but without
+success. Circumcision is not known amongst them, neither have they any
+knowledge of God or a soul. A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and
+described as not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids
+on their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon of
+war. These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led the Wamara
+in pursuit a long way into their enemy's country, where, at a place
+called Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red cloths. Beads were
+imported, he thought, both from the east and from Ukidi. Associated with
+the countries Masau or Masai, and Usamburu, which he knew, there was a
+large mountain, the exact position of which he could not describe.
+
+I took down many words of his language, and found they corresponded with
+the North African dialects, as spoken by the people of Kidi, Gani,
+and Madi. The southerners, speaking of these, would call them Wakidi,
+Wagani, and Wamadi, but among themselves the syllable was is not
+prefixed, as in the southern dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who
+appeared immensely delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions
+I wanted, and saw me note them down in my book, was more confirmed than
+ever in the truth of my stories that I came from the north, and thought
+as the beads came to Amara, so should I be able to open the road and
+bring him more visitors. This he knew was his only chance of ever seeing
+me more, for I swore I would never go back through Usui, so greatly did
+I feel the indignities imposed on me by Suwarora.
+
+18th.--To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife, spoon,
+and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses were explained,
+were consigned to his curiosity-box. Still Rumanika could not understand
+how it was I spent so much and travelled so far, or how it happened such
+a great country as ours could be ruled by a woman. He asked the Queen's
+name, how many children she had, and the mode of succession; then, when
+fully satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara had done
+when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was composed. At
+the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut, several yards long, the end
+of which was carried by a subterranean passage into the palace, where it
+was ended off with a cavern led into by a very small aperture. It then
+appeared that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion, to arrive any
+nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a bad job,
+and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was confidently
+asserted he spent many days without eating or drinking, and turned
+sometimes into a young man, and then an old one, alternately, as the
+humour seized him.
+
+19th to 22d.--On the 19th I went fishing, but without success, for they
+said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the following day, as
+Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long time at least, I went with
+all the young princes to see what I could do with the hippopotami in
+the lake, said to inhabit the small island of Conty. The part was an
+exceedingly merry one. We went off to the island in several canoes, and
+at once found an immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but
+not a single hippopotamus was in sight. The princes then, thinking me
+"green" at this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need
+not fear, for they would bring them out to my feet by simply calling out
+certain names, and this was no sooner done than four old and one young
+one came immediately in font of us. It seemed quite a sin to touch them,
+they looked all so innocent; but as the king wanted to try me again,
+I gave one a ball on the head which sent him under, never again to be
+seen, for on the 22nd, by which time I supposed he ought to have risen
+inflated with gases, the king sent out his men to look out for him; but
+they returned to say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place,
+that one, in particular, could not be found.
+
+On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview lasted,
+explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with me for intruding
+on their preserves, without having the courtesy to commemorate the event
+by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. Rumanika then, at my suggestions,
+gave Nnanaji the revolving pistol I first gave him, but not without
+a sharp rebuke for his having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in
+consideration of his being a sportsman. We then went into a discourse on
+astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun we
+saw one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every day, and
+whether or not the moon made different faces, to laugh at us mortals on
+earth.
+
+23d and 24th.--This day was spent by the king introducing me to his five
+fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all the different
+kings of the countries surrounding. From Mpororo--which, by the by, is
+a republic--he was wedded to Kaogez, the daughter of Kahaya, who is
+the greatest chief in the country; from Unyoro he received Kauyangi,
+Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole, Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter;
+from Utumbi, Kirangu, the late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the
+daughter of Chiuarungi, his head cook.
+
+After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band--which, as usual,
+amused him immensely--for the honour he had done me in showing me his
+wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some ivory from Kidi, came
+to pay their respects to him. On being questioned by me, they said that
+they once saw some men like my Wanguana there; they had come from the
+north to trade, but, though they carried firearms, they were all killed
+by the people of Kidi. This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but
+could not convince others of,--that traders could find their way up to
+Kidi by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that Kamrasi,
+some years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a variety the
+Zanzibar merchants had never thought of bringing into the country.
+Bombay was now quite convinced, and we all became transported with joy,
+until Rumanika, reflecting on the sad state of Grant's leg, turned that
+joy into grief by saying that the rules of Uganda are so strict, that no
+one who is sick could enter the country. "To show," he said, "how absurd
+they are, your donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers;
+and you even will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables will be
+considered indecorous." I now asked Rumanika if he would assist me in
+replenishing my fast-ebbing store of beads, by selling tusks to the
+Arabs at Kufro, when for every 35lb. weight I would give him 50 dollars
+by orders on Zanzibar, and would insure him from being cheated, by
+sending a letter of advice to our Consul residing there. At first
+he demurred, on the high-toned principle that he could not have any
+commercial dealings with myself; but, at the instigation of Bombay and
+Baraka, who viewed it in its true character, as tending merely to
+assist my journey in the best manner he could, without any sacrifice to
+dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to prove his earnestness, sent me a
+large tusk, with a notice that his ivory was not kept in the palace,
+but with his officers, and as soon as they could collect it, so soon I
+should get it.
+
+Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the birth of
+our Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I immediately paid
+him a visit to offer the compliments of the season, and at the same time
+regretted, much to his amusement, that he, as one of the old stock
+of Abyssinians, who are the oldest Christians on record, should have
+forgotten this rite; but I hoped the time would come when, by making
+it known that his tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white
+teachers would be induced to set it all to rights again. At this time
+some Wahaiya traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika)
+arrived. Like the Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they not only
+confirmed what the Waziwa had said, but added that, when trading in
+those distant parts, they heard of Wanguana coming in vessels to trade
+to the north of Unyoro; but the natives there were so savage, they only
+fought with these foreign traders. A man of Ruanda now informed us that
+the cowrie-shells, so plentiful in that country, come there from the
+other or western side, but he could not tell whence they were originally
+obtained. Rumanika then told me Suwarora had been so frightened by
+the Watuta, and their boastful threats to demolish Usui bit by bit,
+reserving him only as a tit-bit for the end, that he wanted a plot of
+ground in Karague to preserve his property in.
+
+26th, 27th, and 28th.--Some other travellers from the north again
+informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to trade in
+Gani and Chopi, but were killed by the natives. I now assured Rumanika
+that in two or three years he would have a greater trade with Egypt than
+he ever could have with Zanzibar; for when I opened the road, all those
+men he heard of would swarm up here to visit him. He, however, only
+laughed at my folly in proposing to go to a place of which all I heard
+was merely that every stranger who went there was killed. He began to
+show a disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most
+friendly intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him could
+have ruined my projects. As it was, I feared my followers might take
+fright and refuse to advance with me. I thought it good policy to talk
+of there being many roads leading through Africa, so that Rumanika might
+see he had not got, as he thought, the sole key to the interior. I told
+him again of certain views I once held of coming to see him from the
+north up the Nile, and from the east through the Masai. He observed
+that, "To open either of those routes, you would require at least two
+hundred guns." He would, however, do something when we returned from
+Uganda; for as Mtesa followed his advice in everything, so did Kamrasi,
+for both held the highest opinion of him.
+
+The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and carriages
+moved up the streets like strings of ants on their migrations, Rumanika
+said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous extent, and the people
+great sportsmen, for they turned out in multitudes, with small dogs
+on whose necks were tied bells, and blowing horns themselves, to hunt
+leopards. They were, however, highly superstitious, and would not allow
+any strangers to enter their country; for some years ago, when Arabs
+went there, a great drought and famine set in, which they attributed to
+evil influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their country,
+said they would never admit any of their like amongst them again. I
+said, in return, I thought his Wanyambo just as superstitious, for I
+observed, whilst walking one day, that they had placed a gourd on the
+path, and on inquiry found they had done so to gain the sympathy of all
+passers-by to their crop close at hand, which was blighted, imagining
+that the voice of the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them
+to relent, and restore a healthy tone to the crop.
+
+During this time an interesting case was brought before us for judgment.
+Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her child, which, as it
+was a male one, belonged to the father. Baraka was appointed the umpire,
+and immediately comparing the infant's face with those of its claimants,
+gave a decision which all approved of but the loser. It was pronounced
+amidst peals of laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement
+is going forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give
+their opinions, and joke over it afterwards.
+
+29th and 30th.--On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he said,
+"Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some domestic
+incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in Karague was a
+mere matter of money." Cows, sheep, and slaves have to be given to the
+father for the value of his daughter; but if she finds she has made
+a mistake, she can return the dowry-money, and gain her release. The
+Wahuma, although they keep slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not
+allow their daughters to taint their blood by marrying out of their
+clan. In warfare it is the rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their
+own soldiers, and set them the example of courage, when, after firing
+a few arrows, they throw their bows away, and close at once with their
+spears and assages. Life is never taken in Karague, either for murder
+or cowardice, as they value so much their Wahuma breed; but, for all
+offences, fines of cows are exacted according to the extent of the
+crime.
+
+31st.--Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent from
+Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my own, Rumanika
+dwelt on my theological disclosures with the greatest delight, and
+wished to know what difference existed between the Arabs and ourselves;
+to which Baraka replied, as the best means of making him understand,
+that whilst the Arabs had only one Book, we had two; to which I added,
+Yes, that is true in a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that
+we have got the better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact
+that we are more prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I
+would prove to him if he would allow me to take one of his sons home to
+learn that BOOK; for then he would find his tribe, after a while, better
+off than the Arabs are. Much delighted, he said he would be very glad to
+give me two boys for that purpose.
+
+Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had no
+idea of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he expected
+from sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave. He laughingly
+replied he did not know, but he hoped he might be favoured with better
+crops if he did so. He also place pombe and grain, he said, for the same
+reason, before a large stone on the hillside, although it could not
+eat, or make any use of it; but the coast-men were of the same belief
+as himself, and so were all the natives. No one in Africa, as far as he
+knew, doubted the power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when
+he was leading an army to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that
+this prognosticated evil. There were many other animals, and lucky and
+unlucky birds, which all believed in.
+
+I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us to
+contend with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck and such
+omens, put our faith only in skill and pluck, which Baraka elucidated
+from his military experience in the wars in British India. Lastly, I
+explained to him how England formerly was as unenlightened as Africa,
+and believing in the same sort of superstitions, and the inhabitants
+were all as naked as his skin-wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had
+grown wiser, and saw through such impostures, they were the greatest men
+in the world. He said, for the future he would disregard what the Arabs
+said, and trust to my doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen
+such a wise man as myself; and the Arabs themselves confirmed this when
+they told him that all their beads and cloths came from the land of the
+Wazungu, or white men.
+
+1st, 2d, and 3d.--The new year was ushered in by the most exciting
+intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for we fully
+believed Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring
+to meet us. It was this:--An officer of Rumanika's, who had been sent
+four years before on a mission to Kamrasi, had just then returned with
+a party of Kamrasi's who brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro,
+along with a vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had
+foreign visitors as well as himself. They had not actually come into
+Unyoro, but were in his dependency, the country of Gani, coming up the
+Nile in vessels. They had been attacked by the Gani people, and driven
+back with considerable loss both of men and property, although they were
+in sailing vessels, and fired guns which even broke down the trees on
+the banks. Some of their property had been brought to him, and he in
+return had ordered his subjects not to molest them, but allow them to
+come on to him. Rumanika enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially
+when I told him of Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these men
+said he was trying to do; and more especially so, when I told him that
+if he would assist me in trying to communicate with Petherick, the
+latter would either come here himself, or send one of his men, conveying
+a suitable present, whilst I was away in Uganda; and then in the end we
+would all go off to Kamrasi's together.
+
+4th.--Entering warmly into the spirit of this important intelligence,
+Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no reason to doubt it,
+said he would send some men back with Kamrasi's men, if I could have
+patience until they were ready to go. There would be no danger, as
+Kamrasi was his brother-in-law, and would do all that he told him.
+
+I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he would
+go with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of his
+own choosing, who would take care of him if he got sick on the way,
+otherwise he should be afraid they would leave him to die, like a dog,
+in the jungles. We consoled him by assenting to the companion he wished,
+and making Rumanika responsible that no harm should come to him from any
+of the risks which his imagination conjured up. Rumanika then gave him
+and Uledi, his selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that
+they might disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the
+territories of the king of Uganda. On inquiring as to the reason of
+this, it transpired that, to reach Unyoro, the party would have to cross
+a portion of Uddu, which the late king Sunna, on annexing that country
+to Uganda, had divided, not in halves, but by alternate bands running
+transversely from Nkole to the Victoria N'yanza.
+
+5th and 6th.--To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to him
+Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in Walamo, on
+the borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his similarity to the Wahuma,
+how it was I had come to the conclusion that he was of the same race.
+Saidi told him his tribe kept cattle with the same stupendous horns as
+those of the Wahuma; and also that, in the same manner, they all mixed
+blood and milk for their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my
+statement. At night, as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the
+Wanguana marched up and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts, singing
+and beating our tin cooking-pots to frighten off the spirit of the sun
+from consuming entirely the chief object of reverence, the moon.
+
+7th.--Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a
+semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a visit to
+the king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large present of ivory and
+slaves; for he said he had heard from the king of our intention to visit
+him, and that he had despatched officers to call us immediately. This
+intelligence delighted Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner
+heard it than he said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the
+white men desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to
+strangers?" Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is, you will
+not take something as a return for the great expenses you have been put
+to in coming to visit me." The expense was admitted, for I had now been
+obliged to purchase from the Arabs upwards of L400 worth of beads, to
+keep such a store in reserve for my return from Uganda as would enable
+me to push on to Gondokoro. I thought this necessary, as every report
+that arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the
+merchants in that country. Sheikh Said was there even then, with my poor
+Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast.
+
+8th to 10th.--At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda drum.
+Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-dressed men,
+women, and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, announced
+to our straining ears the welcome intelligence that their king had sent
+them to call us. N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to
+inform the king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely
+delighted at the prospect of having white men for his guests, desired
+no time should be lost in our coming on. Maula told us that his officers
+had orders to supply us with everything we wanted whilst passing through
+his country, and that there would be nothing to pay.
+
+One thing only now embarrassed me--Grant was worse, without hope of
+recovery for at least one or two months. This large body of Waganda
+could not be kept waiting. To get on as fast as possible was the only
+chance of ever bringing the journey to a successful issue; so, unable to
+help myself, with great remorse at another separation, on the following
+day I consigned my companion, with several Wanguana, to the care of my
+friend Rumanika. I then separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper
+wires for my expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I
+gave to Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money
+for six months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani chief.
+To Nsangez I gave charge of my collections in natural history, and the
+reports of my progress, addressed to the Geographical Society, which he
+was to convey to Sheikh Said at Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar.
+
+This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the palace
+to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his officers,
+to accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring me back safely
+again. At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's pages some ammunition
+to hurry on with to the great king of Uganda, as his majesty had ordered
+them to bring him, as quickly as possible, some strengthening powder,
+and also some powder for his gun. Then, finally, to Maula, also under
+Rumanika's instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of
+beads; and, when all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure
+in my mind that before very long I should settle the great Nile problem
+for ever; and, with this consciousness, only hoping that Grant would be
+able to join me before I should have to return again, for it was never
+supposed for a moment that it was possible I ever could go north from
+Uganda. Rumanika was the most resolute in this belief, as the kings
+of Uganda, ever since that country was detached from Unyoro, had been
+making constant raids, seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding
+communities.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter IX. History of the Wahuma
+
+The Abyssinians and Gallas--Theory of Conquest of Inferior by Superior
+Races--The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara--Legendary History of the
+Kingdom of Uganda--Its Constitution, and the Ceremonials of the Court.
+
+The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor states, and
+has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most powerful state in the
+ancient but now divided great kingdom of Kittara. I shall have to record
+a residence of considerable duration at the court there; and, before
+entering on it, I propose to state my theory of the ethnology of
+that part of Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled
+Wahuma--otherwise Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the
+traditions of the several nations, as checked by my own observations of
+what I saw when passing through them. It appears impossible to believe,
+judging from the physical appearance of the Wahuma, that they can be of
+any other race than the semi-Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia. The traditions
+of the imperial government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural
+age of King David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela
+Selassie, traced his descent.
+
+Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race
+from the Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation. Both alike are
+Christians of the greatest antiquity. It is true that, whilst
+the aboriginal Abyssinians in Abyssinia proper are more commonly
+agriculturists, the Gallas are chiefly a pastoral people; but I conceive
+that the two may have had the same relations with each other which I
+found the Wahuma kings and Wahuma herdsmen holding with the agricultural
+Wazinza in Uzinza, the Wanyambo in Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and
+the Wanyoro in Unyoro.
+
+In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners, who
+had invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the agricultural
+aborigines to till the ground, whilst the junior members of the usurping
+clans herded cattle--just as in Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians
+or Gallas have shown themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic
+side took the government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled
+over them ever since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans,
+the texture of their hair and colour to a certain extent, but still
+maintaining a high stamp of Asiatic feature, of which a market
+characteristic is a bridged instead of bridgeless nose.
+
+It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact
+government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent out
+armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-east, and
+west, slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went, and in process
+of time becoming too great for one ruler to control. Junior members of
+the royal family then, pushing their fortunes, dismembered themselves
+from the parent stock, created separate governments, and, for reasons
+which cannot be traced, changed their names. In this manner we may
+suppose that the Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located
+themselves to the south of their native land.
+
+Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas--it matters not which they were or
+what we call them--likewise detaching themselves, fought in the Somali
+country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a certain extent by the
+Arabs from the opposite continent, and tried their hands south as far as
+the Jub river, where they also left many of their numbers behind. Again
+they attacked Omwita (the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost
+sight of in the interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close
+to its source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded
+the great kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion, forgot
+their language, extracted their lower incisors like the natives, changed
+their national name to Wahuma, and no longer remembered the names
+of Hubshi or Galla--though even the present reigning kings retain a
+singular traditional account of their having once been half white and
+half black, with hair on the white side straight, and on the black
+side frizzly. It was a curious indication of the prevailing idea still
+entertained by them of their foreign extraction, that it was surmised
+in Unyoro that the approach of us white men into their country from both
+sides at once, augured an intention on our part to take back the country
+from them. Believing, as they do, that Africa formerly belonged to
+Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes with whom they had allied
+themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a small residue of the original
+European stock driven from the land--an idea which seems natural enough
+when we consider that the Wahuma are, in numbers, quite insignificant
+compared with the natives.
+
+Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the north
+when asked where their country Uwitu is situated, doubtfully saying,
+when questioned about its distance, "How can we tell circumstances which
+took place in our forefathers' times? we only think it is somewhere
+near your country." Although, however, this very interesting people, the
+Wahuma, delight in supposing themselves to be of European origin, they
+are forced to confess, on closer examination, that although they came in
+the first instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from
+the east, as part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who excel in
+arms, and are so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war as these too are
+described to be, can stand against them. This points, if our maps are
+true, to the Gallas--for all pastorals in these people's minds are
+Wahuma; and if we could only reconcile ourselves to the belief that the
+Wawitu derived their name from Omwita, the last place they attacked
+on the east coast of Africa, then all would be clear: for it must be
+noticed the Wakama, or kings, when asked to what race they owe their
+origin, invariably reply, in the first place, from princes--giving, for
+instance, the titles Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague--which
+is most likely caused by their never having been asked such a close
+question before, whilst the idiom of the language generally induces them
+to call themselves after the name applied to their country.
+
+So much for ethnological conjecture. Let us now deal with the Wahuma
+since they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of Kittara, a large
+tract of land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza and Kitangule Kagera or
+River on the south, the Nile on the east, the Little Luta-Nzige Lake
+[15] on the north, and the kingdoms of Utubi and Nkole on the west.
+
+The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is seldom
+applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-eastern, in
+which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and the other, Uddu
+apart from Uganda, as we shall presently see.
+
+Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the Wahuma
+government of Unyoro is. The last three kings are Chiawambi, N'yawongo,
+and the present king Kamrasi. In very early times dissensions amongst
+the royal family, probably contending for the crown, such as we presume
+must have occurred in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove
+the weaker to find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent
+government of Wahuma was established. Since then, twenty generations
+ago, it is said the Wahuma government of Karague was established in the
+same manner. The conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to Karague with a
+large party of Wahuma; sought the protection of Nono, who, a Myambo,
+was king over the Wanyambo of that country; ingratiated himself and
+his followers with the Wanyambo; and, finally, designing a crown for
+himself, gave a feast, treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and
+set himself on the throne, the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague.
+Rohinda was succeeded by Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II., which
+order only changed with the eleventh reign, when Rusatira ascended the
+throne, and was succeeded by Mehinga, then Kalimera, then Ntare VII.,
+then Rohinda VI., then Dagara, and now Rumanika. During this time the
+Wahuma were well south of the equator, and still destined to spread.
+Brothers again contended for the crown of their father, and the weaker
+took refuge in Uzinza, where the fourth Wahuma government was created,
+and so remained under one king until the last generation, when King Ruma
+died, and his two sons, Rohinda, the eldest, and Suwarora, contended
+for the crown, but divided the country between them, Rohinda taking the
+eastern half, and Suwarora the western, at the instigation of the late
+King Dagara of Karague.
+
+This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the
+farthest spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are emigrants
+from Karague of the same stock, overlooking the Tanganyika Lake from
+the hills of Uhha, and tending their cattle all over Unyamuezi under the
+protection of the native negro chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka
+of Fipa, south of the Rukwa Lake are the same. How or when their name
+became changed from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but,
+again deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting
+that, in the same way as this change has taken place, the name Galla
+may have been changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. But though
+in these southern regions the name of the clan has been changed, the
+princes still retain the title of Wahinda as in Karague, instead of
+Wawitu as in Unyoro, and are considered of such noble breed that many
+of the pure negro chiefs delight in saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to
+the confusion of travellers, which confusion is increased by the Wahuma
+habits of conforming to the regulations of the different countries they
+adopt. For instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close
+to Unyoro, do not extract their lower incisors; and though the Wanyoro
+only use the spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the most expert
+archers in Africa. We are thus left only the one very distinguishing
+mark, the physical appearance of this remarkable race, partaking even
+more of the phlegmatic nature of the Shemitic father than the nervous
+boisterous temperament of the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their
+Shem-Hamitic origin.
+
+It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the
+present kingdom of Uganda--which, to say the least of it, is extremely
+interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as different from the
+other surrounding countries as those of Europe are compared to Asia.
+
+In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their lands
+bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to its exceeding
+fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or slaves, upon its people,
+because they had to supply the imperial government with food and
+clothing. Coffee was conveyed to the capital by the Wiru, also mbugu
+(bark-cloaks), from an inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of
+the Wiru were famous for their rich productions.
+
+Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the southern; hence
+Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in one connected line from
+the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until eight generations back, when,
+according to tradition, a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came
+with a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left
+bank of Katonga valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man,
+though so successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked
+to him for flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their
+king, saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king, living so far
+away that when we sent him a cow as a tributary offering, that cow on
+the journey gave a calf, and the calf became a cow and gave another
+calf, and so on, and yet the present has not reached its destination?"
+
+At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king already,
+but on being farther pressed consented; when the people hearing his name
+said, "Well, let it be so; and for the future let this country between
+the Nile and Katonga be called Uganda, and let your name be Kimera, the
+first king of Uganda."
+
+The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his hand, and
+a woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day people assert that
+his footprints and the mark left by his spear-end, as well as the seats
+of the woman and dog, are visible. The report of these circumstances
+soon reached the great king of Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely
+said, "The poor creature must be starving; allow him to feed there if
+he likes." The kings who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2.
+Katereza; 3. Chabago; 4. Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not
+yet crowned.
+
+These kings have all carried on the same system of government as that
+commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror to Unyoro,
+as we shall see in the sequel. Kimera, suddenly risen to eminence, grew
+proud and headstrong--formed a strong clan around him, whom he appointed
+to be his Wakunga, or officers--rewarded well, punished severely, and
+soon became magnificent. Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne
+to sit upon, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed
+people, even a menagerie for pleasure--in fact, only the best of
+everything--would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were built
+for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king might never
+decrease. In short, the system of government, according to barbarous
+ideas was perfect. Highways were cut from one extremity of the country
+to the other, and all rivers bridged. No house could be built without
+its necessary appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could
+expose his person; and to disobey these laws was death.
+
+After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never decreased,
+but rather improved. The clan of officers formed by him were as proud of
+their emancipation from slavery, as the king they had created was of his
+dominion over them. They buried Kimera with state honours, giving charge
+of the body to the late king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was
+to dry the corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an
+earthen open pot heated by fire from below. When this drying process was
+completed, at the expiration of three months, the lower jaw was cut out
+and neatly worked over with beads; the umbilical cord, which had been
+preserved from birth, was also worked with beads. These were kept apart,
+but the body was consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this
+officer and a certain number of the king's next most favourite women,
+all of whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted
+from seeing the succeeding king.
+
+By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of princes or
+Warangira, and as many princesses. From the Warangira the Wakunga
+now chose as their king the one whom they thought best suited for the
+government of the country--not of too high rank by the mother's side,
+lest their selection in his pride should kill them all, but one of low
+birth. The rest were placed with wives in a suite of huts, under charge
+of a keeper, to prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions. They
+were to enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of
+discretion and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would be
+burnt to death, the two being reserved in case of accident as long
+as the king wanted brother companions, when one would be banished to
+Unyoro, and the other pensioned with suitable possessions in Uganda. The
+mother of the king by this measure became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore.
+She halved with her son all the wives of the deceased king not stationed
+at his grave, taking second choice; kept up a palace only little
+inferior to her son's with large estates, guided the prince-elect in the
+government of the country, and remained until the end of his minority
+the virtual ruler of the land; at any rate, no radical political changes
+could take place without her sanction. The princesses became the wives
+of the king; no one else could marry them.
+
+Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief, also
+titled Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank. Amongst
+them in due order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who had the
+good fortune to have cut the umbilical cord at the king's birth; the
+Sawaganzi, queen's sister and king's barber; Kaggao, Polino, Sakibobo,
+Kitunzi, and others, governors of provinces; Jumab, admiral of the
+fleet; Kasugu, guardian of the king's sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa
+and Usungu, first and second class executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in
+charge of tombs; Seruti, brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run
+messages and look after the women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds. One
+Mkungu is always over the palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or
+guards which are changed monthly; another is ever in attendance as
+seizer of refractory persons. There are also in the palace almost
+constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase, pea-gourd rattlers;
+Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players; also players
+on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the players sing
+accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on their fingers--for music
+is half the amusement of these courts. Everybody in Uganda is expected
+to keep spears, shields and dogs, the Uganda arms and cognisance; whilst
+the Wakungu are entitled to drums. There is also a Neptune Mgussa, or
+spirit, who lives in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through the
+medium of his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the naval
+destiny of the king.
+
+It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at court
+as constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit their lands,
+wives, and all belongings. These will be seized and given to others more
+worthy of them; as it is presumed that either insolence or disaffection
+can be the only motive which would induce any person to absent himself
+for any length of time from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign.
+Tidiness in dress is imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of
+this rule the head may be the forfeit. The punishment for such offences,
+however, may be commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass
+wire. All acts of the king are counted benefits, for which he must be
+thanked; and so every deed done to his subjects is a gift received by
+them, though it should assume the shape of flogging or fine; for are
+not these, which make better men of them, as necessary as anything? The
+thanks are rendered by gravelling on the ground, floundering about
+and whining after the manner of happy dogs, after which they rise
+up suddenly, take up sticks--spears are not allowed to be carried in
+court--make as if charging the king, jabbering as fast as tongues can
+rattle, and so they swear fidelity for all their lives.
+
+This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed kneeling
+in an attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the hands, and
+repeating sundry words. Among them the word "n'yanzig" is the most
+frequent and conspicuous; and hence these gesticulations receive the
+general designation n'yanzig--a term which will be frequently met with,
+and which I have found it necessary to use like an English verb. In
+consequence of these salutations, there is more ceremony in court
+than business, though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury,
+continually finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit,
+takes his liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and thus keeps
+up his revenue.
+
+No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing still or
+sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and bended knees, and
+kneel or sit when arrived. To touch the king's throne or clothes, even
+by accident, or to look upon his women is certain death. When sitting
+in court holding a levee, the king invariably has in attendance several
+women, Wabandwa, evil-eye averters or sorcerers. They talk in feigned
+voices raised to a shrillness almost amounting to a scream. They wear
+dried lizards on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little
+bells, diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles--their
+functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa (plantain
+wine). To complete the picture of the court, one must imagine a crowd of
+pages to run royal messages; they dare not walk for such deficiency in
+zeal to their master might cost their life. A further feature of the
+court consists in the national symbols already referred to--a dog, two
+spears, and shield.
+
+With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of a
+square many deep before him, in the hollow of which are drummers and
+other musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in high dignity, issues
+his orders for the day much to the following effect:--"Cattle, women,
+and children are short in Uganda; an army must be formed of one to two
+thousand strong, to plunder Unyoro. The Wasoga have been insulting his
+subjects, and must be reduced to subjection: for this emergency another
+army must be formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction
+with the fleet. The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately
+and must be taxed." For all these matters the commander-in-chief tells
+off the divisional officers, who are approved by the king, and the
+matter is ended in court. The divisional officers then find subordinate
+officers, who find men, and the army proceeds with its march. Should
+any fail with their mission, reinforcements are sent, and the runaways,
+called women, are drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no
+longer, and die for their cowardice., All heroism, however, ensures
+promotion. The king receives his army of officers with great ceremony,
+listens to their exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle, and
+command over men--the greatest elements of wealth in Uganda--with a
+liberal hand.
+
+As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are brought in
+bound by officers, and reported. At once the sentence is given, perhaps
+awarding the most torturous, lingering death--probably without trial or
+investigation, and, for all the king knows, at the instigation of some
+one influenced by wicked spite. If the accused endeavour to plead his
+defence, his voice is at once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged
+off in the roughest manner possible by those officers who love their
+king, and delight in promptly carrying out his orders. Young virgins,
+the daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease, but
+holding, for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the upper
+corners in both hands before them, are presented by their fathers in
+propitiation for some offence, and to fill the harem. Seizing-officers
+receive orders to hunt down Wakungu who have committed some
+indiscretions, and to confiscate their lands, wives, children, and
+property. An officer observed to salute informally is ordered for
+execution, when everybody near him rises in an instant, the drums beat,
+drowning his cries, and the victim of carelessness is dragged off, bound
+by cords, by a dozen men at once. Another man, perhaps, exposes an
+inch of naked leg whilst squatting, or has his mbugu tied contrary to
+regulations, and is condemned to the same fate.
+
+Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented; they are
+smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied to his face,
+to show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift; then thanks are
+proferred for the leniency of the king in letting the presenter off so
+cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full of smiles, to the ranks of
+the squatters. Thousands of cattle, and strings of women and children,
+sometimes the result of a victorious plundering hunt, or else the
+accumulated seizures from refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there
+is no more common or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath
+towards any refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few
+young beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of
+good service to other officers.
+
+Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to have
+supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with similar
+qualities, are produced by the royal magicians. The master of the hunt
+exposes his spoils--such as antelopes, cats, porcupines, curious rats,
+etc., all caught in nets, and placed in baskets--zebra, lion, and
+buffalo skins being added. The fishermen bring their spoils; also the
+gardeners. The cutlers show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with
+brass and copper; the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of
+antelopes' skins; the habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the
+blacksmith, spears; the maker of shields, his productions;--and so
+forth; but nothing is ever given without rubbing it down, then rubbing
+the face, and going through a long form of salutation for the gracious
+favour the king has shown in accepting it.
+
+When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and, leading his
+dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his company, like dogs,
+to take care of themselves.
+
+Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the interior
+is not less severe. The pages all wear turbans of cord made from aloe
+fibres. Should a wife commit any trifling indiscretion, either by word
+or deed, she is condemned to execution on the spot, bound by the pages
+and dragged out. Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation
+of decorum by all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are the
+valets.
+
+On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king shuts
+himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns--the horns of
+wild animals stuffed with charm-powder--for two or three days. These
+may be counted his Sundays or church festivals, which he dedicates to
+devotion. On other days he takes his women, some hundreds, to bathe
+or sport in ponds; or, when tired of that, takes long walks, his women
+running after him, when all the musicians fall in, take precedence
+of the party, followed by the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the
+centre of the procession, separating the male company from the fair sex.
+On these excursions no common man dare look upon the royal procession.
+Should anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at once hunted down by
+the pages, robbed of everything he possessed, and may count himself
+very lucky if nothing worse happens. Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and
+sometimes the king spends a fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or
+wherever he goes, the same ceremonies prevail--his musicians, Wakungu,
+pages, and the wives take part in all.
+
+But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the
+coronation. The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the kings of
+all the surrounding countries, demanding in his might and power one of
+each of their daughters in marriage, or else recognition in some other
+way, when the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage to the deceased king's tomb, to
+observe, by the growth an other signs of certain trees, and plants, what
+destiny awaits the king. According to the prognostics, they report that
+he will either have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take
+the field at the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both
+ways, when usually the first march is on Kittara, and the second on
+Usoga. The Mgussa's voice is also heard, but in what manner I do not
+know, as all communication on state matters is forbidden in Uganda.
+These preliminaries being arranged, the actual coronation takes place,
+when the king ceases to hold any farther communion with his mother. The
+brothers are burnt to death, and the king, we shall suppose, takes the
+field at the head of his army.
+
+It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and the
+remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter X. Karague and Uganda
+
+Escape from Protectors--Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent of the
+Nile--Enter Uddu--Uganda--A Rich Country--Driving away the Devil--A
+Conflict in the Camp--A Pretending Prince--Three Pages with a Diplomatic
+Message from the King of Uganda--Crime in Uganda.
+
+Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs at
+Kufro. Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I found good
+English peas growing. Next day (11th), crossing over a succession of
+forks, supporters to the main spur, we encamped at Luandalo. Here we
+were overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained behind, as I now found, to
+collect a large number of Wanyambo, whom he called his children, to
+share with him the gratuitous living these creatures always look out for
+on a march of this nature.
+
+After working round the end of the great spur whilst following down the
+crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep valley from the
+hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and coffee productions.
+On entering the rich plantain gardens of Kisaho, I was informed we
+must halt there a day for Maula to join us, as he had been detained
+by Rumanika, who, wishing to give him a present, had summoned Rozaro's
+sister to his palace for that purpose. She was married to another, and
+had two children by him, but that did not signify, as it was found
+in time her husband had committed a fault, on account of which it was
+thought necessary to confiscate all his property.
+
+At this place all the people were in a constant state of inebriety,
+drinking pombe all day and all night. I shot a montana antelope, and
+sent its head and skin back to Grant, accompanied with my daily report
+to Rumanika.
+
+Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the fork
+overlooking the plain of Kitangule--the Waganada drums beating, and
+whistles playing all the way we went along.
+
+We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a long
+alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of Kitangule,
+where Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of cows. In former days
+the dense green forests peculiar to the tropics, which grow in swampy
+places about this plain, were said to have been stocked by vast herds of
+elephants; but, since the ivory trade had increased, these animals had
+all been driven off to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu
+beyond the river, and all the way down to the N'yanza.
+
+To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I
+ascertained in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on the
+west side. Most unfortunately, as we led off to cross it, rain began
+to pour, so that everybody and everything was thrown into confusion.
+I could not get a sketch of it, though Grant was more fortunate
+afterwards; neither could I measure or fathom it; and it was only after
+a long contest with the superstitious boatmen that they allowed me to
+cross in their canoe with my shoes on, as they thought the vessel would
+either upset, or else the river would dry up, in consequence of their
+Neptune taking offence at me. Once over, I looked down on the noble
+stream with considerable pride. About eight yards broad, it was sunk
+down a considerable depth below the surface of the land, like a huge
+canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by the canoemen; while it
+runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an hour.
+
+I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of its
+being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the Moon solely
+on scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the bulk of the stream,
+I also believed those mountains must obtain an altitude of 8000 feet
+[16] or more, just as we find they do in Ruanda. I thought then to
+myself, as I did at Rumanika's, when I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones,
+and gathered all my distant geographical information there, that these
+highly saturated Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well
+as to the Nile, and also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze.
+
+I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous
+information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well as the
+Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus, who told
+it to the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy Egyptian
+geographers, who disseminated their knowledge with a view to be famous
+for their long-sightedness, in solving the deep-seated mystery with
+enshrouded the source of their holy river, were so many hypothetical
+humbugs. Reasoning thus, the Hindu traders alone, in those days, I
+believed, had a firm basis to stand upon, from their intercourse with
+the Abyssinians--through whom they must have heard of the country of
+Amara, which they applied to the N'yanza--and with the Wanyamuezi or
+men of the Moon, from whom they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague
+mountains. I was all the more impressed with this belief, by knowing
+that the two church missionaries, Rebmann and Erhardt, without the
+smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map, constructed a map of their own,
+deduced from the Zanzibar traders, something on the same scale, by
+blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida, and N'yazza into one; whilst
+to their triuned lake they gave the name Moon, because the men of the
+Moon happened to live in front of the central lake. And later still, Mr
+Leon, another missionary, heard of the N'yanza and the country Amara,
+near which he heard the Nile made its escape.
+
+Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden of
+plantains. The whole country was rich--most surprisingly so. The same
+streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague. There was
+nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it liked moisture
+and a temperate heat. It was a perfect paradise for negroes: as fast as
+they sowed they were sure of a crop without much trouble; though, I must
+say, they kept their huts and their gardens in excellent order.
+
+As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also. The whole country along
+the banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests, was alive
+with antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would not fire at
+them until it was time to return, as the villagers led me to expect
+buffaloes. The consequence was, as no buffaloes were to be found, I got
+no sport, though I wounded a hartebeest, and followed him almost into
+camp, when I gave up the chase to some negroes, and amused myself by
+writing to Rumanika, to say if Grant did not reach me by a certain date,
+I would try to navigate the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the
+Kitangule river.
+
+We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous
+kingdom of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza. Here I was shown by
+Nasib a village called Ngandu, which was the farthest trading depot of
+the Zanzibar ivory-merchants. It was established by Musa Mzuri, by
+the permission of Rumanika; for, as I shall have presently to mention,
+Sunna, after annexing this part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain
+bands of territory in it as a means of security against the possibility
+of its being wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of
+Unyoro. Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade;
+but they were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by
+Rumanika, and obliged to locate themselves at Kufro. To the right, at
+the end of the spur, stretching as far as the eye could reach towards
+the N'yanza, was a rich, well-wooded, swampy plain, containing large
+open patches of water, which not many years since, I was assured, were
+navigable for miles, but now, like the Urigi lake, were gradually drying
+up. Indeed, it appeared to me as if the N'yanza must have once washed
+the foot of these hills, but had since shrunk away from its original
+margin.
+
+On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness and
+good arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive beauty and
+richness. No part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel it in either
+respect; and my men, with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah, what people
+these Waganda are!" and passed other remarks, which may be abridged as
+follows:--"They build their huts and keep their gardens just as well as
+we do at Unguja, with screens and enclosures for privacy, a clearance in
+front of their establishments, and a baraza or reception-hut facing the
+buildings. Then, too, what a beautiful prospect it has!--rich marshy
+plains studded with mounds, on each of which grow the umbrella cactus,
+or some other evergreen tree; and beyond, again, another hill-spur such
+as the one we have crossed over." One of king Mtesa's uncles, who had
+not been burnt to death by the order of the late king Sunna on
+his ascension to the throne, was the proprietor of this place, but
+unfortunately he was from home. However, his substitute gave me his
+baraza to live in, and brought many presents of goats, fowls, sweet
+potatoes, yams, plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn, and apologised in
+the end for deficiency in hospitality. I, of course, gave him beads in
+return.
+
+Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding spurs
+of the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the residence of
+Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of Rumanika's. His residence was
+as well kept as Mtesa's uncle's; but instead of a baraza fronting his
+house, he had a small enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart
+for devotional purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits--in short,
+according to the notions of the place, a church. This officer gave me a
+cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some beads.
+Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others Mabandwa, all
+wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu, covered with beads, shells,
+and sticks, danced before us, singing a comic song, the chorus of which
+was a long shrill rolling Coo-roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as
+they came to a standstill. Their true functions were just as obscure as
+the religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-drivers,
+other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they imposed a tax
+on the people, whose minds being governed by a necessity for making some
+self-sacrifice to propitiate something, they could not tell what, for
+their welfare in the world, they always gave them a trifle in the same
+way as the East Indians do their fakirs.
+
+After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger group,
+or rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the N'yanza, called
+Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's frontier officer.
+Immediately behind this, to the northward, commenced the kingdom of
+Unyoro; and here it was, they said, Baraka would branch off my line on
+his way to Kamrasi. Maula's home was one march distant from this, so the
+scoundrel now left me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for
+doing so, that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send
+on a messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on the
+line of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of people, who could
+only be kept in order by the executioner; and doubtless many, as was
+customary on such occasions, would be beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard
+of my coming, to put the rest in a fright. I knew this was all humbug,
+of course, and I told him so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled
+to halt.
+
+On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said, Mtesa,
+having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague, had given him
+orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or well, for Mtesa was
+most anxious to see white men. Hearing this I at once wrote to Grant,
+begging him to come on if he could do so, and to bring with him all the
+best of my property, or as much as he could of it, as I now saw there
+was more cunning humbug than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about
+the impossibility of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his
+saying sick men could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers
+would not be admitted there, because they were considered indecent.
+If he was not well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until
+I reached Mtesa's, when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule to
+fetch him away, or would make the king send boats for him, which I more
+expressly wished, as it would tend to give us a much better knowledge of
+the lake.
+
+Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry messages, and
+I forced him to make a move. He led me straight up to his home, a very
+nice place, in which he gave me a very large, clean, and comfortable
+hut--had no end of plantains brought for me and my men--and said, "Now
+you have really entered the kingdom of Uganda, for the future you must
+buy no more food. At every place that you stop for the day, the
+officer in charge will bring you plantains, otherwise your men can help
+themselves in the gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a
+king's guest travels in it. Any one found selling anything to either
+yourself or your men would be punished." Accordingly, I stopped the
+daily issue of beads; but no sooner had I done so, than all my men
+declared they could not eat plantains. It was all very well, they said,
+for the Waganda to do so, because they were used to it, but it did not
+satisfy their hunger.
+
+Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for
+the march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger
+returned from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the
+most. Much annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I
+refused all Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with;
+and, finding it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not
+stand being chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should
+go without him. Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back
+again. I said, if he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation
+ended.
+
+26th.--Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been going
+on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil out of
+a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old man
+and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their
+laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly
+bringing them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe.
+In the courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed
+in smart mbugus--the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds
+wound round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty
+manner. These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up
+such a continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this
+assembly I now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on
+ahead from Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With
+him, he said, were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring
+on my party and Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that
+the instant he arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit
+him, the king caused "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be
+executed, because, he said, his subjects were so bumptious they would
+not allow any visitors to come near him, else he would have had white
+men before.
+
+27th.--N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and said
+he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui, and wish to
+visit him. The handkerchief I had given Irungu at Usui to present as a
+letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from him, and given, himself, to
+his king, who no sooner received it than he bound it round his head,
+and said, in ecstasies of delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does
+indeed want to see me." Then giving him four cows as a return letter
+to take to me, he said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him
+here." "The cows," said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another
+route, but I will bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking you, I
+will go and fetch Grant." I then told him not to be in such a hurry.
+I had turned off Maula for treating me like a dog, and I would not be
+escorted by him again. He replied that his orders would not be fully
+accomplished as long as any part of my establishment was behind; so he
+would, if I wished it, leave part of his "children" to guide me on to
+Mtesa's, whilst he went to fetch Grant. An officer, I assured him, had
+just gone on to fetch Grant, so he need not trouble his head on that
+score; at any rate, he might reverse his plan, and send his children
+for Grant, whilst he went on with me, by which means he would fully
+accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I at length turned
+the tables by asking who was the greatest--myself or my children; when
+he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do as you wish; and
+after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will march to-morrow at
+sunrise."
+
+The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear. I was greatly annoyed lest
+Maula should come and try to drive him away. I waited, restraining my
+impatience until noon, when, as I could stand it no longer, I ordered
+Bombay to strike my tent, and commence the march. A scene followed,
+which brought out my commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising
+shape. "How can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I.
+"Who will guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again. "But
+Rumanika's men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us the
+way." "Never mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." Then, as Bombay
+would not do it, I commenced myself, assisted by some of my other men,
+and pulled it down over his head, all the women who were assembled under
+it, and all the property. On this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing
+the men who were helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under
+the tent. I of course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He,
+in a still greater rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the whole
+place would be blown up. "That is no reason why you should abuse my
+men," I said, "who are better than you by obeying my orders. If I choose
+to blow up my property, that is my look-out; and if you don't do your
+duty, I will blow you up also." Foaming and roaring with rage, Bombay
+said he would not stand being thus insulted. I then gave him a dig
+on the head with my fist. He squared up, and pouted like an enraged
+chameleon, looking savagely at me. I gave him another dig, which sent
+him staggering. He squared again: I gave him another; till at last, as
+the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said he would not serve me
+any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's post, and commence
+the march; but the good old man made Bombay give in, and off we went,
+amidst crowds of Waganda, who had collected to witness with comedy, and
+were all digging at one another's heads, showing off in pantomime the
+strange ways of the white man. N'yamgundu then jointed us, and begged us
+to halt only one more day, as some of his women were still at Kisuere;
+but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual, said, "No;
+I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any more of
+your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if you like."
+N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable, and so we went on
+as we were doing. It was the first and last time I had ever occasion to
+lose my dignity by striking a blow with my own hands; but I could
+not help it on this occasion without losing command and respect; for
+although I often had occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men
+for stealing, I could not, for the sake of due subordination, allow
+any inferior officer to strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the work
+myself.
+
+Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the right we
+soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that appear to me to
+be the last waters left of the old bed of the N'yanza. This one in
+particular was rather large, being 150 yards wide. It was sunk where I
+crossed it, like a canal, 14 feet below the plain; and what with mire
+and water combined, so deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers
+whilst fording it. Once across, we sought for and put up in a village
+beneath a small hill, from the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza
+for the first time on this march. N'yamgundu delighted me much: treating
+me as king, he always fell down on his knees to address me, and made all
+his "children" look after my comfort in camp.
+
+We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately crossing
+rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly frequent, and rich
+gardens, from which, as we passed, all the inhabitants bolted at the
+sound of our drums, knowing well that they would be seized and punished
+if found gazing at the king's visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not
+one soul was visible. The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and
+my men without any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked
+out of them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the
+practice; for they said the Waganda served them the same way when they
+went to Karague, and they had a right to retaliate now. To obviate this
+distressing sort of plundering, I still served out beads to my men, and
+so kept them in hand a little; but they were fearfully unruly, and
+did not like my interference with what by the laws of the country they
+considered their right.
+
+Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in my
+hurry at leaving Maula's, were left behind. A letter from Grant was now
+brought to me by a very nice-looking young man, who had the skin of
+a leopard-cat (F. Serval) tied round his neck--a badge which royal
+personages only were entitled to wear. N'yamgundu seeing this, as he
+knew the young man was not entitled to wear it, immediately ordered his
+"children" to wrench it from him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him
+by his hands, and twisted his arms round and round until I thought they
+would come out of their sockets. Without uttering a sound the young man
+resisted, until N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would hold a
+court on the subject, and see if the young man could defend himself.
+The ruffians then sat on the ground, but still holding on to him; whilst
+N'yamgundu took up a long stick, and breaking it into sundry bits of
+equal length, placed one by one in front of him, each of which
+was supposed to represent one number in line of succession to his
+forefathers. By this it was proved he did not branch in any way from the
+royal stock. N'yamgundu then turning to the company, said, What would
+he do now to expiate his folly? If the matter was taken before Mtesa he
+would lose his head; was it not better he should pay one hundred cows
+All agreeing to this, the young man said he would do so, and quietly
+allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by the ruffians.
+
+Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains, whilst
+in sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most beautiful hills,
+covered with verdure of all descriptions. At Meruka, where I put up,
+there resided some grandees, the chief of whom was the king's aunt. She
+sent me a goat, a hen, a basket of eggs, and some plantains, in return
+for which I sent her a wire and some beads. I felt inclined to stop here
+a month, everything was so very pleasant. The temperature was perfect.
+The roads, as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our
+coach-roads, cut through the long grasses, straight over the hills and
+down through the woods in the dells--a strange contrast to the wretched
+tracks in all the adjacent countries. The huts were kept so clean and
+so neat, not a fault could be found with them--the gardens the same.
+Wherever I strolled I saw nothing but richness, and what ought to
+be wealth. The whole land was a picture of quiescent beauty, with a
+boundless sea in the background. Looking over the hills, it struck the
+fancy at once that at one period the whole land must have been at
+a uniform level with their present tops, but that by the constant
+denudation it was subjected to by frequent rains, it had been cut
+down and sloped into those beautiful hills and dales which now so much
+pleased the eye; for there were none of those quartz dykes I had seen
+protruding through the same kink of aqueous formations in Usui and
+Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic disturbance to
+distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene.
+
+From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-drains
+in the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings in my
+hands, nearly all the way. Rozaro's "children" became more and more
+troublesome, stealing everything they could lay their hands upon out
+of the village huts we passed on the way. On arrival at Sangua, I found
+many of them had been seized by some men who, bolder than the rest,
+had overtaken them whilst gutting their huts, and made them prisoners,
+demanding of me two slaves and one load of beads for their restitution.
+I sent my men back to see what had happened, and ordered them to bring
+all the men on to me, that I might see fair play. They, however, took
+the law into their own hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by firing
+their muskets, and relieved the thieves. A complaint was then laid
+against Nyamgundu by the chief officer of the village, and I was
+requested to halt. That I would not do, leaving the matter in the hands
+of the governor-general, Mr Pokino, whom I heard we should find at the
+next station, Masaka.
+
+On arrival there at the government establishment--a large collection of
+grass huts, separated one from the other within large enclosures, which
+overspread the whole top of a low hill--I was requested to withdraw and
+put up in some huts a short distance off, and wait until his excellency,
+who was from home, could come and see me; which the next day he did,
+coming in state with a large number of officers, who brought with them
+a cow, sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a large
+bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over this
+land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the branches like
+clusters of hollyberries.
+
+I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the appointed
+governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and the Kitangule
+rivers. After the first formalities were over, the complaint about the
+officers at Sangua was preferred for decision, on which Pokino at once
+gave it against the villagers, as they had no right, by the laws of the
+land, to lay hands on a king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and
+began to abuse N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after
+telling all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away
+out of my camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the
+king's order he was appointed; but he put Maula in the background,
+laughing at the way he had "let the bird fly out of his hands," and
+settled that N'yamgundu should be my guide. I then gave him a wire, and
+he gave me three large sheets of mbugu, which he said I should require,
+as there were so many water-courses to cross on the road I was going.
+A second day's halt was necessitated by many of my men catching fever,
+probably owing to the constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains.
+There was no want of food here, for I never saw such a profusion of
+plantains anywhere. They were literally lying in heaps on the ground,
+though the people were brewing pombe all day, and cooking them for
+dinner every evening.
+
+After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly coming in
+view of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the
+same description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu.
+Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this
+country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan
+of Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or
+taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends
+with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because
+he had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few
+years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to
+a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer.
+
+I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I
+had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave
+the preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the
+long range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large
+island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps
+one of his fleets of boats.
+
+Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting
+two round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages;
+and, producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their
+king, who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick
+on the ground before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being
+affected by dreams of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second
+symbolised the king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to
+which the old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they
+said, "is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in
+awe of him." I then promised I would do what I could when I reached the
+palace, but feared to do anything in the distance. I wished to go
+on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had
+received orders to find me some cows here, as his king was most anxious
+I should be well fed. Next day, however, we descended into the Katonga
+valley, where, instead of finding a magnificent broad sheet of water, as
+I had been led to expect by the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to
+wade through a succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by
+islands. It took me two hours, with my clothes tucked up under my arms,
+to get through them all; and many of them were so matted with weeds,
+that my feet sank down as though I trod in a bog.
+
+The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one could
+ford these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely enough, they
+were always lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. No one, however, could
+account for this singular fact. No one knew of a lake to supply the
+waters, nor where they came from. That they flowed into the lake
+there was no doubt--as I could see by the trickling waters in some few
+places--and they lay exactly on the equator. Rising out of the valley,
+I found all the country just as hilly as before, but many of the
+rush-drains going to northward; and in the dells were such magnificent
+trees, they quite took me by surprise. Clean-trunked, they towered up
+just as so many great pillars, and then spread out their high branches
+like a canopy over us. I thought of the blue gums of Australia,
+and believed these would beat them. At the village of Mbule we were
+gracefully received by the local officer, who brought a small present,
+and assured me that the king was in a nervous state of excitement,
+always asking after me. Whilst speaking he trembled, and he was so
+restless he could never sit still.
+
+Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country,
+surprisingly rich in grass, cultivation, and trees. Watercourses were as
+frequent as ever, though not quite so troublesome to the traveller, as
+they were more frequently bridged with poles or palm-tree trunks.
+
+This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own residence,
+where I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. Maula here had the
+coolness to tell me he must inspect all the things I had brought for
+presentation to the king, as he said it was the custom; after which he
+would hurry on and inform his majesty. Of course I refused, saying it
+was uncourteous to both the king and myself. Still he persisted, until,
+finding it hopeless, he spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at
+least two days. N'yamgundu, however, very prudently told him he should
+obey his orders, which were to take me on as fast as he could. I then
+gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for himself and all his family round,
+which made Maula slink further away from me than ever.
+
+The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined the
+sides and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I could not get
+a shot, for the grasses being double the height of myself, afforded them
+means of dashing out of view as soon as seen, and the rustling noise
+made whilst I followed them kept them on the alert. At night a hyena
+came into my hut, and carried off one of my goats that was tied to a log
+between two of my sleeping men.
+
+During the next march, after passing some of the most beautifully-wooded
+dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the right of the road, draining,
+as I fancied, into the Victoria Lake, I met with a party of the king's
+gamekeepers, staking their nets all along the side of a hill, hoping
+to catch antelopes by driving the covers with dogs and men. Farther
+on, also, I came on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from
+Mtesa to Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's
+return for the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to him. It
+was in this way that great kings sent "letters" to one another.
+
+Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango river,
+a broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-thirds of which
+was bridged over. Until now I did not feel sure where the various
+rush-drains I had been crossing since leaving the Katonga valley all
+went to, but here my mind was made up, for I found a large volume of
+water going to the northwards. I took off my clothes at the end of the
+bridge and jumped into the stream, which I found was twelve yards or so
+broad, and deeper than my height. I was delighted beyond measure at this
+very surprising fact, that I was indeed on the northern slopes of the
+continent, and had, to all appearance, found one of the branches of the
+Nile's exit from the N'yanza. I drew Bombay's attention to the current;
+and, collecting all the men of the country, inquired of them where the
+river sprang from. Some of them said, in the hills to the southward; but
+most of them said, from the lake. I argued the point with them; for I
+felt quite sure so large a body of flowing water could not be collected
+together in any place but the lake. They then all agreed to this view,
+and further assured me it went to Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where it
+joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile.
+
+Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu--the
+great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his "children"--my
+enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with wire,--altogether, a
+collection of one hundred souls. They had been here a month waiting for
+leave to approach the king's palace. Not a villager was to be seen for
+miles round; not a plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a
+sweet potato to be found in the ground. The whole of the provisions
+of this beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply
+because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry. This was alarming,
+for I feared I should be served the same trick, especially as all the
+people said this kind of treatment was a mere matter of custom which
+those great kings demanded as a respect due to their dignity; and Bombay
+added, with laughter, they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come
+when in the distance, but when they have got you in their power they
+become haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose
+on your mind the great consequence which they affect before their own
+people.
+
+Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I must
+wait for leave to approach the palace. He wished to have a look at the
+presents I had brought for Mtesa. I declined to gratify it, taking my
+stand on my dignity; there was no occasion for any distrust on such a
+trifling matter as that, for I was not a merchant who sought for gain,
+but had come, at great expense, to see the king of this region. I
+begged, however, he would go as fast as possible to announce my arrival,
+explain my motive for coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I
+had left my brother Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for
+want of a friend to talk to, almost intolerable. It was not the custom
+of my country for great men to consort with servants, and until I saw
+him, and made friends, I should not be happy. I had a great deal to tell
+him about, as he was the father of the Nile, which river drained
+the N'yanza down to my country to the northward. With this message
+N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as possible.
+
+Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of red
+blanket to make up military jackets. I then instructed them how to form
+a guard of honour when I went to the palace, and taught Bombay the way
+Nazirs was presented at courts in India. Altogether we made a good show.
+When this was concluded I went with Nasib up a hill, from which we could
+see the lake on one side, and on the other a large range of huts said
+to belong to the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's
+brothers, who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne.
+
+I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the Mwerango
+river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its origin, whether
+or not it came off those smaller lakes I had seen on the road the day
+before I crossed the river; but no one would listen to my project. They
+all said I must have the king's sanction first, else people, from not
+knowing my object, would accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would
+tell their king so. They still all maintained that the river did come
+out of the lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit
+the spot, then they would go and show it me. I gave way, thinking it
+prudent to do so, but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to see it
+in boats on his voyage from Karague. There were not guinea-fowls to be
+found here, nor a fowl, in any of the huts, so I requested Rozaro to
+hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him to send me something to eat. He simply
+laughed at my request, and said I did not know what I was doing. It
+would be as much as his life was worth to go one yard in advance of this
+until the king's leave was obtained. I said, rather than be starved to
+death in this ignominious manner, I would return to Karague; to which he
+replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you got to do that? Do you suppose
+you can do as you like in this country?"
+
+Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of smirks
+and smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in company with his
+"children," set to n'yanzigging, according to the form of that state
+ceremonial already described. [17] In his excitement he was hardly able
+to say all he had to communicate. Bit by bit, however, I learned that he
+first went to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting
+to the Murchison Creek, he followed him there. The king for a long
+while would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being assured, he
+danced with delight, and swore he would not taste food until he had
+seen me. "Oh," he said, over and over again and again, according to my
+informer, "can this be true? Can the white man have come all this way to
+see me? What a strong man he must be too, to come so quickly! Here are
+seven cows, four of them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you
+will give him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him
+so quickly. Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am more
+delighted at the prospect of seeing him than he can be to see me. There
+is no place here fit for his reception. I was on a pilgrimage which
+would have kept me here seven days longer but as I am so impatient to
+see him, I will go off to my palace at once, and will send word for him
+to advance as soon as I arrive there."
+
+About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were to come
+along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered it. He would
+not taste food until he saw me, so that everybody might know what great
+respect he felt for me. In the meanwhile, however, he wished for some
+gunpowder. I packed the pages off as fast as I could with some, and
+tried myself to follow, but my men were all either sick or out foraging,
+and therefore we could not get under way until the evening. After going
+a certain distance, we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth
+even than the Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so
+deep I had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms.
+It flowed into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at all.
+This rush-drain, all the natives assured me, rose in the hills to
+the southward--not in the lake, as the Mwerango did--and it was never
+bridged over like that river, because it was always fordable. This
+account seemed to me reasonable; for though so much broader in its bed
+than the Mwerango, it had no central, deep-flowing current.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda
+
+Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of
+Uganda--The Ceremonial--African Diplomacy and Dignity--Feats with the
+Rifle--Cruelty, and Wastefulness of Life--The Pages--The Queen-Dowager
+of Uganda--Her Court Reception--I negotiate for a Palace--Conversations
+with the King and Queen--The Queen's grand Entertainment--Royal
+Dissipation.
+
+To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of holding
+a levee in my honour. I prepared for my first presentation at court,
+attired in my best, though in it I cut a poor figure in comparison with
+the display of the dressy Waganda. They wore neat bark cloaks resembling
+the best yellow corduroy cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with
+starch, and over that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope
+skins, which I observed were sewn together as well as any English
+glovers could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally,
+were abrus turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks,
+stick-charms, seeds, beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms, and
+ankles they wore other charms of wood, or small horns stuffed with magic
+powder, and fastened on by strings generally covered with snake-skin.
+N'yamgundu and Maula demanded, as their official privilege, a first
+peep; and this being refused, they tried to persuade me that the
+articles comprising the present required to be covered with chintz, for
+it was considered indecorous to offer anything to his majesty in a naked
+state. This little interruption over, the articles enumerated below [18]
+were conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:--With N'yamgundu,
+Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the Union-Jack carried by
+the kirangozi guide led the way, followed by twelve men as a guard of
+honour, dressed in red flannel cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped,
+with fixed bayonets; whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each
+carrying some article as a present.
+
+On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-struck
+at such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of astonishment, some
+with both hands at their mouths, and others clasping their heads with
+their hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which may be translated "Beautiful!
+beautiful!" I thought myself everything was going on as well as could
+be wished; but before entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my
+disagreeable surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering,
+which consisted of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to
+lead the procession, and take precedence of me. There was something
+specially aggravating in this precedence; for it will be remembered that
+these very brass wires which they saw, I had myself intended for Mtesa,
+that they were taken from me by Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it
+would never do, without remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded
+before my eyes in this fashion. My protests, however, had no effect upon
+the escorting Wakungu. Resolving to make them catch it, I walked along
+as if ruminating in anger up the broad high road into a cleared square,
+which divides Mtesa's domain on the south from his Kamraviona's, or
+commander-in-chief, on the north, and then turned into the court. The
+palace or entrance quite surprised me by its extraordinary dimensions,
+and the neatness with which it was kept. The whole brow and sides of the
+hill on which we stood were covered with gigantic grass huts, thatched
+as neatly as so many heads dressed by a London barber, and fenced all
+round with the tall yellow reeds of the common Uganda tiger-grass;
+whilst within the enclosure, the lines of huts were joined together, or
+partitioned off into courts, with walls of the same grass. It is here
+most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are kept, the rest being
+quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title of N'yamasore, or
+queen-dowager. They stood in little groups at the doors, looking at us,
+and evidently passing their own remarks, and enjoying their own jokes,
+on the triumphal procession. At each gate as we passed, officers on duty
+opened and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which are hung upon
+them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent silent, stealthy
+entrance.
+
+The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the unusual
+ceremonies that awaited me. There courtiers of high dignity stepped
+forward to greet me, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions.
+Men, women, bulls, dogs, and goats, were led about by strings; cocks and
+hens were carried in men's arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans,
+rushed about, conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their
+swiftness, every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him lest his
+naked legs might by accident be shown.
+
+This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken
+possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and singing
+on large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira, accompanied by
+harmonicons. By the chief officers in waiting, however, who thought fit
+to treat us like Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground
+outside in the sun with my servants. Now, I had made up my mind never to
+sit upon the ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor
+to make my obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England,
+though the Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied
+with the manners of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my
+social position at once, I should be treated with contempt during the
+remainder of my visit, and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed
+of appearing rather as a prince than a trader, for the purpose of
+better gaining the confidence of the king. To avert over-hastiness,
+however--for my servants began to be alarmed as I demurred against doing
+as I was bid--I allowed five minutes to the court to give me a proper
+reception, saying, if it were not conceded I would then walk away.
+
+Nothing, however, was done. My own men, knowing me, feared for me, as
+they did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I carried out my
+threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at what seemed little less
+than blasphemy, stood still as posts. The affair ended by my walking
+straight away home, giving Bombay orders to leave the present on the
+ground, and to follow me.
+
+Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he
+chooses to attend court--a ceremony which rarely happens--intelligence
+of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in an instant. He first,
+it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-room to follow me, but, finding
+I was walking fast, and had gone far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu
+running after me. Poor creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their
+knees, and implored I would return at once, for the king had not tasted
+food, and would not until he saw me. I felt grieved at their touching
+appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply replied
+by patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if anything all the
+faster.
+
+On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through with
+perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my grievances. Suwarora's
+hongo was turned out of court, and, if I desired it, I might bring
+my own chair with me, for he was very anxious to show me great
+respect--although such a seat was exclusively the attribute of the king,
+no one else in Uganda daring to sit on an artificial seat.
+
+My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe, and
+returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora. After
+returning to the second tier of huts from which I had retired, everybody
+appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of excitement, not knowing
+what to make out of so unprecedented an exhibition of temper. In the
+most polite manner, the officers in waiting begged me to be seated on
+my iron stool, which I had brought with me, whilst others hurried in to
+announce my arrival. But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense,
+when a band of music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired
+goat-skins, passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a fair,
+and playing on reed instruments worked over with pretty beads in various
+patters, from which depended leopard-cat skins--the time being regulated
+by the beating of long hand-drums.
+
+The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in the
+statehut of the third tier. I advanced, hat in hand, with my guard
+of honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their turn were
+followed by the bearers carrying the present. I did not walk straight up
+to him as if to shake hands, but went outside the ranks of a three-sided
+square of squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins;
+some few of whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the
+waist, the sign of royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in
+the glaring sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon
+which set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
+ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight
+I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of
+twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread upon a square platform
+of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed
+in a new mbugu. The hair of his head was cut short, excepting on the
+top, where it was combed up into a high ridge, running from stem to
+stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was a very neat ornament--a large
+ring, of beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by
+their various colours. On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
+devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string covered with
+snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he had alternate brass and
+copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to the calf, a stocking
+of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and elegant in its
+way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his "getting up."
+For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of
+gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his large
+mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of
+which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-cups,
+administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his sisters
+and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman--the Uganda
+cognisance--were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with
+whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a
+band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described.
+
+I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters,
+where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper
+kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with
+two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour
+worked into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation,
+but knew not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift
+his head from fear of being accused of eyeing the women; so the king
+and myself sat staring at one another for full an hour--I mute, but he
+pointing and remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard
+and general appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted, the
+umbrella shut and opened, and the guards face about and show off their
+red cloaks--for such wonders had never been seen in Uganda.
+
+Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask me if I
+had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full one hour," I
+was glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his dog, and walk
+unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the fourth tier of huts;
+for this being a pure levee day, no business was transacted. The king's
+gait in retiring was intended to be very majestic, but did not succeed
+in conveying to me that impression. It was the traditional walk of his
+race, founded on the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the
+legs, intended to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to
+me only to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask
+Bombay if anything serious was the matter with the royal person.
+
+I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity; for I was
+told the state secret, that the king had retired to break his fast and
+eat for the first time since hearing of my arrival; but the repast was
+no sooner over than he prepared for the second act, to show off his
+splendour, and I was invited in, with all my men, to the exclusion of
+all his own officers save my two guides. Entering as before, I found him
+standing on a red blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut,
+talking and laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his
+admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two groups,
+were dressed in mew mbugus. My men dared not advance upright, nor look
+upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered heads and averted eyes, came
+cringing after me. Unconscious myself, I gave loud and impatient orders
+to my guard, rebuking them for moving like frightened geese, and, with
+hat in hand, stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap.
+
+Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to which
+Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty, replied by
+saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen coming up the
+Nile to Gani and Kidi. The king acknowledged the truthfulness of their
+story, saying he had heard the same himself; and both Wakungu, as is
+the custom in Uganda, thanked their lord in a very enthusiastic manner,
+kneeling on the ground--for no one can stand in the presence of his
+majesty--in an attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they
+repeated the words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc.,
+etc., for a considerable time; when, thinking they had done enough of
+this, and heated with the exertion, they threw themselves flat upon
+their stomachs, and, floundering about like fish on land, repeated the
+same words over again and again, and rose doing the same, with their
+faces covered with earth; for majesty in Uganda is never satisfied
+till subjects have grovelled before it like the most abject worms. This
+conversation over, after gazing at me, and chatting with his women for
+a considerable time, the second scene ended. The third scene was more
+easily arranged, for the day was fast declining. He simply moved his
+train of women to another hut, where, after seating himself upon his
+throne, with his women around him, he invited me to approach the nearest
+limits of propriety, and to sit as before. Again he asked me if I had
+seen him--evidently desirous of indulging in his regal pride; so I made
+the most of the opportunity thus afforded me of opening a conversation
+by telling him of those grand reports I had formerly heard about him,
+which induced me to come all his way to see him, and the trouble it had
+cost me to reach the object of my desire; at the same time taking a gold
+ring from off my finger, and presenting it to him, I said, "This is a
+small token of friendship; if you will inspect it, it is made after
+the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being the king of metals, gold, is in
+every respect appropriate to your illustrious race."
+
+He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you say
+if I showed you a road by which you might reach your home in one month?"
+Now everything had to be told to Bombay, then to Nasib, my Kiganda
+interpreter, and then to either Maula or N'yamgundu, before it was
+delivered to the king, for it was considered indecorous to transmit
+any message to his majesty excepting through the medium of one of his
+officers. Hence I could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are
+rapid and impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting
+he had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said, "What
+guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with." I wished still
+to answer the first question first, as I knew he referred to the direct
+line to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was anxious, without delay, to
+open the subject of Petherick and Grant; but no one dared to deliver
+my statement. Much disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best
+shooting-gun in the world--Whitworth's rifle--which I begged he would
+accept, with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would
+lay them upon a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country when
+visiting sultans." He assented, sent all his women away, and had an
+mbugu spread for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying my order, first
+spread a red blanket, and then opened each article one after the other,
+when Nasib, according to the usage already mentioned, smoothed them down
+with his dirty hands, or rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed
+them to the king to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them.
+Mtesa appeared quite confused with the various wonders as he handled
+them, made silly remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect child,
+until it was quite dark. Torches were then lit, and guns, pistols,
+powder, boxes, tools, beads--the whole collection, in short--were tossed
+together topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and carried away by
+the pages. Mtesa now said, "It is late, and time to break up; what
+provisions would you wish to have?" I said, "A little of everything,
+but no one thing constantly." "And would you like to see me to-morrow?"
+"Yes, every day." "Then you can't to-morrow, for I have business; but
+the next day come if you like. You can now go away, and here are six
+pots of plantain-wine for you; my men will search for food to-morrow."
+
+21st.--In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in twenty cows
+and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message from their king, to
+the effect that I had pleased him much, and he hoped I would accept
+these few "chickens" until he could send more,--when both Maula and
+N'yamgundu, charmed with their success in having brought a welcome guest
+to Uganda, never ceased showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in
+having gained the countenance of their king. The rain falling was
+considered at court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad
+with delight. Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and Grant,
+I at once started off the Wakungu to thank him for the present, and
+to beg pardon for my apparent rudeness of yesterday, at the same time
+requesting I might have an early interview with his majesty, as I had
+much of importance to communicate; but the solemn court formalities
+which these African kings affect as much as Oriental emperors, precluded
+my message from reaching the king. I heard, however, that he had spent
+the day receiving Suwarora's hongo of wire, and that the officer who
+brought them was made to sit in an empty court, whilst the king sat
+behind a screen, never deigning to show his majestic person. I was told,
+too, that he opened conversation by demanding to know how it happened
+that Suwarora became possessed of the wires, for they were made by
+the white men to be given to himself, and Suwarora must therefore have
+robbed me of them; and it was by such practices he, Mtesa, never could
+see any visitors. The officer's reply was, Suwarora would not show the
+white men any respect, because they were wizards would did not sleep in
+houses at night, but flew up to the tops of hills, and practised sorcery
+of every abominable kind. The king to this retorted, in a truly African
+fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in this white man; and if
+he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent him on to me." At
+night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I desired his
+friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six with what I had
+given him, for he intended visiting his relations the following morning.
+I sent three, feeling that nothing would be lost by being "open-handed."
+
+22d.--To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing the
+beautiful things given him by the white man--a clear proof that he was
+much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his father nor any of his
+forefathers had been so recognised and distinguished by any "sign" as
+a rightful inheritor to the Uganda throne: an anti-Christian
+interpretation of omens, as rife in these dark regions now as it was
+in the time of King Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were
+returned, and I was so pleased with the young king's promptitude and
+honesty, I begged he would accept them.
+
+23d.--At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I went,
+with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to sit waiting
+in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-chief and other
+high officers before he was ready to see me. During this time Wasoga
+minstrels, playing on tambira, and accompanied by boys playing on a
+harmonicon, kept us amused; and a small page, with a large bundle of
+grass, came to me and said, "The king hopes you won't be offended if
+required to sit on it before him; for no person in Uganda, however high
+in office, is ever allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground,
+nor can anybody but himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all that
+his throne is made of. The first day he only allowed you to sit on your
+stool to appease your wrath."
+
+On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position was so
+handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the court sitting
+much as it was on the first day's interview, only that the number of
+squatting Wakungu was much diminished; and the king, instead of wearing
+his ten brass and copper rings, had my gold one on his third finger.
+This day, however, was cut out for business, as, in addition to
+the assemblage of officers, there were women, cows, goats, fowls,
+confiscations, baskets of fish, baskets of small antelopes, porcupines,
+and curious rats caught by his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc.,
+etc., made by his linen-drapers, coloured earths and sticks by his
+magician, all ready for presentation; but, as rain fell, the court
+broke up, and I had nothing for it but to walk about under my umbrella,
+indulging in angry reflections against the haughty king for not inviting
+me into his hut.
+
+When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was found
+sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of a black bull
+placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off, was placed alongside,
+whilst four living cows walked about the court.
+
+I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as possible; but
+having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the revolving pistol I had
+given him, and shot all four in a second of time; but as the last one,
+only wounded, turned sharply upon me, I gave him the fifth and settled
+him. Great applause followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were
+given to my men. The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him
+with his own hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go
+out and shoot a man in the outer court; which was no sooner accomplished
+than the little urchin returned to announce his success, with a look of
+glee such as one would see in the face of a boy who had robbed a bird's
+nest, caught a trout, or done any other boyish trick. The king said to
+him, "And did you do it well?" "Oh, yes, capitally." He spoke the truth,
+no doubt, for he dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair
+created hardly any interest. I never heard, and there appeared no
+curiosity to know, what individual human being the urchin had deprived
+of life.
+
+The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when the king
+showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for the inspiring
+medicine which he had before applied for through the mystic stick. The
+day was now gone, so torches were lit, and we were ordered to go, though
+as yet I had not been able to speak one word I wished to impart about
+Petherick and Grant; for my interpreters were so afraid of the king they
+dared not open their mouths until they were spoken to. The king was
+now rising to go, when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be
+lost, I said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post
+to Grant, and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as Rumanika's
+palace, for him, for he is totally unable to walk." I thus attracted his
+notice, though he did not understand one word I uttered. The result was,
+that he waited for the interpretation, and replied that a post would
+be no use, for no one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the
+message; he would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika
+would not consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the
+Little Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda impetuosity,
+he walked away without taking a word from me in exchange.
+
+24th.--Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I would
+send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. This was just
+what I wanted. It had struck me that personal conferences with me so
+roused the excitable king, that there was no bringing plain matters of
+business home to him; so, detaching seven men with Bombay, I told him,
+before shooting, to be sure and elicit the matter I wanted--which was,
+to excite the king's cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores
+with two white men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would
+furnish some guides to accompany my men; and further, as Grant could not
+walk, I wished boats sent for him, at least as far as the ferry on the
+Kitangule, to which place Rumanika, at any rate, would slip him down in
+canoes. At once, on arriving, Mtesa admitted the men, and ordered them
+to shoot at some cows; but Bombay, obeying my orders to first have
+his talk out, said, No--before he could shoot he must obey master and
+deliver his message; which no sooner was told than the king, in a hurry,
+excited by the prospects of sport, impatiently said, "Very good; I will
+send men either by water or overland through Kidi, [19] just as your
+master likes; only some of his men had better go with mine: but now
+shoot cows, shoot cows; for I want to see how the Waguana shoot." They
+shot seven, and all were given to them when they were dismissed. In the
+evening the pages came to ask me if I would like to shoot kites in
+the palace with their king; but I declined shooting anything less than
+elephants, rhinoceros, or buffaloes; and even for these I would not go
+out unless the king went with me;--a dodge I conceived would tend
+more than any other to bring us together, and so break through those
+ceremonial restraints of the court, which at present were stopping all
+pans of progression.
+
+25th.--The king invited me to shoot with him--really buffaloes--close to
+the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a hurry, without being
+fully instructed, I declined, on the plea that I had always been gulled
+and kept waiting or treated with incivility, for hours before I obtained
+an interview; and as I did not wish to have any more ruptures in the
+palace, I proposed Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my
+reception on the morrow--as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed. The
+pages dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent
+another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he hoped
+I would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines with me, for
+he himself felt pain. That this second message was a forged one I had no
+doubt, for the boys had not been long enough gone; still, I packed up my
+medicines and went, leaving the onus, should any accident happen, upon
+the mischievous story-bearers.
+
+As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was not
+ready to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the officers
+in waiting until he might appear. I found it necessary to fly at once
+into a rage, called the pages a set of deceiving young blackguards,
+turned upon my heel, and walked straight back through the courts,
+intending to leave the palace. Everybody was alarmed; information of my
+retreat at once reached the king, and he sent his Wakungu to prevent my
+egress. These officers passed me, as I was walking hurriedly along under
+my umbrella, in the last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of
+me. This was too much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in
+every language I knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as they
+had shut it at once, and that, too, before my face, I would never leave
+the spot I stood upon alive. Terror-stricken, the Wakungu fell on their
+knees before me, doing as they were bid; and, to please them, I returned
+at once, and went up to the king, who, now sitting on his throne, asked
+the officers how they had managed to entice me back; to which they all
+replied in a breath, n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid--he
+was so terrible! but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate."
+"How? what gate? tell us all about it." And when the whole story was
+fully narrated, the matter was thought a good joke. After pausing a
+little, I asked the king what ailed him, for I was sorry to hear he had
+been sick; but instead of replying, he shook his head, as much as to
+say, I had put a very uncouth question to his majesty--and ordered some
+men to shoot cows.
+
+Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is considered
+royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until, apparently disappointed
+at my indifference, he asked what the box I had brought contained. On
+being told it was the medicine he desired, he asked me to draw near, and
+sent his courtiers away. When only the interpreters and one confidential
+officer were left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply
+the medicine without its touching the afflicted part. To give him
+confidence in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him if he
+knew what gave it action; and on his replying in the negative, I have
+him an anatomical lecture, which so pleased him, he at once consented to
+be operated on, and I applied a blister accordingly. The whole operation
+was rather ridiculous; for the blister, after being applied, had to be
+rubbed in turn on the hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show
+there was no evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself,
+is the right time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then
+considered a most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man courts
+the favour of a word with his king, and adores him as a deity, and he in
+turn makes himself as distance as he can, to give greater effect to his
+exalted position. The matter, however, was merely deferred: for I no
+sooner told him my plans for communicating quickly with Petherick and
+Grant, than, after saying he desired their coming even more than myself,
+he promised to arrange everything on the morrow.
+
+26th.--In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found the
+blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which Bombay called
+the malady, and so delighted the king amazingly. A basket of fruit, like
+Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we ate them together, holding a
+discussion about Grant and Petherick, which ended by the king promising
+to send an officer by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my
+men, via Usoga and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should
+go in disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears;
+when, with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty sheets of
+the former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish strung on a stick
+in shape of a shield.
+
+27th.--At last something was done. One Uganda officer and one Kidi
+guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon yesterday, when
+I detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave them letters and maps
+addressed to Petherick; and giving the officers a load of Mtende to
+pay their hotel bills on the way, I gave them, at the same time, strict
+orders to keep by the Nile; then, having dismissed them, I called on the
+king to make arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence
+in Uganda was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the
+palace, in an unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. It did
+not become my dignity to live in houses appropriated to persons in the
+rank of servants, which I considered the ivory merchants to be; and as
+I had come only to see him and the high officers of Uganda, not seeking
+for ivory or slaves, I begged he would change my place of residence to
+the west end, when I also trusted his officers would not be ashamed
+to visit me, as appeared to be the case at present. Silence being the
+provoking resort of the king, when he did not know exactly what to say,
+he made no answer to my appeal, but instead, he began a discourse on
+geography, and then desired me to call upon his mother, N'yamasore, at
+her palace Masorisori, vulgarly called Soli Soli, for she also required
+medicine; and, moreover, I was cautioned that for the future the
+Uganda court etiquette required I should attend on the king two days in
+succession, and every third day on his mother the queen-dowager, as such
+were their respective rights.
+
+Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been able
+to call upon anybody but the king himself. I had not been able to send
+presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one, except the cockaded
+pages, by the king's order, visited me; neither was anybody permitted
+to sell me provisions, so that my men had to feed themselves by taking
+anything they chose from certain gardens pointed out by the king's
+officers, or by seizing pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda
+carrying towards the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the
+royal policy, in order that the king might have the full fleecing of his
+visitors.
+
+To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening visit,
+I too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight brass and copper
+wire, thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of diminutive beads, and sixteen
+cubits of chintz, a small guard, and my throne of royal grass. The
+palace to be visited lay half a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad
+to it was forbidden me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the
+king's gate without going in. So after winding through back-gardens, the
+slums of Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her majesty's,
+where everything looked like the royal palace on a miniature scale. A
+large cleared space divided the queen's residence from her Kamraviona's.
+The outer enclosures and courts were fenced with tiger-grass; and the
+huts, though neither so numerous nor so large, were constructed after
+the same fashion as the king's. Guards also kept the doors, on which
+large bells were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched
+the throne-rooms. All the huts were full of women, save those kept as
+waiting-rooms; where drums and harmonicons were played for amusement. On
+first entering, I was required to sit in a waiting-hut till my arrival
+was announced; but that did not take long, as the queen was prepared to
+receive me; and being of a more affable disposition than her son, she
+held rather a levee of amusement than a stiff court of show. I entered
+the throne-hut as the gate of that court was thrown open, with my hat
+off, but umbrella held over my head, and walked straight towards her
+till ordered to sit upon my bundle of grass.
+
+Her majesty--fat, fair, and forty-five--was sitting, plainly garbed in
+mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a curtain of mbugu,
+her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark material; the only
+ornaments on her person being an abrus necklace, and a piece of mbugu
+tied round her head, whilst a folding looking-glass, much the worse for
+wear, stood open by her side. An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on
+the top, charged with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed
+before the entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or
+devil-drivers, fantastically dressed, as before described, and a mass of
+other women, formed the company. For a short while we sat at a distance,
+exchanging inquiring glances at one another, when the women were
+dismissed, and a band of music, with a court full of Wakungu, was
+ordered in to change the scene. I also got orders to draw near and sit
+fronting her within the hut. Pombe, the best in Uganda, was then drunk
+by the queen, and handed to me and to all the high officers about her,
+when she smoked her pipe, and bade me smoke mine. The musicians, dressed
+in long-haired Usoga goat-skins, were now ordered to strike up, which
+they did, with their bodies swaying or dancing like bears in a fair.
+Different drums were then beat, and I was asked if I could distinguish
+their different tones.
+
+The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting, whilst
+she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole, and came back
+again for us to admire her, which was no sooner done to her heart's
+content, than a second time, by her order, the court was cleared, and,
+when only three or four confidential Wakungu were left, she took up a
+small faggot of well-trimmed sticks, and, selecting three, told me she
+had three complains. "This stick," she says, "represents my stomach,
+which gives me much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes
+shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for I get
+constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and they are not
+pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her was a common widow's
+complaint, and could only be cured by her majesty making up her mind
+to marry a second time; but before I could advise for the bodily
+complaints, it would be necessary for me to see her tongue, feel her
+pulse, and perhaps, also, her sides. Hearing this, the Wakungu said,
+"Oh, that can never be allowed without the sanction of the king"; but
+the queen, rising in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking
+advice from a mere stripling, and submitted herself for examination.
+
+I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the Wakungu
+to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and gave orders for
+them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe and food until I saw
+her again. My game was now advancing, for I found through her I should
+get the key to an influence that might bear on the king, and was much
+pleased to hear her express herself delighted with me for everything I
+had done except stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great
+pombe-drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence.
+
+The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to inspect
+the honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles were no sooner
+presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual formalities of stroking to
+insure their purity, than she, boiling with pleasure, showed them all to
+her officers, who declared, with a voice of most exquisite triumph,
+that she was indeed the most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good
+taste, after saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she
+gave me, in return, a beautifully-worked pombe sucking-pipe, which was
+acknowledged by every one to be the greatest honour she could pay me.
+
+Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my desire,
+a number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe hair wound round
+with thin iron or copper wire, and worn as anklets; and crowned with
+all sundry pots of pombe, a cow, and a bundle of dried fish, of the
+description given in the woodcut, called by my men Samaki Kambari. This
+business over, she begged me to show her my picture-books, and was so
+amused with them that she ordered her sorceresses and all the other
+women in again to inspect them with her. Then began a warm and
+complimentary conversation, which ended by an inspection of my rings and
+all the contents of my pockets, as well as of my watch, which she called
+Lubari--a term equivalent to a place of worship, the object of worship
+itself, or the iron horn or magic pan. Still she said I had not yet
+satisfied her; I must return again two days hence, for she like me
+much--excessively--she could not say how much; but now the day was gone,
+I might go. With this queer kind of adieu she rose and walked away,
+leaving me with my servants to carry the royal present home.
+
+28th.--My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some scheme to
+obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to maintain my dignity,
+and so gain superior influence in the court, but also that I might have
+a better insight into the manners and customs of these strange people. I
+was not sorry to find the king attempting to draw me to court, daily
+to sit in attendance on him as his officers were obliged to do all day
+long, in order that he might always have a full court or escort whenever
+by chance he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening for
+asserting my proper position.
+
+Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this morning I
+sent Bombay with some men to say that although I was desirous of
+seeing him daily, I could not so expose myself to the sun. In all other
+countries I received, as my right, a palace to live in when I called
+on the king of my country, and unless he gave one now I should feel
+slighted; moreover, I should like a hut in the same enclosure as
+himself, when I could sit and converse with him constantly, and teach
+him the use of the things I had given him. By Bombay's account, the king
+was much struck with the force of my humble request, and replied that he
+should like to have Bana, meaning myself, ever by his side, but his
+huts were all full of women, and therefore it could not be managed; if,
+however, Bana would but have patience for a while, a hut should be built
+for him in the environs, which would be a mark of distinction he
+had never paid to any visitor before. Then changing the subject by
+inspecting my men, he fell so much in love with their little red "fez"
+caps, that he sent off his pages to beg me for a specimen, and, on
+finding them sent by the boys, he remarked, with warm approbation, how
+generous I was in supplying his wishes, and then, turning to Bombay,
+wished to know what sort of return-presents would please me best.
+Bombay, already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man in
+his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves, would
+only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which he could take
+to his own country as a specimen of the manufactures of Uganda, and a
+pleasing recollection of his visit to the king."
+
+"Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I satisfy
+him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took all this
+country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three men with one stab.
+
+"But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana would
+like to go out with me shooting?" "Oh yes, he is a most wonderful
+sportsman--shoots elephants and buffaloes, and birds on the wing. He
+would like to go out on a shooting excursion and teach you the way."
+
+Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king made
+centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for their good
+service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable guest. This delighted
+them so much that as soon as they could they came back to my camp, threw
+themselves at my feet, and n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their
+fortunes, and begged, as a great man, I would lend them some cows to
+present to the king as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown
+them. The cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not
+go back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with their
+presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on myself, and was
+certainly the highest compliment their king could have paid me, I would
+give them each a wire to make their salaam good.
+
+This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their drums,
+serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my utter
+surprise, an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp with the
+commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I would accept her
+"to carry my water"; with this trifling addition, that in case I did not
+think her pretty enough, he hoped I would not hesitate to select which I
+liked from ten others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that
+purpose, were then waiting in his palace.
+
+Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now confess I
+felt in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so offends as rejecting
+an offer at once, so I kept her for the time being, intending in the
+morning to send her back with a string of blue beads on her neck; but
+during the night she relieved me of my anxieties by running away, which
+Bombay said was no wonder, for she had obviously been seized as part of
+some confiscated estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of
+her friends.
+
+To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a quantity
+of plantains. This was in consequence of my complaining that the king's
+orders to my men to feed themselves at others' expense was virtually
+making them a pack of thieves.
+
+1st.--I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February, reporting
+Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January, escorted by Kamrasi's
+men on their return, and a large party of Rumanika's bearing presents
+as a letter from their king; whilst Grant himself hoped to leave Karague
+before the end of the month. I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to
+ask after her health, beg for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say
+I should have gone myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I
+cannot go backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an
+elephant to ride upon. She begged I would come next morning. A wonderful
+report came that the king put two tops of powder into his Whitworth
+rifle to shoot a cow, and the bullet not only passed through the cow,
+but through the court fence, then through the centre of a woman, and,
+after passing the outer fence, flew whizzing along no one knew where.
+
+2d.--Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once, scolding me
+severely for not having come or sent my men to see her after she had
+taken the pills. She said they did her no good, and prevailed on me to
+give her another prescription. Then sending her servant for a bag full
+of drinking-gourds, she made me select six of the best, and begged
+for my watch. That, of course, I could not part with; but I took the
+opportunity of telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only
+far away from everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity. I came
+to Uganda to see the king and queen, because the Arabs said they were
+always treated with great respect; but now I could perceive those Arabs
+did not know what true respect means. Being poor men, they thought much
+of a cow or goat given gratis, and were content to live in any hovels.
+Such, I must inform her, was not my case. I could neither sit in the sun
+nor live in a poor man's hut. When I rose to leave for breakfast, she
+requested me to stop, but I declined, and walked away. I saw, however,
+there was something wrong; for Maula, always ordered to be in attendance
+when anybody visits, was retained by her order to answer why I would not
+stay with her longer. If I wanted food or pombe, there was plenty of it
+in her palace, and her cooks were the cleverest in the world; she hoped
+I would return to see her in the morning.
+
+3d.--Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could not get a
+satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to ascertain why I
+had given him good guns and many pretty things which he did not know
+the use of, and yet I would not visit him to explain their several uses.
+N'yamgundu told him I lived too far off, and wanted a palace. After this
+I walked off to see N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some
+cooking-pots to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the
+queen with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints
+mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative language, I
+called a trifle for her servants.
+
+I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an Indian
+carpet, dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border, and a box,
+in shape of a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in divers patters with
+minute beads, by her side. Her councillors were in attendance; and
+in the yard a band of music, with many minor Wakungu squatting in a
+semicircle, completed her levee. Maula on my behalf opened conversation,
+in allusion to her yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to
+Mtesa for a palace, that I might be near enough both their majesties
+to pay them constant visits. She replied, in a good hearty manner, that
+indeed was a very proper request, which showed my good sense, and ought
+to have been complied with at once; but Mtesa was only a Kijana or
+stripling, and as she influenced all the government of the country,
+she would have it carried into effect. Compliments were now passed,
+my presents given and approved of; and the queen, thinking I must be
+hungry, for she wanted to eat herself, requested me to refresh myself in
+another hut. I complied, spread my bedding, and ordered in my breakfast;
+but as the hut was full of men, I suspended a Scotch plain, and quite
+eclipsed her mbugu curtain.
+
+Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent to know
+how many more blankets I had in my possession, and whether, if she asked
+for one, she would get it. She also desired to see my spoons, fork, and
+pipe--an English meerschaum, mounted with silver; so, after breakfast,
+I returned to see her, showed her the spoons and forks, and smoked my
+pipe, but told her I had no blankets left but what formed my bed. She
+appeared very happy and very well, did not say another word about the
+blankets, but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing,
+and smoking in concert with me.
+
+I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and had
+seen all colours of people, but wondered where she got her pipe from,
+for it was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion, with a long stick.
+Greatly tickled at the flattery, she said, "We hear men like yourself
+come to Amara from the other side, and drive cattle away." "The Gallas,
+or Abyssinians, who are tall and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do
+so, for they live not far off on the other side of Amara, but we
+never fight for such paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands
+when fighting, we allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the
+government of the country into our hands." She then said, "We hear you
+don't like the Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you."
+"Thank your majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to please
+Waganda ears; and turning the advantage of the project on her side, "You
+have indeed hit the right nail on the head. I do not like the Unyamuezi
+route, as you may imagine when I tell you I have lost so much property
+there by mere robbery of the people and their kings. The Waganda do not
+see me in a true light; but if they have patience for a year or two,
+until the Ukori road is open, and trade between our respective countries
+shall commence, they will then see the fruits of my advent; so much so,
+that every Mganda will say the first Uganda year dates from the arrival
+of the first Mzundu (white) visitor. As one coffee-seed sown brings
+forth fruit in plenty, so my coming here may be considered." All
+appreciated this speech, saying, "The white man, he even speaks
+beautifully! beautifully! beautifully! beautifully!" and, putting their
+hands to their mouths, they looked askance at me, nodding their admiring
+approval.
+
+The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became
+uproarious, laughing with all their might and main. Small bugu cups
+were not enough to keep up the excitement of the time, so a large wooden
+trough was placed before the queen and filled with liquor. If any was
+spilt, the Wakungu instantly fought over it, dabbing their noses on
+the ground, or grabbing it with their hands, that not one atom of the
+queen's favour might be lost; for everything must be adored that comes
+from royalty, whether by design or accident. The queen put her head
+to the trough and drank like a pig from it, and was followed by her
+ministers. The band, by order, then struck up a tune called the Milele,
+playing on a dozen reeds, ornamented with beads and cow-tips, and five
+drums, of various tones and sizes, keeping time. The musicians dancing
+with zest, were led by four bandmasters, also dancing, but with their
+backs turned to the company to show off their long, shaggy, goat-skin
+jackets, sometimes upright, at other times bending and on their heels,
+like the hornpipe-dancers or western countries.
+
+It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by way of
+flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe embraced, told
+her, Any woman, however ugly, would assume a goodly appearance if
+prettily dressed; upon which her gracious majesty immediately rose,
+retired to her toilet-hut, and soon returned attired in a common
+check cloth, and abrus tiara, a bead necklace, and with a folding
+looking-glass, when she sat, as before, and was handed a blown-glass
+cup of pombe, with a cork floating on the liquor, and a napkin mbugu
+covering the top, by a naked virgin. For her kind condescension in
+assuming plain raiment, everybody, of course, n'yanzigged. Next she
+ordered her slave girls to bring a large number of sambo (anklets), and
+begged me to select the best, for she liked me much. In vain I tried to
+refuse them: she had given more than enough for a keepsake before, and I
+was not hungry for property; still I had to choose some, or I would give
+offence. She then gave me a basket of tobacco, and a nest of hen eggs
+for her "son's" breakfast. When this was over, the Mukonderi, another
+dancing-tune, with instruments something like clarionets, was ordered;
+but it had scarcely been struck up, before a drenching rain, with strong
+wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not the playing--for none
+dared stop without an order; and the queen, instead of taking pity,
+laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her savage power as the
+unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down by the violence of the
+weather.
+
+When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her
+toilet-hut, and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper, when I,
+ashamed of having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her if she would
+allow me to present her with a little English "wool" to hang up instead
+of her mbugu curtain on cold days like this. Of course she could not
+decline, and a large double scarlet blanket was placed before her. "Oh,
+wonder of wonders!" exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths
+in both hands at a time--such a "pattern" had never been seen here
+before. It stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could
+reach--indeed it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one
+who brought such a treasure as this to Uddu. "And why not say Uganda?"
+I asked. "Because all this country is called Uddu. Uganda is personified
+by Mtesa; and no one can say he has seen Uganda until he has been
+presented to the king."
+
+As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not see
+enough of the Waganda--and as every one dressed so remarkably well, I
+could not discern the big men from the small; could she not issue some
+order by which they might call on me, as they did not dare do so without
+instruction, and then I, in turn, would call on them? Hearing this,
+she introduced me to her prime minister, chancellor of exchequer,
+women-keepers, hangmen, and cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that
+I might recognise them again if I met them on the road. All n'yanzigged
+for this great condescension, and said they were delighted with their
+guest; then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with my
+blanket, they asked if I could recognise it. Of course, said I, it is
+made in my country, of the same material, only of coarser quality, and
+everything of the same sort is made in Uzungu. Then, indeed, said the
+whole company, in one voice, we do like you, and your cloth too--but you
+most. I modestly bowed my head, and said their friendship was my chief
+desire.
+
+This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and councillors all
+became uproarious. The queen began to sing, and the councillors to join
+in chorus; then all sang and all drank, and drank and sang, till, in
+their heated excitement, they turned the palace into a pandemonium;
+still there was not noise enough, so the band and drums were called
+again, and tomfool--for Uganda, like the old European monarchies, always
+keeps a jester--was made to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice
+which he ever affects to maintain his character, and furnished with
+pombe when his throat was dry.
+
+Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the company,
+the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon their legs, seized
+their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear when visiting, swore the
+queen had lost her heart to me, and running into the yard, returned,
+charging and jabbering at the queen; retreated and returned again, as
+if they were going to put an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but
+really to show their devotion and true love to her. The queen professed
+to take this ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that
+she enjoyed it. I was not getting very tired of sitting on my low stool,
+and begged for leave to depart, but N'yamasore would not hear of it; she
+loved me a great deal too much to let me go away at this time of day,
+and forthwith ordered in more pombe. The same roystering scene was
+repeated; cups were too small, so the trough was employed; and the queen
+graced it by drinking, pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to
+the company.
+
+Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if my
+medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more to
+strengthen her. She said she could not answer that question just yet;
+for though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet she had seen no
+snake depart from her. I told her I would give her some strengthening
+medicine in the morning: for the present, however, I would take my
+leave, as the day was far gone, and the distance home very great; but
+though I dragged my body away, my heart would still remain here, for I
+loved her much.
+
+This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and then at
+her, and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved my hat, and
+said, "Kua heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam). On reaching home I found
+Maribu, a Mkungu, with a gang of men sent by Mtesa to fetch Grant from
+Kitangule by water. He would not take any of my men with him to fetch
+the kit from Karague, as Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find
+all the means of transport; so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told
+him to look sharp, else Grant would have passed the Kitangule before he
+arrived there. "Never mind," says Maribu, "I shall walk to the mouth
+of the Katonga, boat it to Sese island, where Mtesa keeps all his large
+vessels, and I shall be at Kitangule in a very short time."
+
+4th.--I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but the
+king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried up to him,
+and turned him back by force. He pleaded earnestly that I would flog
+him if he disobeyed my orders, but they would take all the
+responsibility--the king had ordered it; and then they, forging a lie,
+bade him run back as fast as he could, saying I wanted to see the king,
+but could not till his return. In this way poor Bombay returned to me
+half-drowned in perspiration. Just then another page hurried in with
+orders to bring me to the palace at once, for I had not been there these
+four days; and while I was preparing to express the proper amount of
+indignation at this unceremonious message, the last impudent page began
+rolling like a pig upon my mbugued or carpeted floor, till I stormed and
+swore I would turn him out unless he chose to behave more respectfully
+before my majesty, for I was no peddling merchant, as he had been
+accustomed to see, and would not stand it; moreover, I would not leave
+my hut at the summons of the king or anybody else, until I chose to do
+so.
+
+This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of his
+duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with Mtesa for
+turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do such a thing before,
+and I would never forgive the king until my medicines had been given to
+the queen. As for my going to the palace, it was out of the question,
+as I had been repeatedly before told the king, unless it pleased him to
+give me a fitting residence near himself. In order now that full weight
+should be given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to
+the king, in company with the boys, to give an account of all that had
+happened; and further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I could not
+go to see him constantly--that I was ashamed of my domicile--the sun was
+hot to walk in; and when I went to the palace, his officers in waiting
+always kept me waiting like a servant--a matter hurtful to my honour and
+dignity. It now rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody
+concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said he must
+stop in camp to look after Bana. Bombay no sooner arrived in the palace,
+and saw the king upon his throne, than Mtesa asked him why he came? "By
+the instructions of Bana," was his reply--"for Bana cannot walk in the
+sun; no white man of the sultan's breed can do so."
+
+Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply, and
+busied himself in another court. Bombay, still sitting, waited for hours
+till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say he had not delivered half
+my message; he had brought medicine for the queen, and as yet he had no
+reply for Bana. Either with haughty indifference, or else with injured
+pride at his not being able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent
+word, if medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her;
+and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace. Arrived there, he sent
+in to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a reply till
+nightfall, when, tired of his charge, he gave the quinine into
+N'yamgundu's hands for delivery, and returned home. Soon after,
+however, N'yamgundu also returned to say the queen would not take the
+dose to-day, but hoped I would administer it personally in the morning.
+
+Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court--evidently
+dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they all thought, a
+preference for the queen--Maula, more than tipsy, brought a Mkungu of
+some standing at court before me, contrary to all law--for as yet no
+Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever dared enter even the precincts
+of my camp. With a scowling, determined, hang-dog-looking countenance,
+he walked impudently into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the
+queen had given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended
+to insinuate there was something between the queen and me. Among his
+jokes were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with these sticks;
+if I wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my friends, she would give
+me twenty more sticks of that sort if I liked them; and, turning from
+verbal to practical jocularity, the dirty fellow took my common sucker
+out of the pot, inserted one of the queen's, and sucked at it himself,
+when I snatched and threw it away.
+
+Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I liked
+most--the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear me, Maula
+hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he does not care for
+Mtesa, and won't go to see him." The friend coaxingly responded, "Oh
+no; he likes Mtesa, and will go and see him too; won't you?" I declined,
+however, to answer from fear of mistake, as both interpreters were away.
+Still the two went on talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I
+loved the mother most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and
+asking me with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by
+chaff, and then, both tired, walked away--the friend advising me, next
+time I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers are indecent
+in the estimation of every Mganda.
+
+5th.--Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked like court
+intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that happened yesterday,
+both at the two courts and with Maula at home; and begged him to apply
+to the king for a meeting of five elders, that a proper understanding
+might be arrived at; but instead of doing as I desired, he got into a
+terrible fright, calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the matter in
+this way men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning blackguard
+Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his meaning; all he
+had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such favour at court,
+for the king and queen both equally loved me.
+
+N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr K'yengo; but,
+dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to him, he forged a
+falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home for six days, and begged
+for a wire to sacrifice to his church. I gave him what he wanted,
+and away he went. I then heard his servants had received orders to
+go overland for Grant and K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant,
+telling him to come sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he
+could carry, leaving what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika.
+
+At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the
+attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he wished to
+seize some refractory officer. I declined this abuse of my arms, and
+said I should first go and speak to the king on the subject myself,
+ordering the men on no account to go on such an errand; and saying this,
+I proceeded towards the palace, leaving instructions for those men who
+were not ready to follow. As the court messengers, however, objected to
+our going in detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry
+on to overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting
+to see my men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize the
+same officer, passed me, going to the place of attack, and, at the
+same time, I heard my men firing in a direction exactly opposite to the
+palace. I now saw I had been duped, and returned to my hut to see the
+issue. The boys had deceived us all. Bombay, tricked on the plea of
+their taking him by a short cut to the palace, suddenly found himself
+with all the men opposite the fenced gardens that had to be taken--the
+establishment of the recusant officer,--and the boys, knowing how eager
+all blacks are to loot, said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you
+can, sparing nothing--men, women, or children, mbugus or cowries,
+all alike--for it is the order of the king;" and in an instant my men
+surrounded the place, fired their guns, and rushed upon the inmates. One
+was speared forcing his way through the fence, but the rest were taken
+and brought triumphantly into my camp. It formed a strange sight in the
+establishment of an English gentleman, to see my men flushed with the
+excitement of their spoils, staggering under loads of mbugu, or leading
+children, mothers, goats, and dogs off in triumph to their respective
+huts. Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my orders, touching nothing;
+and when remonstrated with for having lead the men, he said he could not
+help it--the boys had deceived him in the same way as they had tricked
+me.
+
+It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in African
+diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be given up to Maula
+on behalf of the king, and threatening to discharge any of my men who
+dared retain one item of the property, I shut the door of my hut to do
+penance for two days, giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not
+even Bombay, should come near me; for the king had caused my men to
+sin--had disgraced their red cloth--and had inflicted on me a greater
+insult than I could bear. I was ashamed to show my face. Just as the
+door was closed, other pages from the king brought the Whitworth rifle
+to be cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no one dared approach me,
+and they went on their way again.
+
+6th.--I still continued to do penance. Bombay, by my orders, issued
+from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him all that had
+happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the orders for sending my
+men on a plundering mission had really emanated from himself, when the
+bothering pages came again, bringing a gun and knife to be mended. My
+door was found shut, so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and
+told him the king desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the
+morning. The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins
+might be forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him,
+sending his soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and without
+his sanction too. He is very angry about it, and wished to know if it
+was done by the king's orders." The boys said, "Nothing can be done
+without the king's orders." After further discussion, Bombay intimated
+that I wished the king to send me a party of five elderly officers to
+counsel with, and set all disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to
+the palace again; but the boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at
+court, only boys such as themselves. Bombay now wished to go with them
+before the king, to explain matters to him, and to give him all the red
+cloths of my men, which I took from them, because they defiled their
+uniform when plundering women and children; but the boys said the king
+was unapproachable just them, being engaged shooting cows before his
+women. He then wished the boys to carry the cloth; but they declined,
+saying it was contrary to orders for anybody to handle cloth, and they
+could not do it.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Continued Diplomatic Difficulties--Negro Chaffing--The King in a
+New Costume--Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court--My
+Residence Changed--Scenes at Court--The Kamraviona, or
+Commander-in-Chief--Quarrels--Confidential Communications with the
+King--Court Executions and Executioners--Another Day with the Queen.
+
+7th.--The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty capricious
+blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that if I did not
+stand up now, no one would ever be treated better hereafter. I sent
+Nasib to the queen, to explain why I had not been to see her. I desired
+to do so, because I admired her wisdom; but before I went I must first
+see the king, to provide against any insult being offered to me, such
+as befell Bombay when I sent him with medicine. Having despatched him,
+I repaired again to the palace. In the antechamber I found a number of
+Wakungu, as usual, lounging about on the ground, smoking, chatting,
+and drinking pombe, whilst Wasoga amused them singing and playing on
+lap-harps, and little boys kept time on the harmonicon.
+
+These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well trained to
+the duty; but their very lives depend upon their presenting themselves
+at court a certain number of months every year, no matter from what
+distant part of the country they have to come. If they failed, their
+estates would be confiscated, and their lives taken unless they could
+escape. I found a messenger who consented to tell the king of my desire
+to see him. He returned to say that the king was sleeping--a palpable
+falsehood. In a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants,
+Maula and Uledi, behind to make explanations. They saw the king, who
+simply asked, "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came, but went
+off again, he said, as I was informed, "That is a lie, for had he come
+here to see me he would not have returned"; then rising, he walked away
+and left the men to follow me.
+
+I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the best way
+of dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more, in ran a bevy
+of the royal pages to ask for mtende beads--a whole sack of them; for
+the king wished to go with his women on a pilgrimage to the N'yanza.
+Thinking myself very lucky to buy the king's ear so cheaply, I sent
+Maula as before, adding that I considered my luck very bad, as nobody
+here knew my position in society, else they would not treat me as they
+did. My proper sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I
+wished to leave the country. My first desire had always been to see the
+king; and if he went to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me to go
+there also. The boys replied, "How can you go with his women? No one
+ever is permitted to see them." "Well," said I, "if I cannot go to
+the N'yanza with him" (thinking only of the great lake, whereas they
+probably meant a pond in the palace enclosures, where Mtesa constantly
+frolics with his women), "I wish to go to Usoga and Amara, as far as
+the Masai; for I have no companions here but crows and vultures." They
+promised to take the message, but its delivery was quite another thing;
+for no one can speak at this court till he is spoken to, and a word put
+in out of season is a life lost.
+
+On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so generous
+a man as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he believed most of my
+store must have been stolen on the road, and would ask me about that
+to-morrow. He intimated that for the future I must fire a gun at the
+waiting-hut whenever I entered the palace, so that he might hear of my
+arrival, for he had been up that morning, and would have been glad to
+see me, only the boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a
+lie, and deprived him of any interview with me, which he had long wished
+to get. This ready cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. Could
+it be possible, I thought, I had been fighting with a phantom all this
+while, and yet the king had not been able to perceive it? At all events,
+now, as the key to his door had been given, I would make good use of it
+and watch the result. Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's
+palace without having seen her majesty, though he had waited there
+patiently the whole day long, for she was engaged in festivities,
+incessantly drumming and playing, in consequence of the birth of twins
+(Mabassa), which had just taken place in her palace; but he was advised
+to return on the morrow.
+
+8th.--After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had gained all
+I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an instant admittance;
+but, as usual, I was required to sit and wait; the king was expected
+immediately. All the Wagungu talked in whispers, and nothing was heard
+but the never-ceasing harps and harmonicons. In a little while I felt
+tired of the monotony, and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie
+down in privacy and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers
+in waiting forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only
+alternative of walking up and down the court to kill time, spreading
+my umbrella against the powerful rays of the sun. A very little of that
+made me fidgety and impetuous, which the Waganda noticed, and, from fear
+of the consequences, they began to close the gate to prevent my walking
+away. I flew out on them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and
+shamed them into opening it again. The king immediately, on hearing
+of this, sent me pombe to keep me quiet; but as I would not touch it,
+saying I was sick at heart, another page rushed out to say the king was
+ready to receive me; and, opening a side gate leading into a small open
+court without a hut in it, there, to be sure, was his majesty, sitting
+on an Arab's donkey run, propped against one page, and encompassed by
+four others.
+
+On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my bundle
+of grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my umbrella. He was
+much struck at the facility with which I could make shade, but wondered
+still more at my requiring it. I explained to him that my skin was white
+because I lived in a colder country than his, and therefore was much
+more sensitive to the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at
+the same time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the
+shade of the court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation
+by asking who it was that gave me such offence in taking my guard from
+me to seize his Wakungu. The boy who had provoked me was then dragged
+in, tied by his neck and hands, when the king asked him by whose orders
+he had acted in such a manner, knowing that I objected to it, and
+wished to speak to him on the subject first. The poor boy, in a dreadful
+fright, said he had acted under the instructions of the Kamraviona:
+there was no harm done, for Bana's men were not hurt. "Well, then,"
+said the king, "if they were not injured, and you only did as you were
+ordered, no fault rests with you; but begone out of my sight, for I
+cannot bear to see you, and the Kamraviona shall be taught a lesson not
+to meddle with my guests again until I give him authority to do so."
+
+I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently in
+a good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome lesson on the
+manners and customs of the English nation, to show how much I felt the
+slights I had received since my residence in Uganda; but he never lost
+his dignity and fussiness as an Uganda king. My words must pass through
+his Mkungu, as well as my interpreter's, before they reached him; and,
+as he had no patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula,
+pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I lived so
+far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far, he must come
+nearer." Still I could not say a word, his fussiness and self-importance
+overcoming his inquisitiveness.
+
+Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was shown
+out of another, until the shower was over. As soon as the sky was
+clear again, we returned to the little court, and this time became more
+confidential, as he asked many questions about England--such as, Whether
+the Queen knew anything about medicines? Whether she kept a number
+of women as he did? and what her palace was like?--which gave me an
+opportunity of saying I would like to see his ships, for I heard they
+were very numerous--and also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful
+animals. He said the vessels were far off, but he would send for them;
+and although he once kept a large number of animals, he killed them all
+in practising with his guns. The Whitworth rifle was then brought in for
+me to take to pieces and teach him the use of; and then the chronometer.
+He then inquired if I would like to go shooting? I said, "Yes, if he
+would accompany me--not otherwise." "Hippopotami?" "Yes; there is great
+fun in that, for they knock the boats over when they charge from below."
+"Can you swim?" "Yes." "So can I. And would you like to shoot buffalo?"
+"Yes, if you will go." "At night, then, I will send my keepers to look
+out for them. Here is a leopard-car, with white behind its ears, and
+a Ndezi porcupine of the short-quilled kind, which my people eat with
+great relish; and if you are fond of animals, I will give you any number
+of specimens, for my keepers net and bring in live animals of every kind
+daily; for the present, you can take this basket of porcupines home for
+your dinner." My men n'yanzigged--the king walked away, giving orders
+for another officer to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and bring
+Petherick quickly--and I went home.
+
+This was to be a day of varied success. When I arrived at my hut I found
+a messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat, called "fowls
+for Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called potatoes, waiting
+for me; so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende beads, and told again the
+reasons why I had not been able to call upon the queen, but I hoped
+to do so shortly, as the king had promised me a house near at hand. I
+doubt, however, whether one word of my message ever reached her. That
+she wanted me at her palace was evident by the present, though she was
+either too proud or too cautious to say so.
+
+At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and Ntalo, a
+freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way of chaffing.
+Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who are you?" N. "A Mguana"
+(freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then where is your mother?" N. "She
+died at Anguja." S. "Your mother died at Anguja! then where is your
+father?" N. "He died at Anguja likewise." S. "Well, that is strange; and
+where are your brothers and sister?" N. "They all died at Anguja." S.
+(then changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you
+said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" N. "Yes,
+at Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two fathers--one set
+died at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you are a humbug; I don't
+believe you; you are no Mguana, but a slave who has been snatched from
+his family, and does not know where any of his family are. Ah! ah!
+ah!" And all the men of the camp laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's
+defeat; but Ntalo won't be done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you
+may laugh at me because I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a
+savage--a Mshezi; you come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not
+cloths, as men do; so hold your impudent tongue";--and the camp pealed
+with merry boisterous laughter again.
+
+9th.--Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king sent his
+pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some specific for
+the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted. I said I could not
+go so far in the sun; I would wait till I received the promised palace
+near her. In the meanwhile I prepared to call on him. I observed, in
+fact, that I was an object of jealousy between the two courts, and
+that, if I acted skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the
+situation, and secure my darling object of a passage northwards. The
+boys returned, bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say
+it was no use my thinking of calling on the king--that I must go to the
+queen immediately, for she was very ill. So far the queen won the day,
+but I did not obtain my new residence, which I considered the first step
+to accomplishing the greater object; I therefore put the iron farther in
+the fire by saying I was no man's slave, and I should not go until I got
+a house in the palace--Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the
+pistol. The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial
+service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead.
+
+10th.--To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on her
+with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it, and sleep
+the night. She admitted me at once, when I gave her quinine, on the
+proviso that I should stop there all day and night to repeat the dose,
+and tell her the reason why I did not come before. She affected great
+anger at Mtesa having interfered with my servants when coming to see
+her--sympathised with me on the distance I had to travel--ordered a hut
+to be cleared for me ere night--told me to eat my breakfast in the next
+court--and, rising abruptly, walked away. At noon we heard the king
+approaching with his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited on till
+5 p.m., when, on summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. Here I heard, in
+an adjoining court, the boisterous, explosive laughs of both mother and
+son--royal shouts loud enough to be heard a mile off, and inform the
+community that their sovereigns were pleased to indulge in hilarity.
+Immediately afterwards, the gate between us being thrown open, the
+king, like a very child, stood before us, dressed for the first time, in
+public, in what Europeans would call clothes. For a cap he wore a Muscat
+alfia, on his neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring. Then for
+a coat he had an Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen doti;
+whilst in his hand, in imitation of myself, he kept running his ramrod
+backwards and forwards through his fingers. As I advanced and doffed my
+hat, the king, smiling, entered the court, followed by a budding damsel
+dressed in red bindera, who carried the chair I had presented to him,
+and two new spears.
+
+He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had told
+him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to bring out
+some new fashion, or else the world would never make progress; and I was
+directed to sit before him on my grass throne. Talking, though I longed
+to enter into conversation, was out of the question; for no one dared
+speak for me, and I could not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till
+in a few minutes the queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and
+sat on a mbugu. I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared
+not take it; in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however
+high in rank, not even his mother, can sit before the king. After sundry
+jokes, whilst we were all bursting with laughter at the theatrical
+phenomenon, the Wakungu who were present, some twenty in number,
+threw themselves in line upon their bellies, and wriggling like fish,
+n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned, and uttered other wonderful words
+of rejoining--as, for instance, "Hai Minange! Hai Mkama wangi!" (O my
+chief! O my king!)--whilst they continued floundering, kicking about
+their legs, rubbing their faces, and patting their hands upon the
+ground, as if the king had performed some act of extraordinary
+munificence by showing himself to them in that strange and new
+position--a thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from.
+
+The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects, said,
+"Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called solemnly to
+witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at my hands. When
+she had swallowed her quinine with a wry face, two very black virgins
+appeared on the stage holding up the double red blanket I had given the
+queen; for nothing, however trifling, can be kept secret from the king.
+The whole court was in raptures. The king signified his approval by
+holding his mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance
+at it. The queen looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn;
+whilst my men hung down their heads, fearful lest they should be accused
+of looking at the ladies of the court; and the Wakungu n'yanzigged
+again, as if they could not contain the gratification they felt at the
+favour shown them. Nobody had ever brought such wonderful things to
+Uganda before, and all loved Bana.
+
+Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all past
+grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene--the mother holding
+up her pride, her son, before the state officers--melted my heart at
+once. I laughed as well as they did, and said it pleased me excessively
+to see them both so happy together. It was well the king had broken
+through the old-fashioned laws of Uganda, by sitting on an iron chair,
+and adopting European dresses; for now he was opening a road to cement
+his own dominions with my country. I should know what things to send
+that would please him. The king listened, but without replying; and
+said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and walked away,
+preserving famously the lion's gait. The mother also vanished, and I was
+led away to a hut outside, prepared for my night's residence. It was a
+small, newly-built hut, just large enough for my bed, with a corner for
+one servant; so I turned all my men away, save one--ate my dinner, and
+hoped to have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced in
+with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus for the
+night. In vain I pleaded I could not stand the suffocation of so many
+men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw plantains; and unless they
+turned out, I should do so, to benefit by the pure air. Maula said he
+had the queen's orders to sleep with Bana, and sleep there he would; so
+rather than kick him out, which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe
+and drank pombe all night, turning the people out and myself in, in the
+morning, to prepare for a small house-fight with the queen.
+
+11th.--Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my immediate
+attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had anticipated came
+on. I began the affair by intimating that I am in bed, and have not
+breakfasted. So at 10 a.m. another messenger arrives, to say her majesty
+is much surprised at my not coming. What can such conduct mean, when she
+arranged everything so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might
+drink her medicine properly? Still I am not up; but nobody will let me
+rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order Bombay
+to call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that has happened;
+at which she flies into a towering rage, says she will never touch
+medicine administered by any other hands but mine, and will not believe
+in one word Bombay says, either about Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose
+duty necessarily obliged him to take my servants before her majesty,
+had primed her with a lot of falsehoods on the subject; and she had
+a fondness for Maula, because he was a clever humbug and exceeding
+rogue--and sent Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared
+disobey her mandates before.
+
+It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to see the
+queen. Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting for a long time
+before she would show herself; and at last, when she came, she flounced
+up to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and vented her wrath, holding her
+head very high, and wishing to know how I could expect officers, with
+large establishments, to be turned out of their homes merely to give me
+room for one night; I ought to have been content with my fare; it was no
+fault of Maula's. I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib
+a liar, and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for her
+medicine; drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked off in ill
+humour as she had come. I now made up my mind to sit till 3 p.m., hoping
+to see the queen again, whilst talking with some Kidi officers, who,
+contrary to the general law of the country, indulged me with some
+discourses on geography, from which I gathered, though their stories
+were rather confused, that beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country,
+there was another lake which was navigated by the inhabitants in very
+large vessels; and somewhere in the same neighbourhood there was an
+exceedingly high mountain covered with yellow dust, which the natives
+collected, etc., etc.
+
+Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own
+accord, I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before I
+left, endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that the want of
+cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of interpreters, who had
+not conveyed to her my profound sentiments of devotion. This brought her
+gracious corpulence out all smirks and smiles, preceded by a basket
+of potatoes for "Bana, my son." I began conversation with a speech of
+courtesy, explaining how I had left my brother Grant and my great friend
+Rumanika at Karague--hastening, in compliance with the invitation of the
+king, to visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends in
+Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I neither
+saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their officers ever
+call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary hours. All seemed
+highly pleased, and complimented my speech; while the queen, turning to
+her officers, said, "If that is the case, I will send these men to you";
+whereupon the officers, highly delighted at the prospect of coming to
+see me, and its consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their
+hands would drop off. Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and
+before I had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and,
+showing her broad stern to the company, walked straight away. The
+officers then drew near me, and begged I would sleep there another
+night; but as they had nothing better to offer than the hut of last
+night, I declined and went my way, begging them to call and make friends
+with me.
+
+12th.--Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a great
+hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged I would bring
+all my guns immediately. I prepared, thinking, naturally enough, that
+some buffaloes had been marked down; for the boys, as usual, were
+perfectly ignorant of his designs. To my surprise, however, when I
+mounted the hill half-way to the palace, I found the king standing,
+dressed in a rich filagreed waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery,
+tweedling the loading-rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head,
+whilst his pages held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with
+dogs and goats for offerings, squatted before him.
+
+When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and
+proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which some
+adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting. This was the
+sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the king's gratification.
+I begged him to take a shot himself, as I really could not demean myself
+by firing at birds sitting on a tree; but it was all of no use--no one
+could shoot as I could, and they must be shot. I proposed frightening
+them out with stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the
+matter short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures
+flew away, brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden
+enclosure.
+
+The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment, when
+the king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands above his
+head, and singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders! Oh, Bana, Bana!
+what miracles he performs!"--and all the Wakungu followed in chorus.
+"Now load, Bana--load, and let us see you do it," cried the excited
+king; but before I was half loaded, he said, "Come along, come along,
+and let us see the bird." Then directing the officers which way to
+go--for, by the etiquette of the court of Uganda, every one must precede
+the king--he sent them through a court where his women, afraid of the
+gun, had been concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made
+fences, but the king roared to the officers to knock them down. This
+was no sooner said than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on and
+trampling them under, as an elephant would crush small trees to keep his
+course. So pushing, floundering through plaintain and shrub, pell-mell
+one upon the other, that the king's pace might not be checked, or any
+one come in for a royal kick or blow, they came upon the prostrate bird.
+"Woh, woh, woh!" cried the king again, "there he is, sure enough; come
+here, women--come and look what wonders!" And all the women, in the
+highest excitement, "woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men. But that was
+not enough. "Come along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more
+sport;" and, saying this he directed the way towards the queen's palace,
+the attendants leading, followed by the pages, then the king, next
+myself--for I never would walk before him--and finally the women, some
+forty or fifty, who constantly attended him.
+
+To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to screen
+myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like to enjoy the
+pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to answer, held mine
+over him as we walked side by side. The Wakungu were astonished, and the
+women prattled in great delight; whilst the king, hardly able to control
+himself, sidled and spoke to his flatterers as if he were doubly created
+monarch of all he surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now,
+Bana, do tell me--did you not shoot that bird with something more than
+common ammunition? I am sure you did, now; there was magic in it." And
+all I said to the contrary would not convince him. "But we will see
+again." "At buffaloes?" I said. "No, the buffaloes are too far off now;
+we will wait to go after then until I have given you a hut close by."
+Presently, as some herons were flying overhead, he said, "Now, shoot,
+shoot!" and I brought a couple down right and left. He stared, and
+everybody stared, believing me to be a magician, when the king said
+he would like to have pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the
+palace; "but let us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful."
+Similar results followed, for the herons were continually whirling
+round, as they had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the
+king ordered his pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture--which,
+for some reason, they did not touch--and show them to the queen.
+
+He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the palace.
+Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat, dismissed the party
+of wives who had been following him, as well as the Wakungu, received
+pombe from his female evil-eye averters, and ordered me, with my men,
+to sit in the sun facing him, till I complained of the heat, and was
+allowed to sit by his side. Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about
+in all directions, and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy
+the excited boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to
+the queen, till my ammunition was totally expended. He then wanted me
+to send for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more until
+my brothers come, he contented himself with taking two or three sample
+grains and ordering his iron-smiths to make some like them.
+
+Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but as the
+off one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed through the
+near one, then through all the courts and fences, and away no one knew
+where. The king was delighted, and said he must keep the rifle to look
+at for the night. I now asked permission to speak with him on some
+important matters, when he sent his women away and listened. I said I
+felt anxious about the road on which Mabruki was travelling, to which I
+added that I had ordered him to tell Petherick to come here or else to
+send property to the value of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious
+because some of the queen's officers felt doubtful about Waganda being
+able to penetrate Kidi. He said I need not concern myself on that score;
+he was much more anxious for the white men to come here than even I was,
+and he would not send my men into any danger; but it was highly improper
+for any of his people to speak about such subjects. Then, assembling
+the women again, he asked me to load Whitworth for him, when he shot the
+remaining cow, holding the rifle in both hands close to his thigh. The
+feat, of course, brought forth great and uproarious congratulations from
+his women. The day thus ended, and I was dismissed.
+
+13th.--Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last night; but
+the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information of them before
+the king received it, kept them concealed. They had been defeated
+in Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the residence of Nagozigombi,
+Mtesa's border officer, who gave them two bullocks, but advised their
+returning at once to inform the king that the independent Wasoga had
+been fighting with his dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the
+battle would not be over for two months or more, unless he sent an army
+to their assistance.
+
+I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had much of
+importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he was deep in
+the interior of the palace enjoying the society of his wives. The
+Kamraviona, however, was found there waiting, as usual, on the mere
+chance of his majesty taking it into his head to come out. He asked
+Bombay if it was true the woman he gave me ran away; and when Bombay
+told him, he said, "Oh, he should have chained her for two or three
+days, until she became accustomed to her residence; for women often take
+fright and run away in that way, believing strangers to be cannibals."
+But Bombay replied, "She was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off
+like a dog; he wants a young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all." "Ah,
+well, then, if he is so particular, he must wait a bit, for we have
+none on hand. What I gave him is the sort of creature we give all our
+guests." A Msoga was sent by the king to take the dead adjutant of
+yesterday out of the nest--for all Wasoga are expert climbers, which is
+not the case with the Waganda; but the man was attacked half-way up the
+tree by a swarm of bees, and driven down again.
+
+14th.--After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my
+object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had intended to
+accomplish whenever I could. I now succeeded in sending--for I could
+not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get it done earlier--a present of
+fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty blue eggs, and five copper bracelets,
+to the commander-in-chief, as a mark of friendship. At the same time I
+hinted that I should like him to use his influence in obtaining for me
+a near and respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the
+Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was utterly
+miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every day. The result
+was, that a number of huts in a large plantain garden were at once
+assigned to me, on the face of a hill, immediately overlooking and close
+to the main road. It was considered the "West End." It had never before
+been occupied by any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being
+near, and in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as
+I could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people ever
+wending their way to and from the royal abodes. I lost no time in moving
+all my property, turning out the original occupants--in selecting the
+best hut for myself, giving the rest to my three officers--and ordering
+my men to build barracks for themselves, in street form, from my hut to
+the main road. There was one thing only left to be done; the sanitary
+orders of Uganda required every man to build himself a house of
+parliament, such being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda--a
+pattern to all other negro tribes.
+
+15th.--As nobody could obtain an interview with the king yesterday, I
+went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots--a signal which was at
+once answered from within by a double discharge of a gun I had just lent
+him on his returning my rifle. In a little while, as soon as he had
+time to dress, the king, walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his
+white dog, and beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of
+which was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping
+perfect order. He planted himself on his throne, and begged me to sit by
+his side. Then took place the usual scene of a court levee, as described
+in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this instance, that the son of the
+chief executioner--one of the highest officers of state--was led off
+for execution, for some omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or
+salutes.
+
+At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo
+plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women, without
+any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said they were Bana's
+men. Bombay, who was present, heard the complaint, and declared these
+were Suwarora's men, who made use of the proximity of my camp to cover
+their own transgressions. Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also
+present, cringed forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the
+accusation, when the king gave all warning that he would find out the
+truth by placing guards on the look-out at night.
+
+Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat of the
+party sent for Petherick. His kingdom might have been lost, and he would
+have been no wiser; when the officer who led Mabruki came forward and
+told him all that had happened, stating, in addition to what I heard
+before, that they took eighty men with them, and went into battle three
+times successfully. Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me,
+and said he never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life;
+he was sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he wished
+I would instruct him in the art. When I denied there was any art in
+shooting, further than holding the gun straight, he shook his head,
+and getting me to load his revolving pistol for him, he fired all
+five barrels into two cows before the multitude. He then thought of
+adjutant-shooting with ball, left the court sitting, desired me to
+follow him, and leading the way, went into the interior of the palace,
+where only a few select officers were permitted to follow us. The birds
+were wild, and as nothing was done, I instructed him in the way to fire
+from his shoulder, placing the gun in position. He was shy at first, and
+all the people laughed at my handling royalty like a schoolboy; but he
+soon took to it very good-naturedly, when I gave him my silk necktie and
+gold crest-ring, explaining their value, which he could not comprehend,
+and telling him we gentlemen prided ourselves on never wearing brass or
+copper.
+
+He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance of
+getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this account, I
+said, I had come to see him to-day. He answered, "I am going to send an
+army to Usoga to force the way from where your men were turned back."
+But this, I said, would not do for me, as I saw his people travelled
+like geese, not knowing the direction of Gani, or where they were going
+to when sent. I proposed that if he would call all his travelling men
+of experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I had
+brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick.
+
+The map was then produced. He seemed to comprehend it immediately, and
+assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my mortification, he kept all the
+conversation to himself, Waganda fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense;
+and then asked his men what they thought had better be done. The sages
+replied, "Oh, make friends, and do the matter gently." But the king
+proudly raised his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends
+with men who have crossed their spears with us already! Nonsense! they
+would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." Hearing
+this bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders, all rose to a
+man, with their sticks, and came charging at their king, swearing they
+would carry out his wished with their lives. The meeting now broke up
+in the usual unsatisfactory, unfinished manner, by the king rising and
+walking away, whilst I returned with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten
+more blue eggs in addition to my present to make a full necklace, and
+told my men to call upon him in the morning, when he would give me
+anything I wished to eat. Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort
+of food I lived on usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick into
+ten bits, each representing a differing article, and said, "Bana eat
+mixed food always"; and explained that stick No. 1 represented beef; No.
+2, mutton; No. 3, fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5, fish; No. 6, potatoes; No.
+7, plantains; No. 8, pombe; No. 9, butter; No. 10, flour.
+
+16th.--To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again, and
+not to be seen. I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a present for the
+Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon him. He sent me a goat
+and ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not visible to strangers on business
+to-day. I inferred that he required the king's permission to receive me.
+This double failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for
+my cows were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food;
+and though they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"--by
+seizing--from the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness this,
+that I tried from the first to dispense with it, telling the king I had
+always flogged my men for stealing, and now he turned them into a pack
+of thieves. I urged that he should either allow me to purchase rations,
+or else feed them from the palace as Rumanika did; but he always turned
+a deaf ear, or said that what Sunna his father had introduced it ill
+became him to subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would
+die of starvation.
+
+On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On reaching
+the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival, and sat waiting
+for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my pipe, and listening to
+her in the adjoining court, where music was playing, and her voice
+occasionally rent the air with merry boisterous laughing.
+
+The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary or
+disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my time, as the
+Uganda officers do. Whew! Here was another diplomatic crisis, which had
+to be dealt with in the usual way. "I bide my time!" I said, rising in
+a towering passion, and thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick,
+before all the visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her
+door would always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and
+I solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some apology
+be made for treating me like a dog." Then, returning home, I tied up all
+the presents her majesty had given me in a bundle, and calling Maula and
+my men together, told them to take them where they came from; for it
+ill became me to keep tokens of friendship when no friendship existed
+between us. I came to make friends with the queen, not to trade or take
+things from her--and so forth. The blackguard Maula, laughing, said,
+"Bana does not know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda
+sending presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen;
+her wrath would know no bounds. She will say, 'I took a few trifles from
+Bana as specimens of his country, but they shall all go back, and the
+things the king has received shall go back also, for we are all of one
+family'; and then won't Bana be very sorry? Moreover, Wakungu will be
+killed by dozens, and lamentations will reign throughout the court to
+propitiate the devils who brought such disasters on them." Bombay, also
+in a fright, said, "Pray don't do so; you don't know these savages as
+we do; there is no knowing what will happen; it may defeat our journey
+altogether. Further, we have had no food these four days, because row
+succeeds row. If we steal, you flog us; and if we ask the Waganda
+for food, they beat us. We don't know what to do." I was imperative,
+however, and said, "Maula must take back these things in the morning, or
+stand the consequences." In fact, I found that, like the organ-grinders
+in London, to get myself moved on I must make myself troublesome.
+
+17th.--The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib, whilst I
+went to see the Kamraviona. Even this gentleman kept me waiting for some
+time to show his own importance, and then admitted me into one of his
+interior courts, where I found him sitting on the ground with several
+elders; whilst Wasoga minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang
+songs in praise of their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine
+clothes and eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach,
+the haughty young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did not
+raise his head; then he begged me to be seated, and even enquired
+after my health, in a listless, condescending kind of manner, as if the
+exertion of talking was too much for his constitution or his rank; but
+he soon gave up this nonsense as I began to talk, inquired, amongst
+other things, why I did not see the Waganda at my house, when I said
+I should so much like to make acquaintance with them, and begged to be
+introduced to the company who were present.
+
+I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is
+prohibited to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No one
+even dare ever talk about the royal pedigree of the countries that have
+been conquered, or even of any neighbouring countries; no one dare visit
+the king's guests, or be visited by them, without leave, else the king,
+fearing sharers in his plunder, would say, What are you plucking our
+goose for? Neither can any one cast his eye for a moment on the women of
+the palace, whether out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of
+amorous intentions. Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves,
+are the only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold in his
+possession. Should anything else be seen in his house--for instance,
+cloth--his property would be confiscated and his life taken.
+
+I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema, an
+elderly gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry Sunna the
+late king; Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks high in court; then
+Usungu and Kunza, executioners, rank very high, enjoying the greatest
+confidence with the king; and, finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced
+their pedigree to the age of the first Uganda king. As I took down a
+note of their several names, each seemed delighted at finding his name
+written down by me; and Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour
+that I would plead to the king to spare his son's life, who, as I have
+mentioned, was ordered out to execution on the last levee day. At first
+I thought it necessary, for the sake of maintaining my dignity, to raise
+objections, and said it would ill become one of my rank to make any
+request that might possibly be rejected; but as the Kamraviona assured
+me there would be no chance of failure, and everybody else agreed with
+him, I said it would give me intense satisfaction to serve him; and the
+old man squeezed my hand as if overpowered with joy.
+
+This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because the
+company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external interest,
+occupied themselves solely on matters of home business, or indulged
+their busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross flattery of their
+"illustrious visitor." In imitation of the king, the Kamraviona now went
+from one hut to another, requesting us to follow that we might see all
+his greatness, and then took me alone into a separate court, to show
+me his women, some five-and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda. This,
+he added, was a mark of respect he had never conferred on any person
+before; but, fearing lest I should misunderstand his meaning and covet
+any of them, he said, "Mind they are only to be looked at."
+
+As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return for some
+courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were immensely pleased
+with my having come to visit them; and as he heard my country is
+governed by a woman, what would I say if he made the Waganda dethrone
+her, and create me king instead? Without specially replying, I showed
+him a map, marking off the comparative sizes of British and
+Waganda possessions, and shut him up. The great Kamraviona, or
+commander-in-chief, with all his wives, has no children, and was eager
+to know if my skill could avail to remove this cloud in his fortunes.
+He generously gave me a goat and eggs, telling my men they might help
+themselves to plantains from any gardens they liked beyond certain
+limits, provided they did not enter houses or take anything else. He
+then said he was tired and walked away without another word.
+
+On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with all the
+articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly tied together.
+They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my message, pretended
+excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not announcing my
+arrival yesterday--flogged him severely--inspected all the things
+returned--folded them up again very neatly with her own hands--said
+she felt much hurt at the mistake which had arisen, and hoped I would
+forgive and forget it, as her doors would always be open to me.
+
+I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their misgivings of
+yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature than they did; but
+they shook their heads, and said it was all very well Bana having done
+it, but if Arabs or any other person had tried the same trick, it would
+have been another affair. "Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I
+know my value here, which makes all the difference you speak of."
+
+18th.--Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a friendly
+visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and streaming with
+blood; they had been trying to help themselves to plantains carried
+on the heads of Waganda; but the latter proving too strong, my people
+seized a boy and woman from their party as witnesses, according to
+Uganda law, and ran away with them, tied hand and neck together. With
+this addition to my attendance I first called in at the Kamraviona's
+for justice; but as he was too proud to appear at once, I went on to the
+king's fired three shots as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when
+I found him standing in a yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair
+behind him, and my double-gun loaded with half charges of powder and a
+few grains of iron shot, looking eagerly about for kites to fly over.
+His quick eye, however, readily detected my wounded men and prisoners,
+as also some Wazinza prisoners led in by Waganda police, who had been
+taken in the act of entering Waganda houses and assailing their women.
+Thus my men were cleared of a false stigma; and the king, whilst
+praising them, ordered all the Wazinza to leave his dominions on the
+morrow.
+
+The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving orders to
+keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any people come forward,
+they would be punished, otherwise their loss in human stock would be
+enough. The Wanguana had done quite right to seize on the highway, else
+they would have starved; such was the old law, and such is the present
+one. It was no use our applying for a change of system. At this stage of
+the business, the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a
+great state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot that
+other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew away, kicking
+with their claws as if merely stung a little.
+
+Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my having
+opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his salutations. A
+blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and a fisherman a basket
+of fish, from which two fish were taken out and given to me. The king
+then sat on his iron chair, and I on a wooden box which I had contrived
+to stuff with the royal grass he gave me, and so made a complete
+miniature imitation of his throne. The folly in now allowing me to sit
+upon my portable iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out
+my determination to sit before him like an Englishman. I wished to be
+communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the use and
+value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to them, and soon
+put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much more attractions to
+his mind than the wonders of the outer world, and he kept it up with his
+Kamraviona until rain fell and dispersed the company.
+
+19th.--As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my officers
+to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call upon her, I sent
+Nasib early to say I would call in the afternoon; but he had to wait
+till the evening before he could deliver the message, though she had
+been drumming and playing all the day. She then complained against
+my men for robbing her gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I
+didn't call upon her oftener, appointed the following morning for an
+interview, and begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she
+suffered from constant twinges in her right side, sealing her "letter"
+with a present of a nest of eggs and one fowl.
+
+Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I had
+the king. He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet still delighted
+in nothing but what was frivolous. My beard, for instance, engrossed the
+major part of the conversation; all the Waganda would come out in future
+with hairy faces; but when I told them that, to produce such a growth,
+they must wash their faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off,
+they turned up their noses in utter contempt.
+
+20th.--I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else
+to occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office
+letter-book, as my store of stationery was left at Karague. I had no
+chance of seeing any visitors, save the tiresome pages, who asked me
+to give or to do something for the king every day; and my prospect was
+cheerless, as I had been flatly refused a visit to Usoga until Grant
+should come. For want of better amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a
+sharp little lad, son of the late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and
+treated him as a son, which he declared he wished to be, for he liked
+me better than Uledi as a father. He said he disliked Uganda, where
+people's lives are taken like those of fowls; and wished to live at
+the coast, the only place he ever heard of, where all the Wanguana come
+from--great swells in Lugoi's estimation. Now, with Lugoi dressed in a
+new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed with black tape for his head
+and arms to go through, a dagger tied with red bindera round his waist,
+and a square of red blanket rolled on his shoulder as a napkin, for my
+gun to rest on, or in place of a goat-skin run when he wished to sit
+down, I walked off to inquire how the Kamraviona was, and took my
+pictures with me.
+
+Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was made to
+take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh visitor came to
+call. Hardly a word was said about anything else; even the pictures,
+which generally are in such demand, attracted but little notice. I asked
+the Kamraviona to allow me to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister
+Miengo came in and sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately.
+
+At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog--whether from fear
+of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead of producing
+the pet--a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog--a common black one was
+brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo, and then drew both woman
+and dog together. After this unlawful act was discovered, of drawing
+the king's sister without his consent, the whole company roared with
+laughter, and pretended nervous excitement lest I should book them
+likewise. One of my men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from
+foraging; and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I
+told the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said,
+"Look for him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make friends
+with our people, and so slip away from their masters; but as they are
+also often murdered, provided you cannot find him in that time, we will
+have the Mganga out."
+
+21st.--Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue and cry
+from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo companions; for the
+Waganda had threatened to demolish my men, one by one, for seizing their
+pombe and plaintains, though done according to the orders of the king;
+and now, finding the Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them by
+moonlight, with spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with
+reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two spears
+and one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. In the morning,
+I sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the king, again complaining
+that he had turned my men into a pack of highwaymen, and, as I foresaw,
+had thus created enmity between the Waganda and them, much to my
+annoyance. I therefore begged he would institute some means to prevent
+any further occurrence of such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in
+self-defence.
+
+Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to the
+queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine. The first object of
+remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere; for, as I walked along,
+crowds ran after the little phenomenon. Then came the liver questions;
+and, finally what I wanted--her complaint against my men for robbing
+on the road, as it gave me the opportunity of telling her the king was
+doing what I had been trying to undo with my stick ever since I left
+the coast; and I begged she would use influence to correct these
+disagreeables. She told me for the future to send my men to her palace
+for food, and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains
+for them. She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely
+disappointed that I could not make some more tangible arrangement with
+her--such as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what were they to
+do then? there were forty-five of them; how much would she allow; etc.
+etc. But this was a true specimen of the method of transacting business
+among the royal family of Uganda. They gave orders without knowing how
+they are to be carried out, and treat all practical arrangements as
+trifling details not worth attending to.
+
+After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's, knowing
+the power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst doubting the ability
+of the Wakungu to gain an audience for me. Such was the case. These men
+had been sitting all day without seeing the king, and three shots opened
+his gate immediately to me. He was sitting on the iron chair in the
+shade of the court, attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading
+rod in his fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they
+were exchanged. I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his hair
+straight with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful manner in
+which I dressed my hair, making my uncap to show it to his women, and
+afterwards asked my men to bring on the affair of last night. They
+feared, they said, to speak on such subjects whilst the women were
+present. I begged for a private audience; still they would not speak
+until encouraged and urged beyond all patience. I said, in Kisuahili,
+"Kbakka" (king), "my men are afraid to tell you what I want to say";
+when Maula, taking advantage of my having engaged his attention, though
+the king did not understand one word I said, said of himself, by way of
+currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in Rumankika's hands, with
+six barrells; not a short one like your fiver" (meaning the revolving
+pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm." "Indeed," says the king,
+"we must have that." A page was then sent for by Maula, who, giving
+him a bit of stick representing the gun required, told him to fetch it
+immediately.
+
+The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?" I began with sulphur
+(kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word kibriti was
+enough for him, and a second stick was sent for kibriti, the bearer
+being told to hurry for his life and fetch it. The king now ordered
+some high officers who were in waiting to approach. They come, almost
+crouching to their knees, with eyes averted from the women, and
+n'yanzigged for the favour of being called, till they streamed with
+perspiration. Four young women, virgins, the daughters of these high
+officers, nicely dressed, were shown in as brides, and ordered to sit
+with the other women. A gamekeeper brought in baskets small antelopes,
+called mpeo--with straight horns resembling those of the saltiana, but
+with coats like the hog-deer of India--intended for the royal kitchen.
+Elderly gentlemen led in goats as commutation for offences, and went
+through the ceremonies due for the favour of being relieved of so much
+property. Ten cows were then driven in, plundered from Unyoro, and
+outside, the voices of the brave army who captured them were heard
+n'yanzigging vehemently. Lastly, some beautifully made shields were
+presented, and, because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when the king rose
+abruptly and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men no better off
+for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I had never gone
+there.
+
+22d.--I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to know how
+my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to speak, she flew
+at me again about my men plundering. The old story was repeated; I had
+forty-five hungry men, who must have food, and unless either she or the
+king would make some proper provision for them, I could not help it.
+Again she promised to feed them, but she objected to them bearing
+swords, "for of what use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the
+Wanguana, can swords prevail in our country?" And, saying this, she
+walked away. I thought to myself that she must have directed the attack
+upon my camp last night and is angry at the Wanguana swords driving
+her men away. At 3 p.m. I visited the king, to have a private chat, and
+state my grievances; but the three shots fired brought him out to levee,
+when animals and sundry other things were presented; and appointments
+of Wakungu were made for the late gallant services of some of the men in
+plundering Unyoro.
+
+The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to pardon
+his son. Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be possible Bana has
+asked for this?" And when assured, in great glee he ordered the lad's
+release, amidst shouts of laughter from everybody but the agitated
+father, who n'yanzigged, cried, and fell at my feet, making a host of
+powerful signs as a token of his gratitude; for his heart was too full
+of emotion to give utterance to his feelings. The king them, in high
+good-humour, said, "You have called on me many times without broaching
+the subject of Usoga, and perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting
+ourselves in the matter; but my army is only now returning from war"
+(meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and I am collecting another one, which
+will open Usoga effectually." Before I could say anything, the king
+started up in his usual manner, inviting a select few to follow him to
+another court, when my medicine-chest was inspected, and I was asked
+to operate for fistula on one of the royal executioners. I had no
+opportunity of incurring this responsibility; for while professing to
+prepare for the operation, the king went off it a fling.
+
+When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or murdered,
+quietly ensconced in camp. He had been foraging by himself a long way
+from camp, in a neighbourhood where many of the king's women are kept;
+and it being forbidden ground, he was taken up by the keepers, placed in
+the stocks, and fed, until to-day, when he extricated his legs by means
+of his sword, and ran away. My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again,
+clamouring for food, saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease
+and overlooked their wants. In vain I told them they had fared more
+abundantly than I had since we entered Uganda; whilst I spared my goats
+to have a little flesh of their cows as rapidly as possible, selling the
+skins for pombe, which I seldom tasted; they robbed me as long as I had
+cloth or beads, and now they had all become as fat as hogs by lifting
+food off the Waganda lands. As I could not quiet them, I directed that,
+early next morning, Maula should go to the king and Nasib to the queen,
+while I proposed going to Kamraviona's to work them all three about this
+affair of food.
+
+23d.--According to the plan of last night, I called early on the
+Kamraviona. He promised me assistance, but with an air which seemed
+to say, What are the sufferings of other men to me? So I went home to
+breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. As Kaggo, however,
+the second officer of importance, had expressed a wish to see me, I sent
+Bombay to him for food, and waited the upshot. Presently the king sent
+to say he wished to see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had
+told him I possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could
+find my way all over the world. I went as requested, and found the king
+sitting outside the palace on my chair dressed in cloths, with my
+silk neckerchief and crest-ring, playing his flute in concert with his
+brothers, some thirty-odd young men and boys, one half of them manacled,
+the other half free, with an officer watching over them to see that they
+committed no intrigues.
+
+We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls, conversed
+and had music by turns; for the king had invited his brothers here to
+please me, the first step towards winning the coveted compass. My hair
+must now be shown and admired, then my shoes taken off and inspected,
+and my trousers tucked up to show that I am white all over. Just at this
+time Bombay, who had been in great request, came before us laden with
+plantains. This was most opportune; for the king asked what he had been
+about, and then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in
+obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to him. In
+a great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a hundred Wakungu
+in a single day, and now, if they won't feed my guests, I will kill a
+hundred more; for I know the physic for bumptiousness." Then, sending
+his brothers away, he asked me to follow him into the back part of the
+palace, as he loved me so much he must show me everything. We walked
+along under the umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then
+up another, and, finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one
+adjoining it. "That hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in; no one
+of my wives dare venture within it unless I call her." He let me feel
+immediately that for the distinction conferred on me in showing me this
+sacred hut a return was expected. Could I after that refuse him such a
+mere trifle as a compass? I told him he might as well put my eyes out
+and ask me to walk home, as take away that little instrument, which
+could be of no use to him, as he could not read or understand it.
+But this only excited his cupidity; he watched it twirling round and
+pointing to the north, and looked and begged again, until, tired of
+his importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga road was open
+before I could part with it, and then the compass would be nothing to
+what I would give him. Hearing this, "That is all on my shoulders; as
+sure as I live it shall be done; for that country has no king, and I
+have long been desirous of taking it." I declined, however, to give him
+the instrument on the security of his promise, and he went to breakfast.
+
+I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his misery.
+I found that he had a complication of evils entirely beyond my healing
+power, and among them inveterate forms of the diseases which are
+generally associated with civilisation and its social evils. I could
+do nothing to cure him, but promised to do whatever was in my power to
+alleviate his sufferings.
+
+24th.--Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot coffee
+to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him not a little,
+as the negroes only use coffee for chewing. He gave my men pombe and
+plantains. On my return I met a page sent to invite me to the palace.
+I found the king sitting with a number of women. He was dressed in
+European clothes, part of them being a pair of trousers he begged for
+yesterday, that he might appear like Bana. This was his first appearance
+in trousers, and his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native
+habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a little
+ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the
+waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck
+out at the extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, whilst the
+cockscomb on his head prevented a fez cap, which was part of his special
+costume for the occasion, from sitting properly. This display over, the
+women were sent away, and I saw shown into a court, where a large number
+of plantains were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take
+away, and we were promised the same treat every day. From this we
+proceeded to another court, where we sat in the shade together, when the
+women returned again, but were all dumb, because my interpreters dared
+not for their lives say anything, even on my account, to the king's
+women. Getting tired, I took out my sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the
+pet, which amused the king immensely as he recognised her cockscomb.
+
+Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared
+and shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for a
+fig-leaf, marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to the
+harem, whilst the happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on the ground,
+delighted to find their darlings appreciated by the king. Seeing this
+done in such a quiet mild way before all my men, who dared not lift
+their heads to see it, made me burst into a roar of laughter, and the
+king, catching the infection from me, laughed as well: but the laughing
+did not end there--for the pages, for once giving way to nature, kept
+bursting--my men chuckled in sudden gusts--while even the women, holding
+their mouths for fear of detection, responded--and we all laughed
+together. Then a sedate old dame rose from the squatting mass, ordered
+the virgins to right-about, and marched them off, showing their still
+more naked reverses. I now obtained permission for the Wakungu to call
+upon me, and fancied I only required my interpreters to speak out like
+men when I had anything to say, to make my residence in Uganda both
+amusing and instructive; but though the king, carried off by the
+prevailing good-humour of the scene we had both witnessed, supported me,
+I found that he had counter-ordered what he had said as soon as I had
+gone, and, in fact, no Mkungu ever dared come near me.
+
+25th.--To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better. He gave
+pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me, though I
+told him he had permission to call on me.
+
+I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have
+consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among
+these, nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible
+as it may appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched
+palace women led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along
+by one of the body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death,
+"Hai Minange!" (O my lord!) "Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My
+mother!) at the top of her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation;
+and yet there was not a soul who dared lift hand to save any of them,
+though many might be heard privately commenting on their beauty.
+
+26th.--To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself holding
+a levee, and proceeded to visit him. On the way I found the highroad
+thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on arrival at the
+ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting, Masimbi (Mr Cowries or
+Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a young general, who once led
+an army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's palace. They said they had obtained
+leave for me to visit them, and were eagerly looking out for the happy
+event. At once, on firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place,
+which, now that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade
+of the court screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the women;
+the king would like to have some more, and gave me leave to draw in the
+palace any time I liked. At the same time he asked for my paint-box,
+merely to look at it. Though I repeatedly dunned him for it, I could
+never get it back from him until I was preparing to leave Uganda.
+
+27th.--After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but finding he
+had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and he being absent
+also, I took advantage of my proximity to the queen's palace to call on
+her majesty. For hours I was kept waiting; firstly, because she was
+at breakfast; secondly, because she was "putting on medicine"; and,
+thirdly, because the sun was too powerful for her complexion; when I
+became tired of her nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me,
+she had better say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time
+I came I saw her but for a minute, when she rudely turned her back upon
+me, and left me sitting by myself." I was told not to be in a hurry--she
+would see me in the evening. This promise might probably be fulfilled
+six blessed hours from the time when it was made; but I thought to
+myself, every place in Uganda is alike when there is no company at home,
+and so I resolved to sit the time out, like Patience on a monument,
+hoping something funny might turn up after all.
+
+At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket, which is
+converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or rather testily,
+"Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the weather?--clouds flying
+about, and the wind blowing half a gale? Whenever that is the case, I
+cannot venture out." Taking her lie without an answer, I said, I had now
+been fifty days or so doing nothing in Uganda--not one single visitor
+of my own rank ever came near me, and I could not associated with people
+far below her condition and mine--in fact, all I had to amuse me at
+home now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed. Her majesty
+became genial, as she had been before, and promised to provide me with
+suitable society. I then told her I had desired my officers several
+times to ask the king how marriages were conducted in this country, as
+they appeared so different from ours, but they always said they dared
+not put such a question to him, and now I hoped she would explain it to
+me. To tell her I could not get anything from the king, I knew would
+be the surest way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the
+jealousy between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully
+proved, for she brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand
+something of what I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good humour
+entered on a long explanation, to the following effect:--
+
+There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no ceremonies
+attached to it. If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty daughter committed
+an offence, he might give her to the king as a peace-offering; if any
+neighbouring king had a pretty daughter, and the king of Uganda wanted
+her, she might be demanded as a fitting tribute. The Wakungu in Uganda
+are supplied with women by the king, according to their merits, from
+seizures in battle abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at
+home. The women are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi
+practice, though many exchange their daughters; and some women, for
+misdemeanours, are sold into slavery; whilst others are flogged, or are
+degraded to do all the menial services of the house.
+
+The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a black
+woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be their colour?
+The company now became jovial, when the queen improved it by making a
+significant gesture, and with roars of laughter asking me if I would
+like to be her son-in-law, for she had some beautiful daughters, either
+of the Wahuma, or Waganda breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful
+proposal, I consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her.
+He, looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all means
+accept the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and it would
+be a good means of getting her out of this land of death, for all black
+people love Zanzibar." The rest need not be told; as a matter of course
+I had to appear very much gratified, and as the bowl went round, all
+became uproarious. I must wait a day or two, however, that a proper
+selection might be made; and when the marriage came off, I was to chain
+the fair one two or three days, until she became used to me, else, from
+mere fright, she might run away.
+
+To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions of
+pombe had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring, composed of
+copper wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and asked her why she
+wore such a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had often seen on some of the
+Wakungu. On this she produced a number of rings similar to the one she
+wore, and taking off her own, placed it round my neck. Then, pointing
+to her wreath, she said, "This is the badge of a kidnapper's
+office--whoever wears it, catches little children." I inferred that its
+possession, as an insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power
+of seizure, as the great seal in this country confers power on public
+officers.
+
+The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain where
+I was for a short time, she went to it. She sent me several dishes
+(plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and mutton, and a variety of
+vegetables, from her table, as well as a number of round moist napkins,
+made in the shape of wafers, from the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to
+wash the hands and face with. There was no doubt now about her culinary
+accomplishments. I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her
+parties all the more because they ended with a dinner. "More pombe, more
+pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping everybody round
+in turn, and shouting and laughing at their Kiganda witticisms--making,
+though I knew not a word said, an amusing scene to behold--till the sun
+sank; and her majesty remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If I
+get up, will Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?" With
+this speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's
+retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu fell upon
+their knees, and then all separated.
+
+28th.--I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee waiting
+the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the Kamraviona,
+Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo. I fired my gun, and admitted
+at once, but none of the others could follow me save Miengo. The king,
+sitting on the chair with his women by his side, ordered twelve cloths,
+the presents of former Arab visitors, to be brought before him; and
+all of these I was desired to turn into European garments, like my
+own coats, trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no
+tailors--the thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume
+exceedingly, and wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for ever
+to dispense with the mbugu.
+
+As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all
+wonderfully clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other things I
+gave him, I now told him if he would order some of his sempsters, who
+are far cleverer with the needle than my men, to my camp, I would cut up
+some old clothes, and so teach them how to work. This was agreed to, and
+five cows were offered as a reward; but as his men never came, mine had
+to do the job.
+
+Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour, relating what
+wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his majesty would only deign
+to see them; and for this humbug got rewarded by a present of three
+women. Just at this juncture an adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of
+fun, I presented my gun, when the excited king, like a boy from school,
+jumped up, forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot
+the nundo; I know where he has gone--follow me." And away we went, first
+through one court, then through another, till we found the nundo perched
+on a tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with a bald head, and
+very sharp, long nose. Politeness lost the bird; for whilst I wished the
+king to shoot, he wished me to do so, from fear of missing it himself.
+He did not care about vultures--he could practise at them at any time;
+but he wanted a nundo above all things. The bird, however, took the
+hint, and flew away.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIII. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman--A Visit from the King--Royal
+Sport--The Queen's Present of Wives--The Court Beauties and their
+Reverses--Judicial Procedure in Uganda--Buffalo-Hunting--A Musical
+Party--My Medical Practice--A Royal Excursion on the N'yanza--The
+Canoes of Uganda--A Regatta--Rifle Practice--Domestic
+Difficulties--Interference of a Magician--The King's Brothers.
+
+29th.--According to appointment I went early this morning to visit
+Congow. He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and then called
+me in to where I found him sitting with his women--a large group, by
+no means pretty. His huts are numerous, the gardens and courts all
+very neat and well kept. He was much delighted with my coming, produced
+pombe, and asked me what I thought of his women, stripping them to
+the waist. He assured me that he had thus paid me such a compliment as
+nobody else had ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one
+another--so much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon
+a woman even in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so many
+women? To which he replied, "None whatever; the king gives them to us
+to keep up our rank, sometimes as many as one hundred together, and we
+either turn them into wives, or make servants of them, as we please."
+Just then I heard that Mkuenda, the queen's woman-keeper, was outside
+waiting for me, but dared not come in, because Congow's women were all
+out; so I asked leave to go home to breakfast, much to the surprise of
+Congow, who thought I was his guest for the whole day. It is considered
+very indecorous in Uganda to call upon two persons in one day, though
+even the king or the queen should be one of them. Then, as there was
+no help for it--Congow could not detain me when hungry--he showed me a
+little boy, the only child he had, and said, with much fatherly pride,
+"Both the king and queen have called on me to see this fine little
+fellow"; and we parted to meet again some other day. Outside his gate
+I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had sent him to invite "her son" to
+bring her some stomach medicine in the morning, and come to have a
+chat with her. With Mkuenda I walked home; but he was so awed by the
+splendour of my hut, with its few blankets and bit of chintz, that
+he would not even sit upon a cow-skin, but asked if any Waganda dared
+venture in there. He was either too dazzled or too timid to answer any
+questions, and in a few minutes walked away again.
+
+After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I received a
+summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with all the Wanguana
+armed, and my guns; and going towards the palace, found him with a
+large staff, pages and officers as well as women, in a plantain garden,
+looking eagerly out for birds, whilst his band was playing. In addition
+to his English dress, he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of
+the sun was distressing his eyes--for, in fact, he wanted me to give
+him a wideawake like my own. Then, as if a sudden freak had seized him,
+though I knew it was on account of Maula's having excited his curiosity,
+he said, "Where does Bana live? lead away." Bounding and scrambling, the
+Wakungu, the women and all, went pell-mell through everything towards my
+hut. If the Kamraviona or any of the boys could not move fast enough,
+on account of the crops on the fields, they were piked in the back
+till half knocked over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on,
+n'yanzigging as if honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like so
+many dogs.
+
+Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my
+hat, and seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with much
+difficulty, was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women at first
+were ordered to squat outside. Everything that struck the eye was much
+admired and begged for, though nothing so much as my wideawake and
+mosquito-curtains; then, as the women were allowed to have a peep in and
+see Bana in his den, I gave them two sacks of beads, to make the
+visit profitable, the only alternative left me from being forced into
+inhospitality, for no one would drink from my cup. Moreover, a present
+was demanded by the laws of the country.
+
+The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting
+hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on as
+being different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with the
+adjutant's nest. One young bird was still living in it. There was no
+shot, so bullets must be fired; and the cunning king, wishing to show
+off, desired me to fire simultaneously with himself. We fired, but my
+bullet struck the bough the nest was resting on; we fired again, and the
+bullet passed through the nest without touching the bird. I then asked
+the king to allow me to try his Whitworth, to which a little bit of
+stick, as a charm to secure a correct aim, had been tied below the
+trigger-guard. This time I broke the bird's leg, and knocked him half
+out of the nest; so, running up to the king, I pointed to the charm,
+saying, That has done it--hoping to laugh him out of the folly; but he
+took my joke in earnest, and he turned to his men, commenting on the
+potency of the charm. Whilst thus engaged, I took another rifle and
+brought the bird down altogether. "Woh, woh, woh!" shouted the king;
+"Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated, leaping and clapping his hands, as
+he ran full speed to the prostrate bird, whilst the drums beat, and the
+Wakungu followed him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but we must go
+and shoot another." "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way without
+finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with. Just send for your
+telescope, and then I will show you how to look for birds." Surprised
+at this announcement, the king sent his pages flying for the instrument,
+and when it came I instructed him how to use it; when he could see with
+it, and understand its powers, his astonishment knew no bounds; and,
+turning to his Wakungu, he said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of this
+thing I have been shutting up in the palace. On that distant tree I can
+see three vultures. To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting
+inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the palace, just
+as large and distinct as if I was close by them."
+
+The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace. On
+the way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree, probably
+because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to grow groves of
+coffee-trees about his palace to improve its appearance, and supply the
+court with wholesome food--at the same time informing him that trees
+increase the falls of rain in a country, though very high ones would be
+dangerous, because they attract lightning. Next the guns must be fired
+off; and, as it would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders
+of applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder.
+
+So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had hardly
+arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for powder and shot,
+then caps, then cloth, and, everything else failing, a load of beads.
+Such are the persecutions of this negro land--the host every day must
+beg something in the most shameless manner from his guest, on the mere
+chance of gaining something gratis, though I generally gave the king
+some trifle when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must
+wait for the arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked.
+
+30th.--To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to her
+palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm friends,
+all pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed with; but, on the
+contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I sent in word to say,
+if she did not want medicine, I wished to go home, for I was tired of
+Uganda and everything belonging to it. This message brought her to her
+gate, where she stood laughing till the Wahuma girls she had promised
+me, one of twelve and the other a little older, were brought in and made
+to squat in front of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and
+beauty, very large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst
+the younger one, though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted lips,
+and laughed as if she thought the change in her destiny very good fun. I
+had now to make my selection, and took the smaller one, promising her to
+Bombay as soon as we arrived on the coast, where, he said, she would
+be considered a Hubshi or Abyssinian. But when the queen saw what I had
+done, she gave me the other as well, saying the little one was too young
+to go alone, and, if separated, she would take fright and run away. Then
+with a gracious bow I walked of with my two fine specimens of natural
+history, though I would rather have had princes, that I might have taken
+them home to be instructed in England; but the queen, as soon as we had
+cleared the palace, sent word to say she must have another parting look
+at her son with his wives. Still laughing, she said, "That will do; you
+look beautiful; now go away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing
+bitterly, the younger laughing.
+
+As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their
+histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The elder,
+whom I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the late king, as
+a wife, from Nkole; and though she was a mere Kahala, or girl, when the
+old king died, he was so attached to her he gave her twenty cows, in
+order that she might fatten up on milk after her native fashion; but on
+Sunna's death, when the establishment of women was divided, Meri fell
+to N'yamasore's (the queen's) lot. The lesser one, who still retains the
+name of Kahala, said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took
+her to N'yamasore, but what became of her father and mother she could
+not say.
+
+It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and goat's flesh
+were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine with me, and we became
+great friends, for they were assured they would finally get good houses
+and gardens at Zanzibar; but nothing would induce either of them to
+touch food that had been cooked with butter. A dish of plantains and
+goat-flesh was then prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it,
+Meri rejected the goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it
+either; and thus began a series of domestic difficulties. On inquiring
+how I could best deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma
+pride was so great, and their tempers so strong, they were more
+difficult to break in than a phunda, or donkey, though when once tamed,
+they became the best of wives.
+
+31st.--I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her charming
+present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace in search of
+food. The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared for a shooting trip,
+with his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying his rifle and ammunition,
+and a train of women behind. The first thing seen outside the palace
+gate was a herd of cows, from which four were selected and shot at fifty
+paces by the king, firing from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause
+and hand-shakings of the elders. I never saw them dare touch the king's
+hand before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a
+shot"; but I waived the offer off, saying he could kill better himself.
+Ambitious of a cut above cows, the king tried his hand at some herons
+perched on a tree, and, after five or six attempts, hit one in the eye.
+Hardly able to believe in his own skill, he stood petrified at first,
+and then ran madly to the fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this
+be?--is it true? Woh, woh!" He jumped in the air, and all his men and
+women shouted in concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my
+hands--shakes, shakes--woh, woh!--then runs to his women, then to his
+men; shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or wohing half
+enough for his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy at his own exploit.
+
+The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he retires to
+his palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen" all the way and
+boasting of his prowess. "Now, Bana, tell me--do you not think, if two
+such shots as you and I were opposed to an elephant, would he have any
+chance before us? I know I can shoot--I am certain of it now. You have
+often asked me to go hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it
+off until I learnt the way to shoot. Now, however, I can shoot--and that
+remarkably well too, I flatter myself. I will have at them, and both of
+us will go on the lake together." The palace was now reached; musicians
+were ordered to play before the king, and Wakungu appointments were
+made to celebrate the feats of the day. Then the royal cutler brought in
+dinner-knives made of iron, inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and
+goats and vegetables were presented as usual, when by torchlight we
+were dismissed, my men taking with them as many plantains as they could
+carry.
+
+1st.--I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen had set
+it apart for looking at and arranging their horns--mapembe, or fetishes,
+as the learned call such things--to see that there are no imperfections
+in the Uganga. This was something like an inquiry into the
+ecclesiastical condition of the country, while, at the same time, it
+was a religious ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first
+day after the new moon appears. This being the third moon by account, in
+pursuance of ancient customs, all the people about court, including the
+king, shaved their heads--the king, however, retaining his cockscomb,
+the pages their double cockades, and the other officers their single
+cockades on the back of the head, or either side, according to the
+official rank of each. My men were occupied making trousers for the king
+all day; whilst the pages, and those sent to learn the art of tailoring,
+instead of doing their duty, kept continually begging for something to
+present the king.
+
+2d.--The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for me
+early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a crested crane
+in her palace; but though we were there as required, we were kept
+waiting till late in the afternoon, when, instead of talking about
+shooting, as her Wakungu had forbidden her doing it, she asked after
+her two daughters--whether they had run away, or if they liked their new
+abode? I replied I was sorry circumstances did not permit my coming to
+thank her sooner, for I felt grateful beyond measure to her for having
+charmed my house with such beautiful society. I did not follow her
+advice to chain either of them with iron, for I found cords of love,
+the only instrument white men know the use of, quite strong enough.
+Fascinated with this speech, she said she would give me another of a
+middle age between the two, expecting, as I thought, that she would thus
+induce me to visit her more frequently than I did her son; but, though I
+thanked her, it frightened me from visiting her for ages after.
+
+She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's
+hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came to see
+him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly, with food;
+for he was very particular in looking after his guests' welfare, which
+is not exactly what you find the case now, I presume." The rest of the
+business of the day consisted in applications for medicine and medical
+treatment, which it was difficult satisfactorily to meet.
+
+3d.--To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with deoles
+to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large sixty-dollar silk I
+had given him to cover the chair with. The king likes rich colours, and
+I was solemnly informed that he will never wear anything but clothes
+like Bana.
+
+4th.--By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and found
+the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon, with all heads
+shaved in the manner I have mentioned. Soon rising, he showed the way
+through the palace to a pond, which is described as his bathing N'yanza,
+his women attending, and pages leading the way with his guns. From
+this we passed on to a jungle lying between the palace hill and
+another situated at the northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes
+frequently lie concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but
+as none could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace.
+He showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats, which
+are private observatories, from which the surrounding country can be
+seen. By the side of these observatories are huts, smaller than the
+ordinary ones used for residing in, where the king, after the exertion
+of "looking out," takes his repose. Here he ordered fruit to be
+brought--the Matunguru, a crimson pod filled with acid seeds, which
+has only been observed growing by the rivers or waters of Uganda--and
+Kasori, a sort of liquorice-root. He then commenced eating with us, and
+begging again, unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him
+see the absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without
+the least effect. In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration, and
+asked me, in the simplest manner possible, if I would like to possess
+a charm; and even when I said "No, I should be afraid of provoking
+Lubari's" (God's) "anger if I did so," he only wondered at my obstinacy,
+so thoroughly was he wedded to his belief. He then called for his
+wideawake, and walked with us into another quarter of his palace,
+when he entered a dressing-hut, followed by a number of full-grown,
+stark-naked women, his valets; at the same time ordering a large body
+of women to sit on one side the entrance, whilst I, with Bombay, were
+directed to sit on the other, waiting till he was ready to hold another
+levee. From this, we repaired to the great throne-hut, where all his
+Wakungu at once formed court, and business was commenced. Amongst other
+things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the Buffalo, who had been sent on
+a wild-goose chase to look after Mr Petherick, described a journey he
+had made, following down the morning sun. After he had passed the limits
+of plantain-eating men, he came upon men who lived upon meat alone, who
+never wore mbugus, but either cloth or skins, and instead of the spear
+they used the double-edged sime. He called the people Wasewe, and their
+chief Kisawa; but the company pronounced them to be Masawa (Masai).
+
+After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with their
+faces blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their heads, each
+holding up a stick in his hand in place of a spear, under the regulation
+that no person is permitted to carry weapons of any sort in the palace.
+They were led by an officer, who, standing like a captain before his
+company, ordered them to jump and praise the king, acting the part of
+fugleman himself. Then said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you
+I had sent many men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the
+rest are coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in
+a body to fight in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then
+presented; and, finally a large body of officers came in with an old
+man, with his two ears shorn off for having been too handsome in
+his youth, and a young woman who, after four days' search, had been
+discovered in his house. They were brought for judgment before the king.
+
+Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said he had
+lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search, had found
+her concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough to be her
+grandfather. From all appearances one would have said the wretched girl
+had run away from the plaintiff's house in consequence of ill treatment,
+and had harboured herself on this decrepid old man without asking
+his leave; but their voices in defence were never heard, for the king
+instantly sentenced both to death, to prevent the occurrence of such
+impropriety again; and, to make the example more severe, decreed that
+their lives should not be taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life
+as long as possible, they were to be dismembered bit by bit, as rations
+for the vultures, every day, until life was extinct. The dismayed
+criminals, struggling to be heard, in utter despair, were dragged away
+boisterously in the most barbarous manner, to the drowning music of the
+milele and drums.
+
+The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus enacted,
+immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for shooting, Bana;
+let us look at your gun." It happened to be loaded, but fortunately only
+with powder, to fire my announcement at the palace; for he instantly
+placed caps on the nipples, and let off one barrel by accident, the
+contents of which stuck in the thatch. This created a momentary alarm,
+for it was supposed the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner
+suppressed than the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to
+astonish his officers still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder,
+fired the contents of the second barrel into the faces of his squatting
+Wakungu, and then laughed at his own trick. In the meanwhile cows were
+driven in, which the king ordered his Wakungu to shoot with carbines;
+and as they missed them, he showed them the way to shoot with the
+Whitworth, never missing. The company now broke up, but I still clung
+to the king, begging him to allow me to purchase food with beads, as I
+wanted it, for my establishment was always more or less in a starving
+state; but he only said, "Let us know what you want and you shall always
+have it"; which, in Uganda, I knew from experience only meant, Don't
+bother me any more, but give me your spare money, and help yourself from
+my spacious gardens--Uganda is before you.
+
+5th--To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and therefore
+neither of them could be seen by visitors. I took a stroll towards the
+N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves occupied by the king's
+women, where my man Sangoro had been twice taken up by the Mgemma
+and put in the stocks. The plantain gardens were beautifully kept by
+numerous women, who all ran away from fright at seeing me, save one who,
+taken by surprise, threw herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up
+in her mbugu, and, kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help,
+until I poked her up, and reproached her for her folly. This little
+incident made my fairies bolder, and, sidling up to me one by one, they
+sat in a knot with me upon the ground; then clasping their heads with
+their hands, they woh-wohed in admiration of the white man; they never
+in all their lives saw anything so wonderful; his wife and children must
+be like him; what would not Sunna have given for such a treat?--but it
+was destined to Mtesa's lot. What is the interpretation of this sign, if
+it does not point to the favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits?
+I wished to go, but no: "Stop a little more," they said, all in a
+breath, or rather out of breath in their excitement; "remove the hat
+and show the hair; take off the shoes and tuck up the trousers; what on
+earth is kept in the pockets? Oh, wonder of wonders!--and the iron!"
+As I put the watch close to the ear of one of them, "Tick, tick,
+ticks--woh, woh, woh"--everybody must hear it; and then the works had
+to be seen. "Oh, fearful!" said one, "hide your faces: it is the Lubari.
+Shut it up, Bana, shut it up; we have seen enough; but you will come
+again and bring us beads." So ended the day's work.
+
+6th.--To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food. Though rain fell
+in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving appointments,
+plantations, and women, according to merit, to his officers. As one
+officer, to whom only one woman was given, asked for more, the king
+called him an ingrate, and ordered him to be cut to pieces on the spot;
+and the sentence was, as Bombay told me, carried into effect--not with
+knives, for they are prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass,
+after the executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered
+behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club.
+
+No food, however, was given to my men, though the king, anticipating
+Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of butter, and one of
+coffee. My residence in Uganda became much more merry now, for all the
+women of the camp came daily to call on my two little girls; during
+which time they smoked my tobacco, chewed my coffee, drank my pombe,
+and used to amuse me with queer stories of their native land. Rozaro's
+sister also came, and proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a
+brutal man; he killed one of his women because he did not like her, and
+now he had clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to
+run away from him; and when abused for his brutality, he only replied,
+"It was no fault of his, as the king set the example in the country."
+
+In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf, and
+in company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens to my fair
+friends of yesterday. Everybody was surprised. The Mgemma begged us
+to sit with him and drink pombe, which he generously supplied to our
+heart's content; wondered at the beauty of Kahala, wished I would give
+him a wife like her, and lamented that the king would not allow his
+to wear such pretty clothes. We passed on a little farther, and were
+invited to sit with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew
+coffee--which we did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all
+Waganda, instructed by the court, know the art of flattery better than
+any people in the world, even including the French.
+
+7th.--In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say that
+he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join him. After
+walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a plantain garden,
+dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and all, the perfect picture
+of a snob. He sent me a pot of pombe, which I sent home to the women,
+and walked off for the shooting-ground, two miles further on, the band
+playing in the front, followed by some hundred Wakungu--then the pages,
+then the king, next myself, and finally the women--the best in front,
+the worst bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as
+also pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without. It was easy
+to see there would be no sport, still more useless of offer any remarks,
+therefore all did as they were bid. The broad road, like all in Uganda,
+went straight over hill and dale, the heights covered with high grass
+or plantain groves, and the valleys with dense masses of magnificent
+forest-trees surrounding swamps covered with tall rushes half bridged.
+Proceeding on, as we came to the first water, I commenced flirtations
+with Mtesa's women, much to the surprise of the king and every one. The
+bridge was broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed
+it, lying concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the
+leading men, that those who followed should not be tripped up by them.
+This favour the king did for me, and I in return for the women behind;
+they had never been favoured in their lives with such gallantry, and
+therefore could not refrain from laughing, which attracted the king's
+notice and set everybody in a giggle; for till now no mortal man had
+ever dared communicate with his women.
+
+Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards, passed
+through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the Murchison
+Creek, cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one occasion I offered, by
+dumb signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-back over, and after crossing a
+second myself by a floating log, offered my hand. The leading wife first
+fears to take it, then grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty,
+Lubuga, following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the
+white man is like, with an imploring face holds out both her hands in
+such a captivating manner, that though I feared to draw attention by
+waiting any longer, I could not resist compliance. The king noticed it;
+but instead of upbraiding me, passed it off as a joke, and running up to
+the Kamraviona, gave him a poke in the ribs, and whispered what he had
+seen, as if it had been a secret. "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what
+wonders will happen next?"
+
+We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save some
+old footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching them. By
+this time the king was tired; and as he saw me searching for a log to
+sit upon, he made one of his pages kneel upon all fours and sat upon his
+back, acting the monkey in aping myself; for otherwise he would have sat
+on a mbugu, in his customary manner, spread on the ground. We returned,
+pushing along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough
+confusion, for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has learned
+to play successfully. Leaving the road and plunging into thickets of
+tall grass, the band and Wakungu must run for their lives, to maintain
+the order of march, by heading him at some distant point of exit from
+the jungle; whilst the Kamraviona, leading the pages and my men, must
+push head first, like a herd of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting
+grass, at a sufficient rate to prevent the royal walk from being
+impeded; and the poor women, ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be
+kept in their places by fear of losing their lives.
+
+We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these tricks,
+and played them incessantly till near sundown, when we entered the
+palace. Then the women and Wakungu separating from us, we--that is, the
+king, the Kamraviona, pages, and myself--sat down to a warm feast of
+sweet potatoes and plantains, ending with pombe and fruit, whilst
+moist circular napkins, made in the shape of magnificent wafers out of
+plantain fibre, acted at once both the part of water and towel. This
+over, as the guns had to be emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste
+the bullets, four cows were ordered in and shot by the king. Thus ended
+the day, my men receiving one of the cows.
+
+8th.--As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not see
+anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to give a
+return to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His household men and
+women were immensely delighted with us, but more so, they said, for the
+honour of the visit. They gave us more pombe, and introduced us to one
+of N'yamasore's numerous sisters, who was equally charmed with myself
+and my children. The Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly,
+he said, for he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that
+I might carry them away. When I refused this offer, because we came to
+see him, and not to rob him, he thought it the most beautiful language,
+and said he would bring them to the house himself. I added, I hoped he
+would do so in company with his wife, which he promised, though he never
+dared fulfil the promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to
+escort us beyond the premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians
+passed the camp, I ordered them in to play the milele, and give my men
+and children a treat of dancing. The performers received a bundle of
+beads and went away happy.
+
+9th.--I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the king, as
+usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds with.
+
+10th.--In consequence of my having explained to the king the effect of
+the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he sent a number of
+earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might produce some spirits for
+him; but as the pots sent were not made after the proper fashion, I
+called at the palace and waited all day in the hope of seeing him. No
+one, however, dared enter his cabinet, where he had been practising
+"Uganga" all day, and so the pombe turned sour and useless. Such are the
+ways of Uganda all over.
+
+11th.--The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be done, I
+invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton breakfast, and
+teach my child Meri not to be so proud. In this we were successful; but
+whether her head had been turned, as Bombay thought, or what else, we
+know not; but she would neither walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie
+at full length all day long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence.
+
+12th.--I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it to him
+in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival. He was not visible,
+while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and presently a beautiful
+woman, one of the king's sisters, with cockscomb erect, was dragged out
+to execution, bewailing and calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and
+Mzungu, by turns, to save her life. Would to God I could have done it!
+but I did not know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore
+had to hold my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present,
+looked on with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest remark.
+It happened that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber at this time;
+and as Maula came with my party, they had a fight in respect to their
+merits for having brought welcome guests to their king. Mtesa, it was
+argued, had given N'yamgundu more women and men than he did to Maula,
+because he was the first to bring intelligence of our coming, as well as
+that of K'yengo, and Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he
+superseded Maula by taking me out of his charge, and had done a further
+good service by sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and
+K'yengo.
+
+Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally done
+nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and finally had
+brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. This, Irungu
+said, was an injustice he would not stand; N'yamgundu fairly earned his
+reward, but Maula must have been tricking to get more than himself. He
+would get a suitable offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court
+the first opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I
+will give him more wires than you, and then let us see who will win the
+king's ear." Upon this the two great children began collecting wire and
+quarrelling until the sun went down, and I went home. I did not return
+to a quiet dinner, as I had hoped, but to meet the summons of the king.
+Thinking it policy to obey, I found him waiting my coming in the palace.
+He made apologies for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits
+resembling toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling. He imbibed it
+with great surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more;
+and, for the purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of an old
+Brown Bess musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the morning.
+
+13th.--As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in the
+Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little woman, Kariana,
+wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was returning from a visit. At
+first she came trotting after me, then timidly paused, then advanced,
+and, as I approached, stood spellbound at my remarkable appearance. At
+last recovering herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda
+woman, and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the
+contents of my pockets--everything; but that was not enough. I waved
+adieu, but still she followed. I offered my arm, showing her how to
+take it in European fashion, and we walked along to the surprise of
+everybody, as if we had been in Hyde Park rather than in Central Africa,
+flirting and coquetting all the way. I was surprised that no one came to
+prevent her forwardness; but not till I almost reached home did any one
+appear; and then, with great scolding, she was ordered to return--not,
+however, without her begging I would call in and see her on some future
+occasion, when she would like to give me some pombe.
+
+14th.--As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very
+courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him. I passed the day
+in distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs Dumba, with Meri,
+Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. She was very agreeable;
+but as her husband was attending the palace, could not give pombe, and
+instead gave my female escort sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes,
+signifying a dinner, and walked half-way home, flirting with me as
+before.
+
+15th--I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as well as
+the saccharine residue. We found him holding a levee, and receiving
+his offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and other things of an
+ordinary nature. One of the goats presented gave me an opportunity of
+hearing one of the strangest stories I had yet heard in this strange
+country: it was a fine for attempted regicide, which happened yesterday,
+when a boy, finding the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to
+him and threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of
+men unjustly. The king explained by description and pantomime how
+the affair passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his hand the
+revolving pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding the pistol to
+his cheek, how he had presented the muzzle to the boy, which, though
+it was unloaded, so frightened him that he ran away. All the courtiers
+n'yanzigged vigorously for the condescension of the king in telling the
+story. There must have been some special reason why, in a court where
+trifling breaches of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so
+grave a crime should have been so leniently dealt with; but I could
+not get at the bottom of the affair. The culprit, a good-looking young
+fellow of sixteen or seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his
+n'yanzigs, stroked the goat and his own face with his hands, n'yanzigged
+again with prostrations, and retired.
+
+After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two white
+men had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like myself, the other
+smooth-faced. I jumped at this news, and said, "Of course, they are
+there; do let me send a letter to them." I believed it to be Petherick
+and a companion whom I knew he was to bring with him. The king, however,
+damped my ardour by saying the information was not perfect, and we must
+wait until certain Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned.
+
+16th.--The regions about the palace were all in a state of commotion
+to-day, men and women running for their lives in all directions,
+followed by Wakungu and their retainers. The cause of all this commotion
+was a royal order to seize sundry refractory Wakungu, with their
+property, wives, concubines--if such a distinction can be made in this
+country--and families all together. At the palace Mtesa had a musical
+party, playing the flute occasionally himself. After this he called me
+aside, and said, "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have
+often proposed doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have
+little opportunity for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost in his
+mind, I begged him to put whatever questions he liked, and he should be
+answered seriatim--hoping to find him inquisitive on foreign matters;
+but nothing was more foreign to his mind: none of his countrymen ever
+seemed to think beyond the sphere of Uganda.
+
+The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and effects of
+diseases. Cholera, for instance, very much affected the land at certain
+seasons, creating much mortality, and vanishing again as mysteriously as
+it came. What brought this scourge? and what would cure it? Supposing
+a man had a headache, what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a
+stomach-ache, or itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease
+he knew, until, exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into
+particulars in which he was personally much interested; but I was
+unfortunately unable to prescribe medicines which produce the physical
+phenomenon next to his heart.
+
+17th.--I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large court,
+where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to execution, received
+their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and young damsels--their
+daughters. A variety of charms, amongst which were some bits of stick
+strung on leather and covered with serpent-skin, were presented and
+approved of. Kaggao, a large district officer, considered the second
+in rank here, received permission for me to call upon him with my
+medicines. I pressed the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's
+to call Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but
+finally he yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador, for the
+service. Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a select party
+of Wakungu, headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a conversation on the
+subject which is ever uppermost with the king and his courtiers.
+
+18th.--To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest. He had a local
+disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a different cause
+was sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine such as I gave Mkuenda,
+who reported that I gave him a most wonderful draught. Unfortunately I
+had nothing suitable to give my new patient, but cautioned him to have a
+care lest contagion should run throughout his immense establishment,
+and explained the whole of the circumstances to him. Still he was not
+satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would only
+cure him. He was a very great man, as I could see, with numerous houses,
+numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so that it was ill-becoming of
+him to be without his usual habits. Rejecting his munificent offers, I
+gave him a cooling dose of calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe,
+and pronounced beautiful--holding up his hands, and repeating the words
+"Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is Bana
+beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine beautiful!"--and,
+saying this, led us in to see his women, who at my request were grouped
+in war apparel--viz., a dirk fastened to the waist by many strings of
+coloured beads. There were from fifty to sixty women present, all very
+lady-like, but none of them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had
+told all his Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to
+see if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give me
+an estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity, so that,
+if I ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have something to come
+back to; so I might now know what my fate was to be. Before leaving,
+Kaggao presented us with two cows and ten baskets of potatoes.
+
+19th.--I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of beads of
+sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to show himself off
+to his mother dressed Bana fashion. In the evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's
+brother, just returned from the Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I
+was at dinner. Not knowing who he was, and surprised at such audacity in
+Uganda, for he was the first officer who ever ventured to come near
+me in this manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in
+the repast, which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he
+apologised immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to the
+etiquette of Uganda society, in coming to a house when the master was
+at dinner; and he would have left again had I not pressed him to remain.
+Katunzi then told me the whole army had returned from Unyoro, with
+immense numbers of cows, women, and children, but not men, for those
+who did not run away were killed fighting. He offered me a present of a
+woman, and pressed me to call on him.
+
+20th.--Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for the
+Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it. Fortunately he asked me
+to speak a sentence in English, that he might hear how it sounds; and
+this gave me an opportunity of saying, if he had kept his promise by
+sending Budja to me, I should have despatched letters to Petherick. This
+was no sooner interpreted than he said, if I would send my men to him
+with letters in the morning he would forward them on, accompanied with
+an army. On my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in
+short, "First to feel the way." On hearing this, I strongly advised him,
+if he wished the road to be kept permanently open, to try conciliation
+with Kamrasi, and send him some trifling present.
+
+Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and execution,
+which the king, who of late had been trying to learn Kisuahili, in order
+that we might be able to converse together, asked me, in that language,
+if I would like to have some of these women; and if so, how many? On my
+replying "One," he begged me to have my choice, and a very pretty one
+was selected. God only knows what became of the rest; but the one I
+selected, on reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife.
+He and all the other household servants were much delighted with this
+charming acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had been
+selected, had flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife, and became
+immensely indignant at the supposed transfer, though from the first I
+had intended her for Ilmas, not only to favour him for his past good
+services, but as an example to my other men, as I had promised to give
+them all, provided they behaved well upon the journey, a "free-man's
+garden," with one wife each and a purse of money, to begin a new life
+upon, as soon as they reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala
+was shown in a very forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an
+addition to my family, called her into the hut and chatted till
+midnight, instructing her not to wed with Ilmas; and then, instead of
+turning into bed as usual, they all three slept upon the ground. My
+patience could stand this phase of henpecking no longer, so I called
+in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had selected for their
+governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put them to bed
+"bundling."
+
+21st.--In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the king
+invited me to join him at some new tank he was making between his
+palace and the residence of his brothers. I found him sitting with his
+brothers, all playing in concert on flutes. I asked him, in Kisuahili,
+if he knew where Grant was? On replying in the negative, I proposed
+sending a letter, which he approved of; and Budja was again ordered to
+go with an army for Petherick.
+
+22d.--Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick, and
+three more men, with another letter to Grant. I called on the king,
+who appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of three days'
+hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza.
+
+23d.--To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious
+restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king. At noon, pages
+hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and wished me to
+follow him without delay. N'yanza, as I have mentioned, merely means a
+piece of water, whether a pond, river, or lake; and as no one knew which
+N'yanza he meant, or what project was on foot, I started off in a hurry,
+leaving everything behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over
+hills, and across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison
+Creek, till 3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his
+Wakungu in front and women behind, travelling along in the confused
+manner of a pack of hounds, occasionally firing his rifle that I might
+know his whereabouts. He had just, it seems, mingled a little business
+with pleasure; for noticing, as he passed, a woman tied by the hands to
+be punished for some offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he
+took the executioner's duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her
+outright.
+
+On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their readiness
+to serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the three days'
+excursion on the lake one day before the appointed time, expecting
+everybody to fall into place by magic, without the smallest regard to
+each one's property, feelings, or comfort. The home must be forsaken
+without a last adieu, the dinner untasted, and no provision made for the
+coming night, in order that his impetuous majesty should not suffer one
+moment's disappointment. The result was natural; many who would have
+come were nowhere to be found; my guns, bed, bedding, and note-books,
+as well as cooking utensils, were all left behind, and, though sent for,
+did not arrive till the following day.
+
+On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found, nor
+did any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of drums and
+firing of guns, some fifty large ones appeared. They were all painted
+with red clay, and averaged from ten to thirty paddles, with long prows
+standing out like the neck of a syphon or swan, decorated on the head
+with the horns of the Nsunnu (lencotis) antelope, between which was
+stuck upright a tuft of feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume. These
+arrived to convey us across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the
+royal yachting establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours'
+travelling from the palace. We reached the Cowes by torchlight at 9
+p.m., when the king had a picnic dinner with me, turned in with his
+women in great comfort, and sent me off to a dreary hut, where I had to
+sleep upon a grass-strew floor. I was surprised we had to walk so far,
+when, by appearance, we might have boated it from the head of the creek
+all the way down; but, on inquiry, was informed of the swampy nature of
+the ground at the head of the creek precluded any approach to the
+clear water there, and hence the long overland journey, which, though
+fatiguing to the unfortunate women, who had to trot the whole way behind
+Mtesa's four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing. The whole of the
+scenery--hill, dale, and lake--was extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in
+my escort compared the view to their own beautiful Poani (coast); but in
+my opinion it far surpassed anything I ever saw, either from the sea or
+upon the coast of Zanzibar.
+
+The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very
+uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats.
+The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of
+roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes
+ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked--but more usually like
+a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would
+take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged,
+and swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over
+was then divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe
+served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think
+themselves very lucky if they ever got a drop of it.
+
+Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way
+he can--Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through
+plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in
+diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached--a picture of the Rio
+scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that
+lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little
+hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo,
+playing with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work,
+announced the king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the
+shore--but not as in England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a
+lord at home, invites the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of
+so many pretty faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
+written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the water--ducking
+his head for fear of being accused of gazing on the fair sex, which
+is death--and bides patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain
+leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and
+wideawake, conducted the arrangements, ordering all to their proper
+places--the women, in certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others,
+whilst I sat in the same boat with him at his feet, three women holding
+mbugus of pombe behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he
+was prompt in carrying out the directions he got from myself to approach
+the hippopotami. But the waters were too large and the animals too shy,
+so we toiled all the day without any effect, going only once ashore
+to picnic; not for the women to eat--for they, poor things, got
+nothing--but the king, myself, the pages, and the principal Wakungu.
+As a wind-up to the day's amusement, the king led the band of drums,
+changed the men according to their powers, put them into concert pitch,
+and readily detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a
+thorough musician.
+
+This day requires no remark, everything done being the counterpart
+of yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder with me
+in consequence of our talking together, became more playful and
+familiar--amusing himself, for instance, sometimes by catching hold of
+my beard as the rolling of the boat unsteadied him.
+
+We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and down the
+creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring from want of
+sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling and steering himself
+with a pair of new white paddles, finally directing the boats to
+an island occupied by the Mgussa, or Neptune of the N'yanza, not in
+person--for Mgussa is a spirit--but by his familiar or deputy, the great
+medium who communicates the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda.
+In another sense, he might be said to be the presiding priest of the
+source of the mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting
+person for me to meet. The first operation on shore was picnicking, when
+many large bugus of pombe were brought for the king; next, the whole
+party took a walk, winking through the trees, and picking fruit,
+enjoying themselves amazingly, till, by some unlucky chance, one of the
+royal wives, a most charming creature, and truly one of the best of the
+lot, plucked a fruit and offered it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to
+please him greatly; but he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion,
+said it was the first time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him
+anything, and ordered the pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to
+execution.
+
+These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy of
+pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed, like a
+pack of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little
+urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and
+tried to beat them off like flies, but was soon captured, overcome,
+and dragged away, crying, in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu
+(myself), for help and protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister,
+and all the other women, clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling,
+implored forgiveness for their sister. The more they craved for mercy,
+the more brutal he became, till at last he took a heavy stick and began
+to belabour the poor victim on the head.
+
+Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any of the
+king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such interference, at
+an early stage, would produce more harm than good. This last act of
+barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood to stand; and as
+I heard my name, Mzungu, imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king,
+and, staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life.
+Of course I ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the
+capricious tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. The
+novelty of interference even made him smile, and the woman was instantly
+released.
+
+Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next turned
+into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the farther end was
+decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others a paddle, the badge
+of his high office--and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe was
+brought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wichwezi
+fashion, with a little white goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous
+charms, and used a paddle for a mace or walking stick. He was not an old
+man, though he affected to be so--walking very slowly and deliberately,
+coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and mumbling like a
+witch. With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of the hut beside
+the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full half an hour,
+when his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a word, and
+assumed the same affected style. The king jokingly looked at me and
+laughed, and then at these strange creatures, by turn, as much as to
+say, What do you think of them? but no voice was heard save that of the
+old wife, who croaked like a frog for water, and, when some was brought,
+croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce--had
+the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away
+in the same manner as she came.
+
+At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona and
+several officers to draw around him, when, in a very low tone, he gave
+them all the orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations seemed
+unpropitious, for we immediately repaired to our boats and returned to
+our quarters. Here we no sooner arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately
+returned from the Unyoro war, came to pay their respects to the king:
+they had returned six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their
+approaching majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their
+losses, nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting. To these
+men the king narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more
+particularly on my defending his wife's life, whom he had destined for
+execution. This was highly approved of by all; and they unanimously said
+Bana knew what he was about, because he dispenses justice like a king in
+his own country.
+
+Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the Wanguana
+had been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the slightest regard
+to decency. We went boating as usual all day long, sometimes after
+hippopotami, at others racing up and down the lake, the king and Wakungu
+paddling and steering by turns, the only break to this fatigue being
+when we went ashore to picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums.
+During the evening some of the principal Wakungu were collected
+to listen to an intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the
+different women in the royal establishment, and the king in good-honour
+described the benefits he had derived from this pleasant tour on the
+water.
+
+Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to the
+king, he went off boating without me; and as the few remaining boats
+would not take me off because they had received no orders to do so, I
+fired guns, but, getting no reply, went into the country hoping to find
+game; but, disappointed in that also, I spent the first half of the day
+with a hospitable old lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe
+in her house--for the king's servants had robbed her of nearly
+everything--smoked her pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the
+honour paid her by the white king's visit, as well as of the horrors
+of Uganda punishment, when my servants told her I saved the life of
+one queen. Returning homewards, the afternoon was spent at a hospitable
+officer's, who would not allow us to depart until my men were all
+fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting in warned us to wend our
+way. On arrival at camp, the king, quite shocked with himself for having
+deserted me, asked me if I did not hear his guns fire. He had sent
+twenty officers to scour the country, looking for me everywhere. He had
+been on the lake the whole day himself, and was now amusing his officers
+with a little archery practice, even using the bow himself, and making
+them shoot by turns. A lucky shot brought forth immense applause, all
+jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it was done by their own
+bows or the king's.
+
+A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they were
+such bad shots that they hardly ever hit it. Now tired of this slow
+sport, and to show his superior prowess, the king ordered sixteen
+shields to be placed before him, one in front of the other, and with
+one shot from Whitworth pierced the whole of them, the bullet passing
+through the bosses of nearly every one. "Ah!" says the king, strutting
+about with gigantic strides, and brandishing the rifle over his head
+before all his men, "what is the use of spears and bows? I shall never
+fight with anything but guns in the future." These Wakungu, having only
+just then returned from plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their
+king in a chair, or anybody sitting, as I was, by his side; and it
+being foreign to their notions, as well as, perhaps, unpleasant to
+their feelings, to find a stranger sitting higher than themselves, they
+complained against this outrage to custom, and induced the king to order
+my dethronement. The result was, as my iron stool was objectionable, I
+stood for a moment to see that I thoroughly understood their meaning;
+and then showing them my back, walked straightway home to make a grass
+throne, and dodge them that way.
+
+There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this morning,
+yet no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was falling, and the
+king was shut up with his women. Presently the thought struck me that
+the rifle, which was always infallible in gaining me admittance at the
+palace, might be of the same service now. I therefore shot a dove close
+to the royal abode, and, as I expected, roused the king at once,
+who sent his pages to know what the firing was about. When told the
+truth--that I had been trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast,
+as I could get neither meat nor drink from his kitchen--the head boy,
+rather guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my
+message, and said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular supply
+of food from his house, I did not wish to accept anything further at his
+hands, but intended foraging for the future in the jungles. The king, as
+might be imagined, did not believe the boy's story, and sent other pages
+to ascertain the truth of the case, bidding them listen well, and beware
+of what they were about. This second lot of boys conveyed the story
+rightly, when the king sent me a cow. As I afterwards heard, he cut
+off the ears of the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a
+proper use of those organs; and then, as the lad was the son of one
+of his own officers he was sent home to have the sores healed. After
+breakfast the king called me to go boating, when I used my grass throne,
+to the annoyance of the attendants. This induced the king to say before
+them, laughing, "Bana, you see, is not to be done; he is accustomed to
+sit before kings, and sit he will." Then by way of a change, he ordered
+all the drums to embark and play upon the waters; whilst he and his
+attendants paddled and steered by turns, first up the creek, and then
+down nearly to the broad waters of the lake.
+
+There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga, but very
+circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the way the Kitiri
+island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known to the Waganda, though
+boats went sometimes coasting down the western side of the lake to
+Ukerewe. The largest island on the lake is the Sese, [20] off the mouth
+of the Katonga river, where another of the high priests of the Neptune
+of the N'yanza resides. The king's largest vessels are kept there, and
+it is famous for its supply of mbugu barks. We next went on shore to
+picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig, and
+a pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king. I now advised
+boat-racing, which was duly ordered, and afforded much amusement as the
+whole fifty boats formed in line, and paddle furiously to the beat of
+drum to the goal which I indicated.
+
+The day was done. In great glee the king, ever much attached to the
+blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories, appointed him
+to the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of Wakungu; observing that,
+after the return of so many officers from war, much business in that
+line would naturally have to be done, and there was none so trustworthy
+now at court to carry out the king's orders. All now went to the camp;
+but what was my astonishment on reaching the hut to find every
+servant gone, along with the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in
+consequence of the king's having taken the drums on board, which, being
+unusual, was regarded as one of his delusive tricks, and a sign of
+immediate departure. He had told no one he was going to the N'yanza,
+and now it was thought he would return in the same way. I fired for my
+supper, but fired in vain. Boys came out, by the king's order to inquire
+what I wanted, but left again without doing anything further.
+
+At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one that
+left, or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of March, and he
+then ordered the return home, much to my delight; for, beautiful as the
+N'yanza was, the want of consideration for other people's comfort, the
+tiring, incessant boating, all day long and every day, in the sun, as
+well as the king's hurry-scurry about everything he undertook to do,
+without the smallest forethought, preparation, or warning, made me
+dream of my children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them.
+Strange as it may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal love
+for those little blackamoors as if they had been my offspring; and I
+enjoyed the simple stories that their sable visitors told me every day
+they came over to smoke their pipes, which they did with the utmost
+familiarity, helping themselves from my stores just as they liked.
+
+Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we had
+come, at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared, when the
+king said, laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"--a ridiculous question
+after twenty-four hours of starvation, which he knew full well--and led
+the way into a plantain-grove, where the first hut that was found was
+turned inside out for the king's accommodation, and picnic was prepared.
+As, however, he ordered my portion to be given outside with the pages',
+and allowed neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked
+hurriedly home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to
+see us, but Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess,
+was full of smiles and conversation. She declared Meri had neither
+tasted food or slept since my departure, but had been retching all the
+time. Dreadfully concerned at the doleful story I immediately thought
+of giving relief with medicines, but neither pulse, tongue, nor anything
+else indicated the slightest disorder; and to add to these troubles,
+Ilmas's woman had tried during my absence to hang herself, because she
+would not serve as servant but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife,
+after taking a doze of quinine, was delivered of a still-born child.
+
+1st.--I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-chest. He
+had caught a cold. He showed me several of his women grievously affected
+with boils, and expected me to cure them at once. I then went home,
+and found twenty men who had passed Grant, coming on a stretcher from
+Karague, without any of the rear property. Meri, still persistent,
+rejected strengthening medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if
+I would give her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in
+no time. There was something in her manner when she said this that I did
+not like--it looked suspicious; and I contented myself by saying, "No,
+I am a wiser doctor than any in these lands; if anybody could cure you,
+that person is myself: and further, if I gave you a goat to sacrifice,
+God would be angry with both of us for our superstitious credulity; you
+must therefore say no more about it."
+
+2d.--The whole country around the palace was in a state of commotion
+to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those officers who had
+returned from the war, yet had not paid their respects to the king at
+the N'yanza, because they thought they would not be justified in calling
+on him so quickly after their arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of
+this, was full of beef and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women,
+and children, with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in
+England, waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon
+them as the price of their release. After anxiously watching, I found
+out that Meri was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to
+live in my house; and, to conquer my resolution against it--although I
+ordered it with a view to please Ilmas, for he was desperately in love
+with her--she made herself sick by putting her finger down her throat. I
+scolded her for her obstinacy. She said she was ill--it was not feigned;
+and if I would give her a goat to sacrifice she would be well at once;
+for she had looked into the magic horn already, and discovered that if
+I have her a goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her,
+and her health would be restored to her at once. Hallo! Here was a
+transformation from the paternal position into that of a henpecked
+husband! Somebody, I smelt at once, had been tampering with my household
+whilst I was away. I commenced investigations, and after a while found
+out that Rozaro's sister had brought a magician belonging to her family
+into the hut during my absence, who had put Meri up to this trick of
+extorting a goat from me, in order that he might benefit by it himself,
+for the magician eats the sacrifice, and keeps the skin.
+
+I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-staff,
+whilst Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to witness the
+process of investigation. Rozaro flew into a passion, and tried
+to release the magician as soon as he saw him, affecting intense
+indignation that I should take the law into my own hands when one of
+Rumanika's subjects was accused; but only lost his dignity still more on
+being told he had acknowledged his inability to control his men so
+often when they had misbehaved, that I scorned to ask his assistance any
+longer. He took huff at this, and, as he could not help himself, walked
+away, leaving us to do as we liked. The charge was fully proved. The
+impudent magician, without leave, and contrary to all the usages of the
+country, had entered and set my house against itself during my absence,
+and had schemed to rob me of a goat. I therefore sentenced him to fifty
+lashes--twenty-five for the injury he had inflicted on my by working up
+a rebellion in my house, and the remaining twenty-five for attempting
+larceny--saying, as he had wanted my goat and its skin, so now in
+return I wanted his skin. These words were no sooner pronounced than the
+wretched Meri cried out against it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let
+the stick skin my back, but spare my doctor; it would kill me to see him
+touched."
+
+This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole matter too
+deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill. I therefore dismissed her
+on the spot, and gave her, as a sister and free woman, to Uledi and his
+pretty Mhmula wife, giving Bombay orders to carry the sentences into
+execution. After walking about till after dark, on returning to the
+empty house, I had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of
+abandoning one so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world.
+Ilmas's woman also ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's
+sister, for she had been denied any further access to the house as being
+at the bottom of all this mischief.
+
+3d.--I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the morning
+sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical presents,
+including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket, as a sign of
+mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of tobacco, in proof
+of my forgiveness.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIV. Palace, Uganda--Continued
+
+Reception of a Victorious Army at Court--Royal Sport--A Review of the
+Troops--Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the Nile--Grant's
+Return--Pillagings--Court Marriages--The King's Brothers--Divinations
+and Sacrifices--The Road granted at last--The Preparations for
+continuing the Expedition--The Departure.
+
+I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat from
+Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the welcome news to
+the king. The road to the palace I found thronged with people; and
+in the square outside the entrance there squatted a multitude of
+attendants, headed by the king, sitting on a cloth, dressed in his
+national costume, with two spears and a shield by his side. On his right
+hand the pages sat waiting for orders, while on his left there was a
+small squatting cluster of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant
+sorceresses, offering pombe. In front of the king, in form of a hollow
+square, many ranks deep, sat the victorious officers, lately returned
+from the war, variously dressed; the nobles distinguished by their
+leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners by coloured mbugu and cow
+or antelope skin cloaks; but all their faces and arms were painted red,
+black, or smoke-colour. Within the square of men, immediately fronting
+the king, the war-arms of Uganda were arranged in three ranks; the great
+war-drum, covered with a leopard-skin, and standing on a large carpeting
+of them, was placed in advance; behind this, propped or hung on a
+rack of iron, were a variety of the implements of war in common use,
+offensive and defensive, as spears--of which two were of copper, the
+rest iron--and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the last row or
+lot were arranged systematically, with great taste and powerful effect,
+the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda, consisting of charms of
+various descriptions and in great numbers. Outside the square again, in
+a line with the king, were the household arms, a very handsome copper
+kettledrum, of French manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge with
+pretty little brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper wire,
+two new spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various
+devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins--the whole scene giving
+the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost magnificence.
+
+Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some slight
+sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit beyond the women.
+The whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage were now obvious. Each
+regimental commandant in turn narrated the whole services of his party,
+distinguishing those subs who executed his orders well and successfully
+from those who either deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up
+their success. The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose,
+very shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded
+pombe, helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has
+n'yanzigged for vehemently; and to the unworthy execution. When the
+fatal sentence was pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the convict
+wrestling and defying, whilst the other men seized, pulled and tore the
+struggling wretch from the crowd, bound him hands and head together, and
+led or rather tumbled him away.
+
+After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me to
+follow him into the palace. He asked again for stimulants--a matter ever
+uppermost in his mind--and would not be convinced that such things can
+do him no possible good, but would in the end be deleterious. Grant's
+letter was then read to him before his women, and I asked for the
+dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for they had not only destroyed my peace
+and home, but were always getting me into disrepute by plundering the
+Waganda in the highways. No answer was given to this; and on walking
+home, I found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection
+against the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often, she could
+not stand such abuse any longer.
+
+4th.--I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered woman,
+and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be dismissed. He
+returned, saying he delivered my message, but no reply was given. I
+then searched for the king, and found him at his brothers' suite of huts
+playing the flute before them. On taking my seat, he proudly pointed
+to two vultures which he had shot with bullet, saying to his brothers,
+"There, do you see these birds? Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with
+bullets." To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant
+was so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall
+both go together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know better. One
+of my men saw him coming along carried on a stretcher." I said, "No;
+that must be a mistake, for he told me by letter he would come by
+water."
+
+Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers never
+moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and n'yanzigging
+whenever noticed. The eldest brother offered me his cup of pombe,
+thinking I would not drink it; but when he saw its contents vanishing
+fast, he cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as I pretended not to
+understand him, continuing to drink, he rudely snatched the cup from
+my lips. Alternate concerts with the brothers, and conversation about
+hunting, in consequence of a bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing,
+which as discovered on my forehead, ended this day's entertainment.
+
+5th.--As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop at
+home. The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I would not
+believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming by land; and I
+also sent a lot of men with a litter to help him on, and bring me an
+answer.
+
+6th.--I went to the palace at the king's command. He kept us waiting an
+hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us to follow. He
+was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and tin box of clothes
+leading the way. His first question was, "Well, Bana, where are your
+guns? for I have called you to go shooting." "The pages never said
+anything about shooting, and therefore the guns were left behind."
+Totally unconcerned, the king walked on to his brothers, headed by a
+band and attendants, who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's
+notice. A grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger
+brothers keeping time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and
+dancing and duets and singing followed. After the usual presentations,
+fines, and n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go and meet Grant by
+water, but was hastily told that two boats had been sent for him when
+we returned from the N'yanza, and that two runners, just returned from
+Karague, said he was on the way not far off. The child-king then changed
+his dress for another suit of clothes for his brothers to admire, and
+I retired, much annoyed, as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor
+plantains for my men: and I was further annoyed on my arrival at home,
+to find the Wanguana mobbing my hut and clamouring for food, and calling
+for an order to plunder if I did not give them beads, which, as the
+stock had run short, I could only do by their returning to Karague
+for the beads stored there; and, even if they were obtained, it was
+questionable if the king would revoke his order prohibiting the sale of
+provisions to us.
+
+7th.--To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours in
+company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe occasionally;
+but after waiting for her nearly all day, they were dismissed, because
+excess of business prevented her seeing them, though I was desired to
+remain. I asked these attendants to sell me food for beads, but they
+declared they could not without obtaining permission. In the evening
+the queen stumped out of her chambers and walked to the other end of
+her palace, where the head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom
+everybody paid the profoundest respect. On the way I joined her, she
+saying, in a state of high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have
+given you such a charming damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your
+love of home." Of course Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained, when
+she said, "As that is the case, I will give you another; but you must
+take Meri out of the country, else she will bring trouble on us; for,
+you know, I never gave girls who lived in the palace to any one in my
+life before, because they would tell domestic affairs not proper for
+common people to know." I then said my reason for not seeing her before
+was, that the four times I had sent messengers to make an appointment
+for the following day, they had been repulsed from her doors. This she
+would not believe, but called me a story-teller in very coarse language,
+until the men who had been sent were pointed out to her, and they
+corroborated me.
+
+The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high, and
+instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out a bundle
+of grass for that purpose. All conversation was kept between the two
+queens; but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of clay-stone brought,
+which she ate with great relish, making a noise of satisfaction like
+a happy guinea-pig. She threw me a bit, which to the surprise of
+everybody, I caught and threw it into my mouth, thinking it was some
+confection; but the harsh taste soon made me spit it out again, to
+the amusement of the company. On returning home I found the king had
+requested me to call on him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest.
+
+8th.--Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything this
+morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great expectation that the
+medicines in request would bring us something; but after waiting all day
+till 4 p.m., as the king did not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked
+away to shoot a guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace. The scheme was
+successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird reached the
+king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was present he would
+be glad to see him. This gave Bombay an opportunity of telling all the
+facts of the case; which were no sooner heard than the king gave his
+starving guests a number of plantains, and vanished at once, taking my
+page Lugoi with him, to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language).
+
+9th.--As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four goats
+and two cows. In great good-humour I now called on him, and found him
+walking about the palace environs with a carbine, looking eagerly for
+sport, whilst his pages dragged about five half-dead vultures tied in
+a bundle by their legs to a string. "These birds," said he, tossing his
+head proudly, "were all shot flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will
+tell you. I like the carbine very well, but you must give me a double
+smooth gun." This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his
+good-nature in sending so many officers to fetch him.
+
+We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game the
+English delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could be found.
+A boy then in attendance was pointed out, as having seen Grant in Uddu
+ten days ago. If the statement were true, he must have crossed the
+Katonga. But though told with great apparent circumspection, I did
+not credit it, because my men sent on the 15th ultimo for a letter to
+ascertain his whereabouts had not returned, and they certainly would
+have done so had he been so near. To make sure, the king then proposed
+sending the boy again with some of my men; but this I objected to as
+useless, considering the boy had spoken falsely. Hearing this, the king
+looked at the boy and then at the women in turn, to ascertain what they
+thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy cried. Late in the evening
+the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth wrapper for a mbugu, and
+slipped quietly away. I did not suspect her intention, because of late
+she had appeared much more than ordinary happy, behaving to me in every
+respect like a dutiful child to a parent. A search was made, and guns
+fired, in the hopes of frightening her back again, but without effect.
+
+10th.--I had promised that this morning I would teach the king the art
+of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at 6 a.m., I
+found him already on the ground. He listened to the tale of the missing
+girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at once; then proceeding
+with the gun, fired eight shots successively at guinea-birds sitting on
+trees, but missed them all. After this, as the birds were scared
+away, and both iron shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his
+dressing-hut, went inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women,
+and ordered a breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be served
+me outside on the left of the entrance; whilst a large batch of his
+women sat on the right side, silently coquetting, and amusing themselves
+by mimicking the white man eating. Poor little Lugoi joined in the
+repast, and said he longed to return to my hut, for he was half starved
+here, and no one took any notice of him; but he was destined to be a
+royal page, for the king would not part with him. A cold fit then seized
+me, and as I asked for leave to go, the king gave orders for one of
+his wives to be flogged. The reason for this act of brutality I did not
+discover; but the moment the order was issued, the victim begged the
+pages to do it quickly, that the king's wrath might be appeased; and in
+an instant I saw a dozen boys tear their cord-turbans from their heads
+pull her roughly into the middle of the court, and belabour her
+with sticks, whilst she lay floundering about, screeching to me for
+protection. All I did was to turn my head away and walk rapidly out of
+sight, thinking it better not to interfere again with the discipline of
+the palace; indeed, I thought it not improbable that the king did these
+things sometimes merely that his guests might see his savage power. On
+reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit before my door.
+She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had induced her to run
+away; but said she was very happy in my house until yester-evening, when
+Rozaro's sister told her she was very stupid living with the Mzungu all
+alone, and told her to run away; which she did, taking the direction of
+N'yamasore's, until some officers finding her, and noticing beads on her
+neck, and her hair cut, according to the common court fashion, in slopes
+from a point in the forehead to the breadth of her ears, suspected her
+to be one of the king's women, and kept her in confinement all night,
+till Mtesa's men came this morning and brought her back again. As a
+punishment, I ordered her to live with Bombay; but my house was so dull
+again from want of some one to eat dinner with me, that I remitted the
+punishment, to her great delight.
+
+11th.--To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th, 28th
+April and 2d May. They were brought by my three men, with Karague pease,
+flour, and ammunition. He was at Maula's house, which proved the king's
+boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid of encountering the voyage
+on the lake, had deceived my companion and brought him on by land, like
+true negroes.
+
+12th.--I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a
+complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a pleasant
+voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of the lake. They
+carried at the same time a present of a canister of shot from me to the
+king. Delighted with this unexpected prize, he immediately shot fifteen
+birds flying, and ordered the men to acquaint me with his prowess.
+
+13th.--To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as a
+return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers, at my
+solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. He also sent a
+message that he had just shot thirteen birds flying.
+
+14th.--Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children from
+Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by Kamrasi, who were
+headed by Kidgwiga. Mtesa, it now transpired, had followed my advice
+of making friendship with Kamrasi by sending two brass wires as a hongo
+instead of an army, and Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks.
+Kidgwiga said Petherick's party was not in Unyoro--they had never
+reached there, but were lying at anchor off Gani. Two white men only
+had been seen--one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced; they
+were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them: they sat on
+chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and everything precisely like
+those in my hut. On one occasion they sent up a necklace of beads to
+Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave them a number of women and tusks. If I
+wished to go that way, Kamrasi would forward me on to their position
+in boats; for the land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten
+days, tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize
+everything they see.
+
+This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and Gani
+people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins, stealthily
+travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from fear of being
+murdered. Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on the 30th January, had
+been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a month, applying for the road to
+Gani, and as they could not get that, wished to come with Mabruki to me;
+but this Kamrasi also refused, on the plea that, as they had come from
+Karague, so they must return there. Kamrasi had heard of my shooting
+with Mtesa, as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach
+Gani via Usoga. He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and, in
+addition, took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to part with
+it, you must remain a prisoner in my country all your life, for you have
+not paid your footing." Mabruki then told me he was kept waiting at a
+village, one hour's walk from Kamrasi's palace, five days before they
+were allowed to approach his majesty; but when they were seen, and the
+presents exchanged, they were ordered to pack off the following morning,
+as Kamrasi said the Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards.
+
+This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing--a
+mixture of good and bad. Petherick, I now felt certain, was on the
+look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and returned again
+before Baraka's arrival. Baraka was not allowed to go on to him and
+acquaint him of our proximity, and the Waganda were so much disliked in
+Unyoro, that there seemed no hopes of our ever being able to communicate
+by letter. To add to my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to
+survey the lake from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of
+the lake been seen.
+
+15th.--I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which turned
+into a low kind of fever. I sent Bombay to the king to tell him the
+news, and ask him what he thought of doing next. He replied that he
+would push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot of pombe for the sick
+man.
+
+16th.--The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to say,
+did not accompany his message with a begging request.
+
+17th.--My respite, however, was not long. At the earliest possible
+hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one hundred times
+refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some little reserve store
+which I wished to conceal from him.
+
+18th and 19th.--I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as it was
+the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would see no person
+but myself. He had broken his rifle washing-rod, and this must be
+mended, the pages who brought it saying that no one dared take it back
+to him until it was repaired. A guinea-fowl was sent after dark for me
+to see, as a proof that the king was a sportsman complete.
+
+20th.--The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The Wanguana
+mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because they did not like
+the trouble of helping themselves from the king's garden, though they
+knew I had purchased their privilege to do so at the price of a gold
+chronometer and the best guns England could produce.
+
+21st.--I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king
+collected his army together. The highroads were all thronged with
+Waganda warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-leaf bands
+round their heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their loins, and spears
+and shield in their hands, singing the tambure or march, ending with
+a repetition of the word Mkavia, or Monarch. They surpassed in number,
+according to Bombay, the troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain
+Majid when Sayyid Sweni threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never
+saw such a large army collected anywhere.
+
+Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for the men,
+found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of despatching this
+said army somewhere, but where no one would pronounce. The king,
+then, observing my men who had gone to Unyoro together with Kamrasi's,
+questioned them on their mission; and when told that no white men were
+there, he waxed wrathful, and said it was a falsehood, for his men had
+seen them, and could not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden
+them somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded him;
+and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies--but no man living
+shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not obtain his object
+by fair means, he would use arms and force it out. Then, turning to
+Bombay, he said, "What does your master think of this business?" upon
+which Bombay replied, according to his instructions, "Bana wishes
+nothing done until Grant arrives, when all will go together." On this
+the king turned his back and walked away.
+
+22d.--Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I asked
+him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but, to avoid the
+inconvenience of answering a troublesome question, without replying, he
+walked off, saying he heard a noise in the neighbourhood of the palace
+which must be caused by the king ordering some persons to be seized, and
+his presence was so necessary he could not wait another moment. My men
+went for plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the
+king, instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their
+heads, keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all his
+beer was done.
+
+23d.--Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted the white
+men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty tusks to the
+chief of that country in hopes that it would insure their coming to see
+him. He also felt sure if I went there his king would treat me with the
+greatest respect. This afforded an opportunity for putting in a word of
+reconciliation. I said that it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi
+a present; and so now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there
+would be no difficulty about the matter.
+
+24th.--The army still thronged the highways, some going, others coming,
+like a swarm of ants, the whole day long. Kidgwiga paid another visit,
+and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing the king to fancy all
+my powder was done, as he had nearly consumed all my store; but the
+consequence was that, after waiting the whole day, I never saw him at
+all. In the evening pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama
+Goma, one march distant.
+
+25th.--I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant to help
+him on the way, but they could not go without a native officer, lest
+they should be seized, and no officer would lead the way. The king came
+shooting close to my hut and ordered me out. I found him marching Rozaro
+about in custody with four other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by
+Kitunzi, had set upon and beaten him severely. The king, pointing them
+out to me, said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to
+know if it was the practice in Karague. Of course I took the opportunity
+to renew my protest against the plundering system; but the king,
+changing the subject, told me the Wazungu were at Gani inquiring after
+us, and wishing to come here. To this I proposed fetching them myself
+in boats, but he objected, saying he would send men first, for they were
+not farther off to the northward than the place he sent boats to, to
+bring Grant. He said he did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides
+himself like a Neptune in the Nile, whenever his men go on a visit
+there, and instead of treating his guests with respect, he keeps them
+beyond the river. For this reason he had himself determined on adopting
+the passage by Kidi.
+
+I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus unexpectedly
+opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant was espied sitting
+on a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement ensued. The women were
+ordered one way and the attendants another, whilst I had to load the
+gun on the best way I could with the last charge and a half left in
+the king's pouch. Ten grains were all he would have allowed himself,
+reserving the residue, without reflecting that a large bird required
+much shot; and he was shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and
+still say it was not enough.
+
+The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot merely
+tickled him, and drove him to another tree. "Woh! woh!" cried the king,
+"I am sure he is hit; look there, look there;" and away he rushed
+after the bird; down with one fence, then with another, in the utmost
+confusion, everybody trying to keep his proper place, till at last the
+tree to which the bird had flown was reached, and then, with the last
+charge of shot, the king killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did
+not fall, but lay like a spread eagle in the upper branches. Wasoga were
+called to climb the tree and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies
+of joy and excitement, rushed up and down the potato-field like a mad
+bull, jumping and plunging, waving and brandishing the gun above his
+head; whilst the drums beat, the attendants all woh-wohed, and the
+women, joining with their lord, rushed about lullalooing and dancing
+like insane creatures. Then began congratulations and hand-shakings,
+and, finally, the inspection of the bird, which, by this time, the
+Wasoga had thrown down. Oh! oh! what a wonder! Its wings outspread
+reached further than the height of a man; we must go and show it to the
+brothers. Even that was not enough--we must show it to the mother; and
+away we all rattled as fast as our legs could carry us.
+
+Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the king
+changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper, and then
+walked in to see her, leaving us waiting outside. By this time Colonel
+Congow, in his full-dress uniform, had arrived in the square outside,
+with his regiment drawn up in review order. The king, hearing the
+announcement, at once came out with spears and shield, preceded by the
+bird, and took post, standing armed, by the entrance, encircled by his
+staff, all squatting, when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the
+company. Before us was a large open square, with the huts of the queen's
+Kamraviona or commander-in-chief beyond. The battalion, consisting of
+what might be termed three companies, each containing 200 men, being
+drawn up on the left extremity of the parade-ground, received orders to
+march past in single file from the right of companies, at a long trot,
+and re-form again at the other end of the square.
+
+Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the sight which
+ensued--the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depending from
+their girdles, and smeared with war colours according to the taste of
+each individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue, not
+in regular order--as, for instance, one stocking would be red, the other
+black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so
+with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms--two
+spears and one shield--held as if approaching an enemy, and they thus
+moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to twenty paces
+asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg
+only being bent, to give their strides the greater force. After the
+men had all started, the captains of companies followed, even more
+fantastically dressed; and last of all came the great Colonel Congow,
+a perfect Robinson Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-skins,
+a fiddle-shaped leather shield, tufted with white hair at all six
+extremities, bands of long hair tied below the knees, and a magnificent
+helmet, covered with rich beads of every colour, in excellent taste,
+surmounted with a plume of crimson feathers, from the centre of which
+rose a bent stem, tufted with goat-hair. Next they charged in companies
+to and fro; and, finally, the senior officers came charging at their
+king, making violent professions of faith and honesty, for which they
+were applauded. The parade then broke up, and all went home.
+
+26th.--One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to N'yama Goma
+with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. The reply brought
+to me was, that he was very thankful for it; that he cooked it and ate
+it on the spot; and begged I would see the king, to get him released
+from that starving place. Rozaro was given over to the custody of
+Kitunzi for punishment. At the same time, the queen, having heard of the
+outrages committed against her brother and women, commanded that neither
+my men nor any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for
+as we all came to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic,
+answerable for the offence. I called at the palace for explanation but
+could not obtain admittance because I would not fire the gun.
+
+27th.--The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate lightning.
+I called and described the effects of a lightning-rod, and tried to
+enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go there at once myself. He
+objected, because he had not seen Grant, but appointed an officer to
+go through Unyoro on to Gani, and begged I would also send men with
+letters. Our talk was agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance
+announcing Grant's arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend.
+How we enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's
+company, I need not describe. For my part, I was only too rejoiced
+to see Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to laugh over the
+picturesque and amusing account he gave me of his own rough travels.
+
+28th.--The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with
+Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to
+Kamrasi's again and ask for the road to Gani. I wished to speak to
+the king first, but they said they had no orders to stop for that, and
+walked straight away. I sent the king a present of a double-barrelled
+gun and ammunition, and received in answer a request that both Grant and
+myself would attend a levee, which he was to hold in state, accompanied
+by his bodyguard, as when I was first presented to him. In the afternoon
+we proceeded to court accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and
+after the first sitting, which was speedily over, retired to another
+court, and saw the women. Of this dumb show the king soon got tired; he
+therefore called for his iron chair, and entered into conversation, at
+first about the ever-engrossing subject of stimulants, till we changed
+it by asking him how he liked the gun? He pronounced it a famous weapon,
+which he would use intensely. We then began to talk in a general way
+about Suwarora and Rumanika, as well as the road through Unyamuezi,
+which we hoped would soon cease to exist, and be superseded by one
+through Unyoro.
+
+It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and all
+the perplexing and irritating negotiations here described, had always
+one end in view--that of reaching the Nile where it pours out of the
+N'yanza, as I was long certain that it did. Without the consent and
+even the aid of this capricious barbarian I was now talking to, such a
+project was hopeless. I naturally seized every opportunity for putting
+in a word in the direction of my great object, and here seemed to be an
+opportunity. We now ventured on a plump application for boats that we
+might feel our way to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to
+be navigable all the way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to
+accompany us, in order that whatever was done might be done all with
+good effect in opening up a new line of commerce, by which articles of
+European manufacture might find a permanent route to Uganda. It was "no
+go," however. The appeal, though listened to, and commented on, showing
+that it was well understood, got no direct reply. It was not my policy
+to make our object appear too important to ourselves, so I had to appear
+tolerably indifferent, and took the opportunity to ask for my paint-box,
+which he had borrowed for a day and had kept in his possession for
+months. I got no answer to that request either, but was immediately
+dunned for the compass, which had been promised on Grant's arrival. Now,
+with a promise that the compass would be sent him in the morning, he
+said he would see what pombe his women could spare us; and, bidding good
+evening, walked away.
+
+29th.--I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the
+king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with intense
+excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the greatest
+present Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by which he found
+out all the roads and countries--it was, in fact, half his knowledge;
+and the parting with it showed plainly that Bana entertained an
+everlasting friendship for him. The king then called Maula, and said,
+"Maula, indeed you have spoken the truth; there is nothing like this
+instrument," etc., etc., repeating what he had already told Bombay. In
+the evening, the king, accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair
+and box, came to visit us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought
+pictures of the natives, with great acclamation. We did not give him
+anything this time, but, instead, dunned him for the paint-box, and
+afterwards took a walk to my observatory hill, where I acted as guide.
+On the summit of this hill the king instructed his brothers on the
+extent of his dominions; and as I asked where Lubari or God resides, he
+pointed to the skies.
+
+30th.--The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of his own
+shooting, which he wished painted. He also wanted himself drawn, and all
+Grant's pictures copied. Then, to wind up these mild requests, a demand
+was made for more powder, and that all our guns be sent to the palace
+for inspection.
+
+31st.--I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon sent
+by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds, and wanted
+to see my shoes. The pages who came with the second message, however,
+proving impertinent, got a book flung at their heads, and a warning to
+be off, as I intended to see the king myself, and ask for food to keep
+my ever-complaining Wanguana quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found
+Mtesa had gone out shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that
+my camp was starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I
+wished to leave the country. Ashamed of its being supposed that his king
+would not give me any food because I had no more presents to give him,
+the Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave me a goat and pombe, and said
+he would speak to the king on the subject.
+
+1st.--I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he shot in
+the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to the queen's,
+accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred foraging for
+themselves, to the chance of picking up a few plantains at her
+majesty's. After an hour's waiting, the queen received us with smiles,
+and gave pombe and plantains to her new visitor, stating pointedly she
+had none for me. There was deep Uganda policy in this: it was for the
+purpose of treating Grant as a separate, independent person, and so
+obtaining a fresh hongo or tax. Laughing at the trick, I thanked her
+for the beer, taking it personally on my household, and told her when
+my property arrived from Karague, she should have a few more things as
+I promised her; but the men sent had neither brought my brother in
+a vessel, as they were ordered, not did they bring my property from
+Karague.
+
+Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something from
+Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it, and would
+not listen to our being one house. Turning the subject, to put in a word
+for my great object, I asked her to use her influence in opening the
+road to Gani, as, after all, that was the best way to get new things
+into Uganda. Cunning as a fox, the queen agreed to this project,
+provided Grant remained behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet,
+and she would speak to her son about the matter in the morning.
+
+This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our future
+operations into a shape that might lead to practical results without
+alarming our capricious host. I thought that whilst I could be employed
+in inspecting the river, and in feeling the route by water to Gani,
+Grant could return to Karague by water, bringing up our rear traps, and,
+in navigating the lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in
+getting by the machinations of his attendant Maribu. It was agreed to,
+and all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and
+Usoga, if we could only make sure of communicating once with Petherick.
+Before going home we had some more polite conversation, during which the
+queen played with a toy in the shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all
+over with cowries: this was a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her
+dandling it was held to indicate that she would ever remain a widow. In
+the evening the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request
+for one of them; as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on
+us, an iron bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour us with
+a visit for nothing; and the head page was sent to witness the transfer
+of the goods, and see there was no humbug about it. It was absolutely
+necessary to get into a rage, and tell the head page we did not come to
+Uganda to be swindled in that manner, and he might tell the king I would
+not part with one of them.
+
+2d.--K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an interview with
+the king, but could not get admission. I had some further trouble about
+the disposal of the child Meri, who said she never before had lived in
+a poor man's house since she was born. I thought to content her by
+offering to marry her to one of Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own
+breed, but she would not listen to the proposal.
+
+3d.--For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of
+firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen, and
+the Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found him engaged
+having these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's regiment from one court
+into another, this being his way of ascertaining their quantity, instead
+of counting them. About 1600 men were engaged on this service, when
+the king, standing on a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first
+court, with two spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded
+by his brothers and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the
+regiment to run to and fro in column, that he might see them well; then
+turning to his staff, ordered them to run up and down the regiment, and
+see what they thought of it. This ridiculous order set them all flying,
+and soon they returned, charging at the king with their sticks, dancing
+and jabbering that their numbers were many, he was the greatest king on
+earth, and their lives and services were his for ever. The regiment
+now received orders to put down their faggots, and, taking up their own
+sticks in imitation of spears, followed the antics of their officers
+in charging and vociferating. Next, Mkavia presented five hairy Usoga
+goats, n'yanzigging and performing the other appropriate ceremonies. On
+asking the king if he had any knowledge of the extent of his army, he
+merely said, "How can I, when these you see are a portion of them just
+ordered here to carry wood?"
+
+The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to follow
+the king into another court, when he complimented them on assembling so
+many men; they, instead of leaving well alone, foolishly replied they
+were sorry they were not more numerous, as some of the men lived so far
+away they shirked the summons; Maula, then, ever forward in mischief,
+put a cap on it by saying, if he could only impress upon the Waganda to
+listen to his orders, there would never be a deficiency. Upon which
+the king said, "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have
+appointed you as my orderly, and thereby you personify the orders of the
+king." Up jumped Maula in a moment as soon as these words were uttered,
+charging with his stick, then floundering and n'yanzigging as if he had
+been signally rewarded. I expected some piece of cruel mischief to come
+of all this, but the king, in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising,
+walked off to a third court, followed only by a select few.
+
+Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have come
+so far to see me, and have taught me so many things since you have been
+here." Rising, with my hand to my heart, and gracefully bowing at
+this strange announcement--for at that moment I was full of hunger and
+wrath--I intimated I was much flattered at hearing it, but as my house
+was in a state of starvation, I trusted he would consider it. "What!"
+said he, "do you want goats?" "Yes, very much." The pages then received
+orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard was
+empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more confiscations took
+place. But this, I said, was not enough; the Wanguana wanted plantains,
+for they had received none these fifteen days. "What!" said the king,
+turning to his pages again, "have you given these men no plantains, as I
+ordered? Go and fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana."
+
+The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani by
+water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the king's mind
+was fully occupied with the compass I had given him. He required me to
+explain its use, and then broke up the meeting.
+
+4th.--Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to Uganda,
+as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight his brother
+Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had received instructions
+from his king to apply to me for forty cows and two slave-boys, because
+the Arabs who pass through his country to Uganda always make him a
+present of that sort after receiving them from Mtesa. After telling him
+we English never give the presents they have received away to any one,
+and never make slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro
+for having brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as
+much trouble on myself, and begged that he might be removed from my
+camp. Rozaro then attempted to excuse himself, but without success, and
+said he had already detached his residence from my camp, and taken up a
+separate residence with Viarungi, his superior officer.
+
+I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had already
+issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself. The king addressed me
+with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to go to Gani. I answered
+him with all promptitude,--Yes, at once, with some of his officers
+competent to judge of the value of all I point out to them for
+future purposes in keeping the road permanently open. His provoking
+capriciousness, however, again broke in, and he put me off till his
+messengers should return from Unyoro. I told him his men had gone in
+vain, for Budja left without my letter or my men; and further, that the
+river route is the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda,
+and the sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen
+to my advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint him
+with my intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I could get
+no answer to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the Wanguana, getting
+laughed at for his audacity, and the king broke up the court and walked
+away.
+
+5th.--I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow, who
+informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house, where she
+was visiting, to her palace. By way of a joke and feeler, I took it in
+my head to try, by taking a harmless rise out of Congow, whether the
+Nile is understood by the natives to be navigable near its exit from the
+N'yanza. I told him he had been appointed by the king to escort us down
+the river to Gani. He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself
+to the following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if
+I refuse compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass
+Kamrasi's, which is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am a
+marked man there, having once led an army past his palace and back
+again. It would be no use calling it a peaceful mission, as you propose;
+for the Wanyoro distrust the Waganda to such an extent, they would fly
+to arms at once."
+
+Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once travelled
+to the Masai frontier. He said it would take a month to go in boats from
+Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda, to Masai, where there is
+another N'yanza, joined by a strait to the big N'yanza, which king
+Mtesa's boats frequent for salt; but the same distance could be
+accomplished in four days overland, and three days afterwards by boat.
+The queen, after keeping us all day waiting, sent three bunches of
+plantains and a pot of pombe, with a message that she was too tired to
+receive visitors, and hoped we would call another day.
+
+6th.--I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the morning's
+walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit the king, and was
+invited into his house to drink pombe. His badge of office is an iron
+hatchet, inlaid with copper and handled with ivory. He wished to give
+us a cow, but put it off for another day, and was surprised we dared
+venture into his premises without permission from the king. After this,
+we called at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with
+his brothers. He saw us, and sent for Bana. We entered, and presented
+him with some pictures, which he greatly admired, looked at close and
+far, showed to the brothers, and inspected again. Pokino at this
+time came in with a number of well-made shields, and presented them
+grovelling and n'yanzigging; but though the governor of an important
+province, who had not been seen by the king for years, he was taken
+no more notice of than any common Mkungu. A plan of the lake and Nile,
+which I brought with me to explain our projects for reaching Karague and
+Gani, engaged the king's attention for a while; but still he would not
+agree to let anything be done until the messenger returned from Unyoro.
+Finding him inflexible, I proposed sending a letter, arranging that his
+men should be under the guidance of my men after they pass Unyoro on the
+way to Gani; and this was acceded to, provided I should write a letter
+to Petherick by the morrow. I then tried to teach the king the use of
+the compass. To make a stand for it, I turned a drum on its head, when
+all the courtiers flew at me as if to prevent an outrage, and the king
+laughed. I found that, as the instrument was supposed to be a magic
+charm of very wonderful powers, my meddling with it and treating it as
+an ordinary movable was considered a kind of sacrilege.
+
+7th.--I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu never came
+for it. As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with Rumanika's hongo,
+consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a cloth I gave him, as well
+as a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay, in place of going myself, to
+remind the king of his promises for the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for
+boats to Karague, but a grunt was the only reply which my messenger said
+he obtained.
+
+8th.--Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk,
+and joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest manner,
+re-entered his palace, and left me to go home without speaking a word.
+The capricious creature then reissued, and, finding me gone, inquired
+after me, presuming I ought to have waited for him.
+
+9th.--During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person stealthily
+entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets towards the palace, but
+on the way dropped his burden. Maula, on the way home, happening to see
+it, and knowing it to be mine, brought it back again. I stayed at home,
+not feeling well.
+
+10th.--K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a return
+of six cows. Still at home, an invalid, I received a visit from Meri,
+who seemed to have quite recovered herself. Speaking of her present
+quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife very much, thinking birds of
+a feather ought to live together. She helped herself to a quarter of
+mutton, and said she would come again.
+
+11th.--To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty cows,
+twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid hands on them
+himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to King Mtesa. Such are the
+daily incidents among our neighbours.
+
+12th.--At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were placed
+out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our departure,
+were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most likely by the king's
+orders; for he is the only person who could have made any use of
+them, and his boys alone know the way into the hut; besides which, the
+previous box of bullets was found on the direct road to the palace,
+while it was well known that no one dared to touch an article of
+European manufacture without the consent of the king.
+
+13th.--I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring him, if
+an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret it out; his
+boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were peremptorily
+forbidden ever to enter the hut again. Twice the king sent down a hasty
+message to say he was collecting all his men to make a search, and, if
+they do not succeed, the Mganga would be sent; but nothing was done. The
+Kamraviona was sharply rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit
+him before permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer
+of many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone. At night
+the rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala, more wakeful
+than myself, heard them trying to untie the door-handle, and frightened
+them away in endeavouring to awaken me.
+
+14th and 15th.--Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance at the
+palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and musicians
+were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him. K'yengo was sent
+with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing expedition,--a good job for
+him, as it was his perquisite to receive the major part of the plunder
+himself.
+
+16th.--I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to Bombay
+as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little children
+to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch. This was much
+against her wish, and the child vowed she would not leave me until force
+compelled her; but I had really no other way of dealing with the remnant
+of the awkward burden which the queen's generosity had thrown on me.
+K'yengo went to the palace with fifty prisoners; but as the king had
+taken his women to the small pond, where he has recently placed a tub
+canoe for purposes of amusement, they did no business.
+
+17th.--I took a first convalescent walk. The king, who was out shooting
+all day, begged for powder in the evening. Uledi returned from his
+expedition against a recusant officer at Kituntu, bringing with him a
+spoil of ten women. It appeared that the officer himself had bolted from
+his landed possessions, and as they belonged to "the church," or were
+in some way or other sacred from civil execution, they could not be
+touched, so that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him.
+We heard that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned, had
+achieved an illustrious position by services at the birth of the
+king, had been sent to visit the late king Sunna's tomb, whence, after
+observing certain trees which were planted, and divining by mystic arts
+what the future state of Uganda required, she would return at a specific
+time, to order the king at the time of his coronation either to take the
+field with an army, to make a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease
+at home; whichever of these courses the influence of the ordeal at the
+grave might prompt her to order, must be complied with by the king.
+
+18th.--I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some pictures
+of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc. We found the guard fighting over
+their beef and plantain dinner. Bombay remarked that this daily feeding
+on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana if they had no religious
+scruples about the throat-cutting of animals for food. This, I told him,
+was all their own fault, for they have really no religion or opinions of
+their own; and had they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it
+would have been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but
+Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith than you
+could yours." A man with a maniacal voice sang and whistled by turns.
+Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our pictures, and being a
+favourite, acquainted the king, which gained us an admittance.
+
+We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind a
+portal, encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside. At first
+all was silence, till one told the king we had some wonderful pictures
+to show him; in an instant he grew lively, crying out, "Oh, let us see
+them!" and they were shown, Bombay explaining. Three of the king's wives
+then came in, and offered him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging
+incessantly, and beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they
+themselves would become doubly related to him. Nothing, however, seemed
+to be done to promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the
+king's side, who was evidently learned in the etiquette and traditions
+of the court, said, "Wait and see if he embraces, otherwise you may know
+he is not pleased." At this announcement the girls received a hint to
+pass on, and the king commenced bestowing on them a series of huggings,
+first sitting on the lap of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing
+his neck with hers to the right, then to the left, and, having finished
+with her, took post in the second one's lap, then on that of the third,
+performing on each of them the same evolutions. He then retired to
+his original position, and the marriage ceremony was supposed to be
+concluded, and the settlements adjusted, when all went on as before.
+
+The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we asked
+for a private interview on business, and drew the king outside. I then
+begged he would allow me, whilst his men were absent at Unyoro, to go to
+the Masai country, and see the Salt Lake at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza, and to lend me some of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and
+beads from Karague. This important arrangement being conceded by the
+king more promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were
+requested; but the cow only was given, though our men were said to be
+feeding on grass. Taking the king, as it appeared, in a good humour, to
+show him the abuses arising from the system of allowing his guests to
+help themselves by force upon the highways, I reported the late seizures
+made of thirty cows and twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though
+surprised to hear the news, he merely remarked that there were indeed a
+great number of visitors in Uganda. During this one day we heard the
+sad voice of no less than four women, dragged from the palace to the
+slaughter-house.
+
+19th.--To follow up our success in the marching question and keep the
+king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had gone out
+shooting. To push my object further, I then marched off to the queen's
+to bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to leave the next day; but as
+no one would dare to approach her cabinet to apprise her of our arrival,
+we returned home tired and annoyed.
+
+20th.--The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the palace we
+found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make the best of our
+time, we called again upon the queen for the same purpose as yesterday,
+as also to get my books of birds and animals, which, taken merely
+to look at for a day or so, had been kept for months. After hours of
+waiting, her majesty appeared standing in an open gateway; beckoned us
+to advance, and offered pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell,
+she said she could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith
+retired without one word being obtained. An officer, however, venturing
+in for the books, at length I got them.
+
+21st.--To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king was out
+shooting again.
+
+22d.--We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at the
+court. Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-jack, to amuse
+the young princes; but it had a higher destiny, for it so fascinated the
+king Rumanika himself that he would not part with it--unless, indeed,
+Grant would make him a big one out of a tree which was handed to him
+for the purpose. We resolved to try the influence of such a toy on king
+Mtesa, and brought with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures. But
+although the king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us.
+Finding this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and pictures on
+a throne, and walked away. We found that we had thus committed a serious
+breach of state etiquette; for the guard, as soon as they saw what we
+had done, seized the Wanguana for our offences in defiling the royal
+seat, and would have bound them, had they not offered to return the
+articles to us.
+
+23d.--Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching off on
+a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with the mask and
+pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see him, and explain
+that we had been four days successively foiled in attempts to find him
+in his palace, our object being an eager wish to come to some speedy
+understanding about the appointed journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague.
+The toys produced the desired effect; for the king stopped and played
+with them, making Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns. He
+appointed the morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself
+for not having seen us yesterday on the plea of illness. In the evening
+Kahala absconded with another little girl of the camp in an opposite
+direction from the one she took last time; but as both of them wandered
+about not knowing where to go to, and as they omitted to take off all
+their finery, they were soon recognised as in some way connected with my
+party, taken up, and brought into camp, where they were well laughed at
+for their folly, and laughed in turn at the absurdity of their futile
+venture.
+
+24th.--Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the palace
+early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers, so followed
+him down, and found him engaged playing on a harmonicon with them.
+Surprised at my intrusion, he first asked how I managed to find him out;
+then went on playing for a while; but suddenly stopping to talk with me,
+he gave me an opportunity of telling him I wished to send Grant off to
+Karague, and start myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning.
+"What! going away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word
+about it before; and then, after talking the whole subject over again,
+especially dwelling on the quantity of powder I had in store at Karague,
+he promised to send the necessary officers for escorting us on our
+respective journeys in the morning.
+
+The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us, when I
+had to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready compliance inducing
+the princes to pass various compliments of my person and disposition.
+The brothers then showed me a stool made of wood after the fashion of
+our sketching-stool, and a gun-cover of leather, made by themselves,
+of as good workmanship as is to be found in India. The king then rose,
+followed by his brothers, and we all walked off to the pond. The effect
+of stimulants was mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when
+a second move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed
+a number of new huts just finished and beautifully made. Finally, he
+settled down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead himself.
+At eight o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded the king of his
+promises, and he appointed the morning to call on him for the Wakungu,
+and took leave.
+
+25th.--Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was pleased
+to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time in buying slaves
+and ivory there. I went to the palace for the promised escort, but
+was no sooner announced by the pages than the king walked off into the
+interior of his harem, and left me no alternative but to try my luck
+with the Kamraviona, who, equally proud with his master, would not
+answer my call,--and so another day was lost.
+
+26th.--This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu that he
+had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a voyage to Karague
+in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of departure was not fixed.
+The passage was expected to be rough, as the water off the mouth of the
+Kitangule Kagera (river) always runs high, so that no boats can go there
+except at night, when the winds of day subside, and are replaced by the
+calms of night. I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king,
+though the court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150
+women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures from
+refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too proud to
+present themselves at court for a period exceeding propriety.
+
+All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given away as
+return-presents for the hongos or presents received from the king's
+visitors. No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed breeds. Amongst the
+officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the ambassador that had been
+sent to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's deputy. He had returned three
+days before, but had not yet seen the king. As might have been expected,
+he said he had been anything but welcomed in Unyoro. Kamrasi, after
+keeping him half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message--for
+he would not see him--that he did not desire any communication with
+blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he valued his
+life, to return by the road by which he came as speedily as possible.
+Turning to Congow, I playfully told him that, as the road through Unyoro
+was closed, he would have to go with me through Usoga and Kidi; but
+the gallant colonel merely shuddered, and said that would be a terrible
+undertaking.
+
+27th.--The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we
+still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of powder
+inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted the last of
+it. I found that the Waganda have the same absurd notion here as the
+Wanyambo have in Karague, of Kamrasi's supernatural power in being able
+to divide the waters of the Nile in the same manner as Moses did the Red
+Sea.
+
+28th.--The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had just heard
+from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani inquiring after us;
+but nothing was said of Budja's defeat. I sent Bombay immediately off
+to tell him we had changed our plans, and now simply required a large
+escort to accompany us through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay
+in communicating with Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening
+the Nile trade with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his
+officers in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he
+hoped we would attend, as he wished to further our views. A herd of
+cows, about eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing that
+the silly king was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time that he was
+trying to treat with him. K'yengo informed us that the king, considering
+the surprising events which had lately occurred at his court, being
+very anxious to pry into the future, had resolved to take a very strong
+measure for accomplishing that end. This was the sacrifice of a child by
+cooking, as described in the introduction--a ceremony which it fell to
+K'yengo to carry out.
+
+29th.--To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as hotly
+as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen, conveying,
+as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch without a key, two
+sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white towel, with an intimation
+that we were going, as the king had expressed his desire of sending us
+to Gani. Her majesty accepted the present, finding fault with the watch
+for not ticking like the king's, and would not believe her son Mtesa
+had been so hasty in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been
+consulted on the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his
+appointed time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court
+attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent. As we were all
+waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling him I wanted
+a thousand men to march with me through Kidi to Gani. Surprised at the
+extent of my requisition, he wished to know if my purpose was fighting.
+I made him a present of the great principle that power commands respect,
+and it was to prevent any chance of fighting that we required so
+formidable an escort. His reply was that he would tell the king; and he
+immediately rose and walked away home.
+
+K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived by order
+of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and cattle lately
+captured. As I was very hungry, I set off home to breakfast. Just as I
+had gone, the provoking king inquired after me, and so brought me back
+again, though I never saw him the whole day. K'yengo, however, was very
+communicative. He said he was present when Sunna, with all the forces he
+could muster, tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel
+through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he could
+make nothing of it. He advised my returning to Karague, when Rumanika
+would give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro; but finding that
+did not suit my views, as I swore I would never retrace one step, he
+proposed my going by boat to Unyoro, following down the Nile.
+
+This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king Mtesa,
+after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced to consent
+to it? My intention, I said, was to try the king on the Usoga and Kidi
+route first, then on the Masai route to Zanzibar, affecting perfect
+indifference about Kamrasi; and all those failing--which, of course,
+they would--I would ask for Unyoro as a last and only resource. Still I
+could not see the king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite
+nonplussed. "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see him is
+merely because he is Ashamed to show his face, having made so many fair
+promises to you which he knows he can never carry out: bide your time,
+and all will be well." At 4 p.m., as no hope of seeing the king was
+left, all retired.
+
+30th.--Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the king
+sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for many days
+ago. The new moon seen last night kept the king engaged at home, paying
+his devotions with his magic horns or fetishes in the manner already
+described. The spirit of this religion--if such it can be called--is not
+so much adoration of a Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to certain
+malignant furies--a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them bringing evil
+on the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest. It was rather ominous
+that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down one of the palace
+huts, while the king was in the midst of his propitiatory devotions.
+
+1st.--As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in the
+art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the road, and he
+reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked one thousand men to go
+through Kidi. This the king said was impracticable, as the Waganda had
+tried it so often before without success. Then, as that could not be
+managed, what would the king devise himself? Bana only proposed the
+Usoga and Kidi route, because he thought it would be to the advantage
+of Uganda. "Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see
+Usoga, he can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no more."
+To this Bombay replied, "Bana never could return; he would sooner
+do anything than return--even penetrate the Masai to Zanzibar, or go
+through Unyoro"; to which the king, ashamed of his impotence, hung down
+his head and walked away.
+
+In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's palace, I
+went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen. As usual, she kept
+us waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an open gate, and invited
+us, together with many Wakungu and Wasumbua to approach. Very lavish
+with stale sour pombe, she gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom
+she addressed very angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been
+months in the country. These poor creatures, in a desponding mood,
+defended themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left
+their homes in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade. They had, since their
+arrival in the country, been daily in attendance at her palace, but
+never had the good fortune to see her excepting on such lucky occasions
+as brought the Wazungu (white men) here, when she opened her gates to
+them, but otherwise kept them shut. The queen retorted, "And what have
+you brought me, pray? where is it? Until I touch it you will neither
+see me nor obtain permission to trade. Uganda is no place for idle
+vagabonds." We then asked for a private interview, when, a few drops of
+rain falling, the queen walked away, and we had orders to wait a little.
+During this time two boys were birched by the queen's orders, and an
+officer was sent out to inquire why the watch he had given her did not
+go. This was easily explained. It had no key; and, never losing sight
+of the main object, we took advantage of the opportunity to add, that
+if she did not approve of it, we could easily exchange it for another on
+arrival at Gani, provided she would send an officer with us.
+
+The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and myself
+to sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one cock each,
+saying coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then taking out the
+presents, she learned the way of wearing her watch with a tape guard
+round her neck, reposing the instrument in her bare bosom, and of
+opening and shutting it, which so pleased her, that she declared it
+quite satisfactory. The key was quite a minor consideration, for she
+could show it to her attendants just as well without one. The towel and
+handkerchiefs were also very beautiful, but what use could they be put
+to? "Oh, your majesty, to wipe the mouth after drinking pombe." "Of
+course," is the reply--"excellent; I won't use a mbugu napkin any more,
+but have one of these placed on my cup when it is brought to drink, and
+wipe my mouth with it afterwards. But what does Bana want?" "The road to
+Gani," says Bombay for me. "The king won't see him when he goes to
+The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your superior influence and
+good-nature will be more practicable." "Oh!" says her majesty, "Bana
+does not know the facts of the case. My son has tried all the roads
+without success, and now he is ashamed to meet Bana face to face." "Then
+what is to be done, your majesty?" "Bana must go back to Karague and
+wait for a year, until my son is crowned, when he will make friends with
+the surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened." "But Bana says he
+will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his life." "Oh, that's
+nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but before anything more can be
+said, I will send a message to my son, and Bana can then go with Kaddu,
+K'yengo, and Viarungi, and tell all they have to say to Mtesa to-morrow,
+and the following day return to me, when everything will be concluded."
+We all now left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers, who waited
+for the message to her son about us. To judge from Kaddu, it must have
+been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on joining us,
+he said there was not the smallest chance of our getting the road we
+required, for the queen was so decided about it no further argument
+would be listened to.
+
+2d.--Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's cooks,
+who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and asked him to
+order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that he often loses goats
+in the same way. He sent us one of his own for present purposes, and
+gave thirty baskets of potatoes to my men. As the king held a court, and
+broke it up before 8 a.m., and no one would go there for fear of his not
+appearing again, I waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo,
+and Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a gun,
+and was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. On seeing
+me, he took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we walked along
+together, he asked me what I wanted, showed me the house which was burnt
+down, and promised to settle the road question in the morning.
+
+3d.--With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went to
+the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a levee,
+and fired a gun, which brought the king out in state. The Sakibobo, or
+provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers armed with sticks,
+made a speech, and danced at the head of his men, all pointing sticks
+upwards, and singing fidelity to their king.
+
+The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen to your
+request of last night. What is it you do want?" I said, "To open the
+country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of commerce might exist
+between England and this country by means of the Nile. I might go round
+by Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at me); "but that is out of the way,
+and not suitable to the purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered
+to draw near, and questioned in a whisper. As K'yengo was supposed to
+know all about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili,
+he had to speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said, "One
+white man wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes to return
+through Unyamuezi." This announcement made the king reflect; for he had
+been privately primed by his mother's attendants, that we both wished to
+go to Gani, and therefore shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished
+to visit Kamrasi, and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage
+north from Uganda. "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the
+little master) "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and
+Rumanika all about it." "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was called
+upon to explain. Mtesa, then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's statements,
+called him a story-teller; ordered him and his party away, and bade me
+draw near.
+
+The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was
+granted! The king presently let us see the motive by which he had been
+influenced. He said he did not like having to send to Rumanika for
+everything: he wanted his visitors to come to him direct; moreover,
+Rumanika had sent him a message to the effect that we were not to be
+shown anything out of Uganda, and when we had done with it, were to be
+returned to him. Rumanika, indeed! who cared about Rumanika? Was not
+Mtesa the king of the country, to do as he liked? and we all laughed.
+Then the king, swelling with pride, asked me whom I liked best--Rumanika
+or himself,--an awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked
+Rumanika very much because he spoke well, and was very communicative;
+but I also liked Mtesa, because his habits were much like my own--fond
+of shooting and roaming about; whilst he had learned so many things from
+my teaching, I must ever feel a yearning towards him.
+
+With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for Budja
+was appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare us boats,
+that we might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water. Viarungi made a
+petition, on Rumanika's behalf, for an army of Waganda to go to Karague,
+and fight the refractory brother, Rogero; but this was refused, on the
+plea that the whole army was out fighting at the present moment. The
+court then broke up and we went home.
+
+To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the evening I
+took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron chair he formerly
+asked for, as a parting present, to the palace, but did not find him, as
+he had gone out shooting with his brothers.
+
+4th.--Grant and I now called together on the king to present the rifle,
+chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words sufficiently
+for the favour he had done us in granting the road through Unyoro. I
+said the parting gift was not half as much as I should like to have been
+able to give; but we hoped, on reaching Gani, to send Petherick up to
+him with everything that he could desire. We regretted we had no more
+powder or shot, as what was intended, and actually placed out expressly
+to be presented on this occasion, was stolen. The king looked hard at
+his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now given, and
+then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many cows and women I
+would like, holding his hand up with spread fingers, and desiring me
+to count by hundreds; but the reply was, Five cows and goats would be
+enough, for we wished to travel lightly in boats, starting from the
+Murchison Creek. Women were declined on such grounds as would seem
+rational to him. But if the king would clothe my naked men with one
+mbugu (bark cloth) each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi
+porters, who desired to return to their home, the obligation would be
+great.
+
+Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then the
+king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to go?" "Yes,
+for I have not seen my home for four years and upwards"--reckoning five
+months to the year, Uganda fashion. "And you can give no stimulants?"
+"No." "Then you will send me some from Gani--brandy if you like; it
+makes people sleep sound, and gives them strength." Next we went to the
+queen to bid her farewell, but did not see her.
+
+On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They had
+been on their own account to beg for the women and cows which had been
+refused, saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for we have been
+starved here ever since we came, and when we go for food get broken
+heads; we will not serve with Bana any longer; but as he goes north, we
+will return to Karague and Unyanyembe. Bombay, however, told them they
+never had fed so well in all their lives as they had in Uganda, counting
+from fifty to sixty cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day,
+whenever they took the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads
+they invariably received a compensation in women; so that Bana had
+reason to regret every day spent in asking for food for them at the
+palace--a favour which none but his men received, but which they had
+not, as they might have done, turned to good effect by changing the
+system of plundering for food in Uganda.
+
+5th.--By the king's order we attended at the palace early. The gun
+obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened conversation
+by saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?" "Yes; I have enjoyed
+your hospitality for a long time, and now wish to return to my home."
+"What provision do you want?" I said, Five cows and five goats, as we
+shan't be long in Uganda; and it is not the custom of our country, when
+we go visiting, to carry anything away with us. The king then said,
+"Well, I wish to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke
+out, saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through;
+there is nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must have
+cows"; on which the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen goats, ten
+loads of butter, a load of coffee and tobacco, one hundred sheets of
+mbugu, as clothes for my men, at a suggestion of Bombay's, as all my
+cloth had been expended even before I left Karague.
+
+This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took advantage of
+by producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped sticks and a lump of
+earth--all of which have their own particular magical powers, as K'yengo
+described to the king's satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the
+cause of my mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at
+him before the king, rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's
+affairs, and told my own story, which gained the sympathy of the king,
+and induced him to say, "Supposing they desert Bana, what road do they
+expect to get?" Maula was now appointed to go with Rozaro to Karague for
+the powder and other things promised yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all
+his party, though exceedingly anxious to get away, had orders to remain
+here prisoners as a surety for the things arriving. Further, Kaddu and
+two other Wakungu received orders to go to Usui with two tusks of
+ivory to purchase gunpowder, caps, and flints, failing which they would
+proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to Zanzibar, for the king must not be
+disappointed, and failure would cost them their lives.
+
+Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no more
+arrangement than a set of geese--Maula without a letter, and Kaddu
+without any provision for the way, as if all the world belonged to
+Mtesa, and he could help himself from any man's garden that he liked,
+no matter where he was. In the evening my men made a humble petition for
+their discharge, even if I did not pay them, producing a hundred reasons
+for wishing to leave me, but none which would stand a moment's argument:
+the fact was, they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not
+sufficient ammunition.
+
+6th.--I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at once;
+but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that dangerous
+shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira district
+station, so that the boats of one place never visit the other; and
+further, if we went to Kira, we should find impracticable cataracts
+to the Urondogani boat-station; our better plan would therefore be, to
+deposit our property at the Urondogani station, and walk by land up
+the river, if a sight of the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such
+material consequence to us.
+
+Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was nobody
+able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to visit Usoga
+first, lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity of communicating
+with Petherick. Grant now took a portrait of Mtesa by royal permission,
+the king sitting as quietly as his impatient nature would permit. Then
+at home the Wanyamuezi porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing
+from 16 to 50 lb. each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for
+twenty fundo of beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth
+to the expedition some months previously, thought it would not be paid
+him, and therefore seized a sword as security; the consequence was, his
+tusk was seized until the sword was returned, and he was dismissed minus
+his beads, for having so misconducted himself. The impudent fellow
+then said, "It will be well for Bana if he succeeds in getting the road
+through Unyoro; for, should he fail, I will stand in his path at Bogue."
+Kitunzi offered an ivory for beads, and when told we were not merchants,
+and advised to try K'yengo, he said he dared not even approach K'yengo's
+camp lest people should tell the king of it, and accuse him of seeking
+for magical powers against his sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his
+discharge. It was granted, and he took a $50 letter on the coast, and a
+letter of emancipation for himself and family, besides an order, written
+in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on Rumanika, which made him very
+happy.
+
+In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the things
+the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing Rumanika what
+we wished done with them, in order that there might be no mistake,
+requesting the king to forward them after Mula. Just then Kaddu's men
+returned to say they wanted provisions for the way, as the Wazinza,
+hearing of their mission, asked them if they knew what they were about,
+going to a strange country without any means of paying their way. But
+the king instead of listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do
+not pack off at once, and bring me the things I want, every man of you
+shall lose his head; and as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my
+orders, they shall be kept here prisoners until you return."
+
+On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us, walking,
+with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to execution, crying,
+"N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner. A man was preceding her, but did
+not touch her; for she loved to obey the orders of her king voluntarily,
+and in consequence of previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of
+distinction, to walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since
+we parted from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody
+piece of business.
+
+7th.--Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say farewell.
+Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I instantly complied.
+On the breast of my coat I suspended the necklace the queen had given
+me, as well as his knife, and my medals. I talked with him in as
+friendly and flattering a manner as I could, dwelling on his shooting,
+the pleasant cruising on the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as
+the grand prospect there was now of opening the country to trade, by
+which his guns, the best in the world, would be fed with powder--and
+other small matters of a like nature,--to which he replied with great
+feeling and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing
+the hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete
+uniformity in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an instant,
+mimicked with the instinct of a monkey.
+
+We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king
+issued himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and women
+bringing up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza joined in the
+procession with ourselves, they kneeling and clapping their hands after
+the fashion of their own country. Budja just then made me feel very
+anxious, by pointing out the position of Urondogani, as I thought, too
+far north. I called the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said
+he would speak to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in
+my mind, for he liked me much, and desired to please me in all things.
+As the procession now drew to our camp, and Mtesa expressed a wish to
+have a final look at my men, I ordered them to turn out with their
+arms and n'yanzig for the many favours they had received. Mtesa, much
+pleased, complimented them on their goodly appearance, remarking that
+with such a force I would have no difficulty in reaching Gani, and
+exhorted them to follow me through fire and water; then exchanging
+adieus again he walked ahead in gigantic strides up the hill, the pretty
+favourite of his harem, Lubuga--beckoning and waving with her little
+hands, and crying, "Bana! Bana!"--trotting after him conspicuous amongst
+the rest, though all showed a little feeling at the severance. We saw
+them no more.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XV. March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa
+
+Kari--Tragic Incident there--Renewals of Troubles--Quarrels with the
+Natives--Reach the Nile--Description of the Scene there--Sport--Church
+Estate--Ascend the River to the Junction with the Lake--Ripon
+Falls--General Account of the Source of the Nile--Descend again to
+Urondogani--The Truculent Sakibobo.
+
+7th to 11th.--With Budja appointed as the general director, a lieutenant
+of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his division at the
+first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a lieutenant of Jumba's, to
+provide the boats at Urondogani, we started at 1 p.m., on the journey
+northwards. The Wanguana still grumbled, swearing they would carry no
+loads, as they got no rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed
+them, forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in
+rifles, chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000 dollars,
+and, what was more to the point, that all the ammunition was in our
+hands. A judicious threat of the stick, however, put things right, and
+on we marched five successive days to Kari--as the place was afterwards
+named, in consequence of the tragedy mentioned below--the whole distance
+accomplished being thirty miles from the capital, through a fine hilly
+country, with jungles and rich cultivation alternating. The second
+march, after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing
+north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us beyond the
+influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge grasses which
+characterise the southern boundary of Uganda bordering on the lake.
+
+Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner. After
+a certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some village of
+residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged to the queen,
+lest any rows should take place in them, which would create disagreeable
+consequences with the king, and preferring those the heads of which had
+been lately seized by the orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever
+we went, all the villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses,
+property, and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the
+escort. To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my power;
+the king allowed it, and his men were the first in every house, taking
+goats, fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums, spears, tobacco,
+pombe,--in short, everything they could lay their hands on--in the most
+ruthless manner. It was a perfect marauding campaign for them all, and
+all alike were soon laden with as much as they could carry.
+
+A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the
+cows given by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive
+pasture-grounds, I strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new animals
+could be found; but no sooner did I wound a zebra than messengers came
+running after me to say Kari, one of my men, had been murdered by the
+villagers three miles off; and such was the fact. He, with others of my
+men, had been induced to go plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda
+escort, to a certain village of potters, as pots were required by Budja
+for making plantain-wine, the first thing ever thought of when a camp
+is formed. On nearing the place, however, the women of the village, who
+were the only people visible, instead of running away, as our braves
+expected, commenced hullalooing, and brought out their husbands. Flight
+was now the only thought of our men, and all would have escaped had Kari
+not been slow and his musket empty. The potters overtook him, and, as he
+pointed his gun, which they considered a magic-horn, they speared him
+to death, and then fled at once. Our survivors were not long in bringing
+the news into camp, when a party went out, and in the evening brought in
+the man's corpse and everything belonging to him, for nothing had been
+taken.
+
+12th.--To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its exit from
+the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as possible, I
+wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja and some of my men
+with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's. Another reason for doing
+so was, that I thought it advisable Kamrasi should be forewarned that we
+were coming by the water route, lest we should be suspected and stopped
+as spies by his officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which
+would provoke a fight. Budja, however, objected to move until a report
+of Kari's murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people,
+getting bumptious, should try the same trick again; and Kasoro said he
+would not go up the river, as he had received no orders to do so.
+
+In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the king's
+last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered Kasoro to go
+with me. A page then arrived from the king to ask after Bana's health,
+carrying the Whitworth rifle as his master's card, and begging for a
+heavy double-barrelled gun to be sent him from Gani. I called this lad
+to witness the agreement I had made with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro
+satisfied me, I would return by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a
+Massey's patent log. I had taken it for the navigation of the lake,
+and it was now of no further use to me, but, being an instrument of
+complicated structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's
+museum of magic charms. I added I should like the king to send me the
+robes of honour and spears he had once promised me, in order that I
+might, on reaching England, be able to show my countrymen a specimen
+of the manufactures of his country. The men who were with Kari were now
+sent to the palace, under accusation of having led him into ambush, and
+a complaint was made against the villagers, which we waited the reply
+to. As Budja forbade it, no men would follow me out shooting, saying the
+villagers were out surrounding our camp, and threatening destruction
+on any one who dared show his face; for this was not the highroad to
+Uganda, and therefore no one had a right to turn them out of their
+houses and pillage their gardens.
+
+13th.--Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and seeing
+ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what spells we had
+secured them; and would not believe our assurance that the ropes
+that bound them were all the medicines we knew of. One of the Queen's
+sisters, hearing of Kari's murder, came on a visit to condole with us,
+bringing a pot of pombe, for which she received some beads. On being
+asked how many sisters the queen had, for we could not help suspecting
+some imposition, she replied she was the only one, till assured ten
+other ladies had presented themselves as the queen's sisters before,
+when she changed her tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only
+one; but if I had told you the truth I might have lost my head." This
+was a significant expression of the danger to telling court secrets.
+
+I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in this
+district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all the huts,
+as well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on pipe-sticks--an
+ornament which is counted the special badge of the sportsman in this
+part of Africa. Despite, therefore, of the warnings of Budja, I strolled
+again with my rifle, and saw pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes
+with straight horns, called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite
+apron for the Mabandwa.
+
+14th.--I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle,
+and asked him if he knew where the game lay. The unmannerly creature,
+standing among a thousand of the sleekest cattle, gruffishly replied,
+"What can I know of any other animals than cows?" and went on with
+his work, as if nothing in the world could interest him but his
+cattle-tending. I shot a doe, leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first
+one seen upon the journey.
+
+15th.--In the morning, when our men went for water to the springs, some
+Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this time caught a Tartar,
+for the "horns," as they called their guns, were loaded, and two of
+them received shot-wounds. In the evening, whilst we were returning from
+shooting, a party of Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to know
+what we were about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us
+out of our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the
+wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport, would not
+believe that our motive was any other than hostility to themselves.
+
+At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the
+king was highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu, in
+prosecution of Kari's affair. He hoped now as we had cows to eat,
+there would be no necessity for wandering for food, but all would keep
+together "in one garden." At present no notice would be taken of the
+murderers, as all the culprits would have fled far away in their fright
+to escape chastisement. But when a little time had elapsed, and all
+would appear to have been forgotten, officers would be sent and the
+miscreants apprehended, for it was impossible to suppose anybody could
+be ignorant of the white men being the guests of the king, considering
+they had lived at the palace for so long. The king took this opportunity
+again to remind me that he wanted a heavy solid double gun, such as
+would last him all his life; and intimated that in a few days the arms
+and robes of honour were to be sent.
+
+16th.--Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides--for the king gave
+them also a present, ten each--were driven into camp. We also got 50 lb.
+of butter, the remainder to be picked up on the way. I strolled with
+the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent to the king, as, by the
+constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep their royal skins.
+
+17th.--We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their cows,
+so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the first I had
+ever seen. It is a brown animal, a little smaller than leucotis, and
+frequents much the same kind of ground.
+
+18th.--We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when, as it
+appeared all-important to communicate quickly with Petherick, and as
+Grant's leg was considered too weak for travelling fast, we took counsel
+together, and altered our plans. I arranged that Grant should go to
+Kamrasi's direct with the property, cattle, and women, taking my letters
+and a map for immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should
+go up the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down again
+navigating as far as practicable.
+
+At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our men
+were sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to themselves than
+to us, for one sword only was buried in the fire, whilst their own huts,
+intended to be vacated in the morning, were burnt to the ground. To
+fortify ourselves against another invasion, we cut down all their
+plaintains to make a boma or fence.
+
+We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after the third
+mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to Kamrasi's, whilst I
+went east for Urondogani, crossing the Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three
+miles broad, fordable nearly to the right bank, where we had to ferry in
+boats, and the cows to be swum over with men holding on to their tails.
+It was larger than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took
+no less than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and
+legs all the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and fall
+into the Nile, due south of our crossing-point. On the right bank wild
+buffalo are described to be as numerous as cows, but we did not see any,
+though the country is covered with a most inviting jungle for sport,
+which intermediate lays of fine grazing grass. Such is the nature of the
+country all the way to Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept
+as tidily as in any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the
+utmost luxuriance. From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive
+ill-natured Wahuma who were here in great numbers tending their king's
+cattle, we lost our way continually, so that we did not reach the
+boat-station until the morning of the 21st.
+
+Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was the
+scene, nothing could surpass it! It was the very perfection of the kind
+of effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a magnificent stream from
+600 to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks, the former occupied
+by fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles basking in the
+sun,--flowing between the fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and
+plantains in the background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest
+could be seen grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water,
+and florikan and guinea-fowl rising at our feet. Unfortunately, the
+chief district officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took possession of
+his huts--clean, extensive, and tidily kept--facing the river, and
+felt as if a residence here would do one good. Delays and subterfuges,
+however, soon came to damp our spirits. The acting officer was sent
+for, and asked for the boats; they were all scattered, and could not be
+collected for a day or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever
+went up or down the river. The chief was away and would be sent for, as
+the king often changed his orders, and, after all, might not mean
+what had been said. The district belonged to the Sakibobo, and no
+representative of his had come here. These excuses, of course, would not
+satisfy us. The boats must be collected, seven, if there are not ten,
+for we must try them, and come to some understanding about them, before
+we march up stream, when, if the officer values his life, he will let
+us have them, and acknowledge Karoso as the king's representative,
+otherwise a complaint will be sent to the palace, for we won't stand
+trifling.
+
+We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be the
+very counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty. Here the people
+use such huge iron-headed spears with short handles, that, on seeing
+one to-day, my people remarked that they were better fitted for
+digging potatoes than piercing men. Elephants, as we had seen by their
+devastations during the last two marches, were very numerous in this
+neighbourhood. Till lately, a party from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had
+driven them away. Lions were also described as very numerous and
+destructive to human life. Antelopes were common in the jungle, and the
+hippopotami, though frequenters of the plantain-garden and constantly
+heard, were seldom seen on land in consequence of their unsteady habits.
+
+The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun and
+stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for--two spears,
+one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two sheets of small
+antelope skins. I told my men they ought to shave their heads and bathe
+in the holy river, the cradle of Moses--the waters of which, sweetened
+with sugar, men carry all the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the
+pilgrims. But Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school,
+said, "We don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that
+you do; we are contented with all the common-places of life, and look
+for nothing beyond the present. If things don't go well, it is God's
+will; and if they do go well, that is His will also."
+
+22d.--The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat, and
+pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He promised that
+the seven boats, which are all the station he could muster, would be
+ready next day, and in the meanwhile a number of men would conduct me
+to the shooting-ground. He asked to be shown the books of birds and
+animals, and no sooner saw some specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than,
+in utter surprise, he exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird
+was caught and stamped upon the paper," using action to his words,
+and showing what he meant, while all his followers n'yanzigged for the
+favour of the exhibition.
+
+In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the scenery
+and sport excessively. A noble buck nsunnu, standing by himself, was the
+first thing seen on this side, though a herd of hertebeests were grazing
+on the Usoga banks. One bullet rolled my fine friend over, but the
+rabble looking on no sooner saw the hit than they rushed upon him and
+drove him off, for he was only wounded. A chase ensued, and he was
+tracked by his blood when a pongo (bush box) was started and divided
+the party. It also brought me to another single buck nsunnu, which
+was floored at once, and left to be carried home by some of my men in
+company with Waganda, whilst I went on, shot a third nsunnu buck, and
+tracked him by his blood till dark, for the bullet had pierced his lungs
+and passed out on the other side. Failing to find him on the way home,
+I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a wonderful goatsucker,
+remarkable for the exceeding length of some of its feathers floating out
+far beyond the rest in both wings. [21] Returning home, I found the men
+who had charge of the dead buck all in a state of excitement; they no
+sooner removed his carcass, than two lions came out of the jungle and
+lapped his blood. All the Waganda ran away at once; but my braves feared
+my answer more than the lions, and came off safely with the buck on
+their shoulders.
+
+23d.--Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison Creek, and
+when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer about going to
+Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid accidents might happen,
+and he would not take me. Nothing would frighten this pig-headed
+creature into compliance, though I told him I had arranged with the king
+to make the Nile the channel of communication with England. I therefore
+applied to him for guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay
+and Kasoro to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu,
+coming to Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by the
+river. I shot another buck in the evening, as the Waganda love their
+skins, and also a load of guinea-fowl--three, four, and five at a
+shot--as Kasoro and his boys prefer them to anything.
+
+24th.--The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his place,
+and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow, humbugging
+Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace would branch off
+from the first state, though in reality it was here. The Mkungu's women
+brought pombe, and spent the day gazing at us, till, in the evening,
+when I took up my rifle, one ran after Bana to see him shoot, and
+followed like a man; but the only sport she got was on an ant-hill,
+where she fixed herself some time, popping into her mouth and devouring
+the white ants as fast as they emanated from their cells--for,
+disdaining does, I missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my
+anxiety to show the fair one what she came for.
+
+Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace. Kasoro improved
+on their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two Kamravionas and two
+Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of Sunna's time, had been
+executed by the orders of king Mtesa. He told us, moreover, that if
+Mtesa ever has a dream that his father directs him to kill anybody as
+being dangerous to his person, the order is religiously kept. I wished
+to send a message to Mtesa by an officer who is starting at once to
+pay his respects at court; but although he received it, and promised to
+deliver it, Kasoro laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would
+ever reach the king; for, however, appropriate or important the matter
+might be, it was more than anybody dare do to tell the king, as it would
+be an infringement of the rule that no one is to speak to him unless in
+answer to a question. My second buck of the first day was brought in by
+the natives, but they would not allow it to approach the hut until it
+had been skinned; and I found their reason to be a superstition
+that otherwise no others would ever be killed by the inmates of that
+establishment.
+
+I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance
+from the water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle and
+plantain-gardens. Nango, an old friend, and district officer of the
+place, first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash and dried
+fish, with pombe. He told us he is often threatened by elephants, but
+he sedulously keeps them off with charms; for if they ever tasted a
+plantain they would never leave the garden until they had cleared it
+out. He then took us to see the nearest falls of the Nile--extremely
+beautiful, but very confined. The water ran deep between its banks,
+which were covered with fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons
+of lilac convolvuli; whilst here and there, where the land had slipped
+above the rapids, bared places of red earth could be seen, like that
+of Devonshire; there, too, the waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked
+like a huge mill-pond, sullen and dark, in which two crocodiles, laving
+about, were looking out for prey. From the high banks we looked down
+upon a line of sloping wooded islets lying across the stream, which
+divide its waters, and, by interrupting them, cause at once both dam and
+rapids. The whole was more fairy-like, wild, and romantic than--I must
+confess that my thoughts took that shape--anything I ever saw outside
+of a theatre. It was exactly the sort of place, in fact, where, bridged
+across from one side-slip to the other, on a moonlight night, brigands
+would assemble to enact some dreadful tragedy. Even the Wanguana seemed
+spellbound at the novel beauty of the sight, and no one thought of
+moving till hunger warned us night was setting in, and we had better
+look out for lodgings.
+
+Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard that
+three Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the murder,
+the march was commenced, but soon after stopped by the mischievous
+machinations of our guide, who pretended it was too late in the day
+to cross the jungles on ahead, either by the road to the source or the
+palace, and therefore would not move till the morning; then, leaving
+us, on the pretext of business, he vanished, and was never seen again.
+A small black fly, with thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the
+place, and torments the naked arms and legs of the people with its sharp
+stings to an extent that must render life miserable to them.
+
+After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and jungle,
+we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe than by calling
+it a "Church Estate." It is dedicated in some mysterious manner to
+Lubari (Almighty), and although the king appeared to have authority
+over some of the inhabitants of it, yet others had apparently a sacred
+character, exempting them from the civil power, and he had no right to
+dispose of the land itself. In this territory there are small villages
+only at every fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high
+again, whilst, from want of a guide, we often lost the track. It now
+transpired that Budja, when he told at the palace that there was no road
+down the banks of the Nile, did so in consequence of his fear that if he
+sent my whole party here they would rob these church lands, and so bring
+him into a scrape with the wizards or ecclesiastical authorities. Had my
+party not been under control, we could not have put up here; but on my
+being answerable that no thefts should take place, the people kindly
+consented to provide us with board and lodgings, and we found them very
+obliging. One elderly man, half-witted--they said the king had driven
+his senses from him by seizing his house and family--came at once on
+hearing of our arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty maniacal
+manner, carrying odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of mbugu rags, which
+he deposited before me, dancing and singing again, then retreating and
+bringing some more, with a few plantains from a garden, when I was to
+eat, as kings lived upon flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived
+with lions and elephants in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly
+was empty. He was precisely a black specimen of the English parish
+idiot.
+
+At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading huge
+grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately devastated by
+elephants--they had eaten all that was eatable, and what would not serve
+for food they had destroyed with their trunks, not one plantain or one
+hut being left entire--we arrived at the extreme end of the journey, the
+farthest point ever visited by the expedition on the same parallel of
+latitude as king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of it.
+
+We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the falls,
+was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in Africa. Everybody
+ran to see them at once, though the march had been long and fatiguing,
+and even my sketch-block was called into play. Though beautiful, the
+scene was not exactly what I expected; for the broad surface of the lake
+was shut out from view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet
+deep, and 400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks. Still it was a
+sight that attracted one to it for hours--the roar of the waters, the
+thousands of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all their might;
+the Wasoga and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats and taking post
+on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and crocodiles lying
+sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the falls, and cattle
+driven down to drink at the margin of the lake,--made, in all, with the
+pretty nature of the country--small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in
+the folds, and gardens on the lower slopes--as interesting a picture as
+one could wish to see.
+
+The expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old father
+Nile without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and, as I had
+foretold, that lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled
+the first expounder of our religious belief. I mourned, however, when I
+thought how much I had lost by the delays in the journey having deprived
+me of the pleasure of going to look at the north-east corner of the
+N'yanza to see what connection there was, by the strait so often spoken
+of, with it and the other lake where the Waganda went to get their
+salt, and from which another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an
+island." But I felt I ought to be content with what I had been spared
+to accomplish; for I had seen full half of the lake, and had information
+given me of the other half, by means of which I knew all about the lake,
+as far, at least, as the chief objects of geographical importance were
+concerned.
+
+Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. Comparative
+information assured me that there was as much water on the eastern side
+of the lake as there is on the western--if anything, rather more. The
+most remote waters, or top head of the Nile, is the southern end of the
+lake, situated close on the third degree of south latitude, which gives
+to the Nile the surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over
+thirty-four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than
+one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now from this southern
+point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream issues, there
+is only one feeder of any importance, and that is the Kitangule river;
+whilst from the southernmost point, round by the east, to the strait,
+there are no rivers at all of any importance; for the travelled Arabs
+one and all aver, that from the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to
+the lake where it is cut by the second degree, and also the first degree
+of south latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country
+is hilly, not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great
+rivers, and the country was so scantily watered, having only occasional
+runnels and rivulets, that they always had to make long marches in order
+to find water when they went on their trading journeys: and further,
+those Arabs who crossed the strait when they reached Usoga, as mentioned
+before, during the late interregnum, crossed no river either.
+
+There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe is not
+a salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as before stated,
+that the natives call all lakes salt, if they find salt beds or salt
+islands in such places. Dr Krapf, when he obtained a sight of the Kenia
+mountain, heard from the natives there that there was a salt lake to
+its northward, and he also heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the
+Nile. If his information was true on this latter point, then, without
+doubt, there must exist some connection between his river and the salt
+lake I have heard of, and this in all probability would also establish
+a connection between my salt lake and his salt lake which he heard was
+called Baringo. [22] In no view that can be taken of it, however, does
+this unsettled matter touch the established fact that the head of the
+Nile is in 3 deg. south latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the
+head of the Victoria N'yanza to be.
+
+I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who
+presided over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition was got
+up; and the arm of water from which the Nile issued, Napoleon Channel,
+in token of respect to the French Geographical Society, for the honour
+they had done me, just before leaving England, in presenting me with
+their gold medal for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza. One thing
+seemed at first perplexing--the volume of water in the Kitangule looked
+as large as that of the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the
+other swift, and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of
+their relative values.
+
+Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not resist
+sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the weather
+prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of the place said a
+magnificent view of the lake could be obtained from the hill alluded to
+as intercepting the view from the falls, we proposed going there; but
+Kasoro, who had been indulged with nsunnu antelope skins, and with
+guinea-fowl for dinner, resisted this, on the plea that I never should
+be satisfied. There were orders given only to see the "stones," and if
+he took me to one hill I should wish to see another and another, and
+so on. It made me laugh, for that had been my nature all my life; but,
+vexed at heart, and wishing to trick the young tyrant, I asked for boats
+to shoot hippopotami, in the hope of reaching the hills to picnic; but
+boating had never been ordered, and he would not listen to it. "Then
+bring fish," I said, that I might draw them: no, that was not ordered.
+"Then go you to the palace, and leave me to go to Urondogani to-morrow,
+after I have taken a latitude;" but the wilful creature would not
+go until he saw me under way. And as nobody would do anything for me
+without Kasoro's orders, I amused the people by firing at the ferry-boat
+upon the Usoga side, which they defied me to hit, the distance being 500
+yards; but nevertheless a bullet went through her, and was afterwards
+brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of mbugu. Bombay then
+shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I spent the day out
+watching the falls.
+
+This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and felt as
+if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht, rifle and rod, to
+make me happy here for life, so charming was the place. What a place, I
+thought to myself, this would be for missionaries! They never could
+fear starvation, the land is so rich; and, if farming were introduced by
+them, they might have hundreds of pupils. I need say no more.
+
+In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed with
+long heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to one end,
+rushed to a place over a break in the falls, which tired fish seemed to
+use as a baiting-room, dashed in their forks, holding on by the shaft,
+and sent men down to disengaged the pined fish and relieve their spears.
+The shot they made in this manner is a blind one--only on the chance of
+fish being there--and therefore always doubtful in its result.
+
+Church Estate again. As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were still
+against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change, I sacrificed
+the taking of the latitude to gain time. I sent Bombay with Kasoro to
+the palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself to be sent with an order for
+five boats, five cows, and five goats, and also for a general order to
+go where I like, and do what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for,
+though I know the king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on
+separating I retraced my steps to the Church Estate.
+
+1st.--To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need for
+hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda, offered a
+tempting shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and breakfast in a
+neighbouring village. This being agreed to, the animal was despatched,
+and we no sooner entered the village than we heard that nsamma, a
+magnificent description of antelope, abound in the long grasses close
+by, and that a rogue elephant frequents the plantains every night. This
+tempting news created a halt. In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an
+animal very much like the Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated
+mark over the rump; and at night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an
+elephant, which we distinctly heard feasting on plantains; but rain was
+falling, and the night so dark, he was left till the morning.
+
+2d.--I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering an
+irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost after
+hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses. An enormous snake,
+with fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the men. In the evening
+I wounded a buck nsamma, which, after tracking till dark, was left to
+stiffen ere the following morning; and just after this on the way home,
+we heard the rogue elephant crunching the branches not far off from the
+track; but as no one would dare follow me against the monster at this
+late hour, he was reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens.
+
+3d.--After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck lying
+in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at bay, and took
+another bullet. This was all we wanted, affording one good specimen; so,
+after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi, where the villagers, hearing
+of the sport we had had, and excited with the hopes of getting flesh,
+begged us to halt a day.
+
+4th.--Not crediting the stories told by the people about the sport
+here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than several men ran
+hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to be shot close by.
+This was too powerful a temptation to be withstood, so, shouldering the
+rifle, and followed by half the village, if not more, women included,
+we went to the place, but, instead of finding a buck--for the men had
+stretched a point to keep me at their village--we found a herd of does,
+and shot one at the people's urgent request.
+
+We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters, where
+the women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and potatoes, as before,
+with occasional fish, and we lived very happily till the 10th, shooting
+buck, guinea-fowl, and florikan, when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my
+work began again. These two worthies reached the palace, after crossing
+twelve considerable streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in
+the lake. The evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they
+obtained an interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed
+across his mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the Waganda
+having been too much for the party. He was speedily undeceived by the
+announcement that nothing was the matter, excepting the inability to
+procure boats, because the officers at Urondogani denied all authority
+but the Sakibobo's, and no one would show Bana anything, however
+trifling, without an express order for it.
+
+Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who happened
+to be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said warmly, "Pray,
+who is the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should be preferred to
+mine?" and then turning to the Sakibobo himself, asked what he would pay
+to be released? The Sakibobo, alive to his danger, replied at once,
+and without the slightest hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty
+slaves, eighty mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco,
+eighty jowari, and eighty of all the produce of Uganda. He was then
+released. Bombay said Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to Urondogani,
+and gave him a start with five boats, five cows, and five goats; to
+which the king replied, "Bana shall have all he wants, nothing shall be
+denied him, not even fish; but it is not necessary to send the Sakibobo,
+as boys carry all my orders to kings as well as subjects. Kasoro will
+return again with you, fully instructed in everything, and, moreover,
+both he and Budja will follow Bana to Gani." Four days, however, my men
+were kept at the palace ere the king gave them the cattle and leave to
+join me, accompanied with one more officer, who had orders to find the
+boats at once, see us off, and report the circumstance at court. Just
+as at the last interview, the king had four women, lately seized and
+condemned to execution, squatting in his court. He wished to send them
+to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he had no authority to take
+women in that way, the king gave him one, and asked him if he would like
+to see some sport, as he would have the remaining women cut to pieces
+before him. Bombay, by his own account, behaved with great propriety,
+saying Bana never wished to see sport of that cruel kind, and it would
+ill become him to see sights which his master had not. Viarungi sent
+me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said he and the Wazina had
+just obtained leave to return to their homes, K'yengo alone, of all
+the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until Mtesa's powder-seeking
+Wakungu returned. Finally, the little boy Lugoi had been sent to his
+home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report.
+
+11th.--The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there were
+none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went to Kirindi
+for sailors, and down the stream for boats. On hearing the king's order
+that I was to be supplied with fish, the fishermen ran away, and pombe
+was no longer brewed for fear of Kasoro.
+
+12th.--To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey--the
+remaining three and one goat having been lost in the Luajerri--and gave
+the women of the place beads in return for their hospitality. They are
+nearly all Wanyoro, having been captured in that country by king Mtesa
+and given to Mlondo. They said their teeth were extracted, four to six
+lower incisors, when they were young, because no Myoro would allow a
+person to drink from his cup unless he conformed to that custom. The
+same law exists in Usoga.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad
+
+First Voyage on the Nile--The Starting--Description of the River and
+the Country--Meet a Hostile Vessel--A Naval Engagement--Difficulties
+and Dangers--Judicial Procedure--Messages from the King of
+Uganda--His Efforts to get us back--Desertion--The Wanyoro
+Troops--Kamrasi--Elephant-Stalking--Diabolical Possessions.
+
+In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with mbugu
+rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-followers, and
+a small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro--goats, dogs, and kit,
+besides grain and dried meat, filling up the complement--but how many
+days it would take nobody knew. Paddles propelled these vessels, but the
+lazy crew were slow in the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing
+spurts, then composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle
+current drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from
+the Ripon Falls downward, bore at once the character of river and
+lake--clear in the centre, but fringed in most places with tall rush,
+above which the green banks sloped back like park lands. It was all very
+pretty and very interesting, and would have continued so, had not Kasoro
+disgraced the Union Jack, turning it to piratical purposes in less than
+one hour.
+
+A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single tree
+trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and having
+stored their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains cooked and raw,
+pombe, and other things, were taking their last meal on shore before
+they returned to their homes. Kasoro seeing this, and bent on a boyish
+spree, quite forgetting we were bound for the very ports they were bound
+for, ordered our sailors to drive in amongst them, landed himself, and
+sent the Wanyoro flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to
+pillaging and feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our
+interest to propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our hosts.
+
+The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency of
+Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be found here;
+but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our boatmen disgorge
+everything they had taken, called back the Wanyoro to take care of their
+things, and extracted a promise from Kasoro that he would not practise
+such wicked tricks again, otherwise we could not travel together.
+Getting to boat again, after a very little paddling we pulled in to
+shore, on the Uganda side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the
+injured Wanyoro to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by
+this interruption, but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on.
+This was the last village on the Uganda frontier, and before we could
+go any farther on boats it would be necessary to ask leave of Kamrasi's
+frontier officer, N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The Wanguana demanded
+ammunition in the most imperious manner, whilst I, in the same tone,
+refused to issue any lest a row should take place and they then would
+desert, alluding to their dastardly desertion in Msalala, when Grant was
+attacked. If a fight should take place, I said they must flock to me
+at once, and ammunition, which was always ready, would be served out to
+them. They laughed at this, and asked, Who would stop with me when the
+fight began? This was making a jest of what I was most afraid of--that
+they would all run away.
+
+I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The Waganda
+wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently, arguing that
+etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me, they said, N'yamyonjo
+had a hundred boats, and would drive us back to a certainty if we tried
+to force past them, if he were not first spoken with, as the Waganda had
+often tried the passage and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued
+that Grant must have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all
+these difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let
+Bombay start at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after giving
+him time to say we are coming. This point gained after a hot debate,
+Bombay started at 10 a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it being but one
+hour's journey by water. The frontier line was soon crossed; and then
+both sides of the river, Usoga as well as Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
+
+I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and there
+was nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for Kidgwiga
+had promised boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to Gani, where
+Petherick's vessels were said to be stationed; but this hope shared the
+fate of so many others in Africa. In a little while an enormous canoe,
+full of well-dressed and well-armed men, was seen approaching us. We
+worked on, and found they turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster,
+they did the same, the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum,
+until at last it became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their
+superior numbers. The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's.
+On a rock by the river stood a number of armed men, jumping, jabbering,
+and thrusting with their spears, just as the Waganda do. I thought,
+indeed, they were Waganda doing this to welcome us; but a glance
+at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me such was not the case, but, on the
+contrary, their language and gestures were threats, defying us to land.
+
+The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was crowned
+with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and lines of men,
+all fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the canoe we had chased
+turned broadside on us, and joined in the threatening demonstrations
+of the people on shore. I could not believe them to be serious--thought
+they had mistaken us--and stood up in the boat to show myself, hat
+in hand. I said I was an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I
+could, but without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a
+drum beat, they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should be;
+and Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river, preparing everybody
+to arm. This was serious. Further, a second canoe full of armed men
+issued out from the rushes behind us, as if with a view to cut off
+our retreat, and the one in front advanced upon us, hemming us in. To
+retreat together seemed our only chance, but it was getting dark, and my
+boats were badly manned. I gave the order to close together and retire,
+offering ammunition as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat,
+which seemed so paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and round
+like a crippled duck.
+
+The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say, "They are
+women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept roaring to my
+men, "Keep together--come for powder;" and myself loaded with small
+shot, which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire if it was intended for
+the Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like guinea-fowl;" and he laughed
+again. But confound my men! they would not keep together, and retreat
+with me. One of those served with ammunition went as hard as he could
+go up stream to be out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the
+dark shade of the rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired
+for the benefit of our guns. It was not getting painfully dark, and the
+Wanyoro were stealing on us, as we could hear, though nothing could be
+seen. Presently the shade-seeking boat was attacked, spears were thrown,
+fortunately into the river instead of into our men, and grappling-hooks
+were used to link the boats together. My men cried, "Help, Bana! they
+are killing us;" whilst I roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the
+victory will be ours;" but not a soul would--they were spell-bound to
+the place; we might have been cut up in detail, it was all the same to
+those cowardly Waganda, whose only action consisted in crying, "N'yawo!
+n'yawo!"--mother, mother, help us!
+
+Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The Wanyoro
+had caught a Tartar. Two of their men fell--one killed, one wounded.
+They were heard saying their opponents were not Waganda, it were better
+to leave them alone; and retreated, leaving us, totally uninjured, a
+clear passage up the river. But where was Bombay all this while! He did
+not return till after us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told
+his tale. He reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the
+officer, but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive,
+as he had gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however, why we
+had robbed the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a complaint against
+us. Bombay replied it was no fault of Bana's, he did everything he could
+to prevent it, and returned all that the boatmen took.
+
+These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when they
+asked Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he had received
+no invitation to spend the night; and unless he walked off soon they
+would set fire to his hut. Bombay, without the smallest intention of
+moving, said he had orders to see N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he
+would not budge. "Well," said the people, "you have got your warning,
+now look out for yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was
+left again. Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with
+spears and shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing
+the cause, Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into
+the jungle, and, without daring to venture on the beaten track, through
+thorns and thicket worked his way back to me, lame, and scratched all
+over with thorns.
+
+Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate us
+in the morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears at us,
+denoting a victory gained--for we had shot Wanyoro and no harm had
+befallen us. "But the road," I cried, "has that been gained? I am not
+going to show my back. We must go again, for there is some mistake;
+Grant is with Kamrasi, and N'yamyongo cannot stop us. If you won't go
+in boats, let us go by land to N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow
+after." Not a soul, however, would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an
+independent chief, who listened to Kamrasi only when he liked. He did
+not like strange eyes to see his secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if
+he did not wish us to go down the river, Kamrasi's orders would go for
+nothing. His men had now been shot; to go within his reach would be
+certain death. Argument was useless, boating slow, to send messages
+worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the Nile, and the following day
+(16th) came on the Luajerri.
+
+Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not far off,
+on its return from Kamrasi's. I could not, rather would not, believe it,
+suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse. The men, however,
+were positive, and advised my going to king Mtesa's--a ridiculous
+proposition, at once rejected; for I had yet to receive Kamrasi's answer
+to our Queen, about opening a trade with England. I must ascertain
+why he despised Englishmen without speaking with them, and I could not
+believe Kamrasi would prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or
+Mtesa, especially as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our
+actions. We slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats
+which had been drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having
+been a third time to the palace and back again, called to ask after our
+welfare, on behalf of his king, and remind us about the gun and brandy
+promised.
+
+17th and 18th.--The two following days were spent wandering about
+without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after leaving
+us, crossing at first a line of small hills, then traversing grass and
+jungle, like the dak of India. Plantain-gardens were frequently met, and
+the people seemed very hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly
+of the pages rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they
+could lay their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just
+prepared for their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If it
+were not out of respect for you we should fight those little rascals,
+for it is not the king's guest nor his men who do us injury, but the
+king's own servants, without leave or licence." I observed that special
+bomas or fences were erected to protect these villages against the
+incursions of lions. Buffaloes were about, but the villagers cautioned
+us not to shoot them, holding them as sacred animals; and, to judge from
+the appearance of the country, wild animals should abound, were it not
+for the fact that every Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman.
+
+At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard his
+drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to be too
+late. He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda, as the people
+had told us, and passed through N'yakinyama just before I reached it.
+What had really happened I knew not, and was puzzled to think. To insist
+on a treaty, demanding an answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance
+left; so I wrote to Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the
+result. He very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after
+stopping there an age asking for the road without effect, and left by
+the orders of Kamrasi, thinking obedience the better policy to obtain
+our ends. Two great objections had been raised against us; one was that
+we were reported to be cannibals, and the other that our advancing by
+two roads at once was suspicious, the more especially so as the Waganda
+were his enemies; had we come from Rumanika direct, there would have
+been no objection to us.
+
+When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the great
+king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a nervous,
+fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were attempting his
+country by the unusual mode of taking two routes at once, but wholly so
+of the Waganda, who had never ceased plundering his country for years.
+As it appeared that he would have accepted us had we come by the
+friendly route of Kisuere, a further parley was absolutely necessary,
+and the more especially so, as now we were all together and in Uganda,
+which, in consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring
+evil designs against him. No one present, however, could be prevailed on
+to go to him in the capacity of ambassador, as the frontier officer had
+warned the Wageni or guests that, if they ever attempted to cross the
+border again, he was bound in duty, agreeably to the orders of his king,
+to expel them by force; therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after
+this warning, their first appearance would be considered a casus belli;
+and so the matter rested for the day.
+
+To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten up," we
+repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja was found
+firm and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro. His pride had been
+injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He would wait here three or
+four days as I proposed, to see what fortune sent us, if I would not
+be convinced that Kamrasi wished to reject us, and he would communicate
+with his king in the meantime, but nothing more. Here was altogether a
+staggerer: I would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not
+have us by that time, what was to be done? Would it be prudent to try
+Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it not be
+better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by offering Mtesa five
+hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads, if he would give us a
+thousand Waganda as a force to pass through the Masai to Zanzibar, this
+property to be sent back by the escort from the coast? Kamrasi would no
+doubt catch it if we took this course, but it was expensive.
+
+Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had been
+listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at Mtesa'a place,
+had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and Vittagura, Kamrasi's
+commander-in-chief, to say their king was very anxious to see us, and
+the Waganda might come or not as they liked. Until now, the deputation
+said, Kamrasi had doubted Budja's word about our friendly intentions,
+but since he saw us withdrawing from his country, those doubts were
+removed. The N'yamswenge, they said--meaning, I thought, Petherick--was
+still at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish to
+enter Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka had left for
+Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from Kamrasi.
+
+21st.--I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept brooding over
+the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that they might come
+or not as they liked, and considering us with himself to have all been
+treated "like dogs," begged me to give him my opinion as to what course
+he had better pursue; for he must, in the first instance, report the
+whole circumstances to the king, and could not march at once. This was
+a blight on our prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of
+Budja waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered
+his Wakungu to accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march
+altogether.
+
+I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily accounted
+for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an enemy's country,
+and was naturally suspicious of us; that had now been changed by
+our withdrawing, and he invited us to him. Without doubt, his
+commander-in-chief was never very far away, and followed on our heels.
+Such precaution was only natural and reasonable on Kamrasi's part,
+and what had been done need not alarm any one. "If you do your duty
+properly, you will take us at once into Unyoro, make your charge over to
+these men, and return or not as you like; for in doing so you will have
+fulfilled both Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders at once." "Very good," says
+Budja, "let it be so; for there is great wisdom in your words: but I
+must first send to my king, for the Waganda villagers have struck two of
+your men with weapons" (this had happened just before my arrival
+here), "and this is a most heinous offence in Uganda, which cannot be
+overlooked. Had it been done with a common stick, it could have been
+overlooked; but the use of weapons is an offence, and both parties must
+go before the king." This, of course, was objected to on the plea that
+it was my own affair. I was king of the Wanguana, and might choose to
+dispense with the attendance. The matter was compromised, however, on
+the condition that Budja should march across the border to-morrow, and
+wait for the return of these men and for further orders on the Unyoro
+side.
+
+The bait took. Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for his going
+to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some medicine--that is to
+say, brandy--for his king; and sent his men off with mine to tell Mtesa
+all our adventures--our double repulse, the intention to wait on the
+Unyoro side for further orders, and the account of some Waganda having
+wounded my men. I added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a complaint
+against Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten cows, five
+goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu. It was not that we required these
+things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be given to us, and
+I thought it right we should show that his officers, if they professed
+to obey his orders, had peculated. After these men had started, some
+friends of the villager who had been apprehended on the charge of
+assailing my men, came and offered Budja five cows to overlook the
+charge; and Budja, though he could not overlook it when I pleaded for
+the man, asked me to recall my men. Discovering that the culprit was a
+queen's man, and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should
+the king order the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but things
+had gone too far.
+
+Again the expedition marched on in the right direction. We reached the
+last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent the night. Here
+Grant shot a nsunnu buck. The Wanguana mutinied for ammunition, and
+would not lift a load until they got it, saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous
+country," though they had been there before without any more than they
+now had in pouch. The fact was, my men, in consequence of the late
+issues on the river, happened to have more than Grant's men, and every
+man must have alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had
+lately fired at a dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had
+fired a salute, which was contrary to orders; for ammunition was at a
+low ebb, and I had done everything in my power to nurse it. Therefore,
+as a warning to the others, the guns of these two were confiscated,
+and a caution given that any gun in future let off, either by design or
+accident, would be taken.
+
+To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed boundary-line,
+and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation of officers, and so
+shake off the apprehensions which had teased us for so many days.
+This first march was a picture of all the country to its capital: an
+interminable forest of small trees, bush, and tall grass, with scanty
+villages, low huts, and dirty-looking people clad in skins; the
+plantain, sweet potato, sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief
+edibles, besides goats and fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported
+to be numerous, being kept, as everywhere else where pasture-lands are
+good, by the wandering, unsociable Wahuma are seldom seen. No hills,
+except a few scattered cones, disturb the level surface of the land, and
+no pretty views ever cheer the eye. Uganda is now entirely left behind;
+we shall not see its like again; for the further one leaves the equator,
+and the rain-attracting influences of the Mountains of the Moon,
+vegetation decreases proportionately with the distance.
+
+Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party as
+ours, and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to our great
+delight, through the same style of forest acacia, cactus, and tall
+grass, to Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner arrived than Mtesa's
+messenger-page, with a party of fifty Waganda, dropped in, in the most
+unexpected manner, to inquire after "his royal master's friend, Bana."
+The king had heard of the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana
+must be very good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun
+and ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he desired
+that above all things on earth. This was the fourth message to remind
+us of these important matters which we had received since leaving his
+gracious presence, and each time brought by the same page. While the
+purpose of the boy's coming with so many men was not distinctly known,
+the whole village and camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja
+fearing lest the king had some fault to find with his work, and the
+Wanyoro deeming it a menace of war, whilst I was afraid they might take
+fright and stop our progress.
+
+But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have mentioned as a
+present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and the page departed with
+it. Some of Rumanika's men, who came into Unyoro with Baraka, with four
+of K'yengo's, were sent to call us by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men
+it transpired that he had stood security for our actions, else, with
+the many evil reports of our being cannibals and such-like, which had
+preceded our coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the
+country. The Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the Wanyamuezi,
+and almost as badly dressed, now came about us to hawk ivory ornaments,
+brass and copper twisted wristlets, tobacco, and salt, which they
+exchanged for cowries, with which they purchase cows from the Waganda.
+As in Uganda, all the villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard
+the Wageni (guests) were coming; and no one paid the least attention
+to the traveller, save the few head-men attached to the escort, or some
+professional traders.
+
+25th to 28th.--I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura
+counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if the
+Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us, he did not
+want the Waganda. It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja should tell this
+to his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for when the Waganda came the
+first time to see him, three of his family died; and when they came the
+second time, three more died; and as this rate of mortality was quite
+unusual in his family circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic.
+The presence of people who brought such results was of course by no
+means desirable. This neat message elicited with a declaration of the
+necessity of Budja's going to Gani with us, and a response from the
+commander-in-chief, probably to terrify the Waganda, that although Gani
+was only nine days' journey distant from Kamrasi's palace, the Gani
+people were such barbarians, they would call a straight-haired man a
+magician, and any person who tied his mbugu in a knot upon his shoulder,
+or had a full set of teeth as the Waganda have, would be surely killed
+by them. Finally, we must wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us
+or not. Such was Unyoro diplomacy.
+
+An announcement of a different kind immediately followed. The king had
+heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when they first came
+to me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to ascertain if this was
+true. Of course, I said they were my guests in Uganda, and if they had
+been wise they would have eaten their cow on the spot; what was that to
+Kamrasi? It was a pity he did not treat us as well who have come into
+his country at his own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in
+this gloomy wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;--why
+could not he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu,
+meaning myself, had really come yet. All fudge!
+
+Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on both
+sides, and more might have been lost in the same way, only we
+amused Vittagura and gave him confidence by showing our pictures,
+looking-glass, scissors, knives, etc., when he promised a march in the
+morning, leaving a man behind to bring on the Wanguana sent to Mtesa's,
+it being the only alternative which would please Budja; for he said
+there was no security for life in Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls
+himself the biggest man, and no true hospitality is to be found.
+
+The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the aid
+of the compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed from the one
+which Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were leading us into
+a trap, and would not be convinced we were going on all right till I
+pulled out the compass and confirmed the Wanyoro. We were anything but
+welcomed at Kiratosi, the people asking by what bad luck we had come
+there to eat up their crops; but in a little while they flocked to our
+doors and admired our traps, remarking that they believed each iron box
+contained a couple of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders,
+sitting straddle-legs, back to back, and they fly off to eat people
+whenever they get the order. One of these visitors happened to be the
+sister of one of my men, named Baruti, who no sooner recognised her
+brother, than, without saying a word, she clasped her head with her
+hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her husband what she had seen. A
+spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the Wanguana were returning from
+Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the king.
+
+31st.--Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last night,
+and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the Uganda frontier,
+expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same time that he approved
+highly of my having sent men back to inform him of Kamrasi's conduct,
+begged we would instantly return, even if found within one march of
+Kamrasi's, for he had much of importance to tell his friend Bana. The
+message continued to this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about
+the road to the coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and,
+fearing I might be short of powder, he had sent some with the Wanguana.
+Both Wanguana were by the king given women for their services, and an
+old tin cartridge-box represented Mtesa's card, it being an article of
+European manufacture, which, if found in the possession of any Mganda,
+would be certain death to him. Finally, all the houses and plantains
+where my men were wounded had been confiscated.
+
+When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return without
+a day's delay. I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I did not like my
+men having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and pronounced in public that
+I would not return. It would be an insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I
+was now in his "house" at his own invitation. I wished Bombay would go
+with him (Kidgwiga) at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent
+Budja with Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present
+from Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi
+acknowledged it by a return-present, that there would be no more
+fighting between them. I said I had left England to visit these
+countries for the purpose of opening up a trade, and I had no orders
+to fight my way except with the force of friendship. That Rumanika had
+accepted my views Kamrasi must be fully aware by Baraka's having visited
+him; and that Mtesa did the same must also be evident, else he would
+never have ordered his men to accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly
+trusted that these Waganda would be allowed to go with me, when, by the
+influence of trade, all animosity would cease, and friendly relations be
+restored between the two countries.
+
+This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic man,
+dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja, and wished
+to know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for the king had heard
+of their intention last night; and when told by Budja his story, and
+by Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a shadow. Budja, now turning to
+me, said, "If you won't go back, I shall; for the orders of Mtesa must
+always be obeyed, else lives will be lost; and I shall tell him that
+you, since leaving his country, and getting your road, have quite
+forgotten him." "If you give such a message as that," I said, "you will
+tell a falsehood. Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's
+house, to be an enemy with one whose friendship I desire. I am not only
+in honour bound to speak with Kamrasi, but I am also bound to carry out
+the orders of my country just as much as you are yours; moreover, I have
+invited Petherick to come to Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it
+would be ill-becoming in me to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as
+he would then certainly find Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja
+then tried the coaxing dodge, saying, "There is much reason in your
+words, but I am sorry you do not listen to the king, for he loves you
+as a brother. Did you not go about like two brothers--walking, talking,
+shooting, and even eating together? It was the remark of all the
+Waganda, and the king will be so vexed when he finds you have thrown him
+over. I did not tell you before, but the king says, 'How can I answer
+Rumanika if Kamrasi injures Bana? Had I known Kamrasi was such a savage,
+I would not have let Bana go there; and I should now have sent a
+forge to take him away, only that some accident might arise from it by
+Kamrasi's taking fright; the road even to Gani shall be got by force if
+necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent, Budja turned again and
+threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If you choose to disobey,
+we will see whether you ever get the road to Gani or not; for Kamrasi is
+at war on all sides with his brothers, and Mtesa will ally himself with
+them at any moment that he wishes, and where will you be then?"
+
+Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here would much
+embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had been attentively
+listening, like timid hares, made up their minds to leave me, and tried,
+through Bombay, to obtain a final interview with me, saying they knew
+Mtesa's power, and disobedience to him would only end in taking away all
+chance of escape. In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I
+had seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of
+unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent a
+message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to leave my
+guns; and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as they reached
+the coast, they would be put into prison for three years. The scoundrels
+insolently said "tuende setu" (let's be off), rushed to the Waganda
+drums, and beat the march.
+
+1st.--Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I
+called him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa, and
+instructed him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as I had seen
+Kamrasi about opening the road; that I trusted he would take all the
+guns from the deserters and keep them for me, but the men themselves I
+wished transported to an island on the N'yanza, for I could never allow
+such scoundrels again to enter my camp. It was the effect of desertions
+like these that prevented any white men visiting these countries. This
+said, the Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana,
+armed with twenty-two carbines. Amongst them was the wretched governess,
+Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful magician, because I
+possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary power in inclining all the
+black kings' hearts to me, and induced them to give the roads no one
+before of my colour had ever attempted to use.
+
+With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen carbines, I
+now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even sufficient force
+to lift the loads. A little while elapsed, and a party of fifty Wanyoro
+rushed wildly into camp, with their spears uplifted, and looked for the
+Waganda, but found them gone. The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had
+returned to Kamrasi's, told him our story, and received orders to snatch
+us away from the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was
+most anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered
+Unyoro before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers had ever
+been treated with such a visitation; therefore he had sent on these
+fifty men to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and secure us. But again,
+in a little while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju, in the same wild manner, at
+the head of 150 warriors, with the soldier's badge--a piece of mbugu
+or plantain-leaf tied round their heads, and a leather sheath on their
+spear-heads, tufted with cow's-tail--rushed in exultingly, having found,
+to their delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that
+they had gained an easy victory. They were certainly a wild set of
+ragamuffins--as different as possible from the smart, well-dressed,
+quick-of-speech Waganda as could be, and anything but prepossessing to
+our eyes. However, they had done their work, and I offered them a cow,
+wishing to have it shot before them; but the chief men, probably wishing
+the whole animal to themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all
+the king's servants, and therefore could not touch a morsel.
+
+Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go on ahead
+to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was brought with beads
+by Gani before Baraka's arrival here. It was shown to Baraka in the hope
+that we would come by the Karague route, but not to Mabruki, because he
+came from Uganda. Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on
+Mtesa when he lifted Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle
+on the border--which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so.
+The twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of the
+deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had they seen
+the Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their minds; but the other
+side said, "What! those brutes who said we should all die here if we
+stayed, and yet dared not face the danger with us, should we now give
+them a helping hand? Never! We told them we would share our fate with
+Bana, and share it we will, for God rules everything: every man must die
+when his time comes."
+
+We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never
+allowed to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war demand
+it, or for a dance. Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition to our own
+twenty men, carried the luggage, though no one carried more than the
+smallest article he could find. It was a pattern Unyoro march, of only
+two hours' duration. On arrival at the end we heard that elephants had
+been seen close by. Grant and I then prepared our guns, and found a herd
+of about a hundred feeding on a plain of long grass, dotted here and
+there by small mounds crowned with shrub. The animals appeared to be all
+females, much smaller than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired
+at, none were killed, and only one made an attempt to charge. I was with
+the little twin Manua at the time, when, stealing along under cover of
+the high grass, I got close to the batch and fired at the larges, which
+sent her round roaring. The whole of them then, greatly alarmed, packed
+together and began sniffing the air with their uplifted trunks, till,
+ascertaining by the smell of the powder that their enemy was in front of
+them, they rolled up their trunks and came close to the spot where I was
+lying under a mound. My scent then striking across them, they pulled up
+short, lifted their heads high, and looked down sideways on us. This
+was a bad job. I could not get a proper front shot at the boss of any of
+them, and if I had waited an instant we should both have been picked
+up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their temples, and instead of
+killing, sent the whole of them rushing away at a much faster pace than
+they came. After this I gave up, because I never could separate the
+ones I had wounded from the rest, and thought it cruel to go on damaging
+more. Thinking over it afterwards, I came to the conclusion I ought to
+have put in more powder; for I had, owing to their inferior size to
+the Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them with the same
+charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros. Though
+puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants seldom ran far,
+packed in herd, and began to graze again. Frij, who was always ready at
+spinning a yarn, told us with much gravity that two of my men, Uledi and
+Wadi Hamadi, deserters, were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar.
+Uledi, not wishing to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the
+march, sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's
+orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who preferred
+taking his chance, had been visited several times: once at Usui, when
+he was told the journey would be prosperous, only the devil wanted one
+man's life, and one man would fall sick; which proved true, for Hassani
+was murdered, and Grant fell sick in Karague. The second time Wadi
+Hamadi saw the devil in Karague, and was told one man's life would be
+required in Uganda, and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and
+a third time, in Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the
+journey would be prosperous but protracted.
+
+3d.--Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected and
+kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the truth of
+our position. I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and looking into his
+magic horn; and was answered, "No; he is very anxious to see you, or he
+would not have sent six of his highest officers to look after you, and
+prevent the unruly peasantry from molesting you." "Then by whose orders
+are we kept here?" "By Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?" "He
+thinks you are not so near, and men have gone to tell him." "How did we
+come here from the last ground?" "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing can
+be done excepting by his orders." "Then he must know we are here?" "He
+may not have seen the men we sent to him; for unless he shows in public
+no one can see him." The whole affair gave us such an opinion of Kamrasi
+as induced us to think it would have served him right had we joined
+Mtesa and given him a thrashing. This, I said, was put in our power by
+an alliance with his refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed
+and said, "Nonsense! Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round
+here--Usoga, Kidi, Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold
+up his hand and thousands would come to his assistance." Kwibeya, the
+officer of the place, presented us with five fowls on the part of the
+king, and some baskets of potatoes.
+
+4th.--We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might give
+us all the king had desired him to present. I sent Bombay off with
+a message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging for an early
+interview, as I had much of importance to communicate, and wished, of
+all things, to see the letter he had from Gani, as it must have come
+from our dear friends at home. Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were
+now brought to us; and as Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success,
+he flew into a fit of high indignation because these things were given
+and received without his having first been consulted. He was the big man
+and appointed go-between, and no one could dispute it. This was rather
+startling news to us, for Vittagura said he was commander-in-chief;
+Kajunju thought himself biggest, so did Kwibeya, and even Dr K'yengo's
+men justified Budja's speech.
+
+5th and 6th.--Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. Frij, it
+appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came to fight us for
+not complying with his orders, and that all my men ran away except Uledi
+and himself. This, according to the interpretation of the coast, would
+turn out the reverse, otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according
+to local science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the
+temples; and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I opened
+and ran away with, he thought it would turn out no letter at all, and
+therefore Kamrasi had been humbugging us. We heard that Bombay had shot
+a cow before Kamrasi and would not be allowed to return until he had
+eaten it.
+
+At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through the
+usual forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were their park.
+We hoped at starting to reach the palace, but found we must stop here
+until the king should send for us. We were informed that doubtless he
+was looking into his Uganga, or magic horn, to discover what he had to
+expect from us; and he seemed as yet to have found no ground for being
+afraid of us. Moreover, it is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him
+in this way, for is he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which
+includes all the countries surrounding Unyoro?
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVII. Unyoro
+
+Invitation to the Palace at last--Journey to it--Bombay's Visit to King
+Kamrasi--Our Reputation as Cannibals--Reception at Court--Acting the
+Physician again--Royal Mendicancy.
+
+We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came to
+invite us to the palace. He explained that Kamrasi was in a great rage
+because we only received seven goats instead of thirty, the number he
+had ordered Kwibeya to give us, besides pombe and plantains without
+limitation. I complained that Bombay had been shown more respect than
+myself, obtaining an immediate admittance to the king's presence.
+To this he gave two ready answers--that every distinction shown my
+subordinate was a distinction to myself, and that we must not expect
+court etiquette from savages.
+
+9th.--We set off for the palace. This last march differed but little
+from the others. Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and going on despite
+all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit of jungle, sighted the
+Kidi hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass, at last we stood in front of
+and overlooked the great king's palace, situated N. lat. 1 deg. 37' 43", and
+E. long. 32 deg. 19' 49", on a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile
+rivers. It was a dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones,
+and the worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza. Here
+Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with running,
+in the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for leading us on,
+and ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and ascertained the place
+his majesty wished us to reside in. Recollecting Mtesa's words that
+Kamrasi placed his guest on the N'yanza, I declined going to any place
+but the palace, which I maintained was my right, and waited for the
+issue, when Kajunju returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty
+set of huts beyond the Kafu river--the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza
+branches which we crossed in Uganda--and trusted this would do for the
+present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked for on
+the morrow. This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of the usual
+anathemas in which our countrymen give vent to their irritation.
+
+Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith, were
+sent for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on the morrow.
+To keep us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi and Mtesa--in fact,
+all the Wahuma--came originally from a stock of the same tribe dwelling
+beyond Kidi. All bury their dead in the same way, under ground; but the
+kings are toasted first for months till they are like sun-dried meat,
+when the lower jaw is cut out and preserved, covered with beads. The
+royal tombs are put under the charge of special officers, who occupy
+huts erected over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth,
+and, at death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst
+those of women are buried without--this last act corresponding,
+according to Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow. On the death of
+any of the great officers of state, the finger-bones and hair are also
+preserved; or if they have died shaven, as sometimes occurs, a bit of
+their mbugu dress will be preserved in place of the hair. Their families
+guard their tombs.
+
+The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro, was
+confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once saw one
+in the possession of an official person, but it died. The horn then was
+stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army was ordered for war, it
+was placed on the war-track for the soldiers to step over, in the same
+way as a child is sacrificed to insure victory in Unyomuezi. Of the
+Karague story, according to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees,
+Kidgwiga gave me a modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son,
+whilst the married folk dwell in houses. As most of these stories have
+some foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes
+mount a tree to sleep at night when travelling through their forests,
+where lions are plentiful--but not otherwise.
+
+10th.--I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a request
+that his majesty would change my residence, which was so filthy that
+I found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that he would favour me
+with an interview after breakfast. The return was a present of twenty
+cows, ten cocks, two bales of flour, and two pots of pombe, to be
+equally divided between Grant and myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us
+two distinct camps, because we approached his country by two different
+routes--a smart method for expecting two presents from us, which did not
+succeed, as I thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion.
+The king also sent his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to
+us on entering his country, saying it could not have taken place had we
+come from Rumanika direct. His fear of the Waganda gave rise to it, and
+he trusted we would forget and forgive. To-morrow our residence should
+be changed, and an interview follow, for he desired being friends with
+us just as much as we did with him.
+
+At last Bombay came back. He reported that he had not been allowed to
+leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that I expected his
+return; and the only excuse he could extract from the king was, that we
+were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and he had found it necessary to
+retard our approach in consequence of the famine at Chaguzi. His palace
+proper was not here, but three marches westward: he had come here and
+pitched a camp to watch his brothers, who were at war with him. Bombay,
+doing his best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very
+anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us away.
+
+It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our relief
+yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the jungle longer.
+When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile, the king first said he
+did not think we wished to see him, else we would have come direct from
+Rumanika; but when asked if Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was
+not sufficient to satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and
+evaded the question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda;
+but he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and left.
+[23] The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was now asked for,
+and a suggestion made about opening a trade with Gani, but all with the
+provoking result we had been so well accustomed to. No letter like that
+referred to had ever been received, so that Frij's interpretation about
+Grant's letter-dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king
+would send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him lay
+upon the road. As to the Uganda question, and my desiring him to make
+friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of trade would prevent
+any plundering in future, he merely tossed his head. He often said he
+did not know what to think about his guests, now he had got them; to
+which Bombay, in rather successful imitation of what he had heard me say
+on like occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen
+them, cut their heads off, for they are all in your hands."
+
+11th.--With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning to
+inquire how we had slept. He had "heard our cry"--an expression of regal
+condescension--and begged we would not be alarmed, for next morning he
+would see us, and after the meeting change our residence, when, should
+we not approve of wading to his palace, he would bridge all the
+swamps leading up to it; but for the present he wanted two rounds of
+ball-cartridge--one to fire before his women, and the other before his
+officers and a large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit. To
+please this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and
+no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. Bombay,
+however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to continued demands
+on our short store of powder, said he had no order to shoot cows, and
+declined. A strong debated ensued, which Bombay, by his own account,
+turned to advantage, by saying, "What use is there in shooting cows? we
+have lots of meat; what we want is flour to eat with it." To which the
+great king retorted, "If you have not got flour, that is not my fault,
+for I ordered your master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along
+with him."
+
+Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he ordered the
+cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it, saying at the same
+time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I will show you what devils
+these Wanguana are: with firearms they can kill a cow with one bullet;
+and as they are going to Gani, I advise you not to meddle with them."
+The Kidi visitors said, "Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but
+we will see." Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire
+over the cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so--Bana would be angry
+with him. "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go back to
+your master, tell him you have disappointed me before these men, and
+obtain permission to shoot the cow in the morning; after which, should
+you succeed, your master can come after breakfast to see me--but for the
+present, take him this pot of pombe."
+
+12th.--To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more
+cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep Kamrasi to
+his word about the oft-promised interview and change of residence. He
+gave me the following account on his return:--Upwards of a thousand
+spectators were present when he killed the cow, putting both bullets
+into her, and all in a voice, as soon as they saw the effect of the
+shot, shouted in amazement; the Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken,
+crying out, as they clasped their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us
+to return to our country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man
+with you, and we are greatly afraid!"--a lot of humbug and affectation
+to flatter the king, which pleased him greatly. It was not sufficient,
+however, to make him forget his regal pride; for though Bombay pleaded
+hard for our going to see him, and for a change of residence, the
+immovable king, to maintain the imperial state he had assumed as "king
+of kings," only said, "What difference does it make whether your master
+sees me to-day or to-morrow? If he wants to communicate about the road
+to Gani, his property at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so
+as well through the medium of my officers as with me direct, and I will
+send men whenever he wishes to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but I
+expect men from Gani every day, who took a present of slaves, ivory
+and monkey-skins to the foreigners residing there, who, in the first
+instance sent me a necklace of beads [showing them] by some men who wore
+clothes. They said white men were coming from Karague, and requested the
+beads might be shown them should they do so. They left this two moons
+before Baraka arrived here, and I told them the white men would not come
+here, as I heard they had gone to Uganda."
+
+Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for his
+inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his country twice,
+and now, after inviting us, treating us as Suwarora did. On this
+he gave, by Bombay's account, the following curious reason for his
+conduct:--"You don't understand the matter. At the time the white men
+were living in Uganda, many of the people who had seen them there came
+and described them as such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the
+N'yanza dry; and although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were
+not satisfied until they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human
+beings three times a-day. Now, I was extremely anxious to see men of
+such wonderful natures. I could have stood their mountain-eating and
+N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on no consideration would I submit to
+sacrifice my subjects to their appetites, and for this reason I first
+sent to turn them back; but afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men
+that, although the white men had travelled all through their country,
+and brought all the pretty and wonderful things of the world there,
+they had never heard such monstrous imputations cast upon them, I sent a
+second time to call them on: these are the facts of the case. Now, with
+regard to your accusation of my treating them badly, it is all their own
+fault. I ordered them to advance slowly and pick up food by the way, as
+there is a famine here; but they, instead, hurried on against my
+wishes. That they want to see and give me presents you have told me
+repeatedly--so do I them; for I want them to teach me the way to shoot,
+and when that is accomplished, I will take them to an island near
+Kidi, where there are some men [his refractory brothers] whom I wish
+to frighten away with guns; but still there is no hurry,--they can come
+when I choose to call them, and not before." Bombay to this said, "I
+cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told so many falsehoods
+about your saying you will have an interview to-morrow, I shall only
+catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed.
+
+13th.--More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga up, and
+told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should find his king a
+good and reasonable man, which I believed, considering it was said by an
+unprejudiced person. Mtesa, on the contrary, told me Kamrasi treated
+all his guests with disrespect, sending them to the farther side of the
+N'yanzi. I now found his enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished
+him to be told so. "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention
+his name again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite
+forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and fear,
+merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." He was
+reported to-day, by the way, to be drunk.
+
+As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king being
+in his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but with the usual
+effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I sent another messenger
+to say, if our residence was not changed at once, both Grant and myself
+had made up our minds to cut off our hair and blacken our faces, so that
+the king of all kings should have no more cause to fear us. Ignoring his
+claims to imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating
+us must be fear,--it could be nothing else. This message acted like
+magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and disappoint him
+altogether of the strange sight of us as pure white men. The reply was,
+Kamrasi would not have us disfigured in this way for all the world;
+men were appointed to convey our traps to the west end at once; and
+Kidgwiga, Vittagura, and Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all
+hast lest we should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us
+with our faces unchanged. I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's
+party, and one to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it was
+through their instrumentality we gained admittance in the country;
+and we changed residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and found there
+comfortable huts close to the Kafu, which ran immediately between us and
+the palace.
+
+Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one. In a long field of
+grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so that no walks could
+be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's miserable huts and a few
+distant conical hills, of which one Udongo, we conceive, represents the
+Padongo of Brun-Bollet, placed by him in 1 deg. south latitude, and 35 deg. east
+longitude. We were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent
+a cheer of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains,
+hoping we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the whole in
+a moment again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which his officers
+had seen in Grant's possession. I took what he sent, from fear of giving
+offence, but replied that I was surprised the great king should wish to
+see my property before seeing myself, and although I attached no more
+value to my property than he did to his, I could not demean myself by
+sending him trifles in that way. However, should he, after hearing my
+sentiments, still persist in asking for the knife to be sent by the
+hands of a black man, I would pack it up with all the things I had
+brought for him, and send them by a black man, judging that he liked
+black men more than white.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with an army
+of Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-island north of
+this about three days' journey, but each time it ended in nothing.
+You fancy yourself, they said, in a magnificent army, but the enemy no
+sooner turn out than the cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally
+as soon as not into the hands of the opponents. They said Kamrasi would
+not expect us to attack them with our guns. Rionga was the head of
+the rebels; there were formerly five, but now only two of the brothers
+remained.
+
+15th.--Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had slept,
+through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the knife question of
+yesterday, thinking it very strange that after giving me such nice food
+I should deny him the gratification of simply looking at a knife; he did
+not intend to keep it if it was not brought for him, but merely to look
+at and return it. To my reply of yesterday I added, I had been led,
+before entering Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all kings--the
+greatest king that ever was, and one worthy to be my father; but now,
+as he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered himself in my
+estimation to the position of being my child. To this the sages said,
+"Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. Of course he is
+displeased at seeing his property preferred before himself; all
+the right is on his side: we will now return and see what can be
+done--though none but white men in their greatest dare send such
+messages to our king."
+
+Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a cow
+from me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because both they
+and myself were the king's guests, and it ill became one to eat that
+which was given as a dinner for the other. Fortunately, foreseeing this
+kind of policy, as Kamrasi had been watching our actions, I invariably
+gave in presents those cows which came with us from Uganda, and
+therefore defied any one to meddle with them. This elicited the true
+facts of the case. Dr K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to
+observe if anybody received presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his
+subjects would have the fleecing of us before his turn came; and these
+men had reported the two cows given by me as mentioned above. Kamrasi
+no sooner heard of this than he took the cows and kept them himself. In
+their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said that had they not been in the
+country before us, Kamrasi would not have had such guests at all; for
+when he asked them if the Waganda reports about our cannibalism and
+other monstrosities were true, their head man denied it all, offered
+to stand security for our actions, and told the king if he found us
+cannibals he might make a Mohammedan of him, and sealed the statement
+with his oath by throwing down his shield and bow and walking over
+them. To this Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will accept your
+statements, but you must remain with me until they come."
+
+Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found
+staring at us. I requested a definite answer would be given as regards
+Kamrasi's seeing us. Dr K'yengo's men then said they were kept a week
+waiting before they could obtain an interview, whilst Kajunju excused
+his king by saying, "At present the court is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani,
+and other visitors, who he does not wish should see you, as some may
+be enemies in disguise. They are all now taking presents of cows from
+Kamrasi, and going to their homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of,
+your turn will come."
+
+16th.--We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have upon
+the king. Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi sent him
+with a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived close to a high
+mountain, two months' journey distant, to the east or south-east of
+this, and beg for a magic horn, as that king's doctor was peculiarly
+famed for his skill as a magician. The party carried with them 600
+majembe (iron spades), two of which expended daily paid for their board
+and lodgings on the way. The horn applied for was sent by a special
+messenger to Kamrasi, who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which
+date, the two kings, whenever one of them wishes to communicate with the
+other, sends, on the messenger's neck, the horn that had been given him,
+which both serves for credentials and security, as no one dare touch a
+Mbakka with one of these horns upon his neck.
+
+A common source of conversation among our men now was the desertion of
+their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would repent it when they
+heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every day; and Uledi now, in a
+joking manner, abused Mektub for having urged him to desert. He would
+not leave Bana, and if he had not stopped, Mektub would have gone,
+for they both served one master at Zanzibar, and therefore were like
+brothers; whilst Mektub, laughing over the matter as if it were a good
+joke, said, "I packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if
+I got back to the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me again."
+M'yinzuggi, the head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day a tippet
+monkey-skin in return for the cow I had given him on the 14th. These
+men, taking their natures from their king Rumanika, are by far the
+most gentle, polite, and attentive of any black men we have travelled
+amongst.
+
+17th.--Tired and out of patience with our prison--a river of crocodiles
+on one side, and swamps in every other direction, while we could not go
+out shooting without a specific order from the king--I sent Kidgwiga and
+Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we could bear this life no longer. As he
+did not wish to see white men, our residing here could be of no earthly
+use. I hoped he would accept our present from Bombay, and give us leave
+to depart for Gani. The Wakungu, who thought, as well as ourselves, that
+we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with the message,
+and soon returned with a message from their king that he was busily
+engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant reception; for he
+was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody who had ever visited him
+before. We should have seen him yesterday, only that it rained; and,
+as a precaution against our meeting being broken up, a shed was being
+built. He could not hear of our leaving the country without seeing him.
+
+18th.--At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but the
+suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things we had
+brought for him before we went there. Here was another hitch. I could
+not submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but if he wished Bombay
+to convey my present to him, I saw no harm in the proposition. The king
+waived the point, and we all started, carrying as a present the things
+enumerated in the note. [24] The Union Jack led the way. At the ferry
+three shots were fired, when, stepping into two large canoes, we all
+went across the Kafu together, and found, to our surprise, a small hut
+built for the reception, low down on the opposite bank, where no strange
+eyes could see us.
+
+Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double matting
+of skins--cows' below and leopards' above--on an elevated platform of
+grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking, enshrouded in his mbugu
+dress, for all the world like a pope in state--calm and actionless.
+One bracelet of fine-twisted brass wire adorned his left wrist, and his
+hair, half an inch long, was worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs
+by rubbing the hand circularly over the crown of the head. His eyes were
+long, face narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his
+breed; and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high,
+he was not so large as Rumanika. A cow-skin, stretched out and fastened
+to the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling, and a curtain of
+mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in front of which, on both
+sides of the king, sat about a dozen head men.
+
+This was all. We entered and took seats on our own iron stools, whilst
+Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the throne. As no
+greetings were exchanged, and all at first remained as silent as death,
+I commenced, after asking about his health, by saying I had journeyed
+six long years (by the African computation of five months in the year)
+for the pleasure of this meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the
+Nile, because the "Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated
+the projects of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro.
+The purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would like
+to trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of European
+manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come here in the same
+way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. Rumanika and Mtesa were both
+anxious for trade, and I felt sorry he would not listen to my advice and
+make friend with Mtesa; for unless the influence of trade was brought in
+to check the Waganda from pillaging the country, nothing would do so.
+
+Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the
+questions, told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from the
+Waganda, said he did not believe them, else his rivers, deprived of
+their fountains, would have run dry; and he thought, if we did eat hills
+and the tender parts of mankind, we should have had enough to satisfy
+our appetites before we reached Unyoro. Now, however, he was glad to
+see that, although our hair was straight and our faces white, we still
+possessed hands and feel like other men.
+
+The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon the red
+blanket. The goggles created some mirth; so did the scissors, as Bombay,
+to show their use, clipped his beard, and the lucifers were considered a
+wonder; but the king scarcely moved or uttered any remarks till all
+was over, when, at the instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer
+was asked for and shown. This wonderful instrument, said the officers
+(mistaking it for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men
+found their way everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for, besides
+it, the gun was the only thing new to him. The chronometer, however,
+I said, was the only one left, and could not possibly be parted with;
+though, if Kamrasi liked to send men to Gani, a new one could be
+obtained for him.
+
+Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked Bombay,
+"Who governs England?" "A woman." "Has she any children?" "Yes," said
+Bombay, with ready impudence; "these are two of them" (pointing to Grant
+and myself). That settled, Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked
+cows, or cows of any peculiar colour, and would we like to change four
+large cows for four small ones, as he coveted some of ours. This was a
+staggerer. We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this stupid king
+the impression that we were not mere traders, ready to bargain with him.
+We would present him with cows if we had such as he wanted, but we could
+not bargain. The meeting then broke up in the same chilling manner as it
+began, and we returned as we came, but no sooner reached home than four
+pots of pombe were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely.
+The present gave great satisfaction. The Wanguana accused Frij of having
+"unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long as it should
+do--it being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that unless the man's
+hands are pure who cuts the throat of an animal, its flesh will not last
+fresh half the ordinary time.
+
+19th.--As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind too much
+for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of the guns left
+in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers with one of my men to
+ask Mtesa for them, and also the same proportion of the sixty loads of
+property left in charge of Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the
+requisite number of porters for its removal. But of all things, I said,
+I most wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of
+our whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our arrival
+there, and by the same opportunity I would get a watch for the king. He
+sent us to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of salt, and what might be
+called a screw of butter, with an assurance that the half of everything
+that came to his house--and everything was brought from great distances
+in boats--he would give me; but for the present the only thing he was
+in need of was some medicine or stimulants. Further, I need be under no
+apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three respective
+journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he loved me much, and
+desired to show us so much respect that his name should be celebrated
+for it in songs of praise until he was bowed down by years, and even
+after death it should be remembered.
+
+I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure, came
+from an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles west from the
+Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty or fifty miles wide.
+It is the same piece of water we heard of in Karague as the Little
+Luta Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same story of Unyoro being an island
+circumscribed by it and the Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is
+related here, showing that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed
+all negroes and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of
+using the same word for a peninsula and an island. The Waijasi--of whom
+we saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip edged
+with a row of small holes, at Karague--occupy a large island on
+this lake named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit Kamrasi. Ugungu,
+a dependency of Kamrasi's, occupies this side, the lake, and on the
+opposite side is Ulegga; beyond which, in about 2 deg. N. lat. And 28 deg. E.
+long., is the country of Namachi; and further west still about 2 deg., the
+Wilyanwantu, or cannibals, who, according to the report both here and at
+Karague, "bury cows but eat men." These distant people pay their homage
+to Kamrasi, though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over.
+They are, I believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams--another name for
+cannibal--whose country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. Among the
+other wild legends about this people, it was said that the Wilyanwantu,
+in making brotherhood, exchanged their blood by drinking at one
+another's veins; and, in lieu of butter with their porridge, they smear
+it with the fat of fried human flesh.
+
+20th.--I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but Kamrasi,
+harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an attack on his
+brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of that; we would only
+find that all the waters united go to Gani, and he wished us to be
+his guests for three or four months at least. Fifty Gani men had just
+arrived to inform him that Rionga had lately sent ten slaves and ten
+ivory tusks to Petherick's post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was,
+that a thousand times as much would not purchase a weapon that might
+be used against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and
+nothing would be done to jeopardise our road.
+
+To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him. We went as
+before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar reception. The Gani
+news was talked over, and we proposed sending Bombay with a letter at
+once. I could get no answer; so, to pass the time, we wished to know
+from the king's own lips if he had prevented Baraka from going to Gani,
+as he had carried orders from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit
+Kamrasi, to give him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and
+seventy necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani
+and give its chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi.
+Kamrasi replied, "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you had
+gone to Uganda"; and Dr K'yengo's men happening to be present, added,
+"Baraka used up all the beads save forty which he gave to Kamrasi,
+living upon goats all the way; and when he left, took back a tusk of
+ivory."
+
+This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi, who had
+his eye on a certain valuable possession of mine. He made his approach
+towards it by degrees, beginning with a truly royal speech thus: "I am
+the king of all these countries, even including Uganda and Kidi--though
+the Kidi people are such savages they obey no man's orders--and you are
+great men also, sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes
+us to talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever
+return this way I shall get more from you." "Begging your majesty's
+pardon," I said, "the mention of beads only fell in the way of our talk
+like stones in a walk; our motive being to get at the truth of what
+Baraka did and said here, as his conduct in returning after receiving
+strict orders from Rumanika and ourselves to open the road, is a perfect
+enigma to us. We could not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through
+Uganda, and we could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its
+king." Without deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language
+of a black man, said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep secrets from
+you, and therefore I will tell you at once; I am sadly afflicted with a
+disorder which you alone can cure." "What is it, your majesty? I can see
+nothing in your face; it may perhaps require a private inspection." "My
+heart," he said, "is troubled, because you will not give me your magic
+horn--the thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day
+when Budja and Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner
+looked at it than you said, 'That is the way to the palace.'"
+
+So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this time,
+and I can get nothing out of him until he has got it--the road to the
+lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on his getting my
+watch--a chronometer worth L50, which would be spoilt in his hands
+in one day. To undeceive him, and tell him it was the compass which I
+looked at and not the watch, I knew would only end with my losing
+that instrument as well; so I told him it was not my guide, but a
+time-keeper, made for the purpose of knowing what time to eat my dinner
+by. It was the only chronometer I had with me; and I begged he would
+have patience until Bombay returned from Gani with another, when he
+should have the option to taking this or the new one. "No; I must have
+the one in your pocket; pull it out and show it." This was done, and I
+placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument is yours, but I must
+keep it until another one comes." "No; I must have it now, and will send
+it you three times every day to look at."
+
+The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings following it;
+and the horrid king asked if I could make up another magic horn, for he
+hoped he had deprived us of the power of travelling, and plumed himself
+on the notion that the glory of opening the road would devolve upon
+himself. When I told him that to purchase another would cost five
+hundred cows, the whole party were more confirmed than ever as to its
+magical powers; for who in his sense would give five hundred cows for
+the mere gratification of seeing at what time his dinner should be
+eaten? Thus ended the second meeting. Kamrasi now said the Gani men
+would feast on beef to-morrow, and the next day be ready to start with
+my men for Petherick's camp. He then accompanies us to the boats, spear
+in hand, and saw us cross the water. Long tail-hairs of the giraffe
+surrounded his neck, on which little balls and other ornaments of minute
+beads, after the Uganda fashion, were worked. In the evening four
+pots of pombe and a pack of flour were brought, together with the
+chronometer, which was sent to be wound up--damaged of course--the
+seconds-hand had been dislodged.
+
+21st.--I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now ordered to
+go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when the latter shot his
+first cow at the palace, but had gone to their homes to give information
+of us, and had returned again. Eager to get on with my journey, and see
+European faces again, I besought the king to let us depart, as our work
+was all finished here, since he had assured us he would like to trade
+with England. The N'yanswenge--meaning Petherick's party--who have
+hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had seen
+us pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property left to come
+from Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could not wait for. Kamrasi,
+thinking me angry for his having taken the watch so rudely out of my
+pocket, took fright at the message, sent some of his attendants quickly
+back to me, requesting me to keep the instrument until another arrived,
+and begged I would never say I wished to leave his house again.
+
+22d.--Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but to-morrow,
+so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at once; if he would
+give us guides to Gani, we would return him his twenty cows and seven
+goats with pleasure. I let him understand we suspected he was keeping us
+here to fight his brothers, and told him he must at once know we would
+never lift hand against them. It was contrary to the laws of our land.
+"I have got no orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my mother"
+(the Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home, would
+be very angry if she heard of it. Rumanika once asked me to fight his
+brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to all had been the
+same--I have no orders to fight with, only to make friends of, the great
+kings of Africa."
+
+The game seemed now to be won. At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to prepare
+for the journey. Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five Gani men, were
+to escort him. There was no objection to his carrying arms. The moment
+he returned, which ought to be in little more than a fortnight, we would
+all go together. An earnest request was at the same time made that
+I would not bully him in the mean time with any more applications to
+depart. So Bombay and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and
+letter for Petherick, departed.
+
+23d and 24th.--Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our eyes,
+sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would like us to
+inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this morning reached--a
+fact which he had no doubt must be divinable through the medium of our
+books. The reply was, that Bombay's luck was so good we had no doubt
+regarding his success; but now he had gone, and our days here were
+numbered, we should like to see the palace, his fat wives and children,
+as well as the Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place. We did
+not think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and
+our residence here was altogether like that of prisoners--seeing no one,
+knowing no one. In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot of pombe and
+five fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we should see everything
+in good time, if we would but have patience, for he considered us
+very great men, as he was a great man himself, and we had come at his
+invitation. He must request, in the mean time, that we would send no
+more messages by his officers, as such messages are never conveyed
+properly. At present there was a great deal of business in the palace.
+
+We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in the
+palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all day long, to
+make themselves immovably fat.
+
+25th.--In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a
+horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on well.
+That being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order, as Kamrasi was
+coming to see us. Accordingly we made everything as smart as possible,
+hanging the room round with maps, horns, and skins of animals, and
+places a large box covered with a red blanket, as a throne for the king
+to set upon. As he advanced, my men, forming a guard of honour fired
+three shots immediately on his setting foot upon our side the river;
+whilst Frij, with his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to
+prepare us for his majesty's approach. We saluted him, hat in hand,
+and, leading the way, showed him in. He was pleased to be complimentary,
+remarking, what Waseja (fine men) we were, and took his seat. We sat
+on smaller boxes, to appear humble, whilst his escort of black "swells"
+filled the doorway, squatting on the ground, so as to stop the light and
+interfere with our decorations.
+
+After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a nsamma
+buck, and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains hanging over
+the bed, and begged for them. He was told they could not be given until
+Bombay returned, as the mosquitoes would eat us up. "But there were
+two," said the escort, "for we have seen one in the other hut." That
+was true; but were there not two white men? However, if the king wanted
+gauze, here was a smart gauze veil--and the veil vanished at once. The
+iron camp-bed was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant,
+which was coveted and begged for, but without success, much to the
+astonishment of the king, as his attendants had led him to expect he
+would get anything he asked for. Then the thermometers were wanted and
+refused; also table-knives, spoons, forks, and even cooking-pots, for
+we had no others, and could not part with them. The books of birds and
+animals had next to be seen, and being admired were coveted, the king
+offering one of the books I first gave him in exchange for one of these.
+In fact, he wanted to fleece us of everything; so, to shut him up, I
+said I would not part with one bird for one hundred tusks of ivory; they
+were all the collections I had made in Africa, and if I parted with
+them my journey would go for nothing; but if he wanted a few drawings
+of birds I would do some for him--at present I wished to speak to him.
+"Well, what is it? we are all attention." "I wish to know positively if
+you would like English traders to come here regularly, as the Arabs do
+to trade at Karague? and if so, would you give me a pembe (magic horn)
+as a warrant, that everybody may know Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, desires
+it?"
+
+Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall have the
+horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you please; and after
+you have gone, should we hear any English are at Gani wishing to come
+here, as my brothers are in the way we will advance with spears whilst
+they approach with guns, and between us both, my brothers must fly--for
+I myself will head the expedition. But now you have had your say I will
+have mine if you will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?" "I
+am constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no remedy
+but cautery; my children die young; my family is not large enough to
+uphold my dignity and station in life; in fact, I am infirm and want
+stimulants, and I wish you to prescribe for me, which considering you
+have found your way to this, where nobody came before, must be easy
+to you." Two pills and a draught for the morning were given as a
+preliminary measure, argument being of no avail; and to our delight the
+king said it was time to go.
+
+We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our persecutions
+were over; but still he sat, and sat, until at length, finding we did
+not take the hint to give him a parting present, he said, "I never
+visited any big man's house without taking home some trifle to show my
+wife and children." "Indeed, great king! then you did not come to visit
+us, but to beg, eh? You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for
+we will not have it said the king did not come to see us, but to beg."
+Kamrasi's face changed colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us
+rise and go), and forthwith walked straight out of the hut. Frij piped,
+but no guns fired; and as he asked the reason why he was told it would
+be offensive to say we were glad he was going. The king was evidently
+not pleased for no pombe came to-day.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XVIII. Unyoro--Continued
+
+The Ceremonies of the New Moon--Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline--An
+Embassy from Uganda, and its Results--The Rebellious Brothers--An
+African Sorcerer and his Incantations--The Kamraviona of Unyoro--Burial
+Customs--Ethiopian Legends--Complicated Diplomacy for our
+Detention--Proposal to send Princes to England--We get away.
+
+26th.--We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the new
+moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant drumming was
+the order of the day. Still, private interviews might be granted, and
+I sent to inquire after the state of the king's health. The reply was,
+that the medicine had not taken, and the king was very angry because
+nothing was given him when he took the trouble to call on us. He never
+called at a big man's house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if
+there was nothing else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a
+bag of beads?
+
+To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought it would
+be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully him. Accordingly,
+we tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads, added the king's
+chronometer, and sent them to Kamrasi with a violent message that we
+were thoroughly disgusted with all that had happened; the beads were for
+the poor beggar who came to our house yesterday, not to see us, but to
+beg; and as we did not desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made
+up our minds never to call again, nor receive any more bread or wine
+from the king.
+
+This appeared to be a hit. Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said, if he
+thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not have begged.
+He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he was a beggar,
+of course, when beads were in the question; and, having unwittingly
+offended, as he desired our friendship, he trusted his offence would
+be forgiven. On opening the chronometer, he again wrenched back the
+seconds-hand, and sent it for repair, together with two pots of pombe
+as a peace-offering. Frij, who accompanied the deputation, overheard the
+counsellors tell their king that the Waganda were on their way back to
+Unyoro to snatch us away; on hearing which the king asked his men if
+they would ever permit it; and, handling his spear as if for battle,
+said at the same time he would lose his own head before they should
+touch his guests. Then, turning to Frij, he said, "What would you do
+if they came?--go back with them?" To which Frij said, "No, never, when
+Gani is so near; they might cut our heads off, but that is all they
+could do." The watch being by this time repaired, it gave me the
+opportunity of sending Kidgwiga back to the palace to say we trusted
+Kamrasi would allow Budja to come here, if only with one woman to carry
+his pombe, else Mtesa would take offence, form an alliance with Rionga,
+and surround the place with warriors, for it was not becoming in great
+kings to treat civil messengers like dogs.
+
+The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my
+fatherly wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing Budja only
+to approach with one woman; we need, however, be under no apprehensions,
+for Kamrasi's power was infinite; the Gani road should be opened even at
+the spear's point; he had been beating the big drum in honour of us the
+whole day; he would not allow any beggars to come and see us, for he
+wanted us all to himself, and for this reason had ordered a fence to
+be built all round our house; but he had got no present from Grant yet,
+though all he wanted was his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my
+picture-books to show his women, and he returned. We sent a picture of
+Mtesa as a gift, the two books to look at and an acknowledgement that
+the mosquito-curtains were his, only he must have patience until Bombay
+arrived; but his proposition about the fence we rejected with scorn.
+The king had been raising an army to fight Rionga--the true reason, we
+suspect, for the beating of the drums.
+
+27th and 28th.--There was drumming and music all day and night, and the
+army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor prisoners could
+see nothing of it. Frij was therefore sent to inspect the armament and
+brings us all the news. Some of N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed with
+carbines, became very inquisitive about them, and asked if they were
+the instruments which shot at their men on the Nile--one in the arm,
+who died; the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering.
+The drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were
+admitted. Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding punishments
+and seeing them carried out. The most severe instrument of chastisement
+is a knob-stick, sharpened at the back, like that used in Uganda, for
+breaking a man's neck before he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this
+severity is seldom resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition
+compared with Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men
+to be flogged, telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would
+suffer instead of their backs. In the day's work at the palace, army
+collecting, ten officers were bound because they failed to bring a
+sufficient number of fighting men, but were afterwards released on their
+promising to bring more.
+
+Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all
+the lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were never
+expected to go there, for without stilts and respirators it would have
+been impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the people. The king's
+cows, even, are kept in the palace enclosure, the calves actually
+entering the hut, where, like a farmer, Kamrasi walks amongst them up to
+his ankles in filth, and, inspecting them, issues his orders concerning
+them. What has to be selected for his guests he singles out himself.
+
+Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action against the
+refractory brothers, asked leave to return to Karague; but the king,
+who did not fear for their lives when his work was to be done, would not
+give them leave, lest accident should befall them on the way. We found
+no prejudice against eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not
+only sold us some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves.
+
+29th.--The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table
+supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with his
+excuses for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and would
+continue to be so until the army marched. Budja and Kasoro were again
+reported to be near with a force of fifty Waganda, prepared to snatch us
+away; and the king, fearing the consequences, had sent to inform Budja,
+that if he dared attempt to approach, he would slip us off in boats to
+Gani, and then fight it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since
+they had been handed over to him, had been treated with every possible
+respect.
+
+To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear the
+Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that Mtesa only
+wished to make friends with all the great kings surrounding his country
+before his coronation took place, when his brothers would be burnt, and
+he would cease to take advice from his mother. To treat his messengers
+disrespectfully could do no good, and might provoke a war, when we
+should see my deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force
+against us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa
+too, and obviate any such calamity. The reply was, that Kamrasi would
+arrange for our having a meeting with Budja alone if we wished it; he
+did not fear my deserters siding with king Mtesa, but he detested the
+Waganda, and could not bear to see them in his country.
+
+30th.--At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had come to
+our camp without permission, to the surprise of everybody, attended by
+all his boys, leaving Budja and his children, on account of sickness, at
+the camp assigned to the Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak
+to us, and we invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be
+permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been ascertained.
+In a little while the Kamraviona, having seen Kamrasi, said we might
+converse with one another whilst his officers were present listening,
+and sent a cow as a present for the Waganda. Kasoro with his children
+now came before us in their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told
+us how the deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed
+to Karague; but Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach him,
+abused them, saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to Gani at all
+risks? If there was no road by land, you were to go by water; or, if
+that failed, to go under-ground, or in the air above, and if he died,
+you were to die with him: what, then, do you mean by deserting him
+and flying here? You shall not move a yard from this until I receive a
+messenger from him to hear what he has got to say on the matter." Mtesa
+would not take their arms, even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf;
+for as no messenger on my behalf came to him, he would not believe what
+Budja said, and feared to touch any of our property. The chief item of
+court news was, that Mtesa had shot a buffalo which was attacking him
+behind the palace, and made his Wakungu carry the animal bodily, whilst
+life was in it, into his court. The ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika
+had been brought by Maula.
+
+As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I told
+him we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the Nile, and that
+Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant Waganda had forged lies
+and told him we were terrible monsters, who ate hills and human flesh,
+and drank up all the water of the lake. He laughed, but still was
+silent; so I said, "What message have you brought from Mtesa?" To which,
+in a timid, modest kind of manner, he said, "Bana knows--what more need
+I say? Has he forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?" I said, "No, indeed, I
+have not forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again,
+I have sent Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I promised
+Mtesa from Gani; in two or three days he will return." "No," said
+Kasoro, "that is not it; we must go to Gani with you; for Mtesa says he
+loves you so much he will never allow you to part from his hand until
+his servants have seen you safely at your homes."
+
+I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the wonders
+they contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and I shall be
+only too happy to show you a little English hospitality; but the road
+is in Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes must now be heard." The
+commander-in-chief, now content with all he had heard, went to Kamrasi
+to receive his orders, whilst I gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and
+salt, with pombe to wash it down, and a cow to take home with him; for
+the poor creatures said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would
+not allow them to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's
+permission had been given.
+
+Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:--"Tell
+my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of Unyoro by my
+orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so; but, first of all,
+they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to deliver up all of Bana's men."
+I answered, "No; if any one of those scoundrels who has deserted me ever
+dares show his face to me again, I will shoot him like a dog. Moreover,
+I want Mtesa to take their guns from them, and, without taking life,
+to transport them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend
+their days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our
+travelling in the country and visiting kings." Kasoro on this said,
+"Mtesa will do so in a minute if you send a servant to him, but he won't
+if we only say you wish it."
+
+The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to accompany me,
+"If Mtesa will send another time one of his people whose life he wishes
+sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is a man whom I wish you to
+send to Gani at all hazards, and without responsibility for his life on
+our part, we will be very glad to send him; but as we are at war with
+the Gani people continually, there will be no security for a Mganda's
+life there." To this I added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi
+does not wish you to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will
+return to Mtesa. Give this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him,
+back to him again, to show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's
+letter; he wishes you to transport the deserters and seize their guns.
+The guns, of course, I shall want again at some other time, when I will
+send one of my English children to visit him; for now Kamrasi has opened
+his country to us, and given us leave to come and purchase ivory,
+I never shall be very far away." I gave them three pills for Budja,
+blistered two of the pages, and started the whole merrily off, Kasoro
+asking me to send Mtesa some pretty things from England such as he never
+saw.
+
+1st.--Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my health,
+and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest Mtesa should
+cut all their heads off for failing in the mission; but he had sent
+Kidgwiga's brother with a pot of pombe to escort the Waganda beyond
+his frontier, and cheer them on the way; for the tin cartridge-box, he
+thought, would save their lives by satisfying Mtesa they had seen
+me. The commander-in-chief then told me Kamrasi did not wish them to
+accompany me through Kidi for the Kidi people don't like the Waganda,
+and, discovering their nationality by the fullness of their teeth, would
+bring trouble on us whilst trying to kill them. I said I thanked Kamrasi
+for his having treated the Waganda with such marked respect, in allowing
+them to see me, and sending them back with an escort; but I thought it
+would have been better if he had spoken the truth plainly out, for then
+I could have told them I feared to have them in company with me. In
+return for my civilities, the king then send one of his chopi officers
+to see me, who went four stages with Bombay, and he also sent some rich
+beads which he wished me to look at. They were nicely kept in a neat
+though very large casing of rush pith, and were those sent as a letter
+from Gani, to inform him that we were expected to come via Karague.
+After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi sent to inform us that
+some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had just arrived, and had given
+him a lion-skin, several tippet monkey-skins, and some giraffe hair, as
+well as a stick of copper or brass wire. Bombay was met by them on the
+confines of Gani.
+
+2d.--The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my health,
+and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him if I would send
+Frij over to administer it, but he would be ashamed to swallow pills
+before me. Hitherto he had not been able to take the medicine from press
+of business in collecting an army to fight his brothers; but as his
+troops would all leave for war to-day, he expected to have leisure.
+
+In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the annoying
+restraints which made our residence here a sort of imprisonment, I
+discovered that the whole affair was not one of blunder or accident,
+but that we actually were prisoners thus by design. It appeared
+that Kamrasi's brothers, when they heard we were coming into Unyoro,
+murmured, and said to the king, "Why are you bringing such guests
+amongst us, who will practise all kinds of diabolical sorcery, and bring
+evil on us?" To which Kamrasi replied, "I have invited them to come, and
+they shall come; and if they bring evil with them, let that all fall on
+my shoulders, for you shall not see them." He then built a palaver-house
+on the banks of the Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we were to
+go to Gani, it was his intention to slip us off privately down the Kafu.
+The brothers were so thoroughly frightened, that when Kamrasi opened his
+chronometer before them to show them the works in motion, they turned
+their heads away. The large block-tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his
+hongo, was, I heard, called Mzungu, or the white man, by him.
+
+In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for my
+inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of them, and
+would like me to give him a few like them. Some of Kamrasi's spies, whom
+he had sent to the refractory allies of Rionga his brother, returned
+bringing a spear and some grass from the thatch of the hut of a Chopi
+chief. The removal of the grass was a piece of state policy. It was
+stolen by Kamrasi's orders, in order that he might spread a charm on
+the Chopi people, and gain such an influence over them that their spears
+could not prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might
+possess some still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a
+long distance, and Kamrasi would prefer to have ours. These Chopi people
+were leagued with the brothers, and thus kept the highroad to Gani,
+though the other half of Chopi remained loyal; and though Kamrasi
+continually sent armies against the refractory half which aided his
+brothers, they never retaliated by attacking this place.
+
+We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious
+accompaniments which we had been accustomed to hear all day and night
+were to continue for four moons, in celebration of twins born to Kamrasi
+since we came here.
+
+3d.--Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some Gani
+officials arrived to inform him that there were two white men in the
+vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was coming in there, and
+several others were on their way. A carnelian was shown me which the
+Gani people gave to Kamrasi many years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish
+that I would exchange magic powders with him. He had a very large
+variety, and would load a horn for me with all those I desired most. He
+wanted also medicines for longevity and perpetual strength. Those I
+had given him had, he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt much
+reduced by their effects. He would like me to go with him and attack the
+island his three brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and Pohuka, are in possession
+of. When I said I never fought with black men, he wished to know if I
+would not shoot them if they attacked me. My replay was, alluding to
+our fight in the river, "How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?" I found that
+Kamrasi had thirty brothers and as many sisters.
+
+4th.--I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong back,"
+and asked him in return for a horn containing all the powders necessary
+to give me the gift of tongues, so that I should be able to converse
+with any black men whom I might meet with. We heard that Kamrasi has
+called all his Gani guests to play before him, and a double shot from
+his Blissett rifle announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing
+them. This was the first time the gun had been discharged since he
+received it, and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to
+do it for him.
+
+5th.--At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the last
+twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle had been
+removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we wished his magicians
+to come at once and institute a search for it. Kidgwiga immediately
+returned with the necessary adept, an old man, nearly blind, dressed in
+strips of old leather fastened to the waist, and carrying in one hand a
+cow's horn primed with magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with
+leather, from which dangled an iron bell. The old creature jingled the
+bell, entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then
+at the other--inquired what the missing things were like, grunted, moved
+his skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of catching air from all
+four sides of the hut, then dashed the accumulated air on the head of
+his horn, smelt it to see if all was going right, jingled the bell again
+close to his ear, and grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles
+must be found.
+
+To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my men were
+sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old doctor rose,
+shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then,
+confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to
+strike him on the face, then smelt the head, then dashed at another,
+and so on, till he became satisfied that my men were not the thieves.
+He then walked into Grant's hut, inspected that, and finally went to the
+place where the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass
+with his arm up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side,
+then on the other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in
+two or three more steps he found it. A hyena had carried it into the
+grass and dropped it. Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well done the
+king for his honesty in sending it! So I gave the king the bottle and
+gauge, which delighted him amazingly; and the old doctor who begged for
+pombe, got a goat for his trouble. My men now, recollecting the powder
+robbery at Uganda, said king Mtesa would not send his horn when I asked
+for it, because he was the culprit himself.
+
+6th.--Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not
+allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace. Their only
+occupation in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each one
+consumes the produce daily of from ten to twenty cows, and hence they
+become so inordinately fat that they cannot walk. Should they wish to
+see a relative, or go outside the hut for any purpose, it requires eight
+men to lift any of them on a litter. The brothers, too, are not allowed
+to go out of his reach. This confinement of the palace family is
+considered a state necessity, as a preventive to civil wars, in the same
+way as the destruction of the Uganda princes, after a certain season, is
+thought necessary for the preservation of peace there.
+
+7th.--In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf, to
+inquire after my health, and also to make some important communications.
+First he was to request a supply of bullets, that the king might fire
+a salute when Bombay returned from Gani; next, to ask for stimulative
+medicine, now that he had consumed all I gave him, and gone through the
+preliminary course; further, to request I would spread a charm over all
+his subjects, so that their hearts might be inclined towards him, and
+they would come without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he
+wished me to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till
+death. I sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for the
+medicine, and said there was only one charm by which he could gain the
+influence he required over his subjects--this was, knowledge and
+the power of the pen. Should he desire some of my children (meaning
+missionaries) to come here and instruct his, the thing would be done;
+but not in one year, nor even ten, for it takes many years to educate
+children.
+
+As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing quite
+beyond my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess, had asked me
+to do the same thing. The way the English make lasting friendships is
+done either by the expressions of their hearts, or by the exchange
+of some trifles, as keepsakes; and now, as I had given Kamrasi some
+specimens of English manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything
+else he chose, which I could show to my friends, so as to keep him in
+recollection all my life.
+
+The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a
+robbery had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning, when
+Kamrasi went to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box), which he
+had forgotten to lock, he found all his beads had been stolen. After
+sniffing round among the various wives, he smelt the biggest one to be
+the culprit, and turned the beads out of her possession. Deputies came
+in the evening with a pot of pombe and small screw of butter, to tell me
+some Gani people had just arrived, bringing information that the vessel
+at Gani had left to go down the river; but when intelligence reached the
+vessel of the approach of my men they turned and came back again. Bombay
+was well feasted on the road by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight cows
+from one and two cows from another.
+
+8th and 9th.--We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with the
+medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present. It rained
+so much on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next day. After
+arriving there, and going through the usual salutations, Kamrasi asked
+us from what stock of people we came, explaining his meaning by saying,
+"As we, Rumanika, Mtesa, and the rest of us (enumerating the kings),
+are Wawitu (or princes), Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the
+east." This interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his
+question, and induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient names
+for Mombas, if you came from that place: I know all about your race for
+two thousand years or more. Omwita, you mean, was the last country you
+resided in before you came here, but originally you came from Abyssinia,
+the sultan of which, our great friend, is Sahela Selassie."
+
+He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock was
+half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered with
+straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do know
+everything." The subject then turned upon medicine, and after inspecting
+the chest, and inquiring into all its contents, it ended by his begging
+for the half of everything. The mosquito-curtains were again asked for,
+and refused until I should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should
+take two of his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so,
+but said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to
+come here and educate all his family. His cattle were much troubled with
+sickness, dying in great numbers--could I cure them? As he again began
+to persecute us with begging, wanting knives and forks, etc., I advised
+his using ivory as money, and purchasing what he wanted from Gani.
+This brought out the interesting fact, the truth of which we had never
+reached before, that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace
+of beads, and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories,
+thirteen women, and seven mbugu cloths. One of his men accompanied the
+visitors back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory and
+rejected the women.
+
+10th.--At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the Kafu
+palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied up in
+various coloured cloths, so that he might know what to select for
+different ailments. We repaired there as before, putting the medicines
+into the sextand-stand box, and found him lying at full length on the
+platform of his throne, with a glass-bead necklace of various colours,
+and a charm tied on his left arm. Nobody was allowed to be present at
+our interview. The medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten
+doses each, and their uses and effects explained. He begged for four
+bottles to put them in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying
+he required forty bottles; for if the powders were mixed, how could he
+separate them again? And to keep his mind from the begging tack, which
+he was getting alarmingly near, I said, "Now I have given you these
+things because you would insist on having them. I must also tell you
+they are dangerous in your hands, in consequence of your being ignorant
+of their properties. If you take my advice you won't meddle with them
+until the two children you wish educated have learnt the use of them in
+England; and if I have to take boys from this, I hope they will be of
+your family." He said, "You speak like a father to us, and we very much
+approve. Here is a pot of pombe; I did not give you one yesterday."
+
+11th.--To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we went
+out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks.
+
+12th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and to
+ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of Kamrasi's tribe,
+the distribution of countries, and the seat of the government. I sent
+the king a diagram, painted in various colours, with full explanations
+of everything, and asked permission to send two more of my men in search
+of Bombay, who had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if
+Bombay did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men
+after him on the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot of
+pombe as a token of his kind regard.
+
+13th.--The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to ask for
+medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin of his
+race. I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as disagreeable as
+possible, in order that Kamrasi might get tired of us, sent Frij to ask
+for fresh butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee, and fowls, every day, saying, I
+will pay their price when I reach Gani, for we were suffering from want
+of proper food. Kamrasi was surprised at this clamour for food, and
+inquired what we ate at home that we were so different from everybody
+else.
+
+We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of Budja. On
+coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's frontier officer, who
+put the charm into a pot of pombe. From the moment Budja drank it he was
+seized with sickness, and remained so until he reached the first station
+in Uganda, when he died. The facts of the bewitchment had been found out
+by means of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe
+was drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects would
+follow, and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring upon their
+household. We heard, too, that the deserters had returned to the place
+they deserted from, with thirty Waganda, and a present of some cows for
+me.
+
+14th.---Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly enclosed in
+rush pith.
+
+15th.--Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any sacrifice,
+I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well as the present of
+cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats to Gani at once; but the
+reply was simply, Why be in such a hurry?
+
+16th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which
+Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had slept.
+Very badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would have been back
+long ago if Kamrasi was not concealing him somewhere, and we did not
+know what he was doing with deserters and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted
+us to paint his mbugu cloths in different patterns and colours; but
+we sent him instead six packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for
+sauciness. He then wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red
+with taste; but we had none to give him. Next, he asked leave for my
+men to shoot cows, before his Kidi visitors, which they did to his
+satisfaction, instructing him at the same time to fire powder with his
+own rifle; when, triumphant with his success, he protested he would
+never use anything but guns again, and threw away his spear as useless.
+Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani, and ought to return in eight days.
+
+17th and 18th.--A large party of Chopi people arrived, by Kamrasi's
+orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply for guns to the
+white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they must have wished to fight
+their king. The Kidi visitors got broken heads for helping themselves
+from the Wanyoro's fields, and when they cried out against such
+treatment, were told they should rob the king, if they wished to rob at
+all.
+
+19th.--Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi guests,
+200, with presents of cows and women.
+
+20th.--Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the book of
+birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us until a new hut
+was built, because the old one was flooded by the Kafu, which had been
+rising several days. We must not, he said, talk about Bombay any more,
+because everybody said he was detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's
+party), and would return here with the new moon. I would not accept the
+lie, saying, How can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when
+they have received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer
+quickly? It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden Bombay,
+or ordered his officers to take him slowly, as he did us, stopping four
+days at each stage.
+
+Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of
+Zanzibar, sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the coast,
+against the incursions of the Masai. These Amu people have the same
+Wahuma features as Kamrasi, whom they also resemble both in general
+physical appearance, and in many of them having circular marks, as if
+made by cautery, on the forehead and temples. These marks I took not to
+be tatooing or decorative, but as a cure for disease--cautery being a
+favourite remedy with both races.
+
+The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a thousand
+spears against the Arabs' cannon. But this was not the only battle Said
+Said had to fight on those grounds; for some years previously he had to
+subdue the Waziwa, who live on very marshy land, into respect for his
+sovereignty, when the battle lasted years, in consequence of the bad
+nature of the ground, and the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground
+with spikes. The Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the
+bastards or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending
+from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili; but
+there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the Suahili in
+the same vague sense as they do of going to the Mashenzi, or amongst the
+savages. The common story amongst the Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard
+to the government of that island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines
+of Zanzibar, did not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and
+therefore allied themselves to the Arabs of Muscat--even compromising
+their natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs,
+by their superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity, peace
+and justice. The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the mediator on
+their side, and without his sanction no radial changes compromising the
+welfare of the land could take place; the system of arbitration being,
+that the governing Arab on the one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim
+on the other, should hold conference with a screen placed between them,
+to obviate all attempts at favour, corruption, or bribery.
+
+The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda and
+cows for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of my men was
+with 102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters were left behind in
+Uganda with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this, ordered all to go back again
+until the whole of my men should arrive.
+
+21st.--I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died, now keeps
+two small pots in her house, as effigies of the children, into which
+she milks herself every evening, and will continue to do so five months,
+fulfilling the time appointed by nature for suckling children, lest the
+spirits of the dead should persecute her. The twins were not buried, as
+ordinary people are buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware
+pot, such as the Wanyoro use for holding pombe. They were taken to the
+jungle and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards.
+Manua, one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the sister
+provinces to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed and thrown into
+water the moment they are born, lest droughts and famines or floods
+should oppress the land. Should any one attempt to conceal twins,
+the whole family would be murdered by the chief; but, though a great
+traveller, this is the only instance of such brutality Manua had ever
+witnessed in any country.
+
+In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are thrown
+into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their numbers
+increase the size of the family, their birth is hailed with delight.
+Still there is a source of fear there in connection with twins, as I
+have seen myself; for when one dies, the mother ties a little gourd to
+her neck as a proxy, and puts into it a trifle of everything which she
+gives the living child, lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should
+torment her. Further, on the death of the child, she smears herself
+with butter and ashes, and runs frantically about, tearing her hair and
+bewailing piteously; whilst the men of the place use towards her the
+foulest language, apparently as if in abuse of her person, but in
+reality to frighten away the demons who have robbed her nest.
+
+22d.--I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with the
+Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two head
+representatives. I also wanted some men to seek for and to fetch Bombay,
+as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg behind one of the visible
+hills in Kidi. The reply was, 102 Waganda, with one of my men only, had
+been stationed at the village my men deserted from since the date (13th)
+we heard of them last. They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda
+bore a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until they
+either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder, in default
+of which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the logs they carried.
+Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy, would not admit them here,
+but wished them to return with a message, to the effect that Mtesa had
+no right to hold me as his guest now I had once gone into another's
+hands. We were all three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and
+for this reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished
+to speak to the Waganda, he would call their officer. There was no fear,
+he said, about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who were escorting
+him were spinning out the time, stopping at every place, and feasting
+every day. To-morrow, he added, some more Gani people would arrive here,
+when we should know more about it. I still advised Kamrasi to give the
+road to Mtesa provided he gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and
+cattle; but if my counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment
+that it was so.
+
+23d and 24th.--I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's coming,
+and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's chief officer
+and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send us specimens of all
+the various tribes that visit him, in order that me might draw them.
+He sent four loads of dried fish, with a request for my book of birds
+again, as it contains a portrait of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing us
+at the newly-constructed Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would
+be attended to. In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been
+seen on his way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away
+frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors, who
+had been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus of an army
+forming to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. Mtesa was undergoing
+the coronation formalities, and for this reason had sent the deserters
+to Kari's hill, giving them cows and a garden to live on, as no visitors
+can remain near the court while the solemnities of the coronation were
+going on. The thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or
+three, of which one will be sent into this country--as was the case with
+one of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro--and the
+others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows until the king
+dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living in Uganda, one at
+N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be pensioned off. After the
+coronation is concluded, it is expected Mtesa will go into Kittari, on
+the west of Uganda, to fight first, and then, turning east, will fight
+with the Wasoga; but we think if he fights anywhere, it will be with
+Kamrasi.
+
+25th and 26th.--I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after Bombay, and
+got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? He is always for
+doing things quickly. Tell my 'brother' to keep his mind at rest; Bombay
+is now on the boundary of Gani coming here, and will in due course
+arrive." Both Rumanika's men and those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked
+Kamrasi's leave to return to their homes, but were refused, because the
+road was unsafe. "Had they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling
+Mtesa that K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to
+Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for being
+chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had appointed
+another in his stead, giving him strict orders to make prisoners of
+all foreigners who might pass that way; and, further, when some twenty
+Wanyoro were going to Karague, they were hunted down by Mtesa's orders,
+and three of their number killed; for he was determined to cut off all
+intercourse between this country and Karague. They must therefore wait
+till the road is safe."
+
+Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off here
+as anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said, "We are
+starving; we have been here too long already doing nothing, and must go,
+let what will happen to us." Kamrasi said, "What will be the use of your
+going empty-handed? I cannot send cows and slaves to Rumanika when the
+road is so unsafe; you must wait a bit." But they still urged as
+before, and so forced the king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on
+the condition that two of their head men should remain behind until some
+more of Rumanika's men came to fetch them away--in fact, as we had been
+accredited to him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that king's
+people as a security until we were out of his hands.
+
+27th.--I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to visit the
+Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request Kamrasi would send
+men to fetch my property from Karague. He sent four loads of small fish
+and one pot of pombe, to say he would see me on the morrow, when every
+arrangement would be made. Late at night orders came announcing that I
+might write my despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague.
+
+28th.--I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who detained
+him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-morrow. This being the
+fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had disappointed me, after
+promising an interview, that we might have a proper understanding
+about everything, and when no begging on his party was to interrupt our
+conversation, I sent him a threatening message, to see what effect that
+would have. The purport of it was, that I was afraid to send men to
+Karague, now I had seen his disposition to make prisoners of all who
+visit him. Here had I been kept six weeks waiting for Bombay's return
+from Gani, where I only permitted him to go because I was told the
+journey to and fro would only occupy from eight to ten days at most.
+Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka, though daily crying to
+get away, were still imprisoned here, without any hope before them. If
+I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years on the road. If I went to the
+lake Luta Nzige, God only knows when he would let me come back; and now,
+for once and for all, I wished to sacrifice my property, and leave the
+countries of black kings; for what Kamrasi had done, Mtesa had done
+likewise, detaining the two men I detached on a friendly mission, which
+made me fear to send any more and inquire after my guns, lest he should
+seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among such people.
+
+Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no occasion
+for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly. I had promised to wait
+patiently for his return, and as soon as he did return, I would be sent
+off without one day's delay, for I was not his slave, that he should use
+violence upon me. Rumanika's men, too, would be allowed to go, only that
+the road was unsafe, and he feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm
+befell them.
+
+29th.--To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this side the
+Kafu--taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew about the origin
+and present condition of the Wahuma branch of the Ethiopians, beginning
+with Adam, to show how it was the king had heard by tradition that at
+one time the people of his race were half white and half black. Then,
+proceeding with the Flood, I pointed out that the Europeans remained
+white, retaining Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem;
+and the African's black, after Ham. And, finally, to show the greatness
+of the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which it is
+written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand thousand,
+met the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of Zephathah, near
+Mareshah; adding to it that again, at a much later date, we find the
+Ethiopians battling with the Arabs in the Somali country, and with the
+Arabs and Portuguese at Omwita (Mombas)--in all of which places they
+have taken possession of certain tracts of land, and left their sons to
+people it.
+
+To explain the way in which the type or physical features of people
+undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was instanced as having
+lost nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood, but the kings of Uganda
+having been produced, probably for several generations running, of
+Waganda mothers. This amused Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire
+how his purity of blood was maintained--"Was the king of Unyoro chosen,
+as in Uganda, haphazard by the chief men--or did the eldest son sit by
+succession on the throne?" The reply was, "The brothers fought for it,
+and the best man gained the crown."
+
+Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement that
+every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and, concluding in
+his mind that each page or leaf represented one year of time since the
+beginning of creation, continued his labour till one quarter of the way
+through the book, and then only shut it up on being told, if he desired
+to ascertain the number more closely, he had better count the words.
+
+I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his request
+for a few days; and then began a badgering verbal conflict: he would not
+return them until I drew others like them; he would not allow me to go
+to the Little Luta Nzige, west of this, until Bombay returned, when he
+would send me with an army of spears to lead the way, and my men with
+their guns behind to protect the rear. This was for the purpose of
+making us his tools in his conflict with his brothers. I complained that
+he had, without consulting me, ordered away the men who had been sent,
+either to fetch me back to Uganda, or else get powder from me, although
+they had orders to carry out their king's desire, under the threat of
+being burnt with the fire logs they carried; and all this Kamrasi had
+professed to do merely out of respect for my dignity, as I was no slave,
+that Mtesa should order me about. I argued, founding on each particular
+in succession, that his conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and
+anything but friendly. He then produced an officer, who was to escort
+my man Msalima to Karague, giving him orders to collect the sixty men
+required on the way; five of Rumanika's men could go with him, but five
+must stop, until other Karague men came to say the road was safe, when
+he would send by them the present he had prepared for Rumanika.
+
+Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the
+medicine-chest and the saw? We wish to see everything you have
+got, though we do not wish to rob you." When these things came for
+inspection, he coveted the saw, and discovered there were more varieties
+of medicine in the chest than had been given him. This he was told was
+not the case, because the papers given him contained mixed medicines--a
+little being taken from every bottle. "But there are no pills; why won't
+you give us pills? We have men, women, and children who require pills as
+well as you do." We were much annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he
+said, "Well, if you won't give my anything, I will go," we at once rose,
+hat in hand; when, regretting the hastiness of his speech, he begged
+us to be seated again, and renewed his demands. We told him the road
+to Gani was the only condition on which we would part with any more
+medicine; we had asked leave to go a hundred times, and that was all we
+now desired. At last he rose and walked off in a huff; but, repenting
+before he reached home, he sent us a pot of pombe, when, in return, I
+finished the farce by sending him a box of pills.
+
+30th.--I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language
+to convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here, his
+account of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima to convey
+to the coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder as a sort of
+agency fee. Msalima also took a map of all the countries we had passed,
+with lunar observations, and a letter to Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and
+Uledi would be able to draw their pay on arrival.
+
+31st.--I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an
+acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from Karague,
+he would be entitled to half of everything, reserving the other half for
+any person I might in future send to take them from him. He accepted the
+letter, and put it into his mzungu--the tin box I had given him. He said
+he would take every care of the kit from the time it arrived, and would
+not touch his share of it till my deputy arrived. An inhabitant of Chopi
+reported that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left
+home, and was rewarded with the present of a cow.
+
+1st.--I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro man, who
+requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was likely to die, for
+it is considered very good food in Unyoro.
+
+Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in cotton
+jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's outpost.
+Petherick himself was not there. The journey to and fro was performed in
+fourteen days' actual travelling, the rest of the time being frittered
+away by the guides. The jemadar of the guard said he commanded two
+hundred Turks, and had orders to wait for me, without any limit as to
+time, until I should arrive, when Petherick's name would be pointed out
+to me cut on a tree; but as no one in camp could read my letter, they
+were doubtful whether we were the party they were looking out for.
+
+They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen
+elephants. Petherick had gone down the river eight days' journey, but
+was expected to return shortly. Kamrasi would not see Bombay immediately
+on his return, but sent him some pombe, and desired an interview the
+following day.
+
+2d.--I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting of one
+tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red cotton cloth, one
+digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one box of beads, containing
+six varieties of the best sort, and a request to leave his country. Much
+pleased with the things, Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before
+all his court, pointed out to them what clever people the white people
+are, making iron pots instead of earthen ones. Covetous and never
+satisfied, however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was sure I
+must have more beads than those I sent him; and, instead of granting the
+leave asked for, said he would think about it, and send the Kamraviona
+in the evening with his answer. This, when it came, was anything but
+satisfactory; for we were required to stop here until the king should
+have prepared the people on the road for our coming, so that they might
+not be surprised, or try to molest us on the way. Kamrasi, however,
+returned the books of birds and animals, requesting a picture of the
+king of Uganda to be drawn for him, and gave us one pot of pombe.
+
+3d.--I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi for
+breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a day's delay;
+and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep from thinking of
+my home. His only reply to this was, Bana is always in a preposterous
+hurry. He answered, that for our gratification he had directed a dwarf
+called Kimenya to be sent to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after.
+Kimenya, a little old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a
+walking-stick higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very
+composedly. He then rose and danced, singing without invitation, and
+following it up with queer antics. Lastly, he performed the tambura, or
+charging-march, in imitation of Wakugnu, repeating the same words
+they use, and ending by a demand for simbi, or cowrie-shells, modestly
+saying, "I am a beggar, and want simbi; if you have not 500 to spare,
+you must at any rate give me 400."
+
+He then narrated his fortune in life. Born in Chopi, he was sent for by
+Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then another, who ran
+away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like himself, whom he rejected,
+because he thought the propagation of his pigmy breed would not be
+advantageous to society. Bombay then marched him back to the palace,
+with 500 simbi strung in necklaces round his neck. When these two had
+gone, the Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a
+pot of pombe, which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears
+were given as it was observed I had accepted some from the king of
+Uganda; a shield was still in reserve for me, and spears would be sent
+for Grant. Then with regard to my going, Kamrasi must beg us to have
+patience until he had sent messengers into Kidi, requesting the natives
+there not to molest me on the way, for they had threatened they would
+do so, and if they persisted, he would send us with a force by another
+route via Ugungu--another attempt to draw us off to fight against his
+brothers.
+
+I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had given
+the king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my only wire,
+my only mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything, because he had
+assured me I should have to pay no more chiefs, and he would give me the
+road at once. If he did not intend now to fulfil his promise, I begged
+he would take back his spears, for I would only accept them as a
+farewell present. The Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual
+pertinacious duplicity of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject
+drop, and consider the present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him
+the Uganga" (meaning the watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready yet." This
+second prevarication completely set my dander up. If I did not believe
+in his dangers of the way before, it quite settled my opinion of the
+worth of his words now. I therefore tendered him what might be called
+the ultimatum to this effect. There was no sincerity in such haggling;
+I would not submit to being told lies by kings or anybody else. He must
+take back the spears, or give us the road to-morrow; and unless the
+Kamraviona would tell him this and bring me an answer at once, the
+spears should not remain in my house during the night. Evidently in
+alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and Frij in company to bear him
+witness, returned to the palace, telling Kamrasi that he saw we were
+in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise that Kamrasi would have
+a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the next day, when we
+should have a large escort to Petherick's boats, and the men would be
+able to bring back anything that he wanted; but he could not let us go
+without a parting interview, such as we had at Uganda with Mtesa.
+
+The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in which
+it was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they were so
+frightened themselves that they would have skulked away to their homes
+and not come near me if they could not have arranged matters to my
+satisfaction. Kamrasi would not believe I had threatened to turn out his
+spears until Frij testified to their statements; and he then said, "Let
+Bana keep the spears and drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be
+a prisoner against his will." Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met
+one of N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some
+important business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried out my
+instructions. The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's conduct by
+saying he had given the deserters seventy cows and four women, as well
+as orders to join us quickly; but they had been delayed on the road,
+because wherever they went they plundered, and no one liked their
+company. Had we returned to Uganda, Mtesa would have given us the road
+through Masai, which, in my opinion, is nearer for us than this one.
+
+This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to see
+him; but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for fear, it
+was said, lest the Waganda should know where we were hidden, and enable
+Mtesa to send an army to come and snatch us away. As the officer said
+he would deliver any message I might wish to send to Uganda, I folded a
+visiting-card as a letter to the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished
+the two men whom I sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague;
+but desired that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty,
+should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile until some
+other Englishman should come to release them; that their arms should
+be taken from them and kept in the palace. I said further, that should
+Mtesa act up to my desires, I would then know he was my friend,
+and other white men would not fear to enter Uganda; but if he acted
+otherwise, they would fear lest he should imprison them, or seize their
+property of their men. If these deserters escaped punishment, no white
+men would ever dare trust their lives with such men again. The officer
+said he should be afraid to deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but
+he certainly would tell the queen every word of it, which would be even
+more efficacious.
+
+4th.--I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon, for
+the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness; as if
+we did not reach the vessels in time for seasonable departure down the
+Nile, we should have to wait another year for their return from Khartum.
+"What!" said Kamrasi, "does Bana forget my promised appointment that
+I would either see him to-day or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and
+therefore to-morrow we will certainly meet and bid good-bye." The Gani
+men, who came with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country,
+although, as a rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above once in
+two years, from fear of the hunting natives, who make game of everybody
+and everything they see; in other words, they seize strangers, plunder
+them, and sell them as slaves. To cross that tract, the dry season
+is the best, when all the grass is burnt down, or from the middle of
+December to the end of March. I gave them a cow, and they at once killed
+it, and, sitting down, commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice.
+
+5th.--The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready for the
+great interview, where we could both speak what we had at heart, for
+as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say; and there was
+a supplement to the message, of the usual kind, that he would like a
+present of a pencil. The pencil was sent in the first place, because we
+did not like talking about trifles when we visited great kings.
+
+The interview followed. It was opened on our side by our saying we had
+enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished to go to our
+homes; should he have any message to send to the great Queen of England,
+we should be happy to convey it. A long yarn then emanated from the
+throne. He defended his over-cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro.
+It was caused at first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him;
+he subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very
+pleased with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us down to
+stopping here against our wish, but, for safety's sake, he would like
+us to stop a little longer, until he could send messengers ahead,
+requesting the wild men in Kidi not to molest us. That state trick
+failing to frighten and stop us, he tried another, by saying, when we
+departed, he hoped we would leave two men with guns behind, to occupy
+our present camp, and so delude the people into the belief that merely a
+party of their followers, and not the white men themselves, had left his
+house, for the purpose of spreading terror in the minds of the people we
+might meet, who, not knowing the number of men behind, would naturally
+conclude there was a large reserve force ready to release us in case of
+necessity.
+
+This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's reflection.
+In a country where men were property, the fate of one or two left behind
+was obvious; and had we doubted that his object was to get possession of
+them, his next words would have sufficiently revealed it. He said,
+"As you gave men to Mtesa, why would you refuse them to me?" but was
+checkmated on being told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in
+this country ever reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking
+their allegiance or oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to
+everything you have to say; and the day after to-morrow, when I shall
+have had time to collect men to go with you, and selected the two
+princes you have promised to educate, we will meet again and say
+good-bye; but you must give me a gun and some more medicine, as well as
+the powder and ball you promised after reaching the vessels." This was
+all acquiesced in, and we wished to take his portrait, but he would not
+have it done on any consideration. The Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed
+us home, and told Bombay the king did not wish us to leave till next
+moon, and then he would like us to fight his brothers on the way. This
+message, sent in such an underhand manner after the meeting, Bombay
+failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to do so.
+
+6th.--The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a
+request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for yesterday
+had been refused until we reached the vessels. "Confound Kamrasi!" was
+the reply; "does he think we came here to trick kings that he doubts
+our words? We came to open the road; and, as sure as we wish it, we will
+send him everything that has been promised. Why should he doubt our
+word more than anybody else? We are not accustomed to be treated in this
+manner, and must beg he won't insult us any more. Then about fighting
+his brothers, we have already given answer that we never fight with
+black men; and should the king persist in it, we will never take another
+thing from his hands. The boys shall not go to England, neither will
+any other white men come this way." The Kamraviona made the following
+answer:--"But there are two more things the king wishes to know about:
+he has asked the question before, but forgotten the answers. Is there
+any medicine for women or children which will prevent the offspring from
+dying shortly after birth?--for it is a common infirmity in this country
+with some women, that all their children die before they are able to
+walk, whilst others never lose a child. The other matter of inquiry was,
+What medicine will attach all subjects to their king?--for Kamrasi
+wants some of that most particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good
+government, attended with wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we
+know of; and this his boys can best learn in England, and instruct him
+in when they return."
+
+7th.--We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye. After
+all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the
+state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat
+with an air of the most solemn dignity, upon his throne of skins,
+regarding us like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to
+send to him. On being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of
+our promises, he came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what
+answer have you about the business on the island?"--meaning the request
+to fight his brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as
+it was against the principle of our country. Grant's rings were then
+espied, and begged for, but without success. We told him it was highly
+improper to beg for everything he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one
+would ever dare to come near him again.
+
+Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed
+to go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given, until the question
+was put again, with a request that the reason might be told us for his
+not wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro,
+as the Wanyamuezi instead of trading merely with Karague and Zanzibar,
+would bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus
+converting Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said,
+"We don't want any more ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already
+as numerous as grass." Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the
+things we were to send back from Gani; our departure was fixed for the
+9th; and the king walked away as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as
+jolly as birds released from a cage.
+
+Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of
+the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the violent manner in which,
+at certain season, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such
+velocity that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a
+pot of pombe was brought, when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us
+with frantic charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after
+settling the supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under foot,
+spearing him repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of
+the spear in the grass, and finally polishing it on this tufty head,
+when, with a grunt of satisfaction, he shouldered arms and walked away a
+hero.
+
+8th.--As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the
+journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in answer
+to which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable
+without delay. Twenty-four men were appointed us to escort us and bring
+back our presents from Gani, which were to be--six carbines, with a
+magazine of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush,
+lucifers, a dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never
+been seen in Unyoro.
+
+Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for
+education in England; but as they were both of the common negro breed,
+with nothing attractive about them, and such as no one could love but
+their mothers, we rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care
+to play with them, and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play
+with our children, and unless I got some princes of that interesting
+breed, no one would ever undertake to teach children brought from this
+country. The king was very much disappointed at this announcement; said
+they were his adopted children, and the only ones he could part with,
+for his own boys were mere balls of fat, and too small to leave home.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XIX. The March to Madi
+
+Sail down the Kafu--The Navigable Nile--Fishing and Sporting
+Population--The Scenery on the River--An Inhospitable Governor--Karuma
+Falls--Native Superstitions--Thieveries--Hospitable Reception at Koki by
+Chongi.
+
+After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu two
+miles in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us; for
+the exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged
+with the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side
+of the river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious
+spectators amongst whom the most conspicuous was the king's favourite
+nurse. Dr K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling
+the king, if he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen,
+all would hongo, or pay customs-duty to him; but the close,
+narrow-minded king could not be persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi
+at the last moment wished to give me some women and ivory; and when told
+we never accepted anything of that sort, wished to give them to my head
+servants; but this being contrary to standing orders also, he said he
+would smuggle them down to the boats for Bombay in such a manner that I
+should not find out.
+
+We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to see
+more of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as
+far as the river was navigable, sending our cattle by land. To this
+concession was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and
+liberty was given us to seize any pombe which might be found coming
+on the river in boats, for the supplies to the palace all come in this
+manner. We then took boat again, an immense canoe, and, after going a
+short distance, emerged from the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at
+first appeared a long lake, averaging from two hundred at first to one
+thousand yards broad before the day's work was out; but this was the
+Nile again, navigable in this way from Urondogani.
+
+Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low
+and swampy, whilst the right one--in which the Kidi people and Wanyoro
+occasionally hunt--rose from the water in a gently sloping bank, covered
+with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons. Floating
+islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in motion,
+working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that the
+Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our
+men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board,
+supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were,
+which the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they
+were allowed to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting
+baskets and taking fish from the snares which fisherman, who live in
+small huts amongst the rushes, had laid for themselves.
+
+After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of
+carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized
+all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to
+eat. The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not
+so interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the
+whole way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where
+some savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats.
+
+With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed
+to get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after
+an hour and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men
+seized two pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's
+messenger, who said this was one of the places appointed by order to
+pick up recruits for the force which was to take us to Gani. We found,
+however, nothing but loss and disappointment--one calf stolen, and five
+goats nearly so. Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with
+the goats was taken by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully
+tight behind his back, and left, with his face painted white, till
+midnight, when his comrades stole into Bombay's hut and released him.
+After all these annoyances, the chief officer of the place offered us a
+present of a goat, but was sent to the right-about in scorn. How could
+he be countenanced as a friend when the men under him steal from us?
+
+The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles
+behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my
+men into sailors, and going as we liked. The river still continued
+beautiful; but after paddling three hours we found it bend considerably,
+and narrow to two hundred yards, the average depth being from two
+to three fathoms. At the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be
+far behind, we pulled in, and walked up a well-cultivated hill to
+Yaragonjo's, the governor of these parts. The guide, however, on first
+sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of huts, regarding it apparently with
+the awe and deference due to a palace, shrank from advancing, and
+merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in the next minute we found
+ourselves confronted with the heads of the establishment. The father of
+the house, surprised at our unexpected manner of entrance--imagining,
+probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in consequence of our hats, sent
+to fight "the brothers"--without saying a word, quietly beckoned us
+to follow him out of the gate by the same way as we came. Preferring,
+however, to have a little talk where we were, we remained.
+
+The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with
+large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the
+refractory brothers, now came in, did the honours, and, on hearing
+of the importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little
+distance off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no
+accommodation for such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were
+now on, with plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses
+covering the country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The
+people seemed of a decidedly sporting order, for they kept
+hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to strong ropes with trimmers of pith
+wood, in their huts; and, outside, trophies of their toil in the shape
+of a pile of heads, consisting of those of buffalo and hippopotami.
+The women, anything but pretty, wore their mbugu cut into two flounces,
+fastened with a drawing-string round the waist; and, in place of
+stockings, they bound strings of small iron beads, kept bright and
+shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the bottom of the calf.
+
+Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle of cartridges,
+stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been
+done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh.
+The guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed
+some of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only
+motive for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the
+cartridges for a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a present of a
+goat and plantains. He was sorry he sent us back yesterday from his
+house; and invited us to change ground to another village close by,
+where he would make arrangements for our receiving other boats, as the
+ones we had in possession must go back. Presuming this to be a very fair
+proposition, and thinking we would only have to walk across an elbow of
+land where the river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of
+beads, and did as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had
+been sold. We had lost our former boats, and no others were near us;
+therefore, feeling angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his palace,
+taking the presented goat with me, as I knew that would touch the savage
+in the most tender part; then flaring up with the officer for treating
+the king's orders with contempt, as well as his guests, by sending
+us into the jungles like a pack of thieves, whose riddance from his
+presence was obviously his only intent, I gave him his goat again, and
+said I would have nothing more to say to him, for I should look to the
+king for redress.
+
+This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately produced
+another and finer goat, which he begged me to accept, promising to
+convey all my traps to the next governor's, where there would be no
+doubt about our getting boats. He did not intend to deceive us, but
+committed an error in not informing us he had no boats of his own; and,
+to show his earnestness, accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the
+missing calf taken at Koki, and a large deputation of natives awaiting
+our arrival. They told me that the Koki governor had taken such fright
+in consequence of my anger when I refused his proffered goat, that he
+had traced the calf back to Kitwara, and now wished to take Kidgwiga a
+prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized five cows of his, and a woman
+from another governor. As yet I had not heard of this piece of rough
+justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he had been compelled to do
+as he had done, because those officers, on finding we had gone ahead in
+boats would not produce the complement of men required of them by the
+king's orders for escorting us to Gani; but now they sent the men, the
+woman and cows could not be returned, as they had been sent overland by
+the ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile.
+
+Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with
+Kamrasi, as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended Kidgwiga
+for carrying out his orders so well, and told the officers they had
+merited their punishment--as how could the affairs of government be
+carried on, when subordinate officers refused immediate compliance? The
+submkungu of Northern Gueni, Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains,
+and everything was settled for the day.
+
+With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through
+cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor Kaeru,
+where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted, though we were
+still two miles from the post. We inquired for the boats at once, but
+were told they were some distance off, and we must wait here for the
+night. Four pots of pombe were sent us, and Kaeru thought we would be
+satisfied and conform. We suspected, however, that there was some trick
+at the bottom of all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper
+emphasis, "Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them
+on the following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from any
+one." This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was found
+like magic, and traps, pombe, and all together, were forwarded to
+the journey's end--a snug batch of huts imbedded in large plantain
+cultivation surrounded by jungle, and obviously near the river,
+as numerous huge harpoons, intended for striking hippopotami, were
+suspended from the roof. Kaeru here presented us with a goat, and
+promised the boats in the morning.
+
+After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for
+Kidgwiga and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing ahead,
+indifferent as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he had to
+prepare for the future also, as he could never recross the Kidi
+wilderness by himself; he must have a sufficient number of men to form
+his escort, and these were now grinding corn for the journey. Numerous
+visitors called on us here, and consequently our picture-books were in
+great request. We gave Kaeru some beads.
+
+After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of Chopi,
+subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the Kikunguru cone
+in view. On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the officer of the district, a
+very smart fellow, arrived with a large escort of spearmen, presented
+pombe, ordered fowls to be seized for us, and promised one boat in
+the morning, for he had no more disposable, and even that one he felt
+anxious about lest the men on ahead should seize it.
+
+I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his only
+wretched little canoe--he, with Grant and the traps, going overland. I
+caught a fever, and so spent the night.
+
+Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation of
+the king. He called in great state, presented a cow and pombe, was much
+pleased with the picture-books, and wished to feast his eyes on all
+the wonders in the hut. He was very communicative, also, as far as his
+limited knowledge permitted. He said the people are only a sub-tribe of
+the Madi; and the reason why the right bank of the river is preferred
+to the left for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is
+always on the look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill them.
+Magamba also, on being questioned, told us about Ururi, a province
+of Unyoro, under the jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted governor,
+who covers his children with bead ornaments, and throws them into the
+N'yanza, to prove their identity as his own true offspring; for should
+they sink, it stands to reason some other person must be their father;
+but should they float, then he recovers them. One of Kamrasi's cousins,
+Kaoroti, with his chief officer, called on us, presenting five fowls as
+an honorarium. He had little to say, but begged for medicine, and when
+given some in a liquid state, said his sub would like some also; then
+Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have some; and as pills were
+given for her, the two men must have dry medicine too, to take home with
+them. Severe drain as this was on the medicine-chest, Magamba and his
+wife must have both wet and dry; and even others put in a claim, but
+were told they were too healthy to require physicking. Many Kidi men,
+dressed as in the woodcut, crossed the river to visit Kamrasi; they
+could not, however, pass us without satisfying their curiosity with
+a look. Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign to put
+any covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi. Their
+"sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the
+negro hair will not grow long enough. A message came from Ukero, the
+governor-general of Chopi, to request we would not go down the river in
+boats to-morrow, lest the Chopi ferrymen at the falls should take fright
+at our strange appearance, paddle precipitately across the river, hide
+their boats, and be seen no more.
+
+We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made this place
+in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's officers, who are as
+thick as thieves about here, had made up their minds to keep us each one
+day at his abode, and show us "hospitality." Such was the case, for
+they all tried their powers of persuasion, which failing, they took the
+alternative of making my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots
+of pombe. The ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and
+intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry branches
+made the surface very irregular. The sand-paper tree, whose leaves
+resemble a cat's tongue in roughness, and which is used in Uganda for
+polishing their clubs and spear-handles, was conspicuous; but at the
+end of the journey only was there anything of much interest to be
+seen. There suddenly, in a deep ravine one hundred yards below us, the
+formerly placid river, up which vessels of moderate size might steam two
+or three abreast, was now changed into a turbulent torrent. Beyond lay
+the land of Kidi, a forest of mimosa trees, rising gently away from the
+water in soft clouds of green. This, the governor of the place, Kija,
+described as a sporting-field, where elephants, hippopotami, and buffalo
+are hunted by the occupants of both sides of the river. The elephant is
+killed with a new kind of spear, with a double-edged blade a yard long,
+and a handle which, weighted in any way most easy, is pear-shaped.
+
+With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees
+and wait for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under. The
+hippopotami, however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda, the common
+tripping-trap with spike-drop, which is placed in the runs of this
+animal, described by every South African traveller, and generally known
+as far as the Hametic language is spread. The Karuma Falls, if such they
+may be called, are a mere sluice or rush of water between high syenitic
+stones, falling in a long slope down a ten-feet drop. There are others
+of minor importance, and one within ear-sound, down the river, said to
+be very grand.
+
+The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief that
+Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit, placed the
+stones that break the waters in the river, and, for so doing, was
+applauded by his master, who, to reward his services by an appropriate
+distinction, allowed the stones to be called Karuma. Near this is a tree
+which contains a spirit whose attributes for gratifying the powers and
+pleasures of either men or women who summon its influence in the
+form appropriate to each, appear to be almost identical with that of
+Mahadeo's Ligna in India.
+
+20th.--We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of food for
+the passage of the Kidi wilderness. Presents of fish, caught in baskets,
+were sent us by Kija. They were not bad eating, though all ground
+animals of the lowest order. At the Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga
+informs us, the king had the heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken
+in war against Rionga, cut off and thrown into the river.
+
+21st and 22d.--The governor, who would not let us go until we saw him,
+called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a harpist, and
+bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and three pots of pombe.
+He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a box, as at home he has a
+throne only a little inferior to Kamrasi's. He was very generous to
+Bombay on his former journey to Gani; and then said he thought the
+white men were all flocking this way to retake their lost country; for
+tradition recorded that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white,
+with half the hair straight and the other half curly; and how was this
+to be accounted for, unless the country formerly belonged to white men
+with straight hair, but was subsequently taken by black men? We relieved
+his apprehensions by telling him his ancestors were formerly all white,
+with straight hair, and lived in a country beyond the salt sea, till
+they crossed that sea, took possession of Abyssinia, and are now
+generally known by the name of Hubshies and Gallas; but neither of these
+names was known to him.
+
+On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a people
+who subsist entirely on meat and milk. The sportsmen of this country,
+like the Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of extraordinary size by the
+side of their huts, and pile the jaw-bones and horns of their spoils
+before, as a means of bringing good-luck. This same flower, held in
+the hand when a man is searching for anything that he has lost, will
+certainly bring him to the missing treasure. In the evening, Kidgwiga,
+at the head of his brave army, made one of their theatrical charges on
+"Bana" with spear and shield, swearing they would never desert him on
+the march, but would die to a man if it were necessary; and if they
+deserted him, then might they be deprived of their heads, or of other
+personal possessions not much less valuable.
+
+Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men was
+descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side, making their
+way for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally leads them into
+battle against Ukero. The last time they fought, two men only were
+killed on Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on Rionga's. There was
+little done besides crossing, for the last cow was brought across as
+sunset--the ferrying-toll for the whole being one cow, besides a present
+of beads to the head officer. Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one
+on either side the river, flaying them with one long cut each down their
+breasts and bellies. These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion,
+laid on their backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the
+travellers, that their journey might be prosperous; and the spot
+selected for the ordeal was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or
+spirit--a sort of wizard or ecclesiastical patriarch, whose functions
+were devoted to the falls.
+
+After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the forty
+porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the vessels
+wherever they might be. Only twenty-five men arrived, notwithstanding
+the wife and one slave belonging to a local officer, who would not
+supply the men required of him, were seized and confiscated by Ukero, of
+Wire. We now mustered twenty Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and
+thirty-one of Kidgwiga's "children"--making a total, with ourselves, of
+seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from Kamrasi.
+Its import was, that we must defer the march, as it was reported the
+refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of molesting us on the way,
+and therefore the king conceived it prudent to clear the road by first
+fighting him. Without heeding this cunning advice, we made a short march
+across swamps, and through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved
+anything but pleasant--wet and labouring hard all the way.
+
+It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the
+grasses. We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing the
+water at a fork near the end. The same jungle prevails on all sides,
+excluding all view; and the only signs of man's existence in these wilds
+lay in the meagre path, which is often lost, and an occasional hut or
+two, the temporary residence of the sporting Kidi people.
+
+After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and crossing
+swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a striking view. The
+jungles had thinned; we found ourselves unexpectedly standing on the
+edge of a plateau, on the west of which, for distance interminable, lay
+apparently a low flat country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a
+few trees or shrubs only thinly scattered over the surface; while,
+from fifteen to twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood
+conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi, not far
+from the refractory brothers. But this view was only for the moment;
+again we dived into the grasses and forced our way along. Presently
+elephants were seen, also buffalo; and the guide, to make the journey
+propitious, plucked a twig, denuded it of its leaves and branches, waved
+it like a wand up the line of march, muttered some unintelligible words
+to himself, broke it in twain, and threw the separated bits on either
+side of the path.
+
+Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and pointed
+out to us all the glories of the country round. In our rear we could
+see back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the west were the same
+low plains of grass; east and by south, the jungles of Kidi; and to the
+northward, over downs of grass, the tops of some hills, which marked the
+neighbouring village of Koki, which we were making for. Its appearance
+in the distance warned us that we were closing on the habitations of
+men, and we were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there. Then plunging
+through grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps, we
+arrived at a stream which drains all these lands to westward, and rested
+a while that the men might bathe, and also that they might set fire
+to the grass as a telegraph to the settlement of Koko, to apprise the
+people of our advance, and be ready with their pombe ere our arrival.
+Shortly after, towards the close of the day's work, as a solitary
+buffalo was seen grazing by a brook, I put a bullet through him, and
+allowed the savages the pleasure of despatching him in their own wild
+fashion with spears.
+
+It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay. No sooner was it observed
+that the huge beast could not retire, than, with springing bounds, the
+men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on an enemy, went top speed at
+him, over rise and fall alike, till, as they neared the maddened bull,
+he instinctively advanced to meet his assailants with the best charge
+his exhausted body could muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he
+knew his disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,--the
+worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank above him
+soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained their victory. Now,
+what was to be done with this huge carcass? No one could be induced to
+leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe on reaching camp; but no, the
+buffalo was bigger than a cow, and must be quartered on the spot; so,
+to gain our object, we went ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus
+saving a cow in rations, for we required to slaughter one every day.
+
+By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the same
+downs of tall grass with occasional swamps. We saw a herd of hartebeest,
+and reached at night a place within easy run of Koki in Gani.
+
+The weather had now become fine. At length we reached the habitations
+of men--a collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of
+granitic hills lying north-west. As we approached the southern extremity
+of this chain, knots of naked men, perched like monkeys on the granite
+blocks were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The guides, following the
+usages of the country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and
+look out for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a
+messenger to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were visitors
+from Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and forward us to our
+brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty welcome; for Chongi had
+been appointed governor by Kamrasi of this district, which appears to
+have been the extreme northern limit of the originally vast kingdom
+of Kittara. All the elite of the place, covered with war-paints, and
+dressed, so far as their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in
+a fair, charging down the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after
+performing their customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and invited
+us up the hill, where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a very old man,
+attended by his familiar, advanced to receive us--one holding a white
+hen, the other a small gourd of pombe and a little twig.
+
+Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and taking
+the fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the ground in front
+of his assembled visitors. After this ceremony had been also repeated
+by the familiar, Chongi then took the gourd and twig, and sprinkled
+the contents all over us; retired to the Uganga, or magic house--a
+very diminutive hut--sprinkled pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a
+cow-skin under a tree, bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making
+many apologies that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had
+reduced his stores. What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!!
+Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress consisted of
+bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers or cowrie-beads on
+the head. Even the women contented themselves with a few fibres hung
+like tails before and behind. Some of our men who had seen the Watuta in
+Utambara, declared these savages to resemble them in every particular,
+save one small specialty in their costume, alluded to in the description
+of the Zulu Kafir's dress. The hair of the men was dressed in the same
+fantastic fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it
+rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom they
+much fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they go.
+
+Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the Madi
+occupy all the country west of this meridian to the Nile, which is far
+beyond sight. The villages are composed of little conical huts of
+grass, on a framework of bamboo raised above low mud walls. There are no
+sultans here of any consequence, each village appointing its own chief.
+The granitic hills, like those of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty,
+and clad with trees, contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of
+indefinite extend around, which give the place, when compared with the
+people, the appearance of a paradise within the infernal regions. From
+the site of Koki we saw the hills behind which, according to Bombay,
+Petherick was situated with his vessels; and we also saw a nearer hill,
+behind which his advanced post of elephant-hunters were waiting our
+arrival.
+
+I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South African
+dialects, by which one might determine the difference between the people
+and the country; but I was assured that both here and in the adjacent
+countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi, Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for
+person and place, though Jo in their language is the equivalent for
+Wa in South Africa, and Dano takes the place of Mtu. All the words and
+system of language were wholly changed--as for example, Poko poko wingi
+bongo, means "we do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe,
+"there is none"; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people
+resembles that of the Tibet Tartars. Chongi considers himself the
+greatest man in the country, and of noble descent, his great-grandfather
+having been a Mhuma, born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and appointed by the then
+reigning king to rule over this country, and keep the Kidi people in
+check.
+
+30th.--We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well as of
+the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in grain, as the
+Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers--for so they thought fit to designate
+Petherick's elephant-hunters--had eaten up the country all about them,
+and those who went before with Bombay to visit their camp could get no
+food.
+
+1st.--We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to the
+delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe, promised
+a cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by stopping, and
+said that without fail he would furnish us with guides who knew a short
+cut across country, by which we might reach the Wichwesi camp in one
+march, instead of going by the circuitous route which Bombay formerly
+took. The cow, however, never came, as the old man did not intend to
+give his own, and his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one
+of theirs.
+
+We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters
+refusing to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them on
+the country people, as they said, "We have endured all the trouble and
+hardships of bringing these visitors through the wilderness; and now,
+as they have visited you, it is your place to help them on." The
+consequence was, we had to engage fresh porters at every village, each
+in turn saying he had done all the work which with justice fell to his
+lot, till at last we arrived at the borders of a jungle, where the men
+last engaged, feeling tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the
+direct road, and turned off to the longer one, where villages and men
+were in abundance, thus upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual
+distance.
+
+To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the whole
+day travelling without making good much ground. From the Gani people we
+had, without any visible change, mingled with the Madi people, who dress
+in the same naked fashion as their neighbours, and use bows and arrows.
+Their villages were all surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country
+in its general aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi. At one
+place, the good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their
+village, spread a skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front
+two pots of pombe. At the village where we put up, however, the women
+and children of the head man at first all ran away, and the head man
+himself was very shy of us, thinking we were some unearthly creatures.
+He became more reconciled to us, however, when he perceived we fed like
+rational beings; and, calling his family in by midnight, presented
+us with pombe, and made many apologies for having allowed us to dine
+without a drop of his beer, for he was very glad to see us.
+
+
+
+
+Chapter XX. Madi
+
+Junction of the Two Hemispheres--The First Contact with Persons
+Acquainted with European Habits--Interruptions and Plots--The Mysterious
+Mahamed--Native Revelries--The Plundering and Tyranny of the Turks--The
+Rascalities of the Ivory Trade--Feeling for the Nile--Taken to see a
+Mark left by a European--Buffalo, Eland, and Rhinoceros Stalking--Meet
+Baker--Petherick's Arrival at Gondokoro.
+
+After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say, hot
+water to wash with--for he did not know how else to show hospitality
+better--we started again in the same straggling manner as yesterday. In
+two hours we reached the palace of Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions,
+and were summoned to stop and drink pombe. In my haste to meet
+Petherick's expedition, I would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly
+on, despite all entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my
+porters, who, I saw clearly, wished to do me out of another day.
+
+Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half Grant
+and I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in sight of what we
+thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3 deg. 10' 33", and E. long. 21 deg.
+50' 45". My men, as happy as we were ourselves, now begged I would allow
+them to fire their guns, and prepare the Turks for our reception. Crack,
+bang, went their carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard
+from the northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height
+and other conspicuous place was covered with men. Our hearts leapt
+with an excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped from
+long-continued banishment among barbarians, once more to meet with
+civilised people, and join old friends. Every minute increased this
+excitement. We saw three large red flags heading a military procession,
+which marched out of the camp with drums and fifes playing. I halted
+and allowed them to draw near. When they did so, a very black man, named
+Mahamed, in full Egyptian regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his
+regiment to halt, and threw himself into my arms, endeavouring to
+hug and kiss me. Rather staggered at this unexpected manifestation of
+affection, which was like a conjunction of the two hemispheres, I gave
+him a squeeze in return for his hug, but raised my head above the reach
+of his lips, and asked who was his master? "Petrik," was the reply. "And
+where is Petherick now?" "Oh, he is coming." "How is it you have not
+got English colours, then?" "The colours are Debono's." "Who is Debono?"
+"The same as Petrik; but come along into my camp, and let us talk it out
+there;" saying which, Mahamed ordered his regiment (a ragamuffin mixture
+of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves of all sorts, about two hundred in
+number) to rightabout, and we were guided by him, whilst his men kept up
+an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting arms and firing, until we
+reached his huts, situated in a village kept exactly in the same order
+as that of the natives. Mahamed then gave us two beds to sit upon, and
+ordered his wives to advance on their knees and give us coffee, whilst
+other men brought pombe, and prepared us a dinner of bread and honey and
+mutton.
+
+A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men were
+ordered to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with Mahamed's men; for
+Mahamed said, now we had come there, his work was finished. "If that is
+the case," I said, "tell us your orders; there must be some letters." He
+said, "No, I have no letters or written orders; though I have directions
+to take you to Gondokoro as soon as you come. I am Debono's Vakil,
+and am glad you are come, for we are all tired of waiting for you. Our
+business has been to collect ivory whilst waiting for you." I said, "How
+is it Petherick has not come here to meet me? is he married?" "Yes, he
+is married; and both he and his wife ride fore-and-aft on one animal at
+Khartum." "Well, then, where is the tree you told Bombay you would
+point out to us with Petherick's name on it?" "Oh, that is on the way to
+Gondokoro. It was not Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told
+me to look out for your coming this way. We don't know his name, but he
+said if we pointed it out to you, you would know at once."
+
+4th.--After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled round the
+place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were all married to
+the women of the country, whom they had dressed in clothes and beads.
+Their children were many, with a prospect of more. Temporary marriages,
+however, were more common than others--as, in addition to their slaves,
+they hired the daughters of the villagers, who remained with them whilst
+they were trading here, but went back to their parents when they marched
+to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle, which it was
+said they had plundered from the natives, and now used for food, or to
+exchange for ivory, or other purposes. The scenery and situation were
+perfect for health and beauty. The settlement lay at the foot of
+small, well-wooded granitic hills, even prettier than the outcrops of
+Unyamuezi, and was intersected by clear streams.
+
+At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in person.
+This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on his former
+journey. He said he felt greatly disappointed at my pushing past him
+yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but still hoped I would go
+over and make friends with him. I gave him some beads and off he walked.
+Old Chongi's "children," who had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's,
+then took some beads and cast-off clothes for themselves and their
+father, and left us in good-humour.
+
+This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and Kidgwiga's. With
+these, now, as there was no letter from Petherick, I ordered a march for
+the next morning, but at once met with opposition. Mahamed told me that
+there were no vessels at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which
+time he expected they would arrive there, and some one would come to
+meet him with beads. I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to
+have boats there all the year round, so I would not wait. "Then," said
+Mahamed, "we cannot go with you, for there is a famine at this season
+at Gondokoro." I said, "Never mind; do you give me an interpreter, and
+I will go as I am." "No," said Mahamed, "that will not do, as the Bari
+people are so savage, you could not get through them with so small a
+force; besides which, just now there is a stream which cannot be crossed
+for a month or more."
+
+Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any longer,
+I accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as all the common
+savage chiefs had done wherever I went, because they wished me to stop
+for their own satisfaction, quite disregarding my wishes and interest;
+so I said I would not stop there any longer I would raft over the river,
+and find my way through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the
+African savages. We talked and talked, but could make nothing of it. I
+maintained that if he was commissioned to help me, he at least could
+not refuse to give me a guide and interpreter; when, if I failed in the
+direct route, I would try another, but go I must, as I could not hold
+out any longer, being short of beads and cows. I had just enough, but
+none to spare. He told me not to think of such a thing, as he would give
+me all that was needful, both for myself and my men; but if I would have
+patience, he would collect all his officers, and the next morning would
+see what their opinions were on the subject.
+
+5th.--I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our going
+to Gondokoro. They told me, in fact, with one voice, that it was quite
+impossible; but they said, if I liked they would furnish me guides
+to escort me on ten marches to a depot at the further end of the Madi
+country, and if I chose to wait there until they could collect all
+their ivory tusks together and join us, we would be a united party too
+formidable to be resisted by the Bari people. This offer of immediate
+guides I of course accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only
+desire at that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were
+deserting. Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching
+Gondokoro by myself. In the best good-humour now, I showed Mahamed our
+picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his two hundred men
+every Friday, I said I would, if he liked, command them myself. This
+being agreed to, all the men turned out in their best, and, to
+my surprise, they not only knew the Turkish words of command, but
+manoeuvred with some show of good training; though, as might have been
+expected with men of this ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders
+as well as their captains.
+
+When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the efficiency of
+his corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I had him now in a
+good-humour, again discussed our plans for going ahead the next day.
+Scarcely able to look me in the face, the humbugging scoundrel said he
+could not think of allowing me to go on without him, for if any accident
+happened he would be blamed for it. At the same time, he could not move
+for a few days, as he expected a party of men to arrive about the next
+new moon with ivory. My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I
+had spent so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do so
+with him?
+
+I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my plans.
+Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not be able to keep
+my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another white visitor, who
+would perhaps do what I had left undone, when I did not follow up the
+connection of the Little Luta Nzige with the Nile. We battled away
+again, and then Mahamed said there was not one man in his camp who would
+go with me until their crops were cut and taken in; for whilst residing
+here they grew grain for their support. We battled again, and Mahamed
+at last, out of patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I
+am in," showing me a hut full of ivory. "Who," he said, "is to carry all
+this until the natives have got in their crops?" This, I said, so far
+as I was concerned, was all nonsense. I merely had asked him for a guide
+and interpreter, for go I must. In a huff he then absconded; and my
+men--those of them who were not too drunk--came and said to me, "For
+Godsake let us stop here. Mahamed says the road is too dangerous for us
+to go alone; he has promised to carry all our loads for us if we stop;
+and all Kamrasi's men are running away, because they are afraid to go
+on."
+
+6th.--Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure two men
+as guides and interpreters. He said he could not find any. I then went
+at Mahamed again, who first said he would give me the two men I wanted,
+then went off, and sent word to say he would not be visible for three
+days. This was too much for my patience, so I ordered all my things to
+be tied up in marching order, and gave out that I should leave and find
+out the way myself the following morning. Like an evil spirit stirred
+up, my preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed
+appeared again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he promised
+us guides if I would consent to write him a note, testifying that my
+going was against his expressed desire.
+
+This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were put
+out for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides would take
+service with us. It was now obvious that, even supposing I succeeded in
+taking Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would not have a sufficient escort to
+come back with, unless, indeed, it happened that Englishmen might be
+there who might wish to carry out my investigations by penetrating to
+the Little Luta Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi. I therefore called
+Kidgwiga, and after explaining these circumstances, advised him to go
+back to Kamrasi. He was loth to leave, he said, until his commission was
+fully performed; but as I thought it advisable, he would consent. I then
+gave him a double gun and ammunition, as well as some very rich beads
+which I obtained from Mahamed's stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with
+orders to say that, as soon as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would
+send another white man to him--not by the way I had come through Kidi,
+but by the left bank of the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will
+do famously, for Kamrasi will change his residence soon, and come on the
+Nile this side of Rionga's palace, in order that he may cut in between
+his brother and the Turks' guns."
+
+After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself, and a
+lot also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's palaces, and
+sent the whole set off as happy as birds. When these men were gone, I
+tried to get up an elephant-shooting excursion due west of this, with a
+view to see where the Nile was, for I would not believe it was very far
+off, although no one as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could
+tell me where the stream had gone to.
+
+8th. Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to such
+a scheme. He called the heads of the villages to give me all the
+information I sought for, and went with me to the top of a high rock,
+from which we could see the hills I first viewed at Chopi, sweeping
+round from south by east to north, which demarked the line of the Asua
+river. The Nile at that moment was, I believed, not very far off; yet,
+do or say what I would, everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and
+could not be visited under a month. [25] It would be necessary for me
+to take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides all my own, to go there,
+which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should have to pay them for
+their services. This was a damper at once.
+
+I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than be out
+of the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to wait patiently,
+write the history of the Wahuma, and make collections, till Mahamed was
+ready, trusting that I might find some one at Gondokoro who would finish
+what I had left undone; or else, after arriving there, I might go up the
+Nile in boats and see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by
+the sound of drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight,
+I found the natives were dancing. A more indecent or savage spectacle
+I never witnessed. The whole place was alive with naked humanity in a
+state of constant motion. Drawing near, I found that a number of drums
+were beaten by men in the centre. Next to them was a deep ring of women,
+half of whom carried their babies; and outside these again was a still
+deeper circle of men, some blowing horns, but most holding their spears
+erect. To the sound of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes
+kept jumping and sidling round and round the drummers, making the most
+grotesque and obscene motions to one another.
+
+9th to 14th.--Nothing of material consequence happened until the 14th,
+when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and thirty tusks of
+ivory, as a present to Mahamed. Of course, I knew this was a bribe to
+induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga against Kamrasi; but, counting
+that no affair of mine, I tried to induce these men to give me some
+geographical information of the countries they had just left. Not one of
+them would come near me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and
+Mahamed's men, when they saw mine attempting to converse with them,
+abused them for "prying into other men's concerns." "These men,"
+they said, "are our friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them
+presents of cloth and beads, and they give us a return in ivory, what
+is that to you?" Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and begged for a
+blanket, as he said he was going off for a few days to a depot where he
+had some ivory; and he also wanted to borrow a musket, as one of his had
+been burnt.
+
+My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I began
+to think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might hold the
+place whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men; so I begged
+him to listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross the Nile, "else,"
+I said, "all his guns would be taken from him, and his passage back cut
+off." At once he saw the drift of my thought, and said he was not going
+towards the Nile, but on the contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in
+the opposite direction, to a place called Paira. "If that is the case,"
+I said, "why do you want a gun?" "Because there are some other matters
+to settle. I shall not be long away, and my men will take care of
+you whilst I am gone." I gave him the blanket after this, but was too
+suspicious of his object to lend him a gun.
+
+15th to 20th.--I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place, drums
+and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing, officers
+riding,--some of them on donkeys and others--yes, actually on cows!
+whilst a host of the natives, Rionga's men included, carrying spears and
+bows and arrows, looked little like a peaceful caravan of merchants, but
+very much resembled a band of marauders. After this I heard they were
+not going to Rionga himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way
+that they made friends with old Chongi of Koki. In reality, Chongi had
+invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose territories
+immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and the people had an
+endless number of cattle--for they lived by plunder, and had lifted most
+of old Chongi's; and this was the service on which the expedition had
+set off.
+
+21st to 31st.--I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came here,
+and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the natives, that
+these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian taskmasters," and
+therefore was not surprised now to find them pull down their huts and
+march off with the materials to a distant site. Every day this sort of
+migration continued, just as you see in the picture; and nothing more
+important occurred until Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught,
+and I heard from Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and
+burnt down three villages, and in all probability they would return
+shortly laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the
+31st, Mahamed came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and
+driving in five slave-girls and thirty head of cattle.
+
+1st to 3d.--I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could get no
+true information out of the suspicious blackguards who called themselves
+Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th, by which time he said
+he would be able to collect all the men he wanted to carry his ivory.
+Rionga's men then departed, and Mahamed showed some signs of getting
+ready by ordering one dozen cows to be killed, the flesh of which was
+to be divided amongst those villagers who would carry his ivory, and
+the skins to be cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory
+together in suitable loads.
+
+4th and 5th.--Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my
+notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of ivory to
+Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been seized as a slave
+on his last expedition, in common with others who could not run away
+fast enough to save themselves from the Turks. Fortunately for both,
+it was thought necessary for the Turks to keep on good terms with the
+father as an influential man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk,
+Mahamed gave back the girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship.
+
+6th to 10th.--I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail like a
+negro chief. Some men who had fled from their village when Mahamed's
+plundering party passed by them the other day, surprised that he did not
+stop to sack their homes, now brought ten large tusks of ivory to him
+to express the gratitude they said they felt for his not having molested
+them. Mahamed, on finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion,
+instead of thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose
+clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though they
+had done well in seeking his friendship, they had not sufficiently
+considered his dignity, else they would have brought double that number
+of tusks, for it was impossible he could be satisfied at so low a price.
+"What," said these poor creatures, "can we do then? for this is all we
+have got." "Oh," says Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store,
+I will take these few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro,
+I expect you will bring me just as many more. Good-bye, and look out for
+yourselves."
+
+Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I could not
+get him to start, I now started myself, much to his disgust, and went
+ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for him at the next place,
+provided he did not delay more than one day. The march led us over long
+rolling downs of grass, where we saw a good many antelopes feeding;
+and after going ten miles, we came, among other villages, to one named
+Panyoro, in which we found it convenient to put up. At first all the
+villagers, thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what
+stores they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they
+returned again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig up a
+shed with grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our dinner.
+
+12th.--To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at a
+rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not succeed in
+killing one head. All my men were surprised as well as myself; and the
+villagers who were escorting me in the hope of getting flesh, were so
+annoyed at their disappointment, they offered to cut my fore-finger with
+a spear and spit on it for good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them
+the powder must be crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found
+that the sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created
+a general laugh at all in turn. Going home from the shooting, I found
+all the villagers bolting again with their cattle and stores, and, on
+looking towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks coming.
+
+As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them back
+again, when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done? We were so happy
+yesterday when we found out who you were, but now we see you have
+brought those men, all our hearts have sunk again; for they beat us,
+they make us carry their loads, and they rob us in such a manner, we
+know not what to do." I told them I would protect them if they would
+keep quiet; and, when the Turks came, I told them what I had said to the
+head man. They were the vanguard of Mahamed's party, and said they had
+orders to march on as far as Apuddo with me, where we must all stop
+for Mahamed, who, as well as he could, was collecting men. There was
+a certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by an Englishman two years
+ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us amused.
+
+The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages within
+sight of the Nile. It was truly ridiculous; here had we been at Faloro
+so long, and yet could not make out what had become of the Nile. In
+appearance it was a noble stream, flowing on a flat bed from west to
+east, and immediately beyond it were the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to
+a height of 2000 feet above the river. Still we could not make out all,
+until the following day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and
+arrived at Jaifi.
+
+This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains The
+central portions of Eastern Madi. At this place the Turks killed a
+crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement of my men, who
+immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are
+these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a
+crocodile."
+
+After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to
+see the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before.
+There, sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its
+bark, but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had
+healed up. In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks
+said he was exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice
+even much resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro
+two years ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts
+the people gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like
+the prospect of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at
+Faloro. He knew we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed
+Mahamed to point out his name if we did so.
+
+We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained
+outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a
+camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told
+they had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking
+their dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they
+wanted. It was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in
+our trying to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would
+make enough to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their
+lot; for the "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there
+seemed to be nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers
+sought for wild berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves
+out of their half-filled bins--a small reserve store to last up to the
+far-distant harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs
+were at war with one another.
+
+At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to
+attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out
+and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out
+that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone--after
+that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed
+going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide;
+but he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would
+then be down upon him. Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to
+pay my way with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter
+quietly, and went out foraging with the rifle.
+
+18th and 19th.--Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not get
+near them. On bending round homewards, however, three buffaloes, feeding
+in the distance, on the top of a roll of high ground beyond where we
+stood, were observed by the natives, who had flocked out in the hopes of
+getting flesh. To stalk them, I went up wind to near where I expected to
+find them; then bidding the natives lie down, I stole along through the
+grass until at last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close
+in front of me. Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently
+raised myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there was no
+mistake about what they were; still, look from as high as I would, I
+could not see their bodies. The thought never struck me they were lying
+down in such open ground in the day-time; so, as I could not go closer
+without driving them off, I took a shot with my single rifle at where I
+judged the chest of the nearest one ought to be, and then discovered my
+error. In an instant all three sprang on their legs and scampered off. I
+began loading, but before I had half accomplished my object, those three
+had mingled with the three previously seen grazing, and all six together
+came charging straight at me. I really thought I should now catch a
+toss, if I were not trampled to death; but suddenly, as they saw me
+standing, whether from fear or what else I cannot say, they changed
+their ferocious-looking design, swerved round, and galloped off as fast
+as their legs could carry them. This was bad luck; but Grant made up for
+it the next day by killing a very fine buck nsamma.
+
+20th.--I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought one
+was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for three miles
+towards the east, I found myself at once in view of the Nile on one
+hand, and the long-heard-of Asua river on the other, backed by hills
+even higher than the Jbl Kuku. The bed of the Asua seemed very large,
+but, being far off, was not very distinct, nor did I care to go and see
+it them; for at that moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes,
+five giraffes, two eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a
+temptation.
+
+The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first at the
+eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those I shot in
+Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way, gave the alarm, and
+drove all but two of the buffaloes away. At these two I now went with
+my only rifle, leaving the servants and savages behind. They were out
+in the open grass feeding composedly, so that I stole up to within forty
+yards of them, and then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my
+opportunity, and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one. At
+the sound of the gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they pulled
+up in the same naked ground as myself, sniffing and tossing their horns,
+while looking out for their antagonist, who, as quick as themselves, had
+thrown himself flat on the ground.
+
+There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of the
+buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg, for the
+bullet had traversed his body, and the other turning round and round
+looking out for me, while I was anxiously watching him, and by degrees
+loading my gun. When ready, I tried a shot at the sound one, but the cap
+snapped and nearly betrayed me, for they both stared at the spot where I
+lay--the sound one sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other
+bleeding considerably. Some minutes more passed in this manner, when
+they allowed me to breathe freer by walking away. I followed, of course,
+but could not get a good chance; so, as the night set in, I let them
+alone for the time being, to get out the following morning.
+
+21st and 22d.--At the place where I left off, I now sprang a large
+herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a mile, when the
+wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue, pulled up for a charge,
+and allowed me to knock him over. This was glorious fun for the
+villagers, who cut him up on the spot and brought him home. Of course,
+one half the flesh was given to them, in return for which they brought
+us some small delicacies to show their gratitude; for, as they truly
+remarked, until we came to their village they never knew what it was to
+get a present, or any other gift by a good thrashing.
+
+23d.--To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the hill,
+two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very excited manner.
+I did not wish to fire at them, as what few bullets remained in my store
+I wished to reserve in better sport, and therefore for the time being,
+let them alone. Presently, however, they separated; one passed in front
+of us, stopped to drink in a pool, and then lay down in it. Not heeding
+him, I walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still trotting,
+suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of us,
+obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save time, I
+gave him a bullet, and knocked him over. To my surprise, the natives who
+were with me would not touch his flesh, though pressed by me to "n'yam
+n'yam," or to eat. I found that they considered him an unclean beast;
+so, regretting I had wasted my bullet, I went farther on and startled
+some buffaloes.
+
+Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing up in
+front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front shot at any
+of them. Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I had to return
+empty-handed.
+
+24th to 30th.--Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by shooting
+three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence transpired until the
+30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum, arrived with the greater part
+of the Turk's property. He then confirmed a report we had heard before,
+that, some days previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and
+join us, which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his
+party had a row with the villagers, and lost their property. Bukhet then
+returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon hearing
+which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by returning to
+me empty-handed? Go back at once and recover your things else how can I
+make my report at Gondokoro?" With these peremptory orders Bukhet went
+back to Panyoro, and commenced to attack it. The contest did not last
+long; for, after three of Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to
+the villages, killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his
+own lost property, took one hundred cows.
+
+31st.--To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the march
+onwards. This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks alone required
+six hundred porters--half that number to carry their ivory, and the
+other half to carry their beds and bedding; whilst from fifty to sixty
+men was the most a village had to spare, and all the village chiefs were
+at enmity with one another. The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon
+the heads of all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would
+seize all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he
+ordered them all to furnish him with so many porters a-head, saying he
+demanded it of them, for the "great government's property" could not be
+left on the ground. Their separate interests must now be sacrificed, and
+their feuds suspended: and if he heard, on his return again, that one
+village had taken advantage of the other's weakness caused by their
+employment in his service, he would then not spare his bullets,--so they
+might look out for themselves.
+
+Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's nest,
+had a grand feast. They gave us two of the eggs, which we ate, but did
+not like, for they had a highly musky flavour.
+
+1st.--On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and the
+first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number of men
+could not be collected at once to move all together. In a little while
+we struck on the Nile, where it was running like a fine Highland stream
+between the gneiss and mica-schist hills of Kuku, and followed it down
+to near where the Asua river joined it. For a while we sat here watching
+the water, which was greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes. The
+river was not as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls,
+yet, according to Dr Khoblecher's [26] account, it ought to have been
+flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. Here we
+left it again as it arched round by the west, and forded the Asua river,
+a stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the breast when waded, but
+not very broad. It did not appear to me as if connected with Victoria
+N'yanza, as the waters were falling, and not much discoloured; whereas
+judging from the Nile's condition, it ought to have been rising. No
+vessel ever could have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the
+Nile itself. The exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by
+the expeditionists who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not
+surprise us, since they had mistaken its position; for we were now 3 deg.
+42' north, and therefore had passed their "farthest point" by twenty
+miles.
+
+In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found it
+deserted. Every man and woman had run off into the jungles from fright,
+and would not come back again. We wished ourselves at the end of the
+journey; thought anything better than this kind of existence--living
+entirely at the expense of others; even the fleecings in Usui felt less
+dispiriting; but it could not be helped, for it must always exist as
+long as these Turks are allowed to ride rough-shod over the people. The
+Turks, however, had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men
+and one Bari slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered
+cattle, and neither they nor the cattle could be found again. Mijalwa
+was here convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst living in
+his hut when he was away at the Paira plundering and got fifty lashes to
+teach him better behaviour for the future.
+
+A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of this, to
+take service as porters, knowing that at this season the Turks always
+come with a large herd of plundered cattle, which they call government
+property, and give in payment to the men who carry their tusks of ivory
+across the Bari country.
+
+We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with
+bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine trees,
+resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping one night at
+the settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where we had to halt a day
+for Mahamed to collect some ivory from a depot he had formed near by.
+We heard there was another ivory party collecting tusks at Obbo, a
+settlement in the country of Panuquara, twenty miles east of this.
+
+Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling over
+more rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of small hills, put
+up at the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we had to halt two days to
+collect a full complement of porters to traverse the Bari country, the
+people of which are denounced as barbarians by the Turks, because they
+will not submit to be bullied into carrying their tusks for them. Here
+we felt an earthquake. The people would not take beads, preferring, they
+said, to make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they cut
+into the size of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole through
+their centre to string them together. A passenger told us that three
+white men had just arrived in vessels at Gondokoro; and the Bari people,
+hearing of our advance, instead of trying to kill us with spears,
+had determined to poison all the water in their country. Mahamed now
+disposed of half of his herd of cows, giving them to the chiefs of the
+villages in return for porters. These, he said, were all that belonged
+to the government; for the half of all captures of cows, as well as all
+slaves, all goats, and sheep, were allowed to the men as part of their
+pay.
+
+When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi; and
+next day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari country. I
+wished still to put up in the native villages, but Mahamed so terrified
+all my men, by saying these Bari would kill us in the night if we
+did not all sleep together in one large camp, that we were obliged to
+submit. The country, still flanked on the right by hills, was undulating
+and very prettily wooded. Villages were numerous, but as we passed them
+the inhabitants all fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the
+rest, would stand and look on at us as we marched along. Both night and
+morning the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to eat
+they sacked the villages.
+
+Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in
+sight of the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a short
+distance of the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers delight in
+cutting their names. The country continued the same, but the grass was
+conspicuously becoming shorter and finer every day--so much so, that my
+men all declared it was a sign of our near approach to England. After
+we had settled down for the night, and the Turks had finished plundering
+the nearest villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately
+afterwards the whole place was alive with Bari people. Their drums were
+beaten as a sign that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the
+villages around responded by beating also. The Turks grew somewhat
+alarmed at this, and as darkness began to set in, sent out patrols in
+addition to their nightly watches. The savages next tried to steal in
+on us, but were soon frightened off by the patrols cocking their guns.
+Then, seeing themselves defeated in that tactic, they collected in
+hundreds in front of us, set fire to the grass, and marched up and
+down, brandishing ignited grass in their hands, howling like demons, and
+swearing they would annihilate us in the morning.
+
+We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in to
+Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4 deg. 54' 5", and E. long. 31 deg. 46' 9", where Mahamed,
+after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian merchant, named
+Kurshid Agha. Our first inquiry was, of course, for Petherick. A
+mysterious silence ensued; we were informed that Mr Debono was THE man
+we had to thank for the assistance we had received in coming from Madi;
+and then in hot haste, after warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's
+friend, who was Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up
+Petherick. Walking down the bank of the river--where a line of vessels
+was moored, and on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down,
+with a brick-built house representing the late Austrian Church Mission
+establishment--we saw hurrying on towards us the form of an Englishman,
+who, for one moment, we believed was the Simon Pure; but the next moment
+my old friend Baker, famed for his sports in Ceylon, seized me by the
+hand. A little boy of his establishment had reported our arrival, and
+he in an instant came out to welcome us. What joy this was I can hardly
+tell. We could not talk fast enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet
+again. Of course we were his guests in a moment, and learned everything
+that could be told. I now first heard of the death of H.R.H. the
+Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on the inspiring words he made
+use of, in compliment to myself, when I was introduced to him by Sir
+Roderick Murchison, a short while before leaving England. Then there was
+the terrible war in America, and other events of less startling nature,
+which came on us all by surprise, as years had now passed since we had
+received news from the civilised world.
+
+Baker then said he had come up with three vessels--one dyabir and two
+nuggers--fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses, donkeys, beads,
+brass wire, and everything necessary for a long journey, expressly to
+look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said, to find us on the equator in
+some terrible fix, that he might have the pleasure of helping us out of
+it. He had heard of Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to
+come in, that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with
+comfortably. Three Dutch ladies [27], also, with a view to assist us in
+the same way as Baker (God bless them), had come here in a steamer, but
+were driven back to Khartum by sickness. Nobody had even dreamt for a
+moment it was possible we could come through. An Italian, named
+Miani, had gone farther up the Nile than any one else; and he, it now
+transpired, was the man who had cut his name on the tree by Apuddo.
+But what had become of Petherick? He was actually trading at N'yambara,
+seventy miles due west of this, though he had, since I left him in
+England, raised a subscription of L1000, from those of my friends to
+whom this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest return
+a grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me, when knowing
+the fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy.
+
+Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have done--so
+I was assured--he waited, whilst a vessel was building, until the season
+had too far advanced to enable him to sail up the river. In short, he
+lost the north winds at 7 deg. north, and went overland to his trading depot
+at N'yambara. Previously, however, he had sent some boats up to this,
+under a Vakil, who had his orders to cross to his trading depot at
+N'yambara, and to work from his trading station due south, ostensibly
+with a view to look after me, though contrary to my advice before
+leaving him in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of
+assisting me when he applied for help to succour me, and against the
+strongly-expressed opinions of every European in the same trade as
+himself; for all alike said they knew he would have gone to Faloro, and
+pushed south from that place, had his trade on the west of the Nile not
+attracted him there.
+
+Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked me if
+there was anything left undone which it might be of importance for him
+to go on and complete, by survey or otherwise; for, although he should
+like to go down the river with us, he did not wish to return home
+without having done something to recompense him for the trouble and
+expense he had incurred in getting up his large expedition. Of course
+I told him how disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the
+Little Luta Nzige. I described how we had seen the Nile bending west
+where we crossed in Chopi, and then, after walking down the chord of an
+arc described by the river, had found it again in Madi coming from the
+west, whence to the south, and as far at least as Koshi, it was said to
+be navigable, probably continuing to be so right into the Little Luta
+Nzige. Should this be the case, then, by building boats in Madi above
+the cataracts, a vast region might be thrown open to the improving
+influences of navigation. Further, I told Baker of my contract with
+Kamrasi, and of the property I had left behind, with a view to stimulate
+any enterprising man who might be found at this place to go there, make
+good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my share of the things,
+for the better prosecution of his own travels there. This Baker at once
+undertook, though he said he did not want my property; and I drew out
+suggestions for him how to proceed. He then made friends with Mahamed,
+who promised to help him on to Faloro, and I gave Mahamed and his men
+three carbines as an honorarium.
+
+I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been in
+"distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had to remain
+until the 26th, living with Baker. Kurshid Agha became very great
+friends with us, and, at once making a present of a turkey, a case of
+wine, and cigars, said he was only sorry for his own sake that we had
+found a fellow-countryman, else he would have had the envied honour of
+claiming us as his guests, and had the pleasure of transporting us in
+his vessels down to Khartum.
+
+The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian Mission, were
+here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see the old place again
+before they left for Khartum; for the Austrian Government, discouraged
+by the failure of so many years, had ordered the recall of the whole
+of the establishment for these regions. It was no wonder these men were
+recalled; for, out of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen
+years, had ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating
+the Gospel, thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had
+retired broken in health, yet not one convert had been made by them.
+
+The fact is, there was no government to control the population or to
+protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures, and even
+showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it ended; they had no
+heart to study when no visible returns were to be gained. One day the
+people would examine the books, at another throw them aside, say their
+stomachs were empty, and run away to look for food. The Bari people at
+Gondokoro were described as being more tractable than those of
+Kich, being of a braver and more noble nature; but they were all
+half-starved--not because the country was too poor to produce, but
+because they were too lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they
+consumed before it was fully ripe, and then either sought for fish in
+the river or fed on tortoises in the interior, as they feared they might
+never reap what they sowed.
+
+The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks, and to
+this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to Europeans,
+had the White Nile traders not brought the devil amongst them. Mr
+Moorlan remembers the time when they brought food for sale; but now,
+instead, they turn their backs upon all foreigners, and even abuse the
+missionaries for having been the precursors of such dire calamities. The
+shell of the brick church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a
+native-built hut in Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of
+these Christian exertions to improve the condition of these heathens.
+Want of employment, I heard was the chief operative cause in killing the
+poor missionaries; for, with no other resource left them to kill time,
+they spent their days eating, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, till they
+broke down their constitutions by living too fast.
+
+Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could not do
+more for us. His headquarters were at Kich, some way down the river,
+where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be able to show us as
+much attention and hospitality as lay in his power. Mosquitoes were said
+to be extremely troublesome on the river, and my men begged for some
+clothes, as Petherick, they said, had a store for me under the charge of
+his Vakil. The storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of
+my men, I begged him to give me what was my own. It then turned out that
+it was all Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account anything
+that I wanted. This being settled, I took ninety-five yards of the
+commonest stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains for my men, besides
+four sailor's shirts for my head men.
+
+On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of musketry,
+a mile or two down the river, and went off in his vessels to the relief.
+A party of his had come across from the N'yambara country with ivory,
+and on the banks of the Nile, a few miles north of this, were engaged
+fighting with the natives. He arrived just in time to settle the
+difficulty, and next day came back again, having shot some of the enemy
+and captured their cows. Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of
+the same kind, upon which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant
+to succour him; but he arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr
+James Murie, to save us the trouble, and told me he had brought a number
+of men with him, carrying ivory, for the purpose now of looking after me
+on the east bank of the Nile, by following its course up to the south,
+though he had given up all hope of seeing me, as a report had reached
+him of the desertion of my porters at Ugogo. He then offered me his
+dyabir, as well as anything else that I wanted that lay within his power
+to give. Suffice it to say, I had, through Baker's generosity, at that
+very moment enough and to spare; but at his urgent request I took a
+few more yards of cloth for my men, and some cooking fat; and, though I
+offered to pay for it, he declined to accept any return at my hands.
+
+Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick--for I had hurried
+away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari, solely to keep faith
+with him--I did not wish to break friendship, but dined and conversed
+with him, when it transpired that his Vakil, or agent, who went south
+from the N'yambara station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from
+them that a large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was
+flowing from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women," who,
+when they wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream and returned;
+and then, again, beyond this tribe of women there lived another tribe of
+women and dogs. Now, this may all seem a very strange story to those who
+do not know the negro's and Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at
+once came very natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted
+thus:--The river, running from east to west, according to the native
+mode of expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little Luta Nzige
+running the opposite way, according to fact and our mode of expression.
+The first tribe of women were doubtless the Wanyoro--called women by
+the naked tribes on this side because they wear bark coverings--an
+effeminate appendage, in the naked man's estimation; and the second
+tribe must have been in allusion to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also
+would be considered women, as they wear bark clothes. In my turn, I told
+Petherick he had missed a good thing by not going up the river to
+look for me; for, had he done so, he would not only have had the best
+ivory-grounds to work upon, but, by building a vessel in Madi above
+the cataracts, he would have had, in my belief, some hundred miles of
+navigable water to transport his merchandise. In short, his succouring
+petition was most admirably framed, had he stuck to it, for the welfare
+of both of us. [28]
+
+We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir
+Roderick Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had awarded
+me their "founder's medal" for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza in
+1858.
+
+
+
+
+Conclusion
+
+
+
+My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and carried me
+through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might have been worth
+while to describe. Thinking, however, that I have already sufficiently
+trespassed on the patience of the reader, I am unwilling to overload my
+volume with any matter that does not directly relate to the solution
+of the great problem which I went to solve. Having now, then, after
+a period of twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European
+travellers, and met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude
+with a few explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various
+branches of the Nile with its affluences, so as to show their respective
+values.
+
+The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for instead
+of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an elbow of the
+Nile, we found only a small piece of water resembling a duck-pond buried
+in a sea of rushes. The old Nile swept through it with majestic grace,
+and carried us next to the Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the
+second affluent, which we found flowing into the Nile with a graceful
+semicircular sweep and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more
+than fifty yards broad.
+
+Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the Nile
+in the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it surpassed,
+but in velocity of current was inferior. The Nile by these additions was
+greatly increased; still it did not assume that noble appearance which
+astonished us so much, immediately after the rainy season, when we were
+navigating it in canoes in Unyoro.
+
+I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N. lat. 9 deg.
+20' 48", E. long. 31 deg. 24' 0". The Sobat has a third mouth farther down
+the Nile, which unfortunately was passed without my knowing it; but as
+it is so well known to be unimportant, the loss was not great.
+
+Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a
+miserable river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of the
+Sobat. It is very broad at the mouth, it is true, but so shallow that
+our vessel with difficulty was able to come up it. It has all
+the appearance of a mountain stream, subject to great periodical
+fluctuations. I was never more disappointed that with this river; if the
+White river was cut off from it, its waters would all be absorbed before
+they could reach Lower Egypt.
+
+The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the Blue
+river than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a mountain
+stream, which floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry in the dry
+season.
+
+I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White river which
+issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the true or parent Nile;
+for in every instance of its branching, it carried the palm with it in
+the distinctest manner, viewed, as all the streams were by me, in
+the dry season, which is the best time for estimating their relative
+perennial values.
+
+Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at Gondokoro, has
+also come home; and he, judging from my account of the way in which
+we got ahead of the flooding of the Nile between the Karuma Falls and
+Gondokoro, is of opinion that the Little Luta Nzige must be a great
+backwater to the Nile, which the waters of the Nile must have been
+occupied in filling during my residence in Madi; and then about the
+same time that I set out from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been
+surcharged with water, the surplus began its march northwards just about
+the time when we started in the same direction. For myself, I believe
+in this opinion, as he no sooner asked me how I could account for the
+phenomenon I have already mentioned of the river appearing to decrease
+in bulk as we descended it, than I instinctively advanced his own
+theory. Moreover, the same hypothesis will answer for the sluggish
+flooding of the Nile down to Egypt.
+
+I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be
+interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose services
+I had no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far from their own
+country, were disposed of. At Cairo, where we put up in Shepherd's
+Hotel, I had the whole of them photographed, and indulged them at the
+public concerts, tableaux vivants, etc. By invitation, we called on the
+Viceroy at his Rhoda Island palace, and were much gratified with the
+reception; for, after hearing all our stories with marked intelligence,
+he most graciously offered to assist me in any other undertaking which
+would assist to open up and develop the interior of Africa.
+
+I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him three
+photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the four women,
+to give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and Zanzibar, by which
+they might be recognised. I also gave them increased wages, equal to
+three years' pay each, by orders on Zanzibar, which was one in addition
+to their time of service; an order for a grand "freeman's garden," to
+be purchased for them at Zanzibar; and an order that each one should
+receive ten dollars dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife.
+
+With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our Consul,
+Mr Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and the Seychelles to
+Zanzibar.
+
+Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed
+the Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain Anson,
+Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them and made great
+lions of them. A subscription was raised to give them a purse of money;
+they were treated with tickets to the "circus," and sent back to the
+Seychelles, whence they were transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and
+taken in charge by our lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who
+appears to have taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered
+to go with me again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west,
+through the fertile zone.
+
+
+
+
+Footnotes:
+
+[Footnote 1: The equator was crossed on the 8th February 1862.]
+
+[Footnote 2: The Wahuma are treated of in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 3: The list of my fauna collection will be found in an early
+Number of the "Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London."]
+
+[Footnote 4: Captain Burton, on receiving his gold medal at the hands of
+Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said, "You have alluded, sir, to the success
+of the last expedition. Justice compels me to state the circumstances
+under which it attained that success. To Captain Speke are due those
+geographical results to which you have alluded in such flattering terms.
+Whilst I undertook the history and ethnography, the languages, and the
+peculiarity of the people, to Captain Speke fell the arduous task of
+delineating an exact topography, and of laying down our positions by
+astronomical observations--a labour to which, at times, even the
+undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."]
+
+[Footnote 5: Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.]
+
+[Footnote 6: It was such an attack as I had on my former journey; but
+while mine ceased to trouble me after the first year, his kept recurring
+every fortnight until the journey ended.]
+
+[Footnote 7: It may be as well to remark here, that the figures both in
+latitude and longitude, representing the position of Kaze, computed by
+Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in Blackwood's Magazine, computed
+by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map, computed by Captain George.
+This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at any rate, the practical
+differences are so trifling that it would require a microscope to detect
+them on the map.]
+
+[Footnote 8: The Jub is the largest river known to the Zanzibar Arabs.
+It debouches on the east coast north of Zanzibar, close under the
+equator.]
+
+[Footnote 9: The two first gold watches were given away at Zanzibar.]
+
+[Footnote 10: If one asked the name of a tree, and it happened to be the
+kind from which this cloth was made, the answer would be "mbugu." If,
+again, the question was as to the bark, the same answer; and the same if
+one saw the shirt, and asked what it was. Hence I could not determine
+whether the word had been originally the name of the tree, of its bark,
+or of the article made from the bark, though I am inclined to think it
+is the bark, as there are many varieties of these trees, which, being
+besides being called mbugu, had their own particular names.]
+
+[Footnote 11: Rumanika's present.--One block-tin box, one Raglan coat,
+five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils copper wire, a hundred large
+blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three bundles minute
+beads--pink, blue, and white.]
+
+[Footnote 12: Nnanaji's present.--One deole or gold-embroidered silk,
+two coils copper wire, fifty large blue egg-beads, five bundles best
+variegated beads, three bundles minute beads--pink, blue and white.]
+
+[Footnote 13: Since named by Dr P. L. Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii."
+These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from specimens brought home by
+myself.]
+
+[Footnote 14: Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.; chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2 ft.
+7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8 in.]
+
+[Footnote 15: I.e. Dead Locust Lake,--Luta, dead--Nzige, locust.]
+
+[Footnote 16: In 'Blackwood's Magazine' for August 1859.]
+
+[Footnote 17: See p. 211.]
+
+[Footnote 18: 1 block-tin box, 4 rich silk cloths, 1 rifle
+(Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol, 3 rifled carbines,
+3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1 box gun-caps, 1
+telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1 set of table-knives,
+spoons, and forks.]
+
+[Footnote 19: The straight road down the Nile through Unyoro no one
+dares allude to at this time, as the two kings were always fighting.]
+
+[Footnote 20: Some say a group of forty islands compose Sese.]
+
+[Footnote 21: Named by Dr P. L. Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii. The seventh
+pen feathers are double the length of the ordinaries, the eighth double
+that of the seventh, and the ninth 20 inches long. Bombay says the same
+bird is found in Uhiyow.]
+
+[Footnote 22: It is questionable whether or not this word is a
+corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.]
+
+[Footnote 23: This obviously was an allusion to the way in which the
+first king of Uganda was countenanced by the great king of Kittara,
+according to the tradition given in Chapter IX.]
+
+[Footnote 24: 1 double rifle, 1 block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown
+do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of different-coloured minute beads, 2
+socks full of blue and white pigeon eggs, 1 Rodgers's pen-knife, 2
+books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red handkerchief, 1 bag gun-caps, 1 pair
+scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart bottle, 1 powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1
+dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1 brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8
+brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7 binders, 1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles,
+1 lucifer-box.]
+
+[Footnote 25: It will appear shortly that is was actually not more than
+two marches to the northward of Faloro.]
+
+[Footnote 26: Dr Khoblecher, the founder of the Austrian Church Mission
+Establishment of Gondokoro, ascertained that the Nile reached its lowest
+level there in the middle of January.]
+
+[Footnote 27: The Baroness Miss A. van Capellan, and Mrs and Miss
+Tinne.]
+
+[Footnote 28: See Petherick's succouring petition, addressed to the
+Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President of the Royal Geographical Society,
+in the Proceedings of that Society, date 10th June 1860.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by
+John Hanning Speke
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 3284.txt or 3284.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/2/8/3284/
+
+Produced by Laura Shaffer and J.C. Byers
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.