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diff --git a/3284-h/3284-h.htm b/3284-h/3284-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2afce6 --- /dev/null +++ b/3284-h/3284-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,19889 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Discovery of the Source Of The Nile, by John Hanning Speke + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by +John Hanning Speke + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Discovery of the Source of the Nile + +Author: John Hanning Speke + +Release Date: January 26, 2009 [EBook #3284] +Last Updated: February 6, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE *** + + + + +Produced by Laura Shaffer, J.C. Byers, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE<br /> OF THE NILE + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By John Hanning Speke + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + John Hanning Speke, born 1827. Served in the Punjab but left in 1854 to + explore Somaliland. Discovered Lake Tanganyika with Burton, and Lake + Victoria independently. Was, with Grant, the first European to cross + equatorial africa. Died 1864. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> <b>Editor's Note</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_INTR"> Introduction. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> Geography </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> Atmospheric Agents </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> Flora </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> Fauna </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> The Wanguana or Freed Men </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> <b>Journal of the Discovery of The Source of + the Nile</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter 1. </a> London to Zanzibar, + 1859 <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. </a> Uzaramo + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. </a> Usagara + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. </a> Ugogo, + and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0005"> + Chapter V. </a> Unyamuezi <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> + Chapter VI. </a> Uzinza <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007"> + Chapter VII. </a> Usui <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> + Chapter VIII. </a> Karague <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> + Chapter IX. </a> History of the Wahuma <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. </a> Karague and Uganda + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. </a> Palace, + Uganda <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. </a> Palace, + Uganda—Continued <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. + </a> Palace, Uganda—Continued <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. </a> Palace, Uganda—Continued + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. </a> March + Down the Northern Slopes of Africa <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016"> + Chapter XVI. </a> Bahr El Abiad <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. </a> Unyoro <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII. </a> Unyoro—Continued + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter XIX. </a> The + March to Madi <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter XX. </a> Madi + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_CONC"> Conclusion </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> Footnotes </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Editor's Note + </h2> + <p> + John Hanning Speke was a man of thirty-six, when his Nile Journal + appeared. He had entered the army in 1844, and completed ten years of + service in India, serving through the Punjab Campaign. Already he had + conceived the idea of exploring Africa, before his ten years were up, and + on their conclusion he was appointed a member of the expedition preparing + to start under Sir Richard (then Lieutenant Burton) for the Somali + country. He was wounded by the Somalis, and returned to England on sick + leave; the Crimean War then breaking out, be served through it, and later, + December 1856, joined another expedition under Burton. Then it was that + the possibility of the source of the Nile being traced to one of the + inland lakes seems to have struck him. + </p> + <p> + Burton's illness prevented him accompanying Speke on the latter's visit to + the lake now known as Victoria Nyanza. During this expedition Speke + reached the most southerly point of the lake, and gave it its present + name. Speke arrived back in England in the spring of 1859, Burton being + left behind on account of his illness. The relations between the two had + become strained, and this was accentuated by Speke's hast to publish the + account of his explorations. He was given the command of another + expedition which left England in April 1860, in company with Captain James + Augustus Grant, to ascertain still further if the Victoria Nyanza were + indeed the source of the Nile. He met Sir Samuel Baker, to whom he gave + valuable assistance, and who with his clue discovered the third lake, + Albert Nyanza. + </p> + <p> + Speke telegraphed early in 1863, that the Nile source was traced. + Returning to England that year he met with an ovation, and addressed a + special meeting of the Geographical Society, and the same year, 1863, + published his "Journal of the Discovery of the Nile." Opposed in his + statements by Burton and M'Queen ("The Nile Basin, 1864"), it was arranged + that he and Burton should meet for a debate, when on the very day fixed, + Speke accidentally shot himself while out partridge-shooting. + </p> + <p> + Sir R. Murchison, addressing the Royal Geographical Society that year, + speaks of Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile as solving the + "problem of all ages." + </p> + <p> + Only two books were published by Speke—the "Journal" of 1863, which + follows, and its sequel—"What Led to the Discovery of the Source of + the Nile," which appeared in the year of his death, 1864. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Introduction. + </h2> + <p> + In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe all that appeared to + me most important and interesting among the events and the scenes that + came under my notice during my sojourn in the interior of Africa. If my + account should not entirely harmonise with preconceived notions as to + primitive races, I cannot help it. I profess accurately to describe native + Africa—Africa in those places where it has not received the + slightest impulse, whether for good or evil, from European civilisation. + If the picture be a dark one, we should, when contemplating these sons of + Noah, try and carry our mind back to that time when our poor elder brother + Ham was cursed by his father, and condemned to be the slave of both Shem + and Japheth; for as they were then, so they appear to be now—a + strikingly existing proof of the Holy Scriptures. But one thing must be + remembered: Whilst the people of Europe and Asia were blessed by communion + with God through the medium of His prophets, and obtained divine laws to + regulate their ways and keep them in mind of Him who made them, the + Africans were excluded from this dispensation, and consequently have no + idea of an overruling Providence or a future state; they therefore trust + to luck and to charms, and think only of self-preservation in this world. + Whatever, then, may be said against them for being too avaricious or too + destitute of fellow-feeling, should rather reflect on ourselves, who have + been so much better favoured, yet have neglected to teach them, than on + those who, whilst they are sinning, know not what they are doing. To say a + negro is incapable of instruction, is a mere absurdity; for those few boys + who have been educated in our schools have proved themselves even quicker + than our own at learning; whilst, amongst themselves, the deepness of + their cunning and their power of repartee are quite surprising, and are + especially shown in their proficiency for telling lies most appropriately + in preference to truth, and with an off-handed manner that makes them most + amusing. + </p> + <p> + With these remarks, I now give, as an appropriate introduction to my + narrative—(1.) An account of the general geographical features of + the countries we are about to travel in, leaving the details to be treated + under each as we successively pass through them; (2.) A general view of + the atmospheric agents which wear down and so continually help to reduce + the continent, yet at the same time assist to clothe it with vegetation; + (3.) A general view of the Flora; and, lastly, that which consumes it, + (4.) Its Fauna; ending with a few special remarks on the Wanguana, or men + freed from slavery. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Geography + </h2> + <p> + The continent of Africa is something like a dish turned upside down, + having a high and flat central plateau, with a higher rim of hills + surrounding it; from below which, exterially, it suddenly slopes down to + the flat strip of land bordering on the sea. A dish, however, is generally + uniform in shape—Africa is not. For instance, we find in its centre + a high group of hills surrounding the head of the Tanganyika Lake, + composed chiefly of argillaceous sandstones which I suppose to be the + Lunae Montes of Ptolemy, or the Soma Giri of the ancient Hindus. Further, + instead of a rim at the northern end, the country shelves down from the + equator to the Mediterranean Sea; and on the general surface of the + interior plateau there are basins full of water (lakes), from which, when + rains overflow them, rivers are formed, that, cutting through the flanking + rim of hills, find their way to the sea. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Atmospheric Agents + </h2> + <p> + On the east coast, near Zanzibar, we find the rains following the track of + the sun, and lasting not more than forty days on any part that the sun + crosses; whilst the winds blow from south-west or north-east, towards the + regions heated by its vertical position. But in the centre of the + continent, within 5° of the equator, we find the rains much more lasting. + For instance, at 5° south latitude, for the whole six months that the sun + is in the south, rain continues to fall, and I have heard that the same + takes place at 5° north; whilst on the equator, or rather a trifle to + northward of it, it rains more or less the whole year round, but most at + the equinoxes, as shown in the table on the following page. The winds, + though somewhat less steady, are still very determinable. With an easterly + tending, they deflect north and south, following the sun. In the drier + season they blow so cold that the sun's heat is not distressing; and in + consequence of this, and the average altitude of the plateau, which is + 3000 feet, the general temperature of the atmosphere is very pleasant, as + I found from experience; for I walked every inch of the journey dressed in + thick woollen clothes, and slept every night between blankets. + </p> + <p> + The Number of Days on which Rain fell (more or less) during the March of + the East African Expedition from Zanzibar to Gondokoro. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1860 Days on 1861 Days on 1862 Days on + which which which + rain fell rain fell rain fell + + *** *** January 19 January 14 + *** *** February 21 February <a href="#linknote-1" + name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1">1</a> 12 + *** *** March 17 March 21 + *** *** April 17 April 27 + *** *** May 3 May 26 + *** *** June 0 June 20 + *** *** July 1 July 22 + *** *** August 1 August 20 + *** *** September 9 September 18 + October 2 October 11 October 27 + November 0 November 17 November 20 + December 20 December 16 December 6 +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Flora + </h2> + <p> + From what has been said regarding the condition of the atmosphere, it may + readily be imagined that Africa, in those parts, after all, is not so bad + as people supposed it was; for, when so much moisture falls under a + vertical sun, all vegetable life must grow up almost spontaneously. It + does so on the equator in the most profuse manner; but down at 5° south, + where there are six months' drought, the case is somewhat different; and + the people would be subject to famines if they did not take advantage of + their rainy season to lay in sufficient stores for the fine: and here we + touch on the misfortune of the country; for the negro is too lazy to do so + effectively, owing chiefly, as we shall see presently, to want of a strong + protecting government. One substantial fact has been established, owing to + our having crossed over ten degrees of latitude in the centre of the + continent, or from 5° south to 5° north latitude, which is this: There + exists a regular gradation of fertility, surprisingly rich on the equator, + but decreasing systematically from it; and the reason why this great + fertile zone is confined to the equatorial regions, is the same as that + which has constituted it the great focus of water or lake supply, whence + issue the principal rivers of Africa. On the equator lie the rainbearing + influences of the Mountains of the Moon. The equatorial line is, in fact, + the centre of atmospheric motion. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Fauna + </h2> + <p> + In treating of this branch of natural history, we will first take man—the + true curly-head, flab-nosed, pouch-mouthed negro—not the Wahuma. <a + href="#linknote-2" name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a> + They are well distributed all over these latitudes, but are not found + anywhere in dense communities. Their system of government is mostly of the + patriarchal character. Some are pastorals, but most are agriculturalists; + and this difference, I believe, originates solely from want of a stable + government, to enable them to reap what they produce; for where the negro + can save his cattle, which is his wealth, by eating grain, he will do it. + In the same way as all animals, whether wild or tame, require a guide to + lead their flocks, so do the negroes find it necessary to have chiefs over + their villages and little communities, who are their referees on all + domestic or political questions. They have both their district and their + village chiefs, but, in the countries we are about to travel over, no + kings such as we shall find that the Wahuma have. The district chief is + absolute, though guided in great measure by his "grey-beards," who + constantly attend his residence, and talk over their affairs of state. + These commonly concern petty internal matters; for they are too selfish + and too narrow-minded to care for anything but their own private concerns. + The grey-beards circulate the orders of the chief amongst the village + chiefs, who are fined when they do not comply with them; and hence all + orders are pretty well obeyed. + </p> + <p> + One thing only tends to disorganise the country, and that is war, caused, + in the first instance, by polygamy, producing a family of half-brothers, + who, all aspiring to succeed their father, fight continually with one + another, and make their chief aim slaves and cattle; whilst, in the second + instance, slavery keeps them ever fighting and reducing their numbers. The + government revenues are levied, on a very small scale, exclusively for the + benefit of the chief and his grey-beards. For instance, as a sort of + land-tax, the chief has a right to drink free from the village brews of + pombe (a kind of beer made by fermentation), which are made in turn by all + the villagers successively. In case of an elephant being killed, he also + takes a share of the meat, and claims one of its tusks as his right; + further, all leopard, lion, or zebra skins are his by right. On + merchandise brought into the country by traders, he has a general right to + make any exactions he thinks he has the power of enforcing, without any + regard to justice or a regulated tariff. This right is called Hongo, in + the plural Mahongo. Another source of revenue is in the effects of all + people condemned for sorcery, who are either burnt, or speared and cast + into the jungles, and their property seized by the grey-beards for their + chief. + </p> + <p> + As to punishments, all irreclaimable thieves or murderers are killed and + disposed of in the same manner as these sorcerers; whilst on minor thieves + a penalty equivalent to the extent of the depredation is levied. Illicit + intercourse being treated as petty larceny, a value is fixed according to + the value of the woman—for it must be remembered all women are + property. Indeed, marriages are considered a very profitable speculation, + the girl's hand being in the father's gift, who marries her to any one who + will pay her price. This arrangement, however, is not considered a simple + matter of buying and selling, but delights in the high-sounding title of + "dowry." Slaves, cows, goats, fowls, brass wire, or beads, are the usual + things given for this species of dowry. The marriage-knot, however, is + never irretrievably tied; for if the wife finds a defect in her husband, + she can return to her father by refunding the dowry; whilst the husband, + if he objects to his wife, can claim half-price on sending her home again, + which is considered fair, because as a second-hand article her future + value would be diminished by half. By this system, it must be observed, + polygamy is a source of wealth, since a man's means are measured by the + number of his progeny; but it has other advantages besides the dowry, for + the women work more than the men do, both in and out of doors; and, in + addition to the females, the sons work for the household until they marry, + and in after life take care of their parents in the same way as in the + first instance the parents took care of them. + </p> + <p> + Twins are usually hailed with delight, because they swell the power of the + family, though in some instances they are put to death. Albinos are + valued, though their colour is not admired. If death occurs in a natural + manner, the body is usually either buried in the village or outside. A + large portion of the negro races affect nudity, despising clothing as + effeminate; but these are chiefly the more boisterous roving pastorals, + who are too lazy either to grow cotton or strip the trees of their bark. + Their young women go naked; but the mothers suspend a little tail both + before and behind. As the hair of the negro will not grow long, a barber + might be dispensed with, were it not that they delight in odd fashions, + and are therefore continually either shaving it off altogether, or else + fashioning it after the most whimsical designs. No people in the world are + so proud and headstrong as the negroes, whether they be pastoral or + agriculturalists. With them, as with the rest of the world, "familiarity + breeds contempt"; hospitality lives only one day; for though proud of a + rich or white visitor—and they implore him to stop, that they may + keep feeding their eyes on his curiosities—they seldom give more + than a cow or a goat, though professing to supply a whole camp with + provisions. + </p> + <p> + Taking the negroes as a whole, one does not find very marked or much + difference in them. Each tribe has its characteristics, it is true. For + instance, one cuts his teeth or tattoos his face in a different manner + from the others; but by the constant intermarriage with slaves, much of + this effect is lost, and it is further lost sight of owing to the + prevalence of migrations caused by wars and the division of governments. + As with the tribal marks so with their weapons; those most commonly in use + are the spear, assage, shield, bow and arrow. It is true some affect one, + some the other; but in no way do we see that the courage of tribes can be + determined by the use of any particular weapon: for the bravest use the + arrow, which is the more dreaded; while the weakest confine themselves to + the spear. Lines of traffic are the worst tracks (there are no roads in + the districts here referred to) for a traveller to go upon, not only + because the hospitality of the people has been damped by frequent + communication with travellers, but, by intercourse with the semi-civilised + merchant, their natural honour and honesty are corrupted, their cupidity + is increased, and the show of firearms ceases to frighten them. + </p> + <p> + Of paramount consideration is the power held by the magician (Mganga), who + rules the minds of the kings as did the old popes of Europe. They, indeed, + are a curse to the traveller; for if it suits their inclinations to keep + him out of the country, they have merely to prognosticate all sorts of + calamities—as droughts, famines, or wars—in the event of his + setting eyes on the soil, and the chiefs, people, and all, would believe + them; for, as may be imagined, with men unenlightened, supernatural and + imaginary predictions work with more force than substantial reasons. Their + implement of divination, simple as it may appear, is a cow's or antelope's + horn (Uganga), which they stuff with magic powder, also called Uganga. + Stuck into the ground in front of the village, it is supposed to have + sufficient power to ward off the attacks of an enemy. + </p> + <p> + By simply holding it in the hand, the magician pretends he can discover + anything that has been stolen or lost; and instances have been told of its + dragging four men after it with irresistible impetus up to a thief, when + it be-laboured the culprit and drove him out of his senses. So imbued are + the natives' minds with belief in the power of charms, that they pay the + magician for sticks, stones, or mud, which he has doctored for them. They + believe certain flowers held in the hand will conduct them to anything + lost; as also that the voice of certain wild animals, birds, or beasts, + will insure them good-luck, or warn them of danger. With the utmost + complacency our sable brother builds a dwarf hut in his fields, and places + some grain on it to propitiate the evil spirit, and suffer him to reap the + fruits of his labour, and this too they call Uganga or church. + </p> + <p> + These are a few of the more innocent alternatives the poor negroes resort + to in place of a "Saviour." They have also many other and more horrible + devices. For instance, in times of tribulation, the magician, if he + ascertains a war is projected by inspecting the blood and bones of a fowl + which he has flayed for that purpose, flays a young child, and having laid + it lengthwise on a path, directs all the warriors, on proceeding to + battle, to step over his sacrifice and insure themselves victory. Another + of these extra barbarous devices takes place when a chief wishes to make + war on his neighbour by his calling in a magician to discover a propitious + time for commencing. The doctor places a large earthen vessel, half full + of water, over a fire, and over its mouth a grating of sticks, whereon he + lays a small child and a fowl side by side, and covers them over with a + second large earthen vessel, just like the first, only inverted, to keep + the steam in, when he sets fire below, cooks for a certain period of time, + and then looks to see if his victims are still living or dead—when, + should they be dead, the war must be deferred, but, otherwise commenced at + once. + </p> + <p> + These extremes, however, are not often resorted to, for the natives are + usually content with simpler means, such as flaying a goat, instead of a + child, to be walked over; while, to prevent any evil approaching their + dwellings a squashed frog, or any other such absurdity, when place on the + track, is considered a specific. + </p> + <p> + How the negro has lived so many ages without advancing, seems marvellous, + when all the countries surrounding Africa are so forward in comparison; + and judging from the progressive state of the world, one is led to suppose + that the African must soon either step out from his darkness, or be + superseded by a being superior to himself. Could a government be formed + for them like ours in India, they would be saved; but without it, I fear + there is very little chance; for at present the African neither can help + himself nor will he be helped about by others, because his country is in + such a constant state of turmoil he has too much anxiety on hand looking + out for his food to think of anything else. As his fathers ever did, so + does he. He works his wife, sells his children, enslaves all he can lay + hands upon, and, unless when fighting for the property of others, contents + himself with drinking, singing, and dancing like a baboon to drive dull + care away. A few only make cotton cloth, or work in wood, iron, copper, or + salt; their rule being to do as little as possible, and to store up + nothing beyond the necessities of the next season, lest their chiefs or + neighbours should covet and take it from them. + </p> + <p> + Slavery, I may add, is one great cause of laziness, for the masters become + too proud to work, lest they should be thought slaves themselves. In + consequence of this, the women look after the household work—such as + brewing, cooking, grinding corn, making pottery and baskets, and taking + care of the house and the children, besides helping the slaves whilst + cultivating, or even tending the cattle sometimes. + </p> + <p> + Now, descending to the inferior order of creation, I shall commence with + the domestic animals first, to show what the traveller may expect to find + for his usual support. Cows, after leaving the low lands near the coast, + are found to be plentiful everywhere, and to produce milk in small + quantities, from which butter is made. Goats are common all over Africa; + but sheep are not so plentiful, nor do they show such good breeding—being + generally lanky, with long fat tails. Fowls, much like those in India, are + abundant everywhere. A few Muscovy ducks are imported, also pigeons and + cats. Dogs, like the Indian pariah, are very plentiful, only much smaller; + and a few donkeys are found in certain localities. Now, considering this + good supply of meat, whilst all tropical plants will grow just as well in + central equatorial Africa as they do in India, it surprises the traveller + there should be any famines; yet such is too often the case, and the + negro, with these bounties within his reach, is sometimes found eating + dogs, cats, rats, porcupines, snakes, lizards, tortoises, locusts, and + white ants, or is forced to seek the seeds of wild grasses, or to pluck + wild herbs, fruits, and roots; whilst at the proper seasons they hunt the + wild elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, pigs, and antelopes; or, going out + with their arrows, have battues against the guinea-fowls and small birds. + </p> + <p> + The frequency with which collections of villages are found all over the + countries we are alluding to, leaves but very little scope for the runs of + wild animals, which are found only in dense jungles, open forests, or + praires generally speaking, where hills can protect them, and near rivers + whose marshes produce a thick growth of vegetation to conceal them from + their most dreaded enemy—man. The prowling, restless elephant, for + instance, though rarely seen, leaves indications of his nocturnal + excursions in every wilderness, by wantonly knocking down the + forest-trees. The morose rhinoceros, though less numerous, are found in + every thick jungle. So is the savage buffalo, especially delighting in + dark places, where he can wallow in the mud and slake his thirst without + much trouble; and here also we find the wild pig. + </p> + <p> + The gruff hippopotamus is as widespread as any, being found wherever there + is water to float him; whilst the shy giraffe and zebra affect all open + forests and plains where the grass is not too long; and antelopes, of + great variety in species and habits, are found wherever man will let them + alone and they can find water. The lion is, however, rarely heard—much + more seldom seen. Hyenas are numerous, and thievishly inclined. Leopards, + less common, are the terror of the villagers. Foxes are not numerous, but + frighten the black traveller by their ill-omened bark. Hares, about half + the size of English ones—there are no rabbits—are widely + spread, but not numerous; porcupines the same. Wild cats, and animals of + the ferret kind, destroy game. Monkeys of various kinds and squirrels + harbour in the trees, but are rarely seen. Tortoises and snakes, in great + variety, crawl over the ground, mostly after the rains. Rats and lizards—there + are but few mice—are very abundant, and feed both in the fields and + on the stores of the men. + </p> + <p> + The wily ostrich, bustard, and florikan affect all open places. The + guinea-fowl is the most numerous of all game-birds. Partridges come next, + but do not afford good sport; and quails are rare. Ducks and snipe appear + to love Africa less than any other country; and geese and storks are only + found where water most abounds. Vultures are uncommon; hawks and crows + much abound, as in all other countries; but little birds, of every colour + and note, are discoverable in great quantities near water and by the + villages. Huge snails and small ones, as well as fresh-water shells, are + very abundant, though the conchologist would find but little variety to + repay his labours; and insects, though innumerable, are best sought for + after the rains have set in. <a href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3" + id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Wanguana or Freed Men + </h2> + <p> + The Wa-n-guana, as their name implies, are men freed from slavery; and as + it is to these singular negroes acting as hired servants that I have been + chiefly indebted for opening this large section of Africa, a few general + remarks on their character cannot be out of place here. + </p> + <p> + Of course, having been born in Africa, and associated in childhood with + the untainted negroes, they retain all the superstitious notions of the + true aborigines, though somewhat modified, and even corrupted, by that + acquaintance with the outer world which sharpens their wits. + </p> + <p> + Most of these men were doubtless caught in wars, as may be seen every day + in Africa, made slaves of, and sold to the Arabs for a few yards of common + cloth, brass wire, or beads. They would then be taken to the Zanzibar + market, resold like horses to the highest bidder, and then kept in bondage + by their new masters, more like children of his family than anything else. + In this new position they were circumcised to make Mussulmans of them, + that their hands might be "clean" to slaughter their master's cattle, and + extend his creed; for the Arabs believe the day must come when the tenets + of Mohammed will be accepted by all men. + </p> + <p> + The slave in this new position finds himself much better off than he ever + was in his life before, with this exception, that as a slave he feels + himself much degraded in the social scale of society, and his family ties + are all cut off from him—probably his relations have all been killed + in the war in which he was captured. Still, after the first qualms have + worn off, we find him much attached to his master, who feeds him and finds + him in clothes in return for the menial services which he performs. In a + few years after capture, or when confidence has been gained by the + attachment shown by the slave, if the master is a trader in ivory, he will + intrust him with the charge of his stores, and send him all over the + interior of the continent to purchase for him both slaves and ivory; but + should the master die, according to the Mohammedan creed the slaves ought + to be freed. In Arabia this would be the case; but at Zanzibar it more + generally happens that the slave is willed to his successor. + </p> + <p> + The whole system of slaveholding by the Arabs in Africa, or rather on the + coast or at Zanzibar, is exceedingly strange; for the slaves, both in + individual physical strength and in numbers, are so superior to the Arab + foreigners, that if they chose to rebel, they might send the Arabs flying + out of the land. It happens, however, that they are spell-bound, not + knowing their strength any more than domestic animals, and they even seem + to consider that they would be dishonest if they ran away after being + purchased, and so brought pecuniary loss on their owners. + </p> + <p> + There are many positions into which the slave may get by the course of + events, and I shall give here, as a specimen, the ordinary case of one who + has been freed by the death of his master, that master having been a + trader in ivory and slaves in the interior. In such a case, the slave so + freed in all probability would commence life afresh by taking service as a + porter with other merchants, and in the end would raise sufficient capital + to commence trading himself—first in slaves, because they are the + most easily got, and then in ivory. All his accumulations would then go to + the Zanzibar market, or else to slavers looking out off the coast. Slavery + begets slavery. To catch slaves is the first thought of every chief in the + interior; hence fights and slavery impoverish the land, and that is the + reason both why Africa does not improve, and why we find men of all tribes + and tongues on the coast. The ethnologist need only go to Zanzibar to + become acquainted with all the different tribes to the centre of the + continent on that side, or to Congo to find the other half south of the + equator there. + </p> + <p> + Some few freed slaves take service in vessels, of which they are + especially fond; but most return to Africa to trade in slaves and ivory. + All slaves learn the coast language, called at Zanzibar Kisuahili; and + therefore the traveller, if judicious in his selections, could find there + interpreters to carry him throughout the eastern half of South Africa. To + the north of the equator the system of language entirely changes. + </p> + <p> + Laziness is inherent in these men, for which reason, although extremely + powerful, they will not work unless compelled to do so. Having no God, in + the Christian sense of the term, to fear or worship, they have no love for + truth, honour, or honesty. Controlled by no government, nor yet by home + ties, they have no reason to think of or look to the future. Any venture + attracts them when hard-up for food; and the more roving it is, the better + they like it. The life of the sailor is most particularly attractive to + the freed slave; for he thinks, in his conceit, that he is on an equality + with all men when once on the muster-rolls, and then he calls all his + fellow-Africans "savages." Still the African's peculiarity sticks to him: + he has gained no permanent good. The association of white men and the + glitter of money merely dazzle him. He apes like a monkey the jolly Jack + Tar, and spends his wages accordingly. If chance brings him back again to + Zanzibar, he calls his old Arab master his father, and goes into slavery + with as much zest as ever. + </p> + <p> + I have spoken of these freed men as if they had no religion. This is + practically true, though theoretically not so; for the Arabs, on + circumcising them, teach them to repeat the words Allah and Mohammed, and + perhaps a few others; but not one in ten knows what a soul means, nor do + they expect to meet with either reward or punishment in the next world, + though they are taught to regard animals as clean and unclean, and some go + through the form of a pilgrimage to Mecca. Indeed the whole of their + spiritual education goes into oaths and ejaculations—Allah and + Mohammed being as common in their mouths as damn and blast are with our + soldiers and sailors. The long and short of this story is, that the freed + men generally turn out a loose, roving, reckless set of beings, + quick-witted as the Yankee, from the simple fact that they imagine all + political matters affect them, and therefore they must have a word in + every debate. Nevertheless they are seldom wise; and lying being more + familiar to their constitution than truth-saying, they are for ever + concocting dodges with the view, which they glory in of successfully + cheating people. Sometimes they will show great kindness, even bravery + amounting to heroism, and proportionate affection; at another time, + without any cause, they will desert and be treacherous to their sworn + friends in the most dastardly manner. Whatever the freak of the moment is, + that they adopt in the most thoughtless manner, even though they may have + calculated on advantages beforehand in the opposite direction. In fact, no + one can rely upon them even for a moment. Dog wit, or any silly remarks, + will set them giggling. Any toy will amuse them. Highly conceited of their + personal appearance, they are for ever cutting their hair in different + fashions, to surprise a friend; or if a rag be thrown away, they will all + in turn fight for it to bind on their heads, then on their loins or + spears, peacocking about with it before their admiring comrades. Even + strange feathers or skins are treated by them in the same way. + </p> + <p> + Should one happen to have anything specially to communicate to his master + in camp, he will enter giggling, sidle up to the pole of a hut, commence + scratching his back with it, then stretch and yawn, and gradually, in + bursts of loud laughter, slip down to the ground on his stern, when he + drums with his hands on the top of a box until summoned to know what he + has at heart, when he delivers himself in a peculiar manner, laughs and + yawns again, and, saying it is time to go, walks off in the same way as he + came. At other times when he is called, he will come sucking away at the + spout of a tea-pot, or, scratching his naked arm-pits with a table-knife, + or, perhaps, polishing the plates for dinner with his dirty loin-cloth. If + sent to market to purchase a fowl, he comes back with a cock tied by the + legs to the end of a stick, swinging and squalling in the most piteous + manner. Then, arrived at the cook-shop, he throws the bird down on the + ground, holds its head between his toes, plucks the feathers to bare its + throat, and then, raising a prayer, cuts its head off. + </p> + <p> + But enough of the freed man in camp; on the march he is no better. If you + give him a gun and some ammunition to protect him in case of emergencies, + he will promise to save it, but forthwith expends it by firing it off in + the air, and demands more, else he will fear to venture amongst the + "savages." Suppose you give him a box of bottles to carry, or a desk, or + anything else that requires great care, and you caution him of its + contents, the first thing he does is to commence swinging it round and + round, or putting it topsy-turvy on the top of his head, when he will run + off at a jog-trot, singing and laughing in the most provoking manner, and + thinking no more about it than if it were an old stone; even if rain were + falling, he would put it in the best place to get wet through. Economy, + care, or forethought never enters his head; the first thing to hand is the + right thing for him; and rather then take the trouble even to look for his + own rope to tie up his bundle, he would cut off his master's tent-ropes or + steal his comrade's. His greatest delight is in the fair sex, and when he + can't get them, next comes beer, song, and a dance. + </p> + <p> + Now, this is a mild specimen of the "rowdy" negro, who has contributed + more to open Africa to enterprise and civilisation than any one else. + Possessed of a wonderful amount of loquacity, great risibility, but no + stability—a creature of impulse—a grown child, in short—at + first sight it seems wonderful how he can be trained to work; for there is + now law, no home to bind him—he could run away at any moment; and + presuming on this, he sins, expecting to be forgiven. Great forbearance, + occasionally tinctured with a little fatherly severity, is I believe, the + best dose for him; for he says to his master, in the most childish manner, + after sinning, "You ought to forgive and to forget; for are you not a big + man who should be above harbouring spite, though for a moment you may be + angry? Flog me if you like, but don't keep count against me, else I shall + run away; and what will you do then?" + </p> + <p> + The language of this people is just as strange as they are themselves. It + is based on euphony, from which cause it is very complex, the more + especially so as it requires one to be possessed of a negro's turn of mind + to appreciate the system, and unravel the secret of its euphonic concord. + A Kisuahili grammar, written by Dr. Krapf, will exemplify what I mean. + There is one peculiarity, however, to which I would direct the attention + of the reader most particularly, which is, that Wa prefixed to the + essential word of a country, means men or people; M prefixed, means man or + individual; U, in the same way, means place or locality; and Ki prefixed + indicates the language. Example:—Wagogo, is the people of Gogo; + Mgogo, is a Gogo man; Ugogo, is the country of Gogo; and Kigogo, the + language of Gogo. + </p> + <p> + The only direction here necessary as regards pronunciation of native words + refers to the u, which represents a sound corresponding to that of the oo + in woo. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + Journal of the Discovery<br />of The Source of the Nile + </h1> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter 1. London to Zanzibar, 1859 + </h2> + <p> + The design—The Preparations—Departure—The Cape—The + Zulu Kafirs—Turtle-Turning—Capture of a Slaver—Arrive at + Zanzibar—Local Politics and News Since Last Visit—Organisation + of the Expedition. + </p> + <p> + My third expedition in Africa, which was avowedly for the purpose of + establishing the truth of my assertion that the Victoria N'yanza, which I + discovered on the 30th July 1858, would eventually prove to be the source + of the Nile, may be said to have commenced on the 9th May 1859, the first + day after my return to England from my second expedition, when, at the + invitation of Sir. R. I. Murchison, I called at his house to show him my + map for the information of the Royal Geographical Society. Sir Roderick, I + need only say, at once accepted my views; and, knowing my ardent desire to + prove to the world, by actual inspection of the exit, that the Victoria + N'yanza was the source of the Nile, seized the enlightened view, that such + a discovery should not be lost to the glory of England and the Society of + which he was President; and said to me, "Speke, we must send you there + again." I was then officially directed, much against my own inclination, + to lecture at the Royal Geographical Society on the geography of Africa, + which I had, as the sole surveyor of the second expedition, laid down on + our maps. <a href="#linknote-4" name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a> + A council of the Geographical Society was now convened to ascertain what + projects I had in view for making good my discovery by connecting the lake + with the Nile, as also what assistance I should want for that purpose. + </p> + <p> + Some thought my best plan would be to go up the Nile, which seemed to them + the natural course to pursue, especially as the Nile was said, though + nobody believed it, to have been navigated by expeditions sent out by + Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, up to 3° 22' north latitude. To this I + objected, as so many had tried it and failed, from reasons which had not + transpired; and, at the same time, I said that if they would give me £5000 + down at once, I would return to Zanzibar at the end of the year, March to + Kaze again, and make the necessary investigations of the Victoria lake. + Although, in addition to the journey to the source of the river, I also + proposed spending three years in the country, looking up tributaries, + inspecting watersheds, navigating the lake, and making collections on all + branches of natural history, yet £5000 was thought by the Geographical + Society too large a sum to expect from the Government; so I accepted the + half, saying that, whatever the expedition might cost, I would make good + the rest, as, under any circumstances, I would complete what I had begun, + or die in the attempt. + </p> + <p> + My motive for deferring the journey a year was the hope that I might, in + the meanwhile, send on fifty men, carrying beads and brass wire, under + charge of Arab ivory-traders, to Karague, and fifty men more, in the same + way, to Kaze; whilst I, arriving in the best season for travelling (May, + June, or July), would be able to push on expeditiously to my depots so + formed, and thus escape the great disadvantages of travelling with a large + caravan in a country where no laws prevail to protect one against + desertions and theft. Moreover, I knew that the negroes who would have to + go with me, as long as they believed I had property in advance, would work + up to it willingly, as they would be the gainers by doing so; whilst, with + nothing before them, they would be always endeavouring to thwart my + advance, to save them from a trouble which their natural laziness would + prompt them to escape from. + </p> + <p> + This beautiful project, I am sorry to say, was doomed from the first; for + I did not get the £2500 grant of money or appointment to the command until + fully nine months had elapsed, when I wrote to Colonel Rigby, our Consul + at Zanzibar, to send on the first instalment of property towards the + interior. + </p> + <p> + As time then advanced, the Indian branch of the Government very graciously + gave me fifty artillery carbines, with belts and sword-bayonets attached, + and 20,000 rounds of ball ammunition. They lent me as many surveying + instruments as I wanted; and, through Sir George Clerk, put at my disposal + some rich presents, in gold watches, for the chief Arabs who had so + generously assisted us in the last expedition. Captain Grant, hearing that + I was bound on this journey, being an old friend and brother sportsman in + India, asked me to take him with me, and his appointment was settled by + Colonel Sykes, then chairman of a committee of the Royal Geographical + Society, who said it would only be "a matter of charity" to allow me a + companion. + </p> + <p> + Much at the same time, Mr Petherick, an ivory merchant, who had spent many + years on the Nile, arrived in England, and gratuitously offered, as it + would not interfere with his trade, to place boats at Gondokoro, and send + a party of men up the White River to collect ivory in the meanwhile, and + eventually to assist me in coming down. Mr Petherick, I may add, showed + great zeal for geographical exploits, so, as I could not get money enough + to do all that I wished to accomplish myself, I drew out a project for him + to ascend the stream now known as the Usua river (reported to be the + larger branch of the Nile), and, if possible, ascertain what connection it + had with my lake. This being agreed to, I did my best, through the medium + of Earl de Grey (then President of the Royal Geographical Society), to + advance him money to carry out this desirable object. + </p> + <p> + The last difficulty I had now before me was to obtain a passage to + Zanzibar. The Indian Government had promised me a vessel of war to convey + me from Aden to Zanzibar, provided it did not interfere with the public + interests. This doubtful proviso induced me to apply to Captain Playfair, + Assistant-Political at Aden, to know what Government vessel would be + available; and should there be none, to get for me a passage by some + American trader. The China war, he assured me, had taken up all the + Government vessels, and there appeared no hope left for me that season, as + the last American trader was just then leaving for Zanzibar. In this + dilemma it appeared that I must inevitably lose the travelling season, and + come in for the droughts and famines. The tide, however, turned in my + favour a little; for I obtained, by permission of the Admiralty, a passage + in the British screw steam-frigate Forte, under orders to convey Admiral + Sir H. Keppel to his command at the Cape; and Sir Charles Wood most + obligingly made a request that I should be forwarded thence to Zanzibar in + one of our slaver-hunting cruisers by the earliest opportunity. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th April, Captain Grant and I embarked on board the new + steam-frigate Forte, commanded by Captain E. W. Turnour, at Portsmouth; + and after a long voyage, touching at Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, we + arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on the 4th July. Here Sir George Grey, + the Governor of the colony, who took a warm and enlightened interest in + the cause of the expedition, invited both Grant and myself to reside at + his house. Sir George had been an old explorer himself—was once + wounded by savages in Australia, much in the same manner as I had been in + the Somali country—and, with a spirit of sympathy, he called me his + son, and said he hoped I would succeed. Then, thinking how best he could + serve me, he induced the Cape Parliament to advance to the expedition a + sum of £300, for the purpose of buying baggage-mules; and induced + Lieut.-General Wynyard, the Commander-in-Chief, to detach ten volunteers + from the Cape Mounted Rifle Corps to accompany me. When this addition was + made to my force, of twelve mules and ten Hottentots, the Admiral of the + station placed the screw steam-corvette Brisk at my disposal, and we all + sailed for Zanzibar on the 16th July, under the command of Captain A. F. + de Horsey—the Admiral himself accompanying us, on one of his annual + inspections to visit the east coast of Africa and the Mauritius. In five + days more we touched at East London, and, thence proceeding north, made a + short stay at Delagoa Bay, where I first became acquainted with the Zulu + Kafirs, a naked set of negroes, whose national costume principally + consists in having their hair trussed up like a hoop on the top of the + head, and an appendage like a thimble, to which they attach a mysterious + importance. They wear additional ornaments, charms, &c., of birds' + claws, hoofs and horns of wild animals tied on with strings, and sometimes + an article like a kilt, made of loose strips of skin, or the entire skins + of vermin strung close together. These things I have merely noticed in + passing, because I shall hereafter have occasion to allude to a migratory + people, the Watuta, who dressing much in the same manner, extend from Lake + N'yassa to Uzinza, and may originally have been a part of this same Kafir + race, who are themselves supposed to have migrated from the regions at + present occupied by the Gallas. Next day (the 28th) we went on to Europa, + a small island of coralline, covered with salsolacious shrubs, and + tenanted only by sea-birds, owls, finches, rats, and turtles. Of the last + we succeeded in turning three, the average weight of each being 360 lb., + and we took large numbers of their eggs. + </p> + <p> + We then went to Mozambique, and visited the Portuguese Governor, John + Travers de Almeida, who showed considerable interest in the prospects of + the expedition, and regretted that, as it cost so much money to visit the + interior from that place, his officers were unable to go there. One + experimental trip only had been accomplished by Mr Soares, who was forced + to pay the Makua chiefs 120 dollars footing, to reach a small hill in view + of the sea, about twenty-five miles off. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Mozambique on the 9th August, bound for Johanna, we came the next + day, at 11.30 A.M., in sight of a slaver, ship-rigged, bearing on us full + sail, but so distant from us that her mast-tops were only just visible. As + quick as ourselves, she saw who we were and tried to escape by retreating. + This manoeuvre left no doubt what she was, and the Brisk, all full of + excitement, gave chase at full speed, and in four hours more drew abreast + of her. A great commotion ensued on board the slaver. The sea-pirates + threw overboard their colours, bags, and numerous boxes, but would not + heave-to, although repeatedly challenged, until a gun was fired across her + bows. Our boats were then lowered, and in a few minutes more the "prize" + was taken, by her crew being exchanged for some of our men, and we learnt + all about her from accurate reports furnished by Mr Frere, the Cape Slave + Commissioner. Cleared from Havannah as "the Sunny South," professing to be + destined for Hong-Kong, she changed her name to the Manuela, and came + slave-hunting in these regions. The slaver's crew consisted of a captain, + doctor, and several sailors, mostly Spaniards. The vessel was well stored + with provisions and medicines; but there was scarcely enough room in her, + though she was said to be only half freighted, for the 544 creatures they + were transporting. The next morning, as we entered Pamoni harbour by an + intricate approach to the rich little island hill Johanna, the slaver, as + she followed us, stranded, and for a while caused considerable alarm to + everybody but her late captain. He thought his luck very bad, after + escaping so often, to be taken thus; for his vessel's power of sailing + were so good, that, had she had the wind in her favour, the Brisk, even + with the assistance of steam, could not have come up with her. On going on + board her, I found the slaves to be mostly Wahiyow. A few of them were old + women, but all the rest children. They had been captured during wars in + their own country, and sold to Arabs, who brought them to the coast, and + kept them half-starved until the slaver arrived, when they were shipped in + dhows and brought off to the slaver, where, for nearly a week, whilst the + bargains were in progress, they were kept entirely without food. It was no + wonder then, every man of the Brisk who first looked upon them did so with + a feeling of loathing and abhorrence of such a trade. All over the vessel, + but more especially below, old women, stark naked, were dying in the most + disgusting "ferret-box" atmosphere; while all those who had sufficient + strength were pulling up the hatches, and tearing at the salt fish they + found below, like dogs in a kennel. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th the Manuela was sent to the Mauritius, and we, after passing + the Comoro Islands, arrived at our destination, Zanzibar—called + Lunguja by the aborigines, the Wakhadim—and Unguja by the present + Wasuahili. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th, after the anchor was cast, without a moment's delay I went + off to the British Consulate to see my old friend Colonel Rigby. He was + delighted to see us; and, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared + rooms for our reception, that both Captain Grant and myself might enjoy + his hospitality until arrangements could be made for our final start into + the interior. The town, which I had left in so different a condition + sixteen months before, was in a state of great tranquillity, brought about + by the energy of the Bombay Government on the Muscat side, and Colonel + Rigby's exertions on this side, in preventing an insurrection Sultan + Majid's brothers had created with a view of usurping his government. + </p> + <p> + The news of the place was as follows:—In addition to the formerly + constituted consulates—English, French, and American—a fourth + one, representing Hamburg, had been created. Dr Roscher, who during my + absence had made a successful journey to the N'yinyezi N'yassa, or Star + Lake, was afterwards murdered by some natives in Uhiyow; and + Lieutentant-Colonel Baron van der Decken, another enterprising German, was + organising an expedition with a view to search for the relics of his + countryman, and, if possible, complete the project poor Roscher had + commenced. + </p> + <p> + Slavery had received a severe blow by the sharp measures Colonel Rigby had + taken in giving tickets of emancipation to all those slaves whom our + Indian subjects the Banyans had been secretly keeping, and by fining the + masters and giving the money to the men to set them up in life. The + interior of the continent had been greatly disturbed, owing to constant + war between the natives and Arab ivory merchants. Mguru Mfupi (or + Short-legs), the chief of Khoko in Ugogo, for instance, had been shot, and + Manua Sera (the Tippler), who succeeded the old Sultan Fundi Kira, of + Unyanyembe, on his death, shortly after the late expedition left Kaze, was + out in the field fighting the Arabs. Recent letters from the Arabs in the + interior, however, gave hopes of peace being shortly restored. Finally, in + compliance with my request—and this was the most important item of + news to myself—Colonel Rigby had sent on, thirteen days previously, + fifty-six loads of cloth and beads, in charge of two of Ramji's men, + consigned to Musa at Kaze. + </p> + <p> + To call on the Sultan, of course, was our first duty. He received us in + his usually affable manner; made many trite remarks concerning our plans; + was surprised, if my only object in view was to see the great river + running out of the lake, that I did not go by the more direct route across + the Masai country and Usoga; and then, finding I wished to see Karague, as + well as to settle many other great points of interest, he offered to + assist me with all the means in his power. + </p> + <p> + The Hottentots, the mules, and the baggage having been landed, our + preparatory work began in earnest. It consisted in proving the sextants; + rating the watches; examining the compasses and boiling thermometers; + making tents and packsaddles; ordering supplies of beads, cloth, and brass + wire; and collecting servants and porters. + </p> + <p> + Sheikh Said bin Salem, our late Cafila Bashi, or caravan captain, was + appointed to that post again, as he wished to prove his character for + honour and honesty; and it now transpired that he had been ordered not to + go with me when I discovered the Victoria N'yanza. Bombay and his brother + Mabruki were bound to me of old, and the first to greet me on my arrival + here; while my old friends the Beluchs begged me to take them again. The + Hottentots, however, had usurped their place. I was afterwards sorry for + this, though, if I ever travel again, I shall trust to none but natives, + as the climate of Africa is too trying to foreigners. Colonel Rigby, who + had at heart as much as anybody the success of the expedition, materially + assisted me in accomplishing my object—that men accustomed to + discipline and a knowledge of English honour and honesty should be + enlisted, to give confidence to the rest of the men; and he allowed me to + select from his boat's crew any men I could find who had served as + men-of-war, and had seen active service in India. + </p> + <p> + For this purpose my factotum, Bombay, prevailed on Baraka, Frij, and Rahan—all + of them old sailors, who, like himself, knew Hindustani—to go with + me. With this nucleus to start with, I gave orders that they should look + out for as many Wanguana (freed men—i.e., men emancipated from + slavery) as they could enlist, to carry loads, or do any other work + required of them, and to follow men in Africa wherever I wished, until our + arrival in Egypt, when I would send them back to Zanzibar. Each was to + receive one year's pay in advance, and the remainder when their work was + completed. + </p> + <p> + While this enlistment was going on here, Ladha Damji, the customs' master, + was appointed to collect a hundred pagazis (Wanyamuezi porters) to carry + each a load of cloth, beads, or brass wire to Kaze, as they do for the + ivory merchants. Meanwhile, at the invitation of the Admiral, and to show + him some sport in hippopotamus-shooting, I went with him in a dhow over to + Kusiki, near which there is a tidal lagoon, which at high tide is filled + with water, but at low water exposes sand islets covered with mangrove + shrub. In these islets we sought for the animals, knowing they were keen + to lie wallowing in the mire, and we bagged two. On my return to Zanzibar, + the Brisk sailed for the Mauritius, but fortune sent Grant and myself on a + different cruise. Sultan Majid, having heard that a slaver was lying at + Pangani, and being anxious to show his good faith with the English, begged + me to take command of one his vessels of war and run it down. Accordingly, + embarking at noon, as soon as the vessel could be got ready, we lay-to + that night at Tombat, with a view of surprising the slaver next morning; + but next day, on our arrival at Pangani, we heard that she had merely put + in to provision there three days before, and had let immediately + afterwards. As I had come so far, I thought we might go ashore and look at + the town, which was found greatly improved since I last saw it, by the + addition of several coralline houses and a dockyard. The natives were + building a dhow with Lindi and Madagascar timber. On going ashore, I might + add, we were stranded on the sands, and, coming off again, nearly swamped + by the increasing surf on the bar of the river; but this was a trifle; all + we thought of was to return to Zanzibar, and hurry on our preparations + there. This, however, was not so easy: the sea current was running north, + and the wind was too light to propel our vessel against it; so, after + trying in vain to make way in her, Grant and I, leaving her to follow, + took to a boat, after giving the captain, who said we would get drowned, a + letter, to say we left the vessel against his advice. + </p> + <p> + We had a brave crew of young negroes to pull us; but, pull as they would, + the current was so strong that we feared, if we persisted, we should be + drawn into the broad Indian Ocean; so, changing our line, we bore into the + little coralline island, Maziwa, where, after riding over some ugly coral + surfs, we put in for the night. There we found, to our relief, some + fisherman, who gave us fish for our dinner, and directions how to proceed. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, before daylight, we trusted to the boat and our good luck. + After passing, without landmarks to guide us, by an intricate channel, + through foaming surfs, we arrived at Zanzibar in the night, and found that + the vessel had got in before us. + </p> + <p> + Colonel Rigby now gave me a most interesting paper, with a map attached to + it, about the Nile and the Mountains of the Moon. It was written by + Lieutenant Wilford, from the "Purans" of the Ancient Hindus. As it + exemplifies, to a certain extent, the supposition I formerly arrived at + concerning the Mountains of the Moon being associated with the country of + the Moon, I would fain draw the attention of the reader of my travels to + the volume of the "Asiatic Researches" in which it was published. <a + href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a> + It is remarkable that the Hindus have christened the source of the Nile + Amara, which is the name of a country at the north-east corner of the + Victoria N'yanza. This, I think, shows clearly, that the ancient Hindus + must have had some kind of communication with both the northern and + southern ends of the Victoria N'yanza. + </p> + <p> + Having gone to work again, I found that Sheikh Said had brought ten men, + four of whom were purchased for one hundred dollars, which I had to pay; + Bombay, Baraka, Frij, and Rahan had brought twenty-six more, all freed + men; while the Sultan Majid, at the suggestion of Colonel Rigby, gave me + thirty-four men more, who were all raw labourers taken from his gardens. + It was my intention to have taken one hundred of this description of men + throughout the whole journey; but as so many could not be found in + Zanzibar, I still hoped to fill up the complement in Unyamuezi, the land + of the Moon, from the large establishments of the Arab merchants residing + there. The payment of these men's wages for the first year, as well as the + terms of the agreement made with them, by the kind consent of Colonel + Rigby were now entered in the Consular Office books, as a security to both + parties, and a precaution against disputes on the way. Any one who saw the + grateful avidity with which they took the money, and the warmth with which + they pledged themselves to serve me faithfully through all dangers and + difficulties, would, had he had no dealings with such men before, have + thought that I had a first-rate set of followers. I lastly gave Sheikh + Said a double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, and distributed fifty carbines + among the seniors of the expedition, with the condition that they would + forfeit them to others more worthy if they did not behave well, but would + retain possession of them for ever if they carried them through the + journey to my satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st, as everything was ready on the island, I sent Sheikh Said and + all the men, along with the Hottentots, mules, and baggage, off in dhows + to Bagamoyo, on the opposite mainland. Colonel Rigby, with Captain Grant + and myself, then called on the Sultan, to bid him adieu, when he + graciously offered me, as a guard of honour to escort me through Uzaramo, + one jemadar and twenty-five Beluch soldiers. These I accepted, more as a + government security in that country against the tricks of the natives, + than for any accession they made to our strength. His highness then places + his 22-gun corvette, "Secundra Shah," at our disposal, and we went all + three over to Bagamoyo, arriving on the 25th. Immediately on landing, + Ladha and Sheikh Said showed us into a hut prepared for us, and all things + looked pretty well. Ladha's hundred loads of beads, cloths, and brass wire + were all tied up for the march, and seventy-five pagazis (porters from the + Moon country) had received their hire to carry these loads to Kaze in the + land of the Moon. Competition, I found, had raised these men's wages, for + I had to pay, to go even as far as Kaze, nine and a quarter dollars + a-head!—as Masudi and some other merchants were bound on the same + line as myself, and all were equally in a hurry to be off and avoid as + much as possible the famine we knew we should have to fight through at + this late season. Little troubles, of course, must always be expected, + else these blacks would not be true negroes. Sheikh Said now reported it + quite impossible to buy anything at a moderate rate; for, as I was a "big + man," I ought to "pay a big price;" and my men had all been obliged to + fight in the bazaar before they could get even tobacco at the same rate as + other men, because they were the servants of the big man, who could afford + to give higher wages than any one else. The Hottentots, too, began to fall + sick, which my Wanguana laughingly attributed to want of grog to keep + their spirits up, as these little creatures, the "Tots," had frequently at + Zanzibar, after heavy potations, boasted to the more sober free men, that + they "were strong, because they could stand plenty drink." The first step + now taken was to pitch camp under large shady mango-trees, and to instruct + every man in his particular duty. At the same time, the Wanguana, who had + carbines, were obliged to be drilled in their use and formed into + companies, with captains of ten, headed by General Baraka, who was made + commander-in-chief. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th September, as things were looking more orderly, I sent forward + half of the property, and all the men I had then collected, to Ugeni, a + shamba, or garden, two miles off; and on the 2nd October, after settling + with Ladha for my "African money," as my pagazis were completed to a + hundred and one, we wished Rigby adieu, and all assembled together at + Ugeni, which resembles the richest parts of Bengal. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II. Uzaramo + </h2> + <p> + The Nature of the Country—The Order of March—The Beginning of + our Taxation—Sultan Lion's Claw, and Sultan Monkey's Tail—The + Kingani—Jealousies and Difficulties in the Camp—The Murderer + of M. Maizan. + </p> + <p> + We were now in U-za-Ramo, which may mean the country of Ramo, though I + have never found any natives who could enlighten me on the derivation of + this obviously triple word. The extent of the country, roughly speaking, + stretches from the coast to the junction or bifurcation of the Kingani and + its upper branch the Mgeta river, westwards; and from the Kingani, north, + to the Lufigi river, south; though in the southern portions several + subtribes have encroached upon the lands. There are no hills in Uzaramo; + but the land in the central line, formed like a ridge between the two + rivers, furrow fashion, consists of slightly elevated flats and terraces, + which, in the rainy season, throw off their surplus waters to the north + and south by nullahs into these rivers. The country is uniformly well + covered with trees and large grasses, which, in the rainy season, are too + thick, tall, and green to be pleasant; though in the dry season, after the + grasses have been burnt, it is agreeable enough, though not pretty, owing + to the flatness of the land. The villages are not large or numerous, but + widely spread, consisting generally of conical grass huts, while others + are gable-ended, after the coast-fashion—a small collection of ten + or twenty comprising one village. Over these villages certain headmen, + titled Phanze, hold jurisdiction, who take black-mail from travellers with + high presumption when they can. Generally speaking, they live upon the + coast, and call themselves Diwans, headsmen, and subjects of the Sultan + Majid; but they no sooner hear of the march of a caravan than they + transpose their position, become sultans in their own right, and levy + taxes accordingly. + </p> + <p> + The Wazaramo are strictly agriculturists; they have no cows, and but few + goats. They are of low stature and thick set and their nature tends to the + boisterous. Expert slavehunters, they mostly clothe themselves by the sale + of their victims on the coast, though they do business by the sale of + goats and grain as well. Nowhere in the interior are natives so well clad + as these creatures. In dressing up their hair, and otherwise smearing + their bodies with ochreish clay, they are great dandies. They always keep + their bows and arrows, which form their national arm, in excellent order, + the latter well poisoned, and carried in quivers nicely carved. To + intimidate a caravan and extort a hongo or tax, I have seen them drawn out + in line as if prepared for battle; but a few soft words were found + sufficient to make them all withdraw and settle the matter at issue by + arbitration in some appointed place. A few men without property can cross + their lands fearlessly, though a single individual with property would + stand no chance, for they are insatiable thieves. But little is seen of + these people on the journey, as the chiefs take their taxes by deputy, + partly out of pride, and partly because they think they can extort more by + keeping in the mysterious distance. At the same time, the caravan prefers + camping in the jungles beyond the villages to mingling with the + inhabitants, where rows might be engendered. We sometimes noticed Albinos, + with greyish-blue eyes and light straw-coloured hair. Not unfrequently we + would pass on the track side small heaps of white ashes, with a calcined + bone or two among them. These, we were told, were the relics of burnt + witches. The caravan track we had now to travel on leads along the right + bank of the Kingani valley, overlooking Uzegura, which, corresponding with + Uzaramo, only on the other side of the Kigani, extends northwards to the + Pangani river, and is intersected in the centre by the Wami river, of + which more hereafter. + </p> + <p> + Starting on a march with a large mixed caravan, consisting of 1 corporal + and 9 privates, Hottentots—1 jemadar and 25 privates, Beluchs—1 + Arab Cafila Bashi and 75 freed slaves—1 Kirangozi, or leader, and + 100 negro porters—12 mules untrained, 3 donkeys, and 22 goats—one + could hardly expect to find everybody in his place at the proper time for + breaking ground; but, at the same time, it could hardly be expected that + ten men, who had actually received their bounty-money, and had sworn + fidelity, should give one the slip the very first day. Such, however, was + the case. Ten out of the thirty-six given by the Sultan ran away, because + they feared that the white men, whom they believed to be cannibals, were + only taking them into the interior to eat them; and one pagazi, more + honest than the freed men, deposited his pay upon the ground, and ran away + too. Go we must, however; for one desertion is sure to lead to more; and + go we did. Our procession was in this fashion: The Kirangozi, with a load + on his shoulder, led the way, flag in hand, followed by the pagazis + carrying spears of bows and arrows in their hands, and bearing their share + of the baggage in the shape either of bolster-shaped loads of cloth and + beads covered with matting, each tied into the fork of a three-pronged + stick, or else coils of brass or copper wire tied in even weights to each + end of sticks which they laid on the shoulder; then helter-skelter came + the Wanguana, carrying carbines in their hands, and boxes, bundles, tents, + cooking-pots—all the miscellaneous property—on their heads; + next the Hottentots, dragging the refractory mules laden with + ammunition-boxes, but very lightly, to save the animals for the future; + and, finally, Sheikh Said and the Beluch escort; while the goats, sick + women, and stragglers, brought up the rear. From first to last, some of + the sick Hottentots rode the hospital donkeys, allowing the negroes to tug + their animals; for the smallest ailment threw them broadcast on their + backs. In a little while we cleared from the rich gardens, mango clumps, + and cocoa-but trees, which characterise the fertile coast-line. After + traversing fields of grass well clothed with green trees, we arrived at + the little settlement of Bomani, where camp was formed, and everybody + fairly appointed to his place. The process of camp-forming would be thus: + Sheikh Said, with Bombay under him, issues cloths to the men for rations + at the rate of one-fourth load a-day (about 15 lb.) amongst 165; the + Hottentots cook our dinners and their own, or else lie rolling on the + ground overcome with fatigue; the Beluchs are supposed to guard the camp, + but prefer gossip and brightening their arms. Some men are told off to + look after the mules, donkeys, and goats, whilst out grazing; the rest + have to pack the kit, pitch our tents, cut boughs for huts, and for + fencing in the camp—a thing rarely done, by-the-by. After cooking, + when the night has set it, the everlasting dance begins, attended with + clapping of hands and jingling small bells strapped to the legs—the + whole being accompanied by a constant repetition of senseless words, which + stand in place of the song to the negroes; for song they have none, being + mentally incapacitated for musical composition, though as timists they are + not to be surpassed. + </p> + <p> + What remains to be told is the daily occupation of Captain Grant, myself, + and our private servants. Beginning at the foot: Rahan, a very peppery + little negro, who had served in a British man-of-war at the taking of + Rangoon, was my valet; and Baraka, who had been trained much in the same + manner, but had seen engagements at Multan, was Captain Grant's. They both + knew Hindustani; but while Rahan's services at sea had been short, Baraka + had served nearly all his life with Englishmen—was the smartest and + most intelligent negro I ever saw—was invaluable to Colonel Rigby as + a detector of slave-traders, and enjoyed his confidence completely—so + much so, that he said, on parting with him, that he did not know where he + should be able to find another man to fill his post. These two men had now + charge of our tents and personal kit, while Baraka was considered the + general of the Wanguana forces, and Rahan a captain of ten. + </p> + <p> + My first occupation was to map the country. This is done by timing the + rate of march with a watch, taking compass-bearings along the road, or on + any conspicuous marks—as, for instance, hills off it—and by + noting the watershed—in short, all topographical objects. On arrival + in camp every day came the ascertaining, by boiling a thermometer, of the + altitude of the station above the sea-level; of the latitude of the + station by the meridian altitude of the star taken with a sextant; and of + the compass variation by azimuth. Occasionally there was the fixing of + certain crucial stations, at intervals of sixty miles or so, by lunar + observations, or distances of the moon either from the sun or from certain + given stars, for determining the longitude, by which the original-timed + course can be drawn out with certainty on the map by proportion. Should a + date be lost, you can always discover it by taking a lunar distance and + comparing it with the Nautical Almanac, by noting the time when a star + passes the meridian if your watch is right, or by observing the phases of + the moon, or her rising or setting, as compared with the Nautical Almanac. + The rest of my work, besides sketching and keeping a diary, which was the + most troublesome of all, consisted in making geological and zoological + collections. With Captain Grant rested the botanical collections and + thermometrical registers. He also boiled one of the thermometers, kept the + rain-gauge, and undertook the photography; but after a time I sent the + instruments back, considering this work too severe for the climate, and he + tried instead sketching with watercolours—the results of which form + the chief part of the illustrations in this book. The rest of our day went + in breakfasting after the march was over—a pipe, to prepare us for + rummaging the fields and villages to discover their contents for + scientific purposes—dinner close to sunset, and tea and pipe before + turning in at night. + </p> + <p> + A short stage brought us to Ikamburu, included in the district of Nzasa, + where there is another small village presided over by Phanze Khombe la + Simba, meaning Claw of Lion. He, immediately after our arrival, sent us a + present of a basket of rice, value one dollar, of course expecting a + return—for absolute generosity is a thing unknown to the negro. Not + being aware of the value of the offering, I simply requested the Sheikh to + give him four yards of American sheeting, and thought no more about the + matter, until presently I found the cloth returned. The "Sultan" could not + think of receiving such a paltry present from me, when on the former + journey he got so much; if he showed this cloth at home, nobody would + believe him, but would say he took much more and concealed it from his + family, wishing to keep all his goods to himself. I answered that my + footing in the country had been paid for on the last journey, and unless + he would accept me as any other common traveller, he had better walk away; + but the little Sheikh, a timid, though very gentlemanly creature, knowing + the man, and dreading the consequences of too high a tone, pleaded for + him, and proposed as a fitting hongo, one dubuani, one sahari, and eight + yards merikani, as the American sheeting is called here. This was pressed + by the jemadar, and acceded to by myself, as the very utmost I could + afford. Lion's Claw, however, would not accept it; it was too far below + the mark of what he got last time. He therefore returned the cloths to the + Sheikh, as he could get no hearing from myself, and retreated in high + dudgeon, threatening the caravan with a view of his terrible presence on + the morrow. Meanwhile the little Sheikh, who always carried a sword fully + two-thirds the length of himself, commenced casting bullets for his + double-barrelled rifle, ordered the Wanguana to load their guns, and came + wheedling up to me for one more cloth, as it was no use hazarding the + expedition's safety for four yards of cloth. This is a fair specimen of + tax-gathering, within twelve miles of the coast, by a native who claims + the protection of Zanzibar. We shall soon see what they are further on. + The result of experience is, that, ardent as the traveller is to see the + interior of Africa, no sooner has he dealings with the natives, than his + whole thoughts tend to discovering some road where he won't be molested, + or a short cut, but long march, to get over the ground. + </p> + <p> + Quite undisturbed, we packed and marched as usual, and soon passed Nzasa + close to the river, which is only indicated by a line of trees running + through a rich alluvial valley. We camped at the little settlement of + Kizoto, inhospitably presided over by Phanze Mukia ya Nyani or Monkey's + Tail, who no sooner heard of our arrival than he sent a demand for his + "rights." One dubani was issued, with orders than no one need approach me + again, unless he wanted to smell my powder. Two taxes in five miles was a + thing unheard of; and I heard no more about the matter, until Bombay in + the evening told me how Sheikh Said, fearing awkward consequences, had + settled to give two dubuani, one being taken from his own store. Lion's + Claw also turned up again, getting his cloths of yesterday—one more + being added from the Sheikh's stores—and he was then advised to go + off quietly, as I was a fire-eater whom nobody dared approach after my + orders had been issued. This was our third march in Uzaramo; we had + scarcely seen a man of the country, and had no excessive desire to do so. + </p> + <p> + Deflecting from the serpentine course of the Kingani a little, we crossed + a small bitter rivulet, and entered on the elevated cultivation of Kiranga + Ranga, under Phanze Mkungu-pare, a very mild man, who, wishing to give no + offence, begged for a trifling present. He came in person, and his manner + having pleased us, I have him one sahari, four yards merikani, and eight + yards kiniki, which pleased our friend so much that he begged us to + consider his estate our own, even to the extent of administering his + justice, should any Mzaramo be detected stealing from us. Our + target-practice, whilst instructing the men, astonished him not a little, + and produced an exclamation that, with so many guns, we need fear nothing, + go where we would. From this place a good view is obtained of Uzegura. + Beyond the flat alluvial valley of the Kingani, seven to eight miles + broad, the land rises suddenly to a table-land of no great height, on + which trees grow in profusion. In fact it appeared, as far as the eye + could reach, the very counterpart of that where we stood, with the + exception of a small hill, very distant, called Phongue. + </p> + <p> + A very welcome packet of quinine and other medicines reached us here from + Rigby, who, hearing our complaints that the Hottentots could only be kept + alive by daily potions of brandy and quinine, feared our supplies were not + enough, and sent us more. + </p> + <p> + We could not get the Sultan's men to chum with the Wanguana proper; they + were shy, like wild animals—built their huts by themselves—and + ate and talked by themselves, for they felt themselves inferiors; and I + had to nominate one of their number to be their chief, answerable for the + actions of the whole. Being in the position of "boots" to the camp, the + tending of goats fell to their lot. Three goats were missing this evening, + which the goatherds could not account for, nor any of their men. + Suspecting that they were hidden for a private feast, I told their chief + to inquire farther, and report. The upshot was, that the man was thrashed + for intermeddling, and came back only with his scars. This was a nice sort + of insubordination, which of course could not be endured. The goatherd was + pinioned and brought to trial, for the double offence of losing the goats + and rough-handling his chief. The tricking scoundrel—on quietly + saying he could not be answerable for other men's actions if they stole + goats, and he could not recognise a man as his chief whom the Sheikh, + merely by a whim of his own, thought proper to appoint—was condemned + to be tied up for the night with the prospect of a flogging in the + morning. Seeing his fate, the cunning vagabond said, "Now I do see it was + by your orders the chief was appointed, and not by a whim of Sheikh + Said's; I will obey him for the future;" and these words were hardly + pronounced than the three missing goats rushed like magic into camp, + nobody of course knowing where they came from. + </p> + <p> + Skirting along the margin of the rising ground overlooking the river, + through thick woods, cleared in places for cultivation, we arrived at + Thumba Lhere. The chief here took a hongo of three yards merikani and two + yards kiniki without much fuss, for he had no power. The pagazis struck, + and said they would not move from this unless I gave them one fundo or ten + necklaces of beads each daily, in lieu of rations, as they were promised + by Ladha on the coast that I would do so as soon as they had made four + marches. This was an obvious invention, concocted to try my generosity, + for I had given the kirangozi a goat, which is customary, to "make the + journey prosperous"—had suspended a dollar to his neck in + recognition of his office, and given him four yards merikani, that he + might have a grand feast with his brothers; while neither the Sheikh, + myself, nor any one else in the camp, had heard of such a compact. With + high words the matter dropped, African fashion. + </p> + <p> + The pagazis would not start at the appointed time, hoping to enforce their + demands of last night; so we took the lead and started, followed by the + Wanguana. Seeing this, the pagazis cried out with one accord: "The master + is gone, leaving the responsibility of his property in our hands; let us + follow, let us follow, for verily he is our father;" and all came hurrying + after us. Here the river, again making a bend, is lost to sight, and we + marched through large woods and cultivated fields to Muhugue, observing, + as we passed long, the ochreish colour of the earth, and numerous pits + which the copal-diggers had made searching for their much-valued gum. A + large coast-bound caravan, carrying ivory tusks with double-toned bells + suspended to them, ting-tonging as they moved along, was met on the way; + and as some of the pagazis composing it were men who had formerly taken me + to the Victoria N'yanza, warm recognitions passed between us. The water + found here turned our brandy and tea as black as ink. The chief, being a + man of small pretensions, took only one sahari and four yards merikani. + </p> + <p> + Instead of going on to the next village we halted in this jungly place for + the day, that I might comply with the desire of the Royal Geographical + Society to inspect Muhonyera, and report if there were really any + indications of a "raised sea-beach" there, such as their maps indicate. An + inspection brought me to the conclusion that no mind but one prone to + discovering sea-beaches in the most unlikely places could have supposed + for a moment that one existed here. The form and appearance of the land + are the same as we have seen everywhere since leaving Bomani—a low + plateau subtended by a bank cut down by the Kingani river, and nothing + more. There are no pebbles; the soil is rich reddish loam, well covered + with trees, bush, and grass, in which some pigs and antelopes are found. + From the top of this enbankment we gain the first sight of the East Coast + Range, due west of us, represented by the high elephant's-back hill, + Mkambaku, in Usagara, which, joining Uraguru, stretches northwards across + the Pangani river to Usumbara and the Kilimandjaro, and southwards, with a + westerly deflection, across the Lufiji to Southern N'yassa. What course + the range takes beyond those two extremes, the rest of the world knows as + well as I. Another conspicuous landmark here is Kidunda (the little hill), + which is the southernmost point of a low chain of hills, also tending + northwards, and representing an advance-guard to the higher East Coast + Range in its rear. At night, as we had no local "sultans" to torment us, + eight more men of sultan Majid's donation ran away, and, adding injury to + injury, took with them all our goats, fifteen in number. This was a sad + loss. We could keep ourselves on guinea-fowls or green pigeons, doves, + etc.; but the Hottentots wanted nourishment much more than ourselves, and + as their dinner always consisted of what we left, "short-commons" was the + fate in store for them. The Wanguana, instead of regarding these poor + creatures as soldiers, treated them like children; and once, as a + diminutive Tot—the common name they go by—was exerting himself + to lift his pack and place it on his mule, a fine Herculean Mguana stepped + up behind, grasped Tot, pack and all, in his muscular arms, lifted the + whole over his head, paraded the Tot about, struggling for release, and + put him down amidst the laughter of the camp, then saddled his mule and + patted him on the back. + </p> + <p> + After sending a party of Beluch to track down the deserters and goats, in + which they were not successful, we passed through the village of Sagesera, + and camped one mile beyond, close to the river. Phanze Kirongo (which + means Mr Pit) here paid us his respects, with a presentation of rice. In + return he received four yards merikani and one dubuani, which Bombay + settled, as the little Sheikh, ever done by the sultans, pleaded + indisposition, to avoid the double fire he was always subjected to on + these occasions, by the sultans grasping on the one side, and my resisting + on the other; for I relied on my strength, and thought it very inadvisable + to be generous with my cloth to the prejudice of future travellers, by + decreasing the value of merchandise, and increasing proportionately the + expectations of these negro chiefs. From the top of the bank bordering on + the valley, a good view was obtainable of the Uraguru hills, and the top + of a very distant cone to its northward; but I could see no signs of any + river joining the kingani on its left, though on the former expedition I + heard that the Mukondokua river, which was met with in Usagara, joined the + Kingani close to Sagesera, and actually formed its largest head branch. + Neither could Mr Pit inform me what became of the Mukondokua, as the + Wazaramo are not given to travelling. He had heard of it from the traders, + but only knew himself of one river beside the Kingani. It was called Wami + in Uegura, and mouths at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and Saadani. + To try and check the desertions of Sultan Majid's men, I advised—ordering + was of no use—that their camp should be broken up, and they should + be amalgamated with the Wanguana; but it was found that the two would not + mix. In fact, the whole native camp consisted of so many clubs of two, + four, six, or ten men, who originally belonged to one village or one + master, or were united by some other family tie which they preferred + keeping intact; so they cooked together, ate together, slept together, and + sometimes mutinied together. The amalgamation having failed, I wrote some + emanicipation tickets, called the Sultan's men all up together, selected + the best, gave them these tickets, announced that their pay and all + rewards would be placed for the future on the same conditions as those of + the Wanguana, and as soon as I saw any signs of improvement in the rest, + they would all be treated in the same manner; but should they desert, they + would find my arm long enough to arrest them on the coast and put them + into prison. + </p> + <p> + During this march we crossed three deep nullahs which drain the Uzaramo + plateau, and arrived at the Makutaniro, or junction of this line with + those of Mboamaji and Konduchi, which traverse central Uzaramo, and which, + on my former return journey, I went down. The gum-copal diggings here + cease. The Dum palm is left behind; the large rich green-leaved trees of + the low plateau give place to the mimosa; and now, having ascended the + greater decline of the Kingani river, instead of being confined by a bank, + we found ourselves on flat open-park land, where antelopes roam at large, + buffalo and zebra are sometimes met with, and guinea-fowl are numerous. + The water for the camp is found in the river, but supplies of grain come + from the village of Kipora farther on. + </p> + <p> + A march through the park took us to a camp by a pond, from which, by + crossing the Kingani, rice and provisions for the men were obtained on the + opposite bank. One can seldom afford to follow wild animals on the line of + march, otherwise we might have bagged some antelopes to-day, which, scared + by the interminable singing, shouting, bell-jingling, horn-blowing, and + other such merry noises of the moving caravan, could be seen disappearing + in the distance. + </p> + <p> + Leaving the park, we now entered the riches part of Uzaramo, affording + crops as fine as any part of India. Here it was, in the district of Dege + la Mhora, that the first expedition to this country, guided by a + Frenchman, M. Maizan, came to a fatal termination, that gentleman having + been barbarously murdered by the sub-chief Hembe. The cause of the affair + was distinctly explained to me by Hembe himself, who, with his cousin + Darunga, came to call upon me, presuming, as he was not maltreated by the + last expedition, that the matter would now be forgotten. The two men were + very great friends of the little Sheikh, and as a present was expected, + which I should have to pay, we all talked cheerfully and confidentially, + bringing in the fate of Maizan for no other reason than to satisfy + curiosity. Hembe, who lives in the centre of an almost impenetrable + thicket, confessed that he was the murderer, but said the fault did not + rest with him, as he merely carried out the instructions of his father, + Mzungera, who, a Diwan on the coast, sent him a letter directing his + actions. Thus it is proved that the plot against Maizan was concocted on + the coast by the Arab merchants—most likely from the same motive + which has induced one rival merchant to kill another as the best means of + checking rivalry or competition. When Arabs—and they are the only + class of people who would do such a deed—found a European going into + the very middle of their secret trading-places, where such large profits + were to be obtained, they would never suppose that the scientific Maizan + went for any other purpose than to pry into their ivory stores, bring + others into the field after him, and destroy their monopoly. The Sultan of + Zanzibar, in those days, was our old ally Said Said, commonly called the + Emam of Muscat; and our Consul, Colonel Hamerton, had been M. Maizan's + host as long as he lived upon the coast. Both the Emam and Consul were + desirous of seeing the country surveyed, and did everything in their power + to assist Maizan, the former even appointing the Indian Musa to conduct + him safely as far as Unyamuezi; but their power was not found sufficient + to damp the raging fire of jealousy in the ivory-trader's heart. Musa + commenced the journey with Maizan, and they travelled together a march or + two, when one of Maizan's domestic establishment fell sick and stopped his + progress. Musa remained with him eight or ten days, to his own loss in + trade and expense in keeping up a large establishment, and then they + parted by mutual consent, Maizan thinking himself quite strong enough to + take care of himself. This separation was, I believe, poor Maizan's + death-blow. His power, on the Emam's side, went with Musa's going, and + left the Arabs free to carry out their wicked wills. + </p> + <p> + The presents I had to give here were one sahari and eight yards merikani + to Hembe, and the same to Darunga, for which they gave a return in grain. + Still following close to the river—which, unfortunately, is so + enshrouded with thick bush that we could seldom see it—a few of the + last villages in Uzaramo were passed. Here antelopes reappear amongst the + tall mimosa, but we let them alone in prosecution of the survey, and + finally encamped opposite the little hill of Kidunda, which lying on the + left bank of the Kingani, stretches north, a little east, into Uzegura. + The hill crops out through pisolitic limestone, in which marine fossils + were observable. It would be interesting to ascertain whether this lime + formation extends down the east coast of Africa from the Somali country, + where also, on my first expedition, I found marine shells in the + limestone, especially as a vast continuous band of limestone is known to + extend from the Tagus, through Egypt and the Somali country, to the + Burrumputra. To obtain food it was necessary here to ferry the river and + purchase from the Wazaramo, who, from fear of the passing caravans, had + left their own bank and formed a settlement immediately under this pretty + little hill—rendered all the more enchanting to our eyes, as it was + the first we had met since leaving the sea-coast. The Diwan, or head man, + was a very civil creature; he presented us freely with two fine goats—a + thing at that time we were very much in want of—and took, in return, + without any comments, one dubani and eight yards merikani. + </p> + <p> + The next day, as we had no further need of our Beluch escort, a halt was + made to enable me to draw up a "Progress Report," and pack all the + specimens of natural history collected on the way, for the Royal + Geographical Society. Captain Grant, taking advantage of the spare time, + killed for the larder two buck antelopes, and the Tots brought in, in high + excited triumph, a famous pig. + </p> + <p> + This march, which declines from the Kingani a little, leads through + rolling, jungly ground, full of game, to the tributary stream Mgeta. It is + fordable in the dry season, but has to be bridged by throwing a tree + across it in the wet one. Rising in the Usagara hills to the west of the + hog-backed Mkambaku, this branch intersects the province of Ukhutu in the + centre, and circles round until it unites with the Kingani about four + miles north of the ford. Where the Kingani itself rises, I never could + find out; though I have heard that its sources lies in a gurgling spring + on the eastern face of the Mkambaku, by which account the Mgeta is made + the longer branch of the two. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III. Usagara + </h2> + <p> + Nature of the Country—Resumption of the March—A Hunt—Bombay + and Baraka—The Slave-Hunters—The Ivory-Merchants—Collection + of Natural-History Specimens—A Frightened Village—Tracking a + Mule. + </p> + <p> + Under U-Sagara, or, as it might be interpreted, U-sa-Gara—country of + Gara—is included all the country lying between the bifurcation of + the Kingani and Mgeta rivers east, and Ugogo, the first country on the + interior plateau west,—a distance of a hundred miles. On the north + it is bounded by the Mukondokua, or upper course of the Wami river and on + the south by the Ruaha, or northern great branch of the Lufiji river. It + forms a link of the great East Coast Range; but though it is generally + comprehended under the single name Usagara, many sub-tribes occupy and + apply their own names to portions of it; as, for instance, the people on + whose ground we now stood at the foot of the hills, are Wa-Khutu, and + their possessions consequently are U-Khutu, which is by far the best + producing land hitherto alluded to since leaving the sea-coast line. Our + ascent by the river, though quite imperceptible to the eye, has been 500 + feet. From this level the range before us rises in some places to 5000 to + 6000 feet, not as one grand mountain, but in two detached lines, lying at + an angle of 45 degrees from N.E. to S.W., and separated one from the other + by elevated valleys, tables, and crab-claw spurs of hill which incline + towards the flanking rivers. The whole having been thrown up by volcanic + action, is based on a strong foundation of granite and other igneous + rocks, which are exposed in many places in the shape of massive blocks; + otherwise the hill-range is covered in the upper part with sandstone, and + in the bottoms with alluvial clay. This is the superficial configuration + of the land as it strikes the eye; but, knowing the elevation of the + interior plateau to be only 2500 feet above the sea immediately on the + western flank of these hills, whilst the breath of the chain is 100 miles, + the mean slope of incline of the basal surface must be on a gradual rise + of twenty feet per mile. The hill tops and sides, where not cultivated, + are well covered with bush and small trees, amongst which the bamboo is + conspicuous; whilst the bottoms, having a soil deeper and richer, produce + fine large fig-trees of exceeding beauty, the huge calabash, and a variety + of other trees. Here, in certain places where water is obtainable + throughout the year, and wars, or slave-hunts more properly speaking, do + not disturb the industry of the people, cultivation thrives surprisingly; + but such a boon is rarely granted them. It is in consequence of these + constantly-recurring troubles that the majority of the Wasagara villages + are built on hill-spurs, where the people can the better resist attack, + or, failing, disperse and hide effectually. The normal habitation is the + small conical hut of grass. These compose villages, varying in number + according to the influence of their head men. There are, however, a few + mud villages on the table-lands, each built in a large irregular square of + chambers with a hollow yard in the centre, known as tembe. + </p> + <p> + As to the people of these uplands, poor, meagre-looking wretches, they + contrast unfavourably with the lowlanders on both sides of them. Dingy in + colour, spiritless, shy, and timid, they invite attack in a country where + every human being has a market value, and are little seen by the passing + caravan. In habits they are semi-pastoral agriculturalists, and would be + useful members of society were they left alone to cultivate their own + possessions, rich and beautiful by nature, but poor and desolate by force + of circumstance. Some of the men can afford a cloth, but the greater part + wear an article which I can only describe as a grass kilt. In one or two + places throughout the passage of these hills a caravan may be taxed, but + if so, only to a small amount; the villagers more frequently fly to the + hill-tops as soon as the noise of the advancing caravan is heard, and no + persuasions will bring them down again, so much ground have they, from + previous experience, to fear treachery. It is such sad sights, and the + obvious want of peace and prosperity, that weary the traveller, and make + him every think of pushing on to his journey's end from the instant he + enters Africa until he quits the country. + </p> + <p> + Knowing by old experience that the beautiful green park in the fork of + these rivers abounded in game of great variety and in vast herds, where no + men are ever seen except some savage hunters sitting in the trees with + poisoned arrows, or watching their snares and pitfalls, I had all along + determined on a hunt myself, to feed and cheer the men, and also to + collect some specimens for the home museums. In the first object we + succeeded well, as "the bags" we made counted two brindled gnu, four + water-boc, one pallah-boc, and one pig,—enough to feed abundantly + the whole camp round. The feast was all the better relished as the men + knew well that no Arab master would have given them what he could sell; + for if a slave shot game, the animals would be the master's, to be sold + bit by bit among the porters, and compensated from the proceeds of their + pay. In the variety and number of our game we were disappointed, partly + because so many wounded got away, and partly because we could not find + what we knew the park to contain, in addition to what we killed—namely, + elephants, rhinoceros, giraffes, buffaloes, zebra, and many varieties of + antelopes, besides lions and hyenas. In fact, "the park," as well as all + the adjacent land at the foot of the hills, is worth thinking of, with a + view to a sporting tour as well as scientific investigation. + </p> + <p> + A circumstance arose here, which, insignificant though it appeared, is + worth noting, to show how careful one must be in understanding and dealing + with negro servants. Quite unaccountably to myself, the general of my + Wanguana, Baraka, after showing much discontent with his position as head + of Captain Grant's establishment, became so insolent, that it was + necessary to displace him, and leave him nothing to do but look after the + men. This promoted Frij, who enjoyed his rise as much as Baraka, if his + profession was to be believed, enjoyed his removal from that office. + Though he spoke in this manner, still I knew that there was something + rankling in his mind which depressed his spirits as long as he remained + with us, though what it was I could not comprehend, nor did I fully + understand it till months afterwards. It was ambition, which was fast + making a fiend of him; and had I known it, he would, and with great + advantage too, have been dismissed upon the spot. The facts were these: He + was exceedingly clever, and he knew it. His command over men was + surprising. At Zanzibar he was the Consul's right-hand man: he ranked + above Bombay in the consular boat's crew, and became a terror even to the + Banyans who kept slaves. He seemed, in fact, in his own opinion, to have + imbibed all the power of the British Consul who had instructed him. Such a + man was an element of discord in our peaceful caravan. He was far too + big-minded for the sphere which he occupied; and my surprise now is that + he ever took service, knowing what he should, at the time of enlistment, + have expected, that no man would be degraded to make room for him. But + this was evidently what he had expected, though he dared not say it. He + was jealous of Bombay, because he thought his position over the money + department was superior to his own over the men; and he had seen Bombay, + on one occasion, pay a tax in Uzaramo—a transaction which would give + him consequence with the native chiefs. Of Sheikh Said he was equally + jealous, for a like reason; and his jealousy increased the more that I + found it necessary to censure the timidity of this otherwise worthy little + man. Baraka thought, in his conceit, that he could have done all things + better, and gained signal fame, had he been created chief. Perhaps he + thought he had gained the first step towards this exalted rank, and hence + his appearing very happy for this time. I could not see through so deep a + scheme and only hoped that he would shortly forget, in the changes of the + marching life, those beautiful wives he had left behind him, which Bombay + in his generosity tried to persuade me was the cause of his mental + distraction. + </p> + <p> + Our halt at the ford here was cut short by the increasing sickness of the + Hottentots, and the painful fact that Captain Grant was seized with fever. + <a href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a> + We had to change camp to the little village of Kiruru, where, as rice was + grown—an article not to be procured again on this side of Unyamuezi—we + stopped a day to lay in supplies of this most valuable of all travelling + food. Here I obtained the most consistent accounts of the river system + which, within five days' journey, trends through Uzegura; and I concluded, + from what I heard, that there is no doubt of the Mukondokua and Wami + rivers being one and the same stream. My informants were the natives of + the settlement, and they all concurred in saying that the Kingani above + the junction is called the Rufu, meaning the parent stream. Beyond it, + following under the line of the hills, at one day's journey distant, there + is a smaller river called Msonge. At an equal distance beyond it, another + of the same size is known as Lungerengeri; and a fourth river is the Wami, + which mouths in the sea at Utondue, between the ports of Whindi and + Saadami. In former years, the ivory-merchants, ever seeking for an easy + road for their trade, and knowing they would have no hills to climb if + they could only gain a clear passage by this river from the interior + plateau to the sea, made friends with the native chiefs of Uzegura, and + succeeded in establishing it as a thoroughfare. Avarice, however, that + fatal enemy to the negro chiefs, made them overreach themselves by + exorbitant demands of taxes. Then followed contests for the right of + appropriating the taxes, and the whole ended in the closing of the road, + which both parties were equally anxious to keep open for their mutual + gain. This foolish disruption having at first only lasted for a while, the + road was again opened and again closed, for the merchants wanted an easy + passage, and the native chiefs desired cloths. But it was shut again; and + now we heard of its being for a third time opened, with what success the + future only can determine—for experience WILL not teach the negro, + who thinks only for the moment. Had they only sense to see, and patience + to wait, the whole trade of the interior would inevitably pass through + their country instead of Uzaramo; and instead of being poor in cloths, + they would be rich and well dressed like their neighbours. But the curse + of Noah sticks to these his grandchildren by Ham, and no remedy that has + yet been found will relieve them. They require a government like ours in + India; and without it, the slave trade will wipe them off the face of the + earth. + </p> + <p> + Now leaving the open parks of pretty acacias, we followed up the Mgazi + branch of the Mgeta, traversed large tree-jungles, where the tall palm is + conspicuous, and drew up under the lumpy Mkambaku, to find a residence for + the day. Here an Arab merchant, Khamis, bound for Zanzibar, obliged us by + agreeing for a few dollars to convey our recent spoils in natural history + to the coast. + </p> + <p> + My plans for the present were to reach Zungomero as soon as possible, as a + few days' halt would be required there to fix the longitude of the eastern + flank of the East Coast Range by astronomical observation; but on ordering + the morning's march, the porters—too well fed and lazy—thought + our marching-rate much too severe, and resolutely refused to move. They + ought to have made ten miles a-day, but preferred doing five. Argument was + useless, and I was reluctant to apply the stick, as the Arabs would have + done when they saw their porters trifling with their pockets. Determining, + however, not to be frustrated in this puerile manner, I ordered the bugler + to sound the march, and started with the mules and coast-men, trusting to + Sheikh and Baraka to bring on the Wanyamuezi as soon as they could move + them. The same day we crossed the Mgazi where we found several Wakhutu + spearing fish in the muddy hovers of its banks. + </p> + <p> + We slept under a tree, and this morning found a comfortable residence + under the eaves of a capacious hut. The Wanyamuezi porters next came in at + their own time, and proved to us how little worth are orders in a land + where every man, in his own opinion, is a lord, and no laws prevail. + Zungomero, bisected by the Mgeta, lies on flat ground, in a very pretty + amphitheatre of hills, S. lat. 7° 26' 53", and E. long. 37° 36' 45". It is + extremely fertile, and very populous, affording everything that man can + wish, even to the cocoa and papwa fruits; but the slave-trade has almost + depopulated it, and turned its once flourishing gardens into jungles. As I + have already said, the people who possess these lands are cowardly by + nature, and that is the reason why they are so much oppressed. The + Wasuahili, taking advantage of their timidity, flock here in numbers to + live upon the fruits of their labours. The merchants on the coast, too, + though prohibited by their Sultan from interfering with the natural course + of trade, send their hungry slaves, as touters, to entice all approaching + caravans to trade with their particular ports, authorising the touters to + pay such premiums as may be necessary for the purpose. Where they came + from we could not ascertain; but during our residence, a large party of + the Wasuahili marched past, bound for the coast, with one hundred head of + cattle, fifty slaves in chains, and as many goats. Halts always end + disastrously in Africa, giving men time for mischief;—and here was + an example of it. During the target-practice, which was always instituted + on such occasions to give confidence to our men, the little pepper-box + Rahan, my head valet, challenged a comrade to a duel with carbines. Being + stopped by those around him, he vented his wrath in terrible oaths, and + swung about his arms, until his gun accidentally went off, and blew his + middle finger off. + </p> + <p> + Baraka next, with a kind of natural influence of affinity when a row is + commenced, made himself so offensive to Bombay, as to send him running to + me so agitated with excitement that I thought him drunk. He seized my + hands, cried, and implored me to turn him off. What could this mean? I + could not divine; neither could he explain, further than that he had come + to a determination that I must send either him or Baraka to the + right-about; and his first idea was that he, and not Baraka, should be the + victim. Baraka's jealousy about his position had not struck me yet. I + called them both together and asked what quarrel they had, but could not + extract the truth. Baraka protested that he had never given, either by + word or deed, the slightest cause of rupture; he only desired the + prosperity of the march, and that peace should reign throughout the camp; + but Bombay was suspicious of him, and malignantly abused him, for what + reason Baraka could not tell. When I spoke of this to Bombay, like a bird + fascinated by the eye of a viper, he shrank before the slippery tongue of + his opponent, and could only say, "No, Sahib—oh no, that is not it; + you had better turn me off, for his tongue is so long, and mine so short, + you never will believe me." I tried to make them friends, hoping it was + merely a passing ill-wind which would soon blow over; but before long the + two disputants were tonguing it again, and I distinctly heard Bombay + ordering Baraka out of camp as he could not keep from intermeddling, + saying, which was true, he had invited him to join the expedition, that + his knowledge of Hindustani might be useful to us; he was not wanted for + any other purpose, and unless he was satisfied with doing that alone, we + would get on much better without him. To this provocation Baraka mildly + made the retort, "Pray don't put yourself in a passion, nobody is hurting + you, it is all in your own heart, which is full of suspicions and jealousy + without the slightest cause." + </p> + <p> + This complicated matters more than ever. I knew Bombay to be a generous, + honest man, entitled by his former services to be in the position he was + now holding as fundi, or supervisor in the camp. Baraka, who never would + have joined the expedition excepting through his invitation, was indebted + to him for the rank he now enjoyed—a command over seventy men, a + duty in which he might have distinguished himself as a most useful + accessory to the camp. Again I called the two together, and begged them to + act in harmony like brothers, noticing that there was no cause for + entertaining jealousy on either side, as every order rested with myself to + reward for merit or to punish. The relative position in the camp was like + that of the senior officers in India, Bombay representing the Mulki lord, + or Governor-General, and Baraka the Jungi lord, or Commander-in-Chief. To + the influence of this distinguished comparison they both gave way, + acknowledging myself their judge, and both protesting that they wished to + serve in peace and quietness for the benefit of the march. + </p> + <p> + Zungomero is a terminus or junction of two roads leading to the interior—one, + the northern, crossing over the Goma Pass, and trenching on the Mukondokua + river, and the other crossing over the Mabruki Pass, and edging on the + Ruaha river. They both unite again at Ugogi, the western terminus on the + present great Unyamuezi line. On the former expedition I went by the + northern line and returned by the southern, finding both equally easy, + and, indeed, neither is worthy of special and permanent preference. In + fact, every season makes a difference in the supply of water and + provisions; and with every year, owing to incessant wars, or rather + slave-hunts, the habitations of the wretched inhabitants become constantly + changed—generally speaking, for the worse. Our first and last + object, therefore, as might be supposed, from knowing these circumstances, + was to ascertain, before mounting the hill-range, which route would afford + us the best facilities for a speedy march now. No one, however, could or + would advise us. The whole country on ahead, especially Ugogo, was + oppressed by drought and famine. To avoid this latter country, then, we + selected the southern route, as by doing so it was hoped we might follow + the course of the Ruaha river from Maroro to Usenga and Usanga, and thence + strike across to Unyanyembe, sweeping clear of Ugogo. + </p> + <p> + With this determination, after despatching a third set of specimens, + consisting of large game animals, birds, snakes, insects, land and + freshwater shells, and a few rock specimens, of which one was + fossiliferous, we turned southwards, penetrating the forests which lie + between the greater range and the little outlying one. At the foot of this + is the Maji ya Wheta, a hot, deep-seated spring of fresh water, which + bubbles up through many apertures in a large dome-shaped heap of soft lime—an + accumulation obviously thrown up by the force of the spring, as the rocks + on either side of it are of igneous character. We arrived at the deserted + village of Kirengue. This was not an easy go-ahead march, for the halt had + disaffected both men and mules. Three of the former bolted, leaving their + loads upon the ground; and on the line of march, one of the mules, a + full-conditioned animal, gave up the ghost after an eighteen hours' + sickness. What his disease was I never could ascertain; but as all the + remaining animals died afterwards much in the same manner, I may state for + once and for all, that these attacks commenced with general swelling, at + first on the face, then down the neck, along the belly and down the legs. + It proved so obstinate that fire had no effect upon it; and although we + cut off the tails of some to relieve them by bleeding, still they died. + </p> + <p> + In former days Kirengue was inhabited, and we reasonably hoped to find + some supplies for the jungly march before us. But we had calculated + without our host, for the slave-hunters had driven every vestige of + humanity away; and now, as we were delayed by our three loads behind, + there was nothing left but to send back and purchase more grain. Such was + one of the many days frittered away in do-nothingness. + </p> + <p> + This day, all together again, we rose the first spurs of the well-wooded + Usagara hills, amongst which the familiar bamboo was plentiful, and at + night we bivouacked in the jungle. + </p> + <p> + Rising betimes in the morning, and starting with a good will, we soon + reached the first settlements of Mbuiga, from which could be seen a + curious blue mountain, standing up like a giant overlooking all the rest + of the hills. The scenery here formed a strong and very pleasing contrast + to any we had seen since leaving the coast. Emigrant Waziraha, who had + been driven from their homes across the Kingani river by the + slave-hunters, had taken possession of the place, and disposed their + little conical-hut villages on the heights of the hill-spurs in such a + picturesque manner, that one could not help hoping they would here at + least be allowed to rest in peace and quietness. The valleys, watered by + little brooks, are far richer, and even prettier, than the high lands + above, being lined with fine trees and evergreen shrubs; while the general + state of prosperity was such, that the people could afford, even at this + late season of the year, to turn their corn into malt to brew beer for + sale; and goats and fowls were plentiful in the market. + </p> + <p> + Passing by the old village of Mbuiga, which I occupied on my former + expedition, we entered some huts on the western flank of the Mbuiga + district; and here, finding a coast-man, a great friend of the little + sheikh's, willing to take back to Zanzibar anything we might give him, a + halt was made, and I drew up my reports. I then consigned to his charge + three of the most sickly of the Hottentots in a deplorable condition—one + of the mules, that they might ride by turns—and all the specimens + that had been collected. With regret I also sent back the camera; because + I saw, had I allowed my companion to keep working it, the heat he was + subjected to in the little tent whilst preparing and fixing his plates + would very soon have killed him. The number of guinea-fowl seen here was + most surprising. + </p> + <p> + A little lighter and much more comfortable for the good riddance of those + grumbling "Tots," we worked up to and soon breasted the stiff ascent of + the Mabruki Pass, which we surmounted without much difficult. This + concluded the first range of these Usagara hills; and once over, we + dropped down to the elevated valley of Makata, where we halted two days to + shoot. As a travelling Arab informed me that the whole of the Maroro + district had been laid waste by the marauding Wahehe, I changed our plans + again, and directed our attention to a middle and entirely new line, which + in the end would lead us to Ugogi. The first and only giraffe killed upon + the journey was here shot by Grant, with a little 40-gauge Lancaster + rifle, at 200 yards' distance. Some smaller animals were killed; but I + wasted all my time in fruitlessly stalking some wounded striped eland—magnificent + animals, as large as Delhi oxen—and some other animals, of which I + wounded three, about the size of hartebeest, and much their shape, only + cream-coloured, with a conspicuous black spot in the centre of each flank. + The eland may probably be the animal first mentioned by Livingstone, but + the other animal is not known. + </p> + <p> + Though reluctant to leave a place where such rare animals were to be + found, the fear of remaining longer on the road induced us to leave + Kikobogo, and at a good stride we crossed the flat valley of Makata, and + ascended the higher lands beyond, where we no sooner arrived than we met + the last down trader from Unyamuezi, well known to all my men as the great + Mamba or Crocodile. Mamba, dressed in a dirty Arab gown, with coronet of + lion's nails decorating a thread-bare cutch cap, greeted us with all the + dignity of a savage potentate surrounded by his staff of half-naked + officials. As usual, he had been the last to leave the Unyamuezi, and so + purchased all his stock of ivory at a cheap rate, there being no + competitors left to raise the value of that commodity; but his journey had + been a very trying one. With a party, at his own estimate, of two thousand + souls—we did not see anything like that number—he had come + from Ugogo to this, by his own confession, living on the products of the + jungle, and by boiling down the skin aprons of his porters occasionally + for a soup. Famines were raging throughout the land, and the Arabs + preceding him had so harried the country, that every village was deserted. + On hearing our intention to march upon the direct line, he frankly said he + thought we should never get through for my men could not travel as he had + done, and therefore he advised our deflecting northwards from New Mbumi to + join the track leading from Rumuma to Ugogi. This was a sad + disappointment; but, rather than risk a failure, I resolved to follow his + advice. + </p> + <p> + After reaching the elevated ground, we marched over rolling tops, covered + with small trees and a rich variety of pretty bulbs, and reached the + habitations of Muhanda, where we no sooner appeared than the poor + villagers, accustomed only to rough handling, immediately dispersed in the + jungles. By dint of persuasion, however, we induced them to sell us + provisions, though at a monstrous rate, such as no merchant could have + afforded; and having spent the night quietly, we proceeded on to the upper + courses of the M'yombo river, which trends its way northwards to the + Mukondokua river. The scenery was most interesting, with every variety of + hill, roll, plateau, and ravine, wild and prettily wooded; but we saw + nothing of the people. Like frightened rats, as soon as they caught the + sound of our advancing march, they buried themselves in the jungles, + carrying off their grain with them. Foraging parties, of necessity, were + sent out as soon as the camp was pitched, with cloth for purchases, and + strict orders not to use force; the upshot of which was, that my people + got nothing but a few arrows fired at them by the lurking villagers, and I + was abused for my squeamishness. Moreover, the villagers, emboldened by my + lenity, vauntingly declared they would attack the camp by night, as they + could only recognise in us such men as plunder their houses and steal + their children. This caused a certain amount of alarm among my men, which + induced them to run up a stiff bush-fence round the camp, and kept them + talking all night. + </p> + <p> + This morning we marched on as usual, with one of the Hottentots lashed on + a donkey; for the wretched creature, after lying in the sun asleep, became + so sickly that he could not move or do anything for himself, and nobody + would do anything for him. The march was a long one, but under ordinary + circumstances would have been very interesting, for we passed an immense + lagoon, where hippopotami were snorting as if they invited an attack. In + the larger tree-jungles the traces of elephants, buffaloes, rhinoceros, + and antelopes were very numerous; while a rich variety of small birds, as + often happened, made me wish I had come on a shooting rather than on a + long exploring expedition. Towards sunset we arrived at New Mbimi, a very + pretty and fertile place, lying at the foot of a cluster of steep hills, + and pitched camp for three days to lay in supplies for ten, as this was + reported to be the only place where we could buy corn until we reached + Ugogo, a span of 140 miles. Mr Mbumi, the chief of the place, a very + affable negro, at once took us by the hand, and said he would do anything + we desired, for he had often been to Zanzibar. He knew that the English + were the ruling power in that land, and that they were opposed to slavery, + the terrible effects of which had led to his abandoning Old Mbumi, on the + banks of the Mukondokua river, and rising here. + </p> + <p> + The sick Hottentot died here, and we buried him with Christian honours. As + his comrades said, he died because he had determined to die,—an + instance of that obstinate fatalism in their mulish temperament which no + kind words or threats can cure. This terrible catastrophe made me wish to + send all the remaining Hottentots back to Zanzibar; but as they all + preferred serving with me to returning to duty at the Cape, I selected two + of the MOST sickly, put them under Tabib, one of Rigby's old servants, and + told him to remain with them at Mbumi until such time as he might find + some party proceeding to the coasts; and, in the meanwhile, for board and + lodgings I have Mbumi beads and cloth. The prices of provisions here being + a good specimen of what one has to pay at this season of the year, I give + a short list of them:—sixteen rations corn, two yards cloth; three + fowls, two yards cloth; one goat, twenty yards cloth; one cow, forty yards + cloth,—the cloth being common American sheeting. Before we left + Mbumi, a party of forty men and women of the Waquiva tribe, pressed by + famine, were driven there to purchase food. The same tribe had, however + killed many of Mbumi's subjects not long since, and therefore, in African + revenge, the chief seized them all, saying he would send them off for sale + to Zanzibar market unless they could give a legitimate reason for the + cruelty they had committed. These Waquiva, I was given to understand, + occupied the steep hills surrounding this place. They were a + squalid-looking set, like the generality of the inhabitants of this + mountainous region. + </p> + <p> + This march led us over a high hill to the Mdunhwi river, another tributary + to the Mukondokua. It is all clad in the upper regions with the slender + pole-trees which characterise these hills, intermingled with bamboo; but + the bottoms are characterised by a fine growth of fig-trees of great + variety along with high grasses; whilst near the villages were found good + gardens of plantains, and numerous Palmyra trees. The rainy season being + not far off, the villagers were busy in burning rubble and breaking their + ground. Within their reach everywhere is the sarsaparilla vine, but + growing as a weed, for they know nothing of its value. + </p> + <p> + Rising up from the deep valley of Mdunhwi we had to cross another high + ridge before descending to the also deep valley of Chongue, as picturesque + a country as the middle heights of the Himalayas, dotted on the ridges and + spur-slopes by numerous small conical-hut villages; but all so poor that + we could not, had we wanted it, have purchased provisions for a day's + consumption. + </p> + <p> + Leaving this valley, we rose to the table of Manyovi, overhung with much + higher hills, looking, according to the accounts of our Hottentots, as + they eyed the fine herds of cattle grazing on the slopes, so like the + range in Kafraria, that they formed their expectations accordingly, and + appeared, for the first time since leaving the coast, happy at the + prospect before them, little dreaming that such rich places were seldom to + be met with. The Wanyamuezi porters even thought they had found a + paradise, and forthwith threw down their loads as the villagers came to + offer them grain for sale; so that, had I not had the Wanguana a little + under control, we should not have completed our distance that day, and so + reached Manyonge, which reminded me, by its ugliness, of the sterile + Somali land. Proceeding through the semi-desert rolling table-land—in + one place occupied by men who build their villages in large open squares + of flat-topped mud huts, which, when I have occasion to refer to them in + future, I shall call by their native name tembe—we could see on the + right hand the massive mountains overhanging the Mukondokua river, to the + front the western chain of these hills, and to the left the high crab-claw + shaped ridge, which, extending from the western chain, circles round + conspicuously above the swelling knolls which lie between the two main + rocky ridges. Contorted green thorn-trees, "elephant-foot" stumps, and + aloes, seem to thrive best here, by their very nature indicating what the + country is, a poor stony land. Our camp was pitched by the river Rumuma, + where, sheltered from the winds, and enriched by alluvial soil, there + ought to have been no scarcity; but still the villagers had nothing to + sell. + </p> + <p> + On we went again to Marenga Mkhaili, the "Salt Water," to breakfast, and + camped in the crooked green thorns by night, carrying water on for our + supper. This kind of travelling—forced marches—hard as it may + appear, was what we liked best, for we felt that we were shortening the + journey, and in doing so, shortening the risks of failure by disease, by + war, by famine, and by mutiny. We had here no grasping chiefs to detain us + for presents, nor had our men time to become irritable and truculent, + concoct devices for stopping the way, or fight amongst themselves. + </p> + <p> + On again, and at last we arrived at the foot of the western chain; but not + all together. Some porters, overcome by heat and thirst, lay scattered + along the road, while the corporal of the Hottentots allowed his mule to + stray from him, never dreaming the animal would travel far from his + comrades, and, in following after him, was led such a long way into the + bush, that my men became alarmed for his safety, knowing as they did that + the "savages" were out living like monkeys on the calabash fruit, and + looking out for any windfalls, such as stragglers worth plundering, that + might come in their way. At first the Wanguana attempted to track down the + corporal; but finding he would not answer their repeated shots, and + fearful for their own safety, they came into camp and reported the case. + Losing no time, I ordered twenty men, armed with carbines, to carry water + for the distressed porters, and bring the corporal back as soon as + possible. They all marched off, as they always do on such exploits, in + high good-humour with themselves for the valour which they intended to + show; and in the evening came in, firing their guns in the most reckless + manner, beaming with delight; for they had the corporal in tow, two men + and two women captives, and a spear as a trophy. Then in high impatience, + all in a breath, they began a recital of the great day's work. The + corporal had followed on the spoor of the mule, occasionally finding some + of his things that had been torn from the beast's back by the thorns, and, + picking up these one by one, had become so burdened with the weight of + them, that he could follow no farther. In this fix the twenty men came up + with him, but not until they had had a scrimmage with the "savages," had + secured four, and taken the spear which had been thrown at them. Of the + mule's position no one could give an opinion, save that they imagined, in + consequence of the thickness of the bush, he would soon become + irretrievably entangled in the thicket, where the savages would find him, + and bring him in as a ransom for the prisoners. + </p> + <p> + What with the diminution of our supplies, the famished state of the + country, and the difficulties which frowned upon us in advance, together + with unwillingness to give up so good a mule, with all its gear and + ammunition, I must say I felt doubtful as to what had better be done, + until the corporal, who felt confident he would find the beast, begged so + hard that I sent him in command of another expedition of sixteen men, + ordering him to take one of the prisoners with him to proclaim to his + brethren that we would give up the rest if they returned us the mule. The + corporal then led off his band to the spot where he last saw traces of the + animal, and tracked on till sundown; while Grant and myself went out + pot-hunting and brought home a bag consisting of one striped eland, one + saltiana antelope, four guinea-fowl, four ringdoves, and one partridge—a + welcome supply, considering we were quite out of flesh. + </p> + <p> + Next day, as there were no signs of the trackers, I went again to the + place of the elands, wounded a fine male, but gave up the chase, as I + heard the unmistakable gun-firing return of the party, and straightway + proceeded to camp. Sure enough, there they were; they had tracked the + animal back to Marenga Mkhali, through jungle—for he had not taken + to the footpath. Then finding he had gone on, they returned quite tired + and famished. To make the most of a bad job, I now sent Grant on to the + Robeho (or windy) Pass, on the top of the western chain, with the mules + and heavy baggage, and directions to proceed thence across the brow of the + hill the following morning, while I remained behind with the tired men, + promising to join him by breakfast-time. I next released the prisoners, + much to their disgust, for they had not known such good feeding before, + and dreaded being turned adrift again in the jungles to live on calabash + seeds; and then, after shooting six guinea-fowl, turned in for the night. + </p> + <p> + Betimes in the morning we were off, mounting the Robeho, a good stiff + ascent, covered with trees and large blocks of granite, excepting only + where cleared for villages; and on we went rapidly, until at noon the + advance party was reached, located in a village overlooking the great + interior plateau—a picture, as it were, of the common type of + African scenery. Here, taking a hasty meal, we resumed the march all + together, descended the great western chain, and, as night set in, camped + in a ravine at the foot of it, not far from the great junction-station + Ugogi, where terminate the hills of Usagara. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV. Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali + </h2> + <p> + The Lie of the Country—Rhinoceros-Stalking—Scuffle of + Villagers over a Carcass—Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors—Buffalo-Shooting— + Getting Lost—A Troublesome Sultan—Desertions from the Camp—Getting + Plundered—Wilderness March—Diplomatic Relations with the Local + Powers—Manua Sera's Story—Christmas—The Relief from Kaze + </p> + <p> + This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more level + lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we first stopped to + breakfast at the quiet little settlement of Inenge, where cattle were + abundant, but grain so scarce that the villagers were living on calabash + seeds. Proceeding thence across fields delightfully checkered with fine + calabash and fig trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny jungles, + until dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest and push on + again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline water) to + breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained. Carrying + water with us, we next marched half-way to the first settlement of Ugogo, + and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our store of Mbumi grain. + </p> + <p> + At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were not in + lands of plenty—for the Wagogo we found, like their neighbours + Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save their small stores of + grain. + </p> + <p> + The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be crossed, + for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling ground, sloping + southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great drain running from west + to east, carrying off all the rainwaters that fall in its neighbourhood + through the East Coast Range to the sea. To the northward can be seen some + low hills, which are occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe of the warlike Masai; + and on the west is the large forest-wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo, + lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills, is comparatively sterile. + Small outcrops of granite here and there poke through the surface, which, + like the rest of the rolling land, being covered with bush, principally + acacias, have a pleasing appearance after the rains have set in, but are + too brown and desert-looking during the rest of the year. Large prairies + of grass also are exposed in many places, and the villagers have laid much + ground bare for agricultural purposes. + </p> + <p> + Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with the natives + who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the Wasagara, carry arms, + intended for use rather than show. The men, indeed, are never seen without + their usual arms—the spear, the shield, and the assage. They live in + flat-topped, square, tembe villages, wherever springs of water are found, + keep cattle in plenty, and farm enough generally to supply not only their + own wants, but those of the thousands who annually pass in caravans. They + are extremely fond of ornaments, the most common of which is an ugly tube + of the gourd thrust through the lower lobe of the ear. Their colour is a + soft ruddy brown, with a slight infusion of black, not unlike that of a + rich plum. Impulsive by nature, and exceedingly avaricious, they pester + travellers beyond all conception, by thronging the road, jeering, + quizzing, and pointing at them; and in camp, by intrusively forcing their + way into the midst of the kit, and even into the stranger's tent. + Caravans, in consequence, never enter their villages, but camp outside, + generally under the big "gouty-limbed" trees—encircling their entire + camp sometimes with a ring-fence of thorns to prevent any sudden attack. + </p> + <p> + To resume the thread of the journey: we found, on arrival in Ugogo, very + little more food than in Usagara for the Wagogo were mixing their small + stores of grain with the monkey-bread seeds of the gouty-limbed tree. + Water was so scarce in the wells at this season that we had to buy it at + the normal price of country beer; and, as may be imagined where such + distress in food was existing, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls were also + selling at high rates. + </p> + <p> + Our mules here gave us the slip again, and walked all the way back to + Marenga Mkhali, where they were found and brought back by some Wagogo, who + took four yards of merikani in advance, with a promise of four more on + return, for the job—their chief being security for their fidelity. + This business detained us two days, during which time I shot a new variety + of florikan, peculiar in having a light blue band stretching from the nose + over the eye to the occiput. Each day, while we resided here, cries were + raised by the villagers that the Wahumba were coming, and then all the + cattle out in the plains, both far and near, were driven into the village + for protection. + </p> + <p> + At last, on the 26th, as the mules were brought it, I paid a hongo or tax + of four barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief, and departed, but + not until one of my porters, a Mhehe, obtained a fat dog for his dinner; + he had set his heart on it, and would not move until he had killed it, and + tied it on to his load for the evening's repast. Passing through the next + villages—a collection called Kifukuro—we had to pay another + small tax of two barsati and four yards of chintz to the chief. There we + breakfasted, and pushed on, carrying water to a bivouac in the jungles, as + the famine precluded our taking the march more easily. + </p> + <p> + Pushing on again, we cleared out of the woods, and arrived at the eastern + border of the largest clearance of Ugogo, Kanyenye. Here we were forced to + halt a day, as the mules were done up, and eight of the Wanyamuezi porters + absconded, carrying with them the best part of their loads. There was also + another inducement for stopping here; for, after stacking the loads, as we + usually did on arriving in camp, against a large gouty-limbed tree, a + hungry Mgogo, on eyeing our guns, offered his services to show us some + bicornis rhinoceros, which, he said paid nightly visits to certain bitter + pools that lay in the nullah bottoms not far off. This exciting + intelligence made me inquire if it was not possible to find them at once; + but, being assured that they lived very far off, and that the best chance + was the night, I gave way, and settled on starting at ten, to arrive at + the ground before the full moon should rise. + </p> + <p> + I set forth with the guide and two of the sheikh's boys, each carrying a + single rifle, and ensconced myself in the nullah, to hide until our + expected visitors should arrive, and there remained until midnight. When + the hitherto noisy villagers turned into bed, the silvery moon shed her + light on the desolate scene, and the Mgogo guide, taking fright, bolted. + He had not, however, gone long, when, looming above us, coming over the + horizon line, was the very animal we wanted. + </p> + <p> + In a fidgety manner the beast then descended, as if he expected some + danger in store—and he was not wrong; for, attaching a bit of white + paper to the fly-sight of my Blissett, I approached him, crawling under + cover of the banks until within eighty yards of him, when, finding that + the moon shone full on his flank, I raised myself upright and planted a + bullet behind his left shoulder. Thus died my first rhinoceros. + </p> + <p> + To make the most of the night, as I wanted meat for my men to cook, as + well as a stock to carry with them, or barter with the villagers for + grain, I now retired to my old position, and waited again. + </p> + <p> + After two hours had elapsed, two more rhinoceros approached me in the same + stealthy, fidgety way as the first one. They came even closer than the + first, but, the moon having passed beyond their meridian, I could not + obtain so clear a mark. Still they were big marks, and I determined on + doing my best before they had time to wind us; so stepping out, with the + sheikh's boys behind me carrying the second rifle to meet all emergencies, + I planted a ball in the larger one, and brought him round with a roar and + whooh-whooh, exactly to the best position I could wish for receiving a + second shot; but, alas! on turning sharply round for the spare rifle, I + had the mortification to see that both the black boys had made off, and + were scrambling like monkeys up a tree. At the same time the rhinoceros, + fortunately for me, on second consideration turned to the right-about, and + shuffled away, leaving, as is usually the case when conical bullets are + used, no traces of blood. + </p> + <p> + Thus ended the night's work. We now went home by dawn to apprise all the + porters that we had flesh in store for them, when the two boys who had so + shamelessly deserted me, instead of hiding their heads, described all the + night's scenes with such capital mimicry as to set the whole camp in a + roar. We had all now to hurry back to the carcass before the Wagogo could + find it; but though this precaution was quickly taken, still, before the + tough skin of the beast could be cut through, the Wagogo began assembling + like vultures, and fighting with my men. A more savage, filthy, + disgusting, but at the same time grotesque, scene than that which followed + cannot be conceived. All fell to work armed with swords, spears, knives, + and hatchets—cutting and slashing, thumping and bawling, fighting + and tearing, tumbling and wrestling up to their knees in filth and blood + in the middle of the carcass. When a tempting morsel fell to the + possession of any one, a stronger neighbour would seize and bear off the + prize in triumph. All right was now a matter or pure might, and lucky it + was that it did not end in a fight between our men and the villagers. + These might be afterwards seen, one by one, covered with blood, scampering + home each with his spoil—a piece of tripe, or liver, or lights, or + whatever else it might have been his fortune to get off with. + </p> + <p> + We were still in great want of men; but rather than stop a day, as all + delays only lead to more difficulties, I pushed on to Magomba's palace + with the assistance of some Wagogo carrying our baggage, each taking one + cloth as his hire. The chief wazir at once come out to meet me on the way, + and in an apparently affable manner, as an old friend, begged that I would + live in the palace—a bait which I did not take, as I knew my friend + by experience a little too well. He then, in the politest possible manner, + told me that a great dearth of food was oppressing the land—so much + so, that pretty cloths only would purchase grain. I now wished to settle + my hongo, but the great chief could not hear of such indecent haste. + </p> + <p> + The next day, too, the chief was too drunk to listen to any one, and I + must have patience. I took out this time in the jungles very profitably, + killing a fine buck and doe antelope, of a species unknown. These animals + are much about the same size and shape as the common Indian antelope, and, + like them, roam about in large herds. The only marked difference between + the two is in the shape of their horns, as may be seen by the woodcut; and + in their colour, in which, in both sexes, the Ugogo antelopes resemble the + picticandata gazelle of Tibet, except that the former have dark markings + on the face. + </p> + <p> + At last, after thousands of difficulties much like those I encountered in + Uzaramo, the hongo was settled by a payment of one kisutu, one dubani, + four yards bendera, four yards kiniki, and three yards merikani. The wazir + then thought he would do some business on his own account, and commenced + work by presenting me with a pot of ghee and flour, saying at the same + time "empty words did not show true love," and hoping that I would prove + mine by making some slight return. To get rid of the animal I gave him the + full value of his present in cloth, which he no sooner pocketed than he + had the audacity to accuse Grant of sacrilege for having shot a lizard on + a holy stone, and demanded four cloths to pay atonement for this offence + against the "church." As yet, he said, the chief was not aware of the + damage done, and it was well he was not; for he would himself, if I only + paid him the four cloths, settle matters quietly, otherwise there would be + no knowing what demands might be made on my cloth. It was necessary to get + up hot temper, else there was no knowing how far he would go; so I + returned him his presents, and told the sheikh, instead of giving four, to + fling six cloths in his face, and tell him that the holy-stone story was + merely a humbug, and I would take care no more white men ever came to see + him again. + </p> + <p> + Some Wanyamuezi porters, who had been left sick here by former caravans, + now wished to take service with me as far as Kaze; but the Wagogo, hearing + of their desire, frightened them off it. A report also at this time was + brought to us, that a caravan had just arrived at our last ground, having + come up from Whindi, direct by the line of the Wami river, in its upper + course called Mukondokua, without crossing a single hill all the way; I + therefore sent three men to see if they had any porters to spare, as it + was said they had; but the three men, although they left their bows and + arrows behind, never came back. + </p> + <p> + Another mule died to-day. This was perplexing indeed, but to stop longer + was useless; so we pushed forward as best we could to a pond at the + western end of the district where we found a party of Makua sportsmen who + had just killed an elephant. They had lived in Ugogo one year and a half, + and had killed in all seventeen elephants; half the tusks of which, as + well as some portion of the flesh, they gave to Magomba for the privilege + of residing there. There were many antelopes there, some of which both + Grant and I shot for the good of the pot, and he also killed a crocute + hyena. From the pond we went on to the middle of a large jungle, and + bivouacked for the night in a shower of rain, the second of the season. + </p> + <p> + During a fierce downpour of rain, the porters all quivering and quaking + with cold, we at length emerged from the jungle, and entered the prettiest + spot in Ugogo—the populous district of Usekhe—where little + hills and huge columns of granite crop out. Here we halted. + </p> + <p> + Next day came the hongo business, which was settled by paying one dubani, + one kitambi, one msutu, four yards merikani, and two yards kiniki; but + whilst we were doing it eight porters ran away, and four fresh ones were + engaged (Wanyamuezi) who had run away from Kanyenye. + </p> + <p> + With one more march from this we reached the last district in Ugogo, + Khoko. Here the whole of the inhabitants turned out to oppose us, + imagining we had come there to revenge the Arab, Mohinna, because the + Wagogo attacked him a year ago, plundered his camp, and drove him back to + Kaze, for having shot their old chief "Short-legs." They, however, no + sooner found out who we were than they allowed us to pass on, and encamp + in the outskirts of the Mgunda Mkhali wilderness. To this position in the + bush I strongly objected, on the plea that guns could be best used against + arrows in the open; but none would go out in the field, maintaining that + the Wagogo would fear to attack us so far from their villages, as we now + were, lest we might cut them off in their retreat. + </p> + <p> + Hori Hori was now chief in Short-leg's stead, and affected to be much + pleased that we were English, and not Arabs. He told us we might, he + thought, be able to recruit all the men that we were in want of, as many + Wanyanuezi who had been left there sick wished to go to their homes; and I + would only, in addition to their wages, have to pay their "hotel bills" to + the Wagogo. This, of course, I was ready to do, though I knew the + Wanyamuezi had paid for themselves, as is usual, by their work in the + fields of their hosts. Still, as I should be depriving these of hands, I + could scarcely expect to get off for less than the value of a slave for + each, and told Sheikh said to look out for some men at once, whilst at the + same time he laid in provisions of grain to last us eight days in the + wilderness, and settle the hongo. + </p> + <p> + For this triple business, I allowed three days, during which time, always + eager to shoot something, either for science or the pot, I killed a + bicornis rhinoceros, at a distance of five paces only, with my small + 40-gauge Lancaster, as the beast stood quietly feeding in the bush; and I + also shot a bitch fox of the genus Octocyon lalandii, whose ill-omened cry + often alarms the natives by forewarning them of danger. This was rather + tame sport; but next day I had better fun. + </p> + <p> + Starting in the early morning, accompanied by two of Sheikh Said's boys, + Suliman and Faraj, each carrying a rifle, while I carried a shot-gun, we + followed a footpath to the westward in the wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali. + There, after walking a short while in the bush, as I heard the grunt of a + buffalo close on my left, I took "Blissett" in hand, and walked to where I + soon espied a large herd quietly feeding. They were quite unconscious of + my approach, so I took a shot at a cow, and wounded her; then, after + reloading, put a ball in a bull and staggered him also. This caused great + confusion among them; but as none of the animals knew where the shots came + from, they simply shifted about in a fidgety manner, allowing me to kill + the first cow, and even fire a fourth shot, which sickened the great bull, + and induced him to walk off, leaving the herd to their fate, who, + considerably puzzled, began moving off also. + </p> + <p> + I now called up the boys, and determined on following the herd down before + either skinning the dead cow or following the bull, who I knew could not + go far. Their footprints being well defined in the moist sandy soil, we + soon found the herd again; but as they now knew they were pursued, they + kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally gaining + glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the bush, I + repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some less + severely. This was very provoking; for all of them being stern shots were + not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not get a front + view of them. Presently, however, one with her hind leg broken pulled up + on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down with a charge the + instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the rifle rolled her + over, and gave me free scope to improve the bag, which was very soon done; + for on following the spoors, the traces of blood led us up to another one + as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet in the flank, and, after + hobbling a little, evaded our sight and threw himself into a bush, where + we not sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us from his ambush, + just, and only just, giving me time to present my small 40-gauge + Lancaster. + </p> + <p> + It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of a + monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately + over the beast, whilst Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to + polish him off. There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant + more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun, + and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of + one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at + my feet as dead as a rabbit. Now, having cut the beast's throat to make + him "hilal," according to Mussulman usage, and thinking we had done enough + if I could only return to the first wounded bull and settle him too, we + commenced retracing our steps, and by accident came on Grant. He was + passing by from another quarter, and became amused by the glowing + description of my boys, who never omitted to narrate their own cowardice + as an excellent tale. He begged us to go on in our course, whilst he would + go back and send us some porters to carry home the game. + </p> + <p> + Now, tracking back again to the first point of attack, we followed the + blood of the first bull, till at length I found him standing like a stuck + pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of his + miseries. Taking compassion, I levelled my Blisset; but, as bad luck would + have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet, and it went + "pinging" into the air, whilst the big bull went off at a gallop. To + follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes + more, as I opened on a small clearance, Blisset in hand, the great beast, + from the thicket on the opposite side, charged down like a mad bull, full + of ferocity—as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the front of + his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately stood + between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly at his + flank, but without the effect of stopping him; for, as quick as thought, + the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of my + gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the height of his + head that he could not see me, though I was so close that I might, had I + been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head. This was a + predicament which looked very ugly, for my boys had both bolted, taking + with them my guns; but suddenly the beast, evidently regarding the smoke + as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned round in a bustle, to my + intense relief, and galloped off at full speed, as if scared by some + terrible apparition. + </p> + <p> + O what would I not then have given for a gun, the chance was such a good + one! Still, angry though I was, I could not help laughing as the dastardly + boys came into the clearance full of their mimicry, and joked over the + scene they had witnessed in security, whilst my life was in jeopardy + because they were too frightened to give me my gun. But now came the worst + part of the day; for, though rain was falling, I had not the heart to + relinquish my game. Tracking on through the bush, I thought every minute I + should come up with the brute; but his wounds ceased to bleed, and in the + confusion of the numerous tracks which scored all the forest we lost our + own. + </p> + <p> + Much disappointed at this, I now proposed to make for the track we came by + in the morning, and follow it down into camp; but this luxury was not + destined to be our lot that night, for the rain had obliterated all our + footprints of the morning, and we passed the track, mistaking it for the + run of wild beasts. It struck me we had done so; but say what I would, the + boys thought they knew better; and the consequence was that, after + wandering for hours no one knew where—for there was no sun to guide + us—I pulled up, and swore I would wait for the stars, else it might + be our fate to be lost in the wilderness, which I did not much relish. We + were all at this time "hungry as hunters," and beginning to feel very + miserable from being wet through. What little ammunition I had left I + fired off as signals, or made tinder of to get up a fire, but the wood + would not burn. In this hapless condition the black boys began murmuring, + wishing to go on, pretending, though both held opposite views, that each + knew the way; for they thought nothing could be worse than their present + state of discomfort. + </p> + <p> + Night with its gloom was then drawing on, heightened by thunder and + lightning, which set in all around us. At times we thought we heard + musketry in camp, knowing that Grant would be sure to fire signals for us; + and doubtless we did so, but its sound and the thunder so much resembled + one another that we distrusted our ears. At any rate, the boys mistook the + west for the east; and as I thought they had done so, I stood firm to one + spot, and finally lay down with them to sleep upon the cold wet ground, + where we slept pretty well, being only disturbed occasionally by some + animals sniffing at our feet. As the clouds broke towards morning, my + obstinate boys still swore that west was east, and would hardly follow me + when tracking down Venus; next up rose the moon and then followed the sun, + when, as good luck would have it, we struck on the track, and walked + straight into camp. + </p> + <p> + Here every one was in a great state of excitement: Grant had been making + the men fire volleys. The little sheikh was warmly congratulatory as he + spoke of the numbers who had strayed away and had been lost in that + wilderness; whilst Bombay admitted he thought we should turn up again if I + did not listen to the advice of the boys, which was his only fear. Nothing + as yet, I now found, had been done to further our march. The hongo, the + sheikh said, had to precede everything; yet that had not been settled, + because the chief deferred it the day of our arrival, on the plea that it + was the anniversary of Short-legs's death; and he also said that till then + all the Wagogo had been in mourning by ceasing to wear all their brass + bracelets and other ornaments, and they now wished to solemnise the + occasion by feasting and renewing their finery. This being granted, the + next day another pretext for delay was found, by the Wahumba having made a + raid on their cattle, which necessitated the chief and all his men turning + out to drive them away; and to-day nothing could be attended to, as a + party of fugitive Wanyamuezi had arrived and put them all in a fright. + These Wanyamuezi, it then transpired, were soldiers of Manua Sera, the + "Tippler," who was at war with the Arabs. He had been defeated at Mguru, a + district in Unyamuezi, by the Arabs, and had sent these men to cut off the + caravan route, as the best way of retaliation that lay in his power. + </p> + <p> + At last the tax having been settled by the payment of one dubani, two + barsati, one sahari, six yards merikani, and three yards kiniki (not, + however, until I had our tents struck, and threatened to march away if the + chief would not take it), I proposed going on with the journey, for our + provisions were stored, but when the loads were being lifted, I found ten + more men were missing; and as nothing now could be done but throw ten + loads away, which seemed to great a sacrifice to be made in a hurry, I + simply changed ground to show we were ready to march, and sent my men + about, either to try to induce the fugitive Wanyamuezi to take service + with me or else to buy donkeys, as the chief said he had some to sell. + </p> + <p> + We had already been here too long. A report was now spread that a lion had + killed one of the chief's cows; and the Wagogo, suspecting that our being + here was the cause of this ill luck, threatened to attack us. This no + sooner got noised over the camp than all my Wanyamuezi porters, who had + friends in Ugogo, left to live with them, and would not come back again + even when the "storm had blown over," because they did not like the + incessant rains that half deluged the camp. The chief, too, said he would + not sell us his donkeys, lest we should give them back to Mohinna, from + whom they were taken during his fight here. Intrigues of all sorts I could + see were brewing, possibly at the instigation of the fugitive Wanyamuezi, + who suspected we were bound to side with the Arabs—possibly from + some other cause, I could not tell what; so, to clear out of this + pandemonium as soon as possible I issued cloths to buy double rations, + intending to cross the wilderness by successive relays in double the + ordinary number of days. I determined at the same time to send forward two + freed men to Kaze to ask Musa and the Arabs to send me out some provisions + and men to meet us half-way. + </p> + <p> + Matters grew worse and worse. The sultan, now finding me unable to move, + sent a message to say if I would not give him some better cloths to make + his hongo more respectable, he would attack my camp; and advised all the + Wanyamuezi who regarded their lives not to go near me if I resisted. This + was by no means pleasant; for the porters showed their uneasiness by + extracting their own cloths from my bundles, under the pretext that they + wished to make some purchases of their own. I ought, perhaps, to have + stopped this; but I thought the best plan was to show total indifference; + so, at the same time that they were allowed to take their cloths, I + refused to comply with the chief's request, and begged them to have no + fear so long as they saw I could hold my own ground with my guns. + </p> + <p> + The Wanyamuezi, however, were panic-stricken, and half of them bolted, + with the kirangozi at their head, carrying off all the double-ration + cloths as well as their own. At this time, the sultan, having changed + tactics, as he saw us all ready to stand on the defensive, sent back his + hongo; but, instead of using threats, said he would oblige us with donkeys + or anything else if we would only give him a few more pretty cloths. With + this cringing, perfidious appeal I refused to comply, until the sheikh, + still more cringing, implored me to give way else not a single man would + remain with me. I then told him to settle with the chief himself, and give + me the account, which amounted to three barsati, two sahari, and three + yards merikani; but the donkeys were never alluded to. + </p> + <p> + With half my men gone, I still ordered the march, though strongly opposed + to the advice of one of old Mamba's men, who was then passing by on his + way to the coast, in command of his master's rear detachment. He thought + it impossible for us to pull through the wilderness, with its jungle + grasses and roots, depending for food only on Grant's gun and my own; + still we made half-way to the Mdaburu nullah, taking some of Mamba's out + to camp with us, as he promised to take letters and specimens down to the + coast for us, provided I paid him some cloths as ready money down, and + promised some more to be paid at Zanzibar. These letters eventually + reached home, but not the specimens. + </p> + <p> + The rains were so heavy that the whole country was now flooded, but we + pushed on to the nullah by relays, and pitched on its left bank. In the + confusion of the march, however, we lost many more porters, who at the + same time relieved us of their loads, by slipping off stealthily into the + bush. + </p> + <p> + The fifteenth was a forced halt, as the stream was so deep and so violent + we could not cross it. To make the best of this very unfortunate + interruption, I now sent on two men to Kaze, with letters to Musa and + Sheikh Snay, both old friends on the former expedition, begging them to + send me sixty men, each carrying thirty rations of grain, and some country + tobacco. The tobacco was to gratify my men, who said of all things they + most wanted to cheer them was something to smoke. At the same time I sent + back some other men to Khoko, with cloth to buy grain for present + consumption, as some of my porters were already reduced to living on wild + herbs and white ants. I then sent all the remaining men, under the + directions of Bombay and Baraka, to fell a tall tree with hatchets, on the + banks of the nullah, with a view to bridging it; but the tree dropped to + the wrong side, and thwarted the plan. The rain ceased on the 17th, just + as we put the rain-gauge out, which was at once interpreted to be our + Uganga, or religious charm, and therefore the cause of its ceasing. It was + the first fine day for a fortnight, so we were only too glad to put all + our things out to dry, and rejoiced to think of the stream's subsiding. My + men who went back to Khoko for grain having returned with next to nothing—though, + of course, they had spent all the cloths—I sent back another batch + with pretty cloths, as it was confidently stated that grain was so scarce + there, nothing but the best fabrics would but it. This also proved a dead + failure; but although animals were very scarce, Grant relieved our anxiety + by shooting a zebra and an antelope. + </p> + <p> + After five halts, we forded the stream, middle deep, and pushed forwards + again, doing short stages of four or five miles a-day, in the greatest + possible confusion; for, whilst Grant and I were compelled to go out + shooting all day for the pot, the sheikh and Bombay went on with the first + half of the property and then, keeping guard over it sent the men back + again to Baraka, who kept rear-guard, to have the rest brought on. Order + there was none: the men hated this "double work;" all the Wanyamuezi but + three deserted, with the connivance of the coast-men, carrying off their + loads with them, under a mutual understanding, as I found out afterwards, + that the coast-men were to go shares in the plunder as soon as we reached + Unyamuezi. The next great obstacle in this tug-and-pull wilderness-march + presented itself on the 24th, when, after the first half of the property + had crossed the Mabunguru nullah, it rose in flood and cut off the rear + half. It soon, however, subsided; and the next day we reached "the + Springs," where we killed a pig and two rhinoceros. Not content, however, + with this fare—notwithstanding the whole camp had been living + liberally on zebra's and antelope's flesh every day previously—some + of my coast-men bolted on to the little settlement of Jiwa la Mkoa, + contrary to orders, to purchase some grain; and in doing so, increased our + transport difficulties. + </p> + <p> + Pulling on in the same way again—when not actually engaged in + shooting, scolding and storming at the men, to keep them up to the mark, + and prevent them from shirking their work, which they were for every + trying to do—we arrived on the 28th at the "Boss," a huge granite + block, from the top of which the green foliage of the forest-trees looked + like an interminable cloud, soft and waving, fit for fairies to dwell + upon. Here the patience of my men fairly gave way, for the village of Jiwa + la Mkoa was only one long march distance from us; and they, in + consequence, smelt food on in advance much sweeter than the wild game and + wild grasses they had been living on; and many more of them could not + resist deserting us, though they might, had we all pulled together, have + gone more comfortably in, as soon as the rear property arrived next day + with Baraka. + </p> + <p> + All the men who deserted on the 25th, save Johur and Mutwana, now came + into camp, and told us they had heard from travellers that those men who + had been sent on for reliefs to Kaze were bringing us a large detachment + of slaves to help us on. My men had brought no food either for us or their + friends, as the cloths they took with them, "which were their own," were + scarcely sufficient to purchase a meal—famines being as bad where + they had been as in Ugogo. To try and get all the men together again, I + now sent off a party loaded with cloths to see what they could get for us; + but they returned on the 30th grinning and joking, with nothing but a + small fragment of goat-flesh, telling lies by the dozens. Johur then came + into camp, unconscious that Baraka by my orders had, during his absence, + been inspecting his kit, where he found concealed seventy-three yards of + cloth, which could only have been my property, as Johur had brought no + akaba or reserve fund from the coast. + </p> + <p> + The theft having been proved to the satisfaction of every one, I ordered + Baraka to strip him of everything and give him three dozen lashes; but + after twenty-one had been given, the rest were remitted on his promising + to turn Queen's evidence, when it transpired that Mutwana had done as much + as himself. Johur, it turned out, was a murderer, having obtained his + freedom by killing his master. He was otherwise a notoriously bad + character; so, wishing to make an example, as I knew all my men were + robbing me daily, though I could not detect them, I had him turned out of + camp. Baraka was a splendid detective, and could do everything well when + he wished it, so I sent him off now with cloths to see what he could to at + Jiwa la Mkoa, and next day he returned triumphantly driving in cows and + goats. Three Wanyamuezi, also, who heard we were given to shooting wild + animals continually, came with him to offer their services as porters. + </p> + <p> + As nearly all the men had now returned, Grant and I spent New Year's Day + with the first detachment at Jiwa la Mkoa, or Round Rock—a single + tembe village occupied by a few Wakimbu settlers, who, by their presence + and domestic habits, made us feel as though we were well out of the wood. + So indeed we found it; for although this wilderness was formerly an entire + forest of trees and wild animals, numerous Wakimbu, who formerly occupied + the banks of the Ruaha to the southward, had been driven to migrate here, + wherever they could find springs of water, by the boisterous naked + pastorals the Warori. + </p> + <p> + At night three slaves belonging to Sheikh Salem bin Saif stole into our + camp, and said they had been sent by their master to seek for porters at + Kaze, as all the Wanyamuezi porters of four large caravans had deserted in + Ugogo, and they could not move. I was rather pleased by this news, and + thought it served the merchants right, knowing, as I well did, that the + Wanyamuezi, being naturally honest, had they not been defrauded by + foreigners on the down march to the coast, would have been honest still. + Some provisions were now obtained by sending men out to distant villages; + but we still supplied the camp with our guns, killing rhinoceros, wild + boar, antelope, and zebras. The last of our property did not come up till + the 5th, when another thief being caught, got fifty lashes, under the + superintendence of Baraka, to show that punishment was only inflicted to + prevent further crime. + </p> + <p> + The next day my men came from Kaze with letters from Sheikh Snay and Musa. + They had been detained there some days after arrival, as those merchants' + slaves had gone to Utambara to settle some quarrel there; but as soon as + they returned, Musa ordered them to go and assist us, giving them beads to + find rations for themselves on the way, as the whole country about Kaze + had been half-starved by famines, though he did send a little rice and + tobacco for me. The whole party left Kaze together; but on arrival at Tura + the slaves said they had not enough beads and would return for some more, + when they would follow my men. This bit of news was the worst that could + have befallen us; my men were broken-hearted enough before, and this drove + the last spark of spirit out of them. To make the best of a bad job, I now + sent Bombay with two other men off to Musa to see what he could do, and + ordered my other men to hire Wakimbu from village to village. On the 7th, + a nervous excitement was produced in the camp by some of my men running in + and calling all to arm, as the fugitive chief Manua Sera was coming, with + thirty armed followers carrying muskets. Such was the case: and by the + time my men were all under arms, with their sword-bayonets fixed, drawn up + by my tent the veritable "Tippler" arrived; but, not liking the look of + such a formidable array as my men presented, he passed on a short way, and + then sent back a deputation to make known his desire of calling on me, + which was no sooner complied with than he came in person, attended by a + body-guard. On my requesting him to draw near and sit, his wooden stool + was placed for him. He began the conversation by telling me he had heard + of my distress from want of porters, and then offered to assist me with + some, provided I would take him to Kaze, and mediate between him and the + Arabs; for, through their unjustifiable interference in his government + affairs, a war had ensued, which terminated with the Arabs driving him + from his possessions a vagabond. Manua Sera, I must say, was as fine a + young man as ever I looked upon. He was very handsome, and looked as I now + saw him the very picture of a captain of the banditti of the romances. I + begged him to tell me his tale, and, in compliance, he gave me the + following narrative:— + </p> + <p> + "Shortly after you left Kaze for England, my old father, the late chief + Fundi Kira, died, and by his desire I became lawful chief; for, though the + son of a slave girl, and not of Fundi Kira's wife, such is the law of + inheritance—a constitutional policy established to prevent any + chance of intrigues between the sons born in legitimate wedlock. Well, + after assuming the title of chief, I gave presents of ivory to all the + Arabs with a liberal hand, but most so to Musa, which caused great + jealousy amongst the other merchants. Then after this I established a + property tax on all merchandise that entered my country. Fundi Kira had + never done so, but I did not think that any reason why I should not, + especially as the Arabs were the only people who lived in my country + exempt from taxation. This measure, however, exasperated the Arabs, and + induced them to send me hostile messages, to the effect that, if I ever + meddled with them, they would dethrone me, and place Mkisiwa, another + illegitimate son, on the throne in my stead. This," Manua Sera continued, + "I could not stand; the merchants were living on sufferance only in my + country. I told them so, and defied them to interfere with my orders, for + I was not a 'woman,' to be treated with contempt; and this got up a + quarrel. Mkisiwa, seizing at the opportunity of the prize held out to him + by the Arabs as his supporters, then commenced a system of bribery. Words + led to blows; we had a long and tough fight; I killed many of their + number, and they killed mine. Eventually they drove me from my palace, and + placed Mkisiwa there as chief in my stead. My faithful followers however, + never deserted me; so I went to Rubuga, and put up with old Maula there. + The Arabs followed—drove me to Nguru, and tried to kill Maula for + having fostered me. He, however, escaped them; but they destroyed his + country, and then followed me down to Nguru. There we fought for many + months, until all provisions were exhausted, when I defied them to catch + me, and forced my way through their ranks. It is needless to say I have + been a wanderer since; and though I wish to make friends, they will not + allow it, but do all they can to hunt me to death. Now, as you were a + friend of my father, I do hope you will patch up this war for me, which + you must think is unjust." + </p> + <p> + I told Manua Sera I felt very much for him, and I would do my best if he + would follow me to Kaze; but I knew that nothing could ever be done unless + he returned to the free-trade principles of his father. He then said he + had never taken a single tax from the Arabs, and would gladly relinquish + his intention to do so. The whole affair was commenced in too great a + hurry; but whatever happened he would gladly forgive all if I would use my + influence to reinstate him, for by no other means could he ever get his + crown back again. I then assured him that I would do what I could to + restore the ruined trade of his country, observing that, as all the ivory + that went out of his country, came to ours, and all imports were + productions of our country also, this war injured us as well as himself. + Manua Sera seemed highly delighted, and said he had a little business to + transact in Ugogo at present, but he would overtake me in a few days. He + then sent me one of my runaway porters, whom he had caught in the woods + making off with a load of my beads. We then separated; and Baraka, by my + orders, gave the thief fifty lashes for his double offence of theft and + desertion. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th, having bought two donkeys and engaged several men, we left + Jiwa la Mkoa, with half our traps, and marched to Garaeswi, where, to my + surprise, there were as many as twenty tembes—a recently-formed + settlement of Wokimbu. Here we halted a day for the rear convoy, and then + went on again by detachments to Zimbo, where, to our intense delight, + Bombay returned to us on the 13th, triumphantly firing guns, with seventy + slaves accompanying him, and with letters from Snay and Musa, in which + they said they hoped, if I met with Manua Sera, that I would either put a + bullet through his head, or else bring him in a prisoner, that they might + do for him, for the scoundrel had destroyed all their trade by cutting off + caravans. Their fights with him commenced by his levying taxes in + opposition to their treaties with his father, Fundi Kira, and then + preventing his subjects selling them grain. + </p> + <p> + Once more the whole caravan moved on; but as I had to pay each of the + seventy slaves sixteen yards of cloth, by order of their masters, in the + simple matter of expenditure it would have been better had I thrown ten + loads away at Ugogo, where my difficulties first commenced. On arrival at + Mgongo Thembo—the Elephant's Back—called so in consequence of + a large granitic rock, which resembles the back of that animal, protruding + through the ground—we found a clearance in the forest, of two miles + in extent, under cultivation. Here the first man to meet me was the + fugitive chief of Rubuga, Maula. This poor old man—one of the + honestest chiefs in the country—had been to the former expedition a + host and good friend. He now gave me a cow as a present, and said he would + give me ten more if I would assist him in making friends with the Arabs, + who had driven him out of his country, and had destroyed all his + belongings, even putting a slave to reign in his stead, though he had + committed no fault of intentional injury towards them. It was true Manua + Sera, their enemy, had taken refuge in his palace, but that was not his + fault; for, anticipating the difficulties that would arise, he did his + best to keep Manua Sera out of it, but Manua Sera being too strong for + him, forced his way in. I need not say I tried to console this unfortunate + victim of circumstances as best I could, inviting him to go with me to + Kaze, and promising to protect him with my life if he feared the Arabs; + but the old man, being too feeble to travel himself, said he would send + his son with me. + </p> + <p> + Next day we pushed on a double march through the forest, and reached a + nullah. As it crosses the track in a southerly direction, this might + either be the head of the Kululu mongo or river, which, passing through + the district of Kiwele, drains westward into the Malagarazi river, and + thence into the Tanganyika, or else the most westerly tributary to the + Ruaha river, draining eastward into the sea. The plateau, however, is + apparently so flat here, that nothing b a minute survey, or rather + following the watercourse, could determine the matter. Then emerging from + the wilderness, we came into the open cultivated district of Tura, or "put + down"—called so by the natives because it was, only a few years ago, + the first cleared space in the wilderness, and served as a good + halting-station, after the normal ten day's march in the jungles, where we + had now been struggling more than a month. + </p> + <p> + The whole place, once so fertile, was now almost depopulated and in a sad + state of ruin, showing plainly the savage ravages of war; for the Arabs + and their slaves, when they take the field, think more of plunder and + slavery than the object they started on—each man of the force + looking out for himself. The incentives, too, are so great;—a young + woman might be caught (the greatest treasure of earth), or a boy or a + girl, a cow or a goat—all of the fortunes, of themselves too + irresistible to be overlooked when the future is doubtful. Here Sheikh + Said broke down in health of a complaint which he formerly had suffered + from, and from which I at once saw he would never recover sufficiently + well to be ever effective again. It was a sad misfortune, as the men had + great confidence in him, being the representative of their Zanzibar + government: still it could not be helped; for, as a sick man is, after + all, the greatest possible impediment to a march, it was better to be rid + of him than have the trouble of dragging him; so I made up my mind, as + soon as we reached Kaze, I would drop him there with the Arabs. He could + not be moved on the 16th, so I marched across the plain and put up in some + villages on its western side. Whilst waiting for the sheikh's arrival, + some villagers at night stole several loads of beads, and ran off with + them; but my men, finding the theft out in time, hunted them down, and + recovered all but one load—for the thieves had thrown their loads + down as soon as they found they were hotly pursued. + </p> + <p> + Early this morning I called all the head men of the village together, and + demanded the beads to be restored to me; for, as I was living with them, + they were responsible, according to the laws of the country. They + acknowledged the truth and force of my demand, and said they would each + give me a cow as an earnest, until their chief, who was absent, arrived. + This, of course, was objected to, as the chief, in his absence, must have + deputed some one to govern for him, and I expected him to settle at once, + that I might proceed with the march. Then selecting five of my head men to + conduct the case, with five of their elders, it was considered my losses + were equivalent to thirty head of cattle. As I remitted the penalty to + fifteen head, these were made over to me, and we went on with the march—all + feeling delighted with the issue but the Hottentots, who, not liking the + loss of the second fifteen cows, said that in Kafirland, where the laws of + the country are the same as here, the whole would have been taken, and, as + it was, they thought I was depriving them of their rights to beef. + </p> + <p> + By a double march, the sheikh riding in a hammock slung on a pole, we now + made Kuale, or "Partridge" nullah, which, crossing the road to the + northward, drains these lands to the Malagarazi river, and thence into the + Tanganyika lake. Thence, having spent the night in the jungle, we next + morning pushed into the cultivated district of Rubuga, and put up in some + half-deserted tembes, where the ravages of war were even more disgusting + to witness than at Tura. The chief, as I have said, was a slave, placed + there by the Arabs on the condition that he would allow all traders and + travellers to help themselves without payment as long as they chose to + reside there. In consequence of this wicked arrangement, I found it + impossible to keep my men from picking and stealing. They looked upon + plunder as their fortune and right, and my interference as unjustifiable. + </p> + <p> + By making another morning and evening march, we then reached the western + extremity of this cultivated opening; where, after sleeping the night, we + threaded through another forest to the little clearance of Kigue, and in + one more march through forest arrived in the large and fertile district of + Unyanyembe, the centre of Unyamuezi—the Land of the Moon—within + five miles of Kaze which is the name of a well in the village of Tbora, + now constituted the great central slave and ivory merchants' depot. My + losses up to this date (23d) were as follows:—One Hottentot dead and + five returned; one freeman sent back with the Hottentots, and one flogged + and turned off; twenty-five of Sultan Majid's gardeners deserted; + ninety-eight of the original Wanyamuezi porters deserted; twelve mules and + three donkeys dead. Besides which, more than half of my property had been + stolen; whilst the travelling expenses had been unprecedented, in + consequence of the severity of the famine throughout the whole length of + the march. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V. Unyamuezi + </h2> + <p> + The Country and People of U-n-ya-muezi—Kaze, the Capital—Old + Musa—The Naked Wakidi—The N'yanza, and the Question of the + River Running in or out—The Contest between Mohinna and "Short-legs"—Famine—The + Arabs and Local Wars—The Sultana of Unyambewa—Ungurue "The + Pig"—Pillage. + </p> + <p> + U-n-ya-muezi—Country of Moon—must have been one of the largest + kingdoms in Africa. It is little inferior in size to England, and of much + the same shape, though now, instead of being united, it is cut up into + petty states. In its northern extremities it is known by the appellation + U-sukuma—country north; and in the southern, U-takama—country + south. There are no historical traditions known to the people; neither was + anything ever written concerning their country, as far as we know, until + the Hindus, who traded with the east coast of Africa, opened commercial + dealings with its people in salves and ivory, possibly some time prior to + the birth of our Saviour, when, associated with their name, Men of the + Moon, sprang into existence the Mountains of the Moon. These Men of the + Moon are hereditarily the greatest traders in Africa, and are the only + people who, for love of barter and change, will leave their own country as + porters and go to the coast, and they do so with as much zest as our + country-folk go to a fair. As far back as we can trace they have done + this, and they still do it as heretofore. The whole of their country + ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea-level—a high plateau, + studded with little outcropping hills of granite, between which, in the + valleys, there are numerous fertilising springs of fresh water, and rich + iron ore is found in sandstone. Generally industrious—much more so + than most other negroes—they cultivate extensively, make cloths of + cotton in their own looms, smelt iron and work it up very expertly, build + tembes to live in over a large portion of their country, but otherwise + live in grass huts, and keep flocks and herds of considerable extent. + </p> + <p> + The Wanyamuezi, however, are not a very well-favoured people in physical + appearance, and are much darker than either the Wazaramo or the Wagogo, + though many of their men are handsome and their women pretty; neither are + they well dressed or well armed, being wanting in pluck and gallantry. + Their women, generally, are better dressed than the men. Cloths fastened + round under the arms are their national costume, along with a necklace of + beads, large brass or copper wire armlets, and a profusion of thin + circles, called sambo, made of the giraffe's tail-hairs bound round by the + thinnest iron or copper wire; whilst the men at home wear loin-cloths, but + in the field, or whilst travelling, simply hang a goat-skin over their + shoulders, exposing at least three-fourths of their body in a rather + indecorous manner. In all other respects they ornament themselves like the + women, only, instead of a long coil of wire wound up the arm, they content + themselves with having massive rings of copper or brass on the wrist; and + they carry for arms a spear and bow and arrows. All extract more or less + their lower incisors, and cut a [upside-down V shape] between their two + upper incisors. The whole tribe are desperate smokers, and greatly given + to drink. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th, we all, as many as were left of us, marched into the + merchant's depot, S. lat. 5° 0' 52", and E. long. 33° 1' 34", <a + href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + escorted by Musa, who advanced to meet us, and guided us into his tembe, + where he begged we would reside with him until we could find men to carry + our property on to Karague. He added that he would accompany us; for he + was on the point of going there when my first instalment of property + arrived, but deferred his intention out of respect to myself. He had been + detained at Kaze ever since I last left it in consequence of the Arabs + having provoked a war with Manua Sera, to which he was adverse. For a long + time also he had been a chained prisoner; as the Arabs, jealous of the + favour Manua Sera had shown to him in preference to themselves, basely + accused him of supplying Manua Sera with gunpowder, and bound him hand and + foot "like a slave." It was delightful to see old Musa's face again, and + the supremely hospitable, kind, and courteous manner in which he looked + after us, constantly bringing in all kind of small delicacies, and seeing + that nothing was wanting to make us happy. All the property I had sent on + in advance he had stored away; or rather, I should say, as much as had + reached him, for the road expenses had eaten a great hole in it. + </p> + <p> + Once settled down into position, Sheikh Snay and the whole conclave of + Arab merchants came to call on me. They said they had an army of four + hundred slaves armed with muskets ready to take the field at once to hunt + down Manua Sera, who was cutting their caravan road to pieces, and had + just seized, by their latest reports, a whole convoy of their ammunition. + I begged them strongly to listen to reason, and accept my advice as an old + soldier, not to carry on their guerilla warfare in such a headlong hurry, + else they would be led a dance by Manua Sera, as we had been by Tantia + Topee in India. I advised them to allow me to mediate between them, after + telling them what a favourable interview I had had with Manua Sera and + Maula, whose son was at that moment concealed in Musa's tembe. My advice, + however, was not wanted. Snay knew better than any one how to deal with + savages, and determined on setting out as soon as his army had "eaten + their beef-feast of war." + </p> + <p> + On my questioning him about the Nile, Snay still thought the N'yanza was + the source of the Jub river <a href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" + id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> as he did in our former journey, + but gave way when I told him that vessels frequented the Nile, as this + also coincided with his knowledge of navigators in vessels appearing on + some waters to the northward of Unyoro. In a great hurry he then bade me + good-bye; when, as he thought it would be final, I gave him, in + consideration of his former good services to the last expedition, one of + the gold watches given me by the Indian Government. I saw him no more, + though he and all the other Arabs sent me presents of cows, goats, and + rice, with a notice that they should have gone on their war-oath before, + only, hearing of my arrival, out of due respect to my greatness they + waited to welcome me in. Further, after doing for Manua Sera, they were + determined to go on to Ugogo to assist Salem bin Saif and the other + merchants on, during which, at the same time, they would fight all the + Wagogo who persisted in taking taxes and in harassing caravans. At the + advice of Musa, I sent Maula's son off at night to tell the old chief how + sorry I was to find the Arabs so hot-headed I could not even effect an + arrangement with them. It was a great pity; for Manua Sera was so much + liked by the Wanyamuezi, they would, had they been able, have done + anything to restore him. + </p> + <p> + Next day the non-belligerent Arabs left in charge of the station, headed + by my old friends Abdulla and Mohinna, came to pay their respects again, + recognising in me, as they said, a "personification of their sultan," and + therefore considering what they were doing only due to my rank. They + regretted with myself that Snay was so hot-headed; for they themselves + thought a treaty of peace would have been the best thing for them, for + they were more than half-ruined already, and saw no hope for the future. + Then, turning to geography, I told Abdulla all I had written and lectured + in England concerning his stories about navigators on the N'yanza, which I + explained must be the Nile, and wished to know if I should alter it in any + way: but he said, "Do not; you may depend it will all turn out right;" to + which Musa added, all the people in the north told him that when the + N'yanza rose, the stream rushed with such violence it tore up islands and + floated them away. + </p> + <p> + I was puzzled at this announcement, not then knowing that both the lake + and the Nile, as well as all ponds, were called N'yanza: but we shall see + afterwards that he was right; and it was in consequence of this confusion + in the treatment of distinctly different geographical features under one + common name by these people, that in my former journey I could not + determine where the lake had ended and the Nile began. Abdulla again—he + had done so on the former journey—spoke to me of a wonderful + mountain to the northward of Karague, so high and steep no one could + ascend it. It was, he said, seldom visible, being up in the clouds, where + white matter, snow or hail, often fell. Musa said this hill was in Ruanda, + a much larger country than Urundi; and further, both men said, as they had + said before, that the lands of Usoga and Unyoro were islands, being + surrounded by water; and a salt lake, which was called N'yanza, though not + the great Victoria N'yanza lay on the other said of the Unyoro, from which + direction Rumanika, king of Karague, sometimes got beads forwarded to him + by Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, of a different sort from any brought from + Zanzibar. Moreover, these beads were said to have been plundered from + white men by the Wakidi,—a stark-naked people who live up in trees—have + small stools fixed on behind, always ready for sitting—wear their + hair hanging down as far as the rump, all covered with cowrie-shells—suspend + beads from wire attached to their ears and their lower lips—and wear + strong iron collars and bracelets. + </p> + <p> + This people, I was told, are so fierce in war that no other tribe can + stand against them, though they only fight with short spears. When this + discourse was ended, ever perplexed about the Tanganyika being a still + lake, I enquired of Mohinna and other old friends what they thought about + the Marungu river: did it run into or out of the lake? and they all still + adhered to its running into the lake—which, after all, in my mind, + is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake, making + it one of a chain of lakes leading to the N'yanza, and through it by the + Zambezi into the sea; for all the Arabs on the former journey said the + Rusizi river ran out of the Tanganyika, as also the Kitangule ran out of + the N'yanza, and the Nile ran into it, even though Snay said he thought + the Jub river drained the N'yanza. All these statements were, when + literally translated into English, the reverse of what the speakers, using + a peculiar Arab idiom, meant to say; for all the statements made as to the + flow of rivers by the negroes—who apparently give the same meaning + to "out" and "in" as we do—contradicted the Arabs in their + descriptions of the direction of the flow of these rivers. + </p> + <p> + Mohinna now gave us a very graphic description of his fight with + Short-legs, the late chief of Khoko. About a year ago, as he was making + his way down to the coast with his ivory merchandise, on arrival at Khoko, + and before his camp was fortified with a ring-fence of thorns, some of his + men went to drink at a well, where they no sooner arrived than the natives + began to bean them with sticks, claiming the well as their property. This + commenced a row, which brought out a large body of men, who demanded a + bullock at the point of their spears. Mohinna hearing this, also came to + the well, and said he would not listen to their demand, but would drink as + he wished, for the water was the gift of God. Words then changed to blows. + All Mohinna's pagazis bolted, and his merchandise fell into the hands of + the Wagogo. Had his camp been fortified, he think he would have been too + much for his enemies; but, as it was, he retaliated by shooting Short-legs + in the head, and at once bolted back to Kaze with a few slaves as + followers, and his three wives. + </p> + <p> + The change that had taken place in Unyanyembe since I last left it was + quite surprising. Instead of the Arabs appearing merchants, as they did + formerly, they looked more like great farmers, with huge stalls of cattle + attached to their houses; whilst the native villages were all in ruins—so + much so that, to obtain corn for my men, I had to send out into the + district several days' journey off, and even then had to pay the most + severe famine prices for what I got. The Wanyamuezi, I was assured, were + dying of starvation in all directions; for, in addition to the war, the + last rainy season had been so light, all their crops had failed. + </p> + <p> + 27th and 28th.—I now gave all my men presents for the severe trials + they had experienced in the wilderness, forgetting, as I told them, the + merciless manner in which they had plundered me; but as I have a trifle + more in proportion, to the three sole remaining pagazis, because they had + not finished their work, my men were all discontented, and wished to throw + back their presents, saying I did not love them, although they were + "perminents," as much as the "temperaries." They, however, gave in, after + some hours of futile arguments, on my making them understand, through + Baraka, that what they saw me give to the pagazis would, if they + reflected, only tend to prove to them that I was not a bad master who + forgot his obligations when he could get no more out of his servants. + </p> + <p> + I then went into a long inquiry with Musa about our journey northward to + Karague; and as he said there were no men to be found in or near + Unyanyembe, for they were either all killed or engaged in the war, it was + settled he should send some of his head men on to Rungua, where he had + formerly resided, trading for some years, and was a great favourite with + the chief of the place, by name Kiringuana. He also settled that I might + take out of his establishment of slaves as many men as I could induce to + go with me, for he thought them more trouble than profit, hired porters + being more safe; moreover, he said the plan would be of great advantage to + him, as I offered to pay, both man and master, each the same monthly + stipend as I gave my present men. This was paying double, and all the + heavier a burden, as the number I should require to complete my + establishment to one hundred armed men would be sixty. He, however, very + generously advised me not to take them, as they would give so much + trouble; but finally gave way when I told him I felt I could not advance + beyond Karague unless I was quite independent of the natives there—a + view in which he concurred. + </p> + <p> + 29th and 30th.—Jafu, another Indian merchant here, and co-partner of + Musa, came in from a ten days' search after grain, and described the whole + country to be in the most dreadful state of famine. Wanyamuezi were lying + about dead from starvation in all directions, and he did not think we + should ever get through Usui, as Suwarora, the chief, was so extortionate + he would "tear us to pieces"; but advised our waiting until the war was + settled, when all the Arabs would combine and go with us. Musa even showed + fear, but arranged, at my suggestion, that he should send some men to + Rumanika, informing him of our intention to visit him, and begging, at the + same time, he would use his influence in preventing our being detained in + Usui. + </p> + <p> + I may here explain that the country Uzinza was once a large kingdom, + governed by a king named Ruma, of Wahuma blood. At his death, which took + place in Dagara's time (the present Rumanika's father), the kingdom was + contested by his two sons, Rohinda and Suwarora, but, at the intercession + of Dagara, was divided—Rohinda taking the eastern, called Ukhanga, + and Suwarora the western half of the country, called Usui. This measure + made Usui feudatory to Karague, so that much of the produce of the + extortions committed in Usui went to Karague, and therefore they were + recognised, though the odium always rested on Suwarora, "the savage + extortioner," rather than on the mild-disposed king of Karague, who kept + up the most amicable relations with every one who visited him. + </p> + <p> + Musa, I must say, was most loud in his praises of Rumanika; and on the + other hand, as Musa, eight years ago, had saved Rumanika's throne for him + against an insurrection got up by his younger brother Rogero, Rumanika, + always regarding Musa as his saviour, never lost an opportunity to show + his gratitude, and would have done anything that Musa might have asked + him. Of this matter, however, more in Karague. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—To-day, Jafu, who had lost many ivories at Khoko when Mohinna + was attacked there, prepared 100 slaves, with Said bin Osman, Mohinna's + brother, with a view to follow down Snay, and, combining forces, attack + Hori Hori, hoping to recover their losses; for it appeared to them the + time had now come when their only hope left in carrying their trade to a + successful issue, lay in force of arms. They would therefore not rest + satisfied until they had reduced Khoko and Usekhe both, by actual force, + to acknowledge their superiority, "feeding on them" until the Ramazan, + when they would return with all the merchants detained in Ugogo, and, + again combining their forces, they would fall on Usui, to reduce that + country also. + </p> + <p> + When these men had gone, a lunatic set the whole place in commotion. He + was a slave of Musa's, who had wounded some men previously in his wild + excesses, and had been tied up; but now, breaking loose again, he swore he + would not be satisfied until he killed some "big man." His strength was so + great no one could confine him, though they hunted him into a hut, where, + having seized a gun and some arrows, he defied any one to put hands on + him. Here, however, he was at last reduced to submission and a better + state of his senses by starvation: for I must add, the African is much + give to such mental fits of aberration at certain periods: these are + generally harmless, but sometimes not; but they come and they go again + without any visible cause. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—Musa's men now started for Rungua, and promised to bring all + the porters we wanted by the first day of the next moon. We found that + this would be early enough, for all the members of the expedition, + excepting myself, were suffering from the effects of the wilderness life—some + with fever, some with scurvy, and some with ophthalmia—which made it + desirable they should all have rest. Little now was done besides counting + out my property, and making Sheikh Said, who became worse and worse, + deliver his charge of Cafila Bashi over to Bombay for good. When it was + found so much had been stolen, especially of the best articles, I was + obliged to purchase many things from Musa, paying 400 per cent, which he + said was their value here, over the market price of Zanzibar. I also got + him to have all my coils of brass and copper wire made into bracelet, as + is customary, to please the northern people. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—To-day information was brought here that whilst Manua Sera was + on his way from Ugogo to keep his appointment with me, Sheikh Snay's army + came on him at Tura, where he was ensconced in a tembe. Hearing this, + Snay, instead of attacking the village at once, commenced negotiations + with the chief of the place by demanding him to set free his guest, + otherwise they, the Arabs, would storm the tembe. The chief, + unfortunately, did not comply at once, but begged grace for one night, + saying that if Manua Sera was found there in the morning they might do as + they liked. Of course Manua bolted; and the Arabs, seeing the Tura people + all under arms ready to defend themselves the next morning, set at them in + earnest, and shot, murdered, or plundered the whole of the district. Then, + whilst Arabs were sending in their captures of women, children, and + cattle, Manua Sera made off to a district called Dara, where he formed an + alliance with its chief, Kifunja, and boasted he would attack Kaze as soon + as the travelling season commenced, when the place would be weakened by + the dispersion of the Arabs on their ivory excursions. + </p> + <p> + The startling news set the place in a blaze, and brought all the Arabs + again to seek my advice for they condemned what Snay had done in not + listening to me before, and wished to know if I could not now treat for + them with Manua Sera, which they thought could be easily managed, as Manua + Sera himself was not only the first to propose mediation, but was actually + on his way here for the purpose when Snay opposed him. I said nothing + could give me greater pleasure than mediating for them, to put a stop to + these horrors, but it struck me the case had now gone too far. Snay, in + opposition to my advice, was bent on fighting; he could not be recalled + and unless all the Arabs were of one mind, I ran the risk of committing + myself to a position I could not maintain. To this they replied that the + majority were still at Kaze, all wishing for peace at any price, and that + whatever terms I might wish to dictate they would agree to. Then I said, + "What would you do with Mkisiwa? you have made him chief, and cannot throw + him over." "Oh, that," they said, "can be easily managed; for formerly, + when we confronted Manua Sera at Nguru, we offered to give him as much + territory as his father governed, though not exactly in the same place; + but he treated our message with disdain, not knowing then what a fix he + was in. Now, however, as he has seen more, and wishes for peace himself, + there can be no difficulty." I then ordered two of my men to go with two + of Musa's to acquaint Manua Sera with what we were about, and to know his + views on the subject; but these men returned to say Manua Sera could not + be found, for he was driven from "pillar to post" by the different native + chiefs, as, wherever he went, his army ate up their stores, and brought + nothing but calamities with them. Thus died this second attempted treaty. + Musa then told me it was well it turned out so; for Manua Sera would never + believe the Arabs, as they had broken faith so often before, even after + exchanging blood by cutting incision in one another's legs—the most + sacred bond or oath the natives know of. + </p> + <p> + As nothing more of importance was done, I set out with Grant to have a + week's shooting in the district, under the guidance of an old friend, + Fundi Sangoro, Musa's "head gamekeeper," who assured me that the sable + antelope and blanc boc, specimens of which I had not yet seen, inhabited + some low swampy place called N'yama, or "Meat," not far distant, on the + left bank of the Wale nullah. My companion unfortunately got fever here, + and was prevented from going out, and I did little better; for although I + waded up to my middle every day, and wounded several blanc boc, I only + bagged one, and should not have got even him, had it not happened that + some lions in the night pulled him down close to our camp, and roared so + violently that they told us the story. The first thing in the morning I + wished to have at them; but they took the hint of daybreak to make off, + and left me only the half of the animal. I saw only one sable antelope. We + all went back to Kaze, arriving there on the 24th. + </p> + <p> + 25th to 13th.—Days rolled on, and nothing was done in particular—beyond + increasing my stock of knowledge of distant places and people, enlarging + my zoological collection, and taking long series of astronomical + observations—until the 13th, when the whole of Kaze was depressed by + a sad scene of mourning and tears. Some slaves came in that night—having + made their way through the woods from Ugogo, avoiding the track to save + themselves from detection—and gave information that Snay, Jafu, and + five other Arabs, had been killed, as well as a great number of slaves. + The expedition, they said, had been defeated, and the positions were so + complicated nobody knew what to do. At first the Arabs achieved two + brilliant successes, having succeeded in killing Hori Hori of Khoko, when + they recovered their ivory, made slaves of all they could find, and took a + vast number of cattle; then attacking Usekhe they reduced that place to + submission by forcing a ransom out of its people. At this period, however, + they heard that a whole caravan, carrying 5000 dollars' worth of property, + had been cut up by the people of Mzanza, a small district ten miles north + of Usekhe; so, instead of going on to Kanyenye to relieve the caravans + which were waiting there for them, they foolishly divided their forces + into three parts. Of these they sent one to take their loot back to Kaze, + another to form a reserve force at Mdaburu, on the east flank of the + wilderness, and a third, headed by Snay and Jafu, to attack Mzanza. At the + first onset Snay and Jafu carried everything before them, and became so + excited over the amount of their loot that they lost all feelings of care + or precaution. + </p> + <p> + In this high exuberance of spirits, a sudden surprise turned their + momentary triumph into a total defeat; for some Wahumba, having heard the + cries of the Wagogo, joined in their cause, and both together fell on the + Arab force with such impetuosity that the former victors were now + scattered in all directions. Those who could run fast enough were saved—the + rest were speared to death by the natives. Nobody knew how Jafu fell; but + Snay, after running a short distance, called one of his slaves, and begged + him to take his gun, saying, "I am too old to keep up with you; keep this + gun for my sake, for I will lie down here and take my chance." He never + was seen again. But this was not all their misfortunes; for the slaves who + brought in this information had met the first detachment, sent with the + Khoko loot, at Kigua, where, they said, the detachment had been surprised + by Manua Sera, who, having fortified a village with four hundred men, + expecting this sort of thing, rushed out upon them, and cut them all up. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs, after the first burst of their grief was over, came to me again + in a body, and begged me to assist them, for they were utterly undone. + Manua Sera prevented their direct communication with their detachment at + Mdaburu, and that again was cut off from their caravans at Kanyenye by the + Mzanza people, and in fact all the Wagogo; so they hoped at least I would + not forsake them, which they heard I was going to do, as Manua Sera had + also threatened to attack Kaze. I then told them, finally that their + proposals were now beyond my power, for I had a duty to perform as well as + themselves, and in a day or two I should be off. + </p> + <p> + 14th to 17th.—On the 14th thirty-nine porters were brought in from + Rungua by Musa's men, who said they had collected one hundred and twenty, + and brought them to within ten miles of this, when some travellers + frightened all but thirty-nine away, by telling them, "Are you such fools + as to venture into Kaze now? all the Arabs have been killed, or were being + cut up and pursued by Manua Sera." This sad disappointment threw me on my + "beam-ends." For some reason or other none of Musa's slaves would take + service, and the Arabs prevented theirs from leaving the place, as it was + already too short of hands. To do the best under these circumstances, I + determined on going to Rungua with what kit could be carried, leaving + Bombay behind with Musa until such time as I should arrive there, and, + finding more men, could send them back for the rest. I then gave Musa the + last of the gold watches the Indian Government had given me; <a + href="#linknote-9" name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a> + and, bidding Sheikh Said take all our letters and specimens back to the + coast as soon as the road was found practicable, set out on the march + northwards with Grant and Baraka, and all the rest of my men who were well + enough to carry loads, as well as some of Musa's head men, who knew where + to get porters. + </p> + <p> + After passing Masange and Zimbili, we put up a night in the village of + Iviri, on the northern border of Unyanyembe, and found several officers + there, sent by Mkisiwa, to enforce a levy of soldiers to take the field + with the Arabs at Kaze against Manua Sera; to effect which, they walked + about ringing bells, and bawling out that if a certain percentage of all + the inhabitants did not muster, the village chief would be seized, and + their plantations confiscated. My men all mutinied here for increase of + ration allowances. To find themselves food with, I had given them all one + necklace of beads each per diem since leaving Kaze, in lieu of cloth, + which hitherto had been served out for that purpose. It was a very liberal + allowance, because the Arabs never gave more than one necklace to every + three men, and that, too, of inferior quality to what I served. I brought + them to at last by starvation, and then we went on. Dipping down into a + valley between two clusters of granitic hills, beautifully clothed with + trees and grass, studded here and there with rich plantations, we entered + the district of Usagari, and on the second day forded the Gombe nullah + again—in its upper course, called Kuale. + </p> + <p> + Rising again up to the main level of the plantation, we walked into the + boma of the chief of Unyambewa, Singinya, whose wife was my old friend the + late sultana Ungugu's lady's-maid. Immediately on our entering her palace, + she came forward to meet me with the most affable air of a princess, + begged I would always come to her as I did then, and sought to make every + one happy and comfortable. Her old mistress, she said, died well stricken + in years; and, as she had succeeded her, the people of her country invited + Singinya to marry her, because feuds had arisen about the rights of + succession; and it was better a prince, whom they thought best suited by + birth and good qualities, should head their warriors, and keep all in + order. At that moment Singinya was out in the field fighting his enemies; + and she was sure, when he heard I was here, that he would be very sorry he + had missed seeing me. + </p> + <p> + We next went on to the district of Ukumbi, and put up in a village there, + on approaching which all the villagers turned out to resist us, supposing + we were an old enemy of theirs. They flew about brandishing their spears, + and pulling their bows in the most grotesque attitudes, alarming some of + my porters so much that they threw down their loads and bolted. All the + country is richly cultivated, though Indian corn at that time was the only + grain ripe. The square, flat-topped tembes had now been left behind, and + instead the villagers lived in small collections of grass huts, surrounded + by palisades of tall poles. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding on we put up at the small settlement of Usenda, the proprietor + of which was a semi-negro Arab merchant called Sangoro. He had a large + collection of women here, but had himself gone north with a view to trade + in Karague. Report, however, assured us that he was then detained in Usui + by Suwarora, its chief, on the plea of requiring his force of musketeers + to prevent the Watuta from pillaging his country, for these Watuta lived + entirely on plunder of other people's cattle. + </p> + <p> + With one move, by alternately crossing strips of forest and cultivation, + studded here and there with small hills of granite, we forded the Qaunde + nullah—a tributary to the Gombe—and entered the rich flat + district of Mininga, where the gingerbread-palm grows abundantly. The + greatest man we found here was a broken-down ivory merchant called + Sirboko, who gave us a good hut to live in. Next morning, I believe at the + suggestion of my Wanguana, with Baraka at their head, he induced me to + stop there; for he said Rungua had been very recently destroyed by the + Watuta, and this place could afford porters better than it. To all + appearance this was the case, for this district was better cultivated than + any place I had seen. I also felt a certain inclination to stop, as I was + dragging on sick men, sorely against my feelings; and I also thought I had + better not go farther away from my rear property; but, afraid of doing + wrong in not acting up to Musa's directions, I called up his head men who + were with me, and asked them what they thought of the matter, as they had + lately come from Rungua. On their confirming Sirboki's story, and advising + my stopping, I acceded to their recommendation, and immediately gave + Musa's men orders to look out for porters. + </p> + <p> + Hearing this, all my Wanguana danced with delight; and I, fearing there + was some treachery, called Musa's men again, saying I had changed my mind, + and wished to go on in the afternoon; but when the time came, not one of + our porters could be seen. There was now no help for it; so, taking it + coolly, I gave Musa's men presents, begged them to look sharp in getting + the men up, and trusted all would end well in the long-run. Sirboko's + attentions were most warm and affecting. He gave us cows, rice, and milk, + with the best place he had to live in, and looked after us as constantly + and tenderly as if he had been our father. It seemed quite unjust to + harbour any suspicion against him. + </p> + <p> + He gave the following account of himself:—He used to trade in ivory, + on account of some Arabs at Zanzibar. On crossing Usui, he once had a + fight with one of the chiefs of the country and killed him; but he got + through all right, because the natives, after two or three of their number + had been killed, dispersed, and feared to come near his musket again. He + visited Uganda when the late king Sunna was living, and even traded Usoga; + but as he was coming down from these northern countries he lost all his + property by a fire breaking out in a village he stopped in, which drove + him down here a ruined man. As it happened, however, he put up with the + chief of this district, Ugali—Mr Paste—at a time when the + Watuta attacked the place and drove all the inhabitants away. The chief, + too, was on the point of bolting, when Sirboko prevented him by saying, + "If you will only have courage to stand by me, the Watuta shall not come + near—at any rate, if they do, let us both die together." The Watuta + at that time surrounded the district, crowning all the little hills + overlooking it; but fearing the Arabs' guns might be many, they soon + walked away, and left them in peace. In return for this magnanimity, and + feeling a great security in firearms, Ugali then built the large + enclosure, with huts for Sirboko, we were now living in. Sirboko, afraid + to return to the coast lest he should be apprehended for debt, has resided + here ever since, doing odd jobs for other traders, increasing his family, + and planting extensively. His agricultural operations are confined chiefly + to rice, because the natives do not like it enough to be tempted to steal + it. + </p> + <p> + 25th to 2d.—I now set to work, collecting, stuffing, and drawing, + until the 2d, when Musa's men came in with three hundred men, whom I sent + on to Kaze at once with my specimens and letters, directing Musa and + Bombay to come on and join us immediately. Whilst waiting for these men's + return, one of Sirboko's slaves, chained up by him, in the most piteous + manner cried out to me: "Hai Bana wangi, Bana wangi (Oh, my lord, my + lord), take pity on me! When I was a free man I saw you at Uvira, on the + Tanganyika lake, when you were there; but since then the Watuta, in a + fight at Ujiji, speared me all over and left me for dead, when I was + seized by the people, sold to the Arabs, and have been in chains ever + since. Oh, I saw, Bana wangi, if you would only liberate me I would never + run away, but would serve you faithfully all my life." This touching + appeal was too strong for my heart to withstand, so I called up Sirboko, + and told him, if he would liberate this one man to please me he should be + no loser; and the release was effected. He was then christened Farham + (Joy), and was enrolled in my service with the rest of my freed men. I + then inquired if it was true the Wabembe were cannibals, and also + circumcised. In one of their slaves the latter statement was easily + confirmed. I was assure that he was not a cannibal; for the whole tribe of + Wabembe, when they cannot get human flesh otherwise, give a goat to their + neighbours for a sick or dying child, regarding such flesh as the best of + all. No other cannibals, however, were known of; but the Masai, and their + cognates, the Wahumba, Wataturu, Wakasange, Wanyaramba, and even the + Wagogo and Wakimbu, circumcise. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th I was surprised to find Bombay come in with all my rear + property and a great quantity of Musa's, but with out the old man. By a + letter from Sheikh Said I then found that, since my leaving Kaze, the + Arabs had, along with Mkisiwa, invested the position of Manua Sera at + Kigue, and forced him to take flight again. Afterwards the Arabs, + returning to Kaze, found Musa preparing to leave. Angry at this attempt to + desert them, they persuaded him to give up his journey north for the + present; so that at the time Bombay left, Musa was engaged as public + auctioneer in selling the effects of Snay, Jafu, and others, but privately + said he would follow me on to Karague as soon as his rice was cut. Adding + a little advice of his own, Sheikh Said pressed me to go on with the + journey as fast as possible, because all the Arabs had accused me of + conspiring with Manua Sera, and would turn against me unless I soon got + away. + </p> + <p> + 2d to 30th.—Disgusted with Musa's vacillatory conduct, on the 22d I + sent him a letter containing a bit of my mind. I had given him, as a + present, sufficient cloth to pay for his porters, as well as a watch and a + good sum of money, and advised his coming on at once, for the porters who + had just brought in my rear property would not take pay to go on to + Karague; and so I was detained again, waiting whilst his head man went to + Rungua to look for more. Five days after this, a party of Sangoro's + arrived from Karague, saying they had been detained three months in Usui + by Suwarora, who had robbed them of an enormous quantity of property, and + oppressed them so that all their porters ran away. Now, slight as this + little affair might appear, it was of vital importance to me, as I found + all my men shaking their heads and predicting what might happen to us when + we got there; so, as a forlorn hope, I sent Baraka with another letter to + Musa, offering to pay as much money for fifty men carrying muskets as + would buy fifty slaves, and, in addition to that, I offered to pay them + what my men were receiving as servants. Next day (23d) the chief Ugali + came to pay his respects to us. He was a fine-looking young man, about + thirty years old, the husband of thirty wives, but he had only three + children. Much surprised at the various articles composing our kit, he + remarked that our "sleeping-clothes"—blankets—were much better + than his royal robes; but of all things that amused him most were our + picture-books, especially some birds drawn by Wolf. + </p> + <p> + Everything still seemed going against me; for on the following day (24th) + Musa's men came in from Rungua to say the Watuta were "out." They had just + seized fifty head of cattle from Rungua, and the people were in such a + state of alarm they dared not leave their homes and families. I knew not + what to do, for there was no hope left but in what Baraka might bring; and + as that even would be insufficient, I sent Musa's men into Kaze, to + increase the original number by thirty men more. + </p> + <p> + Patience, thank God, I had a good stock of, so I waited quietly until the + 30th, when I was fairly upset by the arrival of a letter from Kaze, + stating that Baraka had arrived, and had been very insolent both to Musa + and to Sheikh Said. The bearer of the letter was at once to go and search + for porters at Rungua, but not a word was said about the armed men I had + ordered. At the same time reports from the other side came in, to the + effect that the Arabs at Kaze and Msene had bribed the Watuta to join + them, and overrun the whole country from Ugogo to Usui; and, in + consequence of this, all the natives on the line I should have to take + were in such dread of that terrible wandering race of savages, who had + laid waste in turn all the lands from N'yassa to Usui on their west flank, + that not a soul dared leave his home. I could now only suppose that this + foolish and hasty determination of the Arabs, who, quite unprepared to + carry out their wicked alliance to fight, still had set every one against + their own interests as well as mine, had not reached Musa, so I made up my + mind at once to return to Kaze, and settle all matters I had in my heart + with himself and the Arabs in person. + </p> + <p> + This settled, I next, in this terrible embarrassment, determined on + sending back the last of the Hottentots, as all four of them, though still + wishing to go on with me, distinctly said they had not the power to + continue the march, for they had never ceased suffering from fever and + jaundice, which had made them all yellow as guineas, save one, who was too + black to change colour. It felt to me as if I were selling my children, + having once undertaken to lead them through the journey; but if I did not + send them back then, I never could afterwards, and therefore I allowed the + more substantial feelings of humanity to overcome these compunctions. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, then, after giving the Tots over in charge of some men to + escort them on to Kaze quietly, I set our myself with a dozen men, and the + following evening I put up with Musa, who told me Baraka had just left + without one man—all his slaves having become afraid to go, since the + news of the Arab alliance had reached Kaze. Suwarora had ordered his + subjects to run up a line of bomas to protect his frontier, and had + proclaimed his intention to kill every coast-man who dared attempt to + enter Usui. My heart was ready to sink as I turned into bed, and I was + driven to think of abandoning everybody who was not strong enough to go on + with me carrying a load. + </p> + <p> + 3d to 13th.—Baraka, hearing I had arrived, then came back to me, and + confirmed Musa's words. The Arabs, too, came flocking in to beg, nay + implore, me to help them out of their difficulties. Many of them were + absolutely ruined, they said; others had their houses full of stores + unemployed. At Ugogo those who wished to join them were unable to do so, + for their porters, what few were left, were all dying of starvation; and + at that moment Manua Sera was hovering about, shooting, both night and + day, all the poor villagers in the district, or driving them away. Would + to God, they said, I would mediate for them with Manua Sera—they + were sure I would be successful—and then they would give me as many + armed men as I liked. Their folly in all their actions, I said, proved to + me that anything I might attempt to do would be futile, for their alliance + with the Watuta, when they were not prepared to act, at once damned them + in my eyes as fools. This they in their terror acknowledged, but said it + was not past remedy, if I would join them, to counteract what had been + done in that matter. Suffice it now to say, after a long conversation, + arguing all the pros and cons over, I settled I would write out all the + articles of a treaty of peace, by which they should be liable to have all + their property forfeited on the coast if they afterwards broke faith; and + I begged them to call the next day and sign it. + </p> + <p> + They were no sooner gone, however, than Musa assured me they had killed + old Maula of Rubuga in the most treacherous manner, as follows:—Khamis, + who is an Arab of most gentlemanly aspect, on returning from Ugogo + attended by slaves, having heard that Maula was desirous of adjusting a + peace, invited him with his son to do so. When old Maula came as desired, + bringing his son with him, and a suitable offering of ivory and cattle, + the Arab induced them both to kneel down and exchange blood with him, + when, by a previously concerted arrangement, Khamis had them shot down by + his slaves. This disgusting story made me quite sorry, when next day the + Arabs arrived, expecting that I should attempt to help them; but as the + matter had gone so far, I asked them, in the first place, how they could + hope Manua Sera would have any faith in them when they were so + treacherous, or trust to my help, since they had killed Maula, who was my + protege? They all replied in a breath, "Oh, let the past be forgotten, and + assist us now! for in you alone we can look for a preserver." + </p> + <p> + At length an armistice was agreed to; but as no one dared go to negotiated + it but my men, I allowed them to take pay from the Arabs, which was + settled on the 4th by ten men taking four yards of cloth each, with a + promise of a feast on sweetmeats when they returned. Ex Mrs Musa, who had + been put aside by her husband because she was too fat for her lord's + taste, then gave me three men of her private establishment, and abused + Musa for being wanting in "brains." She had repeatedly advised him to + leave this place and go with me, lest the Arabs, who were all in debt to + him, should put him to death; but he still hung on to recover his + remaining debts, a portion having been realised by the sale of Snay's and + Jafu's effects; for everything in the shape of commodities had been sold + at the enormous price of 500 per cent—the male slaves even fetching + 100 dollars per head, though the females went for less. The Hottentots now + arrived, with many more of my men, who, seeing their old "flames," Snay's + women, sold off by auction, begged me to advance them money to purchase + them with, for they could not bear to see these women, who were their own + when they formerly stayed here, go off like cattle no one knew where. + Compliance, of course, was impossible, as it would have crowded the + caravan with women. Indeed, to prevent my men every thinking of matrimony + on the march, as well as to incite them on through the journey, I + promised, as soon as we reached Egypt, to give them all wives and gardens + at Zanzibar, provided they did not contract marriages on the road. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th, the deputation, headed by Baraka, returned triumphantly into + Kaze, leading in two of Manua Sera's ministers—one of them a man + with one eye, whom I called Cyclops—and tow others, ministers of a + chief called Kitambi, or Little Blue Cloth. After going a day's journey, + they said they came to where Manua Sera was residing with Kitambi, and met + with a most cheerful and kind reception from both potentates, who, on + hearing of my proposition, warmly acceded to it, issued orders at once + that hostilities should cease, and, with one voice, said they were + convinced that, unless through my instrumentality, Manua Sera would never + regain his possessions. Kitambi was quite beside himself, and wished my + men to stop one night to enjoy his hospitality. Manua Sera, after + reflecting seriously about the treacherous murder of old Maula, hesitated, + but gave way when it had been explained away by my men, and said, "No; + they shall go at once, for my kingdom depends on the issue, and Bana + Mzungu (the White Lord) may get anxious if they do not return promptly." + One thing, however, he insisted on, and that was, the only place he would + meet the Arabs in was Unyanyembe, as it would be beneath his dignity to + settle matters anywhere else. And further, he specified that he wished all + the transactions to take place in Musa's house. + </p> + <p> + Next day, 7th, I assembled all the Arabs at Musa's "court," with all my + men and the two chiefs, four men attending, when Baraka, "on his legs," + told them all I proposed for the treaty of peace. The Arabs gave their + assent to it; and Cyclops, for Manua Sera, after giving a full narrative + of the whole history of the war, in such a rapid and eloquent manner as + would have done justice to our Prime Minister, said his chief was only + embittered against Snay, and now Snay was killed, he wished to make + friends with them. To which the Arabs made a suitable answer, adding, that + all they found fault with was an insolent remark which, in his wrath, + Manua Sera had given utterance to, that their quarrel with him was owing + chiefly to a scurvy jest which he had passed on them, and on the + characteristic personal ceremony of initiation to their Mussulman faith. + Now, however, as Manua Sera wished to make friends, they would abide by + anything that I might propose. Here the knotty question arose again, what + territory they, the Arabs, would give to Manua Sera? I thought he would + not be content unless he got the old place again; but as Cyclops said no, + that was not in his opinion absolutely necessary, as the lands of + Unyanyembe had once before been divided, the matter was settled on the + condition that another conference should be held with Manua Sera himself + on the subject. + </p> + <p> + I now (8th and 9th) sent these men all off again, inviting Manua Sera to + come over and settle matters at once, if he would, otherwise I should go + on with my journey, for I could not afford to wait longer here. Then, as + soon as they left, I made Musa order some of his men off to Rungua, + requesting the chief of the place to send porters to Mininga to remove all + our baggage over to his palace; at the same time I begged him not to fear + the Watuta's threat to attack him, as Musa would come as soon as the + treaty was concluded, in company with me, to build a boma alongside his + palace, as he did in former years, to be nearer his trade with Karague. I + should have mentioned, by the way, that Musa had now made up his mind not + to go further than the borders of Usui with me, lest I should be "torn to + pieces," and he would be "held responsible on the coast." Musa's men, + however, whom he selected for this business, were then engaged making + Mussulmans of all the Arab slave boys, and said they would not go until + they had finished, although I offered to pay the "doctor's bill," or + allowance they expected to get. The ceremony, at the same time that it + helps to extend their religion, as christening does ours, also stamps the + converts with a mark effective enough to prevent desertion; because, after + it has been performed, their own tribe would not receive them again. At + last, when they did go, Musa, who was suffering from a sharp illness, to + prove to me that he was bent on leaving Kaze the same time as myself, + began eating what he called his training pills—small dried buds of + roses with alternate bits of sugar-candy. Ten of these buds, he said, + eaten dry, were sufficient for ordinary cases, and he gave a very + formidable description of the effect likely to follow the use of the same + number boiled in rice-water or milk. + </p> + <p> + Fearful stories of losses and distress came constantly in from Ugogo by + small bodies of men, who stole their way through the jungles. To-day a + tremendous commotion took place in Musa's tembe amongst all the women, as + one had been delivered of still-born twins. They went about in procession, + painted and adorned in the most grotesque fashion, bewailing and + screeching, singing and dancing, throwing their arms and legs about as if + they were drunk, until the evening set in, when they gathered a huge + bundle of bulrushes, and, covering it with a cloth, carried it up to the + door of the bereaved on their shoulders, as though it had been a coffin. + Then setting it down on the ground, they planted some of the rushes on + either side of the entrance, and all kneeling together, set to bewailing, + shrieking, and howling incessantly for hours together. + </p> + <p> + After this (10th to 12th), to my great relief, quite unexpectedly, a man + arrived from Usui conveying a present of some ivories from a great mganga + or magician, named Dr K'yengo, who had sent them to Musa as a recollection + from an old friend, begging at the same time for some pretty cloths, as he + said he was then engaged as mtongi or caravan director, collecting + together all the native caravans desirous of making a grand march to + Uganda. This seemed to me a heaven-born opportunity of making friends with + one who could help me so materially, and I begged Musa to seal it by + sending him something on my account, as I had nothing by me; but Musa + objected, thinking it better simply to say I was coming, and if he, + K'yengo, would assist me in Usui, I would then give him some cloths as he + wanted; otherwise, Musa said, the man who had to convey it would in all + probability make away with it, and then do his best to prevent my seeing + K'yengo. As soon as this was settled, against my wish and opinion, a + special messenger arrived from Suwarora, to inquire of Musa what truth + there was in the story of the Arabs having allied themselves to the + Watuta. He had full faith in Musa, and hoped, if the Arabs had no hostile + intentions towards him, he, Musa, would send him two of theirs; further, + Suwarora wished Musa would send him a cat. A black cat was then given to + the messenger for Suwarora, and Musa sent an account of all that I had + done towards effecting a peace, saying that the Arabs had accepted my + views, and if he would have patience until I arrived in Usui, the four men + required would be sent with me. + </p> + <p> + In the evening my men returned again with Cyclops, who said, for his + master, that Manua Sera desired nothing more than peace, and to make + friends with the Arabs; but as nothing was settled about deposing Mkisiwa, + he could not come over here. Could the Arabs, was Manua Sera's rejoinder, + suppose for a moment that he would voluntarily divide his dominion with + one whom he regarded as his slave! Death would be preferable; and although + he would trust his life in the Mzungu's hands if he called him again, he + must know it was his intention to hunt Mkisiwa down like a wild animal, + and would never rest satisfied until he was dead. The treaty thus broke + down; for the same night Cyclops decamped like a thief, after brandishing + an arrow which Manua Sera had given him to throw down as a gauntlet of + defiance to fight Mkisiwa to death. After this the Arabs were too much + ashamed of themselves to come near me, though invited by letter, and Musa + became so ill he would not take my advice and ride in a hammock, the best + possible cure for his complaint; so, after being humbugged so many times + by his procrastinations, I gave Sheikh Said more letters and specimens, + with orders to take the Tots down to the coast as soon as practicable, and + started once more for the north, expecting very shortly to hear of Musa's + death, though he promised to follow me the very next day or die in the + attempt, and he also said he would bring on the four men required by + Suwarora; for I was fully satisfied in my mind that he would have marched + with me then had he had the resolution to do so at all. + </p> + <p> + Before I had left the district I heard that Manua Sera had collected a + mixed force of Warori, Wagogo, and Wasakuma, and had gone off to Kigue + again, whilst the Arabs and Mkisiwa were feeding their men on beef before + setting out to fight him. Manua Sera, it was said, had vast resources. His + father, Fundi Kira, was a very rich man, and had buried vast stores of + property, which no one knew of but Manua Sera, his heir. The Wanyamuezi + all inwardly loved him for his great generosity, and all alike thought him + protected by a halo of charm-power so effective against the arms of the + Arabs that he could play with them just as he liked. + </p> + <p> + On crossing Unyambewa (14th), when I a third time put up with my old + friend the sultana, her chief sent word to say he hoped I would visit him + at his fighting boma to eat a cow which he had in store for me, as he + could not go home and enjoy the society of his wife whilst the war was + going on; since, by so doing, it was considered he "would lose strength." + </p> + <p> + On arriving at Mininga, I was rejoiced to see Grant greatly recovered. + Three villagers had been attacked by two lions during my absence. Two of + the people escaped, but the third was seized as he was plunging into his + hut, and was dragged off and devoured by the animals. A theft also had + taken place, by which both Grant and Sirboko lost property; and the + thieves had been traced over the borders of the next district. No fear, + however, was entertained about the things being recovered, for Sirboko had + warned Ugali the chief, and he had promised to send his Waganga, or + magicians, out to track them down, unless the neighbouring chief chose to + give them up. After waiting two days, as no men came from Rungua, I begged + Grant to push ahead on to Ukani, just opposite Rungua, with all my + coast-men, whilst I remained behind for the arrival of Musa's men and + porters to carry on the rest of the kit—for I had now twenty-two in + addition to men permanently enlisted, who took service on the same rate of + pay as my original coast-men; though, as usual, when the order for + marching was issued, a great number were found to be either sick or + malingering. + </p> + <p> + Two days afterwards, Musa's men came in with porters, who would not hire + themselves for more than two marches, having been forbidden to do so by + their chief on account of the supposed Watuta invasion; and for these two + marches they required a quarter of the whole customary hire to Karague. + Musa's traps, too, I found, were not to be moved, so I saw at once Musa + had not kept faith with me, and there would be a fresh set of + difficulties; but as every step onwards was of the greatest importance—for + my men were consuming my stores at a fearful pace—I paid down the + beads they demanded, and next day joined Grant at Mbisu, a village of + Ukuni held by a small chief called Mchimeka, who had just concluded a war + of two years' standing with the great chief Ukulima (the Digger), of Nunda + (the Hump). During the whole of the two years' warfare the loss was only + three men on each side. Meanwhile Musa's men bolted like thieves one + night, on a report coming that the chief of Unyambewa, after concluding + the war, whilst amusing himself with his wife, had been wounded on the + foot by an arrow that fell from her hand. The injury had at once taken a + mortal turn, and the chief sent for his magicians, who said it was not the + fault of the wife—somebody else must have charmed the arrow to cause + such a deadly result. They then seized hold of the magic horn, primed for + the purpose, and allowed it to drag them to where the culprits dwelt. Four + poor men, who were convicted in this way, were at once put to death, and + the chief from that moment began to recover. + </p> + <p> + After a great many perplexities, I succeeded in getting a kirangozi, or + leader, by name Ungurue (the Pig). He had several times taken caravans to + Karague, and knew all the languages well, but unfortunately he afterwards + proved to be what his name implied. That, however, I could not foresee, + so, trusting to him and good-luck, I commenced making fresh enlistments of + porters; but they came and went in the most tantalising manner, + notwithstanding I offered three times the hire that any merchant could + afford to give. Every day seemed to be worse and worse. Some of Musa's men + came to get palm-toddy for him, as he was too weak to stand, and was so + cold nothing would warm him. There was, however, no message brought for + myself; and as the deputation did not come to me, I could only infer that + I was quite forgotten, of that Musa, after all, had only been humbugging + me. I scarcely knew what to do. Everybody advised me to stop where I was + until the harvest was over, as no porters could be found on ahead, for + Ukuni was the last of the fertile lands on this side of Usui. + </p> + <p> + Stopping, however, seemed endless; not so my supplies, I therefore tried + advancing in detachments again, sending the free men off under Grant to + Ukulima's, whilst I waited behind keeping ourselves divided in the hopes + of inducing all hands to see the advisability of exerting themselves for + the general good—as my men, whilst we were all together, showed they + did not care how long they were kept doing no more fatiguing work than + chaffing each other, and feeding at my expense. + </p> + <p> + In the meanwhile the villagers were very merry, brewing and drinking their + pombe (beer) by turns, one house after the other providing the treat. On + these occasions the chief—who always drank freely, and more than any + other—heading the public gatherings of men and women, saw the large + earthen pots placed all in a row, and the company taking long draughts + from bowls made of plaited straw, laughing as they drank, until, + half-screwed, they would begin bawling and shouting. To increase the + merriment, one or two jackanapes, with zebras' manes tied over their + heads, would advance with long tubes like monster bassoons, blowing with + all their might, contorting their faces and bodies, and going through the + most obscene and ridiculous motions to captivate their simple admirers. + This, however, was only the feast; the ball then began, for the pots were + no sooner emptied than five drums at once, of different sizes and tones, + suspended in a line from a long horizontal bar, were beaten with fury, and + all the men, women, and children, singing and clapping their hands in + time, danced for hours together. + </p> + <p> + A report reached me, by some of Sirboko's men, whom he had sent to convey + to us a small present of rice, that an Arab, who was crossing Msalala to + our northward, had been treacherously robbed of all his arms and guns by a + small district chief, whose only excuse was that the Wanyamuezi had always + traded very well by themselves until the Arabs came into the country; but + now, as they were robbed of their property, on account of the disturbances + caused by these Arabs, they intended for the future to take all they could + get, and challenged the Arabs to do the same. + </p> + <p> + My patience was beginning to suffer again, for I could not help thinking + that the chiefs of the place were preventing their village men going with + me in order that my presence here might ward of the Watuta; so I called up + the kirangozi, who had thirteen "Watoto," as they are called, or children + of his own, wishing to go, and asked him if he knew why no other men could + be got. As he could not tell me, saying some excused themselves on the + plea they were cutting their corn, and others that they feared the Watuta, + I resolved at once to move over to Nunda; and if that place also failed to + furnish men, I would go on to Usui or Karague with what men I had, and + send back for the rest of my property; for though I could bear the idea of + separating from Grant, still the interests of old England were at stake, + and demanded it. + </p> + <p> + This resolve being strengthened by the kirangozi's assurance that the row + in Msalala had shaken the few men who had half dreaded to go with me, I + marched over to Hunda, and put up with Grant in Ukulima's boma, when Grant + informed me that the chief had required four yards of cloth from him for + having walked round a dead lioness, as he had thus destroyed a charm that + protected his people against any more of these animals coming, although, + fortunately, the charm could be restored again by paying four yards of + cloth. Ukulima, however, was a very kind and good man, though he did stick + the hands and heads of his victims on the poles of his boma as a warning + to others. He kept five wives, of whom the rest paid such respect to the + elder one, it was quite pleasing to see them. A man of considerable age, + he did everything the state or his great establishment required himself. + All the men of his district clapped their hands together as a courteous + salutation to him, and the women curtsied as well as they do at our court—a + proof that they respected him as a great potentate—a homage rarely + bestowed on the chiefs of other small states. Ukulima was also hospitable; + for on one occasion, when another chief came to visit him, he received his + guest and retainers with considerable ceremony, making all the men of the + village get up a dance; which they did, beating the drums and firing off + guns, like a lot of black devils let loose. + </p> + <p> + We were not the only travellers in misfortune here, for Masudi, with + several other Arabs, all formed in one large caravan, had arrived at + Mchimeka's, and could not advance for want of men. They told me it was the + first time they had come on this line, and they deeply regretted it, for + they had lost 5000 dollar's worth of beads by their porters running away + with their loads, and now they did not know how to proceed. Indeed, they + left the coast and arrived at Kaze immediately in rear of us, and had, + like ourselves, found it as much as they could do even to reach this, and + now they were at a standstill for want of porters. + </p> + <p> + As all hopes of being able to get any more men were given up, I called on + Bombay and Baraka to make arrangements for my going ahead with the best of + my property as I had devised. They both shook their heads, and advised me + to remain until the times improved, when the Arabs, being freed from the + pressure of war, would come along and form with us a "sufari ku" or grand + march, as Ukulima and every one else had said we should be torn to pieces + in Usui if we tried to cross that district with so few men. I then told + them again and again of the messages I had sent on to Rumanika in Karague, + and to Suwarora in Usui, and begged them to listen to me, instancing as an + example of what could be done by perseverance the success of Columbus, + who, opposed by his sailors' misgivings, still when on and triumphed, + creating for himself immortal renown. + </p> + <p> + They gave way at last; so, after selecting all the best of my property, I + formed camp at Phunze, left Bombay with Grant behind, as I thought Bombay + the best and most honest man I had got, from his having had so much + experience, and then went ahead by myself, with the Pig as my guide and + interpreter, and Baraka as my factotum. The Waguana then all mutinied for + a cloth apiece, saying they would not lift a load unless I gave it. Of + course a severe contest followed; I said, as I had given them so much + before, they could not want it, and ought to be ashamed of themselves. + They urged, however, they were doing double work, and would not consent to + carry loads as they had done at Mgunda Mkhali again. + </p> + <p> + Arguments were useless, for, simply because they were tired of going on, + they WOULD not see that as they were receiving pay every day, they + therefore ought to work every day. However, as they yielded at last, by + some few leaning to my side, I gave what they asked for, and went to the + next village, still inefficient in men, as all the Pig's Watoto could not + be collected together. This second move brought us into a small village, + of which Ghiya, a young man, was chief. + </p> + <p> + He was very civil to me, and offered to sell me a most charming young + woman, quite the belle of the country; but as he could not bring me to + terms, he looked over my picture-books with the greatest delight, and + afterwards went into a discourse on geography with considerable + perspicacity; seeming fully to comprehend that if I got down the Nile it + would afterwards result in making the shores of the N'yanza like that of + the coast at Zanzibar, where the products of his country could be + exchanged, without much difficulty, for cloths, beads, and brass wire. I + gave him a present; then a letter was brought to me from Sheikh Said, + announcing Musa's death, and the fact that Manua Sera was still holding + out at Kigue; in answer to which I desired the sheikh to send me as many + of Musa's slaves as would take service with me, for they ought now, by the + laws of the Koran, to be all free. + </p> + <p> + On packing up to leave Ghiya's, all the men of the village shut the bars + of the entrance, wishing to extract some cloths from me, as I had not + given enough, they said, to their chief. They soon, however, saw that we, + being inside their own fort, had the best of it, and they gave way. We + then pushed on to Ungurue's, another chief of the same district. Here the + men and women of the place came crowding to see me, the fair sex all + playfully offering themselves for wives, and wishing to know which I + admired most. They were so importunate, after a time, that I was not sorry + to hear an attack was made on their cattle because a man of the village + would not pay his dowry-money to his father-in-law, and this set everybody + flying out to the scene of action. + </p> + <p> + After this, as Bombay brought up the last of my skulking men, I bade him + good-bye again, and made an afternoon-march on to Takina, in the district + of Msalala, which we no sooner approached than all the inhabitants turned + out and fired their arrows at us. They did no harm, however, excepting to + create a slight alarm, which some neighbouring villagers took advantage of + to run of with two of my cows. To be returned to them, but called in vain, + as the scoundrels said, "Findings are keepings, by the laws of our + country; and as we found your cows, so we will keep them." For my part I + was glad they were gone, as the Wanguana never yet kept anything I put + under their charge; so, instead of allowing them to make a fuss the next + morning, I marched straight on for M'ynoga's, the chief of the district, + who was famed for his infamy and great extortions, having pushed his + exactions so far as to close the road. + </p> + <p> + On nearing his palace, we heard war-drums beat in every surrounding + village, and the kirangozi would go no farther until permission was + obtained from M'yonga. This did not take long, as the chief said he was + most desirous to see a white man, never having been to the coast, though + his father-in-law had, and had told him that the Wazungu were even greater + people than the sultan reigning there. On our drawing near the palace, a + small, newly-constructed boma was shown for my residence; but as I did not + wish to stop there, knowing how anxious Grant would be to have his relief, + I would not enter it, but instead sent Baraka to pay the hongo as quickly + as possible, that we might move on again; at the same time ordering him to + describe the position both Grant and myself were in, and explain that what + I paid now was to frank both of us, as the whole of the property was my + own. Should he make any remarks about the two cows that were stolen, I + said he must know that I could not wait for them, as my brother would die + of suspense if we did not finish the journey and send back for him + quickly. Off went Baraka with a party of men, stopping hours, of course, + and firing volleys of ammunition away. He did not return again until the + evening, when the palace-drums announced that the hongo had been settled + for one barsati, one lugoi, and six yards merikani. Baraka approached me + triumphantly, saying how well he had managed the business. M'yonga did not + wish to see me, because he did not know the coast language. He was + immensely pleased with the present I had given him, and said he was much + and very unjustly abused by the Arabs, who never came this way, saying he + was a bad man. He should be very glad to see Grant, and would take nothing + from him; and, though he did not see me in person, he would feel much + affronted if I did not stop the night there. In the meanwhile he would + have the cows brought in, for he could not allow any one to leave his + country abused in any way. + </p> + <p> + My men had greatly amused him by firing their guns off and showing him the + use of their sword-bayonets. I knew, as a matter of course, that if I + stopped any longer I should be teased for more cloths, and gave orders to + my men to march the same instant, saying, if they did not—for I saw + them hesitate—I would give the cows to the villagers, since I knew + that was the thing that weighed on their minds. This raised a mutiny. No + one would go forward with the two cows behind; besides which, the day was + far spent, and there was nothing but jungle, they said, beyond. The + kirangozi would not show the way, nor would any man lift a load. A great + confusion ensued. I knew they were telling lies, and would not enter the + village, but shot the cows when they arrived, for the villagers to eat, to + show them I cared for nothing but making headway, and remained out in the + open all night. Next morning, sure enough, before we could get under way, + M'yonga sent his prime minister to say that the king's sisters and other + members of his family had been crying and tormenting him all night for + having let me off so cheaply—they had got nothing to cover their + nakedness, and I must pay something more. This provoked fresh squabbles. + The drums had beaten and the tax was settled; I could not pay more. The + kirangozi, however, said he would not move a peg unless I gave something + more, else he would be seized on his way back. His "children' all said the + same; and as I thought Grant would only be worsted if I did not keep + friends with the scoundrel, I gave four yards more merikani, and then went + on my way. + </p> + <p> + For the first few miles there were villagers, but after that a long tract + of jungle, inhabited chiefly by antelopes and rhinoceros. It was wilder in + appearance than most parts of Unyamuezi. In this jungle a tributary nullah + to the Gombe, called Nurhungure, is the boundary-line between the great + Country of the Moon and the kingdom of Uzinza. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI. Uzinza + </h2> + <p> + The Politics of Uzinza—The Wahuma—"The Pig's" Trick—First + Taste of Usui Taxation—Pillaged by Mfumbi—Pillaged by Makaka—Pillaged + by Lumeresi—Grant Stripped by M'Yonga—Stripped Again by Ruhe—Terrors + and Defections in the Camp—Driven back to Kaze with new Tribulations + and Impediments. + </p> + <p> + Uzinza, which we now entered, is ruled by two Wahuma chieftains of foreign + blood, descended from the Abyssinian stock, of whom we saw specimens + scattered all over Unyamuezi, and who extended even down south as far as + Fipa. Travellers see very little, however, of these Wahuma, because, being + pastorals, they roam about with their flocks and build huts as far away as + they can from cultivation. Most of the small district chiefs, too, are the + descendants of those who ruled in the same places before the country was + invaded, and with them travellers put up and have their dealings. The + dress of the Wahuma is very simple, composed chiefly of cow-hide tanned + black—a few magic ornaments and charms, brass or copper bracelets, + and immense number of sambo for stockings, which looked very awkward on + their long legs. They smear themselves with rancid butter instead of + macassar, and are, in consequence, very offensive to all but the negro, + who seems, rather than otherwise, to enjoy a good sharp nose tickler. For + arms they carry both bow and spear; more generally the latter. The Wazinza + in the southern parts are so much like the Wanyamuezi, as not to require + any especial notice; but in the north, where the country is more hilly, + they are much more energetic and actively built. All alike live in + grass-hut villages, fenced round by bomas in the south, but open in the + north. Their country rises in high rolls, increasing in altitude as it + approaches the Mountains of the Moon, and is generally well cultivated, + being subjected to more of the periodical rains than the regions we have + left, though springs are not so abundant, I believe, as they are in the + Land of the Moon, where they ooze out by the flanks of the little granitic + hills. + </p> + <p> + After tracking through several miles of low bush-jungle, we came to the + sites of some old bomas that had been destroyed by the Watuta not long + since. Farther on, as we wished to enter a newly-constructed boma, the + chief of which was Mafumbu Wantu (a Mr Balls), we felt the effects of + those ruthless marauders; for the villagers, thinking us Watuta in + disguise, would not let us in; for those savages, they said, had once + tricked them by entering their village, pretending to be traders carrying + ivory and merchandise, whilst they were actually spies. This was fortunate + for me, however, as Mr Balls, like M'yonga, was noted for his extortions + on travellers. We then went on and put up in the first village of Bogue, + where I wished to get porters and return for Grant, as the place seemed to + be populous. Finding, however, that I could not get a sufficient number + for that purpose, I directed those who wished for employment to go off at + once and take service with Grant. + </p> + <p> + I found many people assembled here from all parts of the district, for the + purpose of fighting M'yonga; but the chief Ruhe, having heard of my + arrival, called me to his palace, which, he said, was on my way, that he + might see me, for he never in all his life had a white man for his guest, + and was so glad to hear of my arrival that he would give orders for the + dispersing of his forces. I wished to push past him, as I might be + subjected to such calls every day; but Ungurue, in the most piggish manner—for + he was related to Ruhe—insisted that neither himself nor any of his + children would advance one step farther with me unless I complied with + their wish, which was a simple conformity with the laws of their country, + and therefore absolute. At length giving in, I entered Ruhe's boma, the + poles of which were decked with the skulls of his enemies stuck upon them. + Instead, however, of seeing him myself, as he feared my evil eye, I + conducted the arrangements for the hongo through Baraka, in the same way + as I did at M'yonga's, directing that it should be limited to the small + sum of one barsati and four yards kiniki. + </p> + <p> + The drum was beaten, as the public intimation of the payment of the hongo, + and consequently of our release, and we went on to Mihambo, on the west + border of the eastern division of Uzinza, which is called Ukhanga. It + overlooks the small district of Sorombo, belonging to the great western + division, known as Usui, and is presided over by a Sorombo chief, named + Makaka, whose extortions had been so notorious that no Arabs now ever went + near him. I did not wish to do so either, though his palace lay in the + direct route. It was therefore agreed we should skirt round by the east of + this district, and I even promised the Pig I would give him ten necklaces + a-day in addition to his wages, if he would avoid all the chiefs, and + march steadily ten miles every day. By doing so, we should have avoided + the wandering Watuta, whose depredations had laid waste nearly all of this + country; but the designing blackguard, in opposition to my wishes, to + accomplish some object of his own, chose to mislead us all, and quietly + took us straight into Sorombo to Kague, the boma of a sub-chief, called + Mfumbi, where we no sooner arrived than the inhospitable brute forbade any + one of his subjects to sell us food until the hongo was paid, for he was + not sure that we were not allied with the Watuta to rob his country. After + receiving what he called his dues—one barsati, two yards merikani, + and two yards kiniki—the drums beat, and all was settled with him; + but I was told the head chief Makaka, who lived ten miles to the west, and + so much out of my road, had sent expressly to invite me to see him. He + said it was his right I should go to him as the principal chief of the + district. Moreover he longed for a sight of a white man; for though he had + travelled all across Uganda and Usoga into Masawa, or the Masai country, + as well as to the coast, where he had seen both Arabs and Indians, he had + never yet seen an Englishman. If I would oblige him, he said he would give + me guides to Suwarora, who was his mkama or king. Of course I knew well + what all this meant; and at the same time that I said I could not comply, + I promised to send him a present of friendship by the hands of Baraka. + </p> + <p> + This caused a halt. Makaka would not hear of such an arrangement. A + present, he said, was due to him of course, but of more importance than + the present was his wish to see me. Baraka and all the men begged I would + give in, as they were sure he must be a good man to send such a kind + message. I strove in vain, for no one would lift a load unless I complied; + so, perforce, I went there, in company, however, with Mfumbi, who now + pretended to be great friends; but what was the result? On entering the + palace we were shown into a cowyard without a tree in it, or any shade; + and no one was allowed to sell us food until a present of friendship was + paid, after which the hongo would be discussed. + </p> + <p> + The price of friendship was not settled that day, however, and my men had + to go supperless to bed. Baraka offered him one common cloth, and then + another—all of which he rejected with such impetuosity that Baraka + said his head was all on a whirl. Makaka insisted he would have a deole, + or nothing at all. I protested I had no deoles I could give him; for all + the expensive cloths which I had brought from the coast had been stolen in + Mgunda Mkhali. I had three, however, concealed at the time—which I + had bought from Musa, at forty dollars each—intended for the kings + of Karague and Uganda. + </p> + <p> + Incessant badgering went on for hours and hours, until at last Baraka, + clean done with the incessant worry of this hot-headed young chief, told + him, most unfortunately, he would see again if he could find a deole, as + he had one of his own. Baraka then brought one to my tent, and told me of + his having bought it for eight dollars at the coast; and as I now saw I + was let in for it, I told him to give it. It was given, but Makaka no + sooner saw it than he said he must have another one; for it was all + nonsense saying a white man had no rich cloths. Whenever he met Arabs, + they all said they were poor men, who obtained all their merchandise from + the white men on credit, which they refunded afterwards, by levying a + heavy percentage on the sale of their ivory. + </p> + <p> + I would not give way that night; but next day, after fearful battling, the + present of friendship was paid by Baraka's giving first a dubuani, then + one sahari, then one barsati, then one kisutu, and then eight yards of + merikani—all of which were contested in the most sickening manner—when + Baraka, fairly done up, was relieved by Makaka's saying, "That will do for + friendship; if you had given the deole quietly, all this trouble would + have been saved; for I am not a bad man, as you will see." My men then had + their first dinner here, after which the hongo had to be paid. This for + the time was, however, more easily settled; because Makaki at once said he + would never be satisfied until he had received, if I had really not got a + deole, exactly double in equivalents of all I had given him. This was a + fearful drain on my store; but the Pig, seeing my concern, merely laughed + at it, and said, "Oh, these savage chiefs are all alike here; you will + have one of these taxes to pay every stage to Uyofu, and then the heavy + work will begin; for all these men, although they assume the dignity of + chief to themselves, are mere officers, who have to pay tribute to + Suwarora, and he would be angry if they were shortcoming." + </p> + <p> + The drums as yet had not beaten, for Makaka said he would not be satisfied + until we had exchanged presents, to prove that we were the best of + friends. To do this last act properly, I was to get ready whatever I + wished to give him, whilst he would come and visit me with a bullock; but + I was to give him a royal salute, or the drums would not beat. I never + felt so degraded as when I complied, and gave orders to my men to fire a + volley as he approached my tent; but I ate the dirt with a good grace, and + met the young chief as if nothing had happened. My men, however, could not + fire the salute fast enough for him; for he was one of those excitable + impulsive creatures who expect others to do everything in as great a hurry + as their minds wander. The moment the first volley was fired, he said, + "Now, fire again, fire again; be quick, be quick! What's the use of those + things?" (meaning the guns). "We could spear you all whilst you are + loading: be quick, be quick, I tell you." But Baraka, to give himself law, + said: "No; I must ask Bana" (master) "first, as we do everything by order; + this is not fighting at all." + </p> + <p> + The men being ready, file-firing was ordered, and then the young chief + came into my tent. I motioned him to take my chair, which, after he sat + down upon it, I was very sorry for, as he stained the seat all black with + the running colour of one of the new barsati cloths he had got from me, + which, to improve its appearance, he had saturated with stinking butter, + and had tied round his loins. A fine-looking man of about thirty, he wore + the butt-end of a large sea-shell cut in a circle, and tied on his + forehead, for a coronet, and sundry small saltiana antelope horns, stuffed + with magic powder, to keep off the evil eye. His attendants all fawned on + him, and snapped their fingers whenever he sneezed. After passing the + first compliment, I gave him a barsati, as my token of friendship, and + asked him what he saw when he went to the Masai country. He assured me + "that there were two lakes, and not one"; for, on going from Usoga to the + Masai country, he crossed over a broad strait, which connected the big + N'yanza with another one at its north-east corner. Fearfully impetuous, as + soon as this answer was given, he said, "Now I have replied to your + questions, do you show me all the things you have got, for I want to see + everything, and be very good friends. I did not see you the first day, + because you being a stranger, it was necessary I should first look into + the magic horn to see if all was right and safe; and now I can assure you + that, whilst I saw I was safe, I also saw that your road would be + prosperous. I am indeed delighted to see you, for neither my father, nor + any of my forefathers, ever were honoured with the company of a white man + in all their lives." + </p> + <p> + My guns, clothes, and everything were then inspected, and begged for in + the most importunate manner. He asked for the picture-books, examined the + birds with intense delight—even trying to insert under their + feathers his long royal fingernails, which are grown like a Chinaman's by + these chiefs, to show they have a privilege to live on meat. Then turning + to the animals, he roared over each one in turn as he examined them, and + called out their names. My bull's-eye lantern he coveted so much, I had to + pretend exceeding anger to stop his further importunities. He then began + again begging for lucifers, which charmed him so intensely I thought I + should never get rid of him. He would have one box of them. I swore I + could not part with them. He continued to beg, and I to resist. I offered + a knife instead, but this he would not have, because the lucifers would be + so valuable for his magical observances. On went the storm, till at last I + drove him off with a pair of my slippers, which he had stuck his dirty + feet into without my leave. I then refused to take his bullock, because he + had annoyed me. On his part he was resolved not to beat the drum; but he + graciously said he would think about it if I paid another lot of cloth + equal to the second deole I ought to have given him. + </p> + <p> + I began seriously to consider whether I should have this chief shot, as a + reward for his oppressive treachery, and a warning to others; but the Pig + said it was just what the Arabs were subjected to in Ubena, and they found + it best to pay down at once, and do all they were ordered. If I acted + rightly, I would take the bullock, and then give the cloth; whilst Baraka + said, "We will shoot him if you give the order, only remember Grant is + behind, and if you commence a row you will have to fight the whole way, + for every chief in the country will oppose you." + </p> + <p> + I then told the Pig and Baraka to settle at once. They no sooner did so + than the drums beat, and Makaka, in the best humour possible, came over to + say I had permission to go when I liked, but he hoped I would give him a + gun and a box of lucifers. This was too provoking. The perpetual worry had + given Baraka a fever, and had made me feel quite sick; so I said, if he + ever mentioned a gun or lucifers again, I would fight the matter out with + him, for I had not come there to be bullied. He then gave way, and begged + I would allow my men to fire a volley outside his boma, as the Watuta were + living behind a small line of granitic hills flanking the west of his + district, and he wished to show them what a powerful force he had got with + him. This was permitted; but his wisdom in showing off was turned into + ridicule; for the same evening the Watuta made and attack on his villages + and killed three of his subjects, but were deterred from committing + further damage by coming in contact with my men, who, as soon as they saw + the Watuta fighting, fired their muskets off in the air and drove them + away, they themselves at the same time bolting into my camp, and as usual + vaunting their prowess. + </p> + <p> + I then ordered a march for the next morning, and went out in the fields to + take my regular observations for latitude. Whilst engaged in this + operation, Baraka, accompanied by Wadimoyo (Heart's-stream), another of my + freeman, approached me in great consternation, whispering to themselves. + They said they had some fearful news to communicate, which, when I heard + it, they knew would deter our progress: it was of such great moment and + magnitude, they thought they could not deliver it then. I said, "What + nonsense! out with it at once. Are we such chickens that we cannot speak + about matters like men? out with it at once." + </p> + <p> + Then Baraka said, "I have just heard from Makaka, that a man who arrived + from Usui only a few minutes ago has said Suwarora is so angry with the + Arabs that he has detained one caravan of theirs in his country, and, + separating the whole of their men, has placed each of them in different + bomas, with orders to his village officers that, in case the Watuta came + into his country, without further ceremony they were to be all put to + death." I said, "Oh, Baraka, how can you be such a fool? Do you not see + through this humbug? Makaka only wishes to keep us here to frighten away + the Watuta; for Godsake be a man, and don't be alarmed at such phantoms as + these. You always are nagging at me that Bombay is the 'big' and you are + the 'small' man. Bombay would never be frightened in this silly way. Now, + do you reflect that I have selected you for this journey, as it would, if + you succeed with me in carrying out our object, stamp you for ever as a + man of great fame. Pray, don't give way, but do your best to encourage the + men, and let us march in the morning." On this, as on other occasions of + the same kind, I tried to impart confidence, by explaining, in allusion to + Petherick's expedition, that I had arranged to meet white men coming up + from the north. Baraka at last said, "All right—I am not afraid; I + will do as you desire." But as the two were walking off, I heard Wadimoyo + say to Baraka, "Is he not afraid now? won't he go back?"—which, if + anything, alarmed me more than the first intelligence; for I began to + think that they, and not Makaka, had got up the story. + </p> + <p> + All night Makaka's men patrolled the village, drumming and shouting to + keep off the Watuta, and the next morning, instead of a march, after + striking my tent I found that the whole of my porters, the Pig's children, + were not to be found. They had gone off and hidden themselves, saying that + they were not such fools as to go any farther, as the Watuta were out, and + would cut us up on the road. This was sickening indeed. + </p> + <p> + I knew the porters had not gone far, so I told the Pig to bring them to + me, that we might talk the matter over; but say what I would, they all + swore they would not advance a step farther. Most of them were formerly + men of Utambara. The Watuta had invaded their country and totally + destroyed it, killing all their wives and children, and despoiling + everything they held dear to them. They did not wish to rob me, and would + give up their hire, but not one step more would they advance. Makaka then + came forward and said, "Just stop here with me until this ill wind blows + over"; but Baraka, more in a fright at Makaka than at any one else, said, + No—he would do anything rather than that; for Makaka's bullying had + made him quite ill. I then said to my men, "If nothing else will suit you, + the best plan I can think of is to return to Mihambo in Bogue, and there + form a depot, where, having stored my property, I shall give the Pig a + whole load, or 63 lb., of Mzizima beads if he will take Baraka in disguise + on to Suwarora, and ask him to send me eighty men, whilst I go back to + Unyanyembe to see what men I can get from the late Musa's establishment, + and then we might bring on Grant, and move in a body together." At first + Baraka said, "Do you wish to have us killed? Do you think if we went to + Suwarora's you would ever see us back again? You would wait and wait for + us, but we should never return." To which I replied, "Oh, Baraka, do not + think so! Bombay, if he were here, would go in a minute. Suwarora by this + time knows I am coming, and you may depend on it he will be just as + anxious to have us in Usui as Makaka is to keep us here, and he cannot + hurt us, as Rumanika is over him, and also expects us." Baraka then, in + the most doleful manner, said he would go if the Pig would. The Pig, + however, did not like it either, but said the matter was so important he + would look into the magic horn all night, and give his answer next morning + as soon as we arrived at Mihambo. + </p> + <p> + On arrival at Mihambo next day, all the porters brought their pay to me, + and said they would not go, for nothing would induce them to advance a + step farther. I said nothing; but, with "my heart in my shoes," I gave + what I thought their due for coming so far, and motioned them to be off; + then calling on the Pig for his decision, I tried to argue again, though I + saw it was no use, for there was not one of my own men who wished to go + on. They were unanimous in saying Usui was a "fire," and I had no right to + sacrifice them. The Pig then finally refused, saying three loads even + would not tempt him, for all were opposed to it. Of what value, he + observed, would the beads be to him if his life was lost? This was + crushing; the whole camp was unanimous in opposing me. I then made Baraka + place all my kit in the middle of the boma, which was a very strong one, + keeping out only such beads as I wished him to use for the men's rations + daily, and ordered him to select a few men who would return with me to + Kaze; when I said, if I could not get all the men I wanted, I would try + and induce some one, who would not fear, to go on to Usui; failing which, + I would even walk back to Zanzibar for men, as nothing in the world would + ever induce me to give up the journey. + </p> + <p> + This appeal did not move him; but, without a reply, he sullenly commenced + collecting some men to accompany me back to Kaze. At first no one would + go; they then mutinied for more beads, announcing all sorts of grievances, + which they said they were always talking over to themselves, though I did + not hear them. The greatest, however, that they could get up was, that I + always paid the Wanyamuezi "temporaries" more than they got, though + "permanents." "They were the flesh, and I was the knife"; I cut and did + with them just as I liked, and they could not stand it any longer. + However, they had to stand it; and next day, when I had brought them to + reason, I gave over the charge of my tent and property to Baraka, and + commenced the return with a bad hitching cough, caused by those cold + easterly winds that blow over the plateau during the six dry months of the + years, and which are, I suppose, the Harmattan peculiar to Africa. + </p> + <p> + Next day I joined Grant once more, and found he had collected a few + Sorombo men, hoping to follow after me. I then told him all my mishaps in + Sorombo, as well as of the "blue-devil" frights that had seized all my + men. I felt greatly alarmed about the prospects of the expedition, + scarcely knowing what I should do. I resolved at last, if everything else + failed, to make up a raft at the southern end of the N'yanza, and try to + go up to the Nile in that way. My cough daily grew worse. I could not lie + or sleep on either side. Still my mind was so excited and anxious that, + after remaining one day here to enjoy Grant's society, I pushed ahead + again, taking Bombay with me, and had breakfast at Mchimeka's. + </p> + <p> + There I found the Pig, who now said he wished he had taken my offer of + beads, for he had spoken with his chief, and saw that I was right. Baraka + and the Wanguana were humbugs, and had they not opposed his going, he + would have gone then; even now, he said, he wished I would take him again + with Bombay. Though half inclined to accept his offer, which would have + saved a long trudge to Kaze, yet as he had tricked me so often, I felt + there would be no security unless I could get some coast interpreters, who + would not side with the chiefs against me as he had done. From this I went + on to Sirboko's, and spent the next day with him talking over my plans. + The rafting up the lake he thought a good scheme; but he did not think I + should ever get through Usui until all the Kaze merchants went north in a + body, for it was no use trying to force my men against their inclinations; + and if I did not take care how I handled them, he thought they would all + desert. + </p> + <p> + My cough still grew worse, and became so bad that, whilst mounting a hill + on entering Ungugu's the second day after, I blew and grunted like a + broken-winded horse, and it became so distressing I had to halt a day. In + two more marches, however, I reached Kaze, and put up with Musa's eldest + son, Abdalla, on the 2nd July, who now was transformed from a drunken + slovenly boy into the appearance of a grand swell, squatting all day as + his old father used to do. The house, however, did not feel the same—no + men respected him as they had done his father. Sheikh Said was his clerk + and constant companion, and the Tots were well fed on his goats—at + my expense, however. On hearing my fix, Abdalla said I should have men; + and, what's more, he would go with me as his father had promised to do; + but he had a large caravan detained in Ugogo, and for that he must wait. + </p> + <p> + At that moment Manua Sera was in a boma at Kigue, in alliance with the + chief of that place; but there was no hope for him now, as all the Arabs + had allied themselves with the surrounding chiefs, including Kitambi; and + had invested his position by forming a line, in concentric circles, four + deep, cutting off his supplies of water within it, so that they daily + expected to hear of his surrendering. The last news that had reached them + brought intelligence of one man killed and two Arabs wounded; whilst, on + the other side, Manua Sera had lost many men, and was put to such straits + that he had called out if it was the Arabs' determination to kill him he + would bolt again; to which the Arabs replied it was all the same; if he + ran up to the top of the highest mountain or down into hell, they would + follow after and put him to death. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—After much bother and many disappointments, as I was assured I + could get no men to help me until after the war was over, and the Arabs + had been to Ugogo, and had brought up their property, which was still + lying there, I accepted two men as guides—one named Bui, a very + small creature, with very high pretensions, who was given me by Abdalla—the + other, a steady old traveller, named Nasib (or Fortune), who was given me + by Fundi Sangoro. These two slaves, both of whom knew all the chiefs and + languages up to and including Uganda, promised me faithfully they would go + with Bombay on to Usui, and bring back porters in sufficient number for + Grant and myself to go on together. They laughed at the stories I told + them of the terror that had seized Baraka and all the Wanguana, and told + me, as old Musa had often done before, that those men, especially Baraka, + had from their first leaving Kaze made up their minds they would not enter + Usui, or go anywhere very far north. + </p> + <p> + I placed those men on the same pay as Bombay, and then tried to buy some + beads from the Arabs, as I saw it was absolutely necessary I should + increase my fast-ebbing store if I ever hoped to reach Gondokoro. The + attempt failed, as the Arabs would not sell at a rate under 2000 per + cent.; and I wrote a letter to Colonel Rigby, ordering up fifty armed men + laden with beads and pretty cloths—which would, I knew, cost me + £1000 at the least—and left once more for the north on the 5th. + </p> + <p> + Marching slowly, as my men kept falling sick, I did not reach Grant again + until the 11th. His health had greatly improved, and he had been dancing + with Ukulima, as may be seen by the accompanying woodcut. So, as I was + obliged to wait for a short time to get a native guide for Bui, Nasib and + Bombay, who would show them a jungle-path to Usui, we enjoyed our leisure + hours in shooting guinea-fowls for the pot. A report then came to us that + Suwarora had heard with displeasure that I had been endeavouring to see + him, but was deterred because evil reports concerning him had been spread. + This unexpected good news delighted me exceedingly; confirmed my belief + that Baraka, after all, was a coward, and induced me to recommend Bombay + to make his cowardice more indisputable by going on and doing what he had + feared to do. To which Bombay replied, "Of course I will. It is all folly + pulling up for every ill wind that blows, because, until one actually SEES + there is something in it, you never can tell amongst these savages—'shaves' + are so common in Africa. Besides, a man has but one life, and God is the + director of everything." "Bravo!" said I, "we will get on as long as you + keep to that way of thinking." + </p> + <p> + At length a guide was obtained, and with him came some of those men of the + Pig's who returned before; for they had a great desire to go with me, but + had been deterred, they said, by Baraka and the rest of my men. Seeing all + this, I changed my plans again, intending, on arrival at Baraka's camp, to + prevail on the whole of the party to go with me direct, which I thought + they could not now refuse, since Suwarora had sent us an invitation. + Moreover, I did not like the idea of remaining still whilst the three men + went forwards, as it would be losing time. + </p> + <p> + These separations from Grant were most annoying, but they could not be + helped; so, when all was settled here, I bade him adieu—both of us + saying we would do our best—and set out on my journey, thinking what + a terrible thing it was I could not prevail on my men to view things as I + did. Neither my experience with native chiefs, nor my money and guns, were + of any use to me, simply because my men were such incomprehensible fools, + though many of them who had travelled before ought to have known better. + </p> + <p> + More reports came to us about Suwarora, all of the most inviting nature; + but nothing else worth mentioning occurred until we reached the border of + Msalala, where an officer of M'yonga's, who said he was a bigger man than + his chief, demanded a tax, which I refused, and the dispute ended in his + snatching Nasib's gun out of his hands. I thought little of this affair + myself, beyond regretting the delay which it might occasion, as M'yonga, I + knew, would not permit such usage, if I chose to go round by his palace + and make a complaint. Both Bui and Nasib, however, were so greatly + alarmed, that before I could say a word they got the gun back again by + paying four yards merikani. We had continued bickering again, for Bui had + taken such fright at this kind of rough handling, and the "push-ahead" + manner in which I persisted "riding over the lords of the soil," that I + could hardly drag the party along. + </p> + <p> + However, on the 18th, after breakfasting at Ruhe's, we walked into + Mihambo, and took all the camp by surprise. I found the Union Jack hoisted + upon a flag-staff, high above all the trees, in the boma. Baraka said he + had done this to show the Watuta that the place was occupied by men with + guns—a necessary precaution, as all the villages in the + neighbourhood had, since my departure, been visited and plundered by them. + Lumeresi, the chief of the district, who lived ten miles to the eastward, + had been constantly pressing him to leave this post and come to his + palace, as he felt greatly affronted at our having shunned him and put up + with Ruhe. He did not want property, he said, but he could not bear that + the strangers had lived with his mtoto, or child, which Ruhe was, and yet + would not live with him. He thought Baraka's determined obstinacy on this + could only be caused by the influence of the head man of the village, and + threatened that if Baraka did not come to visit him at once, he would have + the head man beheaded. Then, shifting round a bit, he thought of ordering + his subjects to starve the visitors into submission, and said he must have + a hongo equal to Ruhe's. To all this Baraka replied, that he was merely a + servant, and as he had orders to stop where he was, he could not leave it + until I came; but to show there was no ill-feeling towards him, he sent + the chief a cloth. + </p> + <p> + These first explanations over, I entered my tent, in which Baraka had been + living, and there I found a lot of my brass wires on the ground, lying + scattered about. I did not like the look of this, so ordered Bombay to + resume his position of factotum, and count over the kit. Whilst this was + going on, a villager came to me with a wire, and asked me to change it for + a cloth. I saw at once what the game was; so I asked my friend where he + got it, on which he at once pointed to Baraka. I then heard the men who + were standing round us say one to another in under-tones, giggling with + the fun of it, "Oh, what a shame of him! Did you hear what Bana said, and + that fool's reply to it? What a shame of him to tell in that way." Without + appearing to know, or rather to hear, the by-play that was going on, I now + said to Baraka, "How is it this man has got one of my wires, for I told + you not to touch or unpack them during my absence?" To which he coolly + replied, in face of such evidence, "It is not one of your wires; I never + gave away one of yours; there are lots more wires besides yours in the + country. The man tells a falsehood; he had the wire before, but now, + seeing your cloth open, wants to exchange it." "If that is the case," I + said, taking things easy, "how is it you have opened my loads and + scattered the wires about in the tent?" "Oh, that was to take care of + them; for I thought, if they were left outside all night with the rest of + the property, some one would steal them, and I should get the blame of + it." + </p> + <p> + Further parley was useless; for, though both my wires and cloths were + short, still it was better not to kick up a row, when I had so much to do + to keep all my men in good temper for the journey. Baraka then, wishing to + beguile me, as he thought he could do, into believing him a wonderful man + for both pluck and honesty, said he had had many battles to fight with the + men since I had been gone to Kaze, for there were two strong parties in + the camp; those who, during the late rebellion at Zanzibar, had belonged + to the Arabs that sided with Sultan Majid, and were royalists, and those + who, having belonged to the rebellious Arabs, were on the opposite side. + The battle commenced, he stated, by the one side abusing the other for + their deeds during that rebellion, the rebels in this sort of contest + proving themselves the stronger. But he, heading the royalist party, soon + reduced them to order, though only for a short while, as from that point + they turned round to open mutiny for more rations; and some of the rebels + tried to kill him, which, he said, they would have done had he not settled + the matter by buying some cows for them. It was on this account he had + been obliged to open my loads. And now he had told me the case, he hoped I + would forgive him if he had done wrong. Now, the real facts of the case + were these—though I did not find them out at the time:—Baraka + had bought some slaves with my effects, and he had had a fight with some + of my men because they tampered with his temporary wife—a princess + he had picked up in Phunze. To obtain her hand he had given ten necklaces + of MY beads to her mother, and had agreed to the condition that he should + keep the girl during the journey; and after it was over, and he took her + home, he would, if his wife pleased him, give her mother ten necklaces + more. + </p> + <p> + Next day Baraka told me his heart shrank to the dimensions of a very small + berry when he saw whom I had brought with me yesterday—meaning + Bombay, and the same porters whom he had prevented going on with me + before. I said, "Pooh, nonsense; have done with such excuses, and let us + get away out of this as fast as we can. Now, like a good man, just use + your influence with the chief of the village, and try and get from him + five or six men to complete the number we want, and then we will work + round the east of Sorombo up to Usui, for Suwarora has invited us to him." + This, however, was not so easy; for Lumeresi, having heard of my arrival, + sent his Wanyapara, or grey-beards, to beg I would visit him. He had never + seen a white man in all his life, neither had his father, nor any of his + forefathers, although he had often been down to the coast; I must come and + see him, as I had seen his mtoto Ruhe. He did not want property; it was + only the pleasure of my company that he wanted, to enable him to tell all + his friends what a great man had lived in his house. + </p> + <p> + This was terrible: I saw at once that all my difficulties in Sorombo would + have to be gone through again if I went there, and groaned when I thought + what a trick the Pig had played me when I first of all came to this place; + for if I had gone on then, as I wished, I should have slipped past + Lumeresi without his knowing it. + </p> + <p> + I had to get up a storm at the grey-beards, and said I could not stand + going out of my road to see any one now, for I had already lost so much + time by Makaka's trickery in Sorombo. Bui then, quaking with fright at my + obstinacy, said, "You must—indeed you must—give in and do with + these savage chiefs as the Arabs when they travel, for I will not be a + party to riding rough-shod over them." Still I stuck out, and the + grey-beards departed to tell their chief of it. Next morning he sent them + back to say he would not be cheated out of his rights as the chief of the + district. Still I would not give in, and the whole day kept "jawing" + without effect, for I could get no man to go with me until the chief gave + his sanction. I then tried to send Bombay off with Bui, Nasib, and their + guide, by night; but though Bombay was willing, the other two hung back on + the old plea. In this state of perplexity, Bui begged I would allow him to + go over to Lumeresi and see what he could do with a present. Bui really + now was my only stand-by, so I sent him off, and next had the + mortification to find that he had been humbugged by honeyed words, as + Baraka had been with Makaka, into believing that Lumeresi was a good man, + who really had no other desire at heart than the love of seeing me. His + boma, he said, did not lie much out of my line, and he did not wish a + stitch of my cloth. So far from detaining me, he would give me as many men + as I wanted; and, as an earnest of his good intentions, he sent his copper + hatchet, the badge of office as chief of the district, as a guarantee for + me. + </p> + <p> + To wait there any longer after this, I knew, would be a mere waste of + time, so I ordered my men to pack up that moment, and we all marched over + at once to Lumeresi's, when we put up in his boma. Lumeresi was not in + then, but, on his arrival at night, he beat all his drums to celebrate the + event, and fired a musket, in reply to which I fired three shots. The same + night, whilst sitting out to make astronomical observations, I became + deadly cold—so much so, that the instant I had taken the star, to + fix my position, I turned into bed, but could not get up again; for the + cough that had stuck to me for a month then became so violent, heightened + by fever succeeding the cold fit, that before the next morning I was so + reduced that I could not stand. For the last month, too, I had not been + able to sleep on either side, as interior pressure, caused by doing so, + provoked the cough; but now I had, in addition, to be propped in position + to get any repose whatever. The symptoms, altogether, were rather + alarming, for the heart felt inflamed and ready to burst, pricking and + twingeing with every breath, which was exceedingly aggravated by constant + coughing, when streams of phlegm and bile were ejected. The left arm felt + half-paralysed, the left nostril was choked with mucus, and on the centre + of the left shoulder blade I felt a pain as if some one was branding me + with a hot iron. All this was constant; and, in addition, I repeatedly + felt severe pains—rather paroxysms of fearful twinges—in the + spleen, liver, and lungs; whilst during my sleep I had all sorts of absurd + dreams: for instance—I planned a march across Africa with Sir + Roderick Murchison; and I fancied some curious creatures, half-men and + half-monkeys, came into my camp to inform me that Petherick was waiting in + boats at the south-west corner of the N'yanza, etc., etc. + </p> + <p> + Though my mind was so weak and excited when I woke up from these trances, + I thought of nothing but the march, and how I could get out of Lumeresi's + hands. He, with the most benign countenance, came in to see me, the very + first thing in the morning, as he said, to inquire after my health; when, + to please him as much as I could, I had a guard of honour drawn up at the + tent door to fire a salute as he entered; then giving him my iron + camp-chair to sit upon, which tickled him much—for he was very + corpulent, and he thought its legs would break down with his weight—we + had a long talk, though it was as much as I could do to remember anything, + my brain was so excited and weak. Kind as he looked and spoke, he forgot + all his promises about coveting my property, and scarcely got over the + first salutation before he began begging for many things that he saw, and + more especially for a deole, in order that he might wear it on all great + occasions, to show his contemporaries what a magnanimous man his white + visitor was. I soon lost my temper whilst striving to settle the hongo. + Lumeresi would have a deole, and I would not admit that I had one. + </p> + <p> + 23d to 31st.—Next morning I was too weak to speak moderately, and + roared more like a madman than a rational being, as, breaking his faith, + he persisted in bullying me. The day after, I took pills and blistered my + chest all over, still Lumeresi would not let me alone, nor come to any + kind of terms until the 25th, when he said he would take a certain number + of pretty common cloths for his children if I would throw in a red blanket + for himself. I jumped at this concession with the greatest eagerness, paid + down my cloths on the spot; and, thinking I was free at last, ordered a + hammock to be slung on a pole, that I might leave the next day. Next + morning, however, on seeing me actually preparing to start, Lumeresi found + he could not let me go until I increased the tax by three more cloths, as + some of his family complained that they had got nothing. After some + badgering, I paid what he asked for, and ordered the men to carry me out + of the palace before anything else was done, for I would not sleep another + night where I was. Lumeresi then stood in my way, and said he would never + allow a man of his country to give me any assistance until I was well, for + he could not bear the idea of hearing it said that, after taking so many + cloths from me, he had allowed me to die in the jungles—and + dissuaded my men from obeying my orders. + </p> + <p> + In vain I appealed to his mercy, declaring that the only chance left me of + saving my life would be from the change of air in the hammock as I marched + along. He would not listen, professing humanity, whilst he meant plunder; + and I now found that he was determined not to beat the drum until I had + paid him some more, which he was to think over and settle next day. When + the next day came, he would not come near me, as he said I must possess a + deole, otherwise I would not venture on to Karague; for nobody ever yet + "saw" Rumanika without one. This suspension of business was worse than the + rows; I felt very miserable, and became worse. At last, on my offering him + anything that he might consider an equivalent for the deole if he would + but beat the drums of satisfaction, he said I might consider myself his + prisoner instead of his guest if I persisted in my obstinacy in not giving + him Rumanika's deole; and then again peremptorily ordered all of his + subjects not to assist me in moving a load. After this, veering round for + a moment on the generous tack, he offered me a cow, which I declined. + </p> + <p> + 1st to 4th.—Still I rejected the offered cow, until the 2nd, when, + finding him as dogged as ever, at the advice of my men I accepted it, + hoping thus to please him; but it was no use, for he now said he must have + two deoles, or he would never allow me to leave his palace. Every day + matters got worse and worse. Mfumbi, the small chief of Sorombo, came + over, in an Oily-Gammon kind of manner, to say Makaka had sent him over to + present his compliments to me, and express his sorrow on hearing that I + had fallen sick here. He further informed me that the road was closed + between this and Usui, for he had just been fighting there, and had killed + the chief Gomba, burnt down all his villages, and dispersed all the men in + the jungle, where they now resided, plundering every man who passed that + way. This gratuitous, wicked, humbugging terrifier helped to cause another + defeat. It was all nonsense, I knew, but both Bui and Nasib, taking + fright, begged for their discharges. In fearful alarm and anxiety, I + begged them to have patience and see the hongo settled first, for there + was no necessity, at any rate, for immediate hurry; I wished them to go on + ahead with Bombay, as in four days they could reach Suwarora's. But they + said they could not hear of it—they would not go a step beyond this. + All the chiefs on ahead would do the same as Lumeresi; the whole country + was roused. I had not even half enough cloths to satisfy the Wasui; and my + faithful followers would never consent to be witness to my being "torn to + pieces." + </p> + <p> + 5th and 6th.—The whole day and half of the next went in discussions. + At last, able for the first time to sit up a little, I succeeded in + prevailing on Bui to promise he would go to Usui as soon as the hongo was + settled, provided, as he said, I took on myself all responsibilities of + the result. This cheered me so greatly, I had my chair placed under a tree + and smoked my first pipe. On seeing this, all my men struck up a dance, to + the sound of the drums, which they carried on throughout the whole night, + never ceasing until the evening of the next day. These protracted + caperings were to be considered as their congratulation for my improvement + in health; for, until I got into my chair, they always thought I was going + to die. They then told me, with great mirth and good mimicry, of many + absurd scenes which, owing to the inflamed state of my brain, had taken + place during my interviews with Lumeresi. Bombay at this time very + foolishly told Lumeresi, if he "really wanted a deole," he must send to + Grant for one. This set the chief raving. He knew there was one in my box, + he said, and unless I gave it, the one with Grant must be brought; for + under no circumstances would he allow of my proceeding northwards until + that was given him. Bui and Nasib then gave me the slip, and slept that + night in a neighbouring boma without my knowledge. + </p> + <p> + 7th to 9th.—As things had now gone so far, I gave Lumeresi the deole + I had stored away for Rumanika, telling him, at the same time as he took + it, that he was robbing Rumanika, and not myself; but I hoped, now I had + given it, he would beat the drums. The scoundrel only laughed as he + wrapped my beautiful silk over his great broad shoulders, and said, "Yes, + this will complete our present of friendship; now then for the hongo—I + must have exactly double of all you have given." This Sorombo trick I + attributed to the instigation of Makaka, for these savages never fail to + take their revenge when they can. I had doubled back from his country, and + now he was cutting me off in front. I expected as much when the oily + blackguard Mfumbi came over from his chief to ask after my health; so, + judging from my experience with Makaka, I told Lumeresi at once to tell me + what he considered his due, for this fearful haggling was killing me by + inches. I had no more deoles, but would make that up in brass wire. He + then fixed the hongo at fifteen masango or brass wire bracelets, sixteen + cloths of sorts, and a hundred necklaces of samisami or red coral beads, + which was to pay for Grant as well as myself. I paid it down on the spot; + the drums beat the "satisfaction," and I ordered the march with the + greatest relief of mind possible. + </p> + <p> + But Bui and Nasib were not to be found; they had bolted. The shock nearly + killed me. I had walked all the way to Kaze and back again for these men, + to show mine a good example—had given them pay and treble rations, + the same as Bombay and Baraka—and yet they chose to desert. I knew + not what to do, for it appeared to me that, do what I would, we would + never succeed; and in my weakness of body and mind I actually cried like a + child over the whole affair. I would rather have died than have failed in + my journey, and yet failure seemed at this juncture inevitable. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—As I had no interpreters, and could not go forward myself, I + made up my mind at once to send back all my men with Bombay, to Grant; + after joining whom, Bombay would go back to Kaze again for other + interpreters, and on his return would pick up Grant, and bring him on + here. This sudden decision set all my men up in a flame; they swore it was + no use my trying to go on to Karague; they would not go with me; they did + not come here to be killed. If I chose to lose my life, it was no business + of theirs, but they would not be witness to it. They all wanted their + discharge at once; they would not run away, but must have a letter of + satisfaction, and then they would go back to their homes at Zanzibar. But + when they found they lost all their arguments and could not move me, they + said they would go back for Grant, but when they had done that duty, then + they would take their leave. + </p> + <p> + 10th to 15th.—This business being at last settled, I wrote to Grant + on the subject, and sent all the men off who were not sick. Thinking then + how I could best cure the disease that was keeping me down, as I found the + blister of no use, I tried to stick a packing needle, used as a seton, + into my side; but finding it was not sharp enough, in such weak hands a + mine, to go through my skin, I got Baraka to try; and he failing too, I + then made him fire me, for the coughing was so incessant I could get no + sleep at night. I had now nothing whatever to think of but making dodges + for lying easy, and for relieving my pains, or else for cooking strong + broths to give me strength, for my legs were reduced to the appearance of + pipe-sticks, until the 15th, when Baraka, in the same doleful manner as in + Sorombo, came to me and said he had something to communicate, which was so + terrible, if I heard it I should give up the march. Lumeresi was his + authority, but he would not tell it until Grant arrive. I said to him, + "Let us wait till Grant arrives; we shall then have some one with us who + won't shrink from whispers"—meaning Bombay; and so I let the matter + drop for the time being. But when Grant came, we had it out of him, and + found this terrible mystery all hung on Lumeresi's prognostications that + we never should get through Usui with so little cloth. + </p> + <p> + 16th to 19th.—At night, I had such a terrible air-catching fit, and + made such a noise whilst trying to fill my lungs, that it alarmed all the + camp, so much so that my men rushed into my tent to see if I was dying. + Lumeresi, in the morning, then went on a visiting excursion into the + district, but no sooner left than the chief of Isamiro, whose place lies + close to the N'yanza, came here to visit him (17th); but after waiting a + day to make friends with me, he departed (18th), as I heard afterwards, to + tell his great Mhuma chief, Rohinda, the ruler of Ukhanga, to which + district this state of Bogue belongs, what sort of presents I had given to + Lumeresi. He was, in fact, a spy whom Rohinda had sent to ascertain what + exactions had been made from me, as he, being the great chief, was + entitled to the most of them himself. On Lumeresi's return, all the men of + the village, as well as mine, set up a dance, beating the drums all day + and all night. + </p> + <p> + 20th to 21st.—Next night they had to beat their drums for a very + different purpose, as the Watuta, after lifting all of Makaka's cattle in + Sorombo, came hovering about, and declared they would never cease fighting + until they had lifted all those that Lumeresi harboured round his boma; + for it so happened that Lumeresi allowed a large party of Watosi, alias + Wahuma, to keep their cattle in large stalls all round his boma, and these + the Watuta had now set their hearts upon. After a little reflection, + however, they thought better of it, as they were afraid to come in at once + on account of my guns. + </p> + <p> + Most gladdening news this day came in to cheer me. A large mixed caravan + of Arabs and coast-men, arriving from Karague, announced that both + Rumanika and Suwarora were anxiously looking out for us, wondering why we + did not come. So great, indeed, was Suwarora's desire to see us, that he + had sent four men to invite us, and they would have been here now, only + that one of them fell sick on the way, and the rest had to stop for him. I + cannot say what pleasure this gave me; my fortune, I thought, was made; + and so I told Baraka, and pretended he did not believe the news to be + true. Without loss of time I wrote off to Grant, and got these men to + carry the letter. + </p> + <p> + Next day (22d) the Wasui from Suwarora arrived. They were a very gentle, + nice-dispositioned-looking set of men—small, but well knit together. + They advanced to my tent with much seeming grace; then knelt at my feet, + and began clapping their hands together, saying, at the same time, "My + great chief, my great chief, I hope you are well; for Suwarora, having + heard of your detention here, has sent us over to assure you that all + those reports that have been circulated regarding his ill-treatment of + caravans are without foundation; he is sorry for what has happened to + deter your march, and hopes you will at once come to visit him." I then + told them all that had happened—how Grant and myself were situated—and + begged them to assist me by going off to Grant's camp to inspire all the + men there with confidence, and bring my rear property to me—saying, + as they agreed to do so, "Here are some cloths and some beads for your + expenses, and when you return I will give you more." Baraka at once, + seeing this, told me they were not trustworthy, for at Mihambo an old man + had come there and tried to inveigle him in the same manner, but he kicked + him out of the camp, because he knew he was a touter, who wished merely to + allure him with sweet words to fleece him afterwards. I then wrote to + Grant another letter to be delivered by these men. + </p> + <p> + Lumeresi no sooner heard of the presents I had given them, than he flew + into a passion, called them imposters, abused them for not speaking to him + before they came to me, and said he would not allow them to go. High words + then ensued. I said the business was mine, and not his; he had no right to + interfere, and they should go. Still Lumeresi was obstinate, and + determined they should not, for I was his guest; he would not allow any + one to defraud me. It was a great insult to himself, if true, that + Suwarora should attempt to snatch me out of his house; and he could not + bear to see me take these strangers by the hand, when, as we have seen, it + took him so long to entice me to his den, and he could not prevail over me + until he actually sent his copper hatchet. + </p> + <p> + When this breeze blew over, by Lumeresi's walking away, I told the Wasui + not to mind him, but to do just as I bid them. They said they had their + orders to bring me, and if Lumeresi would not allow them to go for Grant, + they would stop where they were, for they knew that if Suwarora found them + delaying long, he would send more men to look after them. There was no + peace yet, however; for Lumeresi, finding them quietly settled down eating + with my men, ordered them out of his district, threatening force if they + did not comply at once. I tried my best for them, but the Wasui, fearing + to stop any longer, said they would take leave to see Suwarora, and in + eight days more they would come back again, bringing something with them, + the sight of which would make Lumeresi quake. Further words were now + useless, so I gave them more cloth to keep them up to the mark, and sent + them off. Baraka, who seemed to think this generosity a bit of insanity, + grumbled that if I had cloths to throw away it would have been better had + I disposed of them to my own men. + </p> + <p> + Next day (26th), as I was still unwell, I sent four men to Grant with + inquiries how he was getting on, and a request for medicines. The + messengers took four days to bring back the information that Bombay had + not returned from Kaze, but that Grant, having got assistance, hoped to + break ground about the 5th of next month. They brought me at the same time + information that the Watuta had invested Ruhe's, after clearing off all + the cattle in the surrounding villages, and had proclaimed their intention + of serving out Lumeresi next. In consequence of this, Lumeresi daily + assembled his grey-beards and had councils of war in his drum-house; but + though his subjects sent to him constantly for troops, he would not assist + them. + </p> + <p> + Another caravan then arrived (31st) from Karague, in which I found an old + friend, of half Arab breed, called Saim, who whilst I was residing with + Sheikh Snay at Kaze on my former expedition, taught me the way to make + plantain-wine. He, like the rest of the porters in the caravan, wore a + shirt of fig-tree bark called mbugu. As I shall have frequently to use + this word in the course of the Journal, I may here give an explanation of + its meaning. The porter here mentioned told me that the people about the + equator all wore this kind of covering, and made it up of numerous pieces + of bark sewn together, which they stripped from the trees after cutting + once round the trunk above and below, and then once more down the tree + from the upper to the lower circular cutting. This operation did not kill + the trees, because, if they covered the wound, whilst it was fresh, well + over with plaintain-leaves, shoots grew down from above, and a new bark + came all over it. The way they softened the bark, to make it like cloth, + was by immersion in water, and a good strong application of a mill-headed + mallet, which ribbed it like corduroy. <a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a> Saim told + me he had lived ten years in Uganda, had crossed the Nile, and had traded + eastward as far as the Masai country. He thought the N'yanza was the + sources of the Ruvuma river; as the river which drained the N'yanza, after + passing between Uganda and Usoga, went through Unyoro, and then all round + the Tanganyika lake into the Indian Ocean, south of Zanzibar. Kiganda, he + also said, he knew as well as his own tongue; and as I wanted an + interpreter, he would gladly take service with me. This was just what I + wanted—a heaven-born stroke of luck. I seized at his offer with + avidity, gave him a new suit of clothes, which made him look quite a + gentleman, and arranged to send him next day with a letter to Grant. + </p> + <p> + 1st and 2d.—A great hubbub and confusion now seized all the place, + for the Watuta were out, and had killed a woman of the place who had + formerly been seized by them in war, but had since escaped and resided + here. To avenge this, Lumeresi headed his host, and was accompanied by my + men; but they succeeded in nothing save in frightening off their enemies, + and regaining possession of the body of the dead woman. Then another + hubbub arose, for it was discovered that three Wahuma women were missing + (2d); and, as they did not turn up again, Lumeresi suspected the men of + the caravan, which left with Saim, must have taken them off as slaves. He + sent for the chief of the caravan, and had him brought back to account for + this business. Of course the man swore he knew nothing about the matter, + whilst Lumeresi swore he should stop there a prisoner until the women were + freed, as it was not the first time his women had been stolen in this + manner. About the same time a man of this place, who had been to Sorombo + to purchase cows, came in with a herd, and was at once seized by Lumeresi; + for, during his absence, one of Lumeresi's daughters had been discovered + to be with child, and she, on being asked who was the cause of it, pointed + out that man. To compensate for damage done to himself, as his daughter by + this means had become reduced to half her market-value, Lumeresi seized + all the cattle this man had brought with him. + </p> + <p> + 3d to 10th.—When two days had elapsed, one of the three missing + Wahuma women was discovered in a village close by. As she said she had + absconded because her husband had ill-treated her, she was flogged, to + teach her better conduct. It was reported they had been seen in M'yonga's + establishment; and I was at the same time informed that the husbands who + were out in search of them would return, as M'yonga was likely to demand a + price for them if they were claimed, in virtue of their being his rightful + property under the acknowledged law of buni, or findings-keepings. + </p> + <p> + For the next four days nothing but wars and rumours of wars could be + heard. The Watuta were out in all directions plundering cattle and burning + villages, and the Wahuma of this place had taken such fright, they made a + stealthy march with all their herds to a neighbouring chief, to whom it + happened that one of Lumeresi's grey-beards was on a visit. They thus + caught a Tartar; for the grey-beard no sooner saw them than he went and + flogged them all back again, rebuking them on the way for their + ingratitude to their chief, who had taken them in when they sought his + shelter, and was now deserted by them on the first alarm of war. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—Wishing now to gain further intelligence of Grant, I ordered + some of my men to carry a letter to him; but they all feared the Watuta + meeting them on the way, and would not. Just then a report came in that + one of Lumeresi's sons, who had gone near the capital of Ukhanga to + purchase cows, was seized by Rohinda in consequence of the Isamiro chief + telling him that Lumeresi had taken untold wealth from me, and he was to + be detained there a prisoner until Lumeresi either disgorged, or sent me + on to be fleeced again. Lumeresi, of course, was greatly perplexed at + this, and sought my advice, but could get nothing out of me, for I laughed + in my sleeve, and told him such was the consequence of his having been too + greedy. + </p> + <p> + 11th to 15th.—Masudi with his caravan arrived from Mchimeka—Ungurue + "the Pig," who had led me astray, was, by the way, his kirangozi or + caravan-leader. Masudi told us he had suffered most severely from losses + by his men running away, one after the other, as soon as they received + their pay. He thought Grant would soon join me, as, the harvest being all + in, the men about Rungua would naturally be anxious for service. He had + had fearful work with M'yonga, having paid him a gun, some gunpowder, and + a great quantity of cloth; and he had to give the same to Ruhe, with the + addition of twenty brass wires, one load of mzizima, and one load of red + coral beads. This was startling, and induced me to send all the men I + could prudently spare off to Grant at once, cautioning him to avoid + Ruhe's, as Lumeresi had promised me he would not allow one other thing to + be taken from me. Lumeresi by this time was improving, from lessons on the + policy of moderation which I had been teaching him; for when he tried to + squeeze as much more out of Masudi as Ruhe had taken, he gave way, and let + him off cheaply at my intercession. He had seen enough to be persuaded + that this unlimited taxation or plunder system would turn out a losing + game, such as Unyamyembe and Ugogo were at that time suffering from. + Moreover, he was rather put to shame by my saying, "Pray, who now is + biggest—Ruhe or yourself? for any one entering this country would + suspect that he was, as he levies the first tax, and gives people to + understand that, by their paying it, the whole district will be free to + them; such at any rate he told me, and so it appears he told Masudi. If + you are the sultan, and will take my advice, I would strongly recommend + your teaching Ruhe a lesson, by taking from him what the Arabs paid, and + giving it back to Masudi. + </p> + <p> + At midnight (16th) I was startled in my sleep by the hurried tramp of + several men, who rushed in to say they were Grant's porters—Bogue + men who had deserted him. Grant, they said, in incoherent, short, rapid, + and excited sentences, was left by them standing under a tree, with + nothing but his gun in his hand. All the Wanguana had been either killed + or driven away by M'yonga's men, who all turned out and fell upon the + caravan, shooting, spearing, and plundering, until nothing was left. The + porters then, seeing Grant all alone, unable to help him, bolted off to + inform me and Lumeresi, as the best thing they could do. Though + disbelieving the story in all its minutiae, I felt that something serious + must have happened; so, without a moment's delay, I sent off the last of + my men strong enough to walk to succour Grant, carrying with them a bag of + beads. Baraka then stepped outside my tent, and said in a loud voice, + purposely for my edification, "There, now, what is the use of thinking any + more about going to Karague? I said all along it was impossible"; upon + hearing which I had him up before all the remaining men, and gave him a + lecture, saying, happen what would, I must die or go on with the journey, + for shame would not allow me to give way as Baraka was doing. Baraka + replied, he was not afraid—he only meant to imply that men could not + act against impossibilities. "Impossibilities!" I said; "what is + impossible? Could I not go on as a servant with the first caravan, or buy + up a whole caravan if I liked? What is impossible? For Godsake don't try + any more to frighten my men, for you have nearly killed me already in + doing so." + </p> + <p> + Next day (17th) I received a letter from Grant, narrating the whole of his + catastrophes:— + </p> + <p> + "In the Jungles, near M'yonga's, 16th Sept. 1861. + </p> + <p> + "My dear Speke,—The caravan was attacked, plundered, and the men + driven to the winds, while marching this morning into M'yonga's country. + </p> + <p> + "Awaking at cock-crow, I roused the camp, all anxious to rejoin you; and + while the loads were being packed, my attention was drawn to an angry + discussion between the head men and seven or eight armed fellows sent by + Sultan M'yonga, to insist upon my putting up for the day in his village. + They were summarily told that as YOU had already made him a present, he + need not expect a visit from ME. Adhering, I doubt not, to their master's + instructions, they officiously constituted themselves our guides till we + chose to strike off their path, when, quickly heading our party, they + stopped the way, planted their spears, and DARED our advance! + </p> + <p> + "This menace made us firmer in our determination, and we swept past the + spears. After we had marched unmolested for some seven miles, a loud + yelping from the woods excited our attention, and a sudden rush was made + upon us by, say two hundred men, who came down seemingly in great glee. In + an instant, at the caravan's centre, they fastened upon the poor porters. + The struggle was short; and with the threat of an arrow or spear at their + breasts, men were robbed of their cloths and ornaments, loads were yielded + and run away with before resistance could be organised; only three men of + a hundred stood by me, the others, whose only thought was their lives, + fled into the woods, where I went shouting for them. One man, little Rahan—rip + as he is—stood with cocked gun, defending his load, against five + savages with uplifted spears. No one else could be seen. Two or three were + reported killed; some were wounded. Beads, boxes, cloths, etc., lay + strewed about the woods. In fact, I felt wrecked. My attempt to go and + demand redress from the sultan was resisted, and, in utter despair, I + seated myself among a mass of rascals jeering round me, and insolent after + the success of the day. Several were dressed in the very cloths, etc., + they had stolen from my men. + </p> + <p> + "In the afternoon, about fifteen men and loads were brought me, with a + message from the sultan, that the attack had been a mistake of his + subjects—that one man had had a hand cut off for it, and that all + the property would be restored! + </p> + <p> + "Yours sincerely, J. W. Grant." + </p> + <p> + Now, judging from the message sent to Grant by M'yonga, it appeared to me + that his men had mistaken their chief's orders, and had gone one step + beyond his intentions. It was obvious that the chief merely intended to + prevent Grant from passing through or evading his district without paying + a hongo, else he would not have sent his men to invite him to his palace, + doubtless with instructions, if necessary, to use force. This appears the + more evident from the fact of his subsequent contrition, and finding it + necessary to send excuses when the property was in his hands; for these + chiefs, grasping as they are, know they must conform to some kind of + system, to save themselves from a general war, or the avoidance of their + territories by all travellers in future. To assist Grant, I begged + Lumeresi to send him some aid in men at once; but he refused, on the plea + that M'yonga was at war with him, and would kill them if they went. This + was all the more provoking, as Grant, in a letter next evening, told me he + could not get all his men together again, and wished to know what should + be done. He had recovered all the property except six loads of beads, + eighty yards of American sheeting, and many minor articles, besides what + had been rifled more or less from every load. In the same letter he asked + me to deliver up a Mhuma woman to a man who came with the bearers of his + missive, as she had made love to Saim at Ukulima's, and had bolted with my + men to escape from her husband. + </p> + <p> + On inquiring into this matter, she told me her face had been her + misfortune, for the man who now claimed her stole her from her parents at + Ujiji, and forcibly made her his wife, but ever since had ill-treated her, + often thrashing her, and never giving her proper food or clothing. It was + on this account she fell in love with Saim; for he, taking compassion on + her doleful stories, had promised to keep her as long as he travelled with + me, and in the end to send her back to her parents at Ujiji. She was a + beautiful woman, with gazelle eyes, oval face, high thin nose, and fine + lips, and would have made a good match for Saim, who had a good deal of + Arab blood in him, and was therefore, in my opinion, much of the same + mixed Shem-Hamitic breed. But as I did not want more women in my camp, I + gave her some beads, and sent her off with the messenger who claimed her, + much against my own feelings. I had proposed to Grant that, as Lumeresi's + territories extended to within eight miles of M'yonga's, he should try to + move over the Msalala border by relays, when I would send some Bogue men + to meet him; for though Lumeresi would not risk sending his men into the + clutches of M'yonga, he was most anxious to have another white visitor. + </p> + <p> + 20th and 21st.—I again urged Lumeresi to help on Grant, saying it + was incumbent on him to call M'yonga to account for maltreating Grant's + porters, who were his own subjects, else the road would be shut up—he + would lose all the hongos he laid on caravans—and he would not be + able to send his own ivory down to the coast. This appeal had its effect: + he called on his men to volunteer, and twelve porters came forward, who no + sooner left, than in came another letter from Grant, informing me that he + had collected almost enough men to march with, and that M'yonga had + returned on of the six missing loads, and promised to right him in + everything. + </p> + <p> + Next day, however, I had from Grant two very opposite accounts—one, + in the morning, full of exultation, in which he said he hoped to reach + Ruhe's this very day, as his complement of porters was then completed; + while by the other, which came in the evening, I was shocked to hear that + M'yonga, after returning all the loads, much reduced by rifling, had + demanded as a hongo two guns, two boxed ammunition, forty brass wires, and + 160 yards of American sheeting, in default of which he, Grant, must lend + M'yonga ten Wanguana to build a boma on the west of his district, to + enable him to fight some Wasona who were invading his territory, otherwise + he would not allow Grant to move from his palace. Grant knew not what to + do. He dared not part with the guns, because he knew it was against my + principle, and therefore deferred the answer until he heard from me, + although all his already collected porters were getting fidgety, and two + had bolted. In this fearful fix I sent Baraka off with strict orders to + bring Grant away at any price, except the threatened sacrifice of men, + guns, and ammunition, which I would not listen to, as one more day's delay + might end in further exactions; at the same time, I cautioned him to save + my property as far as he could, for it was to him that M'yonga had + formerly said that what I paid him should do for all. + </p> + <p> + Some of M'yonga's men who had plundered Grant now "caught a Tartar." After + rifling his loads of a kilyndo, or bark box of beads, they, it appeared, + received orders from M'yonga to sell a lot of female slaves, amongst whom + were the two Wahuma women who had absconded from this. The men in charge, + not knowing their history, brought them for sale into this district, where + they were instantly recognised by some of Lumeresi's men, and brought in + to him. The case was not examined at once, Lumeresi happening to be + absent; so, to make good their time, the men in charge brought their beads + to me to be exchanged for something else, not knowing that both camps were + mine, and that they held my beads and not Grant's. Of course I took them + from them, but did not give them a flogging, as I knew if I did so they + would at once retaliate upon Grant. The poor Wahuma women, as soon as + Lumeresi arrived, were put to death by their husbands, because, by + becoming slaves, they had broken the laws of their race. + </p> + <p> + 22d to 24th.—At last I began to recover. All this exciting news, + with the prospect of soon seeing Grant, did me a world of good,—so + much so, that I began shooting small birds for specimens—watching + the blacksmiths as they made tools, spears, ad bracelets—and + doctoring some of the Wahuma women who came to be treated for ophthalmia, + in return for which they gave me milk. The milk, however, I could not boil + excepting in secrecy, else they would have stopped their donations on the + plea that this process would be an incantation or bewitchment, from which + their cattle would fall sick and dry up. I now succeeded in getting + Lumeresi to send his Wanyapara to go and threaten M'yonga, that if he did + not release Grant at once, we would combine to force him to do so. They, + however, left too late, for the hongo had been settled, as I was informed + by a letter from Grant next day, brought to my by Bombay, who had just + returned from Kaze after six weeks' absence. He brought with him old Nasib + and another man, and told me both Bui and Nasib had hidden themselves in a + Boma close to Lumeresi's the day when my hongo was settled; but they + bolted the instant the drums beat, and my men fired guns to celebrate the + event, supposing that the noise was occasioned by our fighting with + Lumeresi. These cowards then made straight for Kaze, when Fundi Sangoro + gave Nasib a flogging for deserting me, and made him so ashamed of his + conduct that he said he would never do it again. Bui also was flogged, + but, admitting himself to be a coward, was set to the "right-about." With + him Bombay also brought three new deoles, for which I had to pay 160 + dollars, and news that the war with Manua Sera was not then over. He had + effected his escape in the usual manner, and was leading the Arabs another + long march after him. + </p> + <p> + Expecting to meet Grant this morning (25th), I strolled as far as my + strength and wind would allow me towards Ruhe's; but I was sold, for Ruhe + had detained him for a hongo. Lumeresi also having heard of it, tried to + interpose, according to a plan arranged between us in case of such a thing + happening, by sending his officers to Ruhe, with an order not to check my + "brother's" march, as I had settled accounts for all. Later in the day, + however, I heard from Grant that Ruhe would not let him go until he had + paid sixteen pretty cloths, six wires, one gun, one box of ammunition, and + one load of mzizima beads, coolly saying that I had only given him a + trifle, under the condition that, when the big caravan arrived, Grant + would make good the rest. I immediately read this letter to Lumeresi, and + asked him how I should answer it, as Grant refused to pay anything until I + gave the order. + </p> + <p> + To which Lumeresi replied, Ruhe, "my child," could not dare to interfere + with Grant after his officers arrived, and advised me to wait until the + evening. At all events, if there were any further impediments, he himself + would go over there with a force and release Grant. In the evening another + messenger arrived from Grant, giving a list of his losses and expenses at + M'yonga's. They amounted to an equivalent of eight loads, and were as + follows:—100 yards cloth, and 4600 necklaces of beads (these had + been set aside as the wages paid to the porters, but being in my custody, + I had to make them good); 300 necklaces of beads stolen from the loads; + one brass wire stolen; one sword-bayonet stolen; Grant's looking-glass + stolen; one saw stolen; one box ammunition stolen. Then paid in hongo, 160 + yards cloth; 150 necklaces; one scarlet blanket, double; one case + ammunition; ten brass wires. Lastly, there was one donkey beaten to death + by the savages. This was the worst of all; for this poor brute carried me + on the former journey to the southern end of the N'yanza, and in + consequence was a great pet. + </p> + <p> + As nothing further transpired, and I was all in the dark (26th), I wrote + to Grant telling him of my interviews with Lumeresi, and requesting him to + pay nothing; but it was too late, for Grant, to my inexpressible delight, + was the next person I saw; he walked into camp, and then he was a good + laugh over all our misfortunes. Poor Grant, he had indeed had a most + troublesome time of it. The scoundrel Ruhe, who only laughed at Lumeresi's + orders, had stopped his getting supplies of food for himself and his men; + told him it was lucky that he came direct to the palace, for full + preparations had been made for stopping him had he attempted to avoid it; + would not listen to any reference being made to avoid myself; badgered and + bullied over every article that he extracted; and, finally, when he found + compliance with his extortionate requests was not readily granted, he beat + the wardrums to frighten the porters, and ordered the caravan out of his + palace, to where he said they would find his men ready to fight it out + with them. It happened that Grant had just given Ruhe a gun when my note + arrived, on which they made an agreement, that it was to be restored, + provided that, after the full knowledge of all these transactions had + reached us, it was both Lumeresi's and my desire that it should be so. + </p> + <p> + I called Lumeresi (27th), and begged he would show whether he was the + chief or not, by requiring Ruhe to disgorge the property he had taken from + me. His Wanyapara had been despised, and I had been most unjustly treated. + Upon this the old chief hung down his head, and said it touched his heart + more than words could tell to hear my complaint, for until I came that way + no one had come, and I had paid him handsomely. He fully appreciated the + good service I had done to him and his country by opening a road which all + caravans for the future would follow if property dealt with. Having two + heads in a country was a most dangerous thing, but it could not be helped + for the present, as his hands were too completely occupied already. There + were Rohinda, the Watuta, and M'yonga, whom he must settle with before he + could attend to Ruhe; but when he was free, then Ruhe should know who was + the chief. To bring the matter to a climax, Mrs. Lumeresi then said she + ought to have something, because Ruhe was her son, whilst Lumeresi was + only her second husband and consort, for Ruhe was born to her by her + former husband. She therefore was queen. + </p> + <p> + Difficulties now commenced again (28th). All the Wanguana struck, and said + they would go no further. I argued—they argued; they wanted more pay—I + would not give more. Bombay, who appeared the only one of my men anxious + to go on with Grant and myself, advised me to give in, else they would all + run away, he said. I still stuck out, saying that if they did go, they + should be seized on the coast and cast into jail for desertion. I had sent + for fifty more men on the same terms as themselves, and nothing in the + world would make me alter what had been established at the British + Consulate. There all their engagements were written down in the + office-book, and the Consul was our judge. + </p> + <p> + 29th to 4th.—This shut them up, but at night two of them deserted; + the Wanyamuezi porters also deserted, and I had to find more. Whilst this + was going on, I wrote letters and packed up my specimens, and sent them + back by my late valet, Rahan, who also got orders to direct Sheikh Said to + seize the two men who deserted, and take them down chained to the coast + when he went there. On the 4th, Lumeresi was again greatly perplexed by + his sovereign Rohinda calling on him for some cloths; he must have thirty + at least, else he would not give up Lumeresi's son. Further, he commanded + in a bullying tone that all the Wahuma who were with Lumeresi should be + sent to him at once, adding, at the same time, if his royal mandate was + not complied with as soon as he expected, he would at once send a force to + seize Lumeresi, and place another man in his stead to rule over the + district. + </p> + <p> + Lumeresi, on hearing this, first consulted me, saying his chief was + displeased with him, accusing him of being too proud, in having at once + two such distinguished guests, and meant by these acts only to humble him. + I replied, if that was the case, the sooner he allowed us to go, the + better it would be for him; and, reminding him of his original promise to + give me assistance on to Usui, said he could do so now with a very good + grace. + </p> + <p> + Quite approving himself of this suggestion, Lumeresi then gave me one of + his officers to be my guide—his name was Sangizo. This man no sooner + received his orders than, proud of his office as the guide of such a + distinguished caravan, he set to work to find us porters. Meanwhile my + Wasui friends, who left on the 25th of August, returned, bearing what + might be called Suwarora's mace—a long rod of brass bound up in + stick charms, and called Kaquenzingiriri, "the commander of all things." + This they said was their chief's invitation to see us, and sent this + Kaquenzingiriri, to command us respect wherever we went. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—Without seeing us again, Lumeresi, evidently ashamed of the + power held over him by this rod of Suwarora's, walked off in the night, + leaving word that he was on his way to Ruhe's, to get back my gun and all + the other things that had been taken from Grant. The same night a large + herd of cattle was stolen from the boma without any one knowing it; so + next morning, when the loss was discovered, all the Wahuma set off on the + spoor to track them down; but with what effect I never knew. + </p> + <p> + As I had now men enough to remove half our property, I made a start of it, + leaving Grant to bring up the rest. I believe I was a most miserable + spectre in appearance, puffing and blowing at each step I took, with + shoulder drooping, and left arm hanging like a dead leg, which I was + unable ever to swing. Grant, remarking this, told me then, although fro a + friendly delicacy he had abstained from saying so earlier, that my + condition, when he first saw me on rejoining, gave him a sickening shock. + Next day (7th) he came up with the rest of the property, carried by men + who had taken service for that one march only. + </p> + <p> + Before us now lay a wilderness of five marches' duration, as the few + villages that once lined it had all been depopulated by the Sorombo people + and the Watuta. We therefore had to lay in rations for those days, and as + no men could be found who would take service to Karague, we filled up our + complement with men at exorbitant wages to carry our things on to Usui. At + this place, to our intense joy, three of Sheikh Said's boys came to us + with a letter from Rigby; but, on opening it, our spirits at once fell far + below zero, for it only informed us that he had sent us all kinds of nice + things, and letters from home, which were packed up in boxes, and + despatched from the coast on the 30th October 1860. + </p> + <p> + The boys then told me that a merchant, nickname Msopora, had left the + boxes in Ugogo, in charge of some of those Arabs who were detained there, + whilst he went rapidly round by the south, following up the Ruaha river to + Usanga and Usenga, whence he struck across to Kaze. Sheikh Said, they + said, sent his particular respects to me; he had heard of Grant's + disasters with great alarm. If he could be of service, he would readily + come to me; but he had dreamed three times that he saw me marching into + Cairo, which, as three times were lucky, he was sure would prove good, and + he begged I would still keep my nose well to the front, and push boldly + on. Manua Sera was still in the field, and all was uncertain. Bombay then + told me—he had forgotten to do so before—that when he was last + at Kaze, Sheikh said told him he was sure we would succeed if both he and + myself pulled together, although it was well known no one else of my party + wished to go northwards. + </p> + <p> + With at last a sufficiency of porters, we all set out together, walking + over a new style of country. Instead of the constantly-recurring outcrops + of granite, as in Unyamuezi, with valleys between, there were only two + lines of little hills visible, one right and one left of us, a good way + off; whilst the ground over which we were travelling, instead of being + confined like a valley, rose in long high swells of sandstone formation, + covered with small forest-trees, among which flowers like primroses, only + very much larger, and mostly of a pink colour, were frequently met with. + Indeed, we ought all to have been happy together, for all my men were paid + and rationed trebly—far better than they would have been if they had + been travelling with any one else; but I had not paid all, as they + thought, proportionably, and therefore there were constant heartburnings, + with strikes and rows every day. It was useless to tell them that they + were all paid according to their own agreements—that all + short-service men had a right to expect more in proportion to their work + than long-service ones; they called it all love and partiality, and in + their envy would think themselves ill-used. + </p> + <p> + At night the kirangozi would harangue the camp, cautioning all hands to + keep together on the line of march, as the Watuta were constantly hovering + about, and the men should not squabble and fight with their master, else + no more white men would come this way again. On the 11th we were out of + Bogue, in the district of Ugomba, and next march brought us into Ugombe + (12th), where we crossed the Ukongo nullah, draining westwards to the + Malagarai river. Here some of the porters, attempting to bolt, were + intercepted by my coast-men and had a fight of it, for they fired arrows, + and in return the coast-men cut their bows. The whole camp, of course, was + in a blaze at this; their tribe was insulted, and they would not stand it, + until Bombay put down their pride with a few strings of beads, as the best + means of restoring peace in the camp. + </p> + <p> + At this place we were visited by the chief of the district, Pongo + (Bush-boc), who had left his palace to see us and invite us his way, for + he feared we might give him the slip by going west into Uyofu. He sent us + a cow, and said he should like some return; for Masudi, who had gone + ahead, only gave him a trifle, professing to be our vanguard, and telling + him that as soon as we came with the large caravan we would satisfy him to + his heart's content. We wished for an interview, but he would not see us, + as he was engaged looking into his magic horn, with an endeavour to see + what sort of men we were, as none of our sort had ever come that way + before. + </p> + <p> + The old sort of thing occurred again. I sent him one kitambi and eight + yards kiniki, explaining how fearfully I was reduced from theft and + desertions, and begging he would have mercy; but instead of doing so he + sent the things back in a huff, after a whole day's delay, and said he + required, besides, one sahari, one kitambi, and eight yards kiniki. In a + moment I sent them over, and begged he would beat the drums; but no, he + thought he was entitled to ten brass wires, in addition, and would accept + them at his palace the next day, as he could not think of allowing us to + leave his country until we had done him that honour, else all the + surrounding chiefs would call him inhospitable. + </p> + <p> + Too knowing now to be caught with such chaff, I told him, through Bombay, + if he would consider the ten brass wires final, I would give them, and + then go to his palace, not otherwise. He acceded to this, but no sooner + got them, than he broke his faith, and said he must either have more + pretty cloths, or five more brass wires, and then, without doubt, he would + beat the drums. A long badgering bargain ensued, at which I made all my + men be present as witnesses, and we finally concluded the hongo with four + more brass wires. + </p> + <p> + The drums then no sooner beat the satisfaction, than the Wasui + mace-bearers, in the most feeling and good-mannered possible manner, + dropped down on their knees before me, and congratulated me on the + cessation of this tormenting business. Feeling much freer, we now went + over and put up in Pong's palace, for we had to halt there a day to + collect more porters, as half my men had just bolted. This was by no means + an easy job, for all my American sheeting was out, and so was the kiniki. + Pongo then for the first time showed himself, sneaking about with an + escort, hiding his head in a cloth lest our "evil eyes" might bewitch him. + Still he did us a good turn; for on the 16th he persuaded his men to take + service with us at the enormous hire of ten necklaces of beads per man for + every day's march—nearly ten times what an Arab pays. Fowls were as + plentiful here as elsewhere, though the people only kept them to sell to + travellers, or else for cutting them open for diving purposes, by + inspection of their blood and bones. + </p> + <p> + From the frying pan we went into the fire in crossing from Ugombe into the + district of Wanga, where we beat up the chief, N'yaruwamba, and at once + went into the hongo business. He offered a cow to commence with, which I + would not accept until the tax was paid, and then I made my offering of + two wires, one kitambi, and one kisutu. Badgering then commenced: I must + add two wires, and six makete or necklaces of mzizima beads, the latter + being due to the chief for negotiating the tax. When this addition was + paid, we should be freed by beat of drum. + </p> + <p> + I complied at once, by way of offering a special mark of respect and + friendship, and on the reliance that he would keep his word. The + scoundrel, however, no sooner got the articles, than he said a man had + just come there to inform him that I gave Pongo ten wires and ten cloths; + he, therefore, could not be satisfied until I added one more wire, when, + without fail, he would beat the drums. It was given, after many angry + words; but it was the old story over again—he would have one more + wire and a cloth, or else he would not allow us to proceed on the morrow. + My men, this time really provoked, said they would fight it out;—a + king breaking his word in that way! But in the end the demand had to be + paid; and at last, at 9 P.M., the drums beat the satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + From this we went on to the north end of Wanga, in front of which was a + wilderness, separating the possessions of Rohinda from those of Suwarora. + We put up in a boma, but were not long ensconced there when the villagers + got up a pretext for a quarrel, thinking they could plunder us of all our + goods, and began pitching into my men. We, however, proved more than a + match for them. Our show of guns frightened them all out of the place; my + men then gave chase, firing off in the air, which sent them flying over + the fields, and left us to do there as we liked until night, when a few of + the villagers came back and took up their abode with us quietly. Next, + after dark, the little village was on the alert again. The Watuta were out + marching, and it was rumoured that they were bound for M'yaruwamba's. The + porters who were engaged at Pongo's now gave us the slip: we were + consequently detained here next day (19th), when, after engaging a fresh + set, we crossed the wilderness, and in Usui put up with Suwarora's border + officer of this post, N'yamanira. + </p> + <p> + Here we were again brought to a standstill. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII. Usui + </h2> + <p> + Taxation recommenced—A Great Doctor—Suwarora pillaging—The + Arabs—Conference with an Ambassador from Uganda—Disputes in + Camp—Rivalry of Bombay and Baraka—Departure from the + Inhospitable Districts. + </p> + <p> + We were now in Usui, and so the mace-bearers, being on their own ground + forgot their manners, and peremptorily demanded their pay before they + would allow us to move one step farther. At first I tried to stave the + matter off, promising great rewards if they took us quickly on to + Suwarora; but they would take no alternative—their rights were four + wires each. I could not afford such a sum, and tried to beat them down, + but without effect; for they said, they had it in their power to detain us + here a whole month, and they could get us bullied at every stage by the + officers of the stations. No threats of reporting them to their chief had + any effect, so, knowing that treachery in these countries was a powerful + enemy, I ordered them to be paid. N'yamanira, the Mkungu, then gave us a + goat and two pots of pombe, begging, at the same time, for four wires, + which I paid, hoping thus to get on in the morning. + </p> + <p> + I then made friends with him, and found he was a great doctor as well as + an officer. In front of his hut he had his church or uganga—a tree, + in which was fixed a blaue boc's horn charged with magic powder, and a + zebra's hoof, suspended by a string over a pot of water sunk in the earth + below it. His badges of office he had tied on his head; the butt of a + shell, representing the officer's badge, being fixed on the forehead, + whilst a small sheep's horn, fixed jauntily over the temple, denoted that + he was a magician. Wishing to try my powers in magical arts, as I laughed + at his church, he begged me to produce an everlasting spring of water by + simply scratching the ground. He, however, drew short up, to the intense + delight of my men, on my promising that I would do so if he made one + first. + </p> + <p> + At night, 22d, a steel scabbard and some cloths were extracted from our + camp, so I begged my friend the great doctor would show us the use of his + horn. This was promised, but never performed. I then wished to leave, as + the Wasui guides, on receiving their pay, promised we should; but they + deferred, on the plea that one of them must see their chief first, and get + him to frank us through, else, they said, we should be torn to pieces. I + said I thought the Kaquenzingiriri could do this; but they said, "No; + Suwarora must be told first of your arrival, to prepare him properly for + your coming; so stop here for three days with two of us, whilst the third + one goes to the palace and returns again; for you know the chiefs of these + countries do not feel safe until they have a look at the uganga." + </p> + <p> + One of them then went away, but no sooner had left than a man named + Makinga arrived to invite us on, as he said, at his adopted brother + K'yengo's request. Makinga then told us that Suwarora, on first hearing + that we were coming, became greatly afraid, and said he would not let us + set eyes on his country, as he was sure we were king-dethroners; but, + referring for opinion to Dr K'yengo, his fears were overcome by the doctor + assuring him that he had seen hosts of our sort at Zanzibar; and he knew, + moreover, that some years ago we had been to Ujiji and to Ukerewe without + having done any harm in those places; and, further, since Musa had sent + word that I had done my best to subdue the war at Unyanyembe, and had + promised to do my best here, he, Suwarora, had been anxiously watching our + movements, and longed for our arrival. This looked famous, and it was + agreed we should move the next morning. Just then a new light broke in on + my defeat at Sorombo, for with Makinga I recognised one of my former + porters, who I had supposed was a "child" of the Pig's. This man now said + before all my men, Baraka included, that he wished to accept the load of + mzizima I had offered the Pig if he would go forward with Baraka and tell + Suwarora I wanted some porters to help me to reach him. He was not a + "child" of the Pig's, but a "child" of K'yengo's; and as Baraka would not + allow him to accept the load of mzizima, he went on to K'yengo by himself, + and told all that had happened. It was now quite clear what motives + induced Suwarora to send out the three Wasui; but how I blessed Baraka for + this in my heart, though I said nothing about it to him, for fear of his + playing some more treacherous tricks. Grant then told me Baraka had been + frightened at Mininga, by a blackguard Mganga to whom he would not give a + present, into the belief that our journey would encounter some terrible + mishap; for, when the M'yonga catastrophe happened, he thought that a + fulfillment of the Mganga's prophecy. + </p> + <p> + I wished to move in the morning (23d), and had all hands ready, but was + told by Makinga he must be settled with first. His dues for the present + were four brass wires, and as many more when we reached the palace. I + could not stand this: we were literally, as Musa said we should be, being + "torn to pieces"; so I appealed to the mace-bearers, protested that + Makinga could have no claims on me, as he was not a man of Usui, but a + native of Utambara, and brought on a row. On the other hand, as he could + not refute this, Makinga swore the mace was all a pretence, and set + a-fighting with the Wasui and all the men in turn. + </p> + <p> + To put a stop to this, I ordered a halt, and called on the district + officer to assist us, on which he said he would escort us on to Suwarora's + if we would stop till next morning. This was agreed to; but in the night + we were robbed of three goats, which he said he could not allow to be + passed over, lest Suwarora might hear of it, and he would get into a + scrape. He pressed us strongly to stop another day whilst he sought for + them, but I told him I would not, as his magic powder was weak, else he + would have found the scabbard we lost long before this. + </p> + <p> + At last we got under way, and, after winding through a long forest, we + emerged on the first of the populous parts of Usui, a most + convulsed-looking country, of well-rounded hills composed of sandstone. In + all the parts not under cultivation they were covered with brushwood. Here + the little grass-hut villages were not fenced by a boma, but were hidden + in large fields of plantains. Cattle were numerous, kept by the Wahuma, + who could not sell their milk to us because we ate fowls and a bean called + maharague. + </p> + <p> + Happily no one tried to pillage us here, so on we went to Vikora's, + another officer, living at N'yakasenye, under a sandstone hill, faced with + a dyke of white quartz, over which leaped a small stream of water—a + seventy-feet drop—which, it is said, Suwarora sometimes paid homage + to when the land was oppressed by drought. Vikora's father it was whom + Sirboko of Mininga shot. Usually he was very severe with merchants in + consequence of that act; but he did not molest us, as the messenger who + went on to Suwarora returned here just as we arrived, to say we must come + on at once, as Suwarora was anxious to see us, and had ordered his Wakungu + not to molest us. Thieves that night entered our ringfence of thorns, and + stole a cloth from off one of my men while he was sleeping. + </p> + <p> + We set down Suwarora, after this very polite message, "a regular trump," + and walked up the hill of N'yakasenye with considerable mirth, singing his + praises; but we no sooner planted ourselves on the summit than we sang a + very different tune. We were ordered to stop by a huge body of men, and to + pay toll. + </p> + <p> + Suwarora, on second thoughts, had changed his mind, or else he had been + overruled by two of his officers—Kariwami, who lived here, and + Virembo, who lived two stages back, but were then with their chief. There + was no help for it, so I ordered the camp to be formed, and sent Nasib and + the mace-bearers at once off to the palace to express to his highness how + insulted I felt as his guest, being stopped in this manner, even when I + had his Kaquenzingiriri with me as his authority that I was invited there + as a guest. I was not a merchant who carried merchandise, but a prince + like himself, come on a friendly mission to see him and Rumanika. I was + waiting at night for the return of the messengers, and sitting out with my + sextant observing the stars, to fix my position, when some daring thieves, + in the dark bushes close by, accosted two of the women of the camp, + pretending a desire to know what I was doing. They were no sooner told by + the unsuspecting women, than they whipped off their cloths and ran away + with them, allowing their victims to pass me in a state of absolute + nudity. I could stand this thieving no longer. My goats and other things + had been taken away without causing me much distress of mind, but now, + after this shocking event, I ordered my men to shoot at any thieves that + came near them. + </p> + <p> + This night one was shot, without any mistake about it; for the next + morning we tracked him by his blood, and afterwards heard he had died of + his wound. The Wasui elders, contrary to my expectation, then came and + congratulated us on our success. They thought us most wonderful men, and + possessed of supernatural powers; for the thief in question was a + magician, who until now was thought to be invulnerable. Indeed, they said + Arabs with enormous caravans had often been plundered by these people; but + though they had so many more guns than ourselves, they never succeeded in + killing one. + </p> + <p> + Nasib then returned to inform us that the king had heard our complaint, + and was sorry for it, but said he could not interfere with the rights of + his officers. He did not wish himself to take anything from us, and hoped + we would come on to him as soon as we had satisfied his officers with the + trifle they wanted. Virembo then sent us some pombe by his officers, and + begged us to have patience, for he was then fleecing Masudi at the + encamping-ground near the palace. This place was alive with thieves. + During the day they lured my men into their huts by inviting them to + dinner; but when they got them they stripped them stark-naked and let them + go again; whilst at night they stone our camp. After this, one more was + shot dead and two others wounded. + </p> + <p> + I knew that Suwarora's message was all humbug, and that his officers + merely kept about one per cent. of what they took from travellers, paying + the balance into the royal coffers. Thinking I was now well in for a good + fleecing myself, I sent Bombay off to Masudi's camp, to tell Insangez, who + was travelling with him on a mission of his master's, old Musa's son, that + I would reward him handsomely if he would, on arrival at Karague, get + Rumanika to send us his mace here in the same way as Suwarora had done to + help us out of Bogue, as he knew Musa at one time said he would go with us + to Karague in person. When Bombay was gone, Virembo then deputed Kariwami + to take the hongo for both at once, mildly requiring 40 wires, 80 cloths, + and 400 necklaces of every kind of bead we possessed. This was, indeed, + too much of a joke. I complained of all the losses I had suffered, and + begged for mercy; but all he said, after waiting the whole day, was, "Do + not stick at trifles; for, after settling with us, you will have to give + as much more to Vikora, who lives down below." + </p> + <p> + Next morning, as I said I could not by any means pay such an exorbitant + tax as was demanded, Kariwami begged me to make an offer which I did by + sending him four wires. These, of course, were rejected with scorn; so, in + addition, I sent an old box. That, too, was thrown back on me, as nothing + short of 20 wires, 40 cloths, and 200 necklaces of all sorts of beads, + would satisfy him; and this I ought to be contented to pay, as he had been + so moderate because I was the king's guest, and had been so reduced by + robbery. I now sent six wires more, and said this was the last I could + give—they were worth so many goats to me—and now by giving + them away, I should have to live on grain like a poor man, though I was a + prince in my own country, just like Suwarora. Surely Suwarora could not + permit this if he knew it; and if they would not suffice, I should have to + stop here until called again by Suwarora. The ruffian, on hearing this, + allowed the wires to lie in his hut, and said he was going away, but + hoped, when he returned, I should have, as I had got no cloths, 20 wires, + and 1000 necklaces of extra length, strung and all ready for him. + </p> + <p> + Just then Bombay returned flushed with the excitement of a great success. + He had been in Masudi's camp, and had delivered my message to Insangez. + Asudi, he said, had been there a fortnight unable to settle his hongo, for + the great Mkama had not deigned to see him, though the Arab had been daily + to his palace requesting an interview. "Well," I said, "that is all very + interesting, but what next?—will the big king see us?" "O no; by the + very best good fortune in the world, on going into the palace I saw + Suwarora, and spoke to him at once; but he was so tremendously drunk, he + could not understand me." "What luck was there in that?" I asked. On which + Bombay said, "Oh, everybody in the place congratulated me on my success in + having obtained an interview with that great monarch the very first day, + when Arabs had seldom that privilege under one full month of squatting; + even Masudi had not yet seen him." To which Nasib also added, "Ah, yes—indeed + it is so—a monstrous success; there is great ceremony as well as + business at these courts; you will better see what I mean when you get to + Uganda. These Wahuma kings are not like those you ever saw in Unyamuezi or + anywhere else; they have officers and soldiers like Said Majid, the Sultan + at Zanzibar." "Well," said I to Bombay, "what was Suwarora like?" "Oh, he + is a very fine man—just as tall, and in the face very like Grant; in + fact, if Grant were black you would not know the difference." "And were + his officers drunk too?" "O yes, they were all drunk together; men were + bringing in pombe all day." "And did you get drunk?" "O yes," said Bombay, + grinning, and showing his whole row of sharp-pointed teeth, "they WOULD + make me drink; and then they showed me the place they assigned for your + camp when you come over there. It was not in the palace, but outside, + without a tree near it; anything but a nice-looking residence." I then + sent Bombay to work at the hongo business; but, after haggling till night + with Kariwami, he was told he must bring fourteen brass wires, two cloths, + and five mukhnai of kanyera, or white porcelain beads—which, + reduced, amounted to three hundred necklaces; else he said I might stop + there for a month. + </p> + <p> + At last I settled this confounded hongo, by paying seven additional wires + in lieu of the cloth; and, delighted at the termination of this tedious + affair, I ordered a march. Like magic, however, Vikora turned up, and said + we must wait until he was settled with. His rank was the same as the + others, and one bead less than I had given them he would not take. I + fought all the day out, but the next morning, as he deputed his officers + to take nine wires, these were given, and then we went on with the + journey. + </p> + <p> + Tripping along over the hill, we descended to a deep miry watercourse, + full of bulrushes, then over another hill, from the heights of which we + saw Suwarora's palace, lying down in the Uthungu valley, behind which + again rose another hill of sandstone, faced on the top with a dyke of + white quartz. The scene was very striking, for the palace enclosures, of + great extent, were well laid out to give effect. Three circles of milk + bush, one within the other, formed the boma, or ring-fence. The chief's + hut (I do not think him worthy of the name of king, since the kingdom is + divided in two) was three times as large as any of the others, and stood + by itself at the farther end; whilst the smaller huts, containing his + officers and domestics, were arranged in little groups within a circle, at + certain distances apart from one another, sufficient to allow of their + stalling their cattle at night. + </p> + <p> + On descending into the Uthungu valley, Grant, who was preceding the men, + found Makinga opposed to the progress of the caravan until his dues were + paid. He was a stranger like ourselves, and was consequently treated with + scorn, until he tried to maintain what he called his right, by pulling the + loads off my men's shoulders, whereupon Grant cowed him into submission, + and all went on again—not to the palace, as we had supposed, but, by + the direction of the mace-bearers, to the huts of Suwarora's + commander-in-chief, two miles from the palace; and here we found Masudi's + camp also. We had no sooner formed camp for ourselves and arranged all our + loads, than the eternal Vikora, whom I thought we had settled with before + we started, made a claim for some more wire, cloth, and beads, as he had + not received as much as Kariwani and Virembo. Of course I would not listen + to this, as I had paid what his men asked for, and that was enough for me. + Just then Masudi, with the other Arabs who were travelling with him, came + over to pay us a visit, and inquire what we thought of the Usui taxes. He + had just concluded his hongo to Suwarora by paying 80 wires, 120 yards of + cloth, and 130 lb. of beads, whilst he had also paid to every officer from + 20 to 40 wires, as well as cloths and beads. On hearing of my + transactions, he gave it as his opinion that I had got off surprisingly + well. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, (1st) Masudi and his party started for Karague. They had + been more than a year between this and Kaze, trying all the time to get + along. Provisions here were abundant—hawked about by the people, who + wore a very neat skin kilt strapped round the waist, but otherwise were + decorated like the Wanyamuezi. It was difficult to say who were of true + breed here, for the intercourse of the natives with the Wahuma and the + Wanyamuezi produced a great variety of facial features amongst the people. + Nowhere did I ever see so many men and women with hazel eyes as at this + place. + </p> + <p> + In the evening, an Uganda man, by name N'yamgundu, came to pay his + respects to us. He was dressed in a large skin wrapper, made up of a + number of very small antelope skins: it was as soft as kid, and just as + well sewn as our gloves. To our surprise the manners of the man were quite + in keeping with his becoming dress. I was enchanted with his appearance, + and so were my men, though no one could speak to him but Nasib, who told + us he knew him before. He was the brother of the dowager queen of Uganda, + and, along with a proper body of officers, he had been sent by Mtesa, the + present king of Uganda, to demand the daughter of Suwarora, as reports had + reached his king that she was surprisingly beautiful. They had been here + more than a year, during which time this beautiful virgin had died; and + now Suwarora, fearful of the great king's wrath, consequent on his + procrastinations, was endeavouring to make amends for it, by sending, + instead of his daughter, a suitable tribute in wires. I thought it not + wonderful that we should be fleeced. + </p> + <p> + Next day (2d) Sirhid paid us a visit, and said he was the first man in the + state. He certainly was a nice-looking young man, with a good deal of the + Wahuma blood in him. Flashily dressed in coloured cloths and a turban, he + sat down in one of our chairs as if he had been accustomed to such a seat + all his life, and spoke with great suavity. I explained our difficulties + as those of great men in misfortune; and, after listening to our tale, he + said he would tell Suwarora of the way we had been plundered, and impress + upon him to deal lightly with us. I said I had brought with me a few + articles of European manufacture for Suwarora, which I hoped would be + accepted if I presented them, for they were such things as only great men + like his chief ever possessed. One was a five-barrelled pistol, another a + large block-in box, and so fourth; but after looking at them, and seeing + the pistol fired, he said; "No; you must not shew these things at first, + or the Mkama might get frightened, thinking them magic. I might lose my + head for presuming to offer them, and then there is no knowing what might + happen afterwards." "Then can I not see him at once and pay my respects, + for I have come a great way to obtain that pleasure?" "No," said Sirhid, + "I will see him first; for he is not a man like myself, but requires to be + well assured before he sees anybody." "Then why did he invite me here!" + "He heard that Makaka, and afterwards Lumeresi, had stopped your progress; + and as he wished to see what you were like, he ordered me to send some men + to you, which, as you know, I did twice. He wishes to see you, but does + not like doing things in a hurry. Superstition, you know, preys on these + men's minds who have not seen the world like you and myself." Sirhid then + said he would ask Suwarora to grant us an interview as soon as possible; + then, whilst leaving, he begged for the iron chair he had sat upon; but + hearing we did not know how to sit on the ground, and therefore could not + spare it, he withdrew without any more words about it. + </p> + <p> + Virembo then said (3d) he must have some more wire and beads, as his proxy + Kariwami had been satisfied with too little. I drove him off in a huff, + but he soon came back again with half the hongo I had paid to Kariwami, + and said he must have some cloths or he would not have anything. As + fortune decreed it, just then Sirhid dropped in, and stopped him + importunity for the time by saying that if we had possessed cloths his men + must have known it, for they had been travelling with us. No sooner, + however, did Virembo turn tail than the Sirhid gave us a broad hint that + he usually received a trifle from the Arabs before he made an attempt at + arranging the hongo with Suwarora. Any trifle would do but he preferred + cloth. + </p> + <p> + This was rather perplexing. Sirhid knew very well that I had a small + reserve of pretty cloths, though all the common ones had been expended; + so, to keep in good terms with him who was to be our intercessor, I said I + would give him the last I had got if he would not tell Suwarora or any one + else what I had done. Of course he was quite ready to undertake the + condition, so I gave him two pretty cloths, and he in return gave me two + goats. But when this little business had been transacted, to my surprise + he said: "I have orders from Suwarora to be absent five days to doctor a + sick relation of his, for there is no man in the country so skilled in + medicines as myself; but whilst I am gone I will leave Karambule, my + brother, to officiate in my stead about taking your hongo; but the work + will not commence until to-morrow, for I must see Suwarora on the subject + myself first." + </p> + <p> + Irungu, a very fine-looking man of Uganda, now called on me and begged for + beads. He said his king had heard of our approach, and was most anxious to + see us. Hearing this I begged him to wait here until my hongo was paid, + that we might travel on to Uganda together. He said, No, he could not + wait, for he had been detained here a whole year already; but, if I liked, + he would leave some of his children behind with me, as their presence + would intimidate Suwarora, and incite him to let us off quickly. + </p> + <p> + I then begged him to convey a Colt's six-chamber revolving rifle to his + king, Mtesa, as an earnest that I was a prince most desirous of seeing + him. No one, I said, but myself could tell what dangers and difficulties I + had encountered to come thus far for the purpose, and all was owing to his + great fame, as the king of kings, having reached me even as far off as + Zanzibar. The ambassador would not take the rifle, lest his master, who + had never seen such a wonderful weapon before, should think he had brought + him a malign charm, and he would be in danger of losing his head. I then + tried to prevail on him to take a knife and some other pretty things, but + he feared them all; so, as a last chance—for I wished to send some + token, by way of card or letter, for announcing my approach and securing + the road—I gave him a red six-penny pocket-handkerchief, which he + accepted; and he then told me he was surprised I had come all this way + round to Uganda, when the road by the Masai country was so much shorter. + He told me how, shortly after the late king of Uganda, Sunna, died, and + before Mtesa had been selected by the officers of the country to be their + king, an Arab caravan came across the Masai as far as Usoga, and begged + for permission to enter Uganda; but as the country was disturbed by the + elections, the officers of the state advised the Arabs to wait, or come + again when the king was elected. I told him I had heard of this before, + but also heard that those Arabs had met with great disasters, owing to the + turbulence of the Masai. To which he replied: "That is true; there were + great difficulties in those times, but now the Masai country was in better + order; and as Mtesa was most anxious to open that line, he would give me + as many men as I liked if I wished to go home that way." + </p> + <p> + This was pleasant information, but not quite new, for the Arabs had told + me Mtesa was so anxious to open that route, he had frequently offered to + aid them in it himself. Still it was most gratifying to myself as I had + written to the Geographical Society, on leaving Bogue, that if I found + Petherick in Uganda, or on the northern end of the N'yanza, so that the + Nile question was settled, I would endeavour to reach Zanzibar via the + Masai country. In former days, I knew, the kings of Uganda were in the + habit of sending men to Karague when they heard that Arabs wished to visit + them—even as many as two hundred at a time—to carry their kit; + so I now begged Irungu to tell Mtesa that I should want at least sixty + men; and then, on his promising that he would be my commissioner, I gave + him the beads he had begged for himself. + </p> + <p> + 4th to 6th.—Karambule now told us to string our beads on the fibre + of the Mwale tree, which was sold here by the Wasui, as he intended to + live in the palace for a couple of days, arranging with Suwarora what tax + we should have to pay, after which he would come and take it from us; but + we must mind and be ready, for whatever Suwarora said, it must be done + instantly. There was no such thing as haggling with him; you must pay and + be off at once, failing which you might be detained a whole month before + there would be an opportunity to speak on the subject again. Beads were + then served out to all my men to be strung, a certain quantity to every + kambi or mess, and our work was progressing; but next day we heard that + Karambule was sick or feigning to be so, and therefore had never gone to + the palace at all. On the 6th, provoked at last by the shameful manner in + which we were treated, I send word to him to say, if he did not go at once + I would go myself, and force my way in with my guns, for I could not + submit to being treated like a slave, stuck out here in the jungle with + nothing to do but shoot for specimens, or make collections of rocks, etc. + This brought on another row; for he said both Virembo and Vikora had + returned their hongos, and until their tongues were quieted he could not + speak to Suwarora. + </p> + <p> + To expedite matters (7th), as our daily consumption in camp was a tax of + itself, I gave these tormenting creatures one wire, one pretty cloth, and + five hundred necklaces of white beads, which were no sooner accepted than + Karambule, in the same way as Sirhid had done, said it would be greatly to + my advantage if I gave him something worth having before he saw the Mkama. + Only too glad to being work I gave him a red blanket, called joho, and + five strings of mzizima beads, which were equal to fifty of the common + white. + </p> + <p> + 8th and 9th.—All this time nothing but confusion reigned in camp, + khambi fighting against khambi. Both men and women got drunk, whilst from + outside we were tormented by the Wasui, both men and women pertinaciously + pressing into our hut, watching us eat, and begging in the most shameless + manner. They did not know the word bakhshish, or present; but, as bad as + the Egyptians, they held our their hands, patted their bellies, and said + Kaniwani (my friend) until we were sick of the sound of that word. Still + it was impossible to dislike these simple creatures altogether, they were + such perfect children. If we threw water at them to drive them away, they + came back again, thinking it fun. + </p> + <p> + Ten days now had elapsed since we came here, still nothing was done + (10th), as Karambule said, because Suwarora had been so fully occupied + collecting an army to punish an officer who had refused to pay his taxes, + had ignored his authority, and had set himself up as king of the district + he was appointed to superintend. After this, at midnight, Karambule, in an + excited manner, said he had seen Suwarora, and it then was appointed that, + not he, but Virembo should take the royal hongo, as well as the Wahinda, + or princes' shares, the next morning—after which we might go as fast + as we liked, for Suwarora was so full occupied with his army he could not + see us this time. Before, however, the hongo could be paid, I must give + the Sirhid and himself twenty brass wires, three joho, three barsati, + twenty strings of mzizima, and one thousand strings of white beads. They + were given. + </p> + <p> + A fearful row now broke out between Bombay and Baraka (11th). Many of my + men had by this time been married, notwithstanding my prohibition. Baraka, + for instance, had with him the daughter of Ungurue, chief of Phunze; + Wadimoyo, a woman called Manamaka; Sangizo, his wife and sister; but + Bombay had not got one, and mourned for a girl he had set his eyes on, + unfortunately for himself letting Baraka into his confidence. This set + Baraka on the qui vive to catch Bombay tripping; for Baraka knew he could + not get her without paying a good price for her, and therefore watched his + opportunity to lay a complaint against him of purloining my property, by + which scheme he would, he thought, get Bombay's place as storekeeper + himself. In a sly manner Bombay employed some of my other men to take five + wires, a red blanket, and 500 strings of beads, to his would-be + father-in-law, which, by a previously-concocted arrangement, was to be her + dowry price. These men did as they were bid; but the father-in-law + returned things, saying he must have one more wire. That being also + supplied, the scoundrel wanted more, and made so much fuss about it, that + Baraka became conversant with all that was going on, and told me of it. + </p> + <p> + This set the whole camp in a flame, for Bombay and Baraka were both very + drunk, as well as most of the other men, so that it was with great + difficulty I could get hold of the rights of their stories. Bombay + acknowledged he had tried to get the girl, for they had been + sentimentalising together for several days, and both alike wished to be + married. Baraka, he said, was allowed to keep a wife, and his position, + demanded that he should have one also; but the wires were his own + property, and not mine, for he was given them by the chiefs as a + perquisite when I paid their hongo through him. He thought it most unjust + and unfair of Baraka to call him to account in that way, but he was not + surprised at it, as Baraka, from the beginning of the journey to the + present moment, had always been backbiting him, to try and usurp his + position. Baraka, at this, somewhat taken aback, said there were no such + things as perquisites on a journey like this; for whatever could be saved + from the chiefs was for the common good of all, and all alike ought to + share in it—repeating words I had often expressed. Then Bombay + retorted trembling and foaming in his liquor: "I know I shall get the + worst of it, for whilst Baraka's tongue is a yard long, mine is only an + inch; but I would not have spent any wires of master's to purchase slaves + with (alluding to what Baraka had done at Mihambo); nor would I, for any + purpose of making myself richer; but when it comes to a wife, that's a + different thing." + </p> + <p> + In my heart I liked Bombay all the more for this confession, but thought + it necessary to extol Baraka for his quickness in finding him out, which + drove Bombay nearly wild. He wished me to degrade him, if I thought him + dishonest; threw himself on the ground, and kissed my feet. I might thrash + him, turn him into a porter, or do anything else that I liked with him, as + long as I did not bring a charge of dishonesty against him. He could not + explain himself with Baraka's long tongue opposed to him, but there were + many deficiencies in my wires before he took overcharge at Bogue, which he + must leave for settlement till the journey was over, and then, the whole + question having been sifted at Zanzibar, we would see who was the most + honest. I then counted all the wires over, at Bombay's request, and found + them complete in numbers, without those he had set aside from the dowry + money. Still there was a doubt, for the wires might have been cut by him + without detection, as from the commencement they were of different + lengths. However, I tried to make them friends, claimed all the wires + myself, and cautioned every man in the camp again, that they were all + losers when anything was misappropriated; for I brought this property to + pay our way with and whatever balance was over at the end of the journey I + would divide amongst the whole of them. + </p> + <p> + 12th and 13th.—When more sober, Bombay again came to crave a + thousand pardons for what he had done, threw himself down at my feet, then + at Grant's, kissed our toes, swore I was his Ma Pap (father and mother); + he had no father or mother to teach him better; he owed all his prosperity + to me; men must err sometimes; oh, if I would only forgive him,—and + so forth. Then being assured that I knew he never would have done as he + had if a woman's attractions had not led him astray, he went to his work + again like a man, and consoled himself by taking Sangizo's sister to wife + on credit instead of the old love, promising to pay the needful out of his + pay, and to return her to her brother when the journey was over. + </p> + <p> + In the evening Virembo and Karambule came to receive the hongo for their + chief, demanding 60 wires, 160 yards merikani, 300 strings of mzizima, and + 5000 strings of white beads; but they allowed themselves to be beaten down + to 50 wires, 20 pretty cloths, 100 strings mzizima, and 4000 kutuamnazi, + or cocoa-nut-leaf coloured beads, my white being all done. It was too + late, however, to count all the things out, so they came the next day and + took them. They then said we might go as soon as we had settled with the + Wahinda or Wanawami (the king's children), for Suwarora could not see us + this time, as he was so engaged with his army; but he hoped to see us and + pay us more respect when we returned from Uganda, little thinking that I + had sworn in my mind never to see him, or return that way again. I said to + those men, I thought he was ashamed to see us, as he had robbed us so + after inviting us into the country, else he was too superstitious, for he + ought at least to have given us a place in his palace. They both rebutted + the insinuation; and, to change the subject, commenced levying the + remaining dues to the princes, which ended by my giving thirty-four wires + and six pretty cloths in a lump. + </p> + <p> + Early in the morning we were on foot again, only too thankful to have got + off so cheaply. Then men were appointed as guides and protectors, to look + after us as far as the border. What an honour! We had come into the + country drawn there by a combination of pride and avarice and now we were + leaving it in hot haste under the guidance of an escort of officers, who + were in reality appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards and objects of + terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought of the prospect + of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone through. + </p> + <p> + Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained + in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered in + small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared away. + On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed a + stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information, + though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country we + had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing in + the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by a + branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately + pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by + Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road; + but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At + first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo had + done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz and two + bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security against + any further molestation. + </p> + <p> + Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone + formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a stiff + pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati, which + was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep down its + well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect for a + trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the valley was + clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all descriptions, + amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm, and rich gardens of + plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size and wild indigo were the + more common weeds. The land beyond that again rolled back in high + undulations, over which, in the far distance, we could see a line of + cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down with white streaks, + looking for all the world like recent volcanoes; and in the far + background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy hills of Karague + and Kishakka. + </p> + <p> + On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path; + seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief + cried out with delight, "Ah, look at that good omen!—now our journey + will be sure to be prosperous." After fording the stream, we sat down to + rest, and were visited by all the inhabitants, who were more naked than + any people we had yet seen. All the maidens, even at the age of puberty, + did not hesitate to stand boldly in front of us—for evil thoughts + were not in their minds. From this we rose over a stony hill to the + settlement of Vihembe, which, being the last on the Usui frontier, induced + me to give our guides three wires each, and four yards of bindera, which + Nasib said was their proper fee. Here Bombay's would-be, but disappointed, + father-in-law sent after us to say that he required a hongo; Suwarora had + never given his sanction to our quitting his country; his hongo even was + not settled. He wished, moreover, particularly to see us; and if we did + not return in a friendly manner, an army would arrest our march + immediately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII. Karague + </h2> + <p> + Relief from Protectors and Pillagers—The Scenery and Geology—Meeting + with the Friendly King Rumanika—His Hospitalities and Attention—His + Services to the Expedition—Philosophical and Theological Inquiries—The + Royal Family of Karague—The M-Fumbiro Mountain—Navigation of + "The Little Windermere"—The New-Moon Levee—Rhinoceros and + Hippopotamus Hunting—Measurement of a Fattened Queen—Political + Polygamy—Christmas—Rumours of Petherick's Expedition—Arrangements + to meet it—March to Uganda. + </p> + <p> + This was a day of relief and happiness. A load was removed from us in + seeing the Wasui "protectors" depart, with the truly cheering information + that we now had nothing but wild animals to contend with before reaching + Karague. This land is "neutral," by which is meant that it is untenanted + by human beings; and we might now hope to bid adieu for a time to the + scourging system of taxation to which we had been subjected. + </p> + <p> + Gradually descending from the spur which separates the Lohugati valley + from the bed of the Lueru lo Urigi, or Lake of Urigi, the track led us + first through a meadow of much pleasing beauty, and then through a passage + between the "saddle-back" domes we had seen from the heights above + Lohugati, where a new geological formation especially attracted my notice. + From the green slopes of the hills, set up at a slant, as if the central + line of pressure on the dome top had weighed on the inside plates, + protruded soft slabs of argillaceous sandstone, whose laminae presented a + beef-sandwich appearance, puce or purple alternating with creamy-white. + Quartz and other igneous rocks were also scattered about, lying like + superficial accumulations in the dips at the foot of the hills, and red + sandstone conglomerates clearly indicated the presence of iron. The soil + itself looked rich and red, not unlike our own fine country of Devon. + </p> + <p> + On arriving in camp we pitched under some trees, and at once were greeted + by an officer sent by Rumanika to help us out of Usui. This was Kachuchu, + an old friend of Nasib's, who no sooner saw him than, beaming with + delight, he said to us, "Now, was I not right when I told you the birds + flying about on Lohugati hill were a good omen? Look here what this man + says: Rumanika has ordered him to bring you on to his palace at once, and + wherever you stop a day, the village officers are instructed to supply you + with food at the king's expenses, for there are no taxes gathered from + strangers in the kingdom of Karague. Presents may be exchanged, but the + name of tax is ignored." Grant here shot a rhinoceros, which came well + into play to mix with the day's flour we had carried on from Vihembe. + </p> + <p> + Deluded yesterday by the sight of the broad waters of the Lueru lo Urigi, + espied in the distance from the top of a hill, into the belief that we + were in view of the N'yanza itself, we walked triumphantly along, thinking + how well the Arabs at Kaze had described this to be a creek of the great + lake; but on arrival in camp we heard from the village officer that we had + been misinformed, and that it was a detached lake, but connected with the + Victoria N'yanza by a passage in the hills and the Kitangule river. + Formerly, he said, the Urigi valley was covered with water, extending up + to Uhha, when all the low lands we had crossed from Usui had to be + ferried, and the saddle-back hills were a mere chain of islands in the + water. But the country had dried up, and the lake of Urigi became a small + swamp. He further informed us, that even in the late king Dagara's time it + was a large sheet of water; but the instant he ceased to exist, the lake + shrank to what we now saw. + </p> + <p> + Our day's march had been novel and very amusing. The hilly country + surrounding us, together with the valley, brought back to recollection + many happy days I had once spent with the Tartars in the Thibetian valley + of the Indus—only this was more picturesque; for though both + countries are wild, and very thinly inhabited, this was greened over with + grass, and dotted here and there on the higher slopes with thick bush of + acacias, the haunts of rhinoceros, both white and black; whilst in the + flat of the valley, herds of hartebeests and fine cattle roamed about like + the kiyang and tame yak of Thibet. Then, to enhance all these pleasure, so + different from our former experiences, we were treated like guests by the + chief of the place, who, obeying the orders of his king, Rumanika, brought + me presents, as soon as we arrived, of sheep, fowls, and sweet potatoes, + and was very thankful for a few yards of red blanketing as a return, + without begging for more. + </p> + <p> + The farther we went in this country the better we liked it, as the people + were all kept in good order; and the village chiefs were so civil, that we + could do as we liked. After following down the left side of the valley and + entering the village, the customary presents and returns were made. + Wishing then to obtain a better view of the country, I strolled over the + nearest hills, and found the less exposed slopes well covered with trees. + Small antelopes occasionally sprang up from the grass. I shot a florikan + for the pot; and as I had never before seen white rhinoceros, killed one + now; though, as no one would eat him, I felt sorry rather than otherwise + for what I had done. When I returned in the evening, small boys brought me + sparrows for sale; and then I remembered the stories I had heard from Musa + Mzuri—that in the whole of Karague the small birds were so numerous, + the people, to save themselves from starvation were obliged to grow a + bitter corn which the birds disliked; and so I found it. At night, whilst + observing for latitude, I was struck by surprise to see a long noisy + procession pass by where I sat, led by some men who carried on their + shoulders a woman covered up in a blackened skin. On inquiry, however, I + heard she was being taken to the hut of her espoused, where, "bundling + fashion," she would be put in bed; but it was only with virgins they took + so much trouble. + </p> + <p> + A strange but characteristic story now reached my ears. Masudi, the + merchant who took up Insangez, had been trying his best to deter Rumanika + from allowing us to enter his country, by saying we were addicted to + sorcery; and had it not been for Insangez's remonstrances, who said we + were sent up by Musa, our fate would have been doubtful. Rumanika, it + appeared, as I always had heard, considered old Musa his saviour, for + having eight years before quelled a rebellion, when his younger brother, + Rogero, aspired to the throne; whilst Musa's honour and honesty were quite + unimpeachable. But more of this hereafter. + </p> + <p> + Khonze, the next place, lying in the bending concave of this swamp lake, + and facing Hangiro, was commanded by a fine elderly man called Muzegi, who + was chief officer during Dagara's time. He told me with the greatest + possible gravity, that he remembered well the time when a boat could have + gone from this to Vigura; as also when fish and crocodiles came up from + the Kitangule; but the old king no sooner died than the waters dried up; + which showed as plainly as words could tell, that the king had designed + it, to make men remember him with sorrow in all future ages. Our presents + after this having been exchanged, the good old man, at my desire, + explained the position of all the surrounding countries, in his own + peculiar manner, by laying a long stick on the ground pointing due north + and south, to which he attached shorter ones pointing to the centre of + each distant country. He thus assisted me in the protractions of the map, + to the countries which lie east and west of the route. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after starting this morning, we were summoned by the last officer + on the Urigi to take breakfast with him, as he could not allow us to pass + by without paying his respects to the king's guests. He was a man of most + affable manners, and loth we should part company without one night's + entertainment at least; but as it was a matter of necessity, he gave us + provisions to eat on the way, adding, at the same time, he was sorry he + could not give more, as a famine was then oppressing the land. We parted + with reiterated compliments on both sides; and shortly after, diving into + the old bed of the Urigi, were constantly amused with the variety of game + which met our view. On several occasions the rhinoceros were so numerous + and impudent as to contest the right of the road with us, and the greatest + sport was occasioned by our bold Wanguana going at them in parties of + threes and fours, when, taking good care of themselves at considerable + distances, they fired their carbines all together, and whilst the + rhinoceros ran one way, they ran the other. Whilst we were pitching our + tents after sunset by some pools on the plain, Dr K'yengo arrived with the + hongo of brass and copper wires sent by Suwarora for the great king Mtesa, + in lieu of his daughter who died; so next morning we all marched together + on to Uthenga. + </p> + <p> + Rising out of the bed of the Urigi, we passed over a low spur of + beef-sandwich clay sandstones, and descended into the close, rich valley + of Uthenga, bound in by steep hills hanging over us more than a thousand + feet high, as prettily clothed as the mountains of Scotland; whilst in the + valley there were not only magnificent trees of extraordinary height, but + also a surprising amount of the richest cultivation, amongst which the + banana may be said to prevail. Notwithstanding this apparent richness in + the land, the Wanyambo, living in their small squalid huts, seem poor. The + tobacco they smoke is imported from the coffee-growing country of Uhaiya. + After arrival in the village, who should we see but the Uganda officer, + Irungu! The scoundrel, instead of going on to Uganda, as he had promised + to do, conveying my present to Mtesa, had stopped here plundering the + Wanyambo, and getting drunk on their pombe, called, in their language, + marwa—a delicious kind of wine made from the banana. He, or course, + begged for more beads; but, not able to trick me again, set his drummers + and fifers at work, in hopes that he would get over our feelings in that + way. + </p> + <p> + Henceforth, as we marched, Irungu's drummers and fifers kept us alive on + the way. This we heard was a privilege that Uganda Wakungu enjoyed both at + home and abroad, although in all other countries the sound of the drum is + considered a notice of war, unless where it happens to accompany a dance + or festival. Leaving the valley of Uthenga, we rose over the spur of + N'yamwara, where we found we had attained the delightful altitude of 5000 + odd feet. Oh, how we enjoyed it! every one feeling so happy at the + prospect of meeting so soon the good king Rumanika. Tripping down the + greensward, we now worked our way to the Rozoka valley, and pitched our + tents in the village. + </p> + <p> + Kachuchu here told us he had orders to precede us, and prepare Rumanika + for our coming, as his king wished to know what place we would prefer to + live at—the Arab depot at kufro, on the direct line to Uganda, in + his palace with himself, or outside his enclosures. Such politeness rather + took us aback; so, giving our friend a coil of copper wire to keep him in + good spirits, I said all our pleasure rested in seeing the king; whatever + honours he liked to confer on us we should take with good grace, but one + thing he must understand, we came not to trade, but to see him and great + kings and therefore the Arabs had no relations with us. This little point + settled, off started Kachuchu in his usual merry manner, whilst I took a + look at the hills, to see their geological formation, and found them much + as before, based on streaky clay sandstones, with the slight addition of + pure blue shales, and above sections of quartzose sandstone lying in + flags, as well as other metamorphic and igneous rocks scattered about. + </p> + <p> + Moving on the next morning over hill and dale, we came to the junction of + two roads, where Irungu, with his drummers, fifers and amazon followers, + took one way to Kufro, followed by the men carrying Suwarora's hongo, and + we led off on the other, directed to the palace. The hill-tops in many + places were breasted with dykes of pure white quartz, just as we had seen + in Usui, only that here their direction tended more to the north. It was + most curious to contemplate, seeing that the chief substance of the hills + was a pure blue, or otherwise streaky clay sandstone, which must have been + formed when the land was low, but has now been elevated, making these + hills the axis of the centre of the continent, and therefore probably the + oldest of all. + </p> + <p> + When within a few miles of the palace we were ordered to stop and wait for + Kachuchu's return; but no sooner put up in a plaintain grove, where pombe + was brewing, and our men were all taking a suck at it, than the worthy + arrived to call us on the same instant, as the king was most anxious to + see us. The love of good beer of course made our men all too tired to + march again; so I sent off Bombay with Nasib to make our excuses, and in + the evening found them returning with a huge pot of pombe and some royal + tobacco, which Rumanika sent with a notice that he intended it exclusively + for our own use, for though there was abundance for my men, there was + nothing so good as what came from the palace; the royal tobacco was as + sweet and strong as honey-dew, and the beer so strong it required a strong + man to drink it. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast next morning, we crossed the hill-spur called Waeranhanje, + the grassy tops of which were 5500 feet above the sea. Descending a + little, we came suddenly in view of what appeared to us a rich clump of + trees, in S. lat. 1° 42' 42", and E. long. 31° 1' 49"; and, 500 feet below + it, we saw a beautiful sheet of water lying snugly within the folds of the + hills. We were not altogether unprepared for it, as Musa of old had + described it, and Bombay, on his return yesterday, told us he had seen a + great pond. The clump, indeed, was the palace enclosure. As to the lake, + for want of a native name, I christened it the Little Winderemere, because + Grant thought it so like our own English lake of that name. It was one of + many others which, like that of Urigi, drains the moisture of the + overhanging hills, and gets drained into the Victoria N'yanza through the + Kitangule river. + </p> + <p> + To do royal honours to the king of this charming land, I ordered my men to + put down their loads and fire a volley. This was no sooner done than, as + we went to the palace gate, we received an invitation to come in at once, + for the king wished to see us before attending to anything else. Now, + leaving our traps outside, both Grant and myself, attended by Bombay and a + few of the seniors of my Wanguana, entered the vestibule, and, walking + through extensive enclosures studded with huts of kingly dimensions, were + escorted to a pent-roofed baraza, which the Arabs had built as a sort of + government office where the king might conduct his state affairs. + </p> + <p> + Here, as we entered, we saw sitting cross-legged on the ground Rumanika + the king, and his brother Nnanaji, both of them men of noble appearance + and size. The king was plainly dressed in an Arab's black choga, and wore, + for ornament, dress-stockings of rich-coloured beads, and neatly-worked + wristlets of copper. Nnanaji, being a doctor of very high pretensions, in + addition to a check cloth wrapped round him, was covered with charms. At + their sides lay huge pipes of black clay. In their rear, squatting quiet + as mice, were all the king's sons, some six or seven lads, who wore + leather middle-coverings, and little dream-charms tied under their chins. + The first greetings of the king, delivered in good Kisuahili, were warm + and affecting, and in an instant we both felt and saw we were in the + company of men who were as unlike as they could be to the common order of + the natives of the surrounding districts. They had fine oval faces, large + eyes, and high noses, denoting the best blood of Abyssinia. Having shaken + hands in true English style, which is the peculiar custom of the men of + this country, the ever-smiling Rumanika begged us to be seated on the + ground opposite to him, and at once wished to know what we thought of + Karague, for it had struck him his mountains were the finest in the world; + and the lake, too, did we not admire it? Then laughing, he inquired—for + he knew all the story—what we thought of Suwarora, and the reception + we had met with in Usui. When this was explained to him, I showed him that + it was for the interest of his own kingdom to keep a check on Suwarora, + whose exorbitant taxations prevented the Arabs from coming to see him and + bringing things from all parts of the world. He made inquiries for the + purpose of knowing how we found our way all over the world; for on the + former expedition a letter had come to him for Musa, who no sooner read it + than he said I had called him and he must leave, as I was bound for Ujiji. + </p> + <p> + This of course led to a long story, describing the world, the proportions + of land and water, and the power of ships, which conveyed even elephants + and rhinoceros—in fact, all the animals in the world—to fill + our menageries at home,—etc., etc.; as well as the strange + announcement that we lived to the northward, and had only come this way + because his friend Musa had assured me without doubt that he would give us + the road on through Uganda. Time flew like magic, the king's mind was so + quick and enquiring; but as the day was wasting away, he generously gave + us our option to choose a place for our residence in or out of his palace, + and allowed us time to select one. We found the view overlooking the lake + to be so charming, that we preferred camping outside, and set our men at + once to work cutting sticks and long grass to erect themselves sheds. + </p> + <p> + One of the young princes—for the king ordered them all to be + constantly in attendance on us—happening to see me sit on an iron + chair, rushed back to his father and told him about it. This set all the + royals in the palace in a state of high wonder, and ended by my getting a + summons to show off the white man sitting on his throne; for of course I + could only be, as all of them called me, a king of great dignity, to + indulge in such state. Rather reluctantly I did as I was bid, and allowed + myself once more to be dragged into court. Rumanika, as gentle as ever, + then burst into a fresh fit of merriment, and after making sundry + enlightened remarks of enquire, which of course were responded to with the + greatest satisfaction, finished off by saying, with a very expressive + shake of the head, "Oh, these Wazungu, these Wazungu! they know and do + everything." + </p> + <p> + I then put in a word for myself. Since we had entered Karague we never + could get one drop of milk either for love or for money, and I wished to + know what motive the Wahuma had for withholding it. We had heard they held + superstitious dreads; that any one who ate the flesh of pigs, fish, or + fowls, or the bean called Maharague, if he tasted the products of their + cows, would destroy their cattle—and I hoped he did not labour under + any such absurd delusions. To which he replied, It was only the poor who + thought so; and as he now saw we were in want, he would set apart one of + his cows expressly for our use. On bidding adieu, the usual formalities of + handshaking were gone through; and on entering camp, I found the good + thoughtful king had sent us some more of his excellent beer. + </p> + <p> + The Wanguana were now all in the highest of good-honour; for time after + time goats and fowls were brought into camp by the officers of the king, + who had received orders from all parts of the country to bring in supplies + for his guests; and this kind of treatment went on for a month, though it + did not diminish my daily expenditures of beads, as grain and plantains + were not enough thought of. The cold winds, however, made the coast-men + all shiver, and suspect, in their ignorance, we must be drawing close to + England, the only cold place they had heard of. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—Hearing it would be considered indecent haste to present my + tributary offering at once, I paid my morning's visit, only taking my + revolving-pistol, as I knew Rumanika had expressed a strong wish to see + it. The impression it made was surprising—he had never seen such a + thing in his life; so, in return for his great generosity, as well as to + show I placed no value on property, not being a merchant, I begged him to + accept it. We then adjourned to his private hut, which rather surprised me + by the neatness with which it was kept. The roof was supported by numerous + clean poles, to which he had fastened a large assortment of spears—brass-headed + with iron handles, and iron-headed with wooden ones—of excellent + workmanship. A large standing-screen, of fine straw-plait work, in elegant + devices, partitioned off one part of the room; and on the opposite side, + as mere ornaments, were placed a number of brass grapnels and small models + of cows, made in iron for his amusement by the Arabs at Kufro. A little + later in the day, as soon as we had done breakfast, both Rumanika and + Nnanaji came over to pay us a visit; for they thought, as we could find + our way all over the world, so we should not find much difficulty in + prescribing some magic charms to kill his brother, Rogero, who lived on a + hill overlooking the Kitangule. Seating them both on our chairs, which + amused them intensely, I asked Rumanika, although I had heard before the + whole facts of the case, what motives now induced him to wish the + committal of such a terrible act, and brought out the whole story afresh. + </p> + <p> + Before their old father Dagara died, he had unwittingly said to the mother + of Rogero, although he was the youngest born, what a fine king he would + make; and the mother, in consequence, tutored her son to expect the + command of the country, although the law of the land in the royal family + is the primogeniture system, extending, however, only to those sons who + are born after the accession of the king to the throne. + </p> + <p> + As soon, therefore, as Dagara died, leaving the three sons alluded to, all + by different mothers, a contest took place with the brothers, which, as + Nnanaji held by Rumanika, ended in the two elder driving Rogero away. It + happened, however, that half the men of the country, either from fear or + love, attached themselves to Rogero. Feeling his power, he raised an army + and attempted to fight for the crown, which it is generally admitted would + have succeeded, had not Musa, with unparalleled magnanimity, employed all + the ivory merchandise at his command to engage the services of all the + Arabs' slaves residing at Kufro, to bring muskets against him. Rogero was + thus frightened away; but he went away swearing that he would carry out + his intentions at some future date, when the Arabs had withdrawn from the + country. + </p> + <p> + Magic charms, of course, we had none; but the king would not believe it, + and, to wheedle some out of us, said they would not kill their brother + even if they caught him—for fratricide was considered an unnatural + crime in their country—but they would merely gouge out his eyes and + set him at large again; for without the power of sight he could do them no + harm. + </p> + <p> + I then recommended, as the best advice I could give him for the time + being, to take some strong measures against Suwarora and the system of + taxation carried on in Usui. These would have the effect of bringing men + with superior knowledge into the country—for it was only through the + power of knowledge that good government could be obtained. Suwarora at + present stopped eight-tenths of the ivory-merchants who might be inclined + to trade here from coming into the country, by the foolish system of + excessive taxation he had established. Next I told him, if he would give + me one or two of his children, I would have them instructed in England; + for I admired his race, and believed them to have sprung from our old + friends the Abyssinians, whose king, Sahela Selassie, had received rich + presents from our Queen. They were Christians like ourselves, and had the + Wahuma not lost their knowledge of God they would be so also. A long + theological and historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king, + that he said he would be delighted if I would take two of his sons to + England, that they might bring him a knowledge of everything. Then turning + again to the old point, his utter amazement that we should spend so much + property in travelling, he wished to know what we did it for; when men had + such means they would surely sit down and enjoy it. "Oh no," was the + reply; "we have had our fill of the luxuries of life; eating, drinking, or + sleeping have no charms for us now; we are above trade, therefore require + no profits, and seek for enjoyment the run of the world. To observe and + admire the beauties of creation are worth much more than beads to us. But + what led us this way we have told you before; it was to see your majesty + in particular, and the great kings of Africa—and at the same time to + open another road to the north, whereby the best manufactures or Europe + would find their way to Karague, and you would get so many more guests." + In the highest good-humour the king said, "As you have come to see me and + see sights, I will order some boats and show you over the lake, with + musicians to play before you, or anything else that you like." Then, after + looking over our pictures with intensest delight, and admiring our beds, + boxes, and outfit in general, he left for the day. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon, as I had heard from Musa that the wives of the king and + princes were fattened to such an extent that they could not stand upright, + I paid my respects to Wazezeru, the king's eldest brother—who, + having been born before his father ascended the throne, did not come in + the line of succession—with the hope of being able to see for myself + the truth of the story. There was no mistake about it. On entering the hut + I found the old man and his chief wife sitting side by side on a bench of + earth strewed over with grass, and partitioned like stalls for sleeping + apartments, whilst in front of them were placed numerous wooden pots of + milk, and hanging from the poles that supported the beehive-shaped hut, a + large collection of bows six feet in length, whilst below them were tied + an even larger collection of spears, intermixed with a goodly assortment + of heavy-headed assages. I was struck with no small surprise at the way he + received me, as well as with the extraordinary dimensions, yet pleasing + beauty, of the immoderately fat fair one his wife. She could not rise; and + so large were her arms that, between the joints, the flesh hung down like + large, loose-stuffed puddings. Then in came their children, all models of + the Abyssinian type of beauty, and as polite in their manners as + thorough-bred gentlemen. They had heard of my picture-books from the king, + and all wished to see them; which they no sooner did, to their infinite + delight, especially when they recognised any of the animals, then the + subject was turned by my inquiring what they did with so many milk-pots. + This was easily explained by Wazezeru himself, who, pointing to his wife, + said, "This is all the product of those pots: from early youth upwards we + keep those pots to their mouths, as it is the fashion at court to have + very fat wives." + </p> + <p> + 27th.—Ever anxious to push on with the journey, as I felt every + day's delay only tended to diminish my means—that is, my beads and + copper wire—I instructed Bombay to take the under-mentioned articles + to Rumanika as a small sample of the products of my country; <a + href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a> + to say I felt quite ashamed of their being so few and so poor, but I hoped + he would forgive my shortcomings, as he knew I had been so often robbed on + the way to him; and I trusted, in recollection of Musa, he would give me + leave to go on to Uganda, for every day's delay was consuming my supplies. + Nnanaji, however, it was said, should get something; so, in addition to + the king's present, I apportioned one out for him, and Bombay took both up + to the palace. <a href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" + id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> Everybody, I was pleased to + hear, was surprised with both the quantity and quality of what I had been + able to find for them; for, after the plundering in Ugogo, the immense + consumption caused by such long delays on the road, the fearful prices I + had had to pay for my porters' wages, the enormous taxes I had been forced + to give both in Msalala and Uzinza, besides the constant thievings in + camp, all of which was made public by the constantly-recurring tales of my + men, nobody thought I had got anything left. + </p> + <p> + Rumanika, above all, was as delighted as if he had come in for a fortune, + and sent to say the Raglan coat was a marvel, and the scarlet broadcloth + the finest thing he had ever seen. Nobody but Musa had ever given him such + beautiful beads before, and none ever gave with such free liberality. + Whatever I wanted I should have in return for it, as it was evident to him + I had really done him a great honour in visiting him. Neither his father + nor any of his forefathers had had such a great favour shown them. He was + alarmed, he confessed, when he heard we were coming to visit him, thinking + we might prove some fearful monsters that were not quite human, but now he + was delighted beyond all measure with what he saw of us. A messenger + should be sent at once to the king of Uganda to inform him of our + intention to visit him, with his own favourable report of us. This was + necessary according to the etiquette of the country. Without such a + recommendation our progress would be stopped by the people, whilst with + one word from him all would go straight; for was he not the gatekeeper, + enjoying the full confidence of Uganda? A month, however, must elapse, as + the distance to the palace of Uganda was great; but, in the meantime, he + would give me leave to go about in his country to do and see what I liked, + Nnanaji and his sons escorting me everywhere. Moreover, when the time came + for my going on to Uganda, if I had not enough presents to give the king, + he would fill up the complement from his own stores, and either go with me + himself, or send Nnanaji to conduct me as far as the boundary of Uganda, + in order that Rogero might not molest us on the way. In the evening, + Masudi, with Sangoro and several other merchants, came up from Kufro to + pay us a visit of respect. + </p> + <p> + 28th and 29th.—A gentle hint having come to us that the king's + brother, Wazezeru, expected a trifle in virtue of his rank, I sent him a + blanket and seventy-five blue egg-beads. These were accepted with the + usual good grace of these people. The king then, ever attentive to our + position as guests, sent his royal musicians to give us a tune. The men + composing the band were a mixture of Waganda and Wanyambo, who played on + reed instruments made telescope fashion, marking time by hand-drums. At + first they marched up and down, playing tunes exactly like the regimental + bands of the Turks, and then commenced dancing a species of "hornpipe," + blowing furiously all the while. When dismissed with some beads, Nnanaji + dropped in and invited me to accompany him out shooting on the slopes of + the hills overlooking the lake. He had in attendance all the king's sons, + as well as a large number of beaters, with three or four dogs. Tripping + down the greensward of the hills together, these tall, athletic princes + every now and then stopped to see who could shoot furthest, and I must say + I never witnessed better feats in my life. With powerful six-feet-long + bows they pulled their arrows' heads up to the wood, and made wonderful + shots in the distance. They then placed me in position, and arranging the + field, drove the covers like men well accustomed to sport—indeed, it + struck me they indulged too much in that pleasure, for we saw nothing but + two or three montana and some diminutive antelopes, about the size of + mouse deer, and so exceedingly shy that not one was bagged. + </p> + <p> + Returning home to the tents as the evening sky was illumined with the red + glare of the sun, my attention was attracted by observing in the distance + some bold sky-scraping cones situated in the country Ruanda, which at once + brought back to recollection the ill-defined story I had heard from the + Arabs of a wonderful hill always covered with clouds, on which snow or + hail was constantly falling. This was a valuable discovery, for I found + these hills to be the great turn-point of the Central African watershed. + Without loss of time I set to work, and, gathering all the travellers I + could in the country, protracted, from their descriptions, all the + distance topographical features set down in the map, as far north as 3° of + north latitude, as far east as 36°, and as far west as 26° of east + longitude; only afterwards slightly corrected, as I was better able to + connect and clear up some trifling but doubtful points. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, I was not only surprised at the amount of information about + distant places I was enabled to get here from these men, but also at the + correctness of their vast and varied knowledge, as I afterwards tested it + by observation and the statements of others. I rely so far on the + geographical information I thus received, that I would advise no one to + doubt the accuracy of these protractions until he has been on the spot to + test them by actual inspection. About the size only of the minor lakes do + I feel doubtful, more especially the Little Luta Nzige, which on the + former journey I heard was a salt lake, because salt was found on its + shores and in one of its islands. Now, without going into any lengthy + details, and giving Rumanika due credit for everything—for had he + not ordered his men to give me every information that lay in their power, + they would not have done so—I will merely say for the present that, + whilst they conceived the Victoria N'yanza would take a whole month for a + canoe to cross it, they thought the Little Luta Nzige might be crossed in + a week. The Mfumbiro cones in Ruanda, which I believe reach 10,000 feet, + are said to be the highest of the "Mountains of the Moon." At their base + are both salt and copper mines, as well as hot springs. There are also hot + springs in Mpororo, and one in Karague near where Rogero lived. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—The important business of announcing our approach to Uganda + was completed by Rumanika appointing Kachuchu to go to king Mtesa as + quickly as possible, to say we were coming to visit him. He was told that + we were very great men, who only travelled to see great kings and great + countries; and, as such, Rumanika trusted we should be received with + courteous respect, and allowed to roam all over the country wherever we + liked, he holding himself responsible for our actions for the time being. + In the end, however, we were to be restored to him, as he considered + himself our father, and therefore must see that no accident befell us. + </p> + <p> + To put the royal message in proper shape, I was now requested to send some + trifle by way of a letter or visiting card; but, on taking out a Colt's + revolving rifle for the purpose, Rumanika advised me not to send it, as + Mtesa might take fright, and, considering it a charm of evil quality, + reject us as bad magicians, and close his gates on us. Three bits of + cotton cloth were then selected as the best thing for the purpose; and, + relying implicitly on the advice of Rumanika, who declared his only object + was to further our views, I arranged accordingly, and off went Kachuchu. + </p> + <p> + To keep my friend in good-humour, and show him how well the English can + appreciate a kindness, I presented him with a hammer, a sailor's knife, a + Rodger's three-bladed penknife, a gilt letter-slip with paper and + envelopes, some gilt pens, an ivory holder, and a variety of other small + articles. Of each of these he asked the use, and then in high glee put it + into the big block-tin box, in which he kept his other curiosities, and + which I think he felt more proud of than any other possession. After this, + on adjourning to his baraza, Ungurue the Pig, who had floored my march in + Sorombo, and Makinga, our persecutor in Usui, came in to report that the + Watuta had been fighting in Usui, and taken six bomas, upon which Rumanika + asked me what I thought of it, and if I knew where the Watuta came from. I + said I was not surprised to hear Usui had attracted the Watuta's cupidity, + for every one knew of the plundering propensities of the inhabitants, and + as they became rich by their robberies, they must in turn expect to be + robbed. Where the Watuta came from, nobody could tell; they were dressed + something like the Zulu Kaffirs of the South, but appeared to be now + gradually migrating from the regions of N'yazza. To this Dr K'yengo, who + was now living with Rumanika as his head magician, added that, whilst he + was living in Utambara, the Watuta invested his boma six months; and + finally, when all their cows and stores were exhausted, they killed all + the inhabitants but himself, and he only escaped by the power of the + charms which he carried about him. These were so powerful, that although + he lay on the ground, and the Watuta struck at him with their spears, not + one could penetrate his body. + </p> + <p> + In the evening after this, as the king wished to see all my scientific + instruments, we walked down to the camp; and as he did not beg for + anything, I gave him some gold and mother-of-pearl shirt studs to swell up + his trinket-box. The same evening I made up my mind, if possible, to + purchase a stock of beads from the Arabs, and sent Baraka off to Kufro, to + see what kind of a bargain he could make with them; for, whilst I trembled + to think what those "blood-suckers" would have the impudence to demand + when they found me at their mercy, I felt that the beads must be bought, + or the expedition would certainly come to grief. + </p> + <p> + 1st and 2d.—Two days after this the merchants came in a body to see + me, and said their worst beads would stand me 80 dollars per frasala, as + they would realise that value in ivory on arrival at the coast. Of course + no business was done, for the thing was preposterous by all calculation, + being close on 2500 per cent. above Zanzibar valuation. I was "game" to + give 50 dollars, but as they would not take this, I thought of dealing + with Rumanika instead. I then gave Nnanaji, who had been constantly + throwing out hints that I ought to give him a gun as he was a great + sportsman, a lappet of beadwork to keep his tongue quiet, and he in return + sent me a bullock and sundry pots of pombe, which, in addition to the + daily allowance sent by Rumanika, made all my people drunk, and so + affected Baraka that one of the women—also drunk—having given + him some sharp abuse, he beat her in so violent a manner that the whole + drunken camp set upon him, and turned the place into a pandemonium. A row + amongst the negroes means a general rising of arms, legs, and voices; all + are in a state of the greatest excitement; and each individual thinks he + is doing the best to mend matters, but is actually doing his best to + create confusion. + </p> + <p> + By dint of perseverance, I now succeeded in having Baraka separated from + the crowd and dragged before me for justice. I found that the woman, who + fully understood the jealous hatred which existed in Baraka's heart + against Bombay, flirted with both of them; and, pretending to show a + preference for Bombay, set Baraka against her, when from high words they + came to blows, and set the place in a blaze. It was useless to remonstrate—Baraka + insisted he would beat the woman if she abused him, no matter whether I + thought it cowardly or not; he did not come with me expecting to be + bullied in this way—the whole fault lay with Bombay—I did not + do him justice—when he proved Bombay a thief at Usui, I did not turn + him off, but now, instead, I showed the preference to Bombay by always + taking him when I went to Rumanika. It was useless to argue with such a + passionate man, so I told him to go away and cool himself before morning. + </p> + <p> + When he was gone, Bombay said there was not one man in the camp, besides + his own set, who wished to go on to Egypt—for they had constant + arguments amongst themselves about it; and whilst Bombay always said he + would follow me wherever I led, Baraka and those who held by him abused + him and his set for having tricked them away from Zanzibar, under the + false hopes that the road was quite safe. Bombay said his arguments were, + that Bana knew better than anybody else what he was about, and he would + follow him, trusting to luck, as God was the disposer of all things, and + men could die but once. Whilst Baraka's arguments all rested the other + way;—that no one could tell what was ahead of him—Bana had + sold himself to luck and the devil—but though he did not care for + his own safety, he ought not to sacrifice the lives of others—Bombay + and his lot were fools for their pains in trusting to him. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—At daybreak Rumanika sent us word he was off to Moga-Namarinzi, + a spur of a hill beyond "the Little Windermere," overlooking the Ingezi + Kagera, or river which separates Kishakka from Karague, to show me how the + Kiangule river was fed by small lakes and marshes, in accordance with my + expressed wish to have a better comprehension of the drainage system of + the Mountains of the Moon. He hoped we would follow him, not by the land + route he intended to take, but in canoes which he had ordered at the ferry + below. Starting off shortly afterwards, I made for the lake, and found the + canoes all ready, but so small that, besides two paddlers, only two men + could sit down in each. After pushing through the tall reeds with which + the end of the lake is covered, we emerged in the clear open, and skirted + the further side of the water until a small strait was gained, which led + us into another lake, drained at the northern end with a vast swampy + plain, covered entirely with tall rushes, excepting only in a few places + where bald patches expose the surface of the water, or where the main + streams of the Ingezi and Luchoro valleys cut a clear drain for + themselves. + </p> + <p> + The whole scenery was most beautiful. Green and fresh, the slopes of the + hills were covered with grass, with small clumps of soft cloudy-looking + acacias growing at a few feet only above the water, and above them, facing + over the hills, fine detached trees, and here and there the gigantic + medicinal aloe. Arrived near the end of the Moga-Namirinzi hill in the + second lake, the paddlers splashed into shore, where a large concourse of + people, headed by Nnanaji, were drawn up to receive me. I landed with all + the dignity of a prince, when the royal band struck up a march, and we all + moved on to Rumanika's frontier palace, talking away in a very + complimentary manner, not unlike the very polite and flowery fashion of + educated Orientals. + </p> + <p> + Rumanika we found sitting dressed in a wrapper made of an nzoe antelope's + skin, smiling blandly as we approached him. In the warmest manner possible + he pressed me to sit by his side, asked how I had enjoyed myself, what I + thought of his country, and if I did not feel hungry; when a pic-nic + dinner was spread, and we all set to at cooked plantains and pombe, ending + with a pipe of his best tobacco. Bit by bit Rumanika became more + interested in geography, and seemed highly ambitious of gaining a + world-wide reputation through the medium of my pen. At his invitation we + now crossed over the spur to the Ingezi Kagera side, when, to surprise me, + the canoes I had come up the lake in appeared before us. They had gone out + of the lake at its northern end, paddled into, and then up the Kagera to + where we stood, showing, by actual navigation, the connection of these + highland lakes with the rivers which drain the various spurs of the + Mountains of the Moon. The Kagera was deep and dark, of itself a very fine + stream, and, considering it was only one—and that, too, a minor one—of + the various affluents which drain the mountain valleys into the Victoria + N'yanza through the medium of the Kitangule river, I saw at once there + must be water sufficient to make the Kitangule a very powerful tributary + to the lake. + </p> + <p> + On leaving this interesting place, with the widespread information of all + the surrounding countries I had gained, my mind was so impressed with the + topographical features of all this part of Africa, that in my heart I + resolved I would make Rumanika as happy as he had made me, and asked + K'yengo his doctor, of all things I possessed what the king would like + best. To my surprise I then learnt that Rumanika had set his heart on the + revolving rifle I had brought for Mtesa—the one, in fact, which he + had prevented my sending on to Uganda in the hands of Kachuchu, and he + would have begged me for it before had his high-minded dignity, and the + principle he had established of never begging for anything, not + interfered. I then said he should certainly have it; for as strongly as I + had withheld from giving anything to those begging scoundrels who wished + to rob me of all I possessed in the lower countries, so strongly now did I + feel inclined to be generous with this exceptional man Rumanika. We then + had another pic-nic together, and whilst I went home to join Grant, + Rumanika spent the night doing homage and sacrificing a bullock at the + tomb of his father Dagara. + </p> + <p> + Instead of paddling all down the lake again, I walked over the hill, and, + on crossing at its northern end, whished to shoot ducks; but the + superstitious boatmen put a stop to my intended amusement by imploring me + not to do so, lest the spirit of the lake should be roused to dry up the + waters. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—Rumanika returned in the morning, walking up the hill, followed + by a long train of his officers, and a party of men carrying on their + shoulders his state carriage, which consisted of a large open basket laid + on the top of two very long poles. After entering his palace, I + immediately called on him to thank him for the great treat he had given + me, and presented him, as an earnest of what I thought, with the Colt's + revolving rifle and a fair allowance of ammunition. His delight knew no + bounds on becoming the proprietor of such an extraordinary weapon, and + induced him to dwell on his advantages over his brother Rogero, whose + antipathy to him was ever preying on his mind. He urged me again to devise + some plan for overcoming him; and, becoming more and more confidential, + favoured me with the following narrative, by way of evidence how the + spirits were inclined to show all the world that he was the rightful + successor to the throne:—When Dagara died, and he, Nnanaji, and + Rogero, were the only three sons left in line of succession to the crown, + a small mystic drum of diminutive size was placed before them by the + officers of state. It was only feather weight in reality, but, being + loaded with charms, became so heavy to those who were not entitled to the + crown, that no one could lift it but the one person whom the spirits were + inclined towards as the rightful successor. Now, of all the three + brothers, he, Rumanika, alone could raise it from the ground; and whilst + his brothers laboured hard, in vain attempting to move it, he with his + little finger held it up without any exertion. + </p> + <p> + This little disclosure in the history of Karague led us on to further + particulars of Dagara's death and burial, when it transpired that the old + king's body, after the fashion of his predecessors, was sewn up in a + cow-skin, and placed in a boat floating on the lake, where it remained for + three days, until decomposition set in and maggots were engendered, of + which three were taken into the palace and given in charge to the + heir-elect; but instead of remaining as they were, one worm was + transformed into a lion, another into a leopard, and the third into a + stick. After this the body of the king was taken up and deposited on the + hill Moga-Namirinzi, where, instead of putting him underground, the people + erected a hut over him, and, thrusting in five maidens and fifty cows, + enclosed the doorway in such a manner that the whole of them subsequently + died from starvation. + </p> + <p> + This, as may naturally be supposed, led into further genealogical + disclosures of a similar nature, and I was told by Rumanika that his + grandfather was a most wonderful man; indeed, Karague was blessed with + more supernatural agencies than any other country. Rohinda the Sixth, who + was his grandfather, numbered so many years that people thought he would + never die; and he even became so concerned himself about it, reflecting + that his son Dagara would never enjoy the benefit of his position as + successor to the crown of Karague, that he took some magic powders and + charmed away his life. His remains were then taken to Moga-Namirinzi, in + the same manner as were those of Dagara; but, as an improvement on the + maggot story, a young lion emerged from the heart of the corpse and kept + guard over the hill, from whom other lions came into existence, until the + whole place has become infested by them, and has since made Karague a + power and dread to all other nations; for these lions became subject to + the will of Dagara, who, when attacked by the countries to the northward, + instead of assembling an army of men, assembled his lion force, and so + swept all before him. + </p> + <p> + Another test was then advanced at the instigation of K'yengo, who thought + Rumanika not quite impressive enough of his right to the throne; and this + was, that each heir in succession, even after the drum dodge, was required + to sit on the ground in a certain place of the country, where, if he had + courage to plant himself, the land would gradually rise up, telescope + fashion, until it reached the skies, when, if the aspirant was considered + by the spirits the proper person to inherit Karague, he would gradually be + lowered again without any harm happening; but, otherwise, the elastic hill + would suddenly collapse, and he would be dashed to pieces. Now, Rumanika, + by his own confession, had gone through this ordeal with marked success; + so I asked him if he found the atmosphere cold when so far up aloft, and + as he said he did so, laughing at the quaintness of the question, I told + him I saw he had learnt a good practical lesson on the structure of the + universe, which I wished he would explain to me. In a state of perplexity, + K'yengo and the rest, on seeing me laughing, thought something was wrong; + so, turning about, they thought again, and said, "No, it must have been + hot, because the higher one ascended the nearer he got to the sun." + </p> + <p> + This led on to one argument after another, on geology, geography, and all + the natural sciences, and ended by Rumanika showing me an iron much the + shape and size of a carrot. This he said was found by one of his villagers + whilst tilling the ground, buried some way down below the surface; but dig + as he would, he could not remove it, and therefore called some men to his + help. Still the whole of them united could not lift the iron, which + induced them, considering there must be some magic in it, to inform the + king. "Now," says Rumanika, "I no sooner went there and saw the iron, and + brought it here as you see it. What can such a sign mean?" "Of course that + you are the rightful king," said his flatterers. "Then," said Rumanika, in + exuberant spirits, "during Dagara's time, as the king was sitting with + many other men outside his hut, a fearful storm of thunder and lightning + arose, and a thunderbolt struck the ground in the midst of them, which + dispersed all the men but Dagara, who calmly took up the thunderbolt and + places it in the palace. I, however, no sooner came into possession, and + Rogero began to contend with me, than the thunderbolt vanished. How would + you account for this?" The flatterers said, "It is as clear as possible; + God gave the thunderbolt to Dagaro as a sign he was pleased with him and + his rule; but when he found two brothers contending, he withdrew it to + show their conduct was wicked." + </p> + <p> + 5th.—Rumanika in the morning sent me a young male nzoe (water-boc) + <a href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a> + which his canoe-men had caught in the high rushes at the head of the lake, + by the king's order, to please me; for I had heard this peculiar animal + described in such strange ways at Kaze, both by Musa and the Arabs, I was + desirous of having a look at one. It proved to be closely allied to a + water-boc found by Livingstone on the Ngami Lake; but, instead of being + striped, was very faintly spotted, and so long were its toes, it could + hardly walk on the dry ground; whilst its coat, also well adapted to the + moist element it lived in, was long, and of such excellent quality that + the natives prize it for wearing almost more than any other of the + antelope tribe. The only food it would eat were the tops of the tall + papyrus rushes; but though it ate and drank freely, and lay down very + quietly, it always charged with ferocity any person who went near it. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon Rumanika invited both Grant and myself to witness his New + Moon Levee, a ceremony which takes place every month with a view of + ascertaining how many of his subjects are loyal. On entering his palace + enclosure, the first thing we saw was a blaue boc's horn stuffed full of + magic powder, with very imposing effect, by K'yengo, and stuck in the + ground, with its mouth pointing in the direction of Rogero. In the second + court, we found thirty-five drums ranged on the ground, with as many + drummers standing behind them, and a knot of young princes and officers of + high dignity waiting to escort us into the third enclosure, where, in his + principal hut, we found Rumanika squatting on the ground, half-concealed + by the portal, but showing his smiling face to welcome us in. His head was + got up with a tiara of beads, from the centre of which, directly over the + forehead, stood a plume of red feathers, and encircling the lower face + with a fine large white beard set in a stock or band of beads. We were + beckoned to squat alongside Nnanaji, the master of ceremonies, and a large + group of high officials outside the porch. Then the thirty-five drums all + struck up together in very good harmony; and when their deafening noise + was over, a smaller band of hand-drums and reed instruments was ordered in + to amuse us. + </p> + <p> + This second performance over, from want of breath only, district officers, + one by one, came advancing on tip-toe, then pausing, contorting and + quivering their bodies, advancing again with a springing gait and + outspread arms, which they moved as if they wished to force them out of + their joints, in all of which actions they held drum-sticks or twigs in + their hands, swore with a maniacal voice an oath of their loyalty and + devotion to their king, backed by the expression of a hope that he would + cut off their heads if they ever turned from his enemies, and then, + kneeling before him, they held out their sticks that he might touch them. + With a constant reiteration of these scenes—the saluting at one + time, the music at another—interrupted only once by a number of + girls dancing something like a good rough Highland fling whilst the little + band played, the day's ceremonies ended. + </p> + <p> + 6th and 7th.—During the next two days, as my men had all worn out + their clothes, I gave them each thirty necklaces of beads to purchase a + suit of the bark cloth called mbugu, already described. Finding the flour + of the country too bitter to eat by itself, we sweetened it with ripe + plantains, and made a good cake of it. The king now, finding me + disinclined to fight his brother Rogero, either with guns or magic horns, + asked me to give him a "doctor" or charm to create longevity and to + promote the increase of his family, as his was not large enough to + maintain the dignity of so great a man as himself. I gave him a blister, + and, changing the subject, told him the history of the creation of man. + After listening to it attentively, he asked what thing in creation I + considered the greatest of all things in the world; for whilst a man at + most could only live one hundred years, a tree lived many; but the earth + ought to be biggest, for it never died. + </p> + <p> + I then told him again I wished one of his sons would accompany me to + England, that he might learn the history of Moses, wherein he would find + that men had souls which live for ever, but that the earth would come to + an end in the fullness of time. This conversation, diversified by numerous + shrewd remarks on the part of Rumanika, led to his asking how I could + account for the decline of countries, instancing the dismemberment of the + Wahuma in Kittara, and remarking that formerly Karague included Urundi, + Ruanda, and Kishakka, which collectively were known as the kingdom of + Meru, governed by one man. Christian principles, I said, made us what we + are, and feeling a sympathy for him made me desirous of taking one of his + children to learn in the same school with us, who, on returning to him, + could impart what he knew, and, extending the same by course of + instruction, would doubtless end by elevating his country to a higher + position than it ever knew before,—etc., etc. The policy and + government of the vast possessions of Great Britain were then duly + discussed, and Rumanika acknowledged that the pen was superior to that of + the sword, and the electric telegraph and steam engine the most wonderful + powers he had ever heard of. + </p> + <p> + Before breaking up, Rumanika wished to give me any number of ivories I + might like to mention, even three or four hundred, as a lasting + remembrance that I had done him the honour of visiting Karague in his + lifetime, for though Dagara had given to coloured merchants, he would be + the first who had given to a white man. Of course this royal offer was + declined with politeness; he must understand that it was not the custom of + big men in my country to accept presents of value when we made visits of + pleasure. I had enjoyed my residence in Karague, his intellectual + conversations and his kind hospitality, all of which I should record in my + books to hand down to posterity; but if he would give me a cow's horn, I + would keep it as a trophy of the happy days I had spent in his country. He + gave me one, measuring 3 feet 5 inches in length, and 18 3/4 inches in + circumference at the base. He then offered me a large sheet, made up of a + patchwork of very small N'yera antelope skins, most exquisitely cured and + sewn. This I rejected, as he told me it had been given to himself, + explaining that we prided ourselves on never parting with the gifts of a + friend; and this speech tickled his fancy so much, that he said he never + would part with anything I gave him. + </p> + <p> + 8th and 9th.—The 8th went off much in the usual way, by my calling + on the king, when I gave him a pack of playing-cards, which he put into + his curiosity-box. He explained to me, at my request, what sort of things + he would like any future visitors to bring him—a piece of gold and + silver embroidery; but, before anything else, I found he would like to + have toys—such as Yankee clocks with the face in a man's stomach, to + wind up behind, his eyes rolling with every beat of the pendulum; or a + china-cow milk-pot, a jack-in-the-box, models of men, carriages, and + horses—all animals in fact, and railways in particular. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th I went out shooting, as Rumanika, with his usual politeness, on + hearing my desire to kill some rhinoceros, ordered his sons to conduct the + filed for me. Off we started by sunrise to the bottom of the hills + overlooking the head of the Little Windermere lake. On arrival at the + scene of action—a thicket or acacia shrubs—all the men in the + neighbourhood were assembled to beat. Taking post myself, by direction, in + the most likely place to catch a sight of the animals, the day's work + began by the beaters driving the covers in my direction. In a very short + time, a fine male was discovered making towards me, but not exactly + knowing where he should bolt to. While he was in this perplexity, I stole + along between the bushes, and caught sight of him standing as if anchored + by the side of a tree and gave him a broadsider with Blissett, which, too + much for his constitution to stand, sent him off trotting, till exhausted + by bleeding he lay down to die, and allowed me to give him a settler. + </p> + <p> + In a minute or two afterwards, the good young princes, attracted by the + sound of the gun, came to see what was done. Their surprise knew no + bounds; they could scarcely believe what they saw; and then, on + recovering, with the spirit of true gentlemen, they seized both my hands, + congratulating me on the magnitude of my success, and pointed out, as an + example of it, a bystander who showed fearful scars, both on his abdomen + and at the blade of his shoulder, who they declared had been run through + by one of these animals. It was, therefore, wonderful to them, they + observed, with what calmness I went up to such formidable beasts. + </p> + <p> + Just at this time a distant cry was heard that another rhinoceros was + concealed in a thicket, and off we set to pursue her. Arriving at the + place mentioned, I settled at once I would enter with only two spare men + carrying guns, for the acacia thorns were so thick that the only tracks + into the thicket were runs made by these animals. Leading myself, bending + down to steal in, I tracked up a run till half-way through cover, when + suddenly before me, like a pig from a hole, a large female, with her young + one behind her, came straight down whoof-whoofing upon me. In this awkward + fix I forced myself to one side, though pricked all over with thorns in + doing so, and gave her one on the head which knocked her out of my path, + and induced her for safety to make for the open, where I followed her down + and gave her another. She then took to the hills and crossed over a spur, + when, following after her, in another dense thicket, near the head of a + glen, I came upon three, who no sooner sighted me, than all in line they + charged down my way. Fortunately at the time my gun-bearers were with me; + so, jumping to one side, I struck them all three in turn. One of them + dropped dead a little way on; but the others only pulled up when they + arrived at the bottom. To please myself now I had done quite enough; but + as the princes would have it, I went on with the chase. As one of the two, + I could see, had one of his fore-legs broken, I went at the sounder one, + and gave him another shot, which simply induced him to walk over the lower + end of the hill. Then turning to the last one, which could not escape, I + asked the Wanyambo to polish him off with their spears and arrows, that I + might see their mode of sport. As we moved up to the animal, he kept + charging with such impetuous fury, they could not go into him; so I gave + him a second ball, which brought him to anchor. In this helpless state the + men set at him in earnest, and a more barbarous finale I never did + witness. Every man sent his spear, assage, or arrow, into his sides, + until, completely exhausted, he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. + The day's sport was now ended, so I went home to breakfast, leaving + instructions that the heads should be cut off and sent to the king as a + trophy of what the white man could do. + </p> + <p> + 10th and 11th.—The next day, when I called on Rumanika, the spoils + were brought into court, and in utter astonishment he said, "Well, this + must have been done with something more potent than powder, for neither + the Arabs nor Nnanaji, although they talk of their shooting powers, could + have accomplished such a great feat as this. It is no wonder the English + are the greatest men in the world." + </p> + <p> + Neither the Wanyambo nor the Wahuma would eat the rhinoceros, so I was not + sorry to find all the Wanyamuezi porters of the Arabs at Kufro, on hearing + of the sport, come over and carry away all the flesh. They passed by our + camp half borne down with their burdens of sliced flesh, suspended from + poles which they carried on their shoulders; but the following day I was + disgusted by hearing that their masters had forbidden their eating "the + carrion," as the throats of the animals had not been cut; and, moreover, + had thrashed them soundly because they complained they were half starved, + which was perfectly true, by the poor food that they got as their pay. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—On visiting Rumanika again, and going through my geographical + lessons, he told me, in confirmation of Musa's old stories, that in Ruanda + there existed pigmies who lived in trees, but occasionally came down at + night, and, listening at the hut doors of the men, would wait until they + heard the name of one of its inmates, when they would call him out, and, + firing an arrow into his heart, disappear again in the same way as they + came. But, more formidable even than these little men, there were monsters + who could not converse with me, and never showed themselves unless they + saw women pass by; then, in voluptuous excitement, they squeezed them to + death. Many other similar stories were then told, when I, wishing to go, + was asked if I could kill hippopotami. Having answered that I could, the + king graciously said he would order some canoes for me the next morning; + and as I declined because Grant could not accompany me, as a terrible + disease had broken out in his leg, he ordered a pig-shooting party. + Agreeably with this, the next day I went out with his sons, numerously + attended; but although we beat the covers all day, the rain was so + frequent that the pigs would not bolt. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—After a long and amusing conversation with Rumanika in the + morning, I called on one of his sisters-in-law, married to an elder + brother who was born before Dagara ascended the throne. She was another of + those wonders of obesity, unable to stand excepting on all fours. I was + desirous to obtain a good view of her, and actually to measure her, and + induced her to give me facilities for doing so, by offering in return to + show her a bit of my naked legs and arms. The bait took as I wished it, + and after getting her to sidle and wriggle into the middle of the hut, I + did as I promised, and then took her dimensions as noted below. <a + href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a> + All of these are exact except the height, and I believe I could have + obtained this more accurately if I could have her laid on the floor. Not + knowing what difficulties I should have to contend with in such a piece of + engineering, I tried to get her height by raising her up. This, after + infinite exertions on the part of us both, was accomplished, when she sank + down again, fainting, for her blood had rushed to her head. Meanwhile, the + daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat stark-naked before us, sucking at a + milk-pot, on which the father kept her at work by holding a rod in his + hand, for as fattening is the first duty of fashionable female life, it + must be duly enforced by the rod if necessary. I got up a bit of + flirtation with missy, and induced her to rise and shake hands with me. + Her features were lovely, but her body was as round as a ball. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we had another row with my head men—Baraka having + accused Bombay of trying to kill him with magic. Bombay, who was so + incessantly bullied by Baraka's officious attempts to form party cliques + opposed to the interests of the journey, and get him turned out of the + camp, indiscreetly went to one of K'yengo's men, and asked him if he knew + of any medicine that would affect the hearts of the Wanguana so as to + incline them towards him; and on the sub-doctor saying Yes, Bombay gave + him some beads, and bought the medicine required, which, put into a pot of + pombe, was placed by Baraka's side. Baraka in the meanwhile got wind of + the matter through K'yengo, who, misunderstanding the true facts of the + case, said it was a charm to deprive Baraka of his life. A court of + inquiry having been convened, with all the parties concerned in + attendance, K'yengo's mistake was discovered, and Bombay was lectured for + his folly, as he had a thousand times before abjured his belief in such + magical follies; moreover, to punish him for the future, I took Baraka, + whenever I could, with me to visit the king, which, little as it may + appear to others, was of the greatest consequence to the hostile parties. + </p> + <p> + 15th and 16th.—When I next called on Rumanika I gave him a Vautier's + binocular and prismatic compass; on which he politely remarked he was + afraid he was robbing me of everything. More compliments went round, and + then he asked if it was true we could open a man's skull, look at his + brains, and close it up again; also if it was true we sailed all round the + world into regions where there was no difference between night and day, + and how, when he ploughed the seas in such enormous vessels as would carry + at once 20,000 men, we could explain to the sailors what they ought to do; + for, although he had heard of these things, no one was able to explain + them to him. + </p> + <p> + After all the explanations were given, he promised me a boat-hunt after + the nzoe in the morning; but when the time came, as difficulties were + raised, I asked him to allow us to anticipate the arrival of Kachuchu, and + march on to Kitangule. He answered, with his usual courtesy, That he would + be very glad to oblige us in any way that we liked; but he feared that, as + the Waganda were such superstitious people, some difficulties would arise, + and he must decline to comply with our request. "You must not," he added, + "expect ever to find again a reasonable man like myself." I then gave him + a book on "Kafir laws," which he said he would keep for my sake, with all + the rest of the presents, which he was determined never to give away, + though it was usual for him to send novelties of this sort to Mtesa, king + of Uganda, and Kamrasi, king of Unyoro, as a friendly recognition of their + superior positions in the world of great monarchies. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—Rumanika next introduced me to an old woman who came from the + island of Gasi, situated in the little Luta Nzige. Both her upper and + lower incisors had been extracted, and her upper lip perforated by a + number of small holes, extending in an arch from one corner to the other. + This interesting but ugly old lady narrated the circumstances by which she + had been enslaved, and then sent by Kamrasi as a curiosity to Rumanika, + who had ever since kept her as a servant in his palace. A man from Ruanda + then told us of the Wilyanwantu (men-eaters), who disdained all food but + human flesh; and Rumanika confirmed the statement. Though I felt very + sceptical about it, I could not help thinking it a curious coincidence + that the position they were said to occupy agreed with Petherick's Nyam + Nyams (men-eaters). + </p> + <p> + Of far more interest were the results of a conversation which I had with + another of Kamrasi's servants, a man of Amara, as it threw some light upon + certain statements made by Mr Leon of the people of Amara being + Christians. He said they bore single holes in the centres both of their + upper and lower lips, as well as in the lobes of both of their ears, in + which they wear small brass rings. They live near the N'yanza—where + it is connected by a strait with a salt lake, and drained by a river to + the northward—in comfortable houses, built like the tembes of + Unyamuezi. When killing a cow, they kneel down in an attitude of prayer, + with both hands together, held palm upwards, and utter Zu, a word the + meaning of which he did not know. I questioned him to try if the word had + any trace of a Christian meaning—for instance, a corruption of Jesu—but + without success. Circumcision is not known amongst them, neither have they + any knowledge of God or a soul. A tribe called Wakuavi, who are white, and + described as not unlike myself, often came over the water and made raids + on their cattle, using the double-edged sime as their chief weapon of war. + These attacks were as often resented, and sometimes led the Wamara in + pursuit a long way into their enemy's country, where, at a place called + Kisiguisi, they found men robed in red cloths. Beads were imported, he + thought, both from the east and from Ukidi. Associated with the countries + Masau or Masai, and Usamburu, which he knew, there was a large mountain, + the exact position of which he could not describe. + </p> + <p> + I took down many words of his language, and found they corresponded with + the North African dialects, as spoken by the people of Kidi, Gani, and + Madi. The southerners, speaking of these, would call them Wakidi, Wagani, + and Wamadi, but among themselves the syllable was is not prefixed, as in + the southern dialects, to signify people. Rumanika, who appeared immensely + delighted as he assisted me in putting the questions I wanted, and saw me + note them down in my book, was more confirmed than ever in the truth of my + stories that I came from the north, and thought as the beads came to + Amara, so should I be able to open the road and bring him more visitors. + This he knew was his only chance of ever seeing me more, for I swore I + would never go back through Usui, so greatly did I feel the indignities + imposed on me by Suwarora. + </p> + <p> + 18th.—To keep the king in good-humour, I now took a table-knife, + spoon, and fork to the palace, which, after their several uses were + explained, were consigned to his curiosity-box. Still Rumanika could not + understand how it was I spent so much and travelled so far, or how it + happened such a great country as ours could be ruled by a woman. He asked + the Queen's name, how many children she had, and the mode of succession; + then, when fully satisfied, led the way to show me what his father Dagara + had done when wishing to know of what the centre of the earth was + composed. At the back of the palace a deep ditch was cut, several yards + long, the end of which was carried by a subterranean passage into the + palace, where it was ended off with a cavern led into by a very small + aperture. It then appeared that Dagara, having failed, in his own opinion, + to arrive any nearer to the object in view, gave the excavating up as a + bad job, and turned the cave into a mysterious abode, where it was + confidently asserted he spent many days without eating or drinking, and + turned sometimes into a young man, and then an old one, alternately, as + the humour seized him. + </p> + <p> + 19th to 22d.—On the 19th I went fishing, but without success, for + they said the fish would not take in the lake; and on the following day, + as Grant's recovery seemed hopeless, for a long time at least, I went with + all the young princes to see what I could do with the hippopotami in the + lake, said to inhabit the small island of Conty. The part was an + exceedingly merry one. We went off to the island in several canoes, and at + once found an immense number of crocodiles basking in the sun, but not a + single hippopotamus was in sight. The princes then, thinking me "green" at + this kind of sport, said the place was enchanted, but I need not fear, for + they would bring them out to my feet by simply calling out certain names, + and this was no sooner done than four old and one young one came + immediately in font of us. It seemed quite a sin to touch them, they + looked all so innocent; but as the king wanted to try me again, I gave one + a ball on the head which sent him under, never again to be seen, for on + the 22nd, by which time I supposed he ought to have risen inflated with + gases, the king sent out his men to look out for him; but they returned to + say, that whilst all the rest were in the old place, that one, in + particular, could not be found. + </p> + <p> + On this K'yengo, who happened to be present whilst our interview lasted, + explained that the demons of the deep were annoyed with me for intruding + on their preserves, without having the courtesy to commemorate the event + by the sacrifice of a goat or a cow. Rumanika then, at my suggestions, + gave Nnanaji the revolving pistol I first gave him, but not without a + sharp rebuke for his having had the audacity to beg a gun of me in + consideration of his being a sportsman. We then went into a discourse on + astrology, when the intelligent Rumanika asked me if the same sun we saw + one day appeared again, or whether fresh suns came every day, and whether + or not the moon made different faces, to laugh at us mortals on earth. + </p> + <p> + 23d and 24th.—This day was spent by the king introducing me to his + five fat wives, to show with what esteem he was held by all the different + kings of the countries surrounding. From Mpororo—which, by the by, + is a republic—he was wedded to Kaogez, the daughter of Kahaya, who + is the greatest chief in the country; from Unyoro he received Kauyangi, + Kamrasi's daughter; from Nkole, Kambiri, the late Kasiyonga's daughter; + from Utumbi, Kirangu, the late Kiteimbua's daughter; and lastly, the + daughter of Chiuarungi, his head cook. + </p> + <p> + After presenting Rumanika with an india-rubber band—which, as usual, + amused him immensely—for the honour he had done me in showing me his + wives, a party of Waziwa, who had brought some ivory from Kidi, came to + pay their respects to him. On being questioned by me, they said that they + once saw some men like my Wanguana there; they had come from the north to + trade, but, though they carried firearms, they were all killed by the + people of Kidi. This was famous; it corroborated what I knew, but could + not convince others of,—that traders could find their way up to Kidi + by the Nile. It in a manner explained also how it was that Kamrasi, some + years before, had obtained some pink beads, of a variety the Zanzibar + merchants had never thought of bringing into the country. Bombay was now + quite convinced, and we all became transported with joy, until Rumanika, + reflecting on the sad state of Grant's leg, turned that joy into grief by + saying that the rules of Uganda are so strict, that no one who is sick + could enter the country. "To show," he said, "how absurd they are, your + donkey would not be permitted because he has no trousers; and you even + will have to put on a gown, as your unmentionables will be considered + indecorous." I now asked Rumanika if he would assist me in replenishing my + fast-ebbing store of beads, by selling tusks to the Arabs at Kufro, when + for every 35lb. weight I would give him 50 dollars by orders on Zanzibar, + and would insure him from being cheated, by sending a letter of advice to + our Consul residing there. At first he demurred, on the high-toned + principle that he could not have any commercial dealings with myself; but, + at the instigation of Bombay and Baraka, who viewed it in its true + character, as tending merely to assist my journey in the best manner he + could, without any sacrifice to dignity, he eventually yielded, and, to + prove his earnestness, sent me a large tusk, with a notice that his ivory + was not kept in the palace, but with his officers, and as soon as they + could collect it, so soon I should get it. + </p> + <p> + Rumanika, on hearing that it was our custom to celebrate the birth of our + Saviour with a good feast of beef, sent us an ox. I immediately paid him a + visit to offer the compliments of the season, and at the same time + regretted, much to his amusement, that he, as one of the old stock of + Abyssinians, who are the oldest Christians on record, should have + forgotten this rite; but I hoped the time would come when, by making it + known that his tribe had lapsed into a state of heathenism, white teachers + would be induced to set it all to rights again. At this time some Wahaiya + traders (who had been invited at my request by Rumanika) arrived. Like the + Waziwa, they had traded with Kidi, and they not only confirmed what the + Waziwa had said, but added that, when trading in those distant parts, they + heard of Wanguana coming in vessels to trade to the north of Unyoro; but + the natives there were so savage, they only fought with these foreign + traders. A man of Ruanda now informed us that the cowrie-shells, so + plentiful in that country, come there from the other or western side, but + he could not tell whence they were originally obtained. Rumanika then told + me Suwarora had been so frightened by the Watuta, and their boastful + threats to demolish Usui bit by bit, reserving him only as a tit-bit for + the end, that he wanted a plot of ground in Karague to preserve his + property in. + </p> + <p> + 26th, 27th, and 28th.—Some other travellers from the north again + informed us that they had heard of Wanguana who attempted to trade in Gani + and Chopi, but were killed by the natives. I now assured Rumanika that in + two or three years he would have a greater trade with Egypt than he ever + could have with Zanzibar; for when I opened the road, all those men he + heard of would swarm up here to visit him. He, however, only laughed at my + folly in proposing to go to a place of which all I heard was merely that + every stranger who went there was killed. He began to show a + disinclination to allow my going there, and though from the most friendly + intention, this view was alarming, for one word from him could have ruined + my projects. As it was, I feared my followers might take fright and refuse + to advance with me. I thought it good policy to talk of there being many + roads leading through Africa, so that Rumanika might see he had not got, + as he thought, the sole key to the interior. I told him again of certain + views I once held of coming to see him from the north up the Nile, and + from the east through the Masai. He observed that, "To open either of + those routes, you would require at least two hundred guns." He would, + however, do something when we returned from Uganda; for as Mtesa followed + his advice in everything, so did Kamrasi, for both held the highest + opinion of him. + </p> + <p> + The conversation then turning on London, and the way men and carriages + moved up the streets like strings of ants on their migrations, Rumanika + said the villages in Ruanda were of enormous extent, and the people great + sportsmen, for they turned out in multitudes, with small dogs on whose + necks were tied bells, and blowing horns themselves, to hunt leopards. + They were, however, highly superstitious, and would not allow any + strangers to enter their country; for some years ago, when Arabs went + there, a great drought and famine set in, which they attributed to evil + influences brought by them, and, turning them out of their country, said + they would never admit any of their like amongst them again. I said, in + return, I thought his Wanyambo just as superstitious, for I observed, + whilst walking one day, that they had placed a gourd on the path, and on + inquiry found they had done so to gain the sympathy of all passers-by to + their crop close at hand, which was blighted, imagining that the voice of + the sympathiser heard by the spirits would induce them to relent, and + restore a healthy tone to the crop. + </p> + <p> + During this time an interesting case was brought before us for judgment. + Two men having married one woman, laid claim to her child, which, as it + was a male one, belonged to the father. Baraka was appointed the umpire, + and immediately comparing the infant's face with those of its claimants, + gave a decision which all approved of but the loser. It was pronounced + amidst peals of laughter from my men; for whenever any little excitement + is going forward, the Wanguana all rush to the scene of action to give + their opinions, and joke over it afterwards. + </p> + <p> + 29th and 30th.—On telling Rumanika this story next morning, he said, + "Many funny things happen in Karague"; and related some domestic + incidents, concluding with the moral that "Marriage in Karague was a mere + matter of money." Cows, sheep, and slaves have to be given to the father + for the value of his daughter; but if she finds she has made a mistake, + she can return the dowry-money, and gain her release. The Wahuma, although + they keep slaves and marry with pure negroes, do not allow their daughters + to taint their blood by marrying out of their clan. In warfare it is the + rule that the Wahinda, or princes, head their own soldiers, and set them + the example of courage, when, after firing a few arrows, they throw their + bows away, and close at once with their spears and assages. Life is never + taken in Karague, either for murder or cowardice, as they value so much + their Wahuma breed; but, for all offences, fines of cows are exacted + according to the extent of the crime. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—Ever proud of his history since I had traced his descent from + Abyssinia and King David, whose hair was as straight as my own, Rumanika + dwelt on my theological disclosures with the greatest delight, and wished + to know what difference existed between the Arabs and ourselves; to which + Baraka replied, as the best means of making him understand, that whilst + the Arabs had only one Book, we had two; to which I added, Yes, that is + true in a sense; but the real merits lie in the fact that we have got the + better BOOK, as may be inferred from the obvious fact that we are more + prosperous, and their superiors in all things, as I would prove to him if + he would allow me to take one of his sons home to learn that BOOK; for + then he would find his tribe, after a while, better off than the Arabs + are. Much delighted, he said he would be very glad to give me two boys for + that purpose. + </p> + <p> + Then, changing the subject, I pressed Rumanika, as he said he had no idea + of a God or future state, to tell me what advantage he expected from + sacrificing a cow yearly at his father's grave. He laughingly replied he + did not know, but he hoped he might be favoured with better crops if he + did so. He also place pombe and grain, he said, for the same reason, + before a large stone on the hillside, although it could not eat, or make + any use of it; but the coast-men were of the same belief as himself, and + so were all the natives. No one in Africa, as far as he knew, doubted the + power of magic and spells; and if a fox barked when he was leading an army + to battle, he would retire at once, knowing that this prognosticated evil. + There were many other animals, and lucky and unlucky birds, which all + believed in. + </p> + <p> + I then told him it was fortunate he had no disbelievers like us to contend + with in battle, for we, instead of trusting to luck and such omens, put + our faith only in skill and pluck, which Baraka elucidated from his + military experience in the wars in British India. Lastly, I explained to + him how England formerly was as unenlightened as Africa, and believing in + the same sort of superstitions, and the inhabitants were all as naked as + his skin-wearing Wanyambo; but now, since they had grown wiser, and saw + through such impostures, they were the greatest men in the world. He said, + for the future he would disregard what the Arabs said, and trust to my + doctrines, for without doubt he had never seen such a wise man as myself; + and the Arabs themselves confirmed this when they told him that all their + beads and cloths came from the land of the Wazungu, or white men. + </p> + <p> + 1st, 2d, and 3d.—The new year was ushered in by the most exciting + intelligence, which drove us half wild with delight, for we fully believed + Mr Petherick was indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring to meet us. + It was this:—An officer of Rumanika's, who had been sent four years + before on a mission to Kamrasi, had just then returned with a party of + Kamrasi's who brought ivory for sale to the Arabs at Kufro, along with a + vaunting commission to inform Rumanika that Kamrasi had foreign visitors + as well as himself. They had not actually come into Unyoro, but were in + his dependency, the country of Gani, coming up the Nile in vessels. They + had been attacked by the Gani people, and driven back with considerable + loss both of men and property, although they were in sailing vessels, and + fired guns which even broke down the trees on the banks. Some of their + property had been brought to him, and he in return had ordered his + subjects not to molest them, but allow them to come on to him. Rumanika + enjoyed this news as much as myself, especially when I told him of + Petherick's promise to meet us, just as these men said he was trying to + do; and more especially so, when I told him that if he would assist me in + trying to communicate with Petherick, the latter would either come here + himself, or send one of his men, conveying a suitable present, whilst I + was away in Uganda; and then in the end we would all go off to Kamrasi's + together. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—Entering warmly into the spirit of this important intelligence, + Rumanika inquired into its truth; and, finding no reason to doubt it, said + he would send some men back with Kamrasi's men, if I could have patience + until they were ready to go. There would be no danger, as Kamrasi was his + brother-in-law, and would do all that he told him. + </p> + <p> + I now proposed to send Baraka, who, ashamed to cry off, said he would go + with Rumanika's officers if I allowed him a companion of his own choosing, + who would take care of him if he got sick on the way, otherwise he should + be afraid they would leave him to die, like a dog, in the jungles. We + consoled him by assenting to the companion he wished, and making Rumanika + responsible that no harm should come to him from any of the risks which + his imagination conjured up. Rumanika then gave him and Uledi, his + selected companion, some sheets of mbugu, in order that they might + disguise themselves as his officers whilst crossing the territories of the + king of Uganda. On inquiring as to the reason of this, it transpired that, + to reach Unyoro, the party would have to cross a portion of Uddu, which + the late king Sunna, on annexing that country to Uganda, had divided, not + in halves, but by alternate bands running transversely from Nkole to the + Victoria N'yanza. + </p> + <p> + 5th and 6th.—To keep Rumanika up to the mark, I introduced to him + Saidi, one of my men, who was formerly a slave, captured in Walamo, on the + borders of Abyssinia, to show him, by his similarity to the Wahuma, how it + was I had come to the conclusion that he was of the same race. Saidi told + him his tribe kept cattle with the same stupendous horns as those of the + Wahuma; and also that, in the same manner, they all mixed blood and milk + for their dinners, which, to his mind, confirmed my statement. At night, + as there was a partial eclipse of the moon, all the Wanguana marched up + and down from Rumanika's to Nnanaji's huts, singing and beating our tin + cooking-pots to frighten off the spirit of the sun from consuming entirely + the chief object of reverence, the moon. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—Our spirits were now further raised by the arrival of a + semi-Hindu-Suahili, named Juma, who had just returned from a visit to the + king of Uganda, bringing back with him a large present of ivory and + slaves; for he said he had heard from the king of our intention to visit + him, and that he had despatched officers to call us immediately. This + intelligence delighted Rumanika as much as it did us, and he no sooner + heard it than he said, with ecstasies, "I will open Africa, since the + white men desire it; for did not Dagara command us to show deference to + strangers?" Then, turning to me, he added, "My only regret is, you will + not take something as a return for the great expenses you have been put to + in coming to visit me." The expense was admitted, for I had now been + obliged to purchase from the Arabs upwards of £400 worth of beads, to keep + such a store in reserve for my return from Uganda as would enable me to + push on to Gondokoro. I thought this necessary, as every report that + arrived from Unyamuezi only told us of further disasters with the + merchants in that country. Sheikh Said was there even then, with my poor + Hottentots, unable to convey my post to the coast. + </p> + <p> + 8th to 10th.—At last we heard the familiar sound of the Uganda drum. + Maula, a royal officer, with a large escort of smartly-dressed men, women, + and boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, announced to our + straining ears the welcome intelligence that their king had sent them to + call us. N'yamgundu, who had seen us in Usui, had marched on to inform the + king of our advance and desire to see him; and he, intensely delighted at + the prospect of having white men for his guests, desired no time should be + lost in our coming on. Maula told us that his officers had orders to + supply us with everything we wanted whilst passing through his country, + and that there would be nothing to pay. + </p> + <p> + One thing only now embarrassed me—Grant was worse, without hope of + recovery for at least one or two months. This large body of Waganda could + not be kept waiting. To get on as fast as possible was the only chance of + ever bringing the journey to a successful issue; so, unable to help + myself, with great remorse at another separation, on the following day I + consigned my companion, with several Wanguana, to the care of my friend + Rumanika. I then separated ten loads of beads and thirty copper wires for + my expenses in Uganda; wrote a letter to Petherick, which I gave to + Baraka; and gave him and his companion beads to last as money for six + months, and also a present both for Kamrasi and the Gani chief. To Nsangez + I gave charge of my collections in natural history, and the reports of my + progress, addressed to the Geographical Society, which he was to convey to + Sheikh Said at Kaze, for conveyance as far as Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + This business concluded in camp, I started my men and went to the palace + to bid adieu to Rumanika, who appointed Rozaro, one of his officers, to + accompany me wherever I went in Uganda, and to bring me back safely again. + At Rumanika's request I then gave Mtesa's pages some ammunition to hurry + on with to the great king of Uganda, as his majesty had ordered them to + bring him, as quickly as possible, some strengthening powder, and also + some powder for his gun. Then, finally, to Maula, also under Rumanika's + instructions, I gave two copper wires and five bundles of beads; and, when + all was completed, set out on the march, perfectly sure in my mind that + before very long I should settle the great Nile problem for ever; and, + with this consciousness, only hoping that Grant would be able to join me + before I should have to return again, for it was never supposed for a + moment that it was possible I ever could go north from Uganda. Rumanika + was the most resolute in this belief, as the kings of Uganda, ever since + that country was detached from Unyoro, had been making constant raids, + seizing cattle and slaves from the surrounding communities. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX. History of the Wahuma + </h2> + <p> + The Abyssinians and Gallas—Theory of Conquest of Inferior by + Superior Races—The Wahuma and the Kingdom of Kittara—Legendary + History of the Kingdom of Uganda—Its Constitution, and the + Ceremonials of the Court. + </p> + <p> + The reader has now had my experience of several of the minor states, and + has presently to be introduced to Uganda, the most powerful state in the + ancient but now divided great kingdom of Kittara. I shall have to record a + residence of considerable duration at the court there; and, before + entering on it, I propose to state my theory of the ethnology of that part + of Africa inhabited by the people collectively styled Wahuma—otherwise + Gallas or Abyssinians. My theory is founded on the traditions of the + several nations, as checked by my own observations of what I saw when + passing through them. It appears impossible to believe, judging from the + physical appearance of the Wahuma, that they can be of any other race than + the semi-Shem-Hamitic of Ethiopia. The traditions of the imperial + government of Abyssinia go as far back as the scriptural age of King + David, from whom the late reigning king of Abyssinia, Sahela Selassie, + traced his descent. + </p> + <p> + Most people appear to regard the Abyssinians as a different race from the + Gallas, but, I believe, without foundation. Both alike are Christians of + the greatest antiquity. It is true that, whilst the aboriginal Abyssinians + in Abyssinia proper are more commonly agriculturists, the Gallas are + chiefly a pastoral people; but I conceive that the two may have had the + same relations with each other which I found the Wahuma kings and Wahuma + herdsmen holding with the agricultural Wazinza in Uzinza, the Wanyambo in + Karague, the Waganda in Uganda, and the Wanyoro in Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + In these countries the government is in the hands of foreigners, who had + invaded and taken possession of them, leaving the agricultural aborigines + to till the ground, whilst the junior members of the usurping clans herded + cattle—just as in Abyssinia, or wherever the Abyssinians or Gallas + have shown themselves. There a pastoral clan from the Asiatic side took + the government of Abyssinia from its people and have ruled over them ever + since, changing, by intermarriage with the Africans, the texture of their + hair and colour to a certain extent, but still maintaining a high stamp of + Asiatic feature, of which a market characteristic is a bridged instead of + bridgeless nose. + </p> + <p> + It may be presumed that there once existed a foreign but compact + government in Abyssinia, which, becoming great and powerful, sent out + armies on all sides of it, especially to the south, south-east, and west, + slave-hunting and devastating wherever they went, and in process of time + becoming too great for one ruler to control. Junior members of the royal + family then, pushing their fortunes, dismembered themselves from the + parent stock, created separate governments, and, for reasons which cannot + be traced, changed their names. In this manner we may suppose that the + Gallas separated from the Abyssinians, and located themselves to the south + of their native land. + </p> + <p> + Other Abyssinians, or possibly Gallas—it matters not which they were + or what we call them—likewise detaching themselves, fought in the + Somali country, subjugated that land, were defeated to a certain extent by + the Arabs from the opposite continent, and tried their hands south as far + as the Jub river, where they also left many of their numbers behind. Again + they attacked Omwita (the present Mombas), were repulsed, were lost sight + of in the interior of the continent, and, crossing the Nile close to its + source, discovered the rich pasture-lands of Unyoro, and founded the great + kingdom of Kittara, where they lost their religion, forgot their language, + extracted their lower incisors like the natives, changed their national + name to Wahuma, and no longer remembered the names of Hubshi or Galla—though + even the present reigning kings retain a singular traditional account of + their having once been half white and half black, with hair on the white + side straight, and on the black side frizzly. It was a curious indication + of the prevailing idea still entertained by them of their foreign + extraction, that it was surmised in Unyoro that the approach of us white + men into their country from both sides at once, augured an intention on + our part to take back the country from them. Believing, as they do, that + Africa formerly belonged to Europeans, from whom it was taken by negroes + with whom they had allied themselves, the Wahuma make themselves a small + residue of the original European stock driven from the land—an idea + which seems natural enough when we consider that the Wahuma are, in + numbers, quite insignificant compared with the natives. + </p> + <p> + Again, the princes of Unyoro are called Wawitu, and point to the north + when asked where their country Uwitu is situated, doubtfully saying, when + questioned about its distance, "How can we tell circumstances which took + place in our forefathers' times? we only think it is somewhere near your + country." Although, however, this very interesting people, the Wahuma, + delight in supposing themselves to be of European origin, they are forced + to confess, on closer examination, that although they came in the first + instance from the doubtful north, they came latterly from the east, as + part of a powerful Wahuma tribe, beyond Kidi, who excel in arms, and are + so fierce no Kidi people, terrible in war as these too are described to + be, can stand against them. This points, if our maps are true, to the + Gallas—for all pastorals in these people's minds are Wahuma; and if + we could only reconcile ourselves to the belief that the Wawitu derived + their name from Omwita, the last place they attacked on the east coast of + Africa, then all would be clear: for it must be noticed the Wakama, or + kings, when asked to what race they owe their origin, invariably reply, in + the first place, from princes—giving, for instance, the titles + Wawitu in Unyoro, and Wahinda in Karague—which is most likely caused + by their never having been asked such a close question before, whilst the + idiom of the language generally induces them to call themselves after the + name applied to their country. + </p> + <p> + So much for ethnological conjecture. Let us now deal with the Wahuma since + they crossed the Nile and founded the kingdom of Kittara, a large tract of + land bounded by the Victoria N'yanza and Kitangule Kagera or River on the + south, the Nile on the east, the Little Luta-Nzige Lake <a + href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> + on the north, and the kingdoms of Utubi and Nkole on the west. + </p> + <p> + The general name Kittara is gradually becoming extinct, and is seldom + applied to any but the western portions; whilst the north-eastern, in + which the capital is situated, is called Unyoro, and the other, Uddu apart + from Uganda, as we shall presently see. + </p> + <p> + Nobody has been able to inform us how many generations old the Wahuma + government of Unyoro is. The last three kings are Chiawambi, N'yawongo, + and the present king Kamrasi. In very early times dissensions amongst the + royal family, probably contending for the crown, such as we presume must + have occurred in Abyssinia, separated the parent stock, and drove the + weaker to find refuge in Nkole, where a second and independent government + of Wahuma was established. Since then, twenty generations ago, it is said + the Wahuma government of Karague was established in the same manner. The + conspirator Rohinda fled from Kittara to Karague with a large party of + Wahuma; sought the protection of Nono, who, a Myambo, was king over the + Wanyambo of that country; ingratiated himself and his followers with the + Wanyambo; and, finally, designing a crown for himself, gave a feast, + treacherously killed King Nono in his cups, and set himself on the throne, + the first mkama or king who ruled in Karague. Rohinda was succeeded by + Ntare, then Rohinda II., then Ntare II., which order only changed with the + eleventh reign, when Rusatira ascended the throne, and was succeeded by + Mehinga, then Kalimera, then Ntare VII., then Rohinda VI., then Dagara, + and now Rumanika. During this time the Wahuma were well south of the + equator, and still destined to spread. Brothers again contended for the + crown of their father, and the weaker took refuge in Uzinza, where the + fourth Wahuma government was created, and so remained under one king until + the last generation, when King Ruma died, and his two sons, Rohinda, the + eldest, and Suwarora, contended for the crown, but divided the country + between them, Rohinda taking the eastern half, and Suwarora the western, + at the instigation of the late King Dagara of Karague. + </p> + <p> + This is the most southerly kingdom of the Wahuma, though not the farthest + spread of its people, for we find the Watusi, who are emigrants from + Karague of the same stock, overlooking the Tanganyika Lake from the hills + of Uhha, and tending their cattle all over Unyamuezi under the protection + of the native negro chiefs; and we also hear that the Wapoka of Fipa, + south of the Rukwa Lake are the same. How or when their name became + changed from Wahuma to Watusi no one is able to explain; but, again + deducing the past from the present, we cannot help suspecting that, in the + same way as this change has taken place, the name Galla may have been + changed from Hubshi, and Wahuma from Gallas. But though in these southern + regions the name of the clan has been changed, the princes still retain + the title of Wahinda as in Karague, instead of Wawitu as in Unyoro, and + are considered of such noble breed that many of the pure negro chiefs + delight in saying, I am a Mhinda, or prince, to the confusion of + travellers, which confusion is increased by the Wahuma habits of + conforming to the regulations of the different countries they adopt. For + instance, the Wahuma of Uganda and Karague, though so close to Unyoro, do + not extract their lower incisors; and though the Wanyoro only use the + spear in war, the Wahuma in Karague are the most expert archers in Africa. + We are thus left only the one very distinguishing mark, the physical + appearance of this remarkable race, partaking even more of the phlegmatic + nature of the Shemitic father than the nervous boisterous temperament of + the Hamitic mother, as a certain clue to their Shem-Hamitic origin. + </p> + <p> + It remains to speak of the separation of Uddu from Unyoro, the present + kingdom of Uganda—which, to say the least of it, is extremely + interesting, inasmuch as the government there is as different from the + other surrounding countries as those of Europe are compared to Asia. + </p> + <p> + In the earliest times the Wahuma of Unyoro regarded all their lands + bordering on the Victoria Lake as their garden, owing to its exceeding + fertility, and imposed the epithet of Wiru, or slaves, upon its people, + because they had to supply the imperial government with food and clothing. + Coffee was conveyed to the capital by the Wiru, also mbugu (bark-cloaks), + from an inexhaustible fig-tree; in short, the lands of the Wiru were + famous for their rich productions. + </p> + <p> + Now Wiru in the northern dialect changes to Waddu in the southern; hence + Uddu, the land of the slaves, which remained in one connected line from + the Nile to the Kitangule Kagera until eight generations back, when, + according to tradition, a sportsman from Unyoro, by name Uganda, came with + a pack of dogs, a woman, a spear, and a shield, hunting on the left bank + of Katonga valley, not far from the lake. He was but a poor man, though so + successful in hunting that vast numbers of the Wiru flocked to him for + flesh, and became so fond of him as to invite him to be their king, + saying, "Of what avail to us is our present king, living so far away that + when we sent him a cow as a tributary offering, that cow on the journey + gave a calf, and the calf became a cow and gave another calf, and so on, + and yet the present has not reached its destination?" + </p> + <p> + At first Uganda hesitated, on the plea that they had a king already, but + on being farther pressed consented; when the people hearing his name said, + "Well, let it be so; and for the future let this country between the Nile + and Katonga be called Uganda, and let your name be Kimera, the first king + of Uganda." + </p> + <p> + The same night Kimera stood upon a stone with a spear in his hand, and a + woman and dog sitting by his side; and to this day people assert that his + footprints and the mark left by his spear-end, as well as the seats of the + woman and dog, are visible. The report of these circumstances soon reached + the great king of Unyoro, who, in his magnificence, merely said, "The poor + creature must be starving; allow him to feed there if he likes." The kings + who have succeeded Kimera are: 1. Mahanda; 2. Katereza; 3. Chabago; 4. + Simakokiro; 5. Kamanya; 6. Sunna; 7. Mtesa, not yet crowned. + </p> + <p> + These kings have all carried on the same system of government as that + commenced by Kimera, and proved themselves a perfect terror to Unyoro, as + we shall see in the sequel. Kimera, suddenly risen to eminence, grew proud + and headstrong—formed a strong clan around him, whom he appointed to + be his Wakunga, or officers—rewarded well, punished severely, and + soon became magnificent. Nothing short of the grandest palace, a throne to + sit upon, the largest harem, the smartest officers, the best dressed + people, even a menagerie for pleasure—in fact, only the best of + everything—would content him. Fleets of boats, not canoes, were + built for war, and armies formed, that the glory of the king might never + decrease. In short, the system of government, according to barbarous ideas + was perfect. Highways were cut from one extremity of the country to the + other, and all rivers bridged. No house could be built without its + necessary appendages for cleanliness; no person, however poor, could + expose his person; and to disobey these laws was death. + </p> + <p> + After the death of Kimera, the prosperity of Uganda never decreased, but + rather improved. The clan of officers formed by him were as proud of their + emancipation from slavery, as the king they had created was of his + dominion over them. They buried Kimera with state honours, giving charge + of the body to the late king's most favourite consort, whose duty it was + to dry the corpse by placing it on a board resting on the mouth of an + earthen open pot heated by fire from below. When this drying process was + completed, at the expiration of three months, the lower jaw was cut out + and neatly worked over with beads; the umbilical cord, which had been + preserved from birth, was also worked with beads. These were kept apart, + but the body was consigned to a tomb, and guarded ever after by this + officer and a certain number of the king's next most favourite women, all + of whom planted gardens for their maintenance, and were restricted from + seeing the succeeding king. + </p> + <p> + By his large establishment of wives, Kimera left a number of princes or + Warangira, and as many princesses. From the Warangira the Wakunga now + chose as their king the one whom they thought best suited for the + government of the country—not of too high rank by the mother's side, + lest their selection in his pride should kill them all, but one of low + birth. The rest were placed with wives in a suite of huts, under charge of + a keeper, to prevent any chance of intrigues and dissensions. They were to + enjoy life until the prince-elect should arrive at the age of discretion + and be crowned, when all but two of the princes would be burnt to death, + the two being reserved in case of accident as long as the king wanted + brother companions, when one would be banished to Unyoro, and the other + pensioned with suitable possessions in Uganda. The mother of the king by + this measure became queen-dowager, or N'yamasore. She halved with her son + all the wives of the deceased king not stationed at his grave, taking + second choice; kept up a palace only little inferior to her son's with + large estates, guided the prince-elect in the government of the country, + and remained until the end of his minority the virtual ruler of the land; + at any rate, no radical political changes could take place without her + sanction. The princesses became the wives of the king; no one else could + marry them. + </p> + <p> + Both mother and son had their Ktikiros or commander-in-chief, also titled + Kamraviona, as well as other officers of high rank. Amongst them in due + order of gradation are the Ilmas, a woman who had the good fortune to have + cut the umbilical cord at the king's birth; the Sawaganzi, queen's sister + and king's barber; Kaggao, Polino, Sakibobo, Kitunzi, and others, + governors of provinces; Jumab, admiral of the fleet; Kasugu, guardian of + the king's sister; Mkuenda, factor; Kunsa and Usungu, first and second + class executioners; Mgemma, commissioner in charge of tombs; Seruti, + brewer; Mfumbiro, cook; numerous pages to run messages and look after the + women, and minor Wakungu in hundreds. One Mkungu is always over the + palace, in command of the Wanagalali, or guards which are changed monthly; + another is ever in attendance as seizer of refractory persons. There are + also in the palace almost constantly the Wanangalavi, or drummers; Nsase, + pea-gourd rattlers; Milele, flute-players; Mukonderi, clarionet-players; + also players on wooden harmonicons and lap-harps, to which the players + sing accompaniments; and, lastly, men who whistle on their fingers—for + music is half the amusement of these courts. Everybody in Uganda is + expected to keep spears, shields and dogs, the Uganda arms and cognisance; + whilst the Wakungu are entitled to drums. There is also a Neptune Mgussa, + or spirit, who lives in the depths of the N'yanza, communicates through + the medium of his temporal Mkungu, and guides to a certain extent the + naval destiny of the king. + </p> + <p> + It is the duty of all officers, generally speaking, to attend at court as + constantly as possible; should they fail, they forfeit their lands, wives, + and all belongings. These will be seized and given to others more worthy + of them; as it is presumed that either insolence or disaffection can be + the only motive which would induce any person to absent himself for any + length of time from the pleasure of seeing his sovereign. Tidiness in + dress is imperatively necessary, and for any neglect of this rule the head + may be the forfeit. The punishment for such offences, however, may be + commuted by fines of cattle, goats, fowls, or brass wire. All acts of the + king are counted benefits, for which he must be thanked; and so every deed + done to his subjects is a gift received by them, though it should assume + the shape of flogging or fine; for are not these, which make better men of + them, as necessary as anything? The thanks are rendered by gravelling on + the ground, floundering about and whining after the manner of happy dogs, + after which they rise up suddenly, take up sticks—spears are not + allowed to be carried in court—make as if charging the king, + jabbering as fast as tongues can rattle, and so they swear fidelity for + all their lives. + </p> + <p> + This is the greater salutation; the lesser one is performed kneeling in an + attitude of prayer, continually throwing open the hands, and repeating + sundry words. Among them the word "n'yanzig" is the most frequent and + conspicuous; and hence these gesticulations receive the general + designation n'yanzig—a term which will be frequently met with, and + which I have found it necessary to use like an English verb. In + consequence of these salutations, there is more ceremony in court than + business, though the king, ever having an eye to his treasury, continually + finds some trifling fault, condemns the head of the culprit, takes his + liquidation-present, if he has anything to pay, and thus keeps up his + revenue. + </p> + <p> + No one dare stand before the king whilst he is either standing still or + sitting, but must approach him with downcast eyes and bended knees, and + kneel or sit when arrived. To touch the king's throne or clothes, even by + accident, or to look upon his women is certain death. When sitting in + court holding a levee, the king invariably has in attendance several + women, Wabandwa, evil-eye averters or sorcerers. They talk in feigned + voices raised to a shrillness almost amounting to a scream. They wear + dried lizards on their heads, small goat-skin aprons trimmed with little + bells, diminutive shields and spears set off with cock-hackles—their + functions in attendance being to administer cups of marwa (plantain wine). + To complete the picture of the court, one must imagine a crowd of pages to + run royal messages; they dare not walk for such deficiency in zeal to + their master might cost their life. A further feature of the court + consists in the national symbols already referred to—a dog, two + spears, and shield. + </p> + <p> + With the company squatting in large half-circle or three sides of a square + many deep before him, in the hollow of which are drummers and other + musicians, the king, sitting on his throne in high dignity, issues his + orders for the day much to the following effect:—"Cattle, women, and + children are short in Uganda; an army must be formed of one to two + thousand strong, to plunder Unyoro. The Wasoga have been insulting his + subjects, and must be reduced to subjection: for this emergency another + army must be formed, of equal strength, to act by land in conjunction with + the fleet. The Wahaiya have paid no tribute to his greatness lately and + must be taxed." For all these matters the commander-in-chief tells off the + divisional officers, who are approved by the king, and the matter is ended + in court. The divisional officers then find subordinate officers, who find + men, and the army proceeds with its march. Should any fail with their + mission, reinforcements are sent, and the runaways, called women, are + drilled with a red-hot iron until they are men no longer, and die for + their cowardice., All heroism, however, ensures promotion. The king + receives his army of officers with great ceremony, listens to their + exploits, and gives as rewards, women, cattle, and command over men—the + greatest elements of wealth in Uganda—with a liberal hand. + </p> + <p> + As to the minor business transacted in court, culprits are brought in + bound by officers, and reported. At once the sentence is given, perhaps + awarding the most torturous, lingering death—probably without trial + or investigation, and, for all the king knows, at the instigation of some + one influenced by wicked spite. If the accused endeavour to plead his + defence, his voice is at once drowned, and the miserable victim dragged + off in the roughest manner possible by those officers who love their king, + and delight in promptly carrying out his orders. Young virgins, the + daughters of Wakungu, stark naked, and smeared with grease, but holding, + for decency's sake, a small square of mbugu at the upper corners in both + hands before them, are presented by their fathers in propitiation for some + offence, and to fill the harem. Seizing-officers receive orders to hunt + down Wakungu who have committed some indiscretions, and to confiscate + their lands, wives, children, and property. An officer observed to salute + informally is ordered for execution, when everybody near him rises in an + instant, the drums beat, drowning his cries, and the victim of + carelessness is dragged off, bound by cords, by a dozen men at once. + Another man, perhaps, exposes an inch of naked leg whilst squatting, or + has his mbugu tied contrary to regulations, and is condemned to the same + fate. + </p> + <p> + Fines of cows, goats, and fowls are brought in and presented; they are + smoothed down by the offender's hands, and then applied to his face, to + show there is no evil spirit lurking in the gift; then thanks are + proferred for the leniency of the king in letting the presenter off so + cheaply, and the pardoned man retires, full of smiles, to the ranks of the + squatters. Thousands of cattle, and strings of women and children, + sometimes the result of a victorious plundering hunt, or else the + accumulated seizures from refractory Wakungu, are brought in; for there is + no more common or acceptable offering to appease the king's wrath towards + any refractory or blundering officer than a present of a few young + beauties, who may perhaps be afterwards given as the reward of good + service to other officers. + </p> + <p> + Stick-charms, being pieces of wood of all shapes, supposed to have + supernatural virtues, and coloured earths, endowed with similar qualities, + are produced by the royal magicians. The master of the hunt exposes his + spoils—such as antelopes, cats, porcupines, curious rats, etc., all + caught in nets, and placed in baskets—zebra, lion, and buffalo skins + being added. The fishermen bring their spoils; also the gardeners. The + cutlers show knives and forks made of iron inlaid with brass and copper; + the furriers, most beautifully-sewn patchwork of antelopes' skins; the + habit-maker, sheets of mbugu barkcloth; the blacksmith, spears; the maker + of shields, his productions;—and so forth; but nothing is ever given + without rubbing it down, then rubbing the face, and going through a long + form of salutation for the gracious favour the king has shown in accepting + it. + </p> + <p> + When tired of business, the king rises, spear in hand, and, leading his + dog, walked off without word or comment leaving his company, like dogs, to + take care of themselves. + </p> + <p> + Strict as the discipline of the exterior court is, that of the interior is + not less severe. The pages all wear turbans of cord made from aloe fibres. + Should a wife commit any trifling indiscretion, either by word or deed, + she is condemned to execution on the spot, bound by the pages and dragged + out. Notwithstanding the stringent laws for the preservation of decorum by + all male attendants, stark-naked full-grown women are the valets. + </p> + <p> + On the first appearance of the new moon every month, the king shuts + himself up, contemplating and arranging his magic horns—the horns of + wild animals stuffed with charm-powder—for two or three days. These + may be counted his Sundays or church festivals, which he dedicates to + devotion. On other days he takes his women, some hundreds, to bathe or + sport in ponds; or, when tired of that, takes long walks, his women + running after him, when all the musicians fall in, take precedence of the + party, followed by the Wakungu and pages, with the king in the centre of + the procession, separating the male company from the fair sex. On these + excursions no common man dare look upon the royal procession. Should + anybody by chance happen to be seen, he is at once hunted down by the + pages, robbed of everything he possessed, and may count himself very lucky + if nothing worse happens. Pilgrimages are not uncommon, and sometimes the + king spends a fortnight yachting; but whatever he does, or wherever he + goes, the same ceremonies prevail—his musicians, Wakungu, pages, and + the wives take part in all. + </p> + <p> + But the greatest of all ceremonies takes place at the time of the + coronation. The prince-elect then first seeks favour from the kings of all + the surrounding countries, demanding in his might and power one of each of + their daughters in marriage, or else recognition in some other way, when + the Ilmas makes a pilgrimage to the deceased king's tomb, to observe, by + the growth an other signs of certain trees, and plants, what destiny + awaits the king. According to the prognostics, they report that he will + either have to live a life of peace, or after coronation take the field at + the head of an army to fight either east, west, or both ways, when usually + the first march is on Kittara, and the second on Usoga. The Mgussa's voice + is also heard, but in what manner I do not know, as all communication on + state matters is forbidden in Uganda. These preliminaries being arranged, + the actual coronation takes place, when the king ceases to hold any + farther communion with his mother. The brothers are burnt to death, and + the king, we shall suppose, takes the field at the head of his army. + </p> + <p> + It is as the result of these expeditions that one-half Usogo and the + remaining half of Uddu have been annexed to Uganda. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X. Karague and Uganda + </h2> + <p> + Escape from Protectors—Cross the Kitangule, the First Affluent of + the Nile—Enter Uddu—Uganda—A Rich Country—Driving + away the Devil—A Conflict in the Camp—A Pretending Prince—Three + Pages with a Diplomatic Message from the King of Uganda—Crime in + Uganda. + </p> + <p> + Crossing back over the Weranhanje spur, I put up with the Arabs at Kufro. + Here, for the first time in this part of the world, I found good English + peas growing. Next day (11th), crossing over a succession of forks, + supporters to the main spur, we encamped at Luandalo. Here we were + overtaken by Rozaro, who had remained behind, as I now found, to collect a + large number of Wanyambo, whom he called his children, to share with him + the gratuitous living these creatures always look out for on a march of + this nature. + </p> + <p> + After working round the end of the great spur whilst following down the + crest of a fork, we found Karague separated by a deep valley from the + hilly country of Uhaiya, famous for its ivory and coffee productions. On + entering the rich plantain gardens of Kisaho, I was informed we must halt + there a day for Maula to join us, as he had been detained by Rumanika, + who, wishing to give him a present, had summoned Rozaro's sister to his + palace for that purpose. She was married to another, and had two children + by him, but that did not signify, as it was found in time her husband had + committed a fault, on account of which it was thought necessary to + confiscate all his property. + </p> + <p> + At this place all the people were in a constant state of inebriety, + drinking pombe all day and all night. I shot a montana antelope, and sent + its head and skin back to Grant, accompanied with my daily report to + Rumanika. + </p> + <p> + Maula having joined me, we marched down to near the end of the fork + overlooking the plain of Kitangule—the Waganada drums beating, and + whistles playing all the way we went along. + </p> + <p> + We next descended from the Mountains of the Moon, and spanned a long + alluvial plain to the settlement of the so-long-heard-of Kitangule, where + Rumanika keeps his thousands and thousands of cows. In former days the + dense green forests peculiar to the tropics, which grow in swampy places + about this plain, were said to have been stocked by vast herds of + elephants; but, since the ivory trade had increased, these animals had all + been driven off to the hills of Kisiwa and Uhaiya, or into Uddu beyond the + river, and all the way down to the N'yanza. + </p> + <p> + To-day we reached the Kitangule Kagera, or river, which, as I ascertained + in the year 1858, falls into the Victoria N'yanza on the west side. Most + unfortunately, as we led off to cross it, rain began to pour, so that + everybody and everything was thrown into confusion. I could not get a + sketch of it, though Grant was more fortunate afterwards; neither could I + measure or fathom it; and it was only after a long contest with the + superstitious boatmen that they allowed me to cross in their canoe with my + shoes on, as they thought the vessel would either upset, or else the river + would dry up, in consequence of their Neptune taking offence at me. Once + over, I looked down on the noble stream with considerable pride. About + eight yards broad, it was sunk down a considerable depth below the surface + of the land, like a huge canal, and is so deep, it could not be poled by + the canoemen; while it runs at a velocity of from three to four knots an + hour. + </p> + <p> + I say I viewed it with pride, because I had formed my judgment of its + being fed from high-seated springs in the Mountains of the Moon solely on + scientific geographical reasonings; and, from the bulk of the stream, I + also believed those mountains must obtain an altitude of 8000 feet <a + href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a> + or more, just as we find they do in Ruanda. I thought then to myself, as I + did at Rumanika's, when I first viewed the Mfumbiro cones, and gathered + all my distant geographical information there, that these highly saturated + Mountains of the Moon give birth to the Congo as well as to the Nile, and + also to the Shire branch of the Zambeze. + </p> + <p> + I came, at the same time, to the conclusion that all our previous + information concerning the hydrography of these regions, as well as the + Mountains of the Moon, originated with the ancient Hindus, who told it to + the priests of the Nile; and that all those busy Egyptian geographers, who + disseminated their knowledge with a view to be famous for their + long-sightedness, in solving the deep-seated mystery with enshrouded the + source of their holy river, were so many hypothetical humbugs. Reasoning + thus, the Hindu traders alone, in those days, I believed, had a firm basis + to stand upon, from their intercourse with the Abyssinians—through + whom they must have heard of the country of Amara, which they applied to + the N'yanza—and with the Wanyamuezi or men of the Moon, from whom + they heard of the Tanganyika and Karague mountains. I was all the more + impressed with this belief, by knowing that the two church missionaries, + Rebmann and Erhardt, without the smallest knowledge of the Hindus' map, + constructed a map of their own, deduced from the Zanzibar traders, + something on the same scale, by blending the Victoria N'yanza, Tanganyida, + and N'yazza into one; whilst to their triuned lake they gave the name + Moon, because the men of the Moon happened to live in front of the central + lake. And later still, Mr Leon, another missionary, heard of the N'yanza + and the country Amara, near which he heard the Nile made its escape. + </p> + <p> + Going on with the march we next came to Ndongo, a perfect garden of + plantains. The whole country was rich—most surprisingly so. The same + streaky argillaceous sandstones prevailed as in Karague. There was + nothing, in fact, that would not have grown here, if it liked moisture and + a temperate heat. It was a perfect paradise for negroes: as fast as they + sowed they were sure of a crop without much trouble; though, I must say, + they kept their huts and their gardens in excellent order. + </p> + <p> + As Maula would stop here, I had to halt also. The whole country along the + banks of the river, and near some impenetrable forests, was alive with + antelopes, principally hartebeests, but I would not fire at them until it + was time to return, as the villagers led me to expect buffaloes. The + consequence was, as no buffaloes were to be found, I got no sport, though + I wounded a hartebeest, and followed him almost into camp, when I gave up + the chase to some negroes, and amused myself by writing to Rumanika, to + say if Grant did not reach me by a certain date, I would try to navigate + the N'yanza, and return to him in boats up the Kitangule river. + </p> + <p> + We crossed over a low spur of hill extending from the mountainous kingdom + of Nkole, on our left, towards the N'yanza. Here I was shown by Nasib a + village called Ngandu, which was the farthest trading depot of the + Zanzibar ivory-merchants. It was established by Musa Mzuri, by the + permission of Rumanika; for, as I shall have presently to mention, Sunna, + after annexing this part of Uddu to Uganda, gave Rumanika certain bands of + territory in it as a means of security against the possibility of its + being wrested out of his hands again by the future kings of Unyoro. + Following on Musa's wake, many Arabs also came here to trade; but they + were so oppressive to the Waganda that they were recalled by Rumanika, and + obliged to locate themselves at Kufro. To the right, at the end of the + spur, stretching as far as the eye could reach towards the N'yanza, was a + rich, well-wooded, swampy plain, containing large open patches of water, + which not many years since, I was assured, were navigable for miles, but + now, like the Urigi lake, were gradually drying up. Indeed, it appeared to + me as if the N'yanza must have once washed the foot of these hills, but + had since shrunk away from its original margin. + </p> + <p> + On arrival at Ngambezi, I was immensely struck with the neatness and good + arrangement of the place, as well as its excessive beauty and richness. No + part of Bengal or Zanzibar could excel it in either respect; and my men, + with one voice, exclaimed, "Ah, what people these Waganda are!" and passed + other remarks, which may be abridged as follows:—"They build their + huts and keep their gardens just as well as we do at Unguja, with screens + and enclosures for privacy, a clearance in front of their establishments, + and a baraza or reception-hut facing the buildings. Then, too, what a + beautiful prospect it has!—rich marshy plains studded with mounds, + on each of which grow the umbrella cactus, or some other evergreen tree; + and beyond, again, another hill-spur such as the one we have crossed + over." One of king Mtesa's uncles, who had not been burnt to death by the + order of the late king Sunna on his ascension to the throne, was the + proprietor of this place, but unfortunately he was from home. However, his + substitute gave me his baraza to live in, and brought many presents of + goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, yams, plantains, sugarcane, and Indian corn, + and apologised in the end for deficiency in hospitality. I, of course, + gave him beads in return. + </p> + <p> + Continuing over the same kind of ground in the next succeeding spurs of + the streaky red-clay sandstone hills, we put up at the residence of + Isamgevi, a Mkungu or district officer of Rumanika's. His residence was as + well kept as Mtesa's uncle's; but instead of a baraza fronting his house, + he had a small enclosure, with three small huts in it, kept apart for + devotional purposes, or to propitiate the evil spirits—in short, + according to the notions of the place, a church. This officer gave me a + cow and some plantains, and I in return gave him a wire and some beads. + Many mendicant women, called by some Wichwezi, by others Mabandwa, all + wearing the most fantastic dresses of mbugu, covered with beads, shells, + and sticks, danced before us, singing a comic song, the chorus of which + was a long shrill rolling Coo-roo-coo-roo, coo-roo-coo-roo, delivered as + they came to a standstill. Their true functions were just as obscure as + the religion of the negroes generally; some called them devil-drivers, + other evil-eye averters; but, whatever it was for, they imposed a tax on + the people, whose minds being governed by a necessity for making some + self-sacrifice to propitiate something, they could not tell what, for + their welfare in the world, they always gave them a trifle in the same way + as the East Indians do their fakirs. + </p> + <p> + After crossing another low swampy flat, we reached a much larger group, or + rather ramification, of hill-spurs pointing to the N'yanza, called + Kisuere, and commanded by M'yombo, Rumanika's frontier officer. + Immediately behind this, to the northward, commenced the kingdom of + Unyoro; and here it was, they said, Baraka would branch off my line on his + way to Kamrasi. Maula's home was one march distant from this, so the + scoundrel now left me to enjoy himself there, giving as his pretext for + doing so, that Mtesa required him, as soon as I arrived here, to send on a + messenger that order might be taken for my proper protection on the line + of march; for the Waganda were a turbulent set of people, who could only + be kept in order by the executioner; and doubtless many, as was customary + on such occasions, would be beheaded, as soon as Mtesa heard of my coming, + to put the rest in a fright. I knew this was all humbug, of course, and I + told him so; but it was of no use, and I was compelled to halt. + </p> + <p> + On the 23d another officer, named Maribu, came to me and said, Mtesa, + having heard that Grant was left sick behind at Karague, had given him + orders to go there and fetch him, whether sick or well, for Mtesa was most + anxious to see white men. Hearing this I at once wrote to Grant, begging + him to come on if he could do so, and to bring with him all the best of my + property, or as much as he could of it, as I now saw there was more + cunning humbug than honesty in what Rumanika had told me about the + impossibility of our going north from Uganda, as well as in his saying + sick men could not go into Uganda, and donkeys without trousers would not + be admitted there, because they were considered indecent. If he was not + well enough to move, I advised him to wait there until I reached Mtesa's, + when I would either go up the lake and Kitangule to fetch him away, or + would make the king send boats for him, which I more expressly wished, as + it would tend to give us a much better knowledge of the lake. + </p> + <p> + Maula now came again, after receiving repeated and angry messages, and I + forced him to make a move. He led me straight up to his home, a very nice + place, in which he gave me a very large, clean, and comfortable hut—had + no end of plantains brought for me and my men—and said, "Now you + have really entered the kingdom of Uganda, for the future you must buy no + more food. At every place that you stop for the day, the officer in charge + will bring you plantains, otherwise your men can help themselves in the + gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a king's guest travels in + it. Any one found selling anything to either yourself or your men would be + punished." Accordingly, I stopped the daily issue of beads; but no sooner + had I done so, than all my men declared they could not eat plantains. It + was all very well, they said, for the Waganda to do so, because they were + used to it, but it did not satisfy their hunger. + </p> + <p> + Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for the + march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger returned + from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the most. Much + annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I refused all + Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with; and, finding + it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not stand being + chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should go without him. + Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back again. I said, if + he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation ended. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been + going on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil + out of a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old + man and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their + laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly bringing + them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe. In the + courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed in smart + mbugus—the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds wound + round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty manner. + These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up such a + continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this assembly I + now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on ahead from + Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With him, he said, + were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring on my party and + Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that the instant he + arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit him, the king caused + "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be executed, because, he + said, his subjects were so bumptious they would not allow any visitors to + come near him, else he would have had white men before. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—N'yamgundu, my old friend at Usui, then came to me, and said + he was the first man to tell Mtesa of our arrival in Usui, and wish to + visit him. The handkerchief I had given Irungu at Usui to present as a + letter to Mtesa he had snatched away from him, and given, himself, to his + king, who no sooner received it than he bound it round his head, and said, + in ecstasies of delight, "Oh, the Mzungu, the Mzungu! he does indeed want + to see me." Then giving him four cows as a return letter to take to me, he + said, "Hurry off as quickly as possible and bring him here." "The cows," + said N'yamgundu, "have gone on to Kisuere by another route, but I will + bring them here; and then, as Maula is taking you, I will go and fetch + Grant." I then told him not to be in such a hurry. I had turned off Maula + for treating me like a dog, and I would not be escorted by him again. He + replied that his orders would not be fully accomplished as long as any + part of my establishment was behind; so he would, if I wished it, leave + part of his "children" to guide me on to Mtesa's, whilst he went to fetch + Grant. An officer, I assured him, had just gone on to fetch Grant, so he + need not trouble his head on that score; at any rate, he might reverse his + plan, and send his children for Grant, whilst he went on with me, by which + means he would fully accomplish his mission. Long arguments ensued, and I + at length turned the tables by asking who was the greatest—myself or + my children; when he said, "As I see you are the greatest, I will do as + you wish; and after fetching the cows from Kisuere, we will march + to-morrow at sunrise." + </p> + <p> + The sun rose, but N'yamgundu did not appear. I was greatly annoyed lest + Maula should come and try to drive him away. I waited, restraining my + impatience until noon, when, as I could stand it no longer, I ordered + Bombay to strike my tent, and commence the march. A scene followed, which + brought out my commander-in-chief's temper in a rather surprising shape. + "How can we go in?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," said I. "Who will + guide us?" said Bombay. "Strike the tent," I said again. "But Rumanika's + men have all gone away, and there is no one to show us the way." "Never + mind; obey my orders, and strike the tent." Then, as Bombay would not do + it, I commenced myself, assisted by some of my other men, and pulled it + down over his head, all the women who were assembled under it, and all the + property. On this, Bombay flew into a passion, abusing the men who were + helping me, as there were fires and powder-boxes under the tent. I of + course had to fly into a passion and abuse Bombay. He, in a still greater + rage, said he would pitch into the men, for the whole place would be blown + up. "That is no reason why you should abuse my men," I said, "who are + better than you by obeying my orders. If I choose to blow up my property, + that is my look-out; and if you don't do your duty, I will blow you up + also." Foaming and roaring with rage, Bombay said he would not stand being + thus insulted. I then gave him a dig on the head with my fist. He squared + up, and pouted like an enraged chameleon, looking savagely at me. I gave + him another dig, which sent him staggering. He squared again: I gave him + another; till at last, as the claret was flowing, he sulked off, and said + he would not serve me any more. I then gave Nasib orders to take Bombay's + post, and commence the march; but the good old man made Bombay give in, + and off we went, amidst crowds of Waganda, who had collected to witness + with comedy, and were all digging at one another's heads, showing off in + pantomime the strange ways of the white man. N'yamgundu then jointed us, + and begged us to halt only one more day, as some of his women were still + at Kisuere; but Bombay, showing his nozzle rather flatter than usual, + said, "No; I got this on account of your lies. I won't tell Bana any more + of your excuses for stopping; you may tell him yourself if you like." + N'yamgundu, however, did not think this advisable, and so we went on as we + were doing. It was the first and last time I had ever occasion to lose my + dignity by striking a blow with my own hands; but I could not help it on + this occasion without losing command and respect; for although I often had + occasion to award 100 and even 150 lashes to my men for stealing, I could + not, for the sake of due subordination, allow any inferior officer to + strike Bombay, and therefore had to do the work myself. + </p> + <p> + Skirting the hills on the left, with a large low plain to the right we + soon came on one of those numerous rush-drains that appear to me to be the + last waters left of the old bed of the N'yanza. This one in particular was + rather large, being 150 yards wide. It was sunk where I crossed it, like a + canal, 14 feet below the plain; and what with mire and water combined, so + deep, I was obliged to take off my trousers whilst fording it. Once + across, we sought for and put up in a village beneath a small hill, from + the top of which I saw the Victoria N'yanza for the first time on this + march. N'yamgundu delighted me much: treating me as king, he always fell + down on his knees to address me, and made all his "children" look after my + comfort in camp. + </p> + <p> + We marched on again over the same kind of ground, alternately crossing + rush-drains of minor importance, though provokingly frequent, and rich + gardens, from which, as we passed, all the inhabitants bolted at the sound + of our drums, knowing well that they would be seized and punished if found + gazing at the king's visitors. Even on our arrival at Ukara not one soul + was visible. The huts of the villagers were shown to myself and my men + without any ceremony. The Wanyambo escort stole what they liked out of + them, and I got into no end of troubles trying to stop the practice; for + they said the Waganda served them the same way when they went to Karague, + and they had a right to retaliate now. To obviate this distressing sort of + plundering, I still served out beads to my men, and so kept them in hand a + little; but they were fearfully unruly, and did not like my interference + with what by the laws of the country they considered their right. + </p> + <p> + Here I had to stop a day for some of N'yamgundu's women, who, in my hurry + at leaving Maula's, were left behind. A letter from Grant was now brought + to me by a very nice-looking young man, who had the skin of a leopard-cat + (F. Serval) tied round his neck—a badge which royal personages only + were entitled to wear. N'yamgundu seeing this, as he knew the young man + was not entitled to wear it, immediately ordered his "children" to wrench + it from him. Two ruffianly fellows then seized him by his hands, and + twisted his arms round and round until I thought they would come out of + their sockets. Without uttering a sound the young man resisted, until + N'yamgundu told them to be quiet, for he would hold a court on the + subject, and see if the young man could defend himself. The ruffians then + sat on the ground, but still holding on to him; whilst N'yamgundu took up + a long stick, and breaking it into sundry bits of equal length, placed one + by one in front of him, each of which was supposed to represent one number + in line of succession to his forefathers. By this it was proved he did not + branch in any way from the royal stock. N'yamgundu then turning to the + company, said, What would he do now to expiate his folly? If the matter + was taken before Mtesa he would lose his head; was it not better he should + pay one hundred cows All agreeing to this, the young man said he would do + so, and quietly allowed the skin to be untied and taken off by the + ruffians. + </p> + <p> + Next day, after crossing more of those abominable rush-drains, whilst in + sight of the Victoria N'yanza, we ascended the most beautiful hills, + covered with verdure of all descriptions. At Meruka, where I put up, there + resided some grandees, the chief of whom was the king's aunt. She sent me + a goat, a hen, a basket of eggs, and some plantains, in return for which I + sent her a wire and some beads. I felt inclined to stop here a month, + everything was so very pleasant. The temperature was perfect. The roads, + as indeed they were everywhere, were as broad as our coach-roads, cut + through the long grasses, straight over the hills and down through the + woods in the dells—a strange contrast to the wretched tracks in all + the adjacent countries. The huts were kept so clean and so neat, not a + fault could be found with them—the gardens the same. Wherever I + strolled I saw nothing but richness, and what ought to be wealth. The + whole land was a picture of quiescent beauty, with a boundless sea in the + background. Looking over the hills, it struck the fancy at once that at + one period the whole land must have been at a uniform level with their + present tops, but that by the constant denudation it was subjected to by + frequent rains, it had been cut down and sloped into those beautiful hills + and dales which now so much pleased the eye; for there were none of those + quartz dykes I had seen protruding through the same kink of aqueous + formations in Usui and Karague; nor were there any other sorts of volcanic + disturbance to distort the calm quiet aspect of the scene. + </p> + <p> + From this, the country being all hill and dale, with miry rush-drains in + the bottoms, I walked, carrying my shoes and stockings in my hands, nearly + all the way. Rozaro's "children" became more and more troublesome, + stealing everything they could lay their hands upon out of the village + huts we passed on the way. On arrival at Sangua, I found many of them had + been seized by some men who, bolder than the rest, had overtaken them + whilst gutting their huts, and made them prisoners, demanding of me two + slaves and one load of beads for their restitution. I sent my men back to + see what had happened, and ordered them to bring all the men on to me, + that I might see fair play. They, however, took the law into their own + hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by firing their muskets, and + relieved the thieves. A complaint was then laid against Nyamgundu by the + chief officer of the village, and I was requested to halt. That I would + not do, leaving the matter in the hands of the governor-general, Mr + Pokino, whom I heard we should find at the next station, Masaka. + </p> + <p> + On arrival there at the government establishment—a large collection + of grass huts, separated one from the other within large enclosures, which + overspread the whole top of a low hill—I was requested to withdraw + and put up in some huts a short distance off, and wait until his + excellency, who was from home, could come and see me; which the next day + he did, coming in state with a large number of officers, who brought with + them a cow, sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a + large bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over + this land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the branches like + clusters of hollyberries. + </p> + <p> + I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the appointed + governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and the Kitangule + rivers. After the first formalities were over, the complaint about the + officers at Sangua was preferred for decision, on which Pokino at once + gave it against the villagers, as they had no right, by the laws of the + land, to lay hands on a king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and began + to abuse N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after telling + all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away out of my + camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the king's order he + was appointed; but he put Maula in the background, laughing at the way he + had "let the bird fly out of his hands," and settled that N'yamgundu + should be my guide. I then gave him a wire, and he gave me three large + sheets of mbugu, which he said I should require, as there were so many + water-courses to cross on the road I was going. A second day's halt was + necessitated by many of my men catching fever, probably owing to the + constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains. There was no want of + food here, for I never saw such a profusion of plantains anywhere. They + were literally lying in heaps on the ground, though the people were + brewing pombe all day, and cooking them for dinner every evening. + </p> + <p> + After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly coming in view + of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the same + description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu. + Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this + country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan of + Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or + taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends + with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because he had + a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few years ago, + however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to a slave named + Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer. + </p> + <p> + I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I had + seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave the + preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the long + range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large + island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps + one of his fleets of boats. + </p> + <p> + Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting two + round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages; and, + producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their king, + who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick on the ground + before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being affected by dreams + of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second symbolised the king's + desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to which the old phalic + worship was devoted; "and this third one," they said, "is a sign that the + king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in awe of him." I then + promised I would do what I could when I reached the palace, but feared to + do anything in the distance. I wished to go on with the march, but was + dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had received orders to find me some + cows here, as his king was most anxious I should be well fed. Next day, + however, we descended into the Katonga valley, where, instead of finding a + magnificent broad sheet of water, as I had been led to expect by the + Arabs' account of it, I found I had to wade through a succession of + rush-drains divided one from the other by islands. It took me two hours, + with my clothes tucked up under my arms, to get through them all; and many + of them were so matted with weeds, that my feet sank down as though I trod + in a bog. + </p> + <p> + The Waganda all said that at certain times in the year no one could ford + these drains, as they all flooded; but, strangely enough, they were always + lowest when most rain fell in Uganda. No one, however, could account for + this singular fact. No one knew of a lake to supply the waters, nor where + they came from. That they flowed into the lake there was no doubt—as + I could see by the trickling waters in some few places—and they lay + exactly on the equator. Rising out of the valley, I found all the country + just as hilly as before, but many of the rush-drains going to northward; + and in the dells were such magnificent trees, they quite took me by + surprise. Clean-trunked, they towered up just as so many great pillars, + and then spread out their high branches like a canopy over us. I thought + of the blue gums of Australia, and believed these would beat them. At the + village of Mbule we were gracefully received by the local officer, who + brought a small present, and assured me that the king was in a nervous + state of excitement, always asking after me. Whilst speaking he trembled, + and he was so restless he could never sit still. + </p> + <p> + Up and down we went on again through this wonderful country, surprisingly + rich in grass, cultivation, and trees. Watercourses were as frequent as + ever, though not quite so troublesome to the traveller, as they were more + frequently bridged with poles or palm-tree trunks. + </p> + <p> + This, the next place we arrived at, was N'yamgundu's own residence, where + I stopped a day to try and shoot buffaloes. Maula here had the coolness to + tell me he must inspect all the things I had brought for presentation to + the king, as he said it was the custom; after which he would hurry on and + inform his majesty. Of course I refused, saying it was uncourteous to both + the king and myself. Still he persisted, until, finding it hopeless, he + spitefully told N'yamgundu to keep me here at least two days. N'yamgundu, + however, very prudently told him he should obey his orders, which were to + take me on as fast as he could. I then gave N'yamgundu wires and beads for + himself and all his family round, which made Maula slink further away from + me than ever. + </p> + <p> + The buffaloes were very numerous in the tall grasses that lined the sides + and bottoms of the hills; but although I saw some, I could not get a shot, + for the grasses being double the height of myself, afforded them means of + dashing out of view as soon as seen, and the rustling noise made whilst I + followed them kept them on the alert. At night a hyena came into my hut, + and carried off one of my goats that was tied to a log between two of my + sleeping men. + </p> + <p> + During the next march, after passing some of the most beautifully-wooded + dells, in which lay small rush-lakes on the right of the road, draining, + as I fancied, into the Victoria Lake, I met with a party of the king's + gamekeepers, staking their nets all along the side of a hill, hoping to + catch antelopes by driving the covers with dogs and men. Farther on, also, + I came on a party driving one hundred cows, as a present from Mtesa to + Rumanika, which the officers in charge said was their king's return for + the favour Rumanika had done him in sending me on to him. It was in this + way that great kings sent "letters" to one another. + </p> + <p> + Next day, after going a short distance, we came on the Mwarango river, a + broad rush-drain of three hundred yards' span, two-thirds of which was + bridged over. Until now I did not feel sure where the various rush-drains + I had been crossing since leaving the Katonga valley all went to, but here + my mind was made up, for I found a large volume of water going to the + northwards. I took off my clothes at the end of the bridge and jumped into + the stream, which I found was twelve yards or so broad, and deeper than my + height. I was delighted beyond measure at this very surprising fact, that + I was indeed on the northern slopes of the continent, and had, to all + appearance, found one of the branches of the Nile's exit from the N'yanza. + I drew Bombay's attention to the current; and, collecting all the men of + the country, inquired of them where the river sprang from. Some of them + said, in the hills to the southward; but most of them said, from the lake. + I argued the point with them; for I felt quite sure so large a body of + flowing water could not be collected together in any place but the lake. + They then all agreed to this view, and further assured me it went to + Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro, where it joined the N'yanza, meaning the Nile. + </p> + <p> + Pushing on again we arrived at N'yama Goma, where I found Irungu—the + great ambassador I had first met in Usui, with all his "children"—my + enemy Makinga, and Suwarora's deputation with wire,—altogether, a + collection of one hundred souls. They had been here a month waiting for + leave to approach the king's palace. Not a villager was to be seen for + miles round; not a plantain remained on the trees, nor was there even a + sweet potato to be found in the ground. The whole of the provisions of + this beautiful place had been devoured by the king's guests, simply + because he had been too proud to see them in a hurry. This was alarming, + for I feared I should be served the same trick, especially as all the + people said this kind of treatment was a mere matter of custom which those + great kings demanded as a respect due to their dignity; and Bombay added, + with laughter, they make all manner of fuss to entice one to come when in + the distance, but when they have got you in their power they become + haughty about it, and think only of how they can best impose on your mind + the great consequence which they affect before their own people. + </p> + <p> + Here I was also brought to a standstill, for N'yamgundu said I must wait + for leave to approach the palace. He wished to have a look at the presents + I had brought for Mtesa. I declined to gratify it, taking my stand on my + dignity; there was no occasion for any distrust on such a trifling matter + as that, for I was not a merchant who sought for gain, but had come, at + great expense, to see the king of this region. I begged, however, he would + go as fast as possible to announce my arrival, explain my motive for + coming here, and ask for an early interview, as I had left my brother + Grant behind at Karague, and found my position, for want of a friend to + talk to, almost intolerable. It was not the custom of my country for great + men to consort with servants, and until I saw him, and made friends, I + should not be happy. I had a great deal to tell him about, as he was the + father of the Nile, which river drained the N'yanza down to my country to + the northward. With this message N'yamgundu hurried off as fast as + possible. + </p> + <p> + Next day (15th) I gave each of my men a fez cap, and a piece of red + blanket to make up military jackets. I then instructed them how to form a + guard of honour when I went to the palace, and taught Bombay the way + Nazirs was presented at courts in India. Altogether we made a good show. + When this was concluded I went with Nasib up a hill, from which we could + see the lake on one side, and on the other a large range of huts said to + belong to the king's uncle, the second of the late king Sunna's brothers, + who was not burnt to death when he ascended the throne. + </p> + <p> + I then (16th) very much wished to go and see the escape of the Mwerango + river, as I still felt a little sceptical as to its origin, whether or not + it came off those smaller lakes I had seen on the road the day before I + crossed the river; but no one would listen to my project. They all said I + must have the king's sanction first, else people, from not knowing my + object, would accuse me of practising witchcraft, and would tell their + king so. They still all maintained that the river did come out of the + lake, and said, if I liked to ask the king's leave to visit the spot, then + they would go and show it me. I gave way, thinking it prudent to do so, + but resolved in my mind I would get Grant to see it in boats on his voyage + from Karague. There were not guinea-fowls to be found here, nor a fowl, in + any of the huts, so I requested Rozaro to hurry off to Mtesa, and ask him + to send me something to eat. He simply laughed at my request, and said I + did not know what I was doing. It would be as much as his life was worth + to go one yard in advance of this until the king's leave was obtained. I + said, rather than be starved to death in this ignominious manner, I would + return to Karague; to which he replied, laughing, "Whose leave have you + got to do that? Do you suppose you can do as you like in this country?" + </p> + <p> + Next day (17th), in the evening, N'yamgundu returned full of smirks and + smiles, dropped on his knees at my feet, and, in company with his + "children," set to n'yanzigging, according to the form of that state + ceremonial already described. <a href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" + id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> In his excitement he was hardly + able to say all he had to communicate. Bit by bit, however, I learned that + he first went to the palace, and, finding the king had gone off yachting + to the Murchison Creek, he followed him there. The king for a long while + would not believe his tale that I had come, but, being assured, he danced + with delight, and swore he would not taste food until he had seen me. + "Oh," he said, over and over again and again, according to my informer, + "can this be true? Can the white man have come all this way to see me? + What a strong man he must be too, to come so quickly! Here are seven cows, + four of them milch ones, as you say he likes milk, which you will give + him; and there are three for yourself for having brought him so quickly. + Now, hurry off as fast as you can, and tell him I am more delighted at the + prospect of seeing him than he can be to see me. There is no place here + fit for his reception. I was on a pilgrimage which would have kept me here + seven days longer but as I am so impatient to see him, I will go off to my + palace at once, and will send word for him to advance as soon as I arrive + there." + </p> + <p> + About noon the succeeding day, some pages ran in to say we were to come + along without a moment's delay, as their king had ordered it. He would not + taste food until he saw me, so that everybody might know what great + respect he felt for me. In the meanwhile, however, he wished for some + gunpowder. I packed the pages off as fast as I could with some, and tried + myself to follow, but my men were all either sick or out foraging, and + therefore we could not get under way until the evening. After going a + certain distance, we came on a rush-drain, of much greater breadth even + than the Mwerango, called the Moga (or river) Myanza, which was so deep I + had to take off my trousers and tuck my clothes under my arms. It flowed + into the Mwerango, but with scarcely any current at all. This rush-drain, + all the natives assured me, rose in the hills to the southward—not + in the lake, as the Mwerango did—and it was never bridged over like + that river, because it was always fordable. This account seemed to me + reasonable; for though so much broader in its bed than the Mwerango, it + had no central, deep-flowing current. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI. Palace, Uganda + </h2> + <p> + Preparations for the Reception at the Court of Mtesa, King of Uganda—The + Ceremonial—African Diplomacy and Dignity—Feats with the Rifle—Cruelty, + and Wastefulness of Life—The Pages—The Queen-Dowager of Uganda—Her + Court Reception—I negotiate for a Palace—Conversations with + the King and Queen—The Queen's grand Entertainment—Royal + Dissipation. + </p> + <p> + To-day the king sent his pages to announce his intention of holding a + levee in my honour. I prepared for my first presentation at court, attired + in my best, though in it I cut a poor figure in comparison with the + display of the dressy Waganda. They wore neat bark cloaks resembling the + best yellow corduroy cloth, crimp and well set, as if stiffened with + starch, and over that, as upper-cloaks, a patchwork of small antelope + skins, which I observed were sewn together as well as any English glovers + could have pieced them; whilst their head-dresses, generally, were abrus + turbans, set off with highly-polished boar-tusks, stick-charms, seeds, + beads, or shells; and on their necks, arms, and ankles they wore other + charms of wood, or small horns stuffed with magic powder, and fastened on + by strings generally covered with snake-skin. N'yamgundu and Maula + demanded, as their official privilege, a first peep; and this being + refused, they tried to persuade me that the articles comprising the + present required to be covered with chintz, for it was considered + indecorous to offer anything to his majesty in a naked state. This little + interruption over, the articles enumerated below <a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a> were + conveyed to the palace in solemn procession thus:—With N'yamgundu, + Maula, the pages, and myself on the flanks, the Union-Jack carried by the + kirangozi guide led the way, followed by twelve men as a guard of honour, + dressed in red flannel cloaks, and carrying their arms sloped, with fixed + bayonets; whilst in their rear were the rest of my men, each carrying some + article as a present. + </p> + <p> + On the march towards the palace, the admiring courtiers, wonder-struck at + such an unusual display, exclaimed, in raptures of astonishment, some with + both hands at their mouths, and others clasping their heads with their + hands, "Irungi! irungi!" which may be translated "Beautiful! beautiful!" I + thought myself everything was going on as well as could be wished; but + before entering the royal enclosures, I found, to my disagreeable + surprise, that the men with Suwarora's hongo or offering, which consisted + of more than a hundred coils of wire, were ordered to lead the procession, + and take precedence of me. There was something specially aggravating in + this precedence; for it will be remembered that these very brass wires + which they saw, I had myself intended for Mtesa, that they were taken from + me by Suwarora as far back as Usui, and it would never do, without + remonstrance, to have them boastfully paraded before my eyes in this + fashion. My protests, however, had no effect upon the escorting Wakungu. + Resolving to make them catch it, I walked along as if ruminating in anger + up the broad high road into a cleared square, which divides Mtesa's domain + on the south from his Kamraviona's, or commander-in-chief, on the north, + and then turned into the court. The palace or entrance quite surprised me + by its extraordinary dimensions, and the neatness with which it was kept. + The whole brow and sides of the hill on which we stood were covered with + gigantic grass huts, thatched as neatly as so many heads dressed by a + London barber, and fenced all round with the tall yellow reeds of the + common Uganda tiger-grass; whilst within the enclosure, the lines of huts + were joined together, or partitioned off into courts, with walls of the + same grass. It is here most of Mtesa's three or four hundred women are + kept, the rest being quartered chiefly with his mother, known by the title + of N'yamasore, or queen-dowager. They stood in little groups at the doors, + looking at us, and evidently passing their own remarks, and enjoying their + own jokes, on the triumphal procession. At each gate as we passed, + officers on duty opened and shut it for us, jingling the big bells which + are hung upon them, as they sometimes are at shop-doors, to prevent + silent, stealthy entrance. + </p> + <p> + The first court passed, I was even more surprised to find the unusual + ceremonies that awaited me. There courtiers of high dignity stepped + forward to greet me, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions. Men, + women, bulls, dogs, and goats, were led about by strings; cocks and hens + were carried in men's arms; and little pages, with rope-turbans, rushed + about, conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their swiftness, + every one holding his skin-cloak tightly round him lest his naked legs + might by accident be shown. + </p> + <p> + This, then, was the ante-reception court; and I might have taken + possession of the hut, in which musicians were playing and singing on + large nine-stringed harps, like the Nubian tambira, accompanied by + harmonicons. By the chief officers in waiting, however, who thought fit to + treat us like Arab merchants, I was requested to sit on the ground outside + in the sun with my servants. Now, I had made up my mind never to sit upon + the ground as the natives and Arabs are obliged to do, nor to make my + obeisance in any other manner than is customary in England, though the + Arabs had told me that from fear they had always complied with the manners + of the court. I felt that if I did not stand up for my social position at + once, I should be treated with contempt during the remainder of my visit, + and thus lose the vantage-ground I had assumed of appearing rather as a + prince than a trader, for the purpose of better gaining the confidence of + the king. To avert over-hastiness, however—for my servants began to + be alarmed as I demurred against doing as I was bid—I allowed five + minutes to the court to give me a proper reception, saying, if it were not + conceded I would then walk away. + </p> + <p> + Nothing, however, was done. My own men, knowing me, feared for me, as they + did not know what a "savage" king would do in case I carried out my + threat; whilst the Waganda, lost in amazement at what seemed little less + than blasphemy, stood still as posts. The affair ended by my walking + straight away home, giving Bombay orders to leave the present on the + ground, and to follow me. + </p> + <p> + Although the king is said to be unapproachable, excepting when he chooses + to attend court—a ceremony which rarely happens—intelligence + of my hot wrath and hasty departure reached him in an instant. He first, + it seems, thought of leaving his toilet-room to follow me, but, finding I + was walking fast, and had gone far, changed his mind, and sent Wakungu + running after me. Poor creatures! they caught me up, fell upon their + knees, and implored I would return at once, for the king had not tasted + food, and would not until he saw me. I felt grieved at their touching + appeals; but, as I did not understand all they said, I simply replied by + patting my heart and shaking my head, walking if anything all the faster. + </p> + <p> + On my arrival at my hut, Bombay and others came in, wet through with + perspiration, saying the king had heard of all my grievances. Suwarora's + hongo was turned out of court, and, if I desired it, I might bring my own + chair with me, for he was very anxious to show me great respect—although + such a seat was exclusively the attribute of the king, no one else in + Uganda daring to sit on an artificial seat. + </p> + <p> + My point was gained, so I cooled myself with coffee and a pipe, and + returned rejoicing in my victory, especially over Suwarora. After + returning to the second tier of huts from which I had retired, everybody + appeared to be in a hurried, confused state of excitement, not knowing + what to make out of so unprecedented an exhibition of temper. In the most + polite manner, the officers in waiting begged me to be seated on my iron + stool, which I had brought with me, whilst others hurried in to announce + my arrival. But for a few minutes only I was kept in suspense, when a band + of music, the musicians wearing on their backs long-haired goat-skins, + passed me, dancing as they went along, like bears in a fair, and playing + on reed instruments worked over with pretty beads in various patters, from + which depended leopard-cat skins—the time being regulated by the + beating of long hand-drums. + </p> + <p> + The mighty king was now reported to be sitting on his throne in the + statehut of the third tier. I advanced, hat in hand, with my guard of + honour following, formed in "open ranks," who in their turn were followed + by the bearers carrying the present. I did not walk straight up to him as + if to shake hands, but went outside the ranks of a three-sided square of + squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins; some few of + whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the waist, the sign of + royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in the glaring sun; so I + donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon which set them all + a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close ranks, and sat gazing + at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight I never saw. The king, a + good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of twenty-five, was sitting on + a red blanket spread upon a square platform of royal grass, encased in + tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed in a new mbugu. The hair of + his head was cut short, excepting on the top, where it was combed up into + a high ridge, running from stem to stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was + a very neat ornament—a large ring, of beautifully-worked small + beads, forming elegant patterns by their various colours. On one arm was + another bead ornament, prettily devised; and on the other a wooden charm, + tied by a string covered with snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he + had alternate brass and copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to + the calf, a stocking of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and + elegant in its way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his + "getting up." For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and + a piece of gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his + large mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, + of which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little + gourd-cups, administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his + sisters and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman—the Uganda + cognisance—were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with + whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a + band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described. + </p> + <p> + I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters, + where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper + kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with two + other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour worked + into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation, but knew + not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift his head + from fear of being accused of eyeing the women; so the king and myself sat + staring at one another for full an hour—I mute, but he pointing and + remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard and general + appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted, the umbrella shut and + opened, and the guards face about and show off their red cloaks—for + such wonders had never been seen in Uganda. + </p> + <p> + Then, finding the day waning, he sent Maula on an embassy to ask me if I + had seen him; and on receiving my reply, "Yes, for full one hour," I was + glad to find him rise, spear in hand, lead his dog, and walk + unceremoniously away through the enclosure into the fourth tier of huts; + for this being a pure levee day, no business was transacted. The king's + gait in retiring was intended to be very majestic, but did not succeed in + conveying to me that impression. It was the traditional walk of his race, + founded on the step of the lion; but the outward sweep of the legs, + intended to represent the stride of the noble beast, appeared to me only + to realise a very ludicrous kind of waddle, which made me ask Bombay if + anything serious was the matter with the royal person. + </p> + <p> + I had now to wait for some time, almost as an act of humanity; for I was + told the state secret, that the king had retired to break his fast and eat + for the first time since hearing of my arrival; but the repast was no + sooner over than he prepared for the second act, to show off his + splendour, and I was invited in, with all my men, to the exclusion of all + his own officers save my two guides. Entering as before, I found him + standing on a red blanket, leaning against the right portal of the hut, + talking and laughing, handkerchief in hand, to a hundred or more of his + admiring wives, who, all squatting on the ground outside, in two groups, + were dressed in mew mbugus. My men dared not advance upright, nor look + upon the women, but, stooping, with lowered heads and averted eyes, came + cringing after me. Unconscious myself, I gave loud and impatient orders to + my guard, rebuking them for moving like frightened geese, and, with hat in + hand, stood gazing on the fair sex till directed to sit and cap. + </p> + <p> + Mtesa then inquired what messages were brought from Rumanika; to which + Maula, delighted with the favour of speaking to royalty, replied by + saying, Rumanika had gained intelligence of Englishmen coming up the Nile + to Gani and Kidi. The king acknowledged the truthfulness of their story, + saying he had heard the same himself; and both Wakungu, as is the custom + in Uganda, thanked their lord in a very enthusiastic manner, kneeling on + the ground—for no one can stand in the presence of his majesty—in + an attitude of prayer, and throwing out their hands as they repeated the + words N'yanzig, N'yanzig, ai N'yanzig Mkahma wangi, etc., etc., for a + considerable time; when, thinking they had done enough of this, and heated + with the exertion, they threw themselves flat upon their stomachs, and, + floundering about like fish on land, repeated the same words over again + and again, and rose doing the same, with their faces covered with earth; + for majesty in Uganda is never satisfied till subjects have grovelled + before it like the most abject worms. This conversation over, after gazing + at me, and chatting with his women for a considerable time, the second + scene ended. The third scene was more easily arranged, for the day was + fast declining. He simply moved his train of women to another hut, where, + after seating himself upon his throne, with his women around him, he + invited me to approach the nearest limits of propriety, and to sit as + before. Again he asked me if I had seen him—evidently desirous of + indulging in his regal pride; so I made the most of the opportunity thus + afforded me of opening a conversation by telling him of those grand + reports I had formerly heard about him, which induced me to come all his + way to see him, and the trouble it had cost me to reach the object of my + desire; at the same time taking a gold ring from off my finger, and + presenting it to him, I said, "This is a small token of friendship; if you + will inspect it, it is made after the fashion of a dog-collar, and, being + the king of metals, gold, is in every respect appropriate to your + illustrious race." + </p> + <p> + He said, in return, "If friendship is your desire, what would you say if I + showed you a road by which you might reach your home in one month?" Now + everything had to be told to Bombay, then to Nasib, my Kiganda + interpreter, and then to either Maula or N'yamgundu, before it was + delivered to the king, for it was considered indecorous to transmit any + message to his majesty excepting through the medium of one of his + officers. Hence I could not get an answer put in; for as all Waganda are + rapid and impetuous in their conversation, the king, probably forgetting + he had put a question, hastily changed the conversation and said, "What + guns have you got? Let me see the one you shoot with." I wished still to + answer the first question first, as I knew he referred to the direct line + to Zanzibar across the Masai, and was anxious, without delay, to open the + subject of Petherick and Grant; but no one dared to deliver my statement. + Much disappointed, I then said, "I had brought the best shooting-gun in + the world—Whitworth's rifle—which I begged he would accept, + with a few other trifles; and, with his permission, I would lay them upon + a carpet at his feet, as is the custom of my country when visiting + sultans." He assented, sent all his women away, and had an mbugu spread + for the purpose, on which Bombay, obeying my order, first spread a red + blanket, and then opened each article one after the other, when Nasib, + according to the usage already mentioned, smoothed them down with his + dirty hands, or rubbed them against his sooty face, and handed them to the + king to show there was no poison or witchcraft in them. Mtesa appeared + quite confused with the various wonders as he handled them, made silly + remarks, and pondered over them like a perfect child, until it was quite + dark. Torches were then lit, and guns, pistols, powder, boxes, tools, + beads—the whole collection, in short—were tossed together + topsy-turvy, bundled into mbugus, and carried away by the pages. Mtesa now + said, "It is late, and time to break up; what provisions would you wish to + have?" I said, "A little of everything, but no one thing constantly." "And + would you like to see me to-morrow?" "Yes, every day." "Then you can't + to-morrow, for I have business; but the next day come if you like. You can + now go away, and here are six pots of plantain-wine for you; my men will + search for food to-morrow." + </p> + <p> + 21st.—In the morning, whilst it rained, some pages drove in twenty + cows and ten goats, with a polite metaphorical message from their king, to + the effect that I had pleased him much, and he hoped I would accept these + few "chickens" until he could send more,—when both Maula and + N'yamgundu, charmed with their success in having brought a welcome guest + to Uganda, never ceased showering eulogiums on me for my fortune in having + gained the countenance of their king. The rain falling was considered at + court a good omen, and everybody declared the king mad with delight. + Wishing to have a talk with him about Petherick and Grant, I at once + started off the Wakungu to thank him for the present, and to beg pardon + for my apparent rudeness of yesterday, at the same time requesting I might + have an early interview with his majesty, as I had much of importance to + communicate; but the solemn court formalities which these African kings + affect as much as Oriental emperors, precluded my message from reaching + the king. I heard, however, that he had spent the day receiving Suwarora's + hongo of wire, and that the officer who brought them was made to sit in an + empty court, whilst the king sat behind a screen, never deigning to show + his majestic person. I was told, too, that he opened conversation by + demanding to know how it happened that Suwarora became possessed of the + wires, for they were made by the white men to be given to himself, and + Suwarora must therefore have robbed me of them; and it was by such + practices he, Mtesa, never could see any visitors. The officer's reply + was, Suwarora would not show the white men any respect, because they were + wizards would did not sleep in houses at night, but flew up to the tops of + hills, and practised sorcery of every abominable kind. The king to this + retorted, in a truly African fashion, "That's a lie; I can see no harm in + this white man; and if he had been a bad man, Rumanika would not have sent + him on to me." At night, when in bed, the king sent his pages to say, if I + desired his friendship I would lend him one musket to make up six with + what I had given him, for he intended visiting his relations the following + morning. I sent three, feeling that nothing would be lost by being + "open-handed." + </p> + <p> + 22d.—To-day the king went the round of his relations, showing the + beautiful things given him by the white man—a clear proof that he + was much favoured by the "spirits," for neither his father nor any of his + forefathers had been so recognised and distinguished by any "sign" as a + rightful inheritor to the Uganda throne: an anti-Christian interpretation + of omens, as rife in these dark regions now as it was in the time of King + Nebuchadnezzar. At midnight the three muskets were returned, and I was so + pleased with the young king's promptitude and honesty, I begged he would + accept them. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—At noon Mtesa sent his pages to invite me to his palace. I + went, with my guard of honour and my stool, but found I had to sit waiting + in an ante-hut three hours with his commander-in-chief and other high + officers before he was ready to see me. During this time Wasoga minstrels, + playing on tambira, and accompanied by boys playing on a harmonicon, kept + us amused; and a small page, with a large bundle of grass, came to me and + said, "The king hopes you won't be offended if required to sit on it + before him; for no person in Uganda, however high in office, is ever + allowed to sit upon anything raised above the ground, nor can anybody but + himself sit upon such grass as this; it is all that his throne is made of. + The first day he only allowed you to sit on your stool to appease your + wrath." + </p> + <p> + On consenting to do in "Rome as the Romans do," when my position was so + handsomely acknowledged, I was called in, and found the court sitting much + as it was on the first day's interview, only that the number of squatting + Wakungu was much diminished; and the king, instead of wearing his ten + brass and copper rings, had my gold one on his third finger. This day, + however, was cut out for business, as, in addition to the assemblage of + officers, there were women, cows, goats, fowls, confiscations, baskets of + fish, baskets of small antelopes, porcupines, and curious rats caught by + his gamekeepers, bundles of mbugu, etc., etc., made by his linen-drapers, + coloured earths and sticks by his magician, all ready for presentation; + but, as rain fell, the court broke up, and I had nothing for it but to + walk about under my umbrella, indulging in angry reflections against the + haughty king for not inviting me into his hut. + </p> + <p> + When the rain had ceased, and we were again called in, he was found + sitting in state as before, but this time with the head of a black bull + placed before him, one horn of which, knocked off, was placed alongside, + whilst four living cows walked about the court. + </p> + <p> + I was now requested to shoot the four cows as quickly as possible; but + having no bullets for my gun, I borrowed the revolving pistol I had given + him, and shot all four in a second of time; but as the last one, only + wounded, turned sharply upon me, I gave him the fifth and settled him. + Great applause followed this wonderful feat, and the cows were given to my + men. The king now loaded one of the carbines I had given him with his own + hands, and giving it full-cock to a page, told him to go out and shoot a + man in the outer court; which was no sooner accomplished than the little + urchin returned to announce his success, with a look of glee such as one + would see in the face of a boy who had robbed a bird's nest, caught a + trout, or done any other boyish trick. The king said to him, "And did you + do it well?" "Oh, yes, capitally." He spoke the truth, no doubt, for he + dared not have trifled with the king; but the affair created hardly any + interest. I never heard, and there appeared no curiosity to know, what + individual human being the urchin had deprived of life. + </p> + <p> + The Wakungu were not dismissed, and I asked to draw near, when the king + showed me a book I had given to Rumanika, and begged for the inspiring + medicine which he had before applied for through the mystic stick. The day + was now gone, so torches were lit, and we were ordered to go, though as + yet I had not been able to speak one word I wished to impart about + Petherick and Grant; for my interpreters were so afraid of the king they + dared not open their mouths until they were spoken to. The king was now + rising to go, when, in great fear and anxiety that the day would be lost, + I said, in Kisuahili, "I wish you would send a letter by post to Grant, + and also send a boat up the Kitangule, as far as Rumanika's palace, for + him, for he is totally unable to walk." I thus attracted his notice, + though he did not understand one word I uttered. The result was, that he + waited for the interpretation, and replied that a post would be no use, + for no one would be responsible for the safe delivery of the message; he + would send N'yamgundu to fetch him, but he thought Rumanika would not + consent to his sending boats up the Kitangule as far as the Little + Windermere; and then, turning round with true Mganda impetuosity, he + walked away without taking a word from me in exchange. + </p> + <p> + 24th.—Early this morning the pages came to say Mtesa desired I would + send him three of my Wanguaga to shoot cows before him. This was just what + I wanted. It had struck me that personal conferences with me so roused the + excitable king, that there was no bringing plain matters of business home + to him; so, detaching seven men with Bombay, I told him, before shooting, + to be sure and elicit the matter I wanted—which was, to excite the + king's cupidity by telling him I had a boat full of stores with two white + men at Gani, whom I wished to call to me if he would furnish some guides + to accompany my men; and further, as Grant could not walk, I wished boats + sent for him, at least as far as the ferry on the Kitangule, to which + place Rumanika, at any rate, would slip him down in canoes. At once, on + arriving, Mtesa admitted the men, and ordered them to shoot at some cows; + but Bombay, obeying my orders to first have his talk out, said, No—before + he could shoot he must obey master and deliver his message; which no + sooner was told than the king, in a hurry, excited by the prospects of + sport, impatiently said, "Very good; I will send men either by water or + overland through Kidi, <a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" + id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a> just as your master likes; only + some of his men had better go with mine: but now shoot cows, shoot cows; + for I want to see how the Waguana shoot." They shot seven, and all were + given to them when they were dismissed. In the evening the pages came to + ask me if I would like to shoot kites in the palace with their king; but I + declined shooting anything less than elephants, rhinoceros, or buffaloes; + and even for these I would not go out unless the king went with me;—a + dodge I conceived would tend more than any other to bring us together, and + so break through those ceremonial restraints of the court, which at + present were stopping all pans of progression. + </p> + <p> + 25th.—The king invited me to shoot with him—really buffaloes—close + to the palace; but as the pages had been sent off in a hurry, without + being fully instructed, I declined, on the plea that I had always been + gulled and kept waiting or treated with incivility, for hours before I + obtained an interview; and as I did not wish to have any more ruptures in + the palace, I proposed Bombay should go to make proper arrangements for my + reception on the morrow—as anyhow, at present I felt indisposed. The + pages dreaded their master's wrath, departed for a while, and then sent + another lad to tell me he was sorry to hear I felt unwell, but he hoped I + would come if only for a minute, bringing my medicines with me, for he + himself felt pain. That this second message was a forged one I had no + doubt, for the boys had not been long enough gone; still, I packed up my + medicines and went, leaving the onus, should any accident happen, upon the + mischievous story-bearers. + </p> + <p> + As I anticipated, on arrival at the palace I found the king was not ready + to receive me, and the pages desired me to sit with the officers in + waiting until he might appear. I found it necessary to fly at once into a + rage, called the pages a set of deceiving young blackguards, turned upon + my heel, and walked straight back through the courts, intending to leave + the palace. Everybody was alarmed; information of my retreat at once + reached the king, and he sent his Wakungu to prevent my egress. These + officers passed me, as I was walking hurriedly along under my umbrella, in + the last court, and shut the entrance-gate in front of me. This was too + much, so I stamped, and, pointing my finger, swore in every language I + knew, that if they did not open the gate again, as they had shut it at + once, and that, too, before my face, I would never leave the spot I stood + upon alive. Terror-stricken, the Wakungu fell on their knees before me, + doing as they were bid; and, to please them, I returned at once, and went + up to the king, who, now sitting on his throne, asked the officers how + they had managed to entice me back; to which they all replied in a breath, + n'yanzigging heartily, "Oh, we were so afraid—he was so terrible! + but he turned at once as soon as we opened the gate." "How? what gate? + tell us all about it." And when the whole story was fully narrated, the + matter was thought a good joke. After pausing a little, I asked the king + what ailed him, for I was sorry to hear he had been sick; but instead of + replying, he shook his head, as much as to say, I had put a very uncouth + question to his majesty—and ordered some men to shoot cows. + </p> + <p> + Instead of admiring this childish pastime, which in Uganda is considered + royal sport, I rather looked disdainful, until, apparently disappointed at + my indifference, he asked what the box I had brought contained. On being + told it was the medicine he desired, he asked me to draw near, and sent + his courtiers away. When only the interpreters and one confidential + officer were left, besides myself, he wished to know if I could apply the + medicine without its touching the afflicted part. To give him confidence + in my surgical skill, I moved my finger, and asked him if he knew what + gave it action; and on his replying in the negative, I have him an + anatomical lecture, which so pleased him, he at once consented to be + operated on, and I applied a blister accordingly. The whole operation was + rather ridiculous; for the blister, after being applied, had to be rubbed + in turn on the hands and faces of both Bombay and Nasib, to show there was + no evil spirit in the "doctor." Now, thought I to myself, is the right + time for business; for I had the king all to myself, then considered a + most fortunate occurrence in Uganda, where every man courts the favour of + a word with his king, and adores him as a deity, and he in turn makes + himself as distance as he can, to give greater effect to his exalted + position. The matter, however, was merely deferred: for I no sooner told + him my plans for communicating quickly with Petherick and Grant, than, + after saying he desired their coming even more than myself, he promised to + arrange everything on the morrow. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—In the morning, as agreed, I called on the king, and found the + blister had drawn nicely; so I let off the water, which Bombay called the + malady, and so delighted the king amazingly. A basket of fruit, like + Indian loquots, was then ordered in, and we ate them together, holding a + discussion about Grant and Petherick, which ended by the king promising to + send an officer by water to Kitangule, and another with two of my men, via + Usoga and Kidi, to Gani; but as it was necessary my men should go in + disguise, I asked the king to send me four mbugu and two spears; when, + with the liberality of a great king, he sent me twenty sheets of the + former, four spears, and a load of sun-dried fish strung on a stick in + shape of a shield. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—At last something was done. One Uganda officer and one Kidi + guide were sent to my hut by the king, as agreed upon yesterday, when I + detached Mabruki and Bilal from my men, gave them letters and maps + addressed to Petherick; and giving the officers a load of Mtende to pay + their hotel bills on the way, I gave them, at the same time, strict orders + to keep by the Nile; then, having dismissed them, I called on the king to + make arrangements for Grant, and to complain that my residence in Uganda + was anything but cheerful, as my hut was a mile from the palace, in an + unhealthy place, where he kept his Arab visitors. It did not become my + dignity to live in houses appropriated to persons in the rank of servants, + which I considered the ivory merchants to be; and as I had come only to + see him and the high officers of Uganda, not seeking for ivory or slaves, + I begged he would change my place of residence to the west end, when I + also trusted his officers would not be ashamed to visit me, as appeared to + be the case at present. Silence being the provoking resort of the king, + when he did not know exactly what to say, he made no answer to my appeal, + but instead, he began a discourse on geography, and then desired me to + call upon his mother, N'yamasore, at her palace Masorisori, vulgarly + called Soli Soli, for she also required medicine; and, moreover, I was + cautioned that for the future the Uganda court etiquette required I should + attend on the king two days in succession, and every third day on his + mother the queen-dowager, as such were their respective rights. + </p> + <p> + Till now, owing to the strict laws of the country, I had not been able to + call upon anybody but the king himself. I had not been able to send + presents or bribes to any one, nor had any one, except the cockaded pages, + by the king's order, visited me; neither was anybody permitted to sell me + provisions, so that my men had to feed themselves by taking anything they + chose from certain gardens pointed out by the king's officers, or by + seizing pombe or plantains which they might find Waganda carrying towards + the palace. This non-interventive order was part of the royal policy, in + order that the king might have the full fleecing of his visitors. + </p> + <p> + To call upon the queen-mother respectfully, as it was the opening visit, I + too, besides the medicine-chest, a present of eight brass and copper wire, + thirty blue-egg beads, one bundle of diminutive beads, and sixteen cubits + of chintz, a small guard, and my throne of royal grass. The palace to be + visited lay half a mile beyond the king's, but the highroad to it was + forbidden me, as it is considered uncourteous to pass the king's gate + without going in. So after winding through back-gardens, the slums of + Bandowaroga, I struck upon the highroad close to her majesty's, where + everything looked like the royal palace on a miniature scale. A large + cleared space divided the queen's residence from her Kamraviona's. The + outer enclosures and courts were fenced with tiger-grass; and the huts, + though neither so numerous nor so large, were constructed after the same + fashion as the king's. Guards also kept the doors, on which large bells + were hung to give alarm, and officers in waiting watched the throne-rooms. + All the huts were full of women, save those kept as waiting-rooms; where + drums and harmonicons were played for amusement. On first entering, I was + required to sit in a waiting-hut till my arrival was announced; but that + did not take long, as the queen was prepared to receive me; and being of a + more affable disposition than her son, she held rather a levee of + amusement than a stiff court of show. I entered the throne-hut as the gate + of that court was thrown open, with my hat off, but umbrella held over my + head, and walked straight towards her till ordered to sit upon my bundle + of grass. + </p> + <p> + Her majesty—fat, fair, and forty-five—was sitting, plainly + garbed in mbugu, upon a carpet spread upon the ground within a curtain of + mbugu, her elbow resting on a pillow of the same bark material; the only + ornaments on her person being an abrus necklace, and a piece of mbugu tied + round her head, whilst a folding looking-glass, much the worse for wear, + stood open by her side. An iron rod like a spit, with a cup on the top, + charged with magic powder, and other magic wands, were placed before the + entrance; and within the room, four Mabandwa sorceresses or devil-drivers, + fantastically dressed, as before described, and a mass of other women, + formed the company. For a short while we sat at a distance, exchanging + inquiring glances at one another, when the women were dismissed, and a + band of music, with a court full of Wakungu, was ordered in to change the + scene. I also got orders to draw near and sit fronting her within the hut. + Pombe, the best in Uganda, was then drunk by the queen, and handed to me + and to all the high officers about her, when she smoked her pipe, and bade + me smoke mine. The musicians, dressed in long-haired Usoga goat-skins, + were now ordered to strike up, which they did, with their bodies swaying + or dancing like bears in a fair. Different drums were then beat, and I was + asked if I could distinguish their different tones. + </p> + <p> + The queen, full of mirth, now suddenly rose, leaving me sitting, whilst + she went to another hut, changed her mbugu for a deole, and came back + again for us to admire her, which was no sooner done to her heart's + content, than a second time, by her order, the court was cleared, and, + when only three or four confidential Wakungu were left, she took up a + small faggot of well-trimmed sticks, and, selecting three, told me she had + three complains. "This stick," she says, "represents my stomach, which + gives me much uneasiness; this second stick my liver, which causes + shooting pains all over my body; and this third one my heart, for I get + constant dreams at night about Sunna, my late husband, and they are not + pleasant." The dreams and sleeplessness I told her was a common widow's + complaint, and could only be cured by her majesty making up her mind to + marry a second time; but before I could advise for the bodily complaints, + it would be necessary for me to see her tongue, feel her pulse, and + perhaps, also, her sides. Hearing this, the Wakungu said, "Oh, that can + never be allowed without the sanction of the king"; but the queen, rising + in her seat, expressed her scorn at the idea to taking advice from a mere + stripling, and submitted herself for examination. + </p> + <p> + I then took out two pills, the powder of which was tasted by the Wakungu + to prove that there was no devilry in "the doctor," and gave orders for + them to be eaten at night, restricting her pombe and food until I saw her + again. My game was now advancing, for I found through her I should get the + key to an influence that might bear on the king, and was much pleased to + hear her express herself delighted with me for everything I had done + except stopping her grog, which, naturally enough in this great + pombe-drinking country, she said would be a very trying abstinence. + </p> + <p> + The doctoring over, her majesty expressed herself ready to inspect the + honorarium I had brought for her, and the articles were no sooner + presented by Bombay and Nasib, with the usual formalities of stroking to + insure their purity, than she, boiling with pleasure, showed them all to + her officers, who declared, with a voice of most exquisite triumph, that + she was indeed the most favoured of queens. Then, in excellent good taste, + after saying that nobody had ever given her such treasures, she gave me, + in return, a beautifully-worked pombe sucking-pipe, which was acknowledged + by every one to be the greatest honour she could pay me. + </p> + <p> + Not satisfied with this, she made me select, though against my desire, a + number of sambo, called here gundu, rings of giraffe hair wound round with + thin iron or copper wire, and worn as anklets; and crowned with all sundry + pots of pombe, a cow, and a bundle of dried fish, of the description given + in the woodcut, called by my men Samaki Kambari. This business over, she + begged me to show her my picture-books, and was so amused with them that + she ordered her sorceresses and all the other women in again to inspect + them with her. Then began a warm and complimentary conversation, which + ended by an inspection of my rings and all the contents of my pockets, as + well as of my watch, which she called Lubari—a term equivalent to a + place of worship, the object of worship itself, or the iron horn or magic + pan. Still she said I had not yet satisfied her; I must return again two + days hence, for she like me much—excessively—she could not say + how much; but now the day was gone, I might go. With this queer kind of + adieu she rose and walked away, leaving me with my servants to carry the + royal present home. + </p> + <p> + 28th.—My whole thoughts were now occupied in devising some scheme to + obtain a hut in the palace, not only the better to maintain my dignity, + and so gain superior influence in the court, but also that I might have a + better insight into the manners and customs of these strange people. I was + not sorry to find the king attempting to draw me to court, daily to sit in + attendance on him as his officers were obliged to do all day long, in + order that he might always have a full court or escort whenever by chance + he might emerge from his palace, for it gave me an opening for asserting + my proper position. + </p> + <p> + Instead, therefore, of going at the call of his pages this morning I sent + Bombay with some men to say that although I was desirous of seeing him + daily, I could not so expose myself to the sun. In all other countries I + received, as my right, a palace to live in when I called on the king of my + country, and unless he gave one now I should feel slighted; moreover, I + should like a hut in the same enclosure as himself, when I could sit and + converse with him constantly, and teach him the use of the things I had + given him. By Bombay's account, the king was much struck with the force of + my humble request, and replied that he should like to have Bana, meaning + myself, ever by his side, but his huts were all full of women, and + therefore it could not be managed; if, however, Bana would but have + patience for a while, a hut should be built for him in the environs, which + would be a mark of distinction he had never paid to any visitor before. + Then changing the subject by inspecting my men, he fell so much in love + with their little red "fez" caps, that he sent off his pages to beg me for + a specimen, and, on finding them sent by the boys, he remarked, with warm + approbation, how generous I was in supplying his wishes, and then, turning + to Bombay, wished to know what sort of return-presents would please me + best. Bombay, already primed, instantly said, "Oh, Bana, being a great man + in his own country, and not thirsting for gain in ivory or slaves, would + only accept such things as a spear, shield, or drum, which he could take + to his own country as a specimen of the manufactures of Uganda, and a + pleasing recollection of his visit to the king." + </p> + <p> + "Ah," says Mtesa, "if that is all he wants, then indeed will I satisfy + him, for I will give him the two spears with which I took all this + country, and, when engaged in so doing, pierced three men with one stab. + </p> + <p> + "But, for the present, is it true what I have heard, that Bana would like + to go out with me shooting?" "Oh yes, he is a most wonderful sportsman—shoots + elephants and buffaloes, and birds on the wing. He would like to go out on + a shooting excursion and teach you the way." + </p> + <p> + Then turning the subject, in the highest good-humour the king made + centurions of N'yamgundu and Maula, my two Wakungu, for their good + service, he said, in bringing him such a valuable guest. This delighted + them so much that as soon as they could they came back to my camp, threw + themselves at my feet, and n'yanzigging incessantly, narrated their + fortunes, and begged, as a great man, I would lend them some cows to + present to the king as an acknowledgement for the favour he had shown + them. The cows, I then told them, had come from the king, and could not go + back again, for it was not the habit of white men to part with their + presents; but as I felt their promotion redounded on myself, and was + certainly the highest compliment their king could have paid me, I would + give them each a wire to make their salaam good. + </p> + <p> + This was enough; both officers got drunk, and, beating their drums, + serenaded the camp until the evening set in, when, to my utter surprise, + an elderly Mganda woman was brought into camp with the + commander-in-chief's metaphorical compliments, hoping I would accept her + "to carry my water"; with this trifling addition, that in case I did not + think her pretty enough, he hoped I would not hesitate to select which I + liked from ten others, of "all colours," Wahuma included, who, for that + purpose, were then waiting in his palace. + </p> + <p> + Unprepared for this social addition in my camp, I must now confess I felt + in a fix, knowing full well that nothing so offends as rejecting an offer + at once, so I kept her for the time being, intending in the morning to + send her back with a string of blue beads on her neck; but during the + night she relieved me of my anxieties by running away, which Bombay said + was no wonder, for she had obviously been seized as part of some + confiscated estate, and without doubt knew where to find some of her + friends. + </p> + <p> + To-day, for the first time since I have been here, I received a quantity + of plantains. This was in consequence of my complaining that the king's + orders to my men to feed themselves at others' expense was virtually + making them a pack of thieves. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—I received a letter from Grant, dated 10th February, reporting + Baraka's departure for Unyoro on the 30th January, escorted by Kamrasi's + men on their return, and a large party of Rumanika's bearing presents as a + letter from their king; whilst Grant himself hoped to leave Karague before + the end of the month. I then sent Bombay to see the queen, to ask after + her health, beg for a hut in the palace enclosures, and say I should have + gone myself, only I feared her gate might be shut, and I cannot go + backwards and forwards so far in the sun without a horse or an elephant to + ride upon. She begged I would come next morning. A wonderful report came + that the king put two tops of powder into his Whitworth rifle to shoot a + cow, and the bullet not only passed through the cow, but through the court + fence, then through the centre of a woman, and, after passing the outer + fence, flew whizzing along no one knew where. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—Calling on the queen early, she admitted me at once, scolding me + severely for not having come or sent my men to see her after she had taken + the pills. She said they did her no good, and prevailed on me to give her + another prescription. Then sending her servant for a bag full of + drinking-gourds, she made me select six of the best, and begged for my + watch. That, of course, I could not part with; but I took the opportunity + of telling her I did not like my residence; it was not only far away from + everybody, but it was unworthy of my dignity. I came to Uganda to see the + king and queen, because the Arabs said they were always treated with great + respect; but now I could perceive those Arabs did not know what true + respect means. Being poor men, they thought much of a cow or goat given + gratis, and were content to live in any hovels. Such, I must inform her, + was not my case. I could neither sit in the sun nor live in a poor man's + hut. When I rose to leave for breakfast, she requested me to stop, but I + declined, and walked away. I saw, however, there was something wrong; for + Maula, always ordered to be in attendance when anybody visits, was + retained by her order to answer why I would not stay with her longer. If I + wanted food or pombe, there was plenty of it in her palace, and her cooks + were the cleverest in the world; she hoped I would return to see her in + the morning. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—Our cross purposes seemed to increase; for, while I could not + get a satisfactory interview, the king sent for N'yamgundu to ascertain + why I had given him good guns and many pretty things which he did not know + the use of, and yet I would not visit him to explain their several uses. + N'yamgundu told him I lived too far off, and wanted a palace. After this I + walked off to see N'yamasore, taking my blankets, a pillow, and some + cooking-pots to make a day of it, and try to win the affections of the + queen with sixteen cubits bindera, three pints peke, and three pints + mtende beads, which, as Waganda are all fond of figurative language, I + called a trifle for her servants. + </p> + <p> + I was shown in at once, and found her majesty sitting on an Indian carpet, + dressed in a red linen wrapper with a gold border, and a box, in shape of + a lady's work-box, prettily coloured in divers patters with minute beads, + by her side. Her councillors were in attendance; and in the yard a band of + music, with many minor Wakungu squatting in a semicircle, completed her + levee. Maula on my behalf opened conversation, in allusion to her + yesterday's question, by saying I had applied to Mtesa for a palace, that + I might be near enough both their majesties to pay them constant visits. + She replied, in a good hearty manner, that indeed was a very proper + request, which showed my good sense, and ought to have been complied with + at once; but Mtesa was only a Kijana or stripling, and as she influenced + all the government of the country, she would have it carried into effect. + Compliments were now passed, my presents given and approved of; and the + queen, thinking I must be hungry, for she wanted to eat herself, requested + me to refresh myself in another hut. I complied, spread my bedding, and + ordered in my breakfast; but as the hut was full of men, I suspended a + Scotch plain, and quite eclipsed her mbugu curtain. + </p> + <p> + Reports of this magnificence at once flew to the queen, who sent to know + how many more blankets I had in my possession, and whether, if she asked + for one, she would get it. She also desired to see my spoons, fork, and + pipe—an English meerschaum, mounted with silver; so, after + breakfast, I returned to see her, showed her the spoons and forks, and + smoked my pipe, but told her I had no blankets left but what formed my + bed. She appeared very happy and very well, did not say another word about + the blankets, but ordered a pipe for herself, and sat chatting, laughing, + and smoking in concert with me. + </p> + <p> + I told her I had visited all the four quarters of the globe, and had seen + all colours of people, but wondered where she got her pipe from, for it + was much after the Rumish (Turkish) fashion, with a long stick. Greatly + tickled at the flattery, she said, "We hear men like yourself come to + Amara from the other side, and drive cattle away." "The Gallas, or + Abyssinians, who are tall and fair, like Rumanika," I said, "might do so, + for they live not far off on the other side of Amara, but we never fight + for such paltry objects. If cows fall into our hands when fighting, we + allow our soldiers to eat them, while we take the government of the + country into our hands." She then said, "We hear you don't like the + Unyamuezi route, we will open the Ukori one for you." "Thank your + majesty," said I, in a figurative kind of speech to please Waganda ears; + and turning the advantage of the project on her side, "You have indeed hit + the right nail on the head. I do not like the Unyamuezi route, as you may + imagine when I tell you I have lost so much property there by mere robbery + of the people and their kings. The Waganda do not see me in a true light; + but if they have patience for a year or two, until the Ukori road is open, + and trade between our respective countries shall commence, they will then + see the fruits of my advent; so much so, that every Mganda will say the + first Uganda year dates from the arrival of the first Mzundu (white) + visitor. As one coffee-seed sown brings forth fruit in plenty, so my + coming here may be considered." All appreciated this speech, saying, "The + white man, he even speaks beautifully! beautifully! beautifully! + beautifully!" and, putting their hands to their mouths, they looked + askance at me, nodding their admiring approval. + </p> + <p> + The queen and her ministers then plunged into pombe and became uproarious, + laughing with all their might and main. Small bugu cups were not enough to + keep up the excitement of the time, so a large wooden trough was placed + before the queen and filled with liquor. If any was spilt, the Wakungu + instantly fought over it, dabbing their noses on the ground, or grabbing + it with their hands, that not one atom of the queen's favour might be + lost; for everything must be adored that comes from royalty, whether by + design or accident. The queen put her head to the trough and drank like a + pig from it, and was followed by her ministers. The band, by order, then + struck up a tune called the Milele, playing on a dozen reeds, ornamented + with beads and cow-tips, and five drums, of various tones and sizes, + keeping time. The musicians dancing with zest, were led by four + bandmasters, also dancing, but with their backs turned to the company to + show off their long, shaggy, goat-skin jackets, sometimes upright, at + other times bending and on their heels, like the hornpipe-dancers or + western countries. + </p> + <p> + It was a merry scene, but soon became tiresome; when Bombay, by way of + flattery, and wishing to see what the queen's wardrobe embraced, told her, + Any woman, however ugly, would assume a goodly appearance if prettily + dressed; upon which her gracious majesty immediately rose, retired to her + toilet-hut, and soon returned attired in a common check cloth, and abrus + tiara, a bead necklace, and with a folding looking-glass, when she sat, as + before, and was handed a blown-glass cup of pombe, with a cork floating on + the liquor, and a napkin mbugu covering the top, by a naked virgin. For + her kind condescension in assuming plain raiment, everybody, of course, + n'yanzigged. Next she ordered her slave girls to bring a large number of + sambo (anklets), and begged me to select the best, for she liked me much. + In vain I tried to refuse them: she had given more than enough for a + keepsake before, and I was not hungry for property; still I had to choose + some, or I would give offence. She then gave me a basket of tobacco, and a + nest of hen eggs for her "son's" breakfast. When this was over, the + Mukonderi, another dancing-tune, with instruments something like + clarionets, was ordered; but it had scarcely been struck up, before a + drenching rain, with strong wind, set in and spoilt the music, though not + the playing—for none dared stop without an order; and the queen, + instead of taking pity, laughed most boisterously over the exercise of her + savage power as the unfortunate musicians were nearly beaten down by the + violence of the weather. + </p> + <p> + When the rain ceased, her majesty retired a second time to her toilet-hut, + and changed her dress for a puce-coloured wrapper, when I, ashamed of + having robbed her of so many sambo, asked her if she would allow me to + present her with a little English "wool" to hang up instead of her mbugu + curtain on cold days like this. Of course she could not decline, and a + large double scarlet blanket was placed before her. "Oh, wonder of + wonders!" exclaimed all the spectators, holding their mouths in both hands + at a time—such a "pattern" had never been seen here before. It + stretched across the hut, was higher than the men could reach—indeed + it was a perfect marvel; and the man must be a good one who brought such a + treasure as this to Uddu. "And why not say Uganda?" I asked. "Because all + this country is called Uddu. Uganda is personified by Mtesa; and no one + can say he has seen Uganda until he has been presented to the king." + </p> + <p> + As I had them all in a good humour now, I complained I did not see enough + of the Waganda—and as every one dressed so remarkably well, I could + not discern the big men from the small; could she not issue some order by + which they might call on me, as they did not dare do so without + instruction, and then I, in turn, would call on them? Hearing this, she + introduced me to her prime minister, chancellor of exchequer, + women-keepers, hangmen, and cooks, as the first nobles in the land, that I + might recognise them again if I met them on the road. All n'yanzigged for + this great condescension, and said they were delighted with their guest; + then producing a strip of common joho to compare it with my blanket, they + asked if I could recognise it. Of course, said I, it is made in my + country, of the same material, only of coarser quality, and everything of + the same sort is made in Uzungu. Then, indeed, said the whole company, in + one voice, we do like you, and your cloth too—but you most. I + modestly bowed my head, and said their friendship was my chief desire. + </p> + <p> + This speech also created great hilarity; the queen and councillors all + became uproarious. The queen began to sing, and the councillors to join in + chorus; then all sang and all drank, and drank and sang, till, in their + heated excitement, they turned the palace into a pandemonium; still there + was not noise enough, so the band and drums were called again, and tomfool—for + Uganda, like the old European monarchies, always keeps a jester—was + made to sing in the gruff, hoarse, unnatural voice which he ever affects + to maintain his character, and furnished with pombe when his throat was + dry. + </p> + <p> + Now all of a sudden, as if a devil had taken possession of the company, + the prime minister with all the courtiers jumped upon their legs, seized + their sticks, for nobody can carry a spear when visiting, swore the queen + had lost her heart to me, and running into the yard, returned, charging + and jabbering at the queen; retreated and returned again, as if they were + going to put an end to her for the guilt of loving me, but really to show + their devotion and true love to her. The queen professed to take this + ceremony with calm indifference, but her face showed that she enjoyed it. + I was not getting very tired of sitting on my low stool, and begged for + leave to depart, but N'yamasore would not hear of it; she loved me a great + deal too much to let me go away at this time of day, and forthwith ordered + in more pombe. The same roystering scene was repeated; cups were too + small, so the trough was employed; and the queen graced it by drinking, + pig-fashion, first, and then handing it round to the company. + </p> + <p> + Now, hoping to produce gravity and then to slip away, I asked if my + medicines had given her any relief, that I might give her more to + strengthen her. She said she could not answer that question just yet; for + though the medicine had moved her copiously, as yet she had seen no snake + depart from her. I told her I would give her some strengthening medicine + in the morning: for the present, however, I would take my leave, as the + day was far gone, and the distance home very great; but though I dragged + my body away, my heart would still remain here, for I loved her much. + </p> + <p> + This announcement took all by surprise; they looked at me and then at her, + and looked again and laughed, whilst I rose, waved my hat, and said, "Kua + heri, Bibi" (good-bye, madam). On reaching home I found Maribu, a Mkungu, + with a gang of men sent by Mtesa to fetch Grant from Kitangule by water. + He would not take any of my men with him to fetch the kit from Karague, as + Mtesa, he said, had given him orders to find all the means of transport; + so I gave him a letter to Grant, and told him to look sharp, else Grant + would have passed the Kitangule before he arrived there. "Never mind," + says Maribu, "I shall walk to the mouth of the Katonga, boat it to Sese + island, where Mtesa keeps all his large vessels, and I shall be at + Kitangule in a very short time." + </p> + <p> + 4th.—I sent Bombay off to administer quinine to the queen; but the + king's pages, who watched him making for her gateway, hurried up to him, + and turned him back by force. He pleaded earnestly that I would flog him + if he disobeyed my orders, but they would take all the responsibility—the + king had ordered it; and then they, forging a lie, bade him run back as + fast as he could, saying I wanted to see the king, but could not till his + return. In this way poor Bombay returned to me half-drowned in + perspiration. Just then another page hurried in with orders to bring me to + the palace at once, for I had not been there these four days; and while I + was preparing to express the proper amount of indignation at this + unceremonious message, the last impudent page began rolling like a pig + upon my mbugued or carpeted floor, till I stormed and swore I would turn + him out unless he chose to behave more respectfully before my majesty, for + I was no peddling merchant, as he had been accustomed to see, and would + not stand it; moreover, I would not leave my hut at the summons of the + king or anybody else, until I chose to do so. + </p> + <p> + This expression of becoming wrath brought every one to a sense of his + duty; and I then told them all I was excessively angry with Mtesa for + turning back my messenger; nobody had ever dared do such a thing before, + and I would never forgive the king until my medicines had been given to + the queen. As for my going to the palace, it was out of the question, as I + had been repeatedly before told the king, unless it pleased him to give me + a fitting residence near himself. In order now that full weight should be + given to my expressions, I sent Bombay with the quinine to the king, in + company with the boys, to give an account of all that had happened; and + further, to say I felt exceedingly distressed I could not go to see him + constantly—that I was ashamed of my domicile—the sun was hot + to walk in; and when I went to the palace, his officers in waiting always + kept me waiting like a servant—a matter hurtful to my honour and + dignity. It now rested with himself to remove these obstacles. Everybody + concerned in this matter left for the palace but Maula, who said he must + stop in camp to look after Bana. Bombay no sooner arrived in the palace, + and saw the king upon his throne, than Mtesa asked him why he came? "By + the instructions of Bana," was his reply—"for Bana cannot walk in + the sun; no white man of the sultan's breed can do so." + </p> + <p> + Hearing this, the king rose in a huff, without deigning to reply, and + busied himself in another court. Bombay, still sitting, waited for hours + till quite tired, when he sent a boy in to say he had not delivered half + my message; he had brought medicine for the queen, and as yet he had no + reply for Bana. Either with haughty indifference, or else with injured + pride at his not being able to command me at his pleasure, the king sent + word, if medicine is brought for the queen, then let it be taken to her; + and so Bombay walked off to the queen's palace. Arrived there, he sent in + to say he had brought medicine, and waited without a reply till nightfall, + when, tired of his charge, he gave the quinine into N'yamgundu's hands for + delivery, and returned home. Soon after, however, N'yamgundu also returned + to say the queen would not take the dose to-day, but hoped I would + administer it personally in the morning. + </p> + <p> + Whilst all this vexations business had been going on in court—evidently + dictated by extreme jealousy because I showed, as they all thought, a + preference for the queen—Maula, more than tipsy, brought a Mkungu of + some standing at court before me, contrary to all law—for as yet no + Mganda, save the king's pages, had ever dared enter even the precincts of + my camp. With a scowling, determined, hang-dog-looking countenance, he + walked impudently into my hut, and taking down the pombe-suckers the queen + had given me, showed them with many queer gesticulations, intended to + insinuate there was something between the queen and me. Among his jokes + were, that I must never drink pombe excepting with these sticks; if I + wanted any when I leave Uganda, to show my friends, she would give me + twenty more sticks of that sort if I liked them; and, turning from verbal + to practical jocularity, the dirty fellow took my common sucker out of the + pot, inserted one of the queen's, and sucked at it himself, when I + snatched and threw it away. + </p> + <p> + Maula's friend, who, I imagined, was a spy, then asked me whom I liked + most—the mother or the son; but, without waiting to hear me, Maula + hastily said, "The mother, the mother of course! he does not care for + Mtesa, and won't go to see him." The friend coaxingly responded, "Oh no; + he likes Mtesa, and will go and see him too; won't you?" I declined, + however, to answer from fear of mistake, as both interpreters were away. + Still the two went on talking to themselves, Maula swearing that I loved + the mother most, whilst the friend said, No, he loves the son, and asking + me with anxious looks, till they found I was not to be caught by chaff, + and then, both tired, walked away—the friend advising me, next time + I went to court, to put on an Arab's gown, as trousers are indecent in the + estimation of every Mganda. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—Alarmed at having got involved in something that looked like + court intrigues, I called up N'yamgundu; told him all that happened + yesterday, both at the two courts and with Maula at home; and begged him + to apply to the king for a meeting of five elders, that a proper + understanding might be arrived at; but instead of doing as I desired, he + got into a terrible fright, calling Maula, and told me if I pressed the + matter in this way men would lose their lives. Meanwhile the cunning + blackguard Maula begged for pardon; said I quite misunderstood his + meaning; all he had said was that I was very fortunate, being in such + favour at court, for the king and queen both equally loved me. + </p> + <p> + N'yamgundu now got orders to go to Karague overland for Dr K'yengo; but, + dreading to tell me of it, as I had been so kind to him, he forged a + falsehood, said he had leave to visit his home for six days, and begged + for a wire to sacrifice to his church. I gave him what he wanted, and away + he went. I then heard his servants had received orders to go overland for + Grant and K'yengo; so I wrote another note to Grant, telling him to come + sharp, and bring all the property by boat that he could carry, leaving + what he could not behind in charge of Rumanika. + </p> + <p> + At noon, the plaguy little imps of pages hurried in to order the + attendance of all my men fully armed before the king, as he wished to + seize some refractory officer. I declined this abuse of my arms, and said + I should first go and speak to the king on the subject myself, ordering + the men on no account to go on such an errand; and saying this, I + proceeded towards the palace, leaving instructions for those men who were + not ready to follow. As the court messengers, however, objected to our + going in detachments, I told Bombay to wait for the rest, and hurry on to + overtake me. Whilst lingering on the way, every minute expecting to see my + men, the Wazinza, who had also received orders to seize the same officer, + passed me, going to the place of attack, and, at the same time, I heard my + men firing in a direction exactly opposite to the palace. I now saw I had + been duped, and returned to my hut to see the issue. The boys had deceived + us all. Bombay, tricked on the plea of their taking him by a short cut to + the palace, suddenly found himself with all the men opposite the fenced + gardens that had to be taken—the establishment of the recusant + officer,—and the boys, knowing how eager all blacks are to loot, + said, "Now, then, at the houses; seize all you can, sparing nothing—men, + women, or children, mbugus or cowries, all alike—for it is the order + of the king;" and in an instant my men surrounded the place, fired their + guns, and rushed upon the inmates. One was speared forcing his way through + the fence, but the rest were taken and brought triumphantly into my camp. + It formed a strange sight in the establishment of an English gentleman, to + see my men flushed with the excitement of their spoils, staggering under + loads of mbugu, or leading children, mothers, goats, and dogs off in + triumph to their respective huts. Bombay alone, of all my men, obeyed my + orders, touching nothing; and when remonstrated with for having lead the + men, he said he could not help it—the boys had deceived him in the + same way as they had tricked me. + </p> + <p> + It was now necessary that I should take some critical step in African + diplomacy; so, after ordering all the seizures to be given up to Maula on + behalf of the king, and threatening to discharge any of my men who dared + retain one item of the property, I shut the door of my hut to do penance + for two days, giving orders that nobody but my cook Ilmas, not even + Bombay, should come near me; for the king had caused my men to sin—had + disgraced their red cloth—and had inflicted on me a greater insult + than I could bear. I was ashamed to show my face. Just as the door was + closed, other pages from the king brought the Whitworth rifle to be + cleaned, and demanded an admittance; but no one dared approach me, and + they went on their way again. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—I still continued to do penance. Bombay, by my orders, issued + from within, prepared for a visit to the king, to tell him all that had + happened yesterday, and also to ascertain if the orders for sending my men + on a plundering mission had really emanated from himself, when the + bothering pages came again, bringing a gun and knife to be mended. My door + was found shut, so they went to Bombay, asked him to do it, and told him + the king desired to know if I would go shooting with him in the morning. + The reply was, "No; Bana is praying to-day that Mtesa's sins might be + forgiven him for having committed such an injury to him, sending his + soldiers on a mission that did not become them, and without his sanction + too. He is very angry about it, and wished to know if it was done by the + king's orders." The boys said, "Nothing can be done without the king's + orders." After further discussion, Bombay intimated that I wished the king + to send me a party of five elderly officers to counsel with, and set all + disagreeables to rights, or I would not go to the palace again; but the + boys said there were no elderly gentlemen at court, only boys such as + themselves. Bombay now wished to go with them before the king, to explain + matters to him, and to give him all the red cloths of my men, which I took + from them, because they defiled their uniform when plundering women and + children; but the boys said the king was unapproachable just them, being + engaged shooting cows before his women. He then wished the boys to carry + the cloth; but they declined, saying it was contrary to orders for anybody + to handle cloth, and they could not do it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII. Palace, Uganda—Continued + </h2> + <p> + Continued Diplomatic Difficulties—Negro Chaffing—The King in a + New Costume—Adjutant and Heron Shooting at Court—My Residence + Changed—Scenes at Court—The Kamraviona, or Commander-in-Chief—Quarrels—Confidential + Communications with the King—Court Executions and Executioners—Another + Day with the Queen. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—The farce continued, and how to manage these haughty capricious + blacks puzzled my brains considerably; but I felt that if I did not stand + up now, no one would ever be treated better hereafter. I sent Nasib to the + queen, to explain why I had not been to see her. I desired to do so, + because I admired her wisdom; but before I went I must first see the king, + to provide against any insult being offered to me, such as befell Bombay + when I sent him with medicine. Having despatched him, I repaired again to + the palace. In the antechamber I found a number of Wakungu, as usual, + lounging about on the ground, smoking, chatting, and drinking pombe, + whilst Wasoga amused them singing and playing on lap-harps, and little + boys kept time on the harmonicon. + </p> + <p> + These Wakungu are naturally patient attendants, being well trained to the + duty; but their very lives depend upon their presenting themselves at + court a certain number of months every year, no matter from what distant + part of the country they have to come. If they failed, their estates would + be confiscated, and their lives taken unless they could escape. I found a + messenger who consented to tell the king of my desire to see him. He + returned to say that the king was sleeping—a palpable falsehood. In + a huff, I walked home to breakfast, leaving my attendants, Maula and + Uledi, behind to make explanations. They saw the king, who simply asked, + "Where is Bana?" And on being told that I came, but went off again, he + said, as I was informed, "That is a lie, for had he come here to see me he + would not have returned"; then rising, he walked away and left the men to + follow me. + </p> + <p> + I continued ruminating on these absurd entanglements, and the best way of + dealing with them, when lo! to perplex me still more, in ran a bevy of the + royal pages to ask for mtende beads—a whole sack of them; for the + king wished to go with his women on a pilgrimage to the N'yanza. Thinking + myself very lucky to buy the king's ear so cheaply, I sent Maula as + before, adding that I considered my luck very bad, as nobody here knew my + position in society, else they would not treat me as they did. My proper + sphere was the palace, and unless I got a hut there, I wished to leave the + country. My first desire had always been to see the king; and if he went + to the N'yanza, I trusted he would allow me to go there also. The boys + replied, "How can you go with his women? No one ever is permitted to see + them." "Well," said I, "if I cannot go to the N'yanza with him" (thinking + only of the great lake, whereas they probably meant a pond in the palace + enclosures, where Mtesa constantly frolics with his women), "I wish to go + to Usoga and Amara, as far as the Masai; for I have no companions here but + crows and vultures." They promised to take the message, but its delivery + was quite another thing; for no one can speak at this court till he is + spoken to, and a word put in out of season is a life lost. + </p> + <p> + On Maula's return, I was told the king would not believe so generous a man + as Bana could have sent him so few beads; he believed most of my store + must have been stolen on the road, and would ask me about that to-morrow. + He intimated that for the future I must fire a gun at the waiting-hut + whenever I entered the palace, so that he might hear of my arrival, for he + had been up that morning, and would have been glad to see me, only the + boys, from fear of entering his cabinet, had forged a lie, and deprived + him of any interview with me, which he had long wished to get. This ready + cordiality was as perplexing as all the rest. Could it be possible, I + thought, I had been fighting with a phantom all this while, and yet the + king had not been able to perceive it? At all events, now, as the key to + his door had been given, I would make good use of it and watch the result. + Meanwhile Nasib returned from the queen-dowager's palace without having + seen her majesty, though he had waited there patiently the whole day long, + for she was engaged in festivities, incessantly drumming and playing, in + consequence of the birth of twins (Mabassa), which had just taken place in + her palace; but he was advised to return on the morrow. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—After breakfast I walked to the palace, thinking I had gained + all I wanted; entered, and fired guns, expecting an instant admittance; + but, as usual, I was required to sit and wait; the king was expected + immediately. All the Wagungu talked in whispers, and nothing was heard but + the never-ceasing harps and harmonicons. In a little while I felt tired of + the monotony, and wished to hang up a curtain, that I might lie down in + privacy and sleep till the king was ready; but the officers in waiting + forbade this, as contrary to law, and left me the only alternative of + walking up and down the court to kill time, spreading my umbrella against + the powerful rays of the sun. A very little of that made me fidgety and + impetuous, which the Waganda noticed, and, from fear of the consequences, + they began to close the gate to prevent my walking away. I flew out on + them, told Bombay to notice the disrespect, and shamed them into opening + it again. The king immediately, on hearing of this, sent me pombe to keep + me quiet; but as I would not touch it, saying I was sick at heart, another + page rushed out to say the king was ready to receive me; and, opening a + side gate leading into a small open court without a hut in it, there, to + be sure, was his majesty, sitting on an Arab's donkey run, propped against + one page, and encompassed by four others. + </p> + <p> + On confronting him, he motioned me to sit, which I did upon my bundle of + grass, and, finding it warm, asked leave to open my umbrella. He was much + struck at the facility with which I could make shade, but wondered still + more at my requiring it. I explained to him that my skin was white because + I lived in a colder country than his, and therefore was much more + sensitive to the heat of the sun than his black skin; adding, at the same + time, if it gave no offence, I would prefer sitting in the shade of the + court fence. He had no objection, and opened conversation by asking who it + was that gave me such offence in taking my guard from me to seize his + Wakungu. The boy who had provoked me was then dragged in, tied by his neck + and hands, when the king asked him by whose orders he had acted in such a + manner, knowing that I objected to it, and wished to speak to him on the + subject first. The poor boy, in a dreadful fright, said he had acted under + the instructions of the Kamraviona: there was no harm done, for Bana's men + were not hurt. "Well, then," said the king, "if they were not injured, and + you only did as you were ordered, no fault rests with you; but begone out + of my sight, for I cannot bear to see you, and the Kamraviona shall be + taught a lesson not to meddle with my guests again until I give him + authority to do so." + </p> + <p> + I now hoped, as I had got the king all by himself, and apparently in a + good humour with me, that I might give him a wholesome lesson on the + manners and customs of the English nation, to show how much I felt the + slights I had received since my residence in Uganda; but he never lost his + dignity and fussiness as an Uganda king. My words must pass through his + Mkungu, as well as my interpreter's, before they reached him; and, as he + had no patience, everything was lost till he suddenly asked Maula, + pretending not to know, where my hut was; why everybody said I lived so + far away; and when told, he said, "Oh! that is very far, he must come + nearer." Still I could not say a word, his fussiness and self-importance + overcoming his inquisitiveness. + </p> + <p> + Rain now fell, and the king retired by one gate, whilst I was shown out of + another, until the shower was over. As soon as the sky was clear again, we + returned to the little court, and this time became more confidential, as + he asked many questions about England—such as, Whether the Queen + knew anything about medicines? Whether she kept a number of women as he + did? and what her palace was like?—which gave me an opportunity of + saying I would like to see his ships, for I heard they were very numerous—and + also his menagerie, said to be full of wonderful animals. He said the + vessels were far off, but he would send for them; and although he once + kept a large number of animals, he killed them all in practising with his + guns. The Whitworth rifle was then brought in for me to take to pieces and + teach him the use of; and then the chronometer. He then inquired if I + would like to go shooting? I said, "Yes, if he would accompany me—not + otherwise." "Hippopotami?" "Yes; there is great fun in that, for they + knock the boats over when they charge from below." "Can you swim?" "Yes." + "So can I. And would you like to shoot buffalo?" "Yes, if you will go." + "At night, then, I will send my keepers to look out for them. Here is a + leopard-car, with white behind its ears, and a Ndezi porcupine of the + short-quilled kind, which my people eat with great relish; and if you are + fond of animals, I will give you any number of specimens, for my keepers + net and bring in live animals of every kind daily; for the present, you + can take this basket of porcupines home for your dinner." My men + n'yanzigged—the king walked away, giving orders for another officer + to follow up the first who went to Ukori, and bring Petherick quickly—and + I went home. + </p> + <p> + This was to be a day of varied success. When I arrived at my hut I found a + messenger sent by the queen, with a present of a goat, called "fowls for + Bana, my son," and a load of plantains, called potatoes, waiting for me; + so I gave the bearer fundo of mtende beads, and told again the reasons why + I had not been able to call upon the queen, but I hoped to do so shortly, + as the king had promised me a house near at hand. I doubt, however, + whether one word of my message ever reached her. That she wanted me at her + palace was evident by the present, though she was either too proud or too + cautious to say so. + </p> + <p> + At night I overheard a chat between Sangizo, a Myamuezi, and Ntalo, a + freed man of Zanzibar, very characteristic of their way of chaffing. + Sangizo opened the battle by saying, "Ntalo, who are you?" N. "A Mguana" + (freed man). S. "A Mguana, indeed! then where is your mother?" N. "She + died at Anguja." S. "Your mother died at Anguja! then where is your + father?" N. "He died at Anguja likewise." S. "Well, that is strange; and + where are your brothers and sister?" N. "They all died at Anguja." S. + (then changing the word Anguja for Anguza, says to Ntalo) "I think you + said your mother and father both died at Anguza, did you not?" N. "Yes, at + Anguza." S. "Then you had two mothers and two fathers—one set died + at Anguja, and the other set at Anguza; you are a humbug; I don't believe + you; you are no Mguana, but a slave who has been snatched from his family, + and does not know where any of his family are. Ah! ah! ah!" And all the + men of the camp laugh together at the wretched Ntalo's defeat; but Ntalo + won't be done, so retorts by saying, "Sangizo, you may laugh at me because + I am an orphan, but what are you? you are a savage—a Mshezi; you + come from the Mashenzi, and you wear skins, not cloths, as men do; so hold + your impudent tongue";—and the camp pealed with merry boisterous + laughter again. + </p> + <p> + 9th.—Early in the morning, and whilst I was in bed, the king sent + his pages to request me to visit his royal mother, with some specific for + the itch, with which her majesty was then afflicted. I said I could not go + so far in the sun; I would wait till I received the promised palace near + her. In the meanwhile I prepared to call on him. I observed, in fact, that + I was an object of jealousy between the two courts, and that, if I acted + skilfully and decidedly, I might become master of the situation, and + secure my darling object of a passage northwards. The boys returned, + bringing a pistol to be cleaned, and a message to say it was no use my + thinking of calling on the king—that I must go to the queen + immediately, for she was very ill. So far the queen won the day, but I did + not obtain my new residence, which I considered the first step to + accomplishing the greater object; I therefore put the iron farther in the + fire by saying I was no man's slave, and I should not go until I got a + house in the palace—Bombay could teach the boys the way to clean the + pistol. The perk monkeys, however, turned up their noses at such menial + service, and Uledi was instructed in their stead. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—To surprise the queen, and try another dodge, I called on her + with all my dining things and bedding, to make a day of it, and sleep the + night. She admitted me at once, when I gave her quinine, on the proviso + that I should stop there all day and night to repeat the dose, and tell + her the reason why I did not come before. She affected great anger at + Mtesa having interfered with my servants when coming to see her—sympathised + with me on the distance I had to travel—ordered a hut to be cleared + for me ere night—told me to eat my breakfast in the next court—and, + rising abruptly, walked away. At noon we heard the king approaching with + his drums and rattle-traps, but I still waited on till 5 p.m., when, on + summons, I repaired to the throne-hut. Here I heard, in an adjoining + court, the boisterous, explosive laughs of both mother and son—royal + shouts loud enough to be heard a mile off, and inform the community that + their sovereigns were pleased to indulge in hilarity. Immediately + afterwards, the gate between us being thrown open, the king, like a very + child, stood before us, dressed for the first time, in public, in what + Europeans would call clothes. For a cap he wore a Muscat alfia, on his + neck a silk Arab turban, fastened with a ring. Then for a coat he had an + Indian kizbow, and for trousers a yellow woollen doti; whilst in his hand, + in imitation of myself, he kept running his ramrod backwards and forwards + through his fingers. As I advanced and doffed my hat, the king, smiling, + entered the court, followed by a budding damsel dressed in red bindera, + who carried the chair I had presented to him, and two new spears. + </p> + <p> + He now took his seat for the first time upon the chair, for I had told + him, at my last interview, that all kings were expected to bring out some + new fashion, or else the world would never make progress; and I was + directed to sit before him on my grass throne. Talking, though I longed to + enter into conversation, was out of the question; for no one dared speak + for me, and I could not talk myself; so we sat and grinned, till in a few + minutes the queen, full of smirks and smiles, joined us, and sat on a + mbugu. I offered the medicine-chest as a seat, but she dared not take it; + in fact, by the constitution of Uganda, no one, however high in rank, not + even his mother, can sit before the king. After sundry jokes, whilst we + were all bursting with laughter at the theatrical phenomenon, the Wakungu + who were present, some twenty in number, threw themselves in line upon + their bellies, and wriggling like fish, n'yanzigged, n'goned, and demaned, + and uttered other wonderful words of rejoining—as, for instance, + "Hai Minange! Hai Mkama wangi!" (O my chief! O my king!)—whilst they + continued floundering, kicking about their legs, rubbing their faces, and + patting their hands upon the ground, as if the king had performed some act + of extraordinary munificence by showing himself to them in that strange + and new position—a thing quite enough to date a new Uganda era from. + </p> + <p> + The king, without deigning to look upon his grovelling subjects, said, + "Now, mother, take your medicine"; for he had been called solemnly to + witness the medical treatment she was undergoing at my hands. When she had + swallowed her quinine with a wry face, two very black virgins appeared on + the stage holding up the double red blanket I had given the queen; for + nothing, however trifling, can be kept secret from the king. The whole + court was in raptures. The king signified his approval by holding his + mouth, putting his head on one side, and looking askance at it. The queen + looked at me, then at the blanket and her son in turn; whilst my men hung + down their heads, fearful lest they should be accused of looking at the + ladies of the court; and the Wakungu n'yanzigged again, as if they could + not contain the gratification they felt at the favour shown them. Nobody + had ever brought such wonderful things to Uganda before, and all loved + Bana. + </p> + <p> + Till now I had expected to vent my wrath on both together for all past + grievances, but this childish, merry, homely scene—the mother + holding up her pride, her son, before the state officers—melted my + heart at once. I laughed as well as they did, and said it pleased me + excessively to see them both so happy together. It was well the king had + broken through the old-fashioned laws of Uganda, by sitting on an iron + chair, and adopting European dresses; for now he was opening a road to + cement his own dominions with my country. I should know what things to + send that would please him. The king listened, but without replying; and + said, at the conclusion, "It is late, now let us move"; and walked away, + preserving famously the lion's gait. The mother also vanished, and I was + led away to a hut outside, prepared for my night's residence. It was a + small, newly-built hut, just large enough for my bed, with a corner for + one servant; so I turned all my men away, save one—ate my dinner, + and hoped to have a quiet cool night of it, when suddenly Maula flounced + in with all his boys, lighting a fire, and they spread their mbugus for + the night. In vain I pleaded I could not stand the suffocation of so many + men, especially of Waganda, who eat raw plantains; and unless they turned + out, I should do so, to benefit by the pure air. Maula said he had the + queen's orders to sleep with Bana, and sleep there he would; so rather + than kick him out, which I felt inclined to do, I smoked my pipe and drank + pombe all night, turning the people out and myself in, in the morning, to + prepare for a small house-fight with the queen. + </p> + <p> + 11th.—Early in the morning, as I expected, she demanded my immediate + attendance; and so the little diplomatic affair I had anticipated came on. + I began the affair by intimating that I am in bed, and have not + breakfasted. So at 10 a.m. another messenger arrives, to say her majesty + is much surprised at my not coming. What can such conduct mean, when she + arranged everything so nicely for me after my own desire, that she might + drink her medicine properly? Still I am not up; but nobody will let me + rest for fear of the queen; so, to while away the time, I order Bombay to + call upon her, give the quinine, and tell her all that has happened; at + which she flies into a towering rage, says she will never touch medicine + administered by any other hands but mine, and will not believe in one word + Bombay says, either about Maula or the hut; for Maula, whose duty + necessarily obliged him to take my servants before her majesty, had primed + her with a lot of falsehoods on the subject; and she had a fondness for + Maula, because he was a clever humbug and exceeding rogue—and sent + Bombay back to fetch me, for nobody had ever dared disobey her mandates + before. + </p> + <p> + It had now turned noon, and being ready for the visit, I went to see the + queen. Determined to have her turn, she kept me waiting for a long time + before she would show herself; and at last, when she came, she flounced up + to her curtain, lay down in a huff, and vented her wrath, holding her head + very high, and wishing to know how I could expect officers, with large + establishments, to be turned out of their homes merely to give me room for + one night; I ought to have been content with my fare; it was no fault of + Maula's. I tried to explain through Nasib, but she called Nasib a liar, + and listened to Maula who told the lies; then asked for her medicine; + drank it, saying it was a small dose; and walked off in ill humour as she + had come. I now made up my mind to sit till 3 p.m., hoping to see the + queen again, whilst talking with some Kidi officers, who, contrary to the + general law of the country, indulged me with some discourses on geography, + from which I gathered, though their stories were rather confused, that + beyond the Asua river, in the Galla country, there was another lake which + was navigated by the inhabitants in very large vessels; and somewhere in + the same neighbourhood there was an exceedingly high mountain covered with + yellow dust, which the natives collected, etc., etc. + </p> + <p> + Time was drawing on, and as the queen would not appear of her own accord, + I sent to request a friendly conversation with her before I left, + endeavouring, as well as I could, to persuade her that the want of + cordiality between us was owing to the mistakes of interpreters, who had + not conveyed to her my profound sentiments of devotion. This brought her + gracious corpulence out all smirks and smiles, preceded by a basket of + potatoes for "Bana, my son." I began conversation with a speech of + courtesy, explaining how I had left my brother Grant and my great friend + Rumanika at Karague—hastening, in compliance with the invitation of + the king, to visit him and herself, with the full hope of making friends + in Uganda; but now I had come, I was greatly disappointed; for I neither + saw half enough of their majesties, nor did any of their officers ever + call upon me to converse and pass away the dreary hours. All seemed highly + pleased, and complimented my speech; while the queen, turning to her + officers, said, "If that is the case, I will send these men to you"; + whereupon the officers, highly delighted at the prospect of coming to see + me, and its consequence a present, n'yanzigged until I thought their hands + would drop off. Then her majesty to my thorough annoyance, and before I + had finished half I had to say, rose from her seat, and, showing her broad + stern to the company, walked straight away. The officers then drew near + me, and begged I would sleep there another night; but as they had nothing + better to offer than the hut of last night, I declined and went my way, + begging them to call and make friends with me. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—Immediately after breakfast the king sent his pages in a great + hurry to say he was waiting on the hill for me, and begged I would bring + all my guns immediately. I prepared, thinking, naturally enough, that some + buffaloes had been marked down; for the boys, as usual, were perfectly + ignorant of his designs. To my surprise, however, when I mounted the hill + half-way to the palace, I found the king standing, dressed in a rich + filagreed waistcoat, trimmed with gold embroidery, tweedling the + loading-rod in his fingers, and an alfia cap on his head, whilst his pages + held his chair and guns, and a number of officers, with dogs and goats for + offerings, squatted before him. + </p> + <p> + When I arrived, hat in hand, he smiled, examined my firearms, and + proceeded for sport, leading the way to a high tree, on which some + adjutant birds were nesting, and numerous vultures resting. This was the + sport; Bana must shoot a nundo (adjutant) for the king's gratification. I + begged him to take a shot himself, as I really could not demean myself by + firing at birds sitting on a tree; but it was all of no use—no one + could shoot as I could, and they must be shot. I proposed frightening them + out with stones, but no stone could reach so high; so, to cut the matter + short, I killed an adjutant on the nest, and, as the vultures flew away, + brought one down on the wing, which fell in a garden enclosure. + </p> + <p> + The Waganda were for a minute all spell-bound with astonishment, when the + king jumped frantically in the air, clapping his hands above his head, and + singing out, "Woh, woh, woh! what wonders! Oh, Bana, Bana! what miracles + he performs!"—and all the Wakungu followed in chorus. "Now load, + Bana—load, and let us see you do it," cried the excited king; but + before I was half loaded, he said, "Come along, come along, and let us see + the bird." Then directing the officers which way to go—for, by the + etiquette of the court of Uganda, every one must precede the king—he + sent them through a court where his women, afraid of the gun, had been + concealed. Here the rush onward was stopped by newly made fences, but the + king roared to the officers to knock them down. This was no sooner said + than done, by the attendants in a body shoving on and trampling them + under, as an elephant would crush small trees to keep his course. So + pushing, floundering through plaintain and shrub, pell-mell one upon the + other, that the king's pace might not be checked, or any one come in for a + royal kick or blow, they came upon the prostrate bird. "Woh, woh, woh!" + cried the king again, "there he is, sure enough; come here, women—come + and look what wonders!" And all the women, in the highest excitement, + "woh-wohed" as loud as any of the men. But that was not enough. "Come + along, Bana," said the king, "we must have some more sport;" and, saying + this he directed the way towards the queen's palace, the attendants + leading, followed by the pages, then the king, next myself—for I + never would walk before him—and finally the women, some forty or + fifty, who constantly attended him. + </p> + <p> + To make the most of the king's good-humour, while I wanted to screen + myself from the blazing sun, I asked him if he would like to enjoy the + pleasures of an umbrella; and before he had time to answer, held mine over + him as we walked side by side. The Wakungu were astonished, and the women + prattled in great delight; whilst the king, hardly able to control + himself, sidled and spoke to his flatterers as if he were doubly created + monarch of all he surveyed. He then, growing more familiar, said, "Now, + Bana, do tell me—did you not shoot that bird with something more + than common ammunition? I am sure you did, now; there was magic in it." + And all I said to the contrary would not convince him. "But we will see + again." "At buffaloes?" I said. "No, the buffaloes are too far off now; we + will wait to go after then until I have given you a hut close by." + Presently, as some herons were flying overhead, he said, "Now, shoot, + shoot!" and I brought a couple down right and left. He stared, and + everybody stared, believing me to be a magician, when the king said he + would like to have pictures of the birds drawn and hung up in the palace; + "but let us go and shoot some more, for it is truly wonderful." Similar + results followed, for the herons were continually whirling round, as they + had their nests upon a neighbouring tree; and then the king ordered his + pages to carry all the birds, save the vulture—which, for some + reason, they did not touch—and show them to the queen. + </p> + <p> + He then gave the order to move on, and we all repaired to the palace. + Arrived at the usual throne-room, he took his seat, dismissed the party of + wives who had been following him, as well as the Wakungu, received pombe + from his female evil-eye averters, and ordered me, with my men, to sit in + the sun facing him, till I complained of the heat, and was allowed to sit + by his side. Kites, crows, and sparrows were flying about in all + directions, and as they came within shot, nothing would satisfy the + excited boy-king but I must shoot them, and his pages take them to the + queen, till my ammunition was totally expended. He then wanted me to send + for more shot; and as I told him he must wait for more until my brothers + come, he contented himself with taking two or three sample grains and + ordering his iron-smiths to make some like them. + </p> + <p> + Cows were now driven in for me to kill two with one bullet; but as the off + one jumped away when the gun fired, the bullet passed through the near + one, then through all the courts and fences, and away no one knew where. + The king was delighted, and said he must keep the rifle to look at for the + night. I now asked permission to speak with him on some important matters, + when he sent his women away and listened. I said I felt anxious about the + road on which Mabruki was travelling, to which I added that I had ordered + him to tell Petherick to come here or else to send property to the value + of one thousand dollars; and I felt anxious because some of the queen's + officers felt doubtful about Waganda being able to penetrate Kidi. He said + I need not concern myself on that score; he was much more anxious for the + white men to come here than even I was, and he would not send my men into + any danger; but it was highly improper for any of his people to speak + about such subjects. Then, assembling the women again, he asked me to load + Whitworth for him, when he shot the remaining cow, holding the rifle in + both hands close to his thigh. The feat, of course, brought forth great + and uproarious congratulations from his women. The day thus ended, and I + was dismissed. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—Mabriki and Bilal come into camp: they returned last night; + but the Waganda escort, afraid of my obtaining information of them before + the king received it, kept them concealed. They had been defeated in + Usoga, two marches each of Kira, at the residence of Nagozigombi, Mtesa's + border officer, who gave them two bullocks, but advised their returning at + once to inform the king that the independent Wasoga had been fighting with + his dependent Wasoga subjects for some time, and the battle would not be + over for two months or more, unless he sent an army to their assistance. + </p> + <p> + I now sent Bombay to the king to request an interview, as I had much of + importance to tell him; but the could not be seen, as he was deep in the + interior of the palace enjoying the society of his wives. The Kamraviona, + however, was found there waiting, as usual, on the mere chance of his + majesty taking it into his head to come out. He asked Bombay if it was + true the woman he gave me ran away; and when Bombay told him, he said, + "Oh, he should have chained her for two or three days, until she became + accustomed to her residence; for women often take fright and run away in + that way, believing strangers to be cannibals." But Bombay replied, "She + was not good enough for Bana; he let her go off like a dog; he wants a + young and beautiful Mhuma, or none at all." "Ah, well, then, if he is so + particular, he must wait a bit, for we have none on hand. What I gave him + is the sort of creature we give all our guests." A Msoga was sent by the + king to take the dead adjutant of yesterday out of the nest—for all + Wasoga are expert climbers, which is not the case with the Waganda; but + the man was attacked half-way up the tree by a swarm of bees, and driven + down again. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—After all the vexatious haggling for a house, I gained my + object to-day by a judicious piece of bribery which I had intended to + accomplish whenever I could. I now succeeded in sending—for I could + not, under the jealous eyes in Uganda, get it done earlier—a present + of fifteen pints mixed beads, twenty blue eggs, and five copper bracelets, + to the commander-in-chief, as a mark of friendship. At the same time I + hinted that I should like him to use his influence in obtaining for me a + near and respectable residence, where I hoped he, as well as all the + Waganda nobility, would call upon me; for my life in Uganda was utterly + miserable, being shut up like a hermit by myself every day. The result + was, that a number of huts in a large plantain garden were at once + assigned to me, on the face of a hill, immediately overlooking and close + to the main road. It was considered the "West End." It had never before + been occupied by any visitors excepting Wahinda ambassadors; and being + near, and in full view of the palace, was pleasant and advantageous, as I + could both hear the constant music, and see the throngs of people ever + wending their way to and from the royal abodes. I lost no time in moving + all my property, turning out the original occupants—in selecting the + best hut for myself, giving the rest to my three officers—and + ordering my men to build barracks for themselves, in street form, from my + hut to the main road. There was one thing only left to be done; the + sanitary orders of Uganda required every man to build himself a house of + parliament, such being the neat and cleanly nature of the Waganda—a + pattern to all other negro tribes. + </p> + <p> + 15th.—As nobody could obtain an interview with the king yesterday, I + went to the palace to-day, and fired three shots—a signal which was + at once answered from within by a double discharge of a gun I had just + lent him on his returning my rifle. In a little while, as soon as he had + time to dress, the king, walking like a lion, sallied forth, leading his + white dog, and beckoned me to follow him to the state hut, the court of + which was filled with squatting men as usual, well dressed, and keeping + perfect order. He planted himself on his throne, and begged me to sit by + his side. Then took place the usual scene of a court levee, as described + in Chapter X., with the specialty, in this instance, that the son of the + chief executioner—one of the highest officers of state—was led + off for execution, for some omission or informality in his n'yanzigs, or + salutes. + </p> + <p> + At this levee sundry Wakungu of rank complained that the Wanyambo + plundered their houses at night, and rough-handled their women, without + any respect for their greatness, and, when caught, said they were Bana's + men. Bombay, who was present, heard the complaint, and declared these were + Suwarora's men, who made use of the proximity of my camp to cover their + own transgressions. Then Suwarora's deputation, who were also present, + cringed forward, n'yanzigging like Waganda, and denied the accusation, + when the king gave all warning that he would find out the truth by placing + guards on the look-out at night. + </p> + <p> + Till this time the king had not heard one word about the defeat of the + party sent for Petherick. His kingdom might have been lost, and he would + have been no wiser; when the officer who led Mabruki came forward and told + him all that had happened, stating, in addition to what I heard before, + that they took eighty men with them, and went into battle three times + successfully. Dismissing business, however, the king turned to me, and + said he never saw anything so wonderful as my shooting in his life; he was + sure it was done by magic, as my gun never missed, and he wished I would + instruct him in the art. When I denied there was any art in shooting, + further than holding the gun straight, he shook his head, and getting me + to load his revolving pistol for him, he fired all five barrels into two + cows before the multitude. He then thought of adjutant-shooting with ball, + left the court sitting, desired me to follow him, and leading the way, + went into the interior of the palace, where only a few select officers + were permitted to follow us. The birds were wild, and as nothing was done, + I instructed him in the way to fire from his shoulder, placing the gun in + position. He was shy at first, and all the people laughed at my handling + royalty like a schoolboy; but he soon took to it very good-naturedly, when + I gave him my silk necktie and gold crest-ring, explaining their value, + which he could not comprehend, and telling him we gentlemen prided + ourselves on never wearing brass or copper. + </p> + <p> + He now begged hard for shot; but I told him again his only chance of + getting any lay in opening the road onwards; it was on this account, I + said, I had come to see him to-day. He answered, "I am going to send an + army to Usoga to force the way from where your men were turned back." But + this, I said, would not do for me, as I saw his people travelled like + geese, not knowing the direction of Gani, or where they were going to when + sent. I proposed that if he would call all his travelling men of + experience together, I would explain matters to them by a map I had + brought; for I should never be content till I saw Petherick. + </p> + <p> + The map was then produced. He seemed to comprehend it immediately, and + assembled the desired Wakungu; but, to my mortification, he kept all the + conversation to himself, Waganda fashion; spoke a lot of nonsense; and + then asked his men what they thought had better be done. The sages + replied, "Oh, make friends, and do the matter gently." But the king + proudly raised his head, laughed them to scorn, and said, "Make friends + with men who have crossed their spears with us already! Nonsense! they + would only laugh at us; the Uganda spear alone shall do it." Hearing this + bravado, the Kamraviona, the pages, and the elders, all rose to a man, + with their sticks, and came charging at their king, swearing they would + carry out his wished with their lives. The meeting now broke up in the + usual unsatisfactory, unfinished manner, by the king rising and walking + away, whilst I returned with the Kamraviona, who begged for ten more blue + eggs in addition to my present to make a full necklace, and told my men to + call upon him in the morning, when he would give me anything I wished to + eat. Bombay was then ordered to describe what sort of food I lived on + usually; when, Mganda fashion, he broke a stick into ten bits, each + representing a differing article, and said, "Bana eat mixed food always"; + and explained that stick No. 1 represented beef; No. 2, mutton; No. 3, + fowl; No. 4, eggs; No. 5, fish; No. 6, potatoes; No. 7, plantains; No. 8, + pombe; No. 9, butter; No. 10, flour. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—To-day the king was amusing himself among his women again, and + not to be seen. I sent Bombay with ten blue eggs as a present for the + Kamraviona, intimating my desire to call upon him. He sent me a goat and + ten fowls' eggs, saying he was not visible to strangers on business + to-day. I inferred that he required the king's permission to receive me. + This double failure was a more serious affair then a mere slight; for my + cows were eaten up, and my men clamouring incessantly for food; and though + they might by orders help themselves "ku n'yangania"—by seizing—from + the Waganda, it hurt my feelings so much to witness this, that I tried + from the first to dispense with it, telling the king I had always flogged + my men for stealing, and now he turned them into a pack of thieves. I + urged that he should either allow me to purchase rations, or else feed + them from the palace as Rumanika did; but he always turned a deaf ear, or + said that what Sunna his father had introduced it ill became him to + subvert; and unless my men helped themselves they would die of starvation. + </p> + <p> + On the present emergency I resolved to call upon the queen. On reaching + the palace, I sent an officer in to announce my arrival, and sat waiting + for the reply fully half an hour, smoking my pipe, and listening to her in + the adjoining court, where music was playing, and her voice occasionally + rent the air with merry boisterous laughing. + </p> + <p> + The messenger returned to say no one could approach her sanctuary or + disturb her pleasure at this hour; I must wait and bide my time, as the + Uganda officers do. Whew! Here was another diplomatic crisis, which had to + be dealt with in the usual way. "I bide my time!" I said, rising in a + towering passion, and thrashing the air with my ramrod walking-stick, + before all the visiting Wakungu, "when the queen has assured me her door + would always be open to me! I shall leave this court at once, and I + solemnly swear I shall never set foot in it again, unless some apology be + made for treating me like a dog." Then, returning home, I tied up all the + presents her majesty had given me in a bundle, and calling Maula and my + men together, told them to take them where they came from; for it ill + became me to keep tokens of friendship when no friendship existed between + us. I came to make friends with the queen, not to trade or take things + from her—and so forth. The blackguard Maula, laughing, said, "Bana + does not know what he is doing; it is a heinous offence in Uganda sending + presents back; nobody for their lives dare do so to the queen; her wrath + would know no bounds. She will say, 'I took a few trifles from Bana as + specimens of his country, but they shall all go back, and the things the + king has received shall go back also, for we are all of one family'; and + then won't Bana be very sorry? Moreover, Wakungu will be killed by dozens, + and lamentations will reign throughout the court to propitiate the devils + who brought such disasters on them." Bombay, also in a fright, said, "Pray + don't do so; you don't know these savages as we do; there is no knowing + what will happen; it may defeat our journey altogether. Further, we have + had no food these four days, because row succeeds row. If we steal, you + flog us; and if we ask the Waganda for food, they beat us. We don't know + what to do." I was imperative, however, and said, "Maula must take back + these things in the morning, or stand the consequences." In fact, I found + that, like the organ-grinders in London, to get myself moved on I must + make myself troublesome. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—The queen's presents were taken back by Maula and Nasib, + whilst I went to see the Kamraviona. Even this gentleman kept me waiting + for some time to show his own importance, and then admitted me into one of + his interior courts, where I found him sitting on the ground with several + elders; whilst Wasoga minstrels played on their lap-harps, and sang songs + in praise of their king, and the noble stranger who wore fine clothes and + eclipsed all previous visitors. At first, on my approach, the haughty + young chief, very handsome, and twenty years of age, did not raise his + head; then he begged me to be seated, and even enquired after my health, + in a listless, condescending kind of manner, as if the exertion of talking + was too much for his constitution or his rank; but he soon gave up this + nonsense as I began to talk, inquired, amongst other things, why I did not + see the Waganda at my house, when I said I should so much like to make + acquaintance with them, and begged to be introduced to the company who + were present. + </p> + <p> + I was now enabled to enlarge the list of topics on which it is prohibited + to the Waganda to speak or act under pain of death. No one even dare ever + talk about the royal pedigree of the countries that have been conquered, + or even of any neighbouring countries; no one dare visit the king's + guests, or be visited by them, without leave, else the king, fearing + sharers in his plunder, would say, What are you plucking our goose for? + Neither can any one cast his eye for a moment on the women of the palace, + whether out walking or at home, lest he should be accused of amorous + intentions. Beads and brass wire, exchanged for ivory or slaves, are the + only articles of foreign manufacture any Mganda can hold in his + possession. Should anything else be seen in his house—for instance, + cloth—his property would be confiscated and his life taken. + </p> + <p> + I was now introduced to the company present, of whom one Mgema, an elderly + gentleman of great dignity, had the honour to carry Sunna the late king; + Mpungu, who cooked for Sunna, also ranks high in court; then Usungu and + Kunza, executioners, rank very high, enjoying the greatest confidence with + the king; and, finally, Jumba and Natigo, who traced their pedigree to the + age of the first Uganda king. As I took down a note of their several + names, each seemed delighted at finding his name written down by me; and + Kunza, the executioner, begged as a great favour that I would plead to the + king to spare his son's life, who, as I have mentioned, was ordered out to + execution on the last levee day. At first I thought it necessary, for the + sake of maintaining my dignity, to raise objections, and said it would ill + become one of my rank to make any request that might possibly be rejected; + but as the Kamraviona assured me there would be no chance of failure, and + everybody else agreed with him, I said it would give me intense + satisfaction to serve him; and the old man squeezed my hand as if + overpowered with joy. + </p> + <p> + This meeting, as might be imagined, was a very dull one, because the + company, being tongue-tied as regards everything of external interest, + occupied themselves solely on matters of home business, or indulged their + busy tongues, Waganda fashion, in gross flattery of their "illustrious + visitor." In imitation of the king, the Kamraviona now went from one hut + to another, requesting us to follow that we might see all his greatness, + and then took me alone into a separate court, to show me his women, some + five-and-twenty of the ugliest in Uganda. This, he added, was a mark of + respect he had never conferred on any person before; but, fearing lest I + should misunderstand his meaning and covet any of them, he said, "Mind + they are only to be looked at." + </p> + <p> + As we retired to the other visitors, the Kamraviona, in return for some + courteous remarks of mine, said all the Waganda were immensely pleased + with my having come to visit them; and as he heard my country is governed + by a woman, what would I say if he made the Waganda dethrone her, and + create me king instead? Without specially replying, I showed him a map, + marking off the comparative sizes of British and Waganda possessions, and + shut him up. The great Kamraviona, or commander-in-chief, with all his + wives, has no children, and was eager to know if my skill could avail to + remove this cloud in his fortunes. He generously gave me a goat and eggs, + telling my men they might help themselves to plantains from any gardens + they liked beyond certain limits, provided they did not enter houses or + take anything else. He then said he was tired and walked away without + another word. + </p> + <p> + On returning home I found Nasib and Maula waiting for me, with all the + articles that had been returned to the queen very neatly tied together. + They had seen her majesty, who, on receiving my message, pretended + excessive anger with her doorkeeper for not announcing my arrival + yesterday—flogged him severely—inspected all the things + returned—folded them up again very neatly with her own hands—said + she felt much hurt at the mistake which had arisen, and hoped I would + forgive and forget it, as her doors would always be open to me. + </p> + <p> + I now had a laugh at my friends Maula and Bombay for their misgivings of + yesterday, telling them I knew more of human nature than they did; but + they shook their heads, and said it was all very well Bana having done it, + but if Arabs or any other person had tried the same trick, it would have + been another affair. "Just so," said I; "but then, don't you see, I know + my value here, which makes all the difference you speak of." + </p> + <p> + 18th.—Whilst walking towards the palace to pay the king a friendly + visit, I met two of my men speared on the head, and streaming with blood; + they had been trying to help themselves to plantains carried on the heads + of Waganda; but the latter proving too strong, my people seized a boy and + woman from their party as witnesses, according to Uganda law, and ran away + with them, tied hand and neck together. With this addition to my + attendance I first called in at the Kamraviona's for justice; but as he + was too proud to appear at once, I went on to the king's fired three shots + as usual, and obtained admittance at once, when I found him standing in a + yard dressed in cloth, with his iron chair behind him, and my double-gun + loaded with half charges of powder and a few grains of iron shot, looking + eagerly about for kites to fly over. His quick eye, however, readily + detected my wounded men and prisoners, as also some Wazinza prisoners led + in by Waganda police, who had been taken in the act of entering Waganda + houses and assailing their women. Thus my men were cleared of a false + stigma; and the king, whilst praising them, ordered all the Wazinza to + leave his dominions on the morrow. + </p> + <p> + The other case was easily settled by my wounded men receiving orders to + keep their prisoners till claimed, when, should any people come forward, + they would be punished, otherwise their loss in human stock would be + enough. The Wanguana had done quite right to seize on the highway, else + they would have starved; such was the old law, and such is the present + one. It was no use our applying for a change of system. At this stage of + the business, the birds he was watching having appeared, the king, in a + great state of excitement, said, "Shoot that kite," and then "Shoot that + other"; but the charges were too light; and the birds flew away, kicking + with their claws as if merely stung a little. + </p> + <p> + Whilst this was going on, the Kamraviona, taking advantage of my having + opened the door with the gun, walked in to make his salutations. A + blacksmith produced two very handsome spears, and a fisherman a basket of + fish, from which two fish were taken out and given to me. The king then + sat on his iron chair, and I on a wooden box which I had contrived to + stuff with the royal grass he gave me, and so made a complete miniature + imitation of his throne. The folly in now allowing me to sit upon my + portable iron stool, as an ingenious device for carrying out my + determination to sit before him like an Englishman. I wished to be + communicative, and, giving him a purse of money, told him the use and + value of the several coins; but he paid little regard to them, and soon + put them down. The small-talk of Uganda had much more attractions to his + mind than the wonders of the outer world, and he kept it up with his + Kamraviona until rain fell and dispersed the company. + </p> + <p> + 19th.—As the queen, to avoid future difficulties, desired my + officers to acquaint her beforehand whenever I wished to call upon her, I + sent Nasib early to say I would call in the afternoon; but he had to wait + till the evening before he could deliver the message, though she had been + drumming and playing all the day. She then complained against my men for + robbing her gardeners on the highway, wished to know why I didn't call + upon her oftener, appointed the following morning for an interview, and + begged I would bring her some liver medicines, as she suffered from + constant twinges in her right side, sealing her "letter" with a present of + a nest of eggs and one fowl. + </p> + <p> + Whilst Nasib was away, I went to the Kamraviona to treat him as I had the + king. He appeared a little more affable to-day, yet still delighted in + nothing but what was frivolous. My beard, for instance, engrossed the + major part of the conversation; all the Waganda would come out in future + with hairy faces; but when I told them that, to produce such a growth, + they must wash their faces with milk, and allow a cat to lick it off, they + turned up their noses in utter contempt. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—I became dead tired of living all alone, with nothing else to + occupy my time save making these notes every day in my office letter-book, + as my store of stationery was left at Karague. I had no chance of seeing + any visitors, save the tiresome pages, who asked me to give or to do + something for the king every day; and my prospect was cheerless, as I had + been flatly refused a visit to Usoga until Grant should come. For want of + better amusement, I made a page of Lugoi, a sharp little lad, son of the + late Beluch, but adopted by Uledi, and treated him as a son, which he + declared he wished to be, for he liked me better than Uledi as a father. + He said he disliked Uganda, where people's lives are taken like those of + fowls; and wished to live at the coast, the only place he ever heard of, + where all the Wanguana come from—great swells in Lugoi's estimation. + Now, with Lugoi dressed in a new white pillow-case, with holes trimmed + with black tape for his head and arms to go through, a dagger tied with + red bindera round his waist, and a square of red blanket rolled on his + shoulder as a napkin, for my gun to rest on, or in place of a goat-skin + run when he wished to sit down, I walked off to inquire how the Kamraviona + was, and took my pictures with me. + </p> + <p> + Lugoi's dress, however, absorbed all their thoughts, and he was made to + take it off and put it on again as often as any fresh visitor came to + call. Hardly a word was said about anything else; even the pictures, which + generally are in such demand, attracted but little notice. I asked the + Kamraviona to allow me to draw his pet dog; when the king's sister Miengo + came in and sat down, laughing and joking with me immoderately. + </p> + <p> + At first there was a demur about my drawing the dog—whether from + fear of bewitching the animal or not, I cannot say; but instead of + producing the pet—a beautifully-formed cream-coloured dog—a + common black one was brought in, which I tied in front of Miengo, and then + drew both woman and dog together. After this unlawful act was discovered, + of drawing the king's sister without his consent, the whole company roared + with laughter, and pretended nervous excitement lest I should book them + likewise. One of my men, Sangoro, did not return to camp last night from + foraging; and as my men suspect the Waganda must have murdered him, I told + the Kamraviona, requesting him to find out; but he coolly said, "Look for + him yourselves two days more, for Wanguana often make friends with our + people, and so slip away from their masters; but as they are also often + murdered, provided you cannot find him in that time, we will have the + Mganga out." + </p> + <p> + 21st.—Last night I was turned out of my bed by a terrible hue and + cry from the quarter allotted to Rozaro and his Wanyambo companions; for + the Waganda had threatened to demolish my men, one by one, for seizing + their pombe and plaintains, though done according to the orders of the + king; and now, finding the Wanyambo nearest to the road, they set on them + by moonlight, with spear and club, maltreating them severely, till, with + reinforcements, the Wanyambo gained the ascendancy, seized two spears and + one shield as a trophy, and drove their enemies off. In the morning, I + sent the Wakungu off with the trophies to the king, again complaining that + he had turned my men into a pack of highwaymen, and, as I foresaw, had + thus created enmity between the Waganda and them, much to my annoyance. I + therefore begged he would institute some means to prevent any further + occurrence of such scenes, otherwise I would use firearms in self-defence. + </p> + <p> + Whilst these men were on this mission, I went on a like errand to the + queen, taking my page Lugoi with the liver medicine. The first object of + remark was Lugoi, as indeed it was everywhere; for, as I walked along, + crowds ran after the little phenomenon. Then came the liver questions; + and, finally what I wanted—her complaint against my men for robbing + on the road, as it gave me the opportunity of telling her the king was + doing what I had been trying to undo with my stick ever since I left the + coast; and I begged she would use influence to correct these + disagreeables. She told me for the future to send my men to her palace for + food, and rob no more; in the meanwhile, here were some plantains for + them. She then rose and walked away, leaving me extremely disappointed + that I could not make some more tangible arrangement with her—such + as, if my men came and found the gate shut, what were they to do then? + there were forty-five of them; how much would she allow; etc. etc. But + this was a true specimen of the method of transacting business among the + royal family of Uganda. They gave orders without knowing how they are to + be carried out, and treat all practical arrangements as trifling details + not worth attending to. + </p> + <p> + After this unsatisfactory interview, I repaired to the king's, knowing the + power of my gun to obtain an interview, whilst doubting the ability of the + Wakungu to gain an audience for me. Such was the case. These men had been + sitting all day without seeing the king, and three shots opened his gate + immediately to me. He was sitting on the iron chair in the shade of the + court, attended by some eighty women, tweedling the loading rod in his + fingers; but as my rod appeared a better one than his, they were + exchanged. I then gave him a tortoise-shell comb to comb his hair straight + with, as he invariably remarked on the beautiful manner in which I dressed + my hair, making my uncap to show it to his women, and afterwards asked my + men to bring on the affair of last night. They feared, they said, to speak + on such subjects whilst the women were present. I begged for a private + audience; still they would not speak until encouraged and urged beyond all + patience. I said, in Kisuahili, "Kbakka" (king), "my men are afraid to + tell you what I want to say"; when Maula, taking advantage of my having + engaged his attention, though the king did not understand one word I said, + said of himself, by way of currying favour, "I saw a wonderful gun in + Rumankika's hands, with six barrells; not a short one like your fiver" + (meaning the revolving pistol) "but a long one, as long as my arm." + "Indeed," says the king, "we must have that." A page was then sent for by + Maula, who, giving him a bit of stick representing the gun required, told + him to fetch it immediately. + </p> + <p> + The king then said to me, "What is powder made of?" I began with sulphur + (kibriti), intending to explain everything; but the word kibriti was + enough for him, and a second stick was sent for kibriti, the bearer being + told to hurry for his life and fetch it. The king now ordered some high + officers who were in waiting to approach. They come, almost crouching to + their knees, with eyes averted from the women, and n'yanzigged for the + favour of being called, till they streamed with perspiration. Four young + women, virgins, the daughters of these high officers, nicely dressed, were + shown in as brides, and ordered to sit with the other women. A gamekeeper + brought in baskets small antelopes, called mpeo—with straight horns + resembling those of the saltiana, but with coats like the hog-deer of + India—intended for the royal kitchen. Elderly gentlemen led in goats + as commutation for offences, and went through the ceremonies due for the + favour of being relieved of so much property. Ten cows were then driven + in, plundered from Unyoro, and outside, the voices of the brave army who + captured them were heard n'yanzigging vehemently. Lastly, some beautifully + made shields were presented, and, because extolled, n'yanzigged over; when + the king rose abruptly and walked straight away, leaving my fools of men + no better off for food, no reparation for their broken heads, than if I + had never gone there. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—I called on the queen to inquire after her health, and to know + how my men were to be fed; but, without giving me time to speak, she flew + at me again about my men plundering. The old story was repeated; I had + forty-five hungry men, who must have food, and unless either she or the + king would make some proper provision for them, I could not help it. Again + she promised to feed them, but she objected to them bearing swords, "for + of what use are swords? If the Waganda don't like the Wanguana, can swords + prevail in our country?" And, saying this, she walked away. I thought to + myself that she must have directed the attack upon my camp last night and + is angry at the Wanguana swords driving her men away. At 3 p.m. I visited + the king, to have a private chat, and state my grievances; but the three + shots fired brought him out to levee, when animals and sundry other things + were presented; and appointments of Wakungu were made for the late gallant + services of some of the men in plundering Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + The old executioner, Kunza, being present, I asked the king to pardon his + son. Surprised, at first Mtesa said, "Can it be possible Bana has asked + for this?" And when assured, in great glee he ordered the lad's release, + amidst shouts of laughter from everybody but the agitated father, who + n'yanzigged, cried, and fell at my feet, making a host of powerful signs + as a token of his gratitude; for his heart was too full of emotion to give + utterance to his feelings. The king them, in high good-humour, said, "You + have called on me many times without broaching the subject of Usoga, and + perhaps you may fancy we are not exerting ourselves in the matter; but my + army is only now returning from war" (meaning plundering in Unyoro), "and + I am collecting another one, which will open Usoga effectually." Before I + could say anything, the king started up in his usual manner, inviting a + select few to follow him to another court, when my medicine-chest was + inspected, and I was asked to operate for fistula on one of the royal + executioners. I had no opportunity of incurring this responsibility; for + while professing to prepare for the operation, the king went off it a + fling. + </p> + <p> + When I got home I found Sangoro, whom we thought lost or murdered, quietly + ensconced in camp. He had been foraging by himself a long way from camp, + in a neighbourhood where many of the king's women are kept; and it being + forbidden ground, he was taken up by the keepers, placed in the stocks, + and fed, until to-day, when he extricated his legs by means of his sword, + and ran away. My ever-grumbling men mobbed me again, clamouring for food, + saying, as they eyed my goats, I lived at ease and overlooked their wants. + In vain I told them they had fared more abundantly than I had since we + entered Uganda; whilst I spared my goats to have a little flesh of their + cows as rapidly as possible, selling the skins for pombe, which I seldom + tasted; they robbed me as long as I had cloth or beads, and now they had + all become as fat as hogs by lifting food off the Waganda lands. As I + could not quiet them, I directed that, early next morning, Maula should go + to the king and Nasib to the queen, while I proposed going to Kamraviona's + to work them all three about this affair of food. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—According to the plan of last night, I called early on the + Kamraviona. He promised me assistance, but with an air which seemed to + say, What are the sufferings of other men to me? So I went home to + breakfast, doubting if anything ever would be done. As Kaggo, however, the + second officer of importance, had expressed a wish to see me, I sent + Bombay to him for food, and waited the upshot. Presently the king sent to + say he wished to see me with my compass; for the blackguard Maula had told + him I possessed a wonderful instrument, by looking at which I could find + my way all over the world. I went as requested, and found the king sitting + outside the palace on my chair dressed in cloths, with my silk neckerchief + and crest-ring, playing his flute in concert with his brothers, some + thirty-odd young men and boys, one half of them manacled, the other half + free, with an officer watching over them to see that they committed no + intrigues. + </p> + <p> + We then both sat side by side in the shade of the courtwalls, conversed + and had music by turns; for the king had invited his brothers here to + please me, the first step towards winning the coveted compass. My hair + must now be shown and admired, then my shoes taken off and inspected, and + my trousers tucked up to show that I am white all over. Just at this time + Bombay, who had been in great request, came before us laden with + plantains. This was most opportune; for the king asked what he had been + about, and then the true state of the case as regards my difficulties in + obtaining food were, I fancy, for the first time, made known to him. In a + great fit of indignation he said, "I once killed a hundred Wakungu in a + single day, and now, if they won't feed my guests, I will kill a hundred + more; for I know the physic for bumptiousness." Then, sending his brothers + away, he asked me to follow him into the back part of the palace, as he + loved me so much he must show me everything. We walked along under the + umbrella, first looking down one street of huts, then up another, and, + finally, passing the sleeping-chamber, stopped at one adjoining it. "That + hut," said the king, "is the one I sleep in; no one of my wives dare + venture within it unless I call her." He let me feel immediately that for + the distinction conferred on me in showing me this sacred hut a return was + expected. Could I after that refuse him such a mere trifle as a compass? I + told him he might as well put my eyes out and ask me to walk home, as take + away that little instrument, which could be of no use to him, as he could + not read or understand it. But this only excited his cupidity; he watched + it twirling round and pointing to the north, and looked and begged again, + until, tired of his importunities, I told him I must wait until the Usoga + road was open before I could part with it, and then the compass would be + nothing to what I would give him. Hearing this, "That is all on my + shoulders; as sure as I live it shall be done; for that country has no + king, and I have long been desirous of taking it." I declined, however, to + give him the instrument on the security of his promise, and he went to + breakfast. + </p> + <p> + I walked off to Usungu to see what I could do for him in his misery. I + found that he had a complication of evils entirely beyond my healing + power, and among them inveterate forms of the diseases which are generally + associated with civilisation and its social evils. I could do nothing to + cure him, but promised to do whatever was in my power to alleviate his + sufferings. + </p> + <p> + 24th.—Before breakfast I called on poor Usungu, prescribing hot + coffee to be drunk with milk every morning, which astonished him not a + little, as the negroes only use coffee for chewing. He gave my men pombe + and plantains. On my return I met a page sent to invite me to the palace. + I found the king sitting with a number of women. He was dressed in + European clothes, part of them being a pair of trousers he begged for + yesterday, that he might appear like Bana. This was his first appearance + in trousers, and his whole attire, contrasting strangely with his native + habiliments, was in his opinion very becoming, though to me a little + ridiculous; for the legs of the trousers, as well as the sleeves of the + waistcoat, were much too short, so that his black feet and hands stuck out + at the extremities as an organ-player's monkey's do, whilst the cockscomb + on his head prevented a fez cap, which was part of his special costume for + the occasion, from sitting properly. This display over, the women were + sent away, and I saw shown into a court, where a large number of plantains + were placed in a line upon the ground for my men to take away, and we were + promised the same treat every day. From this we proceeded to another + court, where we sat in the shade together, when the women returned again, + but were all dumb, because my interpreters dared not for their lives say + anything, even on my account, to the king's women. Getting tired, I took + out my sketch-book and drew Lubuga, the pet, which amused the king + immensely as he recognised her cockscomb. + </p> + <p> + Then twenty naked virgins, the daughters of Wakungu, all smeared and + shining with grease, each holding a small square of mbugu for a fig-leaf, + marched in a line before us, as a fresh addition to the harem, whilst the + happy fathers floundered n'yanzigging on the ground, delighted to find + their darlings appreciated by the king. Seeing this done in such a quiet + mild way before all my men, who dared not lift their heads to see it, made + me burst into a roar of laughter, and the king, catching the infection + from me, laughed as well: but the laughing did not end there—for the + pages, for once giving way to nature, kept bursting—my men chuckled + in sudden gusts—while even the women, holding their mouths for fear + of detection, responded—and we all laughed together. Then a sedate + old dame rose from the squatting mass, ordered the virgins to right-about, + and marched them off, showing their still more naked reverses. I now + obtained permission for the Wakungu to call upon me, and fancied I only + required my interpreters to speak out like men when I had anything to say, + to make my residence in Uganda both amusing and instructive; but though + the king, carried off by the prevailing good-humour of the scene we had + both witnessed, supported me, I found that he had counter-ordered what he + had said as soon as I had gone, and, in fact, no Mkungu ever dared come + near me. + </p> + <p> + 25th.—To-day I visited Usungu again, and found him better. He gave + pombe and plantains for my people, but would not talk to me, though I told + him he had permission to call on me. + </p> + <p> + I have now been for some time within the court precincts, and have + consequently had an opportunity of witnessing court customs. Among these, + nearly every day since I have changed my residence, incredible as it may + appear to be, I have seen one, two, or three of the wretched palace women + led away to execution, tied by the hand, and dragged along by one of the + body-guard, crying out, as she went to premature death, "Hai Minange!" (O + my lord!) "Kbakka!" (My king!) "Hai N'yawo!" (My mother!) at the top of + her voice, in the utmost despair and lamentation; and yet there was not a + soul who dared lift hand to save any of them, though many might be heard + privately commenting on their beauty. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—To-day, to amuse the king, I drew a picture of himself holding + a levee, and proceeded to visit him. On the way I found the highroad + thronged with cattle captured in Unyoro; and on arrival at the + ante-chamber, amongst the officers in waiting, Masimbi (Mr Cowries or + Shells), the queen's uncle, and Congow, a young general, who once led an + army into Unyoro, past Kamrasi's palace. They said they had obtained leave + for me to visit them, and were eagerly looking out for the happy event. At + once, on firing, I was admitted to the king's favourite place, which, now + that the king had a movable chair to sit upon, was the shade of the court + screen. We had a chat; the picture was shown to the women; the king would + like to have some more, and gave me leave to draw in the palace any time I + liked. At the same time he asked for my paint-box, merely to look at it. + Though I repeatedly dunned him for it, I could never get it back from him + until I was preparing to leave Uganda. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—After breakfast I started on a visit to Congow; but finding he + had gone to the king as usual, called at Masimbi's and he being absent + also, I took advantage of my proximity to the queen's palace to call on + her majesty. For hours I was kept waiting; firstly, because she was at + breakfast; secondly, because she was "putting on medicine"; and, thirdly, + because the sun was too powerful for her complexion; when I became tired + of her nonsense, and said, "If she does not wish to see me, she had better + say so at once, else I shall walk away; for the last time I came I saw her + but for a minute, when she rudely turned her back upon me, and left me + sitting by myself." I was told not to be in a hurry—she would see me + in the evening. This promise might probably be fulfilled six blessed hours + from the time when it was made; but I thought to myself, every place in + Uganda is alike when there is no company at home, and so I resolved to sit + the time out, like Patience on a monument, hoping something funny might + turn up after all. + </p> + <p> + At last her majesty stumps out, squats behind my red blanket, which is + converted into a permanent screen, and says hastily, or rather testily, + "Can't Bana perceive the angry state of the weather?—clouds flying + about, and the wind blowing half a gale? Whenever that is the case, I + cannot venture out." Taking her lie without an answer, I said, I had now + been fifty days or so doing nothing in Uganda—not one single visitor + of my own rank ever came near me, and I could not associated with people + far below her condition and mine—in fact, all I had to amuse me at + home now was watching a hen lay her eggs upon my spare bed. Her majesty + became genial, as she had been before, and promised to provide me with + suitable society. I then told her I had desired my officers several times + to ask the king how marriages were conducted in this country, as they + appeared so different from ours, but they always said they dared not put + such a question to him, and now I hoped she would explain it to me. To + tell her I could not get anything from the king, I knew would be the + surest way of eliciting what I wanted from her, because of the jealousy + between the two courts; and in this instance it was fully proved, for she + brightened up at once, and, when I got her to understand something of what + I meant by a marriage ceremony, in high good humour entered on a long + explanation, to the following effect:— + </p> + <p> + There are no such things as marriages in Uganda; there are no ceremonies + attached to it. If any Mkungu possessed of a pretty daughter committed an + offence, he might give her to the king as a peace-offering; if any + neighbouring king had a pretty daughter, and the king of Uganda wanted + her, she might be demanded as a fitting tribute. The Wakungu in Uganda are + supplied with women by the king, according to their merits, from seizures + in battle abroad, or seizures from refractory officers at home. The women + are not regarded as property according to the Wanyamuezi practice, though + many exchange their daughters; and some women, for misdemeanours, are sold + into slavery; whilst others are flogged, or are degraded to do all the + menial services of the house. + </p> + <p> + The Wakungu then changed the subject by asking, if I married a black + woman, would there be any offspring, and what would be their colour? The + company now became jovial, when the queen improved it by making a + significant gesture, and with roars of laughter asking me if I would like + to be her son-in-law, for she had some beautiful daughters, either of the + Wahuma, or Waganda breed. Rather staggered at first by this awful + proposal, I consulted Bombay what I should do with one if I got her. He, + looking more to number one than my convenience, said, "By all means accept + the offer, for if YOU don't like her, WE should, and it would be a good + means of getting her out of this land of death, for all black people love + Zanzibar." The rest need not be told; as a matter of course I had to + appear very much gratified, and as the bowl went round, all became + uproarious. I must wait a day or two, however, that a proper selection + might be made; and when the marriage came off, I was to chain the fair one + two or three days, until she became used to me, else, from mere fright, + she might run away. + </p> + <p> + To keep up the spirits of the queen, though her frequent potions of pombe + had wellnigh done enough, I admired her neck-ring, composed of copper + wire, with a running inlaid twist of iron, and asked her why she wore such + a wreath of vine-leaves, as I had often seen on some of the Wakungu. On + this she produced a number of rings similar to the one she wore, and + taking off her own, placed it round my neck. Then, pointing to her wreath, + she said, "This is the badge of a kidnapper's office—whoever wears + it, catches little children." I inferred that its possession, as an + insignia of royalty, conferred on the bearer the power of seizure, as the + great seal in this country confers power on public officers. + </p> + <p> + The queen's dinner was now announced; and, desiring me to remain where I + was for a short time, she went to it. She sent me several dishes + (plantain-leaves), with well-cooked beef and mutton, and a variety of + vegetables, from her table, as well as a number of round moist napkins, + made in the shape of wafers, from the freshly-drawn plantain fibres, to + wash the hands and face with. There was no doubt now about her culinary + accomplishments. I told her so when she returned, and that I enjoyed her + parties all the more because they ended with a dinner. "More pombe, more + pombe," cried the queen, full of mirth and glee, helping everybody round + in turn, and shouting and laughing at their Kiganda witticisms—making, + though I knew not a word said, an amusing scene to behold—till the + sun sank; and her majesty remarking it, turned to her court and said, "If + I get up, will Bana also rise, and not accuse me of deserting him?" With + this speech a general rising took place, and, watching the queen's + retiring, I stood with my hat in hand, whilst all the Wakungu fell upon + their knees, and then all separated. + </p> + <p> + 28th.—I went to the palace, and found, as usual, a large levee + waiting the king's pleasure to appear; amongst whom were the Kamraviona, + Masimbi, and the king's sister Miengo. I fired my gun, and admitted at + once, but none of the others could follow me save Miengo. The king, + sitting on the chair with his women by his side, ordered twelve cloths, + the presents of former Arab visitors, to be brought before him; and all of + these I was desired to turn into European garments, like my own coats, + trousers, and waistcoats. It was no use saying I had no tailors—the + thing must be done somehow; for he admired my costume exceedingly, and + wished to imitate it now he had cloth enough for ever to dispense with the + mbugu. + </p> + <p> + As I had often begged the king to induce his men, who are all wonderfully + clever artisans, to imitate the chair and other things I gave him, I now + told him if he would order some of his sempsters, who are far cleverer + with the needle than my men, to my camp, I would cut up some old clothes, + and so teach them how to work. This was agreed to, and five cows were + offered as a reward; but as his men never came, mine had to do the job. + </p> + <p> + Maula then engaged the king's attention for fully an hour, relating what + wonderful things Bana kept in his house, if his majesty would only deign + to see them; and for this humbug got rewarded by a present of three women. + Just at this juncture an adjutant flew overhead, and, by way of fun, I + presented my gun, when the excited king, like a boy from school, jumped + up, forgetting his company, and cried, "Come, Bana, and shoot the nundo; I + know where he has gone—follow me." And away we went, first through + one court, then through another, till we found the nundo perched on a + tree, looking like a sedate old gentleman with a bald head, and very + sharp, long nose. Politeness lost the bird; for whilst I wished the king + to shoot, he wished me to do so, from fear of missing it himself. He did + not care about vultures—he could practise at them at any time; but + he wanted a nundo above all things. The bird, however, took the hint, and + flew away. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII. Palace, Uganda—Continued + </h2> + <p> + A Visit to a Distinguished Statesman—A Visit from the King—Royal + Sport—The Queen's Present of Wives—The Court Beauties and + their Reverses—Judicial Procedure in Uganda—Buffalo-Hunting—A + Musical Party—My Medical Practice—A Royal Excursion on the + N'yanza—The Canoes of Uganda—A Regatta—Rifle Practice—Domestic + Difficulties—Interference of a Magician—The King's Brothers. + </p> + <p> + 29th.—According to appointment I went early this morning to visit + Congow. He kept me some time waiting in his outer hut, and then called me + in to where I found him sitting with his women—a large group, by no + means pretty. His huts are numerous, the gardens and courts all very neat + and well kept. He was much delighted with my coming, produced pombe, and + asked me what I thought of his women, stripping them to the waist. He + assured me that he had thus paid me such a compliment as nobody else had + ever obtained, since the Waganda are very jealous of one another—so + much so, that any one would be killed if found starring upon a woman even + in the highways. I asked him what use he had for so many women? To which + he replied, "None whatever; the king gives them to us to keep up our rank, + sometimes as many as one hundred together, and we either turn them into + wives, or make servants of them, as we please." Just then I heard that + Mkuenda, the queen's woman-keeper, was outside waiting for me, but dared + not come in, because Congow's women were all out; so I asked leave to go + home to breakfast, much to the surprise of Congow, who thought I was his + guest for the whole day. It is considered very indecorous in Uganda to + call upon two persons in one day, though even the king or the queen should + be one of them. Then, as there was no help for it—Congow could not + detain me when hungry—he showed me a little boy, the only child he + had, and said, with much fatherly pride, "Both the king and queen have + called on me to see this fine little fellow"; and we parted to meet again + some other day. Outside his gate I found Mkuenda, who said the queen had + sent him to invite "her son" to bring her some stomach medicine in the + morning, and come to have a chat with her. With Mkuenda I walked home; but + he was so awed by the splendour of my hut, with its few blankets and bit + of chintz, that he would not even sit upon a cow-skin, but asked if any + Waganda dared venture in there. He was either too dazzled or too timid to + answer any questions, and in a few minutes walked away again. + </p> + <p> + After this, I had scarcely swallowed by breakfast before I received a + summons from the king to meet him out shooting, with all the Wanguana + armed, and my guns; and going towards the palace, found him with a large + staff, pages and officers as well as women, in a plantain garden, looking + eagerly out for birds, whilst his band was playing. In addition to his + English dress, he wore a turban, and pretended that the glare of the sun + was distressing his eyes—for, in fact, he wanted me to give him a + wideawake like my own. Then, as if a sudden freak had seized him, though I + knew it was on account of Maula's having excited his curiosity, he said, + "Where does Bana live? lead away." Bounding and scrambling, the Wakungu, + the women and all, went pell-mell through everything towards my hut. If + the Kamraviona or any of the boys could not move fast enough, on account + of the crops on the fields, they were piked in the back till half knocked + over; but, instead of minding, they trotted on, n'yanzigging as if + honoured by a kingly poke, though treated like so many dogs. + </p> + <p> + Arrived at the hut, the king took off his turban as I took off my hat, and + seated himself on my stool; whilst the Kamraviona, with much difficulty, + was induced to sit upon a cowskin, and the women at first were ordered to + squat outside. Everything that struck the eye was much admired and begged + for, though nothing so much as my wideawake and mosquito-curtains; then, + as the women were allowed to have a peep in and see Bana in his den, I + gave them two sacks of beads, to make the visit profitable, the only + alternative left me from being forced into inhospitality, for no one would + drink from my cup. Moreover, a present was demanded by the laws of the + country. + </p> + <p> + The king, excitedly impatient, now led the way again, shooting + hurry-scurry through my men's lines, which were much commented on as being + different from Waganda hutting, on to the tall tree with the adjutant's + nest. One young bird was still living in it. There was no shot, so bullets + must be fired; and the cunning king, wishing to show off, desired me to + fire simultaneously with himself. We fired, but my bullet struck the bough + the nest was resting on; we fired again, and the bullet passed through the + nest without touching the bird. I then asked the king to allow me to try + his Whitworth, to which a little bit of stick, as a charm to secure a + correct aim, had been tied below the trigger-guard. This time I broke the + bird's leg, and knocked him half out of the nest; so, running up to the + king, I pointed to the charm, saying, That has done it—hoping to + laugh him out of the folly; but he took my joke in earnest, and he turned + to his men, commenting on the potency of the charm. Whilst thus engaged, I + took another rifle and brought the bird down altogether. "Woh, woh, woh!" + shouted the king; "Bana, Mzungu, Mzungu!" he repeated, leaping and + clapping his hands, as he ran full speed to the prostrate bird, whilst the + drums beat, and the Wakungu followed him: "Now, is not this a wonder? but + we must go and shoot another." "Where?" I said; "we may walk a long way + without finding, if we have nothing but our eyes to see with. Just send + for your telescope, and then I will show you how to look for birds." + Surprised at this announcement, the king sent his pages flying for the + instrument, and when it came I instructed him how to use it; when he could + see with it, and understand its powers, his astonishment knew no bounds; + and, turning to his Wakungu, he said, laughing, "Now I do see the use of + this thing I have been shutting up in the palace. On that distant tree I + can see three vultures. To its right there is a hut, with a woman sitting + inside the portal, and many goats are feeding all about the palace, just + as large and distinct as if I was close by them." + </p> + <p> + The day was now far spent, and all proceeded towards the palace. On the + way a mistletoe was pointed out as a rain-producing tree, probably + because, on a former occasion, I had advised the king to grow groves of + coffee-trees about his palace to improve its appearance, and supply the + court with wholesome food—at the same time informing him that trees + increase the falls of rain in a country, though very high ones would be + dangerous, because they attract lightning. Next the guns must be fired + off; and, as it would be a pity to waste lead, the king, amidst thunders + of applause, shot five cows, presenting his gun from the shoulder. + </p> + <p> + So ended the day's work in the field, but not at home; for I had hardly + arrived there before the pages hurried in to beg for powder and shot, then + caps, then cloth, and, everything else failing, a load of beads. Such are + the persecutions of this negro land—the host every day must beg + something in the most shameless manner from his guest, on the mere chance + of gaining something gratis, though I generally gave the king some trifle + when he least expected it, and made an excuse that he must wait for the + arrival of fresh stores from Gani when he asked. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—To fulfil my engagement with the queen, I walked off to her + palace with stomach medicine, thinking we were now such warm friends, all + pride and distant ceremonies would be dispensed with; but, on the + contrary, I was kept waiting for hours till I sent in word to say, if she + did not want medicine, I wished to go home, for I was tired of Uganda and + everything belonging to it. This message brought her to her gate, where + she stood laughing till the Wahuma girls she had promised me, one of + twelve and the other a little older, were brought in and made to squat in + front of us. The elder, who was in the prime of youth and beauty, very + large of limb, dark in colour, cried considerably; whilst the younger one, + though very fair, had a snubby nose and everted lips, and laughed as if + she thought the change in her destiny very good fun. I had now to make my + selection, and took the smaller one, promising her to Bombay as soon as we + arrived on the coast, where, he said, she would be considered a Hubshi or + Abyssinian. But when the queen saw what I had done, she gave me the other + as well, saying the little one was too young to go alone, and, if + separated, she would take fright and run away. Then with a gracious bow I + walked of with my two fine specimens of natural history, though I would + rather have had princes, that I might have taken them home to be + instructed in England; but the queen, as soon as we had cleared the + palace, sent word to say she must have another parting look at her son + with his wives. Still laughing, she said, "That will do; you look + beautiful; now go away home"; and off we trotted, the elder sobbing + bitterly, the younger laughing. + </p> + <p> + As soon as we reached home, my first inquiry was concerning their + histories, of which they appeared to know but very little. The elder, whom + I named Meri (plantains), was obtained by Sunna, the late king, as a wife, + from Nkole; and though she was a mere Kahala, or girl, when the old king + died, he was so attached to her he gave her twenty cows, in order that she + might fatten up on milk after her native fashion; but on Sunna's death, + when the establishment of women was divided, Meri fell to N'yamasore's + (the queen's) lot. The lesser one, who still retains the name of Kahala, + said she was seized in Unyoro by the Waganda, who took her to N'yamasore, + but what became of her father and mother she could not say. + </p> + <p> + It was now dinner-time, and as the usual sweet potatoes and goat's flesh + were put upon my box-table, I asked them to dine with me, and we became + great friends, for they were assured they would finally get good houses + and gardens at Zanzibar; but nothing would induce either of them to touch + food that had been cooked with butter. A dish of plantains and goat-flesh + was then prepared; but though Kahala wished to eat it, Meri rejected the + goat's flesh, and would not allow Kahala to taste it either; and thus + began a series of domestic difficulties. On inquiring how I could best + deal with my difficult charge, I was told the Wahuma pride was so great, + and their tempers so strong, they were more difficult to break in than a + phunda, or donkey, though when once tamed, they became the best of wives. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—I wished to call upon the queen and thank her for her charming + present, but my hungry men drove me to the king's palace in search of + food. The gun firing brought Mtesa out, prepared for a shooting trip, with + his Wakungu leading, the pages carrying his rifle and ammunition, and a + train of women behind. The first thing seen outside the palace gate was a + herd of cows, from which four were selected and shot at fifty paces by the + king, firing from his shoulder, amidst thunders of applause and + hand-shakings of the elders. I never saw them dare touch the king's hand + before. Then Mtesa, turning kindly to me, said, "Pray take a shot"; but I + waived the offer off, saying he could kill better himself. Ambitious of a + cut above cows, the king tried his hand at some herons perched on a tree, + and, after five or six attempts, hit one in the eye. Hardly able to + believe in his own skill, he stood petrified at first, and then ran madly + to the fallen bird, crying, "Woh, woh, woh! can this be?—is it true? + Woh, woh!" He jumped in the air, and all his men and women shouted in + concert with him. Then he rushes at me, takes both my hands—shakes, + shakes—woh, woh!—then runs to his women, then to his men; + shakes them all, woh-wohing, but yet not shaking or wohing half enough for + his satisfaction, for he is mad with joy at his own exploit. + </p> + <p> + The bird is then sent immediately to his mother, whilst he retires to his + palace, woh-wohing, and taking "ten to the dozen" all the way and boasting + of his prowess. "Now, Bana, tell me—do you not think, if two such + shots as you and I were opposed to an elephant, would he have any chance + before us? I know I can shoot—I am certain of it now. You have often + asked me to go hippopotamus-shooting with you, but I staved it off until I + learnt the way to shoot. Now, however, I can shoot—and that + remarkably well too, I flatter myself. I will have at them, and both of us + will go on the lake together." The palace was now reached; musicians were + ordered to play before the king, and Wakungu appointments were made to + celebrate the feats of the day. Then the royal cutler brought in + dinner-knives made of iron, inlaid with squares of copper and brass, and + goats and vegetables were presented as usual, when by torchlight we were + dismissed, my men taking with them as many plantains as they could carry. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—I stayed at home all this day, because the king and queen had + set it apart for looking at and arranging their horns—mapembe, or + fetishes, as the learned call such things—to see that there are no + imperfections in the Uganga. This was something like an inquiry into the + ecclesiastical condition of the country, while, at the same time, it was a + religious ceremony, and, as such, was appropriate to the first day after + the new moon appears. This being the third moon by account, in pursuance + of ancient customs, all the people about court, including the king, shaved + their heads—the king, however, retaining his cockscomb, the pages + their double cockades, and the other officers their single cockades on the + back of the head, or either side, according to the official rank of each. + My men were occupied making trousers for the king all day; whilst the + pages, and those sent to learn the art of tailoring, instead of doing + their duty, kept continually begging for something to present the king. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—The queen now taking a sporting fit into her head, sent for me + early in the morning, with all my men, armed, to shoot a crested crane in + her palace; but though we were there as required, we were kept waiting + till late in the afternoon, when, instead of talking about shooting, as + her Wakungu had forbidden her doing it, she asked after her two daughters—whether + they had run away, or if they liked their new abode? I replied I was sorry + circumstances did not permit my coming to thank her sooner, for I felt + grateful beyond measure to her for having charmed my house with such + beautiful society. I did not follow her advice to chain either of them + with iron, for I found cords of love, the only instrument white men know + the use of, quite strong enough. Fascinated with this speech, she said she + would give me another of a middle age between the two, expecting, as I + thought, that she would thus induce me to visit her more frequently than I + did her son; but, though I thanked her, it frightened me from visiting her + for ages after. + </p> + <p> + She then said, with glowing pride, casting a sneer on the king's + hospitality, "In the days of yore, Sunna, whenever visitors came to see + him, immediately presented them with women, and, secondly, with food; for + he was very particular in looking after his guests' welfare, which is not + exactly what you find the case now, I presume." The rest of the business + of the day consisted in applications for medicine and medical treatment, + which it was difficult satisfactorily to meet. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—To-day Katumba, the king's head page, was sent to me with deoles + to be made into trousers and waistcoats, and a large sixty-dollar silk I + had given him to cover the chair with. The king likes rich colours, and I + was solemnly informed that he will never wear anything but clothes like + Bana. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—By invitation I went to the palace at noon, with guns, and + found the king holding a levee, the first since the new moon, with all + heads shaved in the manner I have mentioned. Soon rising, he showed the + way through the palace to a pond, which is described as his bathing + N'yanza, his women attending, and pages leading the way with his guns. + From this we passed on to a jungle lying between the palace hill and + another situated at the northern end of the lake, where wild buffaloes + frequently lie concealed in the huge papyrus rushes of a miry drain; but + as none could be seen at that moment, we returned again to the palace. He + showed me large mounds of earth, in the shape of cocked hats, which are + private observatories, from which the surrounding country can be seen. By + the side of these observatories are huts, smaller than the ordinary ones + used for residing in, where the king, after the exertion of "looking out," + takes his repose. Here he ordered fruit to be brought—the Matunguru, + a crimson pod filled with acid seeds, which has only been observed growing + by the rivers or waters of Uganda—and Kasori, a sort of + liquorice-root. He then commenced eating with us, and begging again, + unsuccessfully, for my compass. I tried again to make him see the + absurdity of tying a charm on Whitworth's rifle, but without the least + effect. In fact he mistook all my answers for admiration, and asked me, in + the simplest manner possible, if I would like to possess a charm; and even + when I said "No, I should be afraid of provoking Lubari's" (God's) "anger + if I did so," he only wondered at my obstinacy, so thoroughly was he + wedded to his belief. He then called for his wideawake, and walked with us + into another quarter of his palace, when he entered a dressing-hut, + followed by a number of full-grown, stark-naked women, his valets; at the + same time ordering a large body of women to sit on one side the entrance, + whilst I, with Bombay, were directed to sit on the other, waiting till he + was ready to hold another levee. From this, we repaired to the great + throne-hut, where all his Wakungu at once formed court, and business was + commenced. Amongst other things, an officer, by name Mbogo, or the + Buffalo, who had been sent on a wild-goose chase to look after Mr + Petherick, described a journey he had made, following down the morning + sun. After he had passed the limits of plantain-eating men, he came upon + men who lived upon meat alone, who never wore mbugus, but either cloth or + skins, and instead of the spear they used the double-edged sime. He called + the people Wasewe, and their chief Kisawa; but the company pronounced them + to be Masawa (Masai). + </p> + <p> + After this, about eighty men were marched into the court, with their faces + blackened, and strips of plantain-bark tied on their heads, each holding + up a stick in his hand in place of a spear, under the regulation that no + person is permitted to carry weapons of any sort in the palace. They were + led by an officer, who, standing like a captain before his company, + ordered them to jump and praise the king, acting the part of fugleman + himself. Then said the king, turning to me, "Did I not tell you I had sent + many men to fight? These are some of my army returned; the rest are + coming, and will eventually, when all are collected, go in a body to fight + in Usoga." Goats and other peace-offerings were then presented; and, + finally a large body of officers came in with an old man, with his two + ears shorn off for having been too handsome in his youth, and a young + woman who, after four days' search, had been discovered in his house. They + were brought for judgment before the king. + </p> + <p> + Nothing was listened to but the plaintiff's statement, who said he had + lost the woman four days, and, after considerable search, had found her + concealed by the old man, who was indeed old enough to be her grandfather. + From all appearances one would have said the wretched girl had run away + from the plaintiff's house in consequence of ill treatment, and had + harboured herself on this decrepid old man without asking his leave; but + their voices in defence were never heard, for the king instantly sentenced + both to death, to prevent the occurrence of such impropriety again; and, + to make the example more severe, decreed that their lives should not be + taken at once, but, being fed to preserve life as long as possible, they + were to be dismembered bit by bit, as rations for the vultures, every day, + until life was extinct. The dismayed criminals, struggling to be heard, in + utter despair, were dragged away boisterously in the most barbarous + manner, to the drowning music of the milele and drums. + </p> + <p> + The king, in total unconcern about the tragedy he had thus enacted, + immediately on their departure said, "Now, then, for shooting, Bana; let + us look at your gun." It happened to be loaded, but fortunately only with + powder, to fire my announcement at the palace; for he instantly placed + caps on the nipples, and let off one barrel by accident, the contents of + which stuck in the thatch. This created a momentary alarm, for it was + supposed the thatch had taken fire; but it was no sooner suppressed than + the childish king, still sitting on his throne, to astonish his officers + still more, levelled the gun from his shoulder, fired the contents of the + second barrel into the faces of his squatting Wakungu, and then laughed at + his own trick. In the meanwhile cows were driven in, which the king + ordered his Wakungu to shoot with carbines; and as they missed them, he + showed them the way to shoot with the Whitworth, never missing. The + company now broke up, but I still clung to the king, begging him to allow + me to purchase food with beads, as I wanted it, for my establishment was + always more or less in a starving state; but he only said, "Let us know + what you want and you shall always have it"; which, in Uganda, I knew from + experience only meant, Don't bother me any more, but give me your spare + money, and help yourself from my spacious gardens—Uganda is before + you. + </p> + <p> + 5th—To-day the king went on a visit with his mother, and therefore + neither of them could be seen by visitors. I took a stroll towards the + N'yanza, passing through the plantain-groves occupied by the king's women, + where my man Sangoro had been twice taken up by the Mgemma and put in the + stocks. The plantain gardens were beautifully kept by numerous women, who + all ran away from fright at seeing me, save one who, taken by surprise, + threw herself flat on the ground, rolled herself up in her mbugu, and, + kicking with her naked heels, roared murder and help, until I poked her + up, and reproached her for her folly. This little incident made my fairies + bolder, and, sidling up to me one by one, they sat in a knot with me upon + the ground; then clasping their heads with their hands, they woh-wohed in + admiration of the white man; they never in all their lives saw anything so + wonderful; his wife and children must be like him; what would not Sunna + have given for such a treat?—but it was destined to Mtesa's lot. + What is the interpretation of this sign, if it does not point to the + favour in which Mtesa is upheld by the spirits? I wished to go, but no: + "Stop a little more," they said, all in a breath, or rather out of breath + in their excitement; "remove the hat and show the hair; take off the shoes + and tuck up the trousers; what on earth is kept in the pockets? Oh, wonder + of wonders!—and the iron!" As I put the watch close to the ear of + one of them, "Tick, tick, ticks—woh, woh, woh"—everybody must + hear it; and then the works had to be seen. "Oh, fearful!" said one, "hide + your faces: it is the Lubari. Shut it up, Bana, shut it up; we have seen + enough; but you will come again and bring us beads." So ended the day's + work. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—To-day I sent Bombay to the palace for food. Though rain fell + in torrents, he found the king holding a levee, giving appointments, + plantations, and women, according to merit, to his officers. As one + officer, to whom only one woman was given, asked for more, the king called + him an ingrate, and ordered him to be cut to pieces on the spot; and the + sentence was, as Bombay told me, carried into effect—not with + knives, for they are prohibited, but with strips of sharp-edged grass, + after the executioners had first dislocated his neck by a blow delivered + behind the head, with a sharp, heavy-headed club. + </p> + <p> + No food, however, was given to my men, though the king, anticipating + Bombay's coming, sent me one load of tobacco, one of butter, and one of + coffee. My residence in Uganda became much more merry now, for all the + women of the camp came daily to call on my two little girls; during which + time they smoked my tobacco, chewed my coffee, drank my pombe, and used to + amuse me with queer stories of their native land. Rozaro's sister also + came, and proposed to marry me, for Maula, she said, was a brutal man; he + killed one of his women because he did not like her, and now he had + clipped one of this poor creature's ears off for trying to run away from + him; and when abused for his brutality, he only replied, "It was no fault + of his, as the king set the example in the country." + </p> + <p> + In the evening I took a walk with Kahala, dressed in a red scarf, and in + company with Lugoi, to show my children off in the gardens to my fair + friends of yesterday. Everybody was surprised. The Mgemma begged us to sit + with him and drink pombe, which he generously supplied to our heart's + content; wondered at the beauty of Kahala, wished I would give him a wife + like her, and lamented that the king would not allow his to wear such + pretty clothes. We passed on a little farther, and were invited to sit + with another man, Lukanikka, to drink pombe and chew coffee—which we + did as before, meeting with the same remarks; for all Waganda, instructed + by the court, know the art of flattery better than any people in the + world, even including the French. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—In the morning, whilst it rained hard, the king sent to say + that he had started buffalo-shooting, and expected me to join him. After + walking a mile beyond the palace, we found him in a plantain garden, + dressed in imitation of myself, wideawake and all, the perfect picture of + a snob. He sent me a pot of pombe, which I sent home to the women, and + walked off for the shooting-ground, two miles further on, the band playing + in the front, followed by some hundred Wakungu—then the pages, then + the king, next myself, and finally the women—the best in front, the + worst bringing up the rear, with the king's spears and shield, as also + pots of pombe, a luxury the king never moves without. It was easy to see + there would be no sport, still more useless of offer any remarks, + therefore all did as they were bid. The broad road, like all in Uganda, + went straight over hill and dale, the heights covered with high grass or + plantain groves, and the valleys with dense masses of magnificent + forest-trees surrounding swamps covered with tall rushes half bridged. + Proceeding on, as we came to the first water, I commenced flirtations with + Mtesa's women, much to the surprise of the king and every one. The bridge + was broken, as a matter of course; and the logs which composed it, lying + concealed beneath the water, were toed successively by the leading men, + that those who followed should not be tripped up by them. This favour the + king did for me, and I in return for the women behind; they had never been + favoured in their lives with such gallantry, and therefore could not + refrain from laughing, which attracted the king's notice and set everybody + in a giggle; for till now no mortal man had ever dared communicate with + his women. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after this we left the highway, and, turning westwards, passed + through a dense jungle towards the eastern shores of the Murchison Creek, + cut by runnels and rivulets, where on one occasion I offered, by dumb + signs to carry the fair ones pick-a-back over, and after crossing a second + myself by a floating log, offered my hand. The leading wife first fears to + take it, then grows bold and accepts it; when the prime beauty, Lubuga, + following in her wake, and anxious to feel, I fancy, what the white man is + like, with an imploring face holds out both her hands in such a + captivating manner, that though I feared to draw attention by waiting any + longer, I could not resist compliance. The king noticed it; but instead of + upbraiding me, passed it off as a joke, and running up to the Kamraviona, + gave him a poke in the ribs, and whispered what he had seen, as if it had + been a secret. "Woh, woh!" says the Kamraviona, "what wonders will happen + next?" + </p> + <p> + We were now on the buffalo ground; but nothing could be seen save some old + footprints of buffaloes, and a pitfall made for catching them. By this + time the king was tired; and as he saw me searching for a log to sit upon, + he made one of his pages kneel upon all fours and sat upon his back, + acting the monkey in aping myself; for otherwise he would have sat on a + mbugu, in his customary manner, spread on the ground. We returned, pushing + along, up one way, then another, without a word, in thorough confusion, + for the king delights in boyish tricks, which he has learned to play + successfully. Leaving the road and plunging into thickets of tall grass, + the band and Wakungu must run for their lives, to maintain the order of + march, by heading him at some distant point of exit from the jungle; + whilst the Kamraviona, leading the pages and my men, must push head first, + like a herd of buffaloes, through the sharp-cutting grass, at a sufficient + rate to prevent the royal walk from being impeded; and the poor women, + ready to sink with exhaustion, can only be kept in their places by fear of + losing their lives. + </p> + <p> + We had been out the whole day; still he did not tire of these tricks, and + played them incessantly till near sundown, when we entered the palace. + Then the women and Wakungu separating from us, we—that is, the king, + the Kamraviona, pages, and myself—sat down to a warm feast of sweet + potatoes and plantains, ending with pombe and fruit, whilst moist circular + napkins, made in the shape of magnificent wafers out of plantain fibre, + acted at once both the part of water and towel. This over, as the guns had + to be emptied, and it was thought sinful to waste the bullets, four cows + were ordered in and shot by the king. Thus ended the day, my men receiving + one of the cows. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—As Mtesa was tired with his yesterday's work, and would not see + anybody, I took Lugoi and Kahala, with a bundle of beads, to give a return + to the Mgemma for his late treat of pombe. His household men and women + were immensely delighted with us, but more so, they said, for the honour + of the visit. They gave us more pombe, and introduced us to one of + N'yamasore's numerous sisters, who was equally charmed with myself and my + children. The Mgemma did not know how he could treat us properly, he said, + for he was only a poor man; but he would order some fowls, that I might + carry them away. When I refused this offer, because we came to see him, + and not to rob him, he thought it the most beautiful language, and said he + would bring them to the house himself. I added, I hoped he would do so in + company with his wife, which he promised, though he never dared fulfil the + promise; and, on our leaving, set all his servants to escort us beyond the + premises. In the evening, as the king's musicians passed the camp, I + ordered them in to play the milele, and give my men and children a treat + of dancing. The performers received a bundle of beads and went away happy. + </p> + <p> + 9th.—I called on Congow, but found him absent, waiting on the king, + as usual; and the king sent for my big rifle to shoot birds with. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—In consequence of my having explained to the king the effect + of the process of distilling, and the way of doing it, he sent a number of + earthen pots and bugus of pombe that I might produce some spirits for him; + but as the pots sent were not made after the proper fashion, I called at + the palace and waited all day in the hope of seeing him. No one, however, + dared enter his cabinet, where he had been practising "Uganga" all day, + and so the pombe turned sour and useless. Such are the ways of Uganda all + over. + </p> + <p> + 11th.—The king was out shooting; and as nothing else could be done, + I invited Uledi's pretty wife Guriku to eat a mutton breakfast, and teach + my child Meri not to be so proud. In this we were successful; but whether + her head had been turned, as Bombay thought, or what else, we know not; + but she would neither walk, nor talk, nor do anything but lie at full + length all day long, smoking and lounging in thorough indolence. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—I distilled some fresh pombe for the king; and taking it to + him in the afternoon, fired guns to announce arrival. He was not visible, + while fearful shrieks were heard from within, and presently a beautiful + woman, one of the king's sisters, with cockscomb erect, was dragged out to + execution, bewailing and calling on her king, the Kamraviona, and Mzungu, + by turns, to save her life. Would to God I could have done it! but I did + not know her crime, if crime she had committed, and therefore had to hold + my tongue, whilst the Kamraviona, and other Wakungu present, looked on + with utter unconcern, not daring to make the slightest remark. It happened + that Irungu was present in the ante-chamber at this time; and as Maula + came with my party, they had a fight in respect to their merits for having + brought welcome guests to their king. Mtesa, it was argued, had given + N'yamgundu more women and men than he did to Maula, because he was the + first to bring intelligence of our coming, as well as that of K'yengo, and + Suworora's hongo to his king; whilst, finally, he superseded Maula by + taking me out of his charge, and had done a further good service by + sending men on to Karague to fetch both Grant and K'yengo. + </p> + <p> + Maula, although he had received the second reward, had literally done + nothing, whilst Irungu had been years absent at Usui, and finally had + brought a valuable hongo, yet he got less than Maula. This, Irungu said, + was an injustice he would not stand; N'yamgundu fairly earned his reward, + but Maula must have been tricking to get more than himself. He would get a + suitable offering of wire, and lay his complaint in court the first + opportunity. "Pooh, pooh! nonsense!" says Maula, laughing; "I will give + him more wires than you, and then let us see who will win the king's ear." + Upon this the two great children began collecting wire and quarrelling + until the sun went down, and I went home. I did not return to a quiet + dinner, as I had hoped, but to meet the summons of the king. Thinking it + policy to obey, I found him waiting my coming in the palace. He made + apologies for not answering my gun, and tasted some spirits resembling + toddy, which I had succeeded in distilling. He imbibed it with great + surprise; it was wonderful tipple; he must have some more; and, for the + purpose of brewing better, would send the barrel of an old Brown Bess + musket, as well as more pombe and wood in the morning. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—As nothing was done all day, I took the usual promenade in the + Seraglio Park, and was accosted by a very pretty little woman, Kariana, + wife of Dumba, who, very neatly dressed, was returning from a visit. At + first she came trotting after me, then timidly paused, then advanced, and, + as I approached, stood spellbound at my remarkable appearance. At last + recovering herself, she woh-wohed with all the coquetry of a Mganda woman, + and a flirtation followed; she must see my hair, my watch, the contents of + my pockets—everything; but that was not enough. I waved adieu, but + still she followed. I offered my arm, showing her how to take it in + European fashion, and we walked along to the surprise of everybody, as if + we had been in Hyde Park rather than in Central Africa, flirting and + coquetting all the way. I was surprised that no one came to prevent her + forwardness; but not till I almost reached home did any one appear; and + then, with great scolding, she was ordered to return—not, however, + without her begging I would call in and see her on some future occasion, + when she would like to give me some pombe. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—As conflicting reports came about Grant, the king very + courteously, at my request, forwarded letters to him. I passed the day in + distilling pombe, and the evening in calling on Mrs Dumba, with Meri, + Kahala, Lugoi, and a troop of Wanyamuezi women. She was very agreeable; + but as her husband was attending the palace, could not give pombe, and + instead gave my female escort sundry baskets of plaintains and potatoes, + signifying a dinner, and walked half-way home, flirting with me as before. + </p> + <p> + 15th—I called on the king with all the spirits I had made, as well + as the saccharine residue. We found him holding a levee, and receiving his + offerings of a batch of girls, cows, goats, and other things of an + ordinary nature. One of the goats presented gave me an opportunity of + hearing one of the strangest stories I had yet heard in this strange + country: it was a fine for attempted regicide, which happened yesterday, + when a boy, finding the king alone, which is very unusual, walked up to + him and threatened to kill him, because, he said, he took the lives of men + unjustly. The king explained by description and pantomime how the affair + passed. When the youth attacked him he had in his hand the revolving + pistol I had given him, and showed us, holding the pistol to his cheek, + how he had presented the muzzle to the boy, which, though it was unloaded, + so frightened him that he ran away. All the courtiers n'yanzigged + vigorously for the condescension of the king in telling the story. There + must have been some special reason why, in a court where trifling breaches + of etiquette were punished with a cruel death, so grave a crime should + have been so leniently dealt with; but I could not get at the bottom of + the affair. The culprit, a good-looking young fellow of sixteen or + seventeen, who brought in the goat, made his n'yanzigs, stroked the goat + and his own face with his hands, n'yanzigged again with prostrations, and + retired. + </p> + <p> + After this scene, officers announced the startling fact that two white men + had been seen at Kamrasi's, one with a beard like myself, the other + smooth-faced. I jumped at this news, and said, "Of course, they are there; + do let me send a letter to them." I believed it to be Petherick and a + companion whom I knew he was to bring with him. The king, however, damped + my ardour by saying the information was not perfect, and we must wait + until certain Wakungu, whom he sent to search in Unyoro, returned. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—The regions about the palace were all in a state of commotion + to-day, men and women running for their lives in all directions, followed + by Wakungu and their retainers. The cause of all this commotion was a + royal order to seize sundry refractory Wakungu, with their property, + wives, concubines—if such a distinction can be made in this country—and + families all together. At the palace Mtesa had a musical party, playing + the flute occasionally himself. After this he called me aside, and said, + "Now, Bana, I wish you would instruct me, as you have often proposed + doing, for I wish to learn everything, though I have little opportunity + for doing so." Not knowing what was uppermost in his mind, I begged him to + put whatever questions he liked, and he should be answered seriatim—hoping + to find him inquisitive on foreign matters; but nothing was more foreign + to his mind: none of his countrymen ever seemed to think beyond the sphere + of Uganda. + </p> + <p> + The whole conversation turned on medicines, or the cause and effects of + diseases. Cholera, for instance, very much affected the land at certain + seasons, creating much mortality, and vanishing again as mysteriously as + it came. What brought this scourge? and what would cure it? Supposing a + man had a headache, what should he take for it? or a leg ache, or a + stomach-ache, or itch; in fact, going the rounds of every disease he knew, + until, exhausting the ordinary complaints, he went into particulars in + which he was personally much interested; but I was unfortunately unable to + prescribe medicines which produce the physical phenomenon next to his + heart. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—I called upon the king by appointment, and found a large + court, where the Wakungu caught yesterday, and sentenced to execution, + received their reprieve on paying fines of cattle and young damsels—their + daughters. A variety of charms, amongst which were some bits of stick + strung on leather and covered with serpent-skin, were presented and + approved of. Kaggao, a large district officer, considered the second in + rank here, received permission for me to call upon him with my medicines. + I pressed the king again to send men with mine to Kamrasi's to call + Petherick. At first he objected that they would be killed, but finally he + yielded, and appointed Budja, his Unyoro ambassador, for the service. + Then, breaking up the court, he retired with a select party of Wakungu, + headed by the Kamraviona, and opened a conversation on the subject which + is ever uppermost with the king and his courtiers. + </p> + <p> + 18th.—To-day I visited Kaggao with my medicine-chest. He had a local + disease, which he said came to him by magic, though a different cause was + sufficiently obvious, and wanted medicine such as I gave Mkuenda, who + reported that I gave him a most wonderful draught. Unfortunately I had + nothing suitable to give my new patient, but cautioned him to have a care + lest contagion should run throughout his immense establishment, and + explained the whole of the circumstances to him. Still he was not + satisfied; he would give me slaves, cows, or ivory, if I would only cure + him. He was a very great man, as I could see, with numerous houses, + numerous wives, and plenty of everything, so that it was ill-becoming of + him to be without his usual habits. Rejecting his munificent offers, I + gave him a cooling dose of calomel and jalap, which he drank like pombe, + and pronounced beautiful—holding up his hands, and repeating the + words "Beautiful, beautiful! they are all beautiful together! There is + Bana beautiful! his box is beautiful! and his medicine beautiful!"—and, + saying this, led us in to see his women, who at my request were grouped in + war apparel—viz., a dirk fastened to the waist by many strings of + coloured beads. There were from fifty to sixty women present, all very + lady-like, but none of them pretty. Kaggao then informed me the king had + told all his Wakungu he would keep me as his guest four months longer to + see if Petherick came; and should he not by that time, he would give me an + estate, stocked with men, women, and cattle, in perpetuity, so that, if I + ever wished to leave Uganda, I should always have something to come back + to; so I might now know what my fate was to be. Before leaving, Kaggao + presented us with two cows and ten baskets of potatoes. + </p> + <p> + 19th.—I sent a return present of two wires and twelve fundo of beads + of sorts to Kaggao, and heard that the king had gone to show himself off + to his mother dressed Bana fashion. In the evening Katunzi, N'yamasore's + brother, just returned from the Unyoro plunder, called on me whilst I was + at dinner. Not knowing who he was, and surprised at such audacity in + Uganda, for he was the first officer who ever ventured to come near me in + this manner, I offered him a knife and fork, and a share in the repast, + which rather abashed him; for, taking it as a rebuff, he apologised + immediately for the liberty he had taken, contrary to the etiquette of + Uganda society, in coming to a house when the master was at dinner; and he + would have left again had I not pressed him to remain. Katunzi then told + me the whole army had returned from Unyoro, with immense numbers of cows, + women, and children, but not men, for those who did not run away were + killed fighting. He offered me a present of a woman, and pressed me to + call on him. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—Still I found that the king would not send his Wakungu for the + Unyoro expedition, so I called on him about it. Fortunately he asked me to + speak a sentence in English, that he might hear how it sounds; and this + gave me an opportunity of saying, if he had kept his promise by sending + Budja to me, I should have despatched letters to Petherick. This was no + sooner interpreted than he said, if I would send my men to him with + letters in the morning he would forward them on, accompanied with an army. + On my asking if the army was intended to fight, he replied, in short, + "First to feel the way." On hearing this, I strongly advised him, if he + wished the road to be kept permanently open, to try conciliation with + Kamrasi, and send him some trifling present. + </p> + <p> + Now were brought in some thirty-odd women for punishment and execution, + which the king, who of late had been trying to learn Kisuahili, in order + that we might be able to converse together, asked me, in that language, if + I would like to have some of these women; and if so, how many? On my + replying "One," he begged me to have my choice, and a very pretty one was + selected. God only knows what became of the rest; but the one I selected, + on reaching home, I gave to Ilmas, my valet, for a wife. He and all the + other household servants were much delighted with this charming + acquisition; but the poor girl, from the time she had been selected, had + flattered herself she was to be Bana's wife, and became immensely + indignant at the supposed transfer, though from the first I had intended + her for Ilmas, not only to favour him for his past good services, but as + an example to my other men, as I had promised to give them all, provided + they behaved well upon the journey, a "free-man's garden," with one wife + each and a purse of money, to begin a new life upon, as soon as they + reached Zanzibar. The temper of Meri and Kahala was shown in a very + forcible manner: they wanted this maid as an addition to my family, called + her into the hut and chatted till midnight, instructing her not to wed + with Ilmas; and then, instead of turning into bed as usual, they all three + slept upon the ground. My patience could stand this phase of henpecking no + longer, so I called in Manamaka, the head Myamuezi woman, whom I had + selected for their governess, and directed her to assist Ilmas, and put + them to bed "bundling." + </p> + <p> + 21st.—In the morning, before I had time to write letters, the king + invited me to join him at some new tank he was making between his palace + and the residence of his brothers. I found him sitting with his brothers, + all playing in concert on flutes. I asked him, in Kisuahili, if he knew + where Grant was? On replying in the negative, I proposed sending a letter, + which he approved of; and Budja was again ordered to go with an army for + Petherick. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—Mabruki and Bilal, with Budja, started to meet Petherick, and + three more men, with another letter to Grant. I called on the king, who + appointed the 24th instant for an excursion of three days' + hippopotamus-shooting on the N'yanza. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—To-day occurred a brilliant instance of the capricious + restlessness and self-willedness of this despotic king. At noon, pages + hurried in to say that he had started for the N'yanza, and wished me to + follow him without delay. N'yanza, as I have mentioned, merely means a + piece of water, whether a pond, river, or lake; and as no one knew which + N'yanza he meant, or what project was on foot, I started off in a hurry, + leaving everything behind, and walked rapidly through gardens, over hills, + and across rushy swamps, down the west flank of the Murchison Creek, till + 3 p.m., when I found the king dressed in red, with his Wakungu in front + and women behind, travelling along in the confused manner of a pack of + hounds, occasionally firing his rifle that I might know his whereabouts. + He had just, it seems, mingled a little business with pleasure; for + noticing, as he passed, a woman tied by the hands to be punished for some + offence, the nature of which I did not learn, he took the executioner's + duty on himself, fired at her, and killed her outright. + </p> + <p> + On this occasion, to test all his followers, and prove their readiness to + serve him, he had started on a sudden freak for the three days' excursion + on the lake one day before the appointed time, expecting everybody to fall + into place by magic, without the smallest regard to each one's property, + feelings, or comfort. The home must be forsaken without a last adieu, the + dinner untasted, and no provision made for the coming night, in order that + his impetuous majesty should not suffer one moment's disappointment. The + result was natural; many who would have come were nowhere to be found; my + guns, bed, bedding, and note-books, as well as cooking utensils, were all + left behind, and, though sent for, did not arrive till the following day. + </p> + <p> + On arriving at the mooring station, not one boat was to be found, nor did + any arrive until after dark, when, on the beating of drums and firing of + guns, some fifty large ones appeared. They were all painted with red clay, + and averaged from ten to thirty paddles, with long prows standing out like + the neck of a syphon or swan, decorated on the head with the horns of the + Nsunnu (lencotis) antelope, between which was stuck upright a tuft of + feathers exactly like a grenadier's plume. These arrived to convey us + across the mouth of a deep rushy swamp to the royal yachting + establishment, the Cowes of Uganda, distant five hours' travelling from + the palace. We reached the Cowes by torchlight at 9 p.m., when the king + had a picnic dinner with me, turned in with his women in great comfort, + and sent me off to a dreary hut, where I had to sleep upon a grass-strew + floor. I was surprised we had to walk so far, when, by appearance, we + might have boated it from the head of the creek all the way down; but, on + inquiry, was informed of the swampy nature of the ground at the head of + the creek precluded any approach to the clear water there, and hence the + long overland journey, which, though fatiguing to the unfortunate women, + who had to trot the whole way behind Mtesa's four-mile-an-hour strides, + was very amusing. The whole of the scenery—hill, dale, and lake—was + extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in my escort compared the view to their + own beautiful Poani (coast); but in my opinion it far surpassed anything I + ever saw, either from the sea or upon the coast of Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very + uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats. The + breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of + roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes + ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked—but more usually like + a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would + take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged, and + swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over was then + divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe served as + tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think themselves + very lucky if they ever got a drop of it. + </p> + <p> + Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way + he can—Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through + plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in + diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached—a picture of the Rio + scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that + lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little + hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo, playing + with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work, announced the + king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the shore—but not as in + England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a lord at home, invites + the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of so many pretty faces. + Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions written in his face, leaps + over the gunwale into the water—ducking his head for fear of being + accused of gazing on the fair sex, which is death—and bides + patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain leaves, looking like + grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and wideawake, conducted the + arrangements, ordering all to their proper places—the women, in + certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others, whilst I sat in the + same boat with him at his feet, three women holding mbugus of pombe + behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into play, and he was prompt in + carrying out the directions he got from myself to approach the + hippopotami. But the waters were too large and the animals too shy, so we + toiled all the day without any effect, going only once ashore to picnic; + not for the women to eat—for they, poor things, got nothing—but + the king, myself, the pages, and the principal Wakungu. As a wind-up to + the day's amusement, the king led the band of drums, changed the men + according to their powers, put them into concert pitch, and readily + detected every slight irregularity, showing himself a thorough musician. + </p> + <p> + This day requires no remark, everything done being the counterpart of + yesterday, excepting that the king, growing bolder with me in consequence + of our talking together, became more playful and familiar—amusing + himself, for instance, sometimes by catching hold of my beard as the + rolling of the boat unsteadied him. + </p> + <p> + We started early in the usual manner; but after working up and down the + creek, inspecting the inlets for hippopotami, and tiring from want of + sport, the king changed his tactics, and, paddling and steering himself + with a pair of new white paddles, finally directing the boats to an island + occupied by the Mgussa, or Neptune of the N'yanza, not in person—for + Mgussa is a spirit—but by his familiar or deputy, the great medium + who communicates the secrets of the deep to the king of Uganda. In another + sense, he might be said to be the presiding priest of the source of the + mighty Nile, and as such was, of course, an interesting person for me to + meet. The first operation on shore was picnicking, when many large bugus + of pombe were brought for the king; next, the whole party took a walk, + winking through the trees, and picking fruit, enjoying themselves + amazingly, till, by some unlucky chance, one of the royal wives, a most + charming creature, and truly one of the best of the lot, plucked a fruit + and offered it to the king, thinking, doubtless, to please him greatly; + but he, like a madman, flew into a towering passion, said it was the first + time a woman ever had the impudence to offer him anything, and ordered the + pages to seize, bind, and lead her off to execution. + </p> + <p> + These words were no sooner uttered by the king than the whole bevy of + pages slipped their cord turbans from their heads, and rushed, like a pack + of cupid beagles upon the fairy queen, who, indignant at the little + urchins daring to touch her majesty, remonstrated with the king, and tried + to beat them off like flies, but was soon captured, overcome, and dragged + away, crying, in the names of the Kamraviona and Mzungu (myself), for help + and protection; whilst Lubuga, the pet sister, and all the other women, + clasped the king by his legs, and, kneeling, implored forgiveness for + their sister. The more they craved for mercy, the more brutal he became, + till at last he took a heavy stick and began to belabour the poor victim + on the head. + </p> + <p> + Hitherto I had been extremely careful not to interfere with any of the + king's acts of arbitrary cruelty, knowing that such interference, at an + early stage, would produce more harm than good. This last act of + barbarism, however, was too much for my English blood to stand; and as I + heard my name, Mzungu, imploringly pronounced, I rushed at the king, and, + staying his uplifted arm, demanded from him the woman's life. Of course I + ran imminent risk of losing my own in thus thwarting the capricious + tyrant; but his caprice proved the friend of both. The novelty of + interference even made him smile, and the woman was instantly released. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding on through the trees of this beautiful island, we next turned + into the hut of the Mgussa's familiar, which at the farther end was + decorated with many mystic symbols amongst others a paddle, the badge of + his high office—and for some time we sat chatting, when pombe was + brought, and the spiritual medium arrived. He was dressed Wichwezi + fashion, with a little white goat-skin apron, adorned with numerous + charms, and used a paddle for a mace or walking stick. He was not an old + man, though he affected to be so—walking very slowly and + deliberately, coughing asthmatically, glimmering with his eyes, and + mumbling like a witch. With much affected difficulty he sat at the end of + the hut beside the symbols alluded to, and continued his coughing full + half an hour, when his wife came in in the same manner, without saying a + word, and assumed the same affected style. The king jokingly looked at me + and laughed, and then at these strange creatures, by turn, as much as to + say, What do you think of them? but no voice was heard save that of the + old wife, who croaked like a frog for water, and, when some was brought, + croaked again because it was not the purest of the lake's produce—had + the first cup changed, wetted her lips with the second, and hobbled away + in the same manner as she came. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture the Mgussa's familiar motioned the Kamraviona and several + officers to draw around him, when, in a very low tone, he gave them all + the orders of the deep, and walked away. His revelations seemed + unpropitious, for we immediately repaired to our boats and returned to our + quarters. Here we no sooner arrived than a host of Wakungu, lately + returned from the Unyoro war, came to pay their respects to the king: they + had returned six days or more, but etiquette had forbidden their + approaching majesty sooner. Their successes had been great, their losses, + nil, for not one man had lost his life fighting. To these men the king + narrated all the adventures of the day; dwelling more particularly on my + defending his wife's life, whom he had destined for execution. This was + highly approved of by all; and they unanimously said Bana knew what he was + about, because he dispenses justice like a king in his own country. + </p> + <p> + Early in the morning a great hue and cry was made because the Wanguana had + been seen bathing in the N'yanza naked, without the slightest regard to + decency. We went boating as usual all day long, sometimes after + hippopotami, at others racing up and down the lake, the king and Wakungu + paddling and steering by turns, the only break to this fatigue being when + we went ashore to picnic, or the king took a turn at the drums. During the + evening some of the principal Wakungu were collected to listen to an + intellectual discourse on the peculiarities of the different women in the + royal establishment, and the king in good-honour described the benefits he + had derived from this pleasant tour on the water. + </p> + <p> + Whilst I was preparing my Massey's log to show the use of it to the king, + he went off boating without me; and as the few remaining boats would not + take me off because they had received no orders to do so, I fired guns, + but, getting no reply, went into the country hoping to find game; but, + disappointed in that also, I spent the first half of the day with a + hospitable old lady, who treated us to the last drop of pombe in her house—for + the king's servants had robbed her of nearly everything—smoked her + pipe with me, and chatted incessantly on the honour paid her by the white + king's visit, as well as of the horrors of Uganda punishment, when my + servants told her I saved the life of one queen. Returning homewards, the + afternoon was spent at a hospitable officer's, who would not allow us to + depart until my men were all fuddled with pombe, and the evening setting + in warned us to wend our way. On arrival at camp, the king, quite shocked + with himself for having deserted me, asked me if I did not hear his guns + fire. He had sent twenty officers to scour the country, looking for me + everywhere. He had been on the lake the whole day himself, and was now + amusing his officers with a little archery practice, even using the bow + himself, and making them shoot by turns. A lucky shot brought forth + immense applause, all jumping and n'yanzigging with delight, whether it + was done by their own bows or the king's. + </p> + <p> + A shield was the mark, stuck up at only thirty paces; still they were such + bad shots that they hardly ever hit it. Now tired of this slow sport, and + to show his superior prowess, the king ordered sixteen shields to be + placed before him, one in front of the other, and with one shot from + Whitworth pierced the whole of them, the bullet passing through the bosses + of nearly every one. "Ah!" says the king, strutting about with gigantic + strides, and brandishing the rifle over his head before all his men, "what + is the use of spears and bows? I shall never fight with anything but guns + in the future." These Wakungu, having only just then returned from + plundering Unyoro, had never before seen their king in a chair, or anybody + sitting, as I was, by his side; and it being foreign to their notions, as + well as, perhaps, unpleasant to their feelings, to find a stranger sitting + higher than themselves, they complained against this outrage to custom, + and induced the king to order my dethronement. The result was, as my iron + stool was objectionable, I stood for a moment to see that I thoroughly + understood their meaning; and then showing them my back, walked + straightway home to make a grass throne, and dodge them that way. + </p> + <p> + There was nothing for dinner last night, nothing again this morning, yet + no one would go in to report this fact, as rain was falling, and the king + was shut up with his women. Presently the thought struck me that the + rifle, which was always infallible in gaining me admittance at the palace, + might be of the same service now. I therefore shot a dove close to the + royal abode, and, as I expected, roused the king at once, who sent his + pages to know what the firing was about. When told the truth—that I + had been trying to shoot a dish of doves for breakfast, as I could get + neither meat nor drink from his kitchen—the head boy, rather + guessing than understanding what was told him, distorted my message, and + said to the king, as I could not obtain a regular supply of food from his + house, I did not wish to accept anything further at his hands, but + intended foraging for the future in the jungles. The king, as might be + imagined, did not believe the boy's story, and sent other pages to + ascertain the truth of the case, bidding them listen well, and beware of + what they were about. This second lot of boys conveyed the story rightly, + when the king sent me a cow. As I afterwards heard, he cut off the ears of + the unfortunate little mischief-maker for not making a proper use of those + organs; and then, as the lad was the son of one of his own officers he was + sent home to have the sores healed. After breakfast the king called me to + go boating, when I used my grass throne, to the annoyance of the + attendants. This induced the king to say before them, laughing, "Bana, you + see, is not to be done; he is accustomed to sit before kings, and sit he + will." Then by way of a change, he ordered all the drums to embark and + play upon the waters; whilst he and his attendants paddled and steered by + turns, first up the creek, and then down nearly to the broad waters of the + lake. + </p> + <p> + There was a passage this way, it was said, leading up to Usoga, but very + circuitous, on account of reefs or shoals, and on the way the Kitiri + island was passed; but no other Kitiri was known to the Waganda, though + boats went sometimes coasting down the western side of the lake to + Ukerewe. The largest island on the lake is the Sese, <a href="#linknote-20" + name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> off the + mouth of the Katonga river, where another of the high priests of the + Neptune of the N'yanza resides. The king's largest vessels are kept there, + and it is famous for its supply of mbugu barks. We next went on shore to + picnic, when a young hippopotamus, speared by harpoon, one pig, and a + pongo or bush-boc, were presented to the king. I now advised boat-racing, + which was duly ordered, and afforded much amusement as the whole fifty + boats formed in line, and paddle furiously to the beat of drum to the goal + which I indicated. + </p> + <p> + The day was done. In great glee the king, ever much attached to the + blackguard Maula, in consequence of his amusing stories, appointed him to + the office of seizer, or chief kidnapper of Wakungu; observing that, after + the return of so many officers from war, much business in that line would + naturally have to be done, and there was none so trustworthy now at court + to carry out the king's orders. All now went to the camp; but what was my + astonishment on reaching the hut to find every servant gone, along with + the pots, pans, meat, everything; and all in consequence of the king's + having taken the drums on board, which, being unusual, was regarded as one + of his delusive tricks, and a sign of immediate departure. He had told no + one he was going to the N'yanza, and now it was thought he would return in + the same way. I fired for my supper, but fired in vain. Boys came out, by + the king's order to inquire what I wanted, but left again without doing + anything further. + </p> + <p> + At my request the king sent off boats to inquire after the one that left, + or was supposed to have left, for Grant on the 3d of March, and he then + ordered the return home, much to my delight; for, beautiful as the N'yanza + was, the want of consideration for other people's comfort, the tiring, + incessant boating, all day long and every day, in the sun, as well as the + king's hurry-scurry about everything he undertook to do, without the + smallest forethought, preparation, or warning, made me dream of my + children, and look forward with pleasure to rejoining them. Strange as it + may appear to Englishmen, I had a sort of paternal love for those little + blackamoors as if they had been my offspring; and I enjoyed the simple + stories that their sable visitors told me every day they came over to + smoke their pipes, which they did with the utmost familiarity, helping + themselves from my stores just as they liked. + </p> + <p> + Without any breakfast, we returned by the same route by which we had come, + at four miles an hour, till half the way was cleared, when the king said, + laughing, "Bana, are you hungry?"—a ridiculous question after + twenty-four hours of starvation, which he knew full well—and led the + way into a plantain-grove, where the first hut that was found was turned + inside out for the king's accommodation, and picnic was prepared. As, + however, he ordered my portion to be given outside with the pages', and + allowed neither pombe or water, I gave him the slip, and walked hurriedly + home, where I found Kahala smirking, and apparently glad to see us, but + Meri shamming ill in bed, whilst Manamaka, the governess, was full of + smiles and conversation. She declared Meri had neither tasted food or + slept since my departure, but had been retching all the time. Dreadfully + concerned at the doleful story I immediately thought of giving relief with + medicines, but neither pulse, tongue, nor anything else indicated the + slightest disorder; and to add to these troubles, Ilmas's woman had tried + during my absence to hang herself, because she would not serve as servant + but wished to be my wife; and Bombay's wife, after taking a doze of + quinine, was delivered of a still-born child. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—I visited the king, at his request, with the medicine-chest. He + had caught a cold. He showed me several of his women grievously affected + with boils, and expected me to cure them at once. I then went home, and + found twenty men who had passed Grant, coming on a stretcher from Karague, + without any of the rear property. Meri, still persistent, rejected + strengthening medicines, but said, in a confidential manner, if I would + give her a goat to sacrifice to the Uganga she would recover in no time. + There was something in her manner when she said this that I did not like—it + looked suspicious; and I contented myself by saying, "No, I am a wiser + doctor than any in these lands; if anybody could cure you, that person is + myself: and further, if I gave you a goat to sacrifice, God would be angry + with both of us for our superstitious credulity; you must therefore say no + more about it." + </p> + <p> + 2d.—The whole country around the palace was in a state of commotion + to-day, from Maula and his children hunting down those officers who had + returned from the war, yet had not paid their respects to the king at the + N'yanza, because they thought they would not be justified in calling on + him so quickly after their arrival. Maula's house, in consequence of this, + was full of beef and pombe; whilst, in his courtyard, men, women, and + children, with feet in stocks, very like the old parish stocks in England, + waited his pleasure, to see what demands he would make upon them as the + price of their release. After anxiously watching, I found out that Meri + was angry with me for not allowing Ilmas's woman to live in my house; and, + to conquer my resolution against it—although I ordered it with a + view to please Ilmas, for he was desperately in love with her—she + made herself sick by putting her finger down her throat. I scolded her for + her obstinacy. She said she was ill—it was not feigned; and if I + would give her a goat to sacrifice she would be well at once; for she had + looked into the magic horn already, and discovered that if I have her a + goat for that purpose it would prove that I loved her, and her health + would be restored to her at once. Hallo! Here was a transformation from + the paternal position into that of a henpecked husband! Somebody, I smelt + at once, had been tampering with my household whilst I was away. I + commenced investigations, and after a while found out that Rozaro's sister + had brought a magician belonging to her family into the hut during my + absence, who had put Meri up to this trick of extorting a goat from me, in + order that he might benefit by it himself, for the magician eats the + sacrifice, and keeps the skin. + </p> + <p> + I immediately ordered him to be seized and bound to the flag-staff, whilst + Maula, Uledi, Rozaro, and Bombay were summoned to witness the process of + investigation. Rozaro flew into a passion, and tried to release the + magician as soon as he saw him, affecting intense indignation that I + should take the law into my own hands when one of Rumanika's subjects was + accused; but only lost his dignity still more on being told he had + acknowledged his inability to control his men so often when they had + misbehaved, that I scorned to ask his assistance any longer. He took huff + at this, and, as he could not help himself, walked away, leaving us to do + as we liked. The charge was fully proved. The impudent magician, without + leave, and contrary to all the usages of the country, had entered and set + my house against itself during my absence, and had schemed to rob me of a + goat. I therefore sentenced him to fifty lashes—twenty-five for the + injury he had inflicted on my by working up a rebellion in my house, and + the remaining twenty-five for attempting larceny—saying, as he had + wanted my goat and its skin, so now in return I wanted his skin. These + words were no sooner pronounced than the wretched Meri cried out against + it, saying all the fault was hers: "Let the stick skin my back, but spare + my doctor; it would kill me to see him touched." + </p> + <p> + This appeal let me see that there was something in the whole matter too + deep and intricate to be remedied by my skill. I therefore dismissed her + on the spot, and gave her, as a sister and free woman, to Uledi and his + pretty Mhmula wife, giving Bombay orders to carry the sentences into + execution. After walking about till after dark, on returning to the empty + house, I had some misgivings as to the apparent cruelty of abandoning one + so helpless to the uncertainties of this wicked world. Ilmas's woman also + ran away, doubtless at the instigation of Rozaro's sister, for she had + been denied any further access to the house as being at the bottom of all + this mischief. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—I was haunted all night by my fancied cruelty, and in the + morning sent its victim, after Uganda fashion, some symbolical presents, + including a goat, in token of esteem; a black blanket, as a sign of + mourning; a bundle of gundu anklets; and a packet of tobacco, in proof of + my forgiveness. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV. Palace, Uganda—Continued + </h2> + <p> + Reception of a Victorious Army at Court—Royal Sport—A Review + of the Troops—Negotiations for the Opening of the Road along the + Nile—Grant's Return—Pillagings—Court Marriages—The + King's Brothers—Divinations and Sacrifices—The Road granted at + last—The Preparations for continuing the Expedition—The + Departure. + </p> + <p> + I now received a letter from Grant to say he was coming by boat from + Kitangule, and at once went to the palace to give the welcome news to the + king. The road to the palace I found thronged with people; and in the + square outside the entrance there squatted a multitude of attendants, + headed by the king, sitting on a cloth, dressed in his national costume, + with two spears and a shield by his side. On his right hand the pages sat + waiting for orders, while on his left there was a small squatting cluster + of women, headed by Wichwezis, or attendant sorceresses, offering pombe. + In front of the king, in form of a hollow square, many ranks deep, sat the + victorious officers, lately returned from the war, variously dressed; the + nobles distinguished by their leopard-cat skins and dirks, the commoners + by coloured mbugu and cow or antelope skin cloaks; but all their faces and + arms were painted red, black, or smoke-colour. Within the square of men, + immediately fronting the king, the war-arms of Uganda were arranged in + three ranks; the great war-drum, covered with a leopard-skin, and standing + on a large carpeting of them, was placed in advance; behind this, propped + or hung on a rack of iron, were a variety of the implements of war in + common use, offensive and defensive, as spears—of which two were of + copper, the rest iron—and shields of wood and leather; whilst in the + last row or lot were arranged systematically, with great taste and + powerful effect, the supernatural arms, the god of Uganda, consisting of + charms of various descriptions and in great numbers. Outside the square + again, in a line with the king, were the household arms, a very handsome + copper kettledrum, of French manufacture, surmounted on the outer edge + with pretty little brass bells depending from swan-neck-shaped copper + wire, two new spears, a painted leather shield, and magic wands of various + devices, deposited on a carpet of leopard-skins—the whole scene + giving the effect of true barbarous royalty in its uttermost magnificence. + </p> + <p> + Approaching, as usual, to take my seat beside the king, some slight + sensation was perceptible, and I was directed to sit beyond the women. The + whole ceremonies of this grand assemblage were now obvious. Each + regimental commandant in turn narrated the whole services of his party, + distinguishing those subs who executed his orders well and successfully + from those who either deserted before the enemy or feared to follow up + their success. The king listened attentively, making, let us suppose, very + shrewd remarks concerning them; when to the worthy he awarded pombe, + helped with gourd-cups from large earthen jars, which has n'yanzigged for + vehemently; and to the unworthy execution. When the fatal sentence was + pronounced, a terrible bustle ensued, the convict wrestling and defying, + whilst the other men seized, pulled and tore the struggling wretch from + the crowd, bound him hands and head together, and led or rather tumbled + him away. + </p> + <p> + After a while, and when all business was over, the king begged me to + follow him into the palace. He asked again for stimulants—a matter + ever uppermost in his mind—and would not be convinced that such + things can do him no possible good, but would in the end be deleterious. + Grant's letter was then read to him before his women, and I asked for the + dismissal of all the Wanyambo, for they had not only destroyed my peace + and home, but were always getting me into disrepute by plundering the + Waganda in the highways. No answer was given to this; and on walking home, + I found one of the king's women at my hut, imploring protection against + the Wanyambo, who had robbed and bruised her so often, she could not stand + such abuse any longer. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—I sent Maula, early in the morning, with the plundered woman, + and desired him to request that the Wanyambo might be dismissed. He + returned, saying he delivered my message, but no reply was given. I then + searched for the king, and found him at his brothers' suite of huts + playing the flute before them. On taking my seat, he proudly pointed to + two vultures which he had shot with bullet, saying to his brothers, + "There, do you see these birds? Bana shoots with shot, but I kill with + bullets." To try him, I then asked for leave to go to Usoga, as Grant was + so far off; but he said, "No, wait until he comes, and you shall both go + together then; you fancy he is far off, but I know better. One of my men + saw him coming along carried on a stretcher." I said, "No; that must be a + mistake, for he told me by letter he would come by water." + </p> + <p> + Heavy rain now set in, and we got under cover; but the brothers never + moved, some even sitting in the streaming gutter, and n'yanzigging + whenever noticed. The eldest brother offered me his cup of pombe, thinking + I would not drink it; but when he saw its contents vanishing fast, he + cried "lekerow!" (hold fast!) and as I pretended not to understand him, + continuing to drink, he rudely snatched the cup from my lips. Alternate + concerts with the brothers, and conversation about hunting, in consequence + of a bump caused by a fall with steeple-chasing, which as discovered on my + forehead, ended this day's entertainment. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—As all the Wanguana went foraging, I was compelled to stop at + home. The king, however, sent an officer for Grant, because I would not + believe in his statement yesterday that he was coming by land; and I also + sent a lot of men with a litter to help him on, and bring me an answer. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—I went to the palace at the king's command. He kept us waiting + an hour, and then passing out by a side gate, beckoned us to follow. He + was dressed in European clothes, with his guns and tin box of clothes + leading the way. His first question was, "Well, Bana, where are your guns? + for I have called you to go shooting." "The pages never said anything + about shooting, and therefore the guns were left behind." Totally + unconcerned, the king walked on to his brothers, headed by a band and + attendants, who were much lauded for being ready at a moment's notice. A + grand flute concert was then played, one of the younger brothers keeping + time with a long hand-drum; then the band played; and dancing and duets + and singing followed. After the usual presentations, fines, and + n'yanziggings, I asked for leave to go and meet Grant by water, but was + hastily told that two boats had been sent for him when we returned from + the N'yanza, and that two runners, just returned from Karague, said he was + on the way not far off. The child-king then changed his dress for another + suit of clothes for his brothers to admire, and I retired, much annoyed, + as he would neither give pombe for myself, nor plantains for my men: and I + was further annoyed on my arrival at home, to find the Wanguana mobbing my + hut and clamouring for food, and calling for an order to plunder if I did + not give them beads, which, as the stock had run short, I could only do by + their returning to Karague for the beads stored there; and, even if they + were obtained, it was questionable if the king would revoke his order + prohibiting the sale of provisions to us. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—To-day I called at the queen's, but had to wait five hours in + company with some attendants, to whom she sent pombe occasionally; but + after waiting for her nearly all day, they were dismissed, because excess + of business prevented her seeing them, though I was desired to remain. I + asked these attendants to sell me food for beads, but they declared they + could not without obtaining permission. In the evening the queen stumped + out of her chambers and walked to the other end of her palace, where the + head or queen of the Wichwezi women lived, to whom everybody paid the + profoundest respect. On the way I joined her, she saying, in a state of + high anger, "You won't call on me, now I have given you such a charming + damsel: you have quite forgotten us in your love of home." Of course + Meri's misdemeanour had to be explained, when she said, "As that is the + case, I will give you another; but you must take Meri out of the country, + else she will bring trouble on us; for, you know, I never gave girls who + lived in the palace to any one in my life before, because they would tell + domestic affairs not proper for common people to know." I then said my + reason for not seeing her before was, that the four times I had sent + messengers to make an appointment for the following day, they had been + repulsed from her doors. This she would not believe, but called me a + story-teller in very coarse language, until the men who had been sent were + pointed out to her, and they corroborated me. + </p> + <p> + The Wichwezi queen met her majesty with her head held very high, and + instead of permitting me to sit on my box of grass, threw out a bundle of + grass for that purpose. All conversation was kept between the two queens; + but her Wichwezi majesty had a platter of clay-stone brought, which she + ate with great relish, making a noise of satisfaction like a happy + guinea-pig. She threw me a bit, which to the surprise of everybody, I + caught and threw it into my mouth, thinking it was some confection; but + the harsh taste soon made me spit it out again, to the amusement of the + company. On returning home I found the king had requested me to call on + him as soon as possible with the medicine-chest. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—Without a morsel to eat for dinner last night, or anything this + morning, we proceeded early to the palace, in great expectation that the + medicines in request would bring us something; but after waiting all day + till 4 p.m., as the king did not appear, leaving Bombay behind, I walked + away to shoot a guinea-fowl within earshot of the palace. The scheme was + successful, for the report of the gun which killed the bird reached the + king's ear, and induced him to say that if Bana was present he would be + glad to see him. This gave Bombay an opportunity of telling all the facts + of the case; which were no sooner heard than the king gave his starving + guests a number of plantains, and vanished at once, taking my page Lugoi + with him, to instruct him in Kisuahili (Zanzibar language). + </p> + <p> + 9th.—As the fruit of last night's scheme, the king sent us four + goats and two cows. In great good-humour I now called on him, and found + him walking about the palace environs with a carbine, looking eagerly for + sport, whilst his pages dragged about five half-dead vultures tied in a + bundle by their legs to a string. "These birds," said he, tossing his head + proudly, "were all shot flying, with iron slugs, as the boys will tell + you. I like the carbine very well, but you must give me a double smooth + gun." This I promised to give when Grant arrived, for his good-nature in + sending so many officers to fetch him. + </p> + <p> + We next tried for guinea-fowl, as I tell him they are the game the English + delight in; but the day was far spent, and none could be found. A boy then + in attendance was pointed out, as having seen Grant in Uddu ten days ago. + If the statement were true, he must have crossed the Katonga. But though + told with great apparent circumspection, I did not credit it, because my + men sent on the 15th ultimo for a letter to ascertain his whereabouts had + not returned, and they certainly would have done so had he been so near. + To make sure, the king then proposed sending the boy again with some of my + men; but this I objected to as useless, considering the boy had spoken + falsely. Hearing this, the king looked at the boy and then at the women in + turn, to ascertain what they thought of my opinion, whereupon the boy + cried. Late in the evening the sly little girl Kahala changed her cloth + wrapper for a mbugu, and slipped quietly away. I did not suspect her + intention, because of late she had appeared much more than ordinary happy, + behaving to me in every respect like a dutiful child to a parent. A search + was made, and guns fired, in the hopes of frightening her back again, but + without effect. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—I had promised that this morning I would teach the king the + art of guinea-fowl shooting, and when I reached the palace at 6 a.m., I + found him already on the ground. He listened to the tale of the missing + girl, and sent orders for her apprehension at once; then proceeding with + the gun, fired eight shots successively at guinea-birds sitting on trees, + but missed them all. After this, as the birds were scared away, and both + iron shot and bullets were expended, he took us to his dressing-hut, went + inside himself, attended by full-grown naked women, and ordered a + breakfast of pork, beef, fish, and plantains to be served me outside on + the left of the entrance; whilst a large batch of his women sat on the + right side, silently coquetting, and amusing themselves by mimicking the + white man eating. Poor little Lugoi joined in the repast, and said he + longed to return to my hut, for he was half starved here, and no one took + any notice of him; but he was destined to be a royal page, for the king + would not part with him. A cold fit then seized me, and as I asked for + leave to go, the king gave orders for one of his wives to be flogged. The + reason for this act of brutality I did not discover; but the moment the + order was issued, the victim begged the pages to do it quickly, that the + king's wrath might be appeased; and in an instant I saw a dozen boys tear + their cord-turbans from their heads pull her roughly into the middle of + the court, and belabour her with sticks, whilst she lay floundering about, + screeching to me for protection. All I did was to turn my head away and + walk rapidly out of sight, thinking it better not to interfere again with + the discipline of the palace; indeed, I thought it not improbable that the + king did these things sometimes merely that his guests might see his + savage power. On reaching home I found Kahala standing like a culprit + before my door. She would not admit, what I suspected, that Meri had + induced her to run away; but said she was very happy in my house until + yester-evening, when Rozaro's sister told her she was very stupid living + with the Mzungu all alone, and told her to run away; which she did, taking + the direction of N'yamasore's, until some officers finding her, and + noticing beads on her neck, and her hair cut, according to the common + court fashion, in slopes from a point in the forehead to the breadth of + her ears, suspected her to be one of the king's women, and kept her in + confinement all night, till Mtesa's men came this morning and brought her + back again. As a punishment, I ordered her to live with Bombay; but my + house was so dull again from want of some one to eat dinner with me, that + I remitted the punishment, to her great delight. + </p> + <p> + 11th.—To-day I received letters from Grant, dated 22d., 25th, 28th + April and 2d May. They were brought by my three men, with Karague pease, + flour, and ammunition. He was at Maula's house, which proved the king's + boy to be correct; for the convoy, afraid of encountering the voyage on + the lake, had deceived my companion and brought him on by land, like true + negroes. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—I sent the three men who had returned from Grant to lay a + complaint against the convoy, who had tricked him out of a pleasant + voyage, and myself out of the long-wished-for survey of the lake. They + carried at the same time a present of a canister of shot from me to the + king. Delighted with this unexpected prize, he immediately shot fifteen + birds flying, and ordered the men to acquaint me with his prowess. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—To-day the king sent me four cows and a load of butter as a + return-present for the shot, and allowed one of his officers, at my + solicitation, to go with ten of my men to help Grant on. He also sent a + message that he had just shot thirteen birds flying. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—Mabuki and Bilal returned with Budja and his ten children from + Unyoro, attended by a deputation of four men sent by Kamrasi, who were + headed by Kidgwiga. Mtesa, it now transpired, had followed my advice of + making friendship with Kamrasi by sending two brass wires as a hongo + instead of an army, and Kamrasi in return, sent him two elephant-tusks. + Kidgwiga said Petherick's party was not in Unyoro—they had never + reached there, but were lying at anchor off Gani. Two white men only had + been seen—one, they said, a hairy man, the other smooth-faced; they + were as anxiously inquiring after us as we were after them: they sat on + chairs, dressed like myself, and had guns and everything precisely like + those in my hut. On one occasion they sent up a necklace of beads to + Kamrasi, and he, in return, gave them a number of women and tusks. If I + wished to go that way, Kamrasi would forward me on to their position in + boats; for the land route, leading through Kidi, was a jungle of ten days, + tenanted by a savage set of people, who hunt everybody, and seize + everything they see. + </p> + <p> + This tract is sometimes, however, traversed by the Wanyoro and Gani + people, who are traders in cows and tippet monkey-skins, stealthily + travelling at night; but they seldom attempt it from fear of being + murdered. Baraka and Uledi, sent from Karague on the 30th January, had + been at Kamrasi's palace upwards of a month, applying for the road to + Gani, and as they could not get that, wished to come with Mabruki to me; + but this Kamrasi also refused, on the plea that, as they had come from + Karague, so they must return there. Kamrasi had heard of my shooting with + Mtesa, as also of the attempt made by Mabruki and Uledi to reach Gani via + Usoga. He had received my present of beads from Baraka, and, in addition, + took Uledi's sword, saying, "If you do not wish to part with it, you must + remain a prisoner in my country all your life, for you have not paid your + footing." Mabruki then told me he was kept waiting at a village, one + hour's walk from Kamrasi's palace, five days before they were allowed to + approach his majesty; but when they were seen, and the presents exchanged, + they were ordered to pack off the following morning, as Kamrasi said the + Waganda were a set of plundering blackguards. + </p> + <p> + This information, to say the least of it, was very embarrassing—a + mixture of good and bad. Petherick, I now felt certain, was on the + look-out for us; but his men had reached Kamrasi's, and returned again + before Baraka's arrival. Baraka was not allowed to go on to him and + acquaint him of our proximity, and the Waganda were so much disliked in + Unyoro, that there seemed no hopes of our ever being able to communicate + by letter. To add to my embarrassments, Grant had not been able to survey + the lake from Kitangule, nor had Usoga and the eastern side of the lake + been seen. + </p> + <p> + 15th.—I was still laid up with the cold fit of the 10th, which + turned into a low kind of fever. I sent Bombay to the king to tell him the + news, and ask him what he thought of doing next. He replied that he would + push for Gani direct; and sent back a pot of pombe for the sick man. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—The king to-day inquired after my health, and, strange to say, + did not accompany his message with a begging request. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—My respite, however, was not long. At the earliest possible + hour in the morning the king sent begging for things one hundred times + refused, supposing, apparently, that I had some little reserve store which + I wished to conceal from him. + </p> + <p> + 18th and 19th.—I sent Bombay to the palace to beg for pombe, as it + was the only thing I had an appetite for, but the king would see no person + but myself. He had broken his rifle washing-rod, and this must be mended, + the pages who brought it saying that no one dared take it back to him + until it was repaired. A guinea-fowl was sent after dark for me to see, as + a proof that the king was a sportsman complete. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—The king going out shooting borrowed my powder-horn. The + Wanguana mobbed the hut and bullied me for food, merely because they did + not like the trouble of helping themselves from the king's garden, though + they knew I had purchased their privilege to do so at the price of a gold + chronometer and the best guns England could produce. + </p> + <p> + 21st.—I now, for the first time, saw the way in which the king + collected his army together. The highroads were all thronged with Waganda + warriors, painted in divers colours, with plantain-leaf bands round their + heads, scanty goat-skin fastened to their loins, and spears and shield in + their hands, singing the tambure or march, ending with a repetition of the + word Mkavia, or Monarch. They surpassed in number, according to Bombay, + the troops and ragamuffins enlisted by Sultain Majid when Sayyid Sweni + threatened to attack Zanzibar; in fact, he never saw such a large army + collected anywhere. + </p> + <p> + Bombay, on going to the palace, hoping to obtain plantains for the men, + found the king holding a levee, for the purpose of despatching this said + army somewhere, but where no one would pronounce. The king, then, + observing my men who had gone to Unyoro together with Kamrasi's, + questioned them on their mission; and when told that no white men were + there, he waxed wrathful, and said it was a falsehood, for his men had + seen them, and could not be mistaken. Kamrasi, he said, must have hidden + them somewhere, fearful of the number of guns which now surrounded him; + and, for the same reason, he told lies, yes, lies—but no man living + shall dare tell himself lies; and now, as he could not obtain his object + by fair means, he would use arms and force it out. Then, turning to + Bombay, he said, "What does your master think of this business?" upon + which Bombay replied, according to his instructions, "Bana wishes nothing + done until Grant arrives, when all will go together." On this the king + turned his back and walked away. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—Kitunzi called on me early, because he heard I was sick. I + asked him why the Waganda objected to my sitting on a chair; but, to avoid + the inconvenience of answering a troublesome question, without replying, + he walked off, saying he heard a noise in the neighbourhood of the palace + which must be caused by the king ordering some persons to be seized, and + his presence was so necessary he could not wait another moment. My men + went for plantains to the palace and for pombe on my behalf; but the king, + instead of giving them anything, took two fez caps off their heads, + keeping them to himself, and ordered them to tell Bana all his beer was + done. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—Kidgwiga called on me to say Kamrasi so very much wanted the + white men at Gani to visit him, he had sent a hongo of thirty tusks to the + chief of that country in hopes that it would insure their coming to see + him. He also felt sure if I went there his king would treat me with the + greatest respect. This afforded an opportunity for putting in a word of + reconciliation. I said that it was at my request that Mtesa sent Kamrasi a + present; and so now, if Kamrasi made friends with the Waganda, there would + be no difficulty about the matter. + </p> + <p> + 24th.—The army still thronged the highways, some going, others + coming, like a swarm of ants, the whole day long. Kidgwiga paid another + visit, and I went to the palace without my gun, wishing the king to fancy + all my powder was done, as he had nearly consumed all my store; but the + consequence was that, after waiting the whole day, I never saw him at all. + In the evening pages informed me that Grant had arrived at N'yama Goma, + one march distant. + </p> + <p> + 25th.—I prepared twenty men, with a quarter of mutton for Grant to + help him on the way, but they could not go without a native officer, lest + they should be seized, and no officer would lead the way. The king came + shooting close to my hut and ordered me out. I found him marching Rozaro + about in custody with four other Wanyambo, who, detected plundering by + Kitunzi, had set upon and beaten him severely. The king, pointing them out + to me, said, he did not like the system of plundering, and wished to know + if it was the practice in Karague. Of course I took the opportunity to + renew my protest against the plundering system; but the king, changing the + subject, told me the Wazungu were at Gani inquiring after us, and wishing + to come here. To this I proposed fetching them myself in boats, but he + objected, saying he would send men first, for they were not farther off to + the northward than the place he sent boats to, to bring Grant. He said he + did not like Unyoro, because Kamrasi hides himself like a Neptune in the + Nile, whenever his men go on a visit there, and instead of treating his + guests with respect, he keeps them beyond the river. For this reason he + had himself determined on adopting the passage by Kidi. + </p> + <p> + I was anxious, of course, to go on with the subject thus unexpectedly + opened, but, as ill-luck would have it, an adjutant was espied sitting on + a tree, when a terrible fuss and excitement ensued. The women were ordered + one way and the attendants another, whilst I had to load the gun on the + best way I could with the last charge and a half left in the king's pouch. + Ten grains were all he would have allowed himself, reserving the residue, + without reflecting that a large bird required much shot; and he was + shocked to find me lavishly use the whole, and still say it was not + enough. + </p> + <p> + The bird was then at a great height, so that the first shot merely tickled + him, and drove him to another tree. "Woh! woh!" cried the king, "I am sure + he is hit; look there, look there;" and away he rushed after the bird; + down with one fence, then with another, in the utmost confusion, everybody + trying to keep his proper place, till at last the tree to which the bird + had flown was reached, and then, with the last charge of shot, the king + killed his first nundo. The bird, however, did not fall, but lay like a + spread eagle in the upper branches. Wasoga were called to climb the tree + and pull it down; whilst the king, in ecstasies of joy and excitement, + rushed up and down the potato-field like a mad bull, jumping and plunging, + waving and brandishing the gun above his head; whilst the drums beat, the + attendants all woh-wohed, and the women, joining with their lord, rushed + about lullalooing and dancing like insane creatures. Then began + congratulations and hand-shakings, and, finally, the inspection of the + bird, which, by this time, the Wasoga had thrown down. Oh! oh! what a + wonder! Its wings outspread reached further than the height of a man; we + must go and show it to the brothers. Even that was not enough—we + must show it to the mother; and away we all rattled as fast as our legs + could carry us. + </p> + <p> + Arrived at the queen's palace, out of respect to his mother, the king + changed his European clothes for a white kid-skin wrapper, and then walked + in to see her, leaving us waiting outside. By this time Colonel Congow, in + his full-dress uniform, had arrived in the square outside, with his + regiment drawn up in review order. The king, hearing the announcement, at + once came out with spears and shield, preceded by the bird, and took post, + standing armed, by the entrance, encircled by his staff, all squatting, + when the adjutant was placed in the middle of the company. Before us was a + large open square, with the huts of the queen's Kamraviona or + commander-in-chief beyond. The battalion, consisting of what might be + termed three companies, each containing 200 men, being drawn up on the + left extremity of the parade-ground, received orders to march past in + single file from the right of companies, at a long trot, and re-form again + at the other end of the square. + </p> + <p> + Nothing conceivable could be more wild or fantastic than the sight which + ensued—the men all nearly naked, with goat or cat skins depending + from their girdles, and smeared with war colours according to the taste of + each individual; one-half of the body red or black, the other blue, not in + regular order—as, for instance, one stocking would be red, the other + black, whilst the breeches above would be the opposite colours, and so + with the sleeves and waistcoat. Every man carried the same arms—two + spears and one shield—held as if approaching an enemy, and they thus + moved in three lines of single rank and file, at fifteen to twenty paces + asunder, with the same high action and elongated step, the ground leg only + being bent, to give their strides the greater force. After the men had all + started, the captains of companies followed, even more fantastically + dressed; and last of all came the great Colonel Congow, a perfect Robinson + Crusoe, with his long white-haired goat-skins, a fiddle-shaped leather + shield, tufted with white hair at all six extremities, bands of long hair + tied below the knees, and a magnificent helmet, covered with rich beads of + every colour, in excellent taste, surmounted with a plume of crimson + feathers, from the centre of which rose a bent stem, tufted with + goat-hair. Next they charged in companies to and fro; and, finally, the + senior officers came charging at their king, making violent professions of + faith and honesty, for which they were applauded. The parade then broke + up, and all went home. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—One of king Mtesa's officers now consenting to go to N'yama + Goma with some of my men, I sent Grant a quarter of goat. The reply + brought to me was, that he was very thankful for it; that he cooked it and + ate it on the spot; and begged I would see the king, to get him released + from that starving place. Rozaro was given over to the custody of Kitunzi + for punishment. At the same time, the queen, having heard of the outrages + committed against her brother and women, commanded that neither my men nor + any of Rozaro's should get any more food at the palace; for as we all came + to Uganda in one body, so all alike were, by her logic, answerable for the + offence. I called at the palace for explanation but could not obtain + admittance because I would not fire the gun. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—The king sent to say he wanted medicine to propitiate + lightning. I called and described the effects of a lightning-rod, and + tried to enter into the Unyoro business, wishing to go there at once + myself. He objected, because he had not seen Grant, but appointed an + officer to go through Unyoro on to Gani, and begged I would also send men + with letters. Our talk was agreeably interrupted by guns in the distance + announcing Grant's arrival, and I took my leave to welcome my friend. How + we enjoyed ourselves after so much anxiety and want of one another's + company, I need not describe. For my part, I was only too rejoiced to see + Grant could limp about a bit, and was able to laugh over the picturesque + and amusing account he gave me of his own rough travels. + </p> + <p> + 28th.—The king in the morning sent Budja, his ambassador, with + Kamrasi's Kidgwiga, over to me for my men and letters, to go to Kamrasi's + again and ask for the road to Gani. I wished to speak to the king first, + but they said they had no orders to stop for that, and walked straight + away. I sent the king a present of a double-barrelled gun and ammunition, + and received in answer a request that both Grant and myself would attend a + levee, which he was to hold in state, accompanied by his bodyguard, as + when I was first presented to him. In the afternoon we proceeded to court + accordingly, but found it scantily attended; and after the first sitting, + which was speedily over, retired to another court, and saw the women. Of + this dumb show the king soon got tired; he therefore called for his iron + chair, and entered into conversation, at first about the ever-engrossing + subject of stimulants, till we changed it by asking him how he liked the + gun? He pronounced it a famous weapon, which he would use intensely. We + then began to talk in a general way about Suwarora and Rumanika, as well + as the road through Unyamuezi, which we hoped would soon cease to exist, + and be superseded by one through Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + It will be kept in view that the hanging about at this court, and all the + perplexing and irritating negotiations here described, had always one end + in view—that of reaching the Nile where it pours out of the N'yanza, + as I was long certain that it did. Without the consent and even the aid of + this capricious barbarian I was now talking to, such a project was + hopeless. I naturally seized every opportunity for putting in a word in + the direction of my great object, and here seemed to be an opportunity. We + now ventured on a plump application for boats that we might feel our way + to Gani by water, supposing the lake and river to be navigable all the + way; and begged Kitunzi might be appointed to accompany us, in order that + whatever was done might be done all with good effect in opening up a new + line of commerce, by which articles of European manufacture might find a + permanent route to Uganda. It was "no go," however. The appeal, though + listened to, and commented on, showing that it was well understood, got no + direct reply. It was not my policy to make our object appear too important + to ourselves, so I had to appear tolerably indifferent, and took the + opportunity to ask for my paint-box, which he had borrowed for a day and + had kept in his possession for months. I got no answer to that request + either, but was immediately dunned for the compass, which had been + promised on Grant's arrival. Now, with a promise that the compass would be + sent him in the morning, he said he would see what pombe his women could + spare us; and, bidding good evening, walked away. + </p> + <p> + 29th.—I sent Bombay with the compass, much to the delight of the + king, who no sooner saw it than he jumped and woh-wohed with intense + excitement at the treasure he had gained, said it was the greatest present + Bana had ever given him, for it was the thing by which he found out all + the roads and countries—it was, in fact, half his knowledge; and the + parting with it showed plainly that Bana entertained an everlasting + friendship for him. The king then called Maula, and said, "Maula, indeed + you have spoken the truth; there is nothing like this instrument," etc., + etc., repeating what he had already told Bombay. In the evening, the king, + accompanied by all his brothers, with iron chair and box, came to visit + us, and inspected all Grant's recently brought pictures of the natives, + with great acclamation. We did not give him anything this time, but, + instead, dunned him for the paint-box, and afterwards took a walk to my + observatory hill, where I acted as guide. On the summit of this hill the + king instructed his brothers on the extent of his dominions; and as I + asked where Lubari or God resides, he pointed to the skies. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—The king at last sent the paint-box, with some birds of his + own shooting, which he wished painted. He also wanted himself drawn, and + all Grant's pictures copied. Then, to wind up these mild requests, a + demand was made for more powder, and that all our guns be sent to the + palace for inspection. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—I drew a large white and black hornbill and a green pigeon + sent by himself; but he was not satisfied; he sent more birds, and wanted + to see my shoes. The pages who came with the second message, however, + proving impertinent, got a book flung at their heads, and a warning to be + off, as I intended to see the king myself, and ask for food to keep my + ever-complaining Wanguana quiet. Proceeding to the palace, as I found + Mtesa had gone out shooting, I called on the Kamraviona, complained that + my camp was starving, and as I had nothing left to give the king said I + wished to leave the country. Ashamed of its being supposed that his king + would not give me any food because I had no more presents to give him, the + Kamraviona, from his own stores, gave me a goat and pombe, and said he + would speak to the king on the subject. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—I drew for the king a picture of a guinea-fowl which he shot in + the early morning, and proceeded on a visit with Grant to the queen's, + accompanied only by seven men, as the rest preferred foraging for + themselves, to the chance of picking up a few plantains at her majesty's. + After an hour's waiting, the queen received us with smiles, and gave pombe + and plantains to her new visitor, stating pointedly she had none for me. + There was deep Uganda policy in this: it was for the purpose of treating + Grant as a separate, independent person, and so obtaining a fresh hongo or + tax. Laughing at the trick, I thanked her for the beer, taking it + personally on my household, and told her when my property arrived from + Karague, she should have a few more things as I promised her; but the men + sent had neither brought my brother in a vessel, as they were ordered, not + did they bring my property from Karague. + </p> + <p> + Still the queen was not content: she certainly expected something from + Grant, if it was ever so little, for she was entitled to it, and would not + listen to our being one house. Turning the subject, to put in a word for + my great object, I asked her to use her influence in opening the road to + Gani, as, after all, that was the best way to get new things into Uganda. + Cunning as a fox, the queen agreed to this project, provided Grant + remained behind, for she had not seen enough of him yet, and she would + speak to her son about the matter in the morning. + </p> + <p> + This was really the first gleam of hope, and I set to putting our future + operations into a shape that might lead to practical results without + alarming our capricious host. I thought that whilst I could be employed in + inspecting the river, and in feeling the route by water to Gani, Grant + could return to Karague by water, bringing up our rear traps, and, in + navigating the lake, obtain the information he had been frustrated in + getting by the machinations of his attendant Maribu. It was agreed to, and + all seemed well; for there was much left to be done in Uganda and Usoga, + if we could only make sure of communicating once with Petherick. Before + going home we had some more polite conversation, during which the queen + played with a toy in the shape of a cocoa du mer, studded all over with + cowries: this was a sort of doll, or symbol of a baby and her dandling it + was held to indicate that she would ever remain a widow. In the evening + the king returned all our rifles and guns, with a request for one of them; + as also for the iron chair he sat upon when calling on us, an iron + bedstead, and the Union Jack, for he did not honour us with a visit for + nothing; and the head page was sent to witness the transfer of the goods, + and see there was no humbug about it. It was absolutely necessary to get + into a rage, and tell the head page we did not come to Uganda to be + swindled in that manner, and he might tell the king I would not part with + one of them. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—K'yengo, who came with Grant, now tried to obtain an interview + with the king, but could not get admission. I had some further trouble + about the disposal of the child Meri, who said she never before had lived + in a poor man's house since she was born. I thought to content her by + offering to marry her to one of Rumanika's sons, a prince of her own + breed, but she would not listen to the proposal. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—For days past, streams of men have been carrying faggots of + firewood, clean-cut timber, into the palaces of the king, queen, and the + Kamraviona; and to-day, on calling on the king, I found him engaged having + these faggots removed by Colonel Mkavia's regiment from one court into + another, this being his way of ascertaining their quantity, instead of + counting them. About 1600 men were engaged on this service, when the king, + standing on a carpet in front of the middle hut of the first court, with + two spears in his hand and his dog by his side, surrounded by his brothers + and a large staff of officers, gave orders for the regiment to run to and + fro in column, that he might see them well; then turning to his staff, + ordered them to run up and down the regiment, and see what they thought of + it. This ridiculous order set them all flying, and soon they returned, + charging at the king with their sticks, dancing and jabbering that their + numbers were many, he was the greatest king on earth, and their lives and + services were his for ever. The regiment now received orders to put down + their faggots, and, taking up their own sticks in imitation of spears, + followed the antics of their officers in charging and vociferating. Next, + Mkavia presented five hairy Usoga goats, n'yanzigging and performing the + other appropriate ceremonies. On asking the king if he had any knowledge + of the extent of his army, he merely said, "How can I, when these you see + are a portion of them just ordered here to carry wood?" + </p> + <p> + The regiment was now dismissed; but the officers were invited to follow + the king into another court, when he complimented them on assembling so + many men; they, instead of leaving well alone, foolishly replied they were + sorry they were not more numerous, as some of the men lived so far away + they shirked the summons; Maula, then, ever forward in mischief, put a cap + on it by saying, if he could only impress upon the Waganda to listen to + his orders, there would never be a deficiency. Upon which the king said, + "If they fail to obey you, they disobey me; for I have appointed you as my + orderly, and thereby you personify the orders of the king." Up jumped + Maula in a moment as soon as these words were uttered, charging with his + stick, then floundering and n'yanzigging as if he had been signally + rewarded. I expected some piece of cruel mischief to come of all this, but + the king, in his usual capricious way, suddenly rising, walked off to a + third court, followed only by a select few. + </p> + <p> + Here, turning to me, he said, "Bana, I love you, because you have come so + far to see me, and have taught me so many things since you have been + here." Rising, with my hand to my heart, and gracefully bowing at this + strange announcement—for at that moment I was full of hunger and + wrath—I intimated I was much flattered at hearing it, but as my + house was in a state of starvation, I trusted he would consider it. + "What!" said he, "do you want goats?" "Yes, very much." The pages then + received orders to furnish me with ten that moment, as the king's farmyard + was empty, and he would reimburse them as soon as more confiscations took + place. But this, I said, was not enough; the Wanguana wanted plantains, + for they had received none these fifteen days. "What!" said the king, + turning to his pages again, "have you given these men no plantains, as I + ordered? Go and fetch them this moment, and pombe too, for Bana." + </p> + <p> + The subject then turned on the plan I had formed of going to Gani by + water, and of sending Grant to Karague by the lake; but the king's mind + was fully occupied with the compass I had given him. He required me to + explain its use, and then broke up the meeting. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—Viarungi, an officer sent by Rumanika to escort Grant to + Uganda, as well as to apply to king Mtesa for a force to fight his brother + Rogero, called on me with Rozaro, and said he had received instructions + from his king to apply to me for forty cows and two slave-boys, because + the Arabs who pass through his country to Uganda always make him a present + of that sort after receiving them from Mtesa. After telling him we English + never give the presents they have received away to any one, and never make + slaves, but free them, I laid a complaint against Rozaro for having + brought much trouble and disgrace upon my camp, as well as much trouble on + myself, and begged that he might be removed from my camp. Rozaro then + attempted to excuse himself, but without success, and said he had already + detached his residence from my camp, and taken up a separate residence + with Viarungi, his superior officer. + </p> + <p> + I called on the king in the afternoon, and found the pages had already + issued plantains for my men and pombe for myself. The king addressed me + with great cordiality, and asked if I wished to go to Gani. I answered him + with all promptitude,—Yes, at once, with some of his officers + competent to judge of the value of all I point out to them for future + purposes in keeping the road permanently open. His provoking + capriciousness, however, again broke in, and he put me off till his + messengers should return from Unyoro. I told him his men had gone in vain, + for Budja left without my letter or my men; and further, that the river + route is the only one that will ever be of advantage to Uganda, and the + sooner it was opened up the better. I entreated him to listen to my + advice, and send some of my men to Kamrasi direct, to acquaint him with my + intention to go down the river in boats to him; but I could get no answer + to this. Bombay then asked for cows for the Wanguana, getting laughed at + for his audacity, and the king broke up the court and walked away. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—I started on a visit to the queen, but half-way met Congow, who + informed me he had just escorted her majesty from his house, where she was + visiting, to her palace. By way of a joke and feeler, I took it in my head + to try, by taking a harmless rise out of Congow, whether the Nile is + understood by the natives to be navigable near its exit from the N'yanza. + I told him he had been appointed by the king to escort us down the river + to Gani. He took the affair very seriously, delivering himself to the + following purport: "Well, then, my days are numbered; for if I refuse + compliance I shall lose my head; and if I attempt to pass Kamrasi's, which + is on the river, I shall lose my life; for I am a marked man there, having + once led an army past his palace and back again. It would be no use + calling it a peaceful mission, as you propose; for the Wanyoro distrust + the Waganda to such an extent, they would fly to arms at once." + </p> + <p> + Proceeding to the queen's palace, we met Murondo, who had once travelled + to the Masai frontier. He said it would take a month to go in boats from + Kira, the most easterly district in Uganda, to Masai, where there is + another N'yanza, joined by a strait to the big N'yanza, which king Mtesa's + boats frequent for salt; but the same distance could be accomplished in + four days overland, and three days afterwards by boat. The queen, after + keeping us all day waiting, sent three bunches of plantains and a pot of + pombe, with a message that she was too tired to receive visitors, and + hoped we would call another day. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—I met Pokino, the governor-general of Uddu, in the morning's + walk, who came here at the same time as Grant to visit the king, and was + invited into his house to drink pombe. His badge of office is an iron + hatchet, inlaid with copper and handled with ivory. He wished to give us a + cow, but put it off for another day, and was surprised we dared venture + into his premises without permission from the king. After this, we called + at the palace, just as the king was returning from a walk with his + brothers. He saw us, and sent for Bana. We entered, and presented him with + some pictures, which he greatly admired, looked at close and far, showed + to the brothers, and inspected again. Pokino at this time came in with a + number of well-made shields, and presented them grovelling and + n'yanzigging; but though the governor of an important province, who had + not been seen by the king for years, he was taken no more notice of than + any common Mkungu. A plan of the lake and Nile, which I brought with me to + explain our projects for reaching Karague and Gani, engaged the king's + attention for a while; but still he would not agree to let anything be + done until the messenger returned from Unyoro. Finding him inflexible, I + proposed sending a letter, arranging that his men should be under the + guidance of my men after they pass Unyoro on the way to Gani; and this was + acceded to, provided I should write a letter to Petherick by the morrow. I + then tried to teach the king the use of the compass. To make a stand for + it, I turned a drum on its head, when all the courtiers flew at me as if + to prevent an outrage, and the king laughed. I found that, as the + instrument was supposed to be a magic charm of very wonderful powers, my + meddling with it and treating it as an ordinary movable was considered a + kind of sacrilege. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—I wrote a letter to Petherick, but the promised Wakungu never + came for it. As K'yengo was ordered to attend court with Rumanika's hongo, + consisting of a few wires, small beads, and a cloth I gave him, as well as + a trifle from Nnanji, I sent Bombay, in place of going myself, to remind + the king of his promises for the Wakungu to Gani, as well as for boats to + Karague, but a grunt was the only reply which my messenger said he + obtained. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—Calling at the palace, I found the king issuing for a walk, and + joined him, when he suddenly turned round in the rudest manner, re-entered + his palace, and left me to go home without speaking a word. The capricious + creature then reissued, and, finding me gone, inquired after me, presuming + I ought to have waited for him. + </p> + <p> + 9th.—During the night, when sleeping profoundly, some person + stealthily entered my hut and ran off with a box of bullets towards the + palace, but on the way dropped his burden. Maula, on the way home, + happening to see it, and knowing it to be mine, brought it back again. I + stayed at home, not feeling well. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—K'yengo paid his hongo in wire to the king, and received a + return of six cows. Still at home, an invalid, I received a visit from + Meri, who seemed to have quite recovered herself. Speaking of her present + quarters, she said she loved Uledi's wife very much, thinking birds of a + feather ought to live together. She helped herself to a quarter of mutton, + and said she would come again. + </p> + <p> + 11th.—To-day Viarungi, finding Rozaro's men had stolen thirty cows, + twelve slaves, and a load of mbugu from the Waganda, laid hands on them + himself for Rumanika, instead of giving them to King Mtesa. Such are the + daily incidents among our neighbours. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—At night a box of ammunition and a bag of shot, which were + placed out as a reserve present for the king, to be given on our + departure, were stolen, obviously by the king's boys, and most likely by + the king's orders; for he is the only person who could have made any use + of them, and his boys alone know the way into the hut; besides which, the + previous box of bullets was found on the direct road to the palace, while + it was well known that no one dared to touch an article of European + manufacture without the consent of the king. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—I sent a message to the king about the theft, requiring him, + if an honest man, to set his detectives to work, and ferret it out; his + boys, at the same time, to show our suspicions, were peremptorily + forbidden ever to enter the hut again. Twice the king sent down a hasty + message to say he was collecting all his men to make a search, and, if + they do not succeed, the Mganga would be sent; but nothing was done. The + Kamraviona was sharply rebuked by the king for allowing K'yengo to visit + him before permission was given, and thus defrauding the royal exchequer + of many pretty things, which were brought for majesty alone. At night the + rascally boys returned again to plunder, but Kahala, more wakeful than + myself, heard them trying to untie the door-handle, and frightened them + away in endeavouring to awaken me. + </p> + <p> + 14th and 15th.—Grant, doing duty for me, tried a day's penance at + the palace, but though he sat all day in the ante-chamber, and musicians + were ordered into the presence, nobody called for him. K'yengo was sent + with all his men on a Wakungu-seizing expedition,—a good job for + him, as it was his perquisite to receive the major part of the plunder + himself. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—I sent Kahala out of the house, giving her finally over to + Bombay as a wife, because she preferred playing with dirty little children + to behaving like a young lady, and had caught the itch. This was much + against her wish, and the child vowed she would not leave me until force + compelled her; but I had really no other way of dealing with the remnant + of the awkward burden which the queen's generosity had thrown on me. + K'yengo went to the palace with fifty prisoners; but as the king had taken + his women to the small pond, where he has recently placed a tub canoe for + purposes of amusement, they did no business. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—I took a first convalescent walk. The king, who was out + shooting all day, begged for powder in the evening. Uledi returned from + his expedition against a recusant officer at Kituntu, bringing with him a + spoil of ten women. It appeared that the officer himself had bolted from + his landed possessions, and as they belonged to "the church," or were in + some way or other sacred from civil execution, they could not be touched, + so that Uledi lost an estate which the king had promised him. We heard + that Ilmas, wife of Majanja, who, as I already mentioned, had achieved an + illustrious position by services at the birth of the king, had been sent + to visit the late king Sunna's tomb, whence, after observing certain trees + which were planted, and divining by mystic arts what the future state of + Uganda required, she would return at a specific time, to order the king at + the time of his coronation either to take the field with an army, to make + a pilgrimage, or to live a life of ease at home; whichever of these + courses the influence of the ordeal at the grave might prompt her to + order, must be complied with by the king. + </p> + <p> + 18th.—I called at the palace with Grant, taking with us some + pictures of soldiers, horses, elephants, etc. We found the guard fighting + over their beef and plantain dinner. Bombay remarked that this daily + feeding on beef would be the lot of the Wanguana if they had no religious + scruples about the throat-cutting of animals for food. This, I told him, + was all their own fault, for they have really no religion or opinions of + their own; and had they been brought up in England instead of Africa, it + would have been all the other way with them as a matter of course; but + Bombay replied, "We could no more throw off the Mussulman faith than you + could yours." A man with a maniacal voice sang and whistled by turns. + Katumba, the officer of the guards, saw our pictures, and being a + favourite, acquainted the king, which gained us an admittance. + </p> + <p> + We found his majesty sitting on the ground, within a hut, behind a portal, + encompassed by his women, and took our seats outside. At first all was + silence, till one told the king we had some wonderful pictures to show + him; in an instant he grew lively, crying out, "Oh, let us see them!" and + they were shown, Bombay explaining. Three of the king's wives then came + in, and offered him their two virgin sisters, n'yanzigging incessantly, + and beseeching their acceptance, as by that means they themselves would + become doubly related to him. Nothing, however, seemed to be done to + promote the union, until one old lady, sitting by the king's side, who was + evidently learned in the etiquette and traditions of the court, said, + "Wait and see if he embraces, otherwise you may know he is not pleased." + At this announcement the girls received a hint to pass on, and the king + commenced bestowing on them a series of huggings, first sitting on the lap + of one, whom he clasped to his bosom, crossing his neck with hers to the + right, then to the left, and, having finished with her, took post in the + second one's lap, then on that of the third, performing on each of them + the same evolutions. He then retired to his original position, and the + marriage ceremony was supposed to be concluded, and the settlements + adjusted, when all went on as before. + </p> + <p> + The pictures were again looked at, and again admired, when we asked for a + private interview on business, and drew the king outside. I then begged he + would allow me, whilst his men were absent at Unyoro, to go to the Masai + country, and see the Salt Lake at the north-east corner of the N'yanza, + and to lend me some of his boats for Grant to fetch powder and beads from + Karague. This important arrangement being conceded by the king more + promptly than we expected, a cow, plantains, and pombe were requested; but + the cow only was given, though our men were said to be feeding on grass. + Taking the king, as it appeared, in a good humour, to show him the abuses + arising from the system of allowing his guests to help themselves by force + upon the highways, I reported the late seizures made of thirty cows and + twelve slaves by the Wanyambo; but, though surprised to hear the news, he + merely remarked that there were indeed a great number of visitors in + Uganda. During this one day we heard the sad voice of no less than four + women, dragged from the palace to the slaughter-house. + </p> + <p> + 19th.—To follow up our success in the marching question and keep the + king to his promise, I called at his palace, but found he had gone out + shooting. To push my object further, I then marched off to the queen's to + bid her good-bye, as if we were certain to leave the next day; but as no + one would dare to approach her cabinet to apprise her of our arrival, we + returned home tired and annoyed. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—The king sent for us at noon; but when we reached the palace + we found he had started on a shooting tour; so, to make the best of our + time, we called again upon the queen for the same purpose as yesterday, as + also to get my books of birds and animals, which, taken merely to look at + for a day or so, had been kept for months. After hours of waiting, her + majesty appeared standing in an open gateway; beckoned us to advance, and + offered pombe; then, as two or three drops of rain fell, she said she + could not stand the violence of the weather, and forthwith retired without + one word being obtained. An officer, however, venturing in for the books, + at length I got them. + </p> + <p> + 21st.—To-day I went to the palace, but found no one; the king was + out shooting again. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—We resolved to-day to try on a new political influence at the + court. Grant had taken to the court of Karague a jumping-jack, to amuse + the young princes; but it had a higher destiny, for it so fascinated the + king Rumanika himself that he would not part with it—unless, indeed, + Grant would make him a big one out of a tree which was handed to him for + the purpose. We resolved to try the influence of such a toy on king Mtesa, + and brought with us, in addition, a mask and some pictures. But although + the king took a visiting card, the gate was never opened to us. Finding + this, and the day closing, we deposited the mask and pictures on a throne, + and walked away. We found that we had thus committed a serious breach of + state etiquette; for the guard, as soon as they saw what we had done, + seized the Wanguana for our offences in defiling the royal seat, and would + have bound them, had they not offered to return the articles to us. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—Early in the morning, hearing the royal procession marching off + on a shooting excursion, we sent Bombay running after it with the mask and + pictures, to aquaint the king with our desire to see him, and explain that + we had been four days successively foiled in attempts to find him in his + palace, our object being an eager wish to come to some speedy + understanding about the appointed journeys to the Salt Lake and Karague. + The toys produced the desired effect; for the king stopped and played with + them, making Bombay and the pages don the masks by turns. He appointed the + morrow for an interview, at the same time excusing himself for not having + seen us yesterday on the plea of illness. In the evening Kahala absconded + with another little girl of the camp in an opposite direction from the one + she took last time; but as both of them wandered about not knowing where + to go to, and as they omitted to take off all their finery, they were soon + recognised as in some way connected with my party, taken up, and brought + into camp, where they were well laughed at for their folly, and laughed in + turn at the absurdity of their futile venture. + </p> + <p> + 24th.—Hoping to keep the king to his promise, I went to the palace + early, but found he had already gone to see his brothers, so followed him + down, and found him engaged playing on a harmonicon with them. Surprised + at my intrusion, he first asked how I managed to find him out; then went + on playing for a while; but suddenly stopping to talk with me, he gave me + an opportunity of telling him I wished to send Grant off to Karague, and + start myself for Usoga and the Salt Lake in the morning. "What! going + away?" said the king, as if he had never heard a word about it before; and + then, after talking the whole subject over again, especially dwelling on + the quantity of powder I had in store at Karague, he promised to send the + necessary officers for escorting us on our respective journeys in the + morning. + </p> + <p> + The brothers' wives then wished to see me, and came before us, when I had + to take off my hat and shoes as usual, my ready compliance inducing the + princes to pass various compliments of my person and disposition. The + brothers then showed me a stool made of wood after the fashion of our + sketching-stool, and a gun-cover of leather, made by themselves, of as + good workmanship as is to be found in India. The king then rose, followed + by his brothers, and we all walked off to the pond. The effect of + stimulants was mooted, as well as other physiological phenomena, when a + second move took us to the palace by torchlight, and the king showed a + number of new huts just finished and beautifully made. Finally, he settled + down to a musical concert, in which he took the lead himself. At eight + o'clock, being tired and hungry, I reminded the king of his promises, and + he appointed the morning to call on him for the Wakungu, and took leave. + </p> + <p> + 25th.—Makinga, hearing of the intended march through Usoga, was + pleased to say he would like to join my camp and spend his time in buying + slaves and ivory there. I went to the palace for the promised escort, but + was no sooner announced by the pages than the king walked off into the + interior of his harem, and left me no alternative but to try my luck with + the Kamraviona, who, equally proud with his master, would not answer my + call,—and so another day was lost. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—This morning we had the assuring intelligence from Kaddu that + he had received orders to hold himself in readiness for a voyage to + Karague in twenty boats with Grant, but the date of departure was not + fixed. The passage was expected to be rough, as the water off the mouth of + the Kitangule Kagera (river) always runs high, so that no boats can go + there except at night, when the winds of day subside, and are replaced by + the calms of night. I called at the palace, but saw nothing of the king, + though the court was full of officials; and there were no less than 150 + women, besides girls, goats, and various other things, seizures from + refractory state officers, who, it was said, had been too proud to present + themselves at court for a period exceeding propriety. + </p> + <p> + All these creatures, I was assured, would afterwards be given away as + return-presents for the hongos or presents received from the king's + visitors. No wonder the tribes of Africa are mixed breeds. Amongst the + officers in waiting was my friend Budja, the ambassador that had been sent + to Unyoro with Kidgwiga, Kamrasi's deputy. He had returned three days + before, but had not yet seen the king. As might have been expected, he + said he had been anything but welcomed in Unyoro. Kamrasi, after keeping + him half-starved and in suspense eight days, sent a message—for he + would not see him—that he did not desire any communication with + blackguard Waganda thieves, and therefore advised him, if he valued his + life, to return by the road by which he came as speedily as possible. + Turning to Congow, I playfully told him that, as the road through Unyoro + was closed, he would have to go with me through Usoga and Kidi; but the + gallant colonel merely shuddered, and said that would be a terrible + undertaking. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—The king would not show, for some reason or other, and we + still feared to fire guns lest he should think our store of powder + inexhaustible, and so keep us here until he had extorted the last of it. I + found that the Waganda have the same absurd notion here as the Wanyambo + have in Karague, of Kamrasi's supernatural power in being able to divide + the waters of the Nile in the same manner as Moses did the Red Sea. + </p> + <p> + 28th.—The king sent a messenger-boy to inform us that he had just + heard from Unyoro that the white men were still at Gani inquiring after + us; but nothing was said of Budja's defeat. I sent Bombay immediately off + to tell him we had changed our plans, and now simply required a large + escort to accompany us through Usoga and Kidi to Gani, as further delay in + communicating with Petherick might frustrate all chance of opening the + Nile trade with Uganda. He answered that he would assemble all his + officers in the morning to consult with them on the subject, when he hoped + we would attend, as he wished to further our views. A herd of cows, about + eighty in number, were driven in from Unyoro, showing that the silly king + was actually robbing Kamrasi at the same time that he was trying to treat + with him. K'yengo informed us that the king, considering the surprising + events which had lately occurred at his court, being very anxious to pry + into the future, had resolved to take a very strong measure for + accomplishing that end. This was the sacrifice of a child by cooking, as + described in the introduction—a ceremony which it fell to K'yengo to + carry out. + </p> + <p> + 29th.—To have two strings to my bow, and press our departure as + hotly as possible, I sent first Frij off with Nasib to the queen, + conveying, as a parting present, a block-tin brush-box, a watch without a + key, two sixpenny pocket-handkerchiefs, and a white towel, with an + intimation that we were going, as the king had expressed his desire of + sending us to Gani. Her majesty accepted the present, finding fault with + the watch for not ticking like the king's, and would not believe her son + Mtesa had been so hasty in giving us leave to depart, as she had not been + consulted on the subject yet. Setting off to attend the king at his + appointed time, I found the Kamraviona already there, with a large court + attendance, patiently awaiting his majesty's advent. As we were all + waiting on, I took a rise out of the Kamraviona by telling him I wanted a + thousand men to march with me through Kidi to Gani. Surprised at the + extent of my requisition, he wished to know if my purpose was fighting. I + made him a present of the great principle that power commands respect, and + it was to prevent any chance of fighting that we required so formidable an + escort. His reply was that he would tell the king; and he immediately rose + and walked away home. + </p> + <p> + K'yengo and the representatives of Usui and Karague now arrived by order + of the king to bid farewell, and received the slaves and cattle lately + captured. As I was very hungry, I set off home to breakfast. Just as I had + gone, the provoking king inquired after me, and so brought me back again, + though I never saw him the whole day. K'yengo, however, was very + communicative. He said he was present when Sunna, with all the forces he + could muster, tried to take the very countries I now proposed to travel + through; but, though in person exciting his army to victory, he could make + nothing of it. He advised my returning to Karague, when Rumanika would + give me an escort through Nkole to Unyoro; but finding that did not suit + my views, as I swore I would never retrace one step, he proposed my going + by boat to Unyoro, following down the Nile. + </p> + <p> + This, of course, was exactly what I wanted; but how could king Mtesa, + after the rebuff he had received from Kamrasi be induced to consent to it? + My intention, I said, was to try the king on the Usoga and Kidi route + first, then on the Masai route to Zanzibar, affecting perfect indifference + about Kamrasi; and all those failing—which, of course, they would—I + would ask for Unyoro as a last and only resource. Still I could not see + the king to open my heart to him, and therefore felt quite nonplussed. + "Oh," says K'yengo, "the reason why you do not see him is merely because + he is Ashamed to show his face, having made so many fair promises to you + which he knows he can never carry out: bide your time, and all will be + well." At 4 p.m., as no hope of seeing the king was left, all retired. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—Unexpectedly, and for reasons only known to himself, the king + sent us a cow and load of butter, which had been asked for many days ago. + The new moon seen last night kept the king engaged at home, paying his + devotions with his magic horns or fetishes in the manner already + described. The spirit of this religion—if such it can be called—is + not so much adoration of a Being supreme and beneficent, as a tax to + certain malignant furies—a propitiation, in fact, to prevent them + bringing evil on the land, and to insure a fruitful harvest. It was rather + ominous that hail fell with violence, and lightning burnt down one of the + palace huts, while the king was in the midst of his propitiatory + devotions. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—As Bombay was ordered to the palace to instruct the king in the + art of casting bullets, I primed him well to plead for the road, and he + reported to me the results, thus: First, he asked one thousand men to go + through Kidi. This the king said was impracticable, as the Waganda had + tried it so often before without success. Then, as that could not be + managed, what would the king devise himself? Bana only proposed the Usoga + and Kidi route, because he thought it would be to the advantage of Uganda. + "Oh," says the king, cunningly, "if Bana merely wishes to see Usoga, he + can do so, and I will send a suitable escort, but no more." To this Bombay + replied, "Bana never could return; he would sooner do anything than return—even + penetrate the Masai to Zanzibar, or go through Unyoro"; to which the king, + ashamed of his impotence, hung down his head and walked away. + </p> + <p> + In the meanwhile, and whilst this was going on at the king's palace, I + went with Grant, by appointment, to see the queen. As usual, she kept us + waiting some time, then appeared sitting by an open gate, and invited us, + together with many Wakungu and Wasumbua to approach. Very lavish with + stale sour pombe, she gave us all some, saving the Wasumbua, whom she + addressed very angrily, asking what they wanted, as they have been months + in the country. These poor creatures, in a desponding mood, defended + themselves by saying, which was quite true, that they had left their homes + in Sorombo to visit her, and to trade. They had, since their arrival in + the country, been daily in attendance at her palace, but never had the + good fortune to see her excepting on such lucky occasions as brought the + Wazungu (white men) here, when she opened her gates to them, but otherwise + kept them shut. The queen retorted, "And what have you brought me, pray? + where is it? Until I touch it you will neither see me nor obtain + permission to trade. Uganda is no place for idle vagabonds." We then asked + for a private interview, when, a few drops of rain falling, the queen + walked away, and we had orders to wait a little. During this time two boys + were birched by the queen's orders, and an officer was sent out to inquire + why the watch he had given her did not go. This was easily explained. It + had no key; and, never losing sight of the main object, we took advantage + of the opportunity to add, that if she did not approve of it, we could + easily exchange it for another on arrival at Gani, provided she would send + an officer with us. + </p> + <p> + The queen, squatting within her hut, now ordered both Grant and myself to + sit outside and receive a present of five eggs and one cock each, saying + coaxingly, "These are for my children." Then taking out the presents, she + learned the way of wearing her watch with a tape guard round her neck, + reposing the instrument in her bare bosom, and of opening and shutting it, + which so pleased her, that she declared it quite satisfactory. The key was + quite a minor consideration, for she could show it to her attendants just + as well without one. The towel and handkerchiefs were also very beautiful, + but what use could they be put to? "Oh, your majesty, to wipe the mouth + after drinking pombe." "Of course," is the reply—"excellent; I won't + use a mbugu napkin any more, but have one of these placed on my cup when + it is brought to drink, and wipe my mouth with it afterwards. But what + does Bana want?" "The road to Gani," says Bombay for me. "The king won't + see him when he goes to The palace, so now he comes here, trusting your + superior influence and good-nature will be more practicable." "Oh!" says + her majesty, "Bana does not know the facts of the case. My son has tried + all the roads without success, and now he is ashamed to meet Bana face to + face." "Then what is to be done, your majesty?" "Bana must go back to + Karague and wait for a year, until my son is crowned, when he will make + friends with the surrounding chiefs, and the roads will be opened." "But + Bana says he will not retrace one step; he would sooner lose his life." + "Oh, that's nonsense! he must not be headstrong; but before anything more + can be said, I will send a message to my son, and Bana can then go with + Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi, and tell all they have to say to Mtesa + to-morrow, and the following day return to me, when everything will be + concluded." We all now left but Kaddu and some of the queen's officers, + who waited for the message to her son about us. To judge from Kaddu, it + must have been very different from what she led us to expect, as, on + joining us, he said there was not the smallest chance of our getting the + road we required, for the queen was so decided about it no further + argument would be listened to. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—Three goats were stolen, and suspicion falling on the king's + cooks, who are expert foragers, we sent to the Kamraviona, and asked him + to order out the Mganga; but his only reply was, that he often loses goats + in the same way. He sent us one of his own for present purposes, and gave + thirty baskets of potatoes to my men. As the king held a court, and broke + it up before 8 a.m., and no one would go there for fear of his not + appearing again, I waited, till the evening for Bombay, Kaddu, K'yengo, + and Viarungi, when, finding them drunk, I went by myself, fired a gun, and + was admitted to where the king was hunting guinea-fowl. On seeing me, he + took me affectionately by the hand, and, as we walked along together, he + asked me what I wanted, showed me the house which was burnt down, and + promised to settle the road question in the morning. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—With Kaddu, K'yengo, and Viarungi all in attendance, we went to + the palace, where there was a large assemblage prepared for a levee, and + fired a gun, which brought the king out in state. The Sakibobo, or + provincial governor, arrived with a body of soldiers armed with sticks, + made a speech, and danced at the head of his men, all pointing sticks + upwards, and singing fidelity to their king. + </p> + <p> + The king then turned to me, and said, "I have come out to listen to your + request of last night. What is it you do want?" I said, "To open the + country to the north, that an uninterrupted line of commerce might exist + between England and this country by means of the Nile. I might go round by + Nkole" (K'yengo looked daggers at me); "but that is out of the way, and + not suitable to the purpose." The queen's deputation was now ordered to + draw near, and questioned in a whisper. As K'yengo was supposed to know + all about me, and spoke fluently both in Kiganda and Kisuahili, he had to + speak first; but K'yengo, to everybody's surprise, said, "One white man + wishes to go to Kamrasi's, whilst the other wishes to return through + Unyamuezi." This announcement made the king reflect; for he had been + privately primed by his mother's attendants, that we both wished to go to + Gani, and therefore shrewdly inquired if Rumanika knew we wished to visit + Kamrasi, and whether he was aware we should attempt the passage north from + Uganda. "Oh yes! of course Bana wrote to Bana Mdogo" (the little master) + "as soon as he arrived in Uganda and told him and Rumanika all about it." + "Wrote! what does that mean?" and I was called upon to explain. Mtesa, + then seeing a flaw in K'yengo's statements, called him a story-teller; + ordered him and his party away, and bade me draw near. + </p> + <p> + The moment of triumph had come at last, and suddenly the road was granted! + The king presently let us see the motive by which he had been influenced. + He said he did not like having to send to Rumanika for everything: he + wanted his visitors to come to him direct; moreover, Rumanika had sent him + a message to the effect that we were not to be shown anything out of + Uganda, and when we had done with it, were to be returned to him. + Rumanika, indeed! who cared about Rumanika? Was not Mtesa the king of the + country, to do as he liked? and we all laughed. Then the king, swelling + with pride, asked me whom I liked best—Rumanika or himself,—an + awkward question, which I disposed of by saying I liked Rumanika very much + because he spoke well, and was very communicative; but I also liked Mtesa, + because his habits were much like my own—fond of shooting and + roaming about; whilst he had learned so many things from my teaching, I + must ever feel a yearning towards him. + </p> + <p> + With much satisfaction I felt that my business was now done; for Budja was + appointed to escort us to Unyoro, and Jumba to prepare us boats, that we + might go all the way to Kamrasi's by water. Viarungi made a petition, on + Rumanika's behalf, for an army of Waganda to go to Karague, and fight the + refractory brother, Rogero; but this was refused, on the plea that the + whole army was out fighting at the present moment. The court then broke up + and we went home. + </p> + <p> + To keep the king up to the mark, and seal our passage, in the evening I + took a Lancaster rifle, with ammunition, and the iron chair he formerly + asked for, as a parting present, to the palace, but did not find him, as + he had gone out shooting with his brothers. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—Grant and I now called together on the king to present the + rifle, chair, and ammunition, as we could not thank him in words + sufficiently for the favour he had done us in granting the road through + Unyoro. I said the parting gift was not half as much as I should like to + have been able to give; but we hoped, on reaching Gani, to send Petherick + up to him with everything that he could desire. We regretted we had no + more powder or shot, as what was intended, and actually placed out + expressly to be presented on this occasion, was stolen. The king looked + hard at his head page, who was once sent to get these very things now + given, and then turning the subject adroitly, asked me how many cows and + women I would like, holding his hand up with spread fingers, and desiring + me to count by hundreds; but the reply was, Five cows and goats would be + enough, for we wished to travel lightly in boats, starting from the + Murchison Creek. Women were declined on such grounds as would seem + rational to him. But if the king would clothe my naked men with one mbugu + (bark cloth) each, and give a small tusk each to nine Wanyamuezi porters, + who desired to return to their home, the obligation would be great. + </p> + <p> + Everything was granted without the slightest hesitation; and then the + king, turning to me, said, "Well, Bana, so you really wish to go?" "Yes, + for I have not seen my home for four years and upwards"—reckoning + five months to the year, Uganda fashion. "And you can give no stimulants?" + "No." "Then you will send me some from Gani—brandy if you like; it + makes people sleep sound, and gives them strength." Next we went to the + queen to bid her farewell, but did not see her. + </p> + <p> + On returning home I found half my men in a state of mutiny. They had been + on their own account to beg for the women and cows which had been refused, + saying, If Bana does not want them we do, for we have been starved here + ever since we came, and when we go for food get broken heads; we will not + serve with Bana any longer; but as he goes north, we will return to + Karague and Unyanyembe. Bombay, however, told them they never had fed so + well in all their lives as they had in Uganda, counting from fifty to + sixty cows killed, and pombe and plantains every day, whenever they took + the trouble to forage; and for their broken heads they invariably received + a compensation in women; so that Bana had reason to regret every day spent + in asking for food for them at the palace—a favour which none but + his men received, but which they had not, as they might have done, turned + to good effect by changing the system of plundering for food in Uganda. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—By the king's order we attended at the palace early. The gun + obtained us all a speedy admittance, when the king opened conversation by + saying, "Well, Bana, so you really are going?" "Yes; I have enjoyed your + hospitality for a long time, and now wish to return to my home." "What + provision do you want?" I said, Five cows and five goats, as we shan't be + long in Uganda; and it is not the custom of our country, when we go + visiting, to carry anything away with us. The king then said, "Well, I + wish to give you much, but you won't have it"; when Budja spoke out, + saying, "Bana does not know the country he had to travel through; there is + nothing but jungle and famine on the way, and he must have cows"; on which + the king ordered us sixty cows, fourteen goats, ten loads of butter, a + load of coffee and tobacco, one hundred sheets of mbugu, as clothes for my + men, at a suggestion of Bombay's, as all my cloth had been expended even + before I left Karague. + </p> + <p> + This magnificent order created a pause, which K'yengo took advantage of by + producing a little bundle of peculiarly-shaped sticks and a lump of earth—all + of which have their own particular magical powers, as K'yengo described to + the king's satisfaction. After this, Viarungi pleaded the cause of my + mutinous followers, till I shook my finger angrily at him before the king, + rebuked him for intermeddling in other people's affairs, and told my own + story, which gained the sympathy of the king, and induced him to say, + "Supposing they desert Bana, what road do they expect to get?" Maula was + now appointed to go with Rozaro to Karague for the powder and other things + promised yesterday, whilst Viarungi and all his party, though exceedingly + anxious to get away, had orders to remain here prisoners as a surety for + the things arriving. Further, Kaddu and two other Wakungu received orders + to go to Usui with two tusks of ivory to purchase gunpowder, caps, and + flints, failing which they would proceed to Unyanyembe, and even to + Zanzibar, for the king must not be disappointed, and failure would cost + them their lives. + </p> + <p> + Not another word was said, and away the two parties went, with no more + arrangement than a set of geese—Maula without a letter, and Kaddu + without any provision for the way, as if all the world belonged to Mtesa, + and he could help himself from any man's garden that he liked, no matter + where he was. In the evening my men made a humble petition for their + discharge, even if I did not pay them, producing a hundred reasons for + wishing to leave me, but none which would stand a moment's argument: the + fact was, they were afraid of the road to Unyoro, thinking I had not + sufficient ammunition. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—I visited the king, and asked leave for boats to go at once; + but the fleet admiral put a veto on this by making out that dangerous + shallows exist between the Murchison Creek and the Kira district station, + so that the boats of one place never visit the other; and further, if we + went to Kira, we should find impracticable cataracts to the Urondogani + boat-station; our better plan would therefore be, to deposit our property + at the Urondogani station, and walk by land up the river, if a sight of + the falls at the mouth of the lake was of such material consequence to us. + </p> + <p> + Of course this man carried everything his own way, for there was nobody + able to contradict him, and we could not afford time to visit Usoga first, + lest by the delay we might lose an opportunity of communicating with + Petherick. Grant now took a portrait of Mtesa by royal permission, the + king sitting as quietly as his impatient nature would permit. Then at home + the Wanyamuezi porters received their tusks of ivory, weighing from 16 to + 50 lb. each, and took a note besides on Rumanika each for twenty fundo of + beads, barring one Bogue man, who, having lent a cloth to the expedition + some months previously, thought it would not be paid him, and therefore + seized a sword as security; the consequence was, his tusk was seized until + the sword was returned, and he was dismissed minus his beads, for having + so misconducted himself. The impudent fellow then said, "It will be well + for Bana if he succeeds in getting the road through Unyoro; for, should he + fail, I will stand in his path at Bogue." Kitunzi offered an ivory for + beads, and when told we were not merchants, and advised to try K'yengo, he + said he dared not even approach K'yengo's camp lest people should tell the + king of it, and accuse him of seeking for magical powers against his + sovereign. Old Nasib begged for his discharge. It was granted, and he took + a $50 letter on the coast, and a letter of emancipation for himself and + family, besides an order, written in Kisuahili, for ten fundo of beads on + Rumanika, which made him very happy. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we called again at the palace with pictures of the things + the king required from Rumanika, and a letter informing Rumanika what we + wished done with them, in order that there might be no mistake, requesting + the king to forward them after Mula. Just then Kaddu's men returned to say + they wanted provisions for the way, as the Wazinza, hearing of their + mission, asked them if they knew what they were about, going to a strange + country without any means of paying their way. But the king instead of + listening to reason, impetuously said, "If you do not pack off at once, + and bring me the things I want, every man of you shall lose his head; and + as for the Wazinza, for interfering with my orders, they shall be kept + here prisoners until you return." + </p> + <p> + On the way home, one of the king's favourite women overtook us, walking, + with her hands clasped at the back of her head, to execution, crying, + "N'uawo!" in the most pitiful manner. A man was preceding her, but did not + touch her; for she loved to obey the orders of her king voluntarily, and + in consequence of previous attachment, was permitted, as a mark of + distinction, to walk free. Wondrous world! it was not ten minutes since we + parted from the king, yet he had found time to transact this bloody piece + of business. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—Early in the morning the king bade us come to him to say + farewell. Wishing to leave behind a favourable impression, I instantly + complied. On the breast of my coat I suspended the necklace the queen had + given me, as well as his knife, and my medals. I talked with him in as + friendly and flattering a manner as I could, dwelling on his shooting, the + pleasant cruising on the lake, and our sundry picnics, as well as the + grand prospect there was now of opening the country to trade, by which his + guns, the best in the world, would be fed with powder—and other + small matters of a like nature,—to which he replied with great + feeling and good taste. We then all rose with an English bow, placing the + hand on the heart whilst saying adieu; and there was a complete uniformity + in the ceremonial, for whatever I did, Mtesa, in an instant, mimicked with + the instinct of a monkey. + </p> + <p> + We had, however, scarcely quitted the palace gate before the king issued + himself, with his attendants and his brothers leading, and women bringing + up the rear; here K'yengo and all the Wazinza joined in the procession + with ourselves, they kneeling and clapping their hands after the fashion + of their own country. Budja just then made me feel very anxious, by + pointing out the position of Urondogani, as I thought, too far north. I + called the king's attention to it, and in a moment he said he would speak + to Budja in such a manner that would leave no doubts in my mind, for he + liked me much, and desired to please me in all things. As the procession + now drew to our camp, and Mtesa expressed a wish to have a final look at + my men, I ordered them to turn out with their arms and n'yanzig for the + many favours they had received. Mtesa, much pleased, complimented them on + their goodly appearance, remarking that with such a force I would have no + difficulty in reaching Gani, and exhorted them to follow me through fire + and water; then exchanging adieus again he walked ahead in gigantic + strides up the hill, the pretty favourite of his harem, Lubuga—beckoning + and waving with her little hands, and crying, "Bana! Bana!"—trotting + after him conspicuous amongst the rest, though all showed a little feeling + at the severance. We saw them no more. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV. March Down the Northern Slopes of Africa + </h2> + <p> + Kari—Tragic Incident there—Renewals of Troubles—Quarrels + with the Natives—Reach the Nile—Description of the Scene there—Sport—Church + Estate—Ascend the River to the Junction with the Lake—Ripon + Falls—General Account of the Source of the Nile—Descend again + to Urondogani—The Truculent Sakibobo. + </p> + <p> + 7th to 11th.—With Budja appointed as the general director, a + lieutenant of the Sakibobo's to furnish us with sixty cows in his division + at the first halting-place, and Kasoro (Mr Cat), a lieutenant of Jumba's, + to provide the boats at Urondogani, we started at 1 p.m., on the journey + northwards. The Wanguana still grumbled, swearing they would carry no + loads, as they got no rations, and threatening to shoot us if we pressed + them, forgetting that their food had been paid for to the king in rifles, + chronometers, and other articles, costing about 2000 dollars, and, what + was more to the point, that all the ammunition was in our hands. A + judicious threat of the stick, however, put things right, and on we + marched five successive days to Kari—as the place was afterwards + named, in consequence of the tragedy mentioned below—the whole + distance accomplished being thirty miles from the capital, through a fine + hilly country, with jungles and rich cultivation alternating. The second + march, after crossing the Katawana river with its many branches flowing + north-east into the huge rush-drain of Luajerri, carried us beyond the + influence of the higher hills, and away from the huge grasses which + characterise the southern boundary of Uganda bordering on the lake. + </p> + <p> + Each day's march to Kari was directed much in the same manner. After a + certain number of hours' travelling, Budja appointed some village of + residence for the night, avoiding those which belonged to the queen, lest + any rows should take place in them, which would create disagreeable + consequences with the king, and preferring those the heads of which had + been lately seized by the orders of the king. Nevertheless, wherever we + went, all the villagers forsook their homes, and left their houses, + property, and gardens an easy prey to the thieving propensities of the + escort. To put a stop to this vile practice was now beyond my power; the + king allowed it, and his men were the first in every house, taking goats, + fowls, skins, mbugus, cowries, beads, drums, spears, tobacco, pombe,—in + short, everything they could lay their hands on—in the most ruthless + manner. It was a perfect marauding campaign for them all, and all alike + were soon laden with as much as they could carry. + </p> + <p> + A halt of some days had become necessary at Kari to collect the cows given + by the king; and, as it is one of the most extensive pasture-grounds, I + strolled with my rifle (11th) to see what new animals could be found; but + no sooner did I wound a zebra than messengers came running after me to say + Kari, one of my men, had been murdered by the villagers three miles off; + and such was the fact. He, with others of my men, had been induced to go + plundering, with a few boys of the Waganda escort, to a certain village of + potters, as pots were required by Budja for making plantain-wine, the + first thing ever thought of when a camp is formed. On nearing the place, + however, the women of the village, who were the only people visible, + instead of running away, as our braves expected, commenced hullalooing, + and brought out their husbands. Flight was now the only thought of our + men, and all would have escaped had Kari not been slow and his musket + empty. The potters overtook him, and, as he pointed his gun, which they + considered a magic-horn, they speared him to death, and then fled at once. + Our survivors were not long in bringing the news into camp, when a party + went out, and in the evening brought in the man's corpse and everything + belonging to him, for nothing had been taken. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—To enable me at my leisure to trace up the Nile to its exit + from the lake, and then go on with the journey as quickly as possible, I + wished the cattle to be collected and taken by Budja and some of my men + with the heavy baggage overland to Kamrasi's. Another reason for doing so + was, that I thought it advisable Kamrasi should be forewarned that we were + coming by the water route, lest we should be suspected and stopped as + spies by his officers on the river, or regarded as enemies, which would + provoke a fight. Budja, however, objected to move until a report of Kari's + murder had been forwarded to the king, lest the people, getting bumptious, + should try the same trick again; and Kasoro said he would not go up the + river, as he had received no orders to do so. + </p> + <p> + In this fix I ordered a march back to the palace, mentioning the king's + last words, and should have gone, had not Budja ordered Kasoro to go with + me. A page then arrived from the king to ask after Bana's health, carrying + the Whitworth rifle as his master's card, and begging for a heavy + double-barrelled gun to be sent him from Gani. I called this lad to + witness the agreement I had made with Budja, and told him, if Kasoro + satisfied me, I would return by him, in addition to the heavy gun, a + Massey's patent log. I had taken it for the navigation of the lake, and it + was now of no further use to me, but, being an instrument of complicated + structure, it would be a valuable addition to the king's museum of magic + charms. I added I should like the king to send me the robes of honour and + spears he had once promised me, in order that I might, on reaching + England, be able to show my countrymen a specimen of the manufactures of + his country. The men who were with Kari were now sent to the palace, under + accusation of having led him into ambush, and a complaint was made against + the villagers, which we waited the reply to. As Budja forbade it, no men + would follow me out shooting, saying the villagers were out surrounding + our camp, and threatening destruction on any one who dared show his face; + for this was not the highroad to Uganda, and therefore no one had a right + to turn them out of their houses and pillage their gardens. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—Budja lost two cows given to his party last night, and seeing + ours securely tied by their legs to trees, asked by what spells we had + secured them; and would not believe our assurance that the ropes that + bound them were all the medicines we knew of. One of the Queen's sisters, + hearing of Kari's murder, came on a visit to condole with us, bringing a + pot of pombe, for which she received some beads. On being asked how many + sisters the queen had, for we could not help suspecting some imposition, + she replied she was the only one, till assured ten other ladies had + presented themselves as the queen's sisters before, when she changed her + tone, and said, "That is true, I am not the only one; but if I had told + you the truth I might have lost my head." This was a significant + expression of the danger to telling court secrets. + </p> + <p> + I suspected that there must be a considerable quantity of game in this + district, as stake-nets and other traps were found in all the huts, as + well as numbers of small antelope hoofs spitted on pipe-sticks—an + ornament which is counted the special badge of the sportsman in this part + of Africa. Despite, therefore, of the warnings of Budja, I strolled again + with my rifle, and saw pallah, small plovers, and green antelopes with + straight horns, called mpeo, the skin of which makes a favourite apron for + the Mabandwa. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—I met to-day a Mhuma cowherd in my strolls with the rifle, and + asked him if he knew where the game lay. The unmannerly creature, standing + among a thousand of the sleekest cattle, gruffishly replied, "What can I + know of any other animals than cows?" and went on with his work, as if + nothing in the world could interest him but his cattle-tending. I shot a + doe, leucotis, called here nsunnu, the first one seen upon the journey. + </p> + <p> + 15th.—In the morning, when our men went for water to the springs, + some Waganda in ambush threw a spear at them, and this time caught a + Tartar, for the "horns," as they called their guns, were loaded, and two + of them received shot-wounds. In the evening, whilst we were returning + from shooting, a party of Waganda, also lying in the bush, called out to + know what we were about; saying, "Is it not enough that you have turned us + out of our homes and plantations, leaving us to live like animals in the + wilderness?" and when told we were only searching for sport, would not + believe that our motive was any other than hostility to themselves. + </p> + <p> + At night one of Budja's men returned from the palace, to say the king was + highly pleased with the measures adopted by his Wakungu, in prosecution of + Kari's affair. He hoped now as we had cows to eat, there would be no + necessity for wandering for food, but all would keep together "in one + garden." At present no notice would be taken of the murderers, as all the + culprits would have fled far away in their fright to escape chastisement. + But when a little time had elapsed, and all would appear to have been + forgotten, officers would be sent and the miscreants apprehended, for it + was impossible to suppose anybody could be ignorant of the white men being + the guests of the king, considering they had lived at the palace for so + long. The king took this opportunity again to remind me that he wanted a + heavy solid double gun, such as would last him all his life; and intimated + that in a few days the arms and robes of honour were to be sent. + </p> + <p> + 16th.—Most of the cows for ourselves and the guides—for the + king gave them also a present, ten each—were driven into camp. We + also got 50 lb. of butter, the remainder to be picked up on the way. I + strolled with the gun, and shot two zebras, to be sent to the king, as, by + the constitution of Uganda, he alone can keep their royal skins. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—We had to halt again, as the guides had lost most of their + cows, so I strolled with my rifle and shot a ndjezza doe, the first I had + ever seen. It is a brown animal, a little smaller than leucotis, and + frequents much the same kind of ground. + </p> + <p> + 18th.—We had still to wait another day for Budja's cows, when, as it + appeared all-important to communicate quickly with Petherick, and as + Grant's leg was considered too weak for travelling fast, we took counsel + together, and altered our plans. I arranged that Grant should go to + Kamrasi's direct with the property, cattle, and women, taking my letters + and a map for immediate despatch to Petherick at Gani, whilst I should go + up the river to its source or exit from the lake, and come down again + navigating as far as practicable. + </p> + <p> + At night the Waganda startled us by setting fire to the huts our men were + sleeping in, but providentially did more damage to themselves than to us, + for one sword only was buried in the fire, whilst their own huts, intended + to be vacated in the morning, were burnt to the ground. To fortify + ourselves against another invasion, we cut down all their plaintains to + make a boma or fence. + </p> + <p> + We started all together on our respective journeys; but, after the third + mile, Grant turned west, to join the highroad to Kamrasi's, whilst I went + east for Urondogani, crossing the Luajerri, a huge rush-drain three miles + broad, fordable nearly to the right bank, where we had to ferry in boats, + and the cows to be swum over with men holding on to their tails. It was + larger than the Katonga, and more tedious to cross, for it took no less + than four hours mosquitoes in myriads biting our bare backs and legs all + the while. The Luajerri is said to rise in the lake and fall into the + Nile, due south of our crossing-point. On the right bank wild buffalo are + described to be as numerous as cows, but we did not see any, though the + country is covered with a most inviting jungle for sport, which + intermediate lays of fine grazing grass. Such is the nature of the country + all the way to Urondogani, except in some favoured spots, kept as tidily + as in any part of Uganda, where plantains grow in the utmost luxuriance. + From want of guides, and misguided by the exclusive ill-natured Wahuma who + were here in great numbers tending their king's cattle, we lost our way + continually, so that we did not reach the boat-station until the morning + of the 21st. + </p> + <p> + Here at last I stood on the brink of the Nile; most beautiful was the + scene, nothing could surpass it! It was the very perfection of the kind of + effect aimed at in a highly kept park; with a magnificent stream from 600 + to 700 yards wide, dotted with islets and rocks, the former occupied by + fishermen's huts, the latter by sterns and crocodiles basking in the sun,—flowing + between the fine high grassy banks, with rich trees and plantains in the + background, where herds of the nsunnu and hartebeest could be seen + grazing, while the hippopotami were snorting in the water, and florikan + and guinea-fowl rising at our feet. Unfortunately, the chief district + officer, Mlondo, was from home, but we took possession of his huts—clean, + extensive, and tidily kept—facing the river, and felt as if a + residence here would do one good. Delays and subterfuges, however, soon + came to damp our spirits. The acting officer was sent for, and asked for + the boats; they were all scattered, and could not be collected for a day + or two; but, even if they were at hand, no boat ever went up or down the + river. The chief was away and would be sent for, as the king often changed + his orders, and, after all, might not mean what had been said. The + district belonged to the Sakibobo, and no representative of his had come + here. These excuses, of course, would not satisfy us. The boats must be + collected, seven, if there are not ten, for we must try them, and come to + some understanding about them, before we march up stream, when, if the + officer values his life, he will let us have them, and acknowledge Karoso + as the king's representative, otherwise a complaint will be sent to the + palace, for we won't stand trifling. + </p> + <p> + We were now confronting Usoga, a country which may be said to be the very + counterpart of Uganda in its richness and beauty. Here the people use such + huge iron-headed spears with short handles, that, on seeing one to-day, my + people remarked that they were better fitted for digging potatoes than + piercing men. Elephants, as we had seen by their devastations during the + last two marches, were very numerous in this neighbourhood. Till lately, a + party from Unyoro, ivory-hunting, had driven them away. Lions were also + described as very numerous and destructive to human life. Antelopes were + common in the jungle, and the hippopotami, though frequenters of the + plantain-garden and constantly heard, were seldom seen on land in + consequence of their unsteady habits. + </p> + <p> + The king's page again came, begging I would not forget the gun and + stimulants, and bringing with him the things I asked for—two spears, + one shield, one dirk, two leopard-cat skins, and two sheets of small + antelope skins. I told my men they ought to shave their heads and bathe in + the holy river, the cradle of Moses—the waters of which, sweetened + with sugar, men carry all the way from Egypt to Mecca, and sell to the + pilgrims. But Bombay, who is a philosopher of the Epicurean school, said, + "We don't look on those things in the same fanciful manner that you do; we + are contented with all the common-places of life, and look for nothing + beyond the present. If things don't go well, it is God's will; and if they + do go well, that is His will also." + </p> + <p> + 22d.—The acting chief brought a present of one cow, one goat, and + pombe, with a mob of his courtiers to pay his respects. He promised that + the seven boats, which are all the station he could muster, would be ready + next day, and in the meanwhile a number of men would conduct me to the + shooting-ground. He asked to be shown the books of birds and animals, and + no sooner saw some specimens of Wolf's handiwork, than, in utter surprise, + he exclaimed, "I know how these are done; a bird was caught and stamped + upon the paper," using action to his words, and showing what he meant, + while all his followers n'yanzigged for the favour of the exhibition. + </p> + <p> + In the evening I strolled in the antelope parks, enjoying the scenery and + sport excessively. A noble buck nsunnu, standing by himself, was the first + thing seen on this side, though a herd of hertebeests were grazing on the + Usoga banks. One bullet rolled my fine friend over, but the rabble looking + on no sooner saw the hit than they rushed upon him and drove him off, for + he was only wounded. A chase ensued, and he was tracked by his blood when + a pongo (bush box) was started and divided the party. It also brought me + to another single buck nsunnu, which was floored at once, and left to be + carried home by some of my men in company with Waganda, whilst I went on, + shot a third nsunnu buck, and tracked him by his blood till dark, for the + bullet had pierced his lungs and passed out on the other side. Failing to + find him on the way home, I shot, besides florikan and guinea-chicks, a + wonderful goatsucker, remarkable for the exceeding length of some of its + feathers floating out far beyond the rest in both wings. <a + href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a> + Returning home, I found the men who had charge of the dead buck all in a + state of excitement; they no sooner removed his carcass, than two lions + came out of the jungle and lapped his blood. All the Waganda ran away at + once; but my braves feared my answer more than the lions, and came off + safely with the buck on their shoulders. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—Three boats arrived, like those used on the Murchison Creek, + and when I demanded the rest, as well as a decisive answer about going to + Kamrasi's, the acting Mkungu said he was afraid accidents might happen, + and he would not take me. Nothing would frighten this pig-headed creature + into compliance, though I told him I had arranged with the king to make + the Nile the channel of communication with England. I therefore applied to + him for guides to conduct me up the river, and ordered Bombay and Kasoro + to obtain fresh orders from the king, as all future Wazungu, coming to + Uganda to visit or trade, would prefer the passage by the river. I shot + another buck in the evening, as the Waganda love their skins, and also a + load of guinea-fowl—three, four, and five at a shot—as Kasoro + and his boys prefer them to anything. + </p> + <p> + 24th.—The acting officer absconded, but another man came in his + place, and offered to take us on the way up the river to-morrow, + humbugging Kasoro into the belief that his road to the palace would branch + off from the first state, though in reality it was here. The Mkungu's + women brought pombe, and spent the day gazing at us, till, in the evening, + when I took up my rifle, one ran after Bana to see him shoot, and followed + like a man; but the only sport she got was on an ant-hill, where she fixed + herself some time, popping into her mouth and devouring the white ants as + fast as they emanated from their cells—for, disdaining does, I + missed the only pongo buck I got a shot at in my anxiety to show the fair + one what she came for. + </p> + <p> + Reports came to-day of new cruelties at the palace. Kasoro improved on + their off-hand manslaughter by saying that two Kamravionas and two + Sakibobos, as well as all the old Wakungu of Sunna's time, had been + executed by the orders of king Mtesa. He told us, moreover, that if Mtesa + ever has a dream that his father directs him to kill anybody as being + dangerous to his person, the order is religiously kept. I wished to send a + message to Mtesa by an officer who is starting at once to pay his respects + at court; but although he received it, and promised to deliver it, Kasoro + laughed at me for expecting that one word of it would ever reach the king; + for, however, appropriate or important the matter might be, it was more + than anybody dare do to tell the king, as it would be an infringement of + the rule that no one is to speak to him unless in answer to a question. My + second buck of the first day was brought in by the natives, but they would + not allow it to approach the hut until it had been skinned; and I found + their reason to be a superstition that otherwise no others would ever be + killed by the inmates of that establishment. + </p> + <p> + I marched up the left bank of the Nile at a considerable distance from the + water, to the Isamba rapids, passing through rich jungle and + plantain-gardens. Nango, an old friend, and district officer of the place, + first refreshed us with a dish of plantain-squash and dried fish, with + pombe. He told us he is often threatened by elephants, but he sedulously + keeps them off with charms; for if they ever tasted a plantain they would + never leave the garden until they had cleared it out. He then took us to + see the nearest falls of the Nile—extremely beautiful, but very + confined. The water ran deep between its banks, which were covered with + fine grass, soft cloudy acacias, and festoons of lilac convolvuli; whilst + here and there, where the land had slipped above the rapids, bared places + of red earth could be seen, like that of Devonshire; there, too, the + waters, impeded by a natural dam, looked like a huge mill-pond, sullen and + dark, in which two crocodiles, laving about, were looking out for prey. + From the high banks we looked down upon a line of sloping wooded islets + lying across the stream, which divide its waters, and, by interrupting + them, cause at once both dam and rapids. The whole was more fairy-like, + wild, and romantic than—I must confess that my thoughts took that + shape—anything I ever saw outside of a theatre. It was exactly the + sort of place, in fact, where, bridged across from one side-slip to the + other, on a moonlight night, brigands would assemble to enact some + dreadful tragedy. Even the Wanguana seemed spellbound at the novel beauty + of the sight, and no one thought of moving till hunger warned us night was + setting in, and we had better look out for lodgings. + </p> + <p> + Start again, and after drinking pombe with Nango, when we heard that three + Wakungu had been seized at Kari, in consequence of the murder, the march + was commenced, but soon after stopped by the mischievous machinations of + our guide, who pretended it was too late in the day to cross the jungles + on ahead, either by the road to the source or the palace, and therefore + would not move till the morning; then, leaving us, on the pretext of + business, he vanished, and was never seen again. A small black fly, with + thick shoulders and bullet-head, infests the place, and torments the naked + arms and legs of the people with its sharp stings to an extent that must + render life miserable to them. + </p> + <p> + After a long struggling march, plodding through huge grasses and jungle, + we reached a district which I cannot otherwise describe than by calling it + a "Church Estate." It is dedicated in some mysterious manner to Lubari + (Almighty), and although the king appeared to have authority over some of + the inhabitants of it, yet others had apparently a sacred character, + exempting them from the civil power, and he had no right to dispose of the + land itself. In this territory there are small villages only at every + fifth mile, for there is no road, and the lands run high again, whilst, + from want of a guide, we often lost the track. It now transpired that + Budja, when he told at the palace that there was no road down the banks of + the Nile, did so in consequence of his fear that if he sent my whole party + here they would rob these church lands, and so bring him into a scrape + with the wizards or ecclesiastical authorities. Had my party not been + under control, we could not have put up here; but on my being answerable + that no thefts should take place, the people kindly consented to provide + us with board and lodgings, and we found them very obliging. One elderly + man, half-witted—they said the king had driven his senses from him + by seizing his house and family—came at once on hearing of our + arrival, laughing and singing in a loose jaunty maniacal manner, carrying + odd sticks, shells, and a bundle of mbugu rags, which he deposited before + me, dancing and singing again, then retreating and bringing some more, + with a few plantains from a garden, when I was to eat, as kings lived upon + flesh, and "poor Tom" wanted some, for he lived with lions and elephants + in a hovel beyond the gardens, and his belly was empty. He was precisely a + black specimen of the English parish idiot. + </p> + <p> + At last, with a good push for it, crossing hills and threading huge + grasses, as well as extensive village plantations lately devastated by + elephants—they had eaten all that was eatable, and what would not + serve for food they had destroyed with their trunks, not one plantain or + one hut being left entire—we arrived at the extreme end of the + journey, the farthest point ever visited by the expedition on the same + parallel of latitude as king Mtesa's palace, and just forty miles east of + it. + </p> + <p> + We were well rewarded; for the "stones," as the Waganda call the falls, + was by far the most interesting sight I had seen in Africa. Everybody ran + to see them at once, though the march had been long and fatiguing, and + even my sketch-block was called into play. Though beautiful, the scene was + not exactly what I expected; for the broad surface of the lake was shut + out from view by a spur of hill, and the falls, about 12 feet deep, and + 400 to 500 feet broad, were broken by rocks. Still it was a sight that + attracted one to it for hours—the roar of the waters, the thousands + of passenger-fish, leaping at the falls with all their might; the Wasoga + and Waganda fisherman coming out in boats and taking post on all the rocks + with rod and hook, hippopotami and crocodiles lying sleepily on the water, + the ferry at work above the falls, and cattle driven down to drink at the + margin of the lake,—made, in all, with the pretty nature of the + country—small hills, grassy-topped, with trees in the folds, and + gardens on the lower slopes—as interesting a picture as one could + wish to see. + </p> + <p> + The expedition had now performed its functions. I saw that old father Nile + without any doubt rises in the Victoria N'yanza, and, as I had foretold, + that lake is the great source of the holy river which cradled the first + expounder of our religious belief. I mourned, however, when I thought how + much I had lost by the delays in the journey having deprived me of the + pleasure of going to look at the north-east corner of the N'yanza to see + what connection there was, by the strait so often spoken of, with it and + the other lake where the Waganda went to get their salt, and from which + another river flowed to the north, making "Usoga an island." But I felt I + ought to be content with what I had been spared to accomplish; for I had + seen full half of the lake, and had information given me of the other + half, by means of which I knew all about the lake, as far, at least, as + the chief objects of geographical importance were concerned. + </p> + <p> + Let us now sum up the whole and see what it is worth. Comparative + information assured me that there was as much water on the eastern side of + the lake as there is on the western—if anything, rather more. The + most remote waters, or top head of the Nile, is the southern end of the + lake, situated close on the third degree of south latitude, which gives to + the Nile the surprising length, in direct measurement, rolling over + thirty-four degrees of latitude, of above 2300 miles, or more than + one-eleventh of the circumference of our globe. Now from this southern + point, round by the west, to where the great Nile stream issues, there is + only one feeder of any importance, and that is the Kitangule river; whilst + from the southernmost point, round by the east, to the strait, there are + no rivers at all of any importance; for the travelled Arabs one and all + aver, that from the west of the snow-clad Kilimandjaro to the lake where + it is cut by the second degree, and also the first degree of south + latitude, there are salt lakes and salt plains, and the country is hilly, + not unlike Unyamuezi; but they said there were no great rivers, and the + country was so scantily watered, having only occasional runnels and + rivulets, that they always had to make long marches in order to find water + when they went on their trading journeys: and further, those Arabs who + crossed the strait when they reached Usoga, as mentioned before, during + the late interregnum, crossed no river either. + </p> + <p> + There remains to be disposed of the "salt lake," which I believe is not a + salt, but a fresh-water lake; and my reasons are, as before stated, that + the natives call all lakes salt, if they find salt beds or salt islands in + such places. Dr Krapf, when he obtained a sight of the Kenia mountain, + heard from the natives there that there was a salt lake to its northward, + and he also heard that a river ran from Kenia towards the Nile. If his + information was true on this latter point, then, without doubt, there must + exist some connection between his river and the salt lake I have heard of, + and this in all probability would also establish a connection between my + salt lake and his salt lake which he heard was called Baringo. <a + href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> + In no view that can be taken of it, however, does this unsettled matter + touch the established fact that the head of the Nile is in 3° south + latitude, where in the year 1858, I discovered the head of the Victoria + N'yanza to be. + </p> + <p> + I now christened the "stones" Ripon Falls, after the nobleman who presided + over the Royal Geographical Society when my expedition was got up; and the + arm of water from which the Nile issued, Napoleon Channel, in token of + respect to the French Geographical Society, for the honour they had done + me, just before leaving England, in presenting me with their gold medal + for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza. One thing seemed at first + perplexing—the volume of water in the Kitangule looked as large as + that of the Nile; but then the one was a slow river and the other swift, + and on this account I could form no adequate judgment of their relative + values. + </p> + <p> + Not satisfied with my first sketch of the falls, I could not resist + sketching them again; and then, as the cloudy state of the weather + prevented my observing for latitude, and the officer of the place said a + magnificent view of the lake could be obtained from the hill alluded to as + intercepting the view from the falls, we proposed going there; but Kasoro, + who had been indulged with nsunnu antelope skins, and with guinea-fowl for + dinner, resisted this, on the plea that I never should be satisfied. There + were orders given only to see the "stones," and if he took me to one hill + I should wish to see another and another, and so on. It made me laugh, for + that had been my nature all my life; but, vexed at heart, and wishing to + trick the young tyrant, I asked for boats to shoot hippopotami, in the + hope of reaching the hills to picnic; but boating had never been ordered, + and he would not listen to it. "Then bring fish," I said, that I might + draw them: no, that was not ordered. "Then go you to the palace, and leave + me to go to Urondogani to-morrow, after I have taken a latitude;" but the + wilful creature would not go until he saw me under way. And as nobody + would do anything for me without Kasoro's orders, I amused the people by + firing at the ferry-boat upon the Usoga side, which they defied me to hit, + the distance being 500 yards; but nevertheless a bullet went through her, + and was afterwards brought by the Wasoga nicely folded up in a piece of + mbugu. Bombay then shot a sleeping crocodile with his carbine, whilst I + spent the day out watching the falls. + </p> + <p> + This day also I spent watching the fish flying at the falls, and felt as + if I only wanted a wife and family, garden and yacht, rifle and rod, to + make me happy here for life, so charming was the place. What a place, I + thought to myself, this would be for missionaries! They never could fear + starvation, the land is so rich; and, if farming were introduced by them, + they might have hundreds of pupils. I need say no more. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the rod-and-line fishing, a number of men, armed with long + heavy poles with two iron spikes, tied prong-fashion to one end, rushed to + a place over a break in the falls, which tired fish seemed to use as a + baiting-room, dashed in their forks, holding on by the shaft, and sent men + down to disengaged the pined fish and relieve their spears. The shot they + made in this manner is a blind one—only on the chance of fish being + there—and therefore always doubtful in its result. + </p> + <p> + Church Estate again. As the clouds and Kasoro's wilfulness were still + against me, and the weather did not give hopes of a change, I sacrificed + the taking of the latitude to gain time. I sent Bombay with Kasoro to the + palace, asking for the Sakibobo himself to be sent with an order for five + boats, five cows, and five goats, and also for a general order to go where + I like, and do what I like, and have fish supplied me; "for, though I know + the king likes me, his officers do not;" and then on separating I retraced + my steps to the Church Estate. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—To-day, after marching an hour, as there was now no need for + hurrying, and a fine pongo buck, the Ngubbi of Uganda, offered a tempting + shot, I proposed to shoot it for the men, and breakfast in a neighbouring + village. This being agreed to, the animal was despatched, and we no sooner + entered the village than we heard that nsamma, a magnificent description + of antelope, abound in the long grasses close by, and that a rogue + elephant frequents the plantains every night. This tempting news created a + halt. In the evening I killed a nsamma doe, an animal very much like the + Kobus Ellipsiprymnus, but without the lunated mark over the rump; and at + night, about 1 a.m., turned out to shoot an elephant, which we distinctly + heard feasting on plantains; but rain was falling, and the night so dark, + he was left till the morning. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—I followed up the elephant some way, till a pongo offering an + irresistible shot I sent a bullet through him, but he was lost after + hours' tracking in the interminable large grasses. An enormous snake, with + fearful mouth and fangs, was speared by the men. In the evening I wounded + a buck nsamma, which, after tracking till dark, was left to stiffen ere + the following morning; and just after this on the way home, we heard the + rogue elephant crunching the branches not far off from the track; but as + no one would dare follow me against the monster at this late hour, he was + reluctantly left to do more injury to the gardens. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—After a warm search in the morning we found the nsamma buck + lying in some water; the men tried to spear him, but he stood at bay, and + took another bullet. This was all we wanted, affording one good specimen; + so, after breakfast, we marched to Kirindi, where the villagers, hearing + of the sport we had had, and excited with the hopes of getting flesh, + begged us to halt a day. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—Not crediting the stories told by the people about the sport + here, we packed to leave, but were no sooner ready than several men ran + hastily in to say some fine bucks were waiting to be shot close by. This + was too powerful a temptation to be withstood, so, shouldering the rifle, + and followed by half the village, if not more, women included, we went to + the place, but, instead of finding a buck—for the men had stretched + a point to keep me at their village—we found a herd of does, and + shot one at the people's urgent request. + </p> + <p> + We reached this in one stretch, and put up in our old quarters, where the + women of Mlondo provided pombe, plantains, and potatoes, as before, with + occasional fish, and we lived very happily till the 10th, shooting buck, + guinea-fowl, and florikan, when, Bombay and Kasoro arriving, my work began + again. These two worthies reached the palace, after crossing twelve + considerable streams, of which one was the Luajerri, rising in the lake. + The evening of the next day after leaving me at Kira, they obtained an + interview with the king immediately; for the thought flashed across his + mind that Bombay had come to report our death, the Waganda having been too + much for the party. He was speedily undeceived by the announcement that + nothing was the matter, excepting the inability to procure boats, because + the officers at Urondogani denied all authority but the Sakibobo's, and no + one would show Bana anything, however trifling, without an express order + for it. + </p> + <p> + Irate at this announcement, the king ordered the Sakibobo, who happened to + be present, to be seized and bound at once, and said warmly, "Pray, who is + the king, that the Sakibobo's orders should be preferred to mine?" and + then turning to the Sakibobo himself, asked what he would pay to be + released? The Sakibobo, alive to his danger, replied at once, and without + the slightest hesitation, Eighty cows, eighty goats, eighty slaves, eighty + mbugu, eighty butter, eighty coffee, eighty tobacco, eighty jowari, and + eighty of all the produce of Uganda. He was then released. Bombay said + Bana wished the Sakibobo to come to Urondogani, and gave him a start with + five boats, five cows, and five goats; to which the king replied, "Bana + shall have all he wants, nothing shall be denied him, not even fish; but + it is not necessary to send the Sakibobo, as boys carry all my orders to + kings as well as subjects. Kasoro will return again with you, fully + instructed in everything, and, moreover, both he and Budja will follow + Bana to Gani." Four days, however, my men were kept at the palace ere the + king gave them the cattle and leave to join me, accompanied with one more + officer, who had orders to find the boats at once, see us off, and report + the circumstance at court. Just as at the last interview, the king had + four women, lately seized and condemned to execution, squatting in his + court. He wished to send them to Bana, and when Bombay demurred, saying he + had no authority to take women in that way, the king gave him one, and + asked him if he would like to see some sport, as he would have the + remaining women cut to pieces before him. Bombay, by his own account, + behaved with great propriety, saying Bana never wished to see sport of + that cruel kind, and it would ill become him to see sights which his + master had not. Viarungi sent me some tobacco, with kind regards, and said + he and the Wazina had just obtained leave to return to their homes, + K'yengo alone, of all the guests, remaining behind as a hostage until + Mtesa's powder-seeking Wakungu returned. Finally, the little boy Lugoi had + been sent to his home. Such was the tenor of Bombay's report. + </p> + <p> + 11th.—The officer sent to procure boats, impudently saying there + were none, was put in the stocks by Kasoro, whilst other men went to + Kirindi for sailors, and down the stream for boats. On hearing the king's + order that I was to be supplied with fish, the fishermen ran away, and + pombe was no longer brewed for fear of Kasoro. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—To-day we slaughtered and cooked two cows for the journey—the + remaining three and one goat having been lost in the Luajerri—and + gave the women of the place beads in return for their hospitality. They + are nearly all Wanyoro, having been captured in that country by king Mtesa + and given to Mlondo. They said their teeth were extracted, four to six + lower incisors, when they were young, because no Myoro would allow a + person to drink from his cup unless he conformed to that custom. The same + law exists in Usoga. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI. Bahr El Abiad + </h2> + <p> + First Voyage on the Nile—The Starting—Description of the River + and the Country—Meet a Hostile Vessel—A Naval Engagement—Difficulties + and Dangers—Judicial Procedure—Messages from the King of + Uganda—His Efforts to get us back—Desertion—The Wanyoro + Troops—Kamrasi—Elephant-Stalking—Diabolical Possessions. + </p> + <p> + In five boats of five planks each, tied together and caulked with mbugu + rags, I started with twelve Wanguana, Kasoro and his page-followers, and a + small crew, to reach Kamrasi's palace in Unyoro—goats, dogs, and + kit, besides grain and dried meat, filling up the complement—but how + many days it would take nobody knew. Paddles propelled these vessels, but + the lazy crew were slow in the use of them, indulging sometimes in racing + spurts, then composedly resting on their paddles whilst the gentle current + drifted us along. The river, very unlike what it was from the Ripon Falls + downward, bore at once the character of river and lake—clear in the + centre, but fringed in most places with tall rush, above which the green + banks sloped back like park lands. It was all very pretty and very + interesting, and would have continued so, had not Kasoro disgraced the + Union Jack, turning it to piratical purposes in less than one hour. + </p> + <p> + A party of Wanyoro, in twelve or fifteen canoes, made of single tree + trunks, had come up the river to trade with the Wasoga, and having stored + their vessels with mbugu, dried fish, plantains cooked and raw, pombe, and + other things, were taking their last meal on shore before they returned to + their homes. Kasoro seeing this, and bent on a boyish spree, quite + forgetting we were bound for the very ports they were bound for, ordered + our sailors to drive in amongst them, landed himself, and sent the Wanyoro + flying before I knew what game was up, and then set to pillaging and + feasting on the property of those very men whom it was our interest to + propitiate, as we expected them shortly to be our hosts. + </p> + <p> + The ground we were on belonged to king Mtesa, being a dependency of + Uganda, and it struck me as singular that Wanyoro should be found here; + but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our boatmen disgorge + everything they had taken, called back the Wanyoro to take care of their + things, and extracted a promise from Kasoro that he would not practise + such wicked tricks again, otherwise we could not travel together. Getting + to boat again, after a very little paddling we pulled in to shore, on the + Uganda side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the injured Wanyoro + to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by this interruption, + but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on. This was the last + village on the Uganda frontier, and before we could go any farther on + boats it would be necessary to ask leave of Kamrasi's frontier officer, + N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The Wanguana demanded ammunition in the most + imperious manner, whilst I, in the same tone, refused to issue any lest a + row should take place and they then would desert, alluding to their + dastardly desertion in Msalala, when Grant was attacked. If a fight should + take place, I said they must flock to me at once, and ammunition, which + was always ready, would be served out to them. They laughed at this, and + asked, Who would stop with me when the fight began? This was making a jest + of what I was most afraid of—that they would all run away. + </p> + <p> + I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The Waganda + wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently, arguing that + etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me, they said, N'yamyonjo + had a hundred boats, and would drive us back to a certainty if we tried to + force past them, if he were not first spoken with, as the Waganda had + often tried the passage and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued + that Grant must have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all these + difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let Bombay start + at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after giving him time to say + we are coming. This point gained after a hot debate, Bombay started at 10 + a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it being but one hour's journey by water. + The frontier line was soon crossed; and then both sides of the river, + Usoga as well as Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi. + </p> + <p> + I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and there was + nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for Kidgwiga had promised + boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to Gani, where Petherick's + vessels were said to be stationed; but this hope shared the fate of so + many others in Africa. In a little while an enormous canoe, full of + well-dressed and well-armed men, was seen approaching us. We worked on, + and found they turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster, they did the + same, the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum, until at last it + became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their superior numbers. + The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's. On a rock by the + river stood a number of armed men, jumping, jabbering, and thrusting with + their spears, just as the Waganda do. I thought, indeed, they were Waganda + doing this to welcome us; but a glance at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me + such was not the case, but, on the contrary, their language and gestures + were threats, defying us to land. + </p> + <p> + The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was crowned + with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and lines of men, all + fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the canoe we had chased turned + broadside on us, and joined in the threatening demonstrations of the + people on shore. I could not believe them to be serious—thought they + had mistaken us—and stood up in the boat to show myself, hat in + hand. I said I was an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I could, + but without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a drum beat, + they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should be; and + Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river, preparing everybody to + arm. This was serious. Further, a second canoe full of armed men issued + out from the rushes behind us, as if with a view to cut off our retreat, + and the one in front advanced upon us, hemming us in. To retreat together + seemed our only chance, but it was getting dark, and my boats were badly + manned. I gave the order to close together and retire, offering ammunition + as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat, which seemed so + paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and round like a crippled + duck. + </p> + <p> + The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say, "They are + women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept roaring to my men, + "Keep together—come for powder;" and myself loaded with small shot, + which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire if it was intended for the + Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like guinea-fowl;" and he laughed again. But + confound my men! they would not keep together, and retreat with me. One of + those served with ammunition went as hard as he could go up stream to be + out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the dark shade of the + rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired for the benefit of our + guns. It was not getting painfully dark, and the Wanyoro were stealing on + us, as we could hear, though nothing could be seen. Presently the + shade-seeking boat was attacked, spears were thrown, fortunately into the + river instead of into our men, and grappling-hooks were used to link the + boats together. My men cried, "Help, Bana! they are killing us;" whilst I + roared to my crew, "Go in, go in, and the victory will be ours;" but not a + soul would—they were spell-bound to the place; we might have been + cut up in detail, it was all the same to those cowardly Waganda, whose + only action consisted in crying, "N'yawo! n'yawo!"—mother, mother, + help us! + </p> + <p> + Three shots from the hooked boat now finished the action. The Wanyoro had + caught a Tartar. Two of their men fell—one killed, one wounded. They + were heard saying their opponents were not Waganda, it were better to + leave them alone; and retreated, leaving us, totally uninjured, a clear + passage up the river. But where was Bombay all this while! He did not + return till after us, and then, in considerable excitement, he told his + tale. He reached N'yamyongo's village before noon, asked for the officer, + but was desired to wait in a hut until the chief should arrive, as he had + gone out on business; the villagers inquired, however, why we had robbed + the Wanyoro yesterday, for they had laid a complaint against us. Bombay + replied it was no fault of Bana's, he did everything he could to prevent + it, and returned all that the boatmen took. + </p> + <p> + These men then departed, and did not return until evening, when they asked + Bombay, impudently, why he was sitting there, as he had received no + invitation to spend the night; and unless he walked off soon they would + set fire to his hut. Bombay, without the smallest intention of moving, + said he had orders to see N'yamyonjo, and until he did so he would not + budge. "Well," said the people, "you have got your warning, now look out + for yourselves;" and Bombay, with his Waganda escort, was left again. + Drums then began to beat, and men to hurry to and fro with spears and + shields, until at last our guns were heard, and, guessing the cause, + Bombay with his Waganda escort rushed out of the hut into the jungle, and, + without daring to venture on the beaten track, through thorns and thicket + worked his way back to me, lame, and scratched all over with thorns. + </p> + <p> + Crowds of Waganda, all armed as if for war, came to congratulate us in the + morning, jumping, jabbering, and shaking their spears at us, denoting a + victory gained—for we had shot Wanyoro and no harm had befallen us. + "But the road," I cried, "has that been gained? I am not going to show my + back. We must go again, for there is some mistake; Grant is with Kamrasi, + and N'yamyongo cannot stop us. If you won't go in boats, let us go by land + to N'yamyongo's, and the boats will follow after." Not a soul, however, + would stir. N'yamyongo was described as an independent chief, who listened + to Kamrasi only when he liked. He did not like strange eyes to see his + secret lodges on the N'yanza; and if he did not wish us to go down the + river, Kamrasi's orders would go for nothing. His men had now been shot; + to go within his reach would be certain death. Argument was useless, + boating slow, to send messages worse; so I gave in, turned my back on the + Nile, and the following day (16th) came on the Luajerri. + </p> + <p> + Here, to my intense surprise, I heard that Grant's camp was not far off, + on its return from Kamrasi's. I could not, rather would not, believe it, + suspicious as it now appeared after my reverse. The men, however, were + positive, and advised my going to king Mtesa's—a ridiculous + proposition, at once rejected; for I had yet to receive Kamrasi's answer + to our Queen, about opening a trade with England. I must ascertain why he + despised Englishmen without speaking with them, and I could not believe + Kamrasi would prove less avaricious than either Rumanika or Mtesa, + especially as Rumanika had made himself responsible for our actions. We + slept that night near Kari, the Waganda eating two goats which had been + drowned in the Luajerri; and the messenger-page, having been a third time + to the palace and back again, called to ask after our welfare, on behalf + of his king, and remind us about the gun and brandy promised. + </p> + <p> + 17th and 18th.—The two following days were spent wandering about + without guides, trying to keep the track Grant had taken after leaving us, + crossing at first a line of small hills, then traversing grass and jungle, + like the dak of India. Plantain-gardens were frequently met, and the + people seemed very hospitably inclined, though they complained sadly of + the pages rudely rushing into every hut, seizing everything they could lay + their hands on, and even eating the food which they had just prepared for + their own dinners, saying, in a mournful manner, "If it were not out of + respect for you we should fight those little rascals, for it is not the + king's guest nor his men who do us injury, but the king's own servants, + without leave or licence." I observed that special bomas or fences were + erected to protect these villages against the incursions of lions. + Buffaloes were about, but the villagers cautioned us not to shoot them, + holding them as sacred animals; and, to judge from the appearance of the + country, wild animals should abound, were it not for the fact that every + Mganda seems by instinct to be a sportsman. + </p> + <p> + At last, after numerous and various reports about Grant, we heard his + drums last night, but we arrived this morning just in time to be too late. + He was on his march back to the capital of Uganda, as the people had told + us, and passed through N'yakinyama just before I reached it. What had + really happened I knew not, and was puzzled to think. To insist on a + treaty, demanding an answer, to the Queen, seemed the only chance left; so + I wrote to Grant to let me know all about it, and waited the result. He + very obligingly came himself, said he left Unyoro after stopping there an + age asking for the road without effect, and left by the orders of Kamrasi, + thinking obedience the better policy to obtain our ends. Two great + objections had been raised against us; one was that we were reported to be + cannibals, and the other that our advancing by two roads at once was + suspicious, the more especially so as the Waganda were his enemies; had we + come from Rumanika direct, there would have been no objection to us. + </p> + <p> + When all was duly considered, it appeared evident to me that the great + king of Unyoro, "the father of all the kings," was merely a nervous, + fidgety creature, half afraid of us because we were attempting his country + by the unusual mode of taking two routes at once, but wholly so of the + Waganda, who had never ceased plundering his country for years. As it + appeared that he would have accepted us had we come by the friendly route + of Kisuere, a further parley was absolutely necessary, and the more + especially so, as now we were all together and in Uganda, which, in + consequence, must relieve him from the fear of our harbouring evil designs + against him. No one present, however, could be prevailed on to go to him + in the capacity of ambassador, as the frontier officer had warned the + Wageni or guests that, if they ever attempted to cross the border again, + he was bound in duty, agreeably to the orders of his king, to expel them + by force; therefore, should the Wageni attempt it after this warning, + their first appearance would be considered a casus belli; and so the + matter rested for the day. + </p> + <p> + To make the best of a bad bargain, and as N'yakinyama was "eaten up," we + repaired to Grant's camp to consult with Budja; but Budja was found firm + and inflexible against sending men up to Unyoro. His pride had been + injured by the rebuffs we had sustained. He would wait here three or four + days as I proposed, to see what fortune sent us, if I would not be + convinced that Kamrasi wished to reject us, and he would communicate with + his king in the meantime, but nothing more. Here was altogether a + staggerer: I would stop for three or four days, but if Kamrasi would not + have us by that time, what was to be done? Would it be prudent to try + Kisuere now Baraka had been refused the Gani route? or would it not be + better still for me to sell Kamrasi altogether, by offering Mtesa five + hundred loads of ammunition, cloth and beads, if he would give us a + thousand Waganda as a force to pass through the Masai to Zanzibar, this + property to be sent back by the escort from the coast? Kamrasi would no + doubt catch it if we took this course, but it was expensive. + </p> + <p> + Thus were we ruminating, when lo, to our delight, as if they had been + listening to us, up came Kidgwiga, my old friend, who, at Mtesa'a place, + had said Kamrasi would be very glad to see me, and Vittagura, Kamrasi's + commander-in-chief, to say their king was very anxious to see us, and the + Waganda might come or not as they liked. Until now, the deputation said, + Kamrasi had doubted Budja's word about our friendly intentions, but since + he saw us withdrawing from his country, those doubts were removed. The + N'yamswenge, they said—meaning, I thought, Petherick—was still + at Gani; no English or others on the Nile ever expressed a wish to enter + Unyoro, otherwise they might have done so; and Baraka had left for + Karague, carrying off an ivory as a present from Kamrasi. + </p> + <p> + 21st.—I ordered the march to Unyoro; Budja, however, kept brooding + over the message sent to the Waganda, to the effect that they might come + or not as they liked, and considering us with himself to have all been + treated "like dogs," begged me to give him my opinion as to what course he + had better pursue; for he must, in the first instance, report the whole + circumstances to the king, and could not march at once. This was a blight + on our prospects, and appeared very vexatious, in the event of Budja + waiting for an answer, which, considering Mtesa had ordered his Wakungu to + accompany us all the way to Gani, might stop our march altogether. + </p> + <p> + I therefore argued that Kamrasi's treatment of us was easily accounted + for: he heard of us coming by two routes from an enemy's country, and was + naturally suspicious of us; that had now been changed by our withdrawing, + and he invited us to him. Without doubt, his commander-in-chief was never + very far away, and followed on our heels. Such precaution was only natural + and reasonable on Kamrasi's part, and what had been done need not alarm + any one. "If you do your duty properly, you will take us at once into + Unyoro, make your charge over to these men, and return or not as you like; + for in doing so you will have fulfilled both Mtesa's, and Kamrasi's orders + at once." "Very good," says Budja, "let it be so; for there is great + wisdom in your words: but I must first send to my king, for the Waganda + villagers have struck two of your men with weapons" (this had happened + just before my arrival here), "and this is a most heinous offence in + Uganda, which cannot be overlooked. Had it been done with a common stick, + it could have been overlooked; but the use of weapons is an offence, and + both parties must go before the king." This, of course, was objected to on + the plea that it was my own affair. I was king of the Wanguana, and might + choose to dispense with the attendance. The matter was compromised, + however, on the condition that Budja should march across the border + to-morrow, and wait for the return of these men and for further orders on + the Unyoro side. + </p> + <p> + The bait took. Budja lost sight of the necessity there was for his going + to Gani to bring back a gun, ammunition, and some medicine—that is + to say, brandy—for his king; and sent his men off with mine to tell + Mtesa all our adventures—our double repulse, the intention to wait + on the Unyoro side for further orders, and the account of some Waganda + having wounded my men. I added my excuses for Kamrasi, and laid a + complaint against Mtesa's officers for having defrauded us out of ten + cows, five goats, six butter, and sixty mbugu. It was not that we required + these things, but I knew that the king had ordered them to be given to us, + and I thought it right we should show that his officers, if they professed + to obey his orders, had peculated. After these men had started, some + friends of the villager who had been apprehended on the charge of + assailing my men, came and offered Budja five cows to overlook the charge; + and Budja, though he could not overlook it when I pleaded for the man, + asked me to recall my men. Discovering that the culprit was a queen's man, + and that the affair would cause bad blood at court should the king order + the man's life to be taken, I tried to do so, but things had gone too far. + </p> + <p> + Again the expedition marched on in the right direction. We reached the + last village on the Uganda frontier, and there spent the night. Here Grant + shot a nsunnu buck. The Wanguana mutinied for ammunition, and would not + lift a load until they got it, saying, "Unyoro is a dangerous country," + though they had been there before without any more than they now had in + pouch. The fact was, my men, in consequence of the late issues on the + river, happened to have more than Grant's men, and every man must have + alike. The ringleader, unfortunately for himself, had lately fired at a + dead lion, to astonish the Unyoro, and his chum had fired a salute, which + was contrary to orders; for ammunition was at a low ebb, and I had done + everything in my power to nurse it. Therefore, as a warning to the others, + the guns of these two were confiscated, and a caution given that any gun + in future let off, either by design or accident, would be taken. + </p> + <p> + To-day I felt very thankful to get across the much-vexed boundary-line, + and enter Unyoro, guided by Kamrasi's deputation of officers, and so shake + off the apprehensions which had teased us for so many days. This first + march was a picture of all the country to its capital: an interminable + forest of small trees, bush, and tall grass, with scanty villages, low + huts, and dirty-looking people clad in skins; the plantain, sweet potato, + sesamum, and ulezi (millet) forming the chief edibles, besides goats and + fowls; whilst the cows, which are reported to be numerous, being kept, as + everywhere else where pasture-lands are good, by the wandering, unsociable + Wahuma are seldom seen. No hills, except a few scattered cones, disturb + the level surface of the land, and no pretty views ever cheer the eye. + Uganda is now entirely left behind; we shall not see its like again; for + the further one leaves the equator, and the rain-attracting influences of + the Mountains of the Moon, vegetation decreases proportionately with the + distance. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately the frontier-village could not feed so large a party as ours, + and therefore we were compelled to move farther on, to our great delight, + through the same style of forest acacia, cactus, and tall grass, to + Kidgwiga's gardens, where we no sooner arrived than Mtesa's + messenger-page, with a party of fifty Waganda, dropped in, in the most + unexpected manner, to inquire after "his royal master's friend, Bana." The + king had heard of the fight upon the river, and thought the Wanguana must + be very good shots. He still trusted we would not forget the gun and + ammunition, but, above all, the load of stimulants, for he desired that + above all things on earth. This was the fourth message to remind us of + these important matters which we had received since leaving his gracious + presence, and each time brought by the same page. While the purpose of the + boy's coming with so many men was not distinctly known, the whole village + and camp were in a state of great agitation, Budja fearing lest the king + had some fault to find with his work, and the Wanyoro deeming it a menace + of war, whilst I was afraid they might take fright and stop our progress. + </p> + <p> + But all went well in the end; Massey's log, which I have mentioned as a + present I intended for Mtesa, was packed up, and the page departed with + it. Some of Rumanika's men, who came into Unyoro with Baraka, with four of + K'yengo's, were sent to call us by Kamrasi. Through Rumanika's men it + transpired that he had stood security for our actions, else, with the many + evil reports of our being cannibals and such-like, which had preceded our + coming here, we never should have gained admittance to the country. The + Wanyoro, who are as squalid-looking as the Wanyamuezi, and almost as badly + dressed, now came about us to hawk ivory ornaments, brass and copper + twisted wristlets, tobacco, and salt, which they exchanged for cowries, + with which they purchase cows from the Waganda. As in Uganda, all the + villagers forsook their huts as soon as they heard the Wageni (guests) + were coming; and no one paid the least attention to the traveller, save + the few head-men attached to the escort, or some professional traders. + </p> + <p> + 25th to 28th.—I had no sooner ordered the march than Vittagura + counter-ordered it, and held a levee to ascertain, as he said, if the + Waganda were to go back; for though Kamrasi wished to see us, he did not + want the Waganda. It was Kamrasi's orders that Budja should tell this to + his "child the Mkavia," meaning Mtesa; for when the Waganda came the first + time to see him, three of his family died; and when they came the second + time, three more died; and as this rate of mortality was quite unusual in + his family circle, he could only attribute it to foul magic. The presence + of people who brought such results was of course by no means desirable. + This neat message elicited with a declaration of the necessity of Budja's + going to Gani with us, and a response from the commander-in-chief, + probably to terrify the Waganda, that although Gani was only nine days' + journey distant from Kamrasi's palace, the Gani people were such + barbarians, they would call a straight-haired man a magician, and any + person who tied his mbugu in a knot upon his shoulder, or had a full set + of teeth as the Waganda have, would be surely killed by them. Finally, we + must wait two days, to see if Kamrasi would see us or not. Such was Unyoro + diplomacy. + </p> + <p> + An announcement of a different kind immediately followed. The king had + heard that I gave a cow to Vittagura and Kidgwiga when they first came to + me in Uganda, and wished the Wanyamuezi to ascertain if this was true. Of + course, I said they were my guests in Uganda, and if they had been wise + they would have eaten their cow on the spot; what was that to Kamrasi? It + was a pity he did not treat us as well who have come into his country at + his own invitation, instead of keeping us starving in this gloomy + wilderness, without a drop of pombe to cheer the day;—why could not + he let us go on? He wanted first to hear if the big Mzungu, meaning + myself, had really come yet. All fudge! + </p> + <p> + Three days were spent in simply waiting for return messages on both sides, + and more might have been lost in the same way, only we amused Vittagura + and gave him confidence by showing our pictures, looking-glass, scissors, + knives, etc., when he promised a march in the morning, leaving a man + behind to bring on the Wanguana sent to Mtesa's, it being the only + alternative which would please Budja; for he said there was no security + for life in Unyoro, where every Mkungu calls himself the biggest man, and + no true hospitality is to be found. + </p> + <p> + The next two days took us through Chagamoyo to Kiratosi, by the aid of the + compass; for the route Kamrasi's men took differed from the one which + Budja knew, and he declared the Wanyoro were leading us into a trap, and + would not be convinced we were going on all right till I pulled out the + compass and confirmed the Wanyoro. We were anything but welcomed at + Kiratosi, the people asking by what bad luck we had come there to eat up + their crops; but in a little while they flocked to our doors and admired + our traps, remarking that they believed each iron box contained a couple + of white dwarfs, which we carry on our shoulders, sitting straddle-legs, + back to back, and they fly off to eat people whenever they get the order. + One of these visitors happened to be the sister of one of my men, named + Baruti, who no sooner recognised her brother, than, without saying a word, + she clasped her head with her hands, and ran off, crying, to tell her + husband what she had seen. A spy of Kamrasi dropped the report that the + Wanguana were returning from Mtesa's, and hurried on to tell the king. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—Some Waganda hurrying in, confirmed the report of last night, + and said the Wanguana, footsore, had been left at the Uganda frontier, + expecting us to return, as Mtesa, at the same time that he approved highly + of my having sent men back to inform him of Kamrasi's conduct, begged we + would instantly return, even if found within one march of Kamrasi's, for + he had much of importance to tell his friend Bana. The message continued + to this effect: I need be under no apprehensions about the road to the + coast, for he would give me as many men as I liked; and, fearing I might + be short of powder, he had sent some with the Wanguana. Both Wanguana were + by the king given women for their services, and an old tin cartridge-box + represented Mtesa's card, it being an article of European manufacture, + which, if found in the possession of any Mganda, would be certain death to + him. Finally, all the houses and plantains where my men were wounded had + been confiscated. + </p> + <p> + When this message was fully delivered, Budja said we must return without a + day's delay. I, on the contrary, called up Kidgwiga. I did not like my men + having been kept prisoners in Uganda, and pronounced in public that I + would not return. It would be an insult to Kamrasi my doing so, for I was + now in his "house" at his own invitation. I wished Bombay would go with + him (Kidgwiga) at once to his king, to say I had hoped, when I sent Budja + with Mabruki, in the first instance, conveying a friendly present from + Mtesa, which was done at my instigation, and I found Kamrasi acknowledged + it by a return-present, that there would be no more fighting between them. + I said I had left England to visit these countries for the purpose of + opening up a trade, and I had no orders to fight my way except with the + force of friendship. That Rumanika had accepted my views Kamrasi must be + fully aware by Baraka's having visited him; and that Mtesa did the same + must also be evident, else he would never have ordered his men to + accompany me to Gani; and I now fondly trusted that these Waganda would be + allowed to go with me, when, by the influence of trade, all animosity + would cease, and friendly relations be restored between the two countries. + </p> + <p> + This speech was hardly pronounced when Kajunju, a fine athletic man, + dropped suddenly in, nodded a friendly recognition to Budja, and wished to + know what the Waganda meant by taking us back, for the king had heard of + their intention last night; and when told by Budja his story, and by + Kidgwiga mine, he vanished like a shadow. Budja, now turning to me, said, + "If you won't go back, I shall; for the orders of Mtesa must always be + obeyed, else lives will be lost; and I shall tell him that you, since + leaving his country, and getting your road, have quite forgotten him." "If + you give such a message as that," I said, "you will tell a falsehood. + Mtesa has no right to order me out of another man's house, to be an enemy + with one whose friendship I desire. I am not only in honour bound to speak + with Kamrasi, but I am also bound to carry out the orders of my country + just as much as you are yours; moreover, I have invited Petherick to come + to Kamrasi's by a letter from Karague, and it would be ill-becoming in me + to desert him in the hands of an enemy, as he would then certainly find + Kamrasi to be if I went back now." Budja then tried the coaxing dodge, + saying, "There is much reason in your words, but I am sorry you do not + listen to the king, for he loves you as a brother. Did you not go about + like two brothers—walking, talking, shooting, and even eating + together? It was the remark of all the Waganda, and the king will be so + vexed when he finds you have thrown him over. I did not tell you before, + but the king says, 'How can I answer Rumanika if Kamrasi injures Bana? Had + I known Kamrasi was such a savage, I would not have let Bana go there; and + I should now have sent a forge to take him away, only that some accident + might arise from it by Kamrasi's taking fright; the road even to Gani + shall be got by force if necessary.'" Then, finding me still persistent, + Budja turned again and threatened us with the king's power, saying, "If + you choose to disobey, we will see whether you ever get the road to Gani + or not; for Kamrasi is at war on all sides with his brothers, and Mtesa + will ally himself with them at any moment that he wishes, and where will + you be then?" + </p> + <p> + Saying this, Budja walked off, muttering that our being here would much + embarrass Mtesa's actions; whilst my Wanguana, who had been attentively + listening, like timid hares, made up their minds to leave me, and tried, + through Bombay, to obtain a final interview with me, saying they knew + Mtesa's power, and disobedience to him would only end in taking away all + chance of escape. In reply, I said I would not listen to them, as I had + seen enough of them to know it was no use speaking to a pack of + unreasonable cowards, having tried it so often before; but I sent a + message requesting them, if they did desert me at last, to leave my guns; + and, further, added an intimation that, as soon as they reached the coast, + they would be put into prison for three years. The scoundrels insolently + said "tuende setu" (let's be off), rushed to the Waganda drums, and beat + the march. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—Early in the morning, as Budja drummed the home march, I called + him up, gave him a glass rain-gauge as a letter for Mtesa, and instructed + him to say I would send a man to Mtesa as soon as I had seen Kamrasi about + opening the road; that I trusted he would take all the guns from the + deserters and keep them for me, but the men themselves I wished + transported to an island on the N'yanza, for I could never allow such + scoundrels again to enter my camp. It was the effect of desertions like + these that prevented any white men visiting these countries. This said, + the Waganda all left us, taking with them twenty-eight Wanguana, armed + with twenty-two carbines. Amongst them was the wretched governess, + Manamaka, who had always thought me a wonderful magician, because I + possessed, in her belief, an extraordinary power in inclining all the + black kings' hearts to me, and induced them to give the roads no one + before of my colour had ever attempted to use. + </p> + <p> + With a following reduced to twenty men, armed with fourteen carbines, I + now wished to start for Kamrasi's, but had not even sufficient force to + lift the loads. A little while elapsed, and a party of fifty Wanyoro + rushed wildly into camp, with their spears uplifted, and looked for the + Waganda, but found them gone. The athletic Kajunju, it transpired, had + returned to Kamrasi's, told him our story, and received orders to snatch + us away from the Waganda by force, for the great Mkamma, or king, was most + anxious to see his white visitors; such men had never entered Unyoro + before, and neither his father nor his father's fathers had ever been + treated with such a visitation; therefore he had sent on these fifty men + to fall by surprise on the Waganda, and secure us. But again, in a little + while, about 10 a.m., Kajunju, in the same wild manner, at the head of 150 + warriors, with the soldier's badge—a piece of mbugu or plantain-leaf + tied round their heads, and a leather sheath on their spear-heads, tufted + with cow's-tail—rushed in exultingly, having found, to their + delight, that there was no one left to fight with, and that they had + gained an easy victory. They were certainly a wild set of ragamuffins—as + different as possible from the smart, well-dressed, quick-of-speech + Waganda as could be, and anything but prepossessing to our eyes. However, + they had done their work, and I offered them a cow, wishing to have it + shot before them; but the chief men, probably wishing the whole animal to + themselves, took it alive, saying the men were all the king's servants, + and therefore could not touch a morsel. + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi expected us to advance next day, when some men would go on ahead + to announce our arrival, and bring a letter which was brought with beads + by Gani before Baraka's arrival here. It was shown to Baraka in the hope + that we would come by the Karague route, but not to Mabruki, because he + came from Uganda. Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi never retaliated on + Mtesa when he lifted Unyoro cows, though the Waganda keep their cattle on + the border—which simply meant that he had not the power of doing so. + The twenty remaining Wanguana, conversing over the sudden scheme of the + deserters, proposed, on one side, sending for them, as, had they seen the + Wanyoro arrive, they would have changed their minds; but the other side + said, "What! those brutes who said we should all die here if we stayed, + and yet dared not face the danger with us, should we now give them a + helping hand? Never! We told them we would share our fate with Bana, and + share it we will, for God rules everything: every man must die when his + time comes." + </p> + <p> + We marched for the first time without music, as the drum is never allowed + to be beaten in Unyoro except when the necessities of war demand it, or + for a dance. Wanyamuezi and Wanyoro, in addition to our own twenty men, + carried the luggage, though no one carried more than the smallest article + he could find. It was a pattern Unyoro march, of only two hours' duration. + On arrival at the end we heard that elephants had been seen close by. + Grant and I then prepared our guns, and found a herd of about a hundred + feeding on a plain of long grass, dotted here and there by small mounds + crowned with shrub. The animals appeared to be all females, much smaller + than the Indian breed; yet though ten were fired at, none were killed, and + only one made an attempt to charge. I was with the little twin Manua at + the time, when, stealing along under cover of the high grass, I got close + to the batch and fired at the larges, which sent her round roaring. The + whole of them then, greatly alarmed, packed together and began sniffing + the air with their uplifted trunks, till, ascertaining by the smell of the + powder that their enemy was in front of them, they rolled up their trunks + and came close to the spot where I was lying under a mound. My scent then + striking across them, they pulled up short, lifted their heads high, and + looked down sideways on us. This was a bad job. I could not get a proper + front shot at the boss of any of them, and if I had waited an instant we + should both have been picked up or trodden to death; so I let fly at their + temples, and instead of killing, sent the whole of them rushing away at a + much faster pace than they came. After this I gave up, because I never + could separate the ones I had wounded from the rest, and thought it cruel + to go on damaging more. Thinking over it afterwards, I came to the + conclusion I ought to have put in more powder; for I had, owing to their + inferior size to the Indian ones, rather despised them, and fired at them + with the same charge and in the same manner as I always did at rhinoceros. + Though puzzled at the strange sound of the rifle, the elephants seldom ran + far, packed in herd, and began to graze again. Frij, who was always ready + at spinning a yarn, told us with much gravity that two of my men, Uledi + and Wadi Hamadi, deserters, were possessed of devils (Phepo) at Zanzibar. + Uledi, not wishing to be plagued by his Satanic majesty's angels on the + march, sacrificed a cow and fed the poor, according to the great Phepo's + orders, and had been exempted from it; but Wadi Hamadi, who preferred + taking his chance, had been visited several times: once at Usui, when he + was told the journey would be prosperous, only the devil wanted one man's + life, and one man would fall sick; which proved true, for Hassani was + murdered, and Grant fell sick in Karague. The second time Wadi Hamadi saw + the devil in Karague, and was told one man's life would be required in + Uganda, and such also was the case by Kari's murder; and a third time, in + Unyoro, he was possessed, when it was said that the journey would be + prosperous but protracted. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—Though we stormed every day at being so shamefully neglected and + kept in the jungles, we could not get on, nor find out the truth of our + position. I asked if Kamrasi was afraid of us, and looking into his magic + horn; and was answered, "No; he is very anxious to see you, or he would + not have sent six of his highest officers to look after you, and prevent + the unruly peasantry from molesting you." "Then by whose orders are we + kept here?" "By Kamrasi's." "Why does Kamrasi keep us here?" "He thinks + you are not so near, and men have gone to tell him." "How did we come here + from the last ground?" "By Kamrasi's orders; for nothing can be done + excepting by his orders." "Then he must know we are here?" "He may not + have seen the men we sent to him; for unless he shows in public no one can + see him." The whole affair gave us such an opinion of Kamrasi as induced + us to think it would have served him right had we joined Mtesa and given + him a thrashing. This, I said, was put in our power by an alliance with + his refractory brothers; but Kidgwiga only laughed and said, "Nonsense! + Kamrasi is the chief of all the countries round here—Usoga, Kidi, + Chopi, Gani, Ulega, everywhere; he has only to hold up his hand and + thousands would come to his assistance." Kwibeya, the officer of the + place, presented us with five fowls on the part of the king, and some + baskets of potatoes. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—We halted again, it was said, in order that Kwibeya might give + us all the king had desired him to present. I sent Bombay off with a + message to Kamrasi explaining everything, and begging for an early + interview, as I had much of importance to communicate, and wished, of all + things, to see the letter he had from Gani, as it must have come from our + dear friends at home. Seven goats, flour, and plantains, were now brought + to us; and as Kidgwiga begged for the flour without success, he flew into + a fit of high indignation because these things were given and received + without his having first been consulted. He was the big man and appointed + go-between, and no one could dispute it. This was rather startling news to + us, for Vittagura said he was commander-in-chief; Kajunju thought himself + biggest, so did Kwibeya, and even Dr K'yengo's men justified Budja's + speech. + </p> + <p> + 5th and 6th.—Still another halt, with all sorts of excuses. Frij, it + appeared, dreamt last night that the king of Uganda came to fight us for + not complying with his orders, and that all my men ran away except Uledi + and himself. This, according to the interpretation of the coast, would + turn out the reverse, otherwise his head must be wrong, and, according to + local science, should be set right again by actual cautery of the temples; + and as Grant dreamt a letter came from Gani which I opened and ran away + with, he thought it would turn out no letter at all, and therefore Kamrasi + had been humbugging us. We heard that Bombay had shot a cow before Kamrasi + and would not be allowed to return until he had eaten it. + </p> + <p> + At last we made a move, but only of two hours' duration, through the usual + forest, in which elephants walked about as if it were their park. We hoped + at starting to reach the palace, but found we must stop here until the + king should send for us. We were informed that doubtless he was looking + into his Uganga, or magic horn, to discover what he had to expect from us; + and he seemed as yet to have found no ground for being afraid of us. + Moreover, it is his custom to keep visitors waiting on him in this way, + for is he not the king of kings, the king of Kittara, which includes all + the countries surrounding Unyoro? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII. Unyoro + </h2> + <p> + Invitation to the Palace at last—Journey to it—Bombay's Visit + to King Kamrasi—Our Reputation as Cannibals—Reception at Court—Acting + the Physician again—Royal Mendicancy. + </p> + <p> + We halted again, but in the evening one of Dr K'yengo's men came to invite + us to the palace. He explained that Kamrasi was in a great rage because we + only received seven goats instead of thirty, the number he had ordered + Kwibeya to give us, besides pombe and plantains without limitation. I + complained that Bombay had been shown more respect than myself, obtaining + an immediate admittance to the king's presence. To this he gave two ready + answers—that every distinction shown my subordinate was a + distinction to myself, and that we must not expect court etiquette from + savages. + </p> + <p> + 9th.—We set off for the palace. This last march differed but little + from the others. Putting Dr K'yengo's men in front, and going on despite + all entreaties to stop, we passed the last bit of jungle, sighted the Kidi + hills, and, in a sea of swampy grass, at last we stood in front of and + overlooked the great king's palace, situated N. lat. 1° 37' 43", and E. + long. 32° 19' 49", on a low tongue of land between the Kafu and Nile + rivers. It was a dumpy, large hut, surrounded by a host of smaller ones, + and the worst royal residence we had seen since leaving Uzinza. Here + Kajunju, coming from behind, overtook us, and breathless with running, in + the most excited manner, abused Dr K'yengo's men for leading us on, and + ordered us to stop until he saw the king, and ascertained the place his + majesty wished us to reside in. Recollecting Mtesa's words that Kamrasi + placed his guest on the N'yanza, I declined going to any place but the + palace, which I maintained was my right, and waited for the issue, when + Kajunju returned with pombe, and showed us to a small, dirty set of huts + beyond the Kafu river—the trunk of the Mwerango and N'yanza branches + which we crossed in Uganda—and trusted this would do for the + present, as better quarters in the palace would be looked for on the + morrow. This was a bad beginning, and caused a few of the usual anathemas + in which our countrymen give vent to their irritation. + </p> + <p> + Two loads of flowers, neatly packed in long strips of rushpith, were sent + for us "to consume at once," as more would be given on the morrow. To keep + us amused, Kidgwiga informed us that Kamrasi and Mtesa—in fact, all + the Wahuma—came originally from a stock of the same tribe dwelling + beyond Kidi. All bury their dead in the same way, under ground; but the + kings are toasted first for months till they are like sun-dried meat, when + the lower jaw is cut out and preserved, covered with beads. The royal + tombs are put under the charge of special officers, who occupy huts + erected over them. The umbilical cords are preserved from birth, and, at + death, those of men are placed within the door-frame, whilst those of + women are buried without—this last act corresponding, according to + Bombay, with the custom of the Wahiyow. On the death of any of the great + officers of state, the finger-bones and hair are also preserved; or if + they have died shaven, as sometimes occurs, a bit of their mbugu dress + will be preserved in place of the hair. Their families guard their tombs. + </p> + <p> + The story we heard at Karague, about dogs with horns in Unyoro, was + confirmed by Kidgwiga, who positively assured us that he once saw one in + the possession of an official person, but it died. The horn then was + stuffed with magic powder, and, whenever an army was ordered for war, it + was placed on the war-track for the soldiers to step over, in the same way + as a child is sacrificed to insure victory in Unyomuezi. Of the Karague + story, according to which all the Kidi people sleep in trees, Kidgwiga + gave me a modified version. He said the bachelors alone do son, whilst the + married folk dwell in houses. As most of these stories have some + foundation in fact, we presumed that the people of Kidi sometimes mount a + tree to sleep at night when travelling through their forests, where lions + are plentiful—but not otherwise. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—I sent Kidgwiga with my compliments to the king, and a request + that his majesty would change my residence, which was so filthy that I + found it necessary to pitch a tent, and also that he would favour me with + an interview after breakfast. The return was a present of twenty cows, ten + cocks, two bales of flour, and two pots of pombe, to be equally divided + between Grant and myself, as Kamrasi recognised in us two distinct camps, + because we approached his country by two different routes—a smart + method for expecting two presents from us, which did not succeed, as I + thanked for all, Grant being "my son" on this occasion. The king also sent + his excuses, and begged pardon for what happened to us on entering his + country, saying it could not have taken place had we come from Rumanika + direct. His fear of the Waganda gave rise to it, and he trusted we would + forget and forgive. To-morrow our residence should be changed, and an + interview follow, for he desired being friends with us just as much as we + did with him. + </p> + <p> + At last Bombay came back. He reported that he had not been allowed to + leave the palace earlier, though he pleaded hard that I expected his + return; and the only excuse he could extract from the king was, that we + were coming in charge of many Wakungu, and he had found it necessary to + retard our approach in consequence of the famine at Chaguzi. His palace + proper was not here, but three marches westward: he had come here and + pitched a camp to watch his brothers, who were at war with him. Bombay, + doing his best to escape, or to hurry my march, replied that he was very + anxious on our account, because the Waganda wished to snatch us away. + </p> + <p> + It was no doubt this hint that brought the messenger to our relief + yesterday; and otherwise we might have been kept in the jungle longer. + When told by Bombay of our treatment on the Nile, the king first said he + did not think we wished to see him, else we would have come direct from + Rumanika; but when asked if Baraka's coming with Rumanika's officers was + not sufficient to satisfy him on this point, he hung down his head, and + evaded the question, saying he had been the making of Mtesa of Uganda; but + he had turned out a bad fellow, and now robbed him right and left. <a + href="#linknote-23" name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a> + The Gani letter, supposed to be from Petherick, was now asked for, and a + suggestion made about opening a trade with Gani, but all with the + provoking result we had been so well accustomed to. No letter like that + referred to had ever been received, so that Frij's interpretation about + Grant's letter-dream was right; and if we wished to go to Gani, the king + would send men travelling by night, for his brothers at war with him lay + upon the road. As to the Uganda question, and my desiring him to make + friends with Mtesa, in hopes that the influence of trade would prevent any + plundering in future, he merely tossed his head. He often said he did not + know what to think about his guests, now he had got them; to which Bombay, + in rather successful imitation of what he had heard me say on like + occasions, replied, "If you do not like them after you have seen them, cut + their heads off, for they are all in your hands." + </p> + <p> + 11th.—With great apparent politeness Kamrasi sent in the morning to + inquire how we had slept. He had "heard our cry"—an expression of + regal condescension—and begged we would not be alarmed, for next + morning he would see us, and after the meeting change our residence, when, + should we not approve of wading to his palace, he would bridge all the + swamps leading up to it; but for the present he wanted two rounds of + ball-cartridge—one to fire before his women, and the other before + his officers and a large number of Kidi men who were there on a visit. To + please this childish king, Bombay was sent with two other of my men, and + no sooner arrived than a cow was placed before them to be shot. Bombay, + however, thinking easy compliance would only lead to continued demands on + our short store of powder, said he had no order to shoot cows, and + declined. A strong debated ensued, which Bombay, by his own account, + turned to advantage, by saying, "What use is there in shooting cows? we + have lots of meat; what we want is flour to eat with it." To which the + great king retorted, "If you have not got flour, that is not my fault, for + I ordered your master to come slowly, and to bring provisions along with + him." + </p> + <p> + Then getting impatient, as all his visitors wanted sport, he ordered the + cow out again, and insisted on my men shooting at it, saying at the same + time to his Kidi visitors, boastfully, "Now I will show you what devils + these Wanguana are: with firearms they can kill a cow with one bullet; and + as they are going to Gani, I advise you not to meddle with them." The Kidi + visitors said, "Nonsense; we don't believe in their power, but we will + see." Irate at his defeat, Bombay gave orders to the men to fire over the + cow, and told Kamrasi why he had done so—Bana would be angry with + him. "Well," said the king of kings, "if that is true, go back to your + master, tell him you have disappointed me before these men, and obtain + permission to shoot the cow in the morning; after which, should you + succeed, your master can come after breakfast to see me—but for the + present, take him this pot of pombe." + </p> + <p> + 12th.—To back Bombay in what he had said, I gave him two more + cartridges to shoot the cow with, and orders as well to keep Kamrasi to + his word about the oft-promised interview and change of residence. He gave + me the following account on his return:—Upwards of a thousand + spectators were present when he killed the cow, putting both bullets into + her, and all in a voice, as soon as they saw the effect of the shot, + shouted in amazement; the Kidi visitors, all terror-stricken, crying out, + as they clasped their breasts, "Oh, great king, do allow us to return to + our country, for you have indeed got a new specimen of man with you, and + we are greatly afraid!"—a lot of humbug and affectation to flatter + the king, which pleased him greatly. It was not sufficient, however, to + make him forget his regal pride; for though Bombay pleaded hard for our + going to see him, and for a change of residence, the immovable king, to + maintain the imperial state he had assumed as "king of kings," only said, + "What difference does it make whether your master sees me to-day or + to-morrow? If he wants to communicate about the road to Gani, his property + at Karague, or the guns at Uganda, he can do so as well through the medium + of my officers as with me direct, and I will send men whenever he wishes + to do so. Perhaps you don't know, but I expect men from Gani every day, + who took a present of slaves, ivory and monkey-skins to the foreigners + residing there, who, in the first instance sent me a necklace of beads + [showing them] by some men who wore clothes. They said white men were + coming from Karague, and requested the beads might be shown them should + they do so. They left this two moons before Baraka arrived here, and I + told them the white men would not come here, as I heard they had gone to + Uganda." + </p> + <p> + Bombay then, finding the king very communicative, went at him for his + inhospitality towards us, his turning us back from his country twice, and + now, after inviting us, treating us as Suwarora did. On this he gave, by + Bombay's account, the following curious reason for his conduct:—"You + don't understand the matter. At the time the white men were living in + Uganda, many of the people who had seen them there came and described them + as such monsters, they ate up mountains and drank the N'yanza dry; and + although they fed on both beef and mutton, they were not satisfied until + they got a dish of the 'tender parts' of human beings three times a-day. + Now, I was extremely anxious to see men of such wonderful natures. I could + have stood their mountain-eating and N'yanzi-drinking capacities, but on + no consideration would I submit to sacrifice my subjects to their + appetites, and for this reason I first sent to turn them back; but + afterwards, on hearing from Dr K'yengo's men that, although the white men + had travelled all through their country, and brought all the pretty and + wonderful things of the world there, they had never heard such monstrous + imputations cast upon them, I sent a second time to call them on: these + are the facts of the case. Now, with regard to your accusation of my + treating them badly, it is all their own fault. I ordered them to advance + slowly and pick up food by the way, as there is a famine here; but they, + instead, hurried on against my wishes. That they want to see and give me + presents you have told me repeatedly—so do I them; for I want them + to teach me the way to shoot, and when that is accomplished, I will take + them to an island near Kidi, where there are some men [his refractory + brothers] whom I wish to frighten away with guns; but still there is no + hurry,—they can come when I choose to call them, and not before." + Bombay to this said, "I cannot deliver such a message to Bana; I have told + so many falsehoods about your saying you will have an interview to-morrow, + I shall only catch a flogging"; and forthwith departed. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—More disgusted with Kamrasi than ever, I called Kidgwiga up, + and told him I was led to expect from Rumanika that I should find his king + a good and reasonable man, which I believed, considering it was said by an + unprejudiced person. Mtesa, on the contrary, told me Kamrasi treated all + his guests with disrespect, sending them to the farther side of the + N'yanzi. I now found his enemy more truthful than his friend, and wished + him to be told so. "For the future, I should never," I said, "mention his + name again, but wait until his fear of me had vanished; for he quite + forgot his true dignity as a host and king in his surprise and fear, + merely because we were in a hurry and desired to see him." He was reported + to-day, by the way, to be drunk. + </p> + <p> + As nothing could be done yesterday, in consequence of the king being in + his cups, the Wakungu conveyed my message to-day, but with the usual + effect, till a diplomatic idea struck me, and I sent another messenger to + say, if our residence was not changed at once, both Grant and myself had + made up our minds to cut off our hair and blacken our faces, so that the + king of all kings should have no more cause to fear us. Ignoring his + claims to imperial rank, I maintained that his reason for ill-treating us + must be fear,—it could be nothing else. This message acted like + magic; for he fully believed we would do as we said, and disappoint him + altogether of the strange sight of us as pure white men. The reply was, + Kamrasi would not have us disfigured in this way for all the world; men + were appointed to convey our traps to the west end at once; and Kidgwiga, + Vittagura, and Kajunju rushed over to give us the news in all hast lest we + should execute our threat, and they were glad to find us with our faces + unchanged. I now gave one cow to the head of Dr K'yengo's party, and one + to the head of Rumanika's men, because I saw it was through their + instrumentality we gained admittance in the country; and we changed + residence to the west end of Chaguzi, and found there comfortable huts + close to the Kafu, which ran immediately between us and the palace. + </p> + <p> + Still our position in Unyoro was not a pleasant one. In a long field of + grass, as high as the neck, and half under water, so that no walks could + be taken, we had nothing to see but Kamrasi's miserable huts and a few + distant conical hills, of which one Udongo, we conceive, represents the + Padongo of Brun-Bollet, placed by him in 1° south latitude, and 35° east + longitude. We were scarcely inside our new dwelling when Kamrasi sent a + cheer of two pots pombe, five fowls, and two bunches of plantains, hoping + we were now satisfied with his favour; but he damped the whole in a moment + again, by asking for a many-bladed knife which his officers had seen in + Grant's possession. I took what he sent, from fear of giving offence, but + replied that I was surprised the great king should wish to see my property + before seeing myself, and although I attached no more value to my property + than he did to his, I could not demean myself by sending him trifles in + that way. However, should he, after hearing my sentiments, still persist + in asking for the knife to be sent by the hands of a black man, I would + pack it up with all the things I had brought for him, and send them by a + black man, judging that he liked black men more than white. + </p> + <p> + Dr K'yengo's men then informed us they had been twice sent with an army of + Wanyoro to attack the king's brothers, on a river-island north of this + about three days' journey, but each time it ended in nothing. You fancy + yourself, they said, in a magnificent army, but the enemy no sooner turn + out than the cowardly Wanyoro fly, and sacrifice their ally as soon as not + into the hands of the opponents. They said Kamrasi would not expect us to + attack them with our guns. Rionga was the head of the rebels; there were + formerly five, but now only two of the brothers remained. + </p> + <p> + 15th.—Kamrasi, after inquiring after our health, and how we had + slept, through a large deputation of head men, alluded to the knife + question of yesterday, thinking it very strange that after giving me such + nice food I should deny him the gratification of simply looking at a + knife; he did not intend to keep it if it was not brought for him, but + merely to look at and return it. To my reply of yesterday I added, I had + been led, before entering Unyoro, to regard Kamrasi as the king of all + kings—the greatest king that ever was, and one worthy to be my + father; but now, as he expected me to amuse him with toys, he had lowered + himself in my estimation to the position of being my child. To this the + sages said, "Bana speaks beautifully, feelingly, and moderately. Of course + he is displeased at seeing his property preferred before himself; all the + right is on his side: we will now return and see what can be done—though + none but white men in their greatest dare send such messages to our king." + </p> + <p> + Dr K'yengo's men were now attacked by Kidgwiga for having taken a cow from + me yesterday, and told they should not eat it, because both they and + myself were the king's guests, and it ill became one to eat that which was + given as a dinner for the other. Fortunately, foreseeing this kind of + policy, as Kamrasi had been watching our actions, I invariably gave in + presents those cows which came with us from Uganda, and therefore defied + any one to meddle with them. This elicited the true facts of the case. Dr + K'yengo's men had been sent out to our camp to observe if anybody received + presents from us, as Kamrasi feared his subjects would have the fleecing + of us before his turn came; and these men had reported the two cows given + by me as mentioned above. Kamrasi no sooner heard of this than he took the + cows and kept them himself. In their justification, Dr K'yengo's men said + that had they not been in the country before us, Kamrasi would not have + had such guests at all; for when he asked them if the Waganda reports + about our cannibalism and other monstrosities were true, their head man + denied it all, offered to stand security for our actions, and told the + king if he found us cannibals he might make a Mohammedan of him, and + sealed the statement with his oath by throwing down his shield and bow and + walking over them. To this Kamrasi was said to have replied, "I will + accept your statements, but you must remain with me until they come." + </p> + <p> + Kajunju came with orders to say Kamrasi would seize anybody found staring + at us. I requested a definite answer would be given as regards Kamrasi's + seeing us. Dr K'yengo's men then said they were kept a week waiting before + they could obtain an interview, whilst Kajunju excused his king by saying, + "At present the court is full of Kidi, Chopi, Gani, and other visitors, + who he does not wish should see you, as some may be enemies in disguise. + They are all now taking presents of cows from Kamrasi, and going to their + homes, and, as soon as they are disposed of, your turn will come." + </p> + <p> + 16th.—We kept quiet all day, to see what effect that would have upon + the king. Kidgwiga told us that, when he was a lad, Kamrasi sent him with + a large party of Wanyoro to visit a king who lived close to a high + mountain, two months' journey distant, to the east or south-east of this, + and beg for a magic horn, as that king's doctor was peculiarly famed for + his skill as a magician. The party carried with them 600 majembe (iron + spades), two of which expended daily paid for their board and lodgings on + the way. The horn applied for was sent by a special messenger to Kamrasi, + who, in return, sent one of his horns; from which date, the two kings, + whenever one of them wishes to communicate with the other, sends, on the + messenger's neck, the horn that had been given him, which both serves for + credentials and security, as no one dare touch a Mbakka with one of these + horns upon his neck. + </p> + <p> + A common source of conversation among our men now was the desertion of + their comrades, all fancying how bitterly they would repent it when they + heard how we had succeeded, eating beef every day; and Uledi now, in a + joking manner, abused Mektub for having urged him to desert. He would not + leave Bana, and if he had not stopped, Mektub would have gone, for they + both served one master at Zanzibar, and therefore were like brothers; + whilst Mektub, laughing over the matter as if it were a good joke, said, + "I packed up my things to go, it is true; but I reflected if I got back to + the coast Said Majid would only make a slave of me again." M'yinzuggi, the + head of Rumanika's party, gave me to-day a tippet monkey-skin in return + for the cow I had given him on the 14th. These men, taking their natures + from their king Rumanika, are by far the most gentle, polite, and + attentive of any black men we have travelled amongst. + </p> + <p> + 17th.—Tired and out of patience with our prison—a river of + crocodiles on one side, and swamps in every other direction, while we + could not go out shooting without a specific order from the king—I + sent Kidgwiga and Kajunju to inform Kamrasi that we could bear this life + no longer. As he did not wish to see white men, our residing here could be + of no earthly use. I hoped he would accept our present from Bombay, and + give us leave to depart for Gani. The Wakungu, who thought, as well as + ourselves, that we were in nothing better than a prison, hurried off with + the message, and soon returned with a message from their king that he was + busily engaged decorating his palace to give us a triumphant reception; + for he was anxious to pay us more respect than anybody who had ever + visited him before. We should have seen him yesterday, only that it + rained; and, as a precaution against our meeting being broken up, a shed + was being built. He could not hear of our leaving the country without + seeing him. + </p> + <p> + 18th.—At last we were summoned to attend the king's levee; but the + suspicious creature wished his officers to inspect the things we had + brought for him before we went there. Here was another hitch. I could not + submit to such disrespectful suspicions, but if he wished Bombay to convey + my present to him, I saw no harm in the proposition. The king waived the + point, and we all started, carrying as a present the things enumerated in + the note. <a href="#linknote-24" name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> + The Union Jack led the way. At the ferry three shots were fired, when, + stepping into two large canoes, we all went across the Kafu together, and + found, to our surprise, a small hut built for the reception, low down on + the opposite bank, where no strange eyes could see us. + </p> + <p> + Within this, sitting on a low wooden stool placed upon a double matting of + skins—cows' below and leopards' above—on an elevated platform + of grass, was the great king Kamrasi, looking, enshrouded in his mbugu + dress, for all the world like a pope in state—calm and actionless. + One bracelet of fine-twisted brass wire adorned his left wrist, and his + hair, half an inch long, was worked up into small peppercorn-like knobs by + rubbing the hand circularly over the crown of the head. His eyes were + long, face narrow, and nose prominent, after the true fashion of his + breed; and though a finely-made man, considerably above six feet high, he + was not so large as Rumanika. A cow-skin, stretched out and fastened to + the roof, acted as a canopy to prevent dust falling, and a curtain of + mbugu concealed the lower parts of the hut, in front of which, on both + sides of the king, sat about a dozen head men. + </p> + <p> + This was all. We entered and took seats on our own iron stools, whilst + Bombay placed all the presents upon the ground before the throne. As no + greetings were exchanged, and all at first remained as silent as death, I + commenced, after asking about his health, by saying I had journeyed six + long years (by the African computation of five months in the year) for the + pleasure of this meeting, coming by Karague instead of by the Nile, + because the "Wanya Beri" (Bari people at Gondokoro) had defeated the + projects of all former attempts made by white men to reach Unyoro. The + purpose of my coming was to ascertain whether his majesty would like to + trade with our country, exchanging ivory for articles of European + manufacture; as, should he do so, merchants would come here in the same + way as they went from Zanzibar to Karague. Rumanika and Mtesa were both + anxious for trade, and I felt sorry he would not listen to my advice and + make friend with Mtesa; for unless the influence of trade was brought in + to check the Waganda from pillaging the country, nothing would do so. + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi, in a very quiet, mild manner, instead of answering the questions, + told us of the absurd stories which he had heard from the Waganda, said he + did not believe them, else his rivers, deprived of their fountains, would + have run dry; and he thought, if we did eat hills and the tender parts of + mankind, we should have had enough to satisfy our appetites before we + reached Unyoro. Now, however, he was glad to see that, although our hair + was straight and our faces white, we still possessed hands and feel like + other men. + </p> + <p> + The present was then opened, and everything in turn placed upon the red + blanket. The goggles created some mirth; so did the scissors, as Bombay, + to show their use, clipped his beard, and the lucifers were considered a + wonder; but the king scarcely moved or uttered any remarks till all was + over, when, at the instigation of the courtiers, my chronometer was asked + for and shown. This wonderful instrument, said the officers (mistaking it + for my compass), was the magic horn by which the white men found their way + everywhere. Kamrasi said he must have it, for, besides it, the gun was the + only thing new to him. The chronometer, however, I said, was the only one + left, and could not possibly be parted with; though, if Kamrasi liked to + send men to Gani, a new one could be obtained for him. + </p> + <p> + Then, changing the subject, much to my relief, Kamrasi asked Bombay, "Who + governs England?" "A woman." "Has she any children?" "Yes," said Bombay, + with ready impudence; "these are two of them" (pointing to Grant and + myself). That settled, Kamrasi wished to know if we had any specked cows, + or cows of any peculiar colour, and would we like to change four large + cows for four small ones, as he coveted some of ours. This was a + staggerer. We had totally failed, then, in conveying to this stupid king + the impression that we were not mere traders, ready to bargain with him. + We would present him with cows if we had such as he wanted, but we could + not bargain. The meeting then broke up in the same chilling manner as it + began, and we returned as we came, but no sooner reached home than four + pots of pombe were sent us, with a hope that we had arrived all safely. + The present gave great satisfaction. The Wanguana accused Frij of having + "unclean hands," because the beef had not lasted so long as it should do—it + being a notable fact in Mussulman creed, that unless the man's hands are + pure who cuts the throat of an animal, its flesh will not last fresh half + the ordinary time. + </p> + <p> + 19th.—As the presents given yesterday occupied the king's mind too + much for other business, I now sent to offer him one-third of the guns + left in Uganda, provided he would send some messengers with one of my men + to ask Mtesa for them, and also the same proportion of the sixty loads of + property left in charge of Rumanika at Karague, if he would send the + requisite number of porters for its removal. But of all things, I said, I + most wished to send a letter to Petherick at Gani, to apprise him of our + whereabouts, for he must have been four years waiting our arrival there, + and by the same opportunity I would get a watch for the king. He sent us + to-day two pots of pombe, one sack of salt, and what might be called a + screw of butter, with an assurance that the half of everything that came + to his house—and everything was brought from great distances in + boats—he would give me; but for the present the only thing he was in + need of was some medicine or stimulants. Further, I need be under no + apprehension if I did not find men at once to go on the three respective + journeys; it should be all done in good time, for he loved me much, and + desired to show us so much respect that his name should be celebrated for + it in songs of praise until he was bowed down by years, and even after + death it should be remembered. + </p> + <p> + I ascertained then that the salt, which was very white and pure, came from + an island on the Little Luta Nzige, about sixty miles west from the + Chaguzi palace, where the lake is said to be forty or fifty miles wide. It + is the same piece of water we heard of in Karague as the Little Luta + Nzige, beyond Utumbi; and the same story of Unyoro being an island + circumscribed by it and the Victoria N'yanza connected by the Nile, is + related here, showing that both the Karague and Unyoro people, as indeed + all negroes and Arabs, have the common defect in their language, of using + the same word for a peninsula and an island. The Waijasi—of whom we + saw a specimen in the shape of an old woman, with her upper lip edged with + a row of small holes, at Karague—occupy a large island on this lake + named Gasi, and sometimes come to visit Kamrasi. Ugungu, a dependency of + Kamrasi's, occupies this side, the lake, and on the opposite side is + Ulegga; beyond which, in about 2° N. lat. And 28° E. long., is the country + of Namachi; and further west still about 2°, the Wilyanwantu, or + cannibals, who, according to the report both here and at Karague, "bury + cows but eat men." These distant people pay their homage to Kamrasi, + though they have six degrees of longitude to travel over. They are, I + believe, a portion of the N'yam N'yams—another name for cannibal—whose + country Petherick said he entered in 1857-58. Among the other wild legends + about this people, it was said that the Wilyanwantu, in making + brotherhood, exchanged their blood by drinking at one another's veins; + and, in lieu of butter with their porridge, they smear it with the fat of + fried human flesh. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—I had intended for to-day an expedition to the lake; but + Kamrasi, harbouring a wicked design that we should help in an attack on + his brothers, said there was plenty of time to think of that; we would + only find that all the waters united go to Gani, and he wished us to be + his guests for three or four months at least. Fifty Gani men had just + arrived to inform him that Rionga had lately sent ten slaves and ten ivory + tusks to Petherick's post, to purchase a gun; but the answer was, that a + thousand times as much would not purchase a weapon that might be used + against us; for our arrival with Kamrasi had been heard of, and nothing + would be done to jeopardise our road. + </p> + <p> + To talk over this matter, the king invited us to meet him. We went as + before, minus the flag and firing, and met a similar reception. The Gani + news was talked over, and we proposed sending Bombay with a letter at + once. I could get no answer; so, to pass the time, we wished to know from + the king's own lips if he had prevented Baraka from going to Gani, as he + had carried orders from Rumanika as well as from myself to visit Kamrasi, + to give him fifty egg-beads, seventy necklaces of mtende, and seventy + necklaces of kutuamnazi beads, and then to pass on to Gani and give its + chief fifty egg-beads and forty necklaces of kutuamnazi. Kamrasi replied, + "I did not allow him to go, because I heard you had gone to Uganda"; and + Dr K'yengo's men happening to be present, added, "Baraka used up all the + beads save forty which he gave to Kamrasi, living upon goats all the way; + and when he left, took back a tusk of ivory." + </p> + <p> + This little controversy was amusing, but did not suit Kamrasi, who had his + eye on a certain valuable possession of mine. He made his approach towards + it by degrees, beginning with a truly royal speech thus: "I am the king of + all these countries, even including Uganda and Kidi—though the Kidi + people are such savages they obey no man's orders—and you are great + men also, sitting on chairs before kings; it therefore ill becomes us to + talk of such trifles as beads, especially as I know if you ever return + this way I shall get more from you." "Begging your majesty's pardon," I + said, "the mention of beads only fell in the way of our talk like stones + in a walk; our motive being to get at the truth of what Baraka did and + said here, as his conduct in returning after receiving strict orders from + Rumanika and ourselves to open the road, is a perfect enigma to us. We + could not have entered Unyoro at all excepting through Uganda, and we + could not have put foot in Uganda without visiting its king." Without + deigning to answer, Kamrasi, in the metaphorical language of a black man, + said, "It would be unbecoming of me to keep secrets from you, and + therefore I will tell you at once; I am sadly afflicted with a disorder + which you alone can cure." "What is it, your majesty? I can see nothing in + your face; it may perhaps require a private inspection." "My heart," he + said, "is troubled, because you will not give me your magic horn—the + thing, I mean, in your pocket, which you pulled out one day when Budja and + Vittagura were discussing the way; and you no sooner looked at it than you + said, 'That is the way to the palace.'" + </p> + <p> + So! the sly fellow has been angling for the chronometer all this time, and + I can get nothing out of him until he has got it—the road to the + lake, the road to Gani, everything seemed risked on his getting my watch—a + chronometer worth £50, which would be spoilt in his hands in one day. To + undeceive him, and tell him it was the compass which I looked at and not + the watch, I knew would only end with my losing that instrument as well; + so I told him it was not my guide, but a time-keeper, made for the purpose + of knowing what time to eat my dinner by. It was the only chronometer I + had with me; and I begged he would have patience until Bombay returned + from Gani with another, when he should have the option to taking this or + the new one. "No; I must have the one in your pocket; pull it out and show + it." This was done, and I placed it on the ground, saying, "The instrument + is yours, but I must keep it until another one comes." "No; I must have it + now, and will send it you three times every day to look at." + </p> + <p> + The watch went, gold chain and all, without any blessings following it; + and the horrid king asked if I could make up another magic horn, for he + hoped he had deprived us of the power of travelling, and plumed himself on + the notion that the glory of opening the road would devolve upon himself. + When I told him that to purchase another would cost five hundred cows, the + whole party were more confirmed than ever as to its magical powers; for + who in his sense would give five hundred cows for the mere gratification + of seeing at what time his dinner should be eaten? Thus ended the second + meeting. Kamrasi now said the Gani men would feast on beef to-morrow, and + the next day be ready to start with my men for Petherick's camp. He then + accompanies us to the boats, spear in hand, and saw us cross the water. + Long tail-hairs of the giraffe surrounded his neck, on which little balls + and other ornaments of minute beads, after the Uganda fashion, were + worked. In the evening four pots of pombe and a pack of flour were + brought, together with the chronometer, which was sent to be wound up—damaged + of course—the seconds-hand had been dislodged. + </p> + <p> + 21st.—I heard from Kidgwiga that some of those Gani men now ordered + to go with Bombay had actually been visiting here when the latter shot his + first cow at the palace, but had gone to their homes to give information + of us, and had returned again. Eager to get on with my journey, and see + European faces again, I besought the king to let us depart, as our work + was all finished here, since he had assured us he would like to trade with + England. The N'yanswenge—meaning Petherick's party—who have + hitherto been afraid to come here, would do so now, when they had seen us + pass safely down, and could receive my guns and property left to come from + Uganda and Karague, which we ourselves could not wait for. Kamrasi, + thinking me angry for his having taken the watch so rudely out of my + pocket, took fright at the message, sent some of his attendants quickly + back to me, requesting me to keep the instrument until another arrived, + and begged I would never say I wished to leave his house again. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—Kamrasi sent to say Bombay was not to start to-day, but + to-morrow, so we put the screw on again, and said we must go at once; if + he would give us guides to Gani, we would return him his twenty cows and + seven goats with pleasure. I let him understand we suspected he was + keeping us here to fight his brothers, and told him he must at once know + we would never lift hand against them. It was contrary to the laws of our + land. "I have got no orders to enter into black men's quarrels, and my + mother" (the Queen), "whom I see every night in my sleep calling me home, + would be very angry if she heard of it. Rumanika once asked me to fight + his brothers Rogero and M'yongo, but my only reply to all had been the + same—I have no orders to fight with, only to make friends of, the + great kings of Africa." + </p> + <p> + The game seemed now to be won. At once Kamrasi ordered Bombay to prepare + for the journey. Five Wanyoro, five Chopi men, and five Gani men, were to + escort him. There was no objection to his carrying arms. The moment he + returned, which ought to be in little more than a fortnight, we would all + go together. An earnest request was at the same time made that I would not + bully him in the mean time with any more applications to depart. So Bombay + and Mabruki, carrying there muskets, and a map and letter for Petherick, + departed. + </p> + <p> + 23d and 24th.—Kamrasi, presuming he had gained favour in our eyes, + sent, begging to know how we had slept, and said he would like us to + inform him what part of his journey Bombay had this morning reached—a + fact which he had no doubt must be divinable through the medium of our + books. The reply was, that Bombay's luck was so good we had no doubt + regarding his success; but now he had gone, and our days here were + numbered, we should like to see the palace, his fat wives and children, as + well as the Wanyoro's dances, and all the gaiety of the place. We did not + think our reception-hut by the river sufficiently dignified, and our + residence here was altogether like that of prisoners—seeing no one, + knowing no one. In answer to this, Kamrasi sent one pot of pombe and five + fowls, begging we would not be alarmed; we should see everything in good + time, if we would but have patience, for he considered us very great men, + as he was a great man himself, and we had come at his invitation. He must + request, in the mean time, that we would send no more messages by his + officers, as such messages are never conveyed properly. At present there + was a great deal of business in the palace. + </p> + <p> + We asked for some butter, but could get none, as all the milk in the + palace was consumed by the wives and children, drinking all day long, to + make themselves immovably fat. + </p> + <p> + 25th.—In the morning, the commander-in-chief wished us to cast a + horoscope, and see where Bombay was, and if he were getting on well. That + being negatived, he told us to put our hut in order, as Kamrasi was coming + to see us. Accordingly we made everything as smart as possible, hanging + the room round with maps, horns, and skins of animals, and places a large + box covered with a red blanket, as a throne for the king to set upon. As + he advanced, my men, forming a guard of honour fired three shots + immediately on his setting foot upon our side the river; whilst Frij, with + his boatswain's whistle, piped the 'Rogue's March,' to prepare us for his + majesty's approach. We saluted him, hat in hand, and, leading the way, + showed him in. He was pleased to be complimentary, remarking, what Waseja + (fine men) we were, and took his seat. We sat on smaller boxes, to appear + humble, whilst his escort of black "swells" filled the doorway, squatting + on the ground, so as to stop the light and interfere with our decorations. + </p> + <p> + After the first salutations, the king remarked the head of a nsamma buck, + and handled it; then noticed my mosquito-curtains hanging over the bed, + and begged for them. He was told they could not be given until Bombay + returned, as the mosquitoes would eat us up. "But there were two," said + the escort, "for we have seen one in the other hut." That was true; but + were there not two white men? However, if the king wanted gauze, here was + a smart gauze veil—and the veil vanished at once. The iron camp-bed + was next inspected, and admired; then the sextant, which was coveted and + begged for, but without success, much to the astonishment of the king, as + his attendants had led him to expect he would get anything he asked for. + Then the thermometers were wanted and refused; also table-knives, spoons, + forks, and even cooking-pots, for we had no others, and could not part + with them. The books of birds and animals had next to be seen, and being + admired were coveted, the king offering one of the books I first gave him + in exchange for one of these. In fact, he wanted to fleece us of + everything; so, to shut him up, I said I would not part with one bird for + one hundred tusks of ivory; they were all the collections I had made in + Africa, and if I parted with them my journey would go for nothing; but if + he wanted a few drawings of birds I would do some for him—at present + I wished to speak to him. "Well, what is it? we are all attention." "I + wish to know positively if you would like English traders to come here + regularly, as the Arabs do to trade at Karague? and if so, would you give + me a pembe (magic horn) as a warrant, that everybody may know Kamrasi, + king of Unyoro, desires it?" + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi replied, "I like your proposition very much; you shall have the + horn you ask for, either large or small, just as you please; and after you + have gone, should we hear any English are at Gani wishing to come here, as + my brothers are in the way we will advance with spears whilst they + approach with guns, and between us both, my brothers must fly—for I + myself will head the expedition. But now you have had your say I will have + mine if you will listen." "All right, your majesty; what is it?" "I am + constantly stricken with fever and pains, for which I know no remedy but + cautery; my children die young; my family is not large enough to uphold my + dignity and station in life; in fact, I am infirm and want stimulants, and + I wish you to prescribe for me, which considering you have found your way + to this, where nobody came before, must be easy to you." Two pills and a + draught for the morning were given as a preliminary measure, argument + being of no avail; and to our delight the king said it was time to go. + </p> + <p> + We jumped off our seats to show him the way, hoping our persecutions were + over; but still he sat, and sat, until at length, finding we did not take + the hint to give him a parting present, he said, "I never visited any big + man's house without taking home some trifle to show my wife and children." + "Indeed, great king! then you did not come to visit us, but to beg, eh? + You shall have nothing, positively nothing; for we will not have it said + the king did not come to see us, but to beg." Kamrasi's face changed + colour; he angrily said, "Irokh togend" (let us rise and go), and + forthwith walked straight out of the hut. Frij piped, but no guns fired; + and as he asked the reason why he was told it would be offensive to say we + were glad he was going. The king was evidently not pleased for no pombe + came to-day. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII. Unyoro—Continued + </h2> + <p> + The Ceremonies of the New Moon—Kamrasi's Rule and Discipline—An + Embassy from Uganda, and its Results—The Rebellious Brothers—An + African Sorcerer and his Incantations—The Kamraviona of Unyoro—Burial + Customs—Ethiopian Legends—Complicated Diplomacy for our + Detention—Proposal to send Princes to England—We get away. + </p> + <p> + 26th.—We found that the palace was shut up in consequence of the new + moon, seen for the first time last evening; and incessant drumming was the + order of the day. Still, private interviews might be granted, and I sent + to inquire after the state of the king's health. The reply was, that the + medicine had not taken, and the king was very angry because nothing was + given him when he took the trouble to call on us. He never called at a big + man's house and left it mwiko (empty-handed) before; if there was nothing + else to dispose of, could Bana not have given him a bag of beads? + </p> + <p> + To save us from this kind of incessant annoyance, I now thought it would + be our best policy to mount the high horse and bully him. Accordingly, we + tied up a bag of the commonest mixed beads, added the king's chronometer, + and sent them to Kamrasi with a violent message that we were thoroughly + disgusted with all that had happened; the beads were for the poor beggar + who came to our house yesterday, not to see us, but to beg; and as we did + not desire the acquaintance of beggars, we had made up our minds never to + call again, nor receive any more bread or wine from the king. + </p> + <p> + This appeared to be a hit. Kamrasi, evidently taken aback, said, if he + thought he should have offended us by begging, he would not have begged. + He was not a poor man, for he had many cows, but he was a beggar, of + course, when beads were in the question; and, having unwittingly offended, + as he desired our friendship, he trusted his offence would be forgiven. On + opening the chronometer, he again wrenched back the seconds-hand, and sent + it for repair, together with two pots of pombe as a peace-offering. Frij, + who accompanied the deputation, overheard the counsellors tell their king + that the Waganda were on their way back to Unyoro to snatch us away; on + hearing which the king asked his men if they would ever permit it; and, + handling his spear as if for battle, said at the same time he would lose + his own head before they should touch his guests. Then, turning to Frij, + he said, "What would you do if they came?—go back with them?" To + which Frij said, "No, never, when Gani is so near; they might cut our + heads off, but that is all they could do." The watch being by this time + repaired, it gave me the opportunity of sending Kidgwiga back to the + palace to say we trusted Kamrasi would allow Budja to come here, if only + with one woman to carry his pombe, else Mtesa would take offence, form an + alliance with Rionga, and surround the place with warriors, for it was not + becoming in great kings to treat civil messengers like dogs. + </p> + <p> + The reply to this was, that Kamrasi was very much pleased with my fatherly + wisdom and advice, and would act up to it, allowing Budja only to approach + with one woman; we need, however, be under no apprehensions, for Kamrasi's + power was infinite; the Gani road should be opened even at the spear's + point; he had been beating the big drum in honour of us the whole day; he + would not allow any beggars to come and see us, for he wanted us all to + himself, and for this reason had ordered a fence to be built all round our + house; but he had got no present from Grant yet, though all he wanted was + his mosquito-curtains, whilst he wished my picture-books to show his + women, and he returned. We sent a picture of Mtesa as a gift, the two + books to look at and an acknowledgement that the mosquito-curtains were + his, only he must have patience until Bombay arrived; but his proposition + about the fence we rejected with scorn. The king had been raising an army + to fight Rionga—the true reason, we suspect, for the beating of the + drums. + </p> + <p> + 27th and 28th.—There was drumming and music all day and night, and + the army was being increased to a thousand men, but we poor prisoners + could see nothing of it. Frij was therefore sent to inspect the armament + and brings us all the news. Some of N'yamyonjo's men, seeing mine armed + with carbines, became very inquisitive about them, and asked if they were + the instruments which shot at their men on the Nile—one in the arm, + who died; the other on the top of the shoulder, who was recovering. The + drums were kept in private rooms, to which a select few only were + admitted. Kamrasi conducts all business himself, awarding punishments and + seeing them carried out. The most severe instrument of chastisement is a + knob-stick, sharpened at the back, like that used in Uganda, for breaking + a man's neck before he is thrown into the N'yanza; but this severity is + seldom resorted to, Kamrasi being of a mild disposition compared with + Mtesa, whom he invariably alludes to when ordering men to be flogged, + telling them that were they in Uganda, their heads would suffer instead of + their backs. In the day's work at the palace, army collecting, ten + officers were bound because they failed to bring a sufficient number of + fighting men, but were afterwards released on their promising to bring + more. + </p> + <p> + Nothing could be more filthy than the state of the palace and all the + lanes leading up to it: it was well, perhaps, that we were never expected + to go there, for without stilts and respirators it would have been + impracticable, such is the dirty nature of the people. The king's cows, + even, are kept in the palace enclosure, the calves actually entering the + hut, where, like a farmer, Kamrasi walks amongst them up to his ankles in + filth, and, inspecting them, issues his orders concerning them. What has + to be selected for his guests he singles out himself. + </p> + <p> + Dr K'yengo's men, who had been sent three times into action against the + refractory brothers, asked leave to return to Karague; but the king, who + did not fear for their lives when his work was to be done, would not give + them leave, lest accident should befall them on the way. We found no + prejudice against eating butter amongst these Wahuma, for they not only + sold us some, but mixed it with porridge and ate it themselves. + </p> + <p> + 29th.—The king has appointed a special officer to keep our table + supplied with sweet potatoes, and sent us a pot of pombe, with his excuses + for not seeing us, as business was so pressing, and would continue to be + so until the army marched. Budja and Kasoro were again reported to be near + with a force of fifty Waganda, prepared to snatch us away; and the king, + fearing the consequences, had sent to inform Budja, that if he dared + attempt to approach, he would slip us off in boats to Gani, and then fight + it out with the Waganda; for his guests, since they had been handed over + to him, had been treated with every possible respect. + </p> + <p> + To keep Kamrasi to his promise, as we particularly wished to hear the + Uganda news, Frij was sent to inform him on my behalf that Mtesa only + wished to make friends with all the great kings surrounding his country + before his coronation took place, when his brothers would be burnt, and he + would cease to take advice from his mother. To treat his messengers + disrespectfully could do no good, and might provoke a war, when we should + see my deserters joined with the Waganda really coming in force against + us; whereas, if we saw Budja, we could satisfy him, and Mtesa too, and + obviate any such calamity. The reply was, that Kamrasi would arrange for + our having a meeting with Budja alone if we wished it; he did not fear my + deserters siding with king Mtesa, but he detested the Waganda, and could + not bear to see them in his country. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—At breakfast-time we heard that my old friend Kasoro had come + to our camp without permission, to the surprise of everybody, attended by + all his boys, leaving Budja and his children, on account of sickness, at + the camp assigned to the Waganda, five miles off. Kasoro wished to speak + to us, and we invited him into the hut; but the interview could not be + permitted until Kamrasi's wishes on the subject had been ascertained. In a + little while the Kamraviona, having seen Kamrasi, said we might converse + with one another whilst his officers were present listening, and sent a + cow as a present for the Waganda. Kasoro with his children now came before + us in their usual merry manner and, after saluting, told us how the + deserters, on reaching Uganda, begged for leave to proceed to Karague; but + Mtesa, who would only allow two of them to approach him, abused them, + saying, "Did I not command you to take Bana to Gani at all risks? If there + was no road by land, you were to go by water; or, if that failed, to go + under-ground, or in the air above, and if he died, you were to die with + him: what, then, do you mean by deserting him and flying here? You shall + not move a yard from this until I receive a messenger from him to hear + what he has got to say on the matter." Mtesa would not take their arms, + even at the desire of Budja, on my behalf; for as no messenger on my + behalf came to him, he would not believe what Budja said, and feared to + touch any of our property. The chief item of court news was, that Mtesa + had shot a buffalo which was attacking him behind the palace, and made his + Wakungu carry the animal bodily, whilst life was in it, into his court. + The ammunition I wrote for to Rumanika had been brought by Maula. + </p> + <p> + As Kasoro still remained silent with regard to Mtesa's message, I told him + we shot two of N'yamyonjo's men on our retreat up the Nile, and that + Kamrasi turned us back because some miscreant Waganda had forged lies and + told him we were terrible monsters, who ate hills and human flesh, and + drank up all the water of the lake. He laughed, but still was silent; so I + said, "What message have you brought from Mtesa?" To which, in a timid, + modest kind of manner, he said, "Bana knows—what more need I say? + Has he forgotten Mtesa, who loves him so?" I said, "No, indeed, I have not + forgotten Mtesa; and, moreover, as I expected you back again, I have sent + Bombay to bring the stimulants and all the things I promised Mtesa from + Gani; in two or three days he will return." "No," said Kasoro, "that is + not it; we must go to Gani with you; for Mtesa says he loves you so much + he will never allow you to part from his hand until his servants have seen + you safely at your homes." + </p> + <p> + I replied, "If Mtesa wishes you to see my vessels and all the wonders they + contain, as far as I am concerned you may do so, and I shall be only too + happy to show you a little English hospitality; but the road is in + Kamrasi's hands, and his wishes must now be heard." The + commander-in-chief, now content with all he had heard, went to Kamrasi to + receive his orders, whilst I gave Kasoro a feast of porridge and salt, + with pombe to wash it down, and a cow to take home with him; for the poor + creatures said they were all starving as the Wanyoro would not allow them + to take a single plantain from the field until Kamrasi's permission had + been given. + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi's reply now arrived; it was to the following effect:—"Tell + my children, the Waganda, they were never turned out of Unyoro by my + orders: if they wish to go to Gani, they can do so; but, first of all, + they must return to Mtesa, and ask him to deliver up all of Bana's men." I + answered, "No; if any one of those scoundrels who has deserted me ever + dares show his face to me again, I will shoot him like a dog. Moreover, I + want Mtesa to take their guns from them, and, without taking life, to + transport them all to an island on the N'yanza, where they can spend their + days in growing plantains; for it is such men who prevent our travelling + in the country and visiting kings." Kasoro on this said, "Mtesa will do so + in a minute if you send a servant to him, but he won't if we only say you + wish it." + </p> + <p> + The commander-in-chief then added, as to Kasoro's wish to accompany me, + "If Mtesa will send another time one of his people whose life he wishes + sacrificed on the journey, or tells, Here is a man whom I wish you to send + to Gani at all hazards, and without responsibility for his life on our + part, we will be very glad to send him; but as we are at war with the Gani + people continually, there will be no security for a Mganda's life there." + To this I added, "Now, Kasoro, you see how it is; Kamrasi does not wish + you to do to Gani, so if you take my advice you will return to Mtesa. Give + this tin cartridge-box, which first came from him, back to him again, to + show him you have seen me, and say, This is Bana's letter; he wishes you + to transport the deserters and seize their guns. The guns, of course, I + shall want again at some other time, when I will send one of my English + children to visit him; for now Kamrasi has opened his country to us, and + given us leave to come and purchase ivory, I never shall be very far + away." I gave them three pills for Budja, blistered two of the pages, and + started the whole merrily off, Kasoro asking me to send Mtesa some pretty + things from England such as he never saw. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—Kamrasi sent his commander-in-chief to inquire after my health, + and to say Budja had left in fear and trembling lest Mtesa should cut all + their heads off for failing in the mission; but he had sent Kidgwiga's + brother with a pot of pombe to escort the Waganda beyond his frontier, and + cheer them on the way; for the tin cartridge-box, he thought, would save + their lives by satisfying Mtesa they had seen me. The commander-in-chief + then told me Kamrasi did not wish them to accompany me through Kidi for + the Kidi people don't like the Waganda, and, discovering their nationality + by the fullness of their teeth, would bring trouble on us whilst trying to + kill them. I said I thanked Kamrasi for his having treated the Waganda + with such marked respect, in allowing them to see me, and sending them + back with an escort; but I thought it would have been better if he had + spoken the truth plainly out, for then I could have told them I feared to + have them in company with me. In return for my civilities, the king then + send one of his chopi officers to see me, who went four stages with + Bombay, and he also sent some rich beads which he wished me to look at. + They were nicely kept in a neat though very large casing of rush pith, and + were those sent as a letter from Gani, to inform him that we were expected + to come via Karague. After this, to keep us in good-humour, Kamrasi sent + to inform us that some Gani men, twenty-five in number, had just arrived, + and had given him a lion-skin, several tippet monkey-skins, and some + giraffe hair, as well as a stick of copper or brass wire. Bombay was met + by them on the confines of Gani. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—The king sent me a pot of pombe to-day, inquiring after my + health, and saying he would like to take the medicine I gave him if I + would send Frij over to administer it, but he would be ashamed to swallow + pills before me. Hitherto he had not been able to take the medicine from + press of business in collecting an army to fight his brothers; but as his + troops would all leave for war to-day, he expected to have leisure. + </p> + <p> + In plying the Kamraviona to try if we could get rid of the annoying + restraints which made our residence here a sort of imprisonment, I + discovered that the whole affair was not one of blunder or accident, but + that we actually were prisoners thus by design. It appeared that Kamrasi's + brothers, when they heard we were coming into Unyoro, murmured, and said + to the king, "Why are you bringing such guests amongst us, who will + practise all kinds of diabolical sorcery, and bring evil on us?" To which + Kamrasi replied, "I have invited them to come, and they shall come; and if + they bring evil with them, let that all fall on my shoulders, for you + shall not see them." He then built a palaver-house on the banks of the + Kafu to receive us in privately; and when we were to go to Gani, it was + his intention to slip us off privately down the Kafu. The brothers were so + thoroughly frightened, that when Kamrasi opened his chronometer before + them to show them the works in motion, they turned their heads away. The + large block-tin box I gave Kamrasi, as part of his hongo, was, I heard, + called Mzungu, or the white man, by him. + </p> + <p> + In the evening the beads recently brought from Gani were sent for my + inspection, with an intimation that Kamrasi highly approved of them, and + would like me to give him a few like them. Some of Kamrasi's spies, whom + he had sent to the refractory allies of Rionga his brother, returned + bringing a spear and some grass from the thatch of the hut of a Chopi + chief. The removal of the grass was a piece of state policy. It was stolen + by Kamrasi's orders, in order that he might spread a charm on the Chopi + people, and gain such an influence over them that their spears could not + prevail against the Wanyoro; but it was thought we might possess some + still superior magic powder, as we had come from such a long distance, and + Kamrasi would prefer to have ours. These Chopi people were leagued with + the brothers, and thus kept the highroad to Gani, though the other half of + Chopi remained loyal; and though Kamrasi continually sent armies against + the refractory half which aided his brothers, they never retaliated by + attacking this place. + </p> + <p> + We found, by the way, that certain drumming and harmonious accompaniments + which we had been accustomed to hear all day and night were to continue + for four moons, in celebration of twins born to Kamrasi since we came + here. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—Kamrasi's political department was active again to-day. Some + Gani officials arrived to inform him that there were two white men in the + vessel spoken of as at Gani; a second vessel was coming in there, and + several others were on their way. A carnelian was shown me which the Gani + people gave to Kamrasi many years ago. Kamrasi expressed a wish that I + would exchange magic powders with him. He had a very large variety, and + would load a horn for me with all those I desired most. He wanted also + medicines for longevity and perpetual strength. Those I had given him had, + he said, deprived him of strength, and he felt much reduced by their + effects. He would like me to go with him and attack the island his three + brothers, Rionga, Wahitu, and Pohuka, are in possession of. When I said I + never fought with black men, he wished to know if I would not shoot them + if they attacked me. My replay was, alluding to our fight in the river, + "How did N'yamyonjo's men fare?" I found that Kamrasi had thirty brothers + and as many sisters. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—I gave Kamrasi a bottle of quinine, which we call "strong + back," and asked him in return for a horn containing all the powders + necessary to give me the gift of tongues, so that I should be able to + converse with any black men whom I might meet with. We heard that Kamrasi + has called all his Gani guests to play before him, and a double shot from + his Blissett rifle announced to our ears that he in turn was amusing them. + This was the first time the gun had been discharged since he received it, + and, fearing to fire it himself, he called one of my men to do it for him. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—At 9 a.m., the time for measuring the fall of rain for the last + twenty-four hours, we found the rain-gauge and the bottle had been + removed, so we sent Kidgwiga to inform the king we wished his magicians to + come at once and institute a search for it. Kidgwiga immediately returned + with the necessary adept, an old man, nearly blind, dressed in strips of + old leather fastened to the waist, and carrying in one hand a cow's horn + primed with magic powder, carefully covered on the mouth with leather, + from which dangled an iron bell. The old creature jingled the bell, + entered our hut, squatted on his hams, looked first at one, then at the + other—inquired what the missing things were like, grunted, moved his + skinny arm round his head, as if desirous of catching air from all four + sides of the hut, then dashed the accumulated air on the head of his horn, + smelt it to see if all was going right, jingled the bell again close to + his ear, and grunted his satisfaction; the missing articles must be found. + </p> + <p> + To carry out the incantation more effectually, however, all my men were + sent for to sit in the open before the hut, when the old doctor rose, + shaking the horn and tinkling the bell close to his ear. He then, + confronting one of the men, dashed the horn forward as if intending to + strike him on the face, then smelt the head, then dashed at another, and + so on, till he became satisfied that my men were not the thieves. He then + walked into Grant's hut, inspected that, and finally went to the place + where the bottle had been kept. There he walked about the grass with his + arm up, and jingling the bell to his ear, first on one side, then on the + other, till the track of a hyena gave him the clue, and in two or three + more steps he found it. A hyena had carried it into the grass and dropped + it. Bravo, for the infallible horn! and well done the king for his honesty + in sending it! So I gave the king the bottle and gauge, which delighted + him amazingly; and the old doctor who begged for pombe, got a goat for his + trouble. My men now, recollecting the powder robbery at Uganda, said king + Mtesa would not send his horn when I asked for it, because he was the + culprit himself. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—Kidgwiga told us to-day that king Kamrasi's sisters are not + allowed to wed; they live and die virgins in his palace. Their only occupation + in life consisted of drinking milk, of which each one consumes the produce + daily of from ten to twenty cows, and hence they become so inordinately + fat that they cannot walk. Should they wish to see a relative, or go + outside the hut for any purpose, it requires eight men to lift any of them + on a litter. The brothers, too, are not allowed to go out of his reach. + This confinement of the palace family is considered a state necessity, as + a preventive to civil wars, in the same way as the destruction of the + Uganda princes, after a certain season, is thought necessary for the + preservation of peace there. + </p> + <p> + 7th.—In the morning the Kamraviona called, on the king's behalf, to + inquire after my health, and also to make some important communications. + First he was to request a supply of bullets, that the king might fire a + salute when Bombay returned from Gani; next, to ask for stimulative + medicine, now that he had consumed all I gave him, and gone through the + preliminary course; further, to request I would spread a charm over all + his subjects, so that their hearts might be inclined towards him, and they + would come without calling and bow down at his feet; finally, he wished me + to exchange my blood with him, that we might be brothers till death. I + sent the bullets, advised him to wait a day or two for the medicine, and + said there was only one charm by which he could gain the influence he + required over his subjects—this was, knowledge and the power of the + pen. Should he desire some of my children (meaning missionaries) to come + here and instruct his, the thing would be done; but not in one year, nor + even ten, for it takes many years to educate children. + </p> + <p> + As to exchanging by blood with a black man's, it was a thing quite beyond + my comprehension; though Rumanika, I must confess, had asked me to do the + same thing. The way the English make lasting friendships is done either by + the expressions of their hearts, or by the exchange of some trifles, as + keepsakes; and now, as I had given Kamrasi some specimens of English + manufacture, he might give me a horn, or anything else he chose, which I + could show to my friends, so as to keep him in recollection all my life. + </p> + <p> + The Kamraviona, before leaving, said, for our information, that a robbery + had occurred in the palace last night; for this morning, when Kamrasi went + to inspect his Mzungu (the block-tin box), which he had forgotten to lock, + he found all his beads had been stolen. After sniffing round among the + various wives, he smelt the biggest one to be the culprit, and turned the + beads out of her possession. Deputies came in the evening with a pot of + pombe and small screw of butter, to tell me some Gani people had just + arrived, bringing information that the vessel at Gani had left to go down + the river; but when intelligence reached the vessel of the approach of my + men they turned and came back again. Bombay was well feasted on the road + by Kamrasi's people, receiving eight cows from one and two cows from + another. + </p> + <p> + 8th and 9th.—We had a summons to attend at the Kafu palace with the + medicine-chest, a few select persons only to be present. It rained so much + on the 8th as to stop the visit, but we went next day. After arriving + there, and going through the usual salutations, Kamrasi asked us from what + stock of people we came, explaining his meaning by saying, "As we, + Rumanika, Mtesa, and the rest of us (enumerating the kings), are Wawitu + (or princes), Uwitu (or the country of princes) being to the east." This + interesting announcement made me quite forget to answer his question, and + induced me to say, "Omwita, indeed, as the ancient names for Mombas, if + you came from that place: I know all about your race for two thousand + years or more. Omwita, you mean, was the last country you resided in + before you came here, but originally you came from Abyssinia, the sultan + of which, our great friend, is Sahela Selassie." + </p> + <p> + He pronounced this name laughing, and said, "Formerly our stock was + half-white and half-black, with one side of our heads covered with + straight hair, and the other side frizzly: you certainly do know + everything." The subject then turned upon medicine, and after inspecting + the chest, and inquiring into all its contents, it ended by his begging + for the half of everything. The mosquito-curtains were again asked for, + and refused until I should leave this. As Kamrasi was anxious I should + take two of his children to England to be instructed, I agreed to do so, + but said I thought it would be better if he invited missionaries to come + here and educate all his family. His cattle were much troubled with + sickness, dying in great numbers—could I cure them? As he again + began to persecute us with begging, wanting knives and forks, etc., I + advised his using ivory as money, and purchasing what he wanted from Gani. + This brought out the interesting fact, the truth of which we had never + reached before, that when Petherick's servant brought him one necklace of + beads, and asked after us, he gave in return fourteen ivories, thirteen + women, and seven mbugu cloths. One of his men accompanied the visitors + back to the boats, and saw Petherick, who took the ivory and rejected the + women. + </p> + <p> + 10th.—At 2 p.m. we were called by Kamrasi to visit him at the Kafu + palace again, and requested to bring a lot of medicines tied up in various + coloured cloths, so that he might know what to select for different + ailments. We repaired there as before, putting the medicines into the + sextand-stand box, and found him lying at full length on the platform of + his throne, with a glass-bead necklace of various colours, and a charm + tied on his left arm. Nobody was allowed to be present at our interview. + The medicines, four varieties, were weighed out into ten doses each, and + their uses and effects explained. He begged for four bottles to put them + in, till he was laughed out of it by our saying he required forty bottles; + for if the powders were mixed, how could he separate them again? And to + keep his mind from the begging tack, which he was getting alarmingly near, + I said, "Now I have given you these things because you would insist on + having them. I must also tell you they are dangerous in your hands, in + consequence of your being ignorant of their properties. If you take my + advice you won't meddle with them until the two children you wish educated + have learnt the use of them in England; and if I have to take boys from + this, I hope they will be of your family." He said, "You speak like a + father to us, and we very much approve. Here is a pot of pombe; I did not + give you one yesterday." + </p> + <p> + 11th.—To-day, the king having graciously granted permission, we went + out shooting, but saw only a few buffalo tracks. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, and to + ascertain from me all I knew respecting the origin of Kamrasi's tribe, the + distribution of countries, and the seat of the government. I sent the king + a diagram, painted in various colours, with full explanations of + everything, and asked permission to send two more of my men in search of + Bombay, who had now been absent twenty days. The reply was, that if Bombay + did not return within four days, Kamrasi would send other men after him on + the fifth day; and, in the meantime, he sent one pot of pombe as a token + of his kind regard. + </p> + <p> + 13th.—The Kamraviona was sent to inquire after our health, to ask + for medicine for himself, and to inquire more into the origin of his race. + I, on the other hand, wishing to make myself as disagreeable as possible, + in order that Kamrasi might get tired of us, sent Frij to ask for fresh + butter, eggs, tobacco, coffee, and fowls, every day, saying, I will pay + their price when I reach Gani, for we were suffering from want of proper + food. Kamrasi was surprised at this clamour for food, and inquired what we + ate at home that we were so different from everybody else. + </p> + <p> + We heard to-day a strange story, involving the tragic fate of Budja. On + coming here, he had been bewitched by Kamrasi's frontier officer, who put + the charm into a pot of pombe. From the moment Budja drank it he was + seized with sickness, and remained so until he reached the first station + in Uganda, when he died. The facts of the bewitchment had been found out + by means of the perpetrator's wives, who, from the moment the pombe was + drunk, took to precipitate flight, well knowing what effects would follow, + and dreading the chastisement Mtesa would bring upon their household. We + heard, too, that the deserters had returned to the place they deserted + from, with thirty Waganda, and a present of some cows for me. + </p> + <p> + 14th.—-Kamrasi sent me four parcels of coffee, very neatly enclosed + in rush pith. + </p> + <p> + 15th.—Getting more impatient, and desirous to move on at any + sacrifice, I proposed giving up all claims to my muskets, as well as the + present of cows from Mtesa, if Kamrasi would give us boats to Gani at + once; but the reply was simply, Why be in such a hurry? + </p> + <p> + 16th.—The Kamraviona was sent to us with a load of coffee, which + Kamrasi had purchased with cowries, and to inquire how we had slept. Very + badly, was the reply, because we knew Bombay would have been back long ago + if Kamrasi was not concealing him somewhere, and we did not know what he + was doing with deserters and Waganda. Kamrasi then wanted us to paint his + mbugu cloths in different patterns and colours; but we sent him instead + six packages of red-ink powder, and got abused for sauciness. He then + wanted black ink, else how could he put on the red with taste; but we had + none to give him. Next, he asked leave for my men to shoot cows, before + his Kidi visitors, which they did to his satisfaction, instructing him at + the same time to fire powder with his own rifle; when, triumphant with his + success, he protested he would never use anything but guns again, and + threw away his spear as useless. Bombay, we learned, had reached Gani, and + ought to return in eight days. + </p> + <p> + 17th and 18th.—A large party of Chopi people arrived, by Kamrasi's + orders, to tell the reason which induced them to apply for guns to the + white men at Gani, as it appeared evident they must have wished to fight + their king. The Kidi visitors got broken heads for helping themselves from + the Wanyoro's fields, and when they cried out against such treatment, were + told they should rob the king, if they wished to rob at all. + </p> + <p> + 19th.—Nothing was done because Kamrasi was dismissing his Kidi + guests, 200, with presents of cows and women. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—Having asked Kamrasi to return my pictures, he sent the book + of birds, but not of animals; and said he could not see us until a new hut + was built, because the old one was flooded by the Kafu, which had been + rising several days. We must not, he said, talk about Bombay any more, + because everybody said he was detained by the N'yanswenge (Petherick's + party), and would return here with the new moon. I would not accept the + lie, saying, How can my "children" at Gani detain my messengers, when they + have received strict orders from me by letter to send an answer quickly? + It was all Kamrasi's doing, for he had either hidden Bombay, or ordered + his officers to take him slowly, as he did us, stopping four days at each + stage. + </p> + <p> + Frij again told me he was present when Said Said, the Sultan of Zanzibar, + sent an army to assist the Wagunya at Amu, on the coast, against the + incursions of the Masai. These Amu people have the same Wahuma features as + Kamrasi, whom they also resemble both in general physical appearance, and + in many of them having circular marks, as if made by cautery, on the + forehead and temples. These marks I took not to be tatooing or decorative, + but as a cure for disease—cautery being a favourite remedy with both + races. + </p> + <p> + The battle lasted only two days, though the Masai brought a thousand + spears against the Arabs' cannon. But this was not the only battle Said + Said had to fight on those grounds; for some years previously he had to + subdue the Waziwa, who live on very marshy land, into respect for his + sovereignty, when the battle lasted years, in consequence of the bad + nature of the ground, and the trick the Waziwa had of staking the ground + with spikes. The Wasuahili, or coast-people, by his description, are the + bastards or mixed breeds who live on the east coast of Africa, extending + from the Somali country to Zanzibar. Their language is Kisuahili; but + there is no land Usuahili, though people talk of going to the Suahili in + the same vague sense as they do of going to the Mashenzi, or amongst the + savages. The common story amongst the Wasuahili at Zanzibar, in regard to + the government of that island, was, that the Wakhadim, or aborigines of + Zanzibar, did not like the oppressions of the Portuguese, and therefore + allied themselves to the Arabs of Muscat—even compromising their + natural birthright of freedom in government, provided the Arabs, by their + superior power, would secure to them perpetual equity, peace and justice. + The senior chief, Sheikh Muhadim, was the mediator on their side, and + without his sanction no radial changes compromising the welfare of the + land could take place; the system of arbitration being, that the governing + Arab on the one side, and the deputy of the Wakhadim on the other, should + hold conference with a screen placed between them, to obviate all attempts + at favour, corruption, or bribery. + </p> + <p> + The former report of the approach of my men, with as many Waganda and cows + for me, turned out partly false, inasmuch as only one of my men was with + 102 Waganda, whilst the whole of the deserters were left behind in Uganda + with cows; and Kamrasi hearing this, ordered all to go back again until + the whole of my men should arrive. + </p> + <p> + 21st.—I was told how a Myoro woman, who bore twins that died, now + keeps two small pots in her house, as effigies of the children, into which + she milks herself every evening, and will continue to do so five months, + fulfilling the time appointed by nature for suckling children, lest the + spirits of the dead should persecute her. The twins were not buried, as + ordinary people are buried, under ground, but placed in an earthenware + pot, such as the Wanyoro use for holding pombe. They were taken to the + jungle and placed by a tree, with the pot turned mouth downwards. Manua, + one of my men, who is a twin, said, in Nguru, one of the sister provinces + to Unyanyembe, twins are ordered to be killed and thrown into water the + moment they are born, lest droughts and famines or floods should oppress + the land. Should any one attempt to conceal twins, the whole family would + be murdered by the chief; but, though a great traveller, this is the only + instance of such brutality Manua had ever witnessed in any country. + </p> + <p> + In the province of Unyanyembe, if a twin or twins die, they are thrown + into water for the same reason as in Nguru; but as their numbers increase + the size of the family, their birth is hailed with delight. Still there is + a source of fear there in connection with twins, as I have seen myself; + for when one dies, the mother ties a little gourd to her neck as a proxy, + and puts into it a trifle of everything which she gives the living child, + lest the jealousy of the dead spirit should torment her. Further, on the + death of the child, she smears herself with butter and ashes, and runs + frantically about, tearing her hair and bewailing piteously; whilst the + men of the place use towards her the foulest language, apparently as if in + abuse of her person, but in reality to frighten away the demons who have + robbed her nest. + </p> + <p> + 22d.—I sent Frij to Kamrasi to find out what he was doing with the + Waganda and my deserters, as I wished to speak with their two head + representatives. I also wanted some men to seek for and to fetch Bombay, + as I said I believed him to be tied by the leg behind one of the visible + hills in Kidi. The reply was, 102 Waganda, with one of my men only, had + been stationed at the village my men deserted from since the date (13th) + we heard of them last. They had no cows for me, but each of the Waganda + bore a log of firewood, which Mtesa had ordered them to carry until they + either returned with me or brought back a box of gunpowder, in default of + which they were to be all burnt in a heap with the logs they carried. + Kamrasi, still acting on his passive policy, would not admit them here, + but wished them to return with a message, to the effect that Mtesa had no + right to hold me as his guest now I had once gone into another's hands. We + were all three kings to do with our subjects as we liked, and for this + reason the deserters ought to be sent on here; but if I wished to speak to + the Waganda, he would call their officer. There was no fear, he said, + about Bombay; he was on his way; but the men who were escorting him were + spinning out the time, stopping at every place, and feasting every day. + To-morrow, he added, some more Gani people would arrive here, when we + should know more about it. I still advised Kamrasi to give the road to + Mtesa provided he gave up plundering the Wanyoro of women and cattle; but + if my counsel was listened to, I could get no acknowledgment that it was + so. + </p> + <p> + 23d and 24th.—I sent to inquire what news there was of Bombay's + coming, and what measures Kamrasi had taken to call the Waganda's chief + officer and my deserters here; as also to beg he would send us specimens + of all the various tribes that visit him, in order that me might draw + them. He sent four loads of dried fish, with a request for my book of + birds again, as it contains a portrait of king Mtesa, and proposed seeing + us at the newly-constructed Kafu palace to-morrow, when all requests would + be attended to. In the meanwhile, we were told that Bombay had been seen + on his way returning from Gani; and the Waganda had all run away + frightened, because they were told the Kidi and Chopi visitors, who had + been calling on Kamrasi lately, were merely the nucleus of an army forming + to drive them away, and to subdue Uganda. Mtesa was undergoing the + coronation formalities, and for this reason had sent the deserters to + Kari's hill, giving them cows and a garden to live on, as no visitors can + remain near the court while the solemnities of the coronation were going + on. The thirty-odd brothers will be burnt to death, saving two or three, + of which one will be sent into this country—as was the case with one + of the late king Sunna's brothers, who is still in Unyoro—and the + others will remain in the court with Mtesa as playfellows until the king + dies, when, like Sunna's two brothers still living in Uganda, one at + N'yama Goma and one at Ngambezi, they will be pensioned off. After the + coronation is concluded, it is expected Mtesa will go into Kittari, on the + west of Uganda, to fight first, and then, turning east, will fight with + the Wasoga; but we think if he fights anywhere, it will be with Kamrasi. + </p> + <p> + 25th and 26th.—I sent Frij to the palace to inquire after Bombay, + and got the usual reply: "Why is Bana in such a hurry? He is always for + doing things quickly. Tell my 'brother' to keep his mind at rest; Bombay + is now on the boundary of Gani coming here, and will in due course + arrive." Both Rumanika's men and those belonging to Dr K'yengo asked + Kamrasi's leave to return to their homes, but were refused, because the + road was unsafe. "Had they not," it was said, "heard of Budja's telling + Mtesa that K'yengo's children prevented the white men from returning to + Uganda? and since then Mtesa had killed his frontier officer for being + chicken-hearted, afraid to carry out his orders, and had appointed another + in his stead, giving him strict orders to make prisoners of all foreigners + who might pass that way; and, further, when some twenty Wanyoro were going + to Karague, they were hunted down by Mtesa's orders, and three of their + number killed; for he was determined to cut off all intercourse between + this country and Karague. They must therefore wait till the road is safe." + </p> + <p> + Hearing this, Dr K'yengo's men, who happened to be as well off here as + anywhere, accepted the advice; but Rumanika's men said, "We are starving; + we have been here too long already doing nothing, and must go, let what + will happen to us." Kamrasi said, "What will be the use of your going + empty-handed? I cannot send cows and slaves to Rumanika when the road is + so unsafe; you must wait a bit." But they still urged as before, and so + forced the king reluctantly to acquiesce, but only on the condition that + two of their head men should remain behind until some more of Rumanika's + men came to fetch them away—in fact, as we had been accredited to + him by Rumanika, he wanted to keep some of that king's people as a + security until we were out of his hands. + </p> + <p> + 27th.—I sent Frij to the palace to ask once more for leave to visit + the Luta Nzige river-lake to the westward, and to request Kamrasi would + send men to fetch my property from Karague. He sent four loads of small + fish and one pot of pombe, to say he would see me on the morrow, when + every arrangement would be made. Late at night orders came announcing that + I might write my despatches, as sixty men were ready to start for Karague. + </p> + <p> + 28th.—I sent one of my men with despatches to Kamrasi, who detained + him half the day, and then ordered him to call to-morrow. This being the + fifteenth or twentieth time Kamrasi had disappointed me, after promising + an interview, that we might have a proper understanding about everything, + and when no begging on his party was to interrupt our conversation, I sent + him a threatening message, to see what effect that would have. The purport + of it was, that I was afraid to send men to Karague, now I had seen his + disposition to make prisoners of all who visit him. Here had I been kept + six weeks waiting for Bombay's return from Gani, where I only permitted + him to go because I was told the journey to and fro would only occupy from + eight to ten days at most. Then Rumanika's men, who came here with Baraka, + though daily crying to get away, were still imprisoned here, without any + hope before them. If I sent Msalima, he would be kept ten years on the + road. If I went to the lake Luta Nzige, God only knows when he would let + me come back; and now, for once and for all, I wished to sacrifice my + property, and leave the countries of black kings; for what Kamrasi had + done, Mtesa had done likewise, detaining the two men I detached on a + friendly mission, which made me fear to send any more and inquire after my + guns, lest he should seize them likewise. I would stay no longer among + such people. + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi, in answer, begged I would not be afraid; there was no occasion + for alarm; Bombay would be here shortly. I had promised to wait patiently + for his return, and as soon as he did return, I would be sent off without + one day's delay, for I was not his slave, that he should use violence upon + me. Rumanika's men, too, would be allowed to go, only that the road was + unsafe, and he feared Rumanika would abuse him if any harm befell them. + </p> + <p> + 29th.—To-day I met Kamrasi at his new reception-palace on this side + the Kafu—taking a Bible to explain all I fancied I knew about the + origin and present condition of the Wahuma branch of the Ethiopians, + beginning with Adam, to show how it was the king had heard by tradition + that at one time the people of his race were half white and half black. + Then, proceeding with the Flood, I pointed out that the Europeans remained + white, retaining Japhet's blood; whilst the Arabs are tawny, after Shem; + and the African's black, after Ham. And, finally, to show the greatness of + the tribe, I read the 14th chapter of 2d Chronicles, in which it is + written how Zerah, the Ethiopian, with a host of a thousand thousand, met + the Jew Asa with a large army, in the valley of Zephathah, near Mareshah; + adding to it that again, at a much later date, we find the Ethiopians + battling with the Arabs in the Somali country, and with the Arabs and + Portuguese at Omwita (Mombas)—in all of which places they have taken + possession of certain tracts of land, and left their sons to people it. + </p> + <p> + To explain the way in which the type or physical features of people + undergo great changes by interbreeding, Mtesa was instanced as having lost + nearly every feature of his Mhuma blood, but the kings of Uganda having + been produced, probably for several generations running, of Waganda + mothers. This amused Kamrasi greatly, and induced me to inquire how his + purity of blood was maintained—"Was the king of Unyoro chosen, as in + Uganda, haphazard by the chief men—or did the eldest son sit by + succession on the throne?" The reply was, "The brothers fought for it, and + the best man gained the crown." + </p> + <p> + Kamrasi then began counting the leaves of the Bible, an amusement that + every negro that gets hold of a book indulges in; and, concluding in his + mind that each page or leaf represented one year of time since the + beginning of creation, continued his labour till one quarter of the way + through the book, and then only shut it up on being told, if he desired to + ascertain the number more closely, he had better count the words. + </p> + <p> + I begged for my picture-books, which were only lent him at his request for + a few days; and then began a badgering verbal conflict: he would not + return them until I drew others like them; he would not allow me to go to + the Little Luta Nzige, west of this, until Bombay returned, when he would + send me with an army of spears to lead the way, and my men with their guns + behind to protect the rear. This was for the purpose of making us his + tools in his conflict with his brothers. I complained that he had, without + consulting me, ordered away the men who had been sent, either to fetch me + back to Uganda, or else get powder from me, although they had orders to + carry out their king's desire, under the threat of being burnt with the + fire logs they carried; and all this Kamrasi had professed to do merely + out of respect for my dignity, as I was no slave, that Mtesa should order + me about. I argued, founding on each particular in succession, that his + conduct throughout was most unjustifiable, and anything but friendly. He + then produced an officer, who was to escort my man Msalima to Karague, + giving him orders to collect the sixty men required on the way; five of + Rumanika's men could go with him, but five must stop, until other Karague + men came to say the road was safe, when he would send by them the present + he had prepared for Rumanika. + </p> + <p> + Then, turning to us, he said, "Why have you not brought the medicine-chest + and the saw? We wish to see everything you have got, though we do not wish + to rob you." When these things came for inspection, he coveted the saw, + and discovered there were more varieties of medicine in the chest than had + been given him. This he was told was not the case, because the papers + given him contained mixed medicines—a little being taken from every + bottle. "But there are no pills; why won't you give us pills? We have men, + women, and children who require pills as well as you do." We were much + annoyed by this dogged begging; and as he said, "Well, if you won't give + my anything, I will go," we at once rose, hat in hand; when, regretting + the hastiness of his speech, he begged us to be seated again, and renewed + his demands. We told him the road to Gani was the only condition on which + we would part with any more medicine; we had asked leave to go a hundred + times, and that was all we now desired. At last he rose and walked off in + a huff; but, repenting before he reached home, he sent us a pot of pombe, + when, in return, I finished the farce by sending him a box of pills. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—I gave Msalima a letter in the Kisuahili or coast language to + convey to Rumanika, ordering all my property to be sent here, his account + of the things as they left him to be given to Msalima to convey to the + coast, while I sent him one pound of gunpowder as a sort of agency fee. + Msalima also took a map of all the countries we had passed, with lunar + observations, and a letter to Rigby, by which he, Baraka, and Uledi would + be able to draw their pay on arrival. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—I sent Frij with a letter to the king, containing an + acknowledgment that, on the arrival of the rear property from Karague, he + would be entitled to half of everything, reserving the other half for any + person I might in future send to take them from him. He accepted the + letter, and put it into his mzungu—the tin box I had given him. He + said he would take every care of the kit from the time it arrived, and + would not touch his share of it till my deputy arrived. An inhabitant of + Chopi reported that he heard Bombay's gun fire the evening before he left + home, and was rewarded with the present of a cow. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—I purchased a small kitten, Felis serval, from an Unyoro man, + who requested me to give it back to him to eat if it was likely to die, + for it is considered very good food in Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + Bombay at last arrived with Mabruki in high glee, dressed in cotton + jumpers and drawers, presents given them by Petherick's outpost. Petherick + himself was not there. The journey to and fro was performed in fourteen + days' actual travelling, the rest of the time being frittered away by the + guides. The jemadar of the guard said he commanded two hundred Turks, and + had orders to wait for me, without any limit as to time, until I should + arrive, when Petherick's name would be pointed out to me cut on a tree; + but as no one in camp could read my letter, they were doubtful whether we + were the party they were looking out for. + </p> + <p> + They were all armed with elephant-guns, and had killed sixteen elephants. + Petherick had gone down the river eight days' journey, but was expected to + return shortly. Kamrasi would not see Bombay immediately on his return, + but sent him some pombe, and desired an interview the following day. + </p> + <p> + 2d.—I sent Bombay with a farewell present to Kamrasi, consisting of + one tent, one mosquito-curtain, one roll of bindera or red cotton cloth, + one digester pot, one saw, six copper wires, one box of beads, containing + six varieties of the best sort, and a request to leave his country. Much + pleased with the things, Kamrasi ordered the tent to be pitched before all + his court, pointed out to them what clever people the white people are, + making iron pots instead of earthen ones. Covetous and never satisfied, + however, instead of returning thanks, he said he was sure I must have more + beads than those I sent him; and, instead of granting the leave asked for, + said he would think about it, and send the Kamraviona in the evening with + his answer. This, when it came, was anything but satisfactory; for we were + required to stop here until the king should have prepared the people on + the road for our coming, so that they might not be surprised, or try to + molest us on the way. Kamrasi, however, returned the books of birds and + animals, requesting a picture of the king of Uganda to be drawn for him, + and gave us one pot of pombe. + </p> + <p> + 3d.—I sent the picture required, and an angry message to Kamrasi for + breaking his word, as he promised us we should go without a day's delay; + and go we must, for I could neither eat nor sleep from thinking of my + home. His only reply to this was, Bana is always in a preposterous hurry. + He answered, that for our gratification he had directed a dwarf called + Kimenya to be sent to us, and the Kamraviona should follow after. Kimenya, + a little old man, less than a yard high, called on us with a walking-stick + higher than himself, made his salaam, and sat down very composedly. He + then rose and danced, singing without invitation, and following it up with + queer antics. Lastly, he performed the tambura, or charging-march, in + imitation of Wakugnu, repeating the same words they use, and ending by a + demand for simbi, or cowrie-shells, modestly saying, "I am a beggar, and + want simbi; if you have not 500 to spare, you must at any rate give me + 400." + </p> + <p> + He then narrated his fortune in life. Born in Chopi, he was sent for by + Kamrasi, who first gave him two women, who died; then another, who ran + away; and, finally, a distorted dwarf like himself, whom he rejected, + because he thought the propagation of his pigmy breed would not be + advantageous to society. Bombay then marched him back to the palace, with + 500 simbi strung in necklaces round his neck. When these two had gone, the + Kamraviona arrived with two spears, one load of flour, and a pot of pombe, + which he requested me to accept, adding that the spears were given as it + was observed I had accepted some from the king of Uganda; a shield was + still in reserve for me, and spears would be sent for Grant. Then with + regard to my going, Kamrasi must beg us to have patience until he had sent + messengers into Kidi, requesting the natives there not to molest me on the + way, for they had threatened they would do so, and if they persisted, he + would send us with a force by another route via Ugungu—another + attempt to draw us off to fight against his brothers. + </p> + <p> + I stormed at this announcement as a breach of faith; said I had given the + king my only tent, my only digester, my only saw, my only wire, my only + mosquito-curtains, and my last of everything, because he had assured me I + should have to pay no more chiefs, and he would give me the road at once. + If he did not intend now to fulfil his promise, I begged he would take + back his spears, for I would only accept them as a farewell present. The + Kamraviona finding me rather warm, with the usual pertinacious duplicity + of a negro, then said, "Well, let that subject drop, and consider the + present Kamrasi promised you when you gave him the Uganga" (meaning the + watch); "Kamrasi's horn is not ready yet." This second prevarication + completely set my dander up. If I did not believe in his dangers of the + way before, it quite settled my opinion of the worth of his words now. I + therefore tendered him what might be called the ultimatum to this effect. + There was no sincerity in such haggling; I would not submit to being told + lies by kings or anybody else. He must take back the spears, or give us + the road to-morrow; and unless the Kamraviona would tell him this and + bring me an answer at once, the spears should not remain in my house + during the night. Evidently in alarm, the Kamraviona, with Kidgwiga and + Frij in company to bear him witness, returned to the palace, telling + Kamrasi that he saw we were in thorough earnest. He extracted a promise + that Kamrasi would have a farewell meeting with us either to-morrow or the + next day, when we should have a large escort to Petherick's boats, and the + men would be able to bring back anything that he wanted; but he could not + let us go without a parting interview, such as we had at Uganda with + Mtesa. + </p> + <p> + The deputation, delighted with their success and the manner in which it + was effected, hurried back to me at once, and said they were so frightened + themselves that they would have skulked away to their homes and not come + near me if they could not have arranged matters to my satisfaction. + Kamrasi would not believe I had threatened to turn out his spears until + Frij testified to their statements; and he then said, "Let Bana keep the + spears and drink the pombe, for I would not wish him to be a prisoner + against his will." Bombay, after taking back the dwarf, met one of + N'yamasore's officers, just arrived from Uganda on some important + business, and upbraided Mtesa for not having carried out my instructions. + The officer in turn tried to defend Mtesa's conduct by saying he had given + the deserters seventy cows and four women, as well as orders to join us + quickly; but they had been delayed on the road, because wherever they went + they plundered, and no one liked their company. Had we returned to Uganda, + Mtesa would have given us the road through Masai, which, in my opinion, is + nearer for us than this one. + </p> + <p> + This officer had been wishing to see us as much as we had been to see him; + but Kamrasi would not allow him to get access to us, for fear, it was + said, lest the Waganda should know where we were hidden, and enable Mtesa + to send an army to come and snatch us away. As the officer said he would + deliver any message I might wish to send to Uganda, I folded a + visiting-card as a letter to the queen-dowager, intimating that I wished + the two men whom I sent back to Mtesa to be forwarded on to Karague; but + desired that the remainder, who deserted their master in difficulty, + should be placed on an island of the N'yanza to live in exile until some + other Englishman should come to release them; that their arms should be + taken from them and kept in the palace. I said further, that should Mtesa + act up to my desires, I would then know he was my friend, and other white + men would not fear to enter Uganda; but if he acted otherwise, they would + fear lest he should imprison them, or seize their property of their men. + If these deserters escaped punishment, no white men would ever dare trust + their lives with such men again. The officer said he should be afraid to + deliver such a message to Mtesa direct; but he certainly would tell the + queen every word of it, which would be even more efficacious. + </p> + <p> + 4th.—I bullied Kamrasi by telling him we must go with this moon, for + the benefit of its light whilst crossing the Kidi wilderness; as if we did + not reach the vessels in time for seasonable departure down the Nile, we + should have to wait another year for their return from Khartum. "What!" + said Kamrasi, "does Bana forget my promised appointment that I would + either see him to-day or to-morrow? I cannot do so to-day, and therefore + to-morrow we will certainly meet and bid good-bye." The Gani men, who came + with Bombay, said they would escort us to their country, although, as a + rule, they never cross the Kidi wilderness above once in two years, from + fear of the hunting natives, who make game of everybody and everything + they see; in other words, they seize strangers, plunder them, and sell + them as slaves. To cross that tract, the dry season is the best, when all + the grass is burnt down, or from the middle of December to the end of + March. I gave them a cow, and they at once killed it, and, sitting down, + commenced eating her flesh raw, out of choice. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—The Kamraviona came to inform us that the king was ready for + the great interview, where we could both speak what we had at heart, for + as yet he had only heard what our servants had to say; and there was a + supplement to the message, of the usual kind, that he would like a present + of a pencil. The pencil was sent in the first place, because we did not + like talking about trifles when we visited great kings. + </p> + <p> + The interview followed. It was opened on our side by our saying we had + enjoyed his hospitality a great number of days, and wished to go to our + homes; should he have any message to send to the great Queen of England, + we should be happy to convey it. A long yarn then emanated from the + throne. He defended his over-cautiousness when admitting us into Unyoro. + It was caused at first by wicked men who did not wish us to visit him; he + subsequently saw through their representations, and now was very pleased + with us as he found us. Of course he could not tie us down to stopping + here against our wish, but, for safety's sake, he would like us to stop a + little longer, until he could send messengers ahead, requesting the wild + men in Kidi not to molest us. That state trick failing to frighten and + stop us, he tried another, by saying, when we departed, he hoped we would + leave two men with guns behind, to occupy our present camp, and so delude + the people into the belief that merely a party of their followers, and not + the white men themselves, had left his house, for the purpose of spreading + terror in the minds of the people we might meet, who, not knowing the + number of men behind, would naturally conclude there was a large reserve + force ready to release us in case of necessity. + </p> + <p> + This foxy speech was too transparent to require one moment's reflection. + In a country where men were property, the fate of one or two left behind + was obvious; and had we doubted that his object was to get possession of + them, his next words would have sufficiently revealed it. He said, "As you + gave men to Mtesa, why would you refuse them to me?" but was checkmated on + being told, "Should any of those men who deserted us in this country ever + reach their homes, they will all be hung for breaking their allegiance or + oath." "Well," says the king, "I have acceded to everything you have to + say; and the day after to-morrow, when I shall have had time to collect + men to go with you, and selected the two princes you have promised to + educate, we will meet again and say good-bye; but you must give me a gun + and some more medicine, as well as the powder and ball you promised after + reaching the vessels." This was all acquiesced in, and we wished to take + his portrait, but he would not have it done on any consideration. The + Kamraviona and Kidgwiga followed us home, and told Bombay the king did not + wish us to leave till next moon, and then he would like us to fight his + brothers on the way. This message, sent in such an underhand manner after + the meeting, Bombay failed to deliver, telling them he should be afraid to + do so. + </p> + <p> + 6th.—The Kamraviona was sent to us with four loads of fish and a + request for ammunition, notwithstanding everything asked for yesterday had + been refused until we reached the vessels. "Confound Kamrasi!" was the + reply; "does he think we came here to trick kings that he doubts our + words? We came to open the road; and, as sure as we wish it, we will send + him everything that has been promised. Why should he doubt our word more + than anybody else? We are not accustomed to be treated in this manner, and + must beg he won't insult us any more. Then about fighting his brothers, we + have already given answer that we never fight with black men; and should + the king persist in it, we will never take another thing from his hands. + The boys shall not go to England, neither will any other white men come + this way." The Kamraviona made the following answer:—"But there are + two more things the king wishes to know about: he has asked the question + before, but forgotten the answers. Is there any medicine for women or + children which will prevent the offspring from dying shortly after birth?—for + it is a common infirmity in this country with some women, that all their + children die before they are able to walk, whilst others never lose a + child. The other matter of inquiry was, What medicine will attach all + subjects to their king?—for Kamrasi wants some of that most + particularly." I answered, "Knowledge of good government, attended with + wisdom and justice, is all the medicine we know of; and this his boys can + best learn in England, and instruct him in when they return." + </p> + <p> + 7th.—We went to meet Kamrasi at his Kafu palace to bid good-bye. + After all the huckstering and begging with which he had tormented us, the + state he chose to assume on this occasion was very ludicrous. He sat with + an air of the most solemn dignity, upon his throne of skins, regarding us + like mere slaves, and asking what things we intended to send to him. On + being told we did not like being repeatedly reminded of our promises, he + came down a little from his dignity, saying, "And what answer have you + about the business on the island?"—meaning the request to fight his + brothers. That, of course, could not be listened to, as it was against the + principle of our country. Grant's rings were then espied, and begged for, + but without success. We told him it was highly improper to beg for + everything he saw, and if he persisted in it, no one would ever dare to + come near him again. + </p> + <p> + Then, to change the subject, we begged K'yengo's men might be allowed to + go as far as Gani with us; but no reply was given, until the question was + put again, with a request that the reason might be told us for his not + wishing it, as we saw great benefit would be derived to Unyoro, as the + Wanyamuezi instead of trading merely with Karague and Zanzibar, would + bring their ivory through this country and barter it, thus converting + Unyoro into a great commercial country; when Kamrasi said, "We don't want + any more ivory in Unyoro; for the tusks are already as numerous as grass." + Kidgwiga was then appointed to receive all the things we were to send back + from Gani; our departure was fixed for the 9th; and the king walked away + as coldly as he came, whilst we felt as jolly as birds released from a + cage. + </p> + <p> + Floating islands of grass were seen going down the Kafu, reminding us of + the stories told at Kaze by Musa Mzuri, of the violent manner in which, at + certain season, the N'yanza was said to rise and rush with such velocity + that islands were uprooted and carried away. In the evening a pot of pombe + was brought, when the man in charge, half-drunk, amused us with frantic + charges, as if he were fighting with his spear; and after settling the + supposed enemy, he delighted in tramping him under foot, spearing him + repeatedly through and through, then wiping the blade of the spear in the + grass, and finally polishing it on this tufty head, when, with a grunt of + satisfaction, he shouldered arms and walked away a hero. + </p> + <p> + 8th.—As the king seemed entirely to disregard our comfort on the + journey, we made a request for cows, butter, and coffee, in answer to + which we only got ten cows, the other things not being procurable without + delay. Twenty-four men were appointed us to escort us and bring back our + presents from Gani, which were to be—six carbines, with a magazine + of ammunition, a large brass or iron water-pot, a hair-brush, lucifers, a + dinner-knife, and any other things procurable that had never been seen in + Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + Two orphan boys, seized by the king as slaves, were brought for education + in England; but as they were both of the common negro breed, with nothing + attractive about them, and such as no one could love but their mothers, we + rejected them, fearing lest no English boys would care to play with them, + and told Kamrasi that his offspring only could play with our children, and + unless I got some princes of that interesting breed, no one would ever + undertake to teach children brought from this country. The king was very + much disappointed at this announcement; said they were his adopted + children, and the only ones he could part with, for his own boys were mere + balls of fat, and too small to leave home. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIX. The March to Madi + </h2> + <p> + Sail down the Kafu—The Navigable Nile—Fishing and Sporting + Population—The Scenery on the River—An Inhospitable Governor—Karuma + Falls—Native Superstitions—Thieveries—Hospitable + Reception at Koki by Chongi. + </p> + <p> + After giving Kamrasi a sketching-stool, we dropped down the Kafu two miles + in a canoe, in order that the common people might not see us; for the + exclusive king would not allow any eyes but his own to be indulged with + the extraordinary sight of white men in Unyoro! The palace side of the + river, however, as we paddled away, was thronged with anxious spectators + amongst whom the most conspicuous was the king's favourite nurse. Dr + K'yengo's men were very anxious to accompany us, even telling the king, if + he would allow the road to be opened to their countrymen, all would hongo, + or pay customs-duty to him; but the close, narrow-minded king could not be + persuaded. Bombay here told us Kamrasi at the last moment wished to give + me some women and ivory; and when told we never accepted anything of that + sort, wished to give them to my head servants; but this being contrary to + standing orders also, he said he would smuggle them down to the boats for + Bombay in such a manner that I should not find out. + </p> + <p> + We were not expected to march again, but being anxious myself to see more + of the river, before starting, I obtained leave to go by boat as far as + the river was navigable, sending our cattle by land. To this concession + was accompanied a request for a few more gun-caps, and liberty was given + us to seize any pombe which might be found coming on the river in boats, + for the supplies to the palace all come in this manner. We then took boat + again, an immense canoe, and, after going a short distance, emerged from + the Kafu, and found ourselves on what at first appeared a long lake, + averaging from two hundred at first to one thousand yards broad before the + day's work was out; but this was the Nile again, navigable in this way + from Urondogani. + </p> + <p> + Both sides were fringed with the huge papyrus rush. The left one was low + and swampy, whilst the right one—in which the Kidi people and + Wanyoro occasionally hunt—rose from the water in a gently sloping + bank, covered with trees and beautiful convolvuli, which hung in festoons. + Floating islands, composed of rush, grass, and ferns, were continually in + motion, working their way slowly down the stream, and proving to us that + the Nile was in full flood. On one occasion we saw hippopotami, which our + men said came to the surface because we had domestic fowls on board, + supposing them to have an antipathy to that bird. Boats there were, which + the sailors gave chase to; but, as they had no liquor, they were allowed + to go their way, and the sailors, instead, set to lifting baskets and + taking fish from the snares which fisherman, who live in small huts + amongst the rushes, had laid for themselves. + </p> + <p> + After arrival, as we found the boatmen wished to make off, instead of + carrying out their king's orders to take us to the waterfall, we seized + all the paddles, and kept their tongues quiet by giving them a cow to eat. + The overland route, by which Kidgwiga and the cattle went, was not so + interesting, by all accounts, as the river one; for they walked the whole + way through marshy ground, and crossed one drain in boats, where some + savages struggled to plunder our men of their goats. + </p> + <p> + With a great deal of difficulty, and after hours of delay, we managed to + get under way with two boats besides the original one; and, after an hour + and a half's paddling in the laziest manner possible, the men seized two + pots of pombe and pulled in to Koki, guided by a king's messenger, who + said this was one of the places appointed by order to pick up recruits for + the force which was to take us to Gani. We found, however, nothing but + loss and disappointment—one calf stolen, and five goats nearly so. + Fortunately, the thief who attempted to run off with the goats was taken + by my men in the act, tied with his hands painfully tight behind his back, + and left, with his face painted white, till midnight, when his comrades + stole into Bombay's hut and released him. After all these annoyances, the + chief officer of the place offered us a present of a goat, but was sent to + the right-about in scorn. How could he be countenanced as a friend when + the men under him steal from us? + </p> + <p> + The big boat gave us the slip, floating away and leaving its paddles + behind. To supply its place, we took six small boats, turning my men into + sailors, and going as we liked. The river still continued beautiful; but + after paddling three hours we found it bend considerably, and narrow to + two hundred yards, the average depth being from two to three fathoms. At + the fourth hour, imagining our cattle to be far behind, we pulled in, and + walked up a well-cultivated hill to Yaragonjo's, the governor of these + parts. The guide, however, on first sighting his thorn-fenced cluster of + huts, regarding it apparently with the awe and deference due to a palace, + shrank from advancing, and merely pointed, till he was forced on, and in + the next minute we found ourselves confronted with the heads of the + establishment. The father of the house, surprised at our unexpected manner + of entrance—imagining, probably, we were the king's sorcerers, in + consequence of our hats, sent to fight "the brothers"—without saying + a word, quietly beckoned us to follow him out of the gate by the same way + as we came. Preferring, however, to have a little talk where we were, we + remained. + </p> + <p> + The eldest son, a fine young man considerably above six feet high, with + large gashes on his body received in war during late skirmishes with the + refractory brothers, now came in, did the honours, and, on hearing of the + importance of his visitors, directed us to some huts a little distance + off, where we could rest for the night, for there was no accommodation for + such a large party in the palace. The red hill we were now on, with + plantain-gardens, fine huts neatly kept, and dense grasses covering the + country, reminded us of our residence in Uganda. The people seemed of a + decidedly sporting order, for they kept hippopotamus-harpoons, attached to + strong ropes with trimmers of pith wood, in their huts; and, outside, + trophies of their toil in the shape of a pile of heads, consisting of + those of buffalo and hippopotami. The women, anything but pretty, wore + their mbugu cut into two flounces, fastened with a drawing-string round + the waist; and, in place of stockings, they bound strings of small iron + beads, kept bright and shining, carefully up the leg from the ankle to the + bottom of the calf. + </p> + <p> + Kidgwiga with our cattle arrived in the morning. A bundle of cartridges, + stolen from one of the men's pouches, which we knew could only have been + done by some comrade, was discovered by stopping the rations of flesh. The + guilty person, to save detection, threw it on the road, and allowed some + of the natives to pick it up. Strange as it may appear, the only motive + for this petty theft was the hope of being able to sell the cartridges for + a trifle at Gani. Yaragonjo brought us a present of a goat and plantains. + He was sorry he sent us back yesterday from his house; and invited us to + change ground to another village close by, where he would make + arrangements for our receiving other boats, as the ones we had in + possession must go back. Presuming this to be a very fair proposition, and + thinking we would only have to walk across an elbow of land where the + river bends considerably, we gave him a return-present of beads, and did + as we were bid; but, after moving, it was obvious we had been sold. We had + lost our former boats, and no others were near us; therefore, feeling + angry with Yaragonjo, I walked back to his palace, taking the presented + goat with me, as I knew that would touch the savage in the most tender + part; then flaring up with the officer for treating the king's orders with + contempt, as well as his guests, by sending us into the jungles like a + pack of thieves, whose riddance from his presence was obviously his only + intent, I gave him his goat again, and said I would have nothing more to + say to him, for I should look to the king for redress. + </p> + <p> + This frightened him to such an extent that he immediately produced another + and finer goat, which he begged me to accept, promising to convey all my + traps to the next governor's, where there would be no doubt about our + getting boats. He did not intend to deceive us, but committed an error in + not informing us he had no boats of his own; and, to show his earnestness, + accompanied us to the camp. Here I found the missing calf taken at Koki, + and a large deputation of natives awaiting our arrival. They told me that + the Koki governor had taken such fright in consequence of my anger when I + refused his proffered goat, that he had traced the calf back to Kitwara, + and now wished to take Kidgwiga a prisoner to Kamrasi's for having seized + five cows of his, and a woman from another governor. As yet I had not + heard of this piece of rough justice; and, on inquiry, found out that he + had been compelled to do as he had done, because those officers, on + finding we had gone ahead in boats would not produce the complement of men + required of them by the king's orders for escorting us to Gani; but now + they sent the men, the woman and cows could not be returned, as they had + been sent overland by the ordinary route to the ferry on the Nile. + </p> + <p> + Of course we would not listen to this reference for justice with Kamrasi, + as the woman and cows were still all alive; commended Kidgwiga for + carrying out his orders so well, and told the officers they had merited + their punishment—as how could the affairs of government be carried + on, when subordinate officers refused immediate compliance? The submkungu + of Northern Gueni, Kasoro, now proffered a goat and plantains, and + everything was settled for the day. + </p> + <p> + With a full complement of porters, travelling six miles through + cultivation and jungle, we reached the headquarters of governor Kaeru, + where all the porters threw down their loads and bolted, though we were + still two miles from the post. We inquired for the boats at once, but were + told they were some distance off, and we must wait here for the night. + Four pots of pombe were sent us, and Kaeru thought we would be satisfied + and conform. We suspected, however, that there was some trick at the + bottom of all; so, refusing the liquor, we said, with proper emphasis, + "Unless we are forwarded to the boats at once, and get them on the + following morning, we cannot think of receiving presents from any one." + This served our purpose, for a fresh set of porters was found like magic, + and traps, pombe, and all together, were forwarded to the journey's end—a + snug batch of huts imbedded in large plantain cultivation surrounded by + jungle, and obviously near the river, as numerous huge harpoons, intended + for striking hippopotami, were suspended from the roof. Kaeru here + presented us with a goat, and promised the boats in the morning. + </p> + <p> + After fighting for the boats, we still had to wait the day for Kidgwiga + and his men, who said it was all very well our pushing ahead, indifferent + as to whether men were enlisted or not, but he had to prepare for the + future also, as he could never recross the Kidi wilderness by himself; he + must have a sufficient number of men to form his escort, and these were + now grinding corn for the journey. Numerous visitors called on us here, + and consequently our picture-books were in great request. We gave Kaeru + some beads. + </p> + <p> + After walking two miles to the boats, we entered the district of Chopi, + subject to Unyoro, and went down the river, keeping the Kikunguru cone in + view. On arrival at camp, Viarwanjo, the officer of the district, a very + smart fellow, arrived with a large escort of spearmen, presented pombe, + ordered fowls to be seized for us, and promised one boat in the morning, + for he had no more disposable, and even that one he felt anxious about + lest the men on ahead should seize it. + </p> + <p> + I gave Viarwanjo some beads, and dropped down the river in his only + wretched little canoe—he, with Grant and the traps, going overland. + I caught a fever, and so spent the night. + </p> + <p> + Here I halted to please Magamba, the governor, who is a relation of the + king. He called in great state, presented a cow and pombe, was much + pleased with the picture-books, and wished to feast his eyes on all the + wonders in the hut. He was very communicative, also, as far as his limited + knowledge permitted. He said the people are only a sub-tribe of the Madi; + and the reason why the right bank of the river is preferred to the left + for travelling is, that Rionga, who lives down the river, is always on the + look-out for Kamrasi's allies, with a view to kill them. Magamba also, on + being questioned, told us about Ururi, a province of Unyoro, under the + jurisdiction of Kimerziri, a noted governor, who covers his children with + bead ornaments, and throws them into the N'yanza, to prove their identity + as his own true offspring; for should they sink, it stands to reason some + other person must be their father; but should they float, then he recovers + them. One of Kamrasi's cousins, Kaoroti, with his chief officer, called on + us, presenting five fowls as an honorarium. He had little to say, but + begged for medicine, and when given some in a liquid state, said his sub + would like some also; then Kidgwiga's wife, who was left behind, must have + some; and as pills were given for her, the two men must have dry medicine + too, to take home with them. Severe drain as this was on the + medicine-chest, Magamba and his wife must have both wet and dry; and even + others put in a claim, but were told they were too healthy to require + physicking. Many Kidi men, dressed as in the woodcut, crossed the river to + visit Kamrasi; they could not, however, pass us without satisfying their + curiosity with a look. Usually these men despise clothes, and never deign + to put any covering on except out of respect, when visiting Kamrasi. Their + "sou'-wester"-shaped wigs are made of other men's hair, as the negro hair + will not grow long enough. A message came from Ukero, the governor-general + of Chopi, to request we would not go down the river in boats to-morrow, + lest the Chopi ferrymen at the falls should take fright at our strange + appearance, paddle precipitately across the river, hide their boats, and + be seen no more. + </p> + <p> + We started, leaving all the traps and men to follow, and made this place + in a stride, as a whisper warned me that Kamrasi's officers, who are as + thick as thieves about here, had made up their minds to keep us each one + day at his abode, and show us "hospitality." Such was the case, for they + all tried their powers of persuasion, which failing, they took the + alternative of making my men all drunk, and sending to camp sundry pots of + pombe. The ground on the line of march was highly cultivated, and + intersected by a deep ravine of running water, whose sundry branches made + the surface very irregular. The sand-paper tree, whose leaves resemble a + cat's tongue in roughness, and which is used in Uganda for polishing their + clubs and spear-handles, was conspicuous; but at the end of the journey + only was there anything of much interest to be seen. There suddenly, in a + deep ravine one hundred yards below us, the formerly placid river, up + which vessels of moderate size might steam two or three abreast, was now + changed into a turbulent torrent. Beyond lay the land of Kidi, a forest of + mimosa trees, rising gently away from the water in soft clouds of green. + This, the governor of the place, Kija, described as a sporting-field, + where elephants, hippopotami, and buffalo are hunted by the occupants of + both sides of the river. The elephant is killed with a new kind of spear, + with a double-edged blade a yard long, and a handle which, weighted in any + way most easy, is pear-shaped. + </p> + <p> + With these instruments in their hands, some men climb into trees and wait + for the herd to pass, whilst others drive them under. The hippopotami, + however, are not hunted, but snared with lunda, the common tripping-trap + with spike-drop, which is placed in the runs of this animal, described by + every South African traveller, and generally known as far as the Hametic + language is spread. The Karuma Falls, if such they may be called, are a + mere sluice or rush of water between high syenitic stones, falling in a + long slope down a ten-feet drop. There are others of minor importance, and + one within ear-sound, down the river, said to be very grand. + </p> + <p> + The name given to the Karuma Falls arose from the absurd belief that + Karuma, the agent or familiar of a certain great spirit, placed the stones + that break the waters in the river, and, for so doing, was applauded by + his master, who, to reward his services by an appropriate distinction, + allowed the stones to be called Karuma. Near this is a tree which contains + a spirit whose attributes for gratifying the powers and pleasures of + either men or women who summon its influence in the form appropriate to + each, appear to be almost identical with that of Mahadeo's Ligna in India. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—We halted for the men to collect and lay in a store of food + for the passage of the Kidi wilderness. Presents of fish, caught in + baskets, were sent us by Kija. They were not bad eating, though all ground + animals of the lowest order. At the Grand Falls below this, Kidgwiga + informs us, the king had the heads of one hundred men, prisoners taken in + war against Rionga, cut off and thrown into the river. + </p> + <p> + 21st and 22d.—The governor, who would not let us go until we saw + him, called on the 22d with a large retinue, attended by a harpist, and + bringing a present of one cow, two loads flour, and three pots of pombe. + He expected a chair to sit upon, and got a box, as at home he has a throne + only a little inferior to Kamrasi's. He was very generous to Bombay on his + former journey to Gani; and then said he thought the white men were all + flocking this way to retake their lost country; for tradition recorded + that the Wahuma were once half-black and half-white, with half the hair + straight and the other half curly; and how was this to be accounted for, + unless the country formerly belonged to white men with straight hair, but + was subsequently taken by black men? We relieved his apprehensions by + telling him his ancestors were formerly all white, with straight hair, and + lived in a country beyond the salt sea, till they crossed that sea, took + possession of Abyssinia, and are now generally known by the name of + Hubshies and Gallas; but neither of these names was known to him. + </p> + <p> + On the east, beyond Kidi, he only knew of one clan of Wahuma, a people who + subsist entirely on meat and milk. The sportsmen of this country, like the + Wanyamuezi, plant a convolvulus of extraordinary size by the side of their + huts, and pile the jaw-bones and horns of their spoils before, as a means + of bringing good-luck. This same flower, held in the hand when a man is + searching for anything that he has lost, will certainly bring him to the + missing treasure. In the evening, Kidgwiga, at the head of his brave army, + made one of their theatrical charges on "Bana" with spear and shield, + swearing they would never desert him on the march, but would die to a man + if it were necessary; and if they deserted him, then might they be + deprived of their heads, or of other personal possessions not much less + valuable. + </p> + <p> + Just as we were ready for crossing the river, a line of Kidi men was + descried filing through the jungle on the opposite side, making their way + for a new-moon visit to Rionga, who occasionally leads them into battle + against Ukero. The last time they fought, two men only were killed on + Kamrasi's side, whilst nine fell on Rionga's. There was little done + besides crossing, for the last cow was brought across as sunset—the + ferrying-toll for the whole being one cow, besides a present of beads to + the head officer. Kidgwiga's party sacrificed two kids, one on either side + the river, flaying them with one long cut each down their breasts and + bellies. These animals were then, spread-eagle fashion, laid on their + backs upon grass and twigs, to be steeped over by the travellers, that + their journey might be prosperous; and the spot selected for the ordeal + was chosen in deference to the Mzimu, or spirit—a sort of wizard or + ecclesiastical patriarch, whose functions were devoted to the falls. + </p> + <p> + After a soaking night, we were kept waiting till noon for the forty + porters ordered by Kamrasi, to carry our property to the vessels wherever + they might be. Only twenty-five men arrived, notwithstanding the wife and + one slave belonging to a local officer, who would not supply the men + required of him, were seized and confiscated by Ukero, of Wire. We now + mustered twenty Wanguana, twenty-five country porters, and thirty-one of + Kidgwiga's "children"—making a total, with ourselves, of + seventy-eight souls. By a late arrival a message came from Kamrasi. Its + import was, that we must defer the march, as it was reported the + refractory brother Rionga harboured designs of molesting us on the way, + and therefore the king conceived it prudent to clear the road by first + fighting him. Without heeding this cunning advice, we made a short march + across swamps, and through thick jungle and long grasses, which proved + anything but pleasant—wet and labouring hard all the way. + </p> + <p> + It was a rainy day, and we had still to toil on fighting with the grasses. + We marched up the wet margin of swamp all day, crossing the water at a + fork near the end. The same jungle prevails on all sides, excluding all + view; and the only signs of man's existence in these wilds lay in the + meagre path, which is often lost, and an occasional hut or two, the + temporary residence of the sporting Kidi people. + </p> + <p> + After toiling five miles through the same terrible grasses, and crossing + swamp after swamp, we were at last rewarded by a striking view. The + jungles had thinned; we found ourselves unexpectedly standing on the edge + of a plateau, on the west of which, for distance interminable, lay + apparently a low flat country of grass, yellowed by the sun, with a few + trees or shrubs only thinly scattered over the surface; while, from + fifteen to twenty miles in the rear, bearing south by west, stood + conspicuously the hill of Kisuga, said to be situated in Chopi, not far + from the refractory brothers. But this view was only for the moment; again + we dived into the grasses and forced our way along. Presently elephants + were seen, also buffalo; and the guide, to make the journey propitious, + plucked a twig, denuded it of its leaves and branches, waved it like a + wand up the line of march, muttered some unintelligible words to himself, + broke it in twain, and threw the separated bits on either side of the + path. + </p> + <p> + Immediately after starting, the guide ran up on an ant-hill and pointed + out to us all the glories of the country round. In our rear we could see + back upon Wire and the hill of Kisuga; to the west were the same low + plains of grass; east and by south, the jungles of Kidi; and to the + northward, over downs of grass, the tops of some hills, which marked the + neighbouring village of Koki, which we were making for. Its appearance in + the distance warned us that we were closing on the habitations of men, and + we were told that Bombay had drunk pombe there. Then plunging through + grass again over our heads, and crossing constant swamps, we arrived at a + stream which drains all these lands to westward, and rested a while that + the men might bathe, and also that they might set fire to the grass as a + telegraph to the settlement of Koko, to apprise the people of our advance, + and be ready with their pombe ere our arrival. Shortly after, towards the + close of the day's work, as a solitary buffalo was seen grazing by a + brook, I put a bullet through him, and allowed the savages the pleasure of + despatching him in their own wild fashion with spears. + </p> + <p> + It was a sight quite worthy of a little delay. No sooner was it observed + that the huge beast could not retire, than, with springing bounds, the + men, all spear in hand, as if advancing on an enemy, went top speed at + him, over rise and fall alike, till, as they neared the maddened bull, he + instinctively advanced to meet his assailants with the best charge his + exhausted body could muster up. Wind, however, failed him soon; he knew + his disadvantage, and tried to hide by plunging in the water,—the + worst policy he could have pursued, for the men from the bank above him + soon covered him with bristling spears, and gained their victory. Now, + what was to be done with this huge carcass? No one could be induced to + leave it. A cow was ordered as a bribe on reaching camp; but no, the + buffalo was bigger than a cow, and must be quartered on the spot; so, to + gain our object, we went ahead and left the rear men to follow, thus + saving a cow in rations, for we required to slaughter one every day. + </p> + <p> + By dint of hard perseverance we accomplished ten miles over the same downs + of tall grass with occasional swamps. We saw a herd of hartebeest, and + reached at night a place within easy run of Koki in Gani. + </p> + <p> + The weather had now become fine. At length we reached the habitations of + men—a collection of conical huts on the ridge of a small chain of + granitic hills lying north-west. As we approached the southern extremity + of this chain, knots of naked men, perched like monkeys on the granite + blocks were anxiously awaiting our arrival. The guides, following the + usages of the country, instead of allowing us to mount the hill and look + out for accommodation at once, desired us to halt, and sent on a messenger + to inform Chongi, the governor-general, that we were visitors from + Kamrasi, who desired he would take care of us and forward us to our + brothers. This Mercury brought forth a hearty welcome; for Chongi had been + appointed governor by Kamrasi of this district, which appears to have been + the extreme northern limit of the originally vast kingdom of Kittara. All + the elite of the place, covered with war-paints, and dressed, so far as + their nakedness was covered at all, like clowns in a fair, charging down + the hill full tilt with their spears, and, after performing their + customary evolutions, mingled with our men, and invited us up the hill, + where we no sooner arrived than Chongi, a very old man, attended by his + familiar, advanced to receive us—one holding a white hen, the other + a small gourd of pombe and a little twig. + </p> + <p> + Chongi gave us all a friendly harangue by way of greeting; and taking the + fowl by one leg, swayed it to and fro close to the ground in front of his + assembled visitors. After this ceremony had been also repeated by the + familiar, Chongi then took the gourd and twig, and sprinkled the contents + all over us; retired to the Uganga, or magic house—a very diminutive + hut—sprinkled pombe over it; and, finally, spreading a cow-skin + under a tree, bade us sit, and gave us a jorum of pombe, making many + apologies that he could not show us more hospitality, as famine had + reduced his stores. What politeness in the midst of such barbarism!!! + Nowhere had we seen such naked creatures, whose sole dress consisted of + bead, iron, or brass ornaments, with some feathers or cowrie-beads on the + head. Even the women contented themselves with a few fibres hung like + tails before and behind. Some of our men who had seen the Watuta in + Utambara, declared these savages to resemble them in every particular, + save one small specialty in their costume, alluded to in the description + of the Zulu Kafir's dress. The hair of the men was dressed in the same + fantastic fashion, and the women placed half-gourds over the baby as it + rode on its mother's back. They also, like the Kidi people, whom they much + fear, carry diminutive stools to sit upon wherever they go. + </p> + <p> + Their habitat extends from this to the Asua river, whilst the Madi occupy + all the country west of this meridian to the Nile, which is far beyond + sight. The villages are composed of little conical huts of grass, on a + framework of bamboo raised above low mud walls. There are no sultans here + of any consequence, each village appointing its own chief. The granitic + hills, like those of Unyamuezi, are extremely pretty, and clad with trees, + contrasting strangely with the grassy downs of indefinite extend around, + which give the place, when compared with the people, the appearance of a + paradise within the infernal regions. From the site of Koki we saw the + hills behind which, according to Bombay, Petherick was situated with his + vessels; and we also saw a nearer hill, behind which his advanced post of + elephant-hunters were waiting our arrival. + </p> + <p> + I tried to ascertain if there were any prefixes, as in the South African + dialects, by which one might determine the difference between the people + and the country; but I was assured that both here and in the adjacent + countries these people saw Chopi, Kidi, Gani, Madi, Bari, alike for person + and place, though Jo in their language is the equivalent for Wa in South + Africa, and Dano takes the place of Mtu. All the words and system of + language were wholly changed—as for example, Poko poko wingi bongo, + means "we do not understand"; Mazi, "fire"; Pi, "water"; Pe, "there is + none"; Bugra, "cow." In sound, the language of these people resembles that + of the Tibet Tartars. Chongi considers himself the greatest man in the + country, and of noble descent, his great-grandfather having been a Mhuma, + born at Ururi, in Unyoro, and appointed by the then reigning king to rule + over this country, and keep the Kidi people in check. + </p> + <p> + 30th.—We halted at the earnest solicitation of Chongi, as well as of + the Chopi porters, who said they required a day to lay in grain, as the + Wichwezi, or mendicant sorcerers—for so they thought fit to + designate Petherick's elephant-hunters—had eaten up the country all + about them, and those who went before with Bombay to visit their camp + could get no food. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—We halted again at the request of all parties, and much to the + delight of old Chongi, who supplied us with abundant pombe, promised a + cow, that we should not be put to any extra expense by stopping, and said + that without fail he would furnish us with guides who knew a short cut + across country, by which we might reach the Wichwesi camp in one march, + instead of going by the circuitous route which Bombay formerly took. The + cow, however, never came, as the old man did not intend to give his own, + and his officers refused to obey his orders in giving one of theirs. + </p> + <p> + We left Koki with difficulty, in consequence of the Chopi porters refusing + to carry any loads, leaving the burden of lifting them on the country + people, as they said, "We have endured all the trouble and hardships of + bringing these visitors through the wilderness; and now, as they have + visited you, it is your place to help them on." The consequence was, we + had to engage fresh porters at every village, each in turn saying he had + done all the work which with justice fell to his lot, till at last we + arrived at the borders of a jungle, where the men last engaged, feeling + tired of their work, pleaded ignorance of the direct road, and turned off + to the longer one, where villages and men were in abundance, thus + upsetting all our plans, and doubling the actual distance. + </p> + <p> + To pass the night half-way was now imperative, as we had been the whole + day travelling without making good much ground. From the Gani people we + had, without any visible change, mingled with the Madi people, who dress + in the same naked fashion as their neighbours, and use bows and arrows. + Their villages were all surrounded with bomas (fences), and the country in + its general aspect resembled that of Northern Unyamuezi. At one place, the + good-natured simple people, as soon as we reached their village, spread a + skin, deposited a stool upon it, and placed in front two pots of pombe. At + the village where we put up, however, the women and children of the head + man at first all ran away, and the head man himself was very shy of us, + thinking we were some unearthly creatures. He became more reconciled to + us, however, when he perceived we fed like rational beings; and, calling + his family in by midnight, presented us with pombe, and made many + apologies for having allowed us to dine without a drop of his beer, for he + was very glad to see us. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XX. Madi + </h2> + <p> + Junction of the Two Hemispheres—The First Contact with Persons + Acquainted with European Habits—Interruptions and Plots—The + Mysterious Mahamed—Native Revelries—The Plundering and Tyranny + of the Turks—The Rascalities of the Ivory Trade—Feeling for + the Nile—Taken to see a Mark left by a European—Buffalo, + Eland, and Rhinoceros Stalking—Meet Baker—Petherick's Arrival + at Gondokoro. + </p> + <p> + After receiving more pombe from the chief, and, strange to say, hot water + to wash with—for he did not know how else to show hospitality better—we + started again in the same straggling manner as yesterday. In two hours we + reached the palace of Piejoko, a chief of some pretensions, and were + summoned to stop and drink pombe. In my haste to meet Petherick's + expedition, I would listen to nothing, but pushed rapidly on, despite all + entreaties to stop, both from the chief and from my porters, who, I saw + clearly, wished to do me out of another day. + </p> + <p> + Half of my men, however, did stop there, but with the other half Grant and + I went on; and, as the sun was setting, we came in sight of what we + thought was Petherick's outpost, N. lat. 3° 10' 33", and E. long. 21° 50' + 45". My men, as happy as we were ourselves, now begged I would allow them + to fire their guns, and prepare the Turks for our reception. Crack, bang, + went their carbines, and in another instant crack, bang, was heard from + the northerners' camp, when, like a swarms of bees, every height and other + conspicuous place was covered with men. Our hearts leapt with an + excitement of joy only known to those who have escaped from long-continued + banishment among barbarians, once more to meet with civilised people, and + join old friends. Every minute increased this excitement. We saw three + large red flags heading a military procession, which marched out of the + camp with drums and fifes playing. I halted and allowed them to draw near. + When they did so, a very black man, named Mahamed, in full Egyptian + regimentals, with a curved sword, ordered his regiment to halt, and threw + himself into my arms, endeavouring to hug and kiss me. Rather staggered at + this unexpected manifestation of affection, which was like a conjunction + of the two hemispheres, I gave him a squeeze in return for his hug, but + raised my head above the reach of his lips, and asked who was his master? + "Petrik," was the reply. "And where is Petherick now?" "Oh, he is coming." + "How is it you have not got English colours, then?" "The colours are + Debono's." "Who is Debono?" "The same as Petrik; but come along into my + camp, and let us talk it out there;" saying which, Mahamed ordered his + regiment (a ragamuffin mixture of Nubians, Egyptians, and slaves of all + sorts, about two hundred in number) to rightabout, and we were guided by + him, whilst his men kept up an incessant drumming and fifing, presenting + arms and firing, until we reached his huts, situated in a village kept + exactly in the same order as that of the natives. Mahamed then gave us two + beds to sit upon, and ordered his wives to advance on their knees and give + us coffee, whilst other men brought pombe, and prepared us a dinner of + bread and honey and mutton. + </p> + <p> + A large shed was cleared for Grant and myself, and all my men were ordered + to disperse, and chum in ones and twos with Mahamed's men; for Mahamed + said, now we had come there, his work was finished. "If that is the case," + I said, "tell us your orders; there must be some letters." He said, "No, I + have no letters or written orders; though I have directions to take you to + Gondokoro as soon as you come. I am Debono's Vakil, and am glad you are + come, for we are all tired of waiting for you. Our business has been to + collect ivory whilst waiting for you." I said, "How is it Petherick has + not come here to meet me? is he married?" "Yes, he is married; and both he + and his wife ride fore-and-aft on one animal at Khartum." "Well, then, + where is the tree you told Bombay you would point out to us with + Petherick's name on it?" "Oh, that is on the way to Gondokoro. It was not + Petherick who wrote, but some one else, who told me to look out for your + coming this way. We don't know his name, but he said if we pointed it out + to you, you would know at once." + </p> + <p> + 4th.—After spending the night as Mahamed's guest, I strolled round + the place to see what it was like, and found the Turks were all married to + the women of the country, whom they had dressed in clothes and beads. + Their children were many, with a prospect of more. Temporary marriages, + however, were more common than others—as, in addition to their + slaves, they hired the daughters of the villagers, who remained with them + whilst they were trading here, but went back to their parents when they + marched to Gondokoro. They had also many hundreds of cattle, which it was + said they had plundered from the natives, and now used for food, or to + exchange for ivory, or other purposes. The scenery and situation were + perfect for health and beauty. The settlement lay at the foot of small, + well-wooded granitic hills, even prettier than the outcrops of Unyamuezi, + and was intersected by clear streams. + </p> + <p> + At noon, all the rear troops arrived with Bombay and Piejoko in person. + This good creature had treated Bombay very handsomely on his former + journey. He said he felt greatly disappointed at my pushing past him + yesterday, as he wished to give me a cow, but still hoped I would go over + and make friends with him. I gave him some beads and off he walked. Old + Chongi's "children," who had escorted us all the way from Kamrasi's, then + took some beads and cast-off clothes for themselves and their father, and + left us in good-humour. + </p> + <p> + This reduced the expedition establishment to my men and Kidgwiga's. With + these, now, as there was no letter from Petherick, I ordered a march for + the next morning, but at once met with opposition. Mahamed told me that + there were no vessels at Gondokoro; we must wait two months, by which time + he expected they would arrive there, and some one would come to meet him + with beads. I said in answer, that Petherick had promised to have boats + there all the year round, so I would not wait. "Then," said Mahamed, "we + cannot go with you, for there is a famine at this season at Gondokoro." I + said, "Never mind; do you give me an interpreter, and I will go as I am." + "No," said Mahamed, "that will not do, as the Bari people are so savage, + you could not get through them with so small a force; besides which, just + now there is a stream which cannot be crossed for a month or more." + </p> + <p> + Unable to stand Mahamed's shifting devices with equanimity any longer, I + accused him of trying to trick me in the same way as all the common savage + chiefs had done wherever I went, because they wished me to stop for their + own satisfaction, quite disregarding my wishes and interest; so I said I + would not stop there any longer I would raft over the river, and find my + way through the Bari, as I had through the rest of the African savages. We + talked and talked, but could make nothing of it. I maintained that if he + was commissioned to help me, he at least could not refuse to give me a + guide and interpreter; when, if I failed in the direct route, I would try + another, but go I must, as I could not hold out any longer, being short of + beads and cows. I had just enough, but none to spare. He told me not to + think of such a thing, as he would give me all that was needful, both for + myself and my men; but if I would have patience, he would collect all his + officers, and the next morning would see what their opinions were on the + subject. + </p> + <p> + 5th.—I found that every one of Mahamed's men was against our going + to Gondokoro. They told me, in fact, with one voice, that it was quite + impossible; but they said, if I liked they would furnish me guides to + escort me on ten marches to a depot at the further end of the Madi + country, and if I chose to wait there until they could collect all their + ivory tusks together and join us, we would be a united party too + formidable to be resisted by the Bari people. This offer of immediate + guides I of course accepted at once, as to keep on the move was my only + desire at that time; for my men were all drunk, and Kidgwiga's were + deserting. Once more on the way, I did not despair of reaching Gondokoro + by myself. In the best good-humour now, I showed Mahamed our + picture-books: and as he said he always drilled his two hundred men every + Friday, I said I would, if he liked, command them myself. This being + agreed to, all the men turned out in their best, and, to my surprise, they + not only knew the Turkish words of command, but manoeuvred with some show + of good training; though, as might have been expected with men of this + ragamuffin stamp, all the privates gave orders as well as their captains. + </p> + <p> + When the review was over, I complimented Mahamed on the efficiency of his + corps, and, retiring to my hut, as I thought I had him now in a + good-humour, again discussed our plans for going ahead the next day. + Scarcely able to look me in the face, the humbugging scoundrel said he + could not think of allowing me to go on without him, for if any accident + happened he would be blamed for it. At the same time, he could not move + for a few days, as he expected a party of men to arrive about the next new + moon with ivory. My hurry he thought was uncalled for; for, as I had spent + so many days with Kamrasi, why could I not be content to do so with him? + </p> + <p> + I was provoked beyond measure with this, as it upset all my plans. + Kidgwiga's men were deserting, and I feared I should not be able to keep + my promise to Kamrasi of sending him another white visitor, who would + perhaps do what I had left undone, when I did not follow up the connection + of the Little Luta Nzige with the Nile. We battled away again, and then + Mahamed said there was not one man in his camp who would go with me until + their crops were cut and taken in; for whilst residing here they grew + grain for their support. We battled again, and Mahamed at last, out of + patience himself, said, "Just look here, what a fix I am in," showing me a + hut full of ivory. "Who," he said, "is to carry all this until the natives + have got in their crops?" This, I said, so far as I was concerned, was all + nonsense. I merely had asked him for a guide and interpreter, for go I + must. In a huff he then absconded; and my men—those of them who were + not too drunk—came and said to me, "For Godsake let us stop here. + Mahamed says the road is too dangerous for us to go alone; he has promised + to carry all our loads for us if we stop; and all Kamrasi's men are + running away, because they are afraid to go on." + </p> + <p> + 6th.—Next morning I called Kidgwiga, and begged him to procure two + men as guides and interpreters. He said he could not find any. I then went + at Mahamed again, who first said he would give me the two men I wanted, + then went off, and sent word to say he would not be visible for three + days. This was too much for my patience, so I ordered all my things to be + tied up in marching order, and gave out that I should leave and find out + the way myself the following morning. Like an evil spirit stirred up, my + preparations for going no sooner were heard of than Mahamed appeared + again, and after a long and sharp contest in words, he promised us guides + if I would consent to write him a note, testifying that my going was + against his expressed desire. + </p> + <p> + This was done; but the next morning (7th), after our things were put out + for the march, all Kidgwiga's men bolted, and no guides would take service + with us. It was now obvious that, even supposing I succeeded in taking + Kidgwiga to Gondokoro, he would not have a sufficient escort to come back + with, unless, indeed, it happened that Englishmen might be there who might + wish to carry out my investigations by penetrating to the Little Luta + Nzige, and to pay a visit to Kamrasi. I therefore called Kidgwiga, and + after explaining these circumstances, advised him to go back to Kamrasi. + He was loth to leave, he said, until his commission was fully performed; + but as I thought it advisable, he would consent. I then gave him a double + gun and ammunition, as well as some very rich beads which I obtained from + Mahamed's stores, to take back to Kamrasi, with orders to say that, as + soon as I reached Gondokoro or Khartum, I would send another white man to + him—not by the way I had come through Kidi, but by the left bank of + the Nile: to which Kidgwiga replied, "That will do famously, for Kamrasi + will change his residence soon, and come on the Nile this side of Rionga's + palace, in order that he may cut in between his brother and the Turks' + guns." + </p> + <p> + After this, I gave a lot of rich beads to Kidgwiga for himself, and a lot + also for the senior officers at the Chopi and Kamrasi's palaces, and sent + the whole set off as happy as birds. When these men were gone, I tried to + get up an elephant-shooting excursion due west of this, with a view to see + where the Nile was, for I would not believe it was very far off, although + no one as yet, since I left Chopi, either would or could tell me where the + stream had gone to. + </p> + <p> + 8th. Mahamed professed to be delighted I had made up my mind to such a + scheme. He called the heads of the villages to give me all the information + I sought for, and went with me to the top of a high rock, from which we + could see the hills I first viewed at Chopi, sweeping round from south by + east to north, which demarked the line of the Asua river. The Nile at that + moment was, I believed, not very far off; yet, do or say what I would, + everybody said it was fifteen marches off, and could not be visited under + a month. <a href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a> + It would be necessary for me to take thirty-six of Mahamed's men, besides + all my own, to go there, which, he said, I was welcome to, but I should + have to pay them for their services. This was a damper at once. + </p> + <p> + I knew in my mind all these reports were false, but, rather than be out of + the way when the time came for marching, I agreed to wait patiently, write + the history of the Wahuma, and make collections, till Mahamed was ready, + trusting that I might find some one at Gondokoro who would finish what I + had left undone; or else, after arriving there, I might go up the Nile in + boats and see for myself. The same evening I was attracted by the sound of + drums to a neighbouring village, where, by the moonlight, I found the + natives were dancing. A more indecent or savage spectacle I never + witnessed. The whole place was alive with naked humanity in a state of + constant motion. Drawing near, I found that a number of drums were beaten + by men in the centre. Next to them was a deep ring of women, half of whom + carried their babies; and outside these again was a still deeper circle of + men, some blowing horns, but most holding their spears erect. To the sound + of the music both these rings of the opposite sexes kept jumping and + sidling round and round the drummers, making the most grotesque and + obscene motions to one another. + </p> + <p> + 9th to 14th.—Nothing of material consequence happened until the + 14th, when eighty of Rionga's men brought in two slaves and thirty tusks + of ivory, as a present to Mahamed. Of course, I knew this was a bribe to + induce Mahamed to fight with Rionga against Kamrasi; but, counting that no + affair of mine, I tried to induce these men to give me some geographical + information of the countries they had just left. Not one of them would + come near me, for they knew I was friends with Kamrasi; and Mahamed's men, + when they saw mine attempting to converse with them, abused them for + "prying into other men's concerns." "These men," they said, "are our + friends, and not yours; if we choose to give them presents of cloth and + beads, and they give us a return in ivory, what is that to you?" + Mysterious Mahamed next came to me, and begged for a blanket, as he said + he was going off for a few days to a depot where he had some ivory; and he + also wanted to borrow a musket, as one of his had been burnt. + </p> + <p> + My suspicions and even apprehensions, were now greatly excited. I began to + think he had prevailed on me to stop here, that I might hold the place + whilst he went to fight Kamrasi with Rionga's men; so I begged him to + listen to my advice, and not attempt to cross the Nile, "else," I said, + "all his guns would be taken from him, and his passage back cut off." At + once he saw the drift of my thought, and said he was not going towards the + Nile, but on the contrary, he was going with Rionga's men in the opposite + direction, to a place called Paira. "If that is the case," I said, "why do + you want a gun?" "Because there are some other matters to settle. I shall + not be long away, and my men will take care of you whilst I am gone." I + gave him the blanket after this, but was too suspicious of his object to + lend him a gun. + </p> + <p> + 15th to 20th.—I saw Mahamed march his regiment out of the place, + drums and fifes playing, colours flying, a hundred guns firing, officers + riding,—some of them on donkeys and others—yes, actually on + cows! whilst a host of the natives, Rionga's men included, carrying spears + and bows and arrows, looked little like a peaceful caravan of merchants, + but very much resembled a band of marauders. After this I heard they were + not going to Rionga himself, but were going to show Rionga's men the way + that they made friends with old Chongi of Koki. In reality, Chongi had + invited Mahamed to fight against an enemy of his, in whose territories + immense stores of ivory were said to be buried, and the people had an + endless number of cattle—for they lived by plunder, and had lifted + most of old Chongi's; and this was the service on which the expedition had + set off. + </p> + <p> + 21st to 31st.—I had constantly wondered, ever since I first came + here, and saw the brutal manner in which the Turks treated the natives, + that these Madi people could submit to their "Egyptian taskmasters," and + therefore was not surprised now to find them pull down their huts and + march off with the materials to a distant site. Every day this sort of + migration continued, just as you see in the picture; and nothing more + important occurred until Christmas-day, when an armadillo was caught, and + I heard from Mahamed's head wife that the Turks had plundered and burnt + down three villages, and in all probability they would return shortly + laden with ivory. This was a true anticipation; for, on the 31st, Mahamed + came in with his triumphant army laden with ivory, and driving in five + slave-girls and thirty head of cattle. + </p> + <p> + 1st to 3d.—I now wished to go on with the journey, as I could get no + true information out of the suspicious blackguards who called themselves + Turks; but Mahamed postponed it until the 5th, by which time he said he + would be able to collect all the men he wanted to carry his ivory. + Rionga's men then departed, and Mahamed showed some signs of getting ready + by ordering one dozen cows to be killed, the flesh of which was to be + divided amongst those villagers who would carry his ivory, and the skins + to be cut into thongs for binding the smaller tusks of ivory together in + suitable loads. + </p> + <p> + 4th and 5th.—Another specimen of Turkish barbarity came under my + notice, in the head man of a village bringing a large tusk of ivory to + Mahamed, to ransom his daughter with; for she had been seized as a slave + on his last expedition, in common with others who could not run away fast + enough to save themselves from the Turks. Fortunately for both, it was + thought necessary for the Turks to keep on good terms with the father as + an influential man; and therefore, on receiving the tusk, Mahamed gave + back the girl, and added a cow to seal their friendship. + </p> + <p> + 6th to 10th.—I saw this land-pirate Mahamed take a blackmail like a + negro chief. Some men who had fled from their village when Mahamed's + plundering party passed by them the other day, surprised that he did not + stop to sack their homes, now brought ten large tusks of ivory to him to + express the gratitude they said they felt for his not having molested + them. Mahamed, on finding how easy it was to get taxes in this fashion, + instead of thanking them, assumed the air of the great potentate, whose + clemency was abused, and told the poor creatures that, though they had + done well in seeking his friendship, they had not sufficiently considered + his dignity, else they would have brought double that number of tusks, for + it was impossible he could be satisfied at so low a price. "What," said + these poor creatures, "can we do then? for this is all we have got." "Oh," + says Mahamed, "if it is all you have got now in store, I will take these + few for the present; but when I return from Gondokoro, I expect you will + bring me just as many more. Good-bye, and look out for yourselves." + </p> + <p> + Tired beyond all measure with Mahamed's procrastination, as I could not + get him to start, I now started myself, much to his disgust, and went + ahead again, leaving word that I would wait for him at the next place, + provided he did not delay more than one day. The march led us over long + rolling downs of grass, where we saw a good many antelopes feeding; and + after going ten miles, we came, among other villages, to one named + Panyoro, in which we found it convenient to put up. At first all the + villagers, thinking us Turks, bolted away with their cattle and what + stores they could carry; but, after finding out who we were, they returned + again, and gave us a good reception, helping us to rig up a shed with + grass, and bringing a cow and some milk for our dinner. + </p> + <p> + 12th.—To-day I went out shooting, but though I saw and fired at a + rhinoceros, as well as many varieties of antelopes, I did not succeed in + killing one head. All my men were surprised as well as myself; and the + villagers who were escorting me in the hope of getting flesh, were so + annoyed at their disappointment, they offered to cut my fore-finger with a + spear and spit on it for good-luck. Joining in their talk, I told them the + powder must be crooked; but, on inspecting my rifle closer, I found that + the sights had been knocked on one side a little, and this created a + general laugh at all in turn. Going home from the shooting, I found all + the villagers bolting again with their cattle and stores, and, on looking + towards Faloro, saw a party of Turks coming. + </p> + <p> + As well as I could I reassured the villagers, and brought them back again, + when they said to me, "Oh, what have you done? We were so happy yesterday + when we found out who you were, but now we see you have brought those men, + all our hearts have sunk again; for they beat us, they make us carry their + loads, and they rob us in such a manner, we know not what to do." I told + them I would protect them if they would keep quiet; and, when the Turks + came, I told them what I had said to the head man. They were the vanguard + of Mahamed's party, and said they had orders to march on as far as Apuddo + with me, where we must all stop for Mahamed, who, as well as he could, was + collecting men. There was a certain tree near Apuddo which was marked by + an Englishman two years ago, and this, Mahamed thought, would keep us + amused. + </p> + <p> + The next march brought us to Paira, a collection of villages within sight + of the Nile. It was truly ridiculous; here had we been at Faloro so long, + and yet could not make out what had become of the Nile. In appearance it + was a noble stream, flowing on a flat bed from west to east, and + immediately beyond it were the Jbl (hills) Kuku, rising up to a height of + 2000 feet above the river. Still we could not make out all, until the + following day, when we made a march parallel to the Nile, and arrived at + Jaifi. + </p> + <p> + This was a collection of huts close to a deep nullah which drains The + central portions of Eastern Madi. At this place the Turks killed a + crocodile and ate him on the spot, much to the amusement of my men, who + immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are + these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a + crocodile." + </p> + <p> + After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to see + the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before. There, + sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its bark, + but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had healed up. + In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks said he was + exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice even much + resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro two years + ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts the people + gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like the prospect + of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at Faloro. He knew + we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed Mahamed to point out + his name if we did so. + </p> + <p> + We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained + outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a + camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told they + had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking their + dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they wanted. It + was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in our trying + to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would make enough + to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their lot; for the + "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there seemed to be + nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers sought for wild + berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves out of their + half-filled bins—a small reserve store to last up to the far-distant + harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs were at war + with one another. + </p> + <p> + At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to + attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out + and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out + that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone—after + that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed + going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide; but + he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Mahamed would then be + down upon him. Struggling was useless, for I had no beads to pay my way + with, and my cows were now all finished; so I took the matter quietly, and + went out foraging with the rifle. + </p> + <p> + 18th and 19th.—Antelopes were numerous, but so wild I could not get + near them. On bending round homewards, however, three buffaloes, feeding + in the distance, on the top of a roll of high ground beyond where we + stood, were observed by the natives, who had flocked out in the hopes of + getting flesh. To stalk them, I went up wind to near where I expected to + find them; then bidding the natives lie down, I stole along through the + grass until at last I saw three pairs of horns glistening quite close in + front of me. Anxious lest they should take sudden fright, I gently raised + myself, wishing to fire, but I was quite puzzled; there was no mistake + about what they were; still, look from as high as I would, I could not see + their bodies. The thought never struck me they were lying down in such + open ground in the day-time; so, as I could not go closer without driving + them off, I took a shot with my single rifle at where I judged the chest + of the nearest one ought to be, and then discovered my error. In an + instant all three sprang on their legs and scampered off. I began loading, + but before I had half accomplished my object, those three had mingled with + the three previously seen grazing, and all six together came charging + straight at me. I really thought I should now catch a toss, if I were not + trampled to death; but suddenly, as they saw me standing, whether from + fear or what else I cannot say, they changed their ferocious-looking + design, swerved round, and galloped off as fast as their legs could carry + them. This was bad luck; but Grant made up for it the next day by killing + a very fine buck nsamma. + </p> + <p> + 20th.—I went again after the herd of six buffaloes, as I thought one + was wounded, and after walking up a long sloping hill for three miles + towards the east, I found myself at once in view of the Nile on one hand, + and the long-heard-of Asua river on the other, backed by hills even higher + than the Jbl Kuku. The bed of the Asua seemed very large, but, being far + off, was not very distinct, nor did I care to go and see it them; for at + that moment, straight in front of me, five buffaloes, five giraffes, two + eland and sundry other antelopes, were too strong a temptation. + </p> + <p> + The place looked like a park, and I began stalking in it, first at the + eland, as I wanted to see if they corresponded with those I shot in + Usagara; but the gawky giraffes, always in the way, gave the alarm, and + drove all but two of the buffaloes away. At these two I now went with my + only rifle, leaving the servants and savages behind. They were out in the + open grass feeding composedly, so that I stole up to within forty yards of + them, and then, in a small naked patch of ground, I waited my opportunity, + and put a ball behind the shoulder of the larger one. At the sound of the + gun, in an instant both bulls charged, but they pulled up in the same + naked ground as myself, sniffing and tossing their horns, while looking + out for their antagonist, who, as quick as themselves, had thrown himself + flat on the ground. + </p> + <p> + There we were, like three fools, for twenty minutes or so; one of the + buffaloes bleeding at the mouth and with a broken hind-leg, for the bullet + had traversed his body, and the other turning round and round looking out + for me, while I was anxiously watching him, and by degrees loading my gun. + When ready, I tried a shot at the sound one, but the cap snapped and + nearly betrayed me, for they both stared at the spot where I lay—the + sound one sniffing the air and tossing his horns, but the other bleeding + considerably. Some minutes more passed in this manner, when they allowed + me to breathe freer by walking away. I followed, of course, but could not + get a good chance; so, as the night set in, I let them alone for the time + being, to get out the following morning. + </p> + <p> + 21st and 22d.—At the place where I left off, I now sprang a large + herd of fifty or more buffaloes, and followed them for a mile, when the + wounded one, quite exhausted from the fatigue, pulled up for a charge, and + allowed me to knock him over. This was glorious fun for the villagers, who + cut him up on the spot and brought him home. Of course, one half the flesh + was given to them, in return for which they brought us some small + delicacies to show their gratitude; for, as they truly remarked, until we + came to their village they never knew what it was to get a present, or any + other gift by a good thrashing. + </p> + <p> + 23d.—To-day I tried the ground again, and, whilst walking up the + hill, two black rhinoceros came trotting towards us in a very excited + manner. I did not wish to fire at them, as what few bullets remained in my + store I wished to reserve in better sport, and therefore for the time + being, let them alone. Presently, however, they separated; one passed in + front of us, stopped to drink in a pool, and then lay down in it. Not + heeding him, I walked up the hill, whilst the other rhinoceros, still + trotting, suddenly turned round and came to drink within fifty yards of + us, obstructing my path; this was too much of a joke; so, to save time, I + gave him a bullet, and knocked him over. To my surprise, the natives who + were with me would not touch his flesh, though pressed by me to "n'yam + n'yam," or to eat. I found that they considered him an unclean beast; so, + regretting I had wasted my bullet, I went farther on and startled some + buffaloes. + </p> + <p> + Though I got very near them, however, a small antelope springing up in + front of me scared them away, and I could not get a front shot at any of + them. Thus the whole day was thrown away, for I had to return + empty-handed. + </p> + <p> + 24th to 30th.—Grant and I after this kept our pot boiling by + shooting three more antelopes; but nothing of consequence transpired until + the 30th, when Bukhet, Mahamed's factotum, arrived with the greater part + of the Turk's property. He then confirmed a report we had heard before, + that, some days previously, Mahamed had ordered Bukhet to go ahead and + join us, which he attempted to do; but, on arrival at Panyoro, his party + had a row with the villagers, and lost their property. Bukhet then + returned to Mahamed and reported his defeat and losses; upon hearing + which, Mahamed at once said to him, "What do you mean by returning to me + empty-handed? Go back at once and recover your things else how can I make + my report at Gondokoro?" With these peremptory orders Bukhet went back to + Panyoro, and commenced to attack it. The contest did not last long; for, + after three of Bukhet's men had been wounded, he set fire to the villages, + killed fifteen of the natives, and, besides recovering his own lost + property, took one hundred cows. + </p> + <p> + 31st.—To-day Mahamed came in, and commenced to arrange for the march + onwards. This, however, was no easy matter, for the Turks alone required + six hundred porters—half that number to carry their ivory, and the + other half to carry their beds and bedding; whilst from fifty to sixty men + was the most a village had to spare, and all the village chiefs were at + enmity with one another. The plan adopted by Mahamed was, to summon the + heads of all the villages to come to him, failing which, he would seize + all their belongings. Then, having once got them together, he ordered them + all to furnish him with so many porters a-head, saying he demanded it of + them, for the "great government's property" could not be left on the + ground. Their separate interests must now be sacrificed, and their feuds + suspended: and if he heard, on his return again, that one village had + taken advantage of the other's weakness caused by their employment in his + service, he would then not spare his bullets,—so they might look out + for themselves. + </p> + <p> + Some of the Turks, having found ninty-nine eggs in a crocodile's nest, had + a grand feast. They gave us two of the eggs, which we ate, but did not + like, for they had a highly musky flavour. + </p> + <p> + 1st.—On the 1st of February we went ahead again, with Bukhet and the + first half of Mahamed's establishment, as a sufficient number of men could + not be collected at once to move all together. In a little while we struck + on the Nile, where it was running like a fine Highland stream between the + gneiss and mica-schist hills of Kuku, and followed it down to near where + the Asua river joined it. For a while we sat here watching the water, + which was greatly discoloured, and floating down rushes. The river was not + as full as it was when we crossed it at the Karuma Falls, yet, according + to Dr Khoblecher's <a href="#linknote-26" name="linknoteref-26" + id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> account, it ought to have been + flooding just at this time: if so, we had beaten the stream. Here we left + it again as it arched round by the west, and forded the Asua river, a + stiff rocky stream, deep enough to reach the breast when waded, but not + very broad. It did not appear to me as if connected with Victoria N'yanza, + as the waters were falling, and not much discoloured; whereas judging from + the Nile's condition, it ought to have been rising. No vessel ever could + have gone up it, and it bore no comparison with the Nile itself. The + exaggerated account of its volume, however, given by the expeditionists + who were sent up the Nile by Mehemet Ali, did not surprise us, since they + had mistaken its position; for we were now 3° 42' north, and therefore had + passed their "farthest point" by twenty miles. + </p> + <p> + In two hours more we reached a settlement called Madi, and found it + deserted. Every man and woman had run off into the jungles from fright, + and would not come back again. We wished ourselves at the end of the + journey; thought anything better than this kind of existence—living + entirely at the expense of others; even the fleecings in Usui felt less + dispiriting; but it could not be helped, for it must always exist as long + as these Turks are allowed to ride rough-shod over the people. The Turks, + however, had their losses also; for on the way four Bari men and one Bari + slave-girl slipped off with a hundred of their plundered cattle, and + neither they nor the cattle could be found again. Mijalwa was here + convicted of having stolen the cloth of a Turk whilst living in his hut + when he was away at the Paira plundering and got fifty lashes to teach him + better behaviour for the future. + </p> + <p> + A party of fifty men came from Labure, a station on ahead of this, to take + service as porters, knowing that at this season the Turks always come with + a large herd of plundered cattle, which they call government property, and + give in payment to the men who carry their tusks of ivory across the Bari + country. + </p> + <p> + We now marched over a rolling ground, covered in some places with + bush-jungle, in others with villages, where there were fine trees, + resembling oaks in their outward appearance; and stopping one night at the + settlement of Barwudi, arrived at Labure, where we had to halt a day for + Mahamed to collect some ivory from a depot he had formed near by. We heard + there was another ivory party collecting tusks at Obbo, a settlement in + the country of Panuquara, twenty miles east of this. + </p> + <p> + Next we crossed a nullah draining into the Nile, and, travelling over more + rolling ground, flanked on the right by a range of small hills, put up at + the Madi frontier station, Mugi, where we had to halt two days to collect + a full complement of porters to traverse the Bari country, the people of + which are denounced as barbarians by the Turks, because they will not + submit to be bullied into carrying their tusks for them. Here we felt an + earthquake. The people would not take beads, preferring, they said, to + make necklaces and belts out of ostrich-eggs, which they cut into the size + of small shirt-buttons, and then drill a hole through their centre to + string them together. A passenger told us that three white men had just + arrived in vessels at Gondokoro; and the Bari people, hearing of our + advance, instead of trying to kill us with spears, had determined to + poison all the water in their country. Mahamed now disposed of half of his + herd of cows, giving them to the chiefs of the villages in return for + porters. These, he said, were all that belonged to the government; for the + half of all captures of cows, as well as all slaves, all goats, and sheep, + were allowed to the men as part of their pay. + </p> + <p> + When all was settled we marched, one thousand strong, to Wurungi; and next + day, by a double march, arrived at Marson, in the Bari country. I wished + still to put up in the native villages, but Mahamed so terrified all my + men, by saying these Bari would kill us in the night if we did not all + sleep together in one large camp, that we were obliged to submit. The + country, still flanked on the right by hills, was undulating and very + prettily wooded. Villages were numerous, but as we passed them the + inhabitants all fled from us, save a few men, who, bolder than the rest, + would stand and look on at us as we marched along. Both night and morning + the Turks beat their drums; and whenever they stopped to eat they sacked + the villages. + </p> + <p> + Pushing on by degrees, stopping at noon to eat, we came again in sight of + the Nile, and put up at a station called Doro, within a short distance of + the well-known hill Rijeb, where Nile voyagers delight in cutting their + names. The country continued the same, but the grass was conspicuously + becoming shorter and finer every day—so much so, that my men all + declared it was a sign of our near approach to England. After we had + settled down for the night, and the Turks had finished plundering the + nearest villages, we heard two guns fired, and immediately afterwards the + whole place was alive with Bari people. Their drums were beaten as a sign + that they would attack us, and the war-drums of the villages around + responded by beating also. The Turks grew somewhat alarmed at this, and as + darkness began to set in, sent out patrols in addition to their nightly + watches. The savages next tried to steal in on us, but were soon + frightened off by the patrols cocking their guns. Then, seeing themselves + defeated in that tactic, they collected in hundreds in front of us, set + fire to the grass, and marched up and down, brandishing ignited grass in + their hands, howling like demons, and swearing they would annihilate us in + the morning. + </p> + <p> + We slept the night out, nevertheless, and next morning walked in to + Gondokoro, N. Lat. 4° 54' 5", and E. long. 31° 46' 9", where Mahamed, + after firing a salute, took us in to see a Circassian merchant, named + Kurshid Agha. Our first inquiry was, of course, for Petherick. A + mysterious silence ensued; we were informed that Mr Debono was THE man we + had to thank for the assistance we had received in coming from Madi; and + then in hot haste, after warm exchanges of greeting with Mahamed's friend, + who was Debono's agent here, we took leave, to hunt up Petherick. Walking + down the bank of the river—where a line of vessels was moored, and + on the right hand a few sheds, one-half broken down, with a brick-built + house representing the late Austrian Church Mission establishment—we + saw hurrying on towards us the form of an Englishman, who, for one moment, + we believed was the Simon Pure; but the next moment my old friend Baker, + famed for his sports in Ceylon, seized me by the hand. A little boy of his + establishment had reported our arrival, and he in an instant came out to + welcome us. What joy this was I can hardly tell. We could not talk fast + enough, so overwhelmed were we both to meet again. Of course we were his + guests in a moment, and learned everything that could be told. I now first + heard of the death of H.R.H. the Prince-Consort, which made me reflect on + the inspiring words he made use of, in compliment to myself, when I was + introduced to him by Sir Roderick Murchison, a short while before leaving + England. Then there was the terrible war in America, and other events of + less startling nature, which came on us all by surprise, as years had now + passed since we had received news from the civilised world. + </p> + <p> + Baker then said he had come up with three vessels—one dyabir and two + nuggers—fully equipped with armed men, camels, horses, donkeys, + beads, brass wire, and everything necessary for a long journey, expressly + to look after us, hoping, as he jokingly said, to find us on the equator + in some terrible fix, that he might have the pleasure of helping us out of + it. He had heard of Mahamed's party, and was actually waiting for him to + come in, that he might have had the use of his return-men to start with + comfortably. Three Dutch ladies <a href="#linknote-27" + name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a>, also, + with a view to assist us in the same way as Baker (God bless them), had + come here in a steamer, but were driven back to Khartum by sickness. + Nobody had even dreamt for a moment it was possible we could come through. + An Italian, named Miani, had gone farther up the Nile than any one else; + and he, it now transpired, was the man who had cut his name on the tree by + Apuddo. But what had become of Petherick? He was actually trading at + N'yambara, seventy miles due west of this, though he had, since I left him + in England, raised a subscription of £1000, from those of my friends to + whom this Journal is most respectfully dedicated as the smallest return a + grateful heart can give for their attempt to succour me, when knowing the + fate of the expedition was in great jeopardy. + </p> + <p> + Instead of coming up the Nile at once, as Petherick might have done—so + I was assured—he waited, whilst a vessel was building, until the + season had too far advanced to enable him to sail up the river. In short, + he lost the north winds at 7° north, and went overland to his trading + depot at N'yambara. Previously, however, he had sent some boats up to + this, under a Vakil, who had his orders to cross to his trading depot at + N'yambara, and to work from his trading station due south, ostensibly with + a view to look after me, though contrary to my advice before leaving him + in England, in opposition to his own proposed views of assisting me when + he applied for help to succour me, and against the strongly-expressed + opinions of every European in the same trade as himself; for all alike + said they knew he would have gone to Faloro, and pushed south from that + place, had his trade on the west of the Nile not attracted him there. + </p> + <p> + Baker now offered me his boats to go down to Khartum, and asked me if + there was anything left undone which it might be of importance for him to + go on and complete, by survey or otherwise; for, although he should like + to go down the river with us, he did not wish to return home without + having done something to recompense him for the trouble and expense he had + incurred in getting up his large expedition. Of course I told him how + disappointed I had been in not getting a sight of the Little Luta Nzige. I + described how we had seen the Nile bending west where we crossed in Chopi, + and then, after walking down the chord of an arc described by the river, + had found it again in Madi coming from the west, whence to the south, and + as far at least as Koshi, it was said to be navigable, probably continuing + to be so right into the Little Luta Nzige. Should this be the case, then, + by building boats in Madi above the cataracts, a vast region might be + thrown open to the improving influences of navigation. Further, I told + Baker of my contract with Kamrasi, and of the property I had left behind, + with a view to stimulate any enterprising man who might be found at this + place to go there, make good my promise, and, if found needful, claim my + share of the things, for the better prosecution of his own travels there. + This Baker at once undertook, though he said he did not want my property; + and I drew out suggestions for him how to proceed. He then made friends + with Mahamed, who promised to help him on to Faloro, and I gave Mahamed + and his men three carbines as an honorarium. + </p> + <p> + I should now have gone down the Nile at once if the moon had been in + "distance" for fixing the longitude; but as it was not, I had to remain + until the 26th, living with Baker. Kurshid Agha became very great friends + with us, and, at once making a present of a turkey, a case of wine, and + cigars, said he was only sorry for his own sake that we had found a + fellow-countryman, else he would have had the envied honour of claiming us + as his guests, and had the pleasure of transporting us in his vessels down + to Khartum. + </p> + <p> + The Rev. Mr Moorlan, and two other priests of the Austrian Mission, were + here on a visit from their station at Kich, to see the old place again + before they left for Khartum; for the Austrian Government, discouraged by + the failure of so many years, had ordered the recall of the whole of the + establishment for these regions. It was no wonder these men were recalled; + for, out of twenty missionaries who, during the last thirteen years, had + ascended the White river for the purpose of propagating the Gospel, + thirteen had died of fever, two of dysentary, and two had retired broken + in health, yet not one convert had been made by them. + </p> + <p> + The fact is, there was no government to control the population or to + protect property; boys came to them, looked at their pictures, and even + showed a disposition to be instructed, but there it ended; they had no + heart to study when no visible returns were to be gained. One day the + people would examine the books, at another throw them aside, say their + stomachs were empty, and run away to look for food. The Bari people at + Gondokoro were described as being more tractable than those of Kich, being + of a braver and more noble nature; but they were all half-starved—not + because the country was too poor to produce, but because they were too + lazy to cultivate. What little corn they grew they consumed before it was + fully ripe, and then either sought for fish in the river or fed on + tortoises in the interior, as they feared they might never reap what they + sowed. + </p> + <p> + The missionaries never had occasion to complain of these blacks, and to + this day they would doubtless have been kindly inclined to Europeans, had + the White Nile traders not brought the devil amongst them. Mr Moorlan + remembers the time when they brought food for sale; but now, instead, they + turn their backs upon all foreigners, and even abuse the missionaries for + having been the precursors of such dire calamities. The shell of the brick + church at Gondokoro, and the cross on the top of a native-built hut in + Kich, are all that will remain to bear testimony of these Christian + exertions to improve the condition of these heathens. Want of employment, + I heard was the chief operative cause in killing the poor missionaries; + for, with no other resource left them to kill time, they spent their days + eating, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, till they broke down their + constitutions by living too fast. + </p> + <p> + Mr Moorlan became very friendly, and said he was sorry he could not do + more for us. His headquarters were at Kich, some way down the river, + where, as we passed, he hoped at least he might be able to show us as much + attention and hospitality as lay in his power. Mosquitoes were said to be + extremely troublesome on the river, and my men begged for some clothes, as + Petherick, they said, had a store for me under the charge of his Vakil. + The storekeeper was then called, and confirming the story of my men, I + begged him to give me what was my own. It then turned out that it was all + Petherick's, but he had orders to give me on account anything that I + wanted. This being settled, I took ninety-five yards of the commonest + stuff as a makeshift for mosquito-curtains for my men, besides four + sailor's shirts for my head men. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th, Kurshid Agha was summoned by the constant fire of musketry, a + mile or two down the river, and went off in his vessels to the relief. A + party of his had come across from the N'yambara country with ivory, and on + the banks of the Nile, a few miles north of this, were engaged fighting + with the natives. He arrived just in time to settle the difficulty, and + next day came back again, having shot some of the enemy and captured their + cows. Petherick, we heard, was in a difficulty of the same kind, upon + which I proposed to go down with Baker and Grant to succour him; but he + arrived in time, in company with his wife and Dr James Murie, to save us + the trouble, and told me he had brought a number of men with him, carrying + ivory, for the purpose now of looking after me on the east bank of the + Nile, by following its course up to the south, though he had given up all + hope of seeing me, as a report had reached him of the desertion of my + porters at Ugogo. He then offered me his dyabir, as well as anything else + that I wanted that lay within his power to give. Suffice it to say, I had, + through Baker's generosity, at that very moment enough and to spare; but + at his urgent request I took a few more yards of cloth for my men, and + some cooking fat; and, though I offered to pay for it, he declined to + accept any return at my hands. + </p> + <p> + Though I naturally felt much annoyed at Petherick—for I had hurried + away from Uganda, and separated from Grant at Kari, solely to keep faith + with him—I did not wish to break friendship, but dined and conversed + with him, when it transpired that his Vakil, or agent, who went south from + the N'yambara station, came amongst the N'yam N'yam, and heard from them + that a large river, four days' journey more to the southward, was flowing + from east to west, beyond which lived a tribe of "women," who, when they + wanted to marry, mingled with them in the stream and returned; and then, + again, beyond this tribe of women there lived another tribe of women and + dogs. Now, this may all seem a very strange story to those who do not know + the negro's and Arab's modes of expression; but to me it at once came very + natural, and, according to my view, could be interpreted thus:—The + river, running from east to west, according to the native mode of + expressing direction, could be nothing but the Little Luta Nzige running + the opposite way, according to fact and our mode of expression. The first + tribe of women were doubtless the Wanyoro—called women by the naked + tribes on this side because they wear bark coverings—an effeminate + appendage, in the naked man's estimation; and the second tribe must have + been in allusion to the dog-keeping Waganda, who also would be considered + women, as they wear bark clothes. In my turn, I told Petherick he had + missed a good thing by not going up the river to look for me; for, had he + done so, he would not only have had the best ivory-grounds to work upon, + but, by building a vessel in Madi above the cataracts, he would have had, + in my belief, some hundred miles of navigable water to transport his + merchandise. In short, his succouring petition was most admirably framed, + had he stuck to it, for the welfare of both of us. <a href="#linknote-28" + name="linknoteref-28" id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a> + </p> + <p> + We now received our first letters from home, and in one from Sir Roderick + Murchison I found the Royal Geographical Society had awarded me their + "founder's medal" for the discovery of the Victoria N'yanza in 1858. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_CONC" id="link2H_CONC"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Conclusion + </h2> + <p> + My journey down to Alexandria was not without adventure, and carried me + through scenes which, in other circumstances, it might have been worth + while to describe. Thinking, however, that I have already sufficiently + trespassed on the patience of the reader, I am unwilling to overload my + volume with any matter that does not directly relate to the solution of + the great problem which I went to solve. Having now, then, after a period + of twenty-eight months, come upon the tracks of European travellers, and + met them face to face, I close my Journal, to conclude with a few + explanations, for the purpose of comparing the various branches of the + Nile with its affluences, so as to show their respective values. + </p> + <p> + The first affluent, the Bahr el Ghazal, took us by surprise; for instead + of finding a huge lake, as described in our maps, at an elbow of the Nile, + we found only a small piece of water resembling a duck-pond buried in a + sea of rushes. The old Nile swept through it with majestic grace, and + carried us next to the Geraffe branch of the Sobat river, the second + affluent, which we found flowing into the Nile with a graceful + semicircular sweep and good stiff current, apparently deep, but not more + than fifty yards broad. + </p> + <p> + Next in order came the main stream of the Sobat, flowing into the Nile in + the same graceful way as the Geraffe, which in breadth it surpassed, but + in velocity of current was inferior. The Nile by these additions was + greatly increased; still it did not assume that noble appearance which + astonished us so much, immediately after the rainy season, when we were + navigating it in canoes in Unyoro. + </p> + <p> + I here took my last lunar observations, and made its mouth N. lat. 9° 20' + 48", E. long. 31° 24' 0". The Sobat has a third mouth farther down the + Nile, which unfortunately was passed without my knowing it; but as it is + so well known to be unimportant, the loss was not great. + </p> + <p> + Next to be treated of is the famous Blue Nile, which we found a miserable + river, even when compared with the Geraffe branch of the Sobat. It is very + broad at the mouth, it is true, but so shallow that our vessel with + difficulty was able to come up it. It has all the appearance of a mountain + stream, subject to great periodical fluctuations. I was never more + disappointed that with this river; if the White river was cut off from it, + its waters would all be absorbed before they could reach Lower Egypt. + </p> + <p> + The Atbara river, which is the last affluent, was more like the Blue river + than any of the other affluences, being decidedly a mountain stream, which + floods in the rains, but runs nearly dry in the dry season. + </p> + <p> + I had now seen quite enough to satisfy myself that the White river which + issues from the N'yanza at the Ripon Falls, is the true or parent Nile; + for in every instance of its branching, it carried the palm with it in the + distinctest manner, viewed, as all the streams were by me, in the dry + season, which is the best time for estimating their relative perennial + values. + </p> + <p> + Since returning to England, Dr Murie, who was with me at Gondokoro, has + also come home; and he, judging from my account of the way in which we got + ahead of the flooding of the Nile between the Karuma Falls and Gondokoro, + is of opinion that the Little Luta Nzige must be a great backwater to the + Nile, which the waters of the Nile must have been occupied in filling + during my residence in Madi; and then about the same time that I set out + from Madi, the Little Luta Nzige having been surcharged with water, the + surplus began its march northwards just about the time when we started in + the same direction. For myself, I believe in this opinion, as he no sooner + asked me how I could account for the phenomenon I have already mentioned + of the river appearing to decrease in bulk as we descended it, than I + instinctively advanced his own theory. Moreover, the same hypothesis will + answer for the sluggish flooding of the Nile down to Egypt. + </p> + <p> + I hope the reader who has followed my narrative thus far will be + interested in knowing how "my faithful children," for whose services I had + no further occasion, and whom I had taken so far from their own country, + were disposed of. At Cairo, where we put up in Shepherd's Hotel, I had the + whole of them photographed, and indulged them at the public concerts, + tableaux vivants, etc. By invitation, we called on the Viceroy at his + Rhoda Island palace, and were much gratified with the reception; for, + after hearing all our stories with marked intelligence, he most graciously + offered to assist me in any other undertaking which would assist to open + up and develop the interior of Africa. + </p> + <p> + I next appointed Bombay captain of the "faithfuls," and gave him three + photographs of all the eighteen men and three more of the four women, to + give one of each to our Consuls at Suez, Aden, and Zanzibar, by which they + might be recognised. I also gave them increased wages, equal to three + years' pay each, by orders on Zanzibar, which was one in addition to their + time of service; an order for a grand "freeman's garden," to be purchased + for them at Zanzibar; and an order that each one should receive ten + dollars dowry-money as soon as he could find a wife. + </p> + <p> + With these letters in their hands, I made arrangements with our Consul, Mr + Drummond Hay, to frank them through Suez, Aden, and the Seychelles to + Zanzibar. + </p> + <p> + Since then, I have heard that Captain Bombay and his party missed the + Seychelles, and went on to the Mauritius, where Captain Anson, + Inspector-General of Police, kindly took charge of them and made great + lions of them. A subscription was raised to give them a purse of money; + they were treated with tickets to the "circus," and sent back to the + Seychelles, whence they were transported by steamer to Zanzibar, and taken + in charge by our lately-appointed Consul, Colonel Playfair, who appears to + have taken much interest in them. Further, they volunteered to go with me + again, should I attempt to cross Africa from east to west, through the + fertile zone. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + Footnotes: + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ The equator was crossed on + the 8th February 1862.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ The Wahuma are treated of + in Chapter IX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ The list of my fauna + collection will be found in an early Number of the "Proceedings of the + Zoological Society of London."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Captain Burton, on + receiving his gold medal at the hands of Sir Roderick I. Murchison, said, + "You have alluded, sir, to the success of the last expedition. Justice + compels me to state the circumstances under which it attained that + success. To Captain Speke are due those geographical results to which you + have alluded in such flattering terms. Whilst I undertook the history and + ethnography, the languages, and the peculiarity of the people, to Captain + Speke fell the arduous task of delineating an exact topography, and of + laying down our positions by astronomical observations—a labour to + which, at times, even the undaunted Livingstone found himself unequal."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. iii. of A. D. 1801.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ It was such an attack as I + had on my former journey; but while mine ceased to trouble me after the + first year, his kept recurring every fortnight until the journey ended.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ It may be as well to remark + here, that the figures both in latitude and longitude, representing the + position of Kaze, computed by Mr Dunkin, accord with what appeared in + Blackwood's Magazine, computed by myself, and in the R. G. S. Journal Map, + computed by Captain George. This applies also to the position of Ujiji; at + any rate, the practical differences are so trifling that it would require + a microscope to detect them on the map.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ The Jub is the largest + river known to the Zanzibar Arabs. It debouches on the east coast north of + Zanzibar, close under the equator.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ The two first gold watches + were given away at Zanzibar.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ If one asked the name of + a tree, and it happened to be the kind from which this cloth was made, the + answer would be "mbugu." If, again, the question was as to the bark, the + same answer; and the same if one saw the shirt, and asked what it was. + Hence I could not determine whether the word had been originally the name + of the tree, of its bark, or of the article made from the bark, though I + am inclined to think it is the bark, as there are many varieties of these + trees, which, being besides being called mbugu, had their own particular + names.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ Rumanika's present.—One + block-tin box, one Raglan coat, five yards scarlet broadcloth, two coils + copper wire, a hundred large blue egg-beads, five bundles best variegated + beads, three bundles minute beads—pink, blue, and white.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ Nnanaji's present.—One + deole or gold-embroidered silk, two coils copper wire, fifty large blue + egg-beads, five bundles best variegated beads, three bundles minute beads—pink, + blue and white.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ Since named by Dr P. L. + Sclater "Tragelaphus Spekii." These nzoe have been drawn by Mr Wolf, from + specimens brought home by myself.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ Round arm, 1 ft. 11 in.; + chest, 4 ft. 4 in.; thigh, 2 ft. 7 in.; calf, 1 ft. 8 in.; height, 5 ft. 8 + in.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ I.e. Dead Locust Lake,—Luta, + dead—Nzige, locust.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ In 'Blackwood's Magazine' + for August 1859.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ See p. 211.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ 1 block-tin box, 4 rich + silk cloths, 1 rifle (Whitworth's), 1 gold chronometer, 1 revolver pistol, + 3 rifled carbines, 3 sword-bayonets, 1 box ammunition, 1 box bullets, 1 + box gun-caps, 1 telescope, 1 iron chair, 10 bundles best beads, 1 set of + table-knives, spoons, and forks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ The straight road down + the Nile through Unyoro no one dares allude to at this time, as the two + kings were always fighting.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ Some say a group of forty + islands compose Sese.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ Named by Dr P. L. + Sclater, Cosmetornis Spekii. The seventh pen feathers are double the + length of the ordinaries, the eighth double that of the seventh, and the + ninth 20 inches long. Bombay says the same bird is found in Uhiyow.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ It is questionable + whether or not this word is a corruption of Bahr (sea of) Ingo.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ This obviously was an + allusion to the way in which the first king of Uganda was countenanced by + the great king of Kittara, according to the tradition given in Chapter + IX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ 1 double rifle, 1 + block-tin box, 1 red blanket, 1 brown do., 10 copper wire, 4 socks full of + different-coloured minute beads, 2 socks full of blue and white pigeon + eggs, 1 Rodgers's pen-knife, 2 books, 1 elastic circle, 1 red + handkerchief, 1 bag gun-caps, 1 pair scissors, 1 pomatum-pot, 1 quart + bottle, 1 powder flask, 7 lb. powder, 1 dressing-case, 1 blacking-box, 1 + brass lock and key, 4 brass handles, 8 brass sockets, 7 chintz, 7 binders, + 1 red bag, 1 pair glass spectacles, 1 lucifer-box.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ It will appear shortly + that is was actually not more than two marches to the northward of + Faloro.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ Dr Khoblecher, the + founder of the Austrian Church Mission Establishment of Gondokoro, + ascertained that the Nile reached its lowest level there in the middle of + January.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ The Baroness Miss A. van + Capellan, and Mrs and Miss Tinne.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ See Petherick's + succouring petition, addressed to the Right Hon. Lord Ashburton, President + of the Royal Geographical Society, in the Proceedings of that Society, + date 10th June 1860.] + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Discovery of the Source of the Nile, by +John Hanning Speke + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOURCE OF THE NILE *** + +***** This file should be named 3284-h.htm or 3284-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/2/8/3284/ + +Produced by Laura Shaffer, J.C. Byers, and David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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