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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/36059-0.txt b/36059-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f8f79ed --- /dev/null +++ b/36059-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6100 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lachesis Lapponica + A Tour in Lapland + +Author: Carl von Linné + +Editor: James Edward Smith + +Translator: Charles Troilius + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + + + + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + +In this Plain Text version symbols from UTF-8 (Unicode) character sets +are used. If the following symbols do not appear correctly, a unicode +font should be used, or a different version of the e-book selected: + + β, γ, κ, λ (Greek symbols) + Å’, Å“ (oe-ligatures) + ă (lower case a with breve) + +Italic typeface is represented by surrounding _underscores_. Small +caps typeface is represented by UPPER CASE. + +Archaic or inconsistent spellings, hyphenation and punctuation are +retained as printed except where typographical errors have been +corrected: any corrections are listed at the end of the book. + +Note that the style of capitalised species names are retained as +they appear in the original. + + * * * * * + + _Lachesis Lapponica_, + + OR A + + TOUR IN LAPLAND, + + NOW FIRST PUBLISHED + FROM THE + ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL + OF THE CELEBRATED + + LINNÆUS; + + BY + + JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M.D. F.R.S. ETC. + PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + VOL. II. + + + "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus." + OVID. + + + _LONDON_: + PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD, + FLEET-STREET, + BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE. + + 1811. + + + + +JOURNEY TO LAPLAND. + + +In the latter part of this day, _July 15th_, I set out on my return from +the low grounds of Norway. The heat was very powerful as we began to +ascend the mountains. When we reached what had seemed to us from below +the summit of a hill, we saw just as lofty an eminence before us, and +this was the case nine or ten successive times. I had no idea of such +mountains before. The elevation of this hill cannot be taken by any +geometrical instrument, as the summit is not visible, even at some miles +distance. I believe its height must exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb +it was worse than going two miles any other way. Had we not frequently +met with such abundance of water, we should have been overcome with +fatigue. In this ascent I found the little _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_) with +a white flower, and the Little Gentian (_Gentiana nivalis_). + +Our clothes, which were wet quite through with perspiration, in +consequence of the heat we had encountered in the beginning of our +journey, were now frozen stiff upon our backs by the cold. We determined +to seek for a Laplander's hut. In order to get at one, we were obliged +to descend so steep a hill, that, being unable to walk down it, I lay +down on my back and slid along, with the rapidity of an arrow from a +bow. I avoided with difficulty the large snow torrents that every now +and then came in my way, and which were sometimes within an ell of me. + +On reaching this hut, I noticed some of the reindeer whose horns were +not above half an inch long, the Brom-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_) having +bitten them while quite tender; for these insects are, in the Norwegian +alps, worse than the gnats of Swedish Lapland. + +I here obtained a curious piece of information respecting the mode of +castrating the reindeer. When the animal is two years and a half old, +its owner, about a fortnight before Michaelmas, getting a person to +assist him by holding it fast by the horns, places himself betwixt its +hind legs. He then applies his teeth to the _scrotum_, so as to bruise +its contents, but not so as to break the skin, for in that case the +reindeer would die. He afterwards bruises the part still more +effectually between his fingers. The same operation is performed on both +sides, if the reindeer remains quiet long enough for the purpose at one +time. The animal is in consequence rather indisposed for a while, so +that he can hardly keep up with the rest of the herd, but he usually +recovers perfectly in a week's time. This is certainly an art, no less +curious than remarkable, and merits further consideration. + +The girls here, especially when they wish to appear to advantage, divide +their hair into two braids, one above each ear, which braids are tied +together, at the hind part of the head, so as to hang down the back. A +tuft of ribands is appended to the extremity of each braid. + + +_July 16._ + +We undertook to cross the ice-mountain. Having proceeded some way on our +journey, we observed a dense cloud to the north-east. It was visible +both above and below us, and at length approached us in the form of a +thick mist, which moistened our clothes, and rendered even our hair +thoroughly wet. It so completely obliterated our horizon, that we could +neither see sun nor moon, nor the summits of the neighbouring hills. We +knew not whither to turn our steps, fearing on the one hand to fall down +a precipice and lose our lives, as actually happened, a few years ago, +to a Laplander under the same circumstances; or on the other to be +plunged into the alpine torrent, which had worn so deep a channel +through the snow, as to make any one giddy, looking upon it from above. +We could now not distinguish any thing a couple of ells before us. Our +situation was like that of an unskilful mariner at sea without a +compass, out of sight of land, and surrounded by hidden rocks on every +side. The Laplanders themselves consider the situation we were in as one +of the worst accidents that can ever befall them. We, however, though +destitute of a guide, were fortunate enough to discover the track of a +reindeer, and of some kind of carriage in which goods had probably been +lately conveyed towards Norway. This track directed us safely to one of +the Lapland moveable tents. + +All the Laplanders are usually blear-eyed, so that one would think the +word _Lappi_ (Laplanders) was derived from _lippi_ (blear-eyed). The +causes of this inconvenience are various, but chiefly the following. + +1. The sharp winds. In the early part of my journey, repeated exposure +to stormy weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I became unable to open +them wide, and was obliged to keep them half shut. How much more must +this be the case with those who dwell on the alps, where there is a +perpetual wind! + +2. The snow, the whiteness of which, when the sun shone upon it, was +very troublesome to me. To this the alpine Laplanders are continually +exposed. + +3. The fogs. This day I found myself very comfortable in my walk over +the icy mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud, whichever it might be +called, came about me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as well as +my own, so weak and relaxed, that we could not open them wide without an +effort. Such must often be the case with the Laplanders. + +4. Smoke. How is it possible that these people should not be blear-eyed, +when they are so continually shut up in their huts, where the smoke has +no outlet but by the hole in the roof, and consequently fills every +body's eyes as it passes! + +5. The severity of the cold in this country must also contribute to the +same inconvenience. + +The mountain Laplanders, or those who live in the alps, build no huts; +they have only tents made in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +The first figure represents two connected beams, which compose the +frame-work of one side of the hut; and these meet at the top with two +similar ones, forming the opposite side. A solitary beam is placed on +each side, in the middle of the arch formed by these four, so that the +whole edifice has six angles. Two more slender sticks, but equally tall, +are then erected between every two angles, or main ribs, of the +building. Over the whole is spread the covering of the tent (made of +walmal cloth). The usual height of the structure is about a fathom and +half, and the breadth two fathoms. A flap of cloth is left, so as to +open and shut by way of a door, between two of the main beams. + +[Illustration] + +When they lie down to rest, and are fearful of being incommoded by heat, +they fix a hook through the middle of the coverlet, which raises it +perhaps an ell and a half above them, and under this canopy they repose. + +[Illustration] + +The women wear several things attached to their belt, as a leather bag, +_fig._ 1, containing a spoon, as well as a pipe, _fig._ 3. + +_Fig._ 2. A knife in a case. + +4. A thimble made of leather, which goes round the finger. + +5. A pin-cushion, with a brass cover which pulls down over it like a +cap. + +6. Several large brass rings. + +The belt itself is ornamented with tin or silver embroidery, and +pearls. + +[Illustration] + +The men wear, instead of the above, a kind of bag, hanging down exactly +in front. This is divided internally into two pockets, containing their +tobacco-pipe, tinder-box, tobacco, and a spoon made of reindeer's horn, +of an oblong flattish shape. + +The women often wear a similar bag, but of a smaller size. + +When the reindeer are milked, as they cast their coat during the whole +course of the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, often +covering the milk in the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs of the +animal, and it is found necessary to clean and soften them before the +milking is begun. This is generally done by dipping the fingers into the +milk which may be in the pail already, and washing them therewith. +Whenever it happens that one of the reindeer strays from its master's +herd to that of a neighbour, the person to whom it comes milks it, +without any offence to the proper owner. Such an accident often happens; +for these animals love society, and the more of them there are together, +the better they thrive and enjoy themselves. They are marked at the +ears, like cows, that every person may know his own. + +The furniture of these Laplanders consists of kettles and pots, made +sometimes of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of stone, on account of +the weight. They have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, generally +made of the hard knotty excrescences of the birch. These are often large +enough to hold four or five cans, (of three quarts each,) and formed so +neatly, that any one would believe them to be turned. Into these they +pour what is to be served up at their meals. Plates they have none, but +in their stead boards, of an oblong shape, are used for meat; which, +previous to its distribution among the guests, is served up in round +pails. Closely platted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are used to +keep cheese in. There is moreover an oblong barrel, for the purpose of +holding _jumomjolk_ (_vol._ 1. _p._ 273). + +Within the tent are spread on each side skins of reindeer, with the +hairy part uppermost, on which the people either sit or lie down, for +the tent is not lofty enough to allow any one to stand upright. In the +centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a square enclosure of low +stones about the ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind the +fire-place, is entirely occupied either with brush-wood or branches of +trees, behind which, or, most commonly, before it next the fire, the +household furniture is placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended over +the reindeer skins on each side, upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and +before these, towards the entrance, hang rennet-bags, filled with milk, +preserved for winter use. + +The annexed figure is a sort of plan of the floor of one of these +Lapland tents. a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six in number, +three at the right hand, on entering the tent, and as many at the left. +c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e kettle, with its lid. f, behind +the first reindeer skin, is the place of the harness. g a barrel or +cask. h a store of skins and hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer, +with its flat cover. + +[Illustration] + +The following figure represents the roof of the tent, as seen from +below. a, a, are the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. b outlet for +the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags containing milk. d plat of hair from the +reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e the flat cover of the +milk-strainer; see i in the former figure. + +[Illustration] + +Such was the dwelling, and I shall now describe some of its inhabitants. +I sat myself down at the right hand of the entrance, with my legs +across. Opposite to me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, the other +straight. Her dress came no lower than her knees, but she had a belt +embroidered with silver. Her grey hair hung straight down, and she had a +wrinkled face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was altogether of the +Lapland cast. Her fingers were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next to her +sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty years of age, who, for the +sake of her large herds of reindeer, had already been married ten years +to this old hag. When the Laplanders sit, they either cross their legs +under them, or one knee is bent, the other straight. + +As a defence against wind and snow, a sort of hood, called +_nialmiphata_, is worn over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of the +shape of a truncated cone, dilated at the bottom, and is four palms +high, three palms in circumference at the upper part, and six at the +bottom. This covers the cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, the +eyes and mouth only being exposed. In the back part, at bottom, is a +loop, through which goes a riband to secure the whole from being blown +off, by being tied round the body under the arms. + +In winter-time the women wear breeches, made exactly like those worn by +the men, as well as boots, though the latter come no higher than the +knees. It is wonderful how they are able, in the severity of winter, to +follow the reindeer, which are never at rest, but keep feeding by night +as well as by day. They have indeed small sheds or huts, here and there, +into which they occasionally drive their reindeer, but with the greatest +difficulty. + +During the night we passed over the beautiful lake of _Wirisiar_. The +weather was very cold and foggy. + + +_July 17._ + +In the morning we arrived at the abode of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff, +where I could not but admire the fairness of the bodies of these +dark-faced people, which rivalled that of any lady whatever. + +Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in Lapland _Lummick_. The body of +these animals is grey; face and shoulders black; the loins blackish; +tail, as well as ears, very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss +(_Lichen rangiferinus_), and are not eatable. They live, for the most +part, in the alps; but in some years thousands of them come down into +the woodland countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, and marshes, by +which great numbers perish. They are by no means timid, but look out, +from their holes, at passengers, like a dog. They bring forth five or +six at a birth. Their burrows are about half a quarter (of an ell?) +deep. + +Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, with a hyacinthine flower +in five notched segments (_Gentiana nivalis_). + + +_July 18._ + +I gathered and examined the little Catchfly, which resembles the common +one (_Lychnis Viscaria_) except in being smaller, and not at all viscid. +(_L. alpina_; see _v._ 1. _p._ 302. _n._ 46.) The root is perennial. +Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to linear. Stem simple, round, +smooth, bearing two, three, or four pairs of opposite leaves. From the +uppermost pair springs one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a single +flower, between two small opposite purple leaves. A little higher up, +two other simple flower-stalks come forth in the same manner, with two +coloured leaves at their base, the stem being thus extended straight +upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, with five teeth. Petals five, +their disk cloven half way down; the crown with two teeth. Stamens 10. +Pistils 5. + +After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; but the water we met with +proved less pleasant than usual, having an earthy taste, although it +flowed from plentiful stores of ice and snow. My Laplander took his +knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he sucked by way of refreshment. +I found this mode of drinking agreeable enough, the ice being very +palatable, and we both partook of it largely. He told me it was +considered very wholesome for the chest. Indeed I learned, both from the +Laplanders and my own experience, that pure water, however cold, is +never hurtful, provided it be taken in moderation. + +I was desirous of having my linen washed; but the people understood my +request as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a single article of +their own apparel being made of linen. As their food is of animal +origin, so is their clothing, which consists either of skins, the +produce of the country, or of the woollen cloth called _walmal_, which +they purchase. In the winter they wear Lapland boots, which come up as +high as the middle of the thighs, without any stockings, only the feet +are protected with what they term _Skogras_ (_Carex sylvatica_ Fl. +Brit.), as already mentioned. Next to the body they wear a jacket of +_walmal_, and above that a _lappmudd_, or coat of reindeer skin, with +the hairy side turned inwards. In summer they turn that side outwards. +The boots used by the women do not reach higher than the knee. + + +_July 19._ + +I remarked with astonishment how greatly the reindeer are incommoded in +hot weather, insomuch that they cannot stand still a minute, no not a +moment, without changing their posture, starting, puffing and blowing +continually, and all on account of a little fly. Even though amongst a +herd of perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not above ten of these +flies, every one of the herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour +about. The fly meanwhile was trying every means to get at them; but it +no sooner touched any part of their bodies, than they made an immediate +effort to shake it off. In one respect this season is peculiarly +propitious to the insect, as the reindeer's coat is now very thin, most +of the hair of last year's growth being fallen off. I caught one of +these insects as it was flying along with its tail protruded, which had +at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly white. The tail +itself consisted of four or five tubular joints, slipping into each +other, like a pocket spying-glass, which this fly, like others, has a +power of contracting at pleasure. See what I have already mentioned +(_vol._ 1. _p._ 280), concerning the spots in the reindeer skins, as +caused by this insect (_Oestrus Tarandi_). + +When the Lapland children are laid into the cradle, they seldom cry, +although their hands are confined down to their sides. If they cry, it +is generally from hunger. The cradle is placed in a sloping position, so +that the child's head is half upright. The bottom of the cradle is +hollowed out of a piece of fir wood, consequently not very heavy. Over +the head of the child is a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse +bow is fixed, the whole being covered with cloth, like the rest of the +cradle. In summer the child lies without any covering of reindeer hair, +only having under its head and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or +moss. + +The Laplanders use a curious kind of box or basket, which they call +_kisa_, for keeping or carrying various articles. It is of an oval form, +with the bottom and sides made of fir, like a box, being about a foot +and half long, a foot broad, and six inches deep, with a transverse +opening in the bottom to admit a part of the saddle of the reindeer. The +contents are confined by a lacing of cords, that goes from side to side +across the top, which is otherwise open. Two such boxes, each weighing +about two pounds, are placed like panniers upon the reindeer; for that +animal cannot carry above four or five pounds weight, and the castrated +males only are used as beasts of burthen at all. A leather thong crosses +the saddle, connected with another longer one, which goes round the +chest of the animal at one part, and round its thighs, like the +breechings of a horse, at the other. A pack-saddle, made either of +reindeer skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of spruce fir, goes across +the back, and is connected with the leather thongs just mentioned, being +further secured by a girth under the belly. Against the sides of this +pack-saddle the above-described boxes or baskets are hung and fastened, +the transverse chink in the bottom of each being fitted to the saddle. + +I observed that the Laplanders, both men and women, after borrowing a +lighted pipe, and passing it from one to another, retain a mouthful of +smoke as long as possible, that they may enjoy as much of the flavour as +they can. Old men chew tobacco. + +The tendons in the legs of the reindeer serve to make thread or cord. In +each hind leg are two tendons, one before the other; in each fore leg +one behind and two or three before it. These the Laplanders lay hold of +with their mouths, split and moisten them, rubbing them from time to +time with reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for that use, in order +to render them as supple as possible. Each string is made sharp at both +ends, and drawn through holes of various sizes in an instrument made on +purpose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine and smooth as they can. +Two such threads are then twisted together by means of the hand upon +the thigh or knee. They are generally held with the left hand, and +twisted with the right upon the left knee, proceeding downwards, the +thread being moistened from time to time with saliva. + +In this part of the country the _Empetrum_ (Crow- or Crake-berry) serves +for firing. Otherwise the most common fuel is the dwarf Birch (_Betula +nana_), and the Willow with lanceolate white hairy leaves (_Salix +lapponum_), so very abundant on the Lapland alps. The dwarf birch bears +very small leaves in these elevated regions. + +When the children are taken out of the cradle, which I have already +described (_vol._ 2. _p._ 23), they are dressed in a small garment of +reindeer skin. They are usually able to stand on their legs by the time +they are four months old, and turn their head and eyes about with a +degree of intelligence hardly ever seen in our children at that early +age. + +I never met with any people who lead such easy happy lives as the +Laplanders. In summer they make two meals of milk in the course of the +day, and when they have gone through their allotted task of milking +their reindeer, or making cheese, they resign themselves to indolent +tranquillity, not knowing what to do next. In winter their food is +cheese, taken once or twice a day, but in the evening they eat meat. A +single reindeer supplies four persons with food for a week. + +This animal has no gall-bladder, nor could I discover the insertion of +the biliary duct. The liver however is of a large size. The first +stomach is large, with a thick orifice, and lined with a fine cellular +network like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally plaited. The +Laplanders are curious dissectors. They take out each of the stomachs +separately, with as much care as a professed anatomist. + +The thread made of sinews, as above described, is never used for sewing +_walmal_, which makes their summer clothing, but only for garments +composed of fur or leather. Their shoes indeed are mended, as well as +made, with it. This last business falls to the lot of the women. The +leather is purchased. + +A good ox may be bought in Norway for three rix-dollars; a female +reindeer for one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from twelve to +eighteen dollars, silver coin; and a fawn is worth from twelve to +eighteen dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, therefore, are but +equal to the value of a common ox. + +I left this place in the evening, proceeding on my journey on foot, and +walking all night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the +following day. Thus I walked six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at +another Lapland hut. + +[Illustration] + +Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing by the way, except an +_Andromeda_ (_tetragona_) with quadrangular shoots, and flowers from +the bosoms of the leaves. The stem is woody, procumbent, naked, +thread-shaped, variously divided. Branches partly erect, entirely +covered with leaves, which are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded, +concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an imbricated manner. +Flower-stalks solitary, from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, +thread-shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping flower. Calyx +five-cleft, purplish, with ovate straight segments. Petal one, +half-ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the lily of the valley, cut +half way down into five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, very short, +with horned anthers, scarcely longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the +length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, with five obtuse angles, erect, +of five cells, with several seeds[1]. + + +_July 20._ + +The people here use a kind of bread called _Blodbrod_ (Blood Bread), +made of small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a little quantity of +flour. This is baked or roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is +used only in hard times. + +There are no common flies, bugs, nor snakes, on these Alps. + +The Laplanders however abound with lice, which in winter are allowed to +freeze, when they turn red, and are easily killed. In summer they come +forth from the clothes, if exposed to the sun, and are then destroyed +with the nails, these people having no firelock to shoot them with[2]. + +I was informed that in this neighbourhood the inoculated small-pox is +remarkably fatal. If the patients have but seventy or eighty pustules, +they die of it as of the plague. They fly to the mountains, when +infected, and die. The same is the case with the measles. It appears +that both these diseases are aggravated by the violent cold, whence the +patients die in so miserable a manner[3]. + +Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent. + +Sore eyes are universal, especially in the spring, when the Laplanders +remove towards the Alps. The glittering of the snow has then a +pernicious effect on their eyes. Aged people are very often blind. + +Female obstructions are rare, though sometimes met with among the better +sort of people; neither are the _catamenia_ immoderate, nor in common so +copious as with us. The Lapland women are entirely ignorant of the +_leucorrhÅ“a_. + +Of hysterics I met with but two cases. One maid-servant, twenty-four +years of age, had the complaint about once a year; another, about +thirty, was attacked with it monthly during the summer. + +Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs are frequent; hence the forehead is +often seen full of scars (from the application of their _toule_, or +_moxa_; see _vol._ 1. _p._ 274). + +Elderly people are often hard of hearing. + +The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly sound, and they are in the habit +of sleeping or waking whenever they please. + +A swelling, or falling down, of the _uvula_ is not uncommon, in which +case they frequently cut off the part affected. + +When children are troubled with swellings in the glands about the +throat, the usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck out the blood, +which is considered as a speedy and effectual cure. If this method be +not adopted, they suppose the blood would rise to the head, and cause +cutaneous eruptions there. + +Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding the constant +practice of drinking snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing pure +grease or fat, which perhaps may prevent its bad consequences. However +this may be, the Laplanders seldom die from catching cold. Cases of +_phthisis_, or consumption, do indeed now and then occur among them, and +pleurisies are very common, especially in spring and autumn. Lumbago, or +pain in the back, is most prevalent during the summer. For this, as I +have already mentioned, _vol._ 1. _p._ 274, actual cautery, by means of +their _toule_, or _moxa_, is often applied. + +Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens among those Lapland women who are +in the service of the colonists, and who, in consequence of certain +obstructions, are subject also to Å“dematous swellings of the feet. + +I have not heard of a single instance of jaundice. + +Some elderly people are afflicted with asthma; and hoarsenesses now and +then occur in the winter and spring. + +The stone and gout are entirely unknown amongst the Laplanders. + +Swellings of the lower extremities are uncommon, as these people are in +the habit of swathing their legs, which renders them all slender and +well shaped. All dropsical complaints indeed are very rare, though I did +meet with one case of this kind. + +Of _tenesmus_ I happened to hear of but a single instance, though the +Laplanders eat so much cheese and drink water. + +Disorders in the stomach are not uncommon, which are frequently attended +with _diarrhÅ“a_, and in some years this disease is contagious. + +The specimens of minerals which I had collected in the course of my +tour were now become numerous, and consisted of the following articles. + +1. An alum, as I presume, of a club shape, without any taste, seeming as +it were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains to the north of the lake +Skalk, near Kiomitis. (See _vol._ 1. _p._ 267.) + +2. Native alum in its own matrix; from the same place. (_Alumen +nativum._ _Syst. Nat._ _vol._ 3. 101). + +3. Native alum, rough and green, separate from its matrix; from the same +mountains. + +4. Alum like the former in appearance, but not salt, perhaps a +calcareous stone; found not far from the same place. + +5. Various alpine micaceous stones. + +6. Marle from Lapland. + +7. Quartz from Lapland. + +8. Silver ore from Kiurivari. + +9. Silver ore from Nasaphiel in PithÅ“an Lapland. + +10. Sandstone containing three per cent. of iron. + +11. Black slate from the alps. + +12. Petrified corals from Norway. + +13. Iridescent fluors from the alps. + +The fish called by the Laplanders _Sijk_ (the Gwiniad, or _Salmo +Lavaretus_,) is taken in their lakes. Its head terminates in an obtuse +point. The upper jaw is the longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of the +eye silvery, with a blackish upper edge, and a black pupil. The whole +body is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven inches long and two +deep. Head two inches long at the sides; from the snout to the dorsal +fin four inches and a half. The dorsal fin consists of thirteen rays, of +which the first is by far the largest, and the last cloven or +interrupted. The soft fat fin is in its proper place. + + +_July 21._ + +The following are the disorders or inconveniences to which the reindeer +are subject. + +When the frost is so intense as to form an impenetrable crust on the +surface of the snow, so that the animal cannot break it with his feet, +to get at the Lichen on which he feeds, he is frequently starved to +death. This misfortune is as dreadful to the Laplanders as any public or +national calamity elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed, he must +himself either starve to death, beg for his livelihood, or turn thief. + +The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncommonly affected with a swelling at +the edge where they are attached to the skin, at which part they +consequently become ulcerated, and are seldom healed. The creature thus +grows lame, and cannot keep up with the herd. + +These animals are sometimes attacked with a _vertigo_, or giddiness in +the head, which causes them to run round and round continually. The +people assured me, that such of them as run according to the course of +the sun may be expected to get the better of the disorder; but those +which turn the contrary way, being supposed incurable, are immediately +killed. The recovery of the former is thought to be promoted by cutting +their ears, so as to cause a great discharge of blood. + +The _Kurbma_, or ulceration caused by the Gad-fly, (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +280.) takes place every spring, especially in the younger fawns. Such as +are brought forth in the summer season are free from this misfortune the +ensuing spring, but in the following one many of them lose their lives +by it. When come to their full size and strength, the consequences are +less fatal; but no reindeer is entirely exempt from the attacks of this +pernicious insect. + +The fawns are of a reddish hue the first season, during which they cut +their foreteeth. In the autumn they turn blackish, and have fodder given +them. They are when young frequently afflicted with a soreness in the +mouth, so as to be unable for a while to eat. + +Reindeer are subject to a disease called by the Laplanders _Pekke +Kattiata_, accompanied with ulcerations of the flesh, which however +often heal by a sloughing of the part affected. This is an epidemic +disorder. It is believed that if any of the ulcerous part, which is cast +off, be swallowed by the animal, in licking his own coat, or that of any +other of the herd labouring under this malady, it proves fatal by +corroding the viscera. + +The dugs of the female often become chapped or sore, so as to bleed +whenever they are milked. + +The male reindeer in his natural state is fatter than such as are +castrated, except the latter be kept without work, in which case they +become the fattest. Such as are castrated and allowed to run wild, +become considerably larger, as well as tamer, in consequence. + +The rutting season lasts but a fortnight, that is, from about a week +preceding the feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Michaelmas day, during +which period the male is savage and dangerous. Immediately afterwards he +casts his coat and horns, and not unfrequently becomes so emaciated, +that, in many instances, death is the consequence. + +Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.) in the following year, or within +a fortnight of that period, very rarely later, the females bring forth +their young. They do not copulate the first year, and seldom before the +third, their progeny being found the better for this delay. Indeed +neither the males nor females arrive at their full growth and perfection +before they are towards three years old. + +The fawn, whether male or female, is called the first year _mesk_; the +second season the male is called _orryck_, and the female _whenial_. In +the third year the latter, if she has been covered, is known by the +appellation of _watja_ or _waja_, which means a wife; if otherwise, she +goes by the name of _whenial-rotha_, the three-year old male being +called _wubbers_. In his fourth year the male is termed _koddutis_; in +the following one _kosittis_; in the sixth _machanis_, and in the +seventh _namma lappotachis_. After that period no male is kept, they all +perishing in consequence of the exhaustion above mentioned, but the +castrated ones live to a more advanced age. None of these animals +however survive beyond their twelfth or fourteenth year. When the +castrated males become very fat towards autumn, and show signs of old +age; or the females, having become barren, appear otherwise to be on the +decline, they are killed, by the knife, in the close of the year; from +an apprehension that they might otherwise perish of themselves from +infirmity, in the course of another season. + +Such of the male reindeer as are destined to serve for a stock of +provision, are killed before the rutting-time, and their carcases hung +up to be exposed to the air and frost before flaying. The flesh is +smoked and a little salted, and then laid upon sledges to dry in the +sun, that it may keep through the winter till spring. About the feast of +St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin to be so incommoded with the +gad-fly, that they are not in a fit condition to be slain for eating. +From that period therefore, till the milking season, the Laplanders are +obliged to live on this stock of preserved meat. At other times of the +year the females are killed for immediate use, according as they are +wanted. The blood is kept fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves +for food in the spring, being added to the _välling_ (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +129), with a small proportion of milk and water. The blood of these +animals is thick in consistence, like that of a hog. The Laplanders +carry a portion of it along with them from place to place, in bladders +or some kind of vessels. A stock of this and all other necessaries is +collected as late as possible, before the melting of the snow, while +there still remains a track for the sledges. + +A kind of blood pudding or sausage is made, in general without flour, +and with a large proportion of fat. This the Laplanders call _marfi_. + +The liver of the reindeer, which is of a considerable bulk, is boiled +and eaten fresh. The lungs, being salted and moderately dried, are eaten +occasionally, or else given to the dogs. The intestines, which abound +with fat, are cut open, washed, and boiled fresh; nor are they +unpalatable. The brain and testicles are never eaten. The foot is flayed +down to the fetlock joint, beyond which the hair cannot, by scalding or +any other contrivance, be separated, without the cuticle and skin coming +along with it. Even when the feet are boiled, the hair never comes off +without the skin. Thus the animal when living is the more firmly +protected against the snow. The hoofs are thrown away as useless. + +The dung of the reindeer in summer is almost as large as cow-dung, but +in winter it more resembles that of the goat. + +Each individual reindeer does not bear horns of precisely the same shape +every year. The points are very liable to be deformed, in consequence of +the animal's scratching them, while in a growing state, with its feet; +they being in that state much inclined to itch, and as tender as the +flesh of a fresh fish. + +These animals are afflicted with maggots called _kornmatskar_ in their +noses and gums, from which they relieve themselves in the spring by +snorting and blowing. When the insects lodge on their backs and form +pustules there, the people make a practice of squeezing them out, to +prevent the reindeer from being too much irritated by them. (This +species is the _Oestrus nasalis_, though the account here given is not +very clear; but in the first edition only of the _Fauna Suecica_ Linnæus +says, on the authority of a gentleman named Friedenreich, that "this +_Oestrus_ lodges its eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in +Lapland, and is frequently cast out by them as they travel along in the +spring.") + +When the skin is stripped from the carcase of the reindeer, it is +immediately spread out, and stretched as much as possible, by means of +a longitudinal pole, and a transverse stick at each end of the skin, +these sticks being pulled asunder with a strong cord. Several more +transverse twigs are placed between these two sticks, so as to extend +every part of the edges of the hide, which in this position is allowed +to dry. + +The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin taken from the legs of the +animal; their hairy shoes, of that from its forehead between the horns, +such being worth two dollars, copper money; while those made from the +skin of the legs, being much thinner, are of very little or no value. + +A Laplander never goes barefoot, though he has nothing to serve him for +stockings but hay (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). Sometimes he buys +leather for shoes or boots from his neighbours. + +The people of this country boil their meat in water only, without any +addition or seasoning, and drink the broth. _Jumomjölk_ (see _vol._ 1. +278.) kept for a whole year is delicate eating. Berries of all kinds +are boiled in it. Some persons make a practice of boiling those berries +by themselves, preserving them afterwards in small tubs, or other wooden +vessels. They boil their fish more thoroughly than their meat, over a +slow fire, drinking likewise the water in which it has been drest. The +meat is never so much boiled as to separate from the bone. Fresh fish is +sometimes roasted over the fire. Few people dry and salt it, though that +method is sometimes practised. Meat is dried by the air, sun and smoke +all together, being hung up in the chimney, or rather hole by which the +smoke escapes through the roof. + +The Laplanders never eat of more than one dish at a meal. + +By way of dainty, the women occasionally mix the berries of the Dwarf +Cornel (_Cornus suecica_) with _Kappi_ (see _vol._ i. _p._ 281.), which +is made of whey boiled till it grows as thick as flummery. To this they +moreover add some cream. That fruit is entirely neglected in the country +of Medelpad. + +In Dalecarlia the people generally keep their cattle up in the +mountains, twelve or sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on account +of gad-flies and other stinging insects. There they have their dairies, +and make cheese. The remaining whey is boiled till two thirds are +wasted, when it becomes as thick as flummery. This is sometimes eaten +instead of butter, sometimes mixed with dough, or serves for food in +various other manners. + +The wind is excessively powerful in this alpine region, so that +sometimes it is impossible to stand against it, both men and sledges +being overturned by its violence. + +It blew so hard at the place where I now was, that one of the windows of +the curate's house was blown in upon the floor. + +Every Laplander constantly carries a sort of pole or stick, tipped with +a ferule, and furnished with a transverse bit of wood. Whenever he is +tired, he leans his arms and nose against it to rest himself. + +Such as live in the forests are dexterous marksmen, but not those who +inhabit the alps. Nevertheless, they all contrive, by means of their +wooden bows, to procure, in the course of the winter, a considerable +number of Squirrels (_Sciurus vulgaris_) in their grey or winter +clothing, for the sake of their skins. + +In the winter season also they go in pursuit of their most cruel enemies +the wolves. One of these animals will sometimes kill twenty or thirty +reindeer at a time, if he comes into the enclosure where they are. The +wolf often runs away before the Laplander can get near enough to fire at +him. A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, except by coming upon it +unawares, the latter being much the most swift of foot; but if he gets +into any of the store-houses, he does a great deal of mischief, turning +every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also very dangerous in the fissures +of rocks and mountains, where they usually conceal themselves. + +The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) does most harm in the pantry or +store-house. He never meddles with the reindeer. + +A part of the employment of the men is to make sledges, or other +machines of wood for carriage. They cut rough wood in the forests for +the boxes which they carry with them into the alps. + +The duty of the women is to mend the clothes of the whole family. + +Laplanders have several plays or amusements. + +Children make of the dwarf birch (_Betula nana_) something like +reindeer's horns, with which they gore one another in sport. They amuse +themselves frequently by building little huts of stone. + +Grown-up people play very well at tennis, but they seldom partake of +that diversion. More common amusements are blindman's buff, and drawing +gloves. + +Here I think it worth while to observe, that the alpine Laplanders are +more honest, as well as more good-natured, than those who dwell in the +woodlands. Having acquired more polish from their occasional intercourse +with the inhabitants of towns, the latter have, at the same time, +learned more cunning and deceit, and are frequently very knavish. The +inhabitants of the alps dwell in villages formed of their tents, living +together, as I have already related, in great comfort and harmony. Those +who occupy the woody parts of the country live dispersed. + +The Laplanders know no musical instrument except the _lur_ (a sort of +trumpet), and pipes made of the bark of the quicken tree or mountain +ash. They are not accustomed to sing at church, except those who are +reckoned among the great or learned of the community. + +The inhabitants of this country are not more troubled with chilblains +than those of other places. They do not mind having their cheeks +frost-bitten. The women wear an embroidered band round the head, which +affords no protection in this respect; but the men have a loose band of +skin with the hair on, which can be pulled down occasionally over their +cap, when the cold is intolerable. + +(But to proceed with a further account of the diversions of the people I +am describing). + +_Spetto_, one of their games, is played, by men as well as women, in the +following manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty or sixty pieces of +wood, a hand's breadth in length, which are spread upon the extended +skin of a reindeer. One of the players takes a ball made of stone or +marble, larger than a boy's playing marble, which he throws up into the +air about an ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches away one of the +sticks, but in such a manner as not to miss catching the ball in its +fall, holding the stick in the same hand. He subsequently gathers +together, in his other hand, as many of the sticks as he has thus been +able to procure. If he fails in any respect, another person is to take +the ball, and proceed in the same manner, the former player resigning up +to him one of the sticks every time the ball is thrown, till no more +remain in his own possession. He who can take up all the sticks wins the +game. + +The following rules are to be observed. + +1. He who catches the ball, but not one of the sticks, must resign the +ball to another player, as well as he who has let it fall. + +2. He who takes up more than one stick at a time, must return what he +has taken. + +3. The adversary, that is, the last player, who could not succeed in +taking up all the sticks, is allowed to lay down as many as he pleases +of the sticks he has collected, and may arrange them according to his +fancy. It is usual to lay one upon another, in order to render the game +more difficult, the player being obliged to snatch up each separately; +which is not easy without taking two, when so situated, at once. + +4. When at length one person has taken up all the sticks, his adversary +is permitted to replace the two last of them upon the skin in any manner +he chooses. He commonly separates them as widely as possible. The person +who had previously gained the whole, is then required to take up both +these sticks at one throw of the ball, and if he fails he must give up +the game. Thus the victory is often lost by means of these two last +sticks. + +5. When the adversary fails of his aim, the other player is to take all +the sticks lying on the field, as well as those which, after having been +laid down by himself, were won by the other person, and the whole are to +be laid down again directly, in order to be taken up according to the +above rules. But he is no longer under any obligation himself to take up +the sticks which he has thus laid for his companion. + +The game called _Tablut_ is played with a checkered board, and +twenty-five pieces, or men, in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: Fig. 1, is the king, whose station is in the central +square or royal castle, called _konokis_ by the Laplanders, to which no +other person can be admitted.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes his subjects, +who, at the commencement of the game, are stationed in the eight +squares, adjoining to the royal castle, marked 2 and 3.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites, their adversaries, +who occupy the sixteen embroidered squares, (some of them marked 4 in +the cut,) situated four together in the middle of each side of the +field.] + +The vacant squares, distinguished by letters, may be occupied by any of +the pieces in the course of the game. + + +LAWS. + +1. Any piece may move from one square to another in a right line, as +from _a_ to _c_; but not corner-wise, or from _a_ to _e_. + +2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads of any other pieces that +may be in the way, or to move, for instance, from _b_ to _m_, in case +any were stationed at _e_ or _i_. + +3. If the king should stand in _b_, and no other piece in _e_, _i_, or +_m_, he may escape by that road, unless one of the Muscovites +immediately gets possession of one of the squares in question, so as to +interrupt him. + +4. If the king be able to accomplish this, the contest is at an end. + +5. If the king happens to be in _e_, and none of his own people or his +enemies either in _f_ or _g_, _i_ or _m_, his exit cannot be prevented. + +6. Whenever the person who moves the king perceives that a passage is +free, he must call out _raichi_, and if there be two ways open, +_tuichu_. + +7. It is allowable to move ever so far at once, in a right line, if the +squares in the way be vacant, as from _c_ to _n_. + +8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take it by turns to move. + +9. If any one man gets between two squares occupied by his enemies, he +is killed and taken off, except the king, who is not liable to this +misfortune. + +10. If the king, being in his own square or castle, is encompassed on +three sides by his enemies, one of them standing in each of three of the +squares numbered 2, he may move away by the fourth. If one of his own +people happens to be in this fourth square, and one of his enemies in +number 3 next to it, the soldier thus enclosed between his king and the +enemy is killed. If four of the enemy gain possession of the four +squares marked 2, thus enclosing the king, he becomes their prisoner. + +11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy in each of the adjoining squares, +_a_, _A_ and 3, he is likewise taken. + +12. Whenever the king is thus taken or imprisoned, the war is over, and +the conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the conquered party resigning all +the Muscovites that he had taken. + + * * * * * + +The Laplanders use the middle bark of the elm for dressing their +reindeer skins, but merely by chewing it, and rubbing their saliva on +the skins. + +They also tan with birch bark, but do not suffer the skins to remain +long under the operation, which they say would render them rotten and +apt to rend, neither can they spare them very long. + +White _walmal_ cloth is procured from Russia, but for want thereof they +commonly wear a light grey cloth of the same kind. + +Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir in the following manner. Choosing +the most slender roots, they scrape off the bark, while fresh, with the +back of a knife, holding the roots against the thigh. Afterwards each +root is first split with the knife into three or four parts, which are +then by degrees separated into a number of very slender fibres; and +these, being wrapped round the hand like a skain of thread, are tied +together. They are then boiled in a kettle for an hour or two, with a +considerable quantity of wood ashes. While still soft from this boiling, +they are laid across the knee, and scraped three or four times over with +a knife. At last they are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots serve in +like manner to afford cordage for the Laplanders, but more rarely. The +latter are more generally used, without being split, for basket-work. +For various articles of furniture the roots of _Tall_ (Scotch Fir, +_Pinus sylvestris_) are cut into small boards. The wood of that tree +serves for inferior kinds of work, and, amongst other things, for +cheese-vats. + +The Laplanders scrape with a knife the young and tender stalks of the +plant called _Jerja_, (_Sonchus alpinus_, _Sm. Plant. Ic._ _t._ 21.) and +eat them as a delicacy, like those of the great _Angelica_ (_A. +Archangelica_), which in the first year of their growth are termed +_Fatno_. + +A Laplander always places himself at the further part of his hut, and +his guest is seated next to him on a skin spread on purpose. The master +of the hut is by this means enabled to reach the vessel in which water +is kept for drink, and which always stands in the upper part of the hut. + +The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual stream both summer and winter. Now +if, according to the general opinion, the water of this river were +derived from exhalations of the great ocean, collected by the alps of +this country, it should cease to run when all the alpine tracts are +frozen. The stream must therefore be constantly fed by neighbouring +springs. + +The names by which the Laplanders distinguish the several times of the +day or night are as follows. + +Midnight is called in their language _kaskia_. The remainder of the +night before dawn, _pojela kaskia_. The morning dawn, _theleeteilyja_. +Sun-rise, _peivimorotak_. Two or three hours after sun-rise, _areiteet_. +The hour of milking the reindeer, which is about 8 or 9 o'clock, +_arrapeivi_. Noon, or dinner time, _kaskapeivi_. About 5 or 6 o'clock in +the afternoon, _eketis peivi_. Sunset, _peiveliti_. Night, _iä_. + +The days of the week are named as follows. + + Sunday, _Sotno peivi_. + + Monday, _Mannutaka_. + + Tuesday, _Tistaka_. + + Wednesday, _Kaska vacku_, or middle of the week. + + Thursday, _Tourestaka_. + + Friday, _Perietaka_. + + Saturday, _Lavutaka_. + +They have no names for the months, but certain weeks are distinguished +by the following appellations. + + Midsummer week, _Midtsomarvacku_. + + St. Peter's week, June 29, _Pelasmassu vacku_. + + Goose week, _Gassa vacku_. + + In the middle of the summer, _Gaskakis_. + + St. Margaret's, July 20, _Marcrit_. + + St. Olaus' mass, July 29, _Vollis_. + + (No date mentioned here.) _Vehak_. + + St. Laurence, Aug. 10, _Lauras_. + + Reindeer-fawn week, _Orryk_. When in a fawn two years old the horns + begin to bud. + + St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, _Barti_. + + (No date.) _Hoppmil_. + + St. Mary, Sept. 8, _Margi_. + + Holy Cross, Sept. 14, _Behawis_. + + St. Matthew, Sept. 21, _Matthus_. + + St. Michael, Sept. 29, _Michel_. + + (St. Faith, Oct. 6?) _Perkit_. + + (Middle of Oct.) _Talvi_. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed figure represents a Laplander's staff. It is tipped with a +blade of iron, as thick as the thumb. With this weapon he attacks the +bear and wolf in the time of deep snow. On the lower part of the shaft +is a sort of hoop, six inches in diameter, made of root of fir, and +fastened with thongs of reindeer skin, one of which passes through a +hole in the staff. At the bottom it is mounted with iron. The use of +this hoop is to prevent the staff from sinking into the snow, when used +as a walking-stick. The shaft itself, made of birch wood, is about four +feet long, and an inch and half thick. + +[Illustration] + +This sketch is taken from one of their snow shoes, made of wood. Its +length is six feet, from h to i; breadth, from k to g, five inches. The +hind part, i, is rather more obtuse than the other end, h, which last is +elevated about two or three inches. From h it gradually widens to f. The +part from c to d, where the foot stands, is about eight inches; its +breadth three. The under part of the shoe is convex, and furrowed +lengthwise; the upper flattish, raised about ten lines, and the edge all +round is sharp. At b is a band, made of fir root twisted, serving to tie +the shoe fast round the ancle. The general thickness of the shoe +throughout is from three to four lines. + +Some people wear a pair of the same size; others have the left shoe +smaller than the right. Each is often lined or covered, about the +central part, with a piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent the foot +slipping about upon the shoe, and give a firmer step in walking over the +snow. This is most practised in Kimi-Lapmark, where the wild reindeer +are most abundant. + +The Lapland thread is made out of the tendons of reindeer fawns half a +year old. Such thread is covered with tin foil for embroidery, its +pliability rendering it peculiarly fit for the purpose. The tendons are +dried in the sun, being hung over a stick. They are never boiled. + +To show to what a high degree of perfection these people have arrived in +the art of making such thread, I brought away a sample of it, which I +believe none of our ladies could match. + +Shoes and baskets made of birch bark are used both in Angermanland and +Helsingland, as well as ropes of the same material, which will not sink +in water, but these are not in general use. + +The bows which serve the Laplanders for shooting squirrels are composed +of two different kinds of wood, laid parallel to each other. The +innermost is birch, the outermost of what they term _kior_, _kioern_ or +_tioern_. (This is procured from a tree of the Common Fir, _Pinus +sylvestris_, that happens to grow in a curved form, usually in marshy +places, or on the banks of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard +like box: see _vol._ i. _p._ 255; also _Fl. Lapp. n._ 346, λ.) If this +be not practised, the bows are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood is +externally convex, yet not so much as to render the bow quite +cylindrical. + +When the Laplanders expect any visitors, they are particularly careful +to have plenty of _ris_ (branches of the dwarf birch) spread on the +floor, under the reindeer skins on which they sit; otherwise they would +be thought deficient in civility, and the mistress of the family would +be censured as a bad manager, when the guests returned to their own +homes. + +The mode of their entertainment is as follows. + +First, if the stranger arrives before their meat is set over the fire to +boil, they present him either with iced milk, or with some kind of +berries mixed with milk, or perhaps with cheese, or with _kappi_, (see +_vol._ i. _p._ 281.) Afterwards, when the meat is sufficiently cooked, +and they have taken it out of the pot, they put into the water, in which +it has been boiled, slices of cheese made of reindeer milk. This is a +testimony of hospitality, and that they are disposed to make their guest +as welcome as they can. They next serve up some of their dry or solid +preparations of milk. + +The marriages of the Laplanders are conducted in the following manner. +(This subject was treated in _vol._ i. _p._ 276, like Sterne's "history +of the king of Bohemia and his seven castles," no doubt to the great +dismay of the curious reader. We ought to have warned him of its being +resumed in a subsequent part of the work, but in truth we had not then +ourselves proceeded so far in deciphering the original manuscript.) + +1. In the first place the lover addresses his favourite fair-one in a +joking manner, to try whether his proposal be likely to prove acceptable +or not. Perhaps he even goes so far as to speak once or twice to her +father upon the subject. He then takes his leave, either fixing a time +for his return, or not, as it may happen. + +2. The lover next takes with him such of his nearest relations as live +in the neighbourhood, who, as well as himself, all carry provisions with +them, to the hut of his mistress, he going last in the procession. + +3. When the party arrive at the place of their destination, they all, +except the lover, walk in. If there happen to be any other huts near at +hand, it is usual for the damsel to retire to one of them, that she may +not be obliged to hear the conversation of the visitors. Her admirer +either remains on the outside of the door, amongst the reindeer, or goes +into some neighbouring hut. There are usually two or three spokesmen in +the party, the principal of whom is called _Sugnovivi_. When they are +all seated, the young man's father first presents some brandy to the +father of the young woman; upon which the latter asks why he treats him +with brandy? The former replies, "I am come hither with a good +intention, and I wish to God that it may prosper." He then declares his +errand. If the other party should not be favourably inclined to the +proposal, he rejects it, at the same time thanking the person who made +it. Upon this, all who are present endeavour to prevail upon him to give +his consent to the marriage. If they succeed, or in case the offer has +from the first been accepted, the friends of the lover fetch whatever +they have brought along with them, consisting of various utensils, and +silver coin, which they place on a reindeer skin, spread in the hut, +before the father and mother of the intended bride. The father or the +mother of the bridegroom then distributes the money between the young +woman and her parents. If the sum be thought too small, the latter ask +for more, and it frequently happens that much time is spent in +bargaining, before they can come to a conclusion. When the parties +concerned cannot obtain so large a sum as they think themselves entitled +to, they often reject the whole, and return the money to those who +brought it. But if, on the contrary, matters are brought to a favourable +conclusion, the parents allow their daughter to be sent for. Two of the +bridegroom's relations undertake this office. If the bride has any +confidential female friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm together; +and in this case the mother of the bridegroom is required to make a +present of a few brass rings, or something of that kind, to this friend +or sister, who keeps lamenting the loss of her companion. + +When the bride enters the hut, her father asks whether she is satisfied +with what he has done? To which she replies, that she submits herself to +the disposal of her father, who is the best judge of what is proper for +her. The mother of the bridegroom then presents the bride with the sum +allotted for her, laying it in her lap. If it proves less than she had +expected, she shows her dissatisfaction by various gestures, and signs +of refusal, in which case she may possibly obtain at least the promise +of a larger sum. All these gifts become her own property. + +When such pecuniary matters are finally arranged, the father and mother +of the bridegroom present him and his bride with a cup of brandy, of +which they partake together, and then all the company shake hands. They +afterwards take off their caps, and one of the company makes an +oration, praying for God's blessing upon the new-married couple, and +returning thanks to him who "gives every man his own wife, and every +woman her own husband." + +The parents of the bridegroom next partake of some brandy, and the whole +stock of that liquor which they had brought with them is fetched for the +company. + +All the relations of the bridegroom then come forward with their +provisions, which generally consist of several cheeses, and a piece of +meat dried and salted. The latter is roasted before the fire, while the +company is, in the mean while, regaled with some of the solid +preparations of milk, the bride and bridegroom eating by themselves, +apart from the rest. + +Two stewards are next chosen, one of them from the bride's party, the +other from that of the bridegroom. The last-mentioned party are then +required to furnish a quantity of raw meat, amounting to about a pound +and half to each person. This the stewards immediately set about +boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve it round to all present. +This meat is dressed in several separate pots, two only in each hut, if +there be any neighbours whose huts can serve to accommodate the party on +this occasion; for each Laplander has never more than one hut of his +own. The fat part of the broth is first served up in basons. Afterwards +various petticoats or blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on the +floor, by way of a table-cloth, on which the boiled meat is placed. The +chief persons of the company then, as many as can find room, take their +places in the hut of the bride's family, sitting down round the +provision, while the children and inferiors are accommodated in the +neighbouring huts. Grace is then said. The bride and bridegroom are +placed near together, for the most part close to the door, or place of +entrance. They are always helped to the best of the provision. The +company then serve themselves, taking their meat on the points of their +knives, and dipping each morsel into some of the fat broth, in which +the whole has been boiled, before they put it into their mouths. Numbers +of people assemble from the neighbourhood, to look in upon the company +through the door; and as they expect to share in the feast, the stewards +give them two or three bits of meat, according as they respect them more +or less. What remains after every body is satisfied, is put together, +and wrapped up in the blankets or cloths, that part of it which is left +by the new-married couple being kept separate from the rest, as no other +person is allowed to partake of their share. The dinner being over, the +whole company shake hands and return thanks for their entertainment. +They always shake hands with the bride and bridegroom in the first +place, and then with the rest, saying at the same time _kusslăn_. + +After taking some brandy, the whole party go to bed. The herd of +reindeer had been turned out to pasture from the time when the meat was +put into the pot. The bride and bridegroom sleep together with their +clothes on. + +When the company rise in the morning, if the bridegroom's father and +their party have any thing left, they treat the others with it; for the +family of the bride have seldom any preparation made, not expecting, or +not being supposed to expect, such company, and they never keep any +brandy by them, but purchase it for every occasion. Whatever cold meat +therefore remains is brought forward, to which the bride's party indeed +add cheese, and any other preparation of milk they may have in store, as +well as any dried meat; such things being usually kept by them. With +these the party regale themselves by way of breakfast. Afterwards the +family of the bride boil some fresh meat, as a final repast for their +guests, who, after partaking of it, take their leave. + +The banns are usually published once. The marriage ceremony, which is +very short, is performed after the above-mentioned company is departed. +This being over, the bridegroom either takes his wife immediately home +with him, or he goes to his own hut alone, and stays there from one to +five days, after which he returns to her residence, bringing with him +his herd of reindeer, and stays there for some time with her. + +Such of the Laplanders as are rich enough to afford it, make their wives +a present of a coverlet; a petticoat made of cloth, without any gathers, +as usual among these people; a small silver beaker or cup; several +rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon, &c.; so that many a bride costs +her husband more than a hundred dollars, copper money. To the mother he +perhaps gives a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat. + +I have already mentioned that the Laplanders eat _Angelica_ +(_sylvestris_) in a raw state. This plant, which the inhabitants of +Westbothland call _Bioernstut_, has so many names among the Laplanders, +according to the different stages of its growth, as to cause much +confusion to a stranger. The first year of its growth they term the root +_Urtas_, and the leaves _Fadno_; but the second year the plant is known +by the name of _Posco_ or _Botsk_. When the stalk is dried, or eaten +raw, they call it _Rasi_, that is, grass. They say, when any one has +eaten more of this plant than is good for him, "_Elli rasi ist purro +etnach_," the meaning of which is, "Thou hast overloaded thyself with +such a quantity of grass." + +Another herb of which they are very fond is the Sowthistle with a simple +stem, known by the name of _Jerja_. (_Sonchus alpinus._ _Fl. Lapp ed._ +2. 240. _Sm. Pl. Ic. t._ 21. _S. lapponicus._ _Willd. Sp. Pl._ _v._ 3. +1520.) This has a perennial root. The stem is erect, round, green, +smooth, except a few soft scattered hairs, which are most remarkable +towards the top and bottom, and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves about +twelve or fourteen, half clasping the stem, gradually smaller upwards, +nearly the shape of Dandelion, or of the common Sowthistle, one half of +each leaf, consisting of the terminal lobe, making exactly an acute +triangle, toothed at the edges; from that part downwards the leaf +contracts, but not to the main rib, and then again expands into two +narrow appendages, as it were, equal in breadth, but unequal in length, +which are crenate at their edges. From thence begins the stalk of the +leaf, which is winged and toothed, and half embraces the stem. The +leaves are thin and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper side, and the +upper ones are the least divided, as well as the bluntest. The flowers +are collected into a corymbus, somewhat like Butterbur, but more +loosely, especially in the lower part, each supported by a very short +stalk, accompanied by a very narrow oblong leaf which extends beyond the +flower. The calyx consists of several oblong, narrow, acute, imbricated +leaves, varying in number from fourteen to twenty, the outermost +gradually shortest, but the ten innermost are equal in length, and +blunter than the rest, composing two rows; the calyx altogether is +shorter than the corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Florets equal in +number to the leaves of the calyx. Germen short, square, crowned with +long white radiating down. Petal flat, cut away on one side, +violet-coloured, five-toothed. Stamens five, white, their apex (anther) +cylindrical, five-sided, white, marked with five blue lines. Pistil one, +forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dotted. This plant grows among +trees at the sides of mountains, along with the narrow-hooded Aconite +(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), flowering at the end of July or beginning of +August. The stem, which is milky, is eaten by the Laplanders in the same +manner as Angelica. The taste was to me very bitter, but the people of +the country do not find it so, though they confessed that it appeared +bitter to them when they first learned to eat it. As soon as the plant +shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody, and no longer eatable. + +The sinews of which the fine thread is made that, when covered with tin, +serves for embroidery, and is called _tentrÃ¥d_ (tin-thread), are taken +from the feet of the reindeer, or of oxen, boiled; though sometimes the +feet of sea-fowl are chosen for this purpose. Old women and girls are +employed in preparing this thread, by drawing it through holes made in a +piece of reindeer's horn. They wind it round their hands and feet as +they form it, and smear it with fat extracted from the foot of the +animal, to make it more supple, as they proceed. + +Hay is made in different modes in various parts of Sweden. In +Westbothland the fresh-cut grass is heaped together over night, that it +may get a heat. Next day it is spread out, and by this method its +quality is supposed to become richer and stronger. The same is practised +with hops in Jamtland, where the fresh-gathered hops are packed +together, as hard as possible, till they become warm; after which they +are spread out to dry. Their strength is by this means improved. + +The people of Scania having mowed their grass, let it lie till dry, when +they rake it together. + +The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed. + +The East Gothlanders range it in heaps, two and two together, in a long +row. + +In Upland the new-mown grass is tied up in bundles, and collected into +cocks. + +In Angermannia the whole year's crop is laid by upon a kind of raised +floor. + +In Westbothland, after being dried in the shed, the hay is kept there +for use, being laid crosswise, and cut when wanted[4]. + + +_July 23._ + +This evening I took leave of the alpine part of Lapland, and returned +by water from Hyttan towards Lulea. + +The White, or Mountain, Fox (_Canis lagopus_) lives among the alps, +feeding on the Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, (_Mus Lemmus_,) as well as on +the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_). This White Fox is smaller than the +common kind. The Ptarmigan, which the Laplanders call _Cheruna_, feeds +on the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), which for that reason is called +_Ryprys_, or Ptarmigan-bush. At night this bird lies squat upon the +snow, in the same posture as the Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_, see +_vol._ 1. 179): hence a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints it +makes in the snow. This mode of roosting renders the Ptarmigan an easy +prey to the Fox. + +The Lemming or Red Mouse, see _p._ 18, (_Mus Lemmus_,) in some seasons +entirely overruns the country; devouring the corn and grass: but though +these animals thus occasionally appear by millions at a time, they +subsequently depart and disappear as unaccountably, so that nobody knows +what becomes of them. They do no mischief in the houses. + +The Ermine (_Mustela Erminea_) is white in winter, red in summer. This +animal is seldom met with on the alps, but is very plentiful in the +forests. Foxes and Wolves have destroyed the chief of the Hares. The +Wolves indeed kill the Foxes. + +The Shrew Mouse (_Sorex araneus_) and Common Small Mouse (_Mus +Musculus_) are found in Lapmark, but no Rats (_Mus Rattus_). + +Hunting the Bear is often undertaken by a single man, who, having +discovered the retreat of the animal, takes his dog along with him and +advances towards the spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round with a +cord, to prevent his barking, and the man holds the other end of this +cord in his hand. As soon as the dog smells the bear, he begins to show +signs of uneasiness, and by dragging at the cord informs his master that +the object of his pursuit is at no great distance. When the Laplander +by this means discovers on which side the bear is stationed, he advances +in such a direction that the wind may blow from the bear to him, and not +the contrary; for otherwise the animal would by the scent be aware of +his approach, though not able to see an enemy at any considerable +distance, being half blinded by the sunshine. When he has gradually +advanced to within gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him; and this is +the more easily accomplished in autumn, as the bear is then more +fearless, and is continually prowling about for berries of different +kinds, on which he feeds at that season of the year. Should the man +chance to miss his aim, the furious beast will directly turn upon him in +a rage, and the little Laplander is obliged to take to his heels with +all possible speed, leaving his knapsack behind him on the spot. The +bear coming up with this, seizes upon it, biting and tearing it into a +thousand pieces. While he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all +his attention, upon the knapsack, the Laplander takes the opportunity +of loading his gun, and firing a second time; when he is generally sure +of hitting the mark, and the bear either falls upon the spot or runs +away. + + +_July 24._ + +In the huts of this neighbourhood I observed an instrument which I had +no where noticed before, consisting of an oblong board, placed +transversely at the end of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while +boiling. + +Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the west, and on the south of the +mountain of Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but hardly worth +working while the roads, by which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are in +so bad a state. + +This night I beheld a star, for the first time since I came within the +arctic circle. Nevertheless the darkness was not considerable enough to +prevent my reading or writing whatever I pleased. + +One of the Laplanders had caught a quantity of the fish called +_Sikloja_ (_Salmo Albula_) of a large size. He stuck about twenty of +them on one spit, the back of each being placed towards the belly of the +next, and they were thus roasted before the fire. These fish had +previously been dried, though not at all salted. + +The glue used by the Laplanders for joining the two portions of +different woods of which their bows are made (see _p._ 66,) is prepared +from the Common Perch (_Perca fluviatilis_) in the following manner. +Some of the largest of this fish being flayed, the skins are first +dried, and afterwards soaked in a small quantity of cold water, so that +the scales can be rubbed off. Four or five of these skins being wrapped +up together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch bark, so that no water +can get at them, are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil, a stone +being laid over the pot, to keep in the heat. The skins thus prepared +make a very strong glue, insomuch that the articles joined with it will +never separate again. A bandage is tied round the bow while making, to +hold the two parts the more firmly together. + +When these people undertake a short journey only, they carry no bag for +provisions, the latter being stored between their outer and inner +jackets, which are always bound with a girdle, being wide, and formed of +numerous folds, both above and below it. + +The Purple Willow-herb, or _Epilobium_ (_angustifolium_?) made the +fields at this time very beautiful. The Golden-rod (_Solidago +Virgaurea_) was likewise here in blossom, though not yet upon the alps, +where it flowers later. + +I have never yet seen any animal swim so light as the reindeer. During +the dogdays the herds of reindeer, belonging to the inhabitants of the +woody parts of Lapland, are very badly off for want of snow, with which +those animals refresh themselves in hot weather upon the alps. Hence +they constitute a more valuable and thriving property to the alpine +Laplanders than to any others. In the winter time, when the favourite +Lichen of the reindeer (_L. rangiferinus_) cannot be got at, their +keepers fell trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to serve them for +food; but it scarcely proves sufficient. + +The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a very white appearance, as if milk +had been mixed with it. This the inhabitants term _kalkwatter_, or +lime-water, from the colour, not from any knowledge of its cause or +origin. This rivulet they told me came from the alps. It empties itself +into the great river near Kiomitis, and renders the water of that river +white for the space of four or five miles. I noticed a similar +phænomenon at Wirijaur. + +I was amused with the mode in which these Laplanders take brandy. After +they have laid hold of the mug, they dip their forefingers into the +liquor, and rub a little on their foreheads, as well as on the middle of +their bosoms. On inquiring the reason, I was told their intention was +that the brandy might not prove hurtful either to the head or breast. + +Some people here were regaling themselves with fresh fish, of the kind +lately mentioned (_Salmo Albula_), which having boiled into a mass like +pap or flummery, they were eating out of their hands. + +The dress of the Laplanders is, in one particular at least, very wisely +contrived. Their thick collars effectually protect the throat and +breast, which being furnished with numerous nerves and small muscles, +and being the seat of the windpipe and of many principal veins and +arteries, are very important and susceptible parts. The neck moreover, +from its slender shape, is peculiarly exposed to cold. Hence the +protection of clothing is found very necessary to the parts in question. +For want of it our young women suffer much injury, which our youths +avoid by running into the contrary extreme of tying their neckcloths so +tight as to make themselves as red in the face as if they were half +strangled. + +We Swedes are accustomed to have all our clothing made very tight. Not +only the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings, +sleeves, &c., must all stick close to the body, and the tighter they are +the more fashionable. The Laplanders, on the contrary, wear only two, +and those slight, bandages about them, which moreover are broad, and +therefore less injurious than a narrow bandage in any part. Those to +which I allude are the waistband and knees of their breeches, both made +sufficiently loose and easy. + +To-day I gathered the following plants.--A reed-like panicled Grass, +with a very slender branched stem. (This appears to have been _Arundo +Calamagrostis_, _Fl. Lapp._ _n._ 42.) + +A great aquatic _Carex_, with inflated, whitish, pendulous spikes. In +more dry situations they were upright and shorter, but in every other +particular the same. (_C. vesicaria._) A grass with a slender +dark-coloured panicle, approaching the stem. (_Agrostis rubra_, _Fl. +Lapp._ _n._ 46.) + + +_July 25._ + +The lakes in this part of the country did not afford me so many plants +as further south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and destitute of +vegetation. Their shores were no less barren. No Water-lilies +(_Nymphææ_), no Water-docks, &c., (different species of _Rumex_,) grew +about their borders, but the surface of the water itself was covered +with the Water Ranunculus (_R. aquatilis_), bearing round as well as +capillary leaves, and whitening the whole with its blossoms. I could not +but wonder to see these broad patches of white spread over the lakes, +though, when I passed up the country but a fortnight before, I had not +perceived the least appearance of even the herbage of the _Ranunculus_ +that composed them. Now its branches, an ell in length, swam on the +surface. The growth of the stem must be very rapid, as it often +proceeded from a depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants thrown up on +the shore had capillary leaves, as are all those which grow under the +water. The root resembles that of the _Iris_. + +I noticed also the Pondweed with leaves clasping the stem (_Potamogeton +perfoliatum_, rare in Lapland); and a very large branched floating +Water-grass, with cylindrical spikes, which I hesitate whether to +separate from the _Gramen aquaticum geniculatum spicatum_, (of Bauhin +and Rudbeck. _Alopecurus geniculatus_ of Linnæus. The grass of which he +here speaks is _n._ 38 of his _Flora Lapponica._ _A. geniculatus_ β, +_Sp. Pl._ 89.) + +The annexed figure represents the Norwegian cross-bow, used for shooting +squirrels, which it will hit at the distance of twenty or thirty paces +as certainly as a gun. + +It was curious to observe the dexterity with which one of the +Laplanders hit a small fly, which I had set up for a mark, at the +distance of thirty paces. + +[Illustration] + +The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is two feet and a half long, two +inches wide in the middle, gradually sloping off to the extremities, +which are only one inch in width. Each end is rounded, with a notch, +where the cord is fixed, which, when the bow is drawn, seems in danger +of immediately slipping off, but it never does. The whole bow when at +rest makes a curve of two inches; when strongly bent it forms one of +seven. + +The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is made of twisted hemp, as thick +as one's finger, bound round with hempen thread, especially in the +middle, where it is to receive the bolt. + +The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented with inlaid work of bone, is two +feet and a half long, and half a palm broad, being half an inch thick +towards the top, and an inch at the base. Its upper side is entirely +covered with the above-mentioned inlaying, and quite even or flat, +except towards the base or handle, where it is slightly concave. + +The part marked d on the bow, and D on a larger scale annexed, is the +catch, like a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and in the side of +which is a projection, with a rectangular notch, see _fig._ 1 and 2. +When the bow is bent, the angle at _fig._ 2 catches the cord, and is let +go by means of the apparatus represented at c, c, by the side. + +As no human being is sufficiently strong to draw this bow with the hands +alone, a strap of leather is fixed round the loins, ending in two iron +hooks, which lay hold of the cord. One foot is put into the strap at the +top of the bow, h, and then, by the exertion of the body, the bow is +drawn till the cord catches the angle of the pulley D. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed cut represents the bolt of this Norwegian crossbow, which is +a foot and half long, an inch thick. From the extremity, which is +thicker and blunt, to the feathered part, is about a foot. The feathers, +taken from the wing of the great Grous or Cock of the wood, (_Tetrao +Urogallus_,) are stripped from the quill, and placed erect in three +longitudinal rows; and after being bound on with thread, the part by +which they are attached is smeared with pitch, to fix them the more +firmly. The whole bolt is made of birch wood. Its base is compressed, +naked and smooth, formed with a groove to receive the bow-string. + +This more finished and elaborate sort of bow is principally used in +Westbothnia. The whole cost of one, with all its appurtenances, amounts +to fifteen dollars, copper money. The Laplanders therefore content +themselves with a far more rude and simple apparatus, consisting of such +a wooden bow made of birch, as I have already described, with a string +fitted to it. Or they merely cut a branch of fir in the forest, and with +any bit of cord that happens to come in their way, kill abundance of +squirrels, holding the bow with their left hand, and drawing it with +their right by means of a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I have +witnessed, take successful aim at the _Emberiza nivalis_, or Snow +Bunting, sitting on the tops of the most lofty pines. + +It is commonly reported that no clay is to be found in Lapland, but I +met with some in two different places; in each instance indeed it was at +the bottom of a lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask, the shores +being of sand though the bottom was clay. + +Nets are set in the lakes in winter to catch the Sijk fish (_Salmo +Lavaretus_, or Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose in the ice, +and the nets are dragged with a string. This is done from St. Andrew's +day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas. + +The Laplanders make their sledges serve for chests, when they are not +used for their proper purpose, by constructing a sort of roof or convex +covering, with an opening in the middle, to admit whatever they choose +to store up within. This opening shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in +this state occasionally serve for the conveyance of goods from one place +to another, the covering keeping them dry. + +Caps are made of the skin of the _Colymbus arcticus_, (Black-throated +Diver,) which is very tough when properly prepared. This bird has a grey +ring round its neck, as described by Wormius. + +I met with a _Carex_, bearing round capsules, full of black powder. +(Probably _Carex panicea_, whose seeds are often infected with the +_ustilago_ or smut.) + + +_July 26._ + +I shall here give a description of the _Achier_ or sledge. This is a +kind of travelling machine invented by the Laplanders, drawn along the +ground like other sledges, and made of birch wood. The back part is +upright, or nearly so, the lower part only being somewhat sloping +inwards, and its form is roundish, the height a foot, the breadth a foot +and a half. The body of the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with an +obtuse keel, and consists of five longitudinal boards on each side, +lying one over the edge of another; that which forms the keel being +about an inch thick, and lying flat like the others. Each board is not +externally plane, but convex, so that as the carriage is drawn over the +snow it leaves several tracks or lines where it goes, the board which +forms the keel only being quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at one +extremity in a circular manner to the roundish board that makes the +back, (or as it were the stern,) are collected by their points at the +other, and all bound together with a rope, for there are no nails to +fasten them. The whole carriage is six feet in length, and from the back +part to within two feet of the front its breadth is all the way about +four feet. From that spot the keel begins to curve upwards, and the +transverse dimensions are contracted gradually to a point. This sledge +is drawn by a rope that goes through a hole in the front of the keel. +The edges or sides of the machine do not curve outwards, but rather +inwards. When any covering is to be put on, which is always done in part +when any person is to travel sitting in this carriage, and entirely, +from one end to the other, when it is intended to be used for the +conveyance of goods, two or three semicircular or archlike bows are +erected, fixed by their ends within the edges of the carriage, which +serve to support a covering of seal-skin, or cloth, whose margin next +the back is loose, and so far distant from that part as to allow the +traveller to sit upright, his legs lying under the cover, while the said +margin is tied round his waist, like an apron, serving to keep the snow +out of the hollow part of the machine. The person of the traveller is +further secured by strings fixed to the edges of the carriage, which +lace around him across the top, so as to prevent his being thrown out by +any oblique or unexpected movement. Each board, which composes the body +of the sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside, but still the whole +internal surface is sufficiently smooth and even. The point in front +sometimes projects a foot beyond the hollow part[5]. + +It is worthy of notice that the Laplanders use no almanack, but in its +stead only a kind of instrument like the ancient runic calendar of the +Goths, composed of seven small splinters or boards. They have indeed +names to mark some periods, as already mentioned p. 62; but they do not, +like us, compute time by the month, but by the course of their various +holidays. They have also a name for every week. They are unable to tell +when an eclipse of the sun or moon is to be expected. The year begins, +by their reckoning, on the Friday before Christmas day. + +The people in the part of the country where I was now travelling wear, +in summertime, either a coat of walmal cloth next the skin, or no coat +at all, only a _lappmudd_ as they call it, (or garment of +reindeer-skin,) stripped of its hair. + +At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where we in vain attempted to procure a +boat. We had no resource but to make ourselves a float or raft, on which +we committed our persons and all our property to the guidance of the +current of the river. The night proved very dark in consequence of a +thick fog, insomuch that we could not see before us to the distance of +three fathoms. After a while we found ourselves in the middle of the +stream, and it was not long before the force of the water separated the +timbers of our raft, and we were in imminent danger of our lives. At +length however, with the greatest difficulty, we reached a house +situated on an island, after a voyage of half a mile from where we +embarked[6]. + +At Purkijaur I hired a man to show me the manner of fishing for pearls, +for which I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made a raft of five +timbers as thick as my body, and two fathoms in length. At each end was +a staple to which the anchor was attached. This anchor was nothing more +than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch that it might not be lost, +to which he fastened a cord, about two fathoms in length, made of birch +twigs. He was likewise furnished with a pole of the same length, which +served him to steer his raft, as it floated along the strong current. +The bottom of the river is not easily seen at any great depth; but when +he could distinctly perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor, fixing the +upper end of the rope to the staple on the raft, by which it became +stationary. Whenever he wished to examine another spot, he weighed +anchor, and resigned himself to the force of the current. Where the +water was shallow, he stood upright on his raft; but where the depth was +considerable, he lay at full length, with his face downwards, looking +over the edge of the raft. + +By means of a pair of wooden pincers, two fathoms in length, he laid +hold of the pearl oysters (rather muscles, _Mya margaritifera_,) and +drew them up. The part of the pincers below the joint or hinge was about +a span long, and of three fingers breadth, hollowed out at the points, +one of which was curved, the other flat. Taking the other end of these +pincers in his hands, he easily directed them to the spot where he saw +the shells lying. + +The latter were generally open, so that they might readily be discerned +by the whiteness of their inside; but when the water is very much +agitated, the animals immediately close their shells, though destitute +of eyes or ears. + +The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong, with a contraction, or +shallow notch as it were, about the middle of their outer margin. The +man opened them by means of a whilk shell, which he thrust with violence +between the valves, for it is impossible to effect this with the finger +only. He introduced the point of the whilk in the centre of the base, or +broader end, of the muscle, searching for the pearls chiefly towards the +other end, on the inside of the valve. If the inside of the latter be +white, the pearl is white; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is of the +same colour. + +When it was first discovered that this neighbourhood produced pearls, +the river at Purkijaur was the place where the principal pearl-fishery +was established. But now it is nearly exhausted. When the discovery of +this bed of pearl muscles was first made, it is said the shells were in +such abundance that nobody could reach the bottom of them, which is far +from being the case at present. + +There is no external sign about the shell, by which it is possible to +know whether it contains a pearl or not. Consequently many thousands are +destroyed to no purpose before one pearl is found. It is also a great +pity that all the muscles are killed in consequence of this examination. +Each pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose. They are found at +all seasons of the year, and are sometimes thrown out of the shell +spontaneously by its inhabitant. + +I witnessed at this place what appeared to me a very extraordinary +phenomenon, a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was found a young duck +entire. The peasant who was my companion told me he had many times seen +the same thing. + + +_July 27._ + +The reindeer fed with evident avidity on the great water Horsetail +(_Equisetum fluviatile_), which the Laplanders call _Aske_, though it +was in a dry state, and though they will not eat common hay. How +unaccountably negligent are the Laplanders, not to collect in the +course of summer a stack of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_) for winter fodder! They would then have some provision +for the herd, when the country is covered with an impenetrable crust of +frozen snow, and not hazard the loss of all they are worth in the world. + +The inhabitants of Westbothnia, to defend themselves against the bites +of gnats, besmear their skin with a mixture of tar and fish-grease, or +some other kind of fat. They keep this composition in a horn which hangs +at their side. The Laplanders however give themselves no trouble about +any such matter. + +In order to add to the pungency of the tobacco which they are in the +habit of chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the root of _Angelica_. +(_A. Archangelica_ is preferred, but when that is not at hand, the +_sylvestris_ is used, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_.) + +The women wear their belts in the same manner as the men, except when +they are big with child, in which case the belt must necessarily be +placed much higher than ordinary. + +This day I found the little heart-leaved _Ophrys_ (_O. cordata_) +growing, as it usually does, amongst the _Rubus Chamæmorus_, whilst I +was gathering the fruit of the latter. Also the least _Pinguicula_ (_P. +villosa_); but its leaves were withered, and the fruit was ripe, which +is heartshaped and emarginate, of two valves and one cell. The +last-mentioned plant grew among White-moss (_Sphagnum palustre._ These +specimens are still preserved in the Linnæan herbarium.) + +The bird called (by the Swedes) Lappskata, Rödfogel in Westbothland, +Gvousach in Lapland, (_Corvus infaustus_, _Faun. Suec._ 32. _Lath. Ind._ +159. _Lanius infaustus_, _Syst. Nat._ _v._ 1. 138,) is of a small size, +but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it can find, being so far from +timid that it flew away with part of our provisions as we sat at table. +This bird seems nearly allied to the Jay (_Corvus glandarius_). + +It is only in winter the clothes of the Laplanders have any sort of +lining, except that these people generally wear, next the stomach, the +skin of a young reindeer fawn. The sleeves of their coats are not fixed +to the jacket, or body of the garment. The part which covers the +shoulder folds over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of a wedge. A +seam reaches the whole length of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each +side, the jacket becoming gradually wider, downward. It reaches as low +as the middle of the leg. The collar is for the most part blue, stitched +with white thread. + +The reindeer are not slaughtered in the same manner as cattle usually +are either at Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal being secured with a +halter, the Laplander takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax +behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the heart. By this means the blood +collects in the cavity of the thorax, none of it appearing externally. +After the skin is flayed off, the blood is found coagulated in the +thorax, from whence it is extracted, and bruised into a soft mass. With +this the poorer sort of people make a kind of soup, by boiling along +with it the brains of the animal, which the rich do not eat. The +testicles are never eaten by any sort of people. The _penis_ serves to +make a thong to draw the sledges. + +Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the forests go to the alps at +midsummer and return about St. Laurence's day (August 10th); and the +mountain Laplanders descend into the lower country between the first of +November and Christmas, and go back again about Lady-day. + +All kinds of clothing made of skins are sewed with sinews of animals, as +before described; but those of walmal cloth, with hempen thread +purchased from the neighbouring countries. + + +_July 28._ + +To-day I found the _Pseudo-helleborine_; (possibly _Cypripedium +Calceolus_, not before mentioned in this journal.) + +All the little rills and rivulets hereabouts produced a _Potamogeton_, +which I was doubtful whether to distinguish from the common kind, as it +varies excessively in appearance, but the leaves are more grassy. (_P. +gramineum_, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_, yet nothing can be +less like the "common kind," if by the latter be meant the _natans_, +which, with the _perfoliatum_ and _gramineum_, compose the catalogue of +species in _Fl. Lapp._) + +Hereabouts grew the _Juncus_ with three seeds (_capsules_) at the top of +the stem, which also I observed to be sometimes reflexed. (_J. +triglumis_; see _Fl. Lapp._ ed. 2. 90.) + +Several days ago the forests had been set on fire by lightning, and the +flames raged at this time with great violence, owing to the drought of +the season. In many different places, perhaps in nine or ten that came +under my notice, the devastation extended several miles' distance. I +traversed a space three quarters of a mile in extent which was entirely +burnt, so that Flora, instead of appearing in her gay and verdant +attire, was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhorrent to my feelings +than to see her clad in the white livery of winter, for this, though it +destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in safety, which the fire does +not. The fire was nearly extinguished in most of the spots we visited, +except in ant-hills, and dry trunks of trees. After we had travelled +about half a quarter of a mile across one of these scenes of desolation, +the wind began to blow with rather more force than it had done, upon +which a sudden noise arose in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only +compare to what may be imagined among a large army attacked by an enemy. +We knew not whither to turn our steps. The smoke would not suffer us to +remain where we were, nor durst we turn back. It seemed best to hasten +forward, in hopes of speedily reaching the outskirts of the wood; but +in this we were disappointed. We ran as fast as we could, in order to +avoid being crushed by the falling trees, some of which threatened us +every minute. Sometimes the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden, that we +stood aghast, not knowing whither to turn to escape destruction, and +throwing ourselves entirely on the protection of Providence. In one +instance a large tree fell exactly between me and my guide, who walked +not more than a fathom from me, but, thanks to God! we both escaped in +safety. We were not a little rejoiced when this perilous adventure +terminated, for we had felt all the while like a couple of outlaws, in +momentary fear of surprise. + +I have long ago related my sufferings from gnats in the course of my +Lapland expedition. In this place I was still more incommoded by some +very small flies, about a line in length and very narrow. Their breast +was of a blueish grey. Front of the head whitish, with black eyes. +Wings pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and narrow. A white scale was +placed on each side at the insertion of the wings. The legs were black, +with a white joint in the middle of each, the base being speckled. The +hind part of the shoulders was whitish. _Antennæ_ simple, minute, +parallel, and pointing right forward. The wings lay one over the other +so as to resemble a single one, notched at the extremity, when the +insect was at rest. Each of us was beset by a whole legion of these +flies towards sun-set. What rendered them peculiarly troublesome was +their manner of running over the face, and flying into the nose, mouth +and eyes. When they were approaching in order to inflict their bite, +they were not to be driven away by our blowing ever so hard. The +Laplanders call these insects _Mockere_, alluding to the smallness of +their head; the Swedes _Knott_. (_Culex reptans._ Linnæus mentions in +the _Fauna Suecica_ the extremely tiresome noise made by these gnats in +their approach.) They covered our linen so as to render it quite black. +It was to no purpose to attempt to drive them away. (See _v._ 1. 208.) + +I visited the Laxholms, islands so called from the salmon fishery. Here +the Common Salmon (_Salmo Salar_, named _Lax_ by the Swedes,) is found +with the under jaw occasionally hooked, which variety is termed +_Kroklax_, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired whether this hooked kind was +esteemed a distinct species, or whether a difference arising from age; +to both which questions I was answered in the negative. I was shown fish +of the smallest size, which had in proportion as large a hook to the +lower jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore fallen into an error in +his dissertation upon salmon. (_Daniel Bonge_, _Dissertatio de Salmonum +naturâ_, _corumque apud Ostrobothnienses piscatione_, _Upsal._ 1730. +4to. under the presidency of Professor Roberg, with wooden cuts.) I +inquired whether the hooked salmon were furnished with roe or with milt. +I was answered that they had always milt. On opening seven of them I +found this verified, whereas four salmon which were not hooked had all +of them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon is so called, because the +point of its lower jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form, resembling +a finger; while on the contrary the upper is furnished with a cavity to +receive that point, embracing it like a sheath, for about half its +length. The female fish has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less +inflexed, there being only a very slight furrow in the upper one; so +that the two sexes may be distinguished from each other by these marks +from the earliest age. + +Those who fish for salmon come to this place about a fortnight before +midsummer, and remain till St. Bartholomew's day, August 24th, as during +that space of time the salmon keep ascending the river. After the day +last mentioned none of the fishermen remain. Few of the fish escape +being taken, so as to return down the river. At Michaelmas the fishermen +come here again, when they catch a smaller sort of salmon. + +This day I observed the harvest beginning. The corn now cutting, though +sown but a few days before midsummer, was nevertheless quite ripe. The +lent rye was not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the winter rye ripens +some time before the other corn. Thus it appears that corn (barley) +springs up and ripens at this place in the space of sixty days. + +In my walks I gathered the berries of the Strawberry-leaved Bramble +(_Rubus arcticus_), which proved delicious. They have somewhat of the +flavour of Blackberries (_Rubus fruticosus_), but are more agreeable. +This fruit does not separate from its calyx like other specie of its +genus. It is a compound berry, in size and structure somewhat between +what the Smolanders call _Kodden_ (_Rubus saxatilis_), and Raspberries +(_R. idæus_). Its colour is a brownish crimson. + +The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ is perennial, with scales, not +a fibrous tuft or beard, at the root[7]. The stem is round, not +quadrangular. Calyx five-cleft[8]. Lower lip regular, divided into three +equal segments. + +_Pedicularis_ with a purple head (_Bartsia alpina._ _Linn. Sp. Pl._ 839. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 361. _Euphrasia._ _Fl. Lapp. n._ 246.) shows an affinity +to the _Crista Galli_ (_Rhinanthus_) in its calyx, which is divided into +four equal acute segments. The fruit is ovate and acute, compressed at +the point. Lower lip straight. All the other _Pediculares_, except +_Sceptrum Carolinum_, have an oblique fruit. + +Here and there grew specimens of Heath (_Erica vulgaris_) with tufted +branches, looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very beautiful. + +The water of the river now began to decrease, in consequence of which it +became clearer, and it was more difficult to catch any fish. + +Scarcely any species of _Carex_ was to be found this season but what had +some degree of smut or _ustilago_ about its spikes, consisting of little +globular black bodies, changing to dust. + + +_July 29._ + +Tanning of leather is thus performed by the Laplanders. + +The scaly cuticle of the birch being first stripped off, the bark is +then scraped from the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about as long +a time as is requisite to boil fish; being afterwards set by to cool, to +a certain degree, that it may not injure the hide by being too hot. The +latter, having previously been scalded, by dipping into luke-warm water, +is then soaked in the decoction of bark, and the vessel containing it +sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the extremity of the hut. The +hide is taken out every day, and softened in luke-warm water, till the +hair becomes loose, when it is scraped off by such a knife as tanners +use. The skin is then replaced in the tan when cool, without any +previous drying, till the third day after the hair comes off, when it is +hung up to dry in the shade. When the leather is but half dry, they +often cut it up for shoes, which are always made by the women, without +any last. The thread used for the purpose is that made of tendons. + +Some persons never scald the hide, but scrape off the hair with a knife, +soak it a little in water, and then plunge it into the tan. + +Near Swartlär I noticed a mineral spring, but whatever may be its +qualities, nobody has yet made any inquiries concerning them. + +The river Lulea divides into two branches, not far above the bounds of +Lapmark and Westbothnia, one of which is called the little river Lulea, +whose origin is among the mountains towards Hyttan, the other Stor +Lulea, running from the alps in Nörbattra. + + +_July 30._ + +On examining the cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), I found the +structure of the female as follows. Calyx consisting of an universal +involucrum of four leaves, and a partial one, likewise of four ovate +leaves, containing eight florets, each of which has an ovate spatha, of +a very large size with respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Petals +none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas acute. Seed-vessel none, the base +of the spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary. + +The shore of the river Lulea produced, in excessive abundance, the Water +Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_); likewise the Aquatic Dwarf Plantain +(_Limosella aquatica_). The Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here +grew above other plants, twisting its leaves round them, like a sort of +bindweed. (_Alopecurus geniculatus_ β. _Sp. Pl._ 89. See _Fl. Lapp. n._ +38.) + +The Water Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_) proved no less plentiful by the +sides of the roads. + +In the river I gathered an herb, which I was doubtful whether to refer +to _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), to _Potamogeton_, or to the _Aponogeton_ +of Pontedera. (This appears to have been the latter, _Zannichellia +palustris_.) + +I reached the old town of Lulea in the evening. + +It rained and thundered violently during the whole night. + + +_July 31._ + +This day I had intended to prosecute my journey towards Tornea, but a +heavy rain, with tremendous thunder and lightning, confined me entirely +to the house. + +The wife of the principal clergyman of Lulea, on whose accuracy I have +the greatest possible dependance, assured me that she had, at the +posthouse of Biorsiö, in the parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large +quantities of the Yellow Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_; see vol. 1. +36), collected and boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage. This +astonished her very much, as she knew it to be used in Jemtland to +poison flies. When she expressed her apprehensions about eating of this +herb, the maid-servant laughed at her, telling her it was much too good +to be so slighted. + +Hares are always hunted in this part of the country, and the dogs are +trained not to bark. If they offend in this respect they are sure of a +beating. + + +_August 1._ + +I found some Truffles (_Lycoperdon Tuber_) between Heden and Swartlä. + +Near the road grew _Glaux_ (_maritima_), as well as the Narrow-leaved +Sea Plantain (_Plantago maritima_), and Small-leaved _Angelica_ (_A. +sylvestris_). On a bank I observed _Triticum maritimum_. (This last is +thought by Dr. Afzelius to be _Elymus arenarius_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2 +_n._ 34.) + +Here various plants, which I had found blossoming at UmÅ“a, were now +laden with fruit, as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Vaccinia_ +(Whortle-berries), _Chamæmorus_ (_Rubus Chamæmorus_, Cloud-berry), and +_Chamærubus_ (_R. saxatilis_, Stone Bramble), all which vied with each +other in the profusion of their berries. But little Ling (_Erica_) was +to be seen. + +The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds, which had partly been burnt, +were covered with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_). + +Towards evening I arrived at Tornea. The weather was fine. + +Near Grotnäs, situated opposite to the church of Calix, is a ferry to +convey passengers to this church, adjoining to which the inhabitants of +Lulea and Tornea keep a fair. + +The river produces abundance of Flote-grass, which at this time bore its +spikes or heads of flowers. I had long been acquainted with the plant, +it being very abundant in this country as well as in Smoland, and had +wondered what species it could be; especially as I never heard of any +botanist who had met with the fructification. It is a _Sparganium_, +whose leaves are very long, reaching a fathom or two, according to the +depth of the water, and floating on its surface. They are convex at +their back, except in the lower part, which is flat on both sides. (This +plant named _Flotagræs_, or Flote-grass, in Linnæus's native country of +Smoland, is the _Sparganium_ _n._ 345* of _Fl. Lapp._, in the second +edition of which work I have called it _S. natans_, on his own authority +in the _Flora Suecica_ and _Species Plantarum_; but in _English Botany,_ +_v._ 4. 273, and _Fl. Brit._ 962, this error is corrected, so far at +least as concerns the original Lapland specimen, which is unquestionably +_S. simplex_, _Engl. Bot._ _v._ 11. _t._ 745, a species he did not, in +his works, distinguish from our common _S. ramosum_, _t._ 744. I am now +persuaded he confounded this _simplex_ with the _natans_ in his Lapland +tour, as well as in his herbarium, where the original specimens of the +two are pinned together.) + + +_August._ 2 + +They dry their corn upon drying sheds as is practised in Smoland. The +cross piece is turned towards the south, but the method here differs +from that of the Smolanders in one respect. The latter place one sheaf +on the top of another, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia lay the +sheaves cross-wise, in an alternate order, each thinking their own +method the best for procuring the most complete ventilation. In this +country fifteen sheaves are lodged under each shed, without supporters; +but in Smoland twelve only, ten of which are in the main pile and two at +the sides. The Smolanders therefore are able to reach high enough to +place their uppermost sheaves by hand, but the inhabitants of +Westbothnia find it necessary to be provided with what they term a +_Skyllkrok_, or Rick-hook, consisting of a round pole, with a +transverse projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-post in England, +as appears by the sketch in the manuscript,) by means of which each +sheaf is lifted up. + +On a heath very near the river Sangis I noticed some earth of a red +colour. The dry part of the forest which had been burnt down, produced +Reindeer-moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_) in such abundance, that the whole +face of the ground was covered with it. + +The evening was fine when I reached Zangis (or Sangis), where I took +leave of my native tongue. + + +_August 3._ + +At sun-rise the marshes were all white with hoar frost. In the preceding +night winter had paid his first visit, and slept in the lap of the +lovely Flora. I did not observe that she had suffered from her rude +visitor, except with regard to the _Dracontium_ (_Calla palustris_), the +leaves of which assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest in bloom at +this place, are _Erica_ (_vulgaris_), the Red-flowered Persicaria +(_Polygonum Persicaria_), and _Hieracium præmorsum_ (_Leontodon +autumnale_, _Sp. Pl._ 1123. _Hedypnois autumnalis_, _Fl. Brit._ 826. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 830.) + +On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-tongue behind me. At Saris I met +with native Finlanders only, whose language was unintelligible to me. + +Here grew the _Masarooth_ (_Selinum palustre_) with a proliferous umbel. + +The mouse-traps used here are made like those for catching squirrels; +which I have already described. + +Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tornea are three ferries to pass. In +my way I noticed a new species of _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), of a +small size, not leafy at the top, erect, not creeping like the _S. +minor_; (see _Fl. Lapp. n._ 2. _var._ γ.) It had the appearance of +_Potamogeton graminifolium_ (_gramineum_). (What particular state or +appearance of the _Callitriche_ this might be, does not appear, nor is +it mentioned in _Fl. Lapp._) + +I reached Tornea by three o'clock. + + + + +TORNEA. + + +_August 4._ + +A reindeer may be driven in a carriage twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, +or, at the utmost, fifteen; but the animal is generally killed +immediately afterwards with the Laplanders' spears, and eaten. + +The Laplanders are perhaps so called from the (Swedish) word _lappa_, to +sew or patch together, because their garments usually answer to that +description. + +The degree of cold is certainly greater on the alps than in less +elevated regions; for instance, it is colder in Jamtland than at Tornea, +though the former lies about one hundred miles further south. Thus it +appears that the cause of the severity of the cold does not depend so +much on the approach towards the pole, as on the elevation of the +ground, which ought to be carefully observed. Hence the plants of the +north of Lapland are such only as are capable of resisting the most +severe and long-continued cold, and hence snow lies on the alps of +Italy. + +Alpine plants are, for the most part, perennial, except the Little Blue +Centaury (_Gentiana nivalis_), and perhaps the Single-flowered _Lychnis_ +(_apetala_). I wish botanists would endeavour to discover and make known +any new kinds of pulse or grain, especially such as are of a hardy +constitution, and not likely to suffer from the severity of winter. Some +are perhaps to be found among the grasses. It is necessary to ascertain +what degree of northern latitude they would bear, and whether they are +capable of growing within the frigid zone. It is worthy of inquiry in +what respects the Alps, properly so called (of Switzerland,) agree with +ours of Lapland, as well as how far, and by what means, they are +susceptible of culture. The descriptions that have been given of them +may be consulted. The Greenland alps would also be worth examining, to +see how far these different countries agree in their native plants, in +varieties of situation, and in plenty of soil, compared with the +proportion of rocks or large stones. Do they all agree in the diminutive +stature of their plants? + +The tranquil existence of the Laplanders answers to Ovid's description +of the golden age, and to the pastoral state as depicted by Virgil. It +recalls the remembrance of the patriarchal life, and the poetical +descriptions of the Elysian fields. + +So many Finlanders crowded about me, that I scarcely knew what to do. +They were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to be nearly blind. Many of +them were perfectly deprived of sight, and ninety-nine out of a hundred +that were so had their eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe any +remedy for this evil, so long as its cause is every where so prevalent. +This consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had the management of +these Finlanders, I would tie them up to the wall and give them fifteen +pair of lashes apiece till they made chimneys to their huts, especially +as they have such plenty of fire-wood. This improvement in the comfort +of their dwellings might surely be accomplished by the authority of the +chief magistrate, for I have not been able to learn any sufficient +reason for their adherence to their old way of building. If people +thirty or forty years of age are thus afflicted, what must become of +them by the time they are seventy? + +The Finlander's scythe is represented in the annexed figure. + +[Illustration] + +The handle is rather above two feet in length, straight for about the +space of a foot from the part where the blade is bound on. Afterwards it +is slightly curved outwards, and then again, towards the apex, in some +degree inwards so as to make a straight line with the base. The top is +thicker than any other part. The blade of the scythe is, like that used +in our country, about a foot and a half long, and an inch and half +broad, very slightly curved. Its back is, like that of our scythes, +thickened on one side. The mower takes hold of the top with his left +hand, so that the back of the scythe is uppermost, but grasps with his +right the part where the above-described curvature ends, so as to be +able to give the edge a turn upwards. As he moves forward, he mows first +on the right, and then on the left, only turning his hands, and not +lifting the scythe, but merely presenting each side of its blade +alternately to the ground. + +On the south-west side of the town, across a small bay, lies a mineral +spring. The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is one of the best +mineral waters I have met with in the north; but it lies very low, +appearing to derive its origin from a stream that runs above, so that +its water comes out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and is covered +with scum. + + +_August 5._ + +Every body at Tornea was continually talking to me of a distemper to +which their horned cattle are subject, and which kills many of them in +the course of the winter, but especially in the spring, when they lose +from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost every year. On walking to +examine the meadow into which they are first turned out to grass, I +found it a bog or marsh, where the Water Hemlock, _Cicuta aquatica_, +(_C. virosa_, _Sp. Pl._ 366. _Fl. Lapp. n._ 103. _Engl. Bot. t._ 479.) +grew in abundance, and had evidently been cropped plentifully by the +animals in feeding. It seemed probable therefore that they eat it most +in the spring, when first turned into this pasture; whence it proves so +much more extensively fatal than in summer, when perhaps they only pick +up a plant here and there. It grows in all the moist meadows which are +mown for hay; consequently the cattle take it likewise in their winter +food, and therefore perish, more or less, during that time of the year. +We learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave it to various kinds of +animals, what violent symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing +appeared to me so interesting, during my visit to Tornea, as to examine +into the cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas be right, the whole +might be prevented by employing a woman for a month to eradicate all the +_Cicuta_; by which this town, small as it is, might save above two +hundred silver dollars. I was informed that the cattle dying from this +cause become so infectious, that they cannot be flayed without great +danger. The persons employed in that business have their hands greatly +swelled by touching the carcase, and several have lost their lives in +consequence. The plant in question, therefore, agrees in qualities with +the _Å’nanthe_, as it does likewise in place of growth and outward +appearance, especially in the _pinnæ_ of its leaves.[9] + +The meadows hereabouts, among the thickets towards the shore of the bay, +afforded me the following plants. + +1. _Veronica_ (_maritima_), with an erect stem, branched in the upper +part, and bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves acute, cordate-oblong, +sharply serrated, the upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, or +four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla tubular, divided two +thirds of its length into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, +ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the lower three-cleft, the middle +segment narrowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two, very long, +awlshaped, situated at the separation of the two lips. Hence the flower +is of the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule heartshaped, narrow +at the upper edge. The flowers are numerous in each spike. + +2. Selleri, (_Apium graveolens_[10],) unless I am much mistaken. The +petals are white, spreading, and acute. The partial umbels are broad. +The general one has very rarely one or two (leaves of an involucrum?). + +3. _Galium parisiense_ (_uliginosum_), with a square, furrowed, +procumbent stem. The leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the +extremity, acute, armed with little prickles as well as the stem. The +flower is not tubular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter are white, as +is also the flower. Four leaves grow together in the lower part of the +stem, but in the upper part six. Under the little umbels of flowers are +either four or two. + +4. _Galium album_ (_boreale_). Stem square, erect, branched, especially +in the upper part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather broader towards +their base, three-nerved, slightly reflexed at the margin. There are two +leaves to each of the lesser umbels. Seeds two, roundish, joined into a +didymous shape, downy. Flower not tubular. + +5. _Cruciata_, if I am not mistaken. (_Galium palustre_, that is, +_Cruciata palustris alba_ of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, +bluntish, narrower towards their base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. +See what I gathered in the woody parts of Lulean Lapland. (This was the +same species, as appears by the _Fl. Lapp._) + +6. _Clymenum parisiense_ (_Lathyrus palustris_). Stem triangular, two of +its angles ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed border. There +are two little oblong pointed angular leaflets at the insertion of the +leaves, which latter are pinnated, ending in a tendril, and composed of +two or three pair of nearly lanceolate _pinnæ_. The flowers are +violet-coloured, three or four on each common stalk. + +7. _Angelica tenuifolia_ (_sylvestris_), which I would define _A. +umbellulis globosis_. The general umbel, though often naked, is commonly +furnished with one, two, or as far as five, very slender leaves; each +partial one has often as many as eight. It is curious that when the +plant blooms vigorously, none of the stalks of the umbel can be seen, +but the flowers form a complete ball, like the Double Guelder-rose +(_Sambucus Opulus_, _flore pleno_,) or the Globe Thistle (_Echinops +Sphærocephalus_). The petals are lanceolate and spreading. Stem +striated, or slightly furrowed. + +8. _Cicuta aquatica_ of Wepfer (_C. virosa_ above mentioned). I am +disposed to refer this plant to _Å’nanthe_, on account of its external +aspect, which is wonderfully like the last-mentioned genus. I must +examine whether their flowers agree. The footstalks are hollow, +inflated, and erect. _Pinnæ_ three, rarely four, pair, of a narrow +lanceolate shape. Those on the stem have from three to seven serratures +each, but the radical ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes the +lowermost serrature, at the lower edge, grows out into a sort of +spurious _pinnula_. The top of the stem bears from one to three umbels; +the general umbel being naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary +leaflet[11]. The partial ones have seven short, narrow, acute leaflets. +The tips of the petals are inflexed. + +9. (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_. Its capsules are rose-coloured, +its flowers yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, and obtuse. The +capsules are about equal to the interstices of the spike, which all +together is about four inches long. + + +_August 6._ + +The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore a day of recreation for both +mind and body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a memorial of King +Charles the XIth's own observation of the sun on the 14th of June, 1694. +The sun was visible on that night till very near twelve, when a small +cloud hid it from the sight. It was however above the horizon[12]. In +winter the sun does not rise above the horizon, but at the solstice it +becomes visible. Could it be seen from the pole? + +The young women in Finland have much more swelling bosoms than those of +Lapland; the latter accord best with the description of the poet, + + "_Quales cruda viro puella servat._" + (_Mart._ lib. 8. ep. 63.) + + +_August 7._ + +The town of Tornea stands on a small island, inhabited close to the +shore on the south-west side. I call it an island, because it is bounded +on the north by a swamp; on the south-east by the great river of Tornea; +on the west and south-west by an arm of the sea, like a large river in +appearance, but so shallow that no vessel can approach within a mile of +the town on that side. This arm of the sea was formerly the _king's +road_, (a channel obliged to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry in +summer time, on the north side, towards the swamp. + +I ascended the steeple from whence his majesty king Charles the Eleventh +saw the sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694. + + +_August 8._ + +Nothing worth notice occurred. + + +_August 9._ + +Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi, where is a large salmon fishery, +for which this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for its meadows, and +Storlionis for its cornfields, but the last yield the greatest profit. + + +_August 10._ + +I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman in Kimi till the 11th. +This day I gathered a sort of Pink, _Caryophyllus_, with reflexed petals +of a purplish colour, divided into many segments almost to their base. +The claws, not contracted at the summit, bear on the upper side, at the +bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This was the beautiful and +fragrant _Dianthus superbus._) Also a _Salix_ with appendages at the +base of its leaves. (What species this was, does not appear.) At the +shore of the great river grew _Alsine repens_, _foliis gramineis_, +(_Stellaria uliginosa_, _Fl. Brit._ 476. _Engl. Bot. t._ 1074.) + +Lying-in women at this place are accustomed to drink brandy seasoned +with pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicating quality, by way of +a narcotic, and partly to bring on the labour pains. The clergyman's +wife told me an infallible method, as she said, to prevent the pains +which often follow childbirth. When the woman's first child is born, and +the umbilical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood is given her to +swallow. This is to be practised at every succeeding labour, and I was +assured that each would be rendered more easy, without any after pains. + +In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, it is customary to have the +dairy superintended by a superior female servant, called the _fäbodar_, +who receives for each cow one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides +a pound of _mesosmör_. (See _v._ 1. 197.) + +To obtain a greater quantity of butter, the milk is set by, either in a +cellar or in a double-walled house, to be kept as cold as possible, for +at least two days, or so long as that it will not stick to the finger. +The milk will not turn sour, but will become very thin and blue, while +the cream collects on the top, of considerable thickness and in great +perfection. The cream being taken off, and put into the churn, often +proves so rich, that after it has been churned but a short time, if the +churn be laid on one side nothing will run out. It is no small labour to +churn such cream. + +Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being warmed before it is +coagulated. If the milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do for this +purpose. Such thin milk as this is not very fit for eating, but the whey +which separates from it in the making of cheese, is by some people made +into _syra_. (See _v._ 1. 243. _n._ 11.) This is done merely by putting +it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, when, if set by for a considerable +time, it will become extremely tough. Most usually however it is boiled, +and then kept for two or three days, when, some new milk being added, it +is boiled up again to the consistence of flummery, and then set by in +some kind of vessel. If it remains for a long while without being +touched, it grows hard, and becomes _mesosmör_. (_v._ 1. 243. _n._ 12.) +The blue milk above mentioned may be boiled like fresh milk, and does +not readily turn sour. + +_Gos-mjölk_, or rather _Gäs-mjölk_, (from the Swedish verb _gäsa_, to +work or ferment,) is made as follows. The butter-milk is set by in a tub +till it begins to ferment, when about a third or fourth part of the +quantity of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed to work once +more. A serum by this time is formed at the bottom, which is drawn off +by means of a cock or tap, in the bottom of the tub, and used +immediately for food. A similar portion of fresh milk is then put to the +remainder, when more whey is, in due time, deposited. This practice is +repeated from time to time for the space of a fortnight, at the end of +which the milk in the tub becomes of a thick consistence, and is +excellent eating. + +_Servet-mjölk_ (Napkin Milk) is made by taking a quantity of sour milk +just beginning to ferment, when bubbles, like hydatids as it were, are +formed between the cream and the milk. This is cut across in various +directions, and the thicker substance taken off and hung up in a napkin, +that the liquid part may drain away. What remains in the napkin acquires +a firm consistence, and is eaten along with fresh sweet cream. + + + + +EAST BOTHLAND. + + +_August 11._ + +I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is +Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian. + +Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._ +1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or +middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small. + +A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards +the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears. + +In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the +_Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), +the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_. +(This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_, +formerly called _Coccognidium_.) + +I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was +almost out of flower. + +The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of +which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral +ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the +anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch +long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three +principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three +valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere +longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb +has the aspect of _Veratrum_. + + +_August 12._ + +The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with +Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_). +The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a +remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the +_Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_ +(Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Chamæmorus_, are here in +abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself +every where in the highway. + +The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally +against upright posts. + +The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of +the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an +oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a +flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not +partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see +_vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this +opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the +smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is +rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke +can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be +frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me +altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a +moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind +and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the +midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their +opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the +door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep +themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only +shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as +owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within +was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other +persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to +me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug. +On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was +actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were +accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours. + +I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast +them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their +fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the +truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the +winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome. + +I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings +have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season, +however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the +above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden +vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made, +stands a table. + +As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the +heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them +for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but +double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such +as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the +dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at +the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their +provisions, distil brandy, &c. + +The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses +in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on +longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve +outwards towards the top. + +This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so +that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper +part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made +bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for +this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time +quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The +sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed +ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf +being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards +carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance +of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones. + +The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in +Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or +depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon +the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned +horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door. + +By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches +high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale +above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499. +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.) + +[Illustration] + +The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the +Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from +the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c, +is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is +flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost +projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage +of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture. +The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions +of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b +to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches +in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of +c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute +angle with the handle. + +The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve +joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See +the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159) + +In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for +boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to +heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which +is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste +to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are +smoke-dried. + +During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable +cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find +themselves sufficiently warm. + +The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi. + +[Illustration] + + a, the base, is three palms long and one broad. + + b, b, handles, each a palm in length. + + c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure. + + e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke. + The distance betwixt e and e is three feet. + + f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage. + + g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two + palms and a half broad. + + h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base + one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet. + + i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the + base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is + introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points + together rather than to separate them. + +It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned +downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is +laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done +alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well +as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep +trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to +m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share +from going too far downward. + +No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over +with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where +rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described. + +It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six +plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons +are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or +ordinary). + +In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_) +_Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a +solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the +Linnæan herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.) + +My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East +Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a +horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or +would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I +arrived, and turned my steps backward. + +The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the +Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their +dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, +their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt +into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon +their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high +collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their +coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife, +though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied +round the knees. + +At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it +was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which +formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in +articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different +appearance from the Lapland females. + +East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. +The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that +they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the +boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water +to pour over the reindeer moss. + +The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season +of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground. + +The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, had already sprung up, and +made the fields quite green. + +I returned back to Tornea in the evening. + + +_August 13._ + +This being a fast day, I heard a sermon in the Finnish tongue, preached +at the church of Tornea. A lawful wife was churched, after her lying-in; +which ceremony was performed in the choir, near the elevated part. The +women in general had either naturally white hair, or hair that had once +been brown, now turned grey. Very few had it red. They wear their hair +rather straight. + +The physiognomy of both men and women is phlegmatic and stupid; the body +clumsy, the complexion bad, and the features destitute of all delicacy +of form or expression. + +The boundary between West Bothnia and East Bothnia is not formed by the +river of Kimi, but by another smaller stream, not far distant, on the +left. + +They catch _Sijk_ (_Salmo Lavaretus_) in a curious manner at this place. +These fish, like the common salmon, swim against the stream, and for +that reason are to be caught only near large falls of the river, which +they are unable to ascend. The fisherman, being furnished with a net +fixed at the end of a long pole, strips himself naked up to the waist, +and walks into the middle of the strongest cascade. To prevent accidents +from the force of the water, a rope is often tied round his waist, the +other end of which is held fast by a friend on shore. Thus they catch +the fish below the fall. + +Seals are taken by various means, being either shot with fire-arms, or +caught in a net. The latter, three or four fathoms high, is made of +hempen cord, as thick as a goose-quill, each mesh being two spans wide. +This net is kept upright in the water by means of oblong floats of wood, +and has no stones at the bottom. Four or five such nets are frequently +tied to the ends of each other, and a large stone is attached to the +last, bound about with willow or osier, which serves to keep the nets +steady. These are set in places where the seals are known to hide +themselves, for those animals do the fishermen great damage, not only by +devouring fish, but by tearing the fishing nets, from the destruction of +which the haunts of the seals are discovered. When a seal comes in the +way of the above-described nets, he either thrusts his head between the +meshes, getting more and more entangled the more he pushes forward, or, +as often happens, he is caught by the foot. + +On a sand-hill near the church at Tornea, grew, in great abundance, +_Gramen spicâ triticeâ maritimum_, (_Triticum radice repente_, _foliis +rigidis_; _Fl. Lapp. n._ 34, which, in the second edition of that work, +p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my intelligent friend Dr. Afzelius, +referred to _Elymus arenarius_, and what Linnæus here says, confirms +this determination.) Its blue leaves looked quite different from all +others, and very handsome. I picked some seeds from the spikes, which +were as large as grains of rye. Hence I was induced to consider whether +this plant might not serve as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such +dry and blowing sands, provided the proper method of managing it could +be discovered, which surely would not be a very difficult task. The +advantage of this would be that, by such means, many sandy tracts, where +nothing else will grow, might be turned to advantage; and the perennial +roots, which no other corn has, would of course save the trouble of +sowing it annually. Perhaps even these roots themselves might, in hard +times, serve for food. + +The tall Finlander Daniel Cajanus, at Stockholm, born in this part of +East Bothland, was the son of a clergyman. At his birth he was no bigger +than the generality of children, and his health was very indifferent, +particularly with regard to his chest, till the age of twelve or fifteen +years. + +I was informed that the inhabitants of this neighbourhood often hear +thunder in the alps during winter. + +In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by a south wind, and mild weather +comes from the north, because of the sea. + +The Laplanders consult several natural objects by way of compass as they +travel. + +1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more copious branches on their southern +side than towards the north. + +2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which bear grass, the northern +whortle-berries. + +3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on the north side, smooth on the +opposite part. + +4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on the north side, with the black +_Usnea_, or filamentous _Lichen_ (_L. jubatus_). + +By such marks as these they are able to find their way through pathless +forests. Have we any guides so certain? + +When these people kill any wild reindeer with fire-arms in summer, they +lodge the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up as they want it for +provision. + +I observed a curious kind of lime-stone burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other +places round the neighbouring sea-coast. + + +_August 14._ + +A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjortot has been assayed by the +Mineral Board, and found to contain forty _per cent._ lead, but only +three or four of silver. + + +_August 15._ + +Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up the Fresh-water Sponge, _Spongia +lacustris_ of Newton, (_S. lacustris_; _Syst. Nat. v._ 1. 1299. Linnæus +here refers to Mr. Newton, the friend of Ray, who found the Sponge in +question in the Norwich river, where it still exists. It is however +denominated in Ray's _Synopsis_, _S. ramosa fluviatilis_, not +_lacustris_. Linnæus quoted from memory.) + + +_August 16._ + +In dissecting the flower of _Artemisia_ (_vulgaris_), I was struck with +its very curious conformation. (This alludes to the want of a limb to +the corolla of the female or marginal florets. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. +244.) + + +_August 17._ + +I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The wind proved contrary. The +islands abounded with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of _Rubus +saxatilis_. On one called Korsholm I met with a sort of _Behen_. Can it +be the same with that which grows in cornfields? Their different parts +are tolerably alike. This grew among the pebbles of the beach. Its calyx +is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem erect. Fruit of one cell. In other +respects it resembles _Behen_. (This was _Cucubalus_ (_Behen_) variety +the third, or γ, _Fl. Lapp. n._ 180. _ed._ 2. 149. _Silene maritima_, +_Fl. Brit._ 468. _Engl. Bot. t._ 957. We have found it remain for many +years unchanged in a garden, propagating itself by seed, though Linnæus +reports that the third year he could not distinguish his from our common +_Silene inflata_, his _Cucubalus Behen_.) + + +Å’CONOMICAL REMARKS CONCERNING THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA. + +The soil is various, sometimes clay, sometimes sand. The corn-fields are +sown every other year, and lie fallow the intermediate seasons, half of +each field lying fallow, while the other half is cultivated. The former +is ploughed during the whole summer, to prevent the growth of grass or +weeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is sown in these open fields only. +Rye is cultivated on land that has recently been cleared of its wood by +burning, but not in any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are sown +together in one crop, and not, as usual in other places, Turnips one +year and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved to treat visitors. Barley +bread is of three different qualities; 1. made of the unmixed barley; 2. +of a mixture of barley and chaff; 3. of chaff without any addition, +except now and then a handfull or two of barley. This last is their +_Spis-bröd_, or household-bread. + +The plough is of the same construction as that used in Westbothland. + +Almost every person, except such as are very poor, catches as many of +the small kind of Herrings, called _StrÅ“mming_ (_Clupea Harengus_ β, +_Membras_ of old authors,) as are necessary for the support of his +family. Those who are not otherwise employed in spring and autumn, catch +them for sale afterwards to such as have not time to take any for +themselves. These fish begin to spawn about the 18th of May, and +continue till about the 16th of June. After the latter period they go +into the small inlets among the rocks, and are taken by means of large +nets till St. Peter's day, June 29th. This is called the large +StrÅ“mming fishery. From St. Peter's day till St. Bartholomew's (Aug. +24th), or even later, they are taken likewise with nets in their usual +haunts. These fish are found with milt as well as roe throughout the +summer. + +One barrel of sour StrÅ“mming is as valuable as two of the salted +sort, the former being greatly preferred. A peasant whose family +consists of a dozen people, takes half a barrel of salt StrÅ“mming for +his whole supply, and this is used to make a kind of soup when boiled +with turnips; but he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour +StrÅ“mming, which is eaten without any preparation, like smoked and +salted meat. If the director of the family is a good Å“conomist, he +will never allow it to be boiled or roasted. They let the fish which is +to make sour StrÅ“mming lie for three or four hours only before they +take out the entrails, after which it is washed in a small coarse sieve, +till most of the blood is removed. It is then salted, in the proportion +of thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each barrel of fish. The fish +destined to make salt StrÅ“mming must be much more carefully washed, +for if the least drop of blood remains it will turn sour. Every barrel +of this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt which is disposed in +layers, alternately with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and salt are +rubbed together with the hands, till a sort of scum rises on the top. + +Another way of preparing salt StrÅ“mming is to make so strong a brine +that the entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not sink. They put in +only so many of the fish as can readily be stirred about in the brine. +If the tub be so full that the brine does not entirely cover the +StrÅ“mming, more is added, and the whole is suffered to remain for +some days. The fish is afterwards gutted in the following manner. A +person puts ten or twelve of them on the thumb of his left hand, in such +a manner that the back of each fish is turned towards the palm. He then +very dexterously loosens the gills with his right hand, pinching out the +gills and intestines at once; which is performed with great quickness. +The fish are then put into a rope basket, and salted as before. When +they have remained thus for a couple of days, they are put into other +baskets, in order that the brine may drain away, and finally are packed +up in new kegs for keeping, without any further salting. A hole is bored +in each tub, just above the lowermost hoop, to draw off the brine, which +is always collecting from the fish, and if permitted to remain, will +cause the whole to turn sour; but the same method is not practised for +the sour StrÅ“mming. This last is in its greatest perfection about St. +James's day (July 25th). + +These people have three meals a day in summer, besides breakfast, and +the sour StrÅ“mming always makes a part of their dinner, as well as of +the preceding refreshment. The fish, after being repeatedly squeezed, is +laid between two slices of bread, and so eaten. After it they take some +sour preparation of milk, without cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit +of cheese, or bread and butter; but they never eat meat after the sour +StrÅ“mming. Their vegetable food consists of cabbage, pease, or +turnips, the first being generally eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten +once a week, except when the cabbage is deficient, and then they supply +its place. Turnips and salt StrÅ“mming are generally eaten in a +morning, in the following manner. When the turnips are boiled nearly +enough, the fish is put to them, but not before, lest it should be +broken to pieces. To this some flour is added; and they drink sour milk +after it. Their supper always consists of flummery, made of barley-meal. +Before they first go out in a morning they eat either bread and butter, +or bread and cheese, but they prefer the former. The mixed bread (made +of corn and chaff) is their ordinary portion; good bread, made entirely +of corn, they seldom or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or for +very extraordinary occasions. Their mixed or household bread, being +baked in cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying four or five such +cakes together upon each other. They are never unprovided with ale in +their cellars, to treat visitors, though their ordinary drink is table +beer. In summer time they always drink _Syra_, (see vol. i. p. 243.) + +The peasants themselves eat but very little of their own mutton, and +chiefly the shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell; scarcely any is +kept in the house but the above parts, with the marrow-bones, which +they break to get at the marrow. The heads and feet of sheep, goats, and +hogs, are salted and dried, being, when wanted, boiled with pease, and +not ill-tasted. The legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often boiled +fresh; the fat which floats on the top being collected and preserved in +a horn or pot, as very useful to grease small ropes, and wheels. The +legs and feet thus boiled are afterwards thrown away, not eaten. The +head and feet of a calf are usually pickled. + +For fire-wood these people use birch-wood. They burn no candles in their +houses. They go to smoke themselves with the Finlanders in their huts. + +The hay is mown here in the same manner as in Upland, and the corn is +managed in the same way as in Smoland. When the season is dry, they +prefer drying the corn in heaps in the open air, as before described; +but in wet weather they have recourse to sheds. The hay is spread out +till dry, and afterwards carried, without being made into cocks. + +They raise as many hops as are wanted for each family, and have perhaps +a few pounds over, for sale. + +Their pales are high, made of pine-wood, and placed sloping. + +The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs made of alder wood, by which +they obtain a great proportion of cream, even two fingers' thick. This +cream is stirred up with the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for +making cheese. Another mode is with butter-milk, to which they add a +sixth part of fresh milk, that has stood one day and been skimmed. This +mixture, being first warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese thus made is +preferred to the former, and often eaten in preference to butter. + +Between Midsummer and St. James's day (July 25th), the whey is +collected, after the cheese is made; which, after boiling for some +hours, is set by to cool. When cold, it is barrelled up for winter use. +Poor people and old women beg or buy it, a small bottle-full at a time. +To one pot of sour milk they add a fourth part of _Syra_; and these +together have the taste of what they term _Filbunke_, which is sour milk +with the cream on, just beginning to ferment, and of which they make +_Servet-mjölk_; (see p. 150.) + +Thick milk (perhaps _Mesosmör_, see vol. i. p. 243,) is often kept in +barrels till winter, as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both serve +for winter provision. + +_Syra_ is so very sour as not to be eatable by itself. When they have no +milk to dilute it with, they add an equal quantity of water to the +_Syra_, and mix the whole with flummery, which mixture they prefer to +small beer. + +Butter is now and then made of goat's milk; but it is very strong, and +quite as white as that made of the milk of the rein-deer. + + +_August 18._ + +On islands near the shore I saw a _Salix_ with leaves like the +cultivated olive. It is a shrub three feet high, but growing in a +spreading manner. Stem grey, with roundish dusky solitary buds, of a +very large size, in proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually larger +(upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, bluntish, on scarcely perceptible +footstalks, furnished with an obtuse longitudinal rib beneath, but no +veins. Their upper surface is green, sprinkled all over with minute +white dots; very slightly channelled, and paler, along the nerve. (This +appears to have been _S. rosmarinifolia_.) + + +_August 19._ + +At the fair of Calix I obtained some information concerning the commerce +of this country, which is very different from that of almost every place +in the world besides, insomuch that I am unable to determine which party +makes his market of the other. The townsman thinks it is himself who +cheats the peasant, but I verily believe he is the party who is cheated. + +1. The general plan of traffic here is bartering one article for +another. + +2. The merchant generally carries his goods home to the peasant's +residence in the country, at whatever distance it may be, or else +conveys them to the fair, from whence the purchaser is to fetch them. + +3. When a townsman sets up trade as a merchant, his principal aim is to +get as many country-people to connect themselves with him as possible, +who are to supply him with their produce. These are termed +_Gield-bonder_, or creditors. + +4. The advantage the peasants have in thus confiding to the merchant the +whole of their goods, is, that the latter pays their taxes for them to +the collector, which must be done either in ready money, or bills of +exchange. + +5. When the merchant receives the goods from the countryman, no price is +fixed upon them between the parties; but when the former returns from +Stockholm, he sets down in his accompt-book nearly the sum for which he +has disposed of the articles there. In this the peasant trusts to the +honour of the merchant, and is paid accordingly. + +6. These prices are not communicated to the countryman immediately, nor +does he know the price of the salt, tobacco, corn, and other articles, +with which the merchant supplies him in return, till they settle +accompts; which does not take place till the end of every year, or +perhaps not so frequently. + +7. As long as a peasant keeps to one merchant, he is allowed credit, and +obtains advances of any money for which he may have occasion, even +although the goods delivered do not amount to the interest of the sum +lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000 dollars. But if he carries any of +his goods to another merchant, he must immediately pay what he owes to +his original correspondent, or suffer a sequestration of his property. + +8. The countryman never brings his own goods to market, unless he +happens to be going that way, in which case he usually takes them with +him, but otherwise it is expected the merchant should fetch them. + +9. When the towns of this part of the country were first built, each had +certain parishes appropriated to it, and these were called the trading +district of each town, in which no person who did not belong to the town +had a right to trade. These exclusive privileges were subsequently +annulled by royal authority, and free markets were established, where +strangers as well as the neighbouring inhabitants were equally permitted +to trade. This open trade has not however taken place at Calix, partly +because the peasants are situated at so great a distance from one +another, and partly because the merchants in the town conceive that such +a plan would ruin them, they being in that case obliged to buy and sell +for ready money. + +10. Here are no free markets, properly speaking, but only _Upbördsmoten_ +(periodical meetings of the collectors of the revenues with the +peasants). At these times the townsmen and the peasants meet together at +the place of rendezvous, as at Calix every year on the 19th of August, +and at Tornea in the depth of winter. + +The inconveniences of the above plan of trade are, + +1. The merchant lays considerable sums fast, with which he might +otherwise extend his commerce. + +2. He has the trouble of carrying his goods to the house of the peasant, +where-ever it may be, up the country, and of bringing what he takes in +exchange from the place of rendezvous to his own house in town. + +3. The consequence of such a plan is, that many a merchant has +outstanding debts to the amount of 100,000 dollars, the greater part of +which he may never get paid. + +The inconveniences to the countryman are, + +1. He runs in debt more than he can ever pay. + +2. The merchant has the advantage of fixing what price he chooses on his +goods. + +3. He is not allowed to take any measures for his own profit. + + * * * * * + +The collar of the shirts, worn by the inhabitants of Finland and East +Bothland in this neighbourhood, resembles ours, their sleeves being more +like those of a woman's shift. + +Young women here commonly wear the bosom open, and have nothing over +their shift, which is gathered round the waist like a petticoat. + +The country of East Bothland is chiefly inhabited about the sea-coast, +and on the banks of rivers. + +An Aurora borealis was seen in the night of the 18th of August, and had +been visible for a week past, so early does it begin here. + +The rowers of the boat in which I pursued my progress had blisters on +their hands caused by pulling at the oars. Their specific was the ladle +with which they had just been stirring the pot where fish was boiling. +This they applied, hot as it was, to the part affected, and the blisters +disappeared. + +What is here called _Taim_ is a sort of salmon, two spans in length at +most, the tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked, but otherwise like +the common kind. (This is probably the _Salmo salar_ in a young state; +and may perhaps be the _Laxunge_, or _Salmo minor_, _vulgari similis_, +Artedi Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica_, ed. 2. 122, +though Linnæus has no allusion there to the _Taim_.) + +As soon as the corn is carried from the field, it is usual to thrash it +slightly, that whatever is loose may come away, and not be lost in the +barn, as also that the coarser part may be separated from the finer. + +The flail is about a yard long, and rather thick. + +The roofs in this part of the country are made of the bark of +birch-trees, not covered over with any turf, but held fast by round +poles, as thick as one's arm, whose upper extremities, alternately +longer and shorter, reach to the ridge, and being bored through, are +fastened to it, in such a manner that their ends project about a span +each way beyond the ridge, crossing each other. Being thicker at their +lower ends, they lie almost close together. Within this there is often a +false roof, like a cieling, covered over with birch-bark and earth; but +this is only when the house is wished to be very warm. + +At the residence of the Governor of the Province at Calix, I saw three +swans, which, having been taken when young, were as tame as domestic +geese, to which these birds are so much alike in every respect, that I +can have no doubt of their belonging to one genus. Their bill is flat, +and black at the extremity, as well as the margins, convex and somewhat +angular in the middle, so far at least that the swelling part terminates +in an angle. The middle is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are +situated; the base flat or quadrangular, with two sinuses pointing +upwards, and pale-coloured. The margin is toothed just like the _Concha +Veneris_ (_Cypræa_). + +A carriage called _Stotting_ is used here, for bringing home wood for +fuel in winter, over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-wood, and +resembles a sledge. + +The length of this machine from a to b is three feet and a half, the +breadth of each beam four inches and a half; their thickness two inches, +except in the middle, at d, where it is three inches and a half, though +in all the other parts of equal dimensions. The transverse bar, c, is +one foot and a half long, three inches and a half broad, and is elevated +four inches above the longitudinal pieces. e, e, are two slender +triangular pieces, two feet in length, and two inches in thickness. f, +f, are about one palm and a half each in length and breadth. h is curved +upwards about two palms and a half out of the straight line. g is two +feet long between the main beams, three inches and a half broad, but +scarcely one in thickness. + +[Illustration] + +The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from the common ones in being +broader, and in the elevation or thickness of each at d. The transverse +beam c, on which the load is laid, is bored through at each end, to +receive the supporting pieces. The slender bars e, e, which may be +termed clavicles, are broadest in the fore part, where they also are +bored through, and fastened with pegs, serving to give stability to the +cross beam c. Two of these carriages are tied together, one behind the +other, through the hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i, is made of +birchen twigs. + +At Calix I found the _Hippuris_ (_vulgaris_) with forked branches; +_Pentaphylloides facie fragariæ_, (_Potentilla rupestris_?); and _Eruca +foliis sinapeos_. (What this was does not appear.) + +I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Calix and Tornea. + +[Illustration] + +The scythe which serves at Cronby in East Bothland, for mowing barley, +is made exactly like the common one of the Finlanders, with the foremost +handle underneath, but, that nothing may be wasted or lost, the machine +b c is fixed to the scythe, b being stuck into the hole at a, and +fastened with a pin through it at the other side. A cord is tied from +the other end c to the handle d, before the scythe is used. The lower, +or shortest, bar of this appendage scarcely extends beyond the extremity +of the scythe at f. Its position is regulated by a cord, according to +the inclination of the blade f g. + +The length of the main handle of the scythe, e f, is two ells. + + +_August 31._ + +I collected and described various species of _Fungi_. + +(Here follow descriptions or characters of several species of +_Agaricus_, _Boletus_ and _Hydnum_, given more correctly in the _Flora +Lapponica_.) + + +_September 3._ + +I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgomaster Geyer Svanberg, who was +born the preceding night, or rather between one and two in the morning. +He was named Geyer. + +Mr. Svanberg told me the (_Cotyledon_) _Umbilicus Veneris_ grew on a hill +called _Karvick_, near Wallivari to the north. (This probably was not +confirmed, as the plant does not occur in _Flo. Suecica_.) + + +_September 4._ + +I went to Biorknas, in order to be instructed in the art of assaying. + + +_September 9._ + +I examined the fish called in West Bothland _Natting_, (_Petromyzon +fluviatilis._) Its upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling two teeth. +The lower has seven small teeth, of which the two outermost are +largest. Mouth in the under side of the head, gaping, oval, rather +compressed. There are seven openings in a row behind the eyes, gradually +larger as they recede from thence. The fins have no visible rays, but +merely streaks, yet they are not adipose, or fat, fins. There is a +prominent orifice on the top of the head. The _pericardium_ is +cartilaginous. The fish is a span long. Its hind fin triangular. + +These (lampreys) are caught at this time of the year, when the nights +grow dark, in hollow timbers of a conical shape, resembling the wicker +baskets used for catching eels. The entrance is made smooth and even. +These timbers are laid, at the depth of two ells, in the river, and kept +down with stones, the opening being turned to meet the current. + +Some such traps are made of willow-twigs not bigger than goose-quills, +platted close together into the same shape, and are two ells in length. + +I was told that the Laplanders are accustomed to preserve blood of the +reindeer in rennet-bags through the winter till spring, when they boil +it with water, and drink it. + +Tar is obtained in the following manner. A cavity, of an inversely +conical shape, is dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn timbers, nine +ells in length each, so as to form a sort of funnel. This again is lined +with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the tar draining away into the +ground between the timbers. At the bottom is another funnel or vessel of +wood to receive the tar, which runs from thence into a trough, closed on +all sides, except a hole where the point of the said funnel is inserted, +and another at the extremity, closed with a moveable plug, from which +the tar is received into vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut to +pieces, are placed upright in the large funnel above, so as to leave a +convexity over the bottom, and the whole being covered with turf is set +on fire, against the wind. Care is taken, by varying the admission of +air, to prevent its burning too fast, or unequally; and by this means +they procure both tar and charcoal. + + +_September 14._ + +I took my leave of Biorknas. The weather was cold and rainy. Such of the +forest trees as are of a deciduous nature had now assumed a pallid hue, +in consequence of the cold nights; but the evergreens, with their +needle-shaped leaves, standing among them, seemed to defy the cold, and +were rendered conspicuous by their dark-green colour. The high wind +scattered the withered leaves over my path. How useful are the usual +storms of autumn to disperse ripe seeds, and plant colonies far from the +parent trees! The hills appeared sandy; and such places as had been +burnt were now perfectly white with Reindeer Moss, (_Lichen +rangiferinus_,) which grew so close together, as hardly to leave any +room for the Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads like the +Iceland Moss, (_Lichen islandicus._) + +Some part of the road consisted of a reddish-brown earth, such as I had +observed in the early part of my journey near UmÅ“a. I was told that it +was excellent for red paint. At length I reached Zingis, and in the +evening arrived at Tornea, entirely wet through. + + +_September 15._ + +I observed how they manage their corn at this season. They have no barns +to lay it into, but it is placed between poles, all the ears directed to +one side, in stacks two or three ells long, and very high. If the corn +be not quite dry, it is first spread abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a +kiln, and thrashed on a floor. How liable must it be to take fire, and +how much must unavoidably be spilt in consequence of such management! + +I received 100 dollars, of copper-money, from the chief clergyman. + +I learned here that Tansy (_Tanacetum vulgare_) and Mugwort (_Artemisia +vulgaris_) are used to make a fomentation or bath, wonderfully useful +for women in labour, who are accustomed to sit over the steam of these +herbs. I had observed the people at every house drying Tansy, but could +meet with nobody who would inform me to what use it was destined. + + +_September 16._ + +This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. There are six ferries between +these two places, over the river Kokama, which passes near Kimi. Two +miles from hence are the boundaries of East and West Bothnia. Lime-stone +attracted my notice all the way along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow +on the outside, whitish within. + + +_September 17._ + +I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. The weather was unfavourable, for +it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the evening at the +posthouse of Jö. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with +marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of +grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch, +intermixed with the _acifoliæ_ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these +last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as +to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become +pale, but the _Sorbus_ (Mountain ash, _Pyrus aucuparia_, _Fl. Brit._) +had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (_Pedicularis_) +_Sceptrum Carolinum_ appeared every where by the roadside. _Thalictrum_ +(_flavum_) and _Scutellaria_ (_galericulata_) were less frequent, but +Golden-rod (_Solidago Virga aurea_), _Trollius_ (_europæus_), (_Spiræa_) +_Ulmaria_, and _Epilobium_ (_palustre_?) were plentiful, as was the +sweet _Milium_ (_effusum_), with the _Gramen ramosum_ (probably _Aira +cæspitosa_.) + +The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke, +and the tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious +of warmth than careful of their eyesight. + +The same sort of plough is used here as at Kimi. + +I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand. +Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular +stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately +pinnate, (_Pisum maritimum_). + +Near Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a +hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven +pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood +a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of +the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so +as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught, +should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any +further. + +The peasants of this upper part of East Bothnia, children of darkness in +their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing +to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are +white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in +front.--Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected +with a smell of sour fish, like sour StrÅ“mming, for they are kept very +dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish. + +Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea +Wheat-grass, (_Elymus arenarius._ See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. _n._ 34.) + + +_September 18._ + +I travelled from Jö to Ulaborg. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of +which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each +being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an +inverted position, upon them, the whole was sheltered from wet. The +barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that +the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round. +On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put, +as a kind of covering. + +[Illustration] + +The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already +described. + +(The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings, +at which Linnæus was so indignant.) + +[Illustration] + +Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from the shore, +which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so +firm as to serve for the construction of ovens. At one spot, where the +river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement, +which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of +iron. The stones in general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break +easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron. +Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest. + +A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the +rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five +fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or +six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of +the boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel being raised up, or +hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the +importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this +the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places. +Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished +with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the +highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against +stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may +go in safety. + +One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, (_Salmo Lavaretus_, or +Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a considerable +length, the meshes very small. There are loop-holes at the top, large +enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are +sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at +the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near +the sandy shore. + +[Illustration] + +Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the +strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net, +except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and +depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle +of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so +that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on +each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the +force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never +escape, but is taken out at leisure. + +[Illustration] + +Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of +the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a +small island, where there is a sawing-mill. + +In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made +to the life. He is actually buried here[14]. This church is one of the +longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. +The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as +large as Lund. + + +_September 19._ + +After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here +are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems +to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly +jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head +against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters +of the sketch.) + +[Illustration] + +I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Limingo, more spacious +than all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rödbeck together. (Tuneld says +in his Geography, that the meadows of Limingo, and cornfields of the +neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their +great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with +Horsetail (_Equisetum fluviatile_), and especially with Reed, _Arundo_ +(_Phragmites_), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a +forest. The Water Hemlock, _Cicutaria aquatica_, _Cicuta virosa_; (see +p. 136), was very plentiful by the road-side. This led me to inquire +whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the +affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any +advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar +particulars to what I had heard at Tornea. + +Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_) grew all the way by the road, as well as +_Lenticula_ (_Lemna_ or Duck-weed), and the _Lichenoides_ of which +powder is made was observable on the trees. (_Lichen prunastri_, said to +have been used for hair-powder.) + +The meadow of Limingo is two miles in length. The best part of the +land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned +cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat +impaired by tumps (of _Carex cæspitosa_). If but a third part of it were +cultivated, according to the Scanian mode of husbandry, it would be of +more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh +might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was +feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss +(_Sphagnum palustre_), which would render it altogether unprofitable. + +About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of +them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use +more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these +cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by +several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (_Iris Pseud'acorus_) was +mixed with the hay. + +The milk-strainers are made of straw, and not very clean. + + +_September 20._ + +Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of +Tornea, standing on a peninsula by the sea. + +In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to +have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them, +whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to +intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or +perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the +derangement. + +About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in +labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called _Hittatran_, or Casual +Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such +seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among +the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are +consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, +except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought +to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in +such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing +on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For +after-pains they swallow, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood from the +umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every +subsequent one. + +Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to +catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the +bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one +of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be +attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not +more wonderful than many sympathies upon record. + +There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called _Muicu_. +Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says that he has seen at +this place a fish named _Muicu_, which is no other than the _Blikta_, +taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be +I know not, but I saw plainly that this _Muicu_ is the _Small Sijk_ +(_Salmo Albula_), such as is found in Smoland. + +The following figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The +share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is +four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends +of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them +from the shoulders of the animal, and supports them. + +[Illustration] + + +_September 21._ + +Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Gambla +Carleby. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at +Cronby. + +I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships +are able to load and unload close to the quay. + + +_September 22._ + +Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town of New Carleby, which is +nearly as big as Wexiö. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers, +placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a +handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a +quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely +come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined +to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel. + +The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made +of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small +pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley. + +_Rotkäl_ (_Brassica oleracea_ κ, Sp. Pl. 932, _Napo brassica_, or +Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given +with the liquor to the cattle. + +The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of +grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black +ribband in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the +whip slung at their back. + +[Illustration] + +To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several +projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) +which is rolled between their hands. + +In the evening of this day I arrived at Wasa. + + +_September 23._ + +I went to church at Wasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the +south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings. +This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the +governor. + +Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed +copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation +had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a +glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The +sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. I do not +indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems +to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit. + +The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and +Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linnæus here +meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.) + +This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church. +They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad +coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down. + + +_September 24._ + +In my way from New Carleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I +had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before +seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The +latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a +girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is +kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding +forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure. + +[Illustration] + +The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The +soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it; the upper leathers +made of tanned seal-skin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A +representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.) + +_Hypericum_ (_perforatum_), _Scrophularia_ (_nodosa_), _Bidens_ +(_cernua_?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey. +The three species of _Ribes_ (_rubrum_, _alpinum_ and _nigrum_,) were in +prodigious abundance. + + +_September 25._ + +At sun-rise I took my departure from Wasa. The pines in the forest were +stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing +but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of +three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the +breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its +being ... (here is a word not to be decyphered). The trees are left +standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close +to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The +heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are +left to rot on the ground. + +Three miles below Wasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (_Solanum +Dulcamara_). In the town itself I had noticed (_Leonurus_) _Cardiaca_, +and Henbane (_Hyoscyamus niger_). Near the shore grew _Salix oleæfolia_ +with its berries, _(Hippophaë rhamnoides_). It is known by the name of +_Finnbær_ or _Surbær_, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is +situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines +long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four +lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous +matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse, +attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this +cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a +longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries +bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather +too acid. + + +_September 26._ + +I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but before coming to that place, +noticed at Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly +been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was +so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of _Carex +cæspitosa_) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded +almost over one another, and were overgrown by _Polytrichum_ +(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of +them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their +way to any food between the tumps. + +In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears. +These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree, +_Tilia europæa_,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when +stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net +is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set +up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to +the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on +all sides. + + +_September 27._ + +This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood +on a table, and its end being made so as to slide up and down, the wort +is easily poured out. + +Below the town of Christina, I first found the _Lathyrus viciæformis_ +(_L. palustris_), and Water Cresses, (_Sisymbrium Nasturtium_); also +_Campanula persicifolia_ and (_Sedum_) _Telephium_. + + +_September 28._ + +I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from +the Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a +highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the +town of Umoea and Granoen. (See _v._ 1. 141.) + +Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix +fÅ“mina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-fÅ“mina_?) + +The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass +here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes +insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the +greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_ +here first re-appeared after my long absence. + +N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with +blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of +the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above +indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora +Suecica_, be suspected that Linnæus had, in these two paragraphs, +written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.) + +The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful; +and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me +great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round +the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_, +and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipulæ_) and striated flowers, +(_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted +me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for +cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows +copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head. +The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_ +(probably _Scirpus maritimus_). + +The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so +near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was +frequently visible through the forests. + + +_September 29._ + +I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day. + +When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, +for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards +the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach. + +The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the +crows (_Corvus Cornix_), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds +seek the marshy country in the evening, before it comes on. + +Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them +in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion. + +On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so +hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the +people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, +were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that +of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat +stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half +naked. + +Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, +as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry +across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, +between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a +sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, +others reddish-purple. + +In the evening I arrived at the town of Abo, which is as large as +Orebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often +burnt down by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, +might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these +stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay +loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain +the heat. + + +_September 30._ + +The Finnish liquor called _Lura_ is prepared like other beer, except not +being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence +its purgative quality from the iron. + +Here I saw a flying squirrel (_Sciurus volans_) from Tavasthia. + +The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees +and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four +prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal _Mink_. (This seems to +be _Viverra Lutreola_, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.) + +A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands +has taken notice. (See _v._ 1. 43, _note_.) It is older than that of +Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the +burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it +does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, +containing iron here and there, with small quantities of pyrites. The +mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city. + +The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together. + + +_October 5._ + +I departed from Abo. The corn-fields of Finland are beautiful, and +resemble those of East Gothland in their wide extent and level surface. + +There are regular ferry boats at stated times to take passengers to the +isle of Aland. + + +_October 6._ + +I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, where I was to go on board the +ferry-boat. The shore is a red rock. Passed over to the island of Aland, +the whole of which consists of the same kind of red rock. The palace of +Castelholm, at present falling fast into ruins, is built of this sort of +stone. + +The women use for dyeing a sort of rock _Lichenoides_, of a brown +stercoraceous colour, (perhaps _Lichen stygius_, or _omphalodes_,) which +they boil in water with alum. But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed +without alum. Some add a little Arnotto (_Bixa Orelana_). + +Shoes like short half-boots are worn here made of seal-skin. + + +_October 7._ + +In the evening of this day I passed over the plain of Aland. There were +abundance of Finn-berries (_Hippophaë rhamnoides_) by the road. + + +_October 8._ + +I sailed over the sea of Aland. + + +_October 9._ + +Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been opened. About the church are +sundry sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the small surrounding hills, +as well as at Musangen, very fine and lofty plants of juniper +resembling cypresses, the branches erect and close, assuming a conical +or pyramidal figure. + + +_October 10._ + +About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived safe at Upsal. + +To the Maker and Preserver of all things be praise, honour and glory for +ever! + + * * * * * + +Some observations relative to the Seal, _Phoca vitulina_. + +There are two kinds (or varieties) of this animal. The _Gră Siăl_ (Grey +Seal) is the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and slightly clouded on +the back. The _Wikare Siăl_ (Creek Seal) is smaller, black on the back, +and very cloudy or wavy at the sides. Otherwise there is no difference +between them. + +The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, being covered with white hair +about an inch long, which it loses in four or five weeks, and becomes +quite black. At the same period it acquires more activity and shyness +than at first. The upper fore teeth are six, very small, resembling +those of a dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at their outer edge, as +in the dog, and furnished with a little notch at their base. Grinders +six. Whiskers remarkably large. There are two nipples a little below the +navel, which the female has a power of drawing in, so as to leave holes +large enough to admit the finger. She lets them out at pleasure to her +young one. + +The seal lies on its back while sleeping, either on the ice or on rocks. +They couple soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21; and the +grey seal brings forth its young in January, the creek seal in February. +The male runs round and round the female many times, with a yelping +noise, being very careful not to be observed. + +When the female has young, the male is very savage, and continually +attends to protect her. She brings forth but one at a birth, which at +first is dull and stupid, easily caught. If thrown into the water, +however, he exerts himself with some activity, and returns to the shore, +not having as yet acquired any shyness. But by the time all his first +coat of white hair is fallen off, he begins to be timid. The growth of +the young seals is very rapid. + +The seal, when out of the water, can hardly distinguish objects at half +a quarter of a mile's distance at the utmost. But in foggy and dull +weather he sees better than in sunshine. He never remains in the water +during moon-light nights. His hearing is acute though he has no external +ears, and his scent is also very quick. He can remain under water for +nearly half a quarter of an hour; but by that time he must, at the peril +of his life, come to the surface to breathe, which he often does within +a fathom of the shore, and he afterwards spouts out water. + +Nets for catching seals are set right out into the sea, from some +promontory, to the distance of twenty fathoms. These are examined every +morning, to see what is caught. They are chiefly set from St. +Bartholomew (August 24), when the moon is in her wane, till over St. +Matthew's day, September 21. + +Grey seals are hunted in winter till Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, +often in great numbers, close to a hole which they have made in it. When +they come out of the water by this opening upon the surface of the ice, +the water they bring with them freezes about its margin, so that in time +the edges become elevated, and it looks like a well. If it should freeze +over, they travel to the south-west, till they can get at water, always +proceeding straight forward, even though they meet with mountains in +their way; and they return in the same direct line back again. The +hunters go with large poles, carefully approaching the creek seal till +they get near enough to fire at him before he is aware. The grey seal +is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon. + +The seals are able to penetrate through the ice from beneath, lying on +their backs under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot make their way +into it from above. + +END OF THE TOUR. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o I. + + + + +A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, + + Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in the Year 1732, at the + Expense of the Royal Academy (of Upsal); by CHARLES LINNÆUS, Student + of Physic and of Natural History, as drawn up by Himself to lay + before the said Academy. + + +The Royal Academy of Sciences having, last Spring, permitted my humble +memorial to be laid before them, respecting the project of a journey to +Lapland, with a view to the improvement of natural history, and having +honoured the same with their approbation, appointing me to undertake +the expedition. I feel it my duty, after having accomplished my journey, +most respectfully to present to the Academy a narrative thereof. + +For the sake of brevity and clearness I shall divide my subject into +three parts. + +1st, A journal of my tour. + +2d, The expenses incurred. + +3d, The advantages likely to accrue. + + + + +I. THE JOURNAL. + + +_May 12, 1732._ + +Having received my instructions from the Royal Academy of Sciences, with +a passport from the Government, and having prepared every thing +necessary for my journey, I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, from +this place (Upsal), carrying with me nothing but what was absolutely +necessary, in order that I might not be detained or interrupted, in case +of not being able always to procure a horse, but might occasionally +pursue my way on foot. As the summer seemed to be fast advancing, I +thought it not advisable to lose time by the way, nor to stray far from +the road, in the early part of the tour, but only to observe attentively +what readily presented itself, that I might reach Lapland with all +possible dispatch. + + +_May 13._ + +By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, where I was obliged to stay all +that day, for it was evening before I received from the governor of the +province (of Gestrickland) the requisite passport, which was accompanied +by orders to all the public officers in his district to give me all +requisite assistance to penetrate, if possible, into Asila Lapmark. + + +_May 14._ + +Owing to the above delay, and my attending morning service the next day +at Gefle church, I could not quit that place till one o'clock. +Proceeding without stopping to Hudwickswald, I there merely spoke a few +words to Mr. Broman the clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby Knylen, +the highest mountain in Medelpad, from whence I went to Sundswall, and +further. In my way I examined a cave formed by nature in a very hard +rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for thieves and highwaymen. + +I was so unfortunate, in my journey through Medelpad, as not to meet +with a single horse that did not tumble with me several times, in +consequence of which I was at one time so severely hurt as to be +scarcely able to remount. Having already collected together a number of +stones and minerals, which were no less burthensome than unnecessary to +carry along with me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I left these +incumbrances. I did not, however, stay there above two hours. + + +_May 20._ + +At length I reached the famous mountain of Skula in Angermanland, at the +very top of which is a large grotto, so neatly formed by nature that +art could scarcely have excelled it. This grotto was represented to me +as quite inaccessible, and it was said that not more than two or three +persons had ever been there; nor was it without great difficulty that I +prevailed on two men to accompany me, every body deeming the project +impracticable. As we climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept forwards, +sometimes slid back again. Now we mounted a considerable way by catching +hold of branches and roots of trees, and then, meeting with steep +inaccessible rocks, were obliged to turn back. After following one of my +guides for about two hours, I thought the other seemed to make more +progress; which induced me to go after the latter. I was scarcely got +two ells out of my former path, than the man whose track I had left +loosened a large stone with his foot, which fell on the very spot I had +quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded by fire and smoke, +and should certainly, but for the protecting hand of Providence, have +been crushed to pieces. We reached the grotto at length, after much +labour and trouble, and descended the mountain with much greater +facility. Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which grew close to the +rocks, we slid down upon them, dragging them after us down the +precipices. + + +_May 23._ + +I at length, after twelve days journey, reached Umoea. + +It had originally been my design to go to Asila Lapmark, in order to +observe what plants are able to endure the very hard winters of that +region, but I was obliged to change my plan. The summer would not have +been long enough, nor my stock of money sufficient to enable me to reach +that most northern part of the country, where the severity of the +climate is augmented by the cold north wind and the vast snowy +mountains. I applied, therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of Umoea, +for a passport to the nearer parts of Lapland, which was immediately +granted. This gentleman showed the greatest readiness to befriend me, +and appeared to take much interest in the success of my undertaking. He +gave such orders as might cause the public officers in Lapland to lay no +obstacles in my way, but rather to assist me by every means in their +power. He himself gave me much curious information, and showed me his +own garden, that I might observe what plants would stand the winter +here: concluding by expressing, in the most flattering terms, his +approbation of my appointment. + + +_May 25._ + +The following morning I set out on my way towards Lapmark. Leaving the +highway, I came to one of the most unpleasant roads I ever travelled. It +was covered with stones, betwixt which were thick entangled roots of +trees, and among them were deep holes full of water. The whole ground +was a marsh, which the frost was at this time just about quitting. Large +pine-trees, that had been blown down in the course of the stormy winter, +frequently crossed my path; and the more flexible birches, weighed down +by the snow, interrupted my course on all sides. I frequently came to +such steep heathy places that my horse could scarcely climb or descend +them, and in the bottoms between them were marshy tracts, with rivulets +destitute of bridges, so that my beast slipped down several times; and +as I passed the streams, the water reached up to my saddle. I then +regretted, what I had in the former part of my journey so much detested, +travelling on the high-way on these stumbling horses, and would rather +have descended the steepest hill in Angermannia than have chosen the +present road, for at every step the horse took, I thought he would have +fallen. + +In the evening of + + +_May 28,_ + +however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven +miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having +reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night. + + +_May 29._ + +The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as +Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five +miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve. + + +_May 30._ + +Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the +minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to +wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me +to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had +made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might +meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming +unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast. +Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence +of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that +account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the +colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one +of the native Laplanders. + + +_May 31._ + +The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with +me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of +provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh +of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I +well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals +or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our +boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my +own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise. + + +_June 1._ + +Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander, +we left our boat on the shore of the river, and went in search of this +man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or +enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met, +however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other +resided. + +Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here +in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future +guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had +met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However, +about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of +me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and +fresh water. + +I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to +a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not +dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had +to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite destitute of +provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing +but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, +nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their +reindeer. + + +_June 2._ + +On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to +proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by +falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further, +which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After +walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a +mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our +knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we +often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in +vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a +little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former, +and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken +than to pass this place, especially as the elements were all adverse, +for it blowed and rained violently. + + +_June 3._ + +By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we +still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could +proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and +having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of +taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me +on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the +gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to +sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had +set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could +not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in +case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however, +he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair +hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely +think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this +woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou +poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest +thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger +here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to +go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish, +without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what +she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which +she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed +heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether, +and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This +woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and +that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke +of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have +undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now +not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path, +whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In +traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, +and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer +cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman +refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My +hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was +induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling +her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it +not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the +most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion, +and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the +course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth, +undertaken more than it was possible to perform. + +We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great +velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to +an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the +boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found +ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon +landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet +and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea +cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or +_Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_, +see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island +to the shore. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out +of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the +river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist, +who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to +Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the +8th of June arrived at Umoea. + + +_June 12._ + +Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived +after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as +the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the +principal clergyman of the place. + + +_June 19._ + +I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring +coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however +I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I +was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of +reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the +horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at +Tornea. + + +_June 25._ + +Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I +continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights, +having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are +excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which +are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of +their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the passengers are not +careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and +three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I +received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions +sufficient to last me for eight days. + + +_July 6._ + +After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended +_Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is +indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who +served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his +assistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on +these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I +willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant +for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part +of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted +less to assist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient +incumbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into +the bargain. + +On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here +were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger +and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor +any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to +shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the +mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the +Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young +along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering +influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in +the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun +never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by +climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could +see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the grass +and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all +nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these +vegetable rarities, while the time passed unperceived away, and my +interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles +to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any +rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded +therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes passing along their +precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and +for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening +of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was +at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception, +and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between. +Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight +hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the +milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for +my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in +his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to +have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a +mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon. + +After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I +steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea, +proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the +country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me +to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that +side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had +no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me, +accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy +crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the +cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer +skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more +favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence +the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very +delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding +its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest +trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps, +it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our +calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance. +At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so +stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings +than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and +beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the +tall grass reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild +fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps, +seemed to refresh me both in mind and body. + +Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the +house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a +boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the +celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find nobody +willing to venture near it. + +We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind +proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with +rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions, +zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied +every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr. +Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception. + +Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind +exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place +from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour +for that purpose. + +On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains, +with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in +perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a +stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small +distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so, +thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined. +Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a +considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a +second time, and I determined never to go there again without some +protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked +attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the +subject. + +On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was +employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and +exhaustion, the ground we had to pass over being so extremely steep as +well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had +sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves. + +From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were +described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the +course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps +was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and +how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst +evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were +enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes +rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very +circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This +fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment, +for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive +heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but +it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting +snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the +inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their +huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable +distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this +inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several +days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The +rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread, +and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of +costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to +return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the +course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow, +without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy +crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable +to assist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so +hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not +in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able +to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh +in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of +my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before. + +At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without +tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential +support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of +it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I +remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards +descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north +of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our +voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to +overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved +ourselves, and it being night, nobody heard our cries for assistance. + +The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner +of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea. + +Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from +thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I +entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I +found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles +back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town +of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district, +and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a +boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as +the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn, +and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to +see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick +passage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as +I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to +enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I +considered that in a new country there is always something new to be +seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford +but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination, +at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea +voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, +had long been waiting for a fair wind. + +I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and +Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina, +Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I +then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on +the 10th of October reached Upsal. + +The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 +English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined. + + Miles. + From Upsal to Umoea 60 + Umoea to Lycksele 12 + Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25 + From thence again to Umoea 37 + From Umoea to Pithoea 22 + Pithoea to Longoen 3 + Back again to Pithoea 3 + From thence to Lulea 5 + Lulea to Quickjock 33 + Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25 + From thence to the Norway coast 10 + Excursion by sea, and back again, 14 + From Norway to Caitum 40 + From Caitum to Quickjock 40 + Quickjock to Tornea 47 + Tornea to Kimi 5 + From hence to Maxaniemi 5 + Maxaniemi to Calix 9 + Calix to Kengis 32 + Kengis to Jonesvando 40 + Jonesvando to Tornea 26 + Tornea to Abo 100 + Abo to Upsal 40 + ----- + 633 + +(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the +advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this +"brief narrative," are not found in the manuscript.) + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o II. + + +The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a +view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was +translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly +communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany +the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It +is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication +I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the +work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course +of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his +inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a +foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native +Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every +part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of +my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take +advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual +conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged +to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, +because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use." + +The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of +observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not +only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least +taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and +unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to +English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What +we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank +amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one +of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it. + + * * * * * + +Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which +describes a separate line of elevation. + +1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjäll_), we first arrive at the +line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had +previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, +covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy +object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, +before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. +With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, +&c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of +_Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and +_Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ +(Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the +rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. +The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual +snow, and the mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's thermometer +(37-1/2 of Fahrenheit). + +2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so +tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their +branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_, +_Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a +very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows +_Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the +berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. +_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), +soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when +the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, +and the mean temperature about 2,°5 of Celsius (36-1/2 of Fahrenheit.) A +little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual +snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which +live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for +instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips +grow large enough to be worth cultivating. + +3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its +short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem +prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light +green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of +vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be +entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, +where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is +2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much +wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, +_Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little +before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus +Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any +fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, +_Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the +reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. +Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, +_Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The +drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago +frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the +utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is +found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases. + +4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjäll_ (Alps). Near +rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, +consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament +to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking +_Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper +bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about. +Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda +cærulea_ and _Trientalis europæa_. The more boggy ground is decorated +with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis +lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has +the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris +crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet +of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no +higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamæmorus_ still ripen here, +but not at a greater degree of elevation. + +5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not +above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is +of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier +situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed +with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea +lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant +spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, +produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus +leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places +_Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are +observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of +elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large +as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary +of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The +Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for +their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean +temperature is about +1° of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit). + +6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. +The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as +_Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and +_hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed +to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana +tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the +yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no +reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas +octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of +perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow. + +7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the +ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are +here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at +the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, +and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some +few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy +brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, +quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga +stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and +_glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene +acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is ++0,°4 of Celsius, (32-3/4 of Fahrenheit). + +8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much +diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other +similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock +rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet +above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some +umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophoræ_), &c., still occur in the crevices of +perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of +perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the +mean temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The +Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits +this elevated spot. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Abo, ii. 230. + _Acer platanoides_, ii. 227. + Aconite, yellow, i. 36. + _Aconitum lycoctonum_, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. 79, 123, 277. + Adam and Eve, i. 28. + _Adoxa moschatellina_, i. 37. + _Agaricus_, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. 158. + _Agrostis arundinacea_, ii. 228. + ---- _rubra_, ii. 91. + Agues, i. 29, 180. + _Aira alpina_, ii. 279. + Aland, ii. 233. + _Alca Torda_, i. 64, 65. + Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277. + _Alnus incana_, ii. 277. + _Alopecurus geniculatus_, ii. 92. + Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. 272. + _Amanita_, ii. 158. + Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50-58. + _Anas arctica_, i. 65. + _Andromeda cærulea_, i. 272. ii. 278. + ---- _hypnoides_, i. 320. ii. 280. + ---- _polifolia_, i. 23, 188, 189. + ---- _tetragona_, ii. 28, 29, 280. + _Anemone Hepatica_, i. 11, 32. ii. 228. + ---- _ranunculoides_, i. 11. + ---- _vernalis_, i. 15. + _Angelica Archangelica_, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 171, 316. ii. 76. + Angermanland, i. 48. + Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83. + _Anthericum calyculatum_, i. 257. + _Apis terrestris_, i. 159. + Apple-trees, i. 61. + _Arabis thaliana_, i. 33. + _Aranea palustris_, } + ---- _riparia_, } i. 258. + _Arbutus alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _Uva ursi_, i. 7, 23, 250. + _Ardea cinerea_, ii. 255. + _Arena Glarea_, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166. + ---- _mobilis_, i. 16. + _Artemisia vulgaris_, ii. 201. + _Arum_, i. 200. + _Arundo Calamagrostis_, ii. 90. + ---- _Phragmites_, ii. 275. + Ash, i. 68. + Aspen, i. 77, 179. + _Aspidium Filix-fÅ“mina_, ii. 227. + _Asplenium Trichomanes_, i. 55. + _Astragalus alpinus_, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. 2. + ---- _leontinus_, ii. 279. + ---- _montanus_, ii. 279. + _Azalea lapponica_, i. 299. ii. 279. + ---- _procumbens_, i. 285. ii. 279. + + + B. + + _Bannisteria._ See _Diapensia_. + Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77. + ---- pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + ---- willow used for tanning, i. 80. + ---- birch used for tanning, i. 249. + Barley, i. 57, 67, 73. + _Bartramia fontana_, i. 181-184. + ---- _pomiformis_, i. 13, 38. + _Bartsia alpina_, ii. 119. + Bears, ii. 215, 275. + Beaver, i. 88-91. + Beech, i. 68. + _Betula alba_, i. 48. + ---- _incana_, i. 48. ii. 277. + ---- _nana_, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50, 278, 279. + _Bicornes_, i. 22. + Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208. + Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. 276. + ---- dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139. + Bird-traps, i. 179. + _Bixa Orelana_, ii. 233. + Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217. + Boat, Lapland, i. 98. + Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167. + _Boletus igniarius_, used as a pincushion, i. 85. + ---- _suaveolens_, employed as a perfume, i. 151. + Bothland, East, ii. 151-166, 201-232. + Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201. + Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. 147. + _Brassica oleracea_, ii. 219. + Bream, i. 27. + _Bryum bimum_, i. 185. + ---- _pomiforme_, i. 13. + Buck-bean, i. 86, 200. + Buck-wheat, i. 166. + Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282. + Burnet, i. 220. + Butter, i. 110. + _Byssus_, i. 84, 156. + ---- _cryptarum_, i. 47, 55. + ---- _flos aquæ_, i. 4. + ---- _Jolithus_, i. 26. + ---- red, i. 26. + + + C. + + _Calla palustris_, i. 200, 245, 350. + _Callitriche autumnalis_, i. 62. + ---- _verna_, i. 62. + _Caltha palustris_, i. 5, 68. + _Cameraria_, i. 176. + _Campaniformes_, i. 10. + _Campanula persicifolia_, ii. 226. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, i. 20, 37. + ---- _uniflora_, ii. 280. + _Canis Vulpes_, i. 71. + Caper, Swedish, i. 5. + _Carex_, i. 5, 167. + ---- _cæspitosa_, ii. 225. + ---- _globularis_, ii. 275. + ---- _panicea_, ii. 98. + ---- _sylvatica_, i. 276. ii. 21, 46. + ---- _ustulata_, ii. 279. + Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. 215. + Cataract of Elf-Carleby, i. 12. + Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52. + Chaff, eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + _Chamædaphne_, i. 188. + Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363. + _Charadrius Hiaticula_, i. 93, 323. + Charr, i. 128. ii. 277. + Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197. + Cherries, i. 62. + _Chrysomela graminis_, i. 48. + ---- _lapponica_, i. 77. + _Chrysosplenium alternifolium_, i. 9. + Church tyranny, i. 157. + Church at Lulea, i. 239. + _Cicindela sylvatica_, i. 175. + _Cicuta virosa_, i. 246. ii. 136, 143. + Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62. + Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158. + Clay, i. 31, 73. + Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203. + Club-moss, i. 20. + _Coccinella trifasciata_, i. 179. + Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93. + _Colymbus arcticus_, i. 27, 176. ii. 98, 151. + ---- _auritus_, i. 118. + _Comarum palustre_, i. 158. + _Confervæ_, i. 336. + _Convallaria bifolia_, i. 58. ii. 274. + Cookery, i. 248; + performed by the men, i. 132. + _Coralloides_, i. 8, 84. + _Corallorrhiza_, i. 223, 245. ii. 47. + Corals, petrified, i. 30. + _Cornus suecica_, i. 177, 189. + _Corvus Cornix_, ii. 229. + ---- _glandarius_, ii. 110. + ---- _infaustus_, ii. 109, 255. + _Cos molaris_, i. 30. + Costmary, i. 220. + Cotton-Rush, i. 68. + Cradles, different kinds of, i. 190. + Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. 26. + Cranberries, i. 208. + Cranes, i. 94. + Cross-bills, i. 70. + Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62. + _Cuculus canorus_, i. 23, 319. + _Culex pipiens_, i. 159. + ---- _pulicaris_, i. 238, 251. + ---- _reptans_, i. 209, 251. ii. 115. + _Cypræa_, ii. 191. + _Cyprinus Aphya_, i. 102. + ---- _Brama_, i. 27. + _Cypripedium Calceolus_, ii. 112. + + + D. + + _Daphne_, i. 23. + _Dermestes murinus_, i. 206. + _Diapensia lapponica_, i. 285. ii. 280. + _Dillenia_. See _Azalea_. + Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. 32-35. + ---- of cattle, i. 245. + Diver, black-throated, i. 27. + _Draba alpina_, ii. 280. + ---- _verna_, i. 5. + Dress, travelling, of Linnæus, i. 1. + ---- of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326-335. ii. 10, 110, 144-150. + _Dryas octopetala_, ii. 280. + Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118. + Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170. + _Dytiscus natator_, i. 100. + + + E. + + East Bothland, ii. 151-166. 201-232. + Elf-Carleby, i. 15. + Elm, common, i. 22, 68. + _Elymus arenarius_, ii. 204. + _Emberiza Hortulanus_, i. 71. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 71. ii. 97, 282. + _Empetrum nigrum_, i. 138, 139, 152. ii. 26, 280. + _Empis borealis_, i. 87, 179. + _Ephemera_, i. 73, 177. + _Epilobium augustifolium_, ii. 87. + ---- _palustre_ β, i. 283. + _Equisetum hyemale_, i. 121. + _Erica vulgaris_, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. 119, 277. + _Erigeron uniflorum_, ii. 279. + _Eriophorum alpinum_, i, 177, 254. + ---- _polystachion_, i. 68. + ---- _vaginatum_, i. 68. + _Erysimum Barbarea_, i. 255, 267. β, i. 72. + + + F. + + Festivals, i. 114, 157. + Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29. + Fir, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202. + ---- spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202. + Fisheries, i. 128, 163. + Flax, i. 200. + Flesh-fly, i. 159. + Food of the Laplanders, i. 154. + Foxes, i. 71, 250. + Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79. + _Fringilla Montifringilla_, i. 23, 29. + Frogs, imagined to live in a woman's stomach, i. 111. + Frog-spittle, i. 214. + _Fucus_, i. 336. ii. 263. + _Fumaria bulbosa minima_, i. 37. + Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 12. + + + G. + + Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231. + Gad-fly, i. 215. + _Gadus virens_, i. 341. + Gale, sweet, i. 19. + _Galium boreale_, ii. 275. + _Gentiana nivalis_, ii. 280. + ---- _tenella_, ii. 280. + _Geranium sylvaticum_, i. 283. + Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. 241. + _Glires_, i. 89. + Glirr, i. 102. + Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238. + Goosander, i. 94-96. + Granite, i. 9, 30, 35. + Grayling, i. 61. + Grebe, little-eared, i. 118. + Grous, black, i. 23. + Grous, wood, i. 179. + Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. 242. + Grundell, Baron, i. 70. ii. 245. + _Gryllus domesticus_, i. 254. + Gulls, i. 75. + Gwiniad, small, i. 161. + _Gyrophoræ_, ii. 282. + + + H. + + Hair-moss, great, i. 171, 191. + Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74. + Hare, i. 89. + Harness, rein-deer, i. 104. + Harr, i. 61. + Hazle, i. 62, 68. + Heart's ease, i. 41. + Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 56. + _Hedera Helix_, i. 21. + Helsingland, i. 25. + _Hepatica_, i. 11. + _Hieracium Pilosella_, i. 5. + _Hippophaë rhamnoides_, ii. 224, 233. + Hobgoblins, supposed to inhabit the mountains, i. 221. + Hops, i. 36, 62. + Horns of the reindeer, i. 135. + Horsetail, naked, i. 121. + Househould Å“conomy of the Laplanders, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, + 340. ii. 5-18, 23-26, 47-50. + Humble-bee, i. 159. + _Humulus Lupulus_, ii. 122, 228. + Hunting the bear, ii. 83-85. + Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155. + _Hyoscyamus niger_, ii. 224. + _Hypnum parietinum_, i. 8. + + + I. + + Implements of husbandry, i. 65. + Insects at Bumoen, i. 200. + ---- Lulea, i. 233. + ---- Pithoea, i. 216. + ---- Umoen, i. 192-194. + _Iris Pseudacorus_, ii. 228. + Ivy, i. 21. + Itinerary of Linnæus, ii. 270. + + + J. + + Jarf, i. 71. + _Juncellus aquaticus_, i. 122. + _Juncus campestris_, i. 5. + ---- _curvatus_, ii. 281. + ---- _trifidus_, i. 279. + ---- _triglumis_, ii. 112. + Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156. + _Jussiea._ See _Sibbaldia_. + + + K. + + Kettle, method of boiling, i. 198. + Kids, i. 10. + Kimi, ii. 146-151. + Korssraff, i. 71. + Kowall, i. 111. + + + L. + + Lady-bird, i. 179. + _Lapis molaris_, i. 30. + Lapland Alps, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to determine the height of, ii. 272. + Lapland minerals, ii. 35-37. + ---- Norwegian, i. 322-335. + Laplanders' amusements, ii. 50-58. + ---- character, i. 132. + ---- dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326-335. ii. 110, 144-150. + ---- diseases, ii. 32-35. + ---- food, i. 154. + ---- substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86. + ---- household Å“conomy, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340, 341. ii. 5-18, + 23-26, 47-50. + ---- huts, i. 125-127, 155. + ---- marriages, ii. 67-76. + ---- shop, i. 119, 120. + ---- weapons, i. 137. + Lark, i. 6. + _Larus canus_, i. 75, 319. + _Lathyrus palustris_, ii. 226. + _Ledum palustre_, i. 23, 246. ii. 275. + _Leontodon Taraxacum_, i. 5. + _Leonurus Cardiaca_, ii. 224. + _Lepas Balanoides_, i. 336. + ---- _Balanus_, i. 336. + _Lernea asellina_, i. 341. + _Libellula forcipata_, i. 190. + ---- _Virgo_, i. 190. + _Lichen arcticus_, i. 31. + ---- _byssoides_, i. 84. + ---- _caninus_, i. 31. + ---- _cocciferus_, i. 84. + ---- _ericetorum_, i. 156. + ---- _islandicus_, i. 24. ii. 200. + ---- _jubatus_, ii. 171. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 4, 85. + ---- _omphalodes_, ii. 233. + ---- _rangiferinus_, i. 84, 161, 318. ii. 18, 88, 108, 128, 199, 277. + ---- _stygius_, ii. 233. + ---- _uncialis_, i. 82, 84. + ---- _velleus_, i. 213. + Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, 161. + _Ligusticum Levisticum_, i. 73. + Lime-tree, i. 68. + Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139. + _Linnæa borealis_, i. 21, 37, 203, 229. + _Lithospermum arvense_, i. 5. + _Lonicera Xylosteum_, ii. 227. + _Loxia curvirostra_, i. 70. + _Ludus Helmontii_, i. 8. + Lulea, i. 228-255. + Lulean Lapland, i. 256-283. ii. 81-130. + Lumme, i. 27, 176. + _Lychnis alpina_, ii. 19. + ---- _apetala_, ii. 279. + ---- _dioica_, i. 33. + ---- _Viscaria_, ii. 19. + Lycksele Lapland, i. 96-194. + ---- parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. 242. + _Lycopodium alpinum_, } + ---- _clavatum_, } i. 20. + ---- _complanatum_, } + ---- _Selago_, } + _Lycopsis arvensis_, i. 253. + _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, ii. 275. + _Lythrum Salicaria_, ii. 164. + + + M. + + Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131. + Maple, i. 68. + Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii. 67-76. + Meal-berry, i. 250. + Medelpad, i. 35. + _Medusa aurita_, i. 338. + _Medusa capillata_, i. 336. + ---- _cruciata_, i. 338. + _Melampyrum pratense_, } i. 110, 111. + ---- _sylvaticum_, } + _Menyanthes trifoliata_, i. 86, 200, 352. + _Mergus Merganser_, i. 94-96. + _Mesomora_, i. 177, 189. + _Mica_, i. 26, 247. + Mice, i. 89. + _Michelia._ See _Azalea lapponica_. + Milk, i. 59, 242-244, 273, 317. + ---- preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. 181. + Minerals, ii. 35-37. + Mining, i. 195, 196. + Missne, i. 86. + Money-wort, i. 229. + _Montia fontana_, i. 176. + Mosses, their fructification, i. 181-186. + Motacilla flava, i. 71. + Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. 244. + _Mures_, i. 89. + _Mus Lemmus_, i. 102, 162, 303. + _Musca carnaria_, i. 159. + _Muscus lichenoides_, i. 213. + ---- _tectorius_, i. 85. + _Mustela Gulo_, i. 71. ii. 50, 279. + _Mya arenaria_, i. 237. + ---- _margaritifera_, ii. 105. + _Myosotis scorpioides_, i. 5. + _Myrica Gale_, i. 19, 208. + + + N. + + _Nardus stricta_, i. 236. + _Narthecium ossifragum_, i. 257. + Norway, i. 335-366. + Norwegian Lapland, i. 322-335. + _Nostoc_, i. 263. + _Nux vomica_, i. 112. + + + O. + + Oak, i. 68. + Ochre, i. 62, 63. + Å’conomy of the Torneans, ii. 173-182. + _Å’strus nasalis_, ii. 45. + ---- _Tarandi_, i. 293. ii. 2, 23. + _Oniscus aquaticus_, i. 206. + _Ophrys alpina_, ii. 279. + ---- _cordata_, ii. 109. + Orchis, palmated, i. 178. + Ore, silver, i. 246. + _Orobus vernus_, ii. 228. + Ortolans, i. 71. + Owls, i. 93, 204. + Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210. + _Oxalis Acetosella_, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + P. + + _Paris quadrifolia_, i. 138. + _Pedicularis_, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. 277. + ---- _flammea_, i. 296. ii. 280. + ---- _hirsuta_, ii. 280. + _Pedicularis lapponica_, ii. 278. + _Perca fluviatilis_, ii. 86. + Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364. + _Pes pelicani_, i. 336. + _Petromyzon fluviatilis_, ii. 196. + _Phaca alpina_, ii. 275. + _Phoca vitulina_, ii. 234. + _Phrygania bicaudata_, i. 74. + _Pica lapponum_, i. 175. + Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162. + Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140. + _Pinguicula_, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. 109. + ---- _villosa_, i. 255. + _Pinus Abies_, i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. 274, 275. + ---- _nodosa_, i. 214. + ---- _plicata_, i. 7. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 25, 49. ii. 60, 66, 157, 275, 276. + Pipsten, i. 30. + _Pisum maritimum_, ii. 203. + Pithoea, i. 194-228. ii. 256. + Plants at Calix, ii. 193, 195, 196. + ---- Flaskesele, i. 116, 117. + ---- Gräno, i. 174. + ---- Jö, ii. 202. + ---- Jockmock, i. 265, 266. + ---- Kimi, ii. 147, 151-153. + ---- Kiomitis, i. 269-272. + ---- Koskesvari, i. 258-260. + ---- Limingo, ii. 212, 213. + ---- Lulea, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. 122, 125. + ---- Sastmola, ii. 227. + ---- Skargarden, i. 220, 221. + ---- Torfiolme, i. 345. + ---- Tornea, ii. 125, 131, 136-144, 169, 172. + ---- Umoea, i. 181-186. + ---- Upland, i. 325. + ---- Wallavari, i. 283-291, 293-303. + ---- Wasa, ii. 223. + ---- Zangis, ii. 128-130. + Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98-100. + Plants and fishes near Pithoea, i. 222-228. + Plovers, ringed, i. 93. + _Polygonum Fagopyrum_, i. 166. + ---- _viviparum_, i. 282. + _Polypodium_, i. 55. + _Polytrichum_, i. 85, 191. ii. 225. + ---- _commune_, i. 124, 171. + _Populus tremula_, i. 77, ii. 277. + _Potamogeton gramineum_, ii. 112. + ---- perfoliatum, ii. 92. + Potatoes, i. 62. + _Poterium Sanguisorba_, i. 220. + _Primula_, i. 5, 277. + _Prunus Padus_, ii. 277. + Ptarmigan, i. 35, 150. + _Pteris crispa_, ii. 278. + _Pyrolæ_, i. 17. + _Pyrus Aucuparia_, ii. 277. + + + Q. + + Quicksand, i. 63. + + + R. + + _Ranunculus acris_, i. 203. + ---- _aquatilis_, ii. 91. + ---- _glacialis_, ii. 281, 282. + ---- _lapponicus_, i. 156, 252. + ---- _nivalis_, ii. 281. + Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121. + Reindeer, i. 68, 79, 103-110, 113, 127, 135, 161, 280, 307-314. ii. 22, + 37-46, 107, 110. + ---- method of castrating, ii. 3. + _Ribes alpinum_, ii. 227. + ---- _rubrum_, i. 257. + _Rosa cinnamomea_, ii. 274. + Rocking children, various modes of, i. 190. + _Rubus arcticus_, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. 118, 274. + ---- _Chamæmorus_, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. 109, 279. + ---- _fruticosus_, ii. 118. + ---- _idæus_, ii. 118. + ---- _saxatilis_, ii. 118, 228. + Ruffs and Reeves, i. 71. + _Rumex Acetosa_, i. 102, 153, 315, 366. + ---- digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. 281. + Rye, i. 56, 57, 67. + + + S. + + _Salix caprea_, i. 5. + ---- _glauca_, ii. 278. + ---- _hastata_, ii. 278. + ---- _Helix_, i. 17. + ---- _lanata_, i. 77. ii. 279. + ---- _Lapponum_, ii. 26. + _Salix myrsinites_, ii. 279. + ---- _pentandra_, ii. 275. + ---- _phylicifolia_, i. 242. + ---- _rosmarinifolia_, ii. 183. + Sallow-tree, i. 55. + _Salmo Albula_, i. 161. ii. 86, 89, 216. + ---- _alpinus_, i. 127, 305-307. ii. 277. + ---- _Lavaretus_, i. 160. ii. 37, 97, 167, 275. + ---- _Salar_, ii. 116, 189. + ---- _Thymallus_, i. 61. ii. 275. + Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. 117. + Sandpipers, i. 93. + _Satyrium viride_, i. 178. + _Saxifraga_, i. 10. ii. 280. + _Saxum fornacum_, i. 30. + _Scarabæus_, i. 206. + _Sceptrum Carolinum_, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. 119, 277. + _Scheuchzeria palustris_, i. 257. + _SchÅ“nus Mariscus_, i. 150. + _Scirpus cæspitosus_, i. 122, 150. + ---- _maritimus_, ii. 228. + _Sciurus volans_, ii. 231. + ---- _vulgaris_, ii. 49. + _Scolopax Gallinago_, i. 19. + Seals, remarks on, ii. 234. + _Sedum Telephium_, ii. 226. + _Serratula alpina_, i. 259. + Shop, Laplander's, i. 119. + _Sibbaldia procumbens_, i. 284. + _Silene acaulis_, ii. 281. + _Sisymbrium Nasturtium_, ii. 226. + Skelleftea, i. 203. + Skula, mountain, ii. 242. + Sledge, i. 104. + _Solanum Dulcamara_, ii. 224. + _Solidago Virgaurea_, ii. 87. + _Sonchus alpinus_, ii. 60, 77-79, 277. + _Sorbus_, ii. 277. + _Spergula arvensis_, i. 353. + _Sphagnum_, i. 37, 139, 156, 165. + ---- _palustre_, ii. 109. + _Sphinx Filipendulæ_, i. 321. + Spiders, i. 23. + Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. 231. + Squirrels, i. 89, 176. + _Stellaria minima_, i. 238. + ---- _nemorum_, i. 279. + _Strix Bubo_, i. 39, 210-213. + ---- _Ulula_, i. 205. + Struthiopteris, ii. 277. + Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364. + Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244. + Swallows, i. 71. + _Swammerdamia_, i. 237. + Swans, i. 94. + + + T. + + Talc, i. 42. + _Talcum Ollaris_, i. 356. + _Tanacetum Balsamita_, i. 220. + _Tanacetum vulgare_, ii. 201. + Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. 120, 121. + _Taxus baccata_, i. 11. + Tents of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 7. + _Tetrao Lagopus_, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. 258. + ---- _Tetrix_, i. 23. + ---- _Urogallus_, i. 78, 177, 179. ii. 96. + _Thalictrum alpinum_, i. 277. + ---- _flavum_, i. 138. + _Thlaspi arvense_, i. 5. + _Tilia europæa_, ii. 225. + _Tipula juniperi_, i. 21. + ---- _rivosa_, i. 186. + Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's stomach, i. 112. + Tobacco, i. 62, 86. + _Tofieldia palustris_, i. 257, 265, 366. + Tordmule, i. 64. + _Tormentilla officinalis_, i. 155. + Tornea, ii. 130-146, 166-201. + ---- Å“conomical remarks concerning the neighbourhood of, ii. 173-182. + Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180. + ---- salmon, i. 206. + Trefoil, water, i. 86. + _Tremella juniperina_, i. 175. + _Trientalis_, i. 282. ii. 278. + _Tringa hypoleucos,_ i. 117. + ---- _pugnax_, i. 71. + _Tringæ_, i. 93. + _Turdus iliacus_, i. 6, 23, 121, 176. + _Tussilago frigida_, ii. 277. + ---- _nivea_, ii. 275. + + + V. + + _Vaccinium Myrtillus_, i. 23, 25, 35, 49, 124, 208. ii. 275. + ---- _Oxycoccos_, i. 208. + ---- _uliginosum_, ii. 279. + ---- _Vitis Idæa_, i. 23, 124, 137, 258. + _Veronica alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, ii. 275. + _Viburnum Opulus_, ii. 227. + _Vicia sylvatica_, ii. 228. + _Viola biflora_, i. 138, 279. ii. 278. + ---- _canina_, i. 42. + ---- _lactea_, i. 42. + ---- _lutea_, i. 41. + ---- _odorata_, i. 5. + ---- _palustris_, i. 20, 45. + ---- _tricolor_, i. 5, 41. + Violet, aquatic, i. 42. + ---- marsh, i. 20, 45. + ---- yellow, i. 138. + _Viverra Lutreola_, ii. 231. + + + U. + _Ulvæ_, i. 336. + Umoea, i. 69, 178. + Upland, i. 2. + Upsal, i. 3. ii. 234. + + + W. + + Wagtail, water, i. 62. + Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine the height of the + Lapland Alps, ii. 272. + Wallavari mountain, ii. 257. + Wasp, i. 159. + Weapons, i. 137. + Well, mineral, i. 241. + West Bothland, i. 67. + Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137. + Willows, i. 61, 68, 80, 138, 249. + Winter-green, i. 17. + Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + X. + + _Xyphias Gladius_, i. 335. + + + Y. + Yellow-hammer, i. 71. + Yew, i. 11. + +THE END. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Vol i. p 134, line 11, read _set in_. + +206, line 3 from the bottom, for _Dean_ read _principal clergyman_. + +246, line 16, read _some of the Nasaphiel silver ore_. + + * * * * * + +_Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe-Lane, London._ + +_Of the Publishers of this Work may be had the following Works, written +or edited by_ DR. SMITH. + + + 1. PLANTARUM ICONES HACTENUS INEDITÆ, plerumque ad Plantas in + Herbario Linnæano conservatas delineatæ. Fascic. I. II. III. Small + Folio, each containing 25 Plates, Price Three Guineas in Boards. + 1789, &c. + + 2. CAROLI LINNÆI FLORA LAPPONICA, exhibens Plantas per Lapponiam + crescentes, secundum Systema Sexuale, collectas in Itinere Impensis + Reg. Scient. Upsaliensis Anno 1782 instituto. Additis Synonymis, et + Locis Natalibus omnium, Descriptionibus et Figuris rariorum, Viribus + medicatis et Å“conomicis plurimarum. Editio altera, aucta et + emendata. 1792. In one Volume Octavo, with a Frontispiece and Twelve + Engravings. 12_s._ in Boards. + + 3. A SKETCH of a TOUR on the CONTINENT. The Second Edition. 1807. 3 + Vols. 8vo. Price 1£. 7_s._ in Boards. + + 4. TRACTS relating to NATURAL HISTORY, with coloured Plates. 8vo. + 1798. 7_s._ Boards. + + 5. FLORA BRITANNICA, Vol. I. II. III. 8vo. 1800, &c. 1£. 6_s._ 6_d._ + Boards.--The Fourth Volume of this Work will be published as + speedily as possible. + + 6. COMPENDIUM FLORÆ BRITANNICÆ, Pars I. Crown 8vo. 3_s._ sewed.--The + Conclusion of this Work will appear with that of the preceding. + + 7. An INTRODUCTION to PHYSIOLOGICAL and SYSTEMATICAL BOTANY. Second + Edition. 1809. 8vo. with 14 Plates. 14_s._ Boards; or with the + Plates coloured, 1£. 8_s._ in Boards. + + 8. A TOUR to HAFOD in CARDIGANSHIRE, the seat of THOMAS JOHNES, + Esq., M. P.; beautifully printed by Beasley in Super-royal Folio, + and accompanied by FIFTEEN VIEWS (Size 20 Inches by 13-1/2) engraved + in Aquatinta and coloured to imitate the original drawings, by JOHN + SMITH. Price Twelve Guineas in Boards.--Only 100 Copies are printed. + + 9. FLORA GRÆCA: sive Plantarum rariorum Historia, quas in Provinciis + aut Insulis Græciæ legit, investigavit, et depingi curavit JOHANNES + SIBTHORP, M. D. S. S. Reg. et Linn. Lond. Socius, Bot. Professor + Regius in Academia Oxoniensi. Hic illic etiam insertæ sunt pauculæ + Species quas Vir idem clarissimus, Græciam versus navigans, in + Itinere, præsertim apud Italiam et Siciliam, invenerit. Characteres + omnium, Descriptiones et Synonyma elaboravit JACOBUS EDVARDUS SMITH, + M. D. &c. Fasciculi I. et II. Folio (forming the First Volume.) with + 50 beautifully coloured Engravings in each, Price Twelve Guineas + each in Boards.--The Third Fasciculus is in considerable + Forwardness. + + 10. PRODROMUS FLORE GRÆCÆ, Pars I. et II. (forming the First Volume) + Royal 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._ each Part in Boards. + + +_Also published by_ WHITE _and_ COCHRANE, + + The LIFE of Sir CHARLES LINNÆUS. To which are added, a copious List + of his Works, and a Biographical Sketch of the Life of his Son, by + D. H. STOEVER. Translated from the original German by JOSEPH TRAPP, + A. M. Handsomely printed in Quarto, with a Portrait, Price One + Guinea in Boards.--A few Copies in Royal Quarto, Price 1£, 11_s._ + 6_d._ + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The discovery of the plant in question is related in the _Flora +Lapponica_ in so interesting a manner, that we cannot refrain from +translating the passage. See the second edition, p. 135. + +"I met with this plant but once, and that throughout a journey of four +hours, over the celebrated mountain of Wallivari in the district of +Lulea, towards a tract of country which lies about half way between the +northern and western part, where it grew in great abundance. + +"Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse perspiration, facing +the cold wind, at midnight; if I may call it night when the sun was +shining without setting at all; still anxiously inquiring of my +interpreter how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which I had for two +hours been expecting, though I knew not its precise situation; casting +my eager eyes around me in all directions, I perceived as it were the +shadow of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking it for the +_Empetrum_. But after going a few steps further, an idea of its being +something I was unacquainted with came across my mind, and I turned +back; when I should again have taken it for the _Empetrum_, had not its +greater height caused me to consider it with more attention. I know not +what it is that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the night, as +to render objects far less distinct than in the middle of the day, +though the sun shines equally bright. The sun being near the horizon, +spreads its rays in such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely +protect our eyes: besides, the shadows of plants are so infinitely +extended, and so confounded with each other, from the tremulous +agitation caused by the blustering wind, that objects very different in +themselves are scarcely to be distinguished from each other. Having +gathered one of these plants, I looked about and found several more in +the neighbourhood, all on the north side, where they grew in plenty; but +I never met with the same in any other place afterwards. As at this time +they had lost their flowers, and were ripening seed, it was not till +after I had sought for a very long time that I met with a single flower, +which was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with five sharper +divisions." + +[2] This strange passage is presumed to allude to a little gun, four or +five inches long, still shown in the arsenal at Stockholm, with which +vulgar report says the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas. + +[3] It is not impossible that Linnæus might be misled here by the +prejudices of his time, or by those of the people from whom he obtained +his account. + +[4] The whole of this account of the hay consists, in the manuscript, of +such concise, disjointed, and obscure notes, that we are by no means +certain of having preserved the exact sense. + +[5] La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge, observes that "it +is attached by a single trace or thong, passing under the belly of the +reindeer, and fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's +neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to his horns, serves, +when pulled in a straight line, to stop his course, or, when drawn +toward either side, to turn him in that direction. When this cord is +made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on the back, it urges +him to greater speed. The overturn of the sledge, where the road is +uneven, is prevented by a stick, which serves, like the oar or paddle of +a boat, to guide its course." + +[6] Linnæus records this misfortune in his _Flora Lapponica_, at n. 42, +see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speaking of _Arundo Calamagrostis_, he says +he "presumes the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no +opportunity of comparing his plant with books and descriptions, having +lost the specimen, with various other natural productions, by being cast +away as he was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland." The +synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus by memory applied, proves +to be erroneous. + +[7] This account does not agree with the description in the _Flora +Lapponica_, but is the most correct. + +[8] This also is correct. + +[9] A few further remarks on the above subject, printed in the _Flora +Lapponica_, may be acceptable to the English reader. + +"This disease made no regular progress, nor was it communicated by +infection from one animal to another. The cows are driven all together +in the spring to feed in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on +the other side of a creek of the river, in which I was informed the +greatest mortality happened. The symptoms differ in different cases; but +all the cattle, feeding indiscriminately, are seized with a swelling of +the abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with horrid bellowing, +in the space of a few days. No person dares venture to flay the recent +carcases, it having been found by experience that not only the hands, +but even the face, in consequence of the warm steams from the body, +became inflamed and gangrenous, and that death finally ensued. + +"I was asked whether this disease was a kind of plague; whether the +meadow in question produced any venomous spiders; or whether the +yellow-coloured water was poisonous. + +"That it was no plague appeared from its not being contagious, and from +the spring being its most fatal season. I saw no spiders here, except +what are common throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow sediment of +the water any thing more than a common innocent ochre of iron. + +"I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was taken to this +meadow, than the _Cicuta_ presented itself before me, and explained the +cause of all this destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow where +the cattle are first seized with the distemper, especially near the +shore. The slightest observation teaches us that brute animals +distinguish, by natural instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, +from such as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not eat this Hemlock +in summer or autumn; whence few of them perish at those seasons, and +such only as devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an +inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned out in the spring, +partly from their eagerness for fresh herbage, partly from their long +fasting and starvation, they seize with avidity whatever comes within +their reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient to satisfy +them; probably also it is in general more succulent, immersed under +water, and scarcely perceptibly scented; so that they are unable to +distinguish the wholesome from the pernicious kinds. I remarked every +where that the radical leaves only were cropped, no others; which +confirmed what I have asserted. In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same +plant cut with the hay for winter food; so that it is no wonder if in +that state some, even of the more cautious cattle, are destroyed by it." +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 76. + +[10] This plant is not mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica_, and the +account annexed seems to belong to _Ligusticum scoticum_, n. 107 of that +work, with which it well agrees. + +[11] Linnæus in this description denominates these leaflets, whether of +the general or partial involucrum, _radii_, a term he always +subsequently used for the stalks of the umbels. + +[12] King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit to Tornea in 1694, was +accompanied by Count G. Douglas the Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper +Counsellor of Chancery, J. Hoghusen Counsellor of the Board of War, and +some other learned men, and in the night between the 13th and 14th of +June saw, from the belfry of the church, the midnight sun, at that time +visible there to a person placed on such an elevation. The year +following, Professors Bilberg and Spole were sent to Tornea to repeat +these observations. The royal visit to Tornea was commemorated by a +medal struck on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the king; +on the reverse, a representation of the sun half above the horizon, with +this motto, _Soli inocciduo Sol obvius alter_; and beneath, _Iter Regis +ad Botniam Occidentalem_, _Mense Junio_ 1694. + +[13] _Stegerhusen._ I have not been able to make out the precise meaning +of this word. + +[14] John Messenius, famous for his learning and his misfortunes, was +professor of law and politics at Upsal, in the reign of the great +Gustavus Adolphus, who had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all +his wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and hatred of some of +the colleagues of this able man, especially of John Rudbeck, a malignant +though learned theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify +Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius to Stockholm, and made +him a member of the new council established there. The latter was +formally accused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic king +Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual prison, where he composed a +great work entitled _Scandia illustrata_, published at Stockholm between +the years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son Arnold might be +justified for detesting those who had persecuted his illustrious father, +but not for the folly of expressing his feelings in satirical +publications against people in power. For this he paid with his life on +the scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, suffered with him. + +[15] In the Journal, vol. i. 101, Linnæus speaks of Mr. Oladron as the +curate of Lycksele, and his wife. + +[16] The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not agree with the +original journal, which therefore I have followed. See the first page of +this volume. + +[17] _Jacq. Ic. Rar. t. 154. Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1287._ + +[18] We know not what species the author intends by this name. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes + +Non-standard spellings have been retained as printed. These are listed +as suspect typographical errors as follows: + +page 59: suspect typo "skain" for "skein" ( ... being wrapped round the +hand like a skain of thread ...) + +page 73: suspect typo "basons" for "basins" (The fat part of the broth +is first served up in basons.) + +Changes to typographical errors in the text are as follows: + +page 182: changed "Servet-mjolk" to "Servet-mjölk". + +page 198 changed "close" to "closed" ( ... a trough, closed on all +sides, ...) + +Page 296 added "i." (parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. +242.) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + +***** This file should be named 36059-0.txt or 36059-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/5/36059/ + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lachesis Lapponica + A Tour in Lapland + +Author: Carl von Linné + +Editor: James Edward Smith + +Translator: Charles Troilius + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + + + + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + +In this Plain Text version symbols from ASCII and Latin-1 character sets +are used, with the following substitutions for different typefaces and +special characters: + + Italic typeface is represented by surrounding _underscores_. + Small caps typeface is represented by UPPER CASE. + Superscript characters are indicated by a preceding carat (^). + + [beta], [gamma], [lambda], [kappa] represent single greek characters. + [OE] and [oe] represent oe-ligatures (upper and lower case). + [)a] represents a breve over an "a". + +Archaic or inconsistent spellings, hyphenation and punctuation are +retained as printed except where typographical errors have been +corrected, as listed at the end of the book. + +Note that the style of capitalised species names are retained as they +appear in the original. + + * * * * * + + _Lachesis Lapponica_, + + OR A + + TOUR IN LAPLAND, + + NOW FIRST PUBLISHED + FROM THE + ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL + OF THE CELEBRATED + + LINNÆUS; + + BY + + JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M.D. F.R.S. ETC. + PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + VOL. II. + + + "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus." + OVID. + + + _LONDON_: + PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD, + FLEET-STREET, + BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE. + + 1811. + + + + +JOURNEY TO LAPLAND. + + +In the latter part of this day, _July 15th_, I set out on my return from +the low grounds of Norway. The heat was very powerful as we began to +ascend the mountains. When we reached what had seemed to us from below +the summit of a hill, we saw just as lofty an eminence before us, and +this was the case nine or ten successive times. I had no idea of such +mountains before. The elevation of this hill cannot be taken by any +geometrical instrument, as the summit is not visible, even at some miles +distance. I believe its height must exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb +it was worse than going two miles any other way. Had we not frequently +met with such abundance of water, we should have been overcome with +fatigue. In this ascent I found the little _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_) with +a white flower, and the Little Gentian (_Gentiana nivalis_). + +Our clothes, which were wet quite through with perspiration, in +consequence of the heat we had encountered in the beginning of our +journey, were now frozen stiff upon our backs by the cold. We determined +to seek for a Laplander's hut. In order to get at one, we were obliged +to descend so steep a hill, that, being unable to walk down it, I lay +down on my back and slid along, with the rapidity of an arrow from a +bow. I avoided with difficulty the large snow torrents that every now +and then came in my way, and which were sometimes within an ell of me. + +On reaching this hut, I noticed some of the reindeer whose horns were +not above half an inch long, the Brom-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_) having +bitten them while quite tender; for these insects are, in the Norwegian +alps, worse than the gnats of Swedish Lapland. + +I here obtained a curious piece of information respecting the mode of +castrating the reindeer. When the animal is two years and a half old, +its owner, about a fortnight before Michaelmas, getting a person to +assist him by holding it fast by the horns, places himself betwixt its +hind legs. He then applies his teeth to the _scrotum_, so as to bruise +its contents, but not so as to break the skin, for in that case the +reindeer would die. He afterwards bruises the part still more +effectually between his fingers. The same operation is performed on both +sides, if the reindeer remains quiet long enough for the purpose at one +time. The animal is in consequence rather indisposed for a while, so +that he can hardly keep up with the rest of the herd, but he usually +recovers perfectly in a week's time. This is certainly an art, no less +curious than remarkable, and merits further consideration. + +The girls here, especially when they wish to appear to advantage, divide +their hair into two braids, one above each ear, which braids are tied +together, at the hind part of the head, so as to hang down the back. A +tuft of ribands is appended to the extremity of each braid. + + +_July 16._ + +We undertook to cross the ice-mountain. Having proceeded some way on our +journey, we observed a dense cloud to the north-east. It was visible +both above and below us, and at length approached us in the form of a +thick mist, which moistened our clothes, and rendered even our hair +thoroughly wet. It so completely obliterated our horizon, that we could +neither see sun nor moon, nor the summits of the neighbouring hills. We +knew not whither to turn our steps, fearing on the one hand to fall down +a precipice and lose our lives, as actually happened, a few years ago, +to a Laplander under the same circumstances; or on the other to be +plunged into the alpine torrent, which had worn so deep a channel +through the snow, as to make any one giddy, looking upon it from above. +We could now not distinguish any thing a couple of ells before us. Our +situation was like that of an unskilful mariner at sea without a +compass, out of sight of land, and surrounded by hidden rocks on every +side. The Laplanders themselves consider the situation we were in as one +of the worst accidents that can ever befall them. We, however, though +destitute of a guide, were fortunate enough to discover the track of a +reindeer, and of some kind of carriage in which goods had probably been +lately conveyed towards Norway. This track directed us safely to one of +the Lapland moveable tents. + +All the Laplanders are usually blear-eyed, so that one would think the +word _Lappi_ (Laplanders) was derived from _lippi_ (blear-eyed). The +causes of this inconvenience are various, but chiefly the following. + +1. The sharp winds. In the early part of my journey, repeated exposure +to stormy weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I became unable to open +them wide, and was obliged to keep them half shut. How much more must +this be the case with those who dwell on the alps, where there is a +perpetual wind! + +2. The snow, the whiteness of which, when the sun shone upon it, was +very troublesome to me. To this the alpine Laplanders are continually +exposed. + +3. The fogs. This day I found myself very comfortable in my walk over +the icy mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud, whichever it might be +called, came about me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as well as +my own, so weak and relaxed, that we could not open them wide without an +effort. Such must often be the case with the Laplanders. + +4. Smoke. How is it possible that these people should not be blear-eyed, +when they are so continually shut up in their huts, where the smoke has +no outlet but by the hole in the roof, and consequently fills every +body's eyes as it passes! + +5. The severity of the cold in this country must also contribute to the +same inconvenience. + +The mountain Laplanders, or those who live in the alps, build no huts; +they have only tents made in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +The first figure represents two connected beams, which compose the +frame-work of one side of the hut; and these meet at the top with two +similar ones, forming the opposite side. A solitary beam is placed on +each side, in the middle of the arch formed by these four, so that the +whole edifice has six angles. Two more slender sticks, but equally tall, +are then erected between every two angles, or main ribs, of the +building. Over the whole is spread the covering of the tent (made of +walmal cloth). The usual height of the structure is about a fathom and +half, and the breadth two fathoms. A flap of cloth is left, so as to +open and shut by way of a door, between two of the main beams. + +[Illustration] + +When they lie down to rest, and are fearful of being incommoded by heat, +they fix a hook through the middle of the coverlet, which raises it +perhaps an ell and a half above them, and under this canopy they repose. + +[Illustration] + +The women wear several things attached to their belt, as a leather bag, +_fig._ 1, containing a spoon, as well as a pipe, _fig._ 3. + +_Fig._ 2. A knife in a case. + +4. A thimble made of leather, which goes round the finger. + +5. A pin-cushion, with a brass cover which pulls down over it like a +cap. + +6. Several large brass rings. + +The belt itself is ornamented with tin or silver embroidery, and +pearls. + +[Illustration] + +The men wear, instead of the above, a kind of bag, hanging down exactly +in front. This is divided internally into two pockets, containing their +tobacco-pipe, tinder-box, tobacco, and a spoon made of reindeer's horn, +of an oblong flattish shape. + +The women often wear a similar bag, but of a smaller size. + +When the reindeer are milked, as they cast their coat during the whole +course of the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, often +covering the milk in the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs of the +animal, and it is found necessary to clean and soften them before the +milking is begun. This is generally done by dipping the fingers into the +milk which may be in the pail already, and washing them therewith. +Whenever it happens that one of the reindeer strays from its master's +herd to that of a neighbour, the person to whom it comes milks it, +without any offence to the proper owner. Such an accident often happens; +for these animals love society, and the more of them there are together, +the better they thrive and enjoy themselves. They are marked at the +ears, like cows, that every person may know his own. + +The furniture of these Laplanders consists of kettles and pots, made +sometimes of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of stone, on account of +the weight. They have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, generally +made of the hard knotty excrescences of the birch. These are often large +enough to hold four or five cans, (of three quarts each,) and formed so +neatly, that any one would believe them to be turned. Into these they +pour what is to be served up at their meals. Plates they have none, but +in their stead boards, of an oblong shape, are used for meat; which, +previous to its distribution among the guests, is served up in round +pails. Closely platted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are used to +keep cheese in. There is moreover an oblong barrel, for the purpose of +holding _jumomjolk_ (_vol._ 1. _p._ 273). + +Within the tent are spread on each side skins of reindeer, with the +hairy part uppermost, on which the people either sit or lie down, for +the tent is not lofty enough to allow any one to stand upright. In the +centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a square enclosure of low +stones about the ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind the +fire-place, is entirely occupied either with brush-wood or branches of +trees, behind which, or, most commonly, before it next the fire, the +household furniture is placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended over +the reindeer skins on each side, upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and +before these, towards the entrance, hang rennet-bags, filled with milk, +preserved for winter use. + +The annexed figure is a sort of plan of the floor of one of these +Lapland tents. a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six in number, +three at the right hand, on entering the tent, and as many at the left. +c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e kettle, with its lid. f, behind +the first reindeer skin, is the place of the harness. g a barrel or +cask. h a store of skins and hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer, +with its flat cover. + +[Illustration] + +The following figure represents the roof of the tent, as seen from +below. a, a, are the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. b outlet for +the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags containing milk. d plat of hair from the +reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e the flat cover of the +milk-strainer; see i in the former figure. + +[Illustration] + +Such was the dwelling, and I shall now describe some of its inhabitants. +I sat myself down at the right hand of the entrance, with my legs +across. Opposite to me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, the other +straight. Her dress came no lower than her knees, but she had a belt +embroidered with silver. Her grey hair hung straight down, and she had a +wrinkled face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was altogether of the +Lapland cast. Her fingers were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next to her +sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty years of age, who, for the +sake of her large herds of reindeer, had already been married ten years +to this old hag. When the Laplanders sit, they either cross their legs +under them, or one knee is bent, the other straight. + +As a defence against wind and snow, a sort of hood, called +_nialmiphata_, is worn over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of the +shape of a truncated cone, dilated at the bottom, and is four palms +high, three palms in circumference at the upper part, and six at the +bottom. This covers the cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, the +eyes and mouth only being exposed. In the back part, at bottom, is a +loop, through which goes a riband to secure the whole from being blown +off, by being tied round the body under the arms. + +In winter-time the women wear breeches, made exactly like those worn by +the men, as well as boots, though the latter come no higher than the +knees. It is wonderful how they are able, in the severity of winter, to +follow the reindeer, which are never at rest, but keep feeding by night +as well as by day. They have indeed small sheds or huts, here and there, +into which they occasionally drive their reindeer, but with the greatest +difficulty. + +During the night we passed over the beautiful lake of _Wirisiar_. The +weather was very cold and foggy. + + +_July 17._ + +In the morning we arrived at the abode of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff, +where I could not but admire the fairness of the bodies of these +dark-faced people, which rivalled that of any lady whatever. + +Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in Lapland _Lummick_. The body of +these animals is grey; face and shoulders black; the loins blackish; +tail, as well as ears, very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss +(_Lichen rangiferinus_), and are not eatable. They live, for the most +part, in the alps; but in some years thousands of them come down into +the woodland countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, and marshes, by +which great numbers perish. They are by no means timid, but look out, +from their holes, at passengers, like a dog. They bring forth five or +six at a birth. Their burrows are about half a quarter (of an ell?) +deep. + +Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, with a hyacinthine flower +in five notched segments (_Gentiana nivalis_). + + +_July 18._ + +I gathered and examined the little Catchfly, which resembles the common +one (_Lychnis Viscaria_) except in being smaller, and not at all viscid. +(_L. alpina_; see _v._ 1. _p._ 302. _n._ 46.) The root is perennial. +Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to linear. Stem simple, round, +smooth, bearing two, three, or four pairs of opposite leaves. From the +uppermost pair springs one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a single +flower, between two small opposite purple leaves. A little higher up, +two other simple flower-stalks come forth in the same manner, with two +coloured leaves at their base, the stem being thus extended straight +upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, with five teeth. Petals five, +their disk cloven half way down; the crown with two teeth. Stamens 10. +Pistils 5. + +After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; but the water we met with +proved less pleasant than usual, having an earthy taste, although it +flowed from plentiful stores of ice and snow. My Laplander took his +knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he sucked by way of refreshment. +I found this mode of drinking agreeable enough, the ice being very +palatable, and we both partook of it largely. He told me it was +considered very wholesome for the chest. Indeed I learned, both from the +Laplanders and my own experience, that pure water, however cold, is +never hurtful, provided it be taken in moderation. + +I was desirous of having my linen washed; but the people understood my +request as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a single article of +their own apparel being made of linen. As their food is of animal +origin, so is their clothing, which consists either of skins, the +produce of the country, or of the woollen cloth called _walmal_, which +they purchase. In the winter they wear Lapland boots, which come up as +high as the middle of the thighs, without any stockings, only the feet +are protected with what they term _Skogras_ (_Carex sylvatica_ Fl. +Brit.), as already mentioned. Next to the body they wear a jacket of +_walmal_, and above that a _lappmudd_, or coat of reindeer skin, with +the hairy side turned inwards. In summer they turn that side outwards. +The boots used by the women do not reach higher than the knee. + + +_July 19._ + +I remarked with astonishment how greatly the reindeer are incommoded in +hot weather, insomuch that they cannot stand still a minute, no not a +moment, without changing their posture, starting, puffing and blowing +continually, and all on account of a little fly. Even though amongst a +herd of perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not above ten of these +flies, every one of the herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour +about. The fly meanwhile was trying every means to get at them; but it +no sooner touched any part of their bodies, than they made an immediate +effort to shake it off. In one respect this season is peculiarly +propitious to the insect, as the reindeer's coat is now very thin, most +of the hair of last year's growth being fallen off. I caught one of +these insects as it was flying along with its tail protruded, which had +at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly white. The tail +itself consisted of four or five tubular joints, slipping into each +other, like a pocket spying-glass, which this fly, like others, has a +power of contracting at pleasure. See what I have already mentioned +(_vol._ 1. _p._ 280), concerning the spots in the reindeer skins, as +caused by this insect (_Oestrus Tarandi_). + +When the Lapland children are laid into the cradle, they seldom cry, +although their hands are confined down to their sides. If they cry, it +is generally from hunger. The cradle is placed in a sloping position, so +that the child's head is half upright. The bottom of the cradle is +hollowed out of a piece of fir wood, consequently not very heavy. Over +the head of the child is a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse +bow is fixed, the whole being covered with cloth, like the rest of the +cradle. In summer the child lies without any covering of reindeer hair, +only having under its head and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or +moss. + +The Laplanders use a curious kind of box or basket, which they call +_kisa_, for keeping or carrying various articles. It is of an oval form, +with the bottom and sides made of fir, like a box, being about a foot +and half long, a foot broad, and six inches deep, with a transverse +opening in the bottom to admit a part of the saddle of the reindeer. The +contents are confined by a lacing of cords, that goes from side to side +across the top, which is otherwise open. Two such boxes, each weighing +about two pounds, are placed like panniers upon the reindeer; for that +animal cannot carry above four or five pounds weight, and the castrated +males only are used as beasts of burthen at all. A leather thong crosses +the saddle, connected with another longer one, which goes round the +chest of the animal at one part, and round its thighs, like the +breechings of a horse, at the other. A pack-saddle, made either of +reindeer skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of spruce fir, goes across +the back, and is connected with the leather thongs just mentioned, being +further secured by a girth under the belly. Against the sides of this +pack-saddle the above-described boxes or baskets are hung and fastened, +the transverse chink in the bottom of each being fitted to the saddle. + +I observed that the Laplanders, both men and women, after borrowing a +lighted pipe, and passing it from one to another, retain a mouthful of +smoke as long as possible, that they may enjoy as much of the flavour as +they can. Old men chew tobacco. + +The tendons in the legs of the reindeer serve to make thread or cord. In +each hind leg are two tendons, one before the other; in each fore leg +one behind and two or three before it. These the Laplanders lay hold of +with their mouths, split and moisten them, rubbing them from time to +time with reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for that use, in order +to render them as supple as possible. Each string is made sharp at both +ends, and drawn through holes of various sizes in an instrument made on +purpose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine and smooth as they can. +Two such threads are then twisted together by means of the hand upon +the thigh or knee. They are generally held with the left hand, and +twisted with the right upon the left knee, proceeding downwards, the +thread being moistened from time to time with saliva. + +In this part of the country the _Empetrum_ (Crow- or Crake-berry) serves +for firing. Otherwise the most common fuel is the dwarf Birch (_Betula +nana_), and the Willow with lanceolate white hairy leaves (_Salix +lapponum_), so very abundant on the Lapland alps. The dwarf birch bears +very small leaves in these elevated regions. + +When the children are taken out of the cradle, which I have already +described (_vol._ 2. _p._ 23), they are dressed in a small garment of +reindeer skin. They are usually able to stand on their legs by the time +they are four months old, and turn their head and eyes about with a +degree of intelligence hardly ever seen in our children at that early +age. + +I never met with any people who lead such easy happy lives as the +Laplanders. In summer they make two meals of milk in the course of the +day, and when they have gone through their allotted task of milking +their reindeer, or making cheese, they resign themselves to indolent +tranquillity, not knowing what to do next. In winter their food is +cheese, taken once or twice a day, but in the evening they eat meat. A +single reindeer supplies four persons with food for a week. + +This animal has no gall-bladder, nor could I discover the insertion of +the biliary duct. The liver however is of a large size. The first +stomach is large, with a thick orifice, and lined with a fine cellular +network like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally plaited. The +Laplanders are curious dissectors. They take out each of the stomachs +separately, with as much care as a professed anatomist. + +The thread made of sinews, as above described, is never used for sewing +_walmal_, which makes their summer clothing, but only for garments +composed of fur or leather. Their shoes indeed are mended, as well as +made, with it. This last business falls to the lot of the women. The +leather is purchased. + +A good ox may be bought in Norway for three rix-dollars; a female +reindeer for one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from twelve to +eighteen dollars, silver coin; and a fawn is worth from twelve to +eighteen dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, therefore, are but +equal to the value of a common ox. + +I left this place in the evening, proceeding on my journey on foot, and +walking all night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the +following day. Thus I walked six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at +another Lapland hut. + +[Illustration] + +Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing by the way, except an +_Andromeda_ (_tetragona_) with quadrangular shoots, and flowers from +the bosoms of the leaves. The stem is woody, procumbent, naked, +thread-shaped, variously divided. Branches partly erect, entirely +covered with leaves, which are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded, +concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an imbricated manner. +Flower-stalks solitary, from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, +thread-shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping flower. Calyx +five-cleft, purplish, with ovate straight segments. Petal one, +half-ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the lily of the valley, cut +half way down into five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, very short, +with horned anthers, scarcely longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the +length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, with five obtuse angles, erect, +of five cells, with several seeds[1]. + + +_July 20._ + +The people here use a kind of bread called _Blodbrod_ (Blood Bread), +made of small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a little quantity of +flour. This is baked or roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is +used only in hard times. + +There are no common flies, bugs, nor snakes, on these Alps. + +The Laplanders however abound with lice, which in winter are allowed to +freeze, when they turn red, and are easily killed. In summer they come +forth from the clothes, if exposed to the sun, and are then destroyed +with the nails, these people having no firelock to shoot them with[2]. + +I was informed that in this neighbourhood the inoculated small-pox is +remarkably fatal. If the patients have but seventy or eighty pustules, +they die of it as of the plague. They fly to the mountains, when +infected, and die. The same is the case with the measles. It appears +that both these diseases are aggravated by the violent cold, whence the +patients die in so miserable a manner[3]. + +Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent. + +Sore eyes are universal, especially in the spring, when the Laplanders +remove towards the Alps. The glittering of the snow has then a +pernicious effect on their eyes. Aged people are very often blind. + +Female obstructions are rare, though sometimes met with among the better +sort of people; neither are the _catamenia_ immoderate, nor in common so +copious as with us. The Lapland women are entirely ignorant of the +_leucorrh[oe]a_. + +Of hysterics I met with but two cases. One maid-servant, twenty-four +years of age, had the complaint about once a year; another, about +thirty, was attacked with it monthly during the summer. + +Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs are frequent; hence the forehead is +often seen full of scars (from the application of their _toule_, or +_moxa_; see _vol._ 1. _p._ 274). + +Elderly people are often hard of hearing. + +The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly sound, and they are in the habit +of sleeping or waking whenever they please. + +A swelling, or falling down, of the _uvula_ is not uncommon, in which +case they frequently cut off the part affected. + +When children are troubled with swellings in the glands about the +throat, the usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck out the blood, +which is considered as a speedy and effectual cure. If this method be +not adopted, they suppose the blood would rise to the head, and cause +cutaneous eruptions there. + +Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding the constant +practice of drinking snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing pure +grease or fat, which perhaps may prevent its bad consequences. However +this may be, the Laplanders seldom die from catching cold. Cases of +_phthisis_, or consumption, do indeed now and then occur among them, and +pleurisies are very common, especially in spring and autumn. Lumbago, or +pain in the back, is most prevalent during the summer. For this, as I +have already mentioned, _vol._ 1. _p._ 274, actual cautery, by means of +their _toule_, or _moxa_, is often applied. + +Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens among those Lapland women who are +in the service of the colonists, and who, in consequence of certain +obstructions, are subject also to [oe]dematous swellings of the feet. + +I have not heard of a single instance of jaundice. + +Some elderly people are afflicted with asthma; and hoarsenesses now and +then occur in the winter and spring. + +The stone and gout are entirely unknown amongst the Laplanders. + +Swellings of the lower extremities are uncommon, as these people are in +the habit of swathing their legs, which renders them all slender and +well shaped. All dropsical complaints indeed are very rare, though I did +meet with one case of this kind. + +Of _tenesmus_ I happened to hear of but a single instance, though the +Laplanders eat so much cheese and drink water. + +Disorders in the stomach are not uncommon, which are frequently attended +with _diarrh[oe]a_, and in some years this disease is contagious. + +The specimens of minerals which I had collected in the course of my +tour were now become numerous, and consisted of the following articles. + +1. An alum, as I presume, of a club shape, without any taste, seeming as +it were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains to the north of the lake +Skalk, near Kiomitis. (See _vol._ 1. _p._ 267.) + +2. Native alum in its own matrix; from the same place. (_Alumen +nativum._ _Syst. Nat._ _vol._ 3. 101). + +3. Native alum, rough and green, separate from its matrix; from the same +mountains. + +4. Alum like the former in appearance, but not salt, perhaps a +calcareous stone; found not far from the same place. + +5. Various alpine micaceous stones. + +6. Marle from Lapland. + +7. Quartz from Lapland. + +8. Silver ore from Kiurivari. + +9. Silver ore from Nasaphiel in Pith[oe]an Lapland. + +10. Sandstone containing three per cent. of iron. + +11. Black slate from the alps. + +12. Petrified corals from Norway. + +13. Iridescent fluors from the alps. + +The fish called by the Laplanders _Sijk_ (the Gwiniad, or _Salmo +Lavaretus_,) is taken in their lakes. Its head terminates in an obtuse +point. The upper jaw is the longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of the +eye silvery, with a blackish upper edge, and a black pupil. The whole +body is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven inches long and two +deep. Head two inches long at the sides; from the snout to the dorsal +fin four inches and a half. The dorsal fin consists of thirteen rays, of +which the first is by far the largest, and the last cloven or +interrupted. The soft fat fin is in its proper place. + + +_July 21._ + +The following are the disorders or inconveniences to which the reindeer +are subject. + +When the frost is so intense as to form an impenetrable crust on the +surface of the snow, so that the animal cannot break it with his feet, +to get at the Lichen on which he feeds, he is frequently starved to +death. This misfortune is as dreadful to the Laplanders as any public or +national calamity elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed, he must +himself either starve to death, beg for his livelihood, or turn thief. + +The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncommonly affected with a swelling at +the edge where they are attached to the skin, at which part they +consequently become ulcerated, and are seldom healed. The creature thus +grows lame, and cannot keep up with the herd. + +These animals are sometimes attacked with a _vertigo_, or giddiness in +the head, which causes them to run round and round continually. The +people assured me, that such of them as run according to the course of +the sun may be expected to get the better of the disorder; but those +which turn the contrary way, being supposed incurable, are immediately +killed. The recovery of the former is thought to be promoted by cutting +their ears, so as to cause a great discharge of blood. + +The _Kurbma_, or ulceration caused by the Gad-fly, (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +280.) takes place every spring, especially in the younger fawns. Such as +are brought forth in the summer season are free from this misfortune the +ensuing spring, but in the following one many of them lose their lives +by it. When come to their full size and strength, the consequences are +less fatal; but no reindeer is entirely exempt from the attacks of this +pernicious insect. + +The fawns are of a reddish hue the first season, during which they cut +their foreteeth. In the autumn they turn blackish, and have fodder given +them. They are when young frequently afflicted with a soreness in the +mouth, so as to be unable for a while to eat. + +Reindeer are subject to a disease called by the Laplanders _Pekke +Kattiata_, accompanied with ulcerations of the flesh, which however +often heal by a sloughing of the part affected. This is an epidemic +disorder. It is believed that if any of the ulcerous part, which is cast +off, be swallowed by the animal, in licking his own coat, or that of any +other of the herd labouring under this malady, it proves fatal by +corroding the viscera. + +The dugs of the female often become chapped or sore, so as to bleed +whenever they are milked. + +The male reindeer in his natural state is fatter than such as are +castrated, except the latter be kept without work, in which case they +become the fattest. Such as are castrated and allowed to run wild, +become considerably larger, as well as tamer, in consequence. + +The rutting season lasts but a fortnight, that is, from about a week +preceding the feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Michaelmas day, during +which period the male is savage and dangerous. Immediately afterwards he +casts his coat and horns, and not unfrequently becomes so emaciated, +that, in many instances, death is the consequence. + +Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.) in the following year, or within +a fortnight of that period, very rarely later, the females bring forth +their young. They do not copulate the first year, and seldom before the +third, their progeny being found the better for this delay. Indeed +neither the males nor females arrive at their full growth and perfection +before they are towards three years old. + +The fawn, whether male or female, is called the first year _mesk_; the +second season the male is called _orryck_, and the female _whenial_. In +the third year the latter, if she has been covered, is known by the +appellation of _watja_ or _waja_, which means a wife; if otherwise, she +goes by the name of _whenial-rotha_, the three-year old male being +called _wubbers_. In his fourth year the male is termed _koddutis_; in +the following one _kosittis_; in the sixth _machanis_, and in the +seventh _namma lappotachis_. After that period no male is kept, they all +perishing in consequence of the exhaustion above mentioned, but the +castrated ones live to a more advanced age. None of these animals +however survive beyond their twelfth or fourteenth year. When the +castrated males become very fat towards autumn, and show signs of old +age; or the females, having become barren, appear otherwise to be on the +decline, they are killed, by the knife, in the close of the year; from +an apprehension that they might otherwise perish of themselves from +infirmity, in the course of another season. + +Such of the male reindeer as are destined to serve for a stock of +provision, are killed before the rutting-time, and their carcases hung +up to be exposed to the air and frost before flaying. The flesh is +smoked and a little salted, and then laid upon sledges to dry in the +sun, that it may keep through the winter till spring. About the feast of +St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin to be so incommoded with the +gad-fly, that they are not in a fit condition to be slain for eating. +From that period therefore, till the milking season, the Laplanders are +obliged to live on this stock of preserved meat. At other times of the +year the females are killed for immediate use, according as they are +wanted. The blood is kept fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves +for food in the spring, being added to the _välling_ (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +129), with a small proportion of milk and water. The blood of these +animals is thick in consistence, like that of a hog. The Laplanders +carry a portion of it along with them from place to place, in bladders +or some kind of vessels. A stock of this and all other necessaries is +collected as late as possible, before the melting of the snow, while +there still remains a track for the sledges. + +A kind of blood pudding or sausage is made, in general without flour, +and with a large proportion of fat. This the Laplanders call _marfi_. + +The liver of the reindeer, which is of a considerable bulk, is boiled +and eaten fresh. The lungs, being salted and moderately dried, are eaten +occasionally, or else given to the dogs. The intestines, which abound +with fat, are cut open, washed, and boiled fresh; nor are they +unpalatable. The brain and testicles are never eaten. The foot is flayed +down to the fetlock joint, beyond which the hair cannot, by scalding or +any other contrivance, be separated, without the cuticle and skin coming +along with it. Even when the feet are boiled, the hair never comes off +without the skin. Thus the animal when living is the more firmly +protected against the snow. The hoofs are thrown away as useless. + +The dung of the reindeer in summer is almost as large as cow-dung, but +in winter it more resembles that of the goat. + +Each individual reindeer does not bear horns of precisely the same shape +every year. The points are very liable to be deformed, in consequence of +the animal's scratching them, while in a growing state, with its feet; +they being in that state much inclined to itch, and as tender as the +flesh of a fresh fish. + +These animals are afflicted with maggots called _kornmatskar_ in their +noses and gums, from which they relieve themselves in the spring by +snorting and blowing. When the insects lodge on their backs and form +pustules there, the people make a practice of squeezing them out, to +prevent the reindeer from being too much irritated by them. (This +species is the _Oestrus nasalis_, though the account here given is not +very clear; but in the first edition only of the _Fauna Suecica_ Linnæus +says, on the authority of a gentleman named Friedenreich, that "this +_Oestrus_ lodges its eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in +Lapland, and is frequently cast out by them as they travel along in the +spring.") + +When the skin is stripped from the carcase of the reindeer, it is +immediately spread out, and stretched as much as possible, by means of +a longitudinal pole, and a transverse stick at each end of the skin, +these sticks being pulled asunder with a strong cord. Several more +transverse twigs are placed between these two sticks, so as to extend +every part of the edges of the hide, which in this position is allowed +to dry. + +The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin taken from the legs of the +animal; their hairy shoes, of that from its forehead between the horns, +such being worth two dollars, copper money; while those made from the +skin of the legs, being much thinner, are of very little or no value. + +A Laplander never goes barefoot, though he has nothing to serve him for +stockings but hay (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). Sometimes he buys +leather for shoes or boots from his neighbours. + +The people of this country boil their meat in water only, without any +addition or seasoning, and drink the broth. _Jumomjölk_ (see _vol._ 1. +278.) kept for a whole year is delicate eating. Berries of all kinds +are boiled in it. Some persons make a practice of boiling those berries +by themselves, preserving them afterwards in small tubs, or other wooden +vessels. They boil their fish more thoroughly than their meat, over a +slow fire, drinking likewise the water in which it has been drest. The +meat is never so much boiled as to separate from the bone. Fresh fish is +sometimes roasted over the fire. Few people dry and salt it, though that +method is sometimes practised. Meat is dried by the air, sun and smoke +all together, being hung up in the chimney, or rather hole by which the +smoke escapes through the roof. + +The Laplanders never eat of more than one dish at a meal. + +By way of dainty, the women occasionally mix the berries of the Dwarf +Cornel (_Cornus suecica_) with _Kappi_ (see _vol._ i. _p._ 281.), which +is made of whey boiled till it grows as thick as flummery. To this they +moreover add some cream. That fruit is entirely neglected in the country +of Medelpad. + +In Dalecarlia the people generally keep their cattle up in the +mountains, twelve or sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on account +of gad-flies and other stinging insects. There they have their dairies, +and make cheese. The remaining whey is boiled till two thirds are +wasted, when it becomes as thick as flummery. This is sometimes eaten +instead of butter, sometimes mixed with dough, or serves for food in +various other manners. + +The wind is excessively powerful in this alpine region, so that +sometimes it is impossible to stand against it, both men and sledges +being overturned by its violence. + +It blew so hard at the place where I now was, that one of the windows of +the curate's house was blown in upon the floor. + +Every Laplander constantly carries a sort of pole or stick, tipped with +a ferule, and furnished with a transverse bit of wood. Whenever he is +tired, he leans his arms and nose against it to rest himself. + +Such as live in the forests are dexterous marksmen, but not those who +inhabit the alps. Nevertheless, they all contrive, by means of their +wooden bows, to procure, in the course of the winter, a considerable +number of Squirrels (_Sciurus vulgaris_) in their grey or winter +clothing, for the sake of their skins. + +In the winter season also they go in pursuit of their most cruel enemies +the wolves. One of these animals will sometimes kill twenty or thirty +reindeer at a time, if he comes into the enclosure where they are. The +wolf often runs away before the Laplander can get near enough to fire at +him. A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, except by coming upon it +unawares, the latter being much the most swift of foot; but if he gets +into any of the store-houses, he does a great deal of mischief, turning +every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also very dangerous in the fissures +of rocks and mountains, where they usually conceal themselves. + +The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) does most harm in the pantry or +store-house. He never meddles with the reindeer. + +A part of the employment of the men is to make sledges, or other +machines of wood for carriage. They cut rough wood in the forests for +the boxes which they carry with them into the alps. + +The duty of the women is to mend the clothes of the whole family. + +Laplanders have several plays or amusements. + +Children make of the dwarf birch (_Betula nana_) something like +reindeer's horns, with which they gore one another in sport. They amuse +themselves frequently by building little huts of stone. + +Grown-up people play very well at tennis, but they seldom partake of +that diversion. More common amusements are blindman's buff, and drawing +gloves. + +Here I think it worth while to observe, that the alpine Laplanders are +more honest, as well as more good-natured, than those who dwell in the +woodlands. Having acquired more polish from their occasional intercourse +with the inhabitants of towns, the latter have, at the same time, +learned more cunning and deceit, and are frequently very knavish. The +inhabitants of the alps dwell in villages formed of their tents, living +together, as I have already related, in great comfort and harmony. Those +who occupy the woody parts of the country live dispersed. + +The Laplanders know no musical instrument except the _lur_ (a sort of +trumpet), and pipes made of the bark of the quicken tree or mountain +ash. They are not accustomed to sing at church, except those who are +reckoned among the great or learned of the community. + +The inhabitants of this country are not more troubled with chilblains +than those of other places. They do not mind having their cheeks +frost-bitten. The women wear an embroidered band round the head, which +affords no protection in this respect; but the men have a loose band of +skin with the hair on, which can be pulled down occasionally over their +cap, when the cold is intolerable. + +(But to proceed with a further account of the diversions of the people I +am describing). + +_Spetto_, one of their games, is played, by men as well as women, in the +following manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty or sixty pieces of +wood, a hand's breadth in length, which are spread upon the extended +skin of a reindeer. One of the players takes a ball made of stone or +marble, larger than a boy's playing marble, which he throws up into the +air about an ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches away one of the +sticks, but in such a manner as not to miss catching the ball in its +fall, holding the stick in the same hand. He subsequently gathers +together, in his other hand, as many of the sticks as he has thus been +able to procure. If he fails in any respect, another person is to take +the ball, and proceed in the same manner, the former player resigning up +to him one of the sticks every time the ball is thrown, till no more +remain in his own possession. He who can take up all the sticks wins the +game. + +The following rules are to be observed. + +1. He who catches the ball, but not one of the sticks, must resign the +ball to another player, as well as he who has let it fall. + +2. He who takes up more than one stick at a time, must return what he +has taken. + +3. The adversary, that is, the last player, who could not succeed in +taking up all the sticks, is allowed to lay down as many as he pleases +of the sticks he has collected, and may arrange them according to his +fancy. It is usual to lay one upon another, in order to render the game +more difficult, the player being obliged to snatch up each separately; +which is not easy without taking two, when so situated, at once. + +4. When at length one person has taken up all the sticks, his adversary +is permitted to replace the two last of them upon the skin in any manner +he chooses. He commonly separates them as widely as possible. The person +who had previously gained the whole, is then required to take up both +these sticks at one throw of the ball, and if he fails he must give up +the game. Thus the victory is often lost by means of these two last +sticks. + +5. When the adversary fails of his aim, the other player is to take all +the sticks lying on the field, as well as those which, after having been +laid down by himself, were won by the other person, and the whole are to +be laid down again directly, in order to be taken up according to the +above rules. But he is no longer under any obligation himself to take up +the sticks which he has thus laid for his companion. + +The game called _Tablut_ is played with a checkered board, and +twenty-five pieces, or men, in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: Fig. 1, is the king, whose station is in the central +square or royal castle, called _konokis_ by the Laplanders, to which no +other person can be admitted.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes his subjects, +who, at the commencement of the game, are stationed in the eight +squares, adjoining to the royal castle, marked 2 and 3.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites, their adversaries, +who occupy the sixteen embroidered squares, (some of them marked 4 in +the cut,) situated four together in the middle of each side of the +field.] + +The vacant squares, distinguished by letters, may be occupied by any of +the pieces in the course of the game. + + +LAWS. + +1. Any piece may move from one square to another in a right line, as +from _a_ to _c_; but not corner-wise, or from _a_ to _e_. + +2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads of any other pieces that +may be in the way, or to move, for instance, from _b_ to _m_, in case +any were stationed at _e_ or _i_. + +3. If the king should stand in _b_, and no other piece in _e_, _i_, or +_m_, he may escape by that road, unless one of the Muscovites +immediately gets possession of one of the squares in question, so as to +interrupt him. + +4. If the king be able to accomplish this, the contest is at an end. + +5. If the king happens to be in _e_, and none of his own people or his +enemies either in _f_ or _g_, _i_ or _m_, his exit cannot be prevented. + +6. Whenever the person who moves the king perceives that a passage is +free, he must call out _raichi_, and if there be two ways open, +_tuichu_. + +7. It is allowable to move ever so far at once, in a right line, if the +squares in the way be vacant, as from _c_ to _n_. + +8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take it by turns to move. + +9. If any one man gets between two squares occupied by his enemies, he +is killed and taken off, except the king, who is not liable to this +misfortune. + +10. If the king, being in his own square or castle, is encompassed on +three sides by his enemies, one of them standing in each of three of the +squares numbered 2, he may move away by the fourth. If one of his own +people happens to be in this fourth square, and one of his enemies in +number 3 next to it, the soldier thus enclosed between his king and the +enemy is killed. If four of the enemy gain possession of the four +squares marked 2, thus enclosing the king, he becomes their prisoner. + +11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy in each of the adjoining squares, +_a_, _A_ and 3, he is likewise taken. + +12. Whenever the king is thus taken or imprisoned, the war is over, and +the conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the conquered party resigning all +the Muscovites that he had taken. + + * * * * * + +The Laplanders use the middle bark of the elm for dressing their +reindeer skins, but merely by chewing it, and rubbing their saliva on +the skins. + +They also tan with birch bark, but do not suffer the skins to remain +long under the operation, which they say would render them rotten and +apt to rend, neither can they spare them very long. + +White _walmal_ cloth is procured from Russia, but for want thereof they +commonly wear a light grey cloth of the same kind. + +Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir in the following manner. Choosing +the most slender roots, they scrape off the bark, while fresh, with the +back of a knife, holding the roots against the thigh. Afterwards each +root is first split with the knife into three or four parts, which are +then by degrees separated into a number of very slender fibres; and +these, being wrapped round the hand like a skain of thread, are tied +together. They are then boiled in a kettle for an hour or two, with a +considerable quantity of wood ashes. While still soft from this boiling, +they are laid across the knee, and scraped three or four times over with +a knife. At last they are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots serve in +like manner to afford cordage for the Laplanders, but more rarely. The +latter are more generally used, without being split, for basket-work. +For various articles of furniture the roots of _Tall_ (Scotch Fir, +_Pinus sylvestris_) are cut into small boards. The wood of that tree +serves for inferior kinds of work, and, amongst other things, for +cheese-vats. + +The Laplanders scrape with a knife the young and tender stalks of the +plant called _Jerja_, (_Sonchus alpinus_, _Sm. Plant. Ic._ _t._ 21.) and +eat them as a delicacy, like those of the great _Angelica_ (_A. +Archangelica_), which in the first year of their growth are termed +_Fatno_. + +A Laplander always places himself at the further part of his hut, and +his guest is seated next to him on a skin spread on purpose. The master +of the hut is by this means enabled to reach the vessel in which water +is kept for drink, and which always stands in the upper part of the hut. + +The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual stream both summer and winter. Now +if, according to the general opinion, the water of this river were +derived from exhalations of the great ocean, collected by the alps of +this country, it should cease to run when all the alpine tracts are +frozen. The stream must therefore be constantly fed by neighbouring +springs. + +The names by which the Laplanders distinguish the several times of the +day or night are as follows. + +Midnight is called in their language _kaskia_. The remainder of the +night before dawn, _pojela kaskia_. The morning dawn, _theleeteilyja_. +Sun-rise, _peivimorotak_. Two or three hours after sun-rise, _areiteet_. +The hour of milking the reindeer, which is about 8 or 9 o'clock, +_arrapeivi_. Noon, or dinner time, _kaskapeivi_. About 5 or 6 o'clock in +the afternoon, _eketis peivi_. Sunset, _peiveliti_. Night, _iä_. + +The days of the week are named as follows. + + Sunday, _Sotno peivi_. + + Monday, _Mannutaka_. + + Tuesday, _Tistaka_. + + Wednesday, _Kaska vacku_, or middle of the week. + + Thursday, _Tourestaka_. + + Friday, _Perietaka_. + + Saturday, _Lavutaka_. + +They have no names for the months, but certain weeks are distinguished +by the following appellations. + + Midsummer week, _Midtsomarvacku_. + + St. Peter's week, June 29, _Pelasmassu vacku_. + + Goose week, _Gassa vacku_. + + In the middle of the summer, _Gaskakis_. + + St. Margaret's, July 20, _Marcrit_. + + St. Olaus' mass, July 29, _Vollis_. + + (No date mentioned here.) _Vehak_. + + St. Laurence, Aug. 10, _Lauras_. + + Reindeer-fawn week, _Orryk_. When in a fawn two years old the horns + begin to bud. + + St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, _Barti_. + + (No date.) _Hoppmil_. + + St. Mary, Sept. 8, _Margi_. + + Holy Cross, Sept. 14, _Behawis_. + + St. Matthew, Sept. 21, _Matthus_. + + St. Michael, Sept. 29, _Michel_. + + (St. Faith, Oct. 6?) _Perkit_. + + (Middle of Oct.) _Talvi_. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed figure represents a Laplander's staff. It is tipped with a +blade of iron, as thick as the thumb. With this weapon he attacks the +bear and wolf in the time of deep snow. On the lower part of the shaft +is a sort of hoop, six inches in diameter, made of root of fir, and +fastened with thongs of reindeer skin, one of which passes through a +hole in the staff. At the bottom it is mounted with iron. The use of +this hoop is to prevent the staff from sinking into the snow, when used +as a walking-stick. The shaft itself, made of birch wood, is about four +feet long, and an inch and half thick. + +[Illustration] + +This sketch is taken from one of their snow shoes, made of wood. Its +length is six feet, from h to i; breadth, from k to g, five inches. The +hind part, i, is rather more obtuse than the other end, h, which last is +elevated about two or three inches. From h it gradually widens to f. The +part from c to d, where the foot stands, is about eight inches; its +breadth three. The under part of the shoe is convex, and furrowed +lengthwise; the upper flattish, raised about ten lines, and the edge all +round is sharp. At b is a band, made of fir root twisted, serving to tie +the shoe fast round the ancle. The general thickness of the shoe +throughout is from three to four lines. + +Some people wear a pair of the same size; others have the left shoe +smaller than the right. Each is often lined or covered, about the +central part, with a piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent the foot +slipping about upon the shoe, and give a firmer step in walking over the +snow. This is most practised in Kimi-Lapmark, where the wild reindeer +are most abundant. + +The Lapland thread is made out of the tendons of reindeer fawns half a +year old. Such thread is covered with tin foil for embroidery, its +pliability rendering it peculiarly fit for the purpose. The tendons are +dried in the sun, being hung over a stick. They are never boiled. + +To show to what a high degree of perfection these people have arrived in +the art of making such thread, I brought away a sample of it, which I +believe none of our ladies could match. + +Shoes and baskets made of birch bark are used both in Angermanland and +Helsingland, as well as ropes of the same material, which will not sink +in water, but these are not in general use. + +The bows which serve the Laplanders for shooting squirrels are composed +of two different kinds of wood, laid parallel to each other. The +innermost is birch, the outermost of what they term _kior_, _kioern_ or +_tioern_. (This is procured from a tree of the Common Fir, _Pinus +sylvestris_, that happens to grow in a curved form, usually in marshy +places, or on the banks of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard +like box: see _vol._ i. _p._ 255; also _Fl. Lapp. n._ 346, [lambda].) If +this be not practised, the bows are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood +is externally convex, yet not so much as to render the bow quite +cylindrical. + +When the Laplanders expect any visitors, they are particularly careful +to have plenty of _ris_ (branches of the dwarf birch) spread on the +floor, under the reindeer skins on which they sit; otherwise they would +be thought deficient in civility, and the mistress of the family would +be censured as a bad manager, when the guests returned to their own +homes. + +The mode of their entertainment is as follows. + +First, if the stranger arrives before their meat is set over the fire to +boil, they present him either with iced milk, or with some kind of +berries mixed with milk, or perhaps with cheese, or with _kappi_, (see +_vol._ i. _p._ 281.) Afterwards, when the meat is sufficiently cooked, +and they have taken it out of the pot, they put into the water, in which +it has been boiled, slices of cheese made of reindeer milk. This is a +testimony of hospitality, and that they are disposed to make their guest +as welcome as they can. They next serve up some of their dry or solid +preparations of milk. + +The marriages of the Laplanders are conducted in the following manner. +(This subject was treated in _vol._ i. _p._ 276, like Sterne's "history +of the king of Bohemia and his seven castles," no doubt to the great +dismay of the curious reader. We ought to have warned him of its being +resumed in a subsequent part of the work, but in truth we had not then +ourselves proceeded so far in deciphering the original manuscript.) + +1. In the first place the lover addresses his favourite fair-one in a +joking manner, to try whether his proposal be likely to prove acceptable +or not. Perhaps he even goes so far as to speak once or twice to her +father upon the subject. He then takes his leave, either fixing a time +for his return, or not, as it may happen. + +2. The lover next takes with him such of his nearest relations as live +in the neighbourhood, who, as well as himself, all carry provisions with +them, to the hut of his mistress, he going last in the procession. + +3. When the party arrive at the place of their destination, they all, +except the lover, walk in. If there happen to be any other huts near at +hand, it is usual for the damsel to retire to one of them, that she may +not be obliged to hear the conversation of the visitors. Her admirer +either remains on the outside of the door, amongst the reindeer, or goes +into some neighbouring hut. There are usually two or three spokesmen in +the party, the principal of whom is called _Sugnovivi_. When they are +all seated, the young man's father first presents some brandy to the +father of the young woman; upon which the latter asks why he treats him +with brandy? The former replies, "I am come hither with a good +intention, and I wish to God that it may prosper." He then declares his +errand. If the other party should not be favourably inclined to the +proposal, he rejects it, at the same time thanking the person who made +it. Upon this, all who are present endeavour to prevail upon him to give +his consent to the marriage. If they succeed, or in case the offer has +from the first been accepted, the friends of the lover fetch whatever +they have brought along with them, consisting of various utensils, and +silver coin, which they place on a reindeer skin, spread in the hut, +before the father and mother of the intended bride. The father or the +mother of the bridegroom then distributes the money between the young +woman and her parents. If the sum be thought too small, the latter ask +for more, and it frequently happens that much time is spent in +bargaining, before they can come to a conclusion. When the parties +concerned cannot obtain so large a sum as they think themselves entitled +to, they often reject the whole, and return the money to those who +brought it. But if, on the contrary, matters are brought to a favourable +conclusion, the parents allow their daughter to be sent for. Two of the +bridegroom's relations undertake this office. If the bride has any +confidential female friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm together; +and in this case the mother of the bridegroom is required to make a +present of a few brass rings, or something of that kind, to this friend +or sister, who keeps lamenting the loss of her companion. + +When the bride enters the hut, her father asks whether she is satisfied +with what he has done? To which she replies, that she submits herself to +the disposal of her father, who is the best judge of what is proper for +her. The mother of the bridegroom then presents the bride with the sum +allotted for her, laying it in her lap. If it proves less than she had +expected, she shows her dissatisfaction by various gestures, and signs +of refusal, in which case she may possibly obtain at least the promise +of a larger sum. All these gifts become her own property. + +When such pecuniary matters are finally arranged, the father and mother +of the bridegroom present him and his bride with a cup of brandy, of +which they partake together, and then all the company shake hands. They +afterwards take off their caps, and one of the company makes an +oration, praying for God's blessing upon the new-married couple, and +returning thanks to him who "gives every man his own wife, and every +woman her own husband." + +The parents of the bridegroom next partake of some brandy, and the whole +stock of that liquor which they had brought with them is fetched for the +company. + +All the relations of the bridegroom then come forward with their +provisions, which generally consist of several cheeses, and a piece of +meat dried and salted. The latter is roasted before the fire, while the +company is, in the mean while, regaled with some of the solid +preparations of milk, the bride and bridegroom eating by themselves, +apart from the rest. + +Two stewards are next chosen, one of them from the bride's party, the +other from that of the bridegroom. The last-mentioned party are then +required to furnish a quantity of raw meat, amounting to about a pound +and half to each person. This the stewards immediately set about +boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve it round to all present. +This meat is dressed in several separate pots, two only in each hut, if +there be any neighbours whose huts can serve to accommodate the party on +this occasion; for each Laplander has never more than one hut of his +own. The fat part of the broth is first served up in basons. Afterwards +various petticoats or blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on the +floor, by way of a table-cloth, on which the boiled meat is placed. The +chief persons of the company then, as many as can find room, take their +places in the hut of the bride's family, sitting down round the +provision, while the children and inferiors are accommodated in the +neighbouring huts. Grace is then said. The bride and bridegroom are +placed near together, for the most part close to the door, or place of +entrance. They are always helped to the best of the provision. The +company then serve themselves, taking their meat on the points of their +knives, and dipping each morsel into some of the fat broth, in which +the whole has been boiled, before they put it into their mouths. Numbers +of people assemble from the neighbourhood, to look in upon the company +through the door; and as they expect to share in the feast, the stewards +give them two or three bits of meat, according as they respect them more +or less. What remains after every body is satisfied, is put together, +and wrapped up in the blankets or cloths, that part of it which is left +by the new-married couple being kept separate from the rest, as no other +person is allowed to partake of their share. The dinner being over, the +whole company shake hands and return thanks for their entertainment. +They always shake hands with the bride and bridegroom in the first +place, and then with the rest, saying at the same time _kussl[)a]n_. + +After taking some brandy, the whole party go to bed. The herd of +reindeer had been turned out to pasture from the time when the meat was +put into the pot. The bride and bridegroom sleep together with their +clothes on. + +When the company rise in the morning, if the bridegroom's father and +their party have any thing left, they treat the others with it; for the +family of the bride have seldom any preparation made, not expecting, or +not being supposed to expect, such company, and they never keep any +brandy by them, but purchase it for every occasion. Whatever cold meat +therefore remains is brought forward, to which the bride's party indeed +add cheese, and any other preparation of milk they may have in store, as +well as any dried meat; such things being usually kept by them. With +these the party regale themselves by way of breakfast. Afterwards the +family of the bride boil some fresh meat, as a final repast for their +guests, who, after partaking of it, take their leave. + +The banns are usually published once. The marriage ceremony, which is +very short, is performed after the above-mentioned company is departed. +This being over, the bridegroom either takes his wife immediately home +with him, or he goes to his own hut alone, and stays there from one to +five days, after which he returns to her residence, bringing with him +his herd of reindeer, and stays there for some time with her. + +Such of the Laplanders as are rich enough to afford it, make their wives +a present of a coverlet; a petticoat made of cloth, without any gathers, +as usual among these people; a small silver beaker or cup; several +rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon, &c.; so that many a bride costs +her husband more than a hundred dollars, copper money. To the mother he +perhaps gives a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat. + +I have already mentioned that the Laplanders eat _Angelica_ +(_sylvestris_) in a raw state. This plant, which the inhabitants of +Westbothland call _Bioernstut_, has so many names among the Laplanders, +according to the different stages of its growth, as to cause much +confusion to a stranger. The first year of its growth they term the root +_Urtas_, and the leaves _Fadno_; but the second year the plant is known +by the name of _Posco_ or _Botsk_. When the stalk is dried, or eaten +raw, they call it _Rasi_, that is, grass. They say, when any one has +eaten more of this plant than is good for him, "_Elli rasi ist purro +etnach_," the meaning of which is, "Thou hast overloaded thyself with +such a quantity of grass." + +Another herb of which they are very fond is the Sowthistle with a simple +stem, known by the name of _Jerja_. (_Sonchus alpinus._ _Fl. Lapp ed._ +2. 240. _Sm. Pl. Ic. t._ 21. _S. lapponicus._ _Willd. Sp. Pl._ _v._ 3. +1520.) This has a perennial root. The stem is erect, round, green, +smooth, except a few soft scattered hairs, which are most remarkable +towards the top and bottom, and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves about +twelve or fourteen, half clasping the stem, gradually smaller upwards, +nearly the shape of Dandelion, or of the common Sowthistle, one half of +each leaf, consisting of the terminal lobe, making exactly an acute +triangle, toothed at the edges; from that part downwards the leaf +contracts, but not to the main rib, and then again expands into two +narrow appendages, as it were, equal in breadth, but unequal in length, +which are crenate at their edges. From thence begins the stalk of the +leaf, which is winged and toothed, and half embraces the stem. The +leaves are thin and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper side, and the +upper ones are the least divided, as well as the bluntest. The flowers +are collected into a corymbus, somewhat like Butterbur, but more +loosely, especially in the lower part, each supported by a very short +stalk, accompanied by a very narrow oblong leaf which extends beyond the +flower. The calyx consists of several oblong, narrow, acute, imbricated +leaves, varying in number from fourteen to twenty, the outermost +gradually shortest, but the ten innermost are equal in length, and +blunter than the rest, composing two rows; the calyx altogether is +shorter than the corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Florets equal in +number to the leaves of the calyx. Germen short, square, crowned with +long white radiating down. Petal flat, cut away on one side, +violet-coloured, five-toothed. Stamens five, white, their apex (anther) +cylindrical, five-sided, white, marked with five blue lines. Pistil one, +forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dotted. This plant grows among +trees at the sides of mountains, along with the narrow-hooded Aconite +(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), flowering at the end of July or beginning of +August. The stem, which is milky, is eaten by the Laplanders in the same +manner as Angelica. The taste was to me very bitter, but the people of +the country do not find it so, though they confessed that it appeared +bitter to them when they first learned to eat it. As soon as the plant +shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody, and no longer eatable. + +The sinews of which the fine thread is made that, when covered with tin, +serves for embroidery, and is called _tentråd_ (tin-thread), are taken +from the feet of the reindeer, or of oxen, boiled; though sometimes the +feet of sea-fowl are chosen for this purpose. Old women and girls are +employed in preparing this thread, by drawing it through holes made in a +piece of reindeer's horn. They wind it round their hands and feet as +they form it, and smear it with fat extracted from the foot of the +animal, to make it more supple, as they proceed. + +Hay is made in different modes in various parts of Sweden. In +Westbothland the fresh-cut grass is heaped together over night, that it +may get a heat. Next day it is spread out, and by this method its +quality is supposed to become richer and stronger. The same is practised +with hops in Jamtland, where the fresh-gathered hops are packed +together, as hard as possible, till they become warm; after which they +are spread out to dry. Their strength is by this means improved. + +The people of Scania having mowed their grass, let it lie till dry, when +they rake it together. + +The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed. + +The East Gothlanders range it in heaps, two and two together, in a long +row. + +In Upland the new-mown grass is tied up in bundles, and collected into +cocks. + +In Angermannia the whole year's crop is laid by upon a kind of raised +floor. + +In Westbothland, after being dried in the shed, the hay is kept there +for use, being laid crosswise, and cut when wanted[4]. + + +_July 23._ + +This evening I took leave of the alpine part of Lapland, and returned +by water from Hyttan towards Lulea. + +The White, or Mountain, Fox (_Canis lagopus_) lives among the alps, +feeding on the Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, (_Mus Lemmus_,) as well as on +the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_). This White Fox is smaller than the +common kind. The Ptarmigan, which the Laplanders call _Cheruna_, feeds +on the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), which for that reason is called +_Ryprys_, or Ptarmigan-bush. At night this bird lies squat upon the +snow, in the same posture as the Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_, see +_vol._ 1. 179): hence a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints it +makes in the snow. This mode of roosting renders the Ptarmigan an easy +prey to the Fox. + +The Lemming or Red Mouse, see _p._ 18, (_Mus Lemmus_,) in some seasons +entirely overruns the country; devouring the corn and grass: but though +these animals thus occasionally appear by millions at a time, they +subsequently depart and disappear as unaccountably, so that nobody knows +what becomes of them. They do no mischief in the houses. + +The Ermine (_Mustela Erminea_) is white in winter, red in summer. This +animal is seldom met with on the alps, but is very plentiful in the +forests. Foxes and Wolves have destroyed the chief of the Hares. The +Wolves indeed kill the Foxes. + +The Shrew Mouse (_Sorex araneus_) and Common Small Mouse (_Mus +Musculus_) are found in Lapmark, but no Rats (_Mus Rattus_). + +Hunting the Bear is often undertaken by a single man, who, having +discovered the retreat of the animal, takes his dog along with him and +advances towards the spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round with a +cord, to prevent his barking, and the man holds the other end of this +cord in his hand. As soon as the dog smells the bear, he begins to show +signs of uneasiness, and by dragging at the cord informs his master that +the object of his pursuit is at no great distance. When the Laplander +by this means discovers on which side the bear is stationed, he advances +in such a direction that the wind may blow from the bear to him, and not +the contrary; for otherwise the animal would by the scent be aware of +his approach, though not able to see an enemy at any considerable +distance, being half blinded by the sunshine. When he has gradually +advanced to within gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him; and this is +the more easily accomplished in autumn, as the bear is then more +fearless, and is continually prowling about for berries of different +kinds, on which he feeds at that season of the year. Should the man +chance to miss his aim, the furious beast will directly turn upon him in +a rage, and the little Laplander is obliged to take to his heels with +all possible speed, leaving his knapsack behind him on the spot. The +bear coming up with this, seizes upon it, biting and tearing it into a +thousand pieces. While he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all +his attention, upon the knapsack, the Laplander takes the opportunity +of loading his gun, and firing a second time; when he is generally sure +of hitting the mark, and the bear either falls upon the spot or runs +away. + + +_July 24._ + +In the huts of this neighbourhood I observed an instrument which I had +no where noticed before, consisting of an oblong board, placed +transversely at the end of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while +boiling. + +Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the west, and on the south of the +mountain of Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but hardly worth +working while the roads, by which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are in +so bad a state. + +This night I beheld a star, for the first time since I came within the +arctic circle. Nevertheless the darkness was not considerable enough to +prevent my reading or writing whatever I pleased. + +One of the Laplanders had caught a quantity of the fish called +_Sikloja_ (_Salmo Albula_) of a large size. He stuck about twenty of +them on one spit, the back of each being placed towards the belly of the +next, and they were thus roasted before the fire. These fish had +previously been dried, though not at all salted. + +The glue used by the Laplanders for joining the two portions of +different woods of which their bows are made (see _p._ 66,) is prepared +from the Common Perch (_Perca fluviatilis_) in the following manner. +Some of the largest of this fish being flayed, the skins are first +dried, and afterwards soaked in a small quantity of cold water, so that +the scales can be rubbed off. Four or five of these skins being wrapped +up together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch bark, so that no water +can get at them, are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil, a stone +being laid over the pot, to keep in the heat. The skins thus prepared +make a very strong glue, insomuch that the articles joined with it will +never separate again. A bandage is tied round the bow while making, to +hold the two parts the more firmly together. + +When these people undertake a short journey only, they carry no bag for +provisions, the latter being stored between their outer and inner +jackets, which are always bound with a girdle, being wide, and formed of +numerous folds, both above and below it. + +The Purple Willow-herb, or _Epilobium_ (_angustifolium_?) made the +fields at this time very beautiful. The Golden-rod (_Solidago +Virgaurea_) was likewise here in blossom, though not yet upon the alps, +where it flowers later. + +I have never yet seen any animal swim so light as the reindeer. During +the dogdays the herds of reindeer, belonging to the inhabitants of the +woody parts of Lapland, are very badly off for want of snow, with which +those animals refresh themselves in hot weather upon the alps. Hence +they constitute a more valuable and thriving property to the alpine +Laplanders than to any others. In the winter time, when the favourite +Lichen of the reindeer (_L. rangiferinus_) cannot be got at, their +keepers fell trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to serve them for +food; but it scarcely proves sufficient. + +The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a very white appearance, as if milk +had been mixed with it. This the inhabitants term _kalkwatter_, or +lime-water, from the colour, not from any knowledge of its cause or +origin. This rivulet they told me came from the alps. It empties itself +into the great river near Kiomitis, and renders the water of that river +white for the space of four or five miles. I noticed a similar +phænomenon at Wirijaur. + +I was amused with the mode in which these Laplanders take brandy. After +they have laid hold of the mug, they dip their forefingers into the +liquor, and rub a little on their foreheads, as well as on the middle of +their bosoms. On inquiring the reason, I was told their intention was +that the brandy might not prove hurtful either to the head or breast. + +Some people here were regaling themselves with fresh fish, of the kind +lately mentioned (_Salmo Albula_), which having boiled into a mass like +pap or flummery, they were eating out of their hands. + +The dress of the Laplanders is, in one particular at least, very wisely +contrived. Their thick collars effectually protect the throat and +breast, which being furnished with numerous nerves and small muscles, +and being the seat of the windpipe and of many principal veins and +arteries, are very important and susceptible parts. The neck moreover, +from its slender shape, is peculiarly exposed to cold. Hence the +protection of clothing is found very necessary to the parts in question. +For want of it our young women suffer much injury, which our youths +avoid by running into the contrary extreme of tying their neckcloths so +tight as to make themselves as red in the face as if they were half +strangled. + +We Swedes are accustomed to have all our clothing made very tight. Not +only the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings, +sleeves, &c., must all stick close to the body, and the tighter they are +the more fashionable. The Laplanders, on the contrary, wear only two, +and those slight, bandages about them, which moreover are broad, and +therefore less injurious than a narrow bandage in any part. Those to +which I allude are the waistband and knees of their breeches, both made +sufficiently loose and easy. + +To-day I gathered the following plants.--A reed-like panicled Grass, +with a very slender branched stem. (This appears to have been _Arundo +Calamagrostis_, _Fl. Lapp._ _n._ 42.) + +A great aquatic _Carex_, with inflated, whitish, pendulous spikes. In +more dry situations they were upright and shorter, but in every other +particular the same. (_C. vesicaria._) A grass with a slender +dark-coloured panicle, approaching the stem. (_Agrostis rubra_, _Fl. +Lapp._ _n._ 46.) + + +_July 25._ + +The lakes in this part of the country did not afford me so many plants +as further south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and destitute of +vegetation. Their shores were no less barren. No Water-lilies +(_Nymphææ_), no Water-docks, &c., (different species of _Rumex_,) grew +about their borders, but the surface of the water itself was covered +with the Water Ranunculus (_R. aquatilis_), bearing round as well as +capillary leaves, and whitening the whole with its blossoms. I could not +but wonder to see these broad patches of white spread over the lakes, +though, when I passed up the country but a fortnight before, I had not +perceived the least appearance of even the herbage of the _Ranunculus_ +that composed them. Now its branches, an ell in length, swam on the +surface. The growth of the stem must be very rapid, as it often +proceeded from a depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants thrown up on +the shore had capillary leaves, as are all those which grow under the +water. The root resembles that of the _Iris_. + +I noticed also the Pondweed with leaves clasping the stem (_Potamogeton +perfoliatum_, rare in Lapland); and a very large branched floating +Water-grass, with cylindrical spikes, which I hesitate whether to +separate from the _Gramen aquaticum geniculatum spicatum_, (of Bauhin +and Rudbeck. _Alopecurus geniculatus_ of Linnæus. The grass of which he +here speaks is _n._ 38 of his _Flora Lapponica._ _A. geniculatus_ +[beta], _Sp. Pl._ 89.) + +The annexed figure represents the Norwegian cross-bow, used for shooting +squirrels, which it will hit at the distance of twenty or thirty paces +as certainly as a gun. + +It was curious to observe the dexterity with which one of the +Laplanders hit a small fly, which I had set up for a mark, at the +distance of thirty paces. + +[Illustration] + +The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is two feet and a half long, two +inches wide in the middle, gradually sloping off to the extremities, +which are only one inch in width. Each end is rounded, with a notch, +where the cord is fixed, which, when the bow is drawn, seems in danger +of immediately slipping off, but it never does. The whole bow when at +rest makes a curve of two inches; when strongly bent it forms one of +seven. + +The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is made of twisted hemp, as thick +as one's finger, bound round with hempen thread, especially in the +middle, where it is to receive the bolt. + +The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented with inlaid work of bone, is two +feet and a half long, and half a palm broad, being half an inch thick +towards the top, and an inch at the base. Its upper side is entirely +covered with the above-mentioned inlaying, and quite even or flat, +except towards the base or handle, where it is slightly concave. + +The part marked d on the bow, and D on a larger scale annexed, is the +catch, like a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and in the side of +which is a projection, with a rectangular notch, see _fig._ 1 and 2. +When the bow is bent, the angle at _fig._ 2 catches the cord, and is let +go by means of the apparatus represented at c, c, by the side. + +As no human being is sufficiently strong to draw this bow with the hands +alone, a strap of leather is fixed round the loins, ending in two iron +hooks, which lay hold of the cord. One foot is put into the strap at the +top of the bow, h, and then, by the exertion of the body, the bow is +drawn till the cord catches the angle of the pulley D. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed cut represents the bolt of this Norwegian crossbow, which is +a foot and half long, an inch thick. From the extremity, which is +thicker and blunt, to the feathered part, is about a foot. The feathers, +taken from the wing of the great Grous or Cock of the wood, (_Tetrao +Urogallus_,) are stripped from the quill, and placed erect in three +longitudinal rows; and after being bound on with thread, the part by +which they are attached is smeared with pitch, to fix them the more +firmly. The whole bolt is made of birch wood. Its base is compressed, +naked and smooth, formed with a groove to receive the bow-string. + +This more finished and elaborate sort of bow is principally used in +Westbothnia. The whole cost of one, with all its appurtenances, amounts +to fifteen dollars, copper money. The Laplanders therefore content +themselves with a far more rude and simple apparatus, consisting of such +a wooden bow made of birch, as I have already described, with a string +fitted to it. Or they merely cut a branch of fir in the forest, and with +any bit of cord that happens to come in their way, kill abundance of +squirrels, holding the bow with their left hand, and drawing it with +their right by means of a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I have +witnessed, take successful aim at the _Emberiza nivalis_, or Snow +Bunting, sitting on the tops of the most lofty pines. + +It is commonly reported that no clay is to be found in Lapland, but I +met with some in two different places; in each instance indeed it was at +the bottom of a lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask, the shores +being of sand though the bottom was clay. + +Nets are set in the lakes in winter to catch the Sijk fish (_Salmo +Lavaretus_, or Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose in the ice, +and the nets are dragged with a string. This is done from St. Andrew's +day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas. + +The Laplanders make their sledges serve for chests, when they are not +used for their proper purpose, by constructing a sort of roof or convex +covering, with an opening in the middle, to admit whatever they choose +to store up within. This opening shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in +this state occasionally serve for the conveyance of goods from one place +to another, the covering keeping them dry. + +Caps are made of the skin of the _Colymbus arcticus_, (Black-throated +Diver,) which is very tough when properly prepared. This bird has a grey +ring round its neck, as described by Wormius. + +I met with a _Carex_, bearing round capsules, full of black powder. +(Probably _Carex panicea_, whose seeds are often infected with the +_ustilago_ or smut.) + + +_July 26._ + +I shall here give a description of the _Achier_ or sledge. This is a +kind of travelling machine invented by the Laplanders, drawn along the +ground like other sledges, and made of birch wood. The back part is +upright, or nearly so, the lower part only being somewhat sloping +inwards, and its form is roundish, the height a foot, the breadth a foot +and a half. The body of the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with an +obtuse keel, and consists of five longitudinal boards on each side, +lying one over the edge of another; that which forms the keel being +about an inch thick, and lying flat like the others. Each board is not +externally plane, but convex, so that as the carriage is drawn over the +snow it leaves several tracks or lines where it goes, the board which +forms the keel only being quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at one +extremity in a circular manner to the roundish board that makes the +back, (or as it were the stern,) are collected by their points at the +other, and all bound together with a rope, for there are no nails to +fasten them. The whole carriage is six feet in length, and from the back +part to within two feet of the front its breadth is all the way about +four feet. From that spot the keel begins to curve upwards, and the +transverse dimensions are contracted gradually to a point. This sledge +is drawn by a rope that goes through a hole in the front of the keel. +The edges or sides of the machine do not curve outwards, but rather +inwards. When any covering is to be put on, which is always done in part +when any person is to travel sitting in this carriage, and entirely, +from one end to the other, when it is intended to be used for the +conveyance of goods, two or three semicircular or archlike bows are +erected, fixed by their ends within the edges of the carriage, which +serve to support a covering of seal-skin, or cloth, whose margin next +the back is loose, and so far distant from that part as to allow the +traveller to sit upright, his legs lying under the cover, while the said +margin is tied round his waist, like an apron, serving to keep the snow +out of the hollow part of the machine. The person of the traveller is +further secured by strings fixed to the edges of the carriage, which +lace around him across the top, so as to prevent his being thrown out by +any oblique or unexpected movement. Each board, which composes the body +of the sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside, but still the whole +internal surface is sufficiently smooth and even. The point in front +sometimes projects a foot beyond the hollow part[5]. + +It is worthy of notice that the Laplanders use no almanack, but in its +stead only a kind of instrument like the ancient runic calendar of the +Goths, composed of seven small splinters or boards. They have indeed +names to mark some periods, as already mentioned p. 62; but they do not, +like us, compute time by the month, but by the course of their various +holidays. They have also a name for every week. They are unable to tell +when an eclipse of the sun or moon is to be expected. The year begins, +by their reckoning, on the Friday before Christmas day. + +The people in the part of the country where I was now travelling wear, +in summertime, either a coat of walmal cloth next the skin, or no coat +at all, only a _lappmudd_ as they call it, (or garment of +reindeer-skin,) stripped of its hair. + +At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where we in vain attempted to procure a +boat. We had no resource but to make ourselves a float or raft, on which +we committed our persons and all our property to the guidance of the +current of the river. The night proved very dark in consequence of a +thick fog, insomuch that we could not see before us to the distance of +three fathoms. After a while we found ourselves in the middle of the +stream, and it was not long before the force of the water separated the +timbers of our raft, and we were in imminent danger of our lives. At +length however, with the greatest difficulty, we reached a house +situated on an island, after a voyage of half a mile from where we +embarked[6]. + +At Purkijaur I hired a man to show me the manner of fishing for pearls, +for which I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made a raft of five +timbers as thick as my body, and two fathoms in length. At each end was +a staple to which the anchor was attached. This anchor was nothing more +than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch that it might not be lost, +to which he fastened a cord, about two fathoms in length, made of birch +twigs. He was likewise furnished with a pole of the same length, which +served him to steer his raft, as it floated along the strong current. +The bottom of the river is not easily seen at any great depth; but when +he could distinctly perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor, fixing the +upper end of the rope to the staple on the raft, by which it became +stationary. Whenever he wished to examine another spot, he weighed +anchor, and resigned himself to the force of the current. Where the +water was shallow, he stood upright on his raft; but where the depth was +considerable, he lay at full length, with his face downwards, looking +over the edge of the raft. + +By means of a pair of wooden pincers, two fathoms in length, he laid +hold of the pearl oysters (rather muscles, _Mya margaritifera_,) and +drew them up. The part of the pincers below the joint or hinge was about +a span long, and of three fingers breadth, hollowed out at the points, +one of which was curved, the other flat. Taking the other end of these +pincers in his hands, he easily directed them to the spot where he saw +the shells lying. + +The latter were generally open, so that they might readily be discerned +by the whiteness of their inside; but when the water is very much +agitated, the animals immediately close their shells, though destitute +of eyes or ears. + +The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong, with a contraction, or +shallow notch as it were, about the middle of their outer margin. The +man opened them by means of a whilk shell, which he thrust with violence +between the valves, for it is impossible to effect this with the finger +only. He introduced the point of the whilk in the centre of the base, or +broader end, of the muscle, searching for the pearls chiefly towards the +other end, on the inside of the valve. If the inside of the latter be +white, the pearl is white; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is of the +same colour. + +When it was first discovered that this neighbourhood produced pearls, +the river at Purkijaur was the place where the principal pearl-fishery +was established. But now it is nearly exhausted. When the discovery of +this bed of pearl muscles was first made, it is said the shells were in +such abundance that nobody could reach the bottom of them, which is far +from being the case at present. + +There is no external sign about the shell, by which it is possible to +know whether it contains a pearl or not. Consequently many thousands are +destroyed to no purpose before one pearl is found. It is also a great +pity that all the muscles are killed in consequence of this examination. +Each pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose. They are found at +all seasons of the year, and are sometimes thrown out of the shell +spontaneously by its inhabitant. + +I witnessed at this place what appeared to me a very extraordinary +phenomenon, a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was found a young duck +entire. The peasant who was my companion told me he had many times seen +the same thing. + + +_July 27._ + +The reindeer fed with evident avidity on the great water Horsetail +(_Equisetum fluviatile_), which the Laplanders call _Aske_, though it +was in a dry state, and though they will not eat common hay. How +unaccountably negligent are the Laplanders, not to collect in the +course of summer a stack of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_) for winter fodder! They would then have some provision +for the herd, when the country is covered with an impenetrable crust of +frozen snow, and not hazard the loss of all they are worth in the world. + +The inhabitants of Westbothnia, to defend themselves against the bites +of gnats, besmear their skin with a mixture of tar and fish-grease, or +some other kind of fat. They keep this composition in a horn which hangs +at their side. The Laplanders however give themselves no trouble about +any such matter. + +In order to add to the pungency of the tobacco which they are in the +habit of chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the root of _Angelica_. +(_A. Archangelica_ is preferred, but when that is not at hand, the +_sylvestris_ is used, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_.) + +The women wear their belts in the same manner as the men, except when +they are big with child, in which case the belt must necessarily be +placed much higher than ordinary. + +This day I found the little heart-leaved _Ophrys_ (_O. cordata_) +growing, as it usually does, amongst the _Rubus Chamæmorus_, whilst I +was gathering the fruit of the latter. Also the least _Pinguicula_ (_P. +villosa_); but its leaves were withered, and the fruit was ripe, which +is heartshaped and emarginate, of two valves and one cell. The +last-mentioned plant grew among White-moss (_Sphagnum palustre._ These +specimens are still preserved in the Linnæan herbarium.) + +The bird called (by the Swedes) Lappskata, Rödfogel in Westbothland, +Gvousach in Lapland, (_Corvus infaustus_, _Faun. Suec._ 32. _Lath. Ind._ +159. _Lanius infaustus_, _Syst. Nat._ _v._ 1. 138,) is of a small size, +but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it can find, being so far from +timid that it flew away with part of our provisions as we sat at table. +This bird seems nearly allied to the Jay (_Corvus glandarius_). + +It is only in winter the clothes of the Laplanders have any sort of +lining, except that these people generally wear, next the stomach, the +skin of a young reindeer fawn. The sleeves of their coats are not fixed +to the jacket, or body of the garment. The part which covers the +shoulder folds over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of a wedge. A +seam reaches the whole length of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each +side, the jacket becoming gradually wider, downward. It reaches as low +as the middle of the leg. The collar is for the most part blue, stitched +with white thread. + +The reindeer are not slaughtered in the same manner as cattle usually +are either at Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal being secured with a +halter, the Laplander takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax +behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the heart. By this means the blood +collects in the cavity of the thorax, none of it appearing externally. +After the skin is flayed off, the blood is found coagulated in the +thorax, from whence it is extracted, and bruised into a soft mass. With +this the poorer sort of people make a kind of soup, by boiling along +with it the brains of the animal, which the rich do not eat. The +testicles are never eaten by any sort of people. The _penis_ serves to +make a thong to draw the sledges. + +Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the forests go to the alps at +midsummer and return about St. Laurence's day (August 10th); and the +mountain Laplanders descend into the lower country between the first of +November and Christmas, and go back again about Lady-day. + +All kinds of clothing made of skins are sewed with sinews of animals, as +before described; but those of walmal cloth, with hempen thread +purchased from the neighbouring countries. + + +_July 28._ + +To-day I found the _Pseudo-helleborine_; (possibly _Cypripedium +Calceolus_, not before mentioned in this journal.) + +All the little rills and rivulets hereabouts produced a _Potamogeton_, +which I was doubtful whether to distinguish from the common kind, as it +varies excessively in appearance, but the leaves are more grassy. (_P. +gramineum_, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_, yet nothing can be +less like the "common kind," if by the latter be meant the _natans_, +which, with the _perfoliatum_ and _gramineum_, compose the catalogue of +species in _Fl. Lapp._) + +Hereabouts grew the _Juncus_ with three seeds (_capsules_) at the top of +the stem, which also I observed to be sometimes reflexed. (_J. +triglumis_; see _Fl. Lapp._ ed. 2. 90.) + +Several days ago the forests had been set on fire by lightning, and the +flames raged at this time with great violence, owing to the drought of +the season. In many different places, perhaps in nine or ten that came +under my notice, the devastation extended several miles' distance. I +traversed a space three quarters of a mile in extent which was entirely +burnt, so that Flora, instead of appearing in her gay and verdant +attire, was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhorrent to my feelings +than to see her clad in the white livery of winter, for this, though it +destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in safety, which the fire does +not. The fire was nearly extinguished in most of the spots we visited, +except in ant-hills, and dry trunks of trees. After we had travelled +about half a quarter of a mile across one of these scenes of desolation, +the wind began to blow with rather more force than it had done, upon +which a sudden noise arose in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only +compare to what may be imagined among a large army attacked by an enemy. +We knew not whither to turn our steps. The smoke would not suffer us to +remain where we were, nor durst we turn back. It seemed best to hasten +forward, in hopes of speedily reaching the outskirts of the wood; but +in this we were disappointed. We ran as fast as we could, in order to +avoid being crushed by the falling trees, some of which threatened us +every minute. Sometimes the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden, that we +stood aghast, not knowing whither to turn to escape destruction, and +throwing ourselves entirely on the protection of Providence. In one +instance a large tree fell exactly between me and my guide, who walked +not more than a fathom from me, but, thanks to God! we both escaped in +safety. We were not a little rejoiced when this perilous adventure +terminated, for we had felt all the while like a couple of outlaws, in +momentary fear of surprise. + +I have long ago related my sufferings from gnats in the course of my +Lapland expedition. In this place I was still more incommoded by some +very small flies, about a line in length and very narrow. Their breast +was of a blueish grey. Front of the head whitish, with black eyes. +Wings pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and narrow. A white scale was +placed on each side at the insertion of the wings. The legs were black, +with a white joint in the middle of each, the base being speckled. The +hind part of the shoulders was whitish. _Antennæ_ simple, minute, +parallel, and pointing right forward. The wings lay one over the other +so as to resemble a single one, notched at the extremity, when the +insect was at rest. Each of us was beset by a whole legion of these +flies towards sun-set. What rendered them peculiarly troublesome was +their manner of running over the face, and flying into the nose, mouth +and eyes. When they were approaching in order to inflict their bite, +they were not to be driven away by our blowing ever so hard. The +Laplanders call these insects _Mockere_, alluding to the smallness of +their head; the Swedes _Knott_. (_Culex reptans._ Linnæus mentions in +the _Fauna Suecica_ the extremely tiresome noise made by these gnats in +their approach.) They covered our linen so as to render it quite black. +It was to no purpose to attempt to drive them away. (See _v._ 1. 208.) + +I visited the Laxholms, islands so called from the salmon fishery. Here +the Common Salmon (_Salmo Salar_, named _Lax_ by the Swedes,) is found +with the under jaw occasionally hooked, which variety is termed +_Kroklax_, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired whether this hooked kind was +esteemed a distinct species, or whether a difference arising from age; +to both which questions I was answered in the negative. I was shown fish +of the smallest size, which had in proportion as large a hook to the +lower jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore fallen into an error in +his dissertation upon salmon. (_Daniel Bonge_, _Dissertatio de Salmonum +naturâ_, _corumque apud Ostrobothnienses piscatione_, _Upsal._ 1730. +4to. under the presidency of Professor Roberg, with wooden cuts.) I +inquired whether the hooked salmon were furnished with roe or with milt. +I was answered that they had always milt. On opening seven of them I +found this verified, whereas four salmon which were not hooked had all +of them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon is so called, because the +point of its lower jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form, resembling +a finger; while on the contrary the upper is furnished with a cavity to +receive that point, embracing it like a sheath, for about half its +length. The female fish has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less +inflexed, there being only a very slight furrow in the upper one; so +that the two sexes may be distinguished from each other by these marks +from the earliest age. + +Those who fish for salmon come to this place about a fortnight before +midsummer, and remain till St. Bartholomew's day, August 24th, as during +that space of time the salmon keep ascending the river. After the day +last mentioned none of the fishermen remain. Few of the fish escape +being taken, so as to return down the river. At Michaelmas the fishermen +come here again, when they catch a smaller sort of salmon. + +This day I observed the harvest beginning. The corn now cutting, though +sown but a few days before midsummer, was nevertheless quite ripe. The +lent rye was not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the winter rye ripens +some time before the other corn. Thus it appears that corn (barley) +springs up and ripens at this place in the space of sixty days. + +In my walks I gathered the berries of the Strawberry-leaved Bramble +(_Rubus arcticus_), which proved delicious. They have somewhat of the +flavour of Blackberries (_Rubus fruticosus_), but are more agreeable. +This fruit does not separate from its calyx like other specie of its +genus. It is a compound berry, in size and structure somewhat between +what the Smolanders call _Kodden_ (_Rubus saxatilis_), and Raspberries +(_R. idæus_). Its colour is a brownish crimson. + +The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ is perennial, with scales, not +a fibrous tuft or beard, at the root[7]. The stem is round, not +quadrangular. Calyx five-cleft[8]. Lower lip regular, divided into three +equal segments. + +_Pedicularis_ with a purple head (_Bartsia alpina._ _Linn. Sp. Pl._ 839. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 361. _Euphrasia._ _Fl. Lapp. n._ 246.) shows an affinity +to the _Crista Galli_ (_Rhinanthus_) in its calyx, which is divided into +four equal acute segments. The fruit is ovate and acute, compressed at +the point. Lower lip straight. All the other _Pediculares_, except +_Sceptrum Carolinum_, have an oblique fruit. + +Here and there grew specimens of Heath (_Erica vulgaris_) with tufted +branches, looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very beautiful. + +The water of the river now began to decrease, in consequence of which it +became clearer, and it was more difficult to catch any fish. + +Scarcely any species of _Carex_ was to be found this season but what had +some degree of smut or _ustilago_ about its spikes, consisting of little +globular black bodies, changing to dust. + + +_July 29._ + +Tanning of leather is thus performed by the Laplanders. + +The scaly cuticle of the birch being first stripped off, the bark is +then scraped from the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about as long +a time as is requisite to boil fish; being afterwards set by to cool, to +a certain degree, that it may not injure the hide by being too hot. The +latter, having previously been scalded, by dipping into luke-warm water, +is then soaked in the decoction of bark, and the vessel containing it +sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the extremity of the hut. The +hide is taken out every day, and softened in luke-warm water, till the +hair becomes loose, when it is scraped off by such a knife as tanners +use. The skin is then replaced in the tan when cool, without any +previous drying, till the third day after the hair comes off, when it is +hung up to dry in the shade. When the leather is but half dry, they +often cut it up for shoes, which are always made by the women, without +any last. The thread used for the purpose is that made of tendons. + +Some persons never scald the hide, but scrape off the hair with a knife, +soak it a little in water, and then plunge it into the tan. + +Near Swartlär I noticed a mineral spring, but whatever may be its +qualities, nobody has yet made any inquiries concerning them. + +The river Lulea divides into two branches, not far above the bounds of +Lapmark and Westbothnia, one of which is called the little river Lulea, +whose origin is among the mountains towards Hyttan, the other Stor +Lulea, running from the alps in Nörbattra. + + +_July 30._ + +On examining the cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), I found the +structure of the female as follows. Calyx consisting of an universal +involucrum of four leaves, and a partial one, likewise of four ovate +leaves, containing eight florets, each of which has an ovate spatha, of +a very large size with respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Petals +none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas acute. Seed-vessel none, the base +of the spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary. + +The shore of the river Lulea produced, in excessive abundance, the Water +Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_); likewise the Aquatic Dwarf Plantain +(_Limosella aquatica_). The Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here +grew above other plants, twisting its leaves round them, like a sort of +bindweed. (_Alopecurus geniculatus_ [beta]. _Sp. Pl._ 89. See _Fl. Lapp. +n._ 38.) + +The Water Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_) proved no less plentiful by the +sides of the roads. + +In the river I gathered an herb, which I was doubtful whether to refer +to _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), to _Potamogeton_, or to the _Aponogeton_ +of Pontedera. (This appears to have been the latter, _Zannichellia +palustris_.) + +I reached the old town of Lulea in the evening. + +It rained and thundered violently during the whole night. + + +_July 31._ + +This day I had intended to prosecute my journey towards Tornea, but a +heavy rain, with tremendous thunder and lightning, confined me entirely +to the house. + +The wife of the principal clergyman of Lulea, on whose accuracy I have +the greatest possible dependance, assured me that she had, at the +posthouse of Biorsiö, in the parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large +quantities of the Yellow Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_; see vol. 1. +36), collected and boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage. This +astonished her very much, as she knew it to be used in Jemtland to +poison flies. When she expressed her apprehensions about eating of this +herb, the maid-servant laughed at her, telling her it was much too good +to be so slighted. + +Hares are always hunted in this part of the country, and the dogs are +trained not to bark. If they offend in this respect they are sure of a +beating. + + +_August 1._ + +I found some Truffles (_Lycoperdon Tuber_) between Heden and Swartlä. + +Near the road grew _Glaux_ (_maritima_), as well as the Narrow-leaved +Sea Plantain (_Plantago maritima_), and Small-leaved _Angelica_ (_A. +sylvestris_). On a bank I observed _Triticum maritimum_. (This last is +thought by Dr. Afzelius to be _Elymus arenarius_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2 +_n._ 34.) + +Here various plants, which I had found blossoming at Um[oe]a, were now +laden with fruit, as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Vaccinia_ +(Whortle-berries), _Chamæmorus_ (_Rubus Chamæmorus_, Cloud-berry), and +_Chamærubus_ (_R. saxatilis_, Stone Bramble), all which vied with each +other in the profusion of their berries. But little Ling (_Erica_) was +to be seen. + +The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds, which had partly been burnt, +were covered with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_). + +Towards evening I arrived at Tornea. The weather was fine. + +Near Grotnäs, situated opposite to the church of Calix, is a ferry to +convey passengers to this church, adjoining to which the inhabitants of +Lulea and Tornea keep a fair. + +The river produces abundance of Flote-grass, which at this time bore its +spikes or heads of flowers. I had long been acquainted with the plant, +it being very abundant in this country as well as in Smoland, and had +wondered what species it could be; especially as I never heard of any +botanist who had met with the fructification. It is a _Sparganium_, +whose leaves are very long, reaching a fathom or two, according to the +depth of the water, and floating on its surface. They are convex at +their back, except in the lower part, which is flat on both sides. (This +plant named _Flotagræs_, or Flote-grass, in Linnæus's native country of +Smoland, is the _Sparganium_ _n._ 345* of _Fl. Lapp._, in the second +edition of which work I have called it _S. natans_, on his own authority +in the _Flora Suecica_ and _Species Plantarum_; but in _English Botany,_ +_v._ 4. 273, and _Fl. Brit._ 962, this error is corrected, so far at +least as concerns the original Lapland specimen, which is unquestionably +_S. simplex_, _Engl. Bot._ _v._ 11. _t._ 745, a species he did not, in +his works, distinguish from our common _S. ramosum_, _t._ 744. I am now +persuaded he confounded this _simplex_ with the _natans_ in his Lapland +tour, as well as in his herbarium, where the original specimens of the +two are pinned together.) + + +_August._ 2 + +They dry their corn upon drying sheds as is practised in Smoland. The +cross piece is turned towards the south, but the method here differs +from that of the Smolanders in one respect. The latter place one sheaf +on the top of another, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia lay the +sheaves cross-wise, in an alternate order, each thinking their own +method the best for procuring the most complete ventilation. In this +country fifteen sheaves are lodged under each shed, without supporters; +but in Smoland twelve only, ten of which are in the main pile and two at +the sides. The Smolanders therefore are able to reach high enough to +place their uppermost sheaves by hand, but the inhabitants of +Westbothnia find it necessary to be provided with what they term a +_Skyllkrok_, or Rick-hook, consisting of a round pole, with a +transverse projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-post in England, +as appears by the sketch in the manuscript,) by means of which each +sheaf is lifted up. + +On a heath very near the river Sangis I noticed some earth of a red +colour. The dry part of the forest which had been burnt down, produced +Reindeer-moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_) in such abundance, that the whole +face of the ground was covered with it. + +The evening was fine when I reached Zangis (or Sangis), where I took +leave of my native tongue. + + +_August 3._ + +At sun-rise the marshes were all white with hoar frost. In the preceding +night winter had paid his first visit, and slept in the lap of the +lovely Flora. I did not observe that she had suffered from her rude +visitor, except with regard to the _Dracontium_ (_Calla palustris_), the +leaves of which assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest in bloom at +this place, are _Erica_ (_vulgaris_), the Red-flowered Persicaria +(_Polygonum Persicaria_), and _Hieracium præmorsum_ (_Leontodon +autumnale_, _Sp. Pl._ 1123. _Hedypnois autumnalis_, _Fl. Brit._ 826. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 830.) + +On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-tongue behind me. At Saris I met +with native Finlanders only, whose language was unintelligible to me. + +Here grew the _Masarooth_ (_Selinum palustre_) with a proliferous umbel. + +The mouse-traps used here are made like those for catching squirrels; +which I have already described. + +Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tornea are three ferries to pass. In +my way I noticed a new species of _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), of a +small size, not leafy at the top, erect, not creeping like the _S. +minor_; (see _Fl. Lapp. n._ 2. _var._ [gamma].) It had the appearance of +_Potamogeton graminifolium_ (_gramineum_). (What particular state or +appearance of the _Callitriche_ this might be, does not appear, nor is +it mentioned in _Fl. Lapp._) + +I reached Tornea by three o'clock. + + + + +TORNEA. + + +_August 4._ + +A reindeer may be driven in a carriage twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, +or, at the utmost, fifteen; but the animal is generally killed +immediately afterwards with the Laplanders' spears, and eaten. + +The Laplanders are perhaps so called from the (Swedish) word _lappa_, to +sew or patch together, because their garments usually answer to that +description. + +The degree of cold is certainly greater on the alps than in less +elevated regions; for instance, it is colder in Jamtland than at Tornea, +though the former lies about one hundred miles further south. Thus it +appears that the cause of the severity of the cold does not depend so +much on the approach towards the pole, as on the elevation of the +ground, which ought to be carefully observed. Hence the plants of the +north of Lapland are such only as are capable of resisting the most +severe and long-continued cold, and hence snow lies on the alps of +Italy. + +Alpine plants are, for the most part, perennial, except the Little Blue +Centaury (_Gentiana nivalis_), and perhaps the Single-flowered _Lychnis_ +(_apetala_). I wish botanists would endeavour to discover and make known +any new kinds of pulse or grain, especially such as are of a hardy +constitution, and not likely to suffer from the severity of winter. Some +are perhaps to be found among the grasses. It is necessary to ascertain +what degree of northern latitude they would bear, and whether they are +capable of growing within the frigid zone. It is worthy of inquiry in +what respects the Alps, properly so called (of Switzerland,) agree with +ours of Lapland, as well as how far, and by what means, they are +susceptible of culture. The descriptions that have been given of them +may be consulted. The Greenland alps would also be worth examining, to +see how far these different countries agree in their native plants, in +varieties of situation, and in plenty of soil, compared with the +proportion of rocks or large stones. Do they all agree in the diminutive +stature of their plants? + +The tranquil existence of the Laplanders answers to Ovid's description +of the golden age, and to the pastoral state as depicted by Virgil. It +recalls the remembrance of the patriarchal life, and the poetical +descriptions of the Elysian fields. + +So many Finlanders crowded about me, that I scarcely knew what to do. +They were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to be nearly blind. Many of +them were perfectly deprived of sight, and ninety-nine out of a hundred +that were so had their eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe any +remedy for this evil, so long as its cause is every where so prevalent. +This consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had the management of +these Finlanders, I would tie them up to the wall and give them fifteen +pair of lashes apiece till they made chimneys to their huts, especially +as they have such plenty of fire-wood. This improvement in the comfort +of their dwellings might surely be accomplished by the authority of the +chief magistrate, for I have not been able to learn any sufficient +reason for their adherence to their old way of building. If people +thirty or forty years of age are thus afflicted, what must become of +them by the time they are seventy? + +The Finlander's scythe is represented in the annexed figure. + +[Illustration] + +The handle is rather above two feet in length, straight for about the +space of a foot from the part where the blade is bound on. Afterwards it +is slightly curved outwards, and then again, towards the apex, in some +degree inwards so as to make a straight line with the base. The top is +thicker than any other part. The blade of the scythe is, like that used +in our country, about a foot and a half long, and an inch and half +broad, very slightly curved. Its back is, like that of our scythes, +thickened on one side. The mower takes hold of the top with his left +hand, so that the back of the scythe is uppermost, but grasps with his +right the part where the above-described curvature ends, so as to be +able to give the edge a turn upwards. As he moves forward, he mows first +on the right, and then on the left, only turning his hands, and not +lifting the scythe, but merely presenting each side of its blade +alternately to the ground. + +On the south-west side of the town, across a small bay, lies a mineral +spring. The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is one of the best +mineral waters I have met with in the north; but it lies very low, +appearing to derive its origin from a stream that runs above, so that +its water comes out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and is covered +with scum. + + +_August 5._ + +Every body at Tornea was continually talking to me of a distemper to +which their horned cattle are subject, and which kills many of them in +the course of the winter, but especially in the spring, when they lose +from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost every year. On walking to +examine the meadow into which they are first turned out to grass, I +found it a bog or marsh, where the Water Hemlock, _Cicuta aquatica_, +(_C. virosa_, _Sp. Pl._ 366. _Fl. Lapp. n._ 103. _Engl. Bot. t._ 479.) +grew in abundance, and had evidently been cropped plentifully by the +animals in feeding. It seemed probable therefore that they eat it most +in the spring, when first turned into this pasture; whence it proves so +much more extensively fatal than in summer, when perhaps they only pick +up a plant here and there. It grows in all the moist meadows which are +mown for hay; consequently the cattle take it likewise in their winter +food, and therefore perish, more or less, during that time of the year. +We learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave it to various kinds of +animals, what violent symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing +appeared to me so interesting, during my visit to Tornea, as to examine +into the cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas be right, the whole +might be prevented by employing a woman for a month to eradicate all the +_Cicuta_; by which this town, small as it is, might save above two +hundred silver dollars. I was informed that the cattle dying from this +cause become so infectious, that they cannot be flayed without great +danger. The persons employed in that business have their hands greatly +swelled by touching the carcase, and several have lost their lives in +consequence. The plant in question, therefore, agrees in qualities with +the _[OE]nanthe_, as it does likewise in place of growth and outward +appearance, especially in the _pinnæ_ of its leaves.[9] + +The meadows hereabouts, among the thickets towards the shore of the bay, +afforded me the following plants. + +1. _Veronica_ (_maritima_), with an erect stem, branched in the upper +part, and bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves acute, cordate-oblong, +sharply serrated, the upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, or +four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla tubular, divided two +thirds of its length into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, +ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the lower three-cleft, the middle +segment narrowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two, very long, +awlshaped, situated at the separation of the two lips. Hence the flower +is of the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule heartshaped, narrow +at the upper edge. The flowers are numerous in each spike. + +2. Selleri, (_Apium graveolens_[10],) unless I am much mistaken. The +petals are white, spreading, and acute. The partial umbels are broad. +The general one has very rarely one or two (leaves of an involucrum?). + +3. _Galium parisiense_ (_uliginosum_), with a square, furrowed, +procumbent stem. The leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the +extremity, acute, armed with little prickles as well as the stem. The +flower is not tubular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter are white, as +is also the flower. Four leaves grow together in the lower part of the +stem, but in the upper part six. Under the little umbels of flowers are +either four or two. + +4. _Galium album_ (_boreale_). Stem square, erect, branched, especially +in the upper part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather broader towards +their base, three-nerved, slightly reflexed at the margin. There are two +leaves to each of the lesser umbels. Seeds two, roundish, joined into a +didymous shape, downy. Flower not tubular. + +5. _Cruciata_, if I am not mistaken. (_Galium palustre_, that is, +_Cruciata palustris alba_ of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, +bluntish, narrower towards their base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. +See what I gathered in the woody parts of Lulean Lapland. (This was the +same species, as appears by the _Fl. Lapp._) + +6. _Clymenum parisiense_ (_Lathyrus palustris_). Stem triangular, two of +its angles ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed border. There +are two little oblong pointed angular leaflets at the insertion of the +leaves, which latter are pinnated, ending in a tendril, and composed of +two or three pair of nearly lanceolate _pinnæ_. The flowers are +violet-coloured, three or four on each common stalk. + +7. _Angelica tenuifolia_ (_sylvestris_), which I would define _A. +umbellulis globosis_. The general umbel, though often naked, is commonly +furnished with one, two, or as far as five, very slender leaves; each +partial one has often as many as eight. It is curious that when the +plant blooms vigorously, none of the stalks of the umbel can be seen, +but the flowers form a complete ball, like the Double Guelder-rose +(_Sambucus Opulus_, _flore pleno_,) or the Globe Thistle (_Echinops +Sphærocephalus_). The petals are lanceolate and spreading. Stem +striated, or slightly furrowed. + +8. _Cicuta aquatica_ of Wepfer (_C. virosa_ above mentioned). I am +disposed to refer this plant to _[OE]nanthe_, on account of its external +aspect, which is wonderfully like the last-mentioned genus. I must +examine whether their flowers agree. The footstalks are hollow, +inflated, and erect. _Pinnæ_ three, rarely four, pair, of a narrow +lanceolate shape. Those on the stem have from three to seven serratures +each, but the radical ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes the +lowermost serrature, at the lower edge, grows out into a sort of +spurious _pinnula_. The top of the stem bears from one to three umbels; +the general umbel being naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary +leaflet[11]. The partial ones have seven short, narrow, acute leaflets. +The tips of the petals are inflexed. + +9. (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_. Its capsules are rose-coloured, +its flowers yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, and obtuse. The +capsules are about equal to the interstices of the spike, which all +together is about four inches long. + + +_August 6._ + +The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore a day of recreation for both +mind and body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a memorial of King +Charles the XIth's own observation of the sun on the 14th of June, 1694. +The sun was visible on that night till very near twelve, when a small +cloud hid it from the sight. It was however above the horizon[12]. In +winter the sun does not rise above the horizon, but at the solstice it +becomes visible. Could it be seen from the pole? + +The young women in Finland have much more swelling bosoms than those of +Lapland; the latter accord best with the description of the poet, + + "_Quales cruda viro puella servat._" + (_Mart._ lib. 8. ep. 63.) + + +_August 7._ + +The town of Tornea stands on a small island, inhabited close to the +shore on the south-west side. I call it an island, because it is bounded +on the north by a swamp; on the south-east by the great river of Tornea; +on the west and south-west by an arm of the sea, like a large river in +appearance, but so shallow that no vessel can approach within a mile of +the town on that side. This arm of the sea was formerly the _king's +road_, (a channel obliged to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry in +summer time, on the north side, towards the swamp. + +I ascended the steeple from whence his majesty king Charles the Eleventh +saw the sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694. + + +_August 8._ + +Nothing worth notice occurred. + + +_August 9._ + +Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi, where is a large salmon fishery, +for which this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for its meadows, and +Storlionis for its cornfields, but the last yield the greatest profit. + + +_August 10._ + +I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman in Kimi till the 11th. +This day I gathered a sort of Pink, _Caryophyllus_, with reflexed petals +of a purplish colour, divided into many segments almost to their base. +The claws, not contracted at the summit, bear on the upper side, at the +bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This was the beautiful and +fragrant _Dianthus superbus._) Also a _Salix_ with appendages at the +base of its leaves. (What species this was, does not appear.) At the +shore of the great river grew _Alsine repens_, _foliis gramineis_, +(_Stellaria uliginosa_, _Fl. Brit._ 476. _Engl. Bot. t._ 1074.) + +Lying-in women at this place are accustomed to drink brandy seasoned +with pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicating quality, by way of +a narcotic, and partly to bring on the labour pains. The clergyman's +wife told me an infallible method, as she said, to prevent the pains +which often follow childbirth. When the woman's first child is born, and +the umbilical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood is given her to +swallow. This is to be practised at every succeeding labour, and I was +assured that each would be rendered more easy, without any after pains. + +In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, it is customary to have the +dairy superintended by a superior female servant, called the _fäbodar_, +who receives for each cow one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides +a pound of _mesosmör_. (See _v._ 1. 197.) + +To obtain a greater quantity of butter, the milk is set by, either in a +cellar or in a double-walled house, to be kept as cold as possible, for +at least two days, or so long as that it will not stick to the finger. +The milk will not turn sour, but will become very thin and blue, while +the cream collects on the top, of considerable thickness and in great +perfection. The cream being taken off, and put into the churn, often +proves so rich, that after it has been churned but a short time, if the +churn be laid on one side nothing will run out. It is no small labour to +churn such cream. + +Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being warmed before it is +coagulated. If the milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do for this +purpose. Such thin milk as this is not very fit for eating, but the whey +which separates from it in the making of cheese, is by some people made +into _syra_. (See _v._ 1. 243. _n._ 11.) This is done merely by putting +it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, when, if set by for a considerable +time, it will become extremely tough. Most usually however it is boiled, +and then kept for two or three days, when, some new milk being added, it +is boiled up again to the consistence of flummery, and then set by in +some kind of vessel. If it remains for a long while without being +touched, it grows hard, and becomes _mesosmör_. (_v._ 1. 243. _n._ 12.) +The blue milk above mentioned may be boiled like fresh milk, and does +not readily turn sour. + +_Gos-mjölk_, or rather _Gäs-mjölk_, (from the Swedish verb _gäsa_, to +work or ferment,) is made as follows. The butter-milk is set by in a tub +till it begins to ferment, when about a third or fourth part of the +quantity of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed to work once +more. A serum by this time is formed at the bottom, which is drawn off +by means of a cock or tap, in the bottom of the tub, and used +immediately for food. A similar portion of fresh milk is then put to the +remainder, when more whey is, in due time, deposited. This practice is +repeated from time to time for the space of a fortnight, at the end of +which the milk in the tub becomes of a thick consistence, and is +excellent eating. + +_Servet-mjölk_ (Napkin Milk) is made by taking a quantity of sour milk +just beginning to ferment, when bubbles, like hydatids as it were, are +formed between the cream and the milk. This is cut across in various +directions, and the thicker substance taken off and hung up in a napkin, +that the liquid part may drain away. What remains in the napkin acquires +a firm consistence, and is eaten along with fresh sweet cream. + + + + +EAST BOTHLAND. + + +_August 11._ + +I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is +Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian. + +Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._ +1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or +middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small. + +A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards +the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears. + +In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the +_Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), +the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_. +(This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_, +formerly called _Coccognidium_.) + +I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was +almost out of flower. + +The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of +which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral +ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the +anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch +long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three +principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three +valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere +longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb +has the aspect of _Veratrum_. + + +_August 12._ + +The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with +Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_). +The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a +remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the +_Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_ +(Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Chamæmorus_, are here in +abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself +every where in the highway. + +The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally +against upright posts. + +The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of +the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an +oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a +flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not +partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see +_vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this +opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the +smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is +rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke +can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be +frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me +altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a +moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind +and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the +midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their +opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the +door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep +themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only +shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as +owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within +was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other +persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to +me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug. +On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was +actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were +accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours. + +I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast +them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their +fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the +truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the +winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome. + +I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings +have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season, +however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the +above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden +vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made, +stands a table. + +As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the +heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them +for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but +double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such +as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the +dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at +the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their +provisions, distil brandy, &c. + +The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses +in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on +longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve +outwards towards the top. + +This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so +that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper +part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made +bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for +this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time +quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The +sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed +ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf +being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards +carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance +of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones. + +The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in +Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or +depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon +the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned +horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door. + +By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches +high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale +above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499. +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.) + +[Illustration] + +The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the +Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from +the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c, +is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is +flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost +projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage +of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture. +The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions +of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b +to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches +in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of +c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute +angle with the handle. + +The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve +joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See +the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159) + +In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for +boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to +heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which +is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste +to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are +smoke-dried. + +During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable +cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find +themselves sufficiently warm. + +The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi. + +[Illustration] + + a, the base, is three palms long and one broad. + + b, b, handles, each a palm in length. + + c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure. + + e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke. + The distance betwixt e and e is three feet. + + f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage. + + g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two + palms and a half broad. + + h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base + one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet. + + i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the + base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is + introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points + together rather than to separate them. + +It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned +downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is +laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done +alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well +as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep +trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to +m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share +from going too far downward. + +No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over +with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where +rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described. + +It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six +plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons +are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or +ordinary). + +In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_) +_Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a +solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the +Linnæan herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.) + +My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East +Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a +horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or +would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I +arrived, and turned my steps backward. + +The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the +Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their +dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, +their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt +into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon +their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high +collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their +coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife, +though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied +round the knees. + +At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it +was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which +formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in +articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different +appearance from the Lapland females. + +East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. +The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that +they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the +boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water +to pour over the reindeer moss. + +The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season +of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground. + +The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, had already sprung up, and +made the fields quite green. + +I returned back to Tornea in the evening. + + +_August 13._ + +This being a fast day, I heard a sermon in the Finnish tongue, preached +at the church of Tornea. A lawful wife was churched, after her lying-in; +which ceremony was performed in the choir, near the elevated part. The +women in general had either naturally white hair, or hair that had once +been brown, now turned grey. Very few had it red. They wear their hair +rather straight. + +The physiognomy of both men and women is phlegmatic and stupid; the body +clumsy, the complexion bad, and the features destitute of all delicacy +of form or expression. + +The boundary between West Bothnia and East Bothnia is not formed by the +river of Kimi, but by another smaller stream, not far distant, on the +left. + +They catch _Sijk_ (_Salmo Lavaretus_) in a curious manner at this place. +These fish, like the common salmon, swim against the stream, and for +that reason are to be caught only near large falls of the river, which +they are unable to ascend. The fisherman, being furnished with a net +fixed at the end of a long pole, strips himself naked up to the waist, +and walks into the middle of the strongest cascade. To prevent accidents +from the force of the water, a rope is often tied round his waist, the +other end of which is held fast by a friend on shore. Thus they catch +the fish below the fall. + +Seals are taken by various means, being either shot with fire-arms, or +caught in a net. The latter, three or four fathoms high, is made of +hempen cord, as thick as a goose-quill, each mesh being two spans wide. +This net is kept upright in the water by means of oblong floats of wood, +and has no stones at the bottom. Four or five such nets are frequently +tied to the ends of each other, and a large stone is attached to the +last, bound about with willow or osier, which serves to keep the nets +steady. These are set in places where the seals are known to hide +themselves, for those animals do the fishermen great damage, not only by +devouring fish, but by tearing the fishing nets, from the destruction of +which the haunts of the seals are discovered. When a seal comes in the +way of the above-described nets, he either thrusts his head between the +meshes, getting more and more entangled the more he pushes forward, or, +as often happens, he is caught by the foot. + +On a sand-hill near the church at Tornea, grew, in great abundance, +_Gramen spicâ triticeâ maritimum_, (_Triticum radice repente_, _foliis +rigidis_; _Fl. Lapp. n._ 34, which, in the second edition of that work, +p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my intelligent friend Dr. Afzelius, +referred to _Elymus arenarius_, and what Linnæus here says, confirms +this determination.) Its blue leaves looked quite different from all +others, and very handsome. I picked some seeds from the spikes, which +were as large as grains of rye. Hence I was induced to consider whether +this plant might not serve as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such +dry and blowing sands, provided the proper method of managing it could +be discovered, which surely would not be a very difficult task. The +advantage of this would be that, by such means, many sandy tracts, where +nothing else will grow, might be turned to advantage; and the perennial +roots, which no other corn has, would of course save the trouble of +sowing it annually. Perhaps even these roots themselves might, in hard +times, serve for food. + +The tall Finlander Daniel Cajanus, at Stockholm, born in this part of +East Bothland, was the son of a clergyman. At his birth he was no bigger +than the generality of children, and his health was very indifferent, +particularly with regard to his chest, till the age of twelve or fifteen +years. + +I was informed that the inhabitants of this neighbourhood often hear +thunder in the alps during winter. + +In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by a south wind, and mild weather +comes from the north, because of the sea. + +The Laplanders consult several natural objects by way of compass as they +travel. + +1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more copious branches on their southern +side than towards the north. + +2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which bear grass, the northern +whortle-berries. + +3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on the north side, smooth on the +opposite part. + +4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on the north side, with the black +_Usnea_, or filamentous _Lichen_ (_L. jubatus_). + +By such marks as these they are able to find their way through pathless +forests. Have we any guides so certain? + +When these people kill any wild reindeer with fire-arms in summer, they +lodge the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up as they want it for +provision. + +I observed a curious kind of lime-stone burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other +places round the neighbouring sea-coast. + + +_August 14._ + +A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjortot has been assayed by the +Mineral Board, and found to contain forty _per cent._ lead, but only +three or four of silver. + + +_August 15._ + +Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up the Fresh-water Sponge, _Spongia +lacustris_ of Newton, (_S. lacustris_; _Syst. Nat. v._ 1. 1299. Linnæus +here refers to Mr. Newton, the friend of Ray, who found the Sponge in +question in the Norwich river, where it still exists. It is however +denominated in Ray's _Synopsis_, _S. ramosa fluviatilis_, not +_lacustris_. Linnæus quoted from memory.) + + +_August 16._ + +In dissecting the flower of _Artemisia_ (_vulgaris_), I was struck with +its very curious conformation. (This alludes to the want of a limb to +the corolla of the female or marginal florets. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. +244.) + + +_August 17._ + +I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The wind proved contrary. The +islands abounded with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of _Rubus +saxatilis_. On one called Korsholm I met with a sort of _Behen_. Can it +be the same with that which grows in cornfields? Their different parts +are tolerably alike. This grew among the pebbles of the beach. Its calyx +is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem erect. Fruit of one cell. In other +respects it resembles _Behen_. (This was _Cucubalus_ (_Behen_) variety +the third, or [gamma], _Fl. Lapp. n._ 180. _ed._ 2. 149. _Silene +maritima_, _Fl. Brit._ 468. _Engl. Bot. t._ 957. We have found it remain +for many years unchanged in a garden, propagating itself by seed, though +Linnæus reports that the third year he could not distinguish his from +our common _Silene inflata_, his _Cucubalus Behen_.) + + +[OE]CONOMICAL REMARKS CONCERNING THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA. + +The soil is various, sometimes clay, sometimes sand. The corn-fields are +sown every other year, and lie fallow the intermediate seasons, half of +each field lying fallow, while the other half is cultivated. The former +is ploughed during the whole summer, to prevent the growth of grass or +weeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is sown in these open fields only. +Rye is cultivated on land that has recently been cleared of its wood by +burning, but not in any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are sown +together in one crop, and not, as usual in other places, Turnips one +year and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved to treat visitors. Barley +bread is of three different qualities; 1. made of the unmixed barley; 2. +of a mixture of barley and chaff; 3. of chaff without any addition, +except now and then a handfull or two of barley. This last is their +_Spis-bröd_, or household-bread. + +The plough is of the same construction as that used in Westbothland. + +Almost every person, except such as are very poor, catches as many of +the small kind of Herrings, called _Str[oe]mming_ (_Clupea Harengus_ +[beta], _Membras_ of old authors,) as are necessary for the support of +his family. Those who are not otherwise employed in spring and autumn, +catch them for sale afterwards to such as have not time to take any for +themselves. These fish begin to spawn about the 18th of May, and +continue till about the 16th of June. After the latter period they go +into the small inlets among the rocks, and are taken by means of large +nets till St. Peter's day, June 29th. This is called the large +Str[oe]mming fishery. From St. Peter's day till St. Bartholomew's (Aug. +24th), or even later, they are taken likewise with nets in their usual +haunts. These fish are found with milt as well as roe throughout the +summer. + +One barrel of sour Str[oe]mming is as valuable as two of the salted +sort, the former being greatly preferred. A peasant whose family +consists of a dozen people, takes half a barrel of salt Str[oe]mming for +his whole supply, and this is used to make a kind of soup when boiled +with turnips; but he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour +Str[oe]mming, which is eaten without any preparation, like smoked and +salted meat. If the director of the family is a good [oe]conomist, he +will never allow it to be boiled or roasted. They let the fish which is +to make sour Str[oe]mming lie for three or four hours only before they +take out the entrails, after which it is washed in a small coarse sieve, +till most of the blood is removed. It is then salted, in the proportion +of thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each barrel of fish. The fish +destined to make salt Str[oe]mming must be much more carefully washed, +for if the least drop of blood remains it will turn sour. Every barrel +of this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt which is disposed in +layers, alternately with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and salt are +rubbed together with the hands, till a sort of scum rises on the top. + +Another way of preparing salt Str[oe]mming is to make so strong a brine +that the entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not sink. They put in +only so many of the fish as can readily be stirred about in the brine. +If the tub be so full that the brine does not entirely cover the +Str[oe]mming, more is added, and the whole is suffered to remain for +some days. The fish is afterwards gutted in the following manner. A +person puts ten or twelve of them on the thumb of his left hand, in such +a manner that the back of each fish is turned towards the palm. He then +very dexterously loosens the gills with his right hand, pinching out the +gills and intestines at once; which is performed with great quickness. +The fish are then put into a rope basket, and salted as before. When +they have remained thus for a couple of days, they are put into other +baskets, in order that the brine may drain away, and finally are packed +up in new kegs for keeping, without any further salting. A hole is bored +in each tub, just above the lowermost hoop, to draw off the brine, which +is always collecting from the fish, and if permitted to remain, will +cause the whole to turn sour; but the same method is not practised for +the sour Str[oe]mming. This last is in its greatest perfection about St. +James's day (July 25th). + +These people have three meals a day in summer, besides breakfast, and +the sour Str[oe]mming always makes a part of their dinner, as well as of +the preceding refreshment. The fish, after being repeatedly squeezed, is +laid between two slices of bread, and so eaten. After it they take some +sour preparation of milk, without cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit +of cheese, or bread and butter; but they never eat meat after the sour +Str[oe]mming. Their vegetable food consists of cabbage, pease, or +turnips, the first being generally eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten +once a week, except when the cabbage is deficient, and then they supply +its place. Turnips and salt Str[oe]mming are generally eaten in a +morning, in the following manner. When the turnips are boiled nearly +enough, the fish is put to them, but not before, lest it should be +broken to pieces. To this some flour is added; and they drink sour milk +after it. Their supper always consists of flummery, made of barley-meal. +Before they first go out in a morning they eat either bread and butter, +or bread and cheese, but they prefer the former. The mixed bread (made +of corn and chaff) is their ordinary portion; good bread, made entirely +of corn, they seldom or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or for +very extraordinary occasions. Their mixed or household bread, being +baked in cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying four or five such +cakes together upon each other. They are never unprovided with ale in +their cellars, to treat visitors, though their ordinary drink is table +beer. In summer time they always drink _Syra_, (see vol. i. p. 243.) + +The peasants themselves eat but very little of their own mutton, and +chiefly the shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell; scarcely any is +kept in the house but the above parts, with the marrow-bones, which +they break to get at the marrow. The heads and feet of sheep, goats, and +hogs, are salted and dried, being, when wanted, boiled with pease, and +not ill-tasted. The legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often boiled +fresh; the fat which floats on the top being collected and preserved in +a horn or pot, as very useful to grease small ropes, and wheels. The +legs and feet thus boiled are afterwards thrown away, not eaten. The +head and feet of a calf are usually pickled. + +For fire-wood these people use birch-wood. They burn no candles in their +houses. They go to smoke themselves with the Finlanders in their huts. + +The hay is mown here in the same manner as in Upland, and the corn is +managed in the same way as in Smoland. When the season is dry, they +prefer drying the corn in heaps in the open air, as before described; +but in wet weather they have recourse to sheds. The hay is spread out +till dry, and afterwards carried, without being made into cocks. + +They raise as many hops as are wanted for each family, and have perhaps +a few pounds over, for sale. + +Their pales are high, made of pine-wood, and placed sloping. + +The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs made of alder wood, by which +they obtain a great proportion of cream, even two fingers' thick. This +cream is stirred up with the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for +making cheese. Another mode is with butter-milk, to which they add a +sixth part of fresh milk, that has stood one day and been skimmed. This +mixture, being first warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese thus made is +preferred to the former, and often eaten in preference to butter. + +Between Midsummer and St. James's day (July 25th), the whey is +collected, after the cheese is made; which, after boiling for some +hours, is set by to cool. When cold, it is barrelled up for winter use. +Poor people and old women beg or buy it, a small bottle-full at a time. +To one pot of sour milk they add a fourth part of _Syra_; and these +together have the taste of what they term _Filbunke_, which is sour milk +with the cream on, just beginning to ferment, and of which they make +_Servet-mjölk_; (see p. 150.) + +Thick milk (perhaps _Mesosmör_, see vol. i. p. 243,) is often kept in +barrels till winter, as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both serve +for winter provision. + +_Syra_ is so very sour as not to be eatable by itself. When they have no +milk to dilute it with, they add an equal quantity of water to the +_Syra_, and mix the whole with flummery, which mixture they prefer to +small beer. + +Butter is now and then made of goat's milk; but it is very strong, and +quite as white as that made of the milk of the rein-deer. + + +_August 18._ + +On islands near the shore I saw a _Salix_ with leaves like the +cultivated olive. It is a shrub three feet high, but growing in a +spreading manner. Stem grey, with roundish dusky solitary buds, of a +very large size, in proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually larger +(upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, bluntish, on scarcely perceptible +footstalks, furnished with an obtuse longitudinal rib beneath, but no +veins. Their upper surface is green, sprinkled all over with minute +white dots; very slightly channelled, and paler, along the nerve. (This +appears to have been _S. rosmarinifolia_.) + + +_August 19._ + +At the fair of Calix I obtained some information concerning the commerce +of this country, which is very different from that of almost every place +in the world besides, insomuch that I am unable to determine which party +makes his market of the other. The townsman thinks it is himself who +cheats the peasant, but I verily believe he is the party who is cheated. + +1. The general plan of traffic here is bartering one article for +another. + +2. The merchant generally carries his goods home to the peasant's +residence in the country, at whatever distance it may be, or else +conveys them to the fair, from whence the purchaser is to fetch them. + +3. When a townsman sets up trade as a merchant, his principal aim is to +get as many country-people to connect themselves with him as possible, +who are to supply him with their produce. These are termed +_Gield-bonder_, or creditors. + +4. The advantage the peasants have in thus confiding to the merchant the +whole of their goods, is, that the latter pays their taxes for them to +the collector, which must be done either in ready money, or bills of +exchange. + +5. When the merchant receives the goods from the countryman, no price is +fixed upon them between the parties; but when the former returns from +Stockholm, he sets down in his accompt-book nearly the sum for which he +has disposed of the articles there. In this the peasant trusts to the +honour of the merchant, and is paid accordingly. + +6. These prices are not communicated to the countryman immediately, nor +does he know the price of the salt, tobacco, corn, and other articles, +with which the merchant supplies him in return, till they settle +accompts; which does not take place till the end of every year, or +perhaps not so frequently. + +7. As long as a peasant keeps to one merchant, he is allowed credit, and +obtains advances of any money for which he may have occasion, even +although the goods delivered do not amount to the interest of the sum +lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000 dollars. But if he carries any of +his goods to another merchant, he must immediately pay what he owes to +his original correspondent, or suffer a sequestration of his property. + +8. The countryman never brings his own goods to market, unless he +happens to be going that way, in which case he usually takes them with +him, but otherwise it is expected the merchant should fetch them. + +9. When the towns of this part of the country were first built, each had +certain parishes appropriated to it, and these were called the trading +district of each town, in which no person who did not belong to the town +had a right to trade. These exclusive privileges were subsequently +annulled by royal authority, and free markets were established, where +strangers as well as the neighbouring inhabitants were equally permitted +to trade. This open trade has not however taken place at Calix, partly +because the peasants are situated at so great a distance from one +another, and partly because the merchants in the town conceive that such +a plan would ruin them, they being in that case obliged to buy and sell +for ready money. + +10. Here are no free markets, properly speaking, but only _Upbördsmoten_ +(periodical meetings of the collectors of the revenues with the +peasants). At these times the townsmen and the peasants meet together at +the place of rendezvous, as at Calix every year on the 19th of August, +and at Tornea in the depth of winter. + +The inconveniences of the above plan of trade are, + +1. The merchant lays considerable sums fast, with which he might +otherwise extend his commerce. + +2. He has the trouble of carrying his goods to the house of the peasant, +where-ever it may be, up the country, and of bringing what he takes in +exchange from the place of rendezvous to his own house in town. + +3. The consequence of such a plan is, that many a merchant has +outstanding debts to the amount of 100,000 dollars, the greater part of +which he may never get paid. + +The inconveniences to the countryman are, + +1. He runs in debt more than he can ever pay. + +2. The merchant has the advantage of fixing what price he chooses on his +goods. + +3. He is not allowed to take any measures for his own profit. + + * * * * * + +The collar of the shirts, worn by the inhabitants of Finland and East +Bothland in this neighbourhood, resembles ours, their sleeves being more +like those of a woman's shift. + +Young women here commonly wear the bosom open, and have nothing over +their shift, which is gathered round the waist like a petticoat. + +The country of East Bothland is chiefly inhabited about the sea-coast, +and on the banks of rivers. + +An Aurora borealis was seen in the night of the 18th of August, and had +been visible for a week past, so early does it begin here. + +The rowers of the boat in which I pursued my progress had blisters on +their hands caused by pulling at the oars. Their specific was the ladle +with which they had just been stirring the pot where fish was boiling. +This they applied, hot as it was, to the part affected, and the blisters +disappeared. + +What is here called _Taim_ is a sort of salmon, two spans in length at +most, the tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked, but otherwise like +the common kind. (This is probably the _Salmo salar_ in a young state; +and may perhaps be the _Laxunge_, or _Salmo minor_, _vulgari similis_, +Artedi Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica_, ed. 2. 122, +though Linnæus has no allusion there to the _Taim_.) + +As soon as the corn is carried from the field, it is usual to thrash it +slightly, that whatever is loose may come away, and not be lost in the +barn, as also that the coarser part may be separated from the finer. + +The flail is about a yard long, and rather thick. + +The roofs in this part of the country are made of the bark of +birch-trees, not covered over with any turf, but held fast by round +poles, as thick as one's arm, whose upper extremities, alternately +longer and shorter, reach to the ridge, and being bored through, are +fastened to it, in such a manner that their ends project about a span +each way beyond the ridge, crossing each other. Being thicker at their +lower ends, they lie almost close together. Within this there is often a +false roof, like a cieling, covered over with birch-bark and earth; but +this is only when the house is wished to be very warm. + +At the residence of the Governor of the Province at Calix, I saw three +swans, which, having been taken when young, were as tame as domestic +geese, to which these birds are so much alike in every respect, that I +can have no doubt of their belonging to one genus. Their bill is flat, +and black at the extremity, as well as the margins, convex and somewhat +angular in the middle, so far at least that the swelling part terminates +in an angle. The middle is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are +situated; the base flat or quadrangular, with two sinuses pointing +upwards, and pale-coloured. The margin is toothed just like the _Concha +Veneris_ (_Cypræa_). + +A carriage called _Stotting_ is used here, for bringing home wood for +fuel in winter, over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-wood, and +resembles a sledge. + +The length of this machine from a to b is three feet and a half, the +breadth of each beam four inches and a half; their thickness two inches, +except in the middle, at d, where it is three inches and a half, though +in all the other parts of equal dimensions. The transverse bar, c, is +one foot and a half long, three inches and a half broad, and is elevated +four inches above the longitudinal pieces. e, e, are two slender +triangular pieces, two feet in length, and two inches in thickness. f, +f, are about one palm and a half each in length and breadth. h is curved +upwards about two palms and a half out of the straight line. g is two +feet long between the main beams, three inches and a half broad, but +scarcely one in thickness. + +[Illustration] + +The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from the common ones in being +broader, and in the elevation or thickness of each at d. The transverse +beam c, on which the load is laid, is bored through at each end, to +receive the supporting pieces. The slender bars e, e, which may be +termed clavicles, are broadest in the fore part, where they also are +bored through, and fastened with pegs, serving to give stability to the +cross beam c. Two of these carriages are tied together, one behind the +other, through the hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i, is made of +birchen twigs. + +At Calix I found the _Hippuris_ (_vulgaris_) with forked branches; +_Pentaphylloides facie fragariæ_, (_Potentilla rupestris_?); and _Eruca +foliis sinapeos_. (What this was does not appear.) + +I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Calix and Tornea. + +[Illustration] + +The scythe which serves at Cronby in East Bothland, for mowing barley, +is made exactly like the common one of the Finlanders, with the foremost +handle underneath, but, that nothing may be wasted or lost, the machine +b c is fixed to the scythe, b being stuck into the hole at a, and +fastened with a pin through it at the other side. A cord is tied from +the other end c to the handle d, before the scythe is used. The lower, +or shortest, bar of this appendage scarcely extends beyond the extremity +of the scythe at f. Its position is regulated by a cord, according to +the inclination of the blade f g. + +The length of the main handle of the scythe, e f, is two ells. + + +_August 31._ + +I collected and described various species of _Fungi_. + +(Here follow descriptions or characters of several species of +_Agaricus_, _Boletus_ and _Hydnum_, given more correctly in the _Flora +Lapponica_.) + + +_September 3._ + +I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgomaster Geyer Svanberg, who was +born the preceding night, or rather between one and two in the morning. +He was named Geyer. + +Mr. Svanberg told me the (_Cotyledon_) _Umbilicus Veneris_ grew on a hill +called _Karvick_, near Wallivari to the north. (This probably was not +confirmed, as the plant does not occur in _Flo. Suecica_.) + + +_September 4._ + +I went to Biorknas, in order to be instructed in the art of assaying. + + +_September 9._ + +I examined the fish called in West Bothland _Natting_, (_Petromyzon +fluviatilis._) Its upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling two teeth. +The lower has seven small teeth, of which the two outermost are +largest. Mouth in the under side of the head, gaping, oval, rather +compressed. There are seven openings in a row behind the eyes, gradually +larger as they recede from thence. The fins have no visible rays, but +merely streaks, yet they are not adipose, or fat, fins. There is a +prominent orifice on the top of the head. The _pericardium_ is +cartilaginous. The fish is a span long. Its hind fin triangular. + +These (lampreys) are caught at this time of the year, when the nights +grow dark, in hollow timbers of a conical shape, resembling the wicker +baskets used for catching eels. The entrance is made smooth and even. +These timbers are laid, at the depth of two ells, in the river, and kept +down with stones, the opening being turned to meet the current. + +Some such traps are made of willow-twigs not bigger than goose-quills, +platted close together into the same shape, and are two ells in length. + +I was told that the Laplanders are accustomed to preserve blood of the +reindeer in rennet-bags through the winter till spring, when they boil +it with water, and drink it. + +Tar is obtained in the following manner. A cavity, of an inversely +conical shape, is dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn timbers, nine +ells in length each, so as to form a sort of funnel. This again is lined +with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the tar draining away into the +ground between the timbers. At the bottom is another funnel or vessel of +wood to receive the tar, which runs from thence into a trough, closed on +all sides, except a hole where the point of the said funnel is inserted, +and another at the extremity, closed with a moveable plug, from which +the tar is received into vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut to +pieces, are placed upright in the large funnel above, so as to leave a +convexity over the bottom, and the whole being covered with turf is set +on fire, against the wind. Care is taken, by varying the admission of +air, to prevent its burning too fast, or unequally; and by this means +they procure both tar and charcoal. + + +_September 14._ + +I took my leave of Biorknas. The weather was cold and rainy. Such of the +forest trees as are of a deciduous nature had now assumed a pallid hue, +in consequence of the cold nights; but the evergreens, with their +needle-shaped leaves, standing among them, seemed to defy the cold, and +were rendered conspicuous by their dark-green colour. The high wind +scattered the withered leaves over my path. How useful are the usual +storms of autumn to disperse ripe seeds, and plant colonies far from the +parent trees! The hills appeared sandy; and such places as had been +burnt were now perfectly white with Reindeer Moss, (_Lichen +rangiferinus_,) which grew so close together, as hardly to leave any +room for the Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads like the +Iceland Moss, (_Lichen islandicus._) + +Some part of the road consisted of a reddish-brown earth, such as I had +observed in the early part of my journey near Um[oe]a. I was told that +it was excellent for red paint. At length I reached Zingis, and in the +evening arrived at Tornea, entirely wet through. + + +_September 15._ + +I observed how they manage their corn at this season. They have no barns +to lay it into, but it is placed between poles, all the ears directed to +one side, in stacks two or three ells long, and very high. If the corn +be not quite dry, it is first spread abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a +kiln, and thrashed on a floor. How liable must it be to take fire, and +how much must unavoidably be spilt in consequence of such management! + +I received 100 dollars, of copper-money, from the chief clergyman. + +I learned here that Tansy (_Tanacetum vulgare_) and Mugwort (_Artemisia +vulgaris_) are used to make a fomentation or bath, wonderfully useful +for women in labour, who are accustomed to sit over the steam of these +herbs. I had observed the people at every house drying Tansy, but could +meet with nobody who would inform me to what use it was destined. + + +_September 16._ + +This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. There are six ferries between +these two places, over the river Kokama, which passes near Kimi. Two +miles from hence are the boundaries of East and West Bothnia. Lime-stone +attracted my notice all the way along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow +on the outside, whitish within. + + +_September 17._ + +I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. The weather was unfavourable, for +it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the evening at the +posthouse of Jö. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with +marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of +grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch, +intermixed with the _acifoliæ_ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these +last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as +to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become +pale, but the _Sorbus_ (Mountain ash, _Pyrus aucuparia_, _Fl. Brit._) +had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (_Pedicularis_) +_Sceptrum Carolinum_ appeared every where by the roadside. _Thalictrum_ +(_flavum_) and _Scutellaria_ (_galericulata_) were less frequent, but +Golden-rod (_Solidago Virga aurea_), _Trollius_ (_europæus_), (_Spiræa_) +_Ulmaria_, and _Epilobium_ (_palustre_?) were plentiful, as was the +sweet _Milium_ (_effusum_), with the _Gramen ramosum_ (probably _Aira +cæspitosa_.) + +The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke, +and the tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious +of warmth than careful of their eyesight. + +The same sort of plough is used here as at Kimi. + +I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand. +Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular +stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately +pinnate, (_Pisum maritimum_). + +Near Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a +hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven +pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood +a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of +the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so +as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught, +should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any +further. + +The peasants of this upper part of East Bothnia, children of darkness in +their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing +to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are +white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in +front.--Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected +with a smell of sour fish, like sour Str[oe]mming, for they are kept +very dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish. + +Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea +Wheat-grass, (_Elymus arenarius._ See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. _n._ 34.) + + +_September 18._ + +I travelled from Jö to Ulaborg. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of +which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each +being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an +inverted position, upon them, the whole was sheltered from wet. The +barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that +the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round. +On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put, +as a kind of covering. + +[Illustration] + +The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already +described. + +(The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings, +at which Linnæus was so indignant.) + +[Illustration] + +Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from the shore, +which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so +firm as to serve for the construction of ovens. At one spot, where the +river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement, +which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of +iron. The stones in general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break +easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron. +Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest. + +A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the +rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five +fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or +six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of +the boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel being raised up, or +hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the +importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this +the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places. +Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished +with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the +highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against +stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may +go in safety. + +One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, (_Salmo Lavaretus_, or +Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a considerable +length, the meshes very small. There are loop-holes at the top, large +enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are +sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at +the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near +the sandy shore. + +[Illustration] + +Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the +strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net, +except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and +depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle +of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so +that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on +each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the +force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never +escape, but is taken out at leisure. + +[Illustration] + +Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of +the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a +small island, where there is a sawing-mill. + +In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made +to the life. He is actually buried here[14]. This church is one of the +longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. +The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as +large as Lund. + + +_September 19._ + +After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here +are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems +to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly +jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head +against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters +of the sketch.) + +[Illustration] + +I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Limingo, more spacious +than all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rödbeck together. (Tuneld says +in his Geography, that the meadows of Limingo, and cornfields of the +neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their +great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with +Horsetail (_Equisetum fluviatile_), and especially with Reed, _Arundo_ +(_Phragmites_), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a +forest. The Water Hemlock, _Cicutaria aquatica_, _Cicuta virosa_; (see +p. 136), was very plentiful by the road-side. This led me to inquire +whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the +affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any +advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar +particulars to what I had heard at Tornea. + +Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_) grew all the way by the road, as well as +_Lenticula_ (_Lemna_ or Duck-weed), and the _Lichenoides_ of which +powder is made was observable on the trees. (_Lichen prunastri_, said to +have been used for hair-powder.) + +The meadow of Limingo is two miles in length. The best part of the +land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned +cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat +impaired by tumps (of _Carex cæspitosa_). If but a third part of it were +cultivated, according to the Scanian mode of husbandry, it would be of +more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh +might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was +feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss +(_Sphagnum palustre_), which would render it altogether unprofitable. + +About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of +them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use +more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these +cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by +several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (_Iris Pseud'acorus_) was +mixed with the hay. + +The milk-strainers are made of straw, and not very clean. + + +_September 20._ + +Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of +Tornea, standing on a peninsula by the sea. + +In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to +have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them, +whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to +intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or +perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the +derangement. + +About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in +labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called _Hittatran_, or Casual +Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such +seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among +the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are +consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, +except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought +to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in +such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing +on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For +after-pains they swallow, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood from the +umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every +subsequent one. + +Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to +catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the +bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one +of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be +attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not +more wonderful than many sympathies upon record. + +There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called _Muicu_. +Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says that he has seen at +this place a fish named _Muicu_, which is no other than the _Blikta_, +taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be +I know not, but I saw plainly that this _Muicu_ is the _Small Sijk_ +(_Salmo Albula_), such as is found in Smoland. + +The following figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The +share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is +four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends +of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them +from the shoulders of the animal, and supports them. + +[Illustration] + + +_September 21._ + +Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Gambla +Carleby. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at +Cronby. + +I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships +are able to load and unload close to the quay. + + +_September 22._ + +Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town of New Carleby, which is +nearly as big as Wexiö. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers, +placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a +handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a +quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely +come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined +to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel. + +The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made +of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small +pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley. + +_Rotkäl_ (_Brassica oleracea_ [kappa], Sp. Pl. 932, _Napo brassica_, or +Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given +with the liquor to the cattle. + +The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of +grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black +ribband in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the +whip slung at their back. + +[Illustration] + +To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several +projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) +which is rolled between their hands. + +In the evening of this day I arrived at Wasa. + + +_September 23._ + +I went to church at Wasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the +south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings. +This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the +governor. + +Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed +copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation +had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a +glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The +sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. I do not +indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems +to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit. + +The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and +Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linnæus here +meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.) + +This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church. +They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad +coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down. + + +_September 24._ + +In my way from New Carleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I +had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before +seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The +latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a +girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is +kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding +forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure. + +[Illustration] + +The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The +soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it; the upper leathers +made of tanned seal-skin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A +representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.) + +_Hypericum_ (_perforatum_), _Scrophularia_ (_nodosa_), _Bidens_ +(_cernua_?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey. +The three species of _Ribes_ (_rubrum_, _alpinum_ and _nigrum_,) were in +prodigious abundance. + + +_September 25._ + +At sun-rise I took my departure from Wasa. The pines in the forest were +stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing +but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of +three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the +breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its +being ... (here is a word not to be decyphered). The trees are left +standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close +to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The +heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are +left to rot on the ground. + +Three miles below Wasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (_Solanum +Dulcamara_). In the town itself I had noticed (_Leonurus_) _Cardiaca_, +and Henbane (_Hyoscyamus niger_). Near the shore grew _Salix oleæfolia_ +with its berries, _(Hippophaë rhamnoides_). It is known by the name of +_Finnbær_ or _Surbær_, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is +situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines +long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four +lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous +matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse, +attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this +cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a +longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries +bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather +too acid. + + +_September 26._ + +I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but before coming to that place, +noticed at Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly +been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was +so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of _Carex +cæspitosa_) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded +almost over one another, and were overgrown by _Polytrichum_ +(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of +them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their +way to any food between the tumps. + +In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears. +These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree, +_Tilia europæa_,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when +stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net +is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set +up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to +the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on +all sides. + + +_September 27._ + +This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood +on a table, and its end being made so as to slide up and down, the wort +is easily poured out. + +Below the town of Christina, I first found the _Lathyrus viciæformis_ +(_L. palustris_), and Water Cresses, (_Sisymbrium Nasturtium_); also +_Campanula persicifolia_ and (_Sedum_) _Telephium_. + + +_September 28._ + +I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from +the Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a +highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the +town of Umoea and Granoen. (See _v._ 1. 141.) + +Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix +f[oe]mina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_?) + +The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass +here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes +insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the +greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_ +here first re-appeared after my long absence. + +N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with +blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of +the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above +indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora +Suecica_, be suspected that Linnæus had, in these two paragraphs, +written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.) + +The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful; +and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me +great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round +the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_, +and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipulæ_) and striated flowers, +(_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted +me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for +cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows +copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head. +The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_ +(probably _Scirpus maritimus_). + +The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so +near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was +frequently visible through the forests. + + +_September 29._ + +I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day. + +When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, +for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards +the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach. + +The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the +crows (_Corvus Cornix_), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds +seek the marshy country in the evening, before it comes on. + +Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them +in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion. + +On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so +hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the +people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, +were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that +of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat +stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half +naked. + +Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, +as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry +across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, +between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a +sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, +others reddish-purple. + +In the evening I arrived at the town of Abo, which is as large as +Orebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often +burnt down by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, +might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these +stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay +loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain +the heat. + + +_September 30._ + +The Finnish liquor called _Lura_ is prepared like other beer, except not +being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence +its purgative quality from the iron. + +Here I saw a flying squirrel (_Sciurus volans_) from Tavasthia. + +The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees +and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four +prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal _Mink_. (This seems to +be _Viverra Lutreola_, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.) + +A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands +has taken notice. (See _v._ 1. 43, _note_.) It is older than that of +Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the +burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it +does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, +containing iron here and there, with small quantities of pyrites. The +mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city. + +The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together. + + +_October 5._ + +I departed from Abo. The corn-fields of Finland are beautiful, and +resemble those of East Gothland in their wide extent and level surface. + +There are regular ferry boats at stated times to take passengers to the +isle of Aland. + + +_October 6._ + +I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, where I was to go on board the +ferry-boat. The shore is a red rock. Passed over to the island of Aland, +the whole of which consists of the same kind of red rock. The palace of +Castelholm, at present falling fast into ruins, is built of this sort of +stone. + +The women use for dyeing a sort of rock _Lichenoides_, of a brown +stercoraceous colour, (perhaps _Lichen stygius_, or _omphalodes_,) which +they boil in water with alum. But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed +without alum. Some add a little Arnotto (_Bixa Orelana_). + +Shoes like short half-boots are worn here made of seal-skin. + + +_October 7._ + +In the evening of this day I passed over the plain of Aland. There were +abundance of Finn-berries (_Hippophaë rhamnoides_) by the road. + + +_October 8._ + +I sailed over the sea of Aland. + + +_October 9._ + +Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been opened. About the church are +sundry sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the small surrounding hills, +as well as at Musangen, very fine and lofty plants of juniper +resembling cypresses, the branches erect and close, assuming a conical +or pyramidal figure. + + +_October 10._ + +About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived safe at Upsal. + +To the Maker and Preserver of all things be praise, honour and glory for +ever! + + * * * * * + +Some observations relative to the Seal, _Phoca vitulina_. + +There are two kinds (or varieties) of this animal. The _Gr[)a] Si[)a]l_ +(Grey Seal) is the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and slightly +clouded on the back. The _Wikare Si[)a]l_ (Creek Seal) is smaller, black +on the back, and very cloudy or wavy at the sides. Otherwise there is no +difference between them. + +The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, being covered with white hair +about an inch long, which it loses in four or five weeks, and becomes +quite black. At the same period it acquires more activity and shyness +than at first. The upper fore teeth are six, very small, resembling +those of a dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at their outer edge, as +in the dog, and furnished with a little notch at their base. Grinders +six. Whiskers remarkably large. There are two nipples a little below the +navel, which the female has a power of drawing in, so as to leave holes +large enough to admit the finger. She lets them out at pleasure to her +young one. + +The seal lies on its back while sleeping, either on the ice or on rocks. +They couple soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21; and the +grey seal brings forth its young in January, the creek seal in February. +The male runs round and round the female many times, with a yelping +noise, being very careful not to be observed. + +When the female has young, the male is very savage, and continually +attends to protect her. She brings forth but one at a birth, which at +first is dull and stupid, easily caught. If thrown into the water, +however, he exerts himself with some activity, and returns to the shore, +not having as yet acquired any shyness. But by the time all his first +coat of white hair is fallen off, he begins to be timid. The growth of +the young seals is very rapid. + +The seal, when out of the water, can hardly distinguish objects at half +a quarter of a mile's distance at the utmost. But in foggy and dull +weather he sees better than in sunshine. He never remains in the water +during moon-light nights. His hearing is acute though he has no external +ears, and his scent is also very quick. He can remain under water for +nearly half a quarter of an hour; but by that time he must, at the peril +of his life, come to the surface to breathe, which he often does within +a fathom of the shore, and he afterwards spouts out water. + +Nets for catching seals are set right out into the sea, from some +promontory, to the distance of twenty fathoms. These are examined every +morning, to see what is caught. They are chiefly set from St. +Bartholomew (August 24), when the moon is in her wane, till over St. +Matthew's day, September 21. + +Grey seals are hunted in winter till Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, +often in great numbers, close to a hole which they have made in it. When +they come out of the water by this opening upon the surface of the ice, +the water they bring with them freezes about its margin, so that in time +the edges become elevated, and it looks like a well. If it should freeze +over, they travel to the south-west, till they can get at water, always +proceeding straight forward, even though they meet with mountains in +their way; and they return in the same direct line back again. The +hunters go with large poles, carefully approaching the creek seal till +they get near enough to fire at him before he is aware. The grey seal +is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon. + +The seals are able to penetrate through the ice from beneath, lying on +their backs under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot make their way +into it from above. + +END OF THE TOUR. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o I. + + + + +A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, + + Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in the Year 1732, at the + Expense of the Royal Academy (of Upsal); by CHARLES LINNÆUS, Student + of Physic and of Natural History, as drawn up by Himself to lay + before the said Academy. + + +The Royal Academy of Sciences having, last Spring, permitted my humble +memorial to be laid before them, respecting the project of a journey to +Lapland, with a view to the improvement of natural history, and having +honoured the same with their approbation, appointing me to undertake +the expedition. I feel it my duty, after having accomplished my journey, +most respectfully to present to the Academy a narrative thereof. + +For the sake of brevity and clearness I shall divide my subject into +three parts. + +1st, A journal of my tour. + +2d, The expenses incurred. + +3d, The advantages likely to accrue. + + + + +I. THE JOURNAL. + + +_May 12, 1732._ + +Having received my instructions from the Royal Academy of Sciences, with +a passport from the Government, and having prepared every thing +necessary for my journey, I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, from +this place (Upsal), carrying with me nothing but what was absolutely +necessary, in order that I might not be detained or interrupted, in case +of not being able always to procure a horse, but might occasionally +pursue my way on foot. As the summer seemed to be fast advancing, I +thought it not advisable to lose time by the way, nor to stray far from +the road, in the early part of the tour, but only to observe attentively +what readily presented itself, that I might reach Lapland with all +possible dispatch. + + +_May 13._ + +By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, where I was obliged to stay all +that day, for it was evening before I received from the governor of the +province (of Gestrickland) the requisite passport, which was accompanied +by orders to all the public officers in his district to give me all +requisite assistance to penetrate, if possible, into Asila Lapmark. + + +_May 14._ + +Owing to the above delay, and my attending morning service the next day +at Gefle church, I could not quit that place till one o'clock. +Proceeding without stopping to Hudwickswald, I there merely spoke a few +words to Mr. Broman the clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby Knylen, +the highest mountain in Medelpad, from whence I went to Sundswall, and +further. In my way I examined a cave formed by nature in a very hard +rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for thieves and highwaymen. + +I was so unfortunate, in my journey through Medelpad, as not to meet +with a single horse that did not tumble with me several times, in +consequence of which I was at one time so severely hurt as to be +scarcely able to remount. Having already collected together a number of +stones and minerals, which were no less burthensome than unnecessary to +carry along with me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I left these +incumbrances. I did not, however, stay there above two hours. + + +_May 20._ + +At length I reached the famous mountain of Skula in Angermanland, at the +very top of which is a large grotto, so neatly formed by nature that +art could scarcely have excelled it. This grotto was represented to me +as quite inaccessible, and it was said that not more than two or three +persons had ever been there; nor was it without great difficulty that I +prevailed on two men to accompany me, every body deeming the project +impracticable. As we climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept forwards, +sometimes slid back again. Now we mounted a considerable way by catching +hold of branches and roots of trees, and then, meeting with steep +inaccessible rocks, were obliged to turn back. After following one of my +guides for about two hours, I thought the other seemed to make more +progress; which induced me to go after the latter. I was scarcely got +two ells out of my former path, than the man whose track I had left +loosened a large stone with his foot, which fell on the very spot I had +quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded by fire and smoke, +and should certainly, but for the protecting hand of Providence, have +been crushed to pieces. We reached the grotto at length, after much +labour and trouble, and descended the mountain with much greater +facility. Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which grew close to the +rocks, we slid down upon them, dragging them after us down the +precipices. + + +_May 23._ + +I at length, after twelve days journey, reached Umoea. + +It had originally been my design to go to Asila Lapmark, in order to +observe what plants are able to endure the very hard winters of that +region, but I was obliged to change my plan. The summer would not have +been long enough, nor my stock of money sufficient to enable me to reach +that most northern part of the country, where the severity of the +climate is augmented by the cold north wind and the vast snowy +mountains. I applied, therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of Umoea, +for a passport to the nearer parts of Lapland, which was immediately +granted. This gentleman showed the greatest readiness to befriend me, +and appeared to take much interest in the success of my undertaking. He +gave such orders as might cause the public officers in Lapland to lay no +obstacles in my way, but rather to assist me by every means in their +power. He himself gave me much curious information, and showed me his +own garden, that I might observe what plants would stand the winter +here: concluding by expressing, in the most flattering terms, his +approbation of my appointment. + + +_May 25._ + +The following morning I set out on my way towards Lapmark. Leaving the +highway, I came to one of the most unpleasant roads I ever travelled. It +was covered with stones, betwixt which were thick entangled roots of +trees, and among them were deep holes full of water. The whole ground +was a marsh, which the frost was at this time just about quitting. Large +pine-trees, that had been blown down in the course of the stormy winter, +frequently crossed my path; and the more flexible birches, weighed down +by the snow, interrupted my course on all sides. I frequently came to +such steep heathy places that my horse could scarcely climb or descend +them, and in the bottoms between them were marshy tracts, with rivulets +destitute of bridges, so that my beast slipped down several times; and +as I passed the streams, the water reached up to my saddle. I then +regretted, what I had in the former part of my journey so much detested, +travelling on the high-way on these stumbling horses, and would rather +have descended the steepest hill in Angermannia than have chosen the +present road, for at every step the horse took, I thought he would have +fallen. + +In the evening of + + +_May 28,_ + +however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven +miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having +reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night. + + +_May 29._ + +The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as +Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five +miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve. + + +_May 30._ + +Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the +minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to +wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me +to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had +made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might +meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming +unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast. +Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence +of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that +account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the +colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one +of the native Laplanders. + + +_May 31._ + +The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with +me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of +provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh +of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I +well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals +or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our +boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my +own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise. + + +_June 1._ + +Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander, +we left our boat on the shore of the river, and went in search of this +man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or +enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met, +however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other +resided. + +Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here +in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future +guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had +met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However, +about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of +me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and +fresh water. + +I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to +a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not +dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had +to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite destitute of +provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing +but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, +nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their +reindeer. + + +_June 2._ + +On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to +proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by +falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further, +which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After +walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a +mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our +knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we +often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in +vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a +little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former, +and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken +than to pass this place, especially as the elements were all adverse, +for it blowed and rained violently. + + +_June 3._ + +By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we +still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could +proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and +having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of +taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me +on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the +gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to +sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had +set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could +not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in +case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however, +he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair +hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely +think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this +woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou +poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest +thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger +here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to +go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish, +without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what +she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which +she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed +heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether, +and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This +woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and +that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke +of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have +undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now +not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path, +whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In +traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, +and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer +cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman +refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My +hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was +induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling +her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it +not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the +most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion, +and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the +course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth, +undertaken more than it was possible to perform. + +We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great +velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to +an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the +boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found +ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon +landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet +and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea +cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or +_Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_, +see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island +to the shore. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out +of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the +river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist, +who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to +Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the +8th of June arrived at Umoea. + + +_June 12._ + +Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived +after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as +the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the +principal clergyman of the place. + + +_June 19._ + +I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring +coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however +I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I +was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of +reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the +horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at +Tornea. + + +_June 25._ + +Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I +continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights, +having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are +excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which +are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of +their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the passengers are not +careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and +three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I +received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions +sufficient to last me for eight days. + + +_July 6._ + +After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended +_Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is +indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who +served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his +assistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on +these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I +willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant +for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part +of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted +less to assist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient +incumbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into +the bargain. + +On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here +were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger +and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor +any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to +shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the +mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the +Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young +along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering +influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in +the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun +never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by +climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could +see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the grass +and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all +nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these +vegetable rarities, while the time passed unperceived away, and my +interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles +to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any +rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded +therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes passing along their +precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and +for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening +of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was +at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception, +and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between. +Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight +hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the +milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for +my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in +his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to +have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a +mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon. + +After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I +steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea, +proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the +country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me +to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that +side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had +no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me, +accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy +crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the +cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer +skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more +favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence +the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very +delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding +its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest +trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps, +it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our +calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance. +At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so +stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings +than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and +beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the +tall grass reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild +fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps, +seemed to refresh me both in mind and body. + +Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the +house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a +boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the +celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find nobody +willing to venture near it. + +We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind +proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with +rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions, +zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied +every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr. +Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception. + +Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind +exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place +from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour +for that purpose. + +On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains, +with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in +perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a +stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small +distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so, +thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined. +Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a +considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a +second time, and I determined never to go there again without some +protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked +attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the +subject. + +On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was +employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and +exhaustion, the ground we had to pass over being so extremely steep as +well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had +sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves. + +From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were +described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the +course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps +was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and +how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst +evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were +enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes +rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very +circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This +fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment, +for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive +heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but +it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting +snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the +inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their +huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable +distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this +inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several +days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The +rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread, +and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of +costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to +return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the +course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow, +without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy +crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable +to assist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so +hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not +in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able +to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh +in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of +my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before. + +At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without +tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential +support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of +it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I +remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards +descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north +of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our +voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to +overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved +ourselves, and it being night, nobody heard our cries for assistance. + +The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner +of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea. + +Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from +thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I +entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I +found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles +back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town +of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district, +and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a +boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as +the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn, +and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to +see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick +passage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as +I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to +enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I +considered that in a new country there is always something new to be +seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford +but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination, +at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea +voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, +had long been waiting for a fair wind. + +I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and +Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina, +Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I +then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on +the 10th of October reached Upsal. + +The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 +English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined. + + Miles. + From Upsal to Umoea 60 + Umoea to Lycksele 12 + Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25 + From thence again to Umoea 37 + From Umoea to Pithoea 22 + Pithoea to Longoen 3 + Back again to Pithoea 3 + From thence to Lulea 5 + Lulea to Quickjock 33 + Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25 + From thence to the Norway coast 10 + Excursion by sea, and back again, 14 + From Norway to Caitum 40 + From Caitum to Quickjock 40 + Quickjock to Tornea 47 + Tornea to Kimi 5 + From hence to Maxaniemi 5 + Maxaniemi to Calix 9 + Calix to Kengis 32 + Kengis to Jonesvando 40 + Jonesvando to Tornea 26 + Tornea to Abo 100 + Abo to Upsal 40 + ----- + 633 + +(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the +advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this +"brief narrative," are not found in the manuscript.) + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o II. + + +The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a +view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was +translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly +communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany +the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It +is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication +I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the +work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course +of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his +inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a +foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native +Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every +part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of +my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take +advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual +conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged +to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, +because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use." + +The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of +observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not +only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least +taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and +unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to +English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What +we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank +amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one +of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it. + + * * * * * + +Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which +describes a separate line of elevation. + +1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjäll_), we first arrive at the +line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had +previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, +covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy +object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, +before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. +With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, +&c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of +_Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and +_Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ +(Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the +rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. +The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual +snow, and the mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's thermometer +(37½ of Fahrenheit). + +2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so +tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their +branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_, +_Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a +very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows +_Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the +berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. +_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), +soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when +the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, +and the mean temperature about 2,°5 of Celsius (36½ of Fahrenheit.) A +little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual +snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which +live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for +instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips +grow large enough to be worth cultivating. + +3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its +short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem +prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light +green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of +vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be +entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, +where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is +2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much +wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, +_Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little +before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus +Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any +fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, +_Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the +reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. +Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, +_Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The +drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago +frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the +utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is +found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases. + +4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjäll_ (Alps). Near +rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, +consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament +to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking +_Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper +bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about. +Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda +cærulea_ and _Trientalis europæa_. The more boggy ground is decorated +with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis +lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has +the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris +crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet +of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no +higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamæmorus_ still ripen here, +but not at a greater degree of elevation. + +5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not +above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is +of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier +situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed +with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea +lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant +spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, +produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus +leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places +_Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are +observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of +elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large +as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary +of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The +Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for +their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean +temperature is about +1° of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit). + +6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. +The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as +_Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and +_hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed +to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana +tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the +yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no +reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas +octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of +perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow. + +7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the +ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are +here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at +the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, +and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some +few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy +brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, +quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga +stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and +_glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene +acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is ++0,°4 of Celsius, (32¾ of Fahrenheit). + +8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much +diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other +similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock +rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet +above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some +umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophoræ_), &c., still occur in the crevices of +perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of +perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the +mean temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The +Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits +this elevated spot. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Abo, ii. 230. + _Acer platanoides_, ii. 227. + Aconite, yellow, i. 36. + _Aconitum lycoctonum_, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. 79, 123, 277. + Adam and Eve, i. 28. + _Adoxa moschatellina_, i. 37. + _Agaricus_, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. 158. + _Agrostis arundinacea_, ii. 228. + ---- _rubra_, ii. 91. + Agues, i. 29, 180. + _Aira alpina_, ii. 279. + Aland, ii. 233. + _Alca Torda_, i. 64, 65. + Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277. + _Alnus incana_, ii. 277. + _Alopecurus geniculatus_, ii. 92. + Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. 272. + _Amanita_, ii. 158. + Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50-58. + _Anas arctica_, i. 65. + _Andromeda cærulea_, i. 272. ii. 278. + ---- _hypnoides_, i. 320. ii. 280. + ---- _polifolia_, i. 23, 188, 189. + ---- _tetragona_, ii. 28, 29, 280. + _Anemone Hepatica_, i. 11, 32. ii. 228. + ---- _ranunculoides_, i. 11. + ---- _vernalis_, i. 15. + _Angelica Archangelica_, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 171, 316. ii. 76. + Angermanland, i. 48. + Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83. + _Anthericum calyculatum_, i. 257. + _Apis terrestris_, i. 159. + Apple-trees, i. 61. + _Arabis thaliana_, i. 33. + _Aranea palustris_, } + ---- _riparia_, } i. 258. + _Arbutus alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _Uva ursi_, i. 7, 23, 250. + _Ardea cinerea_, ii. 255. + _Arena Glarea_, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166. + ---- _mobilis_, i. 16. + _Artemisia vulgaris_, ii. 201. + _Arum_, i. 200. + _Arundo Calamagrostis_, ii. 90. + ---- _Phragmites_, ii. 275. + Ash, i. 68. + Aspen, i. 77, 179. + _Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_, ii. 227. + _Asplenium Trichomanes_, i. 55. + _Astragalus alpinus_, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. 2. + ---- _leontinus_, ii. 279. + ---- _montanus_, ii. 279. + _Azalea lapponica_, i. 299. ii. 279. + ---- _procumbens_, i. 285. ii. 279. + + + B. + + _Bannisteria._ See _Diapensia_. + Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77. + ---- pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + ---- willow used for tanning, i. 80. + ---- birch used for tanning, i. 249. + Barley, i. 57, 67, 73. + _Bartramia fontana_, i. 181-184. + ---- _pomiformis_, i. 13, 38. + _Bartsia alpina_, ii. 119. + Bears, ii. 215, 275. + Beaver, i. 88-91. + Beech, i. 68. + _Betula alba_, i. 48. + ---- _incana_, i. 48. ii. 277. + ---- _nana_, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50, 278, 279. + _Bicornes_, i. 22. + Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208. + Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. 276. + ---- dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139. + Bird-traps, i. 179. + _Bixa Orelana_, ii. 233. + Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217. + Boat, Lapland, i. 98. + Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167. + _Boletus igniarius_, used as a pincushion, i. 85. + ---- _suaveolens_, employed as a perfume, i. 151. + Bothland, East, ii. 151-166, 201-232. + Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201. + Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. 147. + _Brassica oleracea_, ii. 219. + Bream, i. 27. + _Bryum bimum_, i. 185. + ---- _pomiforme_, i. 13. + Buck-bean, i. 86, 200. + Buck-wheat, i. 166. + Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282. + Burnet, i. 220. + Butter, i. 110. + _Byssus_, i. 84, 156. + ---- _cryptarum_, i. 47, 55. + ---- _flos aquæ_, i. 4. + ---- _Jolithus_, i. 26. + ---- red, i. 26. + + + C. + + _Calla palustris_, i. 200, 245, 350. + _Callitriche autumnalis_, i. 62. + ---- _verna_, i. 62. + _Caltha palustris_, i. 5, 68. + _Cameraria_, i. 176. + _Campaniformes_, i. 10. + _Campanula persicifolia_, ii. 226. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, i. 20, 37. + ---- _uniflora_, ii. 280. + _Canis Vulpes_, i. 71. + Caper, Swedish, i. 5. + _Carex_, i. 5, 167. + ---- _cæspitosa_, ii. 225. + ---- _globularis_, ii. 275. + ---- _panicea_, ii. 98. + ---- _sylvatica_, i. 276. ii. 21, 46. + ---- _ustulata_, ii. 279. + Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. 215. + Cataract of Elf-Carleby, i. 12. + Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52. + Chaff, eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + _Chamædaphne_, i. 188. + Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363. + _Charadrius Hiaticula_, i. 93, 323. + Charr, i. 128. ii. 277. + Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197. + Cherries, i. 62. + _Chrysomela graminis_, i. 48. + ---- _lapponica_, i. 77. + _Chrysosplenium alternifolium_, i. 9. + Church tyranny, i. 157. + Church at Lulea, i. 239. + _Cicindela sylvatica_, i. 175. + _Cicuta virosa_, i. 246. ii. 136, 143. + Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62. + Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158. + Clay, i. 31, 73. + Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203. + Club-moss, i. 20. + _Coccinella trifasciata_, i. 179. + Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93. + _Colymbus arcticus_, i. 27, 176. ii. 98, 151. + ---- _auritus_, i. 118. + _Comarum palustre_, i. 158. + _Confervæ_, i. 336. + _Convallaria bifolia_, i. 58. ii. 274. + Cookery, i. 248; + performed by the men, i. 132. + _Coralloides_, i. 8, 84. + _Corallorrhiza_, i. 223, 245. ii. 47. + Corals, petrified, i. 30. + _Cornus suecica_, i. 177, 189. + _Corvus Cornix_, ii. 229. + ---- _glandarius_, ii. 110. + ---- _infaustus_, ii. 109, 255. + _Cos molaris_, i. 30. + Costmary, i. 220. + Cotton-Rush, i. 68. + Cradles, different kinds of, i. 190. + Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. 26. + Cranberries, i. 208. + Cranes, i. 94. + Cross-bills, i. 70. + Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62. + _Cuculus canorus_, i. 23, 319. + _Culex pipiens_, i. 159. + ---- _pulicaris_, i. 238, 251. + ---- _reptans_, i. 209, 251. ii. 115. + _Cypræa_, ii. 191. + _Cyprinus Aphya_, i. 102. + ---- _Brama_, i. 27. + _Cypripedium Calceolus_, ii. 112. + + + D. + + _Daphne_, i. 23. + _Dermestes murinus_, i. 206. + _Diapensia lapponica_, i. 285. ii. 280. + _Dillenia_. See _Azalea_. + Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. 32-35. + ---- of cattle, i. 245. + Diver, black-throated, i. 27. + _Draba alpina_, ii. 280. + ---- _verna_, i. 5. + Dress, travelling, of Linnæus, i. 1. + ---- of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326-335. ii. 10, 110, 144-150. + _Dryas octopetala_, ii. 280. + Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118. + Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170. + _Dytiscus natator_, i. 100. + + + E. + + East Bothland, ii. 151-166. 201-232. + Elf-Carleby, i. 15. + Elm, common, i. 22, 68. + _Elymus arenarius_, ii. 204. + _Emberiza Hortulanus_, i. 71. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 71. ii. 97, 282. + _Empetrum nigrum_, i. 138, 139, 152. ii. 26, 280. + _Empis borealis_, i. 87, 179. + _Ephemera_, i. 73, 177. + _Epilobium augustifolium_, ii. 87. + ---- _palustre_ [beta], i. 283. + _Equisetum hyemale_, i. 121. + _Erica vulgaris_, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. 119, 277. + _Erigeron uniflorum_, ii. 279. + _Eriophorum alpinum_, i, 177, 254. + ---- _polystachion_, i. 68. + ---- _vaginatum_, i. 68. + _Erysimum Barbarea_, i. 255, 267. [beta], i. 72. + + + F. + + Festivals, i. 114, 157. + Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29. + Fir, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202. + ---- spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202. + Fisheries, i. 128, 163. + Flax, i. 200. + Flesh-fly, i. 159. + Food of the Laplanders, i. 154. + Foxes, i. 71, 250. + Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79. + _Fringilla Montifringilla_, i. 23, 29. + Frogs, imagined to live in a woman's stomach, i. 111. + Frog-spittle, i. 214. + _Fucus_, i. 336. ii. 263. + _Fumaria bulbosa minima_, i. 37. + Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 12. + + + G. + + Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231. + Gad-fly, i. 215. + _Gadus virens_, i. 341. + Gale, sweet, i. 19. + _Galium boreale_, ii. 275. + _Gentiana nivalis_, ii. 280. + ---- _tenella_, ii. 280. + _Geranium sylvaticum_, i. 283. + Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. 241. + _Glires_, i. 89. + Glirr, i. 102. + Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238. + Goosander, i. 94-96. + Granite, i. 9, 30, 35. + Grayling, i. 61. + Grebe, little-eared, i. 118. + Grous, black, i. 23. + Grous, wood, i. 179. + Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. 242. + Grundell, Baron, i. 70. ii. 245. + _Gryllus domesticus_, i. 254. + Gulls, i. 75. + Gwiniad, small, i. 161. + _Gyrophoræ_, ii. 282. + + + H. + + Hair-moss, great, i. 171, 191. + Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74. + Hare, i. 89. + Harness, rein-deer, i. 104. + Harr, i. 61. + Hazle, i. 62, 68. + Heart's ease, i. 41. + Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 56. + _Hedera Helix_, i. 21. + Helsingland, i. 25. + _Hepatica_, i. 11. + _Hieracium Pilosella_, i. 5. + _Hippophaë rhamnoides_, ii. 224, 233. + Hobgoblins, supposed to inhabit the mountains, i. 221. + Hops, i. 36, 62. + Horns of the reindeer, i. 135. + Horsetail, naked, i. 121. + Househould [oe]conomy of the Laplanders, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, + 340. ii. 5-18, 23-26, 47-50. + Humble-bee, i. 159. + _Humulus Lupulus_, ii. 122, 228. + Hunting the bear, ii. 83-85. + Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155. + _Hyoscyamus niger_, ii. 224. + _Hypnum parietinum_, i. 8. + + + I. + + Implements of husbandry, i. 65. + Insects at Bumoen, i. 200. + ---- Lulea, i. 233. + ---- Pithoea, i. 216. + ---- Umoen, i. 192-194. + _Iris Pseudacorus_, ii. 228. + Ivy, i. 21. + Itinerary of Linnæus, ii. 270. + + + J. + + Jarf, i. 71. + _Juncellus aquaticus_, i. 122. + _Juncus campestris_, i. 5. + ---- _curvatus_, ii. 281. + ---- _trifidus_, i. 279. + ---- _triglumis_, ii. 112. + Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156. + _Jussiea._ See _Sibbaldia_. + + + K. + + Kettle, method of boiling, i. 198. + Kids, i. 10. + Kimi, ii. 146-151. + Korssraff, i. 71. + Kowall, i. 111. + + + L. + + Lady-bird, i. 179. + _Lapis molaris_, i. 30. + Lapland Alps, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to determine the height of, ii. 272. + Lapland minerals, ii. 35-37. + ---- Norwegian, i. 322-335. + Laplanders' amusements, ii. 50-58. + ---- character, i. 132. + ---- dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326-335. ii. 110, 144-150. + ---- diseases, ii. 32-35. + ---- food, i. 154. + ---- substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86. + ---- household [oe]conomy, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340, 341. ii. 5-18, + 23-26, 47-50. + ---- huts, i. 125-127, 155. + ---- marriages, ii. 67-76. + ---- shop, i. 119, 120. + ---- weapons, i. 137. + Lark, i. 6. + _Larus canus_, i. 75, 319. + _Lathyrus palustris_, ii. 226. + _Ledum palustre_, i. 23, 246. ii. 275. + _Leontodon Taraxacum_, i. 5. + _Leonurus Cardiaca_, ii. 224. + _Lepas Balanoides_, i. 336. + ---- _Balanus_, i. 336. + _Lernea asellina_, i. 341. + _Libellula forcipata_, i. 190. + ---- _Virgo_, i. 190. + _Lichen arcticus_, i. 31. + ---- _byssoides_, i. 84. + ---- _caninus_, i. 31. + ---- _cocciferus_, i. 84. + ---- _ericetorum_, i. 156. + ---- _islandicus_, i. 24. ii. 200. + ---- _jubatus_, ii. 171. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 4, 85. + ---- _omphalodes_, ii. 233. + ---- _rangiferinus_, i. 84, 161, 318. ii. 18, 88, 108, 128, 199, 277. + ---- _stygius_, ii. 233. + ---- _uncialis_, i. 82, 84. + ---- _velleus_, i. 213. + Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, 161. + _Ligusticum Levisticum_, i. 73. + Lime-tree, i. 68. + Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139. + _Linnæa borealis_, i. 21, 37, 203, 229. + _Lithospermum arvense_, i. 5. + _Lonicera Xylosteum_, ii. 227. + _Loxia curvirostra_, i. 70. + _Ludus Helmontii_, i. 8. + Lulea, i. 228-255. + Lulean Lapland, i. 256-283. ii. 81-130. + Lumme, i. 27, 176. + _Lychnis alpina_, ii. 19. + ---- _apetala_, ii. 279. + ---- _dioica_, i. 33. + ---- _Viscaria_, ii. 19. + Lycksele Lapland, i. 96-194. + ---- parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. 242. + _Lycopodium alpinum_, } + ---- _clavatum_, } i. 20. + ---- _complanatum_, } + ---- _Selago_, } + _Lycopsis arvensis_, i. 253. + _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, ii. 275. + _Lythrum Salicaria_, ii. 164. + + + M. + + Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131. + Maple, i. 68. + Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii. 67-76. + Meal-berry, i. 250. + Medelpad, i. 35. + _Medusa aurita_, i. 338. + _Medusa capillata_, i. 336. + ---- _cruciata_, i. 338. + _Melampyrum pratense_, } i. 110, 111. + ---- _sylvaticum_, } + _Menyanthes trifoliata_, i. 86, 200, 352. + _Mergus Merganser_, i. 94-96. + _Mesomora_, i. 177, 189. + _Mica_, i. 26, 247. + Mice, i. 89. + _Michelia._ See _Azalea lapponica_. + Milk, i. 59, 242-244, 273, 317. + ---- preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. 181. + Minerals, ii. 35-37. + Mining, i. 195, 196. + Missne, i. 86. + Money-wort, i. 229. + _Montia fontana_, i. 176. + Mosses, their fructification, i. 181-186. + Motacilla flava, i. 71. + Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. 244. + _Mures_, i. 89. + _Mus Lemmus_, i. 102, 162, 303. + _Musca carnaria_, i. 159. + _Muscus lichenoides_, i. 213. + ---- _tectorius_, i. 85. + _Mustela Gulo_, i. 71. ii. 50, 279. + _Mya arenaria_, i. 237. + ---- _margaritifera_, ii. 105. + _Myosotis scorpioides_, i. 5. + _Myrica Gale_, i. 19, 208. + + + N. + + _Nardus stricta_, i. 236. + _Narthecium ossifragum_, i. 257. + Norway, i. 335-366. + Norwegian Lapland, i. 322-335. + _Nostoc_, i. 263. + _Nux vomica_, i. 112. + + + O. + + Oak, i. 68. + Ochre, i. 62, 63. + [OE]conomy of the Torneans, ii. 173-182. + _[OE]strus nasalis_, ii. 45. + ---- _Tarandi_, i. 293. ii. 2, 23. + _Oniscus aquaticus_, i. 206. + _Ophrys alpina_, ii. 279. + ---- _cordata_, ii. 109. + Orchis, palmated, i. 178. + Ore, silver, i. 246. + _Orobus vernus_, ii. 228. + Ortolans, i. 71. + Owls, i. 93, 204. + Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210. + _Oxalis Acetosella_, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + P. + + _Paris quadrifolia_, i. 138. + _Pedicularis_, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. 277. + ---- _flammea_, i. 296. ii. 280. + ---- _hirsuta_, ii. 280. + _Pedicularis lapponica_, ii. 278. + _Perca fluviatilis_, ii. 86. + Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364. + _Pes pelicani_, i. 336. + _Petromyzon fluviatilis_, ii. 196. + _Phaca alpina_, ii. 275. + _Phoca vitulina_, ii. 234. + _Phrygania bicaudata_, i. 74. + _Pica lapponum_, i. 175. + Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162. + Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140. + _Pinguicula_, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. 109. + ---- _villosa_, i. 255. + _Pinus Abies_, i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. 274, 275. + ---- _nodosa_, i. 214. + ---- _plicata_, i. 7. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 25, 49. ii. 60, 66, 157, 275, 276. + Pipsten, i. 30. + _Pisum maritimum_, ii. 203. + Pithoea, i. 194-228. ii. 256. + Plants at Calix, ii. 193, 195, 196. + ---- Flaskesele, i. 116, 117. + ---- Gräno, i. 174. + ---- Jö, ii. 202. + ---- Jockmock, i. 265, 266. + ---- Kimi, ii. 147, 151-153. + ---- Kiomitis, i. 269-272. + ---- Koskesvari, i. 258-260. + ---- Limingo, ii. 212, 213. + ---- Lulea, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. 122, 125. + ---- Sastmola, ii. 227. + ---- Skargarden, i. 220, 221. + ---- Torfiolme, i. 345. + ---- Tornea, ii. 125, 131, 136-144, 169, 172. + ---- Umoea, i. 181-186. + ---- Upland, i. 325. + ---- Wallavari, i. 283-291, 293-303. + ---- Wasa, ii. 223. + ---- Zangis, ii. 128-130. + Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98-100. + Plants and fishes near Pithoea, i. 222-228. + Plovers, ringed, i. 93. + _Polygonum Fagopyrum_, i. 166. + ---- _viviparum_, i. 282. + _Polypodium_, i. 55. + _Polytrichum_, i. 85, 191. ii. 225. + ---- _commune_, i. 124, 171. + _Populus tremula_, i. 77, ii. 277. + _Potamogeton gramineum_, ii. 112. + ---- perfoliatum, ii. 92. + Potatoes, i. 62. + _Poterium Sanguisorba_, i. 220. + _Primula_, i. 5, 277. + _Prunus Padus_, ii. 277. + Ptarmigan, i. 35, 150. + _Pteris crispa_, ii. 278. + _Pyrolæ_, i. 17. + _Pyrus Aucuparia_, ii. 277. + + + Q. + + Quicksand, i. 63. + + + R. + + _Ranunculus acris_, i. 203. + ---- _aquatilis_, ii. 91. + ---- _glacialis_, ii. 281, 282. + ---- _lapponicus_, i. 156, 252. + ---- _nivalis_, ii. 281. + Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121. + Reindeer, i. 68, 79, 103-110, 113, 127, 135, 161, 280, 307-314. ii. 22, + 37-46, 107, 110. + ---- method of castrating, ii. 3. + _Ribes alpinum_, ii. 227. + ---- _rubrum_, i. 257. + _Rosa cinnamomea_, ii. 274. + Rocking children, various modes of, i. 190. + _Rubus arcticus_, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. 118, 274. + ---- _Chamæmorus_, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. 109, 279. + ---- _fruticosus_, ii. 118. + ---- _idæus_, ii. 118. + ---- _saxatilis_, ii. 118, 228. + Ruffs and Reeves, i. 71. + _Rumex Acetosa_, i. 102, 153, 315, 366. + ---- digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. 281. + Rye, i. 56, 57, 67. + + + S. + + _Salix caprea_, i. 5. + ---- _glauca_, ii. 278. + ---- _hastata_, ii. 278. + ---- _Helix_, i. 17. + ---- _lanata_, i. 77. ii. 279. + ---- _Lapponum_, ii. 26. + _Salix myrsinites_, ii. 279. + ---- _pentandra_, ii. 275. + ---- _phylicifolia_, i. 242. + ---- _rosmarinifolia_, ii. 183. + Sallow-tree, i. 55. + _Salmo Albula_, i. 161. ii. 86, 89, 216. + ---- _alpinus_, i. 127, 305-307. ii. 277. + ---- _Lavaretus_, i. 160. ii. 37, 97, 167, 275. + ---- _Salar_, ii. 116, 189. + ---- _Thymallus_, i. 61. ii. 275. + Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. 117. + Sandpipers, i. 93. + _Satyrium viride_, i. 178. + _Saxifraga_, i. 10. ii. 280. + _Saxum fornacum_, i. 30. + _Scarabæus_, i. 206. + _Sceptrum Carolinum_, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. 119, 277. + _Scheuchzeria palustris_, i. 257. + _Sch[oe]nus Mariscus_, i. 150. + _Scirpus cæspitosus_, i. 122, 150. + ---- _maritimus_, ii. 228. + _Sciurus volans_, ii. 231. + ---- _vulgaris_, ii. 49. + _Scolopax Gallinago_, i. 19. + Seals, remarks on, ii. 234. + _Sedum Telephium_, ii. 226. + _Serratula alpina_, i. 259. + Shop, Laplander's, i. 119. + _Sibbaldia procumbens_, i. 284. + _Silene acaulis_, ii. 281. + _Sisymbrium Nasturtium_, ii. 226. + Skelleftea, i. 203. + Skula, mountain, ii. 242. + Sledge, i. 104. + _Solanum Dulcamara_, ii. 224. + _Solidago Virgaurea_, ii. 87. + _Sonchus alpinus_, ii. 60, 77-79, 277. + _Sorbus_, ii. 277. + _Spergula arvensis_, i. 353. + _Sphagnum_, i. 37, 139, 156, 165. + ---- _palustre_, ii. 109. + _Sphinx Filipendulæ_, i. 321. + Spiders, i. 23. + Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. 231. + Squirrels, i. 89, 176. + _Stellaria minima_, i. 238. + ---- _nemorum_, i. 279. + _Strix Bubo_, i. 39, 210-213. + ---- _Ulula_, i. 205. + Struthiopteris, ii. 277. + Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364. + Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244. + Swallows, i. 71. + _Swammerdamia_, i. 237. + Swans, i. 94. + + + T. + + Talc, i. 42. + _Talcum Ollaris_, i. 356. + _Tanacetum Balsamita_, i. 220. + _Tanacetum vulgare_, ii. 201. + Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. 120, 121. + _Taxus baccata_, i. 11. + Tents of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 7. + _Tetrao Lagopus_, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. 258. + ---- _Tetrix_, i. 23. + ---- _Urogallus_, i. 78, 177, 179. ii. 96. + _Thalictrum alpinum_, i. 277. + ---- _flavum_, i. 138. + _Thlaspi arvense_, i. 5. + _Tilia europæa_, ii. 225. + _Tipula juniperi_, i. 21. + ---- _rivosa_, i. 186. + Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's stomach, i. 112. + Tobacco, i. 62, 86. + _Tofieldia palustris_, i. 257, 265, 366. + Tordmule, i. 64. + _Tormentilla officinalis_, i. 155. + Tornea, ii. 130-146, 166-201. + ---- [oe]conomical remarks concerning the neighbourhood of, ii. 173-182. + Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180. + ---- salmon, i. 206. + Trefoil, water, i. 86. + _Tremella juniperina_, i. 175. + _Trientalis_, i. 282. ii. 278. + _Tringa hypoleucos,_ i. 117. + ---- _pugnax_, i. 71. + _Tringæ_, i. 93. + _Turdus iliacus_, i. 6, 23, 121, 176. + _Tussilago frigida_, ii. 277. + ---- _nivea_, ii. 275. + + + V. + + _Vaccinium Myrtillus_, i. 23, 25, 35, 49, 124, 208. ii. 275. + ---- _Oxycoccos_, i. 208. + ---- _uliginosum_, ii. 279. + ---- _Vitis Idæa_, i. 23, 124, 137, 258. + _Veronica alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, ii. 275. + _Viburnum Opulus_, ii. 227. + _Vicia sylvatica_, ii. 228. + _Viola biflora_, i. 138, 279. ii. 278. + ---- _canina_, i. 42. + ---- _lactea_, i. 42. + ---- _lutea_, i. 41. + ---- _odorata_, i. 5. + ---- _palustris_, i. 20, 45. + ---- _tricolor_, i. 5, 41. + Violet, aquatic, i. 42. + ---- marsh, i. 20, 45. + ---- yellow, i. 138. + _Viverra Lutreola_, ii. 231. + + + U. + _Ulvæ_, i. 336. + Umoea, i. 69, 178. + Upland, i. 2. + Upsal, i. 3. ii. 234. + + + W. + + Wagtail, water, i. 62. + Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine the height of the + Lapland Alps, ii. 272. + Wallavari mountain, ii. 257. + Wasp, i. 159. + Weapons, i. 137. + Well, mineral, i. 241. + West Bothland, i. 67. + Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137. + Willows, i. 61, 68, 80, 138, 249. + Winter-green, i. 17. + Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + X. + + _Xyphias Gladius_, i. 335. + + + Y. + Yellow-hammer, i. 71. + Yew, i. 11. + +THE END. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Vol i. p 134, line 11, read _set in_. + +206, line 3 from the bottom, for _Dean_ read _principal clergyman_. + +246, line 16, read _some of the Nasaphiel silver ore_. + + * * * * * + +_Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe-Lane, London._ + +_Of the Publishers of this Work may be had the following Works, written +or edited by_ DR. SMITH. + + + 1. PLANTARUM ICONES HACTENUS INEDITÆ, plerumque ad Plantas in + Herbario Linnæano conservatas delineatæ. Fascic. I. II. III. Small + Folio, each containing 25 Plates, Price Three Guineas in Boards. + 1789, &c. + + 2. CAROLI LINNÆI FLORA LAPPONICA, exhibens Plantas per Lapponiam + crescentes, secundum Systema Sexuale, collectas in Itinere Impensis + Reg. Scient. Upsaliensis Anno 1782 instituto. Additis Synonymis, et + Locis Natalibus omnium, Descriptionibus et Figuris rariorum, Viribus + medicatis et [oe]conomicis plurimarum. Editio altera, aucta et + emendata. 1792. In one Volume Octavo, with a Frontispiece and Twelve + Engravings. 12_s._ in Boards. + + 3. A SKETCH of a TOUR on the CONTINENT. The Second Edition. 1807. 3 + Vols. 8vo. Price 1£. 7_s._ in Boards. + + 4. TRACTS relating to NATURAL HISTORY, with coloured Plates. 8vo. + 1798. 7_s._ Boards. + + 5. FLORA BRITANNICA, Vol. I. II. III. 8vo. 1800, &c. 1£. 6_s._ 6_d._ + Boards.--The Fourth Volume of this Work will be published as + speedily as possible. + + 6. COMPENDIUM FLORÆ BRITANNICÆ, Pars I. Crown 8vo. 3_s._ sewed.--The + Conclusion of this Work will appear with that of the preceding. + + 7. An INTRODUCTION to PHYSIOLOGICAL and SYSTEMATICAL BOTANY. Second + Edition. 1809. 8vo. with 14 Plates. 14_s._ Boards; or with the + Plates coloured, 1£. 8_s._ in Boards. + + 8. A TOUR to HAFOD in CARDIGANSHIRE, the seat of THOMAS JOHNES, + Esq., M. P.; beautifully printed by Beasley in Super-royal Folio, + and accompanied by FIFTEEN VIEWS (Size 20 Inches by 13½) engraved + in Aquatinta and coloured to imitate the original drawings, by JOHN + SMITH. Price Twelve Guineas in Boards.--Only 100 Copies are printed. + + 9. FLORA GRÆCA: sive Plantarum rariorum Historia, quas in Provinciis + aut Insulis Græciæ legit, investigavit, et depingi curavit JOHANNES + SIBTHORP, M. D. S. S. Reg. et Linn. Lond. Socius, Bot. Professor + Regius in Academia Oxoniensi. Hic illic etiam insertæ sunt pauculæ + Species quas Vir idem clarissimus, Græciam versus navigans, in + Itinere, præsertim apud Italiam et Siciliam, invenerit. Characteres + omnium, Descriptiones et Synonyma elaboravit JACOBUS EDVARDUS SMITH, + M. D. &c. Fasciculi I. et II. Folio (forming the First Volume.) with + 50 beautifully coloured Engravings in each, Price Twelve Guineas + each in Boards.--The Third Fasciculus is in considerable + Forwardness. + + 10. PRODROMUS FLORE GRÆCÆ, Pars I. et II. (forming the First Volume) + Royal 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._ each Part in Boards. + + +_Also published by_ WHITE _and_ COCHRANE, + + The LIFE of Sir CHARLES LINNÆUS. To which are added, a copious List + of his Works, and a Biographical Sketch of the Life of his Son, by + D. H. STOEVER. Translated from the original German by JOSEPH TRAPP, + A. M. Handsomely printed in Quarto, with a Portrait, Price One + Guinea in Boards.--A few Copies in Royal Quarto, Price 1£, 11_s._ + 6_d._ + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The discovery of the plant in question is related in the _Flora +Lapponica_ in so interesting a manner, that we cannot refrain from +translating the passage. See the second edition, p. 135. + +"I met with this plant but once, and that throughout a journey of four +hours, over the celebrated mountain of Wallivari in the district of +Lulea, towards a tract of country which lies about half way between the +northern and western part, where it grew in great abundance. + +"Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse perspiration, facing +the cold wind, at midnight; if I may call it night when the sun was +shining without setting at all; still anxiously inquiring of my +interpreter how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which I had for two +hours been expecting, though I knew not its precise situation; casting +my eager eyes around me in all directions, I perceived as it were the +shadow of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking it for the +_Empetrum_. But after going a few steps further, an idea of its being +something I was unacquainted with came across my mind, and I turned +back; when I should again have taken it for the _Empetrum_, had not its +greater height caused me to consider it with more attention. I know not +what it is that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the night, as +to render objects far less distinct than in the middle of the day, +though the sun shines equally bright. The sun being near the horizon, +spreads its rays in such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely +protect our eyes: besides, the shadows of plants are so infinitely +extended, and so confounded with each other, from the tremulous +agitation caused by the blustering wind, that objects very different in +themselves are scarcely to be distinguished from each other. Having +gathered one of these plants, I looked about and found several more in +the neighbourhood, all on the north side, where they grew in plenty; but +I never met with the same in any other place afterwards. As at this time +they had lost their flowers, and were ripening seed, it was not till +after I had sought for a very long time that I met with a single flower, +which was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with five sharper +divisions." + +[2] This strange passage is presumed to allude to a little gun, four or +five inches long, still shown in the arsenal at Stockholm, with which +vulgar report says the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas. + +[3] It is not impossible that Linnæus might be misled here by the +prejudices of his time, or by those of the people from whom he obtained +his account. + +[4] The whole of this account of the hay consists, in the manuscript, of +such concise, disjointed, and obscure notes, that we are by no means +certain of having preserved the exact sense. + +[5] La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge, observes that "it +is attached by a single trace or thong, passing under the belly of the +reindeer, and fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's +neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to his horns, serves, +when pulled in a straight line, to stop his course, or, when drawn +toward either side, to turn him in that direction. When this cord is +made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on the back, it urges +him to greater speed. The overturn of the sledge, where the road is +uneven, is prevented by a stick, which serves, like the oar or paddle of +a boat, to guide its course." + +[6] Linnæus records this misfortune in his _Flora Lapponica_, at n. 42, +see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speaking of _Arundo Calamagrostis_, he says +he "presumes the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no +opportunity of comparing his plant with books and descriptions, having +lost the specimen, with various other natural productions, by being cast +away as he was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland." The +synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus by memory applied, proves +to be erroneous. + +[7] This account does not agree with the description in the _Flora +Lapponica_, but is the most correct. + +[8] This also is correct. + +[9] A few further remarks on the above subject, printed in the _Flora +Lapponica_, may be acceptable to the English reader. + +"This disease made no regular progress, nor was it communicated by +infection from one animal to another. The cows are driven all together +in the spring to feed in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on +the other side of a creek of the river, in which I was informed the +greatest mortality happened. The symptoms differ in different cases; but +all the cattle, feeding indiscriminately, are seized with a swelling of +the abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with horrid bellowing, +in the space of a few days. No person dares venture to flay the recent +carcases, it having been found by experience that not only the hands, +but even the face, in consequence of the warm steams from the body, +became inflamed and gangrenous, and that death finally ensued. + +"I was asked whether this disease was a kind of plague; whether the +meadow in question produced any venomous spiders; or whether the +yellow-coloured water was poisonous. + +"That it was no plague appeared from its not being contagious, and from +the spring being its most fatal season. I saw no spiders here, except +what are common throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow sediment of +the water any thing more than a common innocent ochre of iron. + +"I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was taken to this +meadow, than the _Cicuta_ presented itself before me, and explained the +cause of all this destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow where +the cattle are first seized with the distemper, especially near the +shore. The slightest observation teaches us that brute animals +distinguish, by natural instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, +from such as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not eat this Hemlock +in summer or autumn; whence few of them perish at those seasons, and +such only as devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an +inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned out in the spring, +partly from their eagerness for fresh herbage, partly from their long +fasting and starvation, they seize with avidity whatever comes within +their reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient to satisfy +them; probably also it is in general more succulent, immersed under +water, and scarcely perceptibly scented; so that they are unable to +distinguish the wholesome from the pernicious kinds. I remarked every +where that the radical leaves only were cropped, no others; which +confirmed what I have asserted. In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same +plant cut with the hay for winter food; so that it is no wonder if in +that state some, even of the more cautious cattle, are destroyed by it." +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 76. + +[10] This plant is not mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica_, and the +account annexed seems to belong to _Ligusticum scoticum_, n. 107 of that +work, with which it well agrees. + +[11] Linnæus in this description denominates these leaflets, whether of +the general or partial involucrum, _radii_, a term he always +subsequently used for the stalks of the umbels. + +[12] King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit to Tornea in 1694, was +accompanied by Count G. Douglas the Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper +Counsellor of Chancery, J. Hoghusen Counsellor of the Board of War, and +some other learned men, and in the night between the 13th and 14th of +June saw, from the belfry of the church, the midnight sun, at that time +visible there to a person placed on such an elevation. The year +following, Professors Bilberg and Spole were sent to Tornea to repeat +these observations. The royal visit to Tornea was commemorated by a +medal struck on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the king; +on the reverse, a representation of the sun half above the horizon, with +this motto, _Soli inocciduo Sol obvius alter_; and beneath, _Iter Regis +ad Botniam Occidentalem_, _Mense Junio_ 1694. + +[13] _Stegerhusen._ I have not been able to make out the precise meaning +of this word. + +[14] John Messenius, famous for his learning and his misfortunes, was +professor of law and politics at Upsal, in the reign of the great +Gustavus Adolphus, who had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all +his wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and hatred of some of +the colleagues of this able man, especially of John Rudbeck, a malignant +though learned theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify +Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius to Stockholm, and made +him a member of the new council established there. The latter was +formally accused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic king +Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual prison, where he composed a +great work entitled _Scandia illustrata_, published at Stockholm between +the years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son Arnold might be +justified for detesting those who had persecuted his illustrious father, +but not for the folly of expressing his feelings in satirical +publications against people in power. For this he paid with his life on +the scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, suffered with him. + +[15] In the Journal, vol. i. 101, Linnæus speaks of Mr. Oladron as the +curate of Lycksele, and his wife. + +[16] The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not agree with the +original journal, which therefore I have followed. See the first page of +this volume. + +[17] _Jacq. Ic. Rar. t. 154. Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1287._ + +[18] We know not what species the author intends by this name. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes + +Non-standard spellings have been retained as printed. These are listed +as suspect typographical errors as follows: + +page 59: suspect typo "skain" for "skein" ( ... being wrapped round the +hand like a skain of thread ...) + +page 73: suspect typo "basons" for "basins" (The fat part of the broth +is first served up in basons.) + +Changes to typographical errors in the text are as follows: + +page 182: changed "Servet-mjolk" to "Servet-mjölk". + +page 198 changed "close" to "closed" ( ... a trough, closed on all +sides, ...) + +Page 296 added "i." (parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. +242.) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + +***** This file should be named 36059-8.txt or 36059-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/5/36059/ + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lachesis Lapponica + A Tour in Lapland + +Author: Carl von Linné + +Editor: James Edward Smith + +Translator: Charles Troilius + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + + + + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<div class="trans-note"> +<h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> + +<p>Unusual or inconsistent spellings, hyphenation and punctuation are +retained as printed except where typographical errors have been +corrected: any corrections are listed <a href="#Transcribers_Notes">at the end of the book</a>.</p> + +<p>Hyperlink cross-references are provided to pages in this volume only.</p> + +<p>If the following Greek symbols do not appear (β, γ, λ, κ) in your browser then a Unicode font should be selected.</p> + +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> +<ul> +<li><a href="#JOURNEY_TO_LAPLAND"><b>JOURNEY TO LAPLAND.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#TORNEA"><b>Tornea.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#EAST_BOTHLAND"><b>East Bothland.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#OECONOMICAL_REMARKS"><b>Œconomical Remarks +concerning +the Neighbourhood of Tornea.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX N<sup>o</sup> I. A Brief Narrative of a Journey to Lapland.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#APPENDIX_II"><b>APPENDIX N<sup>o</sup> II.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#INDEX"><b>Index.</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#ERRATA"><b>Errata.</b></a></li> +</ul> +<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. --> +</div> + +<h1><i>Lachesis Lapponica,</i></h1> + +<p class="center">OR A</p> + +<h1>TOUR IN LAPLAND,</h1> + +<p class="center"> NOW FIRST PUBLISHED<br /> + <span class="smcap">from the</span><br /> + ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL<br /> + OF THE CELEBRATED</p> + +<p class="center"> <span style="font-size:x-large">LINNÆUS;</span></p> + +<p class="center"> <span class="smcap">by</span></p> + +<p class="center"> JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M.D. F.R.S. <span class="smcap">ETC.</span><br /> + PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY.</p> + +<p class="center"> IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /> + VOL. II.</p> + + +<p class="center"> "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."<br /> + <span class="smcap">Ovid.</span></p> + + +<p class="center"> <i>LONDON</i>:<br /> + PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,<br /> + FLEET-STREET,<br /> + BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE.</p> + +<p class="center"> 1811.</p> +<p><!-- Page 1 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2><a name="JOURNEY_TO_LAPLAND" id="JOURNEY_TO_LAPLAND"></a>JOURNEY<br /> +TO<br /> +LAPLAND.</h2> + + +<p>In the latter part of this day, <i>July 15th</i>, +I set out on my return from the low grounds +of Norway. The heat was very powerful +as we began to ascend the mountains. +When we reached what had seemed to us +from below the summit of a hill, we saw +just as lofty an eminence before us, and +this was the case nine or ten successive +times. I had no idea of such mountains +before. The elevation of this hill cannot +be taken by any geometrical instrument, +as the summit is not visible, even at some +miles distance. I believe its height must +exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb it was +<!-- Page 2 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>worse than going two miles any other way. +Had we not frequently met with such abundance +of water, we should have been overcome +with fatigue. In this ascent I found +the little <i>Astragalus</i> (<i>alpinus</i>) with a white +flower, and the Little Gentian (<i>Gentiana +nivalis</i>).</p> + +<p>Our clothes, which were wet quite +through with perspiration, in consequence +of the heat we had encountered in the beginning +of our journey, were now frozen +stiff upon our backs by the cold. We determined +to seek for a Laplander's hut. In +order to get at one, we were obliged to +descend so steep a hill, that, being unable +to walk down it, I lay down on my back +and slid along, with the rapidity of an arrow +from a bow. I avoided with difficulty +the large snow torrents that every now and +then came in my way, and which were +sometimes within an ell of me.</p> + +<p>On reaching this hut, I noticed some of +the reindeer whose horns were not above +half an inch long, the Brom-fly (<i>Oestrus +Tarandi</i>)<!-- Page 3 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> having bitten them while quite +tender; for these insects are, in the Norwegian +alps, worse than the gnats of Swedish Lapland.</p> + +<p>I here obtained a curious piece of information +respecting the mode of castrating the +reindeer. When the animal is two years and a +half old, its owner, about a fortnight before +Michaelmas, getting a person to assist him +by holding it fast by the horns, places himself +betwixt its hind legs. He then applies +his teeth to the <i>scrotum</i>, so as to bruise its +contents, but not so as to break the skin, +for in that case the reindeer would die. +He afterwards bruises the part still more +effectually between his fingers. The same +operation is performed on both sides, if the +reindeer remains quiet long enough for the +purpose at one time. The animal is in +consequence rather indisposed for a while, +so that he can hardly keep up with the rest +of the herd, but he usually recovers perfectly +in a week's time. This is certainly +an art, no less curious than remarkable, and +merits further consideration.<!-- Page 4 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> + +<p>The girls here, especially when they wish +to appear to advantage, divide their hair +into two braids, one above each ear, which +braids are tied together, at the hind part +of the head, so as to hang down the back. +A tuft of ribands is appended to the extremity +of each braid.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 16.</i></h4> + +<p>We undertook to cross the ice-mountain. +Having proceeded some way on our journey, +we observed a dense cloud to the north-east. +It was visible both above and below +us, and at length approached us in the form +of a thick mist, which moistened our clothes, +and rendered even our hair thoroughly wet. +It so completely obliterated our horizon, +that we could neither see sun nor moon, +nor the summits of the neighbouring hills. +We knew not whither to turn our steps, +fearing on the one hand to fall down a precipice +and lose our lives, as actually happened, +a few years ago, to a Laplander +under the same circumstances; or on the<!-- Page 5 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> +other to be plunged into the alpine torrent, +which had worn so deep a channel through +the snow, as to make any one giddy, +looking upon it from above. We could +now not distinguish any thing a couple of +ells before us. Our situation was like that +of an unskilful mariner at sea without a +compass, out of sight of land, and surrounded +by hidden rocks on every side. +The Laplanders themselves consider the +situation we were in as one of the worst +accidents that can ever befall them. We, +however, though destitute of a guide, were +fortunate enough to discover the track of a +reindeer, and of some kind of carriage in +which goods had probably been lately conveyed +towards Norway. This track directed +us safely to one of the Lapland +moveable tents.</p> + +<p>All the Laplanders are usually blear-eyed, +so that one would think the word +<i>Lappi</i> (Laplanders) was derived from <i>lippi</i> +(blear-eyed). The causes of this inconvenience +are various, but chiefly the following.<!-- Page 6 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> + +<p>1. The sharp winds. In the early part +of my journey, repeated exposure to stormy +weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I +became unable to open them wide, and was +obliged to keep them half shut. How +much more must this be the case with those +who dwell on the alps, where there is a +perpetual wind!</p> + +<p>2. The snow, the whiteness of which, +when the sun shone upon it, was very troublesome +to me. To this the alpine Laplanders +are continually exposed.</p> + +<p>3. The fogs. This day I found myself +very comfortable in my walk over the icy +mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud, +whichever it might be called, came about +me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as +well as my own, so weak and relaxed, that +we could not open them wide without an +effort. Such must often be the case with +the Laplanders.</p> + +<p>4. Smoke. How is it possible that these +people should not be blear-eyed, when they +are so continually shut up in their huts,<!-- Page 7 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +where the smoke has no outlet but by the +hole in the roof, and consequently fills every +body's eyes as it passes!</p> + +<p>5. The severity of the cold in this country +must also contribute to the same inconvenience.</p> + +<p>The mountain Laplanders, or those who +live in the alps, build no huts; they have +only tents made in the following manner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 226px;"> +<a href="images/i_007.jpg"><img src="images/i_007_tn.jpg" width="226" height="400" +alt="Part of the tent frame-work; linked to larger image." +title="Part of the tent frame-work; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The first figure represents two connected<!-- Page 8 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +beams, which compose the frame-work of +one side of the hut; and these meet at the<!-- Page 9 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +top with two similar ones, forming the opposite +side. A solitary beam is placed on +each side, in the middle of the arch formed +by these four, so that the whole edifice has +six angles. Two more slender sticks, but +equally tall, are then erected between every +two angles, or main ribs, of the building. +Over the whole is spread the covering of +the tent (made of walmal cloth). The +usual height of the structure is about a +fathom and half, and the breadth two fathoms. +A flap of cloth is left, so as to +open and shut by way of a door, between +two of the main beams.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_008.jpg"><img src="images/i_008_tn.jpg" width="400" height="207" +alt="Complete tent frame-work; linked to larger image." +title="Complete tent frame-work; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>When they lie down to rest, and are fearful +of being incommoded by heat, they fix +a hook through the middle of the coverlet, +which raises it perhaps an ell and a half +above them, and under this canopy they +repose.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_010.jpg"><img src="images/i_010_tn.jpg" width="400" height="83" +alt="Woman's belt with attachments; linked to larger image." +title="Woman's belt with attachments; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The women wear several things attached +to their belt, as a leather bag, <i>fig.</i> 1, containing +a spoon, as well as a pipe, <i>fig.</i> 3.<!-- Page 10 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Fig.</i> 2. A knife in a case.</p> + +<p>4. A thimble made of +leather, which goes round +the finger.</p> + +<p>5. A pin-cushion, with +a brass cover which pulls +down over it like a cap.</p> + +<p>6. Several large brass +rings.</p> + +<p>The belt itself is ornamented +with tin or silver +embroidery, and pearls.<!-- Page 11 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_011.jpg"><img src="images/i_011_tn.jpg" width="400" height="58" +alt="Man's bag; linked to larger image." +title="Man's bag; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The men wear, instead +of the above, a kind of bag, +hanging down exactly in +front. This is divided internally +into two pockets, +containing their tobacco-pipe, +tinder-box, tobacco, +and a spoon made of reindeer's +horn, of an oblong +flattish shape.</p> + +<p>The women often wear a +similar bag, but of a smaller +size.<!-- Page 12 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<p>When the reindeer are milked, as they +cast their coat during the whole course of +the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, +often covering the milk in +the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs +of the animal, and it is found necessary to +clean and soften them before the milking +is begun. This is generally done by dipping +the fingers into the milk which may +be in the pail already, and washing them +therewith. Whenever it happens that one +of the reindeer strays from its master's +herd to that of a neighbour, the person to +whom it comes milks it, without any offence +to the proper owner. Such an accident +often happens; for these animals love society, +and the more of them there are together, +the better they thrive and enjoy +themselves. They are marked at the ears, +like cows, that every person may know his +own.</p> + +<p>The furniture of these Laplanders consists +of kettles and pots, made sometimes +of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of<!-- Page 13 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +stone, on account of the weight. They +have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, +generally made of the hard knotty +excrescences of the birch. These are often +large enough to hold four or five cans, (of +three quarts each,) and formed so neatly, +that any one would believe them to be turned. +Into these they pour what is to be +served up at their meals. Plates they have +none, but in their stead boards, of an oblong +shape, are used for meat; which, previous +to its distribution among the guests, +is served up in round pails. Closely platted +baskets, or tubs, always circular, are +used to keep cheese in. There is moreover +an oblong barrel, for the purpose of holding +<i>jumomjolk</i> (<i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 273).</p> + +<p>Within the tent are spread on each side +skins of reindeer, with the hairy part uppermost, +on which the people either sit or lie +down, for the tent is not lofty enough to +allow any one to stand upright. In the +centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a +square enclosure of low stones about the<!-- Page 14 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind +the fire-place, is entirely occupied +either with brush-wood or branches of trees, +behind which, or, most commonly, before +it next the fire, the household furniture is +placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended +over the reindeer skins on each side, +upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and +before these, towards the entrance, hang +rennet-bags, filled with milk, preserved for +winter use.</p> + +<p>The annexed figure is a sort of plan of +the floor of one of these Lapland tents. +a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six +in number, three at the right hand, on entering +the tent, and as many at the left. +c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e +kettle, with its lid. f, behind the first reindeer +skin, is the place of the harness. g +a barrel or cask. h a store of skins and +hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer, +with its flat cover.<!-- Page 15 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_015.jpg"><img src="images/i_015_tn.jpg" width="400" height="362" +alt="Floor plan of a Lapland tent; linked to larger image." +title="Floor plan of a Lapland tent; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The following figure represents the roof +of the tent, as seen from below. a, a, are +the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. +b outlet for the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags +containing milk. d plat of hair from the +reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e +the flat cover of the milk-strainer; see i +in the former figure.<!-- Page 16 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 314px;"> +<a href="images/i_016.jpg"><img src="images/i_016_tn.jpg" width="314" height="400" +alt="Underside of the tent roof; linked to larger image." +title="Underside of the tent roof; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>Such was the dwelling, and I shall now +describe some of its inhabitants. I sat +myself down at the right hand of the entrance, +with my legs across. Opposite to +me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, +the other straight. Her dress came no +lower than her knees, but she had a belt +embroidered with silver. Her grey hair +hung straight down, and she had a wrinkled<!-- Page 17 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was +altogether of the Lapland cast. Her fingers +were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next +to her sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty +years of age, who, for the sake +of her large herds of reindeer, had already +been married ten years to this old hag. +When the Laplanders sit, they either cross +their legs under them, or one knee is bent, +the other straight.</p> + +<p>As a defence against wind and snow, a +sort of hood, called <i>nialmiphata</i>, is worn +over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of +the shape of a truncated cone, dilated at +the bottom, and is four palms high, three +palms in circumference at the upper part, +and six at the bottom. This covers the +cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, +the eyes and mouth only being exposed. +In the back part, at bottom, is a loop, +through which goes a riband to secure the +whole from being blown off, by being tied +round the body under the arms.</p> + +<p>In winter-time the women wear breeches, +made exactly like those worn by the men,<!-- Page 18 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +as well as boots, though the latter come no +higher than the knees. It is wonderful +how they are able, in the severity of winter, +to follow the reindeer, which are never at +rest, but keep feeding by night as well as +by day. They have indeed small sheds or +huts, here and there, into which they occasionally +drive their reindeer, but with the +greatest difficulty.</p> + +<p>During the night we passed over the +beautiful lake of <i>Wirisiar</i>. The weather +was very cold and foggy.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 17.</i></h4> + +<p>In the morning we arrived at the abode +of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff, where I +could not but admire the fairness of the +bodies of these dark-faced people, which +rivalled that of any lady whatever.</p> + +<p>Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in +Lapland <i>Lummick</i>. The body of these +animals is grey; face and shoulders black; +the loins blackish; tail, as well as ears, +very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss +(<i>Lichen rangiferinus</i>), and are<!-- Page 19 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +not eatable. They live, for the most part, +in the alps; but in some years thousands +of them come down into the woodland +countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, +and marshes, by which great numbers +perish. They are by no means timid, but +look out, from their holes, at passengers, +like a dog. They bring forth five or six at +a birth. Their burrows are about half a +quarter (of an ell?) deep.</p> + +<p>Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, +with a hyacinthine flower in five +notched segments (<i>Gentiana nivalis</i>).</p> + + +<h4><i>July 18.</i></h4> + +<p>I gathered and examined the little +Catchfly, which resembles the common one +(<i>Lychnis Viscaria</i>) except in being smaller, +and not at all viscid. (<i>L. alpina</i>; see +<i>v.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 302. <i>n.</i> 46.) The root is perennial. +Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to +linear. Stem simple, round, smooth, bearing +two, three, or four pairs of opposite +leaves. From the uppermost pair springs<!-- Page 20 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a +single flower, between two small opposite +purple leaves. A little higher up, two other +simple flower-stalks come forth in the same +manner, with two coloured leaves at their +base, the stem being thus extended straight +upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, +with five teeth. Petals five, their disk +cloven half way down; the crown with two +teeth. Stamens 10. Pistils 5.</p> + +<p>After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; +but the water we met with proved less pleasant +than usual, having an earthy taste, +although it flowed from plentiful stores of +ice and snow. My Laplander took his +knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he +sucked by way of refreshment. I found +this mode of drinking agreeable enough, +the ice being very palatable, and we both +partook of it largely. He told me it was +considered very wholesome for the chest. +Indeed I learned, both from the Laplanders +and my own experience, that pure water, +however cold, is never hurtful, provided +it be taken in moderation.<!-- Page 21 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> + +<p>I was desirous of having my linen washed; +but the people understood my request +as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a +single article of their own apparel being +made of linen. As their food is of animal +origin, so is their clothing, which consists +either of skins, the produce of the country, +or of the woollen cloth called <i>walmal</i>, +which they purchase. In the winter they +wear Lapland boots, which come up as +high as the middle of the thighs, without +any stockings, only the feet are protected +with what they term <i>Skogras</i> (<i>Carex sylvatica</i> +Fl. Brit.), as already mentioned. +Next to the body they wear a jacket of +<i>walmal</i>, and above that a <i>lappmudd</i>, or +coat of reindeer skin, with the hairy side +turned inwards. In summer they turn +that side outwards. The boots used by +the women do not reach higher than the +knee.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 19.</i></h4> + +<p>I remarked with astonishment how great<!-- Page 22 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>ly +the reindeer are incommoded in hot weather, +insomuch that they cannot stand still +a minute, no not a moment, without changing +their posture, starting, puffing and +blowing continually, and all on account of a +little fly. Even though amongst a herd of +perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not +above ten of these flies, every one of the +herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour +about. The fly meanwhile was trying +every means to get at them; but it no +sooner touched any part of their bodies, +than they made an immediate effort to +shake it off. In one respect this season is +peculiarly propitious to the insect, as the +reindeer's coat is now very thin, most of the +hair of last year's growth being fallen off. +I caught one of these insects as it was flying +along with its tail protruded, which had +at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly +white. The tail itself consisted of +four or five tubular joints, slipping into +each other, like a pocket spying-glass, which +this fly, like others, has a power of contract<!-- Page 23 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>ing +at pleasure. See what I have already +mentioned (<i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 280), concerning the +spots in the reindeer skins, as caused by +this insect (<i>Oestrus Tarandi</i>).</p> + +<p>When the Lapland children are laid into +the cradle, they seldom cry, although their +hands are confined down to their sides. +If they cry, it is generally from hunger. +The cradle is placed in a sloping position, +so that the child's head is half upright. +The bottom of the cradle is hollowed out +of a piece of fir wood, consequently not +very heavy. Over the head of the child is +a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse +bow is fixed, the whole being covered +with cloth, like the rest of the cradle. In +summer the child lies without any covering +of reindeer hair, only having under its head +and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or +moss.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders use a curious kind of +box or basket, which they call <i>kisa</i>, for +keeping or carrying various articles. It is +of an oval form, with the bottom and sides<!-- Page 24 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +made of fir, like a box, being about a foot +and half long, a foot broad, and six inches +deep, with a transverse opening in the bottom +to admit a part of the saddle of the +reindeer. The contents are confined by a +lacing of cords, that goes from side to side +across the top, which is otherwise open. +Two such boxes, each weighing about two +pounds, are placed like panniers upon the +reindeer; for that animal cannot carry +above four or five pounds weight, and the +castrated males only are used as beasts of +burthen at all. A leather thong crosses +the saddle, connected with another longer +one, which goes round the chest of the +animal at one part, and round its thighs, +like the breechings of a horse, at the other. +A pack-saddle, made either of reindeer +skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of +spruce fir, goes across the back, and is connected +with the leather thongs just mentioned, +being further secured by a girth +under the belly. Against the sides of this +pack-saddle the above-described boxes or<!-- Page 25 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +baskets are hung and fastened, the transverse +chink in the bottom of each being +fitted to the saddle.</p> + +<p>I observed that the Laplanders, both +men and women, after borrowing a lighted +pipe, and passing it from one to another, +retain a mouthful of smoke as long as +possible, that they may enjoy as much of +the flavour as they can. Old men chew +tobacco.</p> + +<p>The tendons in the legs of the reindeer +serve to make thread or cord. In each hind +leg are two tendons, one before the other; +in each fore leg one behind and two or +three before it. These the Laplanders lay +hold of with their mouths, split and moisten +them, rubbing them from time to time with +reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for +that use, in order to render them as supple +as possible. Each string is made sharp +at both ends, and drawn through holes of +various sizes in an instrument made on purpose +(of wood or metal) to render it as fine +and smooth as they can. Two such threads<!-- Page 26 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +are then twisted together by means of the +hand upon the thigh or knee. They are +generally held with the left hand, and twisted +with the right upon the left knee, +proceeding downwards, the thread being +moistened from time to time with saliva.</p> + +<p>In this part of the country the <i>Empetrum</i> +(Crow- or Crake-berry) serves for firing. +Otherwise the most common fuel is the +dwarf Birch (<i>Betula nana</i>), and the Willow +with lanceolate white hairy leaves (<i>Salix +lapponum</i>), so very abundant on the Lapland +alps. The dwarf birch bears very +small leaves in these elevated regions.</p> + +<p>When the children are taken out of the +cradle, which I have already described +(<i>vol.</i> 2. <i>p.</i> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>), they are dressed in a small +garment of reindeer skin. They are usually +able to stand on their legs by the time they +are four months old, and turn their head +and eyes about with a degree of intelligence +hardly ever seen in our children at that +early age.</p> + +<p>I never met with any people who lead<!-- Page 27 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +such easy happy lives as the Laplanders. +In summer they make two meals of milk +in the course of the day, and when they +have gone through their allotted task of +milking their reindeer, or making cheese, +they resign themselves to indolent tranquillity, +not knowing what to do next. In winter +their food is cheese, taken once or twice a +day, but in the evening they eat meat. A +single reindeer supplies four persons with +food for a week.</p> + +<p>This animal has no gall-bladder, nor +could I discover the insertion of the biliary +duct. The liver however is of a large size. +The first stomach is large, with a thick orifice, +and lined with a fine cellular network +like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally +plaited. The Laplanders are curious +dissectors. They take out each of +the stomachs separately, with as much care +as a professed anatomist.</p> + +<p>The thread made of sinews, as above +described, is never used for sewing <i>walmal</i>, +which makes their summer clothing, but +only for garments composed of fur or lea<!-- Page 28 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>ther. +Their shoes indeed are mended, as +well as made, with it. This last business +falls to the lot of the women. The leather +is purchased.</p> + +<p>A good ox may be bought in Norway +for three rix-dollars; a female reindeer for +one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from +twelve to eighteen dollars, silver coin; and +a fawn is worth from twelve to eighteen +dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, +therefore, are but equal to the value of a +common ox.</p> + +<p>I left this place in the evening, proceeding +on my journey on foot, and walking all +night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon +of the following day. Thus I walked +six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at +another Lapland hut.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;"> +<img src="images/i_029.jpg" width="216" height="300" +alt="Sketch of Andromeda (tetragona)." title="Sketch of Andromeda (tetragona)." /> +</div> + +<p>Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing +by the way, except an <i>Andromeda</i> +(<i>tetragona</i>) with quadrangular shoots, and<!-- Page 29 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +flowers from the bosoms of the leaves. The +stem is woody, procumbent, naked, thread-shaped, +variously divided. Branches partly +erect, entirely covered with leaves, which +are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded, +concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an +imbricated manner. Flower-stalks solitary, +from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, thread-shaped, +whitish, each bearing a drooping +flower. Calyx five-cleft, purplish, with +ovate straight segments. Petal one, half-ovate +or bellshaped, exactly resembling the +lily of the valley, cut half way down into +five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, +very short, with horned anthers, scarcely +longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the +length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, +with five obtuse angles, erect, of five cells, +with several seeds<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>.</p> +<p><!-- Page 30 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<h4><i>July 20.</i></h4> + +<p>The people here use a kind of bread +called <i>Blodbrod</i> (Blood Bread), made of +small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a +little quantity of flour. This is baked or +roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is +used only in hard times.<!-- Page 31 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> + +<p>There are no common flies, bugs, nor +snakes, on these Alps.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders however abound with +lice, which in winter are allowed to freeze, +when they turn red, and are easily killed. +In summer they come forth from the clothes, +if exposed to the sun, and are then de<!-- Page 32 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>stroyed +with the nails, these people having +no firelock to shoot them with<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>.</p> + +<p>I was informed that in this neighbourhood +the inoculated small-pox is remarkably +fatal. If the patients have but seventy +or eighty pustules, they die of it as of the +plague. They fly to the mountains, when +infected, and die. The same is the case +with the measles. It appears that both +these diseases are aggravated by the violent +cold, whence the patients die in so +miserable a manner<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>.</p> + +<p>Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent.</p> + +<p>Sore eyes are universal, especially in the +spring, when the Laplanders remove towards +the Alps. The glittering of the +snow has then a pernicious effect on their +eyes. Aged people are very often blind.<!-- Page 33 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p> + +<p>Female obstructions are rare, though +sometimes met with among the better sort +of people; neither are the <i>catamenia</i> immoderate, +nor in common so copious as +with us. The Lapland women are entirely +ignorant of the <i>leucorrhœa</i>.</p> + +<p>Of hysterics I met with but two cases. +One maid-servant, twenty-four years of age, +had the complaint about once a year; +another, about thirty, was attacked with +it monthly during the summer.</p> + +<p>Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs +are frequent; hence the forehead is often +seen full of scars (from the application of +their <i>toule</i>, or <i>moxa</i>; see <i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 274).</p> + +<p>Elderly people are often hard of hearing.</p> + +<p>The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly +sound, and they are in the habit of sleeping +or waking whenever they please.</p> + +<p>A swelling, or falling down, of the <i>uvula</i> +is not uncommon, in which case they frequently +cut off the part affected.</p> + +<p>When children are troubled with swellings +in the glands about the throat, the<!-- Page 34 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck +out the blood, which is considered as a +speedy and effectual cure. If this method +be not adopted, they suppose the blood +would rise to the head, and cause cutaneous +eruptions there.</p> + +<p>Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding +the constant practice of drinking +snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing +pure grease or fat, which perhaps may +prevent its bad consequences. However +this may be, the Laplanders seldom die +from catching cold. Cases of <i>phthisis</i>, or +consumption, do indeed now and then occur +among them, and pleurisies are very +common, especially in spring and autumn. +Lumbago, or pain in the back, is most prevalent +during the summer. For this, as I +have already mentioned, <i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 274, +actual cautery, by means of their <i>toule</i>, or +<i>moxa</i>, is often applied.</p> + +<p>Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens +among those Lapland women who are in +the service of the colonists, and who, in<!-- Page 35 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +consequence of certain obstructions, are +subject also to œdematous swellings of the +feet.</p> + +<p>I have not heard of a single instance of +jaundice.</p> + +<p>Some elderly people are afflicted with +asthma; and hoarsenesses now and then +occur in the winter and spring.</p> + +<p>The stone and gout are entirely unknown +amongst the Laplanders.</p> + +<p>Swellings of the lower extremities are +uncommon, as these people are in the habit +of swathing their legs, which renders them +all slender and well shaped. All dropsical +complaints indeed are very rare, though I +did meet with one case of this kind.</p> + +<p>Of <i>tenesmus</i> I happened to hear of but +a single instance, though the Laplanders +eat so much cheese and drink water.</p> + +<p>Disorders in the stomach are not uncommon, +which are frequently attended +with <i>diarrhœa</i>, and in some years this disease +is contagious.</p> + +<p>The specimens of minerals which I had<!-- Page 36 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +collected in the course of my tour were +now become numerous, and consisted of +the following articles.</p> + +<p>1. An alum, as I presume, of a club +shape, without any taste, seeming as it +were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains +to the north of the lake Skalk, near Kiomitis. +(See <i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 267.)</p> + +<p>2. Native alum in its own matrix; from +the same place. (<i>Alumen nativum.</i> <i>Syst. +Nat.</i> <i>vol.</i> 3. 101).</p> + +<p>3. Native alum, rough and green, separate +from its matrix; from the same mountains.</p> + +<p>4. Alum like the former in appearance, +but not salt, perhaps a calcareous stone; +found not far from the same place.</p> + +<p>5. Various alpine micaceous stones.</p> + +<p>6. Marle from Lapland.</p> + +<p>7. Quartz from Lapland.</p> + +<p>8. Silver ore from Kiurivari.</p> + +<p>9. Silver ore from Nasaphiel in Pithœan +Lapland.</p> + +<p>10. Sandstone containing three per cent. +of iron.<!-- Page 37 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<p>11. Black slate from the alps.</p> + +<p>12. Petrified corals from Norway.</p> + +<p>13. Iridescent fluors from the alps.</p> + +<p>The fish called by the Laplanders <i>Sijk</i> +(the Gwiniad, or <i>Salmo Lavaretus</i>,) is +taken in their lakes. Its head terminates +in an obtuse point. The upper jaw is the +longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of +the eye silvery, with a blackish upper +edge, and a black pupil. The whole body +is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven +inches long and two deep. Head two inches +long at the sides; from the snout to the +dorsal fin four inches and a half. The dorsal +fin consists of thirteen rays, of which the +first is by far the largest, and the last +cloven or interrupted. The soft fat fin is +in its proper place.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 21.</i></h4> + +<p>The following are the disorders or inconveniences +to which the reindeer are subject.</p> + +<p>When the frost is so intense as to form an +impenetrable crust on the surface of the<!-- Page 38 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +snow, so that the animal cannot break it +with his feet, to get at the Lichen on which +he feeds, he is frequently starved to death. +This misfortune is as dreadful to the Laplanders +as any public or national calamity +elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed, +he must himself either starve to death, beg +for his livelihood, or turn thief.</p> + +<p>The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncommonly +affected with a swelling at the edge +where they are attached to the skin, at +which part they consequently become ulcerated, +and are seldom healed. The creature +thus grows lame, and cannot keep up +with the herd.</p> + +<p>These animals are sometimes attacked +with a <i>vertigo</i>, or giddiness in the head, +which causes them to run round and round +continually. The people assured me, that +such of them as run according to the course +of the sun may be expected to get the +better of the disorder; but those which +turn the contrary way, being supposed incurable, +are immediately killed. The reco<!-- Page 39 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>very +of the former is thought to be promoted +by cutting their ears, so as to cause +a great discharge of blood.</p> + +<p>The <i>Kurbma</i>, or ulceration caused by +the Gad-fly, (see <i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 280.) takes place +every spring, especially in the younger +fawns. Such as are brought forth in the +summer season are free from this misfortune +the ensuing spring, but in the following +one many of them lose their lives by it. +When come to their full size and strength, +the consequences are less fatal; but no reindeer +is entirely exempt from the attacks of +this pernicious insect.</p> + +<p>The fawns are of a reddish hue the first +season, during which they cut their foreteeth. +In the autumn they turn blackish, +and have fodder given them. They are +when young frequently afflicted with a +soreness in the mouth, so as to be unable +for a while to eat.</p> + +<p>Reindeer are subject to a disease called +by the Laplanders <i>Pekke Kattiata</i>, accompanied +with ulcerations of the flesh, which<!-- Page 40 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +however often heal by a sloughing of the +part affected. This is an epidemic disorder. +It is believed that if any of the +ulcerous part, which is cast off, be swallowed +by the animal, in licking his own +coat, or that of any other of the herd labouring +under this malady, it proves fatal +by corroding the viscera.</p> + +<p>The dugs of the female often become +chapped or sore, so as to bleed whenever +they are milked.</p> + +<p>The male reindeer in his natural state is +fatter than such as are castrated, except +the latter be kept without work, in which +case they become the fattest. Such as are +castrated and allowed to run wild, become +considerably larger, as well as tamer, in +consequence.</p> + +<p>The rutting season lasts but a fortnight, +that is, from about a week preceding the +feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Michaelmas +day, during which period the +male is savage and dangerous. Immediately +afterwards he casts his coat and horns,<!-- Page 41 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +and not unfrequently becomes so emaciated, +that, in many instances, death is +the consequence.</p> + +<p>Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.) +in the following year, or within a fortnight +of that period, very rarely later, the females +bring forth their young. They do not copulate +the first year, and seldom before +the third, their progeny being found the +better for this delay. Indeed neither the +males nor females arrive at their full growth +and perfection before they are towards three +years old.</p> + +<p>The fawn, whether male or female, is +called the first year <i>mesk</i>; the second season +the male is called <i>orryck</i>, and the female +<i>whenial</i>. In the third year the latter, if she +has been covered, is known by the appellation +of <i>watja</i> or <i>waja</i>, which means a +wife; if otherwise, she goes by the name of +<i>whenial-rotha</i>, the three-year old male being +called <i>wubbers</i>. In his fourth year the +male is termed <i>koddutis</i>; in the following +one <i>kosittis</i>; in the sixth <i>machanis</i>, and in<!-- Page 42 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +the seventh <i>namma lappotachis</i>. After that +period no male is kept, they all perishing in +consequence of the exhaustion above mentioned, +but the castrated ones live to a more +advanced age. None of these animals +however survive beyond their twelfth or +fourteenth year. When the castrated males +become very fat towards autumn, and show +signs of old age; or the females, having +become barren, appear otherwise to be on +the decline, they are killed, by the knife, +in the close of the year; from an apprehension +that they might otherwise perish +of themselves from infirmity, in the course +of another season.</p> + +<p>Such of the male reindeer as are destined +to serve for a stock of provision, are killed +before the rutting-time, and their carcases +hung up to be exposed to the air and frost +before flaying. The flesh is smoked and a +little salted, and then laid upon sledges to +dry in the sun, that it may keep through +the winter till spring. About the feast of +St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin<!-- Page 43 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +to be so incommoded with the gad-fly, that +they are not in a fit condition to be slain +for eating. From that period therefore, +till the milking season, the Laplanders are +obliged to live on this stock of preserved +meat. At other times of the year the females +are killed for immediate use, according +as they are wanted. The blood is kept +fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves +for food in the spring, being added to the +<i>välling</i> (see <i>vol.</i> 1. <i>p.</i> 129), with a small +proportion of milk and water. The blood +of these animals is thick in consistence, like +that of a hog. The Laplanders carry a +portion of it along with them from place to +place, in bladders or some kind of vessels. +A stock of this and all other necessaries is +collected as late as possible, before the +melting of the snow, while there still remains +a track for the sledges.</p> + +<p>A kind of blood pudding or sausage is +made, in general without flour, and with +a large proportion of fat. This the Laplanders +call <i>marfi</i>.<!-- Page 44 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + +<p>The liver of the reindeer, which is of a +considerable bulk, is boiled and eaten fresh. +The lungs, being salted and moderately +dried, are eaten occasionally, or else given +to the dogs. The intestines, which abound +with fat, are cut open, washed, and boiled +fresh; nor are they unpalatable. The brain +and testicles are never eaten. The foot is +flayed down to the fetlock joint, beyond +which the hair cannot, by scalding or any +other contrivance, be separated, without +the cuticle and skin coming along with it. +Even when the feet are boiled, the hair never +comes off without the skin. Thus the +animal when living is the more firmly protected +against the snow. The hoofs are +thrown away as useless.</p> + +<p>The dung of the reindeer in summer is +almost as large as cow-dung, but in winter +it more resembles that of the goat.</p> + +<p>Each individual reindeer does not bear +horns of precisely the same shape every +year. The points are very liable to be deformed, +in consequence of the animal's<!-- Page 45 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +scratching them, while in a growing state, +with its feet; they being in that state much +inclined to itch, and as tender as the flesh +of a fresh fish.</p> + +<p>These animals are afflicted with maggots +called <i>kornmatskar</i> in their noses and +gums, from which they relieve themselves +in the spring by snorting and blowing. +When the insects lodge on their backs and +form pustules there, the people make a +practice of squeezing them out, to prevent +the reindeer from being too much irritated +by them. (This species is the <i>Oestrus +nasalis</i>, though the account here given is +not very clear; but in the first edition only +of the <i>Fauna Suecica</i> Linnæus says, on +the authority of a gentleman named Friedenreich, +that "this <i>Oestrus</i> lodges its +eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in +Lapland, and is frequently cast out by +them as they travel along in the spring.")</p> + +<p>When the skin is stripped from the +carcase of the reindeer, it is immediately +spread out, and stretched as much as pos<!-- Page 46 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>sible, +by means of a longitudinal pole, and +a transverse stick at each end of the skin, +these sticks being pulled asunder with a +strong cord. Several more transverse twigs +are placed between these two sticks, so as +to extend every part of the edges of the +hide, which in this position is allowed to +dry.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin +taken from the legs of the animal; their +hairy shoes, of that from its forehead between +the horns, such being worth two +dollars, copper money; while those made +from the skin of the legs, being much +thinner, are of very little or no value.</p> + +<p>A Laplander never goes barefoot, though +he has nothing to serve him for stockings +but hay (<i>Carex sylvatica</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i>). Sometimes +he buys leather for shoes or boots +from his neighbours.</p> + +<p>The people of this country boil their +meat in water only, without any addition +or seasoning, and drink the broth. <i>Jumomjölk</i> +(see <i>vol.</i> 1. 278.) kept for a whole<!-- Page 47 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +year is delicate eating. Berries of all kinds +are boiled in it. Some persons make a +practice of boiling those berries by themselves, +preserving them afterwards in small +tubs, or other wooden vessels. They boil +their fish more thoroughly than their meat, +over a slow fire, drinking likewise the water +in which it has been drest. The meat is +never so much boiled as to separate from +the bone. Fresh fish is sometimes roasted +over the fire. Few people dry and salt it, +though that method is sometimes practised. +Meat is dried by the air, sun and +smoke all together, being hung up in the +chimney, or rather hole by which the +smoke escapes through the roof.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders never eat of more than +one dish at a meal.</p> + +<p>By way of dainty, the women occasionally +mix the berries of the Dwarf Cornel +(<i>Cornus suecica</i>) with <i>Kappi</i> (see <i>vol.</i> i. +<i>p.</i> 281.), which is made of whey boiled till +it grows as thick as flummery. To this they<!-- Page 48 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +moreover add some cream. That fruit +is entirely neglected in the country of +Medelpad.</p> + +<p>In Dalecarlia the people generally keep +their cattle up in the mountains, twelve or +sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on +account of gad-flies and other stinging insects. +There they have their dairies, and +make cheese. The remaining whey is +boiled till two thirds are wasted, when it +becomes as thick as flummery. This is +sometimes eaten instead of butter, sometimes +mixed with dough, or serves for food +in various other manners.</p> + +<p>The wind is excessively powerful in this +alpine region, so that sometimes it is impossible +to stand against it, both men and +sledges being overturned by its violence.</p> + +<p>It blew so hard at the place where I +now was, that one of the windows of the +curate's house was blown in upon the floor.</p> + +<p>Every Laplander constantly carries a +sort of pole or stick, tipped with a ferule,<!-- Page 49 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +and furnished with a transverse bit of +wood. Whenever he is tired, he leans his +arms and nose against it to rest himself.</p> + +<p>Such as live in the forests are dexterous +marksmen, but not those who inhabit the +alps. Nevertheless, they all contrive, by +means of their wooden bows, to procure, +in the course of the winter, a considerable +number of Squirrels (<i>Sciurus vulgaris</i>) in +their grey or winter clothing, for the sake +of their skins.</p> + +<p>In the winter season also they go in pursuit +of their most cruel enemies the wolves. +One of these animals will sometimes kill +twenty or thirty reindeer at a time, if +he comes into the enclosure where they are. +The wolf often runs away before the Laplander +can get near enough to fire at him. +A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, except +by coming upon it unawares, the +latter being much the most swift of foot; +but if he gets into any of the store-houses, +he does a great deal of mischief, turning +every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also<!-- Page 50 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +very dangerous in the fissures of rocks +and mountains, where they usually conceal +themselves.</p> + +<p>The Glutton (<i>Mustela Gulo</i>) does most +harm in the pantry or store-house. He +never meddles with the reindeer.</p> + +<p>A part of the employment of the men +is to make sledges, or other machines of +wood for carriage. They cut rough wood +in the forests for the boxes which they +carry with them into the alps.</p> + +<p>The duty of the women is to mend +the clothes of the whole family.</p> + +<p>Laplanders have several plays or amusements.</p> + +<p>Children make of the dwarf birch (<i>Betula +nana</i>) something like reindeer's horns, +with which they gore one another in sport. +They amuse themselves frequently by +building little huts of stone.</p> + +<p>Grown-up people play very well at tennis, +but they seldom partake of that diversion. +More common amusements are +blindman's buff, and drawing gloves.<!-- Page 51 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<p>Here I think it worth while to observe, +that the alpine Laplanders are more honest, +as well as more good-natured, than those +who dwell in the woodlands. Having +acquired more polish from their occasional +intercourse with the inhabitants of towns, +the latter have, at the same time, learned +more cunning and deceit, and are frequently +very knavish. The inhabitants of the alps +dwell in villages formed of their tents, +living together, as I have already related, +in great comfort and harmony. Those +who occupy the woody parts of the country +live dispersed.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders know no musical instrument +except the <i>lur</i> (a sort of trumpet), +and pipes made of the bark of the quicken +tree or mountain ash. They are not accustomed +to sing at church, except those +who are reckoned among the great or +learned of the community.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of this country are +not more troubled with chilblains than +those of other places. They do not mind<!-- Page 52 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +having their cheeks frost-bitten. The women +wear an embroidered band round +the head, which affords no protection in +this respect; but the men have a loose +band of skin with the hair on, which can +be pulled down occasionally over their cap, +when the cold is intolerable.</p> + +<p>(But to proceed with a further account +of the diversions of the people I am describing).</p> + +<p><i>Spetto</i>, one of their games, is played, by +men as well as women, in the following +manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty +or sixty pieces of wood, a hand's breadth in +length, which are spread upon the extended +skin of a reindeer. One of the +players takes a ball made of stone or +marble, larger than a boy's playing marble, +which he throws up into the air about an +ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches +away one of the sticks, but in such a +manner as not to miss catching the ball +in its fall, holding the stick in the same +hand. He subsequently gathers together,<!-- Page 53 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +in his other hand, as many of the sticks +as he has thus been able to procure. If +he fails in any respect, another person is +to take the ball, and proceed in the same +manner, the former player resigning up +to him one of the sticks every time the +ball is thrown, till no more remain in his +own possession. He who can take up all +the sticks wins the game.</p> + +<p>The following rules are to be observed.</p> + +<p>1. He who catches the ball, but not +one of the sticks, must resign the ball to +another player, as well as he who has +let it fall.</p> + +<p>2. He who takes up more than one +stick at a time, must return what he has +taken.</p> + +<p>3. The adversary, that is, the last +player, who could not succeed in taking +up all the sticks, is allowed to lay down +as many as he pleases of the sticks he has +collected, and may arrange them according +to his fancy. It is usual to lay one upon +another, in order to render the game +more difficult, the player being obliged to<!-- Page 54 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +snatch up each separately; which is not +easy without taking two, when so situated, +at once.</p> + +<p>4. When at length one person has taken +up all the sticks, his adversary is permitted +to replace the two last of them upon the +skin in any manner he chooses. He commonly +separates them as widely as possible. +The person who had previously gained the +whole, is then required to take up both +these sticks at one throw of the ball, and +if he fails he must give up the game. +Thus the victory is often lost by means of +these two last sticks.</p> + +<p>5. When the adversary fails of his aim, +the other player is to take all the sticks +lying on the field, as well as those which, +after having been laid down by himself, +were won by the other person, and the +whole are to be laid down again directly, +in order to be taken up according to the +above rules. But he is no longer under +any obligation himself to take up the +sticks which he has thus laid for his companion.<!-- Page 55 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> + +<p>The game called <i>Tablut</i> is played with +a checkered board, and twenty-five pieces, +or men, in the following manner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_055.jpg"><img src="images/i_055_tn.jpg" width="400" height="398" +alt="Tablut game board; linked to larger image." +title="Tablut game board; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 56 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i_056.jpg" width="300" height="263" +alt="Pieces used in the game Tablut." +title="Pieces used in the game Tablut." /> +</div> + +<p>Fig. 1, is the king, whose station is in +the central square or royal castle, called +<i>konokis</i> by the Laplanders, to which no +other person can be admitted.</p> + +<p>Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes +his subjects, who, at the commencement +of the game, are stationed in the eight +squares, adjoining to the royal castle, +marked 2 and 3.</p> + +<p>Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites, +their adversaries, who occupy the sixteen +embroidered squares, (some of them marked +4 in the cut,) situated four together in +the middle of each side of the field.</p> + +<p>The vacant squares, distinguished by +letters, may be occupied by any of the +pieces in the course of the game.</p> + + +<h4><span class="smcap">LAWS.</span></h4> + +<p>1. Any piece may move from one square +to another in a right line, as from <i>a</i> to <i>c</i>; +but not corner-wise, or from <i>a</i> to <i>e</i>.</p> + +<p>2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads<!-- Page 57 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +of any other pieces that may be in the +way, or to move, for instance, from <i>b</i> to +<i>m</i>, in case any were stationed at <i>e</i> or <i>i</i>.</p> + +<p>3. If the king should stand in <i>b</i>, and +no other piece in <i>e</i>, <i>i</i>, or <i>m</i>, he may escape +by that road, unless one of the Muscovites +immediately gets possession of one of the +squares in question, so as to interrupt him.</p> + +<p>4. If the king be able to accomplish +this, the contest is at an end.</p> + +<p>5. If the king happens to be in <i>e</i>, and none +of his own people or his enemies either in +<i>f</i> or <i>g</i>, <i>i</i> or <i>m</i>, his exit cannot be prevented.</p> + +<p>6. Whenever the person who moves the +king perceives that a passage is free, he +must call out <i>raichi</i>, and if there be two +ways open, <i>tuichu</i>.</p> + +<p>7. It is allowable to move ever so far +at once, in a right line, if the squares in +the way be vacant, as from <i>c</i> to <i>n</i>.</p> + +<p>8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take +it by turns to move.</p> + +<p>9. If any one man gets between two +squares occupied by his enemies, he is +killed and taken off, except the king, who +is not liable to this misfortune.<!-- Page 58 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> + +<p>10. If the king, being in his own square +or castle, is encompassed on three sides +by his enemies, one of them standing in +each of three of the squares numbered 2, he +may move away by the fourth. If one +of his own people happens to be in this +fourth square, and one of his enemies in +number 3 next to it, the soldier thus enclosed +between his king and the enemy is killed. +If four of the enemy gain possession of the +four squares marked 2, thus enclosing the +king, he becomes their prisoner.</p> + +<p>11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy +in each of the adjoining squares, <i>a</i>, <i>A</i> and +3, he is likewise taken.</p> + +<p>12. Whenever the king is thus taken or +imprisoned, the war is over, and the +conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the conquered +party resigning all the Muscovites +that he had taken.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The Laplanders use the middle bark of +the elm for dressing their reindeer skins, +but merely by chewing it, and rubbing +their saliva on the skins.</p> + +<p>They also tan with birch bark, but do +not suffer the skins to remain long under<!-- Page 59 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +the operation, which they say would render +them rotten and apt to rend, neither can +they spare them very long.</p> + +<p>White <i>walmal</i> cloth is procured from +Russia, but for want thereof they commonly +wear a light grey cloth of the same kind.</p> + +<p>Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir +in the following manner. Choosing the +most slender roots, they scrape off the +bark, while fresh, with the back of a knife, +holding the roots against the thigh. Afterwards +each root is first split with the knife +into three or four parts, which are then by +degrees separated into a number of very +slender fibres; and these, being wrapped +round the hand like a skain of thread, +are tied together. They are then boiled +in a kettle for an hour or two, with a +considerable quantity of wood ashes. +While still soft from this boiling, they are +laid across the knee, and scraped three or +four times over with a knife. At last they +are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots +serve in like manner to afford cordage for +the Laplanders, but more rarely. The<!-- Page 60 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +latter are more generally used, without +being split, for basket-work. For various +articles of furniture the roots of <i>Tall</i> +(Scotch Fir, <i>Pinus sylvestris</i>) are cut into +small boards. The wood of that tree +serves for inferior kinds of work, and, +amongst other things, for cheese-vats.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders scrape with a knife the +young and tender stalks of the plant called +<i>Jerja</i>, (<i>Sonchus alpinus</i>, <i>Sm. Plant. Ic.</i> +<i>t.</i> 21.) and eat them as a delicacy, like +those of the great <i>Angelica</i> (<i>A. Archangelica</i>), +which in the first year of their +growth are termed <i>Fatno</i>.</p> + +<p>A Laplander always places himself at +the further part of his hut, and his guest +is seated next to him on a skin spread +on purpose. The master of the hut is by +this means enabled to reach the vessel in +which water is kept for drink, and which +always stands in the upper part of the hut.</p> + +<p>The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual +stream both summer and winter. Now if, +according to the general opinion, the water +of this river were derived from exhala<!-- Page 61 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>tions +of the great ocean, collected by the +alps of this country, it should cease to +run when all the alpine tracts are frozen. +The stream must therefore be constantly +fed by neighbouring springs.</p> + +<p>The names by which the Laplanders +distinguish the several times of the day or +night are as follows.</p> + +<p>Midnight is called in their language +<i>kaskia</i>. The remainder of the night before +dawn, <i>pojela kaskia</i>. The morning +dawn, <i>theleeteilyja</i>. Sun-rise, <i>peivimorotak</i>. +Two or three hours after sun-rise, <i>areiteet</i>. +The hour of milking the reindeer, which +is about 8 or 9 o'clock, <i>arrapeivi</i>. Noon, +or dinner time, <i>kaskapeivi</i>. About 5 or 6 +o'clock in the afternoon, <i>eketis peivi</i>. Sunset, +<i>peiveliti</i>. Night, <i>iä</i>.</p> + +<p>The days of the week are named as +follows.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Sunday, <i>Sotno peivi</i>.</p> + +<p>Monday, <i>Mannutaka</i>.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, <i>Tistaka</i>.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, <i>Kaska vacku</i>, or middle of +the week.<!-- Page 62 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> + +<p>Thursday, <i>Tourestaka</i>.</p> + +<p>Friday, <i>Perietaka</i>.</p> + +<p>Saturday, <i>Lavutaka</i>.</p></div> + +<p>They have no names for the months, +but certain weeks are distinguished by the +following appellations.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Midsummer week, <i>Midtsomarvacku</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Peter's week, June 29, <i>Pelasmassu vacku</i>.</p> + +<p>Goose week, <i>Gassa vacku</i>.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the summer, <i>Gaskakis</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Margaret's, July 20, <i>Marcrit</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Olaus' mass, July 29, <i>Vollis</i>.</p> + +<p>(No date mentioned here.) <i>Vehak</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Laurence, Aug. 10, <i>Lauras</i>.</p> + +<p>Reindeer-fawn week, <i>Orryk</i>. When in a +fawn two years old the horns begin to bud.</p> + +<p>St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, <i>Barti</i>.</p> + +<p>(No date.) <i>Hoppmil</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Mary, Sept. 8, <i>Margi</i>.</p> + +<p>Holy Cross, Sept. 14, <i>Behawis</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Matthew, Sept. 21, <i>Matthus</i>.</p> + +<p>St. Michael, Sept. 29, <i>Michel</i>.</p> + +<p>(St. Faith, Oct. 6?) <i>Perkit</i>.</p> + +<p>(Middle of Oct.) <i>Talvi</i>.</p></div><p><!-- Page 63 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 64px;"> +<a href="images/i_063.jpg"><img src="images/i_063_tn.jpg" width="64" height="400" +alt="Laplander's iron-tipped staff; linked to larger image." +title="Laplander's iron-tipped staff; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The annexed figure represents +a Laplander's staff. +It is tipped with a blade of +iron, as thick as the thumb. +With this weapon he attacks +the bear and wolf in the +time of deep snow. On the +lower part of the shaft is +a sort of hoop, six inches in +diameter, made of root of fir, +and fastened with thongs of +reindeer skin, one of which +passes through a hole in the +staff. At the bottom it is +mounted with iron. The +use of this hoop is to prevent +the staff from sinking +into the snow, when used +as a walking-stick. The +shaft itself, made of birch +wood, is about four feet +long, and an inch and half +thick.<!-- Page 64 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 76px;"> +<a href="images/i_064.jpg"><img src="images/i_064_tn.jpg" width="76" height="400" +alt="Wooden snow shoe; linked to larger image." +title="Wooden snow shoe; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>This sketch is taken from +one of their snow shoes, +made of wood. Its length +is six feet, from h to i; +breadth, from k to g, five +inches. The hind part, i, +is rather more obtuse than +the other end, h, which +last is elevated about two +or three inches. From h +it gradually widens to f. +The part from c to d, where +the foot stands, is about +eight inches; its breadth +three. The under part of +the shoe is convex, and +furrowed lengthwise; the +upper flattish, raised about +ten lines, and the edge all +round is sharp. At b is a +band, made of fir root twisted, +serving to tie the shoe +fast round the ancle. The +general thickness of the shoe +throughout is from three to +four lines.<!-- Page 65 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> + +<p>Some people wear a pair of the same +size; others have the left shoe smaller +than the right. Each is often lined or +covered, about the central part, with a +piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent +the foot slipping about upon the shoe, and +give a firmer step in walking over the +snow. This is most practised in Kimi-Lapmark, +where the wild reindeer are +most abundant.</p> + +<p>The Lapland thread is made out of the +tendons of reindeer fawns half a year old. +Such thread is covered with tin foil for +embroidery, its pliability rendering it peculiarly +fit for the purpose. The tendons +are dried in the sun, being hung over a +stick. They are never boiled.</p> + +<p>To show to what a high degree of perfection +these people have arrived in the +art of making such thread, I brought +away a sample of it, which I believe none +of our ladies could match.</p> + +<p>Shoes and baskets made of birch bark +are used both in Angermanland and Hel<!-- Page 66 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>singland, +as well as ropes of the same +material, which will not sink in water, but +these are not in general use.</p> + +<p>The bows which serve the Laplanders +for shooting squirrels are composed of +two different kinds of wood, laid parallel +to each other. The innermost is birch, +the outermost of what they term <i>kior</i>, +<i>kioern</i> or <i>tioern</i>. (This is procured from +a tree of the Common Fir, <i>Pinus sylvestris</i>, +that happens to grow in a curved form, +usually in marshy places, or on the banks +of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard +like box: see <i>vol.</i> i. <i>p.</i> 255; also <i>Fl. Lapp. n.</i> +346, λ.) If this be not practised, the bows +are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood +is externally convex, yet not so much as +to render the bow quite cylindrical.</p> + +<p>When the Laplanders expect any visitors, +they are particularly careful to have plenty +of <i>ris</i> (branches of the dwarf birch) spread +on the floor, under the reindeer skins on +which they sit; otherwise they would be +thought deficient in civility, and the mis<!-- Page 67 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>tress +of the family would be censured as +a bad manager, when the guests returned +to their own homes.</p> + +<p>The mode of their entertainment is as +follows.</p> + +<p>First, if the stranger arrives before their +meat is set over the fire to boil, they present +him either with iced milk, or with +some kind of berries mixed with milk, or +perhaps with cheese, or with <i>kappi</i>, (see +<i>vol.</i> i. <i>p.</i> 281.) Afterwards, when the meat is +sufficiently cooked, and they have taken +it out of the pot, they put into the water, +in which it has been boiled, slices of cheese +made of reindeer milk. This is a testimony +of hospitality, and that they are disposed +to make their guest as welcome as they +can. They next serve up some of their +dry or solid preparations of milk.</p> + +<p>The marriages of the Laplanders are +conducted in the following manner. (This +subject was treated in <i>vol.</i> i. <i>p.</i> 276, like +Sterne's "history of the king of Bohemia +and his seven castles," no doubt to the<!-- Page 68 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +great dismay of the curious reader. We +ought to have warned him of its being +resumed in a subsequent part of the work, +but in truth we had not then ourselves +proceeded so far in deciphering the original +manuscript.)</p> + +<p>1. In the first place the lover addresses +his favourite fair-one in a joking manner, to +try whether his proposal be likely to prove +acceptable or not. Perhaps he even goes +so far as to speak once or twice to her +father upon the subject. He then takes +his leave, either fixing a time for his return, +or not, as it may happen.</p> + +<p>2. The lover next takes with him such +of his nearest relations as live in the neighbourhood, +who, as well as himself, all carry +provisions with them, to the hut of his +mistress, he going last in the procession.</p> + +<p>3. When the party arrive at the place of +their destination, they all, except the lover, +walk in. If there happen to be any other +huts near at hand, it is usual for the +damsel to retire to one of them, that she<!-- Page 69 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +may not be obliged to hear the conversation +of the visitors. Her admirer either +remains on the outside of the door, amongst +the reindeer, or goes into some neighbouring +hut. There are usually two or three +spokesmen in the party, the principal of +whom is called <i>Sugnovivi</i>. When they are +all seated, the young man's father first +presents some brandy to the father of the +young woman; upon which the latter asks +why he treats him with brandy? The former +replies, "I am come hither with a +good intention, and I wish to God that it +may prosper." He then declares his errand. +If the other party should not be favourably +inclined to the proposal, he rejects it, at +the same time thanking the person who +made it. Upon this, all who are present +endeavour to prevail upon him to give his +consent to the marriage. If they succeed, +or in case the offer has from the first been +accepted, the friends of the lover fetch +whatever they have brought along with<!-- Page 70 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +them, consisting of various utensils, and +silver coin, which they place on a reindeer +skin, spread in the hut, before the father +and mother of the intended bride. The +father or the mother of the bridegroom +then distributes the money between the +young woman and her parents. If the sum +be thought too small, the latter ask for +more, and it frequently happens that much +time is spent in bargaining, before they +can come to a conclusion. When the parties +concerned cannot obtain so large a sum +as they think themselves entitled to, they +often reject the whole, and return the +money to those who brought it. But if, +on the contrary, matters are brought to a +favourable conclusion, the parents allow +their daughter to be sent for. Two of the +bridegroom's relations undertake this office. +If the bride has any confidential female +friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm +together; and in this case the mother of +the bridegroom is required to make a pre<!-- Page 71 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>sent +of a few brass rings, or something of +that kind, to this friend or sister, who keeps +lamenting the loss of her companion.</p> + +<p>When the bride enters the hut, her +father asks whether she is satisfied with +what he has done? To which she replies, +that she submits herself to the disposal of +her father, who is the best judge of what +is proper for her. The mother of the +bridegroom then presents the bride with +the sum allotted for her, laying it in her +lap. If it proves less than she had expected, +she shows her dissatisfaction by +various gestures, and signs of refusal, in +which case she may possibly obtain at least +the promise of a larger sum. All these +gifts become her own property.</p> + +<p>When such pecuniary matters are finally +arranged, the father and mother of the +bridegroom present him and his bride with +a cup of brandy, of which they partake +together, and then all the company shake +hands. They afterwards take off their caps, +and one of the company makes an oration,<!-- Page 72 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +praying for God's blessing upon the new-married +couple, and returning thanks to +him who "gives every man his own wife, +and every woman her own husband."</p> + +<p>The parents of the bridegroom next +partake of some brandy, and the whole +stock of that liquor which they had brought +with them is fetched for the company.</p> + +<p>All the relations of the bridegroom then +come forward with their provisions, which +generally consist of several cheeses, and a +piece of meat dried and salted. The latter +is roasted before the fire, while the company +is, in the mean while, regaled with +some of the solid preparations of milk, the +bride and bridegroom eating by themselves, +apart from the rest.</p> + +<p>Two stewards are next chosen, one of +them from the bride's party, the other +from that of the bridegroom. The last-mentioned +party are then required to furnish +a quantity of raw meat, amounting to +about a pound and half to each person. +This the stewards immediately set about<!-- Page 73 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve +it round to all present. This meat is dressed +in several separate pots, two only in +each hut, if there be any neighbours whose +huts can serve to accommodate the party +on this occasion; for each Laplander has +never more than one hut of his own. The +fat part of the broth is first served up in +basons. Afterwards various petticoats or +blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on +the floor, by way of a table-cloth, on +which the boiled meat is placed. The +chief persons of the company then, as +many as can find room, take their places +in the hut of the bride's family, sitting +down round the provision, while the children +and inferiors are accommodated in +the neighbouring huts. Grace is then said. +The bride and bridegroom are placed near +together, for the most part close to the +door, or place of entrance. They are +always helped to the best of the provision. +The company then serve themselves, taking +their meat on the points of their knives,<!-- Page 74 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +and dipping each morsel into some of the +fat broth, in which the whole has been +boiled, before they put it into their mouths. +Numbers of people assemble from the +neighbourhood, to look in upon the company +through the door; and as they expect +to share in the feast, the stewards +give them two or three bits of meat, according +as they respect them more or less. +What remains after every body is satisfied, +is put together, and wrapped up in the +blankets or cloths, that part of it which +is left by the new-married couple being +kept separate from the rest, as no other +person is allowed to partake of their share. +The dinner being over, the whole company +shake hands and return thanks for their +entertainment. They always shake hands +with the bride and bridegroom in the first +place, and then with the rest, saying at +the same time <i>kussl[)a]n</i>.</p> + +<p>After taking some brandy, the whole +party go to bed. The herd of reindeer +had been turned out to pasture from the<!-- Page 75 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +time when the meat was put into the pot. +The bride and bridegroom sleep together +with their clothes on.</p> + +<p>When the company rise in the morning, +if the bridegroom's father and their party +have any thing left, they treat the others +with it; for the family of the bride have +seldom any preparation made, not expecting, +or not being supposed to expect, such +company, and they never keep any brandy +by them, but purchase it for every occasion. +Whatever cold meat therefore remains +is brought forward, to which the +bride's party indeed add cheese, and any +other preparation of milk they may have +in store, as well as any dried meat; such +things being usually kept by them. With +these the party regale themselves by way +of breakfast. Afterwards the family of the +bride boil some fresh meat, as a final repast +for their guests, who, after partaking +of it, take their leave.</p> + +<p>The banns are usually published once. +The marriage ceremony, which is very<!-- Page 76 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +short, is performed after the above-mentioned +company is departed. This being +over, the bridegroom either takes his wife +immediately home with him, or he goes to +his own hut alone, and stays there from +one to five days, after which he returns to +her residence, bringing with him his herd +of reindeer, and stays there for some time +with her.</p> + +<p>Such of the Laplanders as are rich +enough to afford it, make their wives a +present of a coverlet; a petticoat made of +cloth, without any gathers, as usual among +these people; a small silver beaker or cup; +several rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon, +&c.; so that many a bride costs her husband +more than a hundred dollars, copper +money. To the mother he perhaps gives +a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned that the Laplanders +eat <i>Angelica</i> (<i>sylvestris</i>) in a raw +state. This plant, which the inhabitants +of Westbothland call <i>Bioernstut</i>, has so +many names among the Laplanders, ac<!-- Page 77 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>cording +to the different stages of its growth, +as to cause much confusion to a stranger. +The first year of its growth they term the +root <i>Urtas</i>, and the leaves <i>Fadno</i>; but the +second year the plant is known by the +name of <i>Posco</i> or <i>Botsk</i>. When the stalk +is dried, or eaten raw, they call it <i>Rasi</i>, +that is, grass. They say, when any one +has eaten more of this plant than is good +for him, "<i>Elli rasi ist purro etnach</i>," the +meaning of which is, "Thou hast overloaded +thyself with such a quantity of grass."</p> + +<p>Another herb of which they are very +fond is the Sowthistle with a simple stem, +known by the name of <i>Jerja</i>. (<i>Sonchus +alpinus.</i> <i>Fl. Lapp ed.</i> 2. 240. <i>Sm. Pl. 1c. +t.</i> 21. <i>S. lapponicus.</i> <i>Willd. Sp. Pl.</i> <i>v.</i> 3. +1520.) This has a perennial root. The +stem is erect, round, green, smooth, except +a few soft scattered hairs, which are most +remarkable towards the top and bottom, +and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves +about twelve or fourteen, half clasping the +stem, gradually smaller upwards, nearly<!-- Page 78 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +the shape of Dandelion, or of the common +Sowthistle, one half of each leaf, consisting +of the terminal lobe, making exactly an +acute triangle, toothed at the edges; from +that part downwards the leaf contracts, +but not to the main rib, and then again +expands into two narrow appendages, as it +were, equal in breadth, but unequal in +length, which are crenate at their edges. +From thence begins the stalk of the leaf, +which is winged and toothed, and half +embraces the stem. The leaves are thin +and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper +side, and the upper ones are the least divided, +as well as the bluntest. The flowers +are collected into a corymbus, somewhat +like Butterbur, but more loosely, especially +in the lower part, each supported by a very +short stalk, accompanied by a very narrow +oblong leaf which extends beyond the +flower. The calyx consists of several oblong, +narrow, acute, imbricated leaves, +varying in number from fourteen to twenty, +the outermost gradually shortest, but the<!-- Page 79 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +ten innermost are equal in length, and +blunter than the rest, composing two rows; +the calyx altogether is shorter than the +corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Florets +equal in number to the leaves of the +calyx. Germen short, square, crowned +with long white radiating down. Petal +flat, cut away on one side, violet-coloured, +five-toothed. Stamens five, white, their +apex (anther) cylindrical, five-sided, white, +marked with five blue lines. Pistil one, +forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dotted. +This plant grows among trees at the +sides of mountains, along with the narrow-hooded +Aconite (<i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i>), +flowering at the end of July or beginning +of August. The stem, which is milky, is +eaten by the Laplanders in the same manner +as Angelica. The taste was to me very +bitter, but the people of the country do +not find it so, though they confessed that +it appeared bitter to them when they first +learned to eat it. As soon as the plant<!-- Page 80 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody, +and no longer eatable.</p> + +<p>The sinews of which the fine thread is +made that, when covered with tin, serves +for embroidery, and is called <i>tentråd</i> (tin-thread), +are taken from the feet of the +reindeer, or of oxen, boiled; though sometimes +the feet of sea-fowl are chosen for +this purpose. Old women and girls are +employed in preparing this thread, by +drawing it through holes made in a piece +of reindeer's horn. They wind it round +their hands and feet as they form it, and +smear it with fat extracted from the foot +of the animal, to make it more supple, as +they proceed.</p> + +<p>Hay is made in different modes in various +parts of Sweden. In Westbothland +the fresh-cut grass is heaped together over +night, that it may get a heat. Next day +it is spread out, and by this method its +quality is supposed to become richer and +stronger. The same is practised with hops<!-- Page 81 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +in Jamtland, where the fresh-gathered hops +are packed together, as hard as possible, +till they become warm; after which they +are spread out to dry. Their strength is +by this means improved.</p> + +<p>The people of Scania having mowed their +grass, let it lie till dry, when they rake it +together.</p> + +<p>The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed.</p> + +<p>The East Gothlanders range it in heaps, +two and two together, in a long row.</p> + +<p>In Upland the new-mown grass is tied +up in bundles, and collected into cocks.</p> + +<p>In Angermannia the whole year's crop is +laid by upon a kind of raised floor.</p> + +<p>In Westbothland, after being dried in +the shed, the hay is kept there for use, being +laid crosswise, and cut when wanted<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 23.</i></h4> + +<p>This evening I took leave of the alpine<!-- Page 82 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +part of Lapland, and returned by water +from Hyttan towards Lulea.</p> + +<p>The White, or Mountain, Fox (<i>Canis lagopus</i>) +lives among the alps, feeding on the +Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, (<i>Mus Lemmus</i>,) +as well as on the Ptarmigan (<i>Tetrao +Lagopus</i>). This White Fox is smaller than +the common kind. The Ptarmigan, which +the Laplanders call <i>Cheruna</i>, feeds on the +Dwarf Birch (<i>Betula nana</i>), which for that +reason is called <i>Ryprys</i>, or Ptarmigan-bush. +At night this bird lies squat upon the snow, +in the same posture as the Wood Grous +(<i>Tetrao Urogallus</i>, see <i>vol.</i> 1. 179): hence +a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints +it makes in the snow. This mode of roosting +renders the Ptarmigan an easy prey to +the Fox.</p> + +<p>The Lemming or Red Mouse, see <i>p.</i> <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, +(<i>Mus Lemmus</i>,) in some seasons entirely +overruns the country; devouring the corn +and grass: but though these animals thus +occasionally appear by millions at a time, +they subsequently depart and disappear as +unaccountably, so that nobody knows what<!-- Page 83 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +becomes of them. They do no mischief in +the houses.</p> + +<p>The Ermine (<i>Mustela Erminea</i>) is white +in winter, red in summer. This animal is +seldom met with on the alps, but is very +plentiful in the forests. Foxes and Wolves +have destroyed the chief of the Hares. +The Wolves indeed kill the Foxes.</p> + +<p>The Shrew Mouse (<i>Sorex araneus</i>) and +Common Small Mouse (<i>Mus Musculus</i>) are +found in Lapmark, but no Rats (<i>Mus +Rattus</i>).</p> + +<p>Hunting the Bear is often undertaken +by a single man, who, having discovered +the retreat of the animal, takes his dog +along with him and advances towards the +spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round +with a cord, to prevent his barking, and +the man holds the other end of this cord +in his hand. As soon as the dog smells +the bear, he begins to show signs of uneasiness, +and by dragging at the cord informs +his master that the object of his +pursuit is at no great distance. When the<!-- Page 84 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +Laplander by this means discovers on which +side the bear is stationed, he advances in +such a direction that the wind may blow +from the bear to him, and not the contrary; +for otherwise the animal would by the scent +be aware of his approach, though not able +to see an enemy at any considerable distance, +being half blinded by the sunshine. +When he has gradually advanced to within +gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him; +and this is the more easily accomplished in +autumn, as the bear is then more fearless, +and is continually prowling about for berries +of different kinds, on which he feeds +at that season of the year. Should the +man chance to miss his aim, the furious +beast will directly turn upon him in a rage, +and the little Laplander is obliged to take +to his heels with all possible speed, leaving +his knapsack behind him on the spot. The +bear coming up with this, seizes upon it, biting +and tearing it into a thousand pieces. While +he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all +his attention, upon the knapsack, the Lap<!-- Page 85 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>lander +takes the opportunity of loading his +gun, and firing a second time; when he is +generally sure of hitting the mark, and the +bear either falls upon the spot or runs away.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 24.</i></h4> + +<p>In the huts of this neighbourhood I +observed an instrument which I had no +where noticed before, consisting of an oblong +board, placed transversely at the end +of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while +boiling.</p> + +<p>Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the +west, and on the south of the mountain of +Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but +hardly worth working while the roads, by +which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are +in so bad a state.</p> + +<p>This night I beheld a star, for the first +time since I came within the arctic circle. +Nevertheless the darkness was not considerable +enough to prevent my reading or +writing whatever I pleased.</p> + +<p>One of the Laplanders had caught a<!-- Page 86 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +quantity of the fish called <i>Sikloja</i> (<i>Salmo +Albula</i>) of a large size. He stuck about +twenty of them on one spit, the back of +each being placed towards the belly of the +next, and they were thus roasted before +the fire. These fish had previously been +dried, though not at all salted.</p> + +<p>The glue used by the Laplanders for +joining the two portions of different woods +of which their bows are made (see <i>p.</i> <a href="#Page_66">66</a>,) +is prepared from the Common Perch (<i>Perca +fluviatilis</i>) in the following manner. Some +of the largest of this fish being flayed, +the skins are first dried, and afterwards +soaked in a small quantity of cold water, +so that the scales can be rubbed off. Four +or five of these skins being wrapped up +together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch +bark, so that no water can get at them, +are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil, +a stone being laid over the pot, to keep in +the heat. The skins thus prepared make a +very strong glue, insomuch that the articles +joined with it will never separate again.<!-- Page 87 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +A bandage is tied round the bow while +making, to hold the two parts the more +firmly together.</p> + +<p>When these people undertake a short +journey only, they carry no bag for provisions, +the latter being stored between +their outer and inner jackets, which are +always bound with a girdle, being wide, +and formed of numerous folds, both above +and below it.</p> + +<p>The Purple Willow-herb, or <i>Epilobium</i> +(<i>angustifolium</i>?) made the fields at this +time very beautiful. The Golden-rod (<i>Solidago +Virgaurea</i>) was likewise here in blossom, +though not yet upon the alps, where +it flowers later.</p> + +<p>I have never yet seen any animal swim +so light as the reindeer. During the dogdays +the herds of reindeer, belonging to +the inhabitants of the woody parts of Lapland, +are very badly off for want of snow, +with which those animals refresh themselves +in hot weather upon the alps. Hence they +constitute a more valuable and thriving pro<!-- Page 88 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>perty +to the alpine Laplanders than to any +others. In the winter time, when the favourite +Lichen of the reindeer (<i>L. rangiferinus</i>) +cannot be got at, their keepers fell +trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to +serve them for food; but it scarcely proves +sufficient.</p> + +<p>The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a +very white appearance, as if milk had been +mixed with it. This the inhabitants term +<i>kalkwatter</i>, or lime-water, from the colour, +not from any knowledge of its cause or +origin. This rivulet they told me came +from the alps. It empties itself into the +great river near Kiomitis, and renders the +water of that river white for the space of +four or five miles. I noticed a similar +phænomenon at Wirijaur.</p> + +<p>I was amused with the mode in which +these Laplanders take brandy. After they +have laid hold of the mug, they dip their +forefingers into the liquor, and rub a little +on their foreheads, as well as on the middle +of their bosoms. On inquiring the reason,<!-- Page 89 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +I was told their intention was that the +brandy might not prove hurtful either to +the head or breast.</p> + +<p>Some people here were regaling themselves +with fresh fish, of the kind lately +mentioned (<i>Salmo Albula</i>), which having +boiled into a mass like pap or flummery, +they were eating out of their hands.</p> + +<p>The dress of the Laplanders is, in one +particular at least, very wisely contrived. +Their thick collars effectually protect the +throat and breast, which being furnished +with numerous nerves and small muscles, +and being the seat of the windpipe and of +many principal veins and arteries, are very +important and susceptible parts. The neck +moreover, from its slender shape, is peculiarly +exposed to cold. Hence the protection +of clothing is found very necessary +to the parts in question. For want of it +our young women suffer much injury, which +our youths avoid by running into the contrary +extreme of tying their neckcloths<!-- Page 90 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +so tight as to make themselves as red in +the face as if they were half strangled.</p> + +<p>We Swedes are accustomed to have all +our clothing made very tight. Not only +the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat, +breeches, stockings, sleeves, &c., must all +stick close to the body, and the tighter +they are the more fashionable. The Laplanders, +on the contrary, wear only two, +and those slight, bandages about them, +which moreover are broad, and therefore +less injurious than a narrow bandage in any +part. Those to which I allude are the +waistband and knees of their breeches, both +made sufficiently loose and easy.</p> + +<p>To-day I gathered the following plants.—A +reed-like panicled Grass, with a very +slender branched stem. (This appears to +have been <i>Arundo Calamagrostis</i>, <i>Fl. Lapp.</i> +<i>n.</i> 42.)</p> + +<p>A great aquatic <i>Carex</i>, with inflated, +whitish, pendulous spikes. In more dry +situations they were upright and shorter,<!-- Page 91 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +but in every other particular the same. (<i>C. +vesicaria.</i>) A grass with a slender dark-coloured +panicle, approaching the stem. +(<i>Agrostis rubra</i>, <i>Fl. Lapp.</i> <i>n.</i> 46.)</p> + + +<h4><i>July 25.</i></h4> + +<p>The lakes in this part of the country did +not afford me so many plants as further +south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and +destitute of vegetation. Their shores were +no less barren. No Water-lilies (<i>Nymphææ</i>), +no Water-docks, &c., (different species of +<i>Rumex</i>,) grew about their borders, but the +surface of the water itself was covered with +the Water Ranunculus (<i>R. aquatilis</i>), bearing +round as well as capillary leaves, and +whitening the whole with its blossoms. I +could not but wonder to see these broad +patches of white spread over the lakes, +though, when I passed up the country but +a fortnight before, I had not perceived the +least appearance of even the herbage of the +<i>Ranunculus</i> that composed them. Now its<!-- Page 92 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +branches, an ell in length, swam on the +surface. The growth of the stem must be +very rapid, as it often proceeded from a +depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants +thrown up on the shore had capillary leaves, +as are all those which grow under the water. +The root resembles that of the <i>Iris</i>.</p> + +<p>I noticed also the Pondweed with leaves +clasping the stem (<i>Potamogeton perfoliatum</i>, +rare in Lapland); and a very large +branched floating Water-grass, with cylindrical +spikes, which I hesitate whether to +separate from the <i>Gramen aquaticum geniculatum +spicatum</i>, (of Bauhin and Rudbeck. +<i>Alopecurus geniculatus</i> of Linnæus. +The grass of which he here speaks is <i>n.</i> 38 +of his <i>Flora Lapponica.</i> <i>A. geniculatus</i> β, +<i>Sp. Pl.</i> 89.)</p> + +<p>The annexed figure represents the Norwegian +cross-bow, used for shooting squirrels, +which it will hit at the distance of +twenty or thirty paces as certainly as a gun.</p> + +<p>It was curious to observe the dexterity<!-- Page 93 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a></span><!-- Page 94 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +with which one of the Laplanders hit +a small fly, which I had set up for a mark, +at the distance of thirty paces.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 244px;"> +<a href="images/i_093.jpg"><img src="images/i_093_tn.jpg" width="244" height="400" +alt="Norwegian cross-bow; linked to larger image." +title="Norwegian cross-bow; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is +two feet and a half long, two inches wide +in the middle, gradually sloping off to the +extremities, which are only one inch in +width. Each end is rounded, with a notch, +where the cord is fixed, which, when the +bow is drawn, seems in danger of immediately +slipping off, but it never does. The +whole bow when at rest makes a curve of +two inches; when strongly bent it forms +one of seven.</p> + +<p>The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is +made of twisted hemp, as thick as one's +finger, bound round with hempen thread, +especially in the middle, where it is to receive +the bolt.</p> + +<p>The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented +with inlaid work of bone, is two feet and a +half long, and half a palm broad, being half +an inch thick towards the top, and an inch at +the base. Its upper side is entirely covered<!-- Page 95 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +with the above-mentioned inlaying, and +quite even or flat, except towards the base +or handle, where it is slightly concave.</p> + +<p>The part marked d on the bow, and D +on a larger scale annexed, is the catch, like +a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and +in the side of which is a projection, with a +rectangular notch, see <i>fig.</i> 1 and 2. When +the bow is bent, the angle at <i>fig.</i> 2 catches +the cord, and is let go by means of the +apparatus represented at c, c, by the side.</p> + +<p>As no human being is sufficiently strong +to draw this bow with the hands alone, a +strap of leather is fixed round the loins, +ending in two iron hooks, which lay hold +of the cord. One foot is put into the strap +at the top of the bow, h, and then, by the +exertion of the body, the bow is drawn till +the cord catches the angle of the pulley D.<!-- Page 96 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 46px;"> +<a href="images/i_096.jpg"><img src="images/i_096_tn.jpg" width="46" height="400" +alt="Bolt of a Norwegian cross-bow; linked to larger image." +title="Bolt of a Norwegian cross-bow; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The annexed cut represents +the bolt of this Norwegian crossbow, +which is a foot and half +long, an inch thick. From the +extremity, which is thicker and +blunt, to the feathered part, is +about a foot. The feathers, taken +from the wing of the great Grous +or Cock of the wood, (<i>Tetrao +Urogallus</i>,) are stripped from +the quill, and placed erect in +three longitudinal rows; and after +being bound on with thread, the +part by which they are attached +is smeared with pitch, to fix +them the more firmly. The +whole bolt is made of birch +wood. Its base is compressed, +naked and smooth, formed with a +groove to receive the bow-string.</p> + +<p>This more finished and elaborate +sort of bow is principally +used in Westbothnia. The whole +cost of one, with all its appurte<!-- Page 97 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>nances, +amounts to fifteen dollars, copper +money. The Laplanders therefore content +themselves with a far more rude and simple +apparatus, consisting of such a wooden +bow made of birch, as I have already described, +with a string fitted to it. Or they +merely cut a branch of fir in the forest, +and with any bit of cord that happens to +come in their way, kill abundance of squirrels, +holding the bow with their left hand, +and drawing it with their right by means of +a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I +have witnessed, take successful aim at the +<i>Emberiza nivalis</i>, or Snow Bunting, sitting +on the tops of the most lofty pines.</p> + +<p>It is commonly reported that no clay is +to be found in Lapland, but I met with +some in two different places; in each instance +indeed it was at the bottom of a +lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask, +the shores being of sand though the bottom +was clay.</p> + +<p>Nets are set in the lakes in winter to +catch the Sijk fish (<i>Salmo Lavaretus</i>, or<!-- Page 98 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose +in the ice, and the nets are dragged with a +string. This is done from St. Andrew's +day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders make their sledges serve +for chests, when they are not used for their +proper purpose, by constructing a sort of +roof or convex covering, with an opening +in the middle, to admit whatever they +choose to store up within. This opening +shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in this +state occasionally serve for the conveyance +of goods from one place to another, the +covering keeping them dry.</p> + +<p>Caps are made of the skin of the <i>Colymbus +arcticus</i>, (Black-throated Diver,) which +is very tough when properly prepared. +This bird has a grey ring round its neck, as +described by Wormius.</p> + +<p>I met with a <i>Carex</i>, bearing round capsules, +full of black powder. (Probably +<i>Carex panicea</i>, whose seeds are often infected +with the <i>ustilago</i> or smut.)<!-- Page 99 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>July 26.</i></h4> + +<p>I shall here give a description of the +<i>Achier</i> or sledge. This is a kind of travelling +machine invented by the Laplanders, +drawn along the ground like other sledges, +and made of birch wood. The back part +is upright, or nearly so, the lower part only +being somewhat sloping inwards, and its +form is roundish, the height a foot, the +breadth a foot and a half. The body of +the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with +an obtuse keel, and consists of five longitudinal +boards on each side, lying one +over the edge of another; that which forms +the keel being about an inch thick, and +lying flat like the others. Each board is not +externally plane, but convex, so that as the +carriage is drawn over the snow it leaves +several tracks or lines where it goes, the +board which forms the keel only being +quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at +one extremity in a circular manner to the +roundish board that makes the back, (or as<!-- Page 100 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +it were the stern,) are collected by their +points at the other, and all bound together +with a rope, for there are no nails to fasten +them. The whole carriage is six feet in +length, and from the back part to within +two feet of the front its breadth is all the +way about four feet. From that spot the +keel begins to curve upwards, and the +transverse dimensions are contracted gradually +to a point. This sledge is drawn by +a rope that goes through a hole in the front +of the keel. The edges or sides of the +machine do not curve outwards, but rather +inwards. When any covering is to be put +on, which is always done in part when any +person is to travel sitting in this carriage, +and entirely, from one end to the other, +when it is intended to be used for the conveyance +of goods, two or three semicircular +or archlike bows are erected, fixed by their +ends within the edges of the carriage, +which serve to support a covering of seal-skin, +or cloth, whose margin next the back +is loose, and so far distant from that part<!-- Page 101 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +as to allow the traveller to sit upright, +his legs lying under the cover, while the +said margin is tied round his waist, like an +apron, serving to keep the snow out of the +hollow part of the machine. The person +of the traveller is further secured by +strings fixed to the edges of the carriage, +which lace around him across the top, so as +to prevent his being thrown out by any +oblique or unexpected movement. Each +board, which composes the body of the +sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside, +but still the whole internal surface is sufficiently +smooth and even. The point in +front sometimes projects a foot beyond the +hollow part<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>.</p> +<p><!-- Page 102 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> +<p>It is worthy of notice that the Laplanders +use no almanack, but in its stead +only a kind of instrument like the ancient +runic calendar of the Goths, composed of +seven small splinters or boards. They +have indeed names to mark some periods, +as already mentioned p. <a href="#Page_62">62</a>; but they do +not, like us, compute time by the month, +but by the course of their various holidays. +They have also a name for every week. +They are unable to tell when an eclipse of +the sun or moon is to be expected. The +year begins, by their reckoning, on the +Friday before Christmas day.</p> + +<p>The people in the part of the country +where I was now travelling wear, in summertime, +either a coat of walmal cloth next the +skin, or no coat at all, only a <i>lappmudd</i> as +they call it, (or garment of reindeer-skin,) +stripped of its hair.<!-- Page 103 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> + +<p>At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where +we in vain attempted to procure a boat. +We had no resource but to make ourselves +a float or raft, on which we committed our +persons and all our property to the guidance +of the current of the river. The night +proved very dark in consequence of a thick +fog, insomuch that we could not see before +us to the distance of three fathoms. After +a while we found ourselves in the middle of +the stream, and it was not long before the +force of the water separated the timbers of +our raft, and we were in imminent danger +of our lives. At length however, with the +greatest difficulty, we reached a house situated +on an island, after a voyage of half +a mile from where we embarked<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>.</p> +<p><!-- Page 104 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> +<p>At Purkijaur I hired a man to show me +the manner of fishing for pearls, for which +I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made +a raft of five timbers as thick as my body, +and two fathoms in length. At each end +was a staple to which the anchor was attached. +This anchor was nothing more +than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch +that it might not be lost, to which he fastened +a cord, about two fathoms in length, +made of birch twigs. He was likewise furnished +with a pole of the same length, +which served him to steer his raft, as it +floated along the strong current. The +bottom of the river is not easily seen at any +great depth; but when he could distinctly +perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor, +fixing the upper end of the rope to the +staple on the raft, by which it became stationary. +Whenever he wished to examine +another spot, he weighed anchor, and re<!-- Page 105 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>signed +himself to the force of the current. +Where the water was shallow, he stood upright +on his raft; but where the depth was +considerable, he lay at full length, with his +face downwards, looking over the edge of +the raft.</p> + +<p>By means of a pair of wooden pincers, +two fathoms in length, he laid hold of the +pearl oysters (rather muscles, <i>Mya margaritifera</i>,) +and drew them up. The part +of the pincers below the joint or hinge was +about a span long, and of three fingers +breadth, hollowed out at the points, one of +which was curved, the other flat. Taking the +other end of these pincers in his hands, he +easily directed them to the spot where he +saw the shells lying.</p> + +<p>The latter were generally open, so that +they might readily be discerned by the +whiteness of their inside; but when the +water is very much agitated, the animals +immediately close their shells, though destitute +of eyes or ears.</p> + +<p>The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong,<!-- Page 106 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +with a contraction, or shallow notch as it +were, about the middle of their outer margin. +The man opened them by means of +a whilk shell, which he thrust with violence +between the valves, for it is impossible to +effect this with the finger only. He introduced +the point of the whilk in the centre +of the base, or broader end, of the muscle, +searching for the pearls chiefly towards the +other end, on the inside of the valve. If +the inside of the latter be white, the pearl +is white; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is +of the same colour.</p> + +<p>When it was first discovered that this +neighbourhood produced pearls, the river +at Purkijaur was the place where the principal +pearl-fishery was established. But +now it is nearly exhausted. When the +discovery of this bed of pearl muscles was +first made, it is said the shells were in such +abundance that nobody could reach the +bottom of them, which is far from being +the case at present.</p> + +<p>There is no external sign about the shell,<!-- Page 107 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +by which it is possible to know whether +it contains a pearl or not. Consequently +many thousands are destroyed to no purpose +before one pearl is found. It is also a +great pity that all the muscles are killed in +consequence of this examination. Each +pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose. +They are found at all seasons of the year, +and are sometimes thrown out of the shell +spontaneously by its inhabitant.</p> + +<p>I witnessed at this place what appeared +to me a very extraordinary phenomenon, +a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was +found a young duck entire. The peasant +who was my companion told me he had +many times seen the same thing.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 27.</i></h4> + +<p>The reindeer fed with evident avidity on +the great water Horsetail (<i>Equisetum fluviatile</i>), +which the Laplanders call <i>Aske</i>, +though it was in a dry state, and though +they will not eat common hay. How unaccountably +negligent are the Laplanders,<!-- Page 108 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +not to collect in the course of summer a +stack of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss +(<i>Lichen rangiferinus</i>) for winter fodder! +They would then have some provision for +the herd, when the country is covered with +an impenetrable crust of frozen snow, and +not hazard the loss of all they are worth +in the world.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Westbothnia, to defend +themselves against the bites of gnats, +besmear their skin with a mixture of tar +and fish-grease, or some other kind of fat. +They keep this composition in a horn which +hangs at their side. The Laplanders however +give themselves no trouble about any +such matter.</p> + +<p>In order to add to the pungency of the +tobacco which they are in the habit of +chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the +root of <i>Angelica</i>. (<i>A. Archangelica</i> is preferred, +but when that is not at hand, the +<i>sylvestris</i> is used, as appears from the <i>Flora +Lapponica</i>.)</p> + +<p>The women wear their belts in the same<!-- Page 109 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +manner as the men, except when they are +big with child, in which case the belt must +necessarily be placed much higher than +ordinary.</p> + +<p>This day I found the little heart-leaved +<i>Ophrys</i> (<i>O. cordata</i>) growing, as it usually +does, amongst the <i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>, +whilst I was gathering the fruit of the latter. +Also the least <i>Pinguicula</i> (<i>P. villosa</i>); but +its leaves were withered, and the fruit was +ripe, which is heartshaped and emarginate, +of two valves and one cell. The last-mentioned +plant grew among White-moss +(<i>Sphagnum palustre</i>. These specimens are +still preserved in the Linnæan herbarium.)</p> + +<p>The bird called (by the Swedes) Lappskata, +Rödfogel in Westbothland, Gvousach +in Lapland, (<i>Corvus infaustus</i>, <i>Faun. Suec.</i> +32. <i>Lath. Ind.</i> 159. <i>Lanius infaustus</i>, +<i>Syst. Nat.</i> <i>v.</i> 1. 138,) is of a small size, +but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it +can find, being so far from timid that it +flew away with part of our provisions as<!-- Page 110 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +we sat at table. This bird seems nearly +allied to the Jay (<i>Corvus glandarius</i>).</p> + +<p>It is only in winter the clothes of the +Laplanders have any sort of lining, except +that these people generally wear, next the +stomach, the skin of a young reindeer fawn. +The sleeves of their coats are not fixed +to the jacket, or body of the garment. +The part which covers the shoulder folds +over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of +a wedge. A seam reaches the whole length +of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each +side, the jacket becoming gradually wider, +downward. It reaches as low as the middle +of the leg. The collar is for the most +part blue, stitched with white thread.</p> + +<p>The reindeer are not slaughtered in the +same manner as cattle usually are either at +Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal +being secured with a halter, the Laplander +takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax +behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the +heart. By this means the blood collects +in the cavity of the thorax, none of it ap<!-- Page 111 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>pearing +externally. After the skin is flayed +off, the blood is found coagulated in the +thorax, from whence it is extracted, and +bruised into a soft mass. With this the +poorer sort of people make a kind of soup, +by boiling along with it the brains of the +animal, which the rich do not eat. The +testicles are never eaten by any sort of +people. The <i>penis</i> serves to make a thong +to draw the sledges.</p> + +<p>Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the +forests go to the alps at midsummer and +return about St. Laurence's day (August +10th); and the mountain Laplanders +descend into the lower country between the +first of November and Christmas, and go +back again about Lady-day.</p> + +<p>All kinds of clothing made of skins +are sewed with sinews of animals, as before +described; but those of walmal cloth, +with hempen thread purchased from the +neighbouring countries.<!-- Page 112 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>July 28.</i></h4> + +<p>To-day I found the <i>Pseudo-helleborine</i>; +(possibly <i>Cypripedium Calceolus</i>, not before +mentioned in this journal.)</p> + +<p>All the little rills and rivulets hereabouts +produced a <i>Potamogeton</i>, which I was +doubtful whether to distinguish from the +common kind, as it varies excessively in appearance, +but the leaves are more grassy. +(<i>P. gramineum</i>, as appears from the <i>Flora +Lapponica</i>, yet nothing can be less like the +"common kind," if by the latter be meant +the <i>natans</i>, which, with the <i>perfoliatum</i> +and <i>gramineum</i>, compose the catalogue of +species in <i>Fl. Lapp.</i>)</p> + +<p>Hereabouts grew the <i>Juncus</i> with three +seeds (<i>capsules</i>) at the top of the stem, which +also I observed to be sometimes reflexed. +(<i>J. triglumis</i>; see <i>Fl. Lapp.</i> ed. 2. 90.)</p> + +<p>Several days ago the forests had been set +on fire by lightning, and the flames raged +at this time with great violence, owing to +the drought of the season. In many different +places, perhaps in nine or ten that<!-- Page 113 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +came under my notice, the devastation extended +several miles' distance. I traversed a +space three quarters of a mile in extent which +was entirely burnt, so that Flora, instead +of appearing in her gay and verdant attire, +was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhorrent +to my feelings than to see her clad in +the white livery of winter, for this, though +it destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in +safety, which the fire does not. The fire +was nearly extinguished in most of the spots +we visited, except in ant-hills, and dry +trunks of trees. After we had travelled +about half a quarter of a mile across one +of these scenes of desolation, the wind began +to blow with rather more force than it +had done, upon which a sudden noise arose +in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only +compare to what may be imagined among +a large army attacked by an enemy. We +knew not whither to turn our steps. The +smoke would not suffer us to remain where +we were, nor durst we turn back. It seemed +best to hasten forward, in hopes of<!-- Page 114 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +speedily reaching the outskirts of the wood; +but in this we were disappointed. We ran +as fast as we could, in order to avoid being +crushed by the falling trees, some of which +threatened us every minute. Sometimes +the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden, +that we stood aghast, not knowing whither +to turn to escape destruction, and throwing +ourselves entirely on the protection of Providence. +In one instance a large tree fell +exactly between me and my guide, who +walked not more than a fathom from me, +but, thanks to God! we both escaped in +safety. We were not a little rejoiced when +this perilous adventure terminated, for we +had felt all the while like a couple of outlaws, +in momentary fear of surprise.</p> + +<p>I have long ago related my sufferings +from gnats in the course of my Lapland +expedition. In this place I was still more +incommoded by some very small flies, +about a line in length and very narrow. +Their breast was of a blueish grey. Front +of the head whitish, with black eyes. Wings<!-- Page 115 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and narrow. +A white scale was placed on each +side at the insertion of the wings. The +legs were black, with a white joint in the +middle of each, the base being speckled. +The hind part of the shoulders was whitish. +<i>Antennæ</i> simple, minute, parallel, and pointing +right forward. The wings lay one over +the other so as to resemble a single one, +notched at the extremity, when the insect +was at rest. Each of us was beset by a +whole legion of these flies towards sun-set. +What rendered them peculiarly troublesome +was their manner of running over +the face, and flying into the nose, mouth +and eyes. When they were approaching +in order to inflict their bite, they were not +to be driven away by our blowing ever so +hard. The Laplanders call these insects +<i>Mockere</i>, alluding to the smallness of their +head; the Swedes <i>Knott</i>. (<i>Culex reptans.</i> +Linnæus mentions in the <i>Fauna Suecica</i> +the extremely tiresome noise made by these +gnats in their approach.) They covered<!-- Page 116 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +our linen so as to render it quite black. It +was to no purpose to attempt to drive them +away. (See <i>v.</i> 1. 208.)</p> + +<p>I visited the Laxholms, islands so called +from the salmon fishery. Here the Common +Salmon (<i>Salmo Salar</i>, named <i>Lax</i> by +the Swedes,) is found with the under jaw +occasionally hooked, which variety is termed +<i>Kroklax</i>, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired +whether this hooked kind was esteemed a +distinct species, or whether a difference +arising from age; to both which questions +I was answered in the negative. I was +shown fish of the smallest size, which had +in proportion as large a hook to the lower +jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore +fallen into an error in his dissertation upon +salmon. (<i>Daniel Bonge</i>, <i>Dissertatio de +Salmonum naturâ</i>, <i>corumque apud Ostrobothnienses +piscatione</i>, <i>Upsal.</i> 1730. 4to. +under the presidency of Professor Roberg, +with wooden cuts.) I inquired whether +the hooked salmon were furnished with roe +or with milt. I was answered that they<!-- Page 117 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +had always milt. On opening seven of +them I found this verified, whereas four +salmon which were not hooked had all of +them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon +is so called, because the point of its lower +jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form, +resembling a finger; while on the contrary +the upper is furnished with a cavity to receive +that point, embracing it like a sheath, +for about half its length. The female fish +has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less +inflexed, there being only a very slight +furrow in the upper one; so that the two +sexes may be distinguished from each other +by these marks from the earliest age.</p> + +<p>Those who fish for salmon come to this +place about a fortnight before midsummer, +and remain till St. Bartholomew's day, +August 24th, as during that space of time +the salmon keep ascending the river. After +the day last mentioned none of the fishermen +remain. Few of the fish escape being +taken, so as to return down the river. +At Michaelmas the fishermen come here<!-- Page 118 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +again, when they catch a smaller sort of +salmon.</p> + +<p>This day I observed the harvest beginning. +The corn now cutting, though sown +but a few days before midsummer, was +nevertheless quite ripe. The lent rye was +not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the +winter rye ripens some time before the +other corn. Thus it appears that corn +(barley) springs up and ripens at this place +in the space of sixty days.</p> + +<p>In my walks I gathered the berries of +the Strawberry-leaved Bramble (<i>Rubus +arcticus</i>), which proved delicious. They +have somewhat of the flavour of Blackberries +(<i>Rubus fruticosus</i>), but are more +agreeable. This fruit does not separate +from its calyx like other specie of its genus. +It is a compound berry, in size and +structure somewhat between what the Smolanders +call <i>Kodden</i> (<i>Rubus saxatilis</i>), and +Raspberries (<i>R. idæus</i>). Its colour is a +brownish crimson.</p> + +<p>The (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i><!-- Page 119 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +is perennial, with scales, not a fibrous tuft or +beard, at the root<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>. The stem is round, not +quadrangular. Calyx five-cleft<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>. Lower lip +regular, divided into three equal segments.</p> + +<p><i>Pedicularis</i> with a purple head (<i>Bartsia +alpina.</i> <i>Linn. Sp. Pl.</i> 839. <i>Engl. Bot. +t.</i> 361. <i>Euphrasia.</i> <i>Fl. Lapp. n.</i> 246.) +shows an affinity to the <i>Crista Galli</i> (<i>Rhinanthus</i>) +in its calyx, which is divided into +four equal acute segments. The fruit is +ovate and acute, compressed at the point. +Lower lip straight. All the other <i>Pediculares</i>, +except <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>, have an +oblique fruit.</p> + +<p>Here and there grew specimens of Heath +(<i>Erica vulgaris</i>) with tufted branches, +looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very +beautiful.</p> + +<p>The water of the river now began to decrease, +in consequence of which it became<!-- Page 120 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +clearer, and it was more difficult to catch +any fish.</p> + +<p>Scarcely any species of <i>Carex</i> was to be +found this season but what had some degree +of smut or <i>ustilago</i> about its spikes, +consisting of little globular black bodies, +changing to dust.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 29.</i></h4> + +<p>Tanning of leather is thus performed by +the Laplanders.</p> + +<p>The scaly cuticle of the birch being first +stripped off, the bark is then scraped from +the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about +as long a time as is requisite to boil fish; +being afterwards set by to cool, to a certain +degree, that it may not injure the hide +by being too hot. The latter, having previously +been scalded, by dipping into luke-warm +water, is then soaked in the decoction +of bark, and the vessel containing it +sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the +extremity of the hut. The hide is taken +out every day, and softened in luke-warm<!-- Page 121 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +water, till the hair becomes loose, when it +is scraped off by such a knife as tanners +use. The skin is then replaced in the tan +when cool, without any previous drying, +till the third day after the hair comes off, +when it is hung up to dry in the shade. +When the leather is but half dry, they +often cut it up for shoes, which are always +made by the women, without any last. +The thread used for the purpose is that +made of tendons.</p> + +<p>Some persons never scald the hide, but +scrape off the hair with a knife, soak it a +little in water, and then plunge it into the +tan.</p> + +<p>Near Swartlär I noticed a mineral spring, +but whatever may be its qualities, nobody +has yet made any inquiries concerning +them.</p> + +<p>The river Lulea divides into two branches, +not far above the bounds of Lapmark +and Westbothnia, one of which is called +the little river Lulea, whose origin is among +the mountains towards Hyttan, the other<!-- Page 122 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +Stor Lulea, running from the alps in Nörbattra.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 30.</i></h4> + +<p>On examining the cultivated Hop (<i>Humulus +Lupulus</i>), I found the structure of +the female as follows. Calyx consisting of +an universal involucrum of four leaves, and +a partial one, likewise of four ovate leaves, +containing eight florets, each of which has +an ovate spatha, of a very large size with +respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Petals +none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas +acute. Seed-vessel none, the base of the +spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary.</p> + +<p>The shore of the river Lulea produced, +in excessive abundance, the Water Sedum +(<i>Tillæa aquatica</i>); likewise the Aquatic +Dwarf Plantain (<i>Limosella aquatica</i>). The +Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here +grew above other plants, twisting its leaves +round them, like a sort of bindweed. (<i>Alopecurus +geniculatus</i> β. <i>Sp. Pl.</i> 89. See +<i>Fl. Lapp. n.</i> 38.)<!-- Page 123 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Water Sedum (<i>Tillæa aquatica</i>) +proved no less plentiful by the sides of the +roads.</p> + +<p>In the river I gathered an herb, which +I was doubtful whether to refer to <i>Stellaria</i> +(<i>Callitriche</i>), to <i>Potamogeton</i>, or to the +<i>Aponogeton</i> of Pontedera. (This appears to +have been the latter, <i>Zannichellia palustris</i>.)</p> + +<p>I reached the old town of Lulea in the +evening.</p> + +<p>It rained and thundered violently during +the whole night.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 31.</i></h4> + +<p>This day I had intended to prosecute my +journey towards Tornea, but a heavy rain, +with tremendous thunder and lightning, +confined me entirely to the house.</p> + +<p>The wife of the principal clergyman of +Lulea, on whose accuracy I have the greatest +possible dependance, assured me that +she had, at the posthouse of Biorsiö, in the +parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large +quantities of the Yellow Aconite (<i>Aconitum +lycoctonum</i>;<!-- Page 124 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> see <i>vol.</i> 1. 36), collected and +boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage. +This astonished her very much, as she +knew it to be used in Jemtland to poison +flies. When she expressed her apprehensions +about eating of this herb, the maid-servant +laughed at her, telling her it was +much too good to be so slighted.</p> + +<p>Hares are always hunted in this part of +the country, and the dogs are trained not +to bark. If they offend in this respect they +are sure of a beating.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 1.</i></h4> + +<p>I found some Truffles (<i>Lycoperdon Tuber</i>) +between Heden and Swartlä.</p> + +<p>Near the road grew <i>Glaux</i> (<i>maritima</i>), +as well as the Narrow-leaved Sea Plantain +(<i>Plantago maritima</i>), and Small-leaved +<i>Angelica</i> (<i>A. sylvestris</i>). On a bank I observed +<i>Triticum maritimum</i>. (This last is +thought by Dr. Afzelius to be <i>Elymus arenarius</i>. +See <i>Fl. Lapp. ed.</i> 2 <i>n.</i> 34.)</p> + +<p>Here various plants, which I had found<!-- Page 125 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +blossoming at Umœa, were now laden with +fruit, as the <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus suecica</i>), +<i>Vaccinia</i> (Whortle-berries), <i>Chamæmorus</i> +(<i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i>, Cloud-berry), and +<i>Chamærubus</i> (<i>R. saxatilis</i>, Stone Bramble), +all which vied with each other in the profusion +of their berries. But little Ling +(<i>Erica</i>) was to be seen.</p> + +<p>The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds, +which had partly been burnt, were covered +with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-moss +(<i>Lichen rangiferinus</i>).</p> + +<p>Towards evening I arrived at Tornea. +The weather was fine.</p> + +<p>Near Grotnäs, situated opposite to the +church of Calix, is a ferry to convey passengers +to this church, adjoining to which +the inhabitants of Lulea and Tornea keep +a fair.</p> + +<p>The river produces abundance of Flote-grass, +which at this time bore its spikes or +heads of flowers. I had long been acquainted +with the plant, it being very abundant +in this country as well as in Smoland, and<!-- Page 126 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +had wondered what species it could be; +especially as I never heard of any botanist +who had met with the fructification. It is +a <i>Sparganium</i>, whose leaves are very long, +reaching a fathom or two, according to the +depth of the water, and floating on its surface. +They are convex at their back, except +in the lower part, which is flat on +both sides. (This plant named <i>Flotagræs</i>, +or Flote-grass, in Linnæus's native country +of Smoland, is the <i>Sparganium</i> <i>n.</i> 345* of +<i>Fl. Lapp.</i>, in the second edition of which +work I have called it <i>S. natans</i>, on his own +authority in the <i>Flora Suecica</i> and <i>Species +Plantarum</i>; but in <i>English Botany,</i> <i>v.</i> 4. +273, and <i>Fl. Brit.</i> 962, this error is corrected, +so far at least as concerns the original +Lapland specimen, which is unquestionably +<i>S. simplex</i>, <i>Engl. Bot.</i> <i>v.</i> 11. +<i>t.</i> 745, a species he did not, in his works, +distinguish from our common <i>S. ramosum</i>, +<i>t.</i> 744. I am now persuaded he confounded +this <i>simplex</i> with the <i>natans</i> in his Lapland +tour, as well as in his herbarium,<!-- Page 127 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +where the original specimens of the two are +pinned together.)</p> + + +<h4><i>August.</i> 2</h4> + +<p>They dry their corn upon drying sheds +as is practised in Smoland. The cross +piece is turned towards the south, but the +method here differs from that of the Smolanders +in one respect. The latter place one +sheaf on the top of another, but the inhabitants +of Westbothnia lay the sheaves cross-wise, +in an alternate order, each thinking +their own method the best for procuring +the most complete ventilation. In this +country fifteen sheaves are lodged under +each shed, without supporters; but in Smoland +twelve only, ten of which are in the +main pile and two at the sides. The Smolanders +therefore are able to reach high +enough to place their uppermost sheaves by +hand, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia +find it necessary to be provided with what +they term a <i>Skyllkrok</i>, or Rick-hook, consisting +of a round pole, with a transverse<!-- Page 128 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-post +in England, as appears by the sketch +in the manuscript,) by means of which each +sheaf is lifted up.</p> + +<p>On a heath very near the river Sangis I +noticed some earth of a red colour. The +dry part of the forest which had been burnt +down, produced Reindeer-moss (<i>Lichen +rangiferinus</i>) in such abundance, that the +whole face of the ground was covered with +it.</p> + +<p>The evening was fine when I reached +Zangis (or Sangis), where I took leave of +my native tongue.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 3.</i></h4> + +<p>At sun-rise the marshes were all white +with hoar frost. In the preceding night +winter had paid his first visit, and slept in +the lap of the lovely Flora. I did not observe +that she had suffered from her rude +visitor, except with regard to the <i>Dracontium</i> +(<i>Calla palustris</i>), the leaves of which +assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest<!-- Page 129 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +in bloom at this place, are <i>Erica</i> (<i>vulgaris</i>), +the Red-flowered Persicaria (<i>Polygonum +Persicaria</i>), and <i>Hieracium præmorsum</i> +(<i>Leontodon autumnale</i>, <i>Sp. Pl.</i> 1123. +<i>Hedypnois autumnalis</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i> 826. +<i>Engl. Bot. t.</i> 830.)</p> + +<p>On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-tongue +behind me. At Saris I met with +native Finlanders only, whose language was +unintelligible to me.</p> + +<p>Here grew the <i>Masarooth</i> (<i>Selinum palustre</i>) +with a proliferous umbel.</p> + +<p>The mouse-traps used here are made +like those for catching squirrels; which I +have already described.</p> + +<p>Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tornea +are three ferries to pass. In my way I +noticed a new species of <i>Stellaria</i> (<i>Callitriche</i>), +of a small size, not leafy at the top, +erect, not creeping like the <i>S. minor</i>; (see +<i>Fl. Lapp. n.</i> 2. <i>var.</i> γ.) It had the appearance +of <i>Potamogeton graminifolium</i> +(<i>gramineum</i>). (What particular state or +appearance of the <i>Callitriche</i> this might be,<!-- Page 130 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +does not appear, nor is it mentioned in <i>Fl. +Lapp.</i>)</p> + +<p>I reached Tornea by three o'clock.</p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h3><a name="TORNEA" id="TORNEA"></a>TORNEA.</h3> + +<h4><i>August 4.</i></h4> + + +<p>A reindeer may be driven in a carriage +twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, or, at the +utmost, fifteen; but the animal is generally +killed immediately afterwards with the Laplanders' +spears, and eaten.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders are perhaps so called +from the (Swedish) word <i>lappa</i>, to sew or +patch together, because their garments +usually answer to that description.</p> + +<p>The degree of cold is certainly greater on +the alps than in less elevated regions; for +instance, it is colder in Jamtland than at +Tornea, though the former lies about one +hundred miles further south. Thus it +appears that the cause of the severity of +the cold does not depend so much on the +approach towards the pole, as on the ele<!-- Page 131 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>vation +of the ground, which ought to be +carefully observed. Hence the plants of +the north of Lapland are such only as are +capable of resisting the most severe and +long-continued cold, and hence snow lies +on the alps of Italy.</p> + +<p>Alpine plants are, for the most part, +perennial, except the Little Blue Centaury +(<i>Gentiana nivalis</i>), and perhaps the Single-flowered +<i>Lychnis</i> (<i>apetala</i>). I wish botanists +would endeavour to discover and make +known any new kinds of pulse or grain, especially +such as are of a hardy constitution, +and not likely to suffer from the severity of +winter. Some are perhaps to be found +among the grasses. It is necessary to ascertain +what degree of northern latitude +they would bear, and whether they are capable +of growing within the frigid zone. +It is worthy of inquiry in what respects +the Alps, properly so called (of Switzerland,) +agree with ours of Lapland, as well +as how far, and by what means, they are +susceptible of culture. The descriptions<!-- Page 132 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +that have been given of them may be consulted. +The Greenland alps would also be +worth examining, to see how far these different +countries agree in their native plants, +in varieties of situation, and in plenty of +soil, compared with the proportion of rocks +or large stones. Do they all agree in the +diminutive stature of their plants?</p> + +<p>The tranquil existence of the Laplanders +answers to Ovid's description of the golden +age, and to the pastoral state as depicted +by Virgil. It recalls the remembrance of +the patriarchal life, and the poetical descriptions +of the Elysian fields.</p> + +<p>So many Finlanders crowded about me, +that I scarcely knew what to do. They +were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to +be nearly blind. Many of them were perfectly +deprived of sight, and ninety-nine +out of a hundred that were so had their +eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe +any remedy for this evil, so long as its +cause is every where so prevalent. This +consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had<!-- Page 133 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> +the management of these Finlanders, I would +tie them up to the wall and give them fifteen +pair of lashes apiece till they made +chimneys to their huts, especially as they +have such plenty of fire-wood. This improvement +in the comfort of their dwellings +might surely be accomplished by the authority +of the chief magistrate, for I have +not been able to learn any sufficient reason +for their adherence to their old way of +building. If people thirty or forty years +of age are thus afflicted, what must become +of them by the time they are seventy?</p> + +<p>The Finlander's scythe is represented in +the annexed figure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 164px;"> +<a href="images/i_134.jpg"><img src="images/i_134_tn.jpg" width="164" height="400" +alt="Finlander's scythe; linked to larger image." +title="Finlander's scythe; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The handle is rather above two feet in +length, straight for about the space of a +foot from the part where the blade is +bound on. Afterwards it is slightly curved +outwards, and then again, towards the +apex, in some degree inwards so as to +make a straight line with the base. The +top is thicker than any other part. The +blade of the scythe is, like that used in our<!-- Page 135 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span><!-- Page 134 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a></span> +country, about a foot and a half long, +and an inch and half broad, very slightly +curved. Its back is, like that of our scythes, +thickened on one side. The mower takes +hold of the top with his left hand, so that +the back of the scythe is uppermost, but +grasps with his right the part where the +above-described curvature ends, so as to +be able to give the edge a turn upwards. +As he moves forward, he mows first on the +right, and then on the left, only turning +his hands, and not lifting the scythe, but +merely presenting each side of its blade +alternately to the ground.</p> + +<p>On the south-west side of the town, +across a small bay, lies a mineral spring. +The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is +one of the best mineral waters I have met +with in the north; but it lies very low, appearing +to derive its origin from a stream +that runs above, so that its water comes +out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and +is covered with scum.<!-- Page 136 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>August 5.</i></h4> + +<p>Every body at Tornea was continually +talking to me of a distemper to which their +horned cattle are subject, and which kills +many of them in the course of the winter, +but especially in the spring, when they lose +from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost +every year. On walking to examine +the meadow into which they are first turned +out to grass, I found it a bog or marsh, +where the Water Hemlock, <i>Cicuta aquatica</i>, +(<i>C. virosa</i>, <i>Sp. Pl.</i> 366. <i>Fl. Lapp. +n.</i> 103. <i>Engl. Bot. t.</i> 479.) grew in abundance, +and had evidently been cropped +plentifully by the animals in feeding. It +seemed probable therefore that they eat it +most in the spring, when first turned into +this pasture; whence it proves so much +more extensively fatal than in summer, +when perhaps they only pick up a plant +here and there. It grows in all the moist +meadows which are mown for hay; conse<!-- Page 137 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>quently +the cattle take it likewise in their +winter food, and therefore perish, more or +less, during that time of the year. We +learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave +it to various kinds of animals, what violent +symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing +appeared to me so interesting, during +my visit to Tornea, as to examine into the +cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas +be right, the whole might be prevented by +employing a woman for a month to eradicate +all the <i>Cicuta</i>; by which this town, +small as it is, might save above two hundred +silver dollars. I was informed that +the cattle dying from this cause become so +infectious, that they cannot be flayed without +great danger. The persons employed +in that business have their hands greatly +swelled by touching the carcase, and several +have lost their lives in consequence. +The plant in question, therefore, agrees in +qualities with the <i>Œnanthe</i>, as it does likewise +in place of growth and outward ap<!-- Page 138 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>pearance, +especially in the <i>pinnæ</i> of its +leaves.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> +<p><!-- Page 139 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span></p> +<p>The meadows hereabouts, among the +thickets towards the shore of the bay, afforded +me the following plants.</p> + +<p>1. <i>Veronica</i> (<i>maritima</i>), with an erect +stem, branched in the upper part, and<!-- Page 140 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves +acute, cordate-oblong, sharply serrated, the +upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, +or four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla +tubular, divided two thirds of its length +into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, +ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the +lower three-cleft, the middle segment narrowest, +but all of equal length. Stamens two, +very long, awlshaped, situated at the separation +of the two lips. Hence the flower is of +the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule +heartshaped, narrow at the upper edge. +The flowers are numerous in each spike.</p> + +<p>2. Selleri, (<i>Apium graveolens</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>,) unless<!-- Page 141 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +I am much mistaken. The petals are white, +spreading, and acute. The partial umbels +are broad. The general one has very rarely +one or two (leaves of an involucrum?).</p> + +<p>3. <i>Galium parisiense</i> (<i>uliginosum</i>), with +a square, furrowed, procumbent stem. The +leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the +extremity, acute, armed with little prickles +as well as the stem. The flower is not tubular, +nor the seeds prickly. The latter +are white, as is also the flower. Four +leaves grow together in the lower part of +the stem, but in the upper part six. Under +the little umbels of flowers are either four +or two.</p> + +<p>4. <i>Galium album</i> (<i>boreale</i>). Stem square, +erect, branched, especially in the upper +part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather +broader towards their base, three-nerved, +slightly reflexed at the margin. There are +two leaves to each of the lesser umbels. +Seeds two, roundish, joined into a didymous +shape, downy. Flower not tubular.</p> + +<p>5. <i>Cruciata</i>, if I am not mistaken. (<i>Galium +palustre</i>,<!-- Page 142 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> that is, <i>Cruciata palustris +alba</i> of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, +bluntish, narrower towards their +base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. See +what I gathered in the woody parts of +Lulean Lapland. (This was the same species, +as appears by the <i>Fl. Lapp.</i>)</p> + +<p>6. <i>Clymenum parisiense</i> (<i>Lathyrus palustris</i>). +Stem triangular, two of its angles +ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed +border. There are two little oblong +pointed angular leaflets at the insertion +of the leaves, which latter are pinnated, +ending in a tendril, and composed of two +or three pair of nearly lanceolate <i>pinnæ</i>. +The flowers are violet-coloured, three or +four on each common stalk.</p> + +<p>7. <i>Angelica tenuifolia</i> (<i>sylvestris</i>), which +I would define <i>A. umbellulis globosis</i>. The +general umbel, though often naked, is +commonly furnished with one, two, or as +far as five, very slender leaves; each partial +one has often as many as eight. It is curious +that when the plant blooms vigorously,<!-- Page 143 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +none of the stalks of the umbel can be +seen, but the flowers form a complete ball, +like the Double Guelder-rose (<i>Sambucus +Opulus</i>, <i>flore pleno</i>,) or the Globe Thistle +(<i>Echinops Sphærocephalus</i>). The petals are +lanceolate and spreading. Stem striated, +or slightly furrowed.</p> + +<p>8. <i>Cicuta aquatica</i> of Wepfer (<i>C. virosa</i> +above mentioned). I am disposed to refer +this plant to <i>Œnanthe</i>, on account of its +external aspect, which is wonderfully like +the last-mentioned genus. I must examine +whether their flowers agree. The footstalks +are hollow, inflated, and erect. <i>Pinnæ</i> three, +rarely four, pair, of a narrow lanceolate +shape. Those on the stem have from three +to seven serratures each, but the radical +ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes +the lowermost serrature, at the lower +edge, grows out into a sort of spurious +<i>pinnula</i>. The top of the stem bears from one +to three umbels; the general umbel being +naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary<!-- Page 144 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> +leaflet<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>. The partial ones have seven short, +narrow, acute leaflets. The tips of the petals +are inflexed.</p> + +<p>9. (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>. +Its capsules are rose-coloured, its flowers +yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, +and obtuse. The capsules are about equal +to the interstices of the spike, which all +together is about four inches long.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 6.</i></h4> + +<p>The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore +a day of recreation for both mind and +body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a +memorial of King Charles the XIth's own +observation of the sun on the 14th of June, +1694. The sun was visible on that night +till very near twelve, when a small cloud +hid it from the sight. It was however above<!-- Page 145 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +the horizon<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>. In winter the sun does not +rise above the horizon, but at the solstice +it becomes visible. Could it be seen from +the pole?</p> + +<p>The young women in Finland have much +more swelling bosoms than those of Lapland; +the latter accord best with the description +of the poet,</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"<i>Quales cruda viro puella servat.</i>"</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15em;">(<i>Mart.</i> lib. 8. ep. 63.)</span><br /> +<!-- Page 146 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>August 7.</i></h4> + +<p>The town of Tornea stands on a small +island, inhabited close to the shore on the +south-west side. I call it an island, because +it is bounded on the north by a +swamp; on the south-east by the great river +of Tornea; on the west and south-west +by an arm of the sea, like a large river in +appearance, but so shallow that no vessel +can approach within a mile of the town on +that side. This arm of the sea was formerly +the <i>king's road</i>, (a channel obliged +to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry +in summer time, on the north side, towards +the swamp.</p> + +<p>I ascended the steeple from whence his +majesty king Charles the Eleventh saw the +sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 8.</i></h4> + +<p>Nothing worth notice occurred.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 9.</i></h4> + +<p>Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi,<!-- Page 147 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +where is a large salmon fishery, for which +this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for +its meadows, and Storlionis for its cornfields, +but the last yield the greatest profit.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 10.</i></h4> + +<p>I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman +in Kimi till the 11th. This day I +gathered a sort of Pink, <i>Caryophyllus</i>, +with reflexed petals of a purplish colour, +divided into many segments almost to their +base. The claws, not contracted at the +summit, bear on the upper side, at the +bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This +was the beautiful and fragrant <i>Dianthus +superbus.</i>) Also a <i>Salix</i> with appendages +at the base of its leaves. (What species +this was, does not appear.) At the shore +of the great river grew <i>Alsine repens</i>, <i>foliis +gramineis</i>, (<i>Stellaria uliginosa</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i> +476. <i>Engl. Bot. t.</i> 1074.)</p> + +<p>Lying-in women at this place are accustomed +to drink brandy seasoned with +pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicat<!-- Page 148 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>ing +quality, by way of a narcotic, and +partly to bring on the labour pains. The +clergyman's wife told me an infallible method, +as she said, to prevent the pains +which often follow childbirth. When the +woman's first child is born, and the umbilical +cord divided, a spoonful of the blood +is given her to swallow. This is to be practised +at every succeeding labour, and I was +assured that each would be rendered more +easy, without any after pains.</p> + +<p>In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, +it is customary to have the dairy superintended +by a superior female servant, called +the <i>fäbodar</i>, who receives for each cow +one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides +a pound of <i>mesosmör</i>. (See <i>v.</i> 1. 197.)</p> + +<p>To obtain a greater quantity of butter, +the milk is set by, either in a cellar or in +a double-walled house, to be kept as cold +as possible, for at least two days, or so +long as that it will not stick to the finger. +The milk will not turn sour, but will become +very thin and blue, while the cream<!-- Page 149 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +collects on the top, of considerable thickness +and in great perfection. The cream +being taken off, and put into the churn, +often proves so rich, that after it has been +churned but a short time, if the churn be +laid on one side nothing will run out. It is +no small labour to churn such cream.</p> + +<p>Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being +warmed before it is coagulated. If the +milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do +for this purpose. Such thin milk as this is +not very fit for eating, but the whey which +separates from it in the making of cheese, is +by some people made into <i>syra</i>. (See <i>v.</i> 1. +243. <i>n.</i> 11.) This is done merely by putting +it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, +when, if set by for a considerable time, it +will become extremely tough. Most usually +however it is boiled, and then kept for +two or three days, when, some new milk +being added, it is boiled up again to the +consistence of flummery, and then set by +in some kind of vessel. If it remains for +a long while without being touched, it<!-- Page 150 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +grows hard, and becomes <i>mesosmör</i>. (<i>v.</i> 1. +243. <i>n.</i> 12.) The blue milk above mentioned +may be boiled like fresh milk, and +does not readily turn sour.</p> + +<p><i>Gos-mjölk</i>, or rather <i>Gäs-mjölk</i>, (from +the Swedish verb <i>gäsa</i>, to work or ferment,) +is made as follows. The butter-milk is set +by in a tub till it begins to ferment, when +about a third or fourth part of the quantity +of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed +to work once more. A serum by +this time is formed at the bottom, which +is drawn off by means of a cock or tap, in +the bottom of the tub, and used immediately +for food. A similar portion of fresh +milk is then put to the remainder, when +more whey is, in due time, deposited. This +practice is repeated from time to time for +the space of a fortnight, at the end of +which the milk in the tub becomes of a +thick consistence, and is excellent eating.</p> + +<p><i>Servet-mjölk</i> (Napkin Milk) is made by +taking a quantity of sour milk just beginning +to ferment, when bubbles, like hy<!-- Page 151 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>datids +as it were, are formed between the +cream and the milk. This is cut across in +various directions, and the thicker substance +taken off and hung up in a napkin, +that the liquid part may drain away. What +remains in the napkin acquires a firm consistence, +and is eaten along with fresh +sweet cream.</p> + + +<h3><a name="EAST_BOTHLAND" id="EAST_BOTHLAND"></a>EAST BOTHLAND.</h3> + +<h4><i>August 11.</i></h4> + +<p>I departed from the house of the chief +clergyman of Kimi, whose name is Forbus +or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian.</p> + +<p>Here I observed the <i>Lumme</i> of Wormius, +(<i>Colymbus arcticus</i>; see <i>v.</i> 1. 27.) Its +outermost toes were largest, and most +naked; the next, or middlemost, smaller; +the thumb, or inner most, very small.</p> + +<p>A skin of a squirrel, that had been +caught in winter, was white towards the +end of the rump, as were also the outermost +toes, and the ears.<!-- Page 152 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p> + +<p>In my journey this day I met with the +<i>Stratiotes</i> (<i>aloides</i>), and the <i>Butomus</i> (<i>umbellatus</i>); +as well as the <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus +suecica</i>), the spotted <i>Palma Christi</i> (<i>Orchis +maculata</i>), and the <i>Gnidium</i>. (This last could +be no other than the Mezereon, <i>Daphne +Mezereum</i>, formerly called <i>Coccognidium</i>.)</p> + +<p>I found also the Ladies' Slipper (<i>Cypripedium +Calceolus</i>), but it was almost out +of flower.</p> + +<p>The calyx consists of four long, coloured, +lanceolate leaves, two of which, the +upper and lower, are longer and broader +than the two lateral ones. Petals two, the +uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing +the anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost +inflated, obtuse, about an inch long. +Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of +one cell, oval, with three principal and +three smaller angles, splitting laterally into +three valves, having a central column between +them. The seeds adhere longitudinally +to the middle of the placenta (or<!-- Page 153 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +receptacle). The herb has the aspect of +<i>Veratrum</i>.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 12.</i></h4> + +<p>The forests hereabouts are composed of +Birch and Spruce fir mixed with Pine (<i>Pinus +sylvestris</i>), and a little Juniper (<i>Juniperus +communis</i>). The herbaceous plants grow +luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a remarkable +height. Berries of the Wild +Vine (<i>Rubus saxatilis</i>), the <i>Vaccinium</i> +(Whortleberry), <i>Mesomora</i> (<i>Cornus suecica</i>), +<i>Empetrum</i> (Crow or Crake-berry), and +(<i>Rubus</i>) <i>Chamæmorus</i>, are here in abundance. +The (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i> +presents itself every where in the +highway.</p> + +<p>The pales, with which the fields are +fenced off, are placed horizontally against +upright posts.</p> + +<p>The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are +called <i>Pyrter</i> in this part of the country. +In these there is no proper fire-place, but +the whole is an oven, as it were, consisting +of the four walls of the house, with a flat<!-- Page 154 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of +chimney, but not partially covered by any +kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, +(see <i>vol.</i> 1. 357,) so that when the fire, +made on a hearth under this opening, is +very smoky, it might be entirely opened +to let out the smoke. There is indeed a +sort of wooden window in the roof, but it +is rarely opened. The people think themselves +the warmer because the smoke can +escape by the door only, and are persuaded +that they should be frozen to death +if they had a chimney; which opinion seems +to me altogether absurd. Would it not be +better to have chimneys, with a moderate +degree of warmth, than a heat like that of +a bagnio, with blind and sore eyes, and a +black sooty house? They lie on the floor +in the midst of this smoke, and that is their +only bed. Notwithstanding their opinion, +I cannot help thinking that full as much +cold air enters by the door, as there could +by a chimney. They are so anxious to +keep themselves warm, that they do not<!-- Page 155 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +venture to have any windows, only shutters +in their stead; indeed they seem to be as +fond of darkness as owls. I peeped into +one of these houses through a shutter, and +within was perfect darkness. Nevertheless +there were several children and other persons +in the dwelling. I could distinguish +nothing but what seemed to me a pair of +glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort +of large jug. On looking more attentively, +I perceived that the object before me was +actually a jug or pot, in which I had already +remarked that they were accustomed +to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to +their neighbours.</p> + +<p>I am sure the peasants of Smoland often +make a fire sufficient to roast them alive, +though their houses are furnished with +chimneys, and their fires are made, as at +this place, with small pieces of wood. To +say the truth, few persons can be of opinion +that such excessive heat, in the winter +of this very severe climate, can be wholesome.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned that the inha<!-- Page 156 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>bitants +of these smoky dwellings have no +beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In +the summer season, however, they generally +sleep in their barns. Round the inside +of the above-described hut or cottage, +are ranged various tubs or wooden vessels. +In one corner, opposite to the spot where +the fire is made, stands a table.</p> + +<p>As it would be impossible to bear a fire +in these dwellings during the heats of summer, +their owners have another building +which serves them for a kitchen. This is +almost of the shape of the Laplanders' +huts, but double their width and height, +consisting of cloven beams or posts, such +as are used for the fences of the fields, only +not covered in, like the dwellings of the +Laplanders. In the centre, where all the +posts meet at the top, the pot is suspended +over the fire. Here they boil their provisions, +distil brandy, &c.</p> + +<p>The stage-houses<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> are constructed like +those seen at some posthouses in our part<!-- Page 157 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +of the country, having the centre of the +roof raised on longitudinal timbers. They +are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls +curve outwards towards the top.</p> + +<p>This year the crops of corn proved very +bad in this neighbourhood, so that the +inhabitants were obliged to chop their +chaff, with the upper part of the straw, +as fine as possible, of which, when ground, +they made bread. Others preferred the +bark of Pine-trees (<i>Pinus sylvestris</i>) for +this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in +the autumn, were at this time quite green. +The winter rye, sown last year, was not +yet cut. The sheaves are not laid upon +any stage, or under any cover, but are +placed ten together in a heap, standing +nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf being +laid across, so as to shelter the others. +They are afterwards carried into the kilns, +which at this place have exactly the appearance +of bagnios, with ovens built of +boulder stones.</p> + +<p>The fastenings of the doors are quite dif<!-- Page 158 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>ferent +here from those used in Smoland, +which are fixed into the floor, and capable +of being raised or depressed at pleasure. +The fastening here is a kind of long button +upon the door, on the side where the hinges +are fixed, which being turned horizontally +over the door-post, prevents the opening of +the door.</p> + +<p>By the road side grew an <i>Amanita</i> +(Agaric) with a stalk two inches high, and +as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was +hemispherical; pale above; concave beneath, +with loose gills. (Probably <i>Agaricus +n.</i> 499. <i>Fl. Lapp. ed.</i> 2. 373. <i>Fl. Suec. +n.</i> 1217. <i>ed.</i> 2. 446.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_159.jpg"><img src="images/i_159_tn.jpg" width="400" height="142" +alt="Style of scythe in East Bothland; linked to larger image." +title="Style of scythe in East Bothland; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The scythes used in this country nearly +resemble those of the Norwegians, but differ +in this respect, that the upper projection +from the handle stands out horizontally, +see figure e, b, while the lower, c, is perpendicular, +and the top, a, which rests +against the arm, is flattened. The mower +is therefore obliged to take hold of the +foremost projection, with his left hand,<!-- Page 160 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span><!-- Page 159 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a></span> +under the main handle. The advantage of +this is, that he is able to move forward in a +nearly upright posture. The Norwegian +however walks still more erect in mowing. +The proportions of this Kimi scythe are as +follows: From a to b one foot and a half; +b to c two palms and a half; c to d two +feet; the breadth at b two inches in a right +line. The length of the projection b is +three inches; and of c the same. The blade +is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an +acute angle with the handle.</p> + +<p>The harrow consists of four or five links, +in each of which are twelve joints. These +have alternately one and two projecting +pieces each. (See the figure annexed to +the scythe just described, <i>p.</i> <a href="#Page_159">159</a>)</p> + +<p>In the stage-houses (see <i>p.</i> <a href="#Page_156">156</a>,) boilers +are fixed in the walls, for boiling horse-dung, +which is given as food to the cattle; +as well as to heat water for pouring on reindeer +moss (<i>Lichen rangiferinus</i>), which is +also used for the same purpose; but such +diet gives a loathsome taste to their milk.<!-- Page 161 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +In the roof of these houses hams and salmon +are smoke-dried.</p> + +<p>During the winter the people are obliged +to work in their miserable cabins or <i>Pyrter</i>, +when they open their shutters; but +nevertheless find themselves sufficiently +warm.</p> + +<p>The annexed cut represents a sort of +plough, used at Kimi.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 253px;"> +<a href="images/i_162.jpg"><img src="images/i_162_tn.jpg" width="253" height="400" +alt="Plough used at Kimi; linked to larger image." +title="Plough used at Kimi; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>a, the base, is three palms long and one +broad.</p> + +<p>b, b, handles, each a palm in length.</p> + +<p>c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round +figure.</p> + +<p>e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached +to the collar or yoke. The distance +betwixt e and e is three feet.</p> + +<p>f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage.</p> + +<p>g, m, the base of the plough-share, three +feet in length, and two palms and a half +broad.</p> + +<p>h, h, points of the share, five palms long; +distant at their base one foot three inches, +at their extremities two feet.<!-- Page 163 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span><!-- Page 162 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> + +<p>i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring +that embraces the base of each point of +the share, into which chain, at k, is introduced +the handle l; this acts so as to +bring the points together rather than to +separate them.</p></div> + +<p>It must be observed that the inner edge +of these points is turned downward, so +that when the handle or <i>spatula</i> l is put in +at k, and is laid upon one of them, the +earth is thrown on one side, and this is +done alternately with the two points. The +part m is slightly curved, as well as the +points proceeding from it. When it is intended +to make a deep trench, as in cutting +through turf in the marshes, l is laid +parallel to m, while the rings at f, f, as well +as at i, i, prevent the plough-share from +going too far downward.</p> + +<p>No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all +the ground being turned over with the +spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except +in the fields where rye is sown, and<!-- Page 164 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +these are ploughed with the plough just +described.</p> + +<p>It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish +out a table with five or six plates, and +as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only +one or two persons are expected to dinner. +There is at the post-house a free table (or +ordinary).</p> + +<p>In the land belonging to the clergyman +of Kimi, I found the (<i>Lythrum</i>) <i>Salicaria</i> +with a very unusual aspect, having alternate +leaves, and a solitary flower in the +bosom of each. (The original specimens in +the Linnæan herbarium have two or more +flowers to the upper leaves.)</p> + +<p>My intention was to have extended my +journey into the province of East Bothnia; +but on applying at the post-house, I could +neither procure a horse, nor any thing to +eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or +would not, understand me. I therefore +took leave of them the same day I arrived, +and turned my steps backward.<!-- Page 165 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Finlanders in East Bothland are +dressed very much like the Laplanders, +and therefore agree with them in general +appearance. Their dress is the same with +respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, +their breeches reaching down to the feet, +their half-boots, their belt into which they +stick their knife, and the use of hooks and +eyes upon their clothes instead of buttons. +But they differ in not having a high collar, +and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as +well as in having their coat open before. +They stick nothing into their girdle but a +knife, though some people carry a key at +the end of it. Their breeches are tied +round the knees.</p> + +<p>At church I observed some men with a +girdle of black list, just as it was rent from +the cloth, wound two or three times round +the waist, which formed a contrast with +their grey jackets. The women however +dress in articles purchased from other countries, +and make quite a different appearance +from the Lapland females.<!-- Page 166 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> + +<p>East Bothnia, being a low country, +abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. The +grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency +of hay, that they buy up horse-dung +at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in +the boilers built up in some of their houses; +in which also they boil water to pour over +the reindeer moss.</p> + +<p>The bread used by the inhabitants of +this country in the present season of scarcity +was made principally of chaff cut fine +and ground.</p> + +<p>The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, +had already sprung up, and made +the fields quite green.</p> + +<p>I returned back to Tornea in the evening.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 13.</i></h4> + +<p>This being a fast day, I heard a sermon +in the Finnish tongue, preached at the +church of Tornea. A lawful wife was +churched, after her lying-in; which ceremony +was performed in the choir, near the +elevated part. The women in general had +either naturally white hair, or hair that<!-- Page 167 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +had once been brown, now turned grey. +Very few had it red. They wear their hair +rather straight.</p> + +<p>The physiognomy of both men and women +is phlegmatic and stupid; the body +clumsy, the complexion bad, and the features +destitute of all delicacy of form or +expression.</p> + +<p>The boundary between West Bothnia +and East Bothnia is not formed by the +river of Kimi, but by another smaller +stream, not far distant, on the left.</p> + +<p>They catch <i>Sijk</i> (<i>Salmo Lavaretus</i>) in a +curious manner at this place. These fish, +like the common salmon, swim against the +stream, and for that reason are to be caught +only near large falls of the river, which +they are unable to ascend. The fisherman, +being furnished with a net fixed at the end +of a long pole, strips himself naked up to +the waist, and walks into the middle of the +strongest cascade. To prevent accidents +from the force of the water, a rope is often +tied round his waist, the other end of<!-- Page 168 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> +which is held fast by a friend on shore. +Thus they catch the fish below the fall.</p> + +<p>Seals are taken by various means, being +either shot with fire-arms, or caught in a +net. The latter, three or four fathoms +high, is made of hempen cord, as thick as +a goose-quill, each mesh being two spans +wide. This net is kept upright in the water +by means of oblong floats of wood, and +has no stones at the bottom. Four or five +such nets are frequently tied to the ends of +each other, and a large stone is attached +to the last, bound about with willow or +osier, which serves to keep the nets steady. +These are set in places where the seals are +known to hide themselves, for those animals +do the fishermen great damage, not +only by devouring fish, but by tearing the +fishing nets, from the destruction of which +the haunts of the seals are discovered. +When a seal comes in the way of the above-described +nets, he either thrusts his head +between the meshes, getting more and +more entangled the more he pushes for<!-- Page 169 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>ward, +or, as often happens, he is caught +by the foot.</p> + +<p>On a sand-hill near the church at Tornea, +grew, in great abundance, <i>Gramen +spicâ triticeâ maritimum</i>, (<i>Triticum radice +repente</i>, <i>foliis rigidis</i>; <i>Fl. Lapp. n.</i> 34, +which, in the second edition of that work, +p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my intelligent +friend Dr. Afzelius, referred to +<i>Elymus arenarius</i>, and what Linnæus here +says, confirms this determination.) Its blue +leaves looked quite different from all others, +and very handsome. I picked some seeds +from the spikes, which were as large as +grains of rye. Hence I was induced to +consider whether this plant might not serve +as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such +dry and blowing sands, provided the proper +method of managing it could be discovered, +which surely would not be a very +difficult task. The advantage of this would +be that, by such means, many sandy tracts, +where nothing else will grow, might be +turned to advantage; and the perennial<!-- Page 170 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> +roots, which no other corn has, would of +course save the trouble of sowing it annually. +Perhaps even these roots themselves +might, in hard times, serve for food.</p> + +<p>The tall Finlander Daniel Cajanus, at +Stockholm, born in this part of East Bothland, +was the son of a clergyman. At his +birth he was no bigger than the generality +of children, and his health was very indifferent, +particularly with regard to his chest, +till the age of twelve or fifteen years.</p> + +<p>I was informed that the inhabitants of +this neighbourhood often hear thunder in +the alps during winter.</p> + +<p>In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by +a south wind, and mild weather comes +from the north, because of the sea.</p> + +<p>The Laplanders consult several natural +objects by way of compass as they travel.</p> + +<p>1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more +copious branches on their southern side +than towards the north.</p> + +<p>2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which +bear grass, the northern whortle-berries.<!-- Page 171 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p> + +<p>3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on +the north side, smooth on the opposite +part.</p> + +<p>4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on +the north side, with the black <i>Usnea</i>, or +filamentous <i>Lichen</i> (<i>L. jubatus</i>).</p> + +<p>By such marks as these they are able to +find their way through pathless forests. +Have we any guides so certain?</p> + +<p>When these people kill any wild reindeer +with fire-arms in summer, they lodge +the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up +as they want it for provision.</p> + +<p>I observed a curious kind of lime-stone +burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other places +round the neighbouring sea-coast.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 14.</i></h4> + +<p>A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjortot +has been assayed by the Mineral Board, +and found to contain forty <i>per cent.</i> lead, +but only three or four of silver.<!-- Page 172 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>August 15.</i></h4> + +<p>Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up +the Fresh-water Sponge, <i>Spongia lacustris</i> +of Newton, (<i>S. lacustris</i>; <i>Syst. Nat. v.</i> 1. +1299. Linnæus here refers to Mr. Newton, +the friend of Ray, who found the +Sponge in question in the Norwich river, +where it still exists. It is however denominated +in Ray's <i>Synopsis</i>, <i>S. ramosa fluviatilis</i>, +not <i>lacustris</i>. Linnæus quoted +from memory.)</p> + + +<h4><i>August 16.</i></h4> + +<p>In dissecting the flower of <i>Artemisia</i> +(<i>vulgaris</i>), I was struck with its very curious +conformation. (This alludes to the +want of a limb to the corolla of the female +or marginal florets. See <i>Fl. Lapp. ed.</i> 2. +244.)</p> + + +<h4><i>August 17.</i></h4> + +<p>I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The +wind proved contrary. The islands abounded +with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of<!-- Page 173 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +<i>Rubus saxatilis</i>. On one called Korsholm +I met with a sort of <i>Behen</i>. Can it be the +same with that which grows in cornfields? +Their different parts are tolerably alike. +This grew among the pebbles of the beach. +Its calyx is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem +erect. Fruit of one cell. In other respects +it resembles <i>Behen</i>. (This was <i>Cucubalus</i> +(<i>Behen</i>) variety the third, or γ, <i>Fl. Lapp. +n.</i> 180. <i>ed.</i> 2. 149. <i>Silene maritima</i>, <i>Fl. +Brit.</i> 468. <i>Engl. Bot. t.</i> 957. We have +found it remain for many years unchanged +in a garden, propagating itself by seed, +though Linnæus reports that the third year +he could not distinguish his from our common +<i>Silene inflata</i>, his <i>Cucubalus Behen</i>.)</p> + + +<h4><a name="OECONOMICAL_REMARKS" id="OECONOMICAL_REMARKS"></a>ŒCONOMICAL REMARKS<br /> +<span class="smcap">concerning</span><br /> +THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA.</h4> + +<p>The soil is various, sometimes clay, +sometimes sand. The corn-fields are sown +every other year, and lie fallow the intermediate +seasons, half of each field lying<!-- Page 174 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +fallow, while the other half is cultivated. +The former is ploughed during the whole +summer, to prevent the growth of grass or +weeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is +sown in these open fields only. Rye is cultivated +on land that has recently been +cleared of its wood by burning, but not in +any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are +sown together in one crop, and not, as +usual in other places, Turnips one year +and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved +to treat visitors. Barley bread is of three +different qualities; 1. made of the unmixed +barley; 2. of a mixture of barley +and chaff; 3. of chaff without any addition, +except now and then a handfull or +two of barley. This last is their <i>Spis-bröd</i>, +or household-bread.</p> + +<p>The plough is of the same construction +as that used in Westbothland.</p> + +<p>Almost every person, except such as are +very poor, catches as many of the small +kind of Herrings, called <i>Strœmming</i> (<i>Clupea +Harengus</i> β, <i>Membras</i> of old authors,) as<!-- Page 175 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> +are necessary for the support of his family. +Those who are not otherwise employed in +spring and autumn, catch them for sale +afterwards to such as have not time to take +any for themselves. These fish begin to +spawn about the 18th of May, and continue +till about the 16th of June. After +the latter period they go into the small inlets +among the rocks, and are taken by +means of large nets till St. Peter's day, +June 29th. This is called the large Strœmming +fishery. From St. Peter's day till St. +Bartholomew's (Aug. 24th), or even later, +they are taken likewise with nets in their +usual haunts. These fish are found with +milt as well as roe throughout the summer.</p> + +<p>One barrel of sour Strœmming is as valuable +as two of the salted sort, the former +being greatly preferred. A peasant whose +family consists of a dozen people, takes +half a barrel of salt Strœmming for his +whole supply, and this is used to make a +kind of soup when boiled with turnips; but +he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour<!-- Page 176 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> +Strœmming, which is eaten without any +preparation, like smoked and salted meat. +If the director of the family is a good œconomist, +he will never allow it to be boiled +or roasted. They let the fish which is to +make sour Strœmming lie for three or four +hours only before they take out the entrails, +after which it is washed in a small coarse +sieve, till most of the blood is removed. +It is then salted, in the proportion of +thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each barrel +of fish. The fish destined to make salt +Strœmming must be much more carefully +washed, for if the least drop of blood remains +it will turn sour. Every barrel of +this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt +which is disposed in layers, alternately +with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and +salt are rubbed together with the hands, +till a sort of scum rises on the top.</p> + +<p>Another way of preparing salt Strœmming +is to make so strong a brine that the +entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not +sink. They put in only so many of the<!-- Page 177 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +fish as can readily be stirred about in the +brine. If the tub be so full that the brine +does not entirely cover the Strœmming, +more is added, and the whole is suffered to +remain for some days. The fish is afterwards +gutted in the following manner. A +person puts ten or twelve of them on the +thumb of his left hand, in such a manner +that the back of each fish is turned towards +the palm. He then very dexterously +loosens the gills with his right hand, +pinching out the gills and intestines at +once; which is performed with great quickness. +The fish are then put into a rope +basket, and salted as before. When they +have remained thus for a couple of days, +they are put into other baskets, in order +that the brine may drain away, and finally +are packed up in new kegs for keeping, +without any further salting. A hole is +bored in each tub, just above the lowermost +hoop, to draw off the brine, which is +always collecting from the fish, and if permitted +to remain, will cause the whole to<!-- Page 178 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +turn sour; but the same method is not +practised for the sour Strœmming. This +last is in its greatest perfection about St. +James's day (July 25th).</p> + +<p>These people have three meals a day in +summer, besides breakfast, and the sour +Strœmming always makes a part of their +dinner, as well as of the preceding refreshment. +The fish, after being repeatedly +squeezed, is laid between two slices of +bread, and so eaten. After it they take +some sour preparation of milk, without +cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit +of cheese, or bread and butter; but they +never eat meat after the sour Strœmming. +Their vegetable food consists of cabbage, +pease, or turnips, the first being generally +eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten once +a week, except when the cabbage is deficient, +and then they supply its place. +Turnips and salt Strœmming are generally +eaten in a morning, in the following manner. +When the turnips are boiled nearly +enough, the fish is put to them, but not<!-- Page 179 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> +before, lest it should be broken to pieces. +To this some flour is added; and they +drink sour milk after it. Their supper +always consists of flummery, made of barley-meal. +Before they first go out in a +morning they eat either bread and butter, +or bread and cheese, but they prefer the +former. The mixed bread (made of corn +and chaff) is their ordinary portion; good +bread, made entirely of corn, they seldom +or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or +for very extraordinary occasions. Their +mixed or household bread, being baked in +cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying +four or five such cakes together upon each +other. They are never unprovided with ale +in their cellars, to treat visitors, though their +ordinary drink is table beer. In summer +time they always drink <i>Syra</i>, (see <i>vol.</i> i. +<i>p.</i> 243.)</p> + +<p>The peasants themselves eat but very +little of their own mutton, and chiefly the +shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell; +scarcely any is kept in the house but the<!-- Page 180 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +above parts, with the marrow-bones, which +they break to get at the marrow. The +heads and feet of sheep, goats, and hogs, +are salted and dried, being, when wanted, +boiled with pease, and not ill-tasted. The +legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often +boiled fresh; the fat which floats on the top +being collected and preserved in a horn or +pot, as very useful to grease small ropes, +and wheels. The legs and feet thus boiled +are afterwards thrown away, not eaten. +The head and feet of a calf are usually +pickled.</p> + +<p>For fire-wood these people use birch-wood. +They burn no candles in their +houses. They go to smoke themselves +with the Finlanders in their huts.</p> + +<p>The hay is mown here in the same manner +as in Upland, and the corn is managed +in the same way as in Smoland. When the +season is dry, they prefer drying the corn +in heaps in the open air, as before described; +but in wet weather they have recourse +to sheds. The hay is spread out<!-- Page 181 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +till dry, and afterwards carried, without +being made into cocks.</p> + +<p>They raise as many hops as are wanted +for each family, and have perhaps a few +pounds over, for sale.</p> + +<p>Their pales are high, made of pine-wood, +and placed sloping.</p> + +<p>The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs +made of alder wood, by which they obtain +a great proportion of cream, even two fingers' +thick. This cream is stirred up with +the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for +making cheese. Another mode is with butter-milk, +to which they add a sixth part of +fresh milk, that has stood one day and +been skimmed. This mixture, being first +warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese +thus made is preferred to the former, and +often eaten in preference to butter.</p> + +<p>Between Midsummer and St. James's day +(July 25th), the whey is collected, after the +cheese is made; which, after boiling for +some hours, is set by to cool. When cold, +it is barrelled up for winter use. Poor<!-- Page 182 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +people and old women beg or buy it, a +small bottle-full at a time. To one pot of +sour milk they add a fourth part of <i>Syra</i>; +and these together have the taste of what +they term <i>Filbunke</i>, which is sour milk +with the cream on, just beginning to ferment, +and of which they make <i>Servet-mjölk</i>; +(see p. <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.)</p> + +<p>Thick milk (perhaps <i>Mesosmör</i>, see <i>vol.</i> i. +<i>p.</i> 243,) is often kept in barrels till winter, +as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both +serve for winter provision.</p> + +<p><i>Syra</i> is so very sour as not to be eatable +by itself. When they have no milk to dilute +it with, they add an equal quantity of +water to the <i>Syra</i>, and mix the whole with +flummery, which mixture they prefer to +small beer.</p> + +<p>Butter is now and then made of goat's +milk; but it is very strong, and quite as +white as that made of the milk of the +rein-deer.<!-- Page 183 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>August 18.</i></h4> + +<p>On islands near the shore I saw a <i>Salix</i> +with leaves like the cultivated olive. It is +a shrub three feet high, but growing in a +spreading manner. Stem grey, with roundish +dusky solitary buds, of a very large size, in +proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually +larger (upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, bluntish, +on scarcely perceptible footstalks, furnished +with an obtuse longitudinal rib beneath, +but no veins. Their upper surface +is green, sprinkled all over with minute +white dots; very slightly channelled, and +paler, along the nerve. (This appears to +have been <i>S. rosmarinifolia</i>.)</p> + + +<h4><i>August 19.</i></h4> + +<p>At the fair of Calix I obtained some information +concerning the commerce of this +country, which is very different from that +of almost every place in the world besides, +insomuch that I am unable to determine +which party makes his market of the other.<!-- Page 184 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +The townsman thinks it is himself who +cheats the peasant, but I verily believe he +is the party who is cheated.</p> + +<p>1. The general plan of traffic here is +bartering one article for another.</p> + +<p>2. The merchant generally carries his +goods home to the peasant's residence in +the country, at whatever distance it may +be, or else conveys them to the fair, from +whence the purchaser is to fetch them.</p> + +<p>3. When a townsman sets up trade as a +merchant, his principal aim is to get as +many country-people to connect themselves +with him as possible, who are to supply him +with their produce. These are termed +<i>Gield-bonder</i>, or creditors.</p> + +<p>4. The advantage the peasants have in +thus confiding to the merchant the whole +of their goods, is, that the latter pays their +taxes for them to the collector, which must +be done either in ready money, or bills of +exchange.</p> + +<p>5. When the merchant receives the goods +from the countryman, no price is fixed upon<!-- Page 185 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> +them between the parties; but when the +former returns from Stockholm, he sets +down in his accompt-book nearly the sum +for which he has disposed of the articles +there. In this the peasant trusts to the +honour of the merchant, and is paid accordingly.</p> + +<p>6. These prices are not communicated +to the countryman immediately, nor does +he know the price of the salt, tobacco, +corn, and other articles, with which the +merchant supplies him in return, till they +settle accompts; which does not take place +till the end of every year, or perhaps not so +frequently.</p> + +<p>7. As long as a peasant keeps to one +merchant, he is allowed credit, and obtains +advances of any money for which he may +have occasion, even although the goods delivered +do not amount to the interest of the +sum lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000 +dollars. But if he carries any of his goods +to another merchant, he must immediately +pay what he owes to his original correspon<!-- Page 186 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>dent, +or suffer a sequestration of his property.</p> + +<p>8. The countryman never brings his +own goods to market, unless he happens +to be going that way, in which case he +usually takes them with him, but otherwise +it is expected the merchant should fetch +them.</p> + +<p>9. When the towns of this part of the +country were first built, each had certain +parishes appropriated to it, and these were +called the trading district of each town, in +which no person who did not belong to the +town had a right to trade. These exclusive +privileges were subsequently annulled +by royal authority, and free markets were +established, where strangers as well as the +neighbouring inhabitants were equally permitted +to trade. This open trade has not +however taken place at Calix, partly because +the peasants are situated at so great +a distance from one another, and partly +because the merchants in the town conceive +that such a plan would ruin them,<!-- Page 187 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +they being in that case obliged to buy and +sell for ready money.</p> + +<p>10. Here are no free markets, properly +speaking, but only <i>Upbördsmoten</i> (periodical +meetings of the collectors of the revenues +with the peasants). At these times +the townsmen and the peasants meet together +at the place of rendezvous, as at Calix +every year on the 19th of August, and at +Tornea in the depth of winter.</p> + +<p>The inconveniences of the above plan of +trade are,</p> + +<p>1. The merchant lays considerable sums +fast, with which he might otherwise extend +his commerce.</p> + +<p>2. He has the trouble of carrying his +goods to the house of the peasant, where-ever +it may be, up the country, and of +bringing what he takes in exchange from +the place of rendezvous to his own house in +town.</p> + +<p>3. The consequence of such a plan is, +that many a merchant has outstanding +debts to the amount of 100,000 dollars,<!-- Page 188 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +the greater part of which he may never +get paid.</p> + +<p>The inconveniences to the countryman +are,</p> + +<p>1. He runs in debt more than he can +ever pay.</p> + +<p>2. The merchant has the advantage of +fixing what price he chooses on his goods.</p> + +<p>3. He is not allowed to take any measures +for his own profit.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>The collar of the shirts, worn by the inhabitants +of Finland and East Bothland +in this neighbourhood, resembles ours, +their sleeves being more like those of a +woman's shift.</p> + +<p>Young women here commonly wear the +bosom open, and have nothing over their +shift, which is gathered round the waist +like a petticoat.</p> + +<p>The country of East Bothland is chiefly +inhabited about the sea-coast, and on the +banks of rivers.</p> + +<p>An Aurora borealis was seen in the night<!-- Page 189 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> +of the 18th of August, and had been visible +for a week past, so early does it begin here.</p> + +<p>The rowers of the boat in which I pursued +my progress had blisters on their hands +caused by pulling at the oars. Their specific +was the ladle with which they had just +been stirring the pot where fish was boiling. +This they applied, hot as it was, to +the part affected, and the blisters disappeared.</p> + +<p>What is here called <i>Taim</i> is a sort of +salmon, two spans in length at most, the +tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked, +but otherwise like the common kind. (This +is probably the <i>Salmo salar</i> in a young +state; and may perhaps be the <i>Laxunge</i>, +or <i>Salmo minor</i>, <i>vulgari similis</i>, Artedi +Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in <i>Fauna +Suecica</i>, ed. 2. 122, though Linnæus has +no allusion there to the <i>Taim</i>.)</p> + +<p>As soon as the corn is carried from the +field, it is usual to thrash it slightly, that +whatever is loose may come away, and +not be lost in the barn, as also that the<!-- Page 190 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> +coarser part may be separated from the +finer.</p> + +<p>The flail is about a yard long, and rather +thick.</p> + +<p>The roofs in this part of the country are +made of the bark of birch-trees, not covered +over with any turf, but held fast by +round poles, as thick as one's arm, whose +upper extremities, alternately longer and +shorter, reach to the ridge, and being +bored through, are fastened to it, in such +a manner that their ends project about a +span each way beyond the ridge, crossing +each other. Being thicker at their lower +ends, they lie almost close together. Within +this there is often a false roof, like a cieling, +covered over with birch-bark and earth; +but this is only when the house is wished +to be very warm.</p> + +<p>At the residence of the Governor of the +Province at Calix, I saw three swans, which, +having been taken when young, were as +tame as domestic geese, to which these +birds are so much alike in every respect,<!-- Page 191 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> +that I can have no doubt of their belonging +to one genus. Their bill is flat, and +black at the extremity, as well as the +margins, convex and somewhat angular in the +middle, so far at least that the swelling +part terminates in an angle. The middle +is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are situated; +the base flat or quadrangular, with +two sinuses pointing upwards, and pale-coloured. +The margin is toothed just like the +<i>Concha Veneris</i> (<i>Cypræa</i>).</p> + +<p>A carriage called <i>Stotting</i> is used here, +for bringing home wood for fuel in winter, +over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-wood, +and resembles a sledge.</p> + +<p>The length of this machine from a to b +is three feet and a half, the breadth of each +beam four inches and a half; their thickness +two inches, except in the middle, at d, +where it is three inches and a half, though +in all the other parts of equal dimensions. +The transverse bar, c, is one foot and a half +long, three inches and a half broad, and is +elevated four inches above the longitudinal<!-- Page 192 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +pieces. e, e, are two slender triangular +pieces, two feet in length, and two inches +in thickness. f, f, are about one palm and +a half each in length and breadth. h is +curved upwards about two palms and a +half out of the straight line. g is two feet +long between the main beams, three inches +and a half broad, but scarcely one in +thickness.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 211px;"> +<a href="images/i_192.jpg"><img src="images/i_192_tn.jpg" width="211" height="400" +alt="Diagram of a Stotting, a kind of wood-sledge; linked to larger image." +title="Diagram of a Stotting, a kind of wood-sledge; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 193 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span></p> + +<p>The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from +the common ones in being broader, and in +the elevation or thickness of each at d. +The transverse beam c, on which the load +is laid, is bored through at each end, to receive +the supporting pieces. The slender +bars e, e, which may be termed clavicles, +are broadest in the fore part, where they +also are bored through, and fastened with +pegs, serving to give stability to the cross +beam c. Two of these carriages are tied +together, one behind the other, through the +hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i, +is made of birchen twigs.</p> + +<p>At Calix I found the <i>Hippuris</i> (<i>vulgaris</i>) +with forked branches; <i>Pentaphylloides +facie fragariæ</i>, (<i>Potentilla rupestris</i>?); +and <i>Eruca foliis sinapeos</i>. (What this was +does not appear.)</p> + +<p>I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Calix +and Tornea.<!-- Page 194 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_194.jpg"><img src="images/i_194_tn.jpg" width="400" height="285" +alt="Kind of scythe used at Cronby in East Bothland; linked to larger image." +title="Kind of scythe used at Cronby in East Bothland; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 195 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> + +<p>The scythe which serves at Cronby in +East Bothland, for mowing barley, is made +exactly like the common one of the Finlanders, +with the foremost handle underneath, +but, that nothing may be wasted or +lost, the machine b c is fixed to the scythe, +b being stuck into the hole at a, and fastened +with a pin through it at the other +side. A cord is tied from the other end c +to the handle d, before the scythe is used. +The lower, or shortest, bar of this appendage +scarcely extends beyond the extremity +of the scythe at f. Its position is +regulated by a cord, according to the inclination +of the blade f g.</p> + +<p>The length of the main handle of the +scythe, e f, is two ells.</p> + + +<h4><i>August 31.</i></h4> + +<p>I collected and described various species +of <i>Fungi</i>.</p> + +<p>(Here follow descriptions or characters +of several species of <i>Agaricus</i>, <i>Boletus</i> and<!-- Page 196 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +<i>Hydnum</i>, given more correctly in the <i>Flora +Lapponica</i>.)</p> + + +<h4><i>September 3.</i></h4> + +<p>I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgomaster +Geyer Svanberg, who was born the +preceding night, or rather between one and +two in the morning. He was named Geyer.</p> + +<p>Mr. Svanberg told me the (<i>Cotyledon</i>) +<i>Umbilicus Veneris</i> grew on a hill called +<i>Karvick</i>, near Wallivari to the north. +(This probably was not confirmed, as the +plant does not occur in <i>Flo. Suecica</i>.)</p> + + +<h4><i>September 4.</i></h4> + +<p>I went to Biorknas, in order to be instructed +in the art of assaying.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 9.</i></h4> + +<p>I examined the fish called in West Bothland +<i>Natting</i>, (<i>Petromyzon fluviatilis.</i>) Its +upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling +two teeth. The lower has seven small<!-- Page 197 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +teeth, of which the two outermost are +largest. Mouth in the under side of the +head, gaping, oval, rather compressed. +There are seven openings in a row behind +the eyes, gradually larger as they recede +from thence. The fins have no visible +rays, but merely streaks, yet they are not +adipose, or fat, fins. There is a prominent +orifice on the top of the head. The <i>pericardium</i> +is cartilaginous. The fish is a span +long. Its hind fin triangular.</p> + +<p>These (lampreys) are caught at this time +of the year, when the nights grow dark, in +hollow timbers of a conical shape, resembling +the wicker baskets used for catching +eels. The entrance is made smooth and +even. These timbers are laid, at the depth +of two ells, in the river, and kept down with +stones, the opening being turned to meet +the current.</p> + +<p>Some such traps are made of willow-twigs +not bigger than goose-quills, platted +close together into the same shape, and are +two ells in length.<!-- Page 198 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p> + +<p>I was told that the Laplanders are accustomed +to preserve blood of the reindeer +in rennet-bags through the winter till +spring, when they boil it with water, and +drink it.</p> + +<p>Tar is obtained in the following manner. +A cavity, of an inversely conical shape, is +dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn +timbers, nine ells in length each, so as to +form a sort of funnel. This again is lined +with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the +tar draining away into the ground between +the timbers. At the bottom is another +funnel or vessel of wood to receive the tar, +which runs from thence into a trough, closed +on all sides, except a hole where the point +of the said funnel is inserted, and another +at the extremity, closed with a moveable +plug, from which the tar is received into +vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut +to pieces, are placed upright in the large +funnel above, so as to leave a convexity +over the bottom, and the whole being covered +with turf is set on fire, against the<!-- Page 199 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> +wind. Care is taken, by varying the admission +of air, to prevent its burning too +fast, or unequally; and by this means they +procure both tar and charcoal.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 14.</i></h4> + +<p>I took my leave of Biorknas. The weather +was cold and rainy. Such of the forest +trees as are of a deciduous nature had +now assumed a pallid hue, in consequence of +the cold nights; but the evergreens, with +their needle-shaped leaves, standing among +them, seemed to defy the cold, and were rendered +conspicuous by their dark-green colour. +The high wind scattered the withered +leaves over my path. How useful are the +usual storms of autumn to disperse ripe +seeds, and plant colonies far from the parent +trees! The hills appeared sandy; and such +places as had been burnt were now perfectly +white with Reindeer Moss, (<i>Lichen +rangiferinus</i>,) which grew so close together, +as hardly to leave any room for the +Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads<!-- Page 200 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> +like the Iceland Moss, (<i>Lichen islandicus.</i>)</p> + +<p>Some part of the road consisted of a +reddish-brown earth, such as I had observed +in the early part of my journey +near Umœa. I was told that it was excellent +for red paint. At length I reached +Zingis, and in the evening arrived at Tornea, +entirely wet through.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 15.</i></h4> + +<p>I observed how they manage their corn +at this season. They have no barns to lay +it into, but it is placed between poles, all +the ears directed to one side, in stacks two +or three ells long, and very high. If the +corn be not quite dry, it is first spread +abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a kiln, +and thrashed on a floor. How liable must +it be to take fire, and how much must unavoidably +be spilt in consequence of such +management!</p> + +<p>I received 100 dollars, of copper-money, +from the chief clergyman.<!-- Page 201 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p> + +<p>I learned here that Tansy (<i>Tanacetum +vulgare</i>) and Mugwort (<i>Artemisia vulgaris</i>) +are used to make a fomentation or +bath, wonderfully useful for women in labour, +who are accustomed to sit over the +steam of these herbs. I had observed the +people at every house drying Tansy, but +could meet with nobody who would inform +me to what use it was destined.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 16.</i></h4> + +<p>This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. +There are six ferries between these two +places, over the river Kokama, which passes +near Kimi. Two miles from hence are the +boundaries of East and West Bothnia. +Lime-stone attracted my notice all the way +along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow +on the outside, whitish within.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 17.</i></h4> + +<p>I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. +The weather was unfavourable, for it rained +all day long. I took up my lodging in the<!-- Page 202 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> +evening at the posthouse of Jö. This part +of the country lies very low, abounding with +marshes and numerous small rivulets, but +few hills. There is plenty of grass. The +buildings are bad. The forests consist +chiefly of Birch, intermixed with the <i>acifoliæ</i> +(slender-leaved evergreens). Of these last +the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance +and large size, so as to be almost arborescent. +The Birch and the dwarf Willows +had now become pale, but the <i>Sorbus</i> +(Mountain ash, <i>Pyrus aucuparia</i>, <i>Fl. Brit.</i>) +had assumed a red hue, as well as all the +mosses. (<i>Pedicularis</i>) <i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i> +appeared every where by the roadside. +<i>Thalictrum</i> (<i>flavum</i>) and <i>Scutellaria</i> +(<i>galericulata</i>) were less frequent, but Golden-rod +(<i>Solidago Virga aurea</i>), <i>Trollius</i> +(<i>europæus</i>), (<i>Spiræa</i>) <i>Ulmaria</i>, and <i>Epilobium</i> +(<i>palustre</i>?) were plentiful, as was the +sweet <i>Milium</i> (<i>effusum</i>), with the <i>Gramen +ramosum</i> (probably <i>Aira cæspitosa</i>.)</p> + +<p>The inhabitants were in their smoky +huts, with their eyes full of smoke, and the<!-- Page 203 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +tears running from them. Nevertheless +they seemed more studious of warmth than +careful of their eyesight.</p> + +<p>The same sort of plough is used here as +at Kimi.</p> + +<p>I had frequent views of the sea through +the woods on the right hand. Wherever the +waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea +with a triangular stem, a white creeping +perennial root, and thick leaves alternately +pinnate, (<i>Pisum maritimum</i>).</p> + +<p>Near Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to +catch wolves. This was dug in a hill, at +no great distance from the house. Around +it within were eleven pales or stakes, placed +upright and close together. In the centre +stood a pole, which, as well as the pales, +was on a level with the surface of the +ground. The pole supported a wheel, over +which were laid boards, so as entirely to +cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, +when caught, should be able to climb up +as high as the wheel, he might not get any +further.<!-- Page 204 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span></p> + +<p>The peasants of this upper part of East +Bothnia, children of darkness in their houses, +are no less so in their slovenly appearance, +chiefly owing to their uncombed hair. Their +breeches reach as low as the feet, and are +white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, +sewed together in front.—Their disposition +is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected +with a smell of sour fish, like sour +Strœmming, for they are kept very dirty. +These people speak no other language than +the Finlandish.</p> + +<p>Here and there by the road I had this +day travelled, I noticed the Sea Wheat-grass, +(<i>Elymus arenarius</i>. See <i>Fl. Lapp. +ed.</i> 2. <i>n.</i> 34.)</p> + + +<h4><i>September 18.</i></h4> + +<p>I travelled from Jö to Ulaborg. The +rye was bound into sheaves, ten of which +were piled up together in a heap, the ears +at the top of each being brought close +together, and another sheath being placed, +in an inverted position, upon them, the<!-- Page 205 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> +whole was sheltered from wet. The barley +was not set upright, but laid on one +side, in such a manner that the ears were +all turned inward, and the straw stood outward +all round. On the top of each little +stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was +put, as a kind of covering.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 215px;"> +<a href="images/i_205.jpg"><img src="images/i_205_tn.jpg" width="215" height="400" +alt="Style of barley stacks seen in Ulaborg; linked to larger image." +title="Style of barley stacks seen in Ulaborg; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The villages consisted of the same kind +of smoky huts I have already described.<!-- Page 206 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span></p> + +<p>(The annexed cut seems to be a representation +of one of these dwellings, at which +Linnæus was so indignant.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_206.jpg"><img src="images/i_206_tn.jpg" width="400" height="311" +alt="Sketch of a local hut; linked to a larger image." +title="Sketch of a local hut; linked to a larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are +collected from the shore, which, though +nothing but concretions of sand and small +pebbles, are so firm as to serve for the construction +of ovens. At one spot, where the +river had excavated the sandy bank, it was +evident that the cement, which combines +these particles together, is no other than a +rust of iron. The stones in general hereabouts +are very fine-grained, and break +easily. They have all the appearance of +containing a portion of iron. Some were +more rugged and rusty than the rest.<!-- Page 207 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p> + +<p>A kind of boats used here to navigate +rapid and dangerous parts of the rivers, +are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and +are four or five fathoms long, and about +one broad in their middle. The sides are +five or six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities +compressed. The middle of the +boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel +being raised up, or hollowed as it were by +the dilatation of the sides, in which all the +importance and peculiarity of the contrivance +consists, for without this the vessel +would be much more easily overset in rapid +and shelvy places. Some of these boats +have no prominent keel at all; others are +furnished with a slight one, chiefly in their +forepart, which is a little the highest, in +order to bear the better any shocks from +striking against stones; so that if this +part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel +may go in safety.</p> + +<p>One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, +(<i>Salmo Lavaretus</i>, or Gwiniad, before +mentioned) are five spans high, and of a<!-- Page 208 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +considerable length, the meshes very small. +There are loop-holes at the top, large +enough to admit two fingers, bordered with +birch bark, whose edges are sewn together. +(See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones +(5, 6, 7) at the bottom are but small, covered +with birch bark. The nets are set +near the sandy shore.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_208.jpg"><img src="images/i_208_tn.jpg" width="400" height="123" +alt="Style of net used to catch Sijk-fish; linked to larger image." +title="Style of net used to catch Sijk-fish; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>Another kind of net, used for catching +the same fish, is placed in the strongest +part of a current or water-fall. It resembles +a receiving net, except being not so deep. +The length is three ells, breadth two, and +depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by +means of poles, in the middle of the very +strongest and most confined current, against +the stream, so that when the fish attempts +to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on<!-- Page 209 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +each side the net, he finds it impracticable, +and is thrown back by the force of the +water, generally into the net, out of which +he can never escape, but is taken out at +leisure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 345px;"> +<a href="images/i_209.jpg"><img src="images/i_209_tn.jpg" width="345" height="400" +alt="Another style of fishing net; linked to larger image." +title="Another style of fishing net; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet +made any use of. The taste of the water +seemed good. This spring is situated close +to the town, on a small island, where there +is a sawing-mill.</p> + +<p>In the church I noticed the monument +of Messenius, with his effigy made to the<!-- Page 210 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +life. He is actually buried here<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>. This +church is one of the longest I ever saw +built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. +The arms of the town are displayed +on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as +large as Lund.</p> +<p><!-- Page 211 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span></p> + +<h4><i>September 19.</i></h4> + +<p>After attending divine service I left this +place. Sledges in use here are constructed +with a cross board to rest the feet against. +(a, seems to be a bandage or belt, to keep +the traveller from being suddenly jolted out +of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the +back or head against; but there are no references +in the manuscript to these letters +of the sketch.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_211.jpg"><img src="images/i_211_tn.jpg" width="400" height="184" +alt="Sledge; linked to larger image." title="Sledge; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>I now came in sight of the extensive +meadows of Limingo, more spacious than +all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rödbeck +together. (Tuneld says in his Geography, +that the meadows of Limingo,<!-- Page 212 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +and cornfields of the neighbouring parish +of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for +their great extent.) At first the land seemed +a perfect marsh, filled with Horsetail (<i>Equisetum +fluviatile</i>), and especially with Reed, +<i>Arundo</i> (<i>Phragmites</i>), which last grew in +such abundance as to resemble a forest. +The Water Hemlock, <i>Cicutaria aquatica</i>, +<i>Cicuta virosa</i>; (see p. <a href="#Page_136">136</a>), was very plentiful +by the road-side. This led me to inquire +whether the cattle ever fed there? +I was answered by the peasants in the affirmative, +with a question in my turn, whether +I could give them any advice on the +subject, for they had lost a great many; +adding similar particulars to what I had +heard at Tornea.</p> + +<p>Red Currants (<i>Ribes rubrum</i>) grew all +the way by the road, as well as <i>Lenticula</i> +(<i>Lemna</i> or Duck-weed), and the <i>Lichenoides</i> +of which powder is made was observable +on the trees. (<i>Lichen prunastri</i>, said +to have been used for hair-powder.)</p> + +<p>The meadow of Limingo is two miles<!-- Page 213 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> +in length. The best part of the land, near +the village of that name, was now occupied +by the horned cattle. The land here is +more elevated and less marshy, though +somewhat impaired by tumps (of <i>Carex +cæspitosa</i>). If but a third part of it were +cultivated, according to the Scanian mode +of husbandry, it would be of more value +than the whole is at present. I was told +that the whole marsh might be laid dry, +by cutting a channel down to the seashore; +but it was feared that the land +might in consequence become covered +with White Moss (<i>Sphagnum palustre</i>), +which would render it altogether unprofitable.</p> + +<p>About a thousand hay-cocks were now +before me on the meadow, but none of +them consisting of more than a horse could +draw. They never here use more than a +single horse or ox at a time for draught. +Each of these cocks was raised from the +ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by +several cross poles. Some of the Water<!-- Page 214 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> +Iris (<i>Iris Pseud'acorus</i>) was mixed with +the hay.</p> + +<p>The milk-strainers are made of straw, +and not very clean.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 20.</i></h4> + +<p>Brabestad, not far distant, is a small +town, though twice the size of Tornea, +standing on a peninsula by the sea.</p> + +<p>In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, +whose insanity is said to have arisen +from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. +One of them, whose wife was a very old +woman, took this fancy, supposing her to +intrigue with several other men. Possibly +in these cases impotence, or perhaps some +fantastic concupiscence, may have been a +cause of the derangement.</p> + +<p>About this neighbourhood it is the custom +to administer to women in labour a +very nauseous medicine, which is called +<i>Hittatran</i>, or Casual Train-oil; so termed +because it is obtained from the carcases of<!-- Page 215 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +such seals as, having been killed early in +the spring, have been left among the broken +ice till they are by chance cast upon +the shore. They are consequently putrid, +and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, +except such as are in great extremity, or +not very nice, can be brought to take it. +In general Castor is here considered as a +sheet-anchor in such cases, as being found +by long experience very effectual in bringing +on the labour-pains. Others take saffron +infused in wine. For after-pains they swallow, +as at Kimi, a few drops of blood +from the umbilical cord, not only in the +woman's first lying-in, but every subsequent +one.</p> + +<p>Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a +method by which they pretend to catch +bears, with a sort of magic. This is done +by procuring some of the bear's dung, fresh +and warm if possible, and mixing it with +that of one of their own cows. The consequence +is said to be, that the bear will be +attracted by sympathy to come after the<!-- Page 216 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +cow; an effect certainly not more wonderful +than many sympathies upon record.</p> + +<p>There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki +which is called <i>Muicu</i>. Bishop Terserus, +a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says +that he has seen at this place a fish named +<i>Muicu</i>, which is no other than the <i>Blikta</i>, +taken in the lake of Silian in his native +country. How true this may be I know +not, but I saw plainly that this <i>Muicu</i> is +the <i>Small Sijk</i> (<i>Salmo Albula</i>), such as is +found in Smoland.</p> + +<p>The following figure represents a plough +used here, drawn by an ox. The share, a, +is of iron, a span long. The part b is four +spans high; c is four spans long; d and e, +three spans each; f, g, four spans. The +ends of the shafts are connected by a curved +piece of wood, which keeps them from +the shoulders of the animal, and supports +them.<!-- Page 217 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_217.jpg"><img src="images/i_217_tn.jpg" width="400" height="131" +alt="Ox-drawn plough; linked to larger image." +title="Ox-drawn plough; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> +<p><!-- Page 218 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>September 21.</i></h4> + +<p>Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, +I went to church at Gambla Carleby. +Here is an introductory school, to prepare +children for that at Cronby.</p> + +<p>I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a +remarkably good harbour. Ships are able +to load and unload close to the quay.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 22.</i> +</h4> +<p>Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town +of New Carleby, which is nearly as big as +Wexiö. Every one of the streets is laid +with timbers, placed cross-wise, instead of +stones, like a bridge, which has a handsome +appearance. The harbour of this +place is near the river, a quarter of a mile +from the town. Vessels when laden indeed +can scarcely come within half a mile. +On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined +to be conveyed to Stockholm for +fuel.<!-- Page 219 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> + +<p>The country-people have, in every one of +their mills, an instrument made of six or +seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut +chaff into small pieces in a trough, in order +to grind it afterwards with their barley.</p> + +<p><i>Rotkäl</i> (<i>Brassica oleracea κ</i>, Sp. Pl. +932, <i>Napo brassica</i>, or Stalk-cabbage) is +dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and +given with the liquor to the cattle.</p> + +<p>The women at this place wear a hood, or +neckcloth, as they call it, of grey walmal +cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied +with a black ribband in the fore part. +When they ride on horseback, they carry +the whip slung at their back.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"> +<a href="images/i_219.jpg"><img src="images/i_219_tn.jpg" width="379" height="400" +alt="Women's hood or neckcloth; linked to larger image." +title="Women's hood or neckcloth; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> +<p><!-- Page 220 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p> + +<p>To stir up the pot, when boiling, they +use a stick with several projecting bits of +wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) +which is rolled between their +hands.</p> + +<p>In the evening of this day I arrived at +Wasa.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 23.</i></h4> + +<p>I went to church at Wasa, and visited +also the palace, situated on the south-west +side of the city, the school, and other +public buildings. This is a handsome little +town enough. It is the residence of the +governor.</p> + +<p>Not far from the town, and indeed close +to the walls, is a reputed copper-mine, the +working of which was discontinued, after an +excavation had been made to the depth of +five or six fathoms. The ore has a glittering +micaceous appearance, and gives a stain +like black lead. The sand about it is a +loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. +I do not indeed believe that it contains any +copper or other metal; which seems to have<!-- Page 221 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +been the opinion of those who so soon gave +over the pursuit.</p> + +<p>The rustics here trust to three doctors, +Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and Pallavinus. +(By a chemical sign annexed, it appears +that Linnæus here meant brandy, but the +word itself is not explained.)</p> + +<p>This day being Sunday, I saw the girls +all going bare-headed to church. They +each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, +supported by broad coloured ribbands, the +ends of which hung down.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 24.</i></h4> + +<p>In my way from New Carleby to this +place (the day before yesterday) I had observed +a kind of plough in use, different +from any I had before seen. This was almost +always drawn by a horse, seldom by +an ox. The latter, when used, had the +same harness as the horse, but without a +girth. Over its back indeed passes a band +like a saddle-girth, which is kept upon the +neck of the animal to prevent the harness<!-- Page 222 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> +sliding forward; but for horses they use no +such thing. See the figure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 333px;"> +<a href="images/i_222.jpg"><img src="images/i_222_tn.jpg" width="333" height="400" +alt="Harness used for ox-drawn plough; linked to larger image." +title="Harness used for ox-drawn plough; linked to larger image." /></a> +</div> + +<p>The shoes worn at this place in some measure +resemble half-boots. The soles are of +untanned leather, with the hair upon it; +the upper leathers made of tanned seal-<!-- Page 223 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>skin, +and tied round the ankle with strings. +(A representation of one of these shoes accompanies +the last figure.)</p> + +<p><i>Hypericum</i> (<i>perforatum</i>), <i>Scrophularia</i> +(<i>nodosa</i>), <i>Bidens</i> (<i>cernua</i>?) occurred to me +here, for the first time in all my journey. +The three species of <i>Ribes</i> (<i>rubrum</i>, <i>alpinum</i> +and <i>nigrum</i>,) were in prodigious +abundance.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 25.</i></h4> + +<p>At sun-rise I took my departure from +Wasa. The pines in the forest were stripped +of their bark, so that vast tracts were +covered with nothing but such naked trees. +No more was left on each trunk, to the +height of three ells or three and a half, +than a small strip of bark, about the breadth +of four fingers, generally on the north side, +to prevent its being ... (here is a word not +to be decyphered). The trees are left standing +for six or seven years afterwards, and +are then cut down close to the roots, being +also headed a little above the naked part.<!-- Page 224 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> +The heads or branches either serve for +firing, or, as often happens, are left to rot +on the ground.</p> + +<p>Three miles below Wasa I recognised +the Climbing Nightshade (<i>Solanum Dulcamara</i>). +In the town itself I had noticed +(<i>Leonurus</i>) <i>Cardiaca</i>, and Henbane (<i>Hyoscyamus +niger</i>). Near the shore grew +<i>Salix oleæfolia</i> with its berries, <i>(Hippophaë +rhamnoides</i>). It is known by the name +of <i>Finnbær</i> or <i>Surbær</i>, (Finn-berries, or +Sour berries). The fruit is situated below +the leaves, as in the Alder. The +footstalks are two lines long. Berries +bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, +three or four lines long, smooth, sour, having +a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous +matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, +slightly compressed, obtuse, attached by +its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds +it. When this cover is removed, the +seed itself appears brown and polished, +having a longitudinal groove at each side. +The fishermen eat these berries bruised,<!-- Page 225 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> +by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I +thought them rather too acid.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 26.</i></h4> + +<p>I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but +before coming to that place, noticed at +Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which +had formerly been a fine meadow, the soil +being extremely good. But at present it +was so entirely overrun with tumps (originally +perhaps formed of <i>Carex cæspitosa</i>) +that it produced little or nothing. These +tumps were crowded almost over one another, +and were overgrown by <i>Polytrichum</i> +(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, +and rendered most of them nearly +black. There was scarcely room for the +cattle to make their way to any food between +the tumps.</p> + +<p>In the passages of all the houses hung +nets, used for catching bears. These are +made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner +bark of the lime-tree, <i>Tilia europæa</i>,) full +as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes<!-- Page 226 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> +when stretched are each three quarters of +an ell wide. The height of the net is equal +to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported +by poles, are set up in a line of one +hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side +close to the ground. The bear is driven +into them by the people hunting him on all +sides.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 27.</i></h4> + +<p>This day I observed a mode of brewing +in a kneading trough, which stood on a +table, and its end being made so as to +slide up and down, the wort is easily poured +out.</p> + +<p>Below the town of Christina, I first found +the <i>Lathyrus viciæformis</i> (<i>L. palustris</i>), +and Water Cresses, (<i>Sisymbrium Nasturtium</i>); +also <i>Campanula persicifolia</i> and +(<i>Sedum</i>) <i>Telephium</i>.</p> + + +<h4><i>September 28.</i></h4> + +<p>I was glad when I had done with the +very bad road which extends from the<!-- Page 227 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, +towards Biorreborg; a highway it cannot +be called, for it is exactly like the road between +the town of Umoea and Granoen. +(See <i>v.</i> 1. 141.)</p> + +<p>Near Sastmola I first recognised the +<i>Acer</i> (<i>platanoides</i>) and <i>Filix fœmina ramosa</i> +(<i>Aspidium Filix-fœmina</i>?)</p> + +<p>The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl +lies along the coast. The grass here was +remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of +plants; as the <i>Ribes insipidum</i> (<i>alpinum</i>), +called by the inhabitants <i>Degbaer</i>, in the +greatest abundance. (<i>Viburnum</i>) <i>Opulus</i> +and (<i>Lonicera</i>) <i>Xylosteum</i> here first re-appeared +after my long absence.</p> + +<p>N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs +us grows on this island, with blackish-brown +berries, may perhaps be the <i>Xylosteum</i>, +as the colour of the leaves seemed to +agree very well. (Were it not for the above +indication of the colour of the berries, it +might, from the <i>Flora Suecica</i>, be suspected +that Linnæus had, in these two para<!-- Page 228 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>graphs, +written by mistake <i>Xylosteum</i> for +<i>Periclymenum</i>.)</p> + +<p>The alpine Stone Bramble, <i>Rubus saxatilis</i>, +was extremely plentiful; and the Cultivated +Hop (<i>Humulus Lupulus</i>), growing +wild, afforded me great pleasure, as I contemplated +its ingenious manner of curling +round the Aspen trees (<i>Populus tremula</i>). +Here also (<i>Anemone</i>) <i>Hepatica</i>, and the +<i>Cracca</i> with toothed wings (<i>stipulæ</i>) and +striated flowers, (<i>Vicia sylvatica</i>,) as well +as the <i>Orobus vernus</i>, once more greeted +me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, +whose stems serve for cleaning the +inside of tobacco-pipes, (<i>Agrostis arundinacea</i>,) +grows copiously in this part of the +country; and reached higher than my +head. The marshes abound with <i>Iris</i> +(<i>Pseud-acorus</i>) and with <i>Cyperus</i> (probably +<i>Scirpus maritimus</i>).</p> + +<p>The greater part of the road I had travelled +hitherto from Kimi lay so near the +shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, +the sea was frequently visible through the +forests.<!-- Page 229 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>September 29.</i></h4> + +<p>I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day.</p> + +<p>When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he +immediately runs to one side, for the animal, +if not killed, is sure to run directly +forward, towards the smoke; by which +means the man escapes out of his reach.</p> + +<p>The peasants who reside near the cliffs +or rising ground judge by the crows (<i>Corvus +Cornix</i>), of the approach of bad weather; +for these birds seek the marshy +country in the evening, before it comes on.</p> + +<p>Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound +with sculls. I reckoned forty of them in +one heap. This churchyard is built round, +after the old fashion.</p> + +<p>On entering one of the stove-huts of the +inhabitants here, it was so hot, that I +thought my nose would have been burnt +off. Nevertheless, the people within seemed +comfortable enough, and the boys, clad +in skins, were running up and down the +couch. The stove is constructed like that<!-- Page 230 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is +piled a great heap of flat stones, to the +height of a man. The old women sit in +these huts half naked.</p> + +<p>Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river +almost navigable. In some parts, as I was +told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one +place is a ferry across this river. Half a +mile from hence southward, close to the +road, between two small bridges which are +near each other, I noticed a sand-hill of +very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, +some white, others reddish-purple.</p> + +<p>In the evening I arrived at the town of +Abo, which is as large as Orebro, and well +built. It has often been ruined by the +enemy, and often burnt down by accidental +fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, +might easily happen from the stoves of the +huts. I remarked that these stoves were +less lofty than some I had seen, and that +several stones lay loosely piled on one another +above the opening, which serve to +retain the heat.<!-- Page 231 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> + + +<h4><i>September 30.</i></h4> + +<p>The Finnish liquor called <i>Lura</i> is prepared +like other beer, except not being +boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are +thrown into it. Hence its purgative quality +from the iron.</p> + +<p>Here I saw a flying squirrel (<i>Sciurus +volans</i>) from Tavasthia.</p> + +<p>The long black rat, with a white lower +lip, catches birds, both on trees and in the +water. He holds fast by his claws, and +bites with his four prominent teeth. The +Finlanders call this animal <i>Mink</i>. (This +seems to be <i>Viverra Lutreola</i>, Faun. Suec. +ed. 2. 5.)</p> + +<p>A quarter of a mile from the city is a +mineral spring, of which Tillands has taken +notice. (See <i>v.</i> 1. 43, <i>note</i>.) It is older +than that of Medevi (near Vadstena). The +current is so strong that one of the burghers +of the city has built a mill, to which the +water is led, but it does not always go. +Near the town a mine has lately been<!-- Page 232 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> +opened, containing iron here and there, +with small quantities of pyrites. The +mountain itself is a black mica, immediately +adjoining to the city.</p> + +<p>The library here is miserable. There +are two colleges close together.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 5.</i></h4> + +<p>I departed from Abo. The corn-fields +of Finland are beautiful, and resemble +those of East Gothland in their wide extent +and level surface.</p> + +<p>There are regular ferry boats at stated +times to take passengers to the isle of +Aland.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 6.</i></h4> + +<p>I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, +where I was to go on board the ferry-boat. +The shore is a red rock. Passed over to +the island of Aland, the whole of which consists +of the same kind of red rock. The +palace of Castelholm, at present falling fast +into ruins, is built of this sort of stone.<!-- Page 233 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span></p> + +<p>The women use for dyeing a sort of rock +<i>Lichenoides</i>, of a brown stercoraceous colour, +(perhaps <i>Lichen stygius</i>, or <i>omphalodes</i>,) +which they boil in water with alum. +But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed +without alum. Some add a little Arnotto +(<i>Bixa Orelana</i>).</p> + +<p>Shoes like short half-boots are worn here +made of seal-skin.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 7.</i></h4> + +<p>In the evening of this day I passed over +the plain of Aland. There were abundance +of Finn-berries (<i>Hippophaë rhamnoides</i>) +by the road.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 8.</i></h4> + +<p>I sailed over the sea of Aland.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 9.</i></h4> + +<p>Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been +opened. About the church are sundry +sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the +small surrounding hills, as well as at Mu<!-- Page 234 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>sangen, +very fine and lofty plants of juniper +resembling cypresses, the branches +erect and close, assuming a conical or pyramidal +figure.</p> + + +<h4><i>October 10.</i></h4> + +<p>About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived +safe at Upsal.</p> + +<p>To the Maker and Preserver of all things +be praise, honour and glory for ever!</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Some observations relative to the Seal, +<i>Phoca vitulina</i>.</p> + +<p>There are two kinds (or varieties) of +this animal. The <i>Gr[)a] Si[)a]l</i> (Grey Seal) is +the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and +slightly clouded on the back. The <i>Wikare +Si[)a]l</i> (Creek Seal) is smaller, black on +the back, and very cloudy or wavy at the +sides. Otherwise there is no difference +between them.</p> + +<p>The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, +being covered with white hair about an +inch long, which it loses in four or five<!-- Page 235 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> +weeks, and becomes quite black. At the +same period it acquires more activity and +shyness than at first. The upper fore teeth +are six, very small, resembling those of a +dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at +their outer edge, as in the dog, and furnished +with a little notch at their base. +Grinders six. Whiskers remarkably large. +There are two nipples a little below the +navel, which the female has a power of +drawing in, so as to leave holes large +enough to admit the finger. She lets them +out at pleasure to her young one.</p> + +<p>The seal lies on its back while sleeping, +either on the ice or on rocks. They couple +soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September +21; and the grey seal brings forth +its young in January, the creek seal in February. +The male runs round and round +the female many times, with a yelping +noise, being very careful not to be observed.</p> + +<p>When the female has young, the male is +very savage, and continually attends to<!-- Page 236 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> +protect her. She brings forth but one at +a birth, which at first is dull and stupid, +easily caught. If thrown into the water, +however, he exerts himself with some activity, +and returns to the shore, not having +as yet acquired any shyness. But by the +time all his first coat of white hair is fallen +off, he begins to be timid. The growth +of the young seals is very rapid.</p> + +<p>The seal, when out of the water, can +hardly distinguish objects at half a quarter +of a mile's distance at the utmost. But +in foggy and dull weather he sees better +than in sunshine. He never remains in +the water during moon-light nights. His +hearing is acute though he has no external +ears, and his scent is also very quick. He +can remain under water for nearly half +a quarter of an hour; but by that time +he must, at the peril of his life, come to +the surface to breathe, which he often does +within a fathom of the shore, and he afterwards +spouts out water.</p> + +<p>Nets for catching seals are set right out<!-- Page 237 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> +into the sea, from some promontory, to the +distance of twenty fathoms. These are +examined every morning, to see what is +caught. They are chiefly set from St. Bartholomew +(August 24), when the moon is +in her wane, till over St. Matthew's day, +September 21.</p> + +<p>Grey seals are hunted in winter till +Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, often in +great numbers, close to a hole which they +have made in it. When they come out of +the water by this opening upon the surface +of the ice, the water they bring with them +freezes about its margin, so that in time +the edges become elevated, and it looks +like a well. If it should freeze over, they +travel to the south-west, till they can get +at water, always proceeding straight forward, +even though they meet with mountains +in their way; and they return in the +same direct line back again. The hunters +go with large poles, carefully approaching +the creek seal till they get near enough to +fire at him before he is aware. The grey<!-- Page 238 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +seal is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon.</p> + +<p>The seals are able to penetrate through +the ice from beneath, lying on their backs +under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot +make their way into it from above.</p> + +<p class="center">END OF THE TOUR.</p> +<p><!-- Page 239 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX. +<br /> +N<sup>o</sup> I.<br /><br /> +A BRIEF NARRATIVE<br /> +OF<br /> +A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND,</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in +the Year 1732, at the Expense of the Royal +Academy (of Upsal); by <span class="smcap">Charles Linnæus</span>, +Student of Physic and of Natural History, as +drawn up by Himself to lay before the said +Academy.</p></div> + + +<p>The Royal Academy of Sciences having, +last Spring, permitted my humble memorial +to be laid before them, respecting the +project of a journey to Lapland, with a +view to the improvement of natural history, +and having honoured the same with their +approbation, appointing me to undertake<!-- Page 240 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +the expedition. I feel it my duty, after +having accomplished my journey, most respectfully +to present to the Academy a narrative +thereof.</p> + +<p>For the sake of brevity and clearness I +shall divide my subject into three parts.</p> + +<p>1st, A journal of my tour.</p> + +<p>2d, The expenses incurred.</p> + +<p>3d, The advantages likely to accrue.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<h3><a name="I_The_Journal" id="I_The_Journal"></a>I. <span class="smcap">The Journal.</span></h3> + +<h4><i>May 12, 1732.</i></h4> + + +<p>Having received my instructions from +the Royal Academy of Sciences, with a +passport from the Government, and having +prepared every thing necessary for my journey, +I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, +from this place (Upsal), carrying with me +nothing but what was absolutely necessary, +in order that I might not be detained or +interrupted, in case of not being able always +to procure a horse, but might occasionally +pursue my way on foot. As the +summer seemed to be fast advancing, I<!-- Page 241 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> +thought it not advisable to lose time by +the way, nor to stray far from the road, in +the early part of the tour, but only to observe +attentively what readily presented itself, +that I might reach Lapland with all +possible dispatch.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 13.</i></h4> + +<p>By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, +where I was obliged to stay all that day, +for it was evening before I received from +the governor of the province (of Gestrickland) +the requisite passport, which was accompanied +by orders to all the public officers +in his district to give me all requisite +assistance to penetrate, if possible, into +Asila Lapmark.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 14.</i></h4> + +<p>Owing to the above delay, and my attending +morning service the next day at +Gefle church, I could not quit that place +till one o'clock. Proceeding without stopping +to Hudwickswald, I there merely<!-- Page 242 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> +spoke a few words to Mr. Broman the +clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby +Knylen, the highest mountain in Medelpad, +from whence I went to Sundswall, +and further. In my way I examined +a cave formed by nature in a very hard +rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for +thieves and highwaymen.</p> + +<p>I was so unfortunate, in my journey +through Medelpad, as not to meet with +a single horse that did not tumble with +me several times, in consequence of which +I was at one time so severely hurt as to +be scarcely able to remount. Having already +collected together a number of stones +and minerals, which were no less burthensome +than unnecessary to carry along with +me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I +left these incumbrances. I did not, however, +stay there above two hours.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 20.</i></h4> + +<p>At length I reached the famous mountain +of Skula in Angermanland, at the very<!-- Page 243 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> +top of which is a large grotto, so neatly +formed by nature that art could scarcely +have excelled it. This grotto was represented +to me as quite inaccessible, and it +was said that not more than two or three +persons had ever been there; nor was it +without great difficulty that I prevailed on +two men to accompany me, every body +deeming the project impracticable. As we +climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept +forwards, sometimes slid back again. Now +we mounted a considerable way by catching +hold of branches and roots of trees, +and then, meeting with steep inaccessible +rocks, were obliged to turn back. After +following one of my guides for about two +hours, I thought the other seemed to make +more progress; which induced me to go +after the latter. I was scarcely got two ells +out of my former path, than the man whose +track I had left loosened a large stone with +his foot, which fell on the very spot I had +quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded +by fire and smoke, and should<!-- Page 244 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> +certainly, but for the protecting hand of +Providence, have been crushed to pieces. +We reached the grotto at length, after +much labour and trouble, and descended +the mountain with much greater facility. +Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which +grew close to the rocks, we slid down upon +them, dragging them after us down the +precipices.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 23.</i></h4> + +<p>I at length, after twelve days journey, +reached Umoea.</p> + +<p>It had originally been my design to go +to Asila Lapmark, in order to observe +what plants are able to endure the very +hard winters of that region, but I was obliged +to change my plan. The summer +would not have been long enough, nor my +stock of money sufficient to enable me to +reach that most northern part of the country, +where the severity of the climate is +augmented by the cold north wind and +the vast snowy mountains. I applied,<!-- Page 245 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of +Umoea, for a passport to the nearer parts +of Lapland, which was immediately granted. +This gentleman showed the greatest +readiness to befriend me, and appeared to +take much interest in the success of my +undertaking. He gave such orders as +might cause the public officers in Lapland +to lay no obstacles in my way, but rather +to assist me by every means in their power. +He himself gave me much curious information, +and showed me his own garden, +that I might observe what plants would +stand the winter here: concluding by expressing, +in the most flattering terms, his +approbation of my appointment.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 25.</i></h4> + +<p>The following morning I set out on my +way towards Lapmark. Leaving the highway, +I came to one of the most unpleasant +roads I ever travelled. It was covered +with stones, betwixt which were thick en<!-- Page 246 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>tangled +roots of trees, and among them +were deep holes full of water. The whole +ground was a marsh, which the frost was +at this time just about quitting. Large +pine-trees, that had been blown down in +the course of the stormy winter, frequently +crossed my path; and the more flexible +birches, weighed down by the snow, interrupted +my course on all sides. I frequently +came to such steep heathy places that my +horse could scarcely climb or descend them, +and in the bottoms between them were +marshy tracts, with rivulets destitute of +bridges, so that my beast slipped down several +times; and as I passed the streams, +the water reached up to my saddle. I then +regretted, what I had in the former part of +my journey so much detested, travelling +on the high-way on these stumbling horses, +and would rather have descended the steepest +hill in Angermannia than have chosen +the present road, for at every step the +horse took, I thought he would have fallen.<!-- Page 247 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span></p> + +<p>In the evening of</p> + + +<h4><i>May 28,</i></h4> + +<p>however, I arrived at Genom, the last +village in Westbothland, seven miles from +the great road which leads westward from +Umoea. Not having reposed since I left +the place last mentioned, I slept here all +night.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 29.</i></h4> + +<p>The next morning I proceeded in a boat +up the river of Umoea as far as Lycksele +church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, +and situated five miles distant from +Grano. This was Whitsun-eve.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 30.</i></h4> + +<p>Being Whitsunday, I determined to +stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the minister +of the place<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> (Pastor Gran in the original) +wished me to wait till the next Sabbath-<!-- Page 248 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>day, +as he did not think it advisable for me +to proceed, so as to come suddenly among +the Laplanders, before he had made my +design known from the pulpit. He was +apprehensive that I might meet with the +same accident as his own wife had done, +who coming unexpectedly upon these people, +had a fire-lock presented to her breast. +Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water +in the river, in consequence of the advancing +summer among the Alps, was so rapid, +that I was on that account induced to hasten +my departure, after having engaged one of +the colonists to accompany me by water to +the nearest habitation of some one of the +native Laplanders.</p> + + +<h4><i>May 31.</i></h4> + +<p>The divine service of this day being +over, I left Lycksele, taking with me only +three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer +tongues, by way of provision. I presumed +that I should procure among the Laplanders +flesh of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish,<!-- Page 249 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> +fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I well take +any thing more at present; for, whenever +we came at any shoals or falls in the river, +it was necessary for my companion to take +our boat on his head, over mountains and +valleys, so that I had not only my own +luggage to carry at such times, but his +likewise.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 1.</i></h4> + +<p>Having by morning come within the +territories of the nearest Laplander, we +left our boat on the shore of the river, and +went in search of this man through the +wild forests, where we saw no more traces +of roads or enclosures than if the country +were entirely uninhabited. We met, however, +with several deserted huts, where he +had at one time or other resided.</p> + +<p>Being exceedingly tired with this walk, +I was glad to repose myself here in the desert, +while my Finland conductor went in +search of my future guide. Nor was I +without considerable fears that this man,<!-- Page 250 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> +when he had met with the Laplander, +might not be able to find me again. However, +about noon he returned, accompanied +by a Laplander, who took charge of +me, inviting me home to his hut, where he +treated me with fish, and fresh water.</p> + +<p>I was afterwards conducted from one +Laplander to another, till I came to a part +of the river, about twenty-five miles above +Lycksele. I shall not dwell on the inconveniences +I was obliged to undergo every time +we had to seek for any of the Laplanders, +while I was quite destitute of provisions. +These poor people themselves had, at this +season, nothing but fish to eat, as they had +not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, +nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as +yet, milked any of their reindeer.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 2.</i></h4> + +<p>On coming to the place just mentioned, +we found it impracticable to proceed by +water, the river being so rapid, and so +much impeded by falls, that we were<!-- Page 251 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles +further, which I was told would bring us to +a more navigable stream. After walking +for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, +seemingly half a mile broad, which we had +to cross. At every step the water was +above our knees, and the ice was at the +bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, +we often sunk still deeper. When we had +traversed this marsh, we sought in vain +for any human creature, and were therefore +under the necessity, a little further on, of +crossing another bog, still worse than the +former, and a mile in extent. I know not +what I would not rather have undertaken +than to pass this place, especially as the +elements were all adverse, for it blowed +and rained violently.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 3.</i></h4> + +<p>By four o'clock this morning, having +conquered all our difficulties, we still could +not meet with any Laplander. I was so +fatigued that I could proceed no further<!-- Page 252 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> +without some repose. We therefore made +a fire; and having dried my clothes, I lay +down by the side of it, in hopes of taking a +little rest. But in this I had no success. +The fire scorched me on one side, while the +cold north wind pinched me on the other; +and the gnats so stung my hands, face, and +legs, that it was impossible to sleep. Thus +I remained in expectation of my Lapland +conductor, who had set out in search of +another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. +I could not help thinking how miserably +I might have to end my days here, in case +he should think proper to desert me entirely. +At length, however, he returned, +bringing with him a little black-looking +woman, whose hair hung loose about her +shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. +I scarcely think that any poet could have +described a fury so hideous as this woman. +She addressed me in Swedish to the following +effect. "Oh, thou poor man! what +misfortune can have brought thee into my +country? Seest thou what miserable living<!-- Page 253 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> +we have? I have never yet seen any +stranger here in summer. Whence dost +thou come, and whither dost thou intend +to go?" Having tasted nothing for four +days past but a little fresh fish, without +any bread, I asked her, seeing a small +kettle in her hand, what she could give me +to eat. She immediately set about boiling +a pike which she had brought with her; +but when I was going to taste it, I observed +heaps of vermin between the gills, which +made me loathe it altogether, and rather continue +to fast, though my strength suffered +much. This woman informed me there was +no boat to be had on the next river, and that +I had only to return the way I came; which +words were like a stroke of thunder to me. +I know not any thing I would less willingly +have undertaken than to traverse again +these Stygian marshes, which were now +not to be avoided. However, this good woman +conducted us to a side path, whereby +we avoided about half a mile of the way +we had come. In traversing the forest, we<!-- Page 254 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> +arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, +and covered with a roof. Here hung some +clothes, and a small rein-deer cheese, +which last I immediately wished to obtain. +But the woman refused, saying she should +want it herself for the next holiday. My +hunger was such, that I could not lose +sight of this cheese, and I was induced to +offer her any thing she was pleased to ask +for it, telling her I verily believed I should +hardly survive another day if I had it not. +At length she complied, and the cheese +proved afterwards of the most signal service +to me. We then took leave of our +female companion, and began to measure +back our steps. I was thus obliged to return +by the course of the river, having, with +the thoughtlessness of youth, undertaken +more than it was possible to perform.</p> + +<p>We continued our voyage down the +river, being carried with great velocity by +the current, the whole of the next day. +At length coming to an island, the Laplander +failed in his attempt to weather it,<!-- Page 255 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> +and the boat, striking against a rock, was +dashed to pieces. We both found ourselves +in the water; but the depth being +inconsiderable, we soon landed on the +island. My conductor lost not only his +boat, but a hatchet and pike. I lost two +stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron +(<i>Ardea cinerea</i>?) which was black with +a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or +<i>Gvousach</i>, as the Laplanders call it, (<i>Corvus</i>, +or <i>Lanius infaustus</i>, see <i>v.</i> 2. 109.) It +was with great difficulty we got from this +island to the shore. The sun shone warm; +and after having wrung the water out of +our clothes, we walked on for about a +mile, along the bank of the river, amongst +thickets and bogs, till we came in sight +of a colonist, who was fishing for pike. +He gave me some provision, and conducted +me to Grano, where I only stopped to rest +one night, and on the evening of the 8th +of June arrived at Umoea.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 12.</i></h4> + +<p>Early this morning I set out by land<!-- Page 256 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +towards Pithoea, where I arrived after +two days journey, for the night was as +pleasant for travelling as the day. Here +I met with kind entertainment from Mr. +Solander, the principal clergyman of the +place.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 19.</i></h4> + +<p>I went out to sea in a boat for some +miles, to explore the neighbouring coast +and islands, and returned at length to the +new town. Here however I made no long +stay, but proceeded in one day from thence +to Lulea. I was anxious to lose as little +time as possible, being very desirous of +reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time +enough to see the sun above the horizon at +midnight, which is seen to greater advantage +there than at Tornea.</p> + + +<h4><i>June 25.</i></h4> + +<p>Taking leave of the town, I embarked on +the river of Lulea, which I continued to navigate +upwards for several successive days +and nights, having good accommodation<!-- Page 257 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> +both as to food and boat. The boats here +are excellent, far unlike those in the district +of Umoean Lapland, which are, in a +manner, only sewed together, so that a +foot set on one of their sides is sufficient +to stave them; and if the passengers are +not careful how they sit down, the boat is +overset. After three days and three nights, +we reached Quickjock, situated close to the +alps. Here I received from the famous +wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions +sufficient to last me for eight days.</p> + + +<h4><i>July 6.</i></h4> + +<p>After several days' travelling, on the +evening of July 6th I ascended <i>Wallavari</i>, +the first mountain of the alps on this side, +which is indeed of a very considerable +height. My companion was a Laplander, +who served me both as servant and interpreter. +In the latter capacity his assistance +was highly requisite, few persons being to +be met with on these alps who are ac<!-- Page 258 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>quainted +with the Swedish language; nor +was I willing to trust myself alone among +these wild people, who were ignorant for +what purpose I came. I had already suffered +much in the Lapland part of Umoea +for want of knowing the language. Nor +was my companion wanted less to assist me +in carrying what was necessary, for I had +sufficient incumbrances of my own, without +being the bearer of our provisions into the +bargain.</p> + +<p>On my first ascending these wild alps, +I felt as if in a new world. Here were no +forests to be seen, nothing but mountains +upon mountains, larger and larger as I advanced, +all covered with snow. No road, +no tracks, nor any signs of inhabitants +were visible. The verdure of summer +seemed to shun this frozen region, retiring +into the deep valleys between the mountains. +I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, +which the Laplanders call <i>Cheruna</i> +(<i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>), running with their young +along the vales. The delightful season of<!-- Page 259 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +spring, whose cheering influence on man and +all living nature I had so lately experienced +in the beginning of my journey, seemed +an alien here. The declining sun never +disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling +shade, and by climbing to the more +elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I +could see it at midnight above the horizon. +When I cast my eyes over the grass and +herbage, there were few objects I had seen +before, so that all nature was alike strange +to me. I sat down to collect and describe +these vegetable rarities, while the time +passed unperceived away, and my interpreter +was obliged to remind me that we +had still five or six miles to go to the +nearest Laplander, and that if we had a +mind for any rein-deer meat, we ought to +bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded +therefore up and down the snowy hills, +sometimes passing along their precipitous +sides, which was the most difficult travelling +of all, and for many a long way we +walked over heaps of stones. About the<!-- Page 260 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> +evening of the following day we reached +the nearest spot where any Laplander was +at that time settled. The man we met +with gave me a very good reception, and +furnished me with a couple of rein-deer +skins to sleep between. Immediately after +my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven +or eight hundred head of rein-deer, came +home. These were milked, and some of +the milk was boiled for my entertainment, +but it proved rather too rich for my stomach. +My host furnished me with his +own spoon, which he carried in his tobacco-bag. +On my expressing a wish, through +my interpreter, to have the spoon washed, +my Lapland friend immediately complied, +taking a mouthful of water, and spitting +it over the spoon.</p> + +<p>After having satisfied my hunger, and +refreshed myself with sleep, I steered my +course directly South-west, towards the +alps of Pithoea, proceeding from thence +to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge +of the country. A walk of scarcely above<!-- Page 261 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> +four or five miles further brought me to +the western edge of this ridge, for I was +desirous of examining that side of the +mountains, to see how it agreed with the +eastern part. I had no sooner arrived at +the icy mountains than a storm overtook +me, accompanied by a shower of thin +pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy +crust over my own clothes and those of +my conductor. The severity of the cold +obliged me to borrow the gloves and +<i>lappmudd</i> (coat of rein-deer skin) from the +man who accompanied me. But the weather +proved more favourable as soon as we +had crossed the summit of the ridge. +From hence the verdant appearance of +Norway, lying far beneath us, was very +delightful. The whole country was perfectly +green, and, notwithstanding its vast +extent, looked like a garden in miniature, +for the tallest trees appeared not above a +span high. As we began to descend the +alps, it seemed as if we should soon arrive +at the lower country, but our calculations<!-- Page 262 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> +were very inadequate to what we found its +actual distance. At length, however, we +reached the plains of which we had enjoyed +so stupendous a prospect. Nothing +could be more delightful to my feelings +than this transition, from all the severity +of winter, to the warmth and beauty of +summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented +clover, the tall grass reaching up +to my arms, the grateful flavour of the +wild fruits, and the fine weather which +welcomed me to the foot of the alps, +seemed to refresh me both in mind and +body.</p> + +<p>Here I found myself close to the sea +coast. I took up my abode at the house +of a ship-master, with whom I made an +agreement to be taken in a boat, the following +day, along the coast. I much +wished to approach the celebrated whirlpool, +called the <i>Maelstrom</i>, but I could +find nobody willing to venture near it.</p> + +<p>We set sail the next morning according +to appointment, but the wind proved con<!-- Page 263 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span>trary, +and the boat-men were, after a while, +exhausted with rowing. Meantime I +amused myself in examining various petrifactions, +zoophytes, and submarine plants +of the <i>Fucus</i> tribe, which occupied every +part of the coast. In the evening I arrived +at the house of Mr. Rask, the pastor +of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception.</p> + +<p>Next day we proceeded further on our +voyage; but the contrary wind exhausted +our patience, and we veered about, soon +reaching the place from whence we had +first set out, the wind being directly in our +favour for that purpose.</p> + +<p>On the following morning I climbed +one of the neighbouring mountains, with +the intention of measuring its height. +While I was reposing in perfect tranquillity +on the side of the hill, busied only in +loosening a stone which I wanted to examine, +I heard the report of a gun at a +small distance below. I was however too +far off to receive any hurt, so, thanks to<!-- Page 264 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be +easily imagined. Perceiving the man who had +fired the gun, I pursued him to a considerable +distance, in order to prevent his charging +his piece a second time, and I determined +never to go there again without +some protection. I inquired who it could +be that had made this unprovoked attack, +but I found it impossible to gain any information +on the subject.</p> + +<p>On the 15th of July<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> we set out on our +return, and that whole day was employed +in climbing the mountains again, to our +no small fatigue and exhaustion, the ground +we had to pass over being so extremely +steep as well as lofty. When we reached +the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had +sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves.</p> + +<p>From hence we turned our course towards +the alps of Tornea, which were de<!-- Page 265 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>scribed +to me as about forty miles distant. +What I endured in the course of this journey +is hardly to be described. How many +weary steps was I obliged to set to climb +the precipices that came in my way, and +how excessive were my perspiration and +fatigue! Nor were these the worst evils +we had to encounter before we reached +Caituma. Sometimes we were enveloped +with clouds, so that we could not see before +us; sometimes rivers impeded our +progress, and obliged us either to choose +a very circuitous path, or to wade naked +through the cold snow water. This fresh +snow water however proved a most welcome +and salutary refreshment, for without +it we should never have been able to encounter +the excessive heat of the weather. +Water was our only drink during this journey, +but it never proved so refreshing as +when we sucked it out of the melting snow. +Having nearly reached the Lapland village +of Caituma, the inhabitants of which<!-- Page 266 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +seemed perfectly wild, running away from +their huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, +from a considerable distance, +I began to be tired of advancing further +up into this inhospitable country. We +had not at this time tasted bread for several +days, the stock we had brought with +us being entirely exhausted. The rich +milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be +eaten without bread, and the ordinary or +second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree +of costiveness as I could no longer +endure. I determined therefore to return +towards Quickjock, which was forty miles +from this spot. In the course of my journey +thither, walking rather carelessly over +the snow, without noticing a hole which the +water had made, I fell through the icy +crust into the deep snow. The interpreter +and guide were totally unable to assist me, +the cavity in which I lay being very steep, +and so hollowed out by the water that it +surrounded me like a wall. It was not in<!-- Page 267 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> +their power to reach me without a rope, +which they luckily were able to procure to +drag me out of the hole. I had received +a blow on my thigh in the fall, the effects +of which I felt for a month afterwards. +One of my guides had met with a similar +accident but a week before.</p> + +<p>At length we arrived at Quickjock, after +having been four weeks without tasting +bread. Those who have not experienced +the want of this essential support of life, +can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be +deprived of it so long, even with a superfluity +of all other kinds of food. I remained +four days at Quickjock to recruit +my strength, and afterwards descended +the river again to Lulea. There being no +boat to be had north of Purkijaur, we were +obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. +Our voyage was very perilous, for the wind +and current both combined to overset us, +so that it was not without the greatest exertion +we saved ourselves, and it being night, +nobody heard our cries for assistance.<!-- Page 268 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span></p> + +<p>The next day I was conducted to the +river of Calatz, to see the manner of fishing +for pearls, and on the 30th of July +arrived at Lulea.</p> + +<p>Here I rested for a day or two, then +proceeded to Tornea, and from thence +to Kimi, and some way up the river of +that name. Afterwards I entered East +Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish +language, I found it inconvenient to +proceed, and preferred returning four miles +back again. I made several excursions to +an adjacent island. At the town of Calix +I became acquainted with the judge of a +neighbouring district, and we accompanied +each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded +in a boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, +and within four miles of Juckesceni; but +as the frost was beginning to set in very +hard, it being late in autumn, and there +being nothing, as far as I could discover, +very remarkable to see, I descended the +river again in the same boat, and had a +quick passage back. Having noted down<!-- Page 269 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +the Finnish names for such articles as I +should be most likely to want at the inns, +I ventured once more to enter East Bothland, +in order to pursue my journey that +way homeward. I considered that in a +new country there is always something new +to be seen, and that to travel the same +road I had come, would probably afford +but little entertainment or instruction. I +had still less inclination, at this advanced +season of the year, to encounter the hazard +of a sea voyage. Several merchants +who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, +had long been waiting for a fair +wind.</p> + +<p>I therefore pursued my way along the +coast through East Bothland and Finland, +visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New +Carleby, Wasa, Christina, Biorreborg and +Abo, remaining four days at the place last +mentioned. I then went by the post yacht +to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and +on the 10th of October reached Upsal.</p> + +<p>The whole extent of my journey amounts<!-- Page 270 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 English +miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined.</p> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Journey itinerary with distances in miles."> +<tr><th align="left"></th><th align="right">Miles.</th></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From Upsal to Umoea</td><td align="right">60</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Umoea to Lycksele</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark</td><td align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From thence again to Umoea</td><td align="right">37</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From Umoea to Pithoea</td><td align="right">22</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Pithoea to Longoen</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Back again to Pithoea</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From thence to Lulea</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Lulea to Quickjock</td><td align="right">33</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea</td><td align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From thence to the Norway coast</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Excursion by sea, and back again,</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From Norway to Caitum</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From Caitum to Quickjock</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Quickjock to Tornea</td><td align="right">47</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tornea to Kimi</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">From hence to Maxaniemi</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Maxaniemi to Calix</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Calix to Kengis</td><td align="right">32</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Kengis to Jonesvando</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Jonesvando to Tornea</td><td align="right">26</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tornea to Abo</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Abo to Upsal</td><td align="right" class="bb">40</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="right">633</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><!-- Page 271 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span></p> + +<p>(The account of the expenses of this +journey, and observations on the advantages +to be derived from it, both promised +in the beginning of this "brief narrative," +are not found in the manuscript.)<!-- Page 272 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_II" id="APPENDIX_II"></a>APPENDIX. +<br /> +N<sup>o</sup> II.</h2> + + +<p>The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's +"Observations made with a view to +determine the height of the Lapland Alps," +p. 45, &c., was translated from the Swedish +by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly +communicated it to the editor, expressing +a wish that it might accompany the present +publication. To fulfil this desire is now +become a duty. It is with a melancholy +satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication +I ever received from this excellent +and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the work +of his master. Many remarks from him +have assisted me in the course of this undertaking, +and if I could have submitted +the whole to his inspection before it went<!-- Page 273 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> +to press, many inaccuracies, which a foreigner +could scarcely avoid, might have +been corrected by a native Swede, a man +too so supremely accurate, and so conversant +with every part of the subject. But +this the various and unremitting employments +of my deceased friend rendered impracticable, +and I could only take advantage +of what he had it in his power to bestow, +in casual conversations, or in answer +to the questions I was now and then obliged +to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on +all occasions, to satisfy, because, to use his +own words, he knew they were "likely to +be of use."</p> + +<p>The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg +display a singular acuteness of observation. +They are a complete picture, +drawn by a masterly hand, not only to +the adept in Natural History, but to every +one who has the least taste for beholding +the face of Nature, under its most striking +and unusual aspects. The able author is, +as yet, but slightly known to English read<!-- Page 274 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>ers, +even in the more technical part of +his science. What we are now to lay before +them gives a promise of his taking a +high rank amongst writers of a superior +and more generally interesting class, one +of those in short who touch upon no subject +without enriching it.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided +into eight sections, each of which describes +a separate line of elevation.</p> + +<p>1. On approaching the Lapland Alps +(<i>Fjäll</i>), we first arrive at the line where +the Spruce Fir, <i>Pinus Abies</i>, ceases to +grow. This tree had previously assumed +an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender +pole, covered from the ground with +short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy +object in these desolate forests! The <i>Rubus +arcticus</i> had already, before we arrived +at this point, ceased to bring its fruit +to maturity. With the Spruce we lose the +<i>Rosa cinnamomea</i>, <i>Convallaria bifolia</i>, &c.; +and the borders of the lakes are stripped<!-- Page 275 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> +of their ornaments of <i>Arundo Phragmites</i>, +<i>Lysimachia thyrsiflora</i>, <i>Galium boreale</i>, +and <i>Carex globularis</i>. Here is the true +station of <i>Tussilago nivea</i> (Willd. Sp. Pl. +v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are +seen in the rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch +is to be found in the lakes higher up. The +boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet +below the line of perpetual snow, and the +mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's +thermometer (37½ of Fahrenheit).</p> + +<p>2. Scotch Firs (<i>Pinus sylvestris</i>) are still +found, but not near so tall as in the lower +country. Their stems here are low, and +their branches widely extended. Here are +seen the last of <i>Ledum palustre</i>, <i>Salix +pentandra</i>, <i>Veronica serpyllifolia</i>, &c. The +bogs have already a very steril appearance. +Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir +grows <i>Phaca alpina</i>. Higher up are hardly +any Bears to be met with, and the berries of +<i>Vaccinium Myrtillus</i> (the Bilberry) do not +ripen well. <i>Salmo Lavaretus</i> (the Gwiniad), +and <i>S. Thymallus</i> (the Grayling),<!-- Page 276 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> +soon after disappear from the lakes. The +upper limit of this zone, when the Scotch +Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of +perpetual snow, and the mean temperature +about 2,°5 of Celsius (36½ of Fahrenheit.) +A little below this point, or about 3000 +feet before we come to perpetual snow, +Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, +the occupiers of which live by grazing and +fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet +higher, for instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, +and so far also potatoes and turnips +grow large enough to be worth cultivating.</p> + +<p>3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted +forests consist only of Birch. Its short +thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, +knotty branches, seem prepared to resist +the strong winds from the alps. Its lively +light green hue is delightful to the eye, +but evinces a weakness of vegetation. +These Birch forests soon become so low, +that they may be entirely commanded +from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost +boundary, where the tallest of the<!-- Page 277 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> +trees are not equal to the height of a man, +is 2000 feet below the line of perpetual +snow. This zone is therefore much wider +than the preceding. Long before its termination +<i>Alnus incana</i>, <i>Prunus Padus</i>, +and <i>Populus tremula</i>, were no more to be +seen. A little before the Birch ceases, we +miss the <i>Sorbus Aucuparia</i> (<i>Pyrus Aucuparia</i>, +Fl. Brit.) which for some time had +not presented us with any fruit; the <i>Rubus +arcticus</i> already likewise barren; <i>Erica +vulgaris</i>, <i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i>, &c. Where +the Birch forest becomes thinner, the reflection +of the heat from the sides of the +mountains is the strongest. Here in many +spots we find the vegetation of <i>Sonchus +alpinus</i>, <i>Struthiopteris</i>, and <i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i> +remarkably luxuriant. The drier +spots now become covered with <i>Lichen +rangiferinus</i>. <i>Tussilago frigida</i> and <i>Pedicularis +Sceptrum-Carolinum</i> have their +place to the utmost boundary of the Birch. +Thus far only Charr (<i>Salmo alpinus</i>) is<!-- Page 278 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> +found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing +ceases.</p> + +<p>4. All mountains above this limit are +called <i>Fjäll</i> (Alps). Near rivulets and on +the margins of bogs only, is found a little +brush-wood, consisting of <i>Salix glauca</i>, +whose grey hue affords but little ornament +to the landscape. The lower country is covered +with the dark-looking <i>Betula nana</i>, +which still retains its upright posture. A +few Juniper bushes, and some plants of +<i>Salix hastata</i>, are found scattered about. +Every hill is covered with <i>Arbutus alpina</i>, +variegated with <i>Andromeda cærulea</i> and +<i>Trientalis europæa</i>. The more boggy +ground is decorated with <i>Andromeda polifolia</i> +in its greatest beauty, and <i>Pedicularis +lapponica</i>. On the sides of the mountains, +where the reflected heat has the +greatest power, grow <i>Veronica alpina</i>, +<i>Viola biflora</i>, <i>Pteris crispa</i>, and <i>Angelica +Archangelica</i>. This zone extends within +1400 feet of the line of perpetual snow.<!-- Page 279 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> +The Glutton (<i>Mustela Gulo</i>) goes no higher +than this. The berries of <i>Rubus Chamæmorus</i> +still ripen here, but not at a greater +degree of elevation.</p> + +<p>5. Now no more brushwood is to be +seen. The white <i>Salix lanata</i> is not above +two feet high, even about the rivulets, and +<i>Salix myrsinites</i> is of still more humble +growth. <i>Betula nana</i> occupies the drier +situations, but creeps entirely upon the +ground. The hills are clothed with the +rather brown than green <i>Azalea procumbens</i> +and <i>Azalea lapponica</i>, which give this +zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant +spots between the precipices, where the +sun has the greatest power, produce <i>Lychnis +apetala</i>, <i>Erigeron uniflorum</i>, <i>Astragalus +leontinus</i><a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> and <i>montanus</i>, with <i>Ophrys +alpina</i>. In boggy places <i>Aira alpina</i>, <i>Carex +ustulata</i>, and <i>Vaccinium uliginosum</i> +are observable. The only berries however +which ripen at this degree of elevation, are<!-- Page 280 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +those of <i>Empetrum nigrum</i>; but these +are twice as large as what grow in the +woodlands, and better flavoured. The +upper boundary of this zone is 800 feet +below the line of perpetual snow. The +Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents +higher up, as the pasture for their reindeer +ceases a very little way above this point. +The mean temperature is about +1° of +Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).</p> + +<p>6. Next come the snowy alps, where +are patches of snow that never melt. +The bare places between still produce a +few dark shrubby plants, such as <i>Empetrum +nigrum</i>, but destitute of berries, <i>Andromeda +tetragona</i> and <i>hypnoides</i>, as well +as <i>Diapensia lapponica</i>. Green precipices +exposed to the sun are decorated with the +vivid azure tints of <i>Gentiana tenella</i> and +<i>nivalis</i>, and <i>Campanula uniflora</i>, accompanied +by the yellow <i>Draba alpina</i>. Colder +and marshy situations, where there is no +reflected heat, produce <i>Pedicularis hirsuta</i> +and <i>flammea</i>, with <i>Dryas octopetala</i>. This<!-- Page 281 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of +perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow.</p> + +<p>7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to +cover the greatest part of the ground, and +we soon arrive at a point where only a few +dark spots are here and there to be seen. +This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock +at the elevation of 4100 feet above the +sea; but nearer the highest ridge, and +particularly on the Norway side of that +ridge, at 3100 feet. Some few plants, +with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered +over the spongy brown surface of the +ground, where the reflected heat is +strongest, quite up to the line of uninterrupted +snow. These are <i>Saxifraga stellaris</i>, +<i>rivularis</i> and <i>oppositifolia</i>, <i>Ranunculus +nivalis</i> and <i>glacialis</i>, <i>Rumex digynus</i>, +<i>Juncus curvatus</i><a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> and <i>Silene acaulis</i>. The +mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual +snow is +0,°4 of Celsius, (32¾ of +Fahrenheit).</p> +<p><!-- Page 282 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></p> +<p>8. Above the line of perpetual snow, +the cold is occasionally so much diminished, +that a few plants of <i>Ranunculus +glacialis</i>, and other similar ones, may now +and then be found, in the clefts of some +dark rock rising through the snow. This +happens even to the height of 500 feet +above that line. Further up the snow is very +rarely moistened. Yet some umbilicated +Lichens (<i>Gyrophoræ</i>), &c., still occur in +the crevices of perpendicular rocks, even +to the height of 2000 feet above the line +of perpetual snow. These are the utmost +limits of all vegetation, where the mean +temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius +(30 of Fahrenheit). The Snow Bunting, +<i>Emberiza nivalis</i>, is the only living being +that visits this elevated spot.<!-- Page 283 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> + +<h4>A.</h4> + +<ul> +<li>Abo, ii. <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> +<li><i>Acer platanoides</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li>Aconite, yellow, i. 36.</li> +<li><i>Aconitum lycoctonum</i>, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>Adam and Eve, i. 28.</li> +<li><i>Adoxa moschatellina</i>, i. 37.</li> +<li><i>Agaricus</i>, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> +<li><i>Agrostis arundinacea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>rubra</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> +<li>Agues, i. 29, 180.</li> +<li><i>Aira alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>Aland, ii. <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> +<li><i>Alca Torda</i>, i. 64, 65.</li> +<li>Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Alnus incana</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Alopecurus geniculatus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> +<li>Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-81, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> +<li>—— Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> +<li><!-- Page 284 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span><i>Amanita</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> +<li>Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. <a href="#Page_50">50</a>-58.</li> +<li><i>Anas arctica</i>, i. 65.</li> +<li><i>Andromeda cærulea</i>, i. 272. ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>hypnoides</i>, i. 320. ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>polifolia</i>, i. 23, 188, 189.</li> +<li>—— <i>tetragona</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Anemone Hepatica</i>, i. 11, 32. ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>ranunculoides</i>, i. 11.</li> +<li>—— <i>vernalis</i>, i. 15.</li> +<li><i>Angelica Archangelica</i>, i. 171. ii. <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>sylvestris</i>, i. 171, 316. ii. <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</li> +<li>Angermanland, i. 48.</li> +<li>Animals of the alps, ii. <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</li> +<li><i>Anthericum calyculatum</i>, i. 257.</li> +<li><i>Apis terrestris</i>, i. 159.</li> +<li>Apple-trees, i. 61.</li> +<li><i>Arabis thaliana</i>, i. 33.</li> +<li><i>Aranea palustris</i>, }</li> +<li>—— <i>riparia</i>, } i. 258.</li> +<li><i>Arbutus alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Uva ursi</i>, i. 7, 23, 250.</li> +<li><i>Ardea cinerea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> +<li><i>Arena Glarea</i>, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166.</li> +<li>—— <i>mobilis</i>, i. 16.</li> +<li><i>Artemisia vulgaris</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> +<li><i>Arum</i>, i. 200.</li> +<li><i>Arundo Calamagrostis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Phragmites</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><!-- Page 285 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>Ash, i. 68.</li> +<li>Aspen, i. 77, 179.</li> +<li><i>Aspidium Filix-fœmina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li><i>Asplenium Trichomanes</i>, i. 55.</li> +<li><i>Astragalus alpinus</i>, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>leontinus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>montanus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li><i>Azalea lapponica</i>, i. 299. ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>procumbens</i>, i. 285. ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>B.</h4> +<ul><li> +<i>Bannisteria.</i> See <i>Diapensia</i>.</li> +<li>Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77.</li> +<li>—— pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169.</li> +<li>—— willow used for tanning, i. 80.</li> +<li>—— birch used for tanning, i. 249.</li> +<li>Barley, i. 57, 67, 73.</li> +<li><i>Bartramia fontana</i>, i. 181-184.</li> +<li>—— <i>pomiformis</i>, i. 13, 38.</li> +<li><i>Bartsia alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</li> +<li>Bears, ii. <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>Beaver, i. 88-91.</li> +<li>Beech, i. 68.</li> +<li><i>Betula alba</i>, i. 48.</li> +<li>—— <i>incana</i>, i. 48. ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>nana</i>, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li><i>Bicornes</i>, i. 22.</li> +<li><!-- Page 286 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208.</li> +<li>Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li> +<li>—— dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139.</li> +<li>Bird-traps, i. 179.</li> +<li><i>Bixa Orelana</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> +<li>Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217.</li> +<li>Boat, Lapland, i. 98.</li> +<li>Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167.</li> +<li><i>Boletus igniarius</i>, used as a pincushion, i. 85.</li> +<li>—— <i>suaveolens</i>, employed as a perfume, i. 151.</li> +<li>Bothland, East, ii. <a href="#Page_151">151</a>-166, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>-232.</li> +<li>Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201.</li> +<li>Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</li> +<li><i>Brassica oleracea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> +<li>Bream, i. 27.</li> +<li><i>Bryum bimum</i>, i. 185.</li> +<li>—— <i>pomiforme</i>, i. 13.</li> +<li>Buck-bean, i. 86, 200.</li> +<li>Buck-wheat, i. 166.</li> +<li>Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> +<li>Burnet, i. 220.</li> +<li>Butter, i. 110.</li> +<li><i>Byssus</i>, i. 84, 156.</li> +<li>—— <i>cryptarum</i>, i. 47, 55.</li> +<li>—— <i>flos aquæ</i>, i. 4.</li> +<li>—— <i>Jolithus</i>, i. 26.</li> +<li><!-- Page 287 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>—— red, i. 26.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>C.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Calla palustris</i>, i. 200, 245, 350.</li> +<li><i>Callitriche autumnalis</i>, i. 62.</li> +<li>—— <i>verna</i>, i. 62.</li> +<li><i>Caltha palustris</i>, i. 5, 68.</li> +<li><i>Cameraria</i>, i. 176.</li> +<li><i>Campaniformes</i>, i. 10.</li> +<li><i>Campanula persicifolia</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>serpyllifolia</i>, i. 20, 37.</li> +<li>—— <i>uniflora</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Canis Vulpes</i>, i. 71.</li> +<li>Caper, Swedish, i. 5.</li> +<li><i>Carex</i>, i. 5, 167.</li> +<li>—— <i>cæspitosa</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>globularis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>panicea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>sylvatica</i>, i. 276. ii. <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>ustulata</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> +<li>Cataract of Elf-Carleby, i. 12.</li> +<li>Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52.</li> +<li>Chaff, eaten by the peasants, i. 169.</li> +<li><i>Chamædaphne</i>, i. 188.</li> +<li>Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363.</li> +<li><i>Charadrius Hiaticula</i>, i. 93, 323.</li> +<li>Charr, i. 128. ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197.</li> +<li><!-- Page 288 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>Cherries, i. 62.</li> +<li><i>Chrysomela graminis</i>, i. 48.</li> +<li>—— <i>lapponica</i>, i. 77.</li> +<li><i>Chrysosplenium alternifolium</i>, i. 9.</li> +<li>Church tyranny, i. 157.</li> +<li>Church at Lulea, i. 239.</li> +<li><i>Cicindela sylvatica</i>, i. 175.</li> +<li><i>Cicuta virosa</i>, i. 246. ii. <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li> +<li>Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62.</li> +<li>Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158.</li> +<li>Clay, i. 31, 73.</li> +<li>Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203.</li> +<li>Club-moss, i. 20.</li> +<li><i>Coccinella trifasciata</i>, i. 179.</li> +<li>Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93.</li> +<li><i>Colymbus arcticus</i>, i. 27, 176. ii. <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>auritus</i>, i. 118.</li> +<li><i>Comarum palustre</i>, i. 158.</li> +<li><i>Confervæ</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li><i>Convallaria bifolia</i>, i. 58. ii. <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> +<li>Cookery, i. 248;</li> +<li><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">performed by the men, i. 132.</span></li> +<li><i>Coralloides</i>, i. 8, 84.</li> +<li><i>Corallorrhiza</i>, i. 223, 245. ii. <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> +<li>Corals, petrified, i. 30.</li> +<li><i>Cornus suecica</i>, i. 177, 189.</li> +<li><i>Corvus Cornix</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>glandarius</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>infaustus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> +<li><i>Cos molaris</i>, i. 30.</li> +<li><!-- Page 289 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>Costmary, i. 220.</li> +<li>Cotton-Rush, i. 68.</li> +<li>Cradles, different kinds of, i. 190.</li> +<li>Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> +<li>Cranberries, i. 208.</li> +<li>Cranes, i. 94.</li> +<li>Cross-bills, i. 70.</li> +<li>Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62.</li> +<li><i>Cuculus canorus</i>, i. 23, 319.</li> +<li><i>Culex pipiens</i>, i. 159.</li> +<li>—— <i>pulicaris</i>, i. 238, 251.</li> +<li>—— <i>reptans</i>, i. 209, 251. ii. <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</li> +<li><i>Cypræa</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li> +<li><i>Cyprinus Aphya</i>, i. 102.</li> +<li>—— <i>Brama</i>, i. 27.</li> +<li><i>Cypripedium Calceolus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>D.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Daphne</i>, i. 23.</li> +<li><i>Dermestes murinus</i>, i. 206.</li> +<li><i>Diapensia lapponica</i>, i. 285. ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Dillenia</i>. See <i>Azalea</i>.</li> +<li>Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-35.</li> +<li>—— of cattle, i. 245.</li> +<li>Diver, black-throated, i. 27.</li> +<li><i>Draba alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>verna</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li>Dress, travelling, of Linnæus, i. 1.</li> +<li><!-- Page 290 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>—— of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326-335. ii. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>-150.</li> +<li><i>Dryas octopetala</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li>Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118.</li> +<li>Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170.</li> +<li><i>Dytiscus natator</i>, i. 100.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>E.</h4> +<ul> +<li>East Bothland, ii. <a href="#Page_151">151</a>-166, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>-232.</li> +<li>Elf-Carleby, i. 15.</li> +<li>Elm, common, i. 22, 68.</li> +<li><i>Elymus arenarius</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</li> +<li><i>Emberiza Hortulanus</i>, i. 71.</li> +<li>—— <i>nivalis</i>, i. 71. ii. <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> +<li><i>Empetrum nigrum</i>, i. 138, 139, 152. ii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Empis borealis</i>, i. 87, 179.</li> +<li><i>Ephemera</i>, i. 73, 177.</li> +<li><i>Epilobium augustifolium</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>palustre</i> β, i. 283.</li> +<li><i>Equisetum hyemale</i>, i. 121.</li> +<li><i>Erica vulgaris</i>, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Erigeron uniflorum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li><i>Eriophorum alpinum</i>, i, 177, 254.</li> +<li>—— <i>polystachion</i>, i. 68.</li> +<li>—— <i>vaginatum</i>, i. 68.</li> +<li><i>Erysimum Barbarea</i>, i. 255, 267. β, i. 72.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>F.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Festivals, i. 114, 157.</li> +<li>Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29.</li> +<li>Fir, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202.</li> +<li>—— spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202.</li> +<li>Fisheries, i. 128, 163.</li> +<li><!-- Page 291 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>Flax, i. 200.</li> +<li>Flesh-fly, i. 159.</li> +<li>Food of the Laplanders, i. 154.</li> +<li>Foxes, i. 71, 250.</li> +<li>Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79.</li> +<li><i>Fringilla Montifringilla</i>, i. 23, 29.</li> +<li>Frogs, imagined to live in a woman's stomach, i. 111.</li> +<li>Frog-spittle, i. 214.</li> +<li><i>Fucus</i>, i. 336. ii. <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li> +<li><i>Fumaria bulbosa minima</i>, i. 37.</li> +<li>Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>G.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231.</li> +<li>Gad-fly, i. 215.</li> +<li><i>Gadus virens</i>, i. 341.</li> +<li>Gale, sweet, i. 19.</li> +<li><i>Galium boreale</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><i>Gentiana nivalis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>tenella</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Geranium sylvaticum</i>, i. 283.</li> +<li>Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li> +<li><i>Glires</i>, i. 89.</li> +<li>Glirr, i. 102.</li> +<li>Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238.</li> +<li>Goosander, i. 94-96.</li> +<li>Granite, i. 9, 30, 35.</li> +<li>Grayling, i. 61.</li> +<li>Grebe, little-eared, i. 118.</li> +<li><!-- Page 292 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>Grous, black, i. 23.</li> +<li>Grous, wood, i. 179.</li> +<li>Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> +<li>Grundell, Baron, i. 70. ii. <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li> +<li><i>Gryllus domesticus</i>, i. 254.</li> +<li>Gulls, i. 75.</li> +<li>Gwiniad, small, i. 161.</li> +<li><i>Gyrophoræ</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>H.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hair-moss, great, i. 171, 191.</li> +<li>Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74.</li> +<li>Hare, i. 89.</li> +<li>Harness, rein-deer, i. 104.</li> +<li>Harr, i. 61.</li> +<li>Hazle, i. 62, 68.</li> +<li>Heart's ease, i. 41.</li> +<li>Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 56.</li> +<li><i>Hedera Helix</i>, i. 21.</li> +<li>Helsingland, i. 25.</li> +<li><i>Hepatica</i>, i. 11.</li> +<li><i>Hieracium Pilosella</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li><i>Hippophaë rhamnoides</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> +<li>Hobgoblins, supposed to inhabit the mountains, i. 221.</li> +<li>Hops, i. 36, 62.</li> +<li>Horns of the reindeer, i. 135.</li> +<li>Horsetail, naked, i. 121.</li> +<li><!-- Page 293 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>Househould œconomy of the Laplanders, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340. ii. <a href="#Page_5">5</a>-18, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>-26, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>-50.</li> +<li>Humble-bee, i. 159.</li> +<li><i>Humulus Lupulus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>Hunting the bear, ii. <a href="#Page_83">83</a>-85.</li> +<li>Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155.</li> +<li><i>Hyoscyamus niger</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> +<li><i>Hypnum parietinum</i>, i. 8.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>I.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Implements of husbandry, i. 65.</li> +<li>Insects at Bumoen, i. 200.</li> +<li>—— Lulea, i. 233.</li> +<li>—— Pithoea, i. 216.</li> +<li>—— Umoen, i. 192-194.</li> +<li><i>Iris Pseudacorus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>Ivy, i. 21.</li> +<li>Itinerary of Linnæus, ii. <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>J.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Jarf, i. 71.</li> +<li><i>Juncellus aquaticus</i>, i. 122.</li> +<li><i>Juncus campestris</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li>—— <i>curvatus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>trifidus</i>, i. 279.</li> +<li>—— <i>triglumis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> +<li>Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156.</li> +<li><i>Jussiea.</i> See <i>Sibbaldia</i>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>K.</h4> +<ul> +<li><!-- Page 294 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>Kettle, method of boiling, i. 198.</li> +<li>Kids, i. 10.</li> +<li>Kimi, ii. <a href="#Page_146">146</a>-151.</li> +<li>Korssraff, i. 71.</li> +<li>Kowall, i. 111.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>L.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Lady-bird, i. 179.</li> +<li><i>Lapis molaris</i>, i. 30.</li> +<li>Lapland Alps, i. 283-322. ii. <a href="#Page_1">1</a>-81, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> +<li>—— Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to determine the height of, ii. <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> +<li>Lapland minerals, ii. <a href="#Page_35">35</a>-37.</li> +<li>—— Norwegian, i. 322-335.</li> +<li>Laplanders' amusements, ii. <a href="#Page_50">50</a>-58.</li> +<li>—— character, i. 132.</li> +<li>—— dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326-335. ii. <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>-150.</li> +<li>—— diseases, ii. <a href="#Page_32">32</a>-35.</li> +<li>—— food, i. 154.</li> +<li>—— substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86.</li> +<li>—— household œconomy, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340, 341. ii. <a href="#Page_5">5</a>-18, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>-26, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>-50.</li> +<li>—— huts, i. 125-127, 155.</li> +<li>—— marriages, ii. <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-76.</li> +<li>—— shop, i. 119, 120.</li> +<li>—— weapons, i. 137.</li> +<li><!-- Page 295 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>Lark, i. 6.</li> +<li><i>Larus canus</i>, i. 75, 319.</li> +<li><i>Lathyrus palustris</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> +<li><i>Ledum palustre</i>, i. 23, 246. ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><i>Leontodon Taraxacum</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li><i>Leonurus Cardiaca</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> +<li><i>Lepas Balanoides</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li>—— <i>Balanus</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li><i>Lernea asellina</i>, i. 341.</li> +<li><i>Libellula forcipata</i>, i. 190.</li> +<li>—— <i>Virgo</i>, i. 190.</li> +<li><i>Lichen arcticus</i>, i. 31.</li> +<li>—— <i>byssoides</i>, i. 84.</li> +<li>—— <i>caninus</i>, i. 31.</li> +<li>—— <i>cocciferus</i>, i. 84.</li> +<li>—— <i>ericetorum</i>, i. 156.</li> +<li>—— <i>islandicus</i>, i. 24. ii. <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>jubatus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>nivalis</i>, i. 4, 85.</li> +<li>—— <i>omphalodes</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>rangiferinus</i>, i. 84, 161, 318. ii. <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>stygius</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>uncialis</i>, i. 82, 84.</li> +<li>—— <i>velleus</i>, i. 213.</li> +<li>Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, 161.</li> +<li><i>Ligusticum Levisticum</i>, i. 73.</li> +<li>Lime-tree, i. 68.</li> +<li>Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139.</li> +<li><!-- Page 296 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span><i>Linnæa borealis</i>, i. 21, 37, 203, 229.</li> +<li><i>Lithospermum arvense</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li><i>Lonicera Xylosteum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li><i>Loxia curvirostra</i>, i. 70.</li> +<li><i>Ludus Helmontii</i>, i. 8.</li> +<li>Lulea, i. 228-255.</li> +<li>Lulean Lapland, i. 256-283. ii. <a href="#Page_81">81</a>-130.</li> +<li>Lumme, i. 27, 176.</li> +<li><i>Lychnis alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>apetala</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>dioica</i>, i. 33.</li> +<li>—— <i>Viscaria</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.</li> +<li>Lycksele Lapland, i. 96-194.</li> +<li>—— parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> +<li><i>Lycopodium alpinum</i>, }</li> +<li>—— <i>clavatum</i>, } i. 20.</li> +<li>—— <i>complanatum</i>, }</li> +<li>—— <i>Selago</i>, }</li> +<li><i>Lycopsis arvensis</i>, i. 253.</li> +<li><i>Lysimachia thyrsiflora</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><i>Lythrum Salicaria</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>M.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131.</li> +<li>Maple, i. 68.</li> +<li>Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii. <a href="#Page_67">67</a>-76.</li> +<li>Meal-berry, i. 250.</li> +<li>Medelpad, i. 35.</li> +<li><!-- Page 297 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span><i>Medusa aurita</i>, i. 338.</li> +<li><i>Medusa capillata</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li>—— <i>cruciata</i>, i. 338.</li> +<li><i>Melampyrum pratense</i>, } i. 110, 111.</li> +<li>—— <i>sylvaticum</i>, }</li> +<li><i>Menyanthes trifoliata</i>, i. 86, 200, 352.</li> +<li><i>Mergus Merganser</i>, i. 94-96.</li> +<li><i>Mesomora</i>, i. 177, 189.</li> +<li><i>Mica</i>, i. 26, 247.</li> +<li>Mice, i. 89.</li> +<li><i>Michelia.</i> See <i>Azalea lapponica</i>.</li> +<li>Milk, i. 59, 242-244, 273, 317.</li> +<li>—— preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li> +<li>Minerals, ii. <a href="#Page_35">35</a>-37.</li> +<li>Mining, i. 195, 196.</li> +<li>Missne, i. 86.</li> +<li>Money-wort, i. 229.</li> +<li><i>Montia fontana</i>, i. 176.</li> +<li>Mosses, their fructification, i. 181-186.</li> +<li>Motacilla flava, i. 71.</li> +<li>Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li> +<li><i>Mures</i>, i. 89.</li> +<li><i>Mus Lemmus</i>, i. 102, 162, 303.</li> +<li><i>Musca carnaria</i>, i. 159.</li> +<li><i>Muscus lichenoides</i>, i. 213.</li> +<li>—— <i>tectorius</i>, i. 85.</li> +<li><i>Mustela Gulo</i>, i. 71. ii. <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li><i>Mya arenaria</i>, i. 237.</li> +<li>—— <i>margaritifera</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li> +<li><i>Myosotis scorpioides</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li><!-- Page 298 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span><i>Myrica Gale</i>, i. 19, 208.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>N.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Nardus stricta</i>, i. 236.</li> +<li><i>Narthecium ossifragum</i>, i. 257.</li> +<li>Norway, i. 335-366.</li> +<li>Norwegian Lapland, i. 322-335.</li> +<li><i>Nostoc</i>, i. 263.</li> +<li><i>Nux vomica</i>, i. 112.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>O.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Oak, i. 68.</li> +<li>Ochre, i. 62, 63.</li> +<li>Œconomy of the Torneans, ii. <a href="#Page_173">173</a>-182.</li> +<li><i>Œstrus nasalis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Tarandi</i>, i. 293. ii. <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> +<li><i>Oniscus aquaticus</i>, i. 206.</li> +<li><i>Ophrys alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>cordata</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> +<li>Orchis, palmated, i. 178.</li> +<li>Ore, silver, i. 246.</li> +<li><i>Orobus vernus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>Ortolans, i. 71.</li> +<li>Owls, i. 93, 204.</li> +<li>Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210.</li> +<li><i>Oxalis Acetosella</i>, i. 11, 58, 68.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>P.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Paris quadrifolia</i>, i. 138.</li> +<li><i>Pedicularis</i>, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>flammea</i>, i. 296. ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><!-- Page 299 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span>—— <i>hirsuta</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Pedicularis lapponica</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li><i>Perca fluviatilis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</li> +<li>Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364.</li> +<li><i>Pes pelicani</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li><i>Petromyzon fluviatilis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> +<li><i>Phaca alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><i>Phoca vitulina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> +<li><i>Phrygania bicaudata</i>, i. 74.</li> +<li><i>Pica lapponum</i>, i. 175.</li> +<li>Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162.</li> +<li>Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140.</li> +<li><i>Pinguicula</i>, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>villosa</i>, i. 255.</li> +<li><i>Pinus Abies</i>, i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>nodosa</i>, i. 214.</li> +<li>—— <i>plicata</i>, i. 7.</li> +<li>—— <i>sylvestris</i>, i. 25, 49. ii. <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.</li> +<li>Pipsten, i. 30.</li> +<li><i>Pisum maritimum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> +<li>Pithoea, i. 194-228. ii. <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> +<li>Plants at Calix, ii. <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> +<li>—— Flaskesele, i. 116, 117.</li> +<li>—— Gräno, i. 174.</li> +<li>—— Jö, ii. <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> +<li>—— Jockmock, i. 265, 266.</li> +<li>—— Kimi, ii. <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>-153.</li> +<li>—— Kiomitis, i. 269-272.</li> +<li>—— Koskesvari, i. 258-260.</li> +<li>—— Limingo, ii. <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> +<li><!-- Page 300 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>—— Lulea, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li> +<li>—— Sastmola, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li>—— Skargarden, i. 220, 221.</li> +<li>—— Torfiolme, i. 345.</li> +<li>—— Tornea, ii. <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>-144, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li> +<li>—— Umoea, i. 181-186.</li> +<li>—— Upland, i. 325.</li> +<li>—— Wallavari, i. 283-291, 293-303.</li> +<li>—— Wasa, ii. <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> +<li>—— Zangis, ii. <a href="#Page_128">128</a>-130.</li> +<li>Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98-100.</li> +<li>Plants and fishes near Pithoea, i. 222-228.</li> +<li>Plovers, ringed, i. 93.</li> +<li><i>Polygonum Fagopyrum</i>, i. 166.</li> +<li>—— <i>viviparum</i>, i. 282.</li> +<li><i>Polypodium</i>, i. 55.</li> +<li><i>Polytrichum</i>, i. 85, 191. ii. <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>commune</i>, i. 124, 171.</li> +<li><i>Populus tremula</i>, i. 77, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Potamogeton gramineum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</li> +<li>—— perfoliatum, ii. <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li> +<li>Potatoes, i. 62.</li> +<li><i>Poterium Sanguisorba</i>, i. 220.</li> +<li><i>Primula</i>, i. 5, 277.</li> +<li><i>Prunus Padus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>Ptarmigan, i. 35, 150.</li> +<li><i>Pteris crispa</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li><i>Pyrolæ</i>, i. 17.</li> +<li><i>Pyrus Aucuparia</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>Q.</h4> +<ul> +<li><!-- Page 301 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>Quicksand, i. 63.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>R.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Ranunculus acris</i>, i. 203.</li> +<li>—— <i>aquatilis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>glacialis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>lapponicus</i>, i. 156, 252.</li> +<li>—— <i>nivalis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li> +<li>Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121.</li> +<li>Reindeer, i. 68, 79, 103-110, 113, 127, 135, 161, 280, 307-314. ii. <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>-46, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> +<li>—— method of castrating, ii. <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li> +<li><i>Ribes alpinum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>rubrum</i>, i. 257.</li> +<li><i>Rosa cinnamomea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> +<li>Rocking children, various modes of, i. 190.</li> +<li><i>Rubus arcticus</i>, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Chamæmorus</i>, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>fruticosus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>idæus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>saxatilis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li>Ruffs and Reeves, i. 71.</li> +<li><i>Rumex Acetosa</i>, i. 102, 153, 315, 366.</li> +<li>—— digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li> +<li>Rye, i. 56, 57, 67.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>S.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Salix caprea</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li>—— <i>glauca</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>hastata</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Helix</i>, i. 17.</li> +<li>—— <i>lanata</i>, i. 77. ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li><!-- Page 302 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>—— <i>Lapponum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> +<li><i>Salix myrsinites</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>pentandra</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>phylicifolia</i>, i. 242.</li> +<li>—— <i>rosmarinifolia</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</li> +<li>Sallow-tree, i. 55.</li> +<li><i>Salmo Albula</i>, i. 161. ii. <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>alpinus</i>, i. 127, 305-307. ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Lavaretus</i>, i. 160. ii. <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Salar</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Thymallus</i>, i. 61. ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</li> +<li>Sandpipers, i. 93.</li> +<li><i>Satyrium viride</i>, i. 178.</li> +<li><i>Saxifraga</i>, i. 10. ii. <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li> +<li><i>Saxum fornacum</i>, i. 30.</li> +<li><i>Scarabæus</i>, i. 206.</li> +<li><i>Sceptrum Carolinum</i>, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Scheuchzeria palustris</i>, i. 257.</li> +<li><i>Schœnus Mariscus</i>, i. 150.</li> +<li><i>Scirpus cæspitosus</i>, i. 122, 150.</li> +<li>—— <i>maritimus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sciurus volans</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>vulgaris</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> +<li><i>Scolopax Gallinago</i>, i. 19.</li> +<li>Seals, remarks on, ii. <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sedum Telephium</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> +<li><i>Serratula alpina</i>, i. 259.</li> +<li>Shop, Laplander's, i. 119.</li> +<li><i>Sibbaldia procumbens</i>, i. 284.</li> +<li><!-- Page 303 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span><i>Silene acaulis</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sisymbrium Nasturtium</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li> +<li>Skelleftea, i. 203.</li> +<li>Skula, mountain, ii. <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> +<li>Sledge, i. 104.</li> +<li><i>Solanum Dulcamara</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li> +<li><i>Solidago Virgaurea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sonchus alpinus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>-79, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sorbus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li><i>Spergula arvensis</i>, i. 353.</li> +<li><i>Sphagnum</i>, i. 37, 139, 156, 165.</li> +<li>—— <i>palustre</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</li> +<li><i>Sphinx Filipendulæ</i>, i. 321.</li> +<li>Spiders, i. 23.</li> +<li>Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> +<li>Squirrels, i. 89, 176.</li> +<li><i>Stellaria minima</i>, i. 238.</li> +<li>—— <i>nemorum</i>, i. 279.</li> +<li><i>Strix Bubo</i>, i. 39, 210-213.</li> +<li>—— <i>Ulula</i>, i. 205.</li> +<li>Struthiopteris, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364.</li> +<li>Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244.</li> +<li>Swallows, i. 71.</li> +<li><i>Swammerdamia</i>, i. 237.</li> +<li>Swans, i. 94.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>T.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Talc, i. 42.</li> +<li><i>Talcum Ollaris</i>, i. 356.</li> +<li><!-- Page 304 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span><i>Tanacetum Balsamita</i>, i. 220.</li> +<li><i>Tanacetum vulgare</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> +<li>Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</li> +<li><i>Taxus baccata</i>, i. 11.</li> +<li>Tents of the mountain Laplanders, ii. <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> +<li><i>Tetrao Lagopus</i>, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Tetrix</i>, i. 23.</li> +<li>—— <i>Urogallus</i>, i. 78, 177, 179. ii. <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li> +<li><i>Thalictrum alpinum</i>, i. 277.</li> +<li>—— <i>flavum</i>, i. 138.</li> +<li><i>Thlaspi arvense</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li><i>Tilia europæa</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li> +<li><i>Tipula juniperi</i>, i. 21.</li> +<li>—— <i>rivosa</i>, i. 186.</li> +<li>Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's stomach, i. 112.</li> +<li>Tobacco, i. 62, 86.</li> +<li><i>Tofieldia palustris</i>, i. 257, 265, 366.</li> +<li>Tordmule, i. 64.</li> +<li><i>Tormentilla officinalis</i>, i. 155.</li> +<li>Tornea, ii. <a href="#Page_130">130</a>-146, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>-201.</li> +<li>—— œconomical remarks concerning the neighbourhood of, ii. <a href="#Page_173">173</a>-182.</li> +<li>Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180.</li> +<li>—— salmon, i. 206.</li> +<li>Trefoil, water, i. 86.</li> +<li><i>Tremella juniperina</i>, i. 175.</li> +<li><i>Trientalis</i>, i. 282. ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li><i>Tringa hypoleucos,</i> i. 117.</li> +<li>—— <i>pugnax</i>, i. 71.</li> +<li><!-- Page 305 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span><i>Tringæ</i>, i. 93.</li> +<li><i>Turdus iliacus</i>, i. 6, 23, 121, 176.</li> +<li><i>Tussilago frigida</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>nivea</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>V.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Vaccinium Myrtillus</i>, i. 23, 25, 35, 49, 124, 208. ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Oxycoccos</i>, i. 208.</li> +<li>—— <i>uliginosum</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>Vitis Idæa</i>, i. 23, 124, 137, 258.</li> +<li><i>Veronica alpina</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>serpyllifolia</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> +<li><i>Viburnum Opulus</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li> +<li><i>Vicia sylvatica</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> +<li><i>Viola biflora</i>, i. 138, 279. ii. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li> +<li>—— <i>canina</i>, i. 42.</li> +<li>—— <i>lactea</i>, i. 42.</li> +<li>—— <i>lutea</i>, i. 41.</li> +<li>—— <i>odorata</i>, i. 5.</li> +<li>—— <i>palustris</i>, i. 20, 45.</li> +<li>—— <i>tricolor</i>, i. 5, 41.</li> +<li>Violet, aquatic, i. 42.</li> +<li>—— marsh, i. 20, 45.</li> +<li>—— yellow, i. 138.</li> +<li><i>Viverra Lutreola</i>, ii. <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>U.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Ulvæ</i>, i. 336.</li> +<li>Umoea, i. 69, 178.</li> +<li>Upland, i. 2.</li> +<li><!-- Page 306 --><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>Upsal, i. 3. ii. <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>W.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Wagtail, water, i. 62.</li> +<li>Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine the height of the Lapland Alps, ii. <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> +<li>Wallavari mountain, ii. <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li> +<li>Wasp, i. 159.</li> +<li>Weapons, i. 137.</li> +<li>Well, mineral, i. 241.</li> +<li>West Bothland, i. 67.</li> +<li>Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137.</li> +<li>Willows, i. 61, 68, 80, 138, 249.</li> +<li>Winter-green, i. 17.</li> +<li>Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>X.</h4> +<ul> +<li><i>Xyphias Gladius</i>, i. 335.</li> +</ul> + +<h4>Y.</h4> +<ul> +<li>Yellow-hammer, i. 71.</li> +<li>Yew, i. 11.</li> +</ul> +<p class="center">THE END.</p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h2><a name="ERRATA" id="ERRATA"></a>ERRATA.</h2> + +<p>Vol i. p 134, line 11, read <i>set in</i>.</p> + +<p>206, line 3 from the bottom, for <i>Dean</i> read <i>principal clergyman</i>.</p> + +<p>246, line 16, read <i>some of the Nasaphiel silver ore</i>.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><i>Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe-Lane, London.</i></p> + + + +<hr class="long" /> +<h3><a name="Of_the_Publishers_of_this_Work_may_be_had_the_following" id="Of_the_Publishers_of_this_Work_may_be_had_the_following"></a><i>Of the Publishers of this Work may be had the following +Works, written or edited by</i> <span class="smcap">Dr. Smith</span>.</h3> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>1. <span class="smcap">Plantarum Icones hactenus ineditæ</span>, plerumque ad Plantas +in Herbario Linnæano conservatas delineatæ. Fascic. I. II. +III. Small Folio, each containing 25 Plates, Price Three Guineas +in Boards. 1789, &c.</p> + +<p>2. <span class="smcap">Caroli Linnæi Flora Lapponica</span>, exhibens Plantas per Lapponiam +crescentes, secundum Systema Sexuale, collectas in +Itinere Impensis Reg. Scient. Upsaliensis Anno 1782 instituto. +Additis Synonymis, et Locis Natalibus omnium, Descriptionibus +et Figuris rariorum, Viribus medicatis et œconomicis plurimarum. +Editio altera, aucta et emendata. 1792. In one +Volume Octavo, with a Frontispiece and Twelve Engravings. +12<i>s.</i> in Boards.</p> + +<p>3. <span class="smcap">A Sketch</span> of a <span class="smcap">Tour</span> on the <span class="smcap">Continent</span>. The Second Edition. +1807. 3 Vols. 8vo. Price 1£. 7<i>s.</i> in Boards.</p> + +<p>4. <span class="smcap">Tracts</span> relating to <span class="smcap">Natural History</span>, with coloured Plates. +8vo. 1798. 7<i>s.</i> Boards.</p> + +<p>5. <span class="smcap">Flora Britannica</span>, Vol. I. II. III. 8vo. 1800, &c. 1£. 6<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> +Boards.—The Fourth Volume of this Work will be published +as speedily as possible.</p> + +<p>6. <span class="smcap">Compendium Floræ Britannicæ</span>, Pars I. Crown 8vo. 3<i>s.</i> +sewed.—The Conclusion of this Work will appear with that of +the preceding.</p> + +<p>7. An <span class="smcap">Introduction</span> to <span class="smcap">Physiological</span> and <span class="smcap">Systematical Botany</span>. +Second Edition. 1809. 8vo. with 14 Plates. 14<i>s.</i> +Boards; or with the Plates coloured, 1£. 8<i>s.</i> in Boards.</p> + +<p>8. <span class="smcap">A Tour</span> to <span class="smcap">Hafod</span> in <span class="smcap">Cardiganshire</span>, the seat of <span class="smcap">Thomas +Johnes</span>, Esq., M. P.; beautifully printed by Beasley in Super-royal +Folio, and accompanied by <span class="smcap">Fifteen Views</span> (Size 20 +Inches by 13½) engraved in Aquatinta and coloured to imitate +the original drawings, by <span class="smcap">John Smith</span>. Price Twelve Guineas +in Boards.—Only 100 Copies are printed.</p> + +<p>9. <span class="smcap">Flora Græca</span>: sive Plantarum rariorum Historia, quas in Provinciis +aut Insulis Græciæ legit, investigavit, et depingi curavit +<span class="smcap">Johannes Sibthorp</span>, M. D. S. S. Reg. et Linn. Lond. Socius, +Bot. Professor Regius in Academia Oxoniensi. Hic illic etiam +insertæ sunt pauculæ Species quas Vir idem clarissimus, Græciam +versus navigans, in Itinere, præsertim apud Italiam et Siciliam, +invenerit. Characteres omnium, Descriptiones et Synonyma +elaboravit <span class="smcap">Jacobus Edvardus Smith</span>, M. D. &c. Fasciculi I. +et II. Folio (forming the First Volume.) with 50 beautifully coloured +Engravings in each, Price Twelve Guineas each in Boards.—The +Third Fasciculus is in considerable Forwardness.</p> + +<p>10. <span class="smcap">Prodromus Flore Græcæ</span>, Pars I. et II. (forming the First +Volume) Royal 8vo. 10<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> each Part in Boards.</p></div> + + +<p><i>Also published by</i> <span class="smcap">White</span> <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">Cochrane</span>,</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The <span class="smcap">Life</span> of Sir <span class="smcap">Charles Linnæus</span>. To which are added, a copious +List of his Works, and a Biographical Sketch of the Life of +his Son, by <span class="smcap">D. H. Stoever</span>. Translated from the original German +by <span class="smcap">Joseph Trapp</span>, A. M. Handsomely printed in Quarto, +with a Portrait, Price One Guinea in Boards.—A few Copies in +Royal Quarto, Price 1£, 11<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p></div> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The discovery of the plant in question is related +in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i> in so interesting a manner, +that we cannot refrain from translating the passage. +See the second edition, p. 135. +</p><p> +"I met with this plant but once, and that throughout +a journey of four hours, over the celebrated +mountain of Wallivari in the district of Lulea, towards +a tract of country which lies about half way +between the northern and western part, where it grew +in great abundance. +</p><p> +"Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse +perspiration, facing the cold wind, at midnight; if +I may call it night when the sun was shining without +setting at all; still anxiously inquiring of my interpreter +how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which +I had for two hours been expecting, though I knew +not its precise situation; casting my eager eyes around +me in all directions, I perceived as it were the shadow +of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking +it for the <i>Empetrum</i>. But after going a few steps +further, an idea of its being something I was unacquainted +with came across my mind, and I turned +back; when I should again have taken it for the <i>Empetrum</i>, +had not its greater height caused me to consider +it with more attention. I know not what it is +that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the +night, as to render objects far less distinct than in the +middle of the day, though the sun shines equally bright. +The sun being near the horizon, spreads its rays in +such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely +protect our eyes: besides, the shadows of plants are +so infinitely extended, and so confounded with each +other, from the tremulous agitation caused by the +blustering wind, that objects very different in themselves +are scarcely to be distinguished from each other. +Having gathered one of these plants, I looked about +and found several more in the neighbourhood, all on +the north side, where they grew in plenty; but I +never met with the same in any other place afterwards. +As at this time they had lost their flowers, and were +ripening seed, it was not till after I had sought for a +very long time that I met with a single flower, which +was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with +five sharper divisions."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This strange passage is presumed to allude to a +little gun, four or five inches long, still shown in the +arsenal at Stockholm, with which vulgar report says +the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> It is not impossible that Linnæus might be misled +here by the prejudices of his time, or by those of +the people from whom he obtained his account.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The whole of this account of the hay consists, +in the manuscript, of such concise, disjointed, and +obscure notes, that we are by no means certain of +having preserved the exact sense.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge, +observes that "it is attached by a single trace or +thong, passing under the belly of the reindeer, and +fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's +neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to +his horns, serves, when pulled in a straight line, to +stop his course, or, when drawn toward either side, +to turn him in that direction. When this cord is +made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on +the back, it urges him to greater speed. The overturn +of the sledge, where the road is uneven, is prevented +by a stick, which serves, like the oar or paddle of a +boat, to guide its course."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Linnæus records this misfortune in his <i>Flora +Lapponica</i>, at n. 42, see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speaking +of <i>Arundo Calamagrostis</i>, he says he "presumes +the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no +opportunity of comparing his plant with books and +descriptions, having lost the specimen, with various +other natural productions, by being cast away as he +was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland." +The synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus +by memory applied, proves to be erroneous.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> This account does not agree with the description +in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, but is the most +correct.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> This also is correct.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> A few further remarks on the above subject, +printed in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, may be acceptable to +the English reader. +</p><p> +"This disease made no regular progress, nor was it +communicated by infection from one animal to another. +The cows are driven all together in the spring to feed +in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on the +other side of a creek of the river, in which I was informed +the greatest mortality happened. The symptoms +differ in different cases; but all the cattle, feeding +indiscriminately, are seized with a swelling of the +abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with +horrid bellowing, in the space of a few days. No person +dares venture to flay the recent carcases, it having +been found by experience that not only the hands, but +even the face, in consequence of the warm steams +from the body, became inflamed and gangrenous, and +that death finally ensued. +</p><p> +"I was asked whether this disease was a kind of +plague; whether the meadow in question produced +any venomous spiders; or whether the yellow-coloured +water was poisonous. +</p><p> +"That it was no plague appeared from its not being +contagious, and from the spring being its most fatal +season. I saw no spiders here, except what are common +throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow +sediment of the water any thing more than a common +innocent ochre of iron. +</p><p> +"I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was +taken to this meadow, than the <i>Cicuta</i> presented itself +before me, and explained the cause of all this +destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow +where the cattle are first seized with the distemper, +especially near the shore. The slightest observation +teaches us that brute animals distinguish, by natural +instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, from +such as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not +eat this Hemlock in summer or autumn; whence +few of them perish at those seasons, and such only as +devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an +inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned +out in the spring, partly from their eagerness for fresh +herbage, partly from their long fasting and starvation, +they seize with avidity whatever comes within their +reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient +to satisfy them; probably also it is in general more +succulent, immersed under water, and scarcely perceptibly +scented; so that they are unable to distinguish +the wholesome from the pernicious kinds. I remarked +every where that the radical leaves only were cropped, +no others; which confirmed what I have asserted. +In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same plant cut +with the hay for winter food; so that it is no wonder +if in that state some, even of the more cautious cattle, +are destroyed by it." <i>Fl. Lapp. ed.</i> 2. 76.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> This plant is not mentioned in the <i>Flora Lapponica</i>, +and the account annexed seems to belong to +<i>Ligusticum scoticum</i>, n. 107 of that work, with which +it well agrees.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Linnæus in this description denominates these +leaflets, whether of the general or partial involucrum, +<i>radii</i>, a term he always subsequently used for the +stalks of the umbels.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit to Tornea +in 1694, was accompanied by Count G. Douglas the +Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper Counsellor of Chancery, +J. Hoghusen Counsellor of the Board of War, +and some other learned men, and in the night between +the 13th and 14th of June saw, from the belfry +of the church, the midnight sun, at that time visible +there to a person placed on such an elevation. The +year following, Professors Bilberg and Spole were +sent to Tornea to repeat these observations. The royal +visit to Tornea was commemorated by a medal struck +on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the +king; on the reverse, a representation of the sun half +above the horizon, with this motto, <i>Soli inocciduo Sol +obvius alter</i>; and beneath, <i>Iter Regis ad Botniam Occidentalem</i>, +<i>Mense Junio</i> 1694.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <i>Stegerhusen.</i> I have not been able to make out +the precise meaning of this word.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> John Messenius, famous for his learning and his +misfortunes, was professor of law and politics at Upsal, +in the reign of the great Gustavus Adolphus, who +had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all his +wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and +hatred of some of the colleagues of this able man, especially +of John Rudbeck, a malignant though learned +theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify +Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius +to Stockholm, and made him a member of the new +council established there. The latter was formally accused +of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic +king Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual +prison, where he composed a great work entitled <i>Scandia +illustrata</i>, published at Stockholm between the +years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son +Arnold might be justified for detesting those who had +persecuted his illustrious father, but not for the folly +of expressing his feelings in satirical publications against +people in power. For this he paid with his life on the +scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, +suffered with him.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> In the Journal, <i>vol.</i> i. 101, Linnæus speaks of +Mr. Oladron as the curate of Lycksele, and his wife.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not +agree with the original journal, which therefore I have +followed. See the first page of this volume.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <i>Jacq. Ic. Rar. t. 154. Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1287.</i></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> We know not what species the author intends +by this name.</p></div> +</div> + +<div class="trans-note"> +<h3><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes"></a>Transcriber's Notes</h3> + +<p>Non-standard spellings have been retained as printed. These are listed as suspect typographical errors as follows:</p> + +<p>page 59: suspect typo "skain" for "skein" ( ... being wrapped round the hand like a skain of thread ...)</p> + +<p>page 73: suspect typo "basons" for "basins" (The fat part of the broth is first served up in basons.)</p> + +<p>page 182: changed "Servet-mjolk" to "Servet-mjölk".</p> + +<p>page 198 changed "close" to "closed" ( ... a trough, closed on all sides, ...)</p> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + +***** This file should be named 36059-h.htm or 36059-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/5/36059/ + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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0000000..3c6fd24 --- /dev/null +++ b/36059-h/images/i_219_tn.jpg diff --git a/36059-h/images/i_222.jpg b/36059-h/images/i_222.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4fa26d --- /dev/null +++ b/36059-h/images/i_222.jpg diff --git a/36059-h/images/i_222_tn.jpg b/36059-h/images/i_222_tn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdec652 --- /dev/null +++ b/36059-h/images/i_222_tn.jpg diff --git a/36059.txt b/36059.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8413299 --- /dev/null +++ b/36059.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6107 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lachesis Lapponica + A Tour in Lapland + +Author: Carl von Linné + +Editor: James Edward Smith + +Translator: Charles Troilius + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + + + + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + +In this Plain Text version symbols from the ASCII character set are +used, with the following substitutions for special typefaces and +characters: + + Italic typeface is represented by surrounding _underscores_. + Small caps typeface is represented by UPPER CASE. + Superscript characters are shown by a preceding carat symbol (^). + + [beta], [gamma], [lambda], [kappa] represent single greek characters. + [deg.] represents the degree symbol. + [L] represents the pound (currency) symbol. + [AE], [ae] represent ae-ligature (upper and lower case). + [OE], [oe] represent oe-ligature (upper and lower case). + [:a], [:e], [:o] represent a-umlaut, e-dieresis, o-umlaut. + [^a] represents a-circumflex. + [oa] represents a-ring. + [)a] represents a-breve. + +Archaic or inconsistent spellings, hyphenation and punctuation are +retained as printed except where typographical errors have been +corrected: any corrections are listed at the end of the book. + +Note that the contemporary style of capitalised species names are +retained as they appear in the original. + + * * * * * + + _Lachesis Lapponica_, + + OR A + + TOUR IN LAPLAND, + + NOW FIRST PUBLISHED + FROM THE + ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL + OF THE CELEBRATED + + LINN[AE]US; + + BY + + JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M.D. F.R.S. ETC. + PRESIDENT OF THE LINN[AE]AN SOCIETY. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + VOL. II. + + + "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus." + OVID. + + + _LONDON_: + PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD, + FLEET-STREET, + BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE. + + 1811. + + + + +JOURNEY TO LAPLAND. + + +In the latter part of this day, _July 15th_, I set out on my return from +the low grounds of Norway. The heat was very powerful as we began to +ascend the mountains. When we reached what had seemed to us from below +the summit of a hill, we saw just as lofty an eminence before us, and +this was the case nine or ten successive times. I had no idea of such +mountains before. The elevation of this hill cannot be taken by any +geometrical instrument, as the summit is not visible, even at some miles +distance. I believe its height must exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb +it was worse than going two miles any other way. Had we not frequently +met with such abundance of water, we should have been overcome with +fatigue. In this ascent I found the little _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_) with +a white flower, and the Little Gentian (_Gentiana nivalis_). + +Our clothes, which were wet quite through with perspiration, in +consequence of the heat we had encountered in the beginning of our +journey, were now frozen stiff upon our backs by the cold. We determined +to seek for a Laplander's hut. In order to get at one, we were obliged +to descend so steep a hill, that, being unable to walk down it, I lay +down on my back and slid along, with the rapidity of an arrow from a +bow. I avoided with difficulty the large snow torrents that every now +and then came in my way, and which were sometimes within an ell of me. + +On reaching this hut, I noticed some of the reindeer whose horns were +not above half an inch long, the Brom-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_) having +bitten them while quite tender; for these insects are, in the Norwegian +alps, worse than the gnats of Swedish Lapland. + +I here obtained a curious piece of information respecting the mode of +castrating the reindeer. When the animal is two years and a half old, +its owner, about a fortnight before Michaelmas, getting a person to +assist him by holding it fast by the horns, places himself betwixt its +hind legs. He then applies his teeth to the _scrotum_, so as to bruise +its contents, but not so as to break the skin, for in that case the +reindeer would die. He afterwards bruises the part still more +effectually between his fingers. The same operation is performed on both +sides, if the reindeer remains quiet long enough for the purpose at one +time. The animal is in consequence rather indisposed for a while, so +that he can hardly keep up with the rest of the herd, but he usually +recovers perfectly in a week's time. This is certainly an art, no less +curious than remarkable, and merits further consideration. + +The girls here, especially when they wish to appear to advantage, divide +their hair into two braids, one above each ear, which braids are tied +together, at the hind part of the head, so as to hang down the back. A +tuft of ribands is appended to the extremity of each braid. + + +_July 16._ + +We undertook to cross the ice-mountain. Having proceeded some way on our +journey, we observed a dense cloud to the north-east. It was visible +both above and below us, and at length approached us in the form of a +thick mist, which moistened our clothes, and rendered even our hair +thoroughly wet. It so completely obliterated our horizon, that we could +neither see sun nor moon, nor the summits of the neighbouring hills. We +knew not whither to turn our steps, fearing on the one hand to fall down +a precipice and lose our lives, as actually happened, a few years ago, +to a Laplander under the same circumstances; or on the other to be +plunged into the alpine torrent, which had worn so deep a channel +through the snow, as to make any one giddy, looking upon it from above. +We could now not distinguish any thing a couple of ells before us. Our +situation was like that of an unskilful mariner at sea without a +compass, out of sight of land, and surrounded by hidden rocks on every +side. The Laplanders themselves consider the situation we were in as one +of the worst accidents that can ever befall them. We, however, though +destitute of a guide, were fortunate enough to discover the track of a +reindeer, and of some kind of carriage in which goods had probably been +lately conveyed towards Norway. This track directed us safely to one of +the Lapland moveable tents. + +All the Laplanders are usually blear-eyed, so that one would think the +word _Lappi_ (Laplanders) was derived from _lippi_ (blear-eyed). The +causes of this inconvenience are various, but chiefly the following. + +1. The sharp winds. In the early part of my journey, repeated exposure +to stormy weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I became unable to open +them wide, and was obliged to keep them half shut. How much more must +this be the case with those who dwell on the alps, where there is a +perpetual wind! + +2. The snow, the whiteness of which, when the sun shone upon it, was +very troublesome to me. To this the alpine Laplanders are continually +exposed. + +3. The fogs. This day I found myself very comfortable in my walk over +the icy mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud, whichever it might be +called, came about me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as well as +my own, so weak and relaxed, that we could not open them wide without an +effort. Such must often be the case with the Laplanders. + +4. Smoke. How is it possible that these people should not be blear-eyed, +when they are so continually shut up in their huts, where the smoke has +no outlet but by the hole in the roof, and consequently fills every +body's eyes as it passes! + +5. The severity of the cold in this country must also contribute to the +same inconvenience. + +The mountain Laplanders, or those who live in the alps, build no huts; +they have only tents made in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +The first figure represents two connected beams, which compose the +frame-work of one side of the hut; and these meet at the top with two +similar ones, forming the opposite side. A solitary beam is placed on +each side, in the middle of the arch formed by these four, so that the +whole edifice has six angles. Two more slender sticks, but equally tall, +are then erected between every two angles, or main ribs, of the +building. Over the whole is spread the covering of the tent (made of +walmal cloth). The usual height of the structure is about a fathom and +half, and the breadth two fathoms. A flap of cloth is left, so as to +open and shut by way of a door, between two of the main beams. + +[Illustration] + +When they lie down to rest, and are fearful of being incommoded by heat, +they fix a hook through the middle of the coverlet, which raises it +perhaps an ell and a half above them, and under this canopy they repose. + +[Illustration] + +The women wear several things attached to their belt, as a leather bag, +_fig._ 1, containing a spoon, as well as a pipe, _fig._ 3. + +_Fig._ 2. A knife in a case. + +4. A thimble made of leather, which goes round the finger. + +5. A pin-cushion, with a brass cover which pulls down over it like a +cap. + +6. Several large brass rings. + +The belt itself is ornamented with tin or silver embroidery, and +pearls. + +[Illustration] + +The men wear, instead of the above, a kind of bag, hanging down exactly +in front. This is divided internally into two pockets, containing their +tobacco-pipe, tinder-box, tobacco, and a spoon made of reindeer's horn, +of an oblong flattish shape. + +The women often wear a similar bag, but of a smaller size. + +When the reindeer are milked, as they cast their coat during the whole +course of the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, often +covering the milk in the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs of the +animal, and it is found necessary to clean and soften them before the +milking is begun. This is generally done by dipping the fingers into the +milk which may be in the pail already, and washing them therewith. +Whenever it happens that one of the reindeer strays from its master's +herd to that of a neighbour, the person to whom it comes milks it, +without any offence to the proper owner. Such an accident often happens; +for these animals love society, and the more of them there are together, +the better they thrive and enjoy themselves. They are marked at the +ears, like cows, that every person may know his own. + +The furniture of these Laplanders consists of kettles and pots, made +sometimes of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of stone, on account of +the weight. They have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, generally +made of the hard knotty excrescences of the birch. These are often large +enough to hold four or five cans, (of three quarts each,) and formed so +neatly, that any one would believe them to be turned. Into these they +pour what is to be served up at their meals. Plates they have none, but +in their stead boards, of an oblong shape, are used for meat; which, +previous to its distribution among the guests, is served up in round +pails. Closely platted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are used to +keep cheese in. There is moreover an oblong barrel, for the purpose of +holding _jumomjolk_ (_vol._ 1. _p._ 273). + +Within the tent are spread on each side skins of reindeer, with the +hairy part uppermost, on which the people either sit or lie down, for +the tent is not lofty enough to allow any one to stand upright. In the +centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a square enclosure of low +stones about the ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind the +fire-place, is entirely occupied either with brush-wood or branches of +trees, behind which, or, most commonly, before it next the fire, the +household furniture is placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended over +the reindeer skins on each side, upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and +before these, towards the entrance, hang rennet-bags, filled with milk, +preserved for winter use. + +The annexed figure is a sort of plan of the floor of one of these +Lapland tents. a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six in number, +three at the right hand, on entering the tent, and as many at the left. +c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e kettle, with its lid. f, behind +the first reindeer skin, is the place of the harness. g a barrel or +cask. h a store of skins and hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer, +with its flat cover. + +[Illustration] + +The following figure represents the roof of the tent, as seen from +below. a, a, are the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. b outlet for +the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags containing milk. d plat of hair from the +reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e the flat cover of the +milk-strainer; see i in the former figure. + +[Illustration] + +Such was the dwelling, and I shall now describe some of its inhabitants. +I sat myself down at the right hand of the entrance, with my legs +across. Opposite to me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, the other +straight. Her dress came no lower than her knees, but she had a belt +embroidered with silver. Her grey hair hung straight down, and she had a +wrinkled face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was altogether of the +Lapland cast. Her fingers were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next to her +sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty years of age, who, for the +sake of her large herds of reindeer, had already been married ten years +to this old hag. When the Laplanders sit, they either cross their legs +under them, or one knee is bent, the other straight. + +As a defence against wind and snow, a sort of hood, called +_nialmiphata_, is worn over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of the +shape of a truncated cone, dilated at the bottom, and is four palms +high, three palms in circumference at the upper part, and six at the +bottom. This covers the cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, the +eyes and mouth only being exposed. In the back part, at bottom, is a +loop, through which goes a riband to secure the whole from being blown +off, by being tied round the body under the arms. + +In winter-time the women wear breeches, made exactly like those worn by +the men, as well as boots, though the latter come no higher than the +knees. It is wonderful how they are able, in the severity of winter, to +follow the reindeer, which are never at rest, but keep feeding by night +as well as by day. They have indeed small sheds or huts, here and there, +into which they occasionally drive their reindeer, but with the greatest +difficulty. + +During the night we passed over the beautiful lake of _Wirisiar_. The +weather was very cold and foggy. + + +_July 17._ + +In the morning we arrived at the abode of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff, +where I could not but admire the fairness of the bodies of these +dark-faced people, which rivalled that of any lady whatever. + +Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in Lapland _Lummick_. The body of +these animals is grey; face and shoulders black; the loins blackish; +tail, as well as ears, very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss +(_Lichen rangiferinus_), and are not eatable. They live, for the most +part, in the alps; but in some years thousands of them come down into +the woodland countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, and marshes, by +which great numbers perish. They are by no means timid, but look out, +from their holes, at passengers, like a dog. They bring forth five or +six at a birth. Their burrows are about half a quarter (of an ell?) +deep. + +Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, with a hyacinthine flower +in five notched segments (_Gentiana nivalis_). + + +_July 18._ + +I gathered and examined the little Catchfly, which resembles the common +one (_Lychnis Viscaria_) except in being smaller, and not at all viscid. +(_L. alpina_; see _v._ 1. _p._ 302. _n._ 46.) The root is perennial. +Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to linear. Stem simple, round, +smooth, bearing two, three, or four pairs of opposite leaves. From the +uppermost pair springs one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a single +flower, between two small opposite purple leaves. A little higher up, +two other simple flower-stalks come forth in the same manner, with two +coloured leaves at their base, the stem being thus extended straight +upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, with five teeth. Petals five, +their disk cloven half way down; the crown with two teeth. Stamens 10. +Pistils 5. + +After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; but the water we met with +proved less pleasant than usual, having an earthy taste, although it +flowed from plentiful stores of ice and snow. My Laplander took his +knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he sucked by way of refreshment. +I found this mode of drinking agreeable enough, the ice being very +palatable, and we both partook of it largely. He told me it was +considered very wholesome for the chest. Indeed I learned, both from the +Laplanders and my own experience, that pure water, however cold, is +never hurtful, provided it be taken in moderation. + +I was desirous of having my linen washed; but the people understood my +request as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a single article of +their own apparel being made of linen. As their food is of animal +origin, so is their clothing, which consists either of skins, the +produce of the country, or of the woollen cloth called _walmal_, which +they purchase. In the winter they wear Lapland boots, which come up as +high as the middle of the thighs, without any stockings, only the feet +are protected with what they term _Skogras_ (_Carex sylvatica_ Fl. +Brit.), as already mentioned. Next to the body they wear a jacket of +_walmal_, and above that a _lappmudd_, or coat of reindeer skin, with +the hairy side turned inwards. In summer they turn that side outwards. +The boots used by the women do not reach higher than the knee. + + +_July 19._ + +I remarked with astonishment how greatly the reindeer are incommoded in +hot weather, insomuch that they cannot stand still a minute, no not a +moment, without changing their posture, starting, puffing and blowing +continually, and all on account of a little fly. Even though amongst a +herd of perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not above ten of these +flies, every one of the herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour +about. The fly meanwhile was trying every means to get at them; but it +no sooner touched any part of their bodies, than they made an immediate +effort to shake it off. In one respect this season is peculiarly +propitious to the insect, as the reindeer's coat is now very thin, most +of the hair of last year's growth being fallen off. I caught one of +these insects as it was flying along with its tail protruded, which had +at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly white. The tail +itself consisted of four or five tubular joints, slipping into each +other, like a pocket spying-glass, which this fly, like others, has a +power of contracting at pleasure. See what I have already mentioned +(_vol._ 1. _p._ 280), concerning the spots in the reindeer skins, as +caused by this insect (_Oestrus Tarandi_). + +When the Lapland children are laid into the cradle, they seldom cry, +although their hands are confined down to their sides. If they cry, it +is generally from hunger. The cradle is placed in a sloping position, so +that the child's head is half upright. The bottom of the cradle is +hollowed out of a piece of fir wood, consequently not very heavy. Over +the head of the child is a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse +bow is fixed, the whole being covered with cloth, like the rest of the +cradle. In summer the child lies without any covering of reindeer hair, +only having under its head and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or +moss. + +The Laplanders use a curious kind of box or basket, which they call +_kisa_, for keeping or carrying various articles. It is of an oval form, +with the bottom and sides made of fir, like a box, being about a foot +and half long, a foot broad, and six inches deep, with a transverse +opening in the bottom to admit a part of the saddle of the reindeer. The +contents are confined by a lacing of cords, that goes from side to side +across the top, which is otherwise open. Two such boxes, each weighing +about two pounds, are placed like panniers upon the reindeer; for that +animal cannot carry above four or five pounds weight, and the castrated +males only are used as beasts of burthen at all. A leather thong crosses +the saddle, connected with another longer one, which goes round the +chest of the animal at one part, and round its thighs, like the +breechings of a horse, at the other. A pack-saddle, made either of +reindeer skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of spruce fir, goes across +the back, and is connected with the leather thongs just mentioned, being +further secured by a girth under the belly. Against the sides of this +pack-saddle the above-described boxes or baskets are hung and fastened, +the transverse chink in the bottom of each being fitted to the saddle. + +I observed that the Laplanders, both men and women, after borrowing a +lighted pipe, and passing it from one to another, retain a mouthful of +smoke as long as possible, that they may enjoy as much of the flavour as +they can. Old men chew tobacco. + +The tendons in the legs of the reindeer serve to make thread or cord. In +each hind leg are two tendons, one before the other; in each fore leg +one behind and two or three before it. These the Laplanders lay hold of +with their mouths, split and moisten them, rubbing them from time to +time with reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for that use, in order +to render them as supple as possible. Each string is made sharp at both +ends, and drawn through holes of various sizes in an instrument made on +purpose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine and smooth as they can. +Two such threads are then twisted together by means of the hand upon +the thigh or knee. They are generally held with the left hand, and +twisted with the right upon the left knee, proceeding downwards, the +thread being moistened from time to time with saliva. + +In this part of the country the _Empetrum_ (Crow- or Crake-berry) serves +for firing. Otherwise the most common fuel is the dwarf Birch (_Betula +nana_), and the Willow with lanceolate white hairy leaves (_Salix +lapponum_), so very abundant on the Lapland alps. The dwarf birch bears +very small leaves in these elevated regions. + +When the children are taken out of the cradle, which I have already +described (_vol._ 2. _p._ 23), they are dressed in a small garment of +reindeer skin. They are usually able to stand on their legs by the time +they are four months old, and turn their head and eyes about with a +degree of intelligence hardly ever seen in our children at that early +age. + +I never met with any people who lead such easy happy lives as the +Laplanders. In summer they make two meals of milk in the course of the +day, and when they have gone through their allotted task of milking +their reindeer, or making cheese, they resign themselves to indolent +tranquillity, not knowing what to do next. In winter their food is +cheese, taken once or twice a day, but in the evening they eat meat. A +single reindeer supplies four persons with food for a week. + +This animal has no gall-bladder, nor could I discover the insertion of +the biliary duct. The liver however is of a large size. The first +stomach is large, with a thick orifice, and lined with a fine cellular +network like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally plaited. The +Laplanders are curious dissectors. They take out each of the stomachs +separately, with as much care as a professed anatomist. + +The thread made of sinews, as above described, is never used for sewing +_walmal_, which makes their summer clothing, but only for garments +composed of fur or leather. Their shoes indeed are mended, as well as +made, with it. This last business falls to the lot of the women. The +leather is purchased. + +A good ox may be bought in Norway for three rix-dollars; a female +reindeer for one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from twelve to +eighteen dollars, silver coin; and a fawn is worth from twelve to +eighteen dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, therefore, are but +equal to the value of a common ox. + +I left this place in the evening, proceeding on my journey on foot, and +walking all night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the +following day. Thus I walked six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at +another Lapland hut. + +[Illustration] + +Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing by the way, except an +_Andromeda_ (_tetragona_) with quadrangular shoots, and flowers from +the bosoms of the leaves. The stem is woody, procumbent, naked, +thread-shaped, variously divided. Branches partly erect, entirely +covered with leaves, which are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded, +concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an imbricated manner. +Flower-stalks solitary, from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, +thread-shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping flower. Calyx +five-cleft, purplish, with ovate straight segments. Petal one, +half-ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the lily of the valley, cut +half way down into five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, very short, +with horned anthers, scarcely longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the +length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, with five obtuse angles, erect, +of five cells, with several seeds[1]. + + +_July 20._ + +The people here use a kind of bread called _Blodbrod_ (Blood Bread), +made of small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a little quantity of +flour. This is baked or roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is +used only in hard times. + +There are no common flies, bugs, nor snakes, on these Alps. + +The Laplanders however abound with lice, which in winter are allowed to +freeze, when they turn red, and are easily killed. In summer they come +forth from the clothes, if exposed to the sun, and are then destroyed +with the nails, these people having no firelock to shoot them with[2]. + +I was informed that in this neighbourhood the inoculated small-pox is +remarkably fatal. If the patients have but seventy or eighty pustules, +they die of it as of the plague. They fly to the mountains, when +infected, and die. The same is the case with the measles. It appears +that both these diseases are aggravated by the violent cold, whence the +patients die in so miserable a manner[3]. + +Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent. + +Sore eyes are universal, especially in the spring, when the Laplanders +remove towards the Alps. The glittering of the snow has then a +pernicious effect on their eyes. Aged people are very often blind. + +Female obstructions are rare, though sometimes met with among the better +sort of people; neither are the _catamenia_ immoderate, nor in common so +copious as with us. The Lapland women are entirely ignorant of the +_leucorrh[oe]a_. + +Of hysterics I met with but two cases. One maid-servant, twenty-four +years of age, had the complaint about once a year; another, about +thirty, was attacked with it monthly during the summer. + +Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs are frequent; hence the forehead is +often seen full of scars (from the application of their _toule_, or +_moxa_; see _vol._ 1. _p._ 274). + +Elderly people are often hard of hearing. + +The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly sound, and they are in the habit +of sleeping or waking whenever they please. + +A swelling, or falling down, of the _uvula_ is not uncommon, in which +case they frequently cut off the part affected. + +When children are troubled with swellings in the glands about the +throat, the usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck out the blood, +which is considered as a speedy and effectual cure. If this method be +not adopted, they suppose the blood would rise to the head, and cause +cutaneous eruptions there. + +Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding the constant +practice of drinking snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing pure +grease or fat, which perhaps may prevent its bad consequences. However +this may be, the Laplanders seldom die from catching cold. Cases of +_phthisis_, or consumption, do indeed now and then occur among them, and +pleurisies are very common, especially in spring and autumn. Lumbago, or +pain in the back, is most prevalent during the summer. For this, as I +have already mentioned, _vol._ 1. _p._ 274, actual cautery, by means of +their _toule_, or _moxa_, is often applied. + +Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens among those Lapland women who are +in the service of the colonists, and who, in consequence of certain +obstructions, are subject also to [oe]dematous swellings of the feet. + +I have not heard of a single instance of jaundice. + +Some elderly people are afflicted with asthma; and hoarsenesses now and +then occur in the winter and spring. + +The stone and gout are entirely unknown amongst the Laplanders. + +Swellings of the lower extremities are uncommon, as these people are in +the habit of swathing their legs, which renders them all slender and +well shaped. All dropsical complaints indeed are very rare, though I did +meet with one case of this kind. + +Of _tenesmus_ I happened to hear of but a single instance, though the +Laplanders eat so much cheese and drink water. + +Disorders in the stomach are not uncommon, which are frequently attended +with _diarrh[oe]a_, and in some years this disease is contagious. + +The specimens of minerals which I had collected in the course of my +tour were now become numerous, and consisted of the following articles. + +1. An alum, as I presume, of a club shape, without any taste, seeming as +it were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains to the north of the lake +Skalk, near Kiomitis. (See _vol._ 1. _p._ 267.) + +2. Native alum in its own matrix; from the same place. (_Alumen +nativum._ _Syst. Nat._ _vol._ 3. 101). + +3. Native alum, rough and green, separate from its matrix; from the same +mountains. + +4. Alum like the former in appearance, but not salt, perhaps a +calcareous stone; found not far from the same place. + +5. Various alpine micaceous stones. + +6. Marle from Lapland. + +7. Quartz from Lapland. + +8. Silver ore from Kiurivari. + +9. Silver ore from Nasaphiel in Pith[oe]an Lapland. + +10. Sandstone containing three per cent. of iron. + +11. Black slate from the alps. + +12. Petrified corals from Norway. + +13. Iridescent fluors from the alps. + +The fish called by the Laplanders _Sijk_ (the Gwiniad, or _Salmo +Lavaretus_,) is taken in their lakes. Its head terminates in an obtuse +point. The upper jaw is the longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of the +eye silvery, with a blackish upper edge, and a black pupil. The whole +body is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven inches long and two +deep. Head two inches long at the sides; from the snout to the dorsal +fin four inches and a half. The dorsal fin consists of thirteen rays, of +which the first is by far the largest, and the last cloven or +interrupted. The soft fat fin is in its proper place. + + +_July 21._ + +The following are the disorders or inconveniences to which the reindeer +are subject. + +When the frost is so intense as to form an impenetrable crust on the +surface of the snow, so that the animal cannot break it with his feet, +to get at the Lichen on which he feeds, he is frequently starved to +death. This misfortune is as dreadful to the Laplanders as any public or +national calamity elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed, he must +himself either starve to death, beg for his livelihood, or turn thief. + +The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncommonly affected with a swelling at +the edge where they are attached to the skin, at which part they +consequently become ulcerated, and are seldom healed. The creature thus +grows lame, and cannot keep up with the herd. + +These animals are sometimes attacked with a _vertigo_, or giddiness in +the head, which causes them to run round and round continually. The +people assured me, that such of them as run according to the course of +the sun may be expected to get the better of the disorder; but those +which turn the contrary way, being supposed incurable, are immediately +killed. The recovery of the former is thought to be promoted by cutting +their ears, so as to cause a great discharge of blood. + +The _Kurbma_, or ulceration caused by the Gad-fly, (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +280.) takes place every spring, especially in the younger fawns. Such as +are brought forth in the summer season are free from this misfortune the +ensuing spring, but in the following one many of them lose their lives +by it. When come to their full size and strength, the consequences are +less fatal; but no reindeer is entirely exempt from the attacks of this +pernicious insect. + +The fawns are of a reddish hue the first season, during which they cut +their foreteeth. In the autumn they turn blackish, and have fodder given +them. They are when young frequently afflicted with a soreness in the +mouth, so as to be unable for a while to eat. + +Reindeer are subject to a disease called by the Laplanders _Pekke +Kattiata_, accompanied with ulcerations of the flesh, which however +often heal by a sloughing of the part affected. This is an epidemic +disorder. It is believed that if any of the ulcerous part, which is cast +off, be swallowed by the animal, in licking his own coat, or that of any +other of the herd labouring under this malady, it proves fatal by +corroding the viscera. + +The dugs of the female often become chapped or sore, so as to bleed +whenever they are milked. + +The male reindeer in his natural state is fatter than such as are +castrated, except the latter be kept without work, in which case they +become the fattest. Such as are castrated and allowed to run wild, +become considerably larger, as well as tamer, in consequence. + +The rutting season lasts but a fortnight, that is, from about a week +preceding the feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Michaelmas day, during +which period the male is savage and dangerous. Immediately afterwards he +casts his coat and horns, and not unfrequently becomes so emaciated, +that, in many instances, death is the consequence. + +Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.) in the following year, or within +a fortnight of that period, very rarely later, the females bring forth +their young. They do not copulate the first year, and seldom before the +third, their progeny being found the better for this delay. Indeed +neither the males nor females arrive at their full growth and perfection +before they are towards three years old. + +The fawn, whether male or female, is called the first year _mesk_; the +second season the male is called _orryck_, and the female _whenial_. In +the third year the latter, if she has been covered, is known by the +appellation of _watja_ or _waja_, which means a wife; if otherwise, she +goes by the name of _whenial-rotha_, the three-year old male being +called _wubbers_. In his fourth year the male is termed _koddutis_; in +the following one _kosittis_; in the sixth _machanis_, and in the +seventh _namma lappotachis_. After that period no male is kept, they all +perishing in consequence of the exhaustion above mentioned, but the +castrated ones live to a more advanced age. None of these animals +however survive beyond their twelfth or fourteenth year. When the +castrated males become very fat towards autumn, and show signs of old +age; or the females, having become barren, appear otherwise to be on the +decline, they are killed, by the knife, in the close of the year; from +an apprehension that they might otherwise perish of themselves from +infirmity, in the course of another season. + +Such of the male reindeer as are destined to serve for a stock of +provision, are killed before the rutting-time, and their carcases hung +up to be exposed to the air and frost before flaying. The flesh is +smoked and a little salted, and then laid upon sledges to dry in the +sun, that it may keep through the winter till spring. About the feast of +St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin to be so incommoded with the +gad-fly, that they are not in a fit condition to be slain for eating. +From that period therefore, till the milking season, the Laplanders are +obliged to live on this stock of preserved meat. At other times of the +year the females are killed for immediate use, according as they are +wanted. The blood is kept fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves +for food in the spring, being added to the _v[:a]lling_ (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +129), with a small proportion of milk and water. The blood of these +animals is thick in consistence, like that of a hog. The Laplanders +carry a portion of it along with them from place to place, in bladders +or some kind of vessels. A stock of this and all other necessaries is +collected as late as possible, before the melting of the snow, while +there still remains a track for the sledges. + +A kind of blood pudding or sausage is made, in general without flour, +and with a large proportion of fat. This the Laplanders call _marfi_. + +The liver of the reindeer, which is of a considerable bulk, is boiled +and eaten fresh. The lungs, being salted and moderately dried, are eaten +occasionally, or else given to the dogs. The intestines, which abound +with fat, are cut open, washed, and boiled fresh; nor are they +unpalatable. The brain and testicles are never eaten. The foot is flayed +down to the fetlock joint, beyond which the hair cannot, by scalding or +any other contrivance, be separated, without the cuticle and skin coming +along with it. Even when the feet are boiled, the hair never comes off +without the skin. Thus the animal when living is the more firmly +protected against the snow. The hoofs are thrown away as useless. + +The dung of the reindeer in summer is almost as large as cow-dung, but +in winter it more resembles that of the goat. + +Each individual reindeer does not bear horns of precisely the same shape +every year. The points are very liable to be deformed, in consequence of +the animal's scratching them, while in a growing state, with its feet; +they being in that state much inclined to itch, and as tender as the +flesh of a fresh fish. + +These animals are afflicted with maggots called _kornmatskar_ in their +noses and gums, from which they relieve themselves in the spring by +snorting and blowing. When the insects lodge on their backs and form +pustules there, the people make a practice of squeezing them out, to +prevent the reindeer from being too much irritated by them. (This +species is the _Oestrus nasalis_, though the account here given is not +very clear; but in the first edition only of the _Fauna Suecica_ Linn[ae]us +says, on the authority of a gentleman named Friedenreich, that "this +_Oestrus_ lodges its eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in +Lapland, and is frequently cast out by them as they travel along in the +spring.") + +When the skin is stripped from the carcase of the reindeer, it is +immediately spread out, and stretched as much as possible, by means of +a longitudinal pole, and a transverse stick at each end of the skin, +these sticks being pulled asunder with a strong cord. Several more +transverse twigs are placed between these two sticks, so as to extend +every part of the edges of the hide, which in this position is allowed +to dry. + +The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin taken from the legs of the +animal; their hairy shoes, of that from its forehead between the horns, +such being worth two dollars, copper money; while those made from the +skin of the legs, being much thinner, are of very little or no value. + +A Laplander never goes barefoot, though he has nothing to serve him for +stockings but hay (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). Sometimes he buys +leather for shoes or boots from his neighbours. + +The people of this country boil their meat in water only, without any +addition or seasoning, and drink the broth. _Jumomj[:o]lk_ (see _vol._ 1. +278.) kept for a whole year is delicate eating. Berries of all kinds +are boiled in it. Some persons make a practice of boiling those berries +by themselves, preserving them afterwards in small tubs, or other wooden +vessels. They boil their fish more thoroughly than their meat, over a +slow fire, drinking likewise the water in which it has been drest. The +meat is never so much boiled as to separate from the bone. Fresh fish is +sometimes roasted over the fire. Few people dry and salt it, though that +method is sometimes practised. Meat is dried by the air, sun and smoke +all together, being hung up in the chimney, or rather hole by which the +smoke escapes through the roof. + +The Laplanders never eat of more than one dish at a meal. + +By way of dainty, the women occasionally mix the berries of the Dwarf +Cornel (_Cornus suecica_) with _Kappi_ (see _vol._ i. _p._ 281.), which +is made of whey boiled till it grows as thick as flummery. To this they +moreover add some cream. That fruit is entirely neglected in the country +of Medelpad. + +In Dalecarlia the people generally keep their cattle up in the +mountains, twelve or sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on account +of gad-flies and other stinging insects. There they have their dairies, +and make cheese. The remaining whey is boiled till two thirds are +wasted, when it becomes as thick as flummery. This is sometimes eaten +instead of butter, sometimes mixed with dough, or serves for food in +various other manners. + +The wind is excessively powerful in this alpine region, so that +sometimes it is impossible to stand against it, both men and sledges +being overturned by its violence. + +It blew so hard at the place where I now was, that one of the windows of +the curate's house was blown in upon the floor. + +Every Laplander constantly carries a sort of pole or stick, tipped with +a ferule, and furnished with a transverse bit of wood. Whenever he is +tired, he leans his arms and nose against it to rest himself. + +Such as live in the forests are dexterous marksmen, but not those who +inhabit the alps. Nevertheless, they all contrive, by means of their +wooden bows, to procure, in the course of the winter, a considerable +number of Squirrels (_Sciurus vulgaris_) in their grey or winter +clothing, for the sake of their skins. + +In the winter season also they go in pursuit of their most cruel enemies +the wolves. One of these animals will sometimes kill twenty or thirty +reindeer at a time, if he comes into the enclosure where they are. The +wolf often runs away before the Laplander can get near enough to fire at +him. A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, except by coming upon it +unawares, the latter being much the most swift of foot; but if he gets +into any of the store-houses, he does a great deal of mischief, turning +every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also very dangerous in the fissures +of rocks and mountains, where they usually conceal themselves. + +The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) does most harm in the pantry or +store-house. He never meddles with the reindeer. + +A part of the employment of the men is to make sledges, or other +machines of wood for carriage. They cut rough wood in the forests for +the boxes which they carry with them into the alps. + +The duty of the women is to mend the clothes of the whole family. + +Laplanders have several plays or amusements. + +Children make of the dwarf birch (_Betula nana_) something like +reindeer's horns, with which they gore one another in sport. They amuse +themselves frequently by building little huts of stone. + +Grown-up people play very well at tennis, but they seldom partake of +that diversion. More common amusements are blindman's buff, and drawing +gloves. + +Here I think it worth while to observe, that the alpine Laplanders are +more honest, as well as more good-natured, than those who dwell in the +woodlands. Having acquired more polish from their occasional intercourse +with the inhabitants of towns, the latter have, at the same time, +learned more cunning and deceit, and are frequently very knavish. The +inhabitants of the alps dwell in villages formed of their tents, living +together, as I have already related, in great comfort and harmony. Those +who occupy the woody parts of the country live dispersed. + +The Laplanders know no musical instrument except the _lur_ (a sort of +trumpet), and pipes made of the bark of the quicken tree or mountain +ash. They are not accustomed to sing at church, except those who are +reckoned among the great or learned of the community. + +The inhabitants of this country are not more troubled with chilblains +than those of other places. They do not mind having their cheeks +frost-bitten. The women wear an embroidered band round the head, which +affords no protection in this respect; but the men have a loose band of +skin with the hair on, which can be pulled down occasionally over their +cap, when the cold is intolerable. + +(But to proceed with a further account of the diversions of the people I +am describing). + +_Spetto_, one of their games, is played, by men as well as women, in the +following manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty or sixty pieces of +wood, a hand's breadth in length, which are spread upon the extended +skin of a reindeer. One of the players takes a ball made of stone or +marble, larger than a boy's playing marble, which he throws up into the +air about an ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches away one of the +sticks, but in such a manner as not to miss catching the ball in its +fall, holding the stick in the same hand. He subsequently gathers +together, in his other hand, as many of the sticks as he has thus been +able to procure. If he fails in any respect, another person is to take +the ball, and proceed in the same manner, the former player resigning up +to him one of the sticks every time the ball is thrown, till no more +remain in his own possession. He who can take up all the sticks wins the +game. + +The following rules are to be observed. + +1. He who catches the ball, but not one of the sticks, must resign the +ball to another player, as well as he who has let it fall. + +2. He who takes up more than one stick at a time, must return what he +has taken. + +3. The adversary, that is, the last player, who could not succeed in +taking up all the sticks, is allowed to lay down as many as he pleases +of the sticks he has collected, and may arrange them according to his +fancy. It is usual to lay one upon another, in order to render the game +more difficult, the player being obliged to snatch up each separately; +which is not easy without taking two, when so situated, at once. + +4. When at length one person has taken up all the sticks, his adversary +is permitted to replace the two last of them upon the skin in any manner +he chooses. He commonly separates them as widely as possible. The person +who had previously gained the whole, is then required to take up both +these sticks at one throw of the ball, and if he fails he must give up +the game. Thus the victory is often lost by means of these two last +sticks. + +5. When the adversary fails of his aim, the other player is to take all +the sticks lying on the field, as well as those which, after having been +laid down by himself, were won by the other person, and the whole are to +be laid down again directly, in order to be taken up according to the +above rules. But he is no longer under any obligation himself to take up +the sticks which he has thus laid for his companion. + +The game called _Tablut_ is played with a checkered board, and +twenty-five pieces, or men, in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: Fig. 1, is the king, whose station is in the central +square or royal castle, called _konokis_ by the Laplanders, to which no +other person can be admitted.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes his subjects, +who, at the commencement of the game, are stationed in the eight +squares, adjoining to the royal castle, marked 2 and 3.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites, their adversaries, +who occupy the sixteen embroidered squares, (some of them marked 4 in +the cut,) situated four together in the middle of each side of the +field.] + +The vacant squares, distinguished by letters, may be occupied by any of +the pieces in the course of the game. + + +LAWS. + +1. Any piece may move from one square to another in a right line, as +from _a_ to _c_; but not corner-wise, or from _a_ to _e_. + +2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads of any other pieces that +may be in the way, or to move, for instance, from _b_ to _m_, in case +any were stationed at _e_ or _i_. + +3. If the king should stand in _b_, and no other piece in _e_, _i_, or +_m_, he may escape by that road, unless one of the Muscovites +immediately gets possession of one of the squares in question, so as to +interrupt him. + +4. If the king be able to accomplish this, the contest is at an end. + +5. If the king happens to be in _e_, and none of his own people or his +enemies either in _f_ or _g_, _i_ or _m_, his exit cannot be prevented. + +6. Whenever the person who moves the king perceives that a passage is +free, he must call out _raichi_, and if there be two ways open, +_tuichu_. + +7. It is allowable to move ever so far at once, in a right line, if the +squares in the way be vacant, as from _c_ to _n_. + +8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take it by turns to move. + +9. If any one man gets between two squares occupied by his enemies, he +is killed and taken off, except the king, who is not liable to this +misfortune. + +10. If the king, being in his own square or castle, is encompassed on +three sides by his enemies, one of them standing in each of three of the +squares numbered 2, he may move away by the fourth. If one of his own +people happens to be in this fourth square, and one of his enemies in +number 3 next to it, the soldier thus enclosed between his king and the +enemy is killed. If four of the enemy gain possession of the four +squares marked 2, thus enclosing the king, he becomes their prisoner. + +11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy in each of the adjoining squares, +_a_, _A_ and 3, he is likewise taken. + +12. Whenever the king is thus taken or imprisoned, the war is over, and +the conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the conquered party resigning all +the Muscovites that he had taken. + + * * * * * + +The Laplanders use the middle bark of the elm for dressing their +reindeer skins, but merely by chewing it, and rubbing their saliva on +the skins. + +They also tan with birch bark, but do not suffer the skins to remain +long under the operation, which they say would render them rotten and +apt to rend, neither can they spare them very long. + +White _walmal_ cloth is procured from Russia, but for want thereof they +commonly wear a light grey cloth of the same kind. + +Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir in the following manner. Choosing +the most slender roots, they scrape off the bark, while fresh, with the +back of a knife, holding the roots against the thigh. Afterwards each +root is first split with the knife into three or four parts, which are +then by degrees separated into a number of very slender fibres; and +these, being wrapped round the hand like a skain of thread, are tied +together. They are then boiled in a kettle for an hour or two, with a +considerable quantity of wood ashes. While still soft from this boiling, +they are laid across the knee, and scraped three or four times over with +a knife. At last they are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots serve in +like manner to afford cordage for the Laplanders, but more rarely. The +latter are more generally used, without being split, for basket-work. +For various articles of furniture the roots of _Tall_ (Scotch Fir, +_Pinus sylvestris_) are cut into small boards. The wood of that tree +serves for inferior kinds of work, and, amongst other things, for +cheese-vats. + +The Laplanders scrape with a knife the young and tender stalks of the +plant called _Jerja_, (_Sonchus alpinus_, _Sm. Plant. Ic._ _t._ 21.) and +eat them as a delicacy, like those of the great _Angelica_ (_A. +Archangelica_), which in the first year of their growth are termed +_Fatno_. + +A Laplander always places himself at the further part of his hut, and +his guest is seated next to him on a skin spread on purpose. The master +of the hut is by this means enabled to reach the vessel in which water +is kept for drink, and which always stands in the upper part of the hut. + +The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual stream both summer and winter. Now +if, according to the general opinion, the water of this river were +derived from exhalations of the great ocean, collected by the alps of +this country, it should cease to run when all the alpine tracts are +frozen. The stream must therefore be constantly fed by neighbouring +springs. + +The names by which the Laplanders distinguish the several times of the +day or night are as follows. + +Midnight is called in their language _kaskia_. The remainder of the +night before dawn, _pojela kaskia_. The morning dawn, _theleeteilyja_. +Sun-rise, _peivimorotak_. Two or three hours after sun-rise, _areiteet_. +The hour of milking the reindeer, which is about 8 or 9 o'clock, +_arrapeivi_. Noon, or dinner time, _kaskapeivi_. About 5 or 6 o'clock in +the afternoon, _eketis peivi_. Sunset, _peiveliti_. Night, _i[:a]_. + +The days of the week are named as follows. + + Sunday, _Sotno peivi_. + + Monday, _Mannutaka_. + + Tuesday, _Tistaka_. + + Wednesday, _Kaska vacku_, or middle of the week. + + Thursday, _Tourestaka_. + + Friday, _Perietaka_. + + Saturday, _Lavutaka_. + +They have no names for the months, but certain weeks are distinguished +by the following appellations. + + Midsummer week, _Midtsomarvacku_. + + St. Peter's week, June 29, _Pelasmassu vacku_. + + Goose week, _Gassa vacku_. + + In the middle of the summer, _Gaskakis_. + + St. Margaret's, July 20, _Marcrit_. + + St. Olaus' mass, July 29, _Vollis_. + + (No date mentioned here.) _Vehak_. + + St. Laurence, Aug. 10, _Lauras_. + + Reindeer-fawn week, _Orryk_. When in a fawn two years old the horns + begin to bud. + + St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, _Barti_. + + (No date.) _Hoppmil_. + + St. Mary, Sept. 8, _Margi_. + + Holy Cross, Sept. 14, _Behawis_. + + St. Matthew, Sept. 21, _Matthus_. + + St. Michael, Sept. 29, _Michel_. + + (St. Faith, Oct. 6?) _Perkit_. + + (Middle of Oct.) _Talvi_. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed figure represents a Laplander's staff. It is tipped with a +blade of iron, as thick as the thumb. With this weapon he attacks the +bear and wolf in the time of deep snow. On the lower part of the shaft +is a sort of hoop, six inches in diameter, made of root of fir, and +fastened with thongs of reindeer skin, one of which passes through a +hole in the staff. At the bottom it is mounted with iron. The use of +this hoop is to prevent the staff from sinking into the snow, when used +as a walking-stick. The shaft itself, made of birch wood, is about four +feet long, and an inch and half thick. + +[Illustration] + +This sketch is taken from one of their snow shoes, made of wood. Its +length is six feet, from h to i; breadth, from k to g, five inches. The +hind part, i, is rather more obtuse than the other end, h, which last is +elevated about two or three inches. From h it gradually widens to f. The +part from c to d, where the foot stands, is about eight inches; its +breadth three. The under part of the shoe is convex, and furrowed +lengthwise; the upper flattish, raised about ten lines, and the edge all +round is sharp. At b is a band, made of fir root twisted, serving to tie +the shoe fast round the ancle. The general thickness of the shoe +throughout is from three to four lines. + +Some people wear a pair of the same size; others have the left shoe +smaller than the right. Each is often lined or covered, about the +central part, with a piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent the foot +slipping about upon the shoe, and give a firmer step in walking over the +snow. This is most practised in Kimi-Lapmark, where the wild reindeer +are most abundant. + +The Lapland thread is made out of the tendons of reindeer fawns half a +year old. Such thread is covered with tin foil for embroidery, its +pliability rendering it peculiarly fit for the purpose. The tendons are +dried in the sun, being hung over a stick. They are never boiled. + +To show to what a high degree of perfection these people have arrived in +the art of making such thread, I brought away a sample of it, which I +believe none of our ladies could match. + +Shoes and baskets made of birch bark are used both in Angermanland and +Helsingland, as well as ropes of the same material, which will not sink +in water, but these are not in general use. + +The bows which serve the Laplanders for shooting squirrels are composed +of two different kinds of wood, laid parallel to each other. The +innermost is birch, the outermost of what they term _kior_, _kioern_ or +_tioern_. (This is procured from a tree of the Common Fir, _Pinus +sylvestris_, that happens to grow in a curved form, usually in marshy +places, or on the banks of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard +like box: see _vol._ i. _p._ 255; also _Fl. Lapp. n._ 346, [lambda].) If +this be not practised, the bows are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood +is externally convex, yet not so much as to render the bow quite +cylindrical. + +When the Laplanders expect any visitors, they are particularly careful +to have plenty of _ris_ (branches of the dwarf birch) spread on the +floor, under the reindeer skins on which they sit; otherwise they would +be thought deficient in civility, and the mistress of the family would +be censured as a bad manager, when the guests returned to their own +homes. + +The mode of their entertainment is as follows. + +First, if the stranger arrives before their meat is set over the fire to +boil, they present him either with iced milk, or with some kind of +berries mixed with milk, or perhaps with cheese, or with _kappi_, (see +_vol._ i. _p._ 281.) Afterwards, when the meat is sufficiently cooked, +and they have taken it out of the pot, they put into the water, in which +it has been boiled, slices of cheese made of reindeer milk. This is a +testimony of hospitality, and that they are disposed to make their guest +as welcome as they can. They next serve up some of their dry or solid +preparations of milk. + +The marriages of the Laplanders are conducted in the following manner. +(This subject was treated in _vol._ i. _p._ 276, like Sterne's "history +of the king of Bohemia and his seven castles," no doubt to the great +dismay of the curious reader. We ought to have warned him of its being +resumed in a subsequent part of the work, but in truth we had not then +ourselves proceeded so far in deciphering the original manuscript.) + +1. In the first place the lover addresses his favourite fair-one in a +joking manner, to try whether his proposal be likely to prove acceptable +or not. Perhaps he even goes so far as to speak once or twice to her +father upon the subject. He then takes his leave, either fixing a time +for his return, or not, as it may happen. + +2. The lover next takes with him such of his nearest relations as live +in the neighbourhood, who, as well as himself, all carry provisions with +them, to the hut of his mistress, he going last in the procession. + +3. When the party arrive at the place of their destination, they all, +except the lover, walk in. If there happen to be any other huts near at +hand, it is usual for the damsel to retire to one of them, that she may +not be obliged to hear the conversation of the visitors. Her admirer +either remains on the outside of the door, amongst the reindeer, or goes +into some neighbouring hut. There are usually two or three spokesmen in +the party, the principal of whom is called _Sugnovivi_. When they are +all seated, the young man's father first presents some brandy to the +father of the young woman; upon which the latter asks why he treats him +with brandy? The former replies, "I am come hither with a good +intention, and I wish to God that it may prosper." He then declares his +errand. If the other party should not be favourably inclined to the +proposal, he rejects it, at the same time thanking the person who made +it. Upon this, all who are present endeavour to prevail upon him to give +his consent to the marriage. If they succeed, or in case the offer has +from the first been accepted, the friends of the lover fetch whatever +they have brought along with them, consisting of various utensils, and +silver coin, which they place on a reindeer skin, spread in the hut, +before the father and mother of the intended bride. The father or the +mother of the bridegroom then distributes the money between the young +woman and her parents. If the sum be thought too small, the latter ask +for more, and it frequently happens that much time is spent in +bargaining, before they can come to a conclusion. When the parties +concerned cannot obtain so large a sum as they think themselves entitled +to, they often reject the whole, and return the money to those who +brought it. But if, on the contrary, matters are brought to a favourable +conclusion, the parents allow their daughter to be sent for. Two of the +bridegroom's relations undertake this office. If the bride has any +confidential female friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm together; +and in this case the mother of the bridegroom is required to make a +present of a few brass rings, or something of that kind, to this friend +or sister, who keeps lamenting the loss of her companion. + +When the bride enters the hut, her father asks whether she is satisfied +with what he has done? To which she replies, that she submits herself to +the disposal of her father, who is the best judge of what is proper for +her. The mother of the bridegroom then presents the bride with the sum +allotted for her, laying it in her lap. If it proves less than she had +expected, she shows her dissatisfaction by various gestures, and signs +of refusal, in which case she may possibly obtain at least the promise +of a larger sum. All these gifts become her own property. + +When such pecuniary matters are finally arranged, the father and mother +of the bridegroom present him and his bride with a cup of brandy, of +which they partake together, and then all the company shake hands. They +afterwards take off their caps, and one of the company makes an +oration, praying for God's blessing upon the new-married couple, and +returning thanks to him who "gives every man his own wife, and every +woman her own husband." + +The parents of the bridegroom next partake of some brandy, and the whole +stock of that liquor which they had brought with them is fetched for the +company. + +All the relations of the bridegroom then come forward with their +provisions, which generally consist of several cheeses, and a piece of +meat dried and salted. The latter is roasted before the fire, while the +company is, in the mean while, regaled with some of the solid +preparations of milk, the bride and bridegroom eating by themselves, +apart from the rest. + +Two stewards are next chosen, one of them from the bride's party, the +other from that of the bridegroom. The last-mentioned party are then +required to furnish a quantity of raw meat, amounting to about a pound +and half to each person. This the stewards immediately set about +boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve it round to all present. +This meat is dressed in several separate pots, two only in each hut, if +there be any neighbours whose huts can serve to accommodate the party on +this occasion; for each Laplander has never more than one hut of his +own. The fat part of the broth is first served up in basons. Afterwards +various petticoats or blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on the +floor, by way of a table-cloth, on which the boiled meat is placed. The +chief persons of the company then, as many as can find room, take their +places in the hut of the bride's family, sitting down round the +provision, while the children and inferiors are accommodated in the +neighbouring huts. Grace is then said. The bride and bridegroom are +placed near together, for the most part close to the door, or place of +entrance. They are always helped to the best of the provision. The +company then serve themselves, taking their meat on the points of their +knives, and dipping each morsel into some of the fat broth, in which +the whole has been boiled, before they put it into their mouths. Numbers +of people assemble from the neighbourhood, to look in upon the company +through the door; and as they expect to share in the feast, the stewards +give them two or three bits of meat, according as they respect them more +or less. What remains after every body is satisfied, is put together, +and wrapped up in the blankets or cloths, that part of it which is left +by the new-married couple being kept separate from the rest, as no other +person is allowed to partake of their share. The dinner being over, the +whole company shake hands and return thanks for their entertainment. +They always shake hands with the bride and bridegroom in the first +place, and then with the rest, saying at the same time _kussl[)a]n_. + +After taking some brandy, the whole party go to bed. The herd of +reindeer had been turned out to pasture from the time when the meat was +put into the pot. The bride and bridegroom sleep together with their +clothes on. + +When the company rise in the morning, if the bridegroom's father and +their party have any thing left, they treat the others with it; for the +family of the bride have seldom any preparation made, not expecting, or +not being supposed to expect, such company, and they never keep any +brandy by them, but purchase it for every occasion. Whatever cold meat +therefore remains is brought forward, to which the bride's party indeed +add cheese, and any other preparation of milk they may have in store, as +well as any dried meat; such things being usually kept by them. With +these the party regale themselves by way of breakfast. Afterwards the +family of the bride boil some fresh meat, as a final repast for their +guests, who, after partaking of it, take their leave. + +The banns are usually published once. The marriage ceremony, which is +very short, is performed after the above-mentioned company is departed. +This being over, the bridegroom either takes his wife immediately home +with him, or he goes to his own hut alone, and stays there from one to +five days, after which he returns to her residence, bringing with him +his herd of reindeer, and stays there for some time with her. + +Such of the Laplanders as are rich enough to afford it, make their wives +a present of a coverlet; a petticoat made of cloth, without any gathers, +as usual among these people; a small silver beaker or cup; several +rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon, &c.; so that many a bride costs +her husband more than a hundred dollars, copper money. To the mother he +perhaps gives a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat. + +I have already mentioned that the Laplanders eat _Angelica_ +(_sylvestris_) in a raw state. This plant, which the inhabitants of +Westbothland call _Bioernstut_, has so many names among the Laplanders, +according to the different stages of its growth, as to cause much +confusion to a stranger. The first year of its growth they term the root +_Urtas_, and the leaves _Fadno_; but the second year the plant is known +by the name of _Posco_ or _Botsk_. When the stalk is dried, or eaten +raw, they call it _Rasi_, that is, grass. They say, when any one has +eaten more of this plant than is good for him, "_Elli rasi ist purro +etnach_," the meaning of which is, "Thou hast overloaded thyself with +such a quantity of grass." + +Another herb of which they are very fond is the Sowthistle with a simple +stem, known by the name of _Jerja_. (_Sonchus alpinus._ _Fl. Lapp ed._ +2. 240. _Sm. Pl. Ic. t._ 21. _S. lapponicus._ _Willd. Sp. Pl._ _v._ 3. +1520.) This has a perennial root. The stem is erect, round, green, +smooth, except a few soft scattered hairs, which are most remarkable +towards the top and bottom, and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves about +twelve or fourteen, half clasping the stem, gradually smaller upwards, +nearly the shape of Dandelion, or of the common Sowthistle, one half of +each leaf, consisting of the terminal lobe, making exactly an acute +triangle, toothed at the edges; from that part downwards the leaf +contracts, but not to the main rib, and then again expands into two +narrow appendages, as it were, equal in breadth, but unequal in length, +which are crenate at their edges. From thence begins the stalk of the +leaf, which is winged and toothed, and half embraces the stem. The +leaves are thin and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper side, and the +upper ones are the least divided, as well as the bluntest. The flowers +are collected into a corymbus, somewhat like Butterbur, but more +loosely, especially in the lower part, each supported by a very short +stalk, accompanied by a very narrow oblong leaf which extends beyond the +flower. The calyx consists of several oblong, narrow, acute, imbricated +leaves, varying in number from fourteen to twenty, the outermost +gradually shortest, but the ten innermost are equal in length, and +blunter than the rest, composing two rows; the calyx altogether is +shorter than the corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Florets equal in +number to the leaves of the calyx. Germen short, square, crowned with +long white radiating down. Petal flat, cut away on one side, +violet-coloured, five-toothed. Stamens five, white, their apex (anther) +cylindrical, five-sided, white, marked with five blue lines. Pistil one, +forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dotted. This plant grows among +trees at the sides of mountains, along with the narrow-hooded Aconite +(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), flowering at the end of July or beginning of +August. The stem, which is milky, is eaten by the Laplanders in the same +manner as Angelica. The taste was to me very bitter, but the people of +the country do not find it so, though they confessed that it appeared +bitter to them when they first learned to eat it. As soon as the plant +shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody, and no longer eatable. + +The sinews of which the fine thread is made that, when covered with tin, +serves for embroidery, and is called _tentr[oa]d_ (tin-thread), are taken +from the feet of the reindeer, or of oxen, boiled; though sometimes the +feet of sea-fowl are chosen for this purpose. Old women and girls are +employed in preparing this thread, by drawing it through holes made in a +piece of reindeer's horn. They wind it round their hands and feet as +they form it, and smear it with fat extracted from the foot of the +animal, to make it more supple, as they proceed. + +Hay is made in different modes in various parts of Sweden. In +Westbothland the fresh-cut grass is heaped together over night, that it +may get a heat. Next day it is spread out, and by this method its +quality is supposed to become richer and stronger. The same is practised +with hops in Jamtland, where the fresh-gathered hops are packed +together, as hard as possible, till they become warm; after which they +are spread out to dry. Their strength is by this means improved. + +The people of Scania having mowed their grass, let it lie till dry, when +they rake it together. + +The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed. + +The East Gothlanders range it in heaps, two and two together, in a long +row. + +In Upland the new-mown grass is tied up in bundles, and collected into +cocks. + +In Angermannia the whole year's crop is laid by upon a kind of raised +floor. + +In Westbothland, after being dried in the shed, the hay is kept there +for use, being laid crosswise, and cut when wanted[4]. + + +_July 23._ + +This evening I took leave of the alpine part of Lapland, and returned +by water from Hyttan towards Lulea. + +The White, or Mountain, Fox (_Canis lagopus_) lives among the alps, +feeding on the Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, (_Mus Lemmus_,) as well as on +the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_). This White Fox is smaller than the +common kind. The Ptarmigan, which the Laplanders call _Cheruna_, feeds +on the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), which for that reason is called +_Ryprys_, or Ptarmigan-bush. At night this bird lies squat upon the +snow, in the same posture as the Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_, see +_vol._ 1. 179): hence a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints it +makes in the snow. This mode of roosting renders the Ptarmigan an easy +prey to the Fox. + +The Lemming or Red Mouse, see _p._ 18, (_Mus Lemmus_,) in some seasons +entirely overruns the country; devouring the corn and grass: but though +these animals thus occasionally appear by millions at a time, they +subsequently depart and disappear as unaccountably, so that nobody knows +what becomes of them. They do no mischief in the houses. + +The Ermine (_Mustela Erminea_) is white in winter, red in summer. This +animal is seldom met with on the alps, but is very plentiful in the +forests. Foxes and Wolves have destroyed the chief of the Hares. The +Wolves indeed kill the Foxes. + +The Shrew Mouse (_Sorex araneus_) and Common Small Mouse (_Mus +Musculus_) are found in Lapmark, but no Rats (_Mus Rattus_). + +Hunting the Bear is often undertaken by a single man, who, having +discovered the retreat of the animal, takes his dog along with him and +advances towards the spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round with a +cord, to prevent his barking, and the man holds the other end of this +cord in his hand. As soon as the dog smells the bear, he begins to show +signs of uneasiness, and by dragging at the cord informs his master that +the object of his pursuit is at no great distance. When the Laplander +by this means discovers on which side the bear is stationed, he advances +in such a direction that the wind may blow from the bear to him, and not +the contrary; for otherwise the animal would by the scent be aware of +his approach, though not able to see an enemy at any considerable +distance, being half blinded by the sunshine. When he has gradually +advanced to within gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him; and this is +the more easily accomplished in autumn, as the bear is then more +fearless, and is continually prowling about for berries of different +kinds, on which he feeds at that season of the year. Should the man +chance to miss his aim, the furious beast will directly turn upon him in +a rage, and the little Laplander is obliged to take to his heels with +all possible speed, leaving his knapsack behind him on the spot. The +bear coming up with this, seizes upon it, biting and tearing it into a +thousand pieces. While he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all +his attention, upon the knapsack, the Laplander takes the opportunity +of loading his gun, and firing a second time; when he is generally sure +of hitting the mark, and the bear either falls upon the spot or runs +away. + + +_July 24._ + +In the huts of this neighbourhood I observed an instrument which I had +no where noticed before, consisting of an oblong board, placed +transversely at the end of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while +boiling. + +Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the west, and on the south of the +mountain of Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but hardly worth +working while the roads, by which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are in +so bad a state. + +This night I beheld a star, for the first time since I came within the +arctic circle. Nevertheless the darkness was not considerable enough to +prevent my reading or writing whatever I pleased. + +One of the Laplanders had caught a quantity of the fish called +_Sikloja_ (_Salmo Albula_) of a large size. He stuck about twenty of +them on one spit, the back of each being placed towards the belly of the +next, and they were thus roasted before the fire. These fish had +previously been dried, though not at all salted. + +The glue used by the Laplanders for joining the two portions of +different woods of which their bows are made (see _p._ 66,) is prepared +from the Common Perch (_Perca fluviatilis_) in the following manner. +Some of the largest of this fish being flayed, the skins are first +dried, and afterwards soaked in a small quantity of cold water, so that +the scales can be rubbed off. Four or five of these skins being wrapped +up together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch bark, so that no water +can get at them, are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil, a stone +being laid over the pot, to keep in the heat. The skins thus prepared +make a very strong glue, insomuch that the articles joined with it will +never separate again. A bandage is tied round the bow while making, to +hold the two parts the more firmly together. + +When these people undertake a short journey only, they carry no bag for +provisions, the latter being stored between their outer and inner +jackets, which are always bound with a girdle, being wide, and formed of +numerous folds, both above and below it. + +The Purple Willow-herb, or _Epilobium_ (_angustifolium_?) made the +fields at this time very beautiful. The Golden-rod (_Solidago +Virgaurea_) was likewise here in blossom, though not yet upon the alps, +where it flowers later. + +I have never yet seen any animal swim so light as the reindeer. During +the dogdays the herds of reindeer, belonging to the inhabitants of the +woody parts of Lapland, are very badly off for want of snow, with which +those animals refresh themselves in hot weather upon the alps. Hence +they constitute a more valuable and thriving property to the alpine +Laplanders than to any others. In the winter time, when the favourite +Lichen of the reindeer (_L. rangiferinus_) cannot be got at, their +keepers fell trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to serve them for +food; but it scarcely proves sufficient. + +The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a very white appearance, as if milk +had been mixed with it. This the inhabitants term _kalkwatter_, or +lime-water, from the colour, not from any knowledge of its cause or +origin. This rivulet they told me came from the alps. It empties itself +into the great river near Kiomitis, and renders the water of that river +white for the space of four or five miles. I noticed a similar +ph[ae]nomenon at Wirijaur. + +I was amused with the mode in which these Laplanders take brandy. After +they have laid hold of the mug, they dip their forefingers into the +liquor, and rub a little on their foreheads, as well as on the middle of +their bosoms. On inquiring the reason, I was told their intention was +that the brandy might not prove hurtful either to the head or breast. + +Some people here were regaling themselves with fresh fish, of the kind +lately mentioned (_Salmo Albula_), which having boiled into a mass like +pap or flummery, they were eating out of their hands. + +The dress of the Laplanders is, in one particular at least, very wisely +contrived. Their thick collars effectually protect the throat and +breast, which being furnished with numerous nerves and small muscles, +and being the seat of the windpipe and of many principal veins and +arteries, are very important and susceptible parts. The neck moreover, +from its slender shape, is peculiarly exposed to cold. Hence the +protection of clothing is found very necessary to the parts in question. +For want of it our young women suffer much injury, which our youths +avoid by running into the contrary extreme of tying their neckcloths so +tight as to make themselves as red in the face as if they were half +strangled. + +We Swedes are accustomed to have all our clothing made very tight. Not +only the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings, +sleeves, &c., must all stick close to the body, and the tighter they are +the more fashionable. The Laplanders, on the contrary, wear only two, +and those slight, bandages about them, which moreover are broad, and +therefore less injurious than a narrow bandage in any part. Those to +which I allude are the waistband and knees of their breeches, both made +sufficiently loose and easy. + +To-day I gathered the following plants.--A reed-like panicled Grass, +with a very slender branched stem. (This appears to have been _Arundo +Calamagrostis_, _Fl. Lapp._ _n._ 42.) + +A great aquatic _Carex_, with inflated, whitish, pendulous spikes. In +more dry situations they were upright and shorter, but in every other +particular the same. (_C. vesicaria._) A grass with a slender +dark-coloured panicle, approaching the stem. (_Agrostis rubra_, _Fl. +Lapp._ _n._ 46.) + + +_July 25._ + +The lakes in this part of the country did not afford me so many plants +as further south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and destitute of +vegetation. Their shores were no less barren. No Water-lilies +(_Nymph[ae][ae]_), no Water-docks, &c., (different species of _Rumex_,) grew +about their borders, but the surface of the water itself was covered +with the Water Ranunculus (_R. aquatilis_), bearing round as well as +capillary leaves, and whitening the whole with its blossoms. I could not +but wonder to see these broad patches of white spread over the lakes, +though, when I passed up the country but a fortnight before, I had not +perceived the least appearance of even the herbage of the _Ranunculus_ +that composed them. Now its branches, an ell in length, swam on the +surface. The growth of the stem must be very rapid, as it often +proceeded from a depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants thrown up on +the shore had capillary leaves, as are all those which grow under the +water. The root resembles that of the _Iris_. + +I noticed also the Pondweed with leaves clasping the stem (_Potamogeton +perfoliatum_, rare in Lapland); and a very large branched floating +Water-grass, with cylindrical spikes, which I hesitate whether to +separate from the _Gramen aquaticum geniculatum spicatum_, (of Bauhin +and Rudbeck. _Alopecurus geniculatus_ of Linn[ae]us. The grass of which he +here speaks is _n._ 38 of his _Flora Lapponica._ _A. geniculatus_ +[beta], _Sp. Pl._ 89.) + +The annexed figure represents the Norwegian cross-bow, used for shooting +squirrels, which it will hit at the distance of twenty or thirty paces +as certainly as a gun. + +It was curious to observe the dexterity with which one of the +Laplanders hit a small fly, which I had set up for a mark, at the +distance of thirty paces. + +[Illustration] + +The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is two feet and a half long, two +inches wide in the middle, gradually sloping off to the extremities, +which are only one inch in width. Each end is rounded, with a notch, +where the cord is fixed, which, when the bow is drawn, seems in danger +of immediately slipping off, but it never does. The whole bow when at +rest makes a curve of two inches; when strongly bent it forms one of +seven. + +The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is made of twisted hemp, as thick +as one's finger, bound round with hempen thread, especially in the +middle, where it is to receive the bolt. + +The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented with inlaid work of bone, is two +feet and a half long, and half a palm broad, being half an inch thick +towards the top, and an inch at the base. Its upper side is entirely +covered with the above-mentioned inlaying, and quite even or flat, +except towards the base or handle, where it is slightly concave. + +The part marked d on the bow, and D on a larger scale annexed, is the +catch, like a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and in the side of +which is a projection, with a rectangular notch, see _fig._ 1 and 2. +When the bow is bent, the angle at _fig._ 2 catches the cord, and is let +go by means of the apparatus represented at c, c, by the side. + +As no human being is sufficiently strong to draw this bow with the hands +alone, a strap of leather is fixed round the loins, ending in two iron +hooks, which lay hold of the cord. One foot is put into the strap at the +top of the bow, h, and then, by the exertion of the body, the bow is +drawn till the cord catches the angle of the pulley D. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed cut represents the bolt of this Norwegian crossbow, which is +a foot and half long, an inch thick. From the extremity, which is +thicker and blunt, to the feathered part, is about a foot. The feathers, +taken from the wing of the great Grous or Cock of the wood, (_Tetrao +Urogallus_,) are stripped from the quill, and placed erect in three +longitudinal rows; and after being bound on with thread, the part by +which they are attached is smeared with pitch, to fix them the more +firmly. The whole bolt is made of birch wood. Its base is compressed, +naked and smooth, formed with a groove to receive the bow-string. + +This more finished and elaborate sort of bow is principally used in +Westbothnia. The whole cost of one, with all its appurtenances, amounts +to fifteen dollars, copper money. The Laplanders therefore content +themselves with a far more rude and simple apparatus, consisting of such +a wooden bow made of birch, as I have already described, with a string +fitted to it. Or they merely cut a branch of fir in the forest, and with +any bit of cord that happens to come in their way, kill abundance of +squirrels, holding the bow with their left hand, and drawing it with +their right by means of a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I have +witnessed, take successful aim at the _Emberiza nivalis_, or Snow +Bunting, sitting on the tops of the most lofty pines. + +It is commonly reported that no clay is to be found in Lapland, but I +met with some in two different places; in each instance indeed it was at +the bottom of a lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask, the shores +being of sand though the bottom was clay. + +Nets are set in the lakes in winter to catch the Sijk fish (_Salmo +Lavaretus_, or Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose in the ice, +and the nets are dragged with a string. This is done from St. Andrew's +day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas. + +The Laplanders make their sledges serve for chests, when they are not +used for their proper purpose, by constructing a sort of roof or convex +covering, with an opening in the middle, to admit whatever they choose +to store up within. This opening shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in +this state occasionally serve for the conveyance of goods from one place +to another, the covering keeping them dry. + +Caps are made of the skin of the _Colymbus arcticus_, (Black-throated +Diver,) which is very tough when properly prepared. This bird has a grey +ring round its neck, as described by Wormius. + +I met with a _Carex_, bearing round capsules, full of black powder. +(Probably _Carex panicea_, whose seeds are often infected with the +_ustilago_ or smut.) + + +_July 26._ + +I shall here give a description of the _Achier_ or sledge. This is a +kind of travelling machine invented by the Laplanders, drawn along the +ground like other sledges, and made of birch wood. The back part is +upright, or nearly so, the lower part only being somewhat sloping +inwards, and its form is roundish, the height a foot, the breadth a foot +and a half. The body of the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with an +obtuse keel, and consists of five longitudinal boards on each side, +lying one over the edge of another; that which forms the keel being +about an inch thick, and lying flat like the others. Each board is not +externally plane, but convex, so that as the carriage is drawn over the +snow it leaves several tracks or lines where it goes, the board which +forms the keel only being quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at one +extremity in a circular manner to the roundish board that makes the +back, (or as it were the stern,) are collected by their points at the +other, and all bound together with a rope, for there are no nails to +fasten them. The whole carriage is six feet in length, and from the back +part to within two feet of the front its breadth is all the way about +four feet. From that spot the keel begins to curve upwards, and the +transverse dimensions are contracted gradually to a point. This sledge +is drawn by a rope that goes through a hole in the front of the keel. +The edges or sides of the machine do not curve outwards, but rather +inwards. When any covering is to be put on, which is always done in part +when any person is to travel sitting in this carriage, and entirely, +from one end to the other, when it is intended to be used for the +conveyance of goods, two or three semicircular or archlike bows are +erected, fixed by their ends within the edges of the carriage, which +serve to support a covering of seal-skin, or cloth, whose margin next +the back is loose, and so far distant from that part as to allow the +traveller to sit upright, his legs lying under the cover, while the said +margin is tied round his waist, like an apron, serving to keep the snow +out of the hollow part of the machine. The person of the traveller is +further secured by strings fixed to the edges of the carriage, which +lace around him across the top, so as to prevent his being thrown out by +any oblique or unexpected movement. Each board, which composes the body +of the sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside, but still the whole +internal surface is sufficiently smooth and even. The point in front +sometimes projects a foot beyond the hollow part[5]. + +It is worthy of notice that the Laplanders use no almanack, but in its +stead only a kind of instrument like the ancient runic calendar of the +Goths, composed of seven small splinters or boards. They have indeed +names to mark some periods, as already mentioned p. 62; but they do not, +like us, compute time by the month, but by the course of their various +holidays. They have also a name for every week. They are unable to tell +when an eclipse of the sun or moon is to be expected. The year begins, +by their reckoning, on the Friday before Christmas day. + +The people in the part of the country where I was now travelling wear, +in summertime, either a coat of walmal cloth next the skin, or no coat +at all, only a _lappmudd_ as they call it, (or garment of +reindeer-skin,) stripped of its hair. + +At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where we in vain attempted to procure a +boat. We had no resource but to make ourselves a float or raft, on which +we committed our persons and all our property to the guidance of the +current of the river. The night proved very dark in consequence of a +thick fog, insomuch that we could not see before us to the distance of +three fathoms. After a while we found ourselves in the middle of the +stream, and it was not long before the force of the water separated the +timbers of our raft, and we were in imminent danger of our lives. At +length however, with the greatest difficulty, we reached a house +situated on an island, after a voyage of half a mile from where we +embarked[6]. + +At Purkijaur I hired a man to show me the manner of fishing for pearls, +for which I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made a raft of five +timbers as thick as my body, and two fathoms in length. At each end was +a staple to which the anchor was attached. This anchor was nothing more +than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch that it might not be lost, +to which he fastened a cord, about two fathoms in length, made of birch +twigs. He was likewise furnished with a pole of the same length, which +served him to steer his raft, as it floated along the strong current. +The bottom of the river is not easily seen at any great depth; but when +he could distinctly perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor, fixing the +upper end of the rope to the staple on the raft, by which it became +stationary. Whenever he wished to examine another spot, he weighed +anchor, and resigned himself to the force of the current. Where the +water was shallow, he stood upright on his raft; but where the depth was +considerable, he lay at full length, with his face downwards, looking +over the edge of the raft. + +By means of a pair of wooden pincers, two fathoms in length, he laid +hold of the pearl oysters (rather muscles, _Mya margaritifera_,) and +drew them up. The part of the pincers below the joint or hinge was about +a span long, and of three fingers breadth, hollowed out at the points, +one of which was curved, the other flat. Taking the other end of these +pincers in his hands, he easily directed them to the spot where he saw +the shells lying. + +The latter were generally open, so that they might readily be discerned +by the whiteness of their inside; but when the water is very much +agitated, the animals immediately close their shells, though destitute +of eyes or ears. + +The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong, with a contraction, or +shallow notch as it were, about the middle of their outer margin. The +man opened them by means of a whilk shell, which he thrust with violence +between the valves, for it is impossible to effect this with the finger +only. He introduced the point of the whilk in the centre of the base, or +broader end, of the muscle, searching for the pearls chiefly towards the +other end, on the inside of the valve. If the inside of the latter be +white, the pearl is white; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is of the +same colour. + +When it was first discovered that this neighbourhood produced pearls, +the river at Purkijaur was the place where the principal pearl-fishery +was established. But now it is nearly exhausted. When the discovery of +this bed of pearl muscles was first made, it is said the shells were in +such abundance that nobody could reach the bottom of them, which is far +from being the case at present. + +There is no external sign about the shell, by which it is possible to +know whether it contains a pearl or not. Consequently many thousands are +destroyed to no purpose before one pearl is found. It is also a great +pity that all the muscles are killed in consequence of this examination. +Each pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose. They are found at +all seasons of the year, and are sometimes thrown out of the shell +spontaneously by its inhabitant. + +I witnessed at this place what appeared to me a very extraordinary +phenomenon, a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was found a young duck +entire. The peasant who was my companion told me he had many times seen +the same thing. + + +_July 27._ + +The reindeer fed with evident avidity on the great water Horsetail +(_Equisetum fluviatile_), which the Laplanders call _Aske_, though it +was in a dry state, and though they will not eat common hay. How +unaccountably negligent are the Laplanders, not to collect in the +course of summer a stack of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_) for winter fodder! They would then have some provision +for the herd, when the country is covered with an impenetrable crust of +frozen snow, and not hazard the loss of all they are worth in the world. + +The inhabitants of Westbothnia, to defend themselves against the bites +of gnats, besmear their skin with a mixture of tar and fish-grease, or +some other kind of fat. They keep this composition in a horn which hangs +at their side. The Laplanders however give themselves no trouble about +any such matter. + +In order to add to the pungency of the tobacco which they are in the +habit of chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the root of _Angelica_. +(_A. Archangelica_ is preferred, but when that is not at hand, the +_sylvestris_ is used, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_.) + +The women wear their belts in the same manner as the men, except when +they are big with child, in which case the belt must necessarily be +placed much higher than ordinary. + +This day I found the little heart-leaved _Ophrys_ (_O. cordata_) +growing, as it usually does, amongst the _Rubus Cham[ae]morus_, whilst I +was gathering the fruit of the latter. Also the least _Pinguicula_ (_P. +villosa_); but its leaves were withered, and the fruit was ripe, which +is heartshaped and emarginate, of two valves and one cell. The +last-mentioned plant grew among White-moss (_Sphagnum palustre._ These +specimens are still preserved in the Linn[ae]an herbarium.) + +The bird called (by the Swedes) Lappskata, R[:o]dfogel in Westbothland, +Gvousach in Lapland, (_Corvus infaustus_, _Faun. Suec._ 32. _Lath. Ind._ +159. _Lanius infaustus_, _Syst. Nat._ _v._ 1. 138,) is of a small size, +but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it can find, being so far from +timid that it flew away with part of our provisions as we sat at table. +This bird seems nearly allied to the Jay (_Corvus glandarius_). + +It is only in winter the clothes of the Laplanders have any sort of +lining, except that these people generally wear, next the stomach, the +skin of a young reindeer fawn. The sleeves of their coats are not fixed +to the jacket, or body of the garment. The part which covers the +shoulder folds over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of a wedge. A +seam reaches the whole length of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each +side, the jacket becoming gradually wider, downward. It reaches as low +as the middle of the leg. The collar is for the most part blue, stitched +with white thread. + +The reindeer are not slaughtered in the same manner as cattle usually +are either at Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal being secured with a +halter, the Laplander takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax +behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the heart. By this means the blood +collects in the cavity of the thorax, none of it appearing externally. +After the skin is flayed off, the blood is found coagulated in the +thorax, from whence it is extracted, and bruised into a soft mass. With +this the poorer sort of people make a kind of soup, by boiling along +with it the brains of the animal, which the rich do not eat. The +testicles are never eaten by any sort of people. The _penis_ serves to +make a thong to draw the sledges. + +Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the forests go to the alps at +midsummer and return about St. Laurence's day (August 10th); and the +mountain Laplanders descend into the lower country between the first of +November and Christmas, and go back again about Lady-day. + +All kinds of clothing made of skins are sewed with sinews of animals, as +before described; but those of walmal cloth, with hempen thread +purchased from the neighbouring countries. + + +_July 28._ + +To-day I found the _Pseudo-helleborine_; (possibly _Cypripedium +Calceolus_, not before mentioned in this journal.) + +All the little rills and rivulets hereabouts produced a _Potamogeton_, +which I was doubtful whether to distinguish from the common kind, as it +varies excessively in appearance, but the leaves are more grassy. (_P. +gramineum_, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_, yet nothing can be +less like the "common kind," if by the latter be meant the _natans_, +which, with the _perfoliatum_ and _gramineum_, compose the catalogue of +species in _Fl. Lapp._) + +Hereabouts grew the _Juncus_ with three seeds (_capsules_) at the top of +the stem, which also I observed to be sometimes reflexed. (_J. +triglumis_; see _Fl. Lapp._ ed. 2. 90.) + +Several days ago the forests had been set on fire by lightning, and the +flames raged at this time with great violence, owing to the drought of +the season. In many different places, perhaps in nine or ten that came +under my notice, the devastation extended several miles' distance. I +traversed a space three quarters of a mile in extent which was entirely +burnt, so that Flora, instead of appearing in her gay and verdant +attire, was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhorrent to my feelings +than to see her clad in the white livery of winter, for this, though it +destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in safety, which the fire does +not. The fire was nearly extinguished in most of the spots we visited, +except in ant-hills, and dry trunks of trees. After we had travelled +about half a quarter of a mile across one of these scenes of desolation, +the wind began to blow with rather more force than it had done, upon +which a sudden noise arose in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only +compare to what may be imagined among a large army attacked by an enemy. +We knew not whither to turn our steps. The smoke would not suffer us to +remain where we were, nor durst we turn back. It seemed best to hasten +forward, in hopes of speedily reaching the outskirts of the wood; but +in this we were disappointed. We ran as fast as we could, in order to +avoid being crushed by the falling trees, some of which threatened us +every minute. Sometimes the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden, that we +stood aghast, not knowing whither to turn to escape destruction, and +throwing ourselves entirely on the protection of Providence. In one +instance a large tree fell exactly between me and my guide, who walked +not more than a fathom from me, but, thanks to God! we both escaped in +safety. We were not a little rejoiced when this perilous adventure +terminated, for we had felt all the while like a couple of outlaws, in +momentary fear of surprise. + +I have long ago related my sufferings from gnats in the course of my +Lapland expedition. In this place I was still more incommoded by some +very small flies, about a line in length and very narrow. Their breast +was of a blueish grey. Front of the head whitish, with black eyes. +Wings pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and narrow. A white scale was +placed on each side at the insertion of the wings. The legs were black, +with a white joint in the middle of each, the base being speckled. The +hind part of the shoulders was whitish. _Antenn[ae]_ simple, minute, +parallel, and pointing right forward. The wings lay one over the other +so as to resemble a single one, notched at the extremity, when the +insect was at rest. Each of us was beset by a whole legion of these +flies towards sun-set. What rendered them peculiarly troublesome was +their manner of running over the face, and flying into the nose, mouth +and eyes. When they were approaching in order to inflict their bite, +they were not to be driven away by our blowing ever so hard. The +Laplanders call these insects _Mockere_, alluding to the smallness of +their head; the Swedes _Knott_. (_Culex reptans._ Linn[ae]us mentions in +the _Fauna Suecica_ the extremely tiresome noise made by these gnats in +their approach.) They covered our linen so as to render it quite black. +It was to no purpose to attempt to drive them away. (See _v._ 1. 208.) + +I visited the Laxholms, islands so called from the salmon fishery. Here +the Common Salmon (_Salmo Salar_, named _Lax_ by the Swedes,) is found +with the under jaw occasionally hooked, which variety is termed +_Kroklax_, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired whether this hooked kind was +esteemed a distinct species, or whether a difference arising from age; +to both which questions I was answered in the negative. I was shown fish +of the smallest size, which had in proportion as large a hook to the +lower jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore fallen into an error in +his dissertation upon salmon. (_Daniel Bonge_, _Dissertatio de Salmonum +natur[^a]_, _corumque apud Ostrobothnienses piscatione_, _Upsal._ 1730. +4to. under the presidency of Professor Roberg, with wooden cuts.) I +inquired whether the hooked salmon were furnished with roe or with milt. +I was answered that they had always milt. On opening seven of them I +found this verified, whereas four salmon which were not hooked had all +of them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon is so called, because the +point of its lower jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form, resembling +a finger; while on the contrary the upper is furnished with a cavity to +receive that point, embracing it like a sheath, for about half its +length. The female fish has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less +inflexed, there being only a very slight furrow in the upper one; so +that the two sexes may be distinguished from each other by these marks +from the earliest age. + +Those who fish for salmon come to this place about a fortnight before +midsummer, and remain till St. Bartholomew's day, August 24th, as during +that space of time the salmon keep ascending the river. After the day +last mentioned none of the fishermen remain. Few of the fish escape +being taken, so as to return down the river. At Michaelmas the fishermen +come here again, when they catch a smaller sort of salmon. + +This day I observed the harvest beginning. The corn now cutting, though +sown but a few days before midsummer, was nevertheless quite ripe. The +lent rye was not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the winter rye ripens +some time before the other corn. Thus it appears that corn (barley) +springs up and ripens at this place in the space of sixty days. + +In my walks I gathered the berries of the Strawberry-leaved Bramble +(_Rubus arcticus_), which proved delicious. They have somewhat of the +flavour of Blackberries (_Rubus fruticosus_), but are more agreeable. +This fruit does not separate from its calyx like other specie of its +genus. It is a compound berry, in size and structure somewhat between +what the Smolanders call _Kodden_ (_Rubus saxatilis_), and Raspberries +(_R. id[ae]us_). Its colour is a brownish crimson. + +The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ is perennial, with scales, not +a fibrous tuft or beard, at the root[7]. The stem is round, not +quadrangular. Calyx five-cleft[8]. Lower lip regular, divided into three +equal segments. + +_Pedicularis_ with a purple head (_Bartsia alpina._ _Linn. Sp. Pl._ 839. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 361. _Euphrasia._ _Fl. Lapp. n._ 246.) shows an affinity +to the _Crista Galli_ (_Rhinanthus_) in its calyx, which is divided into +four equal acute segments. The fruit is ovate and acute, compressed at +the point. Lower lip straight. All the other _Pediculares_, except +_Sceptrum Carolinum_, have an oblique fruit. + +Here and there grew specimens of Heath (_Erica vulgaris_) with tufted +branches, looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very beautiful. + +The water of the river now began to decrease, in consequence of which it +became clearer, and it was more difficult to catch any fish. + +Scarcely any species of _Carex_ was to be found this season but what had +some degree of smut or _ustilago_ about its spikes, consisting of little +globular black bodies, changing to dust. + + +_July 29._ + +Tanning of leather is thus performed by the Laplanders. + +The scaly cuticle of the birch being first stripped off, the bark is +then scraped from the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about as long +a time as is requisite to boil fish; being afterwards set by to cool, to +a certain degree, that it may not injure the hide by being too hot. The +latter, having previously been scalded, by dipping into luke-warm water, +is then soaked in the decoction of bark, and the vessel containing it +sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the extremity of the hut. The +hide is taken out every day, and softened in luke-warm water, till the +hair becomes loose, when it is scraped off by such a knife as tanners +use. The skin is then replaced in the tan when cool, without any +previous drying, till the third day after the hair comes off, when it is +hung up to dry in the shade. When the leather is but half dry, they +often cut it up for shoes, which are always made by the women, without +any last. The thread used for the purpose is that made of tendons. + +Some persons never scald the hide, but scrape off the hair with a knife, +soak it a little in water, and then plunge it into the tan. + +Near Swartl[:a]r I noticed a mineral spring, but whatever may be its +qualities, nobody has yet made any inquiries concerning them. + +The river Lulea divides into two branches, not far above the bounds of +Lapmark and Westbothnia, one of which is called the little river Lulea, +whose origin is among the mountains towards Hyttan, the other Stor +Lulea, running from the alps in N[:o]rbattra. + + +_July 30._ + +On examining the cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), I found the +structure of the female as follows. Calyx consisting of an universal +involucrum of four leaves, and a partial one, likewise of four ovate +leaves, containing eight florets, each of which has an ovate spatha, of +a very large size with respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Petals +none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas acute. Seed-vessel none, the base +of the spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary. + +The shore of the river Lulea produced, in excessive abundance, the Water +Sedum (_Till[ae]a aquatica_); likewise the Aquatic Dwarf Plantain +(_Limosella aquatica_). The Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here +grew above other plants, twisting its leaves round them, like a sort of +bindweed. (_Alopecurus geniculatus_ [beta]. _Sp. Pl._ 89. See _Fl. Lapp. +n._ 38.) + +The Water Sedum (_Till[ae]a aquatica_) proved no less plentiful by the +sides of the roads. + +In the river I gathered an herb, which I was doubtful whether to refer +to _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), to _Potamogeton_, or to the _Aponogeton_ +of Pontedera. (This appears to have been the latter, _Zannichellia +palustris_.) + +I reached the old town of Lulea in the evening. + +It rained and thundered violently during the whole night. + + +_July 31._ + +This day I had intended to prosecute my journey towards Tornea, but a +heavy rain, with tremendous thunder and lightning, confined me entirely +to the house. + +The wife of the principal clergyman of Lulea, on whose accuracy I have +the greatest possible dependance, assured me that she had, at the +posthouse of Biorsi[:o], in the parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large +quantities of the Yellow Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_; see vol. 1. +36), collected and boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage. This +astonished her very much, as she knew it to be used in Jemtland to +poison flies. When she expressed her apprehensions about eating of this +herb, the maid-servant laughed at her, telling her it was much too good +to be so slighted. + +Hares are always hunted in this part of the country, and the dogs are +trained not to bark. If they offend in this respect they are sure of a +beating. + + +_August 1._ + +I found some Truffles (_Lycoperdon Tuber_) between Heden and Swartl[:a]. + +Near the road grew _Glaux_ (_maritima_), as well as the Narrow-leaved +Sea Plantain (_Plantago maritima_), and Small-leaved _Angelica_ (_A. +sylvestris_). On a bank I observed _Triticum maritimum_. (This last is +thought by Dr. Afzelius to be _Elymus arenarius_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2 +_n._ 34.) + +Here various plants, which I had found blossoming at Um[oe]a, were now +laden with fruit, as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Vaccinia_ +(Whortle-berries), _Cham[ae]morus_ (_Rubus Cham[ae]morus_, Cloud-berry), and +_Cham[ae]rubus_ (_R. saxatilis_, Stone Bramble), all which vied with each +other in the profusion of their berries. But little Ling (_Erica_) was +to be seen. + +The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds, which had partly been burnt, +were covered with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_). + +Towards evening I arrived at Tornea. The weather was fine. + +Near Grotn[:a]s, situated opposite to the church of Calix, is a ferry to +convey passengers to this church, adjoining to which the inhabitants of +Lulea and Tornea keep a fair. + +The river produces abundance of Flote-grass, which at this time bore its +spikes or heads of flowers. I had long been acquainted with the plant, +it being very abundant in this country as well as in Smoland, and had +wondered what species it could be; especially as I never heard of any +botanist who had met with the fructification. It is a _Sparganium_, +whose leaves are very long, reaching a fathom or two, according to the +depth of the water, and floating on its surface. They are convex at +their back, except in the lower part, which is flat on both sides. (This +plant named _Flotagr[ae]s_, or Flote-grass, in Linn[ae]us's native country of +Smoland, is the _Sparganium_ _n._ 345* of _Fl. Lapp._, in the second +edition of which work I have called it _S. natans_, on his own authority +in the _Flora Suecica_ and _Species Plantarum_; but in _English Botany,_ +_v._ 4. 273, and _Fl. Brit._ 962, this error is corrected, so far at +least as concerns the original Lapland specimen, which is unquestionably +_S. simplex_, _Engl. Bot._ _v._ 11. _t._ 745, a species he did not, in +his works, distinguish from our common _S. ramosum_, _t._ 744. I am now +persuaded he confounded this _simplex_ with the _natans_ in his Lapland +tour, as well as in his herbarium, where the original specimens of the +two are pinned together.) + + +_August._ 2 + +They dry their corn upon drying sheds as is practised in Smoland. The +cross piece is turned towards the south, but the method here differs +from that of the Smolanders in one respect. The latter place one sheaf +on the top of another, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia lay the +sheaves cross-wise, in an alternate order, each thinking their own +method the best for procuring the most complete ventilation. In this +country fifteen sheaves are lodged under each shed, without supporters; +but in Smoland twelve only, ten of which are in the main pile and two at +the sides. The Smolanders therefore are able to reach high enough to +place their uppermost sheaves by hand, but the inhabitants of +Westbothnia find it necessary to be provided with what they term a +_Skyllkrok_, or Rick-hook, consisting of a round pole, with a +transverse projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-post in England, +as appears by the sketch in the manuscript,) by means of which each +sheaf is lifted up. + +On a heath very near the river Sangis I noticed some earth of a red +colour. The dry part of the forest which had been burnt down, produced +Reindeer-moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_) in such abundance, that the whole +face of the ground was covered with it. + +The evening was fine when I reached Zangis (or Sangis), where I took +leave of my native tongue. + + +_August 3._ + +At sun-rise the marshes were all white with hoar frost. In the preceding +night winter had paid his first visit, and slept in the lap of the +lovely Flora. I did not observe that she had suffered from her rude +visitor, except with regard to the _Dracontium_ (_Calla palustris_), the +leaves of which assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest in bloom at +this place, are _Erica_ (_vulgaris_), the Red-flowered Persicaria +(_Polygonum Persicaria_), and _Hieracium pr[ae]morsum_ (_Leontodon +autumnale_, _Sp. Pl._ 1123. _Hedypnois autumnalis_, _Fl. Brit._ 826. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 830.) + +On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-tongue behind me. At Saris I met +with native Finlanders only, whose language was unintelligible to me. + +Here grew the _Masarooth_ (_Selinum palustre_) with a proliferous umbel. + +The mouse-traps used here are made like those for catching squirrels; +which I have already described. + +Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tornea are three ferries to pass. In +my way I noticed a new species of _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), of a +small size, not leafy at the top, erect, not creeping like the _S. +minor_; (see _Fl. Lapp. n._ 2. _var._ [gamma].) It had the appearance of +_Potamogeton graminifolium_ (_gramineum_). (What particular state or +appearance of the _Callitriche_ this might be, does not appear, nor is +it mentioned in _Fl. Lapp._) + +I reached Tornea by three o'clock. + + + + +TORNEA. + + +_August 4._ + +A reindeer may be driven in a carriage twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, +or, at the utmost, fifteen; but the animal is generally killed +immediately afterwards with the Laplanders' spears, and eaten. + +The Laplanders are perhaps so called from the (Swedish) word _lappa_, to +sew or patch together, because their garments usually answer to that +description. + +The degree of cold is certainly greater on the alps than in less +elevated regions; for instance, it is colder in Jamtland than at Tornea, +though the former lies about one hundred miles further south. Thus it +appears that the cause of the severity of the cold does not depend so +much on the approach towards the pole, as on the elevation of the +ground, which ought to be carefully observed. Hence the plants of the +north of Lapland are such only as are capable of resisting the most +severe and long-continued cold, and hence snow lies on the alps of +Italy. + +Alpine plants are, for the most part, perennial, except the Little Blue +Centaury (_Gentiana nivalis_), and perhaps the Single-flowered _Lychnis_ +(_apetala_). I wish botanists would endeavour to discover and make known +any new kinds of pulse or grain, especially such as are of a hardy +constitution, and not likely to suffer from the severity of winter. Some +are perhaps to be found among the grasses. It is necessary to ascertain +what degree of northern latitude they would bear, and whether they are +capable of growing within the frigid zone. It is worthy of inquiry in +what respects the Alps, properly so called (of Switzerland,) agree with +ours of Lapland, as well as how far, and by what means, they are +susceptible of culture. The descriptions that have been given of them +may be consulted. The Greenland alps would also be worth examining, to +see how far these different countries agree in their native plants, in +varieties of situation, and in plenty of soil, compared with the +proportion of rocks or large stones. Do they all agree in the diminutive +stature of their plants? + +The tranquil existence of the Laplanders answers to Ovid's description +of the golden age, and to the pastoral state as depicted by Virgil. It +recalls the remembrance of the patriarchal life, and the poetical +descriptions of the Elysian fields. + +So many Finlanders crowded about me, that I scarcely knew what to do. +They were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to be nearly blind. Many of +them were perfectly deprived of sight, and ninety-nine out of a hundred +that were so had their eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe any +remedy for this evil, so long as its cause is every where so prevalent. +This consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had the management of +these Finlanders, I would tie them up to the wall and give them fifteen +pair of lashes apiece till they made chimneys to their huts, especially +as they have such plenty of fire-wood. This improvement in the comfort +of their dwellings might surely be accomplished by the authority of the +chief magistrate, for I have not been able to learn any sufficient +reason for their adherence to their old way of building. If people +thirty or forty years of age are thus afflicted, what must become of +them by the time they are seventy? + +The Finlander's scythe is represented in the annexed figure. + +[Illustration] + +The handle is rather above two feet in length, straight for about the +space of a foot from the part where the blade is bound on. Afterwards it +is slightly curved outwards, and then again, towards the apex, in some +degree inwards so as to make a straight line with the base. The top is +thicker than any other part. The blade of the scythe is, like that used +in our country, about a foot and a half long, and an inch and half +broad, very slightly curved. Its back is, like that of our scythes, +thickened on one side. The mower takes hold of the top with his left +hand, so that the back of the scythe is uppermost, but grasps with his +right the part where the above-described curvature ends, so as to be +able to give the edge a turn upwards. As he moves forward, he mows first +on the right, and then on the left, only turning his hands, and not +lifting the scythe, but merely presenting each side of its blade +alternately to the ground. + +On the south-west side of the town, across a small bay, lies a mineral +spring. The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is one of the best +mineral waters I have met with in the north; but it lies very low, +appearing to derive its origin from a stream that runs above, so that +its water comes out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and is covered +with scum. + + +_August 5._ + +Every body at Tornea was continually talking to me of a distemper to +which their horned cattle are subject, and which kills many of them in +the course of the winter, but especially in the spring, when they lose +from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost every year. On walking to +examine the meadow into which they are first turned out to grass, I +found it a bog or marsh, where the Water Hemlock, _Cicuta aquatica_, +(_C. virosa_, _Sp. Pl._ 366. _Fl. Lapp. n._ 103. _Engl. Bot. t._ 479.) +grew in abundance, and had evidently been cropped plentifully by the +animals in feeding. It seemed probable therefore that they eat it most +in the spring, when first turned into this pasture; whence it proves so +much more extensively fatal than in summer, when perhaps they only pick +up a plant here and there. It grows in all the moist meadows which are +mown for hay; consequently the cattle take it likewise in their winter +food, and therefore perish, more or less, during that time of the year. +We learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave it to various kinds of +animals, what violent symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing +appeared to me so interesting, during my visit to Tornea, as to examine +into the cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas be right, the whole +might be prevented by employing a woman for a month to eradicate all the +_Cicuta_; by which this town, small as it is, might save above two +hundred silver dollars. I was informed that the cattle dying from this +cause become so infectious, that they cannot be flayed without great +danger. The persons employed in that business have their hands greatly +swelled by touching the carcase, and several have lost their lives in +consequence. The plant in question, therefore, agrees in qualities with +the _[OE]nanthe_, as it does likewise in place of growth and outward +appearance, especially in the _pinn[ae]_ of its leaves.[9] + +The meadows hereabouts, among the thickets towards the shore of the bay, +afforded me the following plants. + +1. _Veronica_ (_maritima_), with an erect stem, branched in the upper +part, and bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves acute, cordate-oblong, +sharply serrated, the upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, or +four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla tubular, divided two +thirds of its length into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, +ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the lower three-cleft, the middle +segment narrowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two, very long, +awlshaped, situated at the separation of the two lips. Hence the flower +is of the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule heartshaped, narrow +at the upper edge. The flowers are numerous in each spike. + +2. Selleri, (_Apium graveolens_[10],) unless I am much mistaken. The +petals are white, spreading, and acute. The partial umbels are broad. +The general one has very rarely one or two (leaves of an involucrum?). + +3. _Galium parisiense_ (_uliginosum_), with a square, furrowed, +procumbent stem. The leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the +extremity, acute, armed with little prickles as well as the stem. The +flower is not tubular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter are white, as +is also the flower. Four leaves grow together in the lower part of the +stem, but in the upper part six. Under the little umbels of flowers are +either four or two. + +4. _Galium album_ (_boreale_). Stem square, erect, branched, especially +in the upper part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather broader towards +their base, three-nerved, slightly reflexed at the margin. There are two +leaves to each of the lesser umbels. Seeds two, roundish, joined into a +didymous shape, downy. Flower not tubular. + +5. _Cruciata_, if I am not mistaken. (_Galium palustre_, that is, +_Cruciata palustris alba_ of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, +bluntish, narrower towards their base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. +See what I gathered in the woody parts of Lulean Lapland. (This was the +same species, as appears by the _Fl. Lapp._) + +6. _Clymenum parisiense_ (_Lathyrus palustris_). Stem triangular, two of +its angles ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed border. There +are two little oblong pointed angular leaflets at the insertion of the +leaves, which latter are pinnated, ending in a tendril, and composed of +two or three pair of nearly lanceolate _pinn[ae]_. The flowers are +violet-coloured, three or four on each common stalk. + +7. _Angelica tenuifolia_ (_sylvestris_), which I would define _A. +umbellulis globosis_. The general umbel, though often naked, is commonly +furnished with one, two, or as far as five, very slender leaves; each +partial one has often as many as eight. It is curious that when the +plant blooms vigorously, none of the stalks of the umbel can be seen, +but the flowers form a complete ball, like the Double Guelder-rose +(_Sambucus Opulus_, _flore pleno_,) or the Globe Thistle (_Echinops +Sph[ae]rocephalus_). The petals are lanceolate and spreading. Stem +striated, or slightly furrowed. + +8. _Cicuta aquatica_ of Wepfer (_C. virosa_ above mentioned). I am +disposed to refer this plant to _[OE]nanthe_, on account of its external +aspect, which is wonderfully like the last-mentioned genus. I must +examine whether their flowers agree. The footstalks are hollow, +inflated, and erect. _Pinn[ae]_ three, rarely four, pair, of a narrow +lanceolate shape. Those on the stem have from three to seven serratures +each, but the radical ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes the +lowermost serrature, at the lower edge, grows out into a sort of +spurious _pinnula_. The top of the stem bears from one to three umbels; +the general umbel being naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary +leaflet[11]. The partial ones have seven short, narrow, acute leaflets. +The tips of the petals are inflexed. + +9. (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_. Its capsules are rose-coloured, +its flowers yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, and obtuse. The +capsules are about equal to the interstices of the spike, which all +together is about four inches long. + + +_August 6._ + +The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore a day of recreation for both +mind and body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a memorial of King +Charles the XIth's own observation of the sun on the 14th of June, 1694. +The sun was visible on that night till very near twelve, when a small +cloud hid it from the sight. It was however above the horizon[12]. In +winter the sun does not rise above the horizon, but at the solstice it +becomes visible. Could it be seen from the pole? + +The young women in Finland have much more swelling bosoms than those of +Lapland; the latter accord best with the description of the poet, + + "_Quales cruda viro puella servat._" + (_Mart._ lib. 8. ep. 63.) + + +_August 7._ + +The town of Tornea stands on a small island, inhabited close to the +shore on the south-west side. I call it an island, because it is bounded +on the north by a swamp; on the south-east by the great river of Tornea; +on the west and south-west by an arm of the sea, like a large river in +appearance, but so shallow that no vessel can approach within a mile of +the town on that side. This arm of the sea was formerly the _king's +road_, (a channel obliged to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry in +summer time, on the north side, towards the swamp. + +I ascended the steeple from whence his majesty king Charles the Eleventh +saw the sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694. + + +_August 8._ + +Nothing worth notice occurred. + + +_August 9._ + +Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi, where is a large salmon fishery, +for which this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for its meadows, and +Storlionis for its cornfields, but the last yield the greatest profit. + + +_August 10._ + +I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman in Kimi till the 11th. +This day I gathered a sort of Pink, _Caryophyllus_, with reflexed petals +of a purplish colour, divided into many segments almost to their base. +The claws, not contracted at the summit, bear on the upper side, at the +bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This was the beautiful and +fragrant _Dianthus superbus._) Also a _Salix_ with appendages at the +base of its leaves. (What species this was, does not appear.) At the +shore of the great river grew _Alsine repens_, _foliis gramineis_, +(_Stellaria uliginosa_, _Fl. Brit._ 476. _Engl. Bot. t._ 1074.) + +Lying-in women at this place are accustomed to drink brandy seasoned +with pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicating quality, by way of +a narcotic, and partly to bring on the labour pains. The clergyman's +wife told me an infallible method, as she said, to prevent the pains +which often follow childbirth. When the woman's first child is born, and +the umbilical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood is given her to +swallow. This is to be practised at every succeeding labour, and I was +assured that each would be rendered more easy, without any after pains. + +In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, it is customary to have the +dairy superintended by a superior female servant, called the _f[:a]bodar_, +who receives for each cow one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides +a pound of _mesosm[:o]r_. (See _v._ 1. 197.) + +To obtain a greater quantity of butter, the milk is set by, either in a +cellar or in a double-walled house, to be kept as cold as possible, for +at least two days, or so long as that it will not stick to the finger. +The milk will not turn sour, but will become very thin and blue, while +the cream collects on the top, of considerable thickness and in great +perfection. The cream being taken off, and put into the churn, often +proves so rich, that after it has been churned but a short time, if the +churn be laid on one side nothing will run out. It is no small labour to +churn such cream. + +Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being warmed before it is +coagulated. If the milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do for this +purpose. Such thin milk as this is not very fit for eating, but the whey +which separates from it in the making of cheese, is by some people made +into _syra_. (See _v._ 1. 243. _n._ 11.) This is done merely by putting +it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, when, if set by for a considerable +time, it will become extremely tough. Most usually however it is boiled, +and then kept for two or three days, when, some new milk being added, it +is boiled up again to the consistence of flummery, and then set by in +some kind of vessel. If it remains for a long while without being +touched, it grows hard, and becomes _mesosm[:o]r_. (_v._ 1. 243. _n._ 12.) +The blue milk above mentioned may be boiled like fresh milk, and does +not readily turn sour. + +_Gos-mj[:o]lk_, or rather _G[:a]s-mj[:o]lk_, (from the Swedish verb _g[:a]sa_, to +work or ferment,) is made as follows. The butter-milk is set by in a tub +till it begins to ferment, when about a third or fourth part of the +quantity of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed to work once +more. A serum by this time is formed at the bottom, which is drawn off +by means of a cock or tap, in the bottom of the tub, and used +immediately for food. A similar portion of fresh milk is then put to the +remainder, when more whey is, in due time, deposited. This practice is +repeated from time to time for the space of a fortnight, at the end of +which the milk in the tub becomes of a thick consistence, and is +excellent eating. + +_Servet-mj[:o]lk_ (Napkin Milk) is made by taking a quantity of sour milk +just beginning to ferment, when bubbles, like hydatids as it were, are +formed between the cream and the milk. This is cut across in various +directions, and the thicker substance taken off and hung up in a napkin, +that the liquid part may drain away. What remains in the napkin acquires +a firm consistence, and is eaten along with fresh sweet cream. + + + + +EAST BOTHLAND. + + +_August 11._ + +I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is +Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian. + +Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._ +1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or +middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small. + +A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards +the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears. + +In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the +_Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), +the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_. +(This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_, +formerly called _Coccognidium_.) + +I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was +almost out of flower. + +The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of +which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral +ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the +anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch +long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three +principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three +valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere +longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb +has the aspect of _Veratrum_. + + +_August 12._ + +The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with +Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_). +The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a +remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the +_Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_ +(Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Cham[ae]morus_, are here in +abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself +every where in the highway. + +The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally +against upright posts. + +The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of +the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an +oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a +flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not +partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see +_vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this +opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the +smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is +rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke +can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be +frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me +altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a +moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind +and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the +midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their +opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the +door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep +themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only +shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as +owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within +was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other +persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to +me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug. +On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was +actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were +accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours. + +I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast +them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their +fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the +truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the +winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome. + +I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings +have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season, +however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the +above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden +vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made, +stands a table. + +As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the +heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them +for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but +double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such +as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the +dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at +the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their +provisions, distil brandy, &c. + +The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses +in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on +longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve +outwards towards the top. + +This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so +that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper +part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made +bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for +this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time +quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The +sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed +ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf +being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards +carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance +of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones. + +The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in +Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or +depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon +the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned +horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door. + +By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches +high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale +above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499. +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.) + +[Illustration] + +The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the +Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from +the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c, +is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is +flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost +projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage +of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture. +The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions +of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b +to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches +in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of +c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute +angle with the handle. + +The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve +joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See +the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159) + +In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for +boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to +heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which +is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste +to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are +smoke-dried. + +During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable +cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find +themselves sufficiently warm. + +The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi. + +[Illustration] + + a, the base, is three palms long and one broad. + + b, b, handles, each a palm in length. + + c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure. + + e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke. + The distance betwixt e and e is three feet. + + f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage. + + g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two + palms and a half broad. + + h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base + one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet. + + i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the + base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is + introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points + together rather than to separate them. + +It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned +downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is +laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done +alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well +as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep +trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to +m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share +from going too far downward. + +No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over +with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where +rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described. + +It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six +plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons +are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or +ordinary). + +In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_) +_Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a +solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the +Linn[ae]an herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.) + +My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East +Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a +horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or +would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I +arrived, and turned my steps backward. + +The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the +Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their +dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, +their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt +into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon +their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high +collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their +coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife, +though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied +round the knees. + +At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it +was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which +formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in +articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different +appearance from the Lapland females. + +East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. +The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that +they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the +boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water +to pour over the reindeer moss. + +The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season +of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground. + +The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, had already sprung up, and +made the fields quite green. + +I returned back to Tornea in the evening. + + +_August 13._ + +This being a fast day, I heard a sermon in the Finnish tongue, preached +at the church of Tornea. A lawful wife was churched, after her lying-in; +which ceremony was performed in the choir, near the elevated part. The +women in general had either naturally white hair, or hair that had once +been brown, now turned grey. Very few had it red. They wear their hair +rather straight. + +The physiognomy of both men and women is phlegmatic and stupid; the body +clumsy, the complexion bad, and the features destitute of all delicacy +of form or expression. + +The boundary between West Bothnia and East Bothnia is not formed by the +river of Kimi, but by another smaller stream, not far distant, on the +left. + +They catch _Sijk_ (_Salmo Lavaretus_) in a curious manner at this place. +These fish, like the common salmon, swim against the stream, and for +that reason are to be caught only near large falls of the river, which +they are unable to ascend. The fisherman, being furnished with a net +fixed at the end of a long pole, strips himself naked up to the waist, +and walks into the middle of the strongest cascade. To prevent accidents +from the force of the water, a rope is often tied round his waist, the +other end of which is held fast by a friend on shore. Thus they catch +the fish below the fall. + +Seals are taken by various means, being either shot with fire-arms, or +caught in a net. The latter, three or four fathoms high, is made of +hempen cord, as thick as a goose-quill, each mesh being two spans wide. +This net is kept upright in the water by means of oblong floats of wood, +and has no stones at the bottom. Four or five such nets are frequently +tied to the ends of each other, and a large stone is attached to the +last, bound about with willow or osier, which serves to keep the nets +steady. These are set in places where the seals are known to hide +themselves, for those animals do the fishermen great damage, not only by +devouring fish, but by tearing the fishing nets, from the destruction of +which the haunts of the seals are discovered. When a seal comes in the +way of the above-described nets, he either thrusts his head between the +meshes, getting more and more entangled the more he pushes forward, or, +as often happens, he is caught by the foot. + +On a sand-hill near the church at Tornea, grew, in great abundance, +_Gramen spic[^a] tritice[^a] maritimum_, (_Triticum radice repente_, _foliis +rigidis_; _Fl. Lapp. n._ 34, which, in the second edition of that work, +p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my intelligent friend Dr. Afzelius, +referred to _Elymus arenarius_, and what Linn[ae]us here says, confirms +this determination.) Its blue leaves looked quite different from all +others, and very handsome. I picked some seeds from the spikes, which +were as large as grains of rye. Hence I was induced to consider whether +this plant might not serve as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such +dry and blowing sands, provided the proper method of managing it could +be discovered, which surely would not be a very difficult task. The +advantage of this would be that, by such means, many sandy tracts, where +nothing else will grow, might be turned to advantage; and the perennial +roots, which no other corn has, would of course save the trouble of +sowing it annually. Perhaps even these roots themselves might, in hard +times, serve for food. + +The tall Finlander Daniel Cajanus, at Stockholm, born in this part of +East Bothland, was the son of a clergyman. At his birth he was no bigger +than the generality of children, and his health was very indifferent, +particularly with regard to his chest, till the age of twelve or fifteen +years. + +I was informed that the inhabitants of this neighbourhood often hear +thunder in the alps during winter. + +In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by a south wind, and mild weather +comes from the north, because of the sea. + +The Laplanders consult several natural objects by way of compass as they +travel. + +1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more copious branches on their southern +side than towards the north. + +2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which bear grass, the northern +whortle-berries. + +3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on the north side, smooth on the +opposite part. + +4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on the north side, with the black +_Usnea_, or filamentous _Lichen_ (_L. jubatus_). + +By such marks as these they are able to find their way through pathless +forests. Have we any guides so certain? + +When these people kill any wild reindeer with fire-arms in summer, they +lodge the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up as they want it for +provision. + +I observed a curious kind of lime-stone burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other +places round the neighbouring sea-coast. + + +_August 14._ + +A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjortot has been assayed by the +Mineral Board, and found to contain forty _per cent._ lead, but only +three or four of silver. + + +_August 15._ + +Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up the Fresh-water Sponge, _Spongia +lacustris_ of Newton, (_S. lacustris_; _Syst. Nat. v._ 1. 1299. Linn[ae]us +here refers to Mr. Newton, the friend of Ray, who found the Sponge in +question in the Norwich river, where it still exists. It is however +denominated in Ray's _Synopsis_, _S. ramosa fluviatilis_, not +_lacustris_. Linn[ae]us quoted from memory.) + + +_August 16._ + +In dissecting the flower of _Artemisia_ (_vulgaris_), I was struck with +its very curious conformation. (This alludes to the want of a limb to +the corolla of the female or marginal florets. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. +244.) + + +_August 17._ + +I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The wind proved contrary. The +islands abounded with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of _Rubus +saxatilis_. On one called Korsholm I met with a sort of _Behen_. Can it +be the same with that which grows in cornfields? Their different parts +are tolerably alike. This grew among the pebbles of the beach. Its calyx +is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem erect. Fruit of one cell. In other +respects it resembles _Behen_. (This was _Cucubalus_ (_Behen_) variety +the third, or [gamma], _Fl. Lapp. n._ 180. _ed._ 2. 149. _Silene +maritima_, _Fl. Brit._ 468. _Engl. Bot. t._ 957. We have found it remain +for many years unchanged in a garden, propagating itself by seed, though +Linn[ae]us reports that the third year he could not distinguish his from +our common _Silene inflata_, his _Cucubalus Behen_.) + + +[OE]CONOMICAL REMARKS CONCERNING THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA. + +The soil is various, sometimes clay, sometimes sand. The corn-fields are +sown every other year, and lie fallow the intermediate seasons, half of +each field lying fallow, while the other half is cultivated. The former +is ploughed during the whole summer, to prevent the growth of grass or +weeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is sown in these open fields only. +Rye is cultivated on land that has recently been cleared of its wood by +burning, but not in any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are sown +together in one crop, and not, as usual in other places, Turnips one +year and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved to treat visitors. Barley +bread is of three different qualities; 1. made of the unmixed barley; 2. +of a mixture of barley and chaff; 3. of chaff without any addition, +except now and then a handfull or two of barley. This last is their +_Spis-br[:o]d_, or household-bread. + +The plough is of the same construction as that used in Westbothland. + +Almost every person, except such as are very poor, catches as many of +the small kind of Herrings, called _Str[oe]mming_ (_Clupea Harengus_ +[beta], _Membras_ of old authors,) as are necessary for the support of +his family. Those who are not otherwise employed in spring and autumn, +catch them for sale afterwards to such as have not time to take any for +themselves. These fish begin to spawn about the 18th of May, and +continue till about the 16th of June. After the latter period they go +into the small inlets among the rocks, and are taken by means of large +nets till St. Peter's day, June 29th. This is called the large +Str[oe]mming fishery. From St. Peter's day till St. Bartholomew's (Aug. +24th), or even later, they are taken likewise with nets in their usual +haunts. These fish are found with milt as well as roe throughout the +summer. + +One barrel of sour Str[oe]mming is as valuable as two of the salted +sort, the former being greatly preferred. A peasant whose family +consists of a dozen people, takes half a barrel of salt Str[oe]mming for +his whole supply, and this is used to make a kind of soup when boiled +with turnips; but he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour +Str[oe]mming, which is eaten without any preparation, like smoked and +salted meat. If the director of the family is a good [oe]conomist, he +will never allow it to be boiled or roasted. They let the fish which is +to make sour Str[oe]mming lie for three or four hours only before they +take out the entrails, after which it is washed in a small coarse sieve, +till most of the blood is removed. It is then salted, in the proportion +of thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each barrel of fish. The fish +destined to make salt Str[oe]mming must be much more carefully washed, +for if the least drop of blood remains it will turn sour. Every barrel +of this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt which is disposed in +layers, alternately with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and salt are +rubbed together with the hands, till a sort of scum rises on the top. + +Another way of preparing salt Str[oe]mming is to make so strong a brine +that the entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not sink. They put in +only so many of the fish as can readily be stirred about in the brine. +If the tub be so full that the brine does not entirely cover the +Str[oe]mming, more is added, and the whole is suffered to remain for +some days. The fish is afterwards gutted in the following manner. A +person puts ten or twelve of them on the thumb of his left hand, in such +a manner that the back of each fish is turned towards the palm. He then +very dexterously loosens the gills with his right hand, pinching out the +gills and intestines at once; which is performed with great quickness. +The fish are then put into a rope basket, and salted as before. When +they have remained thus for a couple of days, they are put into other +baskets, in order that the brine may drain away, and finally are packed +up in new kegs for keeping, without any further salting. A hole is bored +in each tub, just above the lowermost hoop, to draw off the brine, which +is always collecting from the fish, and if permitted to remain, will +cause the whole to turn sour; but the same method is not practised for +the sour Str[oe]mming. This last is in its greatest perfection about St. +James's day (July 25th). + +These people have three meals a day in summer, besides breakfast, and +the sour Str[oe]mming always makes a part of their dinner, as well as of +the preceding refreshment. The fish, after being repeatedly squeezed, is +laid between two slices of bread, and so eaten. After it they take some +sour preparation of milk, without cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit +of cheese, or bread and butter; but they never eat meat after the sour +Str[oe]mming. Their vegetable food consists of cabbage, pease, or +turnips, the first being generally eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten +once a week, except when the cabbage is deficient, and then they supply +its place. Turnips and salt Str[oe]mming are generally eaten in a +morning, in the following manner. When the turnips are boiled nearly +enough, the fish is put to them, but not before, lest it should be +broken to pieces. To this some flour is added; and they drink sour milk +after it. Their supper always consists of flummery, made of barley-meal. +Before they first go out in a morning they eat either bread and butter, +or bread and cheese, but they prefer the former. The mixed bread (made +of corn and chaff) is their ordinary portion; good bread, made entirely +of corn, they seldom or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or for +very extraordinary occasions. Their mixed or household bread, being +baked in cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying four or five such +cakes together upon each other. They are never unprovided with ale in +their cellars, to treat visitors, though their ordinary drink is table +beer. In summer time they always drink _Syra_, (see vol. i. p. 243.) + +The peasants themselves eat but very little of their own mutton, and +chiefly the shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell; scarcely any is +kept in the house but the above parts, with the marrow-bones, which +they break to get at the marrow. The heads and feet of sheep, goats, and +hogs, are salted and dried, being, when wanted, boiled with pease, and +not ill-tasted. The legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often boiled +fresh; the fat which floats on the top being collected and preserved in +a horn or pot, as very useful to grease small ropes, and wheels. The +legs and feet thus boiled are afterwards thrown away, not eaten. The +head and feet of a calf are usually pickled. + +For fire-wood these people use birch-wood. They burn no candles in their +houses. They go to smoke themselves with the Finlanders in their huts. + +The hay is mown here in the same manner as in Upland, and the corn is +managed in the same way as in Smoland. When the season is dry, they +prefer drying the corn in heaps in the open air, as before described; +but in wet weather they have recourse to sheds. The hay is spread out +till dry, and afterwards carried, without being made into cocks. + +They raise as many hops as are wanted for each family, and have perhaps +a few pounds over, for sale. + +Their pales are high, made of pine-wood, and placed sloping. + +The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs made of alder wood, by which +they obtain a great proportion of cream, even two fingers' thick. This +cream is stirred up with the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for +making cheese. Another mode is with butter-milk, to which they add a +sixth part of fresh milk, that has stood one day and been skimmed. This +mixture, being first warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese thus made is +preferred to the former, and often eaten in preference to butter. + +Between Midsummer and St. James's day (July 25th), the whey is +collected, after the cheese is made; which, after boiling for some +hours, is set by to cool. When cold, it is barrelled up for winter use. +Poor people and old women beg or buy it, a small bottle-full at a time. +To one pot of sour milk they add a fourth part of _Syra_; and these +together have the taste of what they term _Filbunke_, which is sour milk +with the cream on, just beginning to ferment, and of which they make +_Servet-mj[:o]lk_; (see p. 150.) + +Thick milk (perhaps _Mesosm[:o]r_, see vol. i. p. 243,) is often kept in +barrels till winter, as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both serve +for winter provision. + +_Syra_ is so very sour as not to be eatable by itself. When they have no +milk to dilute it with, they add an equal quantity of water to the +_Syra_, and mix the whole with flummery, which mixture they prefer to +small beer. + +Butter is now and then made of goat's milk; but it is very strong, and +quite as white as that made of the milk of the rein-deer. + + +_August 18._ + +On islands near the shore I saw a _Salix_ with leaves like the +cultivated olive. It is a shrub three feet high, but growing in a +spreading manner. Stem grey, with roundish dusky solitary buds, of a +very large size, in proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually larger +(upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, bluntish, on scarcely perceptible +footstalks, furnished with an obtuse longitudinal rib beneath, but no +veins. Their upper surface is green, sprinkled all over with minute +white dots; very slightly channelled, and paler, along the nerve. (This +appears to have been _S. rosmarinifolia_.) + + +_August 19._ + +At the fair of Calix I obtained some information concerning the commerce +of this country, which is very different from that of almost every place +in the world besides, insomuch that I am unable to determine which party +makes his market of the other. The townsman thinks it is himself who +cheats the peasant, but I verily believe he is the party who is cheated. + +1. The general plan of traffic here is bartering one article for +another. + +2. The merchant generally carries his goods home to the peasant's +residence in the country, at whatever distance it may be, or else +conveys them to the fair, from whence the purchaser is to fetch them. + +3. When a townsman sets up trade as a merchant, his principal aim is to +get as many country-people to connect themselves with him as possible, +who are to supply him with their produce. These are termed +_Gield-bonder_, or creditors. + +4. The advantage the peasants have in thus confiding to the merchant the +whole of their goods, is, that the latter pays their taxes for them to +the collector, which must be done either in ready money, or bills of +exchange. + +5. When the merchant receives the goods from the countryman, no price is +fixed upon them between the parties; but when the former returns from +Stockholm, he sets down in his accompt-book nearly the sum for which he +has disposed of the articles there. In this the peasant trusts to the +honour of the merchant, and is paid accordingly. + +6. These prices are not communicated to the countryman immediately, nor +does he know the price of the salt, tobacco, corn, and other articles, +with which the merchant supplies him in return, till they settle +accompts; which does not take place till the end of every year, or +perhaps not so frequently. + +7. As long as a peasant keeps to one merchant, he is allowed credit, and +obtains advances of any money for which he may have occasion, even +although the goods delivered do not amount to the interest of the sum +lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000 dollars. But if he carries any of +his goods to another merchant, he must immediately pay what he owes to +his original correspondent, or suffer a sequestration of his property. + +8. The countryman never brings his own goods to market, unless he +happens to be going that way, in which case he usually takes them with +him, but otherwise it is expected the merchant should fetch them. + +9. When the towns of this part of the country were first built, each had +certain parishes appropriated to it, and these were called the trading +district of each town, in which no person who did not belong to the town +had a right to trade. These exclusive privileges were subsequently +annulled by royal authority, and free markets were established, where +strangers as well as the neighbouring inhabitants were equally permitted +to trade. This open trade has not however taken place at Calix, partly +because the peasants are situated at so great a distance from one +another, and partly because the merchants in the town conceive that such +a plan would ruin them, they being in that case obliged to buy and sell +for ready money. + +10. Here are no free markets, properly speaking, but only _Upb[:o]rdsmoten_ +(periodical meetings of the collectors of the revenues with the +peasants). At these times the townsmen and the peasants meet together at +the place of rendezvous, as at Calix every year on the 19th of August, +and at Tornea in the depth of winter. + +The inconveniences of the above plan of trade are, + +1. The merchant lays considerable sums fast, with which he might +otherwise extend his commerce. + +2. He has the trouble of carrying his goods to the house of the peasant, +where-ever it may be, up the country, and of bringing what he takes in +exchange from the place of rendezvous to his own house in town. + +3. The consequence of such a plan is, that many a merchant has +outstanding debts to the amount of 100,000 dollars, the greater part of +which he may never get paid. + +The inconveniences to the countryman are, + +1. He runs in debt more than he can ever pay. + +2. The merchant has the advantage of fixing what price he chooses on his +goods. + +3. He is not allowed to take any measures for his own profit. + + * * * * * + +The collar of the shirts, worn by the inhabitants of Finland and East +Bothland in this neighbourhood, resembles ours, their sleeves being more +like those of a woman's shift. + +Young women here commonly wear the bosom open, and have nothing over +their shift, which is gathered round the waist like a petticoat. + +The country of East Bothland is chiefly inhabited about the sea-coast, +and on the banks of rivers. + +An Aurora borealis was seen in the night of the 18th of August, and had +been visible for a week past, so early does it begin here. + +The rowers of the boat in which I pursued my progress had blisters on +their hands caused by pulling at the oars. Their specific was the ladle +with which they had just been stirring the pot where fish was boiling. +This they applied, hot as it was, to the part affected, and the blisters +disappeared. + +What is here called _Taim_ is a sort of salmon, two spans in length at +most, the tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked, but otherwise like +the common kind. (This is probably the _Salmo salar_ in a young state; +and may perhaps be the _Laxunge_, or _Salmo minor_, _vulgari similis_, +Artedi Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica_, ed. 2. 122, +though Linn[ae]us has no allusion there to the _Taim_.) + +As soon as the corn is carried from the field, it is usual to thrash it +slightly, that whatever is loose may come away, and not be lost in the +barn, as also that the coarser part may be separated from the finer. + +The flail is about a yard long, and rather thick. + +The roofs in this part of the country are made of the bark of +birch-trees, not covered over with any turf, but held fast by round +poles, as thick as one's arm, whose upper extremities, alternately +longer and shorter, reach to the ridge, and being bored through, are +fastened to it, in such a manner that their ends project about a span +each way beyond the ridge, crossing each other. Being thicker at their +lower ends, they lie almost close together. Within this there is often a +false roof, like a cieling, covered over with birch-bark and earth; but +this is only when the house is wished to be very warm. + +At the residence of the Governor of the Province at Calix, I saw three +swans, which, having been taken when young, were as tame as domestic +geese, to which these birds are so much alike in every respect, that I +can have no doubt of their belonging to one genus. Their bill is flat, +and black at the extremity, as well as the margins, convex and somewhat +angular in the middle, so far at least that the swelling part terminates +in an angle. The middle is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are +situated; the base flat or quadrangular, with two sinuses pointing +upwards, and pale-coloured. The margin is toothed just like the _Concha +Veneris_ (_Cypr[ae]a_). + +A carriage called _Stotting_ is used here, for bringing home wood for +fuel in winter, over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-wood, and +resembles a sledge. + +The length of this machine from a to b is three feet and a half, the +breadth of each beam four inches and a half; their thickness two inches, +except in the middle, at d, where it is three inches and a half, though +in all the other parts of equal dimensions. The transverse bar, c, is +one foot and a half long, three inches and a half broad, and is elevated +four inches above the longitudinal pieces. e, e, are two slender +triangular pieces, two feet in length, and two inches in thickness. f, +f, are about one palm and a half each in length and breadth. h is curved +upwards about two palms and a half out of the straight line. g is two +feet long between the main beams, three inches and a half broad, but +scarcely one in thickness. + +[Illustration] + +The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from the common ones in being +broader, and in the elevation or thickness of each at d. The transverse +beam c, on which the load is laid, is bored through at each end, to +receive the supporting pieces. The slender bars e, e, which may be +termed clavicles, are broadest in the fore part, where they also are +bored through, and fastened with pegs, serving to give stability to the +cross beam c. Two of these carriages are tied together, one behind the +other, through the hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i, is made of +birchen twigs. + +At Calix I found the _Hippuris_ (_vulgaris_) with forked branches; +_Pentaphylloides facie fragari[ae]_, (_Potentilla rupestris_?); and _Eruca +foliis sinapeos_. (What this was does not appear.) + +I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Calix and Tornea. + +[Illustration] + +The scythe which serves at Cronby in East Bothland, for mowing barley, +is made exactly like the common one of the Finlanders, with the foremost +handle underneath, but, that nothing may be wasted or lost, the machine +b c is fixed to the scythe, b being stuck into the hole at a, and +fastened with a pin through it at the other side. A cord is tied from +the other end c to the handle d, before the scythe is used. The lower, +or shortest, bar of this appendage scarcely extends beyond the extremity +of the scythe at f. Its position is regulated by a cord, according to +the inclination of the blade f g. + +The length of the main handle of the scythe, e f, is two ells. + + +_August 31._ + +I collected and described various species of _Fungi_. + +(Here follow descriptions or characters of several species of +_Agaricus_, _Boletus_ and _Hydnum_, given more correctly in the _Flora +Lapponica_.) + + +_September 3._ + +I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgomaster Geyer Svanberg, who was +born the preceding night, or rather between one and two in the morning. +He was named Geyer. + +Mr. Svanberg told me the (_Cotyledon_) _Umbilicus Veneris_ grew on a hill +called _Karvick_, near Wallivari to the north. (This probably was not +confirmed, as the plant does not occur in _Flo. Suecica_.) + + +_September 4._ + +I went to Biorknas, in order to be instructed in the art of assaying. + + +_September 9._ + +I examined the fish called in West Bothland _Natting_, (_Petromyzon +fluviatilis._) Its upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling two teeth. +The lower has seven small teeth, of which the two outermost are +largest. Mouth in the under side of the head, gaping, oval, rather +compressed. There are seven openings in a row behind the eyes, gradually +larger as they recede from thence. The fins have no visible rays, but +merely streaks, yet they are not adipose, or fat, fins. There is a +prominent orifice on the top of the head. The _pericardium_ is +cartilaginous. The fish is a span long. Its hind fin triangular. + +These (lampreys) are caught at this time of the year, when the nights +grow dark, in hollow timbers of a conical shape, resembling the wicker +baskets used for catching eels. The entrance is made smooth and even. +These timbers are laid, at the depth of two ells, in the river, and kept +down with stones, the opening being turned to meet the current. + +Some such traps are made of willow-twigs not bigger than goose-quills, +platted close together into the same shape, and are two ells in length. + +I was told that the Laplanders are accustomed to preserve blood of the +reindeer in rennet-bags through the winter till spring, when they boil +it with water, and drink it. + +Tar is obtained in the following manner. A cavity, of an inversely +conical shape, is dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn timbers, nine +ells in length each, so as to form a sort of funnel. This again is lined +with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the tar draining away into the +ground between the timbers. At the bottom is another funnel or vessel of +wood to receive the tar, which runs from thence into a trough, closed on +all sides, except a hole where the point of the said funnel is inserted, +and another at the extremity, closed with a moveable plug, from which +the tar is received into vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut to +pieces, are placed upright in the large funnel above, so as to leave a +convexity over the bottom, and the whole being covered with turf is set +on fire, against the wind. Care is taken, by varying the admission of +air, to prevent its burning too fast, or unequally; and by this means +they procure both tar and charcoal. + + +_September 14._ + +I took my leave of Biorknas. The weather was cold and rainy. Such of the +forest trees as are of a deciduous nature had now assumed a pallid hue, +in consequence of the cold nights; but the evergreens, with their +needle-shaped leaves, standing among them, seemed to defy the cold, and +were rendered conspicuous by their dark-green colour. The high wind +scattered the withered leaves over my path. How useful are the usual +storms of autumn to disperse ripe seeds, and plant colonies far from the +parent trees! The hills appeared sandy; and such places as had been +burnt were now perfectly white with Reindeer Moss, (_Lichen +rangiferinus_,) which grew so close together, as hardly to leave any +room for the Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads like the +Iceland Moss, (_Lichen islandicus._) + +Some part of the road consisted of a reddish-brown earth, such as I had +observed in the early part of my journey near Um[oe]a. I was told that +it was excellent for red paint. At length I reached Zingis, and in the +evening arrived at Tornea, entirely wet through. + + +_September 15._ + +I observed how they manage their corn at this season. They have no barns +to lay it into, but it is placed between poles, all the ears directed to +one side, in stacks two or three ells long, and very high. If the corn +be not quite dry, it is first spread abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a +kiln, and thrashed on a floor. How liable must it be to take fire, and +how much must unavoidably be spilt in consequence of such management! + +I received 100 dollars, of copper-money, from the chief clergyman. + +I learned here that Tansy (_Tanacetum vulgare_) and Mugwort (_Artemisia +vulgaris_) are used to make a fomentation or bath, wonderfully useful +for women in labour, who are accustomed to sit over the steam of these +herbs. I had observed the people at every house drying Tansy, but could +meet with nobody who would inform me to what use it was destined. + + +_September 16._ + +This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. There are six ferries between +these two places, over the river Kokama, which passes near Kimi. Two +miles from hence are the boundaries of East and West Bothnia. Lime-stone +attracted my notice all the way along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow +on the outside, whitish within. + + +_September 17._ + +I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. The weather was unfavourable, for +it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the evening at the +posthouse of J[:o]. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with +marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of +grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch, +intermixed with the _acifoli[ae]_ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these +last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as +to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become +pale, but the _Sorbus_ (Mountain ash, _Pyrus aucuparia_, _Fl. Brit._) +had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (_Pedicularis_) +_Sceptrum Carolinum_ appeared every where by the roadside. _Thalictrum_ +(_flavum_) and _Scutellaria_ (_galericulata_) were less frequent, but +Golden-rod (_Solidago Virga aurea_), _Trollius_ (_europ[ae]us_), (_Spir[ae]a_) +_Ulmaria_, and _Epilobium_ (_palustre_?) were plentiful, as was the +sweet _Milium_ (_effusum_), with the _Gramen ramosum_ (probably _Aira +c[ae]spitosa_.) + +The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke, +and the tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious +of warmth than careful of their eyesight. + +The same sort of plough is used here as at Kimi. + +I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand. +Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular +stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately +pinnate, (_Pisum maritimum_). + +Near J[:o] I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a +hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven +pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood +a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of +the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so +as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught, +should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any +further. + +The peasants of this upper part of East Bothnia, children of darkness in +their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing +to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are +white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in +front.--Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected +with a smell of sour fish, like sour Str[oe]mming, for they are kept +very dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish. + +Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea +Wheat-grass, (_Elymus arenarius._ See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. _n._ 34.) + + +_September 18._ + +I travelled from J[:o] to Ulaborg. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of +which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each +being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an +inverted position, upon them, the whole was sheltered from wet. The +barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that +the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round. +On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put, +as a kind of covering. + +[Illustration] + +The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already +described. + +(The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings, +at which Linn[ae]us was so indignant.) + +[Illustration] + +Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from the shore, +which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so +firm as to serve for the construction of ovens. At one spot, where the +river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement, +which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of +iron. The stones in general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break +easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron. +Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest. + +A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the +rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five +fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or +six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of +the boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel being raised up, or +hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the +importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this +the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places. +Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished +with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the +highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against +stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may +go in safety. + +One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, (_Salmo Lavaretus_, or +Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a considerable +length, the meshes very small. There are loop-holes at the top, large +enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are +sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at +the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near +the sandy shore. + +[Illustration] + +Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the +strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net, +except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and +depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle +of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so +that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on +each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the +force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never +escape, but is taken out at leisure. + +[Illustration] + +Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of +the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a +small island, where there is a sawing-mill. + +In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made +to the life. He is actually buried here[14]. This church is one of the +longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. +The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as +large as Lund. + + +_September 19._ + +After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here +are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems +to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly +jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head +against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters +of the sketch.) + +[Illustration] + +I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Limingo, more spacious +than all the meadow-ground of Tornea and R[:o]dbeck together. (Tuneld says +in his Geography, that the meadows of Limingo, and cornfields of the +neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their +great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with +Horsetail (_Equisetum fluviatile_), and especially with Reed, _Arundo_ +(_Phragmites_), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a +forest. The Water Hemlock, _Cicutaria aquatica_, _Cicuta virosa_; (see +p. 136), was very plentiful by the road-side. This led me to inquire +whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the +affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any +advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar +particulars to what I had heard at Tornea. + +Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_) grew all the way by the road, as well as +_Lenticula_ (_Lemna_ or Duck-weed), and the _Lichenoides_ of which +powder is made was observable on the trees. (_Lichen prunastri_, said to +have been used for hair-powder.) + +The meadow of Limingo is two miles in length. The best part of the +land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned +cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat +impaired by tumps (of _Carex c[ae]spitosa_). If but a third part of it were +cultivated, according to the Scanian mode of husbandry, it would be of +more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh +might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was +feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss +(_Sphagnum palustre_), which would render it altogether unprofitable. + +About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of +them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use +more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these +cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by +several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (_Iris Pseud'acorus_) was +mixed with the hay. + +The milk-strainers are made of straw, and not very clean. + + +_September 20._ + +Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of +Tornea, standing on a peninsula by the sea. + +In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to +have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them, +whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to +intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or +perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the +derangement. + +About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in +labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called _Hittatran_, or Casual +Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such +seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among +the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are +consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, +except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought +to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in +such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing +on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For +after-pains they swallow, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood from the +umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every +subsequent one. + +Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to +catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the +bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one +of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be +attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not +more wonderful than many sympathies upon record. + +There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called _Muicu_. +Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says that he has seen at +this place a fish named _Muicu_, which is no other than the _Blikta_, +taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be +I know not, but I saw plainly that this _Muicu_ is the _Small Sijk_ +(_Salmo Albula_), such as is found in Smoland. + +The following figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The +share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is +four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends +of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them +from the shoulders of the animal, and supports them. + +[Illustration] + + +_September 21._ + +Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Gambla +Carleby. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at +Cronby. + +I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships +are able to load and unload close to the quay. + + +_September 22._ + +Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town of New Carleby, which is +nearly as big as Wexi[:o]. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers, +placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a +handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a +quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely +come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined +to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel. + +The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made +of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small +pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley. + +_Rotk[:a]l_ (_Brassica oleracea_ [kappa], Sp. Pl. 932, _Napo brassica_, or +Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given +with the liquor to the cattle. + +The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of +grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black +ribband in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the +whip slung at their back. + +[Illustration] + +To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several +projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) +which is rolled between their hands. + +In the evening of this day I arrived at Wasa. + + +_September 23._ + +I went to church at Wasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the +south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings. +This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the +governor. + +Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed +copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation +had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a +glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The +sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. I do not +indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems +to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit. + +The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and +Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linn[ae]us here +meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.) + +This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church. +They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad +coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down. + + +_September 24._ + +In my way from New Carleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I +had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before +seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The +latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a +girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is +kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding +forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure. + +[Illustration] + +The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The +soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it; the upper leathers +made of tanned seal-skin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A +representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.) + +_Hypericum_ (_perforatum_), _Scrophularia_ (_nodosa_), _Bidens_ +(_cernua_?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey. +The three species of _Ribes_ (_rubrum_, _alpinum_ and _nigrum_,) were in +prodigious abundance. + + +_September 25._ + +At sun-rise I took my departure from Wasa. The pines in the forest were +stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing +but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of +three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the +breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its +being ... (here is a word not to be decyphered). The trees are left +standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close +to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The +heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are +left to rot on the ground. + +Three miles below Wasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (_Solanum +Dulcamara_). In the town itself I had noticed (_Leonurus_) _Cardiaca_, +and Henbane (_Hyoscyamus niger_). Near the shore grew _Salix ole[ae]folia_ +with its berries, _(Hippopha[:e] rhamnoides_). It is known by the name of +_Finnb[ae]r_ or _Surb[ae]r_, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is +situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines +long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four +lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous +matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse, +attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this +cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a +longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries +bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather +too acid. + + +_September 26._ + +I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but before coming to that place, +noticed at Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly +been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was +so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of _Carex +c[ae]spitosa_) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded +almost over one another, and were overgrown by _Polytrichum_ +(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of +them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their +way to any food between the tumps. + +In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears. +These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree, +_Tilia europ[ae]a_,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when +stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net +is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set +up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to +the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on +all sides. + + +_September 27._ + +This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood +on a table, and its end being made so as to slide up and down, the wort +is easily poured out. + +Below the town of Christina, I first found the _Lathyrus vici[ae]formis_ +(_L. palustris_), and Water Cresses, (_Sisymbrium Nasturtium_); also +_Campanula persicifolia_ and (_Sedum_) _Telephium_. + + +_September 28._ + +I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from +the Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a +highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the +town of Umoea and Granoen. (See _v._ 1. 141.) + +Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix +f[oe]mina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_?) + +The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass +here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes +insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the +greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_ +here first re-appeared after my long absence. + +N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with +blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of +the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above +indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora +Suecica_, be suspected that Linn[ae]us had, in these two paragraphs, +written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.) + +The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful; +and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me +great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round +the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_, +and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipul[ae]_) and striated flowers, +(_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted +me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for +cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows +copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head. +The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_ +(probably _Scirpus maritimus_). + +The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so +near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was +frequently visible through the forests. + + +_September 29._ + +I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day. + +When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, +for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards +the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach. + +The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the +crows (_Corvus Cornix_), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds +seek the marshy country in the evening, before it comes on. + +Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them +in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion. + +On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so +hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the +people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, +were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that +of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat +stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half +naked. + +Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, +as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry +across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, +between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a +sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, +others reddish-purple. + +In the evening I arrived at the town of Abo, which is as large as +Orebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often +burnt down by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, +might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these +stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay +loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain +the heat. + + +_September 30._ + +The Finnish liquor called _Lura_ is prepared like other beer, except not +being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence +its purgative quality from the iron. + +Here I saw a flying squirrel (_Sciurus volans_) from Tavasthia. + +The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees +and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four +prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal _Mink_. (This seems to +be _Viverra Lutreola_, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.) + +A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands +has taken notice. (See _v._ 1. 43, _note_.) It is older than that of +Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the +burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it +does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, +containing iron here and there, with small quantities of pyrites. The +mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city. + +The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together. + + +_October 5._ + +I departed from Abo. The corn-fields of Finland are beautiful, and +resemble those of East Gothland in their wide extent and level surface. + +There are regular ferry boats at stated times to take passengers to the +isle of Aland. + + +_October 6._ + +I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, where I was to go on board the +ferry-boat. The shore is a red rock. Passed over to the island of Aland, +the whole of which consists of the same kind of red rock. The palace of +Castelholm, at present falling fast into ruins, is built of this sort of +stone. + +The women use for dyeing a sort of rock _Lichenoides_, of a brown +stercoraceous colour, (perhaps _Lichen stygius_, or _omphalodes_,) which +they boil in water with alum. But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed +without alum. Some add a little Arnotto (_Bixa Orelana_). + +Shoes like short half-boots are worn here made of seal-skin. + + +_October 7._ + +In the evening of this day I passed over the plain of Aland. There were +abundance of Finn-berries (_Hippopha[:e] rhamnoides_) by the road. + + +_October 8._ + +I sailed over the sea of Aland. + + +_October 9._ + +Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been opened. About the church are +sundry sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the small surrounding hills, +as well as at Musangen, very fine and lofty plants of juniper +resembling cypresses, the branches erect and close, assuming a conical +or pyramidal figure. + + +_October 10._ + +About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived safe at Upsal. + +To the Maker and Preserver of all things be praise, honour and glory for +ever! + + * * * * * + +Some observations relative to the Seal, _Phoca vitulina_. + +There are two kinds (or varieties) of this animal. The _Gr[)a] Si[)a]l_ +(Grey Seal) is the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and slightly +clouded on the back. The _Wikare Si[)a]l_ (Creek Seal) is smaller, black +on the back, and very cloudy or wavy at the sides. Otherwise there is no +difference between them. + +The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, being covered with white hair +about an inch long, which it loses in four or five weeks, and becomes +quite black. At the same period it acquires more activity and shyness +than at first. The upper fore teeth are six, very small, resembling +those of a dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at their outer edge, as +in the dog, and furnished with a little notch at their base. Grinders +six. Whiskers remarkably large. There are two nipples a little below the +navel, which the female has a power of drawing in, so as to leave holes +large enough to admit the finger. She lets them out at pleasure to her +young one. + +The seal lies on its back while sleeping, either on the ice or on rocks. +They couple soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21; and the +grey seal brings forth its young in January, the creek seal in February. +The male runs round and round the female many times, with a yelping +noise, being very careful not to be observed. + +When the female has young, the male is very savage, and continually +attends to protect her. She brings forth but one at a birth, which at +first is dull and stupid, easily caught. If thrown into the water, +however, he exerts himself with some activity, and returns to the shore, +not having as yet acquired any shyness. But by the time all his first +coat of white hair is fallen off, he begins to be timid. The growth of +the young seals is very rapid. + +The seal, when out of the water, can hardly distinguish objects at half +a quarter of a mile's distance at the utmost. But in foggy and dull +weather he sees better than in sunshine. He never remains in the water +during moon-light nights. His hearing is acute though he has no external +ears, and his scent is also very quick. He can remain under water for +nearly half a quarter of an hour; but by that time he must, at the peril +of his life, come to the surface to breathe, which he often does within +a fathom of the shore, and he afterwards spouts out water. + +Nets for catching seals are set right out into the sea, from some +promontory, to the distance of twenty fathoms. These are examined every +morning, to see what is caught. They are chiefly set from St. +Bartholomew (August 24), when the moon is in her wane, till over St. +Matthew's day, September 21. + +Grey seals are hunted in winter till Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, +often in great numbers, close to a hole which they have made in it. When +they come out of the water by this opening upon the surface of the ice, +the water they bring with them freezes about its margin, so that in time +the edges become elevated, and it looks like a well. If it should freeze +over, they travel to the south-west, till they can get at water, always +proceeding straight forward, even though they meet with mountains in +their way; and they return in the same direct line back again. The +hunters go with large poles, carefully approaching the creek seal till +they get near enough to fire at him before he is aware. The grey seal +is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon. + +The seals are able to penetrate through the ice from beneath, lying on +their backs under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot make their way +into it from above. + +END OF THE TOUR. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o I. + + + + +A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, + + Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in the Year 1732, at the + Expense of the Royal Academy (of Upsal); by CHARLES LINN[AE]US, Student + of Physic and of Natural History, as drawn up by Himself to lay + before the said Academy. + + +The Royal Academy of Sciences having, last Spring, permitted my humble +memorial to be laid before them, respecting the project of a journey to +Lapland, with a view to the improvement of natural history, and having +honoured the same with their approbation, appointing me to undertake +the expedition. I feel it my duty, after having accomplished my journey, +most respectfully to present to the Academy a narrative thereof. + +For the sake of brevity and clearness I shall divide my subject into +three parts. + +1st, A journal of my tour. + +2d, The expenses incurred. + +3d, The advantages likely to accrue. + + + + +I. THE JOURNAL. + + +_May 12, 1732._ + +Having received my instructions from the Royal Academy of Sciences, with +a passport from the Government, and having prepared every thing +necessary for my journey, I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, from +this place (Upsal), carrying with me nothing but what was absolutely +necessary, in order that I might not be detained or interrupted, in case +of not being able always to procure a horse, but might occasionally +pursue my way on foot. As the summer seemed to be fast advancing, I +thought it not advisable to lose time by the way, nor to stray far from +the road, in the early part of the tour, but only to observe attentively +what readily presented itself, that I might reach Lapland with all +possible dispatch. + + +_May 13._ + +By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, where I was obliged to stay all +that day, for it was evening before I received from the governor of the +province (of Gestrickland) the requisite passport, which was accompanied +by orders to all the public officers in his district to give me all +requisite assistance to penetrate, if possible, into Asila Lapmark. + + +_May 14._ + +Owing to the above delay, and my attending morning service the next day +at Gefle church, I could not quit that place till one o'clock. +Proceeding without stopping to Hudwickswald, I there merely spoke a few +words to Mr. Broman the clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby Knylen, +the highest mountain in Medelpad, from whence I went to Sundswall, and +further. In my way I examined a cave formed by nature in a very hard +rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for thieves and highwaymen. + +I was so unfortunate, in my journey through Medelpad, as not to meet +with a single horse that did not tumble with me several times, in +consequence of which I was at one time so severely hurt as to be +scarcely able to remount. Having already collected together a number of +stones and minerals, which were no less burthensome than unnecessary to +carry along with me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I left these +incumbrances. I did not, however, stay there above two hours. + + +_May 20._ + +At length I reached the famous mountain of Skula in Angermanland, at the +very top of which is a large grotto, so neatly formed by nature that +art could scarcely have excelled it. This grotto was represented to me +as quite inaccessible, and it was said that not more than two or three +persons had ever been there; nor was it without great difficulty that I +prevailed on two men to accompany me, every body deeming the project +impracticable. As we climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept forwards, +sometimes slid back again. Now we mounted a considerable way by catching +hold of branches and roots of trees, and then, meeting with steep +inaccessible rocks, were obliged to turn back. After following one of my +guides for about two hours, I thought the other seemed to make more +progress; which induced me to go after the latter. I was scarcely got +two ells out of my former path, than the man whose track I had left +loosened a large stone with his foot, which fell on the very spot I had +quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded by fire and smoke, +and should certainly, but for the protecting hand of Providence, have +been crushed to pieces. We reached the grotto at length, after much +labour and trouble, and descended the mountain with much greater +facility. Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which grew close to the +rocks, we slid down upon them, dragging them after us down the +precipices. + + +_May 23._ + +I at length, after twelve days journey, reached Umoea. + +It had originally been my design to go to Asila Lapmark, in order to +observe what plants are able to endure the very hard winters of that +region, but I was obliged to change my plan. The summer would not have +been long enough, nor my stock of money sufficient to enable me to reach +that most northern part of the country, where the severity of the +climate is augmented by the cold north wind and the vast snowy +mountains. I applied, therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of Umoea, +for a passport to the nearer parts of Lapland, which was immediately +granted. This gentleman showed the greatest readiness to befriend me, +and appeared to take much interest in the success of my undertaking. He +gave such orders as might cause the public officers in Lapland to lay no +obstacles in my way, but rather to assist me by every means in their +power. He himself gave me much curious information, and showed me his +own garden, that I might observe what plants would stand the winter +here: concluding by expressing, in the most flattering terms, his +approbation of my appointment. + + +_May 25._ + +The following morning I set out on my way towards Lapmark. Leaving the +highway, I came to one of the most unpleasant roads I ever travelled. It +was covered with stones, betwixt which were thick entangled roots of +trees, and among them were deep holes full of water. The whole ground +was a marsh, which the frost was at this time just about quitting. Large +pine-trees, that had been blown down in the course of the stormy winter, +frequently crossed my path; and the more flexible birches, weighed down +by the snow, interrupted my course on all sides. I frequently came to +such steep heathy places that my horse could scarcely climb or descend +them, and in the bottoms between them were marshy tracts, with rivulets +destitute of bridges, so that my beast slipped down several times; and +as I passed the streams, the water reached up to my saddle. I then +regretted, what I had in the former part of my journey so much detested, +travelling on the high-way on these stumbling horses, and would rather +have descended the steepest hill in Angermannia than have chosen the +present road, for at every step the horse took, I thought he would have +fallen. + +In the evening of + + +_May 28,_ + +however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven +miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having +reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night. + + +_May 29._ + +The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as +Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five +miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve. + + +_May 30._ + +Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the +minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to +wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me +to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had +made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might +meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming +unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast. +Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence +of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that +account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the +colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one +of the native Laplanders. + + +_May 31._ + +The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with +me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of +provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh +of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I +well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals +or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our +boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my +own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise. + + +_June 1._ + +Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander, +we left our boat on the shore of the river, and went in search of this +man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or +enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met, +however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other +resided. + +Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here +in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future +guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had +met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However, +about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of +me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and +fresh water. + +I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to +a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not +dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had +to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite destitute of +provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing +but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, +nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their +reindeer. + + +_June 2._ + +On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to +proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by +falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further, +which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After +walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a +mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our +knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we +often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in +vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a +little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former, +and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken +than to pass this place, especially as the elements were all adverse, +for it blowed and rained violently. + + +_June 3._ + +By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we +still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could +proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and +having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of +taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me +on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the +gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to +sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had +set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could +not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in +case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however, +he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair +hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely +think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this +woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou +poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest +thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger +here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to +go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish, +without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what +she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which +she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed +heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether, +and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This +woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and +that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke +of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have +undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now +not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path, +whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In +traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, +and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer +cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman +refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My +hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was +induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling +her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it +not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the +most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion, +and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the +course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth, +undertaken more than it was possible to perform. + +We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great +velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to +an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the +boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found +ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon +landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet +and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea +cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or +_Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_, +see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island +to the shore. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out +of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the +river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist, +who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to +Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the +8th of June arrived at Umoea. + + +_June 12._ + +Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived +after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as +the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the +principal clergyman of the place. + + +_June 19._ + +I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring +coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however +I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I +was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of +reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the +horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at +Tornea. + + +_June 25._ + +Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I +continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights, +having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are +excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which +are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of +their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the passengers are not +careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and +three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I +received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions +sufficient to last me for eight days. + + +_July 6._ + +After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended +_Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is +indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who +served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his +assistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on +these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I +willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant +for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part +of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted +less to assist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient +incumbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into +the bargain. + +On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here +were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger +and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor +any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to +shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the +mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the +Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young +along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering +influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in +the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun +never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by +climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could +see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the grass +and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all +nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these +vegetable rarities, while the time passed unperceived away, and my +interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles +to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any +rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded +therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes passing along their +precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and +for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening +of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was +at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception, +and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between. +Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight +hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the +milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for +my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in +his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to +have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a +mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon. + +After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I +steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea, +proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the +country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me +to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that +side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had +no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me, +accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy +crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the +cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer +skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more +favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence +the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very +delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding +its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest +trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps, +it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our +calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance. +At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so +stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings +than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and +beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the +tall grass reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild +fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps, +seemed to refresh me both in mind and body. + +Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the +house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a +boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the +celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find nobody +willing to venture near it. + +We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind +proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with +rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions, +zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied +every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr. +Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception. + +Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind +exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place +from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour +for that purpose. + +On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains, +with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in +perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a +stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small +distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so, +thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined. +Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a +considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a +second time, and I determined never to go there again without some +protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked +attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the +subject. + +On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was +employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and +exhaustion, the ground we had to pass over being so extremely steep as +well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had +sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves. + +From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were +described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the +course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps +was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and +how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst +evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were +enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes +rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very +circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This +fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment, +for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive +heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but +it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting +snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the +inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their +huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable +distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this +inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several +days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The +rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread, +and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of +costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to +return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the +course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow, +without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy +crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable +to assist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so +hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not +in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able +to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh +in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of +my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before. + +At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without +tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential +support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of +it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I +remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards +descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north +of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our +voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to +overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved +ourselves, and it being night, nobody heard our cries for assistance. + +The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner +of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea. + +Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from +thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I +entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I +found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles +back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town +of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district, +and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a +boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as +the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn, +and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to +see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick +passage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as +I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to +enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I +considered that in a new country there is always something new to be +seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford +but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination, +at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea +voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, +had long been waiting for a fair wind. + +I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and +Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina, +Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I +then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on +the 10th of October reached Upsal. + +The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 +English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined. + + Miles. + From Upsal to Umoea 60 + Umoea to Lycksele 12 + Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25 + From thence again to Umoea 37 + From Umoea to Pithoea 22 + Pithoea to Longoen 3 + Back again to Pithoea 3 + From thence to Lulea 5 + Lulea to Quickjock 33 + Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25 + From thence to the Norway coast 10 + Excursion by sea, and back again, 14 + From Norway to Caitum 40 + From Caitum to Quickjock 40 + Quickjock to Tornea 47 + Tornea to Kimi 5 + From hence to Maxaniemi 5 + Maxaniemi to Calix 9 + Calix to Kengis 32 + Kengis to Jonesvando 40 + Jonesvando to Tornea 26 + Tornea to Abo 100 + Abo to Upsal 40 + ----- + 633 + +(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the +advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this +"brief narrative," are not found in the manuscript.) + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o II. + + +The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a +view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was +translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly +communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany +the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It +is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication +I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linn[ae]us, to the +work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course +of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his +inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a +foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native +Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every +part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of +my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take +advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual +conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged +to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, +because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use." + +The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of +observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not +only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least +taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and +unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to +English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What +we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank +amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one +of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it. + + * * * * * + +Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which +describes a separate line of elevation. + +1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fj[:a]ll_), we first arrive at the +line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had +previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, +covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy +object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, +before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. +With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, +&c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of +_Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and +_Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ +(Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the +rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. +The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual +snow, and the mean temperature is about 3[deg.] of Celsius's thermometer +(37-1/2 of Fahrenheit). + +2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so +tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their +branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_, +_Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a +very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows +_Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the +berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. +_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), +soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when +the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, +and the mean temperature about 2,[deg.]5 of Celsius (36-1/2 of Fahrenheit.) A +little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual +snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which +live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for +instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips +grow large enough to be worth cultivating. + +3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its +short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem +prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light +green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of +vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be +entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, +where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is +2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much +wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, +_Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little +before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus +Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any +fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, +_Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the +reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. +Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, +_Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The +drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago +frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the +utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is +found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases. + +4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fj[:a]ll_ (Alps). Near +rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, +consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament +to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking +_Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper +bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about. +Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda +c[ae]rulea_ and _Trientalis europ[ae]a_. The more boggy ground is decorated +with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis +lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has +the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris +crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet +of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no +higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Cham[ae]morus_ still ripen here, +but not at a greater degree of elevation. + +5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not +above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is +of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier +situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed +with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea +lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant +spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, +produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus +leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places +_Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are +observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of +elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large +as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary +of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The +Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for +their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean +temperature is about +1[deg.] of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit). + +6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. +The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as +_Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and +_hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed +to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana +tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the +yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no +reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas +octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of +perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow. + +7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the +ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are +here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at +the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, +and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some +few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy +brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, +quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga +stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and +_glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene +acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is ++0,[deg.]4 of Celsius, (32-3/4 of Fahrenheit). + +8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much +diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other +similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock +rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet +above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some +umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophor[ae]_), &c., still occur in the crevices of +perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of +perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the +mean temperature seems to be +1,[deg.]1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The +Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits +this elevated spot. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Abo, ii. 230. + _Acer platanoides_, ii. 227. + Aconite, yellow, i. 36. + _Aconitum lycoctonum_, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. 79, 123, 277. + Adam and Eve, i. 28. + _Adoxa moschatellina_, i. 37. + _Agaricus_, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. 158. + _Agrostis arundinacea_, ii. 228. + ---- _rubra_, ii. 91. + Agues, i. 29, 180. + _Aira alpina_, ii. 279. + Aland, ii. 233. + _Alca Torda_, i. 64, 65. + Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277. + _Alnus incana_, ii. 277. + _Alopecurus geniculatus_, ii. 92. + Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. 272. + _Amanita_, ii. 158. + Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50-58. + _Anas arctica_, i. 65. + _Andromeda c[ae]rulea_, i. 272. ii. 278. + ---- _hypnoides_, i. 320. ii. 280. + ---- _polifolia_, i. 23, 188, 189. + ---- _tetragona_, ii. 28, 29, 280. + _Anemone Hepatica_, i. 11, 32. ii. 228. + ---- _ranunculoides_, i. 11. + ---- _vernalis_, i. 15. + _Angelica Archangelica_, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 171, 316. ii. 76. + Angermanland, i. 48. + Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83. + _Anthericum calyculatum_, i. 257. + _Apis terrestris_, i. 159. + Apple-trees, i. 61. + _Arabis thaliana_, i. 33. + _Aranea palustris_, } + ---- _riparia_, } i. 258. + _Arbutus alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _Uva ursi_, i. 7, 23, 250. + _Ardea cinerea_, ii. 255. + _Arena Glarea_, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166. + ---- _mobilis_, i. 16. + _Artemisia vulgaris_, ii. 201. + _Arum_, i. 200. + _Arundo Calamagrostis_, ii. 90. + ---- _Phragmites_, ii. 275. + Ash, i. 68. + Aspen, i. 77, 179. + _Aspidium Filix-f[oe]mina_, ii. 227. + _Asplenium Trichomanes_, i. 55. + _Astragalus alpinus_, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. 2. + ---- _leontinus_, ii. 279. + ---- _montanus_, ii. 279. + _Azalea lapponica_, i. 299. ii. 279. + ---- _procumbens_, i. 285. ii. 279. + + + B. + + _Bannisteria._ See _Diapensia_. + Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77. + ---- pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + ---- willow used for tanning, i. 80. + ---- birch used for tanning, i. 249. + Barley, i. 57, 67, 73. + _Bartramia fontana_, i. 181-184. + ---- _pomiformis_, i. 13, 38. + _Bartsia alpina_, ii. 119. + Bears, ii. 215, 275. + Beaver, i. 88-91. + Beech, i. 68. + _Betula alba_, i. 48. + ---- _incana_, i. 48. ii. 277. + ---- _nana_, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50, 278, 279. + _Bicornes_, i. 22. + Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208. + Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. 276. + ---- dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139. + Bird-traps, i. 179. + _Bixa Orelana_, ii. 233. + Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217. + Boat, Lapland, i. 98. + Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167. + _Boletus igniarius_, used as a pincushion, i. 85. + ---- _suaveolens_, employed as a perfume, i. 151. + Bothland, East, ii. 151-166, 201-232. + Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201. + Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. 147. + _Brassica oleracea_, ii. 219. + Bream, i. 27. + _Bryum bimum_, i. 185. + ---- _pomiforme_, i. 13. + Buck-bean, i. 86, 200. + Buck-wheat, i. 166. + Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282. + Burnet, i. 220. + Butter, i. 110. + _Byssus_, i. 84, 156. + ---- _cryptarum_, i. 47, 55. + ---- _flos aqu[ae]_, i. 4. + ---- _Jolithus_, i. 26. + ---- red, i. 26. + + + C. + + _Calla palustris_, i. 200, 245, 350. + _Callitriche autumnalis_, i. 62. + ---- _verna_, i. 62. + _Caltha palustris_, i. 5, 68. + _Cameraria_, i. 176. + _Campaniformes_, i. 10. + _Campanula persicifolia_, ii. 226. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, i. 20, 37. + ---- _uniflora_, ii. 280. + _Canis Vulpes_, i. 71. + Caper, Swedish, i. 5. + _Carex_, i. 5, 167. + ---- _c[ae]spitosa_, ii. 225. + ---- _globularis_, ii. 275. + ---- _panicea_, ii. 98. + ---- _sylvatica_, i. 276. ii. 21, 46. + ---- _ustulata_, ii. 279. + Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. 215. + Cataract of Elf-Carleby, i. 12. + Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52. + Chaff, eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + _Cham[ae]daphne_, i. 188. + Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363. + _Charadrius Hiaticula_, i. 93, 323. + Charr, i. 128. ii. 277. + Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197. + Cherries, i. 62. + _Chrysomela graminis_, i. 48. + ---- _lapponica_, i. 77. + _Chrysosplenium alternifolium_, i. 9. + Church tyranny, i. 157. + Church at Lulea, i. 239. + _Cicindela sylvatica_, i. 175. + _Cicuta virosa_, i. 246. ii. 136, 143. + Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62. + Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158. + Clay, i. 31, 73. + Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203. + Club-moss, i. 20. + _Coccinella trifasciata_, i. 179. + Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93. + _Colymbus arcticus_, i. 27, 176. ii. 98, 151. + ---- _auritus_, i. 118. + _Comarum palustre_, i. 158. + _Conferv[ae]_, i. 336. + _Convallaria bifolia_, i. 58. ii. 274. + Cookery, i. 248; + performed by the men, i. 132. + _Coralloides_, i. 8, 84. + _Corallorrhiza_, i. 223, 245. ii. 47. + Corals, petrified, i. 30. + _Cornus suecica_, i. 177, 189. + _Corvus Cornix_, ii. 229. + ---- _glandarius_, ii. 110. + ---- _infaustus_, ii. 109, 255. + _Cos molaris_, i. 30. + Costmary, i. 220. + Cotton-Rush, i. 68. + Cradles, different kinds of, i. 190. + Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. 26. + Cranberries, i. 208. + Cranes, i. 94. + Cross-bills, i. 70. + Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62. + _Cuculus canorus_, i. 23, 319. + _Culex pipiens_, i. 159. + ---- _pulicaris_, i. 238, 251. + ---- _reptans_, i. 209, 251. ii. 115. + _Cypr[ae]a_, ii. 191. + _Cyprinus Aphya_, i. 102. + ---- _Brama_, i. 27. + _Cypripedium Calceolus_, ii. 112. + + + D. + + _Daphne_, i. 23. + _Dermestes murinus_, i. 206. + _Diapensia lapponica_, i. 285. ii. 280. + _Dillenia_. See _Azalea_. + Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. 32-35. + ---- of cattle, i. 245. + Diver, black-throated, i. 27. + _Draba alpina_, ii. 280. + ---- _verna_, i. 5. + Dress, travelling, of Linn[ae]us, i. 1. + ---- of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326-335. ii. 10, 110, 144-150. + _Dryas octopetala_, ii. 280. + Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118. + Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170. + _Dytiscus natator_, i. 100. + + + E. + + East Bothland, ii. 151-166. 201-232. + Elf-Carleby, i. 15. + Elm, common, i. 22, 68. + _Elymus arenarius_, ii. 204. + _Emberiza Hortulanus_, i. 71. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 71. ii. 97, 282. + _Empetrum nigrum_, i. 138, 139, 152. ii. 26, 280. + _Empis borealis_, i. 87, 179. + _Ephemera_, i. 73, 177. + _Epilobium augustifolium_, ii. 87. + ---- _palustre_ [beta], i. 283. + _Equisetum hyemale_, i. 121. + _Erica vulgaris_, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. 119, 277. + _Erigeron uniflorum_, ii. 279. + _Eriophorum alpinum_, i, 177, 254. + ---- _polystachion_, i. 68. + ---- _vaginatum_, i. 68. + _Erysimum Barbarea_, i. 255, 267. [beta], i. 72. + + + F. + + Festivals, i. 114, 157. + Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29. + Fir, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202. + ---- spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202. + Fisheries, i. 128, 163. + Flax, i. 200. + Flesh-fly, i. 159. + Food of the Laplanders, i. 154. + Foxes, i. 71, 250. + Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79. + _Fringilla Montifringilla_, i. 23, 29. + Frogs, imagined to live in a woman's stomach, i. 111. + Frog-spittle, i. 214. + _Fucus_, i. 336. ii. 263. + _Fumaria bulbosa minima_, i. 37. + Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 12. + + + G. + + Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231. + Gad-fly, i. 215. + _Gadus virens_, i. 341. + Gale, sweet, i. 19. + _Galium boreale_, ii. 275. + _Gentiana nivalis_, ii. 280. + ---- _tenella_, ii. 280. + _Geranium sylvaticum_, i. 283. + Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. 241. + _Glires_, i. 89. + Glirr, i. 102. + Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238. + Goosander, i. 94-96. + Granite, i. 9, 30, 35. + Grayling, i. 61. + Grebe, little-eared, i. 118. + Grous, black, i. 23. + Grous, wood, i. 179. + Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. 242. + Grundell, Baron, i. 70. ii. 245. + _Gryllus domesticus_, i. 254. + Gulls, i. 75. + Gwiniad, small, i. 161. + _Gyrophor[ae]_, ii. 282. + + + H. + + Hair-moss, great, i. 171, 191. + Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74. + Hare, i. 89. + Harness, rein-deer, i. 104. + Harr, i. 61. + Hazle, i. 62, 68. + Heart's ease, i. 41. + Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 56. + _Hedera Helix_, i. 21. + Helsingland, i. 25. + _Hepatica_, i. 11. + _Hieracium Pilosella_, i. 5. + _Hippopha[:e] rhamnoides_, ii. 224, 233. + Hobgoblins, supposed to inhabit the mountains, i. 221. + Hops, i. 36, 62. + Horns of the reindeer, i. 135. + Horsetail, naked, i. 121. + Househould [oe]conomy of the Laplanders, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, + 340. ii. 5-18, 23-26, 47-50. + Humble-bee, i. 159. + _Humulus Lupulus_, ii. 122, 228. + Hunting the bear, ii. 83-85. + Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155. + _Hyoscyamus niger_, ii. 224. + _Hypnum parietinum_, i. 8. + + + I. + + Implements of husbandry, i. 65. + Insects at Bumoen, i. 200. + ---- Lulea, i. 233. + ---- Pithoea, i. 216. + ---- Umoen, i. 192-194. + _Iris Pseudacorus_, ii. 228. + Ivy, i. 21. + Itinerary of Linn[ae]us, ii. 270. + + + J. + + Jarf, i. 71. + _Juncellus aquaticus_, i. 122. + _Juncus campestris_, i. 5. + ---- _curvatus_, ii. 281. + ---- _trifidus_, i. 279. + ---- _triglumis_, ii. 112. + Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156. + _Jussiea._ See _Sibbaldia_. + + + K. + + Kettle, method of boiling, i. 198. + Kids, i. 10. + Kimi, ii. 146-151. + Korssraff, i. 71. + Kowall, i. 111. + + + L. + + Lady-bird, i. 179. + _Lapis molaris_, i. 30. + Lapland Alps, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to determine the height of, ii. 272. + Lapland minerals, ii. 35-37. + ---- Norwegian, i. 322-335. + Laplanders' amusements, ii. 50-58. + ---- character, i. 132. + ---- dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326-335. ii. 110, 144-150. + ---- diseases, ii. 32-35. + ---- food, i. 154. + ---- substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86. + ---- household [oe]conomy, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340, 341. ii. 5-18, + 23-26, 47-50. + ---- huts, i. 125-127, 155. + ---- marriages, ii. 67-76. + ---- shop, i. 119, 120. + ---- weapons, i. 137. + Lark, i. 6. + _Larus canus_, i. 75, 319. + _Lathyrus palustris_, ii. 226. + _Ledum palustre_, i. 23, 246. ii. 275. + _Leontodon Taraxacum_, i. 5. + _Leonurus Cardiaca_, ii. 224. + _Lepas Balanoides_, i. 336. + ---- _Balanus_, i. 336. + _Lernea asellina_, i. 341. + _Libellula forcipata_, i. 190. + ---- _Virgo_, i. 190. + _Lichen arcticus_, i. 31. + ---- _byssoides_, i. 84. + ---- _caninus_, i. 31. + ---- _cocciferus_, i. 84. + ---- _ericetorum_, i. 156. + ---- _islandicus_, i. 24. ii. 200. + ---- _jubatus_, ii. 171. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 4, 85. + ---- _omphalodes_, ii. 233. + ---- _rangiferinus_, i. 84, 161, 318. ii. 18, 88, 108, 128, 199, 277. + ---- _stygius_, ii. 233. + ---- _uncialis_, i. 82, 84. + ---- _velleus_, i. 213. + Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, 161. + _Ligusticum Levisticum_, i. 73. + Lime-tree, i. 68. + Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139. + _Linn[ae]a borealis_, i. 21, 37, 203, 229. + _Lithospermum arvense_, i. 5. + _Lonicera Xylosteum_, ii. 227. + _Loxia curvirostra_, i. 70. + _Ludus Helmontii_, i. 8. + Lulea, i. 228-255. + Lulean Lapland, i. 256-283. ii. 81-130. + Lumme, i. 27, 176. + _Lychnis alpina_, ii. 19. + ---- _apetala_, ii. 279. + ---- _dioica_, i. 33. + ---- _Viscaria_, ii. 19. + Lycksele Lapland, i. 96-194. + ---- parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. 242. + _Lycopodium alpinum_, } + ---- _clavatum_, } i. 20. + ---- _complanatum_, } + ---- _Selago_, } + _Lycopsis arvensis_, i. 253. + _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, ii. 275. + _Lythrum Salicaria_, ii. 164. + + + M. + + Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131. + Maple, i. 68. + Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii. 67-76. + Meal-berry, i. 250. + Medelpad, i. 35. + _Medusa aurita_, i. 338. + _Medusa capillata_, i. 336. + ---- _cruciata_, i. 338. + _Melampyrum pratense_, } i. 110, 111. + ---- _sylvaticum_, } + _Menyanthes trifoliata_, i. 86, 200, 352. + _Mergus Merganser_, i. 94-96. + _Mesomora_, i. 177, 189. + _Mica_, i. 26, 247. + Mice, i. 89. + _Michelia._ See _Azalea lapponica_. + Milk, i. 59, 242-244, 273, 317. + ---- preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. 181. + Minerals, ii. 35-37. + Mining, i. 195, 196. + Missne, i. 86. + Money-wort, i. 229. + _Montia fontana_, i. 176. + Mosses, their fructification, i. 181-186. + Motacilla flava, i. 71. + Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. 244. + _Mures_, i. 89. + _Mus Lemmus_, i. 102, 162, 303. + _Musca carnaria_, i. 159. + _Muscus lichenoides_, i. 213. + ---- _tectorius_, i. 85. + _Mustela Gulo_, i. 71. ii. 50, 279. + _Mya arenaria_, i. 237. + ---- _margaritifera_, ii. 105. + _Myosotis scorpioides_, i. 5. + _Myrica Gale_, i. 19, 208. + + + N. + + _Nardus stricta_, i. 236. + _Narthecium ossifragum_, i. 257. + Norway, i. 335-366. + Norwegian Lapland, i. 322-335. + _Nostoc_, i. 263. + _Nux vomica_, i. 112. + + + O. + + Oak, i. 68. + Ochre, i. 62, 63. + [OE]conomy of the Torneans, ii. 173-182. + _[OE]strus nasalis_, ii. 45. + ---- _Tarandi_, i. 293. ii. 2, 23. + _Oniscus aquaticus_, i. 206. + _Ophrys alpina_, ii. 279. + ---- _cordata_, ii. 109. + Orchis, palmated, i. 178. + Ore, silver, i. 246. + _Orobus vernus_, ii. 228. + Ortolans, i. 71. + Owls, i. 93, 204. + Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210. + _Oxalis Acetosella_, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + P. + + _Paris quadrifolia_, i. 138. + _Pedicularis_, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. 277. + ---- _flammea_, i. 296. ii. 280. + ---- _hirsuta_, ii. 280. + _Pedicularis lapponica_, ii. 278. + _Perca fluviatilis_, ii. 86. + Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364. + _Pes pelicani_, i. 336. + _Petromyzon fluviatilis_, ii. 196. + _Phaca alpina_, ii. 275. + _Phoca vitulina_, ii. 234. + _Phrygania bicaudata_, i. 74. + _Pica lapponum_, i. 175. + Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162. + Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140. + _Pinguicula_, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. 109. + ---- _villosa_, i. 255. + _Pinus Abies_, i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. 274, 275. + ---- _nodosa_, i. 214. + ---- _plicata_, i. 7. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 25, 49. ii. 60, 66, 157, 275, 276. + Pipsten, i. 30. + _Pisum maritimum_, ii. 203. + Pithoea, i. 194-228. ii. 256. + Plants at Calix, ii. 193, 195, 196. + ---- Flaskesele, i. 116, 117. + ---- Gr[:a]no, i. 174. + ---- J[:o], ii. 202. + ---- Jockmock, i. 265, 266. + ---- Kimi, ii. 147, 151-153. + ---- Kiomitis, i. 269-272. + ---- Koskesvari, i. 258-260. + ---- Limingo, ii. 212, 213. + ---- Lulea, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. 122, 125. + ---- Sastmola, ii. 227. + ---- Skargarden, i. 220, 221. + ---- Torfiolme, i. 345. + ---- Tornea, ii. 125, 131, 136-144, 169, 172. + ---- Umoea, i. 181-186. + ---- Upland, i. 325. + ---- Wallavari, i. 283-291, 293-303. + ---- Wasa, ii. 223. + ---- Zangis, ii. 128-130. + Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98-100. + Plants and fishes near Pithoea, i. 222-228. + Plovers, ringed, i. 93. + _Polygonum Fagopyrum_, i. 166. + ---- _viviparum_, i. 282. + _Polypodium_, i. 55. + _Polytrichum_, i. 85, 191. ii. 225. + ---- _commune_, i. 124, 171. + _Populus tremula_, i. 77, ii. 277. + _Potamogeton gramineum_, ii. 112. + ---- perfoliatum, ii. 92. + Potatoes, i. 62. + _Poterium Sanguisorba_, i. 220. + _Primula_, i. 5, 277. + _Prunus Padus_, ii. 277. + Ptarmigan, i. 35, 150. + _Pteris crispa_, ii. 278. + _Pyrol[ae]_, i. 17. + _Pyrus Aucuparia_, ii. 277. + + + Q. + + Quicksand, i. 63. + + + R. + + _Ranunculus acris_, i. 203. + ---- _aquatilis_, ii. 91. + ---- _glacialis_, ii. 281, 282. + ---- _lapponicus_, i. 156, 252. + ---- _nivalis_, ii. 281. + Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121. + Reindeer, i. 68, 79, 103-110, 113, 127, 135, 161, 280, 307-314. ii. 22, + 37-46, 107, 110. + ---- method of castrating, ii. 3. + _Ribes alpinum_, ii. 227. + ---- _rubrum_, i. 257. + _Rosa cinnamomea_, ii. 274. + Rocking children, various modes of, i. 190. + _Rubus arcticus_, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. 118, 274. + ---- _Cham[ae]morus_, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. 109, 279. + ---- _fruticosus_, ii. 118. + ---- _id[ae]us_, ii. 118. + ---- _saxatilis_, ii. 118, 228. + Ruffs and Reeves, i. 71. + _Rumex Acetosa_, i. 102, 153, 315, 366. + ---- digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. 281. + Rye, i. 56, 57, 67. + + + S. + + _Salix caprea_, i. 5. + ---- _glauca_, ii. 278. + ---- _hastata_, ii. 278. + ---- _Helix_, i. 17. + ---- _lanata_, i. 77. ii. 279. + ---- _Lapponum_, ii. 26. + _Salix myrsinites_, ii. 279. + ---- _pentandra_, ii. 275. + ---- _phylicifolia_, i. 242. + ---- _rosmarinifolia_, ii. 183. + Sallow-tree, i. 55. + _Salmo Albula_, i. 161. ii. 86, 89, 216. + ---- _alpinus_, i. 127, 305-307. ii. 277. + ---- _Lavaretus_, i. 160. ii. 37, 97, 167, 275. + ---- _Salar_, ii. 116, 189. + ---- _Thymallus_, i. 61. ii. 275. + Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. 117. + Sandpipers, i. 93. + _Satyrium viride_, i. 178. + _Saxifraga_, i. 10. ii. 280. + _Saxum fornacum_, i. 30. + _Scarab[ae]us_, i. 206. + _Sceptrum Carolinum_, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. 119, 277. + _Scheuchzeria palustris_, i. 257. + _Sch[oe]nus Mariscus_, i. 150. + _Scirpus c[ae]spitosus_, i. 122, 150. + ---- _maritimus_, ii. 228. + _Sciurus volans_, ii. 231. + ---- _vulgaris_, ii. 49. + _Scolopax Gallinago_, i. 19. + Seals, remarks on, ii. 234. + _Sedum Telephium_, ii. 226. + _Serratula alpina_, i. 259. + Shop, Laplander's, i. 119. + _Sibbaldia procumbens_, i. 284. + _Silene acaulis_, ii. 281. + _Sisymbrium Nasturtium_, ii. 226. + Skelleftea, i. 203. + Skula, mountain, ii. 242. + Sledge, i. 104. + _Solanum Dulcamara_, ii. 224. + _Solidago Virgaurea_, ii. 87. + _Sonchus alpinus_, ii. 60, 77-79, 277. + _Sorbus_, ii. 277. + _Spergula arvensis_, i. 353. + _Sphagnum_, i. 37, 139, 156, 165. + ---- _palustre_, ii. 109. + _Sphinx Filipendul[ae]_, i. 321. + Spiders, i. 23. + Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. 231. + Squirrels, i. 89, 176. + _Stellaria minima_, i. 238. + ---- _nemorum_, i. 279. + _Strix Bubo_, i. 39, 210-213. + ---- _Ulula_, i. 205. + Struthiopteris, ii. 277. + Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364. + Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244. + Swallows, i. 71. + _Swammerdamia_, i. 237. + Swans, i. 94. + + + T. + + Talc, i. 42. + _Talcum Ollaris_, i. 356. + _Tanacetum Balsamita_, i. 220. + _Tanacetum vulgare_, ii. 201. + Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. 120, 121. + _Taxus baccata_, i. 11. + Tents of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 7. + _Tetrao Lagopus_, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. 258. + ---- _Tetrix_, i. 23. + ---- _Urogallus_, i. 78, 177, 179. ii. 96. + _Thalictrum alpinum_, i. 277. + ---- _flavum_, i. 138. + _Thlaspi arvense_, i. 5. + _Tilia europ[ae]a_, ii. 225. + _Tipula juniperi_, i. 21. + ---- _rivosa_, i. 186. + Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's stomach, i. 112. + Tobacco, i. 62, 86. + _Tofieldia palustris_, i. 257, 265, 366. + Tordmule, i. 64. + _Tormentilla officinalis_, i. 155. + Tornea, ii. 130-146, 166-201. + ---- [oe]conomical remarks concerning the neighbourhood of, ii. 173-182. + Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180. + ---- salmon, i. 206. + Trefoil, water, i. 86. + _Tremella juniperina_, i. 175. + _Trientalis_, i. 282. ii. 278. + _Tringa hypoleucos,_ i. 117. + ---- _pugnax_, i. 71. + _Tring[ae]_, i. 93. + _Turdus iliacus_, i. 6, 23, 121, 176. + _Tussilago frigida_, ii. 277. + ---- _nivea_, ii. 275. + + + V. + + _Vaccinium Myrtillus_, i. 23, 25, 35, 49, 124, 208. ii. 275. + ---- _Oxycoccos_, i. 208. + ---- _uliginosum_, ii. 279. + ---- _Vitis Id[ae]a_, i. 23, 124, 137, 258. + _Veronica alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, ii. 275. + _Viburnum Opulus_, ii. 227. + _Vicia sylvatica_, ii. 228. + _Viola biflora_, i. 138, 279. ii. 278. + ---- _canina_, i. 42. + ---- _lactea_, i. 42. + ---- _lutea_, i. 41. + ---- _odorata_, i. 5. + ---- _palustris_, i. 20, 45. + ---- _tricolor_, i. 5, 41. + Violet, aquatic, i. 42. + ---- marsh, i. 20, 45. + ---- yellow, i. 138. + _Viverra Lutreola_, ii. 231. + + + U. + _Ulv[ae]_, i. 336. + Umoea, i. 69, 178. + Upland, i. 2. + Upsal, i. 3. ii. 234. + + + W. + + Wagtail, water, i. 62. + Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine the height of the + Lapland Alps, ii. 272. + Wallavari mountain, ii. 257. + Wasp, i. 159. + Weapons, i. 137. + Well, mineral, i. 241. + West Bothland, i. 67. + Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137. + Willows, i. 61, 68, 80, 138, 249. + Winter-green, i. 17. + Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + X. + + _Xyphias Gladius_, i. 335. + + + Y. + Yellow-hammer, i. 71. + Yew, i. 11. + +THE END. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Vol i. p 134, line 11, read _set in_. + +206, line 3 from the bottom, for _Dean_ read _principal clergyman_. + +246, line 16, read _some of the Nasaphiel silver ore_. + + * * * * * + +_Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe-Lane, London._ + +_Of the Publishers of this Work may be had the following Works, written +or edited by_ DR. SMITH. + + + 1. PLANTARUM ICONES HACTENUS INEDIT[AE], plerumque ad Plantas in + Herbario Linn[ae]ano conservatas delineat[ae]. Fascic. I. II. III. Small + Folio, each containing 25 Plates, Price Three Guineas in Boards. + 1789, &c. + + 2. CAROLI LINN[AE]I FLORA LAPPONICA, exhibens Plantas per Lapponiam + crescentes, secundum Systema Sexuale, collectas in Itinere Impensis + Reg. Scient. Upsaliensis Anno 1782 instituto. Additis Synonymis, et + Locis Natalibus omnium, Descriptionibus et Figuris rariorum, Viribus + medicatis et [oe]conomicis plurimarum. Editio altera, aucta et + emendata. 1792. In one Volume Octavo, with a Frontispiece and Twelve + Engravings. 12_s._ in Boards. + + 3. A SKETCH of a TOUR on the CONTINENT. The Second Edition. 1807. 3 + Vols. 8vo. Price 1[L]. 7_s._ in Boards. + + 4. TRACTS relating to NATURAL HISTORY, with coloured Plates. 8vo. + 1798. 7_s._ Boards. + + 5. FLORA BRITANNICA, Vol. I. II. III. 8vo. 1800, &c. 1[L]. 6_s._ 6_d._ + Boards.--The Fourth Volume of this Work will be published as + speedily as possible. + + 6. COMPENDIUM FLOR[AE] BRITANNIC[AE], Pars I. Crown 8vo. 3_s._ sewed.--The + Conclusion of this Work will appear with that of the preceding. + + 7. An INTRODUCTION to PHYSIOLOGICAL and SYSTEMATICAL BOTANY. Second + Edition. 1809. 8vo. with 14 Plates. 14_s._ Boards; or with the + Plates coloured, 1[L]. 8_s._ in Boards. + + 8. A TOUR to HAFOD in CARDIGANSHIRE, the seat of THOMAS JOHNES, + Esq., M. P.; beautifully printed by Beasley in Super-royal Folio, + and accompanied by FIFTEEN VIEWS (Size 20 Inches by 13-1/2) engraved + in Aquatinta and coloured to imitate the original drawings, by JOHN + SMITH. Price Twelve Guineas in Boards.--Only 100 Copies are printed. + + 9. FLORA GR[AE]CA: sive Plantarum rariorum Historia, quas in Provinciis + aut Insulis Gr[ae]ci[ae] legit, investigavit, et depingi curavit JOHANNES + SIBTHORP, M. D. S. S. Reg. et Linn. Lond. Socius, Bot. Professor + Regius in Academia Oxoniensi. Hic illic etiam insert[ae] sunt paucul[ae] + Species quas Vir idem clarissimus, Gr[ae]ciam versus navigans, in + Itinere, pr[ae]sertim apud Italiam et Siciliam, invenerit. Characteres + omnium, Descriptiones et Synonyma elaboravit JACOBUS EDVARDUS SMITH, + M. D. &c. Fasciculi I. et II. Folio (forming the First Volume.) with + 50 beautifully coloured Engravings in each, Price Twelve Guineas + each in Boards.--The Third Fasciculus is in considerable + Forwardness. + + 10. PRODROMUS FLORE GR[AE]C[AE], Pars I. et II. (forming the First Volume) + Royal 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._ each Part in Boards. + + +_Also published by_ WHITE _and_ COCHRANE, + + The LIFE of Sir CHARLES LINN[AE]US. To which are added, a copious List + of his Works, and a Biographical Sketch of the Life of his Son, by + D. H. STOEVER. Translated from the original German by JOSEPH TRAPP, + A. M. Handsomely printed in Quarto, with a Portrait, Price One + Guinea in Boards.--A few Copies in Royal Quarto, Price 1[L], 11_s._ + 6_d._ + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The discovery of the plant in question is related in the _Flora +Lapponica_ in so interesting a manner, that we cannot refrain from +translating the passage. See the second edition, p. 135. + +"I met with this plant but once, and that throughout a journey of four +hours, over the celebrated mountain of Wallivari in the district of +Lulea, towards a tract of country which lies about half way between the +northern and western part, where it grew in great abundance. + +"Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse perspiration, facing +the cold wind, at midnight; if I may call it night when the sun was +shining without setting at all; still anxiously inquiring of my +interpreter how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which I had for two +hours been expecting, though I knew not its precise situation; casting +my eager eyes around me in all directions, I perceived as it were the +shadow of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking it for the +_Empetrum_. But after going a few steps further, an idea of its being +something I was unacquainted with came across my mind, and I turned +back; when I should again have taken it for the _Empetrum_, had not its +greater height caused me to consider it with more attention. I know not +what it is that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the night, as +to render objects far less distinct than in the middle of the day, +though the sun shines equally bright. The sun being near the horizon, +spreads its rays in such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely +protect our eyes: besides, the shadows of plants are so infinitely +extended, and so confounded with each other, from the tremulous +agitation caused by the blustering wind, that objects very different in +themselves are scarcely to be distinguished from each other. Having +gathered one of these plants, I looked about and found several more in +the neighbourhood, all on the north side, where they grew in plenty; but +I never met with the same in any other place afterwards. As at this time +they had lost their flowers, and were ripening seed, it was not till +after I had sought for a very long time that I met with a single flower, +which was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with five sharper +divisions." + +[2] This strange passage is presumed to allude to a little gun, four or +five inches long, still shown in the arsenal at Stockholm, with which +vulgar report says the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas. + +[3] It is not impossible that Linn[ae]us might be misled here by the +prejudices of his time, or by those of the people from whom he obtained +his account. + +[4] The whole of this account of the hay consists, in the manuscript, of +such concise, disjointed, and obscure notes, that we are by no means +certain of having preserved the exact sense. + +[5] La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge, observes that "it +is attached by a single trace or thong, passing under the belly of the +reindeer, and fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's +neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to his horns, serves, +when pulled in a straight line, to stop his course, or, when drawn +toward either side, to turn him in that direction. When this cord is +made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on the back, it urges +him to greater speed. The overturn of the sledge, where the road is +uneven, is prevented by a stick, which serves, like the oar or paddle of +a boat, to guide its course." + +[6] Linn[ae]us records this misfortune in his _Flora Lapponica_, at n. 42, +see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speaking of _Arundo Calamagrostis_, he says +he "presumes the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no +opportunity of comparing his plant with books and descriptions, having +lost the specimen, with various other natural productions, by being cast +away as he was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland." The +synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus by memory applied, proves +to be erroneous. + +[7] This account does not agree with the description in the _Flora +Lapponica_, but is the most correct. + +[8] This also is correct. + +[9] A few further remarks on the above subject, printed in the _Flora +Lapponica_, may be acceptable to the English reader. + +"This disease made no regular progress, nor was it communicated by +infection from one animal to another. The cows are driven all together +in the spring to feed in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on +the other side of a creek of the river, in which I was informed the +greatest mortality happened. The symptoms differ in different cases; but +all the cattle, feeding indiscriminately, are seized with a swelling of +the abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with horrid bellowing, +in the space of a few days. No person dares venture to flay the recent +carcases, it having been found by experience that not only the hands, +but even the face, in consequence of the warm steams from the body, +became inflamed and gangrenous, and that death finally ensued. + +"I was asked whether this disease was a kind of plague; whether the +meadow in question produced any venomous spiders; or whether the +yellow-coloured water was poisonous. + +"That it was no plague appeared from its not being contagious, and from +the spring being its most fatal season. I saw no spiders here, except +what are common throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow sediment of +the water any thing more than a common innocent ochre of iron. + +"I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was taken to this +meadow, than the _Cicuta_ presented itself before me, and explained the +cause of all this destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow where +the cattle are first seized with the distemper, especially near the +shore. The slightest observation teaches us that brute animals +distinguish, by natural instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, +from such as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not eat this Hemlock +in summer or autumn; whence few of them perish at those seasons, and +such only as devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an +inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned out in the spring, +partly from their eagerness for fresh herbage, partly from their long +fasting and starvation, they seize with avidity whatever comes within +their reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient to satisfy +them; probably also it is in general more succulent, immersed under +water, and scarcely perceptibly scented; so that they are unable to +distinguish the wholesome from the pernicious kinds. I remarked every +where that the radical leaves only were cropped, no others; which +confirmed what I have asserted. In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same +plant cut with the hay for winter food; so that it is no wonder if in +that state some, even of the more cautious cattle, are destroyed by it." +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 76. + +[10] This plant is not mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica_, and the +account annexed seems to belong to _Ligusticum scoticum_, n. 107 of that +work, with which it well agrees. + +[11] Linn[ae]us in this description denominates these leaflets, whether of +the general or partial involucrum, _radii_, a term he always +subsequently used for the stalks of the umbels. + +[12] King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit to Tornea in 1694, was +accompanied by Count G. Douglas the Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper +Counsellor of Chancery, J. Hoghusen Counsellor of the Board of War, and +some other learned men, and in the night between the 13th and 14th of +June saw, from the belfry of the church, the midnight sun, at that time +visible there to a person placed on such an elevation. The year +following, Professors Bilberg and Spole were sent to Tornea to repeat +these observations. The royal visit to Tornea was commemorated by a +medal struck on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the king; +on the reverse, a representation of the sun half above the horizon, with +this motto, _Soli inocciduo Sol obvius alter_; and beneath, _Iter Regis +ad Botniam Occidentalem_, _Mense Junio_ 1694. + +[13] _Stegerhusen._ I have not been able to make out the precise meaning +of this word. + +[14] John Messenius, famous for his learning and his misfortunes, was +professor of law and politics at Upsal, in the reign of the great +Gustavus Adolphus, who had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all +his wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and hatred of some of +the colleagues of this able man, especially of John Rudbeck, a malignant +though learned theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify +Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius to Stockholm, and made +him a member of the new council established there. The latter was +formally accused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic king +Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual prison, where he composed a +great work entitled _Scandia illustrata_, published at Stockholm between +the years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son Arnold might be +justified for detesting those who had persecuted his illustrious father, +but not for the folly of expressing his feelings in satirical +publications against people in power. For this he paid with his life on +the scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, suffered with him. + +[15] In the Journal, vol. i. 101, Linn[ae]us speaks of Mr. Oladron as the +curate of Lycksele, and his wife. + +[16] The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not agree with the +original journal, which therefore I have followed. See the first page of +this volume. + +[17] _Jacq. Ic. Rar. t. 154. Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1287._ + +[18] We know not what species the author intends by this name. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes + +Non-standard spellings have been retained as printed. These are listed +as suspect typographical errors as follows: + +page 59: suspect typo "skain" for "skein" ( ... being wrapped round the +hand like a skain of thread ...) + +page 73: suspect typo "basons" for "basins" (The fat part of the broth +is first served up in basons.) + +Changes to typographical errors in the text are as follows: + +page 182: changed "Servet-mjolk" to "Servet-mj[:o]lk". + +page 198 changed "close" to "closed" ( ... a trough, closed on all +sides, ...) + +Page 296 added "i." (parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. +242.) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + +***** This file should be named 36059.txt or 36059.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/5/36059/ + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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