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diff --git a/36059-0.txt b/36059-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f8f79ed --- /dev/null +++ b/36059-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6100 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lachesis Lapponica + A Tour in Lapland + +Author: Carl von Linné + +Editor: James Edward Smith + +Translator: Charles Troilius + +Release Date: May 8, 2011 [EBook #36059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + + + + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes + +In this Plain Text version symbols from UTF-8 (Unicode) character sets +are used. If the following symbols do not appear correctly, a unicode +font should be used, or a different version of the e-book selected: + + β, γ, κ, λ (Greek symbols) + Œ, œ (oe-ligatures) + ă (lower case a with breve) + +Italic typeface is represented by surrounding _underscores_. Small +caps typeface is represented by UPPER CASE. + +Archaic or inconsistent spellings, hyphenation and punctuation are +retained as printed except where typographical errors have been +corrected: any corrections are listed at the end of the book. + +Note that the style of capitalised species names are retained as +they appear in the original. + + * * * * * + + _Lachesis Lapponica_, + + OR A + + TOUR IN LAPLAND, + + NOW FIRST PUBLISHED + FROM THE + ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL + OF THE CELEBRATED + + LINNÆUS; + + BY + + JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M.D. F.R.S. ETC. + PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + VOL. II. + + + "Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus." + OVID. + + + _LONDON_: + PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD, + FLEET-STREET, + BY RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOE-LANE. + + 1811. + + + + +JOURNEY TO LAPLAND. + + +In the latter part of this day, _July 15th_, I set out on my return from +the low grounds of Norway. The heat was very powerful as we began to +ascend the mountains. When we reached what had seemed to us from below +the summit of a hill, we saw just as lofty an eminence before us, and +this was the case nine or ten successive times. I had no idea of such +mountains before. The elevation of this hill cannot be taken by any +geometrical instrument, as the summit is not visible, even at some miles +distance. I believe its height must exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb +it was worse than going two miles any other way. Had we not frequently +met with such abundance of water, we should have been overcome with +fatigue. In this ascent I found the little _Astragalus_ (_alpinus_) with +a white flower, and the Little Gentian (_Gentiana nivalis_). + +Our clothes, which were wet quite through with perspiration, in +consequence of the heat we had encountered in the beginning of our +journey, were now frozen stiff upon our backs by the cold. We determined +to seek for a Laplander's hut. In order to get at one, we were obliged +to descend so steep a hill, that, being unable to walk down it, I lay +down on my back and slid along, with the rapidity of an arrow from a +bow. I avoided with difficulty the large snow torrents that every now +and then came in my way, and which were sometimes within an ell of me. + +On reaching this hut, I noticed some of the reindeer whose horns were +not above half an inch long, the Brom-fly (_Oestrus Tarandi_) having +bitten them while quite tender; for these insects are, in the Norwegian +alps, worse than the gnats of Swedish Lapland. + +I here obtained a curious piece of information respecting the mode of +castrating the reindeer. When the animal is two years and a half old, +its owner, about a fortnight before Michaelmas, getting a person to +assist him by holding it fast by the horns, places himself betwixt its +hind legs. He then applies his teeth to the _scrotum_, so as to bruise +its contents, but not so as to break the skin, for in that case the +reindeer would die. He afterwards bruises the part still more +effectually between his fingers. The same operation is performed on both +sides, if the reindeer remains quiet long enough for the purpose at one +time. The animal is in consequence rather indisposed for a while, so +that he can hardly keep up with the rest of the herd, but he usually +recovers perfectly in a week's time. This is certainly an art, no less +curious than remarkable, and merits further consideration. + +The girls here, especially when they wish to appear to advantage, divide +their hair into two braids, one above each ear, which braids are tied +together, at the hind part of the head, so as to hang down the back. A +tuft of ribands is appended to the extremity of each braid. + + +_July 16._ + +We undertook to cross the ice-mountain. Having proceeded some way on our +journey, we observed a dense cloud to the north-east. It was visible +both above and below us, and at length approached us in the form of a +thick mist, which moistened our clothes, and rendered even our hair +thoroughly wet. It so completely obliterated our horizon, that we could +neither see sun nor moon, nor the summits of the neighbouring hills. We +knew not whither to turn our steps, fearing on the one hand to fall down +a precipice and lose our lives, as actually happened, a few years ago, +to a Laplander under the same circumstances; or on the other to be +plunged into the alpine torrent, which had worn so deep a channel +through the snow, as to make any one giddy, looking upon it from above. +We could now not distinguish any thing a couple of ells before us. Our +situation was like that of an unskilful mariner at sea without a +compass, out of sight of land, and surrounded by hidden rocks on every +side. The Laplanders themselves consider the situation we were in as one +of the worst accidents that can ever befall them. We, however, though +destitute of a guide, were fortunate enough to discover the track of a +reindeer, and of some kind of carriage in which goods had probably been +lately conveyed towards Norway. This track directed us safely to one of +the Lapland moveable tents. + +All the Laplanders are usually blear-eyed, so that one would think the +word _Lappi_ (Laplanders) was derived from _lippi_ (blear-eyed). The +causes of this inconvenience are various, but chiefly the following. + +1. The sharp winds. In the early part of my journey, repeated exposure +to stormy weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I became unable to open +them wide, and was obliged to keep them half shut. How much more must +this be the case with those who dwell on the alps, where there is a +perpetual wind! + +2. The snow, the whiteness of which, when the sun shone upon it, was +very troublesome to me. To this the alpine Laplanders are continually +exposed. + +3. The fogs. This day I found myself very comfortable in my walk over +the icy mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud, whichever it might be +called, came about me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as well as +my own, so weak and relaxed, that we could not open them wide without an +effort. Such must often be the case with the Laplanders. + +4. Smoke. How is it possible that these people should not be blear-eyed, +when they are so continually shut up in their huts, where the smoke has +no outlet but by the hole in the roof, and consequently fills every +body's eyes as it passes! + +5. The severity of the cold in this country must also contribute to the +same inconvenience. + +The mountain Laplanders, or those who live in the alps, build no huts; +they have only tents made in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +The first figure represents two connected beams, which compose the +frame-work of one side of the hut; and these meet at the top with two +similar ones, forming the opposite side. A solitary beam is placed on +each side, in the middle of the arch formed by these four, so that the +whole edifice has six angles. Two more slender sticks, but equally tall, +are then erected between every two angles, or main ribs, of the +building. Over the whole is spread the covering of the tent (made of +walmal cloth). The usual height of the structure is about a fathom and +half, and the breadth two fathoms. A flap of cloth is left, so as to +open and shut by way of a door, between two of the main beams. + +[Illustration] + +When they lie down to rest, and are fearful of being incommoded by heat, +they fix a hook through the middle of the coverlet, which raises it +perhaps an ell and a half above them, and under this canopy they repose. + +[Illustration] + +The women wear several things attached to their belt, as a leather bag, +_fig._ 1, containing a spoon, as well as a pipe, _fig._ 3. + +_Fig._ 2. A knife in a case. + +4. A thimble made of leather, which goes round the finger. + +5. A pin-cushion, with a brass cover which pulls down over it like a +cap. + +6. Several large brass rings. + +The belt itself is ornamented with tin or silver embroidery, and +pearls. + +[Illustration] + +The men wear, instead of the above, a kind of bag, hanging down exactly +in front. This is divided internally into two pockets, containing their +tobacco-pipe, tinder-box, tobacco, and a spoon made of reindeer's horn, +of an oblong flattish shape. + +The women often wear a similar bag, but of a smaller size. + +When the reindeer are milked, as they cast their coat during the whole +course of the summer, the hair flies about very inconveniently, often +covering the milk in the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs of the +animal, and it is found necessary to clean and soften them before the +milking is begun. This is generally done by dipping the fingers into the +milk which may be in the pail already, and washing them therewith. +Whenever it happens that one of the reindeer strays from its master's +herd to that of a neighbour, the person to whom it comes milks it, +without any offence to the proper owner. Such an accident often happens; +for these animals love society, and the more of them there are together, +the better they thrive and enjoy themselves. They are marked at the +ears, like cows, that every person may know his own. + +The furniture of these Laplanders consists of kettles and pots, made +sometimes of brass, sometimes of copper; rarely of stone, on account of +the weight. They have also hemispherical bowls, with handles, generally +made of the hard knotty excrescences of the birch. These are often large +enough to hold four or five cans, (of three quarts each,) and formed so +neatly, that any one would believe them to be turned. Into these they +pour what is to be served up at their meals. Plates they have none, but +in their stead boards, of an oblong shape, are used for meat; which, +previous to its distribution among the guests, is served up in round +pails. Closely platted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are used to +keep cheese in. There is moreover an oblong barrel, for the purpose of +holding _jumomjolk_ (_vol._ 1. _p._ 273). + +Within the tent are spread on each side skins of reindeer, with the +hairy part uppermost, on which the people either sit or lie down, for +the tent is not lofty enough to allow any one to stand upright. In the +centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a square enclosure of low +stones about the ash-heap. The back part of the tent, behind the +fire-place, is entirely occupied either with brush-wood or branches of +trees, behind which, or, most commonly, before it next the fire, the +household furniture is placed. In the roof are two racks, suspended over +the reindeer skins on each side, upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and +before these, towards the entrance, hang rennet-bags, filled with milk, +preserved for winter use. + +The annexed figure is a sort of plan of the floor of one of these +Lapland tents. a is the fire-place. b, b, reindeer skins, six in number, +three at the right hand, on entering the tent, and as many at the left. +c large fire-wood. d cheese-vessels. e kettle, with its lid. f, behind +the first reindeer skin, is the place of the harness. g a barrel or +cask. h a store of skins and hair of the reindeer. i the milk-strainer, +with its flat cover. + +[Illustration] + +The following figure represents the roof of the tent, as seen from +below. a, a, are the racks on which the cheeses are ranged. b outlet for +the smoke. c, c, rennet-bags containing milk. d plat of hair from the +reindeer's tail, to strain milk through. e the flat cover of the +milk-strainer; see i in the former figure. + +[Illustration] + +Such was the dwelling, and I shall now describe some of its inhabitants. +I sat myself down at the right hand of the entrance, with my legs +across. Opposite to me sat an old woman, with one leg bent, the other +straight. Her dress came no lower than her knees, but she had a belt +embroidered with silver. Her grey hair hung straight down, and she had a +wrinkled face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was altogether of the +Lapland cast. Her fingers were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next to her +sat her husband, a young man, six-and-thirty years of age, who, for the +sake of her large herds of reindeer, had already been married ten years +to this old hag. When the Laplanders sit, they either cross their legs +under them, or one knee is bent, the other straight. + +As a defence against wind and snow, a sort of hood, called +_nialmiphata_, is worn over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of the +shape of a truncated cone, dilated at the bottom, and is four palms +high, three palms in circumference at the upper part, and six at the +bottom. This covers the cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders, the +eyes and mouth only being exposed. In the back part, at bottom, is a +loop, through which goes a riband to secure the whole from being blown +off, by being tied round the body under the arms. + +In winter-time the women wear breeches, made exactly like those worn by +the men, as well as boots, though the latter come no higher than the +knees. It is wonderful how they are able, in the severity of winter, to +follow the reindeer, which are never at rest, but keep feeding by night +as well as by day. They have indeed small sheds or huts, here and there, +into which they occasionally drive their reindeer, but with the greatest +difficulty. + +During the night we passed over the beautiful lake of _Wirisiar_. The +weather was very cold and foggy. + + +_July 17._ + +In the morning we arrived at the abode of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff, +where I could not but admire the fairness of the bodies of these +dark-faced people, which rivalled that of any lady whatever. + +Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in Lapland _Lummick_. The body of +these animals is grey; face and shoulders black; the loins blackish; +tail, as well as ears, very short. They feed on grass and reindeer-moss +(_Lichen rangiferinus_), and are not eatable. They live, for the most +part, in the alps; but in some years thousands of them come down into +the woodland countries, passing right over lakes, bogs, and marshes, by +which great numbers perish. They are by no means timid, but look out, +from their holes, at passengers, like a dog. They bring forth five or +six at a birth. Their burrows are about half a quarter (of an ell?) +deep. + +Here I found the little Gentian, or Centaury, with a hyacinthine flower +in five notched segments (_Gentiana nivalis_). + + +_July 18._ + +I gathered and examined the little Catchfly, which resembles the common +one (_Lychnis Viscaria_) except in being smaller, and not at all viscid. +(_L. alpina_; see _v._ 1. _p._ 302. _n._ 46.) The root is perennial. +Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to linear. Stem simple, round, +smooth, bearing two, three, or four pairs of opposite leaves. From the +uppermost pair springs one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a single +flower, between two small opposite purple leaves. A little higher up, +two other simple flower-stalks come forth in the same manner, with two +coloured leaves at their base, the stem being thus extended straight +upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured, with five teeth. Petals five, +their disk cloven half way down; the crown with two teeth. Stamens 10. +Pistils 5. + +After passing the alps, we grew thirsty; but the water we met with +proved less pleasant than usual, having an earthy taste, although it +flowed from plentiful stores of ice and snow. My Laplander took his +knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he sucked by way of refreshment. +I found this mode of drinking agreeable enough, the ice being very +palatable, and we both partook of it largely. He told me it was +considered very wholesome for the chest. Indeed I learned, both from the +Laplanders and my own experience, that pure water, however cold, is +never hurtful, provided it be taken in moderation. + +I was desirous of having my linen washed; but the people understood my +request as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a single article of +their own apparel being made of linen. As their food is of animal +origin, so is their clothing, which consists either of skins, the +produce of the country, or of the woollen cloth called _walmal_, which +they purchase. In the winter they wear Lapland boots, which come up as +high as the middle of the thighs, without any stockings, only the feet +are protected with what they term _Skogras_ (_Carex sylvatica_ Fl. +Brit.), as already mentioned. Next to the body they wear a jacket of +_walmal_, and above that a _lappmudd_, or coat of reindeer skin, with +the hairy side turned inwards. In summer they turn that side outwards. +The boots used by the women do not reach higher than the knee. + + +_July 19._ + +I remarked with astonishment how greatly the reindeer are incommoded in +hot weather, insomuch that they cannot stand still a minute, no not a +moment, without changing their posture, starting, puffing and blowing +continually, and all on account of a little fly. Even though amongst a +herd of perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not above ten of these +flies, every one of the herd trembled and kept pushing its neighbour +about. The fly meanwhile was trying every means to get at them; but it +no sooner touched any part of their bodies, than they made an immediate +effort to shake it off. In one respect this season is peculiarly +propitious to the insect, as the reindeer's coat is now very thin, most +of the hair of last year's growth being fallen off. I caught one of +these insects as it was flying along with its tail protruded, which had +at its extremity a small linear orifice, perfectly white. The tail +itself consisted of four or five tubular joints, slipping into each +other, like a pocket spying-glass, which this fly, like others, has a +power of contracting at pleasure. See what I have already mentioned +(_vol._ 1. _p._ 280), concerning the spots in the reindeer skins, as +caused by this insect (_Oestrus Tarandi_). + +When the Lapland children are laid into the cradle, they seldom cry, +although their hands are confined down to their sides. If they cry, it +is generally from hunger. The cradle is placed in a sloping position, so +that the child's head is half upright. The bottom of the cradle is +hollowed out of a piece of fir wood, consequently not very heavy. Over +the head of the child is a hoop forming an arch, to which a transverse +bow is fixed, the whole being covered with cloth, like the rest of the +cradle. In summer the child lies without any covering of reindeer hair, +only having under its head and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or +moss. + +The Laplanders use a curious kind of box or basket, which they call +_kisa_, for keeping or carrying various articles. It is of an oval form, +with the bottom and sides made of fir, like a box, being about a foot +and half long, a foot broad, and six inches deep, with a transverse +opening in the bottom to admit a part of the saddle of the reindeer. The +contents are confined by a lacing of cords, that goes from side to side +across the top, which is otherwise open. Two such boxes, each weighing +about two pounds, are placed like panniers upon the reindeer; for that +animal cannot carry above four or five pounds weight, and the castrated +males only are used as beasts of burthen at all. A leather thong crosses +the saddle, connected with another longer one, which goes round the +chest of the animal at one part, and round its thighs, like the +breechings of a horse, at the other. A pack-saddle, made either of +reindeer skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of spruce fir, goes across +the back, and is connected with the leather thongs just mentioned, being +further secured by a girth under the belly. Against the sides of this +pack-saddle the above-described boxes or baskets are hung and fastened, +the transverse chink in the bottom of each being fitted to the saddle. + +I observed that the Laplanders, both men and women, after borrowing a +lighted pipe, and passing it from one to another, retain a mouthful of +smoke as long as possible, that they may enjoy as much of the flavour as +they can. Old men chew tobacco. + +The tendons in the legs of the reindeer serve to make thread or cord. In +each hind leg are two tendons, one before the other; in each fore leg +one behind and two or three before it. These the Laplanders lay hold of +with their mouths, split and moisten them, rubbing them from time to +time with reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for that use, in order +to render them as supple as possible. Each string is made sharp at both +ends, and drawn through holes of various sizes in an instrument made on +purpose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine and smooth as they can. +Two such threads are then twisted together by means of the hand upon +the thigh or knee. They are generally held with the left hand, and +twisted with the right upon the left knee, proceeding downwards, the +thread being moistened from time to time with saliva. + +In this part of the country the _Empetrum_ (Crow- or Crake-berry) serves +for firing. Otherwise the most common fuel is the dwarf Birch (_Betula +nana_), and the Willow with lanceolate white hairy leaves (_Salix +lapponum_), so very abundant on the Lapland alps. The dwarf birch bears +very small leaves in these elevated regions. + +When the children are taken out of the cradle, which I have already +described (_vol._ 2. _p._ 23), they are dressed in a small garment of +reindeer skin. They are usually able to stand on their legs by the time +they are four months old, and turn their head and eyes about with a +degree of intelligence hardly ever seen in our children at that early +age. + +I never met with any people who lead such easy happy lives as the +Laplanders. In summer they make two meals of milk in the course of the +day, and when they have gone through their allotted task of milking +their reindeer, or making cheese, they resign themselves to indolent +tranquillity, not knowing what to do next. In winter their food is +cheese, taken once or twice a day, but in the evening they eat meat. A +single reindeer supplies four persons with food for a week. + +This animal has no gall-bladder, nor could I discover the insertion of +the biliary duct. The liver however is of a large size. The first +stomach is large, with a thick orifice, and lined with a fine cellular +network like that of a cow, being moreover longitudinally plaited. The +Laplanders are curious dissectors. They take out each of the stomachs +separately, with as much care as a professed anatomist. + +The thread made of sinews, as above described, is never used for sewing +_walmal_, which makes their summer clothing, but only for garments +composed of fur or leather. Their shoes indeed are mended, as well as +made, with it. This last business falls to the lot of the women. The +leather is purchased. + +A good ox may be bought in Norway for three rix-dollars; a female +reindeer for one rix-dollar; a castrated male for from twelve to +eighteen dollars, silver coin; and a fawn is worth from twelve to +eighteen dollars of copper money. Three reindeer, therefore, are but +equal to the value of a common ox. + +I left this place in the evening, proceeding on my journey on foot, and +walking all night long, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the +following day. Thus I walked six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at +another Lapland hut. + +[Illustration] + +Nothing occurred particularly worth noticing by the way, except an +_Andromeda_ (_tetragona_) with quadrangular shoots, and flowers from +the bosoms of the leaves. The stem is woody, procumbent, naked, +thread-shaped, variously divided. Branches partly erect, entirely +covered with leaves, which are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded, +concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an imbricated manner. +Flower-stalks solitary, from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, +thread-shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping flower. Calyx +five-cleft, purplish, with ovate straight segments. Petal one, +half-ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the lily of the valley, cut +half way down into five erect acute segments. Stamens ten, very short, +with horned anthers, scarcely longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the +length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish, with five obtuse angles, erect, +of five cells, with several seeds[1]. + + +_July 20._ + +The people here use a kind of bread called _Blodbrod_ (Blood Bread), +made of small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a little quantity of +flour. This is baked or roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is +used only in hard times. + +There are no common flies, bugs, nor snakes, on these Alps. + +The Laplanders however abound with lice, which in winter are allowed to +freeze, when they turn red, and are easily killed. In summer they come +forth from the clothes, if exposed to the sun, and are then destroyed +with the nails, these people having no firelock to shoot them with[2]. + +I was informed that in this neighbourhood the inoculated small-pox is +remarkably fatal. If the patients have but seventy or eighty pustules, +they die of it as of the plague. They fly to the mountains, when +infected, and die. The same is the case with the measles. It appears +that both these diseases are aggravated by the violent cold, whence the +patients die in so miserable a manner[3]. + +Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent. + +Sore eyes are universal, especially in the spring, when the Laplanders +remove towards the Alps. The glittering of the snow has then a +pernicious effect on their eyes. Aged people are very often blind. + +Female obstructions are rare, though sometimes met with among the better +sort of people; neither are the _catamenia_ immoderate, nor in common so +copious as with us. The Lapland women are entirely ignorant of the +_leucorrhœa_. + +Of hysterics I met with but two cases. One maid-servant, twenty-four +years of age, had the complaint about once a year; another, about +thirty, was attacked with it monthly during the summer. + +Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs are frequent; hence the forehead is +often seen full of scars (from the application of their _toule_, or +_moxa_; see _vol._ 1. _p._ 274). + +Elderly people are often hard of hearing. + +The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly sound, and they are in the habit +of sleeping or waking whenever they please. + +A swelling, or falling down, of the _uvula_ is not uncommon, in which +case they frequently cut off the part affected. + +When children are troubled with swellings in the glands about the +throat, the usual remedy is to prick the part, and suck out the blood, +which is considered as a speedy and effectual cure. If this method be +not adopted, they suppose the blood would rise to the head, and cause +cutaneous eruptions there. + +Coughs are of very rare occurrence, notwithstanding the constant +practice of drinking snow- and ice-water, even after swallowing pure +grease or fat, which perhaps may prevent its bad consequences. However +this may be, the Laplanders seldom die from catching cold. Cases of +_phthisis_, or consumption, do indeed now and then occur among them, and +pleurisies are very common, especially in spring and autumn. Lumbago, or +pain in the back, is most prevalent during the summer. For this, as I +have already mentioned, _vol._ 1. _p._ 274, actual cautery, by means of +their _toule_, or _moxa_, is often applied. + +Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens among those Lapland women who are +in the service of the colonists, and who, in consequence of certain +obstructions, are subject also to œdematous swellings of the feet. + +I have not heard of a single instance of jaundice. + +Some elderly people are afflicted with asthma; and hoarsenesses now and +then occur in the winter and spring. + +The stone and gout are entirely unknown amongst the Laplanders. + +Swellings of the lower extremities are uncommon, as these people are in +the habit of swathing their legs, which renders them all slender and +well shaped. All dropsical complaints indeed are very rare, though I did +meet with one case of this kind. + +Of _tenesmus_ I happened to hear of but a single instance, though the +Laplanders eat so much cheese and drink water. + +Disorders in the stomach are not uncommon, which are frequently attended +with _diarrhœa_, and in some years this disease is contagious. + +The specimens of minerals which I had collected in the course of my +tour were now become numerous, and consisted of the following articles. + +1. An alum, as I presume, of a club shape, without any taste, seeming as +it were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains to the north of the lake +Skalk, near Kiomitis. (See _vol._ 1. _p._ 267.) + +2. Native alum in its own matrix; from the same place. (_Alumen +nativum._ _Syst. Nat._ _vol._ 3. 101). + +3. Native alum, rough and green, separate from its matrix; from the same +mountains. + +4. Alum like the former in appearance, but not salt, perhaps a +calcareous stone; found not far from the same place. + +5. Various alpine micaceous stones. + +6. Marle from Lapland. + +7. Quartz from Lapland. + +8. Silver ore from Kiurivari. + +9. Silver ore from Nasaphiel in Pithœan Lapland. + +10. Sandstone containing three per cent. of iron. + +11. Black slate from the alps. + +12. Petrified corals from Norway. + +13. Iridescent fluors from the alps. + +The fish called by the Laplanders _Sijk_ (the Gwiniad, or _Salmo +Lavaretus_,) is taken in their lakes. Its head terminates in an obtuse +point. The upper jaw is the longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of the +eye silvery, with a blackish upper edge, and a black pupil. The whole +body is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven inches long and two +deep. Head two inches long at the sides; from the snout to the dorsal +fin four inches and a half. The dorsal fin consists of thirteen rays, of +which the first is by far the largest, and the last cloven or +interrupted. The soft fat fin is in its proper place. + + +_July 21._ + +The following are the disorders or inconveniences to which the reindeer +are subject. + +When the frost is so intense as to form an impenetrable crust on the +surface of the snow, so that the animal cannot break it with his feet, +to get at the Lichen on which he feeds, he is frequently starved to +death. This misfortune is as dreadful to the Laplanders as any public or +national calamity elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed, he must +himself either starve to death, beg for his livelihood, or turn thief. + +The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncommonly affected with a swelling at +the edge where they are attached to the skin, at which part they +consequently become ulcerated, and are seldom healed. The creature thus +grows lame, and cannot keep up with the herd. + +These animals are sometimes attacked with a _vertigo_, or giddiness in +the head, which causes them to run round and round continually. The +people assured me, that such of them as run according to the course of +the sun may be expected to get the better of the disorder; but those +which turn the contrary way, being supposed incurable, are immediately +killed. The recovery of the former is thought to be promoted by cutting +their ears, so as to cause a great discharge of blood. + +The _Kurbma_, or ulceration caused by the Gad-fly, (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +280.) takes place every spring, especially in the younger fawns. Such as +are brought forth in the summer season are free from this misfortune the +ensuing spring, but in the following one many of them lose their lives +by it. When come to their full size and strength, the consequences are +less fatal; but no reindeer is entirely exempt from the attacks of this +pernicious insect. + +The fawns are of a reddish hue the first season, during which they cut +their foreteeth. In the autumn they turn blackish, and have fodder given +them. They are when young frequently afflicted with a soreness in the +mouth, so as to be unable for a while to eat. + +Reindeer are subject to a disease called by the Laplanders _Pekke +Kattiata_, accompanied with ulcerations of the flesh, which however +often heal by a sloughing of the part affected. This is an epidemic +disorder. It is believed that if any of the ulcerous part, which is cast +off, be swallowed by the animal, in licking his own coat, or that of any +other of the herd labouring under this malady, it proves fatal by +corroding the viscera. + +The dugs of the female often become chapped or sore, so as to bleed +whenever they are milked. + +The male reindeer in his natural state is fatter than such as are +castrated, except the latter be kept without work, in which case they +become the fattest. Such as are castrated and allowed to run wild, +become considerably larger, as well as tamer, in consequence. + +The rutting season lasts but a fortnight, that is, from about a week +preceding the feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Michaelmas day, during +which period the male is savage and dangerous. Immediately afterwards he +casts his coat and horns, and not unfrequently becomes so emaciated, +that, in many instances, death is the consequence. + +Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.) in the following year, or within +a fortnight of that period, very rarely later, the females bring forth +their young. They do not copulate the first year, and seldom before the +third, their progeny being found the better for this delay. Indeed +neither the males nor females arrive at their full growth and perfection +before they are towards three years old. + +The fawn, whether male or female, is called the first year _mesk_; the +second season the male is called _orryck_, and the female _whenial_. In +the third year the latter, if she has been covered, is known by the +appellation of _watja_ or _waja_, which means a wife; if otherwise, she +goes by the name of _whenial-rotha_, the three-year old male being +called _wubbers_. In his fourth year the male is termed _koddutis_; in +the following one _kosittis_; in the sixth _machanis_, and in the +seventh _namma lappotachis_. After that period no male is kept, they all +perishing in consequence of the exhaustion above mentioned, but the +castrated ones live to a more advanced age. None of these animals +however survive beyond their twelfth or fourteenth year. When the +castrated males become very fat towards autumn, and show signs of old +age; or the females, having become barren, appear otherwise to be on the +decline, they are killed, by the knife, in the close of the year; from +an apprehension that they might otherwise perish of themselves from +infirmity, in the course of another season. + +Such of the male reindeer as are destined to serve for a stock of +provision, are killed before the rutting-time, and their carcases hung +up to be exposed to the air and frost before flaying. The flesh is +smoked and a little salted, and then laid upon sledges to dry in the +sun, that it may keep through the winter till spring. About the feast of +St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin to be so incommoded with the +gad-fly, that they are not in a fit condition to be slain for eating. +From that period therefore, till the milking season, the Laplanders are +obliged to live on this stock of preserved meat. At other times of the +year the females are killed for immediate use, according as they are +wanted. The blood is kept fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves +for food in the spring, being added to the _välling_ (see _vol._ 1. _p._ +129), with a small proportion of milk and water. The blood of these +animals is thick in consistence, like that of a hog. The Laplanders +carry a portion of it along with them from place to place, in bladders +or some kind of vessels. A stock of this and all other necessaries is +collected as late as possible, before the melting of the snow, while +there still remains a track for the sledges. + +A kind of blood pudding or sausage is made, in general without flour, +and with a large proportion of fat. This the Laplanders call _marfi_. + +The liver of the reindeer, which is of a considerable bulk, is boiled +and eaten fresh. The lungs, being salted and moderately dried, are eaten +occasionally, or else given to the dogs. The intestines, which abound +with fat, are cut open, washed, and boiled fresh; nor are they +unpalatable. The brain and testicles are never eaten. The foot is flayed +down to the fetlock joint, beyond which the hair cannot, by scalding or +any other contrivance, be separated, without the cuticle and skin coming +along with it. Even when the feet are boiled, the hair never comes off +without the skin. Thus the animal when living is the more firmly +protected against the snow. The hoofs are thrown away as useless. + +The dung of the reindeer in summer is almost as large as cow-dung, but +in winter it more resembles that of the goat. + +Each individual reindeer does not bear horns of precisely the same shape +every year. The points are very liable to be deformed, in consequence of +the animal's scratching them, while in a growing state, with its feet; +they being in that state much inclined to itch, and as tender as the +flesh of a fresh fish. + +These animals are afflicted with maggots called _kornmatskar_ in their +noses and gums, from which they relieve themselves in the spring by +snorting and blowing. When the insects lodge on their backs and form +pustules there, the people make a practice of squeezing them out, to +prevent the reindeer from being too much irritated by them. (This +species is the _Oestrus nasalis_, though the account here given is not +very clear; but in the first edition only of the _Fauna Suecica_ Linnæus +says, on the authority of a gentleman named Friedenreich, that "this +_Oestrus_ lodges its eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in +Lapland, and is frequently cast out by them as they travel along in the +spring.") + +When the skin is stripped from the carcase of the reindeer, it is +immediately spread out, and stretched as much as possible, by means of +a longitudinal pole, and a transverse stick at each end of the skin, +these sticks being pulled asunder with a strong cord. Several more +transverse twigs are placed between these two sticks, so as to extend +every part of the edges of the hide, which in this position is allowed +to dry. + +The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin taken from the legs of the +animal; their hairy shoes, of that from its forehead between the horns, +such being worth two dollars, copper money; while those made from the +skin of the legs, being much thinner, are of very little or no value. + +A Laplander never goes barefoot, though he has nothing to serve him for +stockings but hay (_Carex sylvatica_, _Fl. Brit._). Sometimes he buys +leather for shoes or boots from his neighbours. + +The people of this country boil their meat in water only, without any +addition or seasoning, and drink the broth. _Jumomjölk_ (see _vol._ 1. +278.) kept for a whole year is delicate eating. Berries of all kinds +are boiled in it. Some persons make a practice of boiling those berries +by themselves, preserving them afterwards in small tubs, or other wooden +vessels. They boil their fish more thoroughly than their meat, over a +slow fire, drinking likewise the water in which it has been drest. The +meat is never so much boiled as to separate from the bone. Fresh fish is +sometimes roasted over the fire. Few people dry and salt it, though that +method is sometimes practised. Meat is dried by the air, sun and smoke +all together, being hung up in the chimney, or rather hole by which the +smoke escapes through the roof. + +The Laplanders never eat of more than one dish at a meal. + +By way of dainty, the women occasionally mix the berries of the Dwarf +Cornel (_Cornus suecica_) with _Kappi_ (see _vol._ i. _p._ 281.), which +is made of whey boiled till it grows as thick as flummery. To this they +moreover add some cream. That fruit is entirely neglected in the country +of Medelpad. + +In Dalecarlia the people generally keep their cattle up in the +mountains, twelve or sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on account +of gad-flies and other stinging insects. There they have their dairies, +and make cheese. The remaining whey is boiled till two thirds are +wasted, when it becomes as thick as flummery. This is sometimes eaten +instead of butter, sometimes mixed with dough, or serves for food in +various other manners. + +The wind is excessively powerful in this alpine region, so that +sometimes it is impossible to stand against it, both men and sledges +being overturned by its violence. + +It blew so hard at the place where I now was, that one of the windows of +the curate's house was blown in upon the floor. + +Every Laplander constantly carries a sort of pole or stick, tipped with +a ferule, and furnished with a transverse bit of wood. Whenever he is +tired, he leans his arms and nose against it to rest himself. + +Such as live in the forests are dexterous marksmen, but not those who +inhabit the alps. Nevertheless, they all contrive, by means of their +wooden bows, to procure, in the course of the winter, a considerable +number of Squirrels (_Sciurus vulgaris_) in their grey or winter +clothing, for the sake of their skins. + +In the winter season also they go in pursuit of their most cruel enemies +the wolves. One of these animals will sometimes kill twenty or thirty +reindeer at a time, if he comes into the enclosure where they are. The +wolf often runs away before the Laplander can get near enough to fire at +him. A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, except by coming upon it +unawares, the latter being much the most swift of foot; but if he gets +into any of the store-houses, he does a great deal of mischief, turning +every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also very dangerous in the fissures +of rocks and mountains, where they usually conceal themselves. + +The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) does most harm in the pantry or +store-house. He never meddles with the reindeer. + +A part of the employment of the men is to make sledges, or other +machines of wood for carriage. They cut rough wood in the forests for +the boxes which they carry with them into the alps. + +The duty of the women is to mend the clothes of the whole family. + +Laplanders have several plays or amusements. + +Children make of the dwarf birch (_Betula nana_) something like +reindeer's horns, with which they gore one another in sport. They amuse +themselves frequently by building little huts of stone. + +Grown-up people play very well at tennis, but they seldom partake of +that diversion. More common amusements are blindman's buff, and drawing +gloves. + +Here I think it worth while to observe, that the alpine Laplanders are +more honest, as well as more good-natured, than those who dwell in the +woodlands. Having acquired more polish from their occasional intercourse +with the inhabitants of towns, the latter have, at the same time, +learned more cunning and deceit, and are frequently very knavish. The +inhabitants of the alps dwell in villages formed of their tents, living +together, as I have already related, in great comfort and harmony. Those +who occupy the woody parts of the country live dispersed. + +The Laplanders know no musical instrument except the _lur_ (a sort of +trumpet), and pipes made of the bark of the quicken tree or mountain +ash. They are not accustomed to sing at church, except those who are +reckoned among the great or learned of the community. + +The inhabitants of this country are not more troubled with chilblains +than those of other places. They do not mind having their cheeks +frost-bitten. The women wear an embroidered band round the head, which +affords no protection in this respect; but the men have a loose band of +skin with the hair on, which can be pulled down occasionally over their +cap, when the cold is intolerable. + +(But to proceed with a further account of the diversions of the people I +am describing). + +_Spetto_, one of their games, is played, by men as well as women, in the +following manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty or sixty pieces of +wood, a hand's breadth in length, which are spread upon the extended +skin of a reindeer. One of the players takes a ball made of stone or +marble, larger than a boy's playing marble, which he throws up into the +air about an ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches away one of the +sticks, but in such a manner as not to miss catching the ball in its +fall, holding the stick in the same hand. He subsequently gathers +together, in his other hand, as many of the sticks as he has thus been +able to procure. If he fails in any respect, another person is to take +the ball, and proceed in the same manner, the former player resigning up +to him one of the sticks every time the ball is thrown, till no more +remain in his own possession. He who can take up all the sticks wins the +game. + +The following rules are to be observed. + +1. He who catches the ball, but not one of the sticks, must resign the +ball to another player, as well as he who has let it fall. + +2. He who takes up more than one stick at a time, must return what he +has taken. + +3. The adversary, that is, the last player, who could not succeed in +taking up all the sticks, is allowed to lay down as many as he pleases +of the sticks he has collected, and may arrange them according to his +fancy. It is usual to lay one upon another, in order to render the game +more difficult, the player being obliged to snatch up each separately; +which is not easy without taking two, when so situated, at once. + +4. When at length one person has taken up all the sticks, his adversary +is permitted to replace the two last of them upon the skin in any manner +he chooses. He commonly separates them as widely as possible. The person +who had previously gained the whole, is then required to take up both +these sticks at one throw of the ball, and if he fails he must give up +the game. Thus the victory is often lost by means of these two last +sticks. + +5. When the adversary fails of his aim, the other player is to take all +the sticks lying on the field, as well as those which, after having been +laid down by himself, were won by the other person, and the whole are to +be laid down again directly, in order to be taken up according to the +above rules. But he is no longer under any obligation himself to take up +the sticks which he has thus laid for his companion. + +The game called _Tablut_ is played with a checkered board, and +twenty-five pieces, or men, in the following manner. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: Fig. 1, is the king, whose station is in the central +square or royal castle, called _konokis_ by the Laplanders, to which no +other person can be admitted.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes his subjects, +who, at the commencement of the game, are stationed in the eight +squares, adjoining to the royal castle, marked 2 and 3.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites, their adversaries, +who occupy the sixteen embroidered squares, (some of them marked 4 in +the cut,) situated four together in the middle of each side of the +field.] + +The vacant squares, distinguished by letters, may be occupied by any of +the pieces in the course of the game. + + +LAWS. + +1. Any piece may move from one square to another in a right line, as +from _a_ to _c_; but not corner-wise, or from _a_ to _e_. + +2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads of any other pieces that +may be in the way, or to move, for instance, from _b_ to _m_, in case +any were stationed at _e_ or _i_. + +3. If the king should stand in _b_, and no other piece in _e_, _i_, or +_m_, he may escape by that road, unless one of the Muscovites +immediately gets possession of one of the squares in question, so as to +interrupt him. + +4. If the king be able to accomplish this, the contest is at an end. + +5. If the king happens to be in _e_, and none of his own people or his +enemies either in _f_ or _g_, _i_ or _m_, his exit cannot be prevented. + +6. Whenever the person who moves the king perceives that a passage is +free, he must call out _raichi_, and if there be two ways open, +_tuichu_. + +7. It is allowable to move ever so far at once, in a right line, if the +squares in the way be vacant, as from _c_ to _n_. + +8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take it by turns to move. + +9. If any one man gets between two squares occupied by his enemies, he +is killed and taken off, except the king, who is not liable to this +misfortune. + +10. If the king, being in his own square or castle, is encompassed on +three sides by his enemies, one of them standing in each of three of the +squares numbered 2, he may move away by the fourth. If one of his own +people happens to be in this fourth square, and one of his enemies in +number 3 next to it, the soldier thus enclosed between his king and the +enemy is killed. If four of the enemy gain possession of the four +squares marked 2, thus enclosing the king, he becomes their prisoner. + +11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy in each of the adjoining squares, +_a_, _A_ and 3, he is likewise taken. + +12. Whenever the king is thus taken or imprisoned, the war is over, and +the conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the conquered party resigning all +the Muscovites that he had taken. + + * * * * * + +The Laplanders use the middle bark of the elm for dressing their +reindeer skins, but merely by chewing it, and rubbing their saliva on +the skins. + +They also tan with birch bark, but do not suffer the skins to remain +long under the operation, which they say would render them rotten and +apt to rend, neither can they spare them very long. + +White _walmal_ cloth is procured from Russia, but for want thereof they +commonly wear a light grey cloth of the same kind. + +Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir in the following manner. Choosing +the most slender roots, they scrape off the bark, while fresh, with the +back of a knife, holding the roots against the thigh. Afterwards each +root is first split with the knife into three or four parts, which are +then by degrees separated into a number of very slender fibres; and +these, being wrapped round the hand like a skain of thread, are tied +together. They are then boiled in a kettle for an hour or two, with a +considerable quantity of wood ashes. While still soft from this boiling, +they are laid across the knee, and scraped three or four times over with +a knife. At last they are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots serve in +like manner to afford cordage for the Laplanders, but more rarely. The +latter are more generally used, without being split, for basket-work. +For various articles of furniture the roots of _Tall_ (Scotch Fir, +_Pinus sylvestris_) are cut into small boards. The wood of that tree +serves for inferior kinds of work, and, amongst other things, for +cheese-vats. + +The Laplanders scrape with a knife the young and tender stalks of the +plant called _Jerja_, (_Sonchus alpinus_, _Sm. Plant. Ic._ _t._ 21.) and +eat them as a delicacy, like those of the great _Angelica_ (_A. +Archangelica_), which in the first year of their growth are termed +_Fatno_. + +A Laplander always places himself at the further part of his hut, and +his guest is seated next to him on a skin spread on purpose. The master +of the hut is by this means enabled to reach the vessel in which water +is kept for drink, and which always stands in the upper part of the hut. + +The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual stream both summer and winter. Now +if, according to the general opinion, the water of this river were +derived from exhalations of the great ocean, collected by the alps of +this country, it should cease to run when all the alpine tracts are +frozen. The stream must therefore be constantly fed by neighbouring +springs. + +The names by which the Laplanders distinguish the several times of the +day or night are as follows. + +Midnight is called in their language _kaskia_. The remainder of the +night before dawn, _pojela kaskia_. The morning dawn, _theleeteilyja_. +Sun-rise, _peivimorotak_. Two or three hours after sun-rise, _areiteet_. +The hour of milking the reindeer, which is about 8 or 9 o'clock, +_arrapeivi_. Noon, or dinner time, _kaskapeivi_. About 5 or 6 o'clock in +the afternoon, _eketis peivi_. Sunset, _peiveliti_. Night, _iä_. + +The days of the week are named as follows. + + Sunday, _Sotno peivi_. + + Monday, _Mannutaka_. + + Tuesday, _Tistaka_. + + Wednesday, _Kaska vacku_, or middle of the week. + + Thursday, _Tourestaka_. + + Friday, _Perietaka_. + + Saturday, _Lavutaka_. + +They have no names for the months, but certain weeks are distinguished +by the following appellations. + + Midsummer week, _Midtsomarvacku_. + + St. Peter's week, June 29, _Pelasmassu vacku_. + + Goose week, _Gassa vacku_. + + In the middle of the summer, _Gaskakis_. + + St. Margaret's, July 20, _Marcrit_. + + St. Olaus' mass, July 29, _Vollis_. + + (No date mentioned here.) _Vehak_. + + St. Laurence, Aug. 10, _Lauras_. + + Reindeer-fawn week, _Orryk_. When in a fawn two years old the horns + begin to bud. + + St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, _Barti_. + + (No date.) _Hoppmil_. + + St. Mary, Sept. 8, _Margi_. + + Holy Cross, Sept. 14, _Behawis_. + + St. Matthew, Sept. 21, _Matthus_. + + St. Michael, Sept. 29, _Michel_. + + (St. Faith, Oct. 6?) _Perkit_. + + (Middle of Oct.) _Talvi_. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed figure represents a Laplander's staff. It is tipped with a +blade of iron, as thick as the thumb. With this weapon he attacks the +bear and wolf in the time of deep snow. On the lower part of the shaft +is a sort of hoop, six inches in diameter, made of root of fir, and +fastened with thongs of reindeer skin, one of which passes through a +hole in the staff. At the bottom it is mounted with iron. The use of +this hoop is to prevent the staff from sinking into the snow, when used +as a walking-stick. The shaft itself, made of birch wood, is about four +feet long, and an inch and half thick. + +[Illustration] + +This sketch is taken from one of their snow shoes, made of wood. Its +length is six feet, from h to i; breadth, from k to g, five inches. The +hind part, i, is rather more obtuse than the other end, h, which last is +elevated about two or three inches. From h it gradually widens to f. The +part from c to d, where the foot stands, is about eight inches; its +breadth three. The under part of the shoe is convex, and furrowed +lengthwise; the upper flattish, raised about ten lines, and the edge all +round is sharp. At b is a band, made of fir root twisted, serving to tie +the shoe fast round the ancle. The general thickness of the shoe +throughout is from three to four lines. + +Some people wear a pair of the same size; others have the left shoe +smaller than the right. Each is often lined or covered, about the +central part, with a piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent the foot +slipping about upon the shoe, and give a firmer step in walking over the +snow. This is most practised in Kimi-Lapmark, where the wild reindeer +are most abundant. + +The Lapland thread is made out of the tendons of reindeer fawns half a +year old. Such thread is covered with tin foil for embroidery, its +pliability rendering it peculiarly fit for the purpose. The tendons are +dried in the sun, being hung over a stick. They are never boiled. + +To show to what a high degree of perfection these people have arrived in +the art of making such thread, I brought away a sample of it, which I +believe none of our ladies could match. + +Shoes and baskets made of birch bark are used both in Angermanland and +Helsingland, as well as ropes of the same material, which will not sink +in water, but these are not in general use. + +The bows which serve the Laplanders for shooting squirrels are composed +of two different kinds of wood, laid parallel to each other. The +innermost is birch, the outermost of what they term _kior_, _kioern_ or +_tioern_. (This is procured from a tree of the Common Fir, _Pinus +sylvestris_, that happens to grow in a curved form, usually in marshy +places, or on the banks of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard +like box: see _vol._ i. _p._ 255; also _Fl. Lapp. n._ 346, λ.) If this +be not practised, the bows are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood is +externally convex, yet not so much as to render the bow quite +cylindrical. + +When the Laplanders expect any visitors, they are particularly careful +to have plenty of _ris_ (branches of the dwarf birch) spread on the +floor, under the reindeer skins on which they sit; otherwise they would +be thought deficient in civility, and the mistress of the family would +be censured as a bad manager, when the guests returned to their own +homes. + +The mode of their entertainment is as follows. + +First, if the stranger arrives before their meat is set over the fire to +boil, they present him either with iced milk, or with some kind of +berries mixed with milk, or perhaps with cheese, or with _kappi_, (see +_vol._ i. _p._ 281.) Afterwards, when the meat is sufficiently cooked, +and they have taken it out of the pot, they put into the water, in which +it has been boiled, slices of cheese made of reindeer milk. This is a +testimony of hospitality, and that they are disposed to make their guest +as welcome as they can. They next serve up some of their dry or solid +preparations of milk. + +The marriages of the Laplanders are conducted in the following manner. +(This subject was treated in _vol._ i. _p._ 276, like Sterne's "history +of the king of Bohemia and his seven castles," no doubt to the great +dismay of the curious reader. We ought to have warned him of its being +resumed in a subsequent part of the work, but in truth we had not then +ourselves proceeded so far in deciphering the original manuscript.) + +1. In the first place the lover addresses his favourite fair-one in a +joking manner, to try whether his proposal be likely to prove acceptable +or not. Perhaps he even goes so far as to speak once or twice to her +father upon the subject. He then takes his leave, either fixing a time +for his return, or not, as it may happen. + +2. The lover next takes with him such of his nearest relations as live +in the neighbourhood, who, as well as himself, all carry provisions with +them, to the hut of his mistress, he going last in the procession. + +3. When the party arrive at the place of their destination, they all, +except the lover, walk in. If there happen to be any other huts near at +hand, it is usual for the damsel to retire to one of them, that she may +not be obliged to hear the conversation of the visitors. Her admirer +either remains on the outside of the door, amongst the reindeer, or goes +into some neighbouring hut. There are usually two or three spokesmen in +the party, the principal of whom is called _Sugnovivi_. When they are +all seated, the young man's father first presents some brandy to the +father of the young woman; upon which the latter asks why he treats him +with brandy? The former replies, "I am come hither with a good +intention, and I wish to God that it may prosper." He then declares his +errand. If the other party should not be favourably inclined to the +proposal, he rejects it, at the same time thanking the person who made +it. Upon this, all who are present endeavour to prevail upon him to give +his consent to the marriage. If they succeed, or in case the offer has +from the first been accepted, the friends of the lover fetch whatever +they have brought along with them, consisting of various utensils, and +silver coin, which they place on a reindeer skin, spread in the hut, +before the father and mother of the intended bride. The father or the +mother of the bridegroom then distributes the money between the young +woman and her parents. If the sum be thought too small, the latter ask +for more, and it frequently happens that much time is spent in +bargaining, before they can come to a conclusion. When the parties +concerned cannot obtain so large a sum as they think themselves entitled +to, they often reject the whole, and return the money to those who +brought it. But if, on the contrary, matters are brought to a favourable +conclusion, the parents allow their daughter to be sent for. Two of the +bridegroom's relations undertake this office. If the bride has any +confidential female friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm together; +and in this case the mother of the bridegroom is required to make a +present of a few brass rings, or something of that kind, to this friend +or sister, who keeps lamenting the loss of her companion. + +When the bride enters the hut, her father asks whether she is satisfied +with what he has done? To which she replies, that she submits herself to +the disposal of her father, who is the best judge of what is proper for +her. The mother of the bridegroom then presents the bride with the sum +allotted for her, laying it in her lap. If it proves less than she had +expected, she shows her dissatisfaction by various gestures, and signs +of refusal, in which case she may possibly obtain at least the promise +of a larger sum. All these gifts become her own property. + +When such pecuniary matters are finally arranged, the father and mother +of the bridegroom present him and his bride with a cup of brandy, of +which they partake together, and then all the company shake hands. They +afterwards take off their caps, and one of the company makes an +oration, praying for God's blessing upon the new-married couple, and +returning thanks to him who "gives every man his own wife, and every +woman her own husband." + +The parents of the bridegroom next partake of some brandy, and the whole +stock of that liquor which they had brought with them is fetched for the +company. + +All the relations of the bridegroom then come forward with their +provisions, which generally consist of several cheeses, and a piece of +meat dried and salted. The latter is roasted before the fire, while the +company is, in the mean while, regaled with some of the solid +preparations of milk, the bride and bridegroom eating by themselves, +apart from the rest. + +Two stewards are next chosen, one of them from the bride's party, the +other from that of the bridegroom. The last-mentioned party are then +required to furnish a quantity of raw meat, amounting to about a pound +and half to each person. This the stewards immediately set about +boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve it round to all present. +This meat is dressed in several separate pots, two only in each hut, if +there be any neighbours whose huts can serve to accommodate the party on +this occasion; for each Laplander has never more than one hut of his +own. The fat part of the broth is first served up in basons. Afterwards +various petticoats or blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on the +floor, by way of a table-cloth, on which the boiled meat is placed. The +chief persons of the company then, as many as can find room, take their +places in the hut of the bride's family, sitting down round the +provision, while the children and inferiors are accommodated in the +neighbouring huts. Grace is then said. The bride and bridegroom are +placed near together, for the most part close to the door, or place of +entrance. They are always helped to the best of the provision. The +company then serve themselves, taking their meat on the points of their +knives, and dipping each morsel into some of the fat broth, in which +the whole has been boiled, before they put it into their mouths. Numbers +of people assemble from the neighbourhood, to look in upon the company +through the door; and as they expect to share in the feast, the stewards +give them two or three bits of meat, according as they respect them more +or less. What remains after every body is satisfied, is put together, +and wrapped up in the blankets or cloths, that part of it which is left +by the new-married couple being kept separate from the rest, as no other +person is allowed to partake of their share. The dinner being over, the +whole company shake hands and return thanks for their entertainment. +They always shake hands with the bride and bridegroom in the first +place, and then with the rest, saying at the same time _kusslăn_. + +After taking some brandy, the whole party go to bed. The herd of +reindeer had been turned out to pasture from the time when the meat was +put into the pot. The bride and bridegroom sleep together with their +clothes on. + +When the company rise in the morning, if the bridegroom's father and +their party have any thing left, they treat the others with it; for the +family of the bride have seldom any preparation made, not expecting, or +not being supposed to expect, such company, and they never keep any +brandy by them, but purchase it for every occasion. Whatever cold meat +therefore remains is brought forward, to which the bride's party indeed +add cheese, and any other preparation of milk they may have in store, as +well as any dried meat; such things being usually kept by them. With +these the party regale themselves by way of breakfast. Afterwards the +family of the bride boil some fresh meat, as a final repast for their +guests, who, after partaking of it, take their leave. + +The banns are usually published once. The marriage ceremony, which is +very short, is performed after the above-mentioned company is departed. +This being over, the bridegroom either takes his wife immediately home +with him, or he goes to his own hut alone, and stays there from one to +five days, after which he returns to her residence, bringing with him +his herd of reindeer, and stays there for some time with her. + +Such of the Laplanders as are rich enough to afford it, make their wives +a present of a coverlet; a petticoat made of cloth, without any gathers, +as usual among these people; a small silver beaker or cup; several +rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon, &c.; so that many a bride costs +her husband more than a hundred dollars, copper money. To the mother he +perhaps gives a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat. + +I have already mentioned that the Laplanders eat _Angelica_ +(_sylvestris_) in a raw state. This plant, which the inhabitants of +Westbothland call _Bioernstut_, has so many names among the Laplanders, +according to the different stages of its growth, as to cause much +confusion to a stranger. The first year of its growth they term the root +_Urtas_, and the leaves _Fadno_; but the second year the plant is known +by the name of _Posco_ or _Botsk_. When the stalk is dried, or eaten +raw, they call it _Rasi_, that is, grass. They say, when any one has +eaten more of this plant than is good for him, "_Elli rasi ist purro +etnach_," the meaning of which is, "Thou hast overloaded thyself with +such a quantity of grass." + +Another herb of which they are very fond is the Sowthistle with a simple +stem, known by the name of _Jerja_. (_Sonchus alpinus._ _Fl. Lapp ed._ +2. 240. _Sm. Pl. Ic. t._ 21. _S. lapponicus._ _Willd. Sp. Pl._ _v._ 3. +1520.) This has a perennial root. The stem is erect, round, green, +smooth, except a few soft scattered hairs, which are most remarkable +towards the top and bottom, and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves about +twelve or fourteen, half clasping the stem, gradually smaller upwards, +nearly the shape of Dandelion, or of the common Sowthistle, one half of +each leaf, consisting of the terminal lobe, making exactly an acute +triangle, toothed at the edges; from that part downwards the leaf +contracts, but not to the main rib, and then again expands into two +narrow appendages, as it were, equal in breadth, but unequal in length, +which are crenate at their edges. From thence begins the stalk of the +leaf, which is winged and toothed, and half embraces the stem. The +leaves are thin and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper side, and the +upper ones are the least divided, as well as the bluntest. The flowers +are collected into a corymbus, somewhat like Butterbur, but more +loosely, especially in the lower part, each supported by a very short +stalk, accompanied by a very narrow oblong leaf which extends beyond the +flower. The calyx consists of several oblong, narrow, acute, imbricated +leaves, varying in number from fourteen to twenty, the outermost +gradually shortest, but the ten innermost are equal in length, and +blunter than the rest, composing two rows; the calyx altogether is +shorter than the corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Florets equal in +number to the leaves of the calyx. Germen short, square, crowned with +long white radiating down. Petal flat, cut away on one side, +violet-coloured, five-toothed. Stamens five, white, their apex (anther) +cylindrical, five-sided, white, marked with five blue lines. Pistil one, +forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dotted. This plant grows among +trees at the sides of mountains, along with the narrow-hooded Aconite +(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), flowering at the end of July or beginning of +August. The stem, which is milky, is eaten by the Laplanders in the same +manner as Angelica. The taste was to me very bitter, but the people of +the country do not find it so, though they confessed that it appeared +bitter to them when they first learned to eat it. As soon as the plant +shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody, and no longer eatable. + +The sinews of which the fine thread is made that, when covered with tin, +serves for embroidery, and is called _tentråd_ (tin-thread), are taken +from the feet of the reindeer, or of oxen, boiled; though sometimes the +feet of sea-fowl are chosen for this purpose. Old women and girls are +employed in preparing this thread, by drawing it through holes made in a +piece of reindeer's horn. They wind it round their hands and feet as +they form it, and smear it with fat extracted from the foot of the +animal, to make it more supple, as they proceed. + +Hay is made in different modes in various parts of Sweden. In +Westbothland the fresh-cut grass is heaped together over night, that it +may get a heat. Next day it is spread out, and by this method its +quality is supposed to become richer and stronger. The same is practised +with hops in Jamtland, where the fresh-gathered hops are packed +together, as hard as possible, till they become warm; after which they +are spread out to dry. Their strength is by this means improved. + +The people of Scania having mowed their grass, let it lie till dry, when +they rake it together. + +The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed. + +The East Gothlanders range it in heaps, two and two together, in a long +row. + +In Upland the new-mown grass is tied up in bundles, and collected into +cocks. + +In Angermannia the whole year's crop is laid by upon a kind of raised +floor. + +In Westbothland, after being dried in the shed, the hay is kept there +for use, being laid crosswise, and cut when wanted[4]. + + +_July 23._ + +This evening I took leave of the alpine part of Lapland, and returned +by water from Hyttan towards Lulea. + +The White, or Mountain, Fox (_Canis lagopus_) lives among the alps, +feeding on the Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, (_Mus Lemmus_,) as well as on +the Ptarmigan (_Tetrao Lagopus_). This White Fox is smaller than the +common kind. The Ptarmigan, which the Laplanders call _Cheruna_, feeds +on the Dwarf Birch (_Betula nana_), which for that reason is called +_Ryprys_, or Ptarmigan-bush. At night this bird lies squat upon the +snow, in the same posture as the Wood Grous (_Tetrao Urogallus_, see +_vol._ 1. 179): hence a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints it +makes in the snow. This mode of roosting renders the Ptarmigan an easy +prey to the Fox. + +The Lemming or Red Mouse, see _p._ 18, (_Mus Lemmus_,) in some seasons +entirely overruns the country; devouring the corn and grass: but though +these animals thus occasionally appear by millions at a time, they +subsequently depart and disappear as unaccountably, so that nobody knows +what becomes of them. They do no mischief in the houses. + +The Ermine (_Mustela Erminea_) is white in winter, red in summer. This +animal is seldom met with on the alps, but is very plentiful in the +forests. Foxes and Wolves have destroyed the chief of the Hares. The +Wolves indeed kill the Foxes. + +The Shrew Mouse (_Sorex araneus_) and Common Small Mouse (_Mus +Musculus_) are found in Lapmark, but no Rats (_Mus Rattus_). + +Hunting the Bear is often undertaken by a single man, who, having +discovered the retreat of the animal, takes his dog along with him and +advances towards the spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round with a +cord, to prevent his barking, and the man holds the other end of this +cord in his hand. As soon as the dog smells the bear, he begins to show +signs of uneasiness, and by dragging at the cord informs his master that +the object of his pursuit is at no great distance. When the Laplander +by this means discovers on which side the bear is stationed, he advances +in such a direction that the wind may blow from the bear to him, and not +the contrary; for otherwise the animal would by the scent be aware of +his approach, though not able to see an enemy at any considerable +distance, being half blinded by the sunshine. When he has gradually +advanced to within gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him; and this is +the more easily accomplished in autumn, as the bear is then more +fearless, and is continually prowling about for berries of different +kinds, on which he feeds at that season of the year. Should the man +chance to miss his aim, the furious beast will directly turn upon him in +a rage, and the little Laplander is obliged to take to his heels with +all possible speed, leaving his knapsack behind him on the spot. The +bear coming up with this, seizes upon it, biting and tearing it into a +thousand pieces. While he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all +his attention, upon the knapsack, the Laplander takes the opportunity +of loading his gun, and firing a second time; when he is generally sure +of hitting the mark, and the bear either falls upon the spot or runs +away. + + +_July 24._ + +In the huts of this neighbourhood I observed an instrument which I had +no where noticed before, consisting of an oblong board, placed +transversely at the end of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while +boiling. + +Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the west, and on the south of the +mountain of Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but hardly worth +working while the roads, by which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are in +so bad a state. + +This night I beheld a star, for the first time since I came within the +arctic circle. Nevertheless the darkness was not considerable enough to +prevent my reading or writing whatever I pleased. + +One of the Laplanders had caught a quantity of the fish called +_Sikloja_ (_Salmo Albula_) of a large size. He stuck about twenty of +them on one spit, the back of each being placed towards the belly of the +next, and they were thus roasted before the fire. These fish had +previously been dried, though not at all salted. + +The glue used by the Laplanders for joining the two portions of +different woods of which their bows are made (see _p._ 66,) is prepared +from the Common Perch (_Perca fluviatilis_) in the following manner. +Some of the largest of this fish being flayed, the skins are first +dried, and afterwards soaked in a small quantity of cold water, so that +the scales can be rubbed off. Four or five of these skins being wrapped +up together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch bark, so that no water +can get at them, are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil, a stone +being laid over the pot, to keep in the heat. The skins thus prepared +make a very strong glue, insomuch that the articles joined with it will +never separate again. A bandage is tied round the bow while making, to +hold the two parts the more firmly together. + +When these people undertake a short journey only, they carry no bag for +provisions, the latter being stored between their outer and inner +jackets, which are always bound with a girdle, being wide, and formed of +numerous folds, both above and below it. + +The Purple Willow-herb, or _Epilobium_ (_angustifolium_?) made the +fields at this time very beautiful. The Golden-rod (_Solidago +Virgaurea_) was likewise here in blossom, though not yet upon the alps, +where it flowers later. + +I have never yet seen any animal swim so light as the reindeer. During +the dogdays the herds of reindeer, belonging to the inhabitants of the +woody parts of Lapland, are very badly off for want of snow, with which +those animals refresh themselves in hot weather upon the alps. Hence +they constitute a more valuable and thriving property to the alpine +Laplanders than to any others. In the winter time, when the favourite +Lichen of the reindeer (_L. rangiferinus_) cannot be got at, their +keepers fell trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to serve them for +food; but it scarcely proves sufficient. + +The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a very white appearance, as if milk +had been mixed with it. This the inhabitants term _kalkwatter_, or +lime-water, from the colour, not from any knowledge of its cause or +origin. This rivulet they told me came from the alps. It empties itself +into the great river near Kiomitis, and renders the water of that river +white for the space of four or five miles. I noticed a similar +phænomenon at Wirijaur. + +I was amused with the mode in which these Laplanders take brandy. After +they have laid hold of the mug, they dip their forefingers into the +liquor, and rub a little on their foreheads, as well as on the middle of +their bosoms. On inquiring the reason, I was told their intention was +that the brandy might not prove hurtful either to the head or breast. + +Some people here were regaling themselves with fresh fish, of the kind +lately mentioned (_Salmo Albula_), which having boiled into a mass like +pap or flummery, they were eating out of their hands. + +The dress of the Laplanders is, in one particular at least, very wisely +contrived. Their thick collars effectually protect the throat and +breast, which being furnished with numerous nerves and small muscles, +and being the seat of the windpipe and of many principal veins and +arteries, are very important and susceptible parts. The neck moreover, +from its slender shape, is peculiarly exposed to cold. Hence the +protection of clothing is found very necessary to the parts in question. +For want of it our young women suffer much injury, which our youths +avoid by running into the contrary extreme of tying their neckcloths so +tight as to make themselves as red in the face as if they were half +strangled. + +We Swedes are accustomed to have all our clothing made very tight. Not +only the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat, breeches, stockings, +sleeves, &c., must all stick close to the body, and the tighter they are +the more fashionable. The Laplanders, on the contrary, wear only two, +and those slight, bandages about them, which moreover are broad, and +therefore less injurious than a narrow bandage in any part. Those to +which I allude are the waistband and knees of their breeches, both made +sufficiently loose and easy. + +To-day I gathered the following plants.--A reed-like panicled Grass, +with a very slender branched stem. (This appears to have been _Arundo +Calamagrostis_, _Fl. Lapp._ _n._ 42.) + +A great aquatic _Carex_, with inflated, whitish, pendulous spikes. In +more dry situations they were upright and shorter, but in every other +particular the same. (_C. vesicaria._) A grass with a slender +dark-coloured panicle, approaching the stem. (_Agrostis rubra_, _Fl. +Lapp._ _n._ 46.) + + +_July 25._ + +The lakes in this part of the country did not afford me so many plants +as further south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and destitute of +vegetation. Their shores were no less barren. No Water-lilies +(_Nymphææ_), no Water-docks, &c., (different species of _Rumex_,) grew +about their borders, but the surface of the water itself was covered +with the Water Ranunculus (_R. aquatilis_), bearing round as well as +capillary leaves, and whitening the whole with its blossoms. I could not +but wonder to see these broad patches of white spread over the lakes, +though, when I passed up the country but a fortnight before, I had not +perceived the least appearance of even the herbage of the _Ranunculus_ +that composed them. Now its branches, an ell in length, swam on the +surface. The growth of the stem must be very rapid, as it often +proceeded from a depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants thrown up on +the shore had capillary leaves, as are all those which grow under the +water. The root resembles that of the _Iris_. + +I noticed also the Pondweed with leaves clasping the stem (_Potamogeton +perfoliatum_, rare in Lapland); and a very large branched floating +Water-grass, with cylindrical spikes, which I hesitate whether to +separate from the _Gramen aquaticum geniculatum spicatum_, (of Bauhin +and Rudbeck. _Alopecurus geniculatus_ of Linnæus. The grass of which he +here speaks is _n._ 38 of his _Flora Lapponica._ _A. geniculatus_ β, +_Sp. Pl._ 89.) + +The annexed figure represents the Norwegian cross-bow, used for shooting +squirrels, which it will hit at the distance of twenty or thirty paces +as certainly as a gun. + +It was curious to observe the dexterity with which one of the +Laplanders hit a small fly, which I had set up for a mark, at the +distance of thirty paces. + +[Illustration] + +The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is two feet and a half long, two +inches wide in the middle, gradually sloping off to the extremities, +which are only one inch in width. Each end is rounded, with a notch, +where the cord is fixed, which, when the bow is drawn, seems in danger +of immediately slipping off, but it never does. The whole bow when at +rest makes a curve of two inches; when strongly bent it forms one of +seven. + +The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is made of twisted hemp, as thick +as one's finger, bound round with hempen thread, especially in the +middle, where it is to receive the bolt. + +The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented with inlaid work of bone, is two +feet and a half long, and half a palm broad, being half an inch thick +towards the top, and an inch at the base. Its upper side is entirely +covered with the above-mentioned inlaying, and quite even or flat, +except towards the base or handle, where it is slightly concave. + +The part marked d on the bow, and D on a larger scale annexed, is the +catch, like a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and in the side of +which is a projection, with a rectangular notch, see _fig._ 1 and 2. +When the bow is bent, the angle at _fig._ 2 catches the cord, and is let +go by means of the apparatus represented at c, c, by the side. + +As no human being is sufficiently strong to draw this bow with the hands +alone, a strap of leather is fixed round the loins, ending in two iron +hooks, which lay hold of the cord. One foot is put into the strap at the +top of the bow, h, and then, by the exertion of the body, the bow is +drawn till the cord catches the angle of the pulley D. + +[Illustration] + +The annexed cut represents the bolt of this Norwegian crossbow, which is +a foot and half long, an inch thick. From the extremity, which is +thicker and blunt, to the feathered part, is about a foot. The feathers, +taken from the wing of the great Grous or Cock of the wood, (_Tetrao +Urogallus_,) are stripped from the quill, and placed erect in three +longitudinal rows; and after being bound on with thread, the part by +which they are attached is smeared with pitch, to fix them the more +firmly. The whole bolt is made of birch wood. Its base is compressed, +naked and smooth, formed with a groove to receive the bow-string. + +This more finished and elaborate sort of bow is principally used in +Westbothnia. The whole cost of one, with all its appurtenances, amounts +to fifteen dollars, copper money. The Laplanders therefore content +themselves with a far more rude and simple apparatus, consisting of such +a wooden bow made of birch, as I have already described, with a string +fitted to it. Or they merely cut a branch of fir in the forest, and with +any bit of cord that happens to come in their way, kill abundance of +squirrels, holding the bow with their left hand, and drawing it with +their right by means of a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I have +witnessed, take successful aim at the _Emberiza nivalis_, or Snow +Bunting, sitting on the tops of the most lofty pines. + +It is commonly reported that no clay is to be found in Lapland, but I +met with some in two different places; in each instance indeed it was at +the bottom of a lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask, the shores +being of sand though the bottom was clay. + +Nets are set in the lakes in winter to catch the Sijk fish (_Salmo +Lavaretus_, or Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose in the ice, +and the nets are dragged with a string. This is done from St. Andrew's +day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas. + +The Laplanders make their sledges serve for chests, when they are not +used for their proper purpose, by constructing a sort of roof or convex +covering, with an opening in the middle, to admit whatever they choose +to store up within. This opening shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in +this state occasionally serve for the conveyance of goods from one place +to another, the covering keeping them dry. + +Caps are made of the skin of the _Colymbus arcticus_, (Black-throated +Diver,) which is very tough when properly prepared. This bird has a grey +ring round its neck, as described by Wormius. + +I met with a _Carex_, bearing round capsules, full of black powder. +(Probably _Carex panicea_, whose seeds are often infected with the +_ustilago_ or smut.) + + +_July 26._ + +I shall here give a description of the _Achier_ or sledge. This is a +kind of travelling machine invented by the Laplanders, drawn along the +ground like other sledges, and made of birch wood. The back part is +upright, or nearly so, the lower part only being somewhat sloping +inwards, and its form is roundish, the height a foot, the breadth a foot +and a half. The body of the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with an +obtuse keel, and consists of five longitudinal boards on each side, +lying one over the edge of another; that which forms the keel being +about an inch thick, and lying flat like the others. Each board is not +externally plane, but convex, so that as the carriage is drawn over the +snow it leaves several tracks or lines where it goes, the board which +forms the keel only being quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at one +extremity in a circular manner to the roundish board that makes the +back, (or as it were the stern,) are collected by their points at the +other, and all bound together with a rope, for there are no nails to +fasten them. The whole carriage is six feet in length, and from the back +part to within two feet of the front its breadth is all the way about +four feet. From that spot the keel begins to curve upwards, and the +transverse dimensions are contracted gradually to a point. This sledge +is drawn by a rope that goes through a hole in the front of the keel. +The edges or sides of the machine do not curve outwards, but rather +inwards. When any covering is to be put on, which is always done in part +when any person is to travel sitting in this carriage, and entirely, +from one end to the other, when it is intended to be used for the +conveyance of goods, two or three semicircular or archlike bows are +erected, fixed by their ends within the edges of the carriage, which +serve to support a covering of seal-skin, or cloth, whose margin next +the back is loose, and so far distant from that part as to allow the +traveller to sit upright, his legs lying under the cover, while the said +margin is tied round his waist, like an apron, serving to keep the snow +out of the hollow part of the machine. The person of the traveller is +further secured by strings fixed to the edges of the carriage, which +lace around him across the top, so as to prevent his being thrown out by +any oblique or unexpected movement. Each board, which composes the body +of the sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside, but still the whole +internal surface is sufficiently smooth and even. The point in front +sometimes projects a foot beyond the hollow part[5]. + +It is worthy of notice that the Laplanders use no almanack, but in its +stead only a kind of instrument like the ancient runic calendar of the +Goths, composed of seven small splinters or boards. They have indeed +names to mark some periods, as already mentioned p. 62; but they do not, +like us, compute time by the month, but by the course of their various +holidays. They have also a name for every week. They are unable to tell +when an eclipse of the sun or moon is to be expected. The year begins, +by their reckoning, on the Friday before Christmas day. + +The people in the part of the country where I was now travelling wear, +in summertime, either a coat of walmal cloth next the skin, or no coat +at all, only a _lappmudd_ as they call it, (or garment of +reindeer-skin,) stripped of its hair. + +At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where we in vain attempted to procure a +boat. We had no resource but to make ourselves a float or raft, on which +we committed our persons and all our property to the guidance of the +current of the river. The night proved very dark in consequence of a +thick fog, insomuch that we could not see before us to the distance of +three fathoms. After a while we found ourselves in the middle of the +stream, and it was not long before the force of the water separated the +timbers of our raft, and we were in imminent danger of our lives. At +length however, with the greatest difficulty, we reached a house +situated on an island, after a voyage of half a mile from where we +embarked[6]. + +At Purkijaur I hired a man to show me the manner of fishing for pearls, +for which I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made a raft of five +timbers as thick as my body, and two fathoms in length. At each end was +a staple to which the anchor was attached. This anchor was nothing more +than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch that it might not be lost, +to which he fastened a cord, about two fathoms in length, made of birch +twigs. He was likewise furnished with a pole of the same length, which +served him to steer his raft, as it floated along the strong current. +The bottom of the river is not easily seen at any great depth; but when +he could distinctly perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor, fixing the +upper end of the rope to the staple on the raft, by which it became +stationary. Whenever he wished to examine another spot, he weighed +anchor, and resigned himself to the force of the current. Where the +water was shallow, he stood upright on his raft; but where the depth was +considerable, he lay at full length, with his face downwards, looking +over the edge of the raft. + +By means of a pair of wooden pincers, two fathoms in length, he laid +hold of the pearl oysters (rather muscles, _Mya margaritifera_,) and +drew them up. The part of the pincers below the joint or hinge was about +a span long, and of three fingers breadth, hollowed out at the points, +one of which was curved, the other flat. Taking the other end of these +pincers in his hands, he easily directed them to the spot where he saw +the shells lying. + +The latter were generally open, so that they might readily be discerned +by the whiteness of their inside; but when the water is very much +agitated, the animals immediately close their shells, though destitute +of eyes or ears. + +The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong, with a contraction, or +shallow notch as it were, about the middle of their outer margin. The +man opened them by means of a whilk shell, which he thrust with violence +between the valves, for it is impossible to effect this with the finger +only. He introduced the point of the whilk in the centre of the base, or +broader end, of the muscle, searching for the pearls chiefly towards the +other end, on the inside of the valve. If the inside of the latter be +white, the pearl is white; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is of the +same colour. + +When it was first discovered that this neighbourhood produced pearls, +the river at Purkijaur was the place where the principal pearl-fishery +was established. But now it is nearly exhausted. When the discovery of +this bed of pearl muscles was first made, it is said the shells were in +such abundance that nobody could reach the bottom of them, which is far +from being the case at present. + +There is no external sign about the shell, by which it is possible to +know whether it contains a pearl or not. Consequently many thousands are +destroyed to no purpose before one pearl is found. It is also a great +pity that all the muscles are killed in consequence of this examination. +Each pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose. They are found at +all seasons of the year, and are sometimes thrown out of the shell +spontaneously by its inhabitant. + +I witnessed at this place what appeared to me a very extraordinary +phenomenon, a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was found a young duck +entire. The peasant who was my companion told me he had many times seen +the same thing. + + +_July 27._ + +The reindeer fed with evident avidity on the great water Horsetail +(_Equisetum fluviatile_), which the Laplanders call _Aske_, though it +was in a dry state, and though they will not eat common hay. How +unaccountably negligent are the Laplanders, not to collect in the +course of summer a stack of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_) for winter fodder! They would then have some provision +for the herd, when the country is covered with an impenetrable crust of +frozen snow, and not hazard the loss of all they are worth in the world. + +The inhabitants of Westbothnia, to defend themselves against the bites +of gnats, besmear their skin with a mixture of tar and fish-grease, or +some other kind of fat. They keep this composition in a horn which hangs +at their side. The Laplanders however give themselves no trouble about +any such matter. + +In order to add to the pungency of the tobacco which they are in the +habit of chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the root of _Angelica_. +(_A. Archangelica_ is preferred, but when that is not at hand, the +_sylvestris_ is used, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_.) + +The women wear their belts in the same manner as the men, except when +they are big with child, in which case the belt must necessarily be +placed much higher than ordinary. + +This day I found the little heart-leaved _Ophrys_ (_O. cordata_) +growing, as it usually does, amongst the _Rubus Chamæmorus_, whilst I +was gathering the fruit of the latter. Also the least _Pinguicula_ (_P. +villosa_); but its leaves were withered, and the fruit was ripe, which +is heartshaped and emarginate, of two valves and one cell. The +last-mentioned plant grew among White-moss (_Sphagnum palustre._ These +specimens are still preserved in the Linnæan herbarium.) + +The bird called (by the Swedes) Lappskata, Rödfogel in Westbothland, +Gvousach in Lapland, (_Corvus infaustus_, _Faun. Suec._ 32. _Lath. Ind._ +159. _Lanius infaustus_, _Syst. Nat._ _v._ 1. 138,) is of a small size, +but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it can find, being so far from +timid that it flew away with part of our provisions as we sat at table. +This bird seems nearly allied to the Jay (_Corvus glandarius_). + +It is only in winter the clothes of the Laplanders have any sort of +lining, except that these people generally wear, next the stomach, the +skin of a young reindeer fawn. The sleeves of their coats are not fixed +to the jacket, or body of the garment. The part which covers the +shoulder folds over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of a wedge. A +seam reaches the whole length of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each +side, the jacket becoming gradually wider, downward. It reaches as low +as the middle of the leg. The collar is for the most part blue, stitched +with white thread. + +The reindeer are not slaughtered in the same manner as cattle usually +are either at Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal being secured with a +halter, the Laplander takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax +behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the heart. By this means the blood +collects in the cavity of the thorax, none of it appearing externally. +After the skin is flayed off, the blood is found coagulated in the +thorax, from whence it is extracted, and bruised into a soft mass. With +this the poorer sort of people make a kind of soup, by boiling along +with it the brains of the animal, which the rich do not eat. The +testicles are never eaten by any sort of people. The _penis_ serves to +make a thong to draw the sledges. + +Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the forests go to the alps at +midsummer and return about St. Laurence's day (August 10th); and the +mountain Laplanders descend into the lower country between the first of +November and Christmas, and go back again about Lady-day. + +All kinds of clothing made of skins are sewed with sinews of animals, as +before described; but those of walmal cloth, with hempen thread +purchased from the neighbouring countries. + + +_July 28._ + +To-day I found the _Pseudo-helleborine_; (possibly _Cypripedium +Calceolus_, not before mentioned in this journal.) + +All the little rills and rivulets hereabouts produced a _Potamogeton_, +which I was doubtful whether to distinguish from the common kind, as it +varies excessively in appearance, but the leaves are more grassy. (_P. +gramineum_, as appears from the _Flora Lapponica_, yet nothing can be +less like the "common kind," if by the latter be meant the _natans_, +which, with the _perfoliatum_ and _gramineum_, compose the catalogue of +species in _Fl. Lapp._) + +Hereabouts grew the _Juncus_ with three seeds (_capsules_) at the top of +the stem, which also I observed to be sometimes reflexed. (_J. +triglumis_; see _Fl. Lapp._ ed. 2. 90.) + +Several days ago the forests had been set on fire by lightning, and the +flames raged at this time with great violence, owing to the drought of +the season. In many different places, perhaps in nine or ten that came +under my notice, the devastation extended several miles' distance. I +traversed a space three quarters of a mile in extent which was entirely +burnt, so that Flora, instead of appearing in her gay and verdant +attire, was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhorrent to my feelings +than to see her clad in the white livery of winter, for this, though it +destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in safety, which the fire does +not. The fire was nearly extinguished in most of the spots we visited, +except in ant-hills, and dry trunks of trees. After we had travelled +about half a quarter of a mile across one of these scenes of desolation, +the wind began to blow with rather more force than it had done, upon +which a sudden noise arose in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only +compare to what may be imagined among a large army attacked by an enemy. +We knew not whither to turn our steps. The smoke would not suffer us to +remain where we were, nor durst we turn back. It seemed best to hasten +forward, in hopes of speedily reaching the outskirts of the wood; but +in this we were disappointed. We ran as fast as we could, in order to +avoid being crushed by the falling trees, some of which threatened us +every minute. Sometimes the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden, that we +stood aghast, not knowing whither to turn to escape destruction, and +throwing ourselves entirely on the protection of Providence. In one +instance a large tree fell exactly between me and my guide, who walked +not more than a fathom from me, but, thanks to God! we both escaped in +safety. We were not a little rejoiced when this perilous adventure +terminated, for we had felt all the while like a couple of outlaws, in +momentary fear of surprise. + +I have long ago related my sufferings from gnats in the course of my +Lapland expedition. In this place I was still more incommoded by some +very small flies, about a line in length and very narrow. Their breast +was of a blueish grey. Front of the head whitish, with black eyes. +Wings pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and narrow. A white scale was +placed on each side at the insertion of the wings. The legs were black, +with a white joint in the middle of each, the base being speckled. The +hind part of the shoulders was whitish. _Antennæ_ simple, minute, +parallel, and pointing right forward. The wings lay one over the other +so as to resemble a single one, notched at the extremity, when the +insect was at rest. Each of us was beset by a whole legion of these +flies towards sun-set. What rendered them peculiarly troublesome was +their manner of running over the face, and flying into the nose, mouth +and eyes. When they were approaching in order to inflict their bite, +they were not to be driven away by our blowing ever so hard. The +Laplanders call these insects _Mockere_, alluding to the smallness of +their head; the Swedes _Knott_. (_Culex reptans._ Linnæus mentions in +the _Fauna Suecica_ the extremely tiresome noise made by these gnats in +their approach.) They covered our linen so as to render it quite black. +It was to no purpose to attempt to drive them away. (See _v._ 1. 208.) + +I visited the Laxholms, islands so called from the salmon fishery. Here +the Common Salmon (_Salmo Salar_, named _Lax_ by the Swedes,) is found +with the under jaw occasionally hooked, which variety is termed +_Kroklax_, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired whether this hooked kind was +esteemed a distinct species, or whether a difference arising from age; +to both which questions I was answered in the negative. I was shown fish +of the smallest size, which had in proportion as large a hook to the +lower jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore fallen into an error in +his dissertation upon salmon. (_Daniel Bonge_, _Dissertatio de Salmonum +naturâ_, _corumque apud Ostrobothnienses piscatione_, _Upsal._ 1730. +4to. under the presidency of Professor Roberg, with wooden cuts.) I +inquired whether the hooked salmon were furnished with roe or with milt. +I was answered that they had always milt. On opening seven of them I +found this verified, whereas four salmon which were not hooked had all +of them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon is so called, because the +point of its lower jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form, resembling +a finger; while on the contrary the upper is furnished with a cavity to +receive that point, embracing it like a sheath, for about half its +length. The female fish has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less +inflexed, there being only a very slight furrow in the upper one; so +that the two sexes may be distinguished from each other by these marks +from the earliest age. + +Those who fish for salmon come to this place about a fortnight before +midsummer, and remain till St. Bartholomew's day, August 24th, as during +that space of time the salmon keep ascending the river. After the day +last mentioned none of the fishermen remain. Few of the fish escape +being taken, so as to return down the river. At Michaelmas the fishermen +come here again, when they catch a smaller sort of salmon. + +This day I observed the harvest beginning. The corn now cutting, though +sown but a few days before midsummer, was nevertheless quite ripe. The +lent rye was not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the winter rye ripens +some time before the other corn. Thus it appears that corn (barley) +springs up and ripens at this place in the space of sixty days. + +In my walks I gathered the berries of the Strawberry-leaved Bramble +(_Rubus arcticus_), which proved delicious. They have somewhat of the +flavour of Blackberries (_Rubus fruticosus_), but are more agreeable. +This fruit does not separate from its calyx like other specie of its +genus. It is a compound berry, in size and structure somewhat between +what the Smolanders call _Kodden_ (_Rubus saxatilis_), and Raspberries +(_R. idæus_). Its colour is a brownish crimson. + +The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ is perennial, with scales, not +a fibrous tuft or beard, at the root[7]. The stem is round, not +quadrangular. Calyx five-cleft[8]. Lower lip regular, divided into three +equal segments. + +_Pedicularis_ with a purple head (_Bartsia alpina._ _Linn. Sp. Pl._ 839. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 361. _Euphrasia._ _Fl. Lapp. n._ 246.) shows an affinity +to the _Crista Galli_ (_Rhinanthus_) in its calyx, which is divided into +four equal acute segments. The fruit is ovate and acute, compressed at +the point. Lower lip straight. All the other _Pediculares_, except +_Sceptrum Carolinum_, have an oblique fruit. + +Here and there grew specimens of Heath (_Erica vulgaris_) with tufted +branches, looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very beautiful. + +The water of the river now began to decrease, in consequence of which it +became clearer, and it was more difficult to catch any fish. + +Scarcely any species of _Carex_ was to be found this season but what had +some degree of smut or _ustilago_ about its spikes, consisting of little +globular black bodies, changing to dust. + + +_July 29._ + +Tanning of leather is thus performed by the Laplanders. + +The scaly cuticle of the birch being first stripped off, the bark is +then scraped from the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about as long +a time as is requisite to boil fish; being afterwards set by to cool, to +a certain degree, that it may not injure the hide by being too hot. The +latter, having previously been scalded, by dipping into luke-warm water, +is then soaked in the decoction of bark, and the vessel containing it +sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the extremity of the hut. The +hide is taken out every day, and softened in luke-warm water, till the +hair becomes loose, when it is scraped off by such a knife as tanners +use. The skin is then replaced in the tan when cool, without any +previous drying, till the third day after the hair comes off, when it is +hung up to dry in the shade. When the leather is but half dry, they +often cut it up for shoes, which are always made by the women, without +any last. The thread used for the purpose is that made of tendons. + +Some persons never scald the hide, but scrape off the hair with a knife, +soak it a little in water, and then plunge it into the tan. + +Near Swartlär I noticed a mineral spring, but whatever may be its +qualities, nobody has yet made any inquiries concerning them. + +The river Lulea divides into two branches, not far above the bounds of +Lapmark and Westbothnia, one of which is called the little river Lulea, +whose origin is among the mountains towards Hyttan, the other Stor +Lulea, running from the alps in Nörbattra. + + +_July 30._ + +On examining the cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), I found the +structure of the female as follows. Calyx consisting of an universal +involucrum of four leaves, and a partial one, likewise of four ovate +leaves, containing eight florets, each of which has an ovate spatha, of +a very large size with respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Petals +none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas acute. Seed-vessel none, the base +of the spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary. + +The shore of the river Lulea produced, in excessive abundance, the Water +Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_); likewise the Aquatic Dwarf Plantain +(_Limosella aquatica_). The Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here +grew above other plants, twisting its leaves round them, like a sort of +bindweed. (_Alopecurus geniculatus_ β. _Sp. Pl._ 89. See _Fl. Lapp. n._ +38.) + +The Water Sedum (_Tillæa aquatica_) proved no less plentiful by the +sides of the roads. + +In the river I gathered an herb, which I was doubtful whether to refer +to _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), to _Potamogeton_, or to the _Aponogeton_ +of Pontedera. (This appears to have been the latter, _Zannichellia +palustris_.) + +I reached the old town of Lulea in the evening. + +It rained and thundered violently during the whole night. + + +_July 31._ + +This day I had intended to prosecute my journey towards Tornea, but a +heavy rain, with tremendous thunder and lightning, confined me entirely +to the house. + +The wife of the principal clergyman of Lulea, on whose accuracy I have +the greatest possible dependance, assured me that she had, at the +posthouse of Biorsiö, in the parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large +quantities of the Yellow Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_; see vol. 1. +36), collected and boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage. This +astonished her very much, as she knew it to be used in Jemtland to +poison flies. When she expressed her apprehensions about eating of this +herb, the maid-servant laughed at her, telling her it was much too good +to be so slighted. + +Hares are always hunted in this part of the country, and the dogs are +trained not to bark. If they offend in this respect they are sure of a +beating. + + +_August 1._ + +I found some Truffles (_Lycoperdon Tuber_) between Heden and Swartlä. + +Near the road grew _Glaux_ (_maritima_), as well as the Narrow-leaved +Sea Plantain (_Plantago maritima_), and Small-leaved _Angelica_ (_A. +sylvestris_). On a bank I observed _Triticum maritimum_. (This last is +thought by Dr. Afzelius to be _Elymus arenarius_. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2 +_n._ 34.) + +Here various plants, which I had found blossoming at Umœa, were now +laden with fruit, as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Vaccinia_ +(Whortle-berries), _Chamæmorus_ (_Rubus Chamæmorus_, Cloud-berry), and +_Chamærubus_ (_R. saxatilis_, Stone Bramble), all which vied with each +other in the profusion of their berries. But little Ling (_Erica_) was +to be seen. + +The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds, which had partly been burnt, +were covered with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-moss (_Lichen +rangiferinus_). + +Towards evening I arrived at Tornea. The weather was fine. + +Near Grotnäs, situated opposite to the church of Calix, is a ferry to +convey passengers to this church, adjoining to which the inhabitants of +Lulea and Tornea keep a fair. + +The river produces abundance of Flote-grass, which at this time bore its +spikes or heads of flowers. I had long been acquainted with the plant, +it being very abundant in this country as well as in Smoland, and had +wondered what species it could be; especially as I never heard of any +botanist who had met with the fructification. It is a _Sparganium_, +whose leaves are very long, reaching a fathom or two, according to the +depth of the water, and floating on its surface. They are convex at +their back, except in the lower part, which is flat on both sides. (This +plant named _Flotagræs_, or Flote-grass, in Linnæus's native country of +Smoland, is the _Sparganium_ _n._ 345* of _Fl. Lapp._, in the second +edition of which work I have called it _S. natans_, on his own authority +in the _Flora Suecica_ and _Species Plantarum_; but in _English Botany,_ +_v._ 4. 273, and _Fl. Brit._ 962, this error is corrected, so far at +least as concerns the original Lapland specimen, which is unquestionably +_S. simplex_, _Engl. Bot._ _v._ 11. _t._ 745, a species he did not, in +his works, distinguish from our common _S. ramosum_, _t._ 744. I am now +persuaded he confounded this _simplex_ with the _natans_ in his Lapland +tour, as well as in his herbarium, where the original specimens of the +two are pinned together.) + + +_August._ 2 + +They dry their corn upon drying sheds as is practised in Smoland. The +cross piece is turned towards the south, but the method here differs +from that of the Smolanders in one respect. The latter place one sheaf +on the top of another, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia lay the +sheaves cross-wise, in an alternate order, each thinking their own +method the best for procuring the most complete ventilation. In this +country fifteen sheaves are lodged under each shed, without supporters; +but in Smoland twelve only, ten of which are in the main pile and two at +the sides. The Smolanders therefore are able to reach high enough to +place their uppermost sheaves by hand, but the inhabitants of +Westbothnia find it necessary to be provided with what they term a +_Skyllkrok_, or Rick-hook, consisting of a round pole, with a +transverse projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-post in England, +as appears by the sketch in the manuscript,) by means of which each +sheaf is lifted up. + +On a heath very near the river Sangis I noticed some earth of a red +colour. The dry part of the forest which had been burnt down, produced +Reindeer-moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_) in such abundance, that the whole +face of the ground was covered with it. + +The evening was fine when I reached Zangis (or Sangis), where I took +leave of my native tongue. + + +_August 3._ + +At sun-rise the marshes were all white with hoar frost. In the preceding +night winter had paid his first visit, and slept in the lap of the +lovely Flora. I did not observe that she had suffered from her rude +visitor, except with regard to the _Dracontium_ (_Calla palustris_), the +leaves of which assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest in bloom at +this place, are _Erica_ (_vulgaris_), the Red-flowered Persicaria +(_Polygonum Persicaria_), and _Hieracium præmorsum_ (_Leontodon +autumnale_, _Sp. Pl._ 1123. _Hedypnois autumnalis_, _Fl. Brit._ 826. +_Engl. Bot. t._ 830.) + +On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-tongue behind me. At Saris I met +with native Finlanders only, whose language was unintelligible to me. + +Here grew the _Masarooth_ (_Selinum palustre_) with a proliferous umbel. + +The mouse-traps used here are made like those for catching squirrels; +which I have already described. + +Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tornea are three ferries to pass. In +my way I noticed a new species of _Stellaria_ (_Callitriche_), of a +small size, not leafy at the top, erect, not creeping like the _S. +minor_; (see _Fl. Lapp. n._ 2. _var._ γ.) It had the appearance of +_Potamogeton graminifolium_ (_gramineum_). (What particular state or +appearance of the _Callitriche_ this might be, does not appear, nor is +it mentioned in _Fl. Lapp._) + +I reached Tornea by three o'clock. + + + + +TORNEA. + + +_August 4._ + +A reindeer may be driven in a carriage twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, +or, at the utmost, fifteen; but the animal is generally killed +immediately afterwards with the Laplanders' spears, and eaten. + +The Laplanders are perhaps so called from the (Swedish) word _lappa_, to +sew or patch together, because their garments usually answer to that +description. + +The degree of cold is certainly greater on the alps than in less +elevated regions; for instance, it is colder in Jamtland than at Tornea, +though the former lies about one hundred miles further south. Thus it +appears that the cause of the severity of the cold does not depend so +much on the approach towards the pole, as on the elevation of the +ground, which ought to be carefully observed. Hence the plants of the +north of Lapland are such only as are capable of resisting the most +severe and long-continued cold, and hence snow lies on the alps of +Italy. + +Alpine plants are, for the most part, perennial, except the Little Blue +Centaury (_Gentiana nivalis_), and perhaps the Single-flowered _Lychnis_ +(_apetala_). I wish botanists would endeavour to discover and make known +any new kinds of pulse or grain, especially such as are of a hardy +constitution, and not likely to suffer from the severity of winter. Some +are perhaps to be found among the grasses. It is necessary to ascertain +what degree of northern latitude they would bear, and whether they are +capable of growing within the frigid zone. It is worthy of inquiry in +what respects the Alps, properly so called (of Switzerland,) agree with +ours of Lapland, as well as how far, and by what means, they are +susceptible of culture. The descriptions that have been given of them +may be consulted. The Greenland alps would also be worth examining, to +see how far these different countries agree in their native plants, in +varieties of situation, and in plenty of soil, compared with the +proportion of rocks or large stones. Do they all agree in the diminutive +stature of their plants? + +The tranquil existence of the Laplanders answers to Ovid's description +of the golden age, and to the pastoral state as depicted by Virgil. It +recalls the remembrance of the patriarchal life, and the poetical +descriptions of the Elysian fields. + +So many Finlanders crowded about me, that I scarcely knew what to do. +They were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to be nearly blind. Many of +them were perfectly deprived of sight, and ninety-nine out of a hundred +that were so had their eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe any +remedy for this evil, so long as its cause is every where so prevalent. +This consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had the management of +these Finlanders, I would tie them up to the wall and give them fifteen +pair of lashes apiece till they made chimneys to their huts, especially +as they have such plenty of fire-wood. This improvement in the comfort +of their dwellings might surely be accomplished by the authority of the +chief magistrate, for I have not been able to learn any sufficient +reason for their adherence to their old way of building. If people +thirty or forty years of age are thus afflicted, what must become of +them by the time they are seventy? + +The Finlander's scythe is represented in the annexed figure. + +[Illustration] + +The handle is rather above two feet in length, straight for about the +space of a foot from the part where the blade is bound on. Afterwards it +is slightly curved outwards, and then again, towards the apex, in some +degree inwards so as to make a straight line with the base. The top is +thicker than any other part. The blade of the scythe is, like that used +in our country, about a foot and a half long, and an inch and half +broad, very slightly curved. Its back is, like that of our scythes, +thickened on one side. The mower takes hold of the top with his left +hand, so that the back of the scythe is uppermost, but grasps with his +right the part where the above-described curvature ends, so as to be +able to give the edge a turn upwards. As he moves forward, he mows first +on the right, and then on the left, only turning his hands, and not +lifting the scythe, but merely presenting each side of its blade +alternately to the ground. + +On the south-west side of the town, across a small bay, lies a mineral +spring. The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is one of the best +mineral waters I have met with in the north; but it lies very low, +appearing to derive its origin from a stream that runs above, so that +its water comes out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and is covered +with scum. + + +_August 5._ + +Every body at Tornea was continually talking to me of a distemper to +which their horned cattle are subject, and which kills many of them in +the course of the winter, but especially in the spring, when they lose +from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost every year. On walking to +examine the meadow into which they are first turned out to grass, I +found it a bog or marsh, where the Water Hemlock, _Cicuta aquatica_, +(_C. virosa_, _Sp. Pl._ 366. _Fl. Lapp. n._ 103. _Engl. Bot. t._ 479.) +grew in abundance, and had evidently been cropped plentifully by the +animals in feeding. It seemed probable therefore that they eat it most +in the spring, when first turned into this pasture; whence it proves so +much more extensively fatal than in summer, when perhaps they only pick +up a plant here and there. It grows in all the moist meadows which are +mown for hay; consequently the cattle take it likewise in their winter +food, and therefore perish, more or less, during that time of the year. +We learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave it to various kinds of +animals, what violent symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing +appeared to me so interesting, during my visit to Tornea, as to examine +into the cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas be right, the whole +might be prevented by employing a woman for a month to eradicate all the +_Cicuta_; by which this town, small as it is, might save above two +hundred silver dollars. I was informed that the cattle dying from this +cause become so infectious, that they cannot be flayed without great +danger. The persons employed in that business have their hands greatly +swelled by touching the carcase, and several have lost their lives in +consequence. The plant in question, therefore, agrees in qualities with +the _Œnanthe_, as it does likewise in place of growth and outward +appearance, especially in the _pinnæ_ of its leaves.[9] + +The meadows hereabouts, among the thickets towards the shore of the bay, +afforded me the following plants. + +1. _Veronica_ (_maritima_), with an erect stem, branched in the upper +part, and bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves acute, cordate-oblong, +sharply serrated, the upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, or +four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla tubular, divided two +thirds of its length into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, +ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the lower three-cleft, the middle +segment narrowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two, very long, +awlshaped, situated at the separation of the two lips. Hence the flower +is of the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule heartshaped, narrow +at the upper edge. The flowers are numerous in each spike. + +2. Selleri, (_Apium graveolens_[10],) unless I am much mistaken. The +petals are white, spreading, and acute. The partial umbels are broad. +The general one has very rarely one or two (leaves of an involucrum?). + +3. _Galium parisiense_ (_uliginosum_), with a square, furrowed, +procumbent stem. The leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the +extremity, acute, armed with little prickles as well as the stem. The +flower is not tubular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter are white, as +is also the flower. Four leaves grow together in the lower part of the +stem, but in the upper part six. Under the little umbels of flowers are +either four or two. + +4. _Galium album_ (_boreale_). Stem square, erect, branched, especially +in the upper part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather broader towards +their base, three-nerved, slightly reflexed at the margin. There are two +leaves to each of the lesser umbels. Seeds two, roundish, joined into a +didymous shape, downy. Flower not tubular. + +5. _Cruciata_, if I am not mistaken. (_Galium palustre_, that is, +_Cruciata palustris alba_ of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, +bluntish, narrower towards their base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. +See what I gathered in the woody parts of Lulean Lapland. (This was the +same species, as appears by the _Fl. Lapp._) + +6. _Clymenum parisiense_ (_Lathyrus palustris_). Stem triangular, two of +its angles ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed border. There +are two little oblong pointed angular leaflets at the insertion of the +leaves, which latter are pinnated, ending in a tendril, and composed of +two or three pair of nearly lanceolate _pinnæ_. The flowers are +violet-coloured, three or four on each common stalk. + +7. _Angelica tenuifolia_ (_sylvestris_), which I would define _A. +umbellulis globosis_. The general umbel, though often naked, is commonly +furnished with one, two, or as far as five, very slender leaves; each +partial one has often as many as eight. It is curious that when the +plant blooms vigorously, none of the stalks of the umbel can be seen, +but the flowers form a complete ball, like the Double Guelder-rose +(_Sambucus Opulus_, _flore pleno_,) or the Globe Thistle (_Echinops +Sphærocephalus_). The petals are lanceolate and spreading. Stem +striated, or slightly furrowed. + +8. _Cicuta aquatica_ of Wepfer (_C. virosa_ above mentioned). I am +disposed to refer this plant to _Œnanthe_, on account of its external +aspect, which is wonderfully like the last-mentioned genus. I must +examine whether their flowers agree. The footstalks are hollow, +inflated, and erect. _Pinnæ_ three, rarely four, pair, of a narrow +lanceolate shape. Those on the stem have from three to seven serratures +each, but the radical ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes the +lowermost serrature, at the lower edge, grows out into a sort of +spurious _pinnula_. The top of the stem bears from one to three umbels; +the general umbel being naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary +leaflet[11]. The partial ones have seven short, narrow, acute leaflets. +The tips of the petals are inflexed. + +9. (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_. Its capsules are rose-coloured, +its flowers yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, and obtuse. The +capsules are about equal to the interstices of the spike, which all +together is about four inches long. + + +_August 6._ + +The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore a day of recreation for both +mind and body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a memorial of King +Charles the XIth's own observation of the sun on the 14th of June, 1694. +The sun was visible on that night till very near twelve, when a small +cloud hid it from the sight. It was however above the horizon[12]. In +winter the sun does not rise above the horizon, but at the solstice it +becomes visible. Could it be seen from the pole? + +The young women in Finland have much more swelling bosoms than those of +Lapland; the latter accord best with the description of the poet, + + "_Quales cruda viro puella servat._" + (_Mart._ lib. 8. ep. 63.) + + +_August 7._ + +The town of Tornea stands on a small island, inhabited close to the +shore on the south-west side. I call it an island, because it is bounded +on the north by a swamp; on the south-east by the great river of Tornea; +on the west and south-west by an arm of the sea, like a large river in +appearance, but so shallow that no vessel can approach within a mile of +the town on that side. This arm of the sea was formerly the _king's +road_, (a channel obliged to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry in +summer time, on the north side, towards the swamp. + +I ascended the steeple from whence his majesty king Charles the Eleventh +saw the sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694. + + +_August 8._ + +Nothing worth notice occurred. + + +_August 9._ + +Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi, where is a large salmon fishery, +for which this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for its meadows, and +Storlionis for its cornfields, but the last yield the greatest profit. + + +_August 10._ + +I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman in Kimi till the 11th. +This day I gathered a sort of Pink, _Caryophyllus_, with reflexed petals +of a purplish colour, divided into many segments almost to their base. +The claws, not contracted at the summit, bear on the upper side, at the +bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This was the beautiful and +fragrant _Dianthus superbus._) Also a _Salix_ with appendages at the +base of its leaves. (What species this was, does not appear.) At the +shore of the great river grew _Alsine repens_, _foliis gramineis_, +(_Stellaria uliginosa_, _Fl. Brit._ 476. _Engl. Bot. t._ 1074.) + +Lying-in women at this place are accustomed to drink brandy seasoned +with pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicating quality, by way of +a narcotic, and partly to bring on the labour pains. The clergyman's +wife told me an infallible method, as she said, to prevent the pains +which often follow childbirth. When the woman's first child is born, and +the umbilical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood is given her to +swallow. This is to be practised at every succeeding labour, and I was +assured that each would be rendered more easy, without any after pains. + +In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, it is customary to have the +dairy superintended by a superior female servant, called the _fäbodar_, +who receives for each cow one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides +a pound of _mesosmör_. (See _v._ 1. 197.) + +To obtain a greater quantity of butter, the milk is set by, either in a +cellar or in a double-walled house, to be kept as cold as possible, for +at least two days, or so long as that it will not stick to the finger. +The milk will not turn sour, but will become very thin and blue, while +the cream collects on the top, of considerable thickness and in great +perfection. The cream being taken off, and put into the churn, often +proves so rich, that after it has been churned but a short time, if the +churn be laid on one side nothing will run out. It is no small labour to +churn such cream. + +Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being warmed before it is +coagulated. If the milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do for this +purpose. Such thin milk as this is not very fit for eating, but the whey +which separates from it in the making of cheese, is by some people made +into _syra_. (See _v._ 1. 243. _n._ 11.) This is done merely by putting +it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, when, if set by for a considerable +time, it will become extremely tough. Most usually however it is boiled, +and then kept for two or three days, when, some new milk being added, it +is boiled up again to the consistence of flummery, and then set by in +some kind of vessel. If it remains for a long while without being +touched, it grows hard, and becomes _mesosmör_. (_v._ 1. 243. _n._ 12.) +The blue milk above mentioned may be boiled like fresh milk, and does +not readily turn sour. + +_Gos-mjölk_, or rather _Gäs-mjölk_, (from the Swedish verb _gäsa_, to +work or ferment,) is made as follows. The butter-milk is set by in a tub +till it begins to ferment, when about a third or fourth part of the +quantity of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed to work once +more. A serum by this time is formed at the bottom, which is drawn off +by means of a cock or tap, in the bottom of the tub, and used +immediately for food. A similar portion of fresh milk is then put to the +remainder, when more whey is, in due time, deposited. This practice is +repeated from time to time for the space of a fortnight, at the end of +which the milk in the tub becomes of a thick consistence, and is +excellent eating. + +_Servet-mjölk_ (Napkin Milk) is made by taking a quantity of sour milk +just beginning to ferment, when bubbles, like hydatids as it were, are +formed between the cream and the milk. This is cut across in various +directions, and the thicker substance taken off and hung up in a napkin, +that the liquid part may drain away. What remains in the napkin acquires +a firm consistence, and is eaten along with fresh sweet cream. + + + + +EAST BOTHLAND. + + +_August 11._ + +I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is +Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian. + +Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._ +1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or +middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small. + +A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards +the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears. + +In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the +_Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), +the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_. +(This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_, +formerly called _Coccognidium_.) + +I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was +almost out of flower. + +The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of +which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral +ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the +anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch +long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three +principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three +valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere +longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb +has the aspect of _Veratrum_. + + +_August 12._ + +The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with +Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_). +The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a +remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the +_Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_ +(Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Chamæmorus_, are here in +abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself +every where in the highway. + +The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally +against upright posts. + +The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of +the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an +oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a +flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not +partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see +_vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this +opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the +smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is +rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke +can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be +frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me +altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a +moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind +and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the +midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their +opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the +door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep +themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only +shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as +owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within +was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other +persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to +me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug. +On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was +actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were +accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours. + +I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast +them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their +fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the +truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the +winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome. + +I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings +have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season, +however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the +above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden +vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made, +stands a table. + +As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the +heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them +for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but +double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such +as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the +dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at +the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their +provisions, distil brandy, &c. + +The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses +in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on +longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve +outwards towards the top. + +This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so +that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper +part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made +bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for +this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time +quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The +sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed +ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf +being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards +carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance +of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones. + +The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in +Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or +depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon +the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned +horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door. + +By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches +high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale +above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499. +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.) + +[Illustration] + +The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the +Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from +the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c, +is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is +flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost +projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage +of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture. +The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions +of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b +to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches +in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of +c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute +angle with the handle. + +The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve +joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See +the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159) + +In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for +boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to +heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which +is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste +to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are +smoke-dried. + +During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable +cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find +themselves sufficiently warm. + +The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi. + +[Illustration] + + a, the base, is three palms long and one broad. + + b, b, handles, each a palm in length. + + c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure. + + e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke. + The distance betwixt e and e is three feet. + + f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage. + + g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two + palms and a half broad. + + h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base + one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet. + + i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the + base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is + introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points + together rather than to separate them. + +It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned +downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is +laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done +alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well +as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep +trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to +m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share +from going too far downward. + +No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over +with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where +rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described. + +It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six +plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons +are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or +ordinary). + +In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_) +_Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a +solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the +Linnæan herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.) + +My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East +Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a +horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or +would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I +arrived, and turned my steps backward. + +The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the +Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their +dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, +their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt +into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon +their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high +collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their +coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife, +though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied +round the knees. + +At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it +was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which +formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in +articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different +appearance from the Lapland females. + +East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. +The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that +they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the +boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water +to pour over the reindeer moss. + +The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season +of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground. + +The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-night, had already sprung up, and +made the fields quite green. + +I returned back to Tornea in the evening. + + +_August 13._ + +This being a fast day, I heard a sermon in the Finnish tongue, preached +at the church of Tornea. A lawful wife was churched, after her lying-in; +which ceremony was performed in the choir, near the elevated part. The +women in general had either naturally white hair, or hair that had once +been brown, now turned grey. Very few had it red. They wear their hair +rather straight. + +The physiognomy of both men and women is phlegmatic and stupid; the body +clumsy, the complexion bad, and the features destitute of all delicacy +of form or expression. + +The boundary between West Bothnia and East Bothnia is not formed by the +river of Kimi, but by another smaller stream, not far distant, on the +left. + +They catch _Sijk_ (_Salmo Lavaretus_) in a curious manner at this place. +These fish, like the common salmon, swim against the stream, and for +that reason are to be caught only near large falls of the river, which +they are unable to ascend. The fisherman, being furnished with a net +fixed at the end of a long pole, strips himself naked up to the waist, +and walks into the middle of the strongest cascade. To prevent accidents +from the force of the water, a rope is often tied round his waist, the +other end of which is held fast by a friend on shore. Thus they catch +the fish below the fall. + +Seals are taken by various means, being either shot with fire-arms, or +caught in a net. The latter, three or four fathoms high, is made of +hempen cord, as thick as a goose-quill, each mesh being two spans wide. +This net is kept upright in the water by means of oblong floats of wood, +and has no stones at the bottom. Four or five such nets are frequently +tied to the ends of each other, and a large stone is attached to the +last, bound about with willow or osier, which serves to keep the nets +steady. These are set in places where the seals are known to hide +themselves, for those animals do the fishermen great damage, not only by +devouring fish, but by tearing the fishing nets, from the destruction of +which the haunts of the seals are discovered. When a seal comes in the +way of the above-described nets, he either thrusts his head between the +meshes, getting more and more entangled the more he pushes forward, or, +as often happens, he is caught by the foot. + +On a sand-hill near the church at Tornea, grew, in great abundance, +_Gramen spicâ triticeâ maritimum_, (_Triticum radice repente_, _foliis +rigidis_; _Fl. Lapp. n._ 34, which, in the second edition of that work, +p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my intelligent friend Dr. Afzelius, +referred to _Elymus arenarius_, and what Linnæus here says, confirms +this determination.) Its blue leaves looked quite different from all +others, and very handsome. I picked some seeds from the spikes, which +were as large as grains of rye. Hence I was induced to consider whether +this plant might not serve as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such +dry and blowing sands, provided the proper method of managing it could +be discovered, which surely would not be a very difficult task. The +advantage of this would be that, by such means, many sandy tracts, where +nothing else will grow, might be turned to advantage; and the perennial +roots, which no other corn has, would of course save the trouble of +sowing it annually. Perhaps even these roots themselves might, in hard +times, serve for food. + +The tall Finlander Daniel Cajanus, at Stockholm, born in this part of +East Bothland, was the son of a clergyman. At his birth he was no bigger +than the generality of children, and his health was very indifferent, +particularly with regard to his chest, till the age of twelve or fifteen +years. + +I was informed that the inhabitants of this neighbourhood often hear +thunder in the alps during winter. + +In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by a south wind, and mild weather +comes from the north, because of the sea. + +The Laplanders consult several natural objects by way of compass as they +travel. + +1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more copious branches on their southern +side than towards the north. + +2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which bear grass, the northern +whortle-berries. + +3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on the north side, smooth on the +opposite part. + +4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on the north side, with the black +_Usnea_, or filamentous _Lichen_ (_L. jubatus_). + +By such marks as these they are able to find their way through pathless +forests. Have we any guides so certain? + +When these people kill any wild reindeer with fire-arms in summer, they +lodge the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up as they want it for +provision. + +I observed a curious kind of lime-stone burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other +places round the neighbouring sea-coast. + + +_August 14._ + +A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjortot has been assayed by the +Mineral Board, and found to contain forty _per cent._ lead, but only +three or four of silver. + + +_August 15._ + +Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up the Fresh-water Sponge, _Spongia +lacustris_ of Newton, (_S. lacustris_; _Syst. Nat. v._ 1. 1299. Linnæus +here refers to Mr. Newton, the friend of Ray, who found the Sponge in +question in the Norwich river, where it still exists. It is however +denominated in Ray's _Synopsis_, _S. ramosa fluviatilis_, not +_lacustris_. Linnæus quoted from memory.) + + +_August 16._ + +In dissecting the flower of _Artemisia_ (_vulgaris_), I was struck with +its very curious conformation. (This alludes to the want of a limb to +the corolla of the female or marginal florets. See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. +244.) + + +_August 17._ + +I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The wind proved contrary. The +islands abounded with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of _Rubus +saxatilis_. On one called Korsholm I met with a sort of _Behen_. Can it +be the same with that which grows in cornfields? Their different parts +are tolerably alike. This grew among the pebbles of the beach. Its calyx +is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem erect. Fruit of one cell. In other +respects it resembles _Behen_. (This was _Cucubalus_ (_Behen_) variety +the third, or γ, _Fl. Lapp. n._ 180. _ed._ 2. 149. _Silene maritima_, +_Fl. Brit._ 468. _Engl. Bot. t._ 957. We have found it remain for many +years unchanged in a garden, propagating itself by seed, though Linnæus +reports that the third year he could not distinguish his from our common +_Silene inflata_, his _Cucubalus Behen_.) + + +ŒCONOMICAL REMARKS CONCERNING THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA. + +The soil is various, sometimes clay, sometimes sand. The corn-fields are +sown every other year, and lie fallow the intermediate seasons, half of +each field lying fallow, while the other half is cultivated. The former +is ploughed during the whole summer, to prevent the growth of grass or +weeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is sown in these open fields only. +Rye is cultivated on land that has recently been cleared of its wood by +burning, but not in any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are sown +together in one crop, and not, as usual in other places, Turnips one +year and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved to treat visitors. Barley +bread is of three different qualities; 1. made of the unmixed barley; 2. +of a mixture of barley and chaff; 3. of chaff without any addition, +except now and then a handfull or two of barley. This last is their +_Spis-bröd_, or household-bread. + +The plough is of the same construction as that used in Westbothland. + +Almost every person, except such as are very poor, catches as many of +the small kind of Herrings, called _Strœmming_ (_Clupea Harengus_ β, +_Membras_ of old authors,) as are necessary for the support of his +family. Those who are not otherwise employed in spring and autumn, catch +them for sale afterwards to such as have not time to take any for +themselves. These fish begin to spawn about the 18th of May, and +continue till about the 16th of June. After the latter period they go +into the small inlets among the rocks, and are taken by means of large +nets till St. Peter's day, June 29th. This is called the large +Strœmming fishery. From St. Peter's day till St. Bartholomew's (Aug. +24th), or even later, they are taken likewise with nets in their usual +haunts. These fish are found with milt as well as roe throughout the +summer. + +One barrel of sour Strœmming is as valuable as two of the salted +sort, the former being greatly preferred. A peasant whose family +consists of a dozen people, takes half a barrel of salt Strœmming for +his whole supply, and this is used to make a kind of soup when boiled +with turnips; but he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour +Strœmming, which is eaten without any preparation, like smoked and +salted meat. If the director of the family is a good œconomist, he +will never allow it to be boiled or roasted. They let the fish which is +to make sour Strœmming lie for three or four hours only before they +take out the entrails, after which it is washed in a small coarse sieve, +till most of the blood is removed. It is then salted, in the proportion +of thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each barrel of fish. The fish +destined to make salt Strœmming must be much more carefully washed, +for if the least drop of blood remains it will turn sour. Every barrel +of this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt which is disposed in +layers, alternately with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and salt are +rubbed together with the hands, till a sort of scum rises on the top. + +Another way of preparing salt Strœmming is to make so strong a brine +that the entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not sink. They put in +only so many of the fish as can readily be stirred about in the brine. +If the tub be so full that the brine does not entirely cover the +Strœmming, more is added, and the whole is suffered to remain for +some days. The fish is afterwards gutted in the following manner. A +person puts ten or twelve of them on the thumb of his left hand, in such +a manner that the back of each fish is turned towards the palm. He then +very dexterously loosens the gills with his right hand, pinching out the +gills and intestines at once; which is performed with great quickness. +The fish are then put into a rope basket, and salted as before. When +they have remained thus for a couple of days, they are put into other +baskets, in order that the brine may drain away, and finally are packed +up in new kegs for keeping, without any further salting. A hole is bored +in each tub, just above the lowermost hoop, to draw off the brine, which +is always collecting from the fish, and if permitted to remain, will +cause the whole to turn sour; but the same method is not practised for +the sour Strœmming. This last is in its greatest perfection about St. +James's day (July 25th). + +These people have three meals a day in summer, besides breakfast, and +the sour Strœmming always makes a part of their dinner, as well as of +the preceding refreshment. The fish, after being repeatedly squeezed, is +laid between two slices of bread, and so eaten. After it they take some +sour preparation of milk, without cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit +of cheese, or bread and butter; but they never eat meat after the sour +Strœmming. Their vegetable food consists of cabbage, pease, or +turnips, the first being generally eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten +once a week, except when the cabbage is deficient, and then they supply +its place. Turnips and salt Strœmming are generally eaten in a +morning, in the following manner. When the turnips are boiled nearly +enough, the fish is put to them, but not before, lest it should be +broken to pieces. To this some flour is added; and they drink sour milk +after it. Their supper always consists of flummery, made of barley-meal. +Before they first go out in a morning they eat either bread and butter, +or bread and cheese, but they prefer the former. The mixed bread (made +of corn and chaff) is their ordinary portion; good bread, made entirely +of corn, they seldom or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or for +very extraordinary occasions. Their mixed or household bread, being +baked in cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying four or five such +cakes together upon each other. They are never unprovided with ale in +their cellars, to treat visitors, though their ordinary drink is table +beer. In summer time they always drink _Syra_, (see vol. i. p. 243.) + +The peasants themselves eat but very little of their own mutton, and +chiefly the shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell; scarcely any is +kept in the house but the above parts, with the marrow-bones, which +they break to get at the marrow. The heads and feet of sheep, goats, and +hogs, are salted and dried, being, when wanted, boiled with pease, and +not ill-tasted. The legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often boiled +fresh; the fat which floats on the top being collected and preserved in +a horn or pot, as very useful to grease small ropes, and wheels. The +legs and feet thus boiled are afterwards thrown away, not eaten. The +head and feet of a calf are usually pickled. + +For fire-wood these people use birch-wood. They burn no candles in their +houses. They go to smoke themselves with the Finlanders in their huts. + +The hay is mown here in the same manner as in Upland, and the corn is +managed in the same way as in Smoland. When the season is dry, they +prefer drying the corn in heaps in the open air, as before described; +but in wet weather they have recourse to sheds. The hay is spread out +till dry, and afterwards carried, without being made into cocks. + +They raise as many hops as are wanted for each family, and have perhaps +a few pounds over, for sale. + +Their pales are high, made of pine-wood, and placed sloping. + +The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs made of alder wood, by which +they obtain a great proportion of cream, even two fingers' thick. This +cream is stirred up with the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for +making cheese. Another mode is with butter-milk, to which they add a +sixth part of fresh milk, that has stood one day and been skimmed. This +mixture, being first warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese thus made is +preferred to the former, and often eaten in preference to butter. + +Between Midsummer and St. James's day (July 25th), the whey is +collected, after the cheese is made; which, after boiling for some +hours, is set by to cool. When cold, it is barrelled up for winter use. +Poor people and old women beg or buy it, a small bottle-full at a time. +To one pot of sour milk they add a fourth part of _Syra_; and these +together have the taste of what they term _Filbunke_, which is sour milk +with the cream on, just beginning to ferment, and of which they make +_Servet-mjölk_; (see p. 150.) + +Thick milk (perhaps _Mesosmör_, see vol. i. p. 243,) is often kept in +barrels till winter, as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both serve +for winter provision. + +_Syra_ is so very sour as not to be eatable by itself. When they have no +milk to dilute it with, they add an equal quantity of water to the +_Syra_, and mix the whole with flummery, which mixture they prefer to +small beer. + +Butter is now and then made of goat's milk; but it is very strong, and +quite as white as that made of the milk of the rein-deer. + + +_August 18._ + +On islands near the shore I saw a _Salix_ with leaves like the +cultivated olive. It is a shrub three feet high, but growing in a +spreading manner. Stem grey, with roundish dusky solitary buds, of a +very large size, in proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually larger +(upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, bluntish, on scarcely perceptible +footstalks, furnished with an obtuse longitudinal rib beneath, but no +veins. Their upper surface is green, sprinkled all over with minute +white dots; very slightly channelled, and paler, along the nerve. (This +appears to have been _S. rosmarinifolia_.) + + +_August 19._ + +At the fair of Calix I obtained some information concerning the commerce +of this country, which is very different from that of almost every place +in the world besides, insomuch that I am unable to determine which party +makes his market of the other. The townsman thinks it is himself who +cheats the peasant, but I verily believe he is the party who is cheated. + +1. The general plan of traffic here is bartering one article for +another. + +2. The merchant generally carries his goods home to the peasant's +residence in the country, at whatever distance it may be, or else +conveys them to the fair, from whence the purchaser is to fetch them. + +3. When a townsman sets up trade as a merchant, his principal aim is to +get as many country-people to connect themselves with him as possible, +who are to supply him with their produce. These are termed +_Gield-bonder_, or creditors. + +4. The advantage the peasants have in thus confiding to the merchant the +whole of their goods, is, that the latter pays their taxes for them to +the collector, which must be done either in ready money, or bills of +exchange. + +5. When the merchant receives the goods from the countryman, no price is +fixed upon them between the parties; but when the former returns from +Stockholm, he sets down in his accompt-book nearly the sum for which he +has disposed of the articles there. In this the peasant trusts to the +honour of the merchant, and is paid accordingly. + +6. These prices are not communicated to the countryman immediately, nor +does he know the price of the salt, tobacco, corn, and other articles, +with which the merchant supplies him in return, till they settle +accompts; which does not take place till the end of every year, or +perhaps not so frequently. + +7. As long as a peasant keeps to one merchant, he is allowed credit, and +obtains advances of any money for which he may have occasion, even +although the goods delivered do not amount to the interest of the sum +lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000 dollars. But if he carries any of +his goods to another merchant, he must immediately pay what he owes to +his original correspondent, or suffer a sequestration of his property. + +8. The countryman never brings his own goods to market, unless he +happens to be going that way, in which case he usually takes them with +him, but otherwise it is expected the merchant should fetch them. + +9. When the towns of this part of the country were first built, each had +certain parishes appropriated to it, and these were called the trading +district of each town, in which no person who did not belong to the town +had a right to trade. These exclusive privileges were subsequently +annulled by royal authority, and free markets were established, where +strangers as well as the neighbouring inhabitants were equally permitted +to trade. This open trade has not however taken place at Calix, partly +because the peasants are situated at so great a distance from one +another, and partly because the merchants in the town conceive that such +a plan would ruin them, they being in that case obliged to buy and sell +for ready money. + +10. Here are no free markets, properly speaking, but only _Upbördsmoten_ +(periodical meetings of the collectors of the revenues with the +peasants). At these times the townsmen and the peasants meet together at +the place of rendezvous, as at Calix every year on the 19th of August, +and at Tornea in the depth of winter. + +The inconveniences of the above plan of trade are, + +1. The merchant lays considerable sums fast, with which he might +otherwise extend his commerce. + +2. He has the trouble of carrying his goods to the house of the peasant, +where-ever it may be, up the country, and of bringing what he takes in +exchange from the place of rendezvous to his own house in town. + +3. The consequence of such a plan is, that many a merchant has +outstanding debts to the amount of 100,000 dollars, the greater part of +which he may never get paid. + +The inconveniences to the countryman are, + +1. He runs in debt more than he can ever pay. + +2. The merchant has the advantage of fixing what price he chooses on his +goods. + +3. He is not allowed to take any measures for his own profit. + + * * * * * + +The collar of the shirts, worn by the inhabitants of Finland and East +Bothland in this neighbourhood, resembles ours, their sleeves being more +like those of a woman's shift. + +Young women here commonly wear the bosom open, and have nothing over +their shift, which is gathered round the waist like a petticoat. + +The country of East Bothland is chiefly inhabited about the sea-coast, +and on the banks of rivers. + +An Aurora borealis was seen in the night of the 18th of August, and had +been visible for a week past, so early does it begin here. + +The rowers of the boat in which I pursued my progress had blisters on +their hands caused by pulling at the oars. Their specific was the ladle +with which they had just been stirring the pot where fish was boiling. +This they applied, hot as it was, to the part affected, and the blisters +disappeared. + +What is here called _Taim_ is a sort of salmon, two spans in length at +most, the tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked, but otherwise like +the common kind. (This is probably the _Salmo salar_ in a young state; +and may perhaps be the _Laxunge_, or _Salmo minor_, _vulgari similis_, +Artedi Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in _Fauna Suecica_, ed. 2. 122, +though Linnæus has no allusion there to the _Taim_.) + +As soon as the corn is carried from the field, it is usual to thrash it +slightly, that whatever is loose may come away, and not be lost in the +barn, as also that the coarser part may be separated from the finer. + +The flail is about a yard long, and rather thick. + +The roofs in this part of the country are made of the bark of +birch-trees, not covered over with any turf, but held fast by round +poles, as thick as one's arm, whose upper extremities, alternately +longer and shorter, reach to the ridge, and being bored through, are +fastened to it, in such a manner that their ends project about a span +each way beyond the ridge, crossing each other. Being thicker at their +lower ends, they lie almost close together. Within this there is often a +false roof, like a cieling, covered over with birch-bark and earth; but +this is only when the house is wished to be very warm. + +At the residence of the Governor of the Province at Calix, I saw three +swans, which, having been taken when young, were as tame as domestic +geese, to which these birds are so much alike in every respect, that I +can have no doubt of their belonging to one genus. Their bill is flat, +and black at the extremity, as well as the margins, convex and somewhat +angular in the middle, so far at least that the swelling part terminates +in an angle. The middle is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are +situated; the base flat or quadrangular, with two sinuses pointing +upwards, and pale-coloured. The margin is toothed just like the _Concha +Veneris_ (_Cypræa_). + +A carriage called _Stotting_ is used here, for bringing home wood for +fuel in winter, over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-wood, and +resembles a sledge. + +The length of this machine from a to b is three feet and a half, the +breadth of each beam four inches and a half; their thickness two inches, +except in the middle, at d, where it is three inches and a half, though +in all the other parts of equal dimensions. The transverse bar, c, is +one foot and a half long, three inches and a half broad, and is elevated +four inches above the longitudinal pieces. e, e, are two slender +triangular pieces, two feet in length, and two inches in thickness. f, +f, are about one palm and a half each in length and breadth. h is curved +upwards about two palms and a half out of the straight line. g is two +feet long between the main beams, three inches and a half broad, but +scarcely one in thickness. + +[Illustration] + +The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from the common ones in being +broader, and in the elevation or thickness of each at d. The transverse +beam c, on which the load is laid, is bored through at each end, to +receive the supporting pieces. The slender bars e, e, which may be +termed clavicles, are broadest in the fore part, where they also are +bored through, and fastened with pegs, serving to give stability to the +cross beam c. Two of these carriages are tied together, one behind the +other, through the hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i, is made of +birchen twigs. + +At Calix I found the _Hippuris_ (_vulgaris_) with forked branches; +_Pentaphylloides facie fragariæ_, (_Potentilla rupestris_?); and _Eruca +foliis sinapeos_. (What this was does not appear.) + +I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Calix and Tornea. + +[Illustration] + +The scythe which serves at Cronby in East Bothland, for mowing barley, +is made exactly like the common one of the Finlanders, with the foremost +handle underneath, but, that nothing may be wasted or lost, the machine +b c is fixed to the scythe, b being stuck into the hole at a, and +fastened with a pin through it at the other side. A cord is tied from +the other end c to the handle d, before the scythe is used. The lower, +or shortest, bar of this appendage scarcely extends beyond the extremity +of the scythe at f. Its position is regulated by a cord, according to +the inclination of the blade f g. + +The length of the main handle of the scythe, e f, is two ells. + + +_August 31._ + +I collected and described various species of _Fungi_. + +(Here follow descriptions or characters of several species of +_Agaricus_, _Boletus_ and _Hydnum_, given more correctly in the _Flora +Lapponica_.) + + +_September 3._ + +I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgomaster Geyer Svanberg, who was +born the preceding night, or rather between one and two in the morning. +He was named Geyer. + +Mr. Svanberg told me the (_Cotyledon_) _Umbilicus Veneris_ grew on a hill +called _Karvick_, near Wallivari to the north. (This probably was not +confirmed, as the plant does not occur in _Flo. Suecica_.) + + +_September 4._ + +I went to Biorknas, in order to be instructed in the art of assaying. + + +_September 9._ + +I examined the fish called in West Bothland _Natting_, (_Petromyzon +fluviatilis._) Its upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling two teeth. +The lower has seven small teeth, of which the two outermost are +largest. Mouth in the under side of the head, gaping, oval, rather +compressed. There are seven openings in a row behind the eyes, gradually +larger as they recede from thence. The fins have no visible rays, but +merely streaks, yet they are not adipose, or fat, fins. There is a +prominent orifice on the top of the head. The _pericardium_ is +cartilaginous. The fish is a span long. Its hind fin triangular. + +These (lampreys) are caught at this time of the year, when the nights +grow dark, in hollow timbers of a conical shape, resembling the wicker +baskets used for catching eels. The entrance is made smooth and even. +These timbers are laid, at the depth of two ells, in the river, and kept +down with stones, the opening being turned to meet the current. + +Some such traps are made of willow-twigs not bigger than goose-quills, +platted close together into the same shape, and are two ells in length. + +I was told that the Laplanders are accustomed to preserve blood of the +reindeer in rennet-bags through the winter till spring, when they boil +it with water, and drink it. + +Tar is obtained in the following manner. A cavity, of an inversely +conical shape, is dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn timbers, nine +ells in length each, so as to form a sort of funnel. This again is lined +with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the tar draining away into the +ground between the timbers. At the bottom is another funnel or vessel of +wood to receive the tar, which runs from thence into a trough, closed on +all sides, except a hole where the point of the said funnel is inserted, +and another at the extremity, closed with a moveable plug, from which +the tar is received into vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut to +pieces, are placed upright in the large funnel above, so as to leave a +convexity over the bottom, and the whole being covered with turf is set +on fire, against the wind. Care is taken, by varying the admission of +air, to prevent its burning too fast, or unequally; and by this means +they procure both tar and charcoal. + + +_September 14._ + +I took my leave of Biorknas. The weather was cold and rainy. Such of the +forest trees as are of a deciduous nature had now assumed a pallid hue, +in consequence of the cold nights; but the evergreens, with their +needle-shaped leaves, standing among them, seemed to defy the cold, and +were rendered conspicuous by their dark-green colour. The high wind +scattered the withered leaves over my path. How useful are the usual +storms of autumn to disperse ripe seeds, and plant colonies far from the +parent trees! The hills appeared sandy; and such places as had been +burnt were now perfectly white with Reindeer Moss, (_Lichen +rangiferinus_,) which grew so close together, as hardly to leave any +room for the Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads like the +Iceland Moss, (_Lichen islandicus._) + +Some part of the road consisted of a reddish-brown earth, such as I had +observed in the early part of my journey near Umœa. I was told that it +was excellent for red paint. At length I reached Zingis, and in the +evening arrived at Tornea, entirely wet through. + + +_September 15._ + +I observed how they manage their corn at this season. They have no barns +to lay it into, but it is placed between poles, all the ears directed to +one side, in stacks two or three ells long, and very high. If the corn +be not quite dry, it is first spread abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a +kiln, and thrashed on a floor. How liable must it be to take fire, and +how much must unavoidably be spilt in consequence of such management! + +I received 100 dollars, of copper-money, from the chief clergyman. + +I learned here that Tansy (_Tanacetum vulgare_) and Mugwort (_Artemisia +vulgaris_) are used to make a fomentation or bath, wonderfully useful +for women in labour, who are accustomed to sit over the steam of these +herbs. I had observed the people at every house drying Tansy, but could +meet with nobody who would inform me to what use it was destined. + + +_September 16._ + +This day I again left Tornea for Kimi. There are six ferries between +these two places, over the river Kokama, which passes near Kimi. Two +miles from hence are the boundaries of East and West Bothnia. Lime-stone +attracted my notice all the way along the road to Norbotn; it was yellow +on the outside, whitish within. + + +_September 17._ + +I departed from the posthouse of Kimi. The weather was unfavourable, for +it rained all day long. I took up my lodging in the evening at the +posthouse of Jö. This part of the country lies very low, abounding with +marshes and numerous small rivulets, but few hills. There is plenty of +grass. The buildings are bad. The forests consist chiefly of Birch, +intermixed with the _acifoliæ_ (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these +last the Juniper was remarkable for its abundance and large size, so as +to be almost arborescent. The Birch and the dwarf Willows had now become +pale, but the _Sorbus_ (Mountain ash, _Pyrus aucuparia_, _Fl. Brit._) +had assumed a red hue, as well as all the mosses. (_Pedicularis_) +_Sceptrum Carolinum_ appeared every where by the roadside. _Thalictrum_ +(_flavum_) and _Scutellaria_ (_galericulata_) were less frequent, but +Golden-rod (_Solidago Virga aurea_), _Trollius_ (_europæus_), (_Spiræa_) +_Ulmaria_, and _Epilobium_ (_palustre_?) were plentiful, as was the +sweet _Milium_ (_effusum_), with the _Gramen ramosum_ (probably _Aira +cæspitosa_.) + +The inhabitants were in their smoky huts, with their eyes full of smoke, +and the tears running from them. Nevertheless they seemed more studious +of warmth than careful of their eyesight. + +The same sort of plough is used here as at Kimi. + +I had frequent views of the sea through the woods on the right hand. +Wherever the waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea with a triangular +stem, a white creeping perennial root, and thick leaves alternately +pinnate, (_Pisum maritimum_). + +Near Jö I noticed a pit-fall designed to catch wolves. This was dug in a +hill, at no great distance from the house. Around it within were eleven +pales or stakes, placed upright and close together. In the centre stood +a pole, which, as well as the pales, was on a level with the surface of +the ground. The pole supported a wheel, over which were laid boards, so +as entirely to cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf, when caught, +should be able to climb up as high as the wheel, he might not get any +further. + +The peasants of this upper part of East Bothnia, children of darkness in +their houses, are no less so in their slovenly appearance, chiefly owing +to their uncombed hair. Their breeches reach as low as the feet, and are +white, and they wear a sort of short cloak, sewed together in +front.--Their disposition is quarrelsome. Their habitations are infected +with a smell of sour fish, like sour Strœmming, for they are kept very +dirty. These people speak no other language than the Finlandish. + +Here and there by the road I had this day travelled, I noticed the Sea +Wheat-grass, (_Elymus arenarius._ See _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. _n._ 34.) + + +_September 18._ + +I travelled from Jö to Ulaborg. The rye was bound into sheaves, ten of +which were piled up together in a heap, the ears at the top of each +being brought close together, and another sheath being placed, in an +inverted position, upon them, the whole was sheltered from wet. The +barley was not set upright, but laid on one side, in such a manner that +the ears were all turned inward, and the straw stood outward all round. +On the top of each little stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was put, +as a kind of covering. + +[Illustration] + +The villages consisted of the same kind of smoky huts I have already +described. + +(The annexed cut seems to be a representation of one of these dwellings, +at which Linnæus was so indignant.) + +[Illustration] + +Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are collected from the shore, +which, though nothing but concretions of sand and small pebbles, are so +firm as to serve for the construction of ovens. At one spot, where the +river had excavated the sandy bank, it was evident that the cement, +which combines these particles together, is no other than a rust of +iron. The stones in general hereabouts are very fine-grained, and break +easily. They have all the appearance of containing a portion of iron. +Some were more rugged and rusty than the rest. + +A kind of boats used here to navigate rapid and dangerous parts of the +rivers, are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and are four or five +fathoms long, and about one broad in their middle. The sides are five or +six quarters of an ell deep; the extremities compressed. The middle of +the boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel being raised up, or +hollowed as it were by the dilatation of the sides, in which all the +importance and peculiarity of the contrivance consists, for without this +the vessel would be much more easily overset in rapid and shelvy places. +Some of these boats have no prominent keel at all; others are furnished +with a slight one, chiefly in their forepart, which is a little the +highest, in order to bear the better any shocks from striking against +stones; so that if this part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel may +go in safety. + +One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-fish, (_Salmo Lavaretus_, or +Gwiniad, before mentioned) are five spans high, and of a considerable +length, the meshes very small. There are loop-holes at the top, large +enough to admit two fingers, bordered with birch bark, whose edges are +sewn together. (See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones (5, 6, 7) at +the bottom are but small, covered with birch bark. The nets are set near +the sandy shore. + +[Illustration] + +Another kind of net, used for catching the same fish, is placed in the +strongest part of a current or water-fall. It resembles a receiving net, +except being not so deep. The length is three ells, breadth two, and +depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by means of poles, in the middle +of the very strongest and most confined current, against the stream, so +that when the fish attempts to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on +each side the net, he finds it impracticable, and is thrown back by the +force of the water, generally into the net, out of which he can never +escape, but is taken out at leisure. + +[Illustration] + +Near Ulaborg is a mineral spring, not yet made any use of. The taste of +the water seemed good. This spring is situated close to the town, on a +small island, where there is a sawing-mill. + +In the church I noticed the monument of Messenius, with his effigy made +to the life. He is actually buried here[14]. This church is one of the +longest I ever saw built of wood, but its height is not correspondent. +The arms of the town are displayed on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as +large as Lund. + + +_September 19._ + +After attending divine service I left this place. Sledges in use here +are constructed with a cross board to rest the feet against. (a, seems +to be a bandage or belt, to keep the traveller from being suddenly +jolted out of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the back or head +against; but there are no references in the manuscript to these letters +of the sketch.) + +[Illustration] + +I now came in sight of the extensive meadows of Limingo, more spacious +than all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rödbeck together. (Tuneld says +in his Geography, that the meadows of Limingo, and cornfields of the +neighbouring parish of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for their +great extent.) At first the land seemed a perfect marsh, filled with +Horsetail (_Equisetum fluviatile_), and especially with Reed, _Arundo_ +(_Phragmites_), which last grew in such abundance as to resemble a +forest. The Water Hemlock, _Cicutaria aquatica_, _Cicuta virosa_; (see +p. 136), was very plentiful by the road-side. This led me to inquire +whether the cattle ever fed there? I was answered by the peasants in the +affirmative, with a question in my turn, whether I could give them any +advice on the subject, for they had lost a great many; adding similar +particulars to what I had heard at Tornea. + +Red Currants (_Ribes rubrum_) grew all the way by the road, as well as +_Lenticula_ (_Lemna_ or Duck-weed), and the _Lichenoides_ of which +powder is made was observable on the trees. (_Lichen prunastri_, said to +have been used for hair-powder.) + +The meadow of Limingo is two miles in length. The best part of the +land, near the village of that name, was now occupied by the horned +cattle. The land here is more elevated and less marshy, though somewhat +impaired by tumps (of _Carex cæspitosa_). If but a third part of it were +cultivated, according to the Scanian mode of husbandry, it would be of +more value than the whole is at present. I was told that the whole marsh +might be laid dry, by cutting a channel down to the seashore; but it was +feared that the land might in consequence become covered with White Moss +(_Sphagnum palustre_), which would render it altogether unprofitable. + +About a thousand hay-cocks were now before me on the meadow, but none of +them consisting of more than a horse could draw. They never here use +more than a single horse or ox at a time for draught. Each of these +cocks was raised from the ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by +several cross poles. Some of the Water Iris (_Iris Pseud'acorus_) was +mixed with the hay. + +The milk-strainers are made of straw, and not very clean. + + +_September 20._ + +Brabestad, not far distant, is a small town, though twice the size of +Tornea, standing on a peninsula by the sea. + +In the hospital of Cronby are many maniacs, whose insanity is said to +have arisen from jealousy of the conduct of their wives. One of them, +whose wife was a very old woman, took this fancy, supposing her to +intrigue with several other men. Possibly in these cases impotence, or +perhaps some fantastic concupiscence, may have been a cause of the +derangement. + +About this neighbourhood it is the custom to administer to women in +labour a very nauseous medicine, which is called _Hittatran_, or Casual +Train-oil; so termed because it is obtained from the carcases of such +seals as, having been killed early in the spring, have been left among +the broken ice till they are by chance cast upon the shore. They are +consequently putrid, and the oil is so offensive, that few persons, +except such as are in great extremity, or not very nice, can be brought +to take it. In general Castor is here considered as a sheet-anchor in +such cases, as being found by long experience very effectual in bringing +on the labour-pains. Others take saffron infused in wine. For +after-pains they swallow, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood from the +umbilical cord, not only in the woman's first lying-in, but every +subsequent one. + +Some Finlanders, as I was told, have a method by which they pretend to +catch bears, with a sort of magic. This is done by procuring some of the +bear's dung, fresh and warm if possible, and mixing it with that of one +of their own cows. The consequence is said to be, that the bear will be +attracted by sympathy to come after the cow; an effect certainly not +more wonderful than many sympathies upon record. + +There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhejorki which is called _Muicu_. +Bishop Terserus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says that he has seen at +this place a fish named _Muicu_, which is no other than the _Blikta_, +taken in the lake of Silian in his native country. How true this may be +I know not, but I saw plainly that this _Muicu_ is the _Small Sijk_ +(_Salmo Albula_), such as is found in Smoland. + +The following figure represents a plough used here, drawn by an ox. The +share, a, is of iron, a span long. The part b is four spans high; c is +four spans long; d and e, three spans each; f, g, four spans. The ends +of the shafts are connected by a curved piece of wood, which keeps them +from the shoulders of the animal, and supports them. + +[Illustration] + + +_September 21._ + +Being the feast of St. Matthew the apostle, I went to church at Gambla +Carleby. Here is an introductory school, to prepare children for that at +Cronby. + +I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a remarkably good harbour. Ships +are able to load and unload close to the quay. + + +_September 22._ + +Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town of New Carleby, which is +nearly as big as Wexiö. Every one of the streets is laid with timbers, +placed cross-wise, instead of stones, like a bridge, which has a +handsome appearance. The harbour of this place is near the river, a +quarter of a mile from the town. Vessels when laden indeed can scarcely +come within half a mile. On the shore lay vast piles of wood, destined +to be conveyed to Stockholm for fuel. + +The country-people have, in every one of their mills, an instrument made +of six or seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut chaff into small +pieces in a trough, in order to grind it afterwards with their barley. + +_Rotkäl_ (_Brassica oleracea_ κ, Sp. Pl. 932, _Napo brassica_, or +Stalk-cabbage) is dried for winter use; when it is boiled, and given +with the liquor to the cattle. + +The women at this place wear a hood, or neckcloth, as they call it, of +grey walmal cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied with a black +ribband in the fore part. When they ride on horseback, they carry the +whip slung at their back. + +[Illustration] + +To stir up the pot, when boiling, they use a stick with several +projecting bits of wood at the bottom, (not unlike a chocolate-mill,) +which is rolled between their hands. + +In the evening of this day I arrived at Wasa. + + +_September 23._ + +I went to church at Wasa, and visited also the palace, situated on the +south-west side of the city, the school, and other public buildings. +This is a handsome little town enough. It is the residence of the +governor. + +Not far from the town, and indeed close to the walls, is a reputed +copper-mine, the working of which was discontinued, after an excavation +had been made to the depth of five or six fathoms. The ore has a +glittering micaceous appearance, and gives a stain like black lead. The +sand about it is a loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed. I do not +indeed believe that it contains any copper or other metal; which seems +to have been the opinion of those who so soon gave over the pursuit. + +The rustics here trust to three doctors, Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and +Pallavinus. (By a chemical sign annexed, it appears that Linnæus here +meant brandy, but the word itself is not explained.) + +This day being Sunday, I saw the girls all going bare-headed to church. +They each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat, supported by broad +coloured ribbands, the ends of which hung down. + + +_September 24._ + +In my way from New Carleby to this place (the day before yesterday) I +had observed a kind of plough in use, different from any I had before +seen. This was almost always drawn by a horse, seldom by an ox. The +latter, when used, had the same harness as the horse, but without a +girth. Over its back indeed passes a band like a saddle-girth, which is +kept upon the neck of the animal to prevent the harness sliding +forward; but for horses they use no such thing. See the figure. + +[Illustration] + +The shoes worn at this place in some measure resemble half-boots. The +soles are of untanned leather, with the hair upon it; the upper leathers +made of tanned seal-skin, and tied round the ankle with strings. (A +representation of one of these shoes accompanies the last figure.) + +_Hypericum_ (_perforatum_), _Scrophularia_ (_nodosa_), _Bidens_ +(_cernua_?) occurred to me here, for the first time in all my journey. +The three species of _Ribes_ (_rubrum_, _alpinum_ and _nigrum_,) were in +prodigious abundance. + + +_September 25._ + +At sun-rise I took my departure from Wasa. The pines in the forest were +stripped of their bark, so that vast tracts were covered with nothing +but such naked trees. No more was left on each trunk, to the height of +three ells or three and a half, than a small strip of bark, about the +breadth of four fingers, generally on the north side, to prevent its +being ... (here is a word not to be decyphered). The trees are left +standing for six or seven years afterwards, and are then cut down close +to the roots, being also headed a little above the naked part. The +heads or branches either serve for firing, or, as often happens, are +left to rot on the ground. + +Three miles below Wasa I recognised the Climbing Nightshade (_Solanum +Dulcamara_). In the town itself I had noticed (_Leonurus_) _Cardiaca_, +and Henbane (_Hyoscyamus niger_). Near the shore grew _Salix oleæfolia_ +with its berries, _(Hippophaë rhamnoides_). It is known by the name of +_Finnbær_ or _Surbær_, (Finn-berries, or Sour berries). The fruit is +situated below the leaves, as in the Alder. The footstalks are two lines +long. Berries bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour, three or four +lines long, smooth, sour, having a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous +matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong, slightly compressed, obtuse, +attached by its lower edge to a membrane which enfolds it. When this +cover is removed, the seed itself appears brown and polished, having a +longitudinal groove at each side. The fishermen eat these berries +bruised, by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I thought them rather +too acid. + + +_September 26._ + +I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but before coming to that place, +noticed at Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which had formerly +been a fine meadow, the soil being extremely good. But at present it was +so entirely overrun with tumps (originally perhaps formed of _Carex +cæspitosa_) that it produced little or nothing. These tumps were crowded +almost over one another, and were overgrown by _Polytrichum_ +(Hair-moss), which had come to its full stature, and rendered most of +them nearly black. There was scarcely room for the cattle to make their +way to any food between the tumps. + +In the passages of all the houses hung nets, used for catching bears. +These are made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner bark of the lime-tree, +_Tilia europæa_,) full as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes when +stretched are each three quarters of an ell wide. The height of the net +is equal to the stature of a man. Such nets, supported by poles, are set +up in a line of one hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side close to +the ground. The bear is driven into them by the people hunting him on +all sides. + + +_September 27._ + +This day I observed a mode of brewing in a kneading trough, which stood +on a table, and its end being made so as to slide up and down, the wort +is easily poured out. + +Below the town of Christina, I first found the _Lathyrus viciæformis_ +(_L. palustris_), and Water Cresses, (_Sisymbrium Nasturtium_); also +_Campanula persicifolia_ and (_Sedum_) _Telephium_. + + +_September 28._ + +I was glad when I had done with the very bad road which extends from +the Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl, towards Biorreborg; a +highway it cannot be called, for it is exactly like the road between the +town of Umoea and Granoen. (See _v._ 1. 141.) + +Near Sastmola I first recognised the _Acer_ (_platanoides_) and _Filix +fœmina ramosa_ (_Aspidium Filix-fœmina_?) + +The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl lies along the coast. The grass +here was remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of plants; as the _Ribes +insipidum_ (_alpinum_), called by the inhabitants _Degbaer_, in the +greatest abundance. (_Viburnum_) _Opulus_ and (_Lonicera_) _Xylosteum_ +here first re-appeared after my long absence. + +N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer informs us grows on this island, with +blackish-brown berries, may perhaps be the _Xylosteum_, as the colour of +the leaves seemed to agree very well. (Were it not for the above +indication of the colour of the berries, it might, from the _Flora +Suecica_, be suspected that Linnæus had, in these two paragraphs, +written by mistake _Xylosteum_ for _Periclymenum_.) + +The alpine Stone Bramble, _Rubus saxatilis_, was extremely plentiful; +and the Cultivated Hop (_Humulus Lupulus_), growing wild, afforded me +great pleasure, as I contemplated its ingenious manner of curling round +the Aspen trees (_Populus tremula_). Here also (_Anemone_) _Hepatica_, +and the _Cracca_ with toothed wings (_stipulæ_) and striated flowers, +(_Vicia sylvatica_,) as well as the _Orobus vernus_, once more greeted +me. The grass with a dense spike-like panicle, whose stems serve for +cleaning the inside of tobacco-pipes, (_Agrostis arundinacea_,) grows +copiously in this part of the country; and reached higher than my head. +The marshes abound with _Iris_ (_Pseud-acorus_) and with _Cyperus_ +(probably _Scirpus maritimus_). + +The greater part of the road I had travelled hitherto from Kimi lay so +near the shore, that, even in the woody parts of it, the sea was +frequently visible through the forests. + + +_September 29._ + +I travelled the whole of Michaelmas-day. + +When a Finlander has fired at a bear, he immediately runs to one side, +for the animal, if not killed, is sure to run directly forward, towards +the smoke; by which means the man escapes out of his reach. + +The peasants who reside near the cliffs or rising ground judge by the +crows (_Corvus Cornix_), of the approach of bad weather; for these birds +seek the marshy country in the evening, before it comes on. + +Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound with sculls. I reckoned forty of them +in one heap. This churchyard is built round, after the old fashion. + +On entering one of the stove-huts of the inhabitants here, it was so +hot, that I thought my nose would have been burnt off. Nevertheless, the +people within seemed comfortable enough, and the boys, clad in skins, +were running up and down the couch. The stove is constructed like that +of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is piled a great heap of flat +stones, to the height of a man. The old women sit in these huts half +naked. + +Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river almost navigable. In some parts, +as I was told, it is nine fathoms deep, and in one place is a ferry +across this river. Half a mile from hence southward, close to the road, +between two small bridges which are near each other, I noticed a +sand-hill of very fine sand, in differently-coloured strata, some white, +others reddish-purple. + +In the evening I arrived at the town of Abo, which is as large as +Orebro, and well built. It has often been ruined by the enemy, and often +burnt down by accidental fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise, +might easily happen from the stoves of the huts. I remarked that these +stoves were less lofty than some I had seen, and that several stones lay +loosely piled on one another above the opening, which serve to retain +the heat. + + +_September 30._ + +The Finnish liquor called _Lura_ is prepared like other beer, except not +being boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are thrown into it. Hence +its purgative quality from the iron. + +Here I saw a flying squirrel (_Sciurus volans_) from Tavasthia. + +The long black rat, with a white lower lip, catches birds, both on trees +and in the water. He holds fast by his claws, and bites with his four +prominent teeth. The Finlanders call this animal _Mink_. (This seems to +be _Viverra Lutreola_, Faun. Suec. ed. 2. 5.) + +A quarter of a mile from the city is a mineral spring, of which Tillands +has taken notice. (See _v._ 1. 43, _note_.) It is older than that of +Medevi (near Vadstena). The current is so strong that one of the +burghers of the city has built a mill, to which the water is led, but it +does not always go. Near the town a mine has lately been opened, +containing iron here and there, with small quantities of pyrites. The +mountain itself is a black mica, immediately adjoining to the city. + +The library here is miserable. There are two colleges close together. + + +_October 5._ + +I departed from Abo. The corn-fields of Finland are beautiful, and +resemble those of East Gothland in their wide extent and level surface. + +There are regular ferry boats at stated times to take passengers to the +isle of Aland. + + +_October 6._ + +I arrived at the place, near Brandoen, where I was to go on board the +ferry-boat. The shore is a red rock. Passed over to the island of Aland, +the whole of which consists of the same kind of red rock. The palace of +Castelholm, at present falling fast into ruins, is built of this sort of +stone. + +The women use for dyeing a sort of rock _Lichenoides_, of a brown +stercoraceous colour, (perhaps _Lichen stygius_, or _omphalodes_,) which +they boil in water with alum. But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed +without alum. Some add a little Arnotto (_Bixa Orelana_). + +Shoes like short half-boots are worn here made of seal-skin. + + +_October 7._ + +In the evening of this day I passed over the plain of Aland. There were +abundance of Finn-berries (_Hippophaë rhamnoides_) by the road. + + +_October 8._ + +I sailed over the sea of Aland. + + +_October 9._ + +Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been opened. About the church are +sundry sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the small surrounding hills, +as well as at Musangen, very fine and lofty plants of juniper +resembling cypresses, the branches erect and close, assuming a conical +or pyramidal figure. + + +_October 10._ + +About one o'clock in the afternoon I arrived safe at Upsal. + +To the Maker and Preserver of all things be praise, honour and glory for +ever! + + * * * * * + +Some observations relative to the Seal, _Phoca vitulina_. + +There are two kinds (or varieties) of this animal. The _Gră Siăl_ (Grey +Seal) is the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and slightly clouded on +the back. The _Wikare Siăl_ (Creek Seal) is smaller, black on the back, +and very cloudy or wavy at the sides. Otherwise there is no difference +between them. + +The whelp at its birth is perfectly white, being covered with white hair +about an inch long, which it loses in four or five weeks, and becomes +quite black. At the same period it acquires more activity and shyness +than at first. The upper fore teeth are six, very small, resembling +those of a dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at their outer edge, as +in the dog, and furnished with a little notch at their base. Grinders +six. Whiskers remarkably large. There are two nipples a little below the +navel, which the female has a power of drawing in, so as to leave holes +large enough to admit the finger. She lets them out at pleasure to her +young one. + +The seal lies on its back while sleeping, either on the ice or on rocks. +They couple soon after the feast of St. Matthew, September 21; and the +grey seal brings forth its young in January, the creek seal in February. +The male runs round and round the female many times, with a yelping +noise, being very careful not to be observed. + +When the female has young, the male is very savage, and continually +attends to protect her. She brings forth but one at a birth, which at +first is dull and stupid, easily caught. If thrown into the water, +however, he exerts himself with some activity, and returns to the shore, +not having as yet acquired any shyness. But by the time all his first +coat of white hair is fallen off, he begins to be timid. The growth of +the young seals is very rapid. + +The seal, when out of the water, can hardly distinguish objects at half +a quarter of a mile's distance at the utmost. But in foggy and dull +weather he sees better than in sunshine. He never remains in the water +during moon-light nights. His hearing is acute though he has no external +ears, and his scent is also very quick. He can remain under water for +nearly half a quarter of an hour; but by that time he must, at the peril +of his life, come to the surface to breathe, which he often does within +a fathom of the shore, and he afterwards spouts out water. + +Nets for catching seals are set right out into the sea, from some +promontory, to the distance of twenty fathoms. These are examined every +morning, to see what is caught. They are chiefly set from St. +Bartholomew (August 24), when the moon is in her wane, till over St. +Matthew's day, September 21. + +Grey seals are hunted in winter till Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, +often in great numbers, close to a hole which they have made in it. When +they come out of the water by this opening upon the surface of the ice, +the water they bring with them freezes about its margin, so that in time +the edges become elevated, and it looks like a well. If it should freeze +over, they travel to the south-west, till they can get at water, always +proceeding straight forward, even though they meet with mountains in +their way; and they return in the same direct line back again. The +hunters go with large poles, carefully approaching the creek seal till +they get near enough to fire at him before he is aware. The grey seal +is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon. + +The seals are able to penetrate through the ice from beneath, lying on +their backs under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot make their way +into it from above. + +END OF THE TOUR. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o I. + + + + +A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND, + + Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in the Year 1732, at the + Expense of the Royal Academy (of Upsal); by CHARLES LINNÆUS, Student + of Physic and of Natural History, as drawn up by Himself to lay + before the said Academy. + + +The Royal Academy of Sciences having, last Spring, permitted my humble +memorial to be laid before them, respecting the project of a journey to +Lapland, with a view to the improvement of natural history, and having +honoured the same with their approbation, appointing me to undertake +the expedition. I feel it my duty, after having accomplished my journey, +most respectfully to present to the Academy a narrative thereof. + +For the sake of brevity and clearness I shall divide my subject into +three parts. + +1st, A journal of my tour. + +2d, The expenses incurred. + +3d, The advantages likely to accrue. + + + + +I. THE JOURNAL. + + +_May 12, 1732._ + +Having received my instructions from the Royal Academy of Sciences, with +a passport from the Government, and having prepared every thing +necessary for my journey, I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, from +this place (Upsal), carrying with me nothing but what was absolutely +necessary, in order that I might not be detained or interrupted, in case +of not being able always to procure a horse, but might occasionally +pursue my way on foot. As the summer seemed to be fast advancing, I +thought it not advisable to lose time by the way, nor to stray far from +the road, in the early part of the tour, but only to observe attentively +what readily presented itself, that I might reach Lapland with all +possible dispatch. + + +_May 13._ + +By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, where I was obliged to stay all +that day, for it was evening before I received from the governor of the +province (of Gestrickland) the requisite passport, which was accompanied +by orders to all the public officers in his district to give me all +requisite assistance to penetrate, if possible, into Asila Lapmark. + + +_May 14._ + +Owing to the above delay, and my attending morning service the next day +at Gefle church, I could not quit that place till one o'clock. +Proceeding without stopping to Hudwickswald, I there merely spoke a few +words to Mr. Broman the clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby Knylen, +the highest mountain in Medelpad, from whence I went to Sundswall, and +further. In my way I examined a cave formed by nature in a very hard +rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for thieves and highwaymen. + +I was so unfortunate, in my journey through Medelpad, as not to meet +with a single horse that did not tumble with me several times, in +consequence of which I was at one time so severely hurt as to be +scarcely able to remount. Having already collected together a number of +stones and minerals, which were no less burthensome than unnecessary to +carry along with me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I left these +incumbrances. I did not, however, stay there above two hours. + + +_May 20._ + +At length I reached the famous mountain of Skula in Angermanland, at the +very top of which is a large grotto, so neatly formed by nature that +art could scarcely have excelled it. This grotto was represented to me +as quite inaccessible, and it was said that not more than two or three +persons had ever been there; nor was it without great difficulty that I +prevailed on two men to accompany me, every body deeming the project +impracticable. As we climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept forwards, +sometimes slid back again. Now we mounted a considerable way by catching +hold of branches and roots of trees, and then, meeting with steep +inaccessible rocks, were obliged to turn back. After following one of my +guides for about two hours, I thought the other seemed to make more +progress; which induced me to go after the latter. I was scarcely got +two ells out of my former path, than the man whose track I had left +loosened a large stone with his foot, which fell on the very spot I had +quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded by fire and smoke, +and should certainly, but for the protecting hand of Providence, have +been crushed to pieces. We reached the grotto at length, after much +labour and trouble, and descended the mountain with much greater +facility. Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which grew close to the +rocks, we slid down upon them, dragging them after us down the +precipices. + + +_May 23._ + +I at length, after twelve days journey, reached Umoea. + +It had originally been my design to go to Asila Lapmark, in order to +observe what plants are able to endure the very hard winters of that +region, but I was obliged to change my plan. The summer would not have +been long enough, nor my stock of money sufficient to enable me to reach +that most northern part of the country, where the severity of the +climate is augmented by the cold north wind and the vast snowy +mountains. I applied, therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of Umoea, +for a passport to the nearer parts of Lapland, which was immediately +granted. This gentleman showed the greatest readiness to befriend me, +and appeared to take much interest in the success of my undertaking. He +gave such orders as might cause the public officers in Lapland to lay no +obstacles in my way, but rather to assist me by every means in their +power. He himself gave me much curious information, and showed me his +own garden, that I might observe what plants would stand the winter +here: concluding by expressing, in the most flattering terms, his +approbation of my appointment. + + +_May 25._ + +The following morning I set out on my way towards Lapmark. Leaving the +highway, I came to one of the most unpleasant roads I ever travelled. It +was covered with stones, betwixt which were thick entangled roots of +trees, and among them were deep holes full of water. The whole ground +was a marsh, which the frost was at this time just about quitting. Large +pine-trees, that had been blown down in the course of the stormy winter, +frequently crossed my path; and the more flexible birches, weighed down +by the snow, interrupted my course on all sides. I frequently came to +such steep heathy places that my horse could scarcely climb or descend +them, and in the bottoms between them were marshy tracts, with rivulets +destitute of bridges, so that my beast slipped down several times; and +as I passed the streams, the water reached up to my saddle. I then +regretted, what I had in the former part of my journey so much detested, +travelling on the high-way on these stumbling horses, and would rather +have descended the steepest hill in Angermannia than have chosen the +present road, for at every step the horse took, I thought he would have +fallen. + +In the evening of + + +_May 28,_ + +however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven +miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having +reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night. + + +_May 29._ + +The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as +Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five +miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve. + + +_May 30._ + +Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the +minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to +wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me +to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had +made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might +meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming +unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast. +Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence +of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that +account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the +colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one +of the native Laplanders. + + +_May 31._ + +The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with +me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of +provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh +of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I +well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals +or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our +boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my +own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise. + + +_June 1._ + +Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander, +we left our boat on the shore of the river, and went in search of this +man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or +enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met, +however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other +resided. + +Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here +in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future +guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had +met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However, +about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of +me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and +fresh water. + +I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to +a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not +dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had +to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite destitute of +provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing +but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, +nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their +reindeer. + + +_June 2._ + +On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to +proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by +falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further, +which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After +walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a +mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our +knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we +often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in +vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a +little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former, +and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken +than to pass this place, especially as the elements were all adverse, +for it blowed and rained violently. + + +_June 3._ + +By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we +still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could +proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and +having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of +taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me +on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the +gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to +sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had +set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could +not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in +case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however, +he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair +hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely +think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this +woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou +poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest +thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger +here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to +go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish, +without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what +she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which +she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed +heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether, +and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This +woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and +that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke +of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have +undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now +not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path, +whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In +traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, +and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer +cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman +refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My +hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was +induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling +her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it +not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the +most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion, +and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the +course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth, +undertaken more than it was possible to perform. + +We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great +velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to +an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the +boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found +ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon +landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet +and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea +cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or +_Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_, +see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island +to the shore. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out +of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the +river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist, +who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to +Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the +8th of June arrived at Umoea. + + +_June 12._ + +Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived +after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as +the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the +principal clergyman of the place. + + +_June 19._ + +I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring +coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however +I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I +was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of +reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the +horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at +Tornea. + + +_June 25._ + +Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I +continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights, +having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are +excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which +are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of +their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the passengers are not +careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and +three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I +received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions +sufficient to last me for eight days. + + +_July 6._ + +After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended +_Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is +indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who +served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his +assistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on +these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I +willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant +for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part +of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted +less to assist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient +incumbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into +the bargain. + +On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here +were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger +and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor +any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to +shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the +mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the +Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young +along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering +influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in +the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun +never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by +climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could +see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the grass +and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all +nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these +vegetable rarities, while the time passed unperceived away, and my +interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles +to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any +rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded +therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes passing along their +precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and +for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening +of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was +at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception, +and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between. +Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight +hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the +milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for +my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in +his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to +have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a +mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon. + +After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I +steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea, +proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the +country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me +to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that +side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had +no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me, +accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy +crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the +cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer +skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more +favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence +the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very +delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding +its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest +trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps, +it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our +calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance. +At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so +stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings +than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and +beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the +tall grass reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild +fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps, +seemed to refresh me both in mind and body. + +Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the +house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a +boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the +celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find nobody +willing to venture near it. + +We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind +proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with +rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions, +zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied +every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr. +Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception. + +Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind +exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place +from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour +for that purpose. + +On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains, +with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in +perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a +stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small +distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so, +thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined. +Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a +considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a +second time, and I determined never to go there again without some +protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked +attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the +subject. + +On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was +employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and +exhaustion, the ground we had to pass over being so extremely steep as +well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had +sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves. + +From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were +described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the +course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps +was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and +how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst +evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were +enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes +rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very +circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This +fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment, +for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive +heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but +it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting +snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the +inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their +huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable +distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this +inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several +days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The +rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread, +and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of +costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to +return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the +course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow, +without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy +crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable +to assist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so +hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not +in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able +to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh +in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of +my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before. + +At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without +tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential +support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of +it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I +remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards +descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north +of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our +voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to +overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved +ourselves, and it being night, nobody heard our cries for assistance. + +The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner +of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea. + +Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from +thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I +entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I +found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles +back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town +of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district, +and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a +boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as +the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn, +and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to +see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick +passage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as +I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to +enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I +considered that in a new country there is always something new to be +seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford +but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination, +at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea +voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, +had long been waiting for a fair wind. + +I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and +Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina, +Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I +then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on +the 10th of October reached Upsal. + +The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 +English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined. + + Miles. + From Upsal to Umoea 60 + Umoea to Lycksele 12 + Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25 + From thence again to Umoea 37 + From Umoea to Pithoea 22 + Pithoea to Longoen 3 + Back again to Pithoea 3 + From thence to Lulea 5 + Lulea to Quickjock 33 + Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25 + From thence to the Norway coast 10 + Excursion by sea, and back again, 14 + From Norway to Caitum 40 + From Caitum to Quickjock 40 + Quickjock to Tornea 47 + Tornea to Kimi 5 + From hence to Maxaniemi 5 + Maxaniemi to Calix 9 + Calix to Kengis 32 + Kengis to Jonesvando 40 + Jonesvando to Tornea 26 + Tornea to Abo 100 + Abo to Upsal 40 + ----- + 633 + +(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the +advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this +"brief narrative," are not found in the manuscript.) + + + + +APPENDIX. + +N^o II. + + +The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a +view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was +translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly +communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany +the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It +is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication +I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnæus, to the +work of his master. Many remarks from him have assisted me in the course +of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his +inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a +foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native +Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every +part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of +my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take +advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual +conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged +to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, +because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use." + +The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of +observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not +only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least +taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and +unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to +English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What +we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank +amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting class, one +of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it. + + * * * * * + +Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which +describes a separate line of elevation. + +1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjäll_), we first arrive at the +line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had +previously assumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, +covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy +object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, +before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity. +With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, +&c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of +_Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and +_Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ +(Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the +rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up. +The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual +snow, and the mean temperature is about 3° of Celsius's thermometer +(37-1/2 of Fahrenheit). + +2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so +tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their +branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum palustre_, +_Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a +very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows +_Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the +berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well. +_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), +soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when +the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, +and the mean temperature about 2,°5 of Celsius (36-1/2 of Fahrenheit.) A +little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual +snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which +live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for +instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips +grow large enough to be worth cultivating. + +3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its +short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem +prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light +green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of +vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be +entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, +where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is +2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much +wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, +_Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little +before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus +Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any +fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, +_Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the +reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest. +Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, +_Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The +drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago +frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the +utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is +found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases. + +4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjäll_ (Alps). Near +rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, +consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament +to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking +_Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper +bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about. +Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda +cærulea_ and _Trientalis europæa_. The more boggy ground is decorated +with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis +lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has +the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris +crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet +of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no +higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamæmorus_ still ripen here, +but not at a greater degree of elevation. + +5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not +above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is +of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier +situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed +with the rather brown than green _Azalea procumbens_ and _Azalea +lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant +spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, +produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus +leontinus_[17] and _montanus_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places +_Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are +observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of +elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large +as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary +of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The +Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for +their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean +temperature is about +1° of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit). + +6. Next come the snowy alps, where are patches of snow that never melt. +The bare places between still produce a few dark shrubby plants, such as +_Empetrum nigrum_, but destitute of berries, _Andromeda tetragona_ and +_hypnoides_, as well as _Diapensia lapponica_. Green precipices exposed +to the sun are decorated with the vivid azure tints of _Gentiana +tenella_ and _nivalis_, and _Campanula uniflora_, accompanied by the +yellow _Draba alpina_. Colder and marshy situations, where there is no +reflected heat, produce _Pedicularis hirsuta_ and _flammea_, with _Dryas +octopetala_. This zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of +perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow. + +7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to cover the greatest part of the +ground, and we soon arrive at a point where only a few dark spots are +here and there to be seen. This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock at +the elevation of 4100 feet above the sea; but nearer the highest ridge, +and particularly on the Norway side of that ridge, at 3100 feet. Some +few plants, with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered over the spongy +brown surface of the ground, where the reflected heat is strongest, +quite up to the line of uninterrupted snow. These are _Saxifraga +stellaris_, _rivularis_ and _oppositifolia_, _Ranunculus nivalis_ and +_glacialis_, _Rumex digynus_, _Juncus curvatus_[18] and _Silene +acaulis_. The mean temperature at the boundary of perpetual snow is ++0,°4 of Celsius, (32-3/4 of Fahrenheit). + +8. Above the line of perpetual snow, the cold is occasionally so much +diminished, that a few plants of _Ranunculus glacialis_, and other +similar ones, may now and then be found, in the clefts of some dark rock +rising through the snow. This happens even to the height of 500 feet +above that line. Further up the snow is very rarely moistened. Yet some +umbilicated Lichens (_Gyrophoræ_), &c., still occur in the crevices of +perpendicular rocks, even to the height of 2000 feet above the line of +perpetual snow. These are the utmost limits of all vegetation, where the +mean temperature seems to be +1,°1 of Celsius (30 of Fahrenheit). The +Snow Bunting, _Emberiza nivalis_, is the only living being that visits +this elevated spot. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Abo, ii. 230. + _Acer platanoides_, ii. 227. + Aconite, yellow, i. 36. + _Aconitum lycoctonum_, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii. 79, 123, 277. + Adam and Eve, i. 28. + _Adoxa moschatellina_, i. 37. + _Agaricus_, i. 151, 152, 177. ii. 158. + _Agrostis arundinacea_, ii. 228. + ---- _rubra_, ii. 91. + Agues, i. 29, 180. + _Aira alpina_, ii. 279. + Aland, ii. 233. + _Alca Torda_, i. 64, 65. + Alder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277. + _Alnus incana_, ii. 277. + _Alopecurus geniculatus_, ii. 92. + Alps, Lapland, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to determine their height, ii. 272. + _Amanita_, ii. 158. + Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50-58. + _Anas arctica_, i. 65. + _Andromeda cærulea_, i. 272. ii. 278. + ---- _hypnoides_, i. 320. ii. 280. + ---- _polifolia_, i. 23, 188, 189. + ---- _tetragona_, ii. 28, 29, 280. + _Anemone Hepatica_, i. 11, 32. ii. 228. + ---- _ranunculoides_, i. 11. + ---- _vernalis_, i. 15. + _Angelica Archangelica_, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 171, 316. ii. 76. + Angermanland, i. 48. + Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83. + _Anthericum calyculatum_, i. 257. + _Apis terrestris_, i. 159. + Apple-trees, i. 61. + _Arabis thaliana_, i. 33. + _Aranea palustris_, } + ---- _riparia_, } i. 258. + _Arbutus alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _Uva ursi_, i. 7, 23, 250. + _Ardea cinerea_, ii. 255. + _Arena Glarea_, i. 7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166. + ---- _mobilis_, i. 16. + _Artemisia vulgaris_, ii. 201. + _Arum_, i. 200. + _Arundo Calamagrostis_, ii. 90. + ---- _Phragmites_, ii. 275. + Ash, i. 68. + Aspen, i. 77, 179. + _Aspidium Filix-fœmina_, ii. 227. + _Asplenium Trichomanes_, i. 55. + _Astragalus alpinus_, i. 160, 256, 366. ii. 2. + ---- _leontinus_, ii. 279. + ---- _montanus_, ii. 279. + _Azalea lapponica_, i. 299. ii. 279. + ---- _procumbens_, i. 285. ii. 279. + + + B. + + _Bannisteria._ See _Diapensia_. + Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77. + ---- pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + ---- willow used for tanning, i. 80. + ---- birch used for tanning, i. 249. + Barley, i. 57, 67, 73. + _Bartramia fontana_, i. 181-184. + ---- _pomiformis_, i. 13, 38. + _Bartsia alpina_, ii. 119. + Bears, ii. 215, 275. + Beaver, i. 88-91. + Beech, i. 68. + _Betula alba_, i. 48. + ---- _incana_, i. 48. ii. 277. + ---- _nana_, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50, 278, 279. + _Bicornes_, i. 22. + Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208. + Birch, common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 80, 100, 115, 202. ii. 276. + ---- dwarf, i, 19, 126, 139. + Bird-traps, i. 179. + _Bixa Orelana_, ii. 233. + Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217. + Boat, Lapland, i. 98. + Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, 167. + _Boletus igniarius_, used as a pincushion, i. 85. + ---- _suaveolens_, employed as a perfume, i. 151. + Bothland, East, ii. 151-166, 201-232. + Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 51, 58, 201. + Brandy, i. 28, 122, 157. ii. 147. + _Brassica oleracea_, ii. 219. + Bream, i. 27. + _Bryum bimum_, i. 185. + ---- _pomiforme_, i. 13. + Buck-bean, i. 86, 200. + Buck-wheat, i. 166. + Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282. + Burnet, i. 220. + Butter, i. 110. + _Byssus_, i. 84, 156. + ---- _cryptarum_, i. 47, 55. + ---- _flos aquæ_, i. 4. + ---- _Jolithus_, i. 26. + ---- red, i. 26. + + + C. + + _Calla palustris_, i. 200, 245, 350. + _Callitriche autumnalis_, i. 62. + ---- _verna_, i. 62. + _Caltha palustris_, i. 5, 68. + _Cameraria_, i. 176. + _Campaniformes_, i. 10. + _Campanula persicifolia_, ii. 226. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, i. 20, 37. + ---- _uniflora_, ii. 280. + _Canis Vulpes_, i. 71. + Caper, Swedish, i. 5. + _Carex_, i. 5, 167. + ---- _cæspitosa_, ii. 225. + ---- _globularis_, ii. 275. + ---- _panicea_, ii. 98. + ---- _sylvatica_, i. 276. ii. 21, 46. + ---- _ustulata_, ii. 279. + Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. 215. + Cataract of Elf-Carleby, i. 12. + Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52. + Chaff, eaten by the peasants, i. 169. + _Chamædaphne_, i. 188. + Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363. + _Charadrius Hiaticula_, i. 93, 323. + Charr, i. 128. ii. 277. + Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197. + Cherries, i. 62. + _Chrysomela graminis_, i. 48. + ---- _lapponica_, i. 77. + _Chrysosplenium alternifolium_, i. 9. + Church tyranny, i. 157. + Church at Lulea, i. 239. + _Cicindela sylvatica_, i. 175. + _Cicuta virosa_, i. 246. ii. 136, 143. + Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62. + Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158. + Clay, i. 31, 73. + Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203. + Club-moss, i. 20. + _Coccinella trifasciata_, i. 179. + Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93. + _Colymbus arcticus_, i. 27, 176. ii. 98, 151. + ---- _auritus_, i. 118. + _Comarum palustre_, i. 158. + _Confervæ_, i. 336. + _Convallaria bifolia_, i. 58. ii. 274. + Cookery, i. 248; + performed by the men, i. 132. + _Coralloides_, i. 8, 84. + _Corallorrhiza_, i. 223, 245. ii. 47. + Corals, petrified, i. 30. + _Cornus suecica_, i. 177, 189. + _Corvus Cornix_, ii. 229. + ---- _glandarius_, ii. 110. + ---- _infaustus_, ii. 109, 255. + _Cos molaris_, i. 30. + Costmary, i. 220. + Cotton-Rush, i. 68. + Cradles, different kinds of, i. 190. + Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. 26. + Cranberries, i. 208. + Cranes, i. 94. + Cross-bills, i. 70. + Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62. + _Cuculus canorus_, i. 23, 319. + _Culex pipiens_, i. 159. + ---- _pulicaris_, i. 238, 251. + ---- _reptans_, i. 209, 251. ii. 115. + _Cypræa_, ii. 191. + _Cyprinus Aphya_, i. 102. + ---- _Brama_, i. 27. + _Cypripedium Calceolus_, ii. 112. + + + D. + + _Daphne_, i. 23. + _Dermestes murinus_, i. 206. + _Diapensia lapponica_, i. 285. ii. 280. + _Dillenia_. See _Azalea_. + Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. 32-35. + ---- of cattle, i. 245. + Diver, black-throated, i. 27. + _Draba alpina_, ii. 280. + ---- _verna_, i. 5. + Dress, travelling, of Linnæus, i. 1. + ---- of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326-335. ii. 10, 110, 144-150. + _Dryas octopetala_, ii. 280. + Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118. + Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170. + _Dytiscus natator_, i. 100. + + + E. + + East Bothland, ii. 151-166. 201-232. + Elf-Carleby, i. 15. + Elm, common, i. 22, 68. + _Elymus arenarius_, ii. 204. + _Emberiza Hortulanus_, i. 71. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 71. ii. 97, 282. + _Empetrum nigrum_, i. 138, 139, 152. ii. 26, 280. + _Empis borealis_, i. 87, 179. + _Ephemera_, i. 73, 177. + _Epilobium augustifolium_, ii. 87. + ---- _palustre_ β, i. 283. + _Equisetum hyemale_, i. 121. + _Erica vulgaris_, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. 119, 277. + _Erigeron uniflorum_, ii. 279. + _Eriophorum alpinum_, i, 177, 254. + ---- _polystachion_, i. 68. + ---- _vaginatum_, i. 68. + _Erysimum Barbarea_, i. 255, 267. β, i. 72. + + + F. + + Festivals, i. 114, 157. + Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29. + Fir, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202. + ---- spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202. + Fisheries, i. 128, 163. + Flax, i. 200. + Flesh-fly, i. 159. + Food of the Laplanders, i. 154. + Foxes, i. 71, 250. + Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79. + _Fringilla Montifringilla_, i. 23, 29. + Frogs, imagined to live in a woman's stomach, i. 111. + Frog-spittle, i. 214. + _Fucus_, i. 336. ii. 263. + _Fumaria bulbosa minima_, i. 37. + Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 12. + + + G. + + Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231. + Gad-fly, i. 215. + _Gadus virens_, i. 341. + Gale, sweet, i. 19. + _Galium boreale_, ii. 275. + _Gentiana nivalis_, ii. 280. + ---- _tenella_, ii. 280. + _Geranium sylvaticum_, i. 283. + Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. 241. + _Glires_, i. 89. + Glirr, i. 102. + Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238. + Goosander, i. 94-96. + Granite, i. 9, 30, 35. + Grayling, i. 61. + Grebe, little-eared, i. 118. + Grous, black, i. 23. + Grous, wood, i. 179. + Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. 242. + Grundell, Baron, i. 70. ii. 245. + _Gryllus domesticus_, i. 254. + Gulls, i. 75. + Gwiniad, small, i. 161. + _Gyrophoræ_, ii. 282. + + + H. + + Hair-moss, great, i. 171, 191. + Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74. + Hare, i. 89. + Harness, rein-deer, i. 104. + Harr, i. 61. + Hazle, i. 62, 68. + Heart's ease, i. 41. + Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 56. + _Hedera Helix_, i. 21. + Helsingland, i. 25. + _Hepatica_, i. 11. + _Hieracium Pilosella_, i. 5. + _Hippophaë rhamnoides_, ii. 224, 233. + Hobgoblins, supposed to inhabit the mountains, i. 221. + Hops, i. 36, 62. + Horns of the reindeer, i. 135. + Horsetail, naked, i. 121. + Househould œconomy of the Laplanders, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, + 340. ii. 5-18, 23-26, 47-50. + Humble-bee, i. 159. + _Humulus Lupulus_, ii. 122, 228. + Hunting the bear, ii. 83-85. + Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155. + _Hyoscyamus niger_, ii. 224. + _Hypnum parietinum_, i. 8. + + + I. + + Implements of husbandry, i. 65. + Insects at Bumoen, i. 200. + ---- Lulea, i. 233. + ---- Pithoea, i. 216. + ---- Umoen, i. 192-194. + _Iris Pseudacorus_, ii. 228. + Ivy, i. 21. + Itinerary of Linnæus, ii. 270. + + + J. + + Jarf, i. 71. + _Juncellus aquaticus_, i. 122. + _Juncus campestris_, i. 5. + ---- _curvatus_, ii. 281. + ---- _trifidus_, i. 279. + ---- _triglumis_, ii. 112. + Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156. + _Jussiea._ See _Sibbaldia_. + + + K. + + Kettle, method of boiling, i. 198. + Kids, i. 10. + Kimi, ii. 146-151. + Korssraff, i. 71. + Kowall, i. 111. + + + L. + + Lady-bird, i. 179. + _Lapis molaris_, i. 30. + Lapland Alps, i. 283-322. ii. 1-81, 257. + ---- Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to determine the height of, ii. 272. + Lapland minerals, ii. 35-37. + ---- Norwegian, i. 322-335. + Laplanders' amusements, ii. 50-58. + ---- character, i. 132. + ---- dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326-335. ii. 110, 144-150. + ---- diseases, ii. 32-35. + ---- food, i. 154. + ---- substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86. + ---- household œconomy, i. 167-172, 190, 197-199, 340, 341. ii. 5-18, + 23-26, 47-50. + ---- huts, i. 125-127, 155. + ---- marriages, ii. 67-76. + ---- shop, i. 119, 120. + ---- weapons, i. 137. + Lark, i. 6. + _Larus canus_, i. 75, 319. + _Lathyrus palustris_, ii. 226. + _Ledum palustre_, i. 23, 246. ii. 275. + _Leontodon Taraxacum_, i. 5. + _Leonurus Cardiaca_, ii. 224. + _Lepas Balanoides_, i. 336. + ---- _Balanus_, i. 336. + _Lernea asellina_, i. 341. + _Libellula forcipata_, i. 190. + ---- _Virgo_, i. 190. + _Lichen arcticus_, i. 31. + ---- _byssoides_, i. 84. + ---- _caninus_, i. 31. + ---- _cocciferus_, i. 84. + ---- _ericetorum_, i. 156. + ---- _islandicus_, i. 24. ii. 200. + ---- _jubatus_, ii. 171. + ---- _nivalis_, i. 4, 85. + ---- _omphalodes_, ii. 233. + ---- _rangiferinus_, i. 84, 161, 318. ii. 18, 88, 108, 128, 199, 277. + ---- _stygius_, ii. 233. + ---- _uncialis_, i. 82, 84. + ---- _velleus_, i. 213. + Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, 161. + _Ligusticum Levisticum_, i. 73. + Lime-tree, i. 68. + Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139. + _Linnæa borealis_, i. 21, 37, 203, 229. + _Lithospermum arvense_, i. 5. + _Lonicera Xylosteum_, ii. 227. + _Loxia curvirostra_, i. 70. + _Ludus Helmontii_, i. 8. + Lulea, i. 228-255. + Lulean Lapland, i. 256-283. ii. 81-130. + Lumme, i. 27, 176. + _Lychnis alpina_, ii. 19. + ---- _apetala_, ii. 279. + ---- _dioica_, i. 33. + ---- _Viscaria_, ii. 19. + Lycksele Lapland, i. 96-194. + ---- parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. 242. + _Lycopodium alpinum_, } + ---- _clavatum_, } i. 20. + ---- _complanatum_, } + ---- _Selago_, } + _Lycopsis arvensis_, i. 253. + _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, ii. 275. + _Lythrum Salicaria_, ii. 164. + + + M. + + Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131. + Maple, i. 68. + Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii. 67-76. + Meal-berry, i. 250. + Medelpad, i. 35. + _Medusa aurita_, i. 338. + _Medusa capillata_, i. 336. + ---- _cruciata_, i. 338. + _Melampyrum pratense_, } i. 110, 111. + ---- _sylvaticum_, } + _Menyanthes trifoliata_, i. 86, 200, 352. + _Mergus Merganser_, i. 94-96. + _Mesomora_, i. 177, 189. + _Mica_, i. 26, 247. + Mice, i. 89. + _Michelia._ See _Azalea lapponica_. + Milk, i. 59, 242-244, 273, 317. + ---- preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. 181. + Minerals, ii. 35-37. + Mining, i. 195, 196. + Missne, i. 86. + Money-wort, i. 229. + _Montia fontana_, i. 176. + Mosses, their fructification, i. 181-186. + Motacilla flava, i. 71. + Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. 244. + _Mures_, i. 89. + _Mus Lemmus_, i. 102, 162, 303. + _Musca carnaria_, i. 159. + _Muscus lichenoides_, i. 213. + ---- _tectorius_, i. 85. + _Mustela Gulo_, i. 71. ii. 50, 279. + _Mya arenaria_, i. 237. + ---- _margaritifera_, ii. 105. + _Myosotis scorpioides_, i. 5. + _Myrica Gale_, i. 19, 208. + + + N. + + _Nardus stricta_, i. 236. + _Narthecium ossifragum_, i. 257. + Norway, i. 335-366. + Norwegian Lapland, i. 322-335. + _Nostoc_, i. 263. + _Nux vomica_, i. 112. + + + O. + + Oak, i. 68. + Ochre, i. 62, 63. + Œconomy of the Torneans, ii. 173-182. + _Œstrus nasalis_, ii. 45. + ---- _Tarandi_, i. 293. ii. 2, 23. + _Oniscus aquaticus_, i. 206. + _Ophrys alpina_, ii. 279. + ---- _cordata_, ii. 109. + Orchis, palmated, i. 178. + Ore, silver, i. 246. + _Orobus vernus_, ii. 228. + Ortolans, i. 71. + Owls, i. 93, 204. + Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210. + _Oxalis Acetosella_, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + P. + + _Paris quadrifolia_, i. 138. + _Pedicularis_, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. 277. + ---- _flammea_, i. 296. ii. 280. + ---- _hirsuta_, ii. 280. + _Pedicularis lapponica_, ii. 278. + _Perca fluviatilis_, ii. 86. + Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364. + _Pes pelicani_, i. 336. + _Petromyzon fluviatilis_, ii. 196. + _Phaca alpina_, ii. 275. + _Phoca vitulina_, ii. 234. + _Phrygania bicaudata_, i. 74. + _Pica lapponum_, i. 175. + Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162. + Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140. + _Pinguicula_, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. 109. + ---- _villosa_, i. 255. + _Pinus Abies_, i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. 274, 275. + ---- _nodosa_, i. 214. + ---- _plicata_, i. 7. + ---- _sylvestris_, i. 25, 49. ii. 60, 66, 157, 275, 276. + Pipsten, i. 30. + _Pisum maritimum_, ii. 203. + Pithoea, i. 194-228. ii. 256. + Plants at Calix, ii. 193, 195, 196. + ---- Flaskesele, i. 116, 117. + ---- Gräno, i. 174. + ---- Jö, ii. 202. + ---- Jockmock, i. 265, 266. + ---- Kimi, ii. 147, 151-153. + ---- Kiomitis, i. 269-272. + ---- Koskesvari, i. 258-260. + ---- Limingo, ii. 212, 213. + ---- Lulea, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. 122, 125. + ---- Sastmola, ii. 227. + ---- Skargarden, i. 220, 221. + ---- Torfiolme, i. 345. + ---- Tornea, ii. 125, 131, 136-144, 169, 172. + ---- Umoea, i. 181-186. + ---- Upland, i. 325. + ---- Wallavari, i. 283-291, 293-303. + ---- Wasa, ii. 223. + ---- Zangis, ii. 128-130. + Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98-100. + Plants and fishes near Pithoea, i. 222-228. + Plovers, ringed, i. 93. + _Polygonum Fagopyrum_, i. 166. + ---- _viviparum_, i. 282. + _Polypodium_, i. 55. + _Polytrichum_, i. 85, 191. ii. 225. + ---- _commune_, i. 124, 171. + _Populus tremula_, i. 77, ii. 277. + _Potamogeton gramineum_, ii. 112. + ---- perfoliatum, ii. 92. + Potatoes, i. 62. + _Poterium Sanguisorba_, i. 220. + _Primula_, i. 5, 277. + _Prunus Padus_, ii. 277. + Ptarmigan, i. 35, 150. + _Pteris crispa_, ii. 278. + _Pyrolæ_, i. 17. + _Pyrus Aucuparia_, ii. 277. + + + Q. + + Quicksand, i. 63. + + + R. + + _Ranunculus acris_, i. 203. + ---- _aquatilis_, ii. 91. + ---- _glacialis_, ii. 281, 282. + ---- _lapponicus_, i. 156, 252. + ---- _nivalis_, ii. 281. + Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121. + Reindeer, i. 68, 79, 103-110, 113, 127, 135, 161, 280, 307-314. ii. 22, + 37-46, 107, 110. + ---- method of castrating, ii. 3. + _Ribes alpinum_, ii. 227. + ---- _rubrum_, i. 257. + _Rosa cinnamomea_, ii. 274. + Rocking children, various modes of, i. 190. + _Rubus arcticus_, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. 118, 274. + ---- _Chamæmorus_, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. 109, 279. + ---- _fruticosus_, ii. 118. + ---- _idæus_, ii. 118. + ---- _saxatilis_, ii. 118, 228. + Ruffs and Reeves, i. 71. + _Rumex Acetosa_, i. 102, 153, 315, 366. + ---- digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. 281. + Rye, i. 56, 57, 67. + + + S. + + _Salix caprea_, i. 5. + ---- _glauca_, ii. 278. + ---- _hastata_, ii. 278. + ---- _Helix_, i. 17. + ---- _lanata_, i. 77. ii. 279. + ---- _Lapponum_, ii. 26. + _Salix myrsinites_, ii. 279. + ---- _pentandra_, ii. 275. + ---- _phylicifolia_, i. 242. + ---- _rosmarinifolia_, ii. 183. + Sallow-tree, i. 55. + _Salmo Albula_, i. 161. ii. 86, 89, 216. + ---- _alpinus_, i. 127, 305-307. ii. 277. + ---- _Lavaretus_, i. 160. ii. 37, 97, 167, 275. + ---- _Salar_, ii. 116, 189. + ---- _Thymallus_, i. 61. ii. 275. + Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. 117. + Sandpipers, i. 93. + _Satyrium viride_, i. 178. + _Saxifraga_, i. 10. ii. 280. + _Saxum fornacum_, i. 30. + _Scarabæus_, i. 206. + _Sceptrum Carolinum_, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. 119, 277. + _Scheuchzeria palustris_, i. 257. + _Schœnus Mariscus_, i. 150. + _Scirpus cæspitosus_, i. 122, 150. + ---- _maritimus_, ii. 228. + _Sciurus volans_, ii. 231. + ---- _vulgaris_, ii. 49. + _Scolopax Gallinago_, i. 19. + Seals, remarks on, ii. 234. + _Sedum Telephium_, ii. 226. + _Serratula alpina_, i. 259. + Shop, Laplander's, i. 119. + _Sibbaldia procumbens_, i. 284. + _Silene acaulis_, ii. 281. + _Sisymbrium Nasturtium_, ii. 226. + Skelleftea, i. 203. + Skula, mountain, ii. 242. + Sledge, i. 104. + _Solanum Dulcamara_, ii. 224. + _Solidago Virgaurea_, ii. 87. + _Sonchus alpinus_, ii. 60, 77-79, 277. + _Sorbus_, ii. 277. + _Spergula arvensis_, i. 353. + _Sphagnum_, i. 37, 139, 156, 165. + ---- _palustre_, ii. 109. + _Sphinx Filipendulæ_, i. 321. + Spiders, i. 23. + Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. 231. + Squirrels, i. 89, 176. + _Stellaria minima_, i. 238. + ---- _nemorum_, i. 279. + _Strix Bubo_, i. 39, 210-213. + ---- _Ulula_, i. 205. + Struthiopteris, ii. 277. + Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364. + Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244. + Swallows, i. 71. + _Swammerdamia_, i. 237. + Swans, i. 94. + + + T. + + Talc, i. 42. + _Talcum Ollaris_, i. 356. + _Tanacetum Balsamita_, i. 220. + _Tanacetum vulgare_, ii. 201. + Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. 120, 121. + _Taxus baccata_, i. 11. + Tents of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 7. + _Tetrao Lagopus_, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. 258. + ---- _Tetrix_, i. 23. + ---- _Urogallus_, i. 78, 177, 179. ii. 96. + _Thalictrum alpinum_, i. 277. + ---- _flavum_, i. 138. + _Thlaspi arvense_, i. 5. + _Tilia europæa_, ii. 225. + _Tipula juniperi_, i. 21. + ---- _rivosa_, i. 186. + Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's stomach, i. 112. + Tobacco, i. 62, 86. + _Tofieldia palustris_, i. 257, 265, 366. + Tordmule, i. 64. + _Tormentilla officinalis_, i. 155. + Tornea, ii. 130-146, 166-201. + ---- œconomical remarks concerning the neighbourhood of, ii. 173-182. + Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180. + ---- salmon, i. 206. + Trefoil, water, i. 86. + _Tremella juniperina_, i. 175. + _Trientalis_, i. 282. ii. 278. + _Tringa hypoleucos,_ i. 117. + ---- _pugnax_, i. 71. + _Tringæ_, i. 93. + _Turdus iliacus_, i. 6, 23, 121, 176. + _Tussilago frigida_, ii. 277. + ---- _nivea_, ii. 275. + + + V. + + _Vaccinium Myrtillus_, i. 23, 25, 35, 49, 124, 208. ii. 275. + ---- _Oxycoccos_, i. 208. + ---- _uliginosum_, ii. 279. + ---- _Vitis Idæa_, i. 23, 124, 137, 258. + _Veronica alpina_, ii. 278. + ---- _serpyllifolia_, ii. 275. + _Viburnum Opulus_, ii. 227. + _Vicia sylvatica_, ii. 228. + _Viola biflora_, i. 138, 279. ii. 278. + ---- _canina_, i. 42. + ---- _lactea_, i. 42. + ---- _lutea_, i. 41. + ---- _odorata_, i. 5. + ---- _palustris_, i. 20, 45. + ---- _tricolor_, i. 5, 41. + Violet, aquatic, i. 42. + ---- marsh, i. 20, 45. + ---- yellow, i. 138. + _Viverra Lutreola_, ii. 231. + + + U. + _Ulvæ_, i. 336. + Umoea, i. 69, 178. + Upland, i. 2. + Upsal, i. 3. ii. 234. + + + W. + + Wagtail, water, i. 62. + Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine the height of the + Lapland Alps, ii. 272. + Wallavari mountain, ii. 257. + Wasp, i. 159. + Weapons, i. 137. + Well, mineral, i. 241. + West Bothland, i. 67. + Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137. + Willows, i. 61, 68, 80, 138, 249. + Winter-green, i. 17. + Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68. + + + X. + + _Xyphias Gladius_, i. 335. + + + Y. + Yellow-hammer, i. 71. + Yew, i. 11. + +THE END. + + + + +ERRATA. + +Vol i. p 134, line 11, read _set in_. + +206, line 3 from the bottom, for _Dean_ read _principal clergyman_. + +246, line 16, read _some of the Nasaphiel silver ore_. + + * * * * * + +_Printed by Richard Taylor and Co., Shoe-Lane, London._ + +_Of the Publishers of this Work may be had the following Works, written +or edited by_ DR. SMITH. + + + 1. PLANTARUM ICONES HACTENUS INEDITÆ, plerumque ad Plantas in + Herbario Linnæano conservatas delineatæ. Fascic. I. II. III. Small + Folio, each containing 25 Plates, Price Three Guineas in Boards. + 1789, &c. + + 2. CAROLI LINNÆI FLORA LAPPONICA, exhibens Plantas per Lapponiam + crescentes, secundum Systema Sexuale, collectas in Itinere Impensis + Reg. Scient. Upsaliensis Anno 1782 instituto. Additis Synonymis, et + Locis Natalibus omnium, Descriptionibus et Figuris rariorum, Viribus + medicatis et œconomicis plurimarum. Editio altera, aucta et + emendata. 1792. In one Volume Octavo, with a Frontispiece and Twelve + Engravings. 12_s._ in Boards. + + 3. A SKETCH of a TOUR on the CONTINENT. The Second Edition. 1807. 3 + Vols. 8vo. Price 1£. 7_s._ in Boards. + + 4. TRACTS relating to NATURAL HISTORY, with coloured Plates. 8vo. + 1798. 7_s._ Boards. + + 5. FLORA BRITANNICA, Vol. I. II. III. 8vo. 1800, &c. 1£. 6_s._ 6_d._ + Boards.--The Fourth Volume of this Work will be published as + speedily as possible. + + 6. COMPENDIUM FLORÆ BRITANNICÆ, Pars I. Crown 8vo. 3_s._ sewed.--The + Conclusion of this Work will appear with that of the preceding. + + 7. An INTRODUCTION to PHYSIOLOGICAL and SYSTEMATICAL BOTANY. Second + Edition. 1809. 8vo. with 14 Plates. 14_s._ Boards; or with the + Plates coloured, 1£. 8_s._ in Boards. + + 8. A TOUR to HAFOD in CARDIGANSHIRE, the seat of THOMAS JOHNES, + Esq., M. P.; beautifully printed by Beasley in Super-royal Folio, + and accompanied by FIFTEEN VIEWS (Size 20 Inches by 13-1/2) engraved + in Aquatinta and coloured to imitate the original drawings, by JOHN + SMITH. Price Twelve Guineas in Boards.--Only 100 Copies are printed. + + 9. FLORA GRÆCA: sive Plantarum rariorum Historia, quas in Provinciis + aut Insulis Græciæ legit, investigavit, et depingi curavit JOHANNES + SIBTHORP, M. D. S. S. Reg. et Linn. Lond. Socius, Bot. Professor + Regius in Academia Oxoniensi. Hic illic etiam insertæ sunt pauculæ + Species quas Vir idem clarissimus, Græciam versus navigans, in + Itinere, præsertim apud Italiam et Siciliam, invenerit. Characteres + omnium, Descriptiones et Synonyma elaboravit JACOBUS EDVARDUS SMITH, + M. D. &c. Fasciculi I. et II. Folio (forming the First Volume.) with + 50 beautifully coloured Engravings in each, Price Twelve Guineas + each in Boards.--The Third Fasciculus is in considerable + Forwardness. + + 10. PRODROMUS FLORE GRÆCÆ, Pars I. et II. (forming the First Volume) + Royal 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._ each Part in Boards. + + +_Also published by_ WHITE _and_ COCHRANE, + + The LIFE of Sir CHARLES LINNÆUS. To which are added, a copious List + of his Works, and a Biographical Sketch of the Life of his Son, by + D. H. STOEVER. Translated from the original German by JOSEPH TRAPP, + A. M. Handsomely printed in Quarto, with a Portrait, Price One + Guinea in Boards.--A few Copies in Royal Quarto, Price 1£, 11_s._ + 6_d._ + + * * * * * + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] The discovery of the plant in question is related in the _Flora +Lapponica_ in so interesting a manner, that we cannot refrain from +translating the passage. See the second edition, p. 135. + +"I met with this plant but once, and that throughout a journey of four +hours, over the celebrated mountain of Wallivari in the district of +Lulea, towards a tract of country which lies about half way between the +northern and western part, where it grew in great abundance. + +"Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse perspiration, facing +the cold wind, at midnight; if I may call it night when the sun was +shining without setting at all; still anxiously inquiring of my +interpreter how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which I had for two +hours been expecting, though I knew not its precise situation; casting +my eager eyes around me in all directions, I perceived as it were the +shadow of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking it for the +_Empetrum_. But after going a few steps further, an idea of its being +something I was unacquainted with came across my mind, and I turned +back; when I should again have taken it for the _Empetrum_, had not its +greater height caused me to consider it with more attention. I know not +what it is that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the night, as +to render objects far less distinct than in the middle of the day, +though the sun shines equally bright. The sun being near the horizon, +spreads its rays in such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely +protect our eyes: besides, the shadows of plants are so infinitely +extended, and so confounded with each other, from the tremulous +agitation caused by the blustering wind, that objects very different in +themselves are scarcely to be distinguished from each other. Having +gathered one of these plants, I looked about and found several more in +the neighbourhood, all on the north side, where they grew in plenty; but +I never met with the same in any other place afterwards. As at this time +they had lost their flowers, and were ripening seed, it was not till +after I had sought for a very long time that I met with a single flower, +which was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with five sharper +divisions." + +[2] This strange passage is presumed to allude to a little gun, four or +five inches long, still shown in the arsenal at Stockholm, with which +vulgar report says the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas. + +[3] It is not impossible that Linnæus might be misled here by the +prejudices of his time, or by those of the people from whom he obtained +his account. + +[4] The whole of this account of the hay consists, in the manuscript, of +such concise, disjointed, and obscure notes, that we are by no means +certain of having preserved the exact sense. + +[5] La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge, observes that "it +is attached by a single trace or thong, passing under the belly of the +reindeer, and fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's +neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to his horns, serves, +when pulled in a straight line, to stop his course, or, when drawn +toward either side, to turn him in that direction. When this cord is +made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on the back, it urges +him to greater speed. The overturn of the sledge, where the road is +uneven, is prevented by a stick, which serves, like the oar or paddle of +a boat, to guide its course." + +[6] Linnæus records this misfortune in his _Flora Lapponica_, at n. 42, +see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speaking of _Arundo Calamagrostis_, he says +he "presumes the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no +opportunity of comparing his plant with books and descriptions, having +lost the specimen, with various other natural productions, by being cast +away as he was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland." The +synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus by memory applied, proves +to be erroneous. + +[7] This account does not agree with the description in the _Flora +Lapponica_, but is the most correct. + +[8] This also is correct. + +[9] A few further remarks on the above subject, printed in the _Flora +Lapponica_, may be acceptable to the English reader. + +"This disease made no regular progress, nor was it communicated by +infection from one animal to another. The cows are driven all together +in the spring to feed in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on +the other side of a creek of the river, in which I was informed the +greatest mortality happened. The symptoms differ in different cases; but +all the cattle, feeding indiscriminately, are seized with a swelling of +the abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with horrid bellowing, +in the space of a few days. No person dares venture to flay the recent +carcases, it having been found by experience that not only the hands, +but even the face, in consequence of the warm steams from the body, +became inflamed and gangrenous, and that death finally ensued. + +"I was asked whether this disease was a kind of plague; whether the +meadow in question produced any venomous spiders; or whether the +yellow-coloured water was poisonous. + +"That it was no plague appeared from its not being contagious, and from +the spring being its most fatal season. I saw no spiders here, except +what are common throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow sediment of +the water any thing more than a common innocent ochre of iron. + +"I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was taken to this +meadow, than the _Cicuta_ presented itself before me, and explained the +cause of all this destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow where +the cattle are first seized with the distemper, especially near the +shore. The slightest observation teaches us that brute animals +distinguish, by natural instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, +from such as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not eat this Hemlock +in summer or autumn; whence few of them perish at those seasons, and +such only as devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an +inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned out in the spring, +partly from their eagerness for fresh herbage, partly from their long +fasting and starvation, they seize with avidity whatever comes within +their reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient to satisfy +them; probably also it is in general more succulent, immersed under +water, and scarcely perceptibly scented; so that they are unable to +distinguish the wholesome from the pernicious kinds. I remarked every +where that the radical leaves only were cropped, no others; which +confirmed what I have asserted. In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same +plant cut with the hay for winter food; so that it is no wonder if in +that state some, even of the more cautious cattle, are destroyed by it." +_Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 76. + +[10] This plant is not mentioned in the _Flora Lapponica_, and the +account annexed seems to belong to _Ligusticum scoticum_, n. 107 of that +work, with which it well agrees. + +[11] Linnæus in this description denominates these leaflets, whether of +the general or partial involucrum, _radii_, a term he always +subsequently used for the stalks of the umbels. + +[12] King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit to Tornea in 1694, was +accompanied by Count G. Douglas the Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper +Counsellor of Chancery, J. Hoghusen Counsellor of the Board of War, and +some other learned men, and in the night between the 13th and 14th of +June saw, from the belfry of the church, the midnight sun, at that time +visible there to a person placed on such an elevation. The year +following, Professors Bilberg and Spole were sent to Tornea to repeat +these observations. The royal visit to Tornea was commemorated by a +medal struck on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the king; +on the reverse, a representation of the sun half above the horizon, with +this motto, _Soli inocciduo Sol obvius alter_; and beneath, _Iter Regis +ad Botniam Occidentalem_, _Mense Junio_ 1694. + +[13] _Stegerhusen._ I have not been able to make out the precise meaning +of this word. + +[14] John Messenius, famous for his learning and his misfortunes, was +professor of law and politics at Upsal, in the reign of the great +Gustavus Adolphus, who had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all +his wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and hatred of some of +the colleagues of this able man, especially of John Rudbeck, a malignant +though learned theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify +Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius to Stockholm, and made +him a member of the new council established there. The latter was +formally accused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic king +Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual prison, where he composed a +great work entitled _Scandia illustrata_, published at Stockholm between +the years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son Arnold might be +justified for detesting those who had persecuted his illustrious father, +but not for the folly of expressing his feelings in satirical +publications against people in power. For this he paid with his life on +the scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17, suffered with him. + +[15] In the Journal, vol. i. 101, Linnæus speaks of Mr. Oladron as the +curate of Lycksele, and his wife. + +[16] The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not agree with the +original journal, which therefore I have followed. See the first page of +this volume. + +[17] _Jacq. Ic. Rar. t. 154. Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1287._ + +[18] We know not what species the author intends by this name. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes + +Non-standard spellings have been retained as printed. These are listed +as suspect typographical errors as follows: + +page 59: suspect typo "skain" for "skein" ( ... being wrapped round the +hand like a skain of thread ...) + +page 73: suspect typo "basons" for "basins" (The fat part of the broth +is first served up in basons.) + +Changes to typographical errors in the text are as follows: + +page 182: changed "Servet-mjolk" to "Servet-mjölk". + +page 198 changed "close" to "closed" ( ... a trough, closed on all +sides, ...) + +Page 296 added "i." (parsonage, church, and school, i. 111. ii. +242.) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lachesis Lapponica, by Carl von Linné + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LACHESIS LAPPONICA *** + +***** This file should be named 36059-0.txt or 36059-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/0/5/36059/ + +Produced by Simon Gardner, Robert Connal, Chris Curnow and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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