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diff --git a/36084-h/36084-h.htm b/36084-h/36084-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbb9ad5 --- /dev/null +++ b/36084-h/36084-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7112 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Cities of the Dawn, by J. Ewing Ritchie</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 30%; } + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cities of the Dawn, by J. Ewing Ritchie + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Cities of the Dawn + + +Author: J. Ewing Ritchie + + + +Release Date: May 11, 2011 [eBook #36084] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1897 T. Fisher Unwin edition by David +Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/cover.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cover" +title= +"Cover" +src="images/cover.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p0.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Dawn on the Great Sphinx" +title= +"Dawn on the Great Sphinx" +src="images/p0.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1><span class="smcap">the</span><br /> +CITIES OF THE DAWN:</h1> +<p style="text-align: +center"><i>NAPLES—ATHENS—POMPEII—CONSTANTINOPLE—</i><br +/> + +<i>SMYRNA—JAFFA—JERUSALEM—ALEXANDRIA—</i><br +/> +<i>CAIRO—MARSEILLES—AVIGNON—</i><br /> +<i>LYONS—DIJON</i>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +J. EWING RITCHIE<br /> +(‘<span class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>’),<br +/> +<span class="smcap">author of ‘crying for the light,’ +‘east anglia,’ etc., etc.</span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<blockquote><p>‘Ye glittering towns with wealth and +splendour crown’d;<br /> +Ye fields where summer spreads profusion round;<br /> +Ye lakes whose vessels catch the busy gale;<br /> +Ye bending swains that dress the flowery vale;<br /> +For me your tributary stores combine;<br /> +Creation’s heir, the world—the world is +mine.’</p> +</blockquote> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap"><i>with +thirty-one illustrations</i></span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">london</span>:<br /> +<span class="smcap">T. FISHER UNWIN</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">paternoster square</span>.<br /> +<span class="smcap">NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM’S +SONS</span>.<br /> +1897.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="pageix"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. ix</span>To<br /> +<span class="smcap">F. W. WARMINGTON, Esq.</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">to whose practical philanthropy</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">many of the young people of both +sexes</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">are indebted for happy +holiday-times</span>,<br /> +<span class="smcap">this book</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">is respectfully dedicated</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +THE AUTHOR</p> +<h2><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xi</span>PREFACE.</h2> +<p>In this new publication, consisting chiefly of articles which +appeared in the <i>Christian World</i>, the <i>Echo</i>, and the +<i>East Anglian Daily Times</i>, the author makes no pretence to +original information, or to have acted the part of an antiquarian +explorer. He has simply gone over ground familiar to many, +and to which all holiday-makers will turn in increasing numbers, +partly for pleasure, and partly on account of the absorbing +interest attaching to the route here briefly described. To +such he offers his services as guide, philosopher and friend, +trusting also that many who stay at home may be interested in the +story here told.</p> +<p>With regard to the illustrations, the author acknowledges the +kindness of Dr. Lunn and Messrs. Cassell in allowing him the use +of them, and especially is grateful to Miss Pollard, the daughter +of the author of that valuable work, ‘The Land of the +Monuments,’ for permission to use her sketch ‘Dawn on +the Great Sphinx,’ which he has utilized for his +frontispiece.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Clacton-on-Sea</span>.</p> +<h2><a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiii</span>CONTENTS</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p><span class="smcap">chapter</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">page</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">i.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">a run across france</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">ii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">off to naples</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">iii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">naples of to-day</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">iv.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">pompeii and vesuvius</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">v.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the isles of the +mediterranean</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">vi.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">about athens</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">vii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">constantinople</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">viii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">smyrna</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">ix.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">jaffa to jerusalem</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">x.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the holy city</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xi.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">bethlehem</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the jew in jerusalem</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xiii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">alexandria</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xiv.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">in cairo</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xv.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the pyramids and the sphinx</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xvi.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the river nile</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xvii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the return to marseilles</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page172">172</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xviii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">avignon</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xix.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the great city of lyons</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xx.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">dijon, or the wine country</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">xxi.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p><span class="smcap">books of reference</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page214">214</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pagexv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xv</span>LIST +OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">page</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">dawn on the great sphinx</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Frontispiece</i></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">two-berth cabin, ‘midnight +sun’</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the bay of naples</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">temple of venus, pompeii</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the corinth canal</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">temple of victory</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the parthenon</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">a busy street in +constantinople</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">a mosque on the bosphorus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the quay, constantinople</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">galata bridge, +constantinople</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">an old street, +constantinople</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the gate of persecution, near +ephesus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">jerusalem: via dolorosa and pontius +pilate’s house</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">view from st. stephen’s gate, +with russian church and garden of gethsemane</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">general view of jerusalem from the +convent of the sisters of zion</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page93">93</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the church of the holy +sepulchre</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">bethlehem</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">pompey’s pillar, +alexandria</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">general view of cairo</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page136">136</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">a street in cairo</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">tomb of the caliphs of +cairo</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pagexvi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xvi</span><span class="smcap">donkey-boy, cairo</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">colossal statue of rameses +ii.</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">pyramid and sphinx</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the great sphinx</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">a tourist steamer—cook’s +nile flotilla</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the new harbour, marseilles</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">marseilles</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the castle of the popes, +avignon</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">the place bellecour, lyons</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>CHAPTER +I.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">A RUN ACROSS FRANCE.</p> +<p>To leave London one day and to arrive in Marseilles the next +would have been deemed impossible—the dream of a +madman—in the age in which I was born, when steamships and +railways were unknown. Yet it is a fact, to the truth of +which I can testify. Half a century has elapsed since the +fair fields, leafy woodlands, and breezy chalk downs of Kent were +invaded by a band of navvies, who, under the skilful direction of +the late Sir William Cubitt, built up the main line of the +South-Eastern Railway. The next thing was to connect France +and Europe, which was done by means of steamers running between +Calais and Dover, and thence by rail to all the chief Continental +cities and health resorts.</p> +<p>I leave London by the Continental express at eight in the +morning one cold day in October; in eight hours I am in Paris, +passing Calais and Abbeville, both of which places, especially +the former, are, I believe, pretty well known in these days of +universal restlessness and travel. It is little we see <a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>of Paris, the +gay and beautiful. We have to dine—for man must dine, +if possible, once a day—and to Paris we turn for its cooks +and cookery. It is there that the art of dining is carried +to perfection. ‘Unquiet meals make ill +digestions.’ There is no fear of that as I sit down +to my well-prepared repast at the handsome buffet attached to the +French Northern Railway, and yet there my troubles begin. +As a barbarous Englander, I ask why in Paris, the centre, as it +deems itself, of civilization and refinement, I am compelled to +help myself to salt by putting my knife into the +saltcellar. Then, again, it seems curious to me, and what I +am not accustomed to, to eat my fish without a fitting knife and +fork. Surely one may expect to find in Paris the refinement +one is accustomed to in one’s native land! As to +being cheated with one’s eyes open, one does not +complain—you expect it, and it is not worth while losing +your temper merely for the sake of a few paltry centimes; and yet +I felt that I had been done unfairly when, on asking a waiter for +a cup of coffee <i>noir</i>, and giving him an English shilling, +and particularly calling his attention to the value of the coin, +he coolly treats it as a franc, and gives me change +accordingly. That was rather a dear cup of coffee, I +calculate; but, then, the fault was mine, and mine alone. I +ought to have provided myself with French money before I +started.</p> +<p>I am going on what Dr. Lunn calls an educational tour on the +Continent. It seems to me I shall get a good deal of +education of some kind or other before I return to my native land +again. There are about 112 on board from London and the +provinces. As we are bound for Jerusalem, we have, as was +to be expected, <a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +3</span>a large proportion of the clerical element. Ladies +are not so numerous as one would expect from what one knows of +the curiosity and fondness for adventure of lovely woman. +The worst part of the trip is the long, wearying ride from Paris +to Marseilles, where we found peace and plenty on board the +<i>Midnight Sun</i>. We saw but little of the country on +leaving Paris; but when we reached Lyons, where we were refreshed +with delicious coffee and bread-and-butter, and were provided +with a handsome lunch, to be eaten in the course of our journey, +consisting of a bottle of claret, beef and fowl, +bread-and-butter, and cheese and fruit—a handsome meal, to +which we all did justice—the day broke on us clear and +fine.</p> +<p>But I pause to make another little grumble. In barbarous +England the lunch would have been neatly packed away in a basket +specially provided for the purpose, and a knife and fork would +have been included. On the Lyons railway a brown paper bag +was deemed all that was necessary, and instead of a knife and +fork we had to use our fingers. As there was no convenience +for washing—at any rate, as regards second-class +passengers, <i>quorum pars fui</i>; I recommend the traveller to +go first-class on such a long ride—you can imagine our +disgusting state. It seems to me that the rule that they do +things better in France is one to which there are several +exceptions. But in some respects France beats us. It +will be hard to find anywhere in England a prettier ride than +that we enjoyed from Lyons to Marseilles. The white houses, +with their green blinds and red tiles, nestling in and among the +trees, always make a French landscape bright and gay. Their +great industrial and manufacturing centres also always <a +name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span> +<a href="images/p4.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Two-berth cabin, ‘Midnight Sun’" +title= +"Two-berth cabin, ‘Midnight Sun’" +src="images/p4.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>look +cleaner and less forbidding in their dreariness than ours at +home; and if the little narrow plots you see suggest peasant +farming, rather than the high and costly farming patronized at +home, you feel that the peasant of gay and sunny France—for +such France undoubtedly is—has a happier lot than with +us. But as you travel you have no time to think of such +things. It is all one can do to watch the fairy panorama of +rock and river, of waving woods and smiling plains, as you glide +by. At all times the Loire is a grand river, but to-day it +is flooded, and seems to be made up of lakes and seas, in which +struggle haystacks, farmhouses, barns, the everlasting poplars, +and, what is worse, the poor man’s garden, and I think, in +one or two cases that met my pitying eye, his vinefields as +well.</p> +<p>One word before I have done with the <i>Midnight +Sun</i>. ‘In the new yachting,’ writes Sir +Morell Mackenzie, ‘there is no unpleasantness as to the +change of places to be visited, nor are carefully-arranged plans +to be disarranged at the last moment by the thoughtlessness or +unpunctuality of friends. You have the pleasure of +companionship, without any of the responsibilities of a host or +the obligations of a guest. You can enjoy the sea and the +air charged with ozone, which is the champagne of the lungs, and +free from any taint of animal or vegetable corruption, just as +freely as if you were an Alexander Selkirk on a floating island; +and you have many comforts which cannot be had even on the +largest and best-appointed yachts.’ Such were the +results of the great physician’s experience on board one of +the fine excursion steamers of the Orient line. ‘I +felt,’ he writes, ‘like Faust after his great +transformation scene from age to youth.’</p> +<p><a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>I am not +on an Orient steamer, but I am on the <i>Midnight Sun</i>, and to +that Sir Morell Mackenzie’s testimony is equally +applicable. The <i>Midnight Sun</i> is a grand steamer of +3,178 tons, and she was especially fitted out for yachting +purposes. She may be said to be the best of the +class. For instance, take the sleeping cabins. They +contain no upper sleeping berths—a boon most acceptable to +passengers who have had to pass many nights, as I have done, in +cabins overcrowded with passengers and luggage. An idea of +the magnificent proportions of the <i>Midnight Sun</i> may be +gathered from the fact that seven times round her deck is equal +to one mile. The upper deck forms a promenade over the +entire length of the ship, with uninterrupted views on either +side. She has been engaged by Dr. Lunn for his co-operative +educational cruises, which become more popular every year. +I note especially the smoking-room on the upper deck, capable of +accommodating nearly 100 persons. There is a crew of 110 on +board for the purpose of ensuring our safety and supplying our +comforts and wants. Truly, if one cannot enjoy himself on +such a trip, and with such a company of gentlemen and ladies as +Dr. Lunn succeeds in drawing around him, he must be hard to +please. Dr. Lunn, who is not on board, is in himself a +host, and so is his popular brother, who supplies his +place. We are now approaching Corsica. I will spare +you my feelings as I gaze on the land that gave birth to a +Napoleon Bonaparte, and that sheltered Seneca in his dreary +exile, but which in modern times Lady Burdett Coutts finds to be +a very beneficial health resort. They are all that should +inspire the virtuous emotions of a true-born Englishman.</p> +<h2><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>CHAPTER +II.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">OFF TO NAPLES.</p> +<p>I left off my last letter opposite Corsica. Since +then—and this is the charm of coming to Naples in the +<i>Midnight Sun</i>—we have passed quite a cluster of isles +more or less renowned in history—such as Caprera, the rocky +home of the great Italian, Garibaldi—of which, alas! we see +nothing. In old times Caprera derived its name from the +wild goats, its original inhabitants. Later on it was +colonized by monks. ‘The whole island,’ says a +contemporary writer quoted by Gibbon, ‘is filled, or, +rather, defiled by men, who fly from the light. They call +themselves monks, or solitaries, because they choose to live +alone, without any witnesses of their actions. They fear +the gifts of fortune from the apprehension of losing them, and, +lest they should be miserable, they embrace a life of voluntary +wretchedness.’ Elba, however, is visible, which the +wiseacres whom Providence, for mysterious reasons of its own, at +one time permitted to rule over European affairs, fixed on as the +residence of the Corsican adventurer, in the childish belief that +he who had aimed almost at universal empire, and had in vain +attempted to grapple with and overthrow the pride and power of <a +name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>England, would +be content to remain on that puny isle, within a hop, step and +jump of France, as it were, and almost within speaking distance +of the legions whom he had led to glory. Then we sailed +past Monte Cristo, the scene of Dumas’ celebrated romance +of that name. Mostly, at a distance, the isles look bare of +life and vegetation, rocks rising out of the blue waves; and yet +we know it to be otherwise. At best, however, they must be +poor places to live in, far from the great battle of life, and +out of touch with human progress. We pass Sardinia, but see +little of it. This is Sunday, and to-day the Church clergy, +who are numerous, seem to have had a good innings. +Unfortunately, I came into collision with one of them. As I +entered the smoking-room after breakfast, I saw there had been +held there an early Communion, and the implements utilized on +such occasions were lying about. In a light and flippant +tone I asked whether this was High Church or Low Church or Broad +Church. A little oily parson, who was apparently guarding +the vessels, angrily exclaimed, ‘Sir, it is the +<i>Church</i>!’ ‘Thank you,’ I said; +‘I only wanted to know. To me it is a matter of +indifference.’ ‘That was very naughty of +you,’ said a mild, gentlemanly young man at my side. +Let everyone worship God, or what he takes to be God, as best he +may. I scorn not the savage who bows down to idols of wood +and stone. To him they represent a Divine presence and +power. I claim a similar liberty for the High Churchman, +who sees sacred emblems in vessels of human device to be bought +in the shops, or wrought by devout females; but let him give me +the same freedom, and not denounce me as little better than one +of the wicked, as void of Christian faith, because I turn from <a +name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>man’s +devices to cry out of the aching heart to the living God, if +haply I may find Him.</p> +<p>But I am digressing; for the fact is that I always see more of +sacerdotalism afloat than I do on land. We are getting on +pleasantly as regards social companionship. It was very +cold in the train to Dover, and I felt inclined to take rather a +gloomy view of the situation. It was worse on board the +Dover and Calais packet, where the whole of the deck was set +apart for first-class passengers, while we unfortunate +second-class men were sent down below to see what we could out of +the cabin windows. But once in the French second-class +carriages, really much nicer than our own, reserve was broken, +the tongue began to wag, and all went merry as a +marriage-bell. I was much pleased with my neighbour—a +Yorkshireman, I think, who had brought with him a bag of new +farthings to be utilized for backsheesh. He offered me +some, but I refused. At my time of life I should not like +to be caught by a wild Arab of the desert to whom I had offered a +new farthing for the familiar sovereign, the use of which is +known from China to Peru. The pompous elderly first-class +passenger amuses me. He has got his English paper, and he +carries it with him everywhere, in spite of the fact that its +news is some days old. One of my fellow-passengers had +bought himself at Marseilles a small footstool to keep his feet +dry—a needless precaution, as all the seats are built with +a view to protect the passengers from the damp of the decks, +always rather moist after the early morning scrub and +scour. The daily bath is in much request. The young +Englishman must have his morning bath—a favourable sign, if +it be true that <a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +10</span>cleanliness is next to godliness. We are rather a +miscellaneous lot—there are Scotchmen, whose sweet Doric I +fail to understand, and Cockneys, who ignore the letter <i>h</i>; +but some of the ladies are charming, and that is saying a good +deal.</p> +<p>Long before we reach Naples the awnings are put up and we +rejoice in all the warmth of an English summer; and never did the +far-famed bay look more beautiful, and the towns and castles and +convents that line the cliffs in every direction for miles look +more bright. The usual babel of sounds reigned in the bay +as singers and divers and dealers in fruit and other articles of +Neapolitan production were clamorous to sell them. The +worst feature of the Neapolitan petty dealer is that he is too +anxious to kill the goose that lays the golden eggs. I know +of many English who stay in Rome merely because the people deal +fairer with the stranger within its gates. It is quite +otherwise in Naples. The native pays fourpence for his two +pounds of bread; the Englishman always has to pay +fivepence. It is in vain you go to another baker. For +a week he will charge you fourpence, and then he raises his +price. One peculiarity of the Naples tradesman is that men +of the same trade always stick together; and he does not spread +out his business like the English shopkeeper of to-day. For +instance, if he is a baker he does not deal in pastry, and the +pastrycook does not interfere with him. But away from the +trading classes the poverty of the people is really awful. +You see men very lightly dressed sleeping on the broad pavement +at all hours; and yet they adore their King, and are now building +him a grand new monument just in front of the Royal Palace. +Naples still needs better drainage; and the <a +name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>substitution +of current money in gold or silver for its copper coinage would +be a great improvement. Personally, this time I had no +reason to find fault with the people. I found an honest +boatman who rowed me to the ship for half a franc.</p> +<p>The one redeeming point in Naples is the untiring efforts of +the Protestant ministers of all denominations—Church, +Baptist, Presbyterian, and Wesleyan, the latter especially active +and doing a good work in the way of schools. I called in at +the Sailors’ Rest, an awful climb to get to, but a real +rest when you get there. The present missionary is Mr. +Burrowes, and his wife, the latter a genuine Scotchwoman of the +better sort. They deal in the institution and on board +ships with other peoples, with other religions and political +opinions, and the result is very satisfactory. The number +of destitute persons who have been relieved is as large as +ever. Seamen are relieved and weaned from drink. +Almost every evening there is something going on bright and +cheerful at the Rest. The Sunday evening services have been +found especially useful. After the evening service of a +Sunday a large number of men stop to sing their favourite hymns, +and the number of interesting temperance and religious works +circulated is very large. The English colporteur, Mr. +Copley, has given away 1,000 copies of the New Testament during +the year, and he is aided by a band of foreign colporteurs quite +as active as himself. It is work that ought to be more +liberally supported by Christians at home. The good it does +is great; its needs are pressing. I hope I may not appeal +for the Sailors’ Home of Rest at Naples in vain. +During the year 1895, 176 persons stayed in the Home, including +those sent there by the British <a name="page12"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 12</span>and foreign consuls, passing +travellers from ships. Many stayed only one night, such as +seamen from warships. About 140 persons got free teas, not +including the relief given to destitute people. It is a +pity that such a real good work should languish for want of +popular support amongst the wealthy English residents at Naples +and at home.</p> +<h2><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +13</span>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">NAPLES OF TO-DAY.</p> +<p>Once more I am in Naples, with its houses rising one over +another, in front of me, and Vesuvius looking down on me, and +across the loveliest bay the world has yet seen. There is +little to see in Naples beyond its museum, which no one should +omit to visit, and Pompeii, to which you are conveyed by train, +where you come face to face with ancient civilization and ancient +life. For the traveller the city is rich in hotels, and at +one of them—the Hôtel Vesuve, a magnificent structure +with stately halls—I once spent a happy week. I had +come with money enough to defray my two days’ expenses; +but, to my horror, I had to stay longer than I intended, and you +may judge of my delight when the manager, who knew me, at the end +of the week refused a penny for my board and daily food. I +wish I could speak as well of the shopkeepers, who fleece you as +much as possible, and are prone to give you bad money for +good.</p> +<p>The people are industrious, and mostly very poor; but they +don’t drink, and content themselves with water and a slice +of lemon—always on sale in the streets. They are +devout Roman Catholics, but, <a name="page14"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 14</span>nevertheless, an official said to me, +‘Morality is unknown here.’ I met with a man +from Newcastle, an engineer, who employs a thousand people here, +and gave them an excellent character. ‘Do you employ +any English?’ I asked. ‘Not one,’ was his +reply; ‘they drink too much and are too +troublesome.’ Taxes are awful and Custom dues +ditto. I landed here once with twenty-five cigars, a +present from one of the gentlemanly captains of the Orient +line. I could have put them in my pocket, and no one would +have been any wiser. I thought, however, ‘Italy is a +poor country, and I might as well contribute my mite towards its +exhausted exchequer.’ My confidence was misplaced; +for those cigars I had to pay a duty—incredible as it may +seem—of three shillings and ninepence! Only +fancy!</p> +<p>What I like best in Naples are its tram-cars, which are cheap, +and the attendants are civil. Riding and driving seem to be +the principal amusements of the people, especially on a Sunday, +when the poor horses have to rattle along with tremendous loads, +which makes one regret that in this part of the world there seems +to be no society for the prevention of cruelty to animals. +Pope Pius IX. did not think one required. Artistic +manufactures seem to constitute the staple trade. In every +hotel there are fine marble busts for sale. Vesuvius +supplies abundant lava, which is utilized in a thousand +forms. On many a housetop you may see the macaroni spread +out to dry, and in many a street you may watch through the +windows the tortoiseshell manufacturers at work. To the +city there appears to be no end, as it stretches away to the +right and left, and climbs up the hills on which it is <a +name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>built. +It boasts two Gothic cathedrals, and numerous churches, and many +public buildings of a handsome order. Little of female +loveliness, however, is to be seen in the streets—not half +so much as in Oxford Street at home any day in the week. +Miss Cobbe writes: ‘Naples struck me on my first +visit—as it has done again and again—as presenting +the proof that the Beautiful is not by itself the root out of +which the Good spontaneously grows.’ I quite agree +with Miss Cobbe.</p> +<p>In the wide and sunny expanse of blue waters that surrounds +Naples there is much to be seen. Rocky Capri lies just +opposite—the home of artists and English residents. +In the bay on our left are Baiæ and Puteoli, the latter the +port at which St. Paul landed on his way as a prisoner to Rome to +appeal to Cæsar. Baiæ was the Brighton of +ancient Rome; the remains of its temples and baths are scattered +freely among the fig-trees and olives of the peasant. +Emperors dwelt there. There Cæsar sought retirement, +and the warm springs on the side are yet called by his +name. Behind, Virgil placed the entrance of Avernus, and +not far off is his reputed tomb. Between Baiæ and +Puteoli was the Lucrine Lake, over which coloured sails wafted +the small yachts of fashionable visitors, and which contained the +oyster-beds for the luxurious tables of Rome. Vitellius the +beastly, as Gibbon calls him, seems to have been the greatest +oyster-eater in the ancient world. He is said to have eaten +oysters all day long and to have swallowed a thousand at a +sitting. There are no oysters in the Lucrine Lake now, for +the simple reason that an earthquake long ago destroyed the +lake. All <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +16</span>that now remains of that famous fishery is a small and +shallow stream, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip +of sand. Further north is Misenum, where Æneas came +to land; where the navy of old Rome rode secure; from whence +Pliny sailed away to get a nearer view of the celebrated eruption +of Vesuvius, and where he met with his death by the ashes +discharged from the burning mountain. On the other side of +the bay lie Sorrento and other charming spots. It was here +the Greeks sent colonists. The Greeks were the colonizing +people of antiquity, as much as the English are colonizing people +of to-day. It is pleasant of a night to stand on the deck +of the steamer to see the gas-lamps on the shore glittering like +glow-worms or fireflies all along the romantic coast.</p> +<p>If possible, the tourist should find time to have a look at +Pæstum. In his diary Rogers the poet thus describes +his visit: ‘Country green and level. The temples in a +plain shut in on three sides by the mountains, on the fourth open +to the sea; and the sea itself half shut in them by the +promontory of Sorrentum, within which are the Isles of the +Sirens. A magnificent theatre, worthy of such objects: the +columns almost bare—broken and of an iron-brown, like iron +rust; the floor green with moss and herbage; the columns and +cornices of the richest tints, and climbed by the green lizards +that fly into a thousand chinks and crevices at your approach; +fluted fragments of columns and moulded cornices among briars +strew the middle space between the temple and the +basilica.’ Let me add, the temples are all in the +same Doric style. Poseidonia, as its inhabitants, the Greek +<a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>colonists, +called it, was founded in the seventh century <span +class="smcap">b.c.</span>, and, as the name imports, was +specially sacred to Poseidon, or Neptune. The principal +temple, which was probably that of Neptune, was that of the sea +god.</p> +<p>Let me remind my readers that in the English burial-place at +Naples was laid one of the very greatest and best of +Englishwomen—the late Mrs. Somerville—where a marble +monument has been placed over her grave by her daughter. It +represents her, heroic size, reclining on a classic chair, in +somewhat the attitude of the statue of Agrippa in the +Vatican. It is a shame that she was not buried in +Westminster Abbey. When asked, Dean Stanley assented, as +was to be expected, freely to the proposal. Mrs. +Somerville’s nephew, Sir William Fraser, promised at once +to defray all expenses. There was only one thing further +needed, and that was the usual formal request from some public +body or official persons to the Dean and Chapter of +Westminster. Dean Stanley immediately wrote to the +Astronomer Royal and the President of the Royal Society, as +representative of the science with which Mrs. Somerville was +immediately connected, to ask him to authorize the Dean +proceeding in the matter. But that gentleman refused to do +so on the ground that he had never read Mrs. Somerville’s +books. ‘Whether he had read,’ writes Miss +Cobbe, commenting indignantly on the above, ‘one in which +she took the opposite side from his in the bitter Adam Le Verrier +controversy, it is not for me to say.’ Any way, +jealousy, either scientific or masculine, declined to admit Mrs. +Somerville’s claim to a place in our national Walhalla, +where so many men neither <a name="page18"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 18</span>intellectually nor morally her equal +have been received.</p> +<p>In one respect Naples has improved since I was here +last. The drainage has been rendered better, and the +fearful odours that met you at every turn have disappeared. +The poor are indolent, dirty, thriftless, and ill-housed; but +that does not much matter, as most of their lives are passed in +the open air. The convents are suppressed, the schoolmaster +is abroad, and they may grow better as the years roll by, and +Italy, as a nation, once more becomes great and renowned. +But a good deal has yet to be done. I heard of things to be +seen in Naples of the most disgraceful and disgusting +character. At the dawn of the Reformation Naples took the +lead among the Italian cities in the adoption of its +principles. Then came a bitter persecution, and the +triumphs of the Pope and the Inquisition. As the result, +Naples has been given up for years to the most abject +superstition, and its people have become the most ignorant and +demoralized in Europe. But the city is full of +life—far more so than is to be found in any other Italian +city. Such talking, shouting, and rushing to and fro can +hardly be found anywhere else. Nowhere is there more life +than is to be seen on the Toledo. One of the quaintest +objects is that of the letter-writer, seated at his desk in the +open air, with his clients waiting to have their letters +written—some of business, some of love. The +cab-driver is better than he looks, and it is not difficult to +get along with him. But you must be on your guard with +waiters. More than once one has come to me with a bad +franc, which he pretended I had given him; but I turned a deaf +ear to his complaint, and <a name="page19"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 19</span> +<a href="images/p19b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Bay of Naples. (From a photograph by Frith and Co., +Reigate.)" +title= +"The Bay of Naples. (From a photograph by Frith and Co., +Reigate.)" +src="images/p19s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>left +him to do the best he could with his spurious coin.</p> +<p>If you want to visit Vesuvius, apply at Cook’s offices, +where you will find everything arranged for you in the most +agreeable manner, and no difficulty of any kind. His +funicular railway is one of the wonders of the place. The +ascent of the cone requires two hours’ hard walking in deep +ashes and on hard rubble lava—an undertaking not very +pleasant for people affected with delicate hearts and +constitutions, or bordering on old age. Get into one of +Cook’s railway cars, and you are up in a few minutes. +At the lower station there is an excellent restaurant belonging +to the wonderful John Cook, whose headquarters are the Piazzi del +Martini. I dined once at his restaurant at the foot of the +cone, and it is one of the few dinners in my life to which I look +back with pleasure. I had a friend with me, of +course. It is never pleasant to travel—at any rate, +in a foreign country—alone. We had a good rumpsteak +and French beans, an omelette, and a bottle of the wine whose +praises were sung by Horace when the world was much younger and +fresher than it is now. After dinner we sat on the terrace, +drinking black coffee and smoking cigars. Of course, as an +Englishman, it gave me pleasure to reflect that our beautiful +Princess of Wales had been there before me in 1893, with Victoria +of Wales, the Duke of York, and a distinguished suite. As I +sat smoking, it seemed to me as if I was monarch of all I +surveyed. Naples was at my feet, far away behind was the +green Campagna, with but here and there a solitary dwelling, and +before me, in all its glory, the bay and its islands. If +old Sam Rogers had gone up there to write his <a +name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +21</span>‘Italy,’ I think he would have done better +than he did—at any rate, I was never so near heaven before; +and this reminds me that I have said nothing of the means of +grace available to English Protestants when they come to +Naples. There is an English Church in the San Pasquale +à Chiagia, a Scotch Presbyterian opposite Cook’s +offices, and a Methodist.</p> +<p>There are many ways of getting to Naples. I came this +time overland by Paris and Marseilles, and thence, as I have +said, by the <i>Midnight Sun</i>. If the weather is fine, +and the Bay of Biscay in good form, I prefer to come by the +Orient steamers right away from London. You have then no +trouble till you land in Naples. We leave Black Care behind +as we slip out of English fog and cold into the region of +cloudless skies and starry nights. We smoke, or read, or +feed, or walk the deck, or talk in the pleasantest manner. +Perhaps we get a glimpse of Finisterre. Heroic memories +come to us as we pass the seas where the <i>Captain</i> was +lost—it is to be feared in consequence of defective +seamanship. All along the coast and on those faraway hills +the noise of battle rolled, and not in vain, for the struggle +that ended in Waterloo placed England in the first rank among the +nations of the earth.</p> +<p>As soon as we cross the bay we think of Corunna and Sir John +Moore. Afar off are the memorable heights of Torres +Vedras. Cape St. Vincent, a bluff sixty feet high, with a +convent and a lighthouse, reminds one of the brilliant victory +won by Sir John Jervis, with Nelson and Collingwood fighting +under him; and in a little while we are at Trafalgar, to which +sailors still look as the greatest sea-fight in the history of +our land, and as the one that saved the nation; and <a +name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>then you +spend a day at Gibraltar. A Yankee friend once said to me, +‘I must go back to America. I can’t stay any +longer in Europe; I shall get too conceited if I do.’ +I, too, feel conceited as I skirt along that romantic coast, +which you sight in a few hours after leaving Plymouth. +Englishmen are always grumbling. There is no country like +England; and an Englishman who is not proud of his native land, +and ready to make every sacrifice for her, ought to be shot, and +would be if I had my way.</p> +<h2><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +23</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">POMPEII AND VESUVIUS.</p> +<p>It is needless to write that no one can go to Naples without +paying a visit to Pompeii, if he would get a true idea of a Roman +city, with its streets, and shops, and baths, and forum, and +temples; and it is as well to read over Bulwer’s +‘Last Days of Pompeii’—that master work of +genius, compared with which our present popular novels are poor +indeed—and then let the reader spend an entire day, if he +can, among the Pompeiian remains, in the museum at Naples, which +Garibaldi, when Dictator of Naples, handed over to the +people. Pompeii is easy of access by the railway, which +lands you at the very spot, after a short but pleasant +trip. Much can be accomplished there and back for a little +more than three francs. On Sundays Pompeii can be visited +for nothing; on other days the charge is one franc, and when you +have paid the guide the franc, I think you will agree with me +that in no other part of the world can you see so much that is +truly wonderful at so small an expense. Close to the gate +are a hotel—the Hôtel du Diomede—and a +restaurant, at either of which you can get all the refreshments +you require; and if it is too hot to walk—and in the summer +months Pompeii is a very hot <a name="page24"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 24</span>place indeed—there are chairs +in the grounds in which you can be carried all round and see all +that is to be seen at very little personal fatigue.</p> +<p>Pompeii is spread out in an elliptical form on the brow of a +hill, and extends over a space of nearly two miles. On one +side of you is Vesuvius, and on the other the blue waters of the +bay. One of the towns through which you pass in the train +is Portici, the ancient Herculaneum; as it is, you are lost in +wonder at the awful extent of the catastrophe which turned all +this smiling land into a scene of desolation and death, and +which, at any rate, led to the extinction of one philosophic +career—that of the elder Pliny, a real victim to the +pursuit of knowledge under difficulties. At the time of its +visitation, Pompeii is reputed to have had a population of about +26,000.</p> +<p>Imagination fails to realize the agony of the hour as the +swift, black, sulphurous death came down on all—the +patrician in his marble halls, the tradesman in his shop, the +miser at his desk, the devotees who cried to their gods for +safety in vain, the slave, the freedman, the aged, to whom life +had nothing to give, the tender, the beautiful, the young, to +whom life seemed an exhaustless dream of joy. As in the +days of the flood, there was marrying and giving in +marriage. Here the baker had fled, and left his loaves in +his oven; there was an eating-house, in which were found raisins, +olives, and fish cooked in oil. There stands the tavern, +indicated by the sign of the chequers, while the amphoræ of +wines are still marked with the year of the vintage. An +election was going on at the time of the catastrophe, and appeals +to the free and independent are still preserved. In one +place a schoolboy has <a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span>scratched his Greek alphabet. +In his sentry-box a sentinel was discovered, a grisly skeleton +clasping his rusty sword. And the streets tell a piteous +tale. In one a young man and woman had fallen together; in +another part a lady was discovered attempting to flee with a bag +of gold, and then there was seen the skeleton of a mother with +her children, whom she was vainly seeking to save. In the +house of Diomede, or, rather, in a vaulted cellar underneath, +eighteen bodies were found of men and women who had evidently +fled there for shelter. The probable proprietor of the +house was found near the garden door, with the key in his hand, +while beside him was a slave with valuables. It is evident +that the city was a scene of vice and dissipation. Some of +the inscriptions are too indecent to reproduce. I know not +whether for this it becomes us to point the finger of scorn, we +who read ‘Don Juan,’ who revel in Fielding, who +reverence Dean Swift, who know what goes on in Paris and London +by night, when respectability has gone to bed and Exeter Hall is +shut up.</p> +<p>Let me turn to the streets—they are very +narrow—and to the houses, which strike me as generally very +small. In that grand climate the people must have mostly +lived in the open air. One of the most elegant houses is +that of the Tragic Poet. On the threshold was a dog in +mosaic, with the inscription ‘Cave canem’—now +in the museum at Naples. I was much interested in the +public baths, or thermæ, which indicate with how much care +the ancient Romans attended to cleanliness and health. They +must have been on a somewhat extensive scale. A passage +leads to the chamber for undressing. Beyond this is the +cold bath. <a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +26</span>Thence we make our way to the warm bath, or +tepidarium. The baths also possessed an extensive +colonnade, now converted into a garden, besides several other +chambers and baths for women, none of which are now open to the +public. But we see wonders everywhere, in spite of the fact +that all that is best in Pompeii has been moved to the museum at +Naples, where remains one of the finest of the Pompeiian +mosaics—that representing a battle between Darius and +Alexander, which no one who wishes to have a competent idea of +ancient art should avoid going to see. Let me add that no +visitor should go to Pompeii without having first got a clear +idea of what he is going to see. The guides are but poor +helps, as mostly they speak nothing but Italian. Further, +let me say that if you have at Naples only the day allowed by the +Orient Company, while waiting for the overland mails, which +generally reach Naples in a little over two days and nights after +leaving London, your best plan is to get hold of Cook’s +agent, who reaches the ship in a boat with a flag bearing the +well-known name. He will take you off, drive you straight +to Pompeii, give you time to ‘do’ the place and to +get a good lunch there, and bring you back in time to the ship to +pursue the even tenor of your way to Egypt, or Ceylon, or +Australia, as the case may be. If you have time, pursue +your studies by a day in the museum, or more if you can. It +is there you can realize best, as you study the grand statues of +great men and women and gods and goddesses, the Diana of Ephesus +being one of them—statues in which the</p> +<blockquote><p> ‘Majesty of human +passion<br /> +Is to the life expressed’—</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page27"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 27</span> +<a href="images/p27b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Temple of Venus, Pompeii. (From a photograph by Fradelle and +Young.)" +title= +"Temple of Venus, Pompeii. (From a photograph by Fradelle and +Young.)" +src="images/p27s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>what +men the world’s masters were. Nero has a shocking +head; Caligula looks an empty-headed fop; but I gazed admiringly +on the grand features of my guide, philosopher, and +friend—Marcus Aurelius. And I thought of Voltaire, as +I stood opposite the noble statue of Julius Cæsar, on your +left just as you enter the museum. Voltaire tells us men +may be divided into two classes—hammers and anvils. +Julius Cæsar evidently belonged to the former class. +It was there, too, I saw a Venus, radiant in innocence and beauty +and sweetness and grace, as if new ‘bathed in Paphian +foam’—the only Venus I ever could have loved. +But I had no guide-book, and the day was hot, and all the +attendants were fast asleep.</p> +<p>Let me add a caution: Never change money if you can help +it. You are sure to get a bad franc if you do. At +Pompeii the guide tried it on with me. Again, while waiting +for the train at Pompeii, I was tempted to have a deal with a +pedlar, who asked me ten francs for souvenirs, which I +subsequently bought, after a good deal of haggling, for +five. Unfortunately, I had only a ten-franc note, and he +had to give me change—not in coppers, as they generally do +in Naples, where silver is scarce, but in francs; and one of them +was bad, as I found out when I went to the museum next day. +To my disgust, the civil gentleman who takes the money kindly cut +it in two.</p> +<p>‘I will call for you at a quarter-past seven,’ +said Cook’s agent to me, as he left the <i>Ormuz</i>.</p> +<p>‘Come at that hour,’ I replied; ‘I will be +ready.’</p> +<p>Alas! man proposes—often in vain. I went to bed +early. I had made arrangements for an early meal. I +had agreed to see that a fellow-passenger who was <a +name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>to come +should be ready; but I could not sleep—the heat in the bay +was too great, the odour of the tide-less waters seemed to +possess my soul, and as I lay awake all the chronic diseases by +which I am borne down reasserted themselves, and I didn’t +get a wink of sleep till just as it was time to get up. I +have an early breakfast, and yet there is no sign of Cook’s +agent. In due time I see him, and my friend and I and +Cook’s agent are rowed on shore, and we drive to +Cook’s headquarters. There we are put into a carriage +drawn by three horses, and away we go along the crowded +streets. What a display we have on every side of the +unwashed, as they sit at the shop doors, or at the corners of the +long narrow alleys in which most of them live! There are +naked children, hideous old women, and very unlovely young +ones. A fat priest passes with his beaver hat and black +robes, and a young woman rushes at him and kisses his hand. +The priest and the militaire are to be seen everywhere. No +wonder the country is poor.</p> +<p>As we proceed the ground begins to rise, and we see pleasant +villas with decent gardens. As we rise so does the dust; +for mostly we are shut in between two walls, over which we see +the vine hang heavily, or apricots glitter among the green +branches on either side. Here and there is a break in the +wall, and, seated at rustic tables, peasants and their families +are enjoying a holiday, looking under their vine arbours across +the blue bay or pleasant Capri, or glancing upward at the smoking +mountain above. At one of these wayside publics our driver +stops to water horses, which are useful animals, and, in spite of +the heat, never turn a hair. We enter the principal room, +at <a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>one end +of which is a big bed, while nearer the door is a table with wine +and glasses, and fruit, and specimens of lava and other +matters. My friend, with the recklessness of youth, spends +his money. I refuse to do anything of the kind; and again +our coachman urges on his wild career. He pulls up again as +a woman rushes out of her cabin to offer us drink. Again we +are tempted, and in vain. Then we reach a level of reeds +and rushes, where resides a venerable and unwashed hermit, who +sighs as he turns in and thinks of the hardness of our +hearts. We are now nearly out of the cultivated land, as we +see the gigantic fields of lava on every side; where it can all +have come from is a mystery. You can scarcely realize how +all this lava—stretched on every hand, far and +wide—can ever have come out of that crater. There +seems more lava than you could get into the mountain itself; and +how terrible must have been the scene when the red-hot lava +rushed down the mountain-side, overwhelming green vines, and +square-roofed huts, and living animals, and smiling babes, and +weak and helpless old age! As it cooled, it seems to have +wreathed itself into a thousand fantastic shapes—and yet +the scene is fair and tranquil. A small wreath of smoke at +the top only suggests a feeble fire within, and down far below +the blue Mediterranean sleeps, and gay Naples sparkles, and the +great Campagna opens up its vast green solitudes, save where, +here and there, a white-stoned villa varies its monotony. +Around me animal life exists not. The yellow birch blooms +in her golden beauty, that is all, and the common white butterfly +of England has the upper airs all to herself.</p> +<p>As we reach the observatory—an oasis in the +desert—<a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +31</span>we meet a couple of sportsmen; they have a gun between +them, though why I cannot understand, as I see nothing to shoot +at but lizards, and so we are drawn slowly on the dusty road, +which zigzags in the most wonderful manner every few yards. +We enter through a gateway which, I presume, marks the bounds of +the Cook territory, as one of his agents takes a look at our +tickets. With joy our brown-faced coachman points us to a +white, flat-roofed building, which he declares truly is the +hotel, where he intimates we can have lunch, and where he +intimates he can do the same if we will supply the +cash—which we do, though he had no right to ask +it—and weaned and parched we enter the grateful portals of +the hotel to feast, and to enjoy a refreshing breeze, which we +should have sought for in Naples in vain. As I rested +there, I felt no wish to depart either upwards or downwards.</p> +<p>Of course the summer is the bad time for the crater. In +the season Cook has his pilgrims, sometimes to the number of 200 +a day. The cars are airy and light. As one goes up, +another descends, and thus the work goes on under the care of an +able German, who caught a fever in Egypt, and has been ordered +here for the benefit of his health. The whole country +should be called Cooksland. It is there John Cook reigns +supreme. Just as I was leaving London a Leicester gentleman +said to me: ‘I wonder Mr. Gladstone did not make John Cook +a baronet.’ ‘The man who does what Mr. Cook +does, for all travellers, whatever their nationality, surely +deserves public recognition,’ says a commercial Dutchman to +me as I write; ‘I am off to Palermo and Catana and +Messina. I have taken Cook’s tickets for all the +way.’</p> +<p><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>I found +in my subsequent travels every one of us had more or less to +enjoy the assistance of Cook’s agents. In many cases +travellers derive great pecuniary benefit from doing so. I +remember a friend of mine got some money changed for him by +Cook’s agent on very much cheaper terms than he could +anywhere else.</p> +<p>Italy is a poor country; yet it displays a sense of humour +highly creditable under the circumstances. The site of the +Custom House in Naples is locally known as the Immaculate.</p> +<h2><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +33</span>CHAPTER V.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE ISLES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.</p> +<p>Remember, as the great Dr. Johnson remarks, how life consists +not of a series of illustrious actions or elegant enjoyments; the +greater part of our time passes in compliance with necessities in +the performance of daily duties, in the procurement of petty +pleasures; and we are well or ill at ease as the main stream of +life glides on smoothly, or is ruffled by small obstacles and +frequent interruptions. This is emphatically true as +regards life at sea. But as we steam along we see much to +attract and excite in the isles of the Mediterranean, that +diversify the travel all the way from Marseilles to Jaffa. +It is said that there are eighty ports in the Mediterranean, and +that into all of them Lord Brassey can take his yacht without a +pilot. Alas! I am permitted to tarry at none of them.</p> +<p>As we sail out of the Bay of Naples we pass Capri—a +rocky island, where there is scarce a yard of level +ground—dear to Englishmen and artists. The highest +point of Capri is about 1,960 feet above the sea. The +traveller will find there several hotels. Roman remains +abound, and Tiberius, the drunken and dissolute, had twelve +palaces there. There he was in no fear of unwelcome <a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>intrusion, +and gave himself up to shameless and unnatural lusts; while his +worthy lieutenant, Sejanus, carried on a series of persecutions +against all who stood in any relation to the imperial family, or +excited the suspicions of the tyrant by freedom of speech, +independence of character, or position, or popularity. The +famous Blue Grotto of Capri is on the northern side, near the +landing. In the great war with France, Sir Hudson +Lowe—the same General who had subsequently charge of +Bonaparte at St. Helena—had to surrender the island to +Murat, after a fortnight’s siege, and had the mortification +of seeing reinforcements arrive just after the treaty was +signed. Leaving Capri, the Gulf of Salerno opens; +Pæstum, with its temples, lying on the southern bight of +the gulf. Then follows the elevated headland of Cape +Palinure—named after Palinurus, the pilot of Æneas, +whose tomb is marked by a tower on the cliff some eight miles +northward, thus fulfilling the Sibyl’s promise in the +‘Æneid,’</p> +<blockquote><p>‘And Palinurus’ name the place shall +bear.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We next get a peep at the now active volcano of Stromboli, and +the Lipari Islands to the northward. On these islands, the +Insulæ-Eoliæ, also the Vulcaniæ of the +ancients, Æolus held the winds enclosed in caverns, letting +them blow and howl as it seemed good in his sight. There, +too, Vulcan forged the bolts of Jove.</p> +<p>From Naples we steer for Sicily, once, though only for a short +time, prosperous under British rule, when we took possession of +it in the name of the King of Naples, after he was driven away +from Italy by the <a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +35</span>soldiers of France. Garibaldi handed it over to +United Italy. Sicily is a country which is almost unknown +to tourists, though in his youth Mr. Gladstone visited the island +and wrote: ‘After Etna, the temples are the great charm and +attraction of Sicily. I do not know whether there is any +one, if taken alone, which exceeds in interest and beauty that of +Neptune at Pæstum, but they have the advantage of number +and variety as well as of interesting position.’ We +pass Catania, which had the most celebrated University in +Italy. The present town is comparatively new; many of its +more ancient remains are covered with lava; among them the +theatre, from which it is probable Alcibiades addressed the +people in <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 415. What +memories rose up before us as we steamed along the Straits of +Messina! It was from Syracuse that St. Paul sailed away to +Reggio, on the coast of Italy, and all the parsons on board pull +out their Testaments and compare notes. I trow I know more +of the Greeks, and Romans, and Carthaginians, who shed so much +blood, and waged so many desolating wars in these now peaceful +regions. The town was founded by the Greeks nearly 3,000 +years ago. All the nations seem at one time to have held +Sicily—Romans, Greeks, Moors, Turks, and Normans. +There are some of us who can yet remember how Cicero thundered +against Verres for his misgovernment of Sicily. It was to +Sicily that Æschylus retired to die after Sophocles had +borne away the prize from him for his tragedy. The pet of +the Athenian mob, the gay and graceful Alcibiades, fought against +the Sicilians in vain. At that time they must have been a +more intelligent people than they are now. Take, for +instance, their appreciation of <a name="page36"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 36</span>Euripides. Of all the poets, +writes old Plutarch, he was the man with whom the Sicilians were +most in love. From every stranger that landed in their +island they gained every small specimen or portion of his works, +and communicated it with pleasure to each other. It is said +that on one occasion a number of Athenians, upon their return +home defeated, went to Euripides and thanked him for teaching +their masters what they remembered of his poems; and others were +rewarded when they were wandering about after the battle, for +singing a few of his verses. Nor is this to be wondered at, +since they tell us that when a ship from Cannes, which happened +to be pursued by pirates, was going to take shelter in one of +their ports, the Sicilians at first refused to receive her. +Upon asking the crew whether they knew any of the verses of +Euripides, and being answered in the affirmative, they released +both them and their vessel. We are a cultured people. +The Americans, according to their own ideas, are yet more +so. Yet it is evident that the Sicilians were far before us +in their admiration of poetic genius. Alas! Pompey the +Great, as we still call him, gave the Sicilians a different +lesson when he summoned the people of Messina before him, who +refused to obey his summons, arguing that they stood excused by +an ancient privilege granted them by the Romans. His reply +was, and it was worthy of the present Emperor of Germany, +‘Will you never have done citing laws and privileges to men +who wear swords?’ Another lesson Sicily teaches us is +how much readier the world is to remember its oppressors than its +benefactors. We all have a vivid impression of Dionysius, +the Tyrant of Syracuse, yet how few of us <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>are familiar +with the fame of Dion the Patriot, who was the pupil of Plato +when the philosopher dwelt for a time in Syracuse. It is to +the credit of the Sicilians that they were a grateful +people. When Timoleon died they gave him a public funeral, +and instituted games in his honour, ‘as the man who +destroyed tyrants, subdued barbarians, repeopled great cities +which lay desolate, and restored the Sicilians their laws and +privileges.’</p> +<p>Gradually we make our way through the Straits, sailing between +Scylla and Charybdis, which for the modern traveller has no +terrors. Our last view of Sicily gives us a fine glimpse of +Etna, with the crater into which Empedocles threw himself, 400 +<span class="smcap">b.c.</span> Men are immortalized as +much by their follies as by their virtues. As we onward +press we get a glimpse of Candia, with the snowy peaks of Mount +Ida, and Gavodo, or Goro, supposed to be the Clauda of St. +Paul’s voyage to the westward. What associations rise +as we see Cephalonia, Zante, Corfu!—all looking dry and +bare in the scorching sun. We manage to make our way, +though with some difficulty, through the Canal of Corinth, a work +which I fear can never pay, as it is not large enough for the big +steamers which now plough these waters. Everywhere islands, +or rather rocks, diversify the scene, and every day we have more +radiant sunsets and sunrises than you can realize in a Northern +clime. To sail on this summer sea is indeed a treat. +No wonder old Ulysses loved to wander among these isles, and to +leave Penelope to do her knitting and to look after her maids at +home. I regret that I cannot have a peep at Crete and +Cyprus, the most famous islands <a name="page38"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 38</span>in the Mediterranean, and we pass +over the far-famed bay of Salamis almost unconsciously.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p38b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Corinth Canal (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +title= +"The Corinth Canal (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +src="images/p38s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It is not my privilege to sail from one of the historic isles +of the Mediterranean to another, nor do I know that in all cases +it would be safe. In many cases besides Corsica and Sicily +the traveller has to look to his ways. There are brigands +to be met with still and as we travelled we heard of a British +officer who had just been made captive as he wandered about in +search of a day’s shooting. As you may well suppose, +I gave the brigands a wide berth. I am quite content with +being fleeced by guides and hotel-keepers. When I was in +Australia, I was amused to learn that <a name="page39"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 39</span>the last of the bushrangers had +sailed to America to carry on a hotel. I fear that in many +parts of the world the two callings have much in common. I +believe the British pay no taxes—at any rate, they do not +in Jerusalem—and this is one reason why we meet with such +swarms of shady Greeks who claim to be British subjects. In +this part of the world the <i>Civis Romanus sum</i> of old +Palmerston seems to me in danger of being carried a deal too +far. Not that I am a Little Englander; I am, in fact, very +much the reverse.</p> +<p>Over these waters sailed the hardy mariners of ancient Greece +in search of the Golden Fleece, and the brave Theseus, as he went +to do battle with the monster Minos, who demanded a yearly +tribute of Athenian maids. We all went on deck to have a +look at Patmos, where the Apostle John wrote that wondrous dream, +the Revelation, and viewed with interest the white convent on the +island which still bears his name.</p> +<p>In the Sea of Marmora we pass the Princes Islands, four of +which are inhabited. In one of them is the grave of Sir +Edward Barton, the first resident British Ambassador in +Turkey. He was sent by Queen Elizabeth to the Sultan +Mahommed III., and died in 1507. Another of them, Plati, +was purchased by Sir H. Bulwer while Ambassador to +Constantinople. He built a castle on it, which is now +falling into ruins, and later sold the island to the ex-Khedive +of Egypt, to whose family it still belongs. Steaming south, +we pass Alexandria Troas, which was twice visited by St. +Paul. On the first occasion he came down from Mysia and +went to Macedonia; on the second, on his return from Greece, he +had an interview with a large <a name="page40"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 40</span>body of fellow-workers. It was +there he restored Eutychus, who had fallen from an upper window +in his sleep.</p> +<p>Next we pass the ancient island of Lesbos, one of the most +beautiful in the Ægean Sea. Islands are around us +everywhere. There is no end to them. The most thickly +populated of them is Chio; another is Cos, of which we see the +chief town, the birthplace of Hippocrates, the great +physician. Then we pass Rhodes, famous for its renowned +knights, who did battle with the ever-advancing Turk, of whom +Luther had such fear, and its grand Colossus overthrown and +broken in pieces by an earthquake fifty-six years after its +erection, <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 224; and then we leave +the lovely Mediterranean at Jaffa, where, according to Greek +mythology, Andromeda was chained to the rock and delivered by +Perseus, and where the prophet Jonah embarked when he tried to +escape the command of God to go and warn Nineveh of its impending +fate. Of course I went to the house where St. Peter lived, +the dwelling of Simon the tanner, a very dreary, tumbledown old +place, which required a good deal of climbing, rather trying in +that sultry clime. And here I leave that wonderful +Mediterranean over which the navies of all the world in all ages +have swept.</p> +<blockquote><p> ‘Thy shores are empires, +changed in all save thee—<br /> + Assyria, Greece, Rome, Carthage, what are they?<br +/> + Thy waters washed them power while they were +free,<br /> + And many a tyrant since; their shores obey<br /> + The stranger, slave, or savage; their decay<br /> + Has dried up realms to deserts: not so thou;<br /> + Unchangeable save to thy wild waves’ +play—<br /> + Time writes no wrinkles on thine azure +brow—<br /> +Such as Creation’s dawn beheld, thou rollest +now.’</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +41</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">ABOUT ATHENS.</p> +<p>For the first time in my life, I realize the fact that the +Mediterranean is a lake—calm and blue as the eyes we +love. What astonishes me is the absence of life in these +waters. All is barren as that dreary sail across the Indian +Ocean from Ceylon to West Australia. Really, if it were not +for the photographers, who are always at work on board, we should +be rather dull. It is really wonderful the number of +amateur photographers who have come out in the <i>Midnight +Sun</i>, and are daily having recourse to their art; and +sometimes the consequences are ludicrous. For instance, we +have a considerable number of respectable married people on +board. Amongst them are a young couple whose experience of +matrimonial felicity has been, I suspect, somewhat of the +shortest. One morning they were ‘far from the madding +crowd,’ indulging in little familiarities, such as leaning +on one another’s shoulders—quite proper, as we must +all admit, but rather suited for private than public life. +Well, a photographer had his eye on them, and straightway made +them his victims. There they were, large and fully +recognisable. His praiseworthy <a name="page42"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 42</span>attempt was greeted with a roar of +laughter, of which the victims, far away (the artist was on the +upper deck), had not the remotest idea. Let me add the +moral: let me beg the newly-married ones to beware of the +photographers. More numerous than the photographers are the +ladies and gentlemen who spend their mornings in writing their +diaries—if with a view to publication, a sad look-out.</p> +<p>In due time we reach Attica, and are landed at the +Piræus, which is busy now as when Themistocles planned the +harbour and Pericles planted its walls, five miles in +length. The town has quite a modern look; nothing of its +ancient glory remains. Its modern history dates from +1834. A modern lighthouse marks the site of the tomb of +Themistocles. A railway, made in 1869, now connects the +Piræus with Athens, and it grows apace. In old times +there was rarely to be seen any boat in the harbour. In +1871 the population was only 11,000; in 1890 it had grown to +36,000, About 6,000 vessels of over two and a half millions of +tonnage, one half of which is in Greek bottoms, enter the harbour +annually. As a town, it consists chiefly of commercial +buildings and unpretending private residences. It has, +however, an arsenal, a military and naval school, several +handsome churches for the orthodox members of the Greek Church, +an interesting museum of antiquities, and a gymnasium. +Trains run to Athens through the whole day until midnight. +We land in a homely quarter of the town. ‘It is in +the spring,’ writes Edmond About, ‘one sees Attica in +her glory, when the air is so clear and transparent that it seems +as if one had only to put forth one’s hand to touch the +furthest mountains; when <a name="page43"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 43</span>it carries sounds so faithfully that +one can hear the bleating of flocks half a mile away, and the +cries of great eagles, which are lost to sight in the immensity +of the skies.’</p> +<p>I find Athens hot and dusty—a fine white dust, which +makes everything look desolate. I get hold of a plan of +Athens, showing me how to make the most of six days, but as I +have not that time to spare, one’s first thoughts turn +naturally to the Acropolis, a rocky plateau of crystallized +limestone, rising to about 200 feet. Romans, Goths, +Byzantines, and Turks have done their best to make Athens a heap +of ruins. It was well that Lord Elgin did so much to +preserve some of the choicest relics of Athens by bringing them +to England and sending them to the British Museum. Had he +not done so, they would have been inevitably destroyed by the +unspeakable Turk, a fact deeply to be deplored.</p> +<p>One night we had an amusing illustration of the qualification +of the fair sex for the right to rule over man. There was a +concert in the smoking-room, the finest apartment in the +ship. Amongst the performers were some ladies, and a good +many were auditors. Suddenly a large rat made its +appearance, when all the ladies, shrieking, fled. I may not +be equal to the New Woman—of course she is far above +me—but, at any rate, I am not afraid to face a rat. +Fancy a rat appearing in the House of Commons with a lady speaker +on her legs, and a Government of ladies seated gracefully and in +the loveliest of toilettes! The result would be appalling +and disastrous.</p> +<p>The country through which we passed was quite dried up, and +quite prepared me for the tasteless beef <a +name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>and skinny +fowl of which I was to partake afterwards at the Hôtel +Grand Bretagne, where they charged me two francs for a cigar; and +where, when I remonstrated, I was told that the taxes were so +high that they could not afford to let me have one for +less. There are a great many trees about, but they have all +a dwarfed and dried-up appearance. Far off rises the great +Acropolis; you may see it from the steps of the hotel, and the +ruins on its top. The life of the streets amuses me. +It is incessant and ever varying. The soldier is +conspicuous, as he is everywhere on the Continent; priests in +black robes and peculiar black hats are plentiful, grave and +black-bearded, though I am told that in reality they have little +hold on the people of Athens. I have been in one of the +churches, very dark, and with a lot of ornamentation; and quite a +number of people—very old ones—came and crossed +themselves, after the Greek fashion, before a picture just inside +the door. Ladies are to be seen, few of them with any +particular personal charm, but all in the latest fashions of +Paris; and there come the girls with pigtails. I see one of +the French illustrated newspapers everywhere. Among the +daily papers published in Athens are the <i>Ora</i> (Hour), the +<i>Plinghensia</i> (Regeneration), <i>Neai Ideai</i> (New Idea), +<i>Aion</i> (Era), <i>Toia</i> (Morning), and <i>Telegrafui</i> +(The Telegram). The most curious people you see are the men +from the country, with black waistcoats, white petticoats—I +can give them no other name—dark hose, and antique-looking +shoes turned up at the toes and decorated—why, I know +not—with enormous tufts. The living objects I most +pity are the forlorn, half-starved donkeys, loaded fore and aft +<a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>with +luggage, while in the centre, on his saddle, is seated his +hard-hearted proprietor. Some of the shops are fine, but +few of the houses are lofty—the most striking being modern +buildings, built on the plan to admit as much air as possible, +and to exclude the light. But you see no beggars in the +streets, and that is a good sign. Greece has, as you know, +the most democratic Government of any. The King, who is not +very popular, reigns, but does not govern. The real power +is in the hands of the Legislative Chamber—there is no +Upper House—consisting of 150 members, all paid for their +services, and elected by means of universal suffrage and the +ballot every four years. The population of Athens is about +160,000, with the addition of 3,000 Armenian refugees who have +found there a city of refuge. Education is free and +compulsory, reaching from the lowest strata to the University, so +that every lad of talent has a chance. If democracy can +make a people happy and content and prosperous, the Greeks ought +to be content. There must be a good many wealthy men at +Athens, however, whom the democracy have wisely spared. It +is not right to kill the goose that lays the golden egg, as is +desired by some of our Socialists.</p> +<p>Modern Greece, with the exception of America, is the most +republican Government in existence; at any rate, it is ahead of +England in this respect. We want, or, rather, some people +do, who do not know any better, to agitate for payment of +members. I object because I have seen the mischief of paid +members in all our colonies, and because when I part with my +scanty cash I like to have value for my money; and as I know the +average M.P., I think he is dear at any price. The men <a +name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>in office are +bitterly opposed by the men who languish in the cold shade of +Opposition, and that really seems the only line of +cleavage. For instance, if a Minister proposes that a +certain work should be done by a certain number of horses, the +Opposition argue that oxen should be used, and so the battle +rages, for the modern Greek, degenerate though he is, is still as +fond of talk and windy declamation as any long-winded and +ambitious M.P. at home. Ministers, though appointed by the +King, are amenable to the Chamber, but under this system we do +not hear of the great Parliament, such as we have at home or in +Italy or France.</p> +<p>For administrative purposes Greece is divided into sixteen +monarchies, governed by municipalities, who alone have the power +to levy rates and taxes. These monarchies are divided into +eparchies and domarchies, the later under the control of the +mayor, elected by the people. Thus in Greece alone, in the +Old World, we have government of the people and for the +people. For purposes of justice there are local courts; +five Courts of Appeal, and a Supreme Court at Athens. In +matters of education, again, Greece is far ahead of us. We +want to connect the people with the Universities, so that the +poorest lad may have his chance. In Greece this result is +obtained. Ample provision is made for the elementary +schools, leading from the lowest strata of society up to the +Universities, free and compulsory—not that the latter +provision needs to be enforced, as naturally there is a great +desire for education all over the land. The Greek Church is +the established one, but any undue zeal on the part of the priest +is held in check both by law and the spirit of <a +name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>religious +toleration. Among her subjects Greece reckons as many as +25,000 Moslems.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p47.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Temple Of Victory. (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +title= +"Temple Of Victory. (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +src="images/p47.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Passing out of the Piræus, to our right we notice a +monument to the memory of one of the wild heroes of Grecian +Independence, whose insolent followers were a great trouble to +our Lord Byron during his fatal sojourn at Missolonghi. In +due time we arrive within sight of the Temple of Theseus and the +other well <a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +48</span>known landmarks familiar to the cultivated reader. +Nevertheless, the approach to Athens is not very interesting, as +we enter through one of its most homely quarters. The +principal modern institutions are the Polytechnic School, divided +into three branches—the School of Fine Art, the Industrial +School, and the Holiday School, where on Sundays and feast-days +instruction is given in writing, elementary drawing, etc.; there +is also a School of Telegraphy. In the same neighbourhood +is also to be found the Academy of Science; next to the Academy +is the University, adorned with statues of the famous men who +helped to make modern Greece. The classes at the University +are practically free, and the number of students attending is +generally between 3,000 and 4,000. The library in +connection with the University has 100,000 volumes.</p> +<p>It is impossible to do justice to the activity of the life in +these parts; there are many steamers in the harbour—I saw +two steam away one morning. Naples seems a very sleepy +place compared to the Piræus. Little white boats, +with leg-of-mutton sails, skim the blue waters of the harbour all +day long, and the men are lean and dark, and wonderfully active, +a great contrast to our English sailors. Once upon a time, +coming from New York, we called off Portland Bill for a +pilot. It was midnight, and dark as Erebus, but we all sat +up waiting for the pilot, to hear the English news. +Suddenly there climbed up the ship’s side, and stood on the +deck in the full glare of light, two awful living mountains of +flesh, as fat as beer and bacon could make them—a couple of +English pilots. We had some skinny American ladies on +board, and when they saw these men they uttered quite an +appalling shriek. <a name="page49"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 49</span>They had never seen such specimens of +humanity before. I own I felt really ashamed of my +fellow-countrymen, and asked myself why on earth men should make +themselves such guys. Happily, in Australia I lost a couple +of stone, and I have been mercifully preserved from laying on +flesh ever since. Flesh is the great source of human +depravity. With Falstaff, I hold the more of it the more +frailty.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p49b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Parthenon. (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +title= +"The Parthenon. (From a photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +src="images/p49s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>And now let me return to Athens, the Acropolis of which I see +in all its glory, and on which by night lights gleam that you can +see in the harbour, crowning the belt of bright lamps which by +night glorify the whole front of the town. They show you +Mars’ Hill, <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +50</span>where Paul preached the unknown God; the porch of the +Erechtheum, sacred to the olive-tree, brought to Greece by +Athene; and the Parthenon, which still attests the genius of +Phidias. Of Athens it may be said:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Her shores are those whence many a mighty +bard<br /> + Caught inspiration glorious in their beams;<br /> +Her hills the same that heroes died to guard,<br /> + Her vales that fostered Art’s divinest +dreams.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Modern Athens is bright and cheerful, the shops gay and lofty, +with well-known Greek names. The latter remark also applies +to the streets. The hotels are magnificent. The +Hôtel d’Angleterre is well spoken of, and the +dragoman Apostoles will be found an intelligent servant, who will +arrange for the traveller who is disposed to make an excursion in +the Morea for food, lodging, mules or horses at a reasonable +rate. The Hôtel Grand Bretagne, just opposite the +palace—and a far finer building to look at—is about +as good a hotel as I was ever in. The rooms seem awfully +dark as you enter from the glare of the ever-shining sun, but the +rooms are lofty, well ventilated, and everywhere you have marble +floors and marble columns, and the feeding is good, considering +what a parched-up land Greece is, and how dried-up its beef and +skinny its poultry. I have seen cheaper hotels in Athens, +such as the Hôtel des Iles Ionienic, the proprietor of +which, a Greek from Corfu, strongly recommended it to me; but on +the whole, in such a place as Athens, I should think it +preferable to pay a little more for the comfort of a first-class +hotel, even though it may make one indifferent to the +‘Laurels’ or the ‘Cedars’ of his own +native land.</p> +<p><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>How to +live rationally is an art the majority of Englishmen have not yet +acquired. I leave Athens with regret; its people are all +industrious. At any rate, there are no beggars in its +streets; and if this be the result of its democratic Government, +so much the better for the coming democracy, which, whether we +like it or not, is sure to rule at home. Here the +Government is popular, and the people are content. +Manufactures are almost unknown. They have a woollen +factory at Athens, and a cotton-mill in the Piræus, and +there must be a busy agricultural population, as a good deal of +the land between the Piræus and the capital is laid out in +market-gardens. I am troubled as I think of our great +cities, with their vices and slums. I hold, with the poet, +God made the country and man the town.</p> +<p>It is a chequered history, that of Athens. Once it was +occupied by the Goths. The Romans fortified it; but the +ancient walls, which had been strengthened by Sylla, were unequal +to its defence, and the barbarians became masters of the noble +seats of the Muses and the Arts. Zosimus tells us that the +walls of Athens were guarded by the goddess Minerva, with her +formidable ægis, and by the angry phantom of Achilles, and +that the conqueror was dismayed by the presence of the hostile +gods of Greece. Yet, nevertheless, Alaric a second time +mastered the city by means of his barbarian troops. It is +wonderful that any remains of the Athens of its prime +exist. As it is, it requires a good deal of enthusiasm to +‘do’ its ruins, with which photography has long made +the world familiar. The glory of the Parthenon, however, +remains. Gibbon tells us in the sack of Athens the Goths +had collected <a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +52</span>all the libraries, and were about to set fire to them, +when one of the chiefs, of more refined policy than his brethren, +dissuaded them from the design by the profound observation that +as long as the Greeks were exercised in the study of books they +would never apply themselves to the exercise of arms. But, +as Gibbon writes, the Gothic arms were less fatal to the schools +of Athens than the establishment of a new religion, whose masters +resolved every question into an article of faith, and condemned +the infidel to eternal flames. For centuries Athens had +flourished by means of her schools. After the settlement of +the Roman Empire, it was filled with scholars from every part of +the known world, even including students from Britain. In +the suburbs of the city tradition still lingered of the Academy +of the Platonists, the Lycæum of the Peripatetics, the +Portico of the Stoics, and the Garden of Epicurus. The +Attic schools of rhetoric and philosophy maintained their +reputation from the Peloponnesian war to the reign of +Justinian. It was he who suppressed the school which had +given so many sages to mankind, and whose influences have +quickened and invigorated the human intellect ever since. +The art of oratory may soon be held to be almost a doubtful +boon—at any rate, so far as senates and parliaments are +concerned. It was not so when the eloquence of +Demosthenes</p> + +<blockquote><p> ‘shook +the arsenal,<br /> +And fulmined over Greece.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Some of my fellow-passengers made their way to Eleusis, but +they came back disappointed, and covered with dust. It was +enough for me to study the life of the streets—full of +soldiers and black-robed priests.</p> +<p><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>The +traveller who, remembering the long period of Turkish sway, +counts on receiving an Oriental impression from the aspect of +Athens is doomed to disappointment. Even the national garb +is fast disappearing. It may still be worn by a few elderly +Athenians. These, and a peasant here and there selling milk +or cheese, recall the day when their dress was the national +one. The wide blue trousers of the Ægean islanders +are not less rare, nor is there much chance of seeing them at the +Piræus, among the craft from the various islands moored +along the quays. The uglier and cheaper product of the +slop-shop has replaced the picturesque drapery of the olden +time.</p> +<p>Sooner or later Athens is sure to become a winter resort not +less favoured than any on the Mediterranean, and the permanent +home of many foreigners. The opinion thus confidently +expressed is strengthened by the fact that few who have lived for +some length of time within its gates pass out of them without +regret, or fail to re-enter them with pleasure. At any +rate, so writes a learned American.</p> +<p>A gentleman has written explaining that Greece is bankrupt +because she is so small. He says that out of 5,000,000 +Greeks who rose in 1821 against the Turk, less than 1,000,000 +were allowed to form part of the Hellenic kingdom. The +obvious reply to this is, Why don’t they go and live in +Greece if they really want to? Nobody forces them to live +elsewhere, and they can hardly be waiting till Constantinople, +Asia Minor and Cyprus are added to King George’s +kingdom. The truth is that in business Greek would rather +not meet Greek; there is more money in meeting somebody +else. The rich Greeks will always be found outside +Greece.</p> +<h2><a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +54</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">CONSTANTINOPLE.</p> +<p>I am in Constantinople, founded 658 <span +class="smcap">b.c.</span> by Byza, King of Megara, after whom it +was called Byzantium. After some hundreds of years it fell +into the hands of the Romans, who, like the Scotch, kept +everything they could lay their hands on; and then came +Constantine the Great, whose mother, some people say, lived in +East Anglia, who enlarged and beautified the city, built the +Hippodrome (one of the wonders of the place), and would have made +it the capital of his enormous empire. No one can blame the +Emperor for preferring Constantinople to Rome.</p> +<p>The city soon became worthy to be the seat of empire. It +commanded from its seven hills the opposite shores of Asia and +Europe. The climate was healthy, the soil fertile, and the +harbour capacious and secure. The Bosphorus and the +Hellespont were its two gates, which could always be shut against +a hostile fleet. A hundred years after its foundation, a +writer, quoted by Gibbon, describes it as possessing a school of +learning, a circus, two theatres, eight public and a hundred and +fifty-three private baths, fifty-two porticos, five granaries, +eight aqueducts, four spacious halls for the meetings <a +name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>of the senate +and courts of justice, fourteen churches, fourteen palaces, and +four thousand three hundred private houses, which from their size +and beauty deserved to be distinguished from the multitude of +plebeian buildings. Successive wars and invasions impaired +the wealth and the magnificence of the city. Of the time of +Constantine little remains but the ruins of the Hippodrome. +The Christian Church of St. Sophia, which he erected to the +Eternal Wisdom, and from the pulpit of which Gregory of Nazianzen +and Chrysostom the golden-mouthed thundered, was burnt in the +reign of Justinian, and his Church of St. Sophia is now a Turkish +mosque. The city was the seat and centre of the +controversies originated in Alexandria as to the nature of the +Trinity, and its rival factions, the Greens and the Blues, were +ever ready to engage in bloody and disastrous conflict. As +a rule, a man’s zeal is according to his ignorance, and at +Constantinople the meanest mechanics spent most of their time in +discussing mysteries of which the acutest intellects can never +even form an adequate idea, and which no human creed can properly +define and express. The Crusaders, who knew little of these +matters, seem to have been quite awestruck when they made their +way to Constantinople. ‘That such a city could be in +the world,’ writes one of the old chroniclers, ‘they +had never conceived, and they were never weary of staring at the +high walls and towers with which it was entirely compassed; the +rich palaces and lofty churches, of which there were so many that +no one could have believed it if he had not seen with his own +eyes that city—the queen of all cities.’</p> +<p>There are few places naturally so picturesque—no city <a +name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>where the +suburbs are so charming. One never wearies of Scutari, +Gallipoli, washed by the splendid waters of the Sea of Marmora, +the Bosphorus, or those of that magnificent harbour, the Golden +Horn, which extends eight miles, and affords an anchorage for a +fleet of twelve hundred vessels. Indeed, whether viewed +from sea or land, or from such a wonderful standpoint as the +marble tower of the Seraskierat, Constantinople on its seven +hills, divided as it were between Europe and Asia, presents a +marvellous display of scenic beauty. You gaze on stately +white palaces, surrounded by domes, towers, cupolas, standing +amidst tier above tier of many-coloured dwellings, surrounded on +all sides by graceful masses of dark cypresses and sombre +pines. High above all rises the grand marble mosque of St. +Sophia, resplendent with mosaics, and sending up heavenwards its +lofty minarets, whence five times a day the cry of the muezzin +calls the world to prayer. As you look and admire, you +feel, with the poet,</p> +<blockquote><p>‘That every prospect pleases,<br /> + And only man is vile’—</p> +</blockquote> +<p>that is, ever since the Turk has been there. And thus it +appears that Constantinople has been, socially and politically, a +centre of abominations. It was in 1453 that Mahomet II. +took it as his own, and it is there that the unspeakable Turk has +ever since remained, and mainly in consequence of English +diplomacy and the prodigal expenditure of English treasure and +blood. The climax was reached in the days of Lord Stratford +de Redcliffe—the Great Elchi, as he was termed. He +insisted on reforms, and the Sultan granted them. He +insisted that all religions should be equal in the eye of the +law, and the precious boon was at once declared. +<a href="images/p57b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"A busy street in Constantinople. (From a photograph)" +title= +"A busy street in Constantinople. (From a photograph)" +src="images/p57s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>Under +the pressure of the Great Elchi, the Sultan issued a +proclamation, stating his desire of renewing and enlarging the +numerous improvements suggested in his institutions, with a view +of making them worthy of the place which his empire held among +civilized nations. He was anxious, he said, to promote the +happiness of his people, who in his sight were all equal and +equally dear. ‘Every distinction or designation +tending to make any class of subjects of my empire inferior to +any other class on account of their religion, language, or race +shall be for ever effaced.’ No one was to be hindered +in future on account of his religious creed; no one was to be +compelled to change his religion. Such was the spirit of +the famous <i>hatti Humayun</i> of 1856. Then came the +Treaty of Paris, to destroy the influence of England in the +East. The French cared nothing for Turkish reform, and have +cared nothing ever since. Bulgarian atrocities, murder and +massacre in Cyprus, murder and massacre on a larger scale in +Armenia or wherever Armenians are gathered together—of +these things the gay world of Paris takes little heed, except +when an occasion offers to sneer at John Bull. What cares +La Belle France, so long as it has its boulevards and theatres, +for the deadly sufferings of any nationality? When did it +ever fight for men and women dying by the thousand—ay, tens +of thousands, under the despotic sway of a Sultan Abdul +Hamid? France does not fight; its aim is to sneer at others +and to glorify itself, to make better people as heartless, as +cynical, as frivolous as itself. And are we much +better—we, whose people, and nobles, and courtiers, and +statesmen, and princes, have just done throwing themselves under +the feet of +<a href="images/p59b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"A Mosque on the Bosphorus. (From a photograph by Frith and Co., +Reigate)" +title= +"A Mosque on the Bosphorus. (From a photograph by Frith and Co., +Reigate)" +src="images/p59s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 60</span>the +Czar? Yes, but John Bull can act when he has a +mind—that is, when he has his inferiors to deal with. +It was beautiful when we brought Greece on her knees over the Don +Pacifico affair! How bitterly we made China pay for her +attack on the <i>Arrow</i>! How we settled the would-be +Sultan of Zanzibar! How we have smitten the Dervishes hip +and thigh! When I was in Ceylon, I had an interesting +interview with Arabi Pasha. I left him hoping, and that is +what we all do as regards Turkish affairs—hoping for what +never comes.</p> +<p>In the Dardanelles we make our first acquaintance with the +Turk. He arrives in a small steamer, with a crew of men +wearing the red fez, and at the stern of his boat floats the red +flag of Turkey, bearing the crescent. He gives us +permission to pursue our way past the forts on either side at the +mouth and along the Dardanelles, at the entrance to which point +are lying off on our right the far-famed plains of windy +Troy. I see also a couple of ironclads, but of what +nationality I cannot exactly make out. We are soon out of +the Dardanelles, and at Gallipoli, the last town on the European +side, and we enter the Sea of Marmora. In current language, +Constantinople includes Stamboul, Galata, and its suburbs, which +stretch up both sides of the Bosphorus. Galata, the +mercantile and shipping quarter, occupies the point and slopes at +the right-hand side of the Golden Horn.</p> +<p>Constantinople looks best at a distance. It is true here +that distance lends enchantment to the view. Outside it +glitters with magnificence. Inside it is foul and beastly, +with pavements detestable to walk along or drive, with ruins at +every corner, and with refuse +<a href="images/p61b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Quay, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle and +Young)" +title= +"The Quay, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle and +Young)" +src="images/p61s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>lying +to fester in the blazing sun all day long—certainly a +remarkable illustration of what Lord Palmerston affirmed, that +dirt was only matter in the wrong place. If you drive you +are choked with dust, and the streets are by no means broad +enough for the constant business and bustle. Enter the +mosques, and you are astonished at their grandeur and the air of +desolation and neglect all round. On the waters you miss +the gay caique, now superseded by the steam-ferries, ever +vomiting clouds of sulphurous smoke. In the city you see +the tramcar, a very shabby one, doing a roaring trade. Down +by the harbour you see the police, well armed and in small +detachments, carefully guarding the streets. The men, with +the exception of the red fez, mostly wear the European +costume. The women you see in the streets are old and ugly, +and, happily, veiled, so that you see nothing of their ugliness +but the nose and eyes. Some of the little urchins and girls +are very bright-looking, but I fancy they are mostly +Greeks. The Turkish boy of the middle class seemed to me +very heavy, but, however that may be, he develops into a fine +man, with a grand dark face and powerful nose, and looks +especially well when on his Arab steed—small, but active +and strong, as if he were born to drive everyone before +him. Alas! in his little shop he seems very listless and +apathetic, but the man in the street is very pertinacious, and I +have just bought an elegant walking-stick for half a crown, after +being asked four shillings, which I hold to be the cheapest +bargain I have made for some time.</p> +<p>We are quite mistaken in England as to the safety of walking +the streets in Constantinople. I heard of a row last night, +but by day the streets are quite as <a name="page63"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 63</span>secure as they are in London. +One thing that astonishes me is the utter ignorance of the people +of what is going on outside respecting Turkish affairs, and the +action, if any, of the diplomatists. You never hear a word +on the subject. To sell seems to be the only aim of the +Turk. The shops are prodigious. In London their +owners would be a great middle class, and form an enlightened +public opinion. Here they do nothing of the kind, and there +is not a street that has a decent pavement nor a corner that is +not a dunghill. There seems to be no attempt at +improvement. The dogs—very much like Australian +dingoes—bark and bite all day and howl all night. +Confusion and decay seem to reign paramount. Now and then +you come to an open space—as at the old slave-market, the +mosques, and the Hippodrome, where a few trees, chiefly acacias, +manage to live, and then you plunge into Holywell Street as it +existed half a century back, and all is darkness and dirt +again.</p> +<p>Constantinople seems to live chiefly on corn imported from +Roumelia and Bulgaria; but they say they are going to open up +Asia Minor by means of railways, and the wheat-grower there will +then have his chance. There are few liquor-shops, but many +for the sale of lemon-and-water and grapes and melons. In +many a shop I see Sunlight Soap and the biscuits of Huntley and +Palmer and Peek and Frean. The donkeys and horses have an +awful time of it as they go along the narrow streets, with +panniers on each side, which appear to get in everyone’s +way. Then comes a rickety waggon, drawn by two big oxen, +which seem as if they must grind the pedestrian to powder. +Then follows the porter, perspiring and bending under his <a +name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>heavy load, +and the aged crone, more or less veiled, as if she +had—which she has not, unhappily—a glimpse of female +charm to display. Now and then you meet a priest with his +red-and-white turban and long brown robe, and if you make your +way into a mosque—and they are all worth +visiting—there, in a little wooden recess, seated +cross-legged on an Indian mat, you will find a priest or devout +layman by himself, repeating verses of the Koran. The +mosques are grotesque outside, but inspiring from their size +inside.</p> +<p>Constantinople is not the place to come to on a hot November +day, and the commercial port is, I hold, utterly unfit for +shipping. We have a good deal of diarrhoea on board, nor +can you wonder, when you remember that into this one spot flows +all the filth and sewage of Galata. It is worse than +Naples; it is worse than Athens, and that is saying a good +deal. Coleridge’s Cologne, with its numerous +stenches, is nothing to it. If there be any truth in +sanitary science, there must be an awful waste of life in these +parts. Here we hear not a whisper of the Turkish crisis, or +of the driving out of the Turk, ‘bag and baggage,’ as +Lord Stratford de Redcliffe wrote fifty years before Mr. +Gladstone adopted the celebrated phrase. Be that as it may, +Constantinople gives you an idea of a densely-populated +city. It is with real difficulty that you make your way +anywhere. The fat official Turk, who dines in some gorgeous +palace—and the place is full of them—and drives in +his brougham and pair, may have an easy time of it; but the +majority of the inhabitants, in their narrow shops and darkened +houses, must have a bad time of it. I sigh for the wings of +a dove, that I may fly away and be at rest. Under this +pestiferous <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +65</span>atmosphere and bright, blazing sun, it is impossible to +do anything but sleep; but that is not easy in one’s small +cabin, floating on this wide waste of sewage. There seems +nothing to amuse the people. In the course of my +peregrinations I met with but one minstrel, and he was far +away. Next to the mosques, the coolest place I have yet +visited is the new museum, with a +<a href="images/p65b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Galata Bridge, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle +and Young)" +title= +"Galata Bridge, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle +and Young)" +src="images/p65s.jpg" /> +</a>fine collection of Greek and Roman and Egyptian antiquities; +but I am no friend to a hurried visit to a museum, which leaves +the mind rather confused and uninformed. As yet I have made +no attempt to penetrate into the mysteries of the harem. +For one thing, I am rather past that sort of thing. But if +I may judge from what I have seen outside the harem, there can be +but little to tempt one to enter within; and <a +name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>with the poet +I exclaim, ‘Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to +be wise.’</p> +<p>I fancy we are most of us tired of Constantinople. To me +it is a place where a little sight-seeing goes a long way. +Our gallant captain, on the contrary, tells me that he could put +in three months here very well. As it is, there are about +2,000 English here, to say nothing of naturalized Greeks and +Maltese. I suppose Constantinople is not a bad place for a +short residence. The hotels are good, and in some you may +have a bedroom for four francs a day. Provisions are not +dear, but house-rent is very expensive. The population of +the place is dense, at which I wonder, as Constantinople seems to +me the most unhealthy city I have ever seen. The only +nuisances are the guides, who will persist in following you +everywhere, and whose knowledge of English and of the things you +really want to know is very limited. For instance, I passed +two obelisks one day. I asked my guide about them. +‘They come from Egypt,’ was his reply. I could +have told him as much myself.</p> +<p>If you need rest, seek it not in Constantinople, with its +noisy crowds by day and its noisy dogs by night; seek it not in +its narrow streets, where horses and asses and big bullocks, +dragging along the most rickety of waggons, are ever to be seen; +seek it not as you drive along its uneven and disgracefully-paved +streets. The mosques are cool and spacious—there you +may rest; but if there is a service, you are not permitted to +remain unless you are a Mohammedan. One advantage of the +mosques is that there is generally a large open space attached to +them, where people can wash themselves and also hold a +market. People seem to <a name="page67"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 67</span> +<a href="images/p67b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"An old street, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle +and Young)" +title= +"An old street, Constantinople. (From a photograph by Fradelle +and Young)" +src="images/p67s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>do +much as they like, as they talk and smoke and play cards, and +indulge in coffee or lemon-and-water. I have never yet seen +a drunken man or—what is worse—a drunken woman, and +yet an English lady, a clergyman’s wife, told me that she +only went on shore once, and was so shocked that she resolved +never to set foot in the place again. The people were so +degraded; the poor porters were so overburdened; and, then, they +were all such awful idolaters. I presume the lady knows +nothing of parts of London where worse sights are to be seen +every day.</p> +<p>The Bosphorus is beautiful beyond description. It beats +the Rhine, it beats the American Hudson; indeed, it is the +grandest panorama in the world. At its back rise the green +wooded hills, and the front is lined with pleasant villas and +palaces—white or yellow, built in Turkish fashion, with +innumerable windows everywhere. There must be great wealth +in the district to build and support such places. +Everywhere there is a great appearance of religion. Go into +a mosque any hour you will, and you see a priest or layman +sitting in a quiet corner, fenced with a wooden rail, +cross-legged, repeating the Koran. One of the oddest sights +I saw in the grand Mosque of St. Sophia was that of an +old-fashioned London clock. One of my troubles as I +explored the mosque—the floor of which is lined with Indian +matting—was to keep on my Turkish slippers. An +attendant who followed me had to stoop down every minute to put +them on, that I might not reveal the deck-shoes which I wore +inside. A gentleman who had visited the mosque told me that +on one occasion, when he took off a pair of new boots there which +he was wearing, he never saw them again.</p> +<p><a name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>It is +wonderful how cheap provisions are: beef, threepence a pound; +bread, a halfpenny; grapes, a halfpenny; fowls for sevenpence; +and mountains of melons everywhere. There is free +education, and an abundant supply of schools. The labouring +classes are well employed. The English here are chiefly +merchants or agents or engineers. On our way back we pass +that favourite resort of the Turkish holiday-makers—the +Valley of Sweet Waters—and have a good view of the hospital +at Scutari, built by Florence Nightingale—now utilized as +barracks—and of the monuments in front of the cemetery in +memory of the British officers and soldiers who died during the +Crimean War.</p> +<p>It is a relief to us all to get back into the Dardanelles and +sail over the spot where Xerxes built his famous bridge, the +narrow strait across which Leander swam nightly to visit his +lady-love—a feat performed by our great poet Byron at a +later age—and wander in fancy as we again catch sight of +the plains of Troy, the spot where the Greek hero Protesilaus +first struck the Trojan strand, and thus gave occasion to our +Wordsworth to write his immortal poem—a poem that will be +read and admired when all the puny poets of the present age are +dead and forgotten. Out in the Ægean Sea the weather +is almost cool and delightfully refreshing, just like a fine +morning in spring at home. The first isle of any importance +we make is Tenedos, behind which, on the mainland, lies Troas, +visited by the Apostle Paul. To the north lies Besika Bay, +where once the French and English fleets assembled prior to their +passage of the Dardanelles, and where the British fleet, under +Admiral Hornby, lay in 1887–88 during the Russo-Turkish +War. Next we reach the <a name="page70"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 70</span>ancient Lectum, the most westernly +point of Asia, and get a glimpse of the beautiful island of +Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos. Mitylene, on the east coast, +is prettily situated, and does a considerable trade. There +are few remains of the ancient city. The island has 115,000 +inhabitants, mostly Greeks.</p> +<h2><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +71</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">SMYRNA.</p> +<p>I write now from one of the most ancient cities in the +world. There is a wonderful lot of ancient history in these +parts. The mind quite staggers under the ever-accumulating +load of facts and figures and legends. The Æolians, +who founded on this site the first Greek city, claimed it as the +birthplace of Homer. It was there that his poetry +flourished; then, under the successors of Alexander, it became +celebrated for its schools of science and medicine. +Christianity early made its way into Smyrna, which has enjoyed +the reputation of being one of the Seven Churches of Asia alluded +to in Revelation. It was there that Polycarp suffered +martyrdom, and it is there they still show you, or profess to +show you, his tomb. Defended by the Knights of Rhodes, +Smyrna fell when Timur, the terrible Mogul, appeared before it +and put all that breathed to the sword. As it was, I felt +satisfied and charmed with modern Smyrna, and did not climb the +hill behind on which stands the ruins of a castle, and where +brigands still lie in wait for the unwary traveller. Nor +did I take the train to Ephesus, a run of nearly two hours, to +wander under the hot sun and amidst the <a +name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>rough winds +to see what remains, amidst bushes and rocks and cornfields, of +ancient Ephesus—notwithstanding the fact that there +Christian synods have been held, and that in a cave adjoining +slept those marvellous Seven Sleepers; that there stood the +temple of the goddess Diana, whose worshippers the great Apostle +of the Gentiles woke up to cry excitedly for the craft by which +they lived. It is a scene of desolation, which certainly +does not repay the ordinary tourist the trouble of a visit.</p> +<p>But I revelled in Smyrna—one of the brightest, cleanest, +and most prosperous cities under Turkish sway. Its white +houses, chiefly hotels and restaurants and theatres, line the +bay, with dense shipping in the forefront, while the mountains +behind, up the slopes of which modern Smyrna is gradually +planting herself, act as guard and shelter. At the time of +my visit there stretched across the bay quite an imposing display +of ironclads of all nations—American, English, Italian, +French—and it made me shudder to think of them bombarding +this scene of life and gaiety and spreading terror amongst its +hard-working people. A tramway runs along the whole front +of the city for about a couple of miles, and, as you stand +thinking of the wonders of modern civilization, you hear a bell +tinkle, and see half a dozen camels laden with sacks of grain +striding past, generally led by a man on a donkey. +Sometimes the donkey had no rider, and yet the patient camel +followed all the same. It was intensely amusing: the +contrast between the little donkey leading and the big camel +behind. It set me thinking of the many parallel passages in +modern history—of parties, Churches, States, led by +donkeys. Smyrna has <a name="page73"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 73</span>an enormous bazaar, into which it is +easier to find one’s way than to get out. It has fine +mosques and handsome Greek churches. It shelters the ships +and people of all nations, but my chief delight was to watch the +string of camels as they ever came and went. Even in the +narrow passages of the bazaar there were the camels, and it was +all you could do to get out of the way of these grand animals, +for such they were.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p73b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Gate of Persecution, near Ephesus. (From a photograph by +Fradelle and Young)" +title= +"The Gate of Persecution, near Ephesus. (From a photograph by +Fradelle and Young)" +src="images/p73s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>One place that I visited much interested me. It was the +Sailors’ Rest on the quay, a fine room with a library and +reading-room, where the sailors come and go, and where they are +supplied with refreshments of a non-intoxicating character, +carried on in connection with the Greek Evangelical Alliance, +founded in Smyrna in 1883. Depression in business, and +consequent <a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +74</span>poverty and other causes, such as the declining number +of British merchants who come to Smyrna, ousted, I presume, by +more enterprising rivals, and troubles in the interior, have +hindered the work, which, however, is successfully carried +on. The average attendance last year was: Sunday morning +service, 83; afternoon, 59; Tuesday prayer-meeting, 41; Gospel +service at the Rest, 50. At the Sunday-school the average +attendance has been about 60. Owing to the shifting +population of Smyrna, many of the church members have become +scattered in many lands. The bitterest enemies of the work +are the members of the Orthodox Greek Church, who have no +sympathy with an Evangelical Alliance of any kind, and care not a +rap for the union of the Churches. As an illustration, take +the following: ‘In 1895 it was expected that the official +permit for the building of a chapel on a site assigned by +Government would be granted to the Evangelicals. In fact, +in the middle of January permission was granted for the opening +of the school, but the local authorities, desiring to avoid any +possible outbreak on the part of ‘the Orthodox,’ +tried to bring about a friendly compromise. It was all in +vain, the Orthodox declaring that they would listen to no terms +unless the Evangelicals were entirely thrust out from the central +quarter of the town, and that they would never allow the chapel +to be built or the site prepared for it. Thus foiled, the +Evangelicals opened their school, but ‘the Orthodox’ +attacked the building with stones, defacing it almost entirely, +and quite destroying all the furniture within. The result +was that the Evangelicals had to commence their labours anew +elsewhere. After two months’ labour the ire of the <a +name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>Orthodox was +again aroused; they drove out the workmen, pulled down part of +the walls, and finally remained masters of the situation. +It is true that fifteen of the Orthodox were imprisoned, but the +Evangelicals were advised to leave the situation also, and to +remove to some other site more acceptable to their +opponents. This advice the Evangelicals refused to accept, +and, after a long delay, by the personal efforts and goodwill of +the new Turkish Governor the building was restored. +Orthodoxy seemed to be a sad stumbling-block in the way of good +work everywhere. The Sailors’ Rest at Smyrna may be +much aided by British Christians, both by presents of books or by +pecuniary contributions. During the last year it seems that +229 visits have been paid to ships, 64 bags of books sent out, 20 +pledges taken. I fear there is a good deal of drunkenness +in Smyrna. Seven thousand six hundred visits have been made +in the year by sailors to the Rest, 797 have attended the +meetings, 676 Bibles, Testaments, and portions have been given +away, and many were the letters sent home by sailors from the +Rest. It seems to me that it might be kept open a little +later at night with advantage, as I find it is the fashion to +keep many of the drinking-shops open all night. The work +among the Greeks has been reviving, and it is regarded as +hopeful. The meetings are well attended, and especially so +the Wednesday evening meeting in the Corner Room at the +Rest. This meeting is described as the fishing-net of the +Greek work, as many of those who became regular attendants at the +other services held in the American Chapel began at the +Rest. At Smyrna our American fellow-passengers hear the +result of the Presidential <a name="page76"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 76</span>contest in America, and greatly +rejoice. Their country is saved—at any rate, this +time. Local lines of steamers run from Smyrna to Messina +and Beirut, touching at all the important coast towns and at +several of the islands, at which we have a peep, such as Cos, the +birthplace of Hippocrates; Halicarnassus, where Herodotus was +born, and where stood the famous mausoleum, one of the wonders of +the world; and Rhodes, far-famed. But we may not tarry even +in order to gratify such a laudable curiosity; no, not even at +Cyprus, which has prospered so much under English rule. It +is enough for us to have explored Smyrna, a city which in every +way, as regards cleanliness in the streets and the absence of +abominable smells, is a great improvement on +Constantinople. It has a population of nearly half a +million, of which less than one-fourth is Moslem, and more than +half Greek. There are large Armenian and Jewish colonies, +that of the Jews, of course, being the most squalid, unhealthy +and debased. The town is governed by a municipality. +Europeans are under the jurisdiction of their consuls. Its +gas lights beamed on us brilliantly as we steamed out in the dark +into the open sea. The one nuisance of Smyrna are the boys, +who go to learn English at the schools taught by the +missionaries, and these persistently pester you to be taken on as +guides. The professional guides are nuisance enough, but +these boys are infinitely worse.</p> +<h2><a name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +77</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.</p> +<p>You see nothing of Jerusalem till you get inside the city, and +to enjoy a visit requires a greater enthusiasm than any to which +I can lay claim. We were safely landed at Jaffa, which by +this time ought to have a more decent landing-place; thence, +after a glance at the house where Simon the Tanner carried on +business, I made my way—along tortuous roads, more or less +blocked with stones and rubbish, and more or less exposed to a +burning sun—to the station, whence we were to start for +Jerusalem, a hot ride of nearly four hours in railway-carriages +of very second-rate quality. The land about Jaffa is +fertile and well cultivated; fig-trees and olive-trees and +orange-groves are abundant, and at Jaffa the chief business +seemed to be packing them in boxes for export. At one +particular spot our conductor told us that it was there that +Samson set the cornfields of the Philistines on fire. +Certainly the ground seemed dry and baked up enough. Then +Arithmea was reached. On our way we got our first sight of +a native village, built of mud huts, into which it seemed +difficult to find an entrance. A Kaffir village is +infinitely to be preferred. The scene of desolation <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>was +complete. On the neighbouring rocks nothing was to be seen +but flocks of goats. A little fairer scene opened on us as +we passed the neat German colony that has settled down here, +almost under the shadow of the walls of Jerusalem. Then the +terminus is gained, and we are whirled in a cloud of dust, in +rickety carriages, driven by their hoarsely-shouting drivers at +full gallop, all of us white as millers, being clothed with +dust. I wash at Howard’s Hotel, swallow a cup of tea, +and, as we do not dine till six, make my way into Jerusalem by +the Jaffa Gate. A little of Jerusalem goes a long +way. It is dark and stifling, swarming with people and +camels and asses, and noisy beyond description. A sort of +Rag Fair, only with a few touches of the East, such as a veiled +woman, or a stately Turk in turban and flowing robes, or a +black-coated, black-bearded Greek priest, or a low row of +shopkeepers, sitting patiently in their dark and tiny shops, +thrown in. You must keep moving, or you will be run over by +a donkey or a camel, for, as the country round Jerusalem grows +nothing, the necessaries of life have all to be brought from a +distance. My respected countrymen and countrywomen are in a +state of gush all the while, not to be wondered at when you think +of the Jerusalem of David, and Solomon, and Jesus Christ. +As it is in reality, I own I see very little to gush about. +I reach the Via Dolorosa—there is no trace of Christ there; +I pass the Church of the Sepulchre and the mosque which marks the +site where Solomon built his Temple. I think of the royal +Psalmist who here poured forth the wailings of his heart in +language which has formed the penitential chant of all the +ages. But if I would see the Christ I must get out of this +<a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>city, all +crammed with lies and living upon lies. I muse by myself in +the Garden of Gethsemane; I climb the Mount of Olives. It +is outside the city, away from +<a href="images/p79b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Jerusalem: via Dolorosa and Pontius Pilate’s House" +title= +"Jerusalem: via Dolorosa and Pontius Pilate’s House" +src="images/p79s.jpg" /> +</a>its old and new churches, that I see the living Christ and +Calvary, and feel how true it is that</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Each soul redeemed from sin and death<br /> + Must know its Calvary.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>I have +had enough of Jerusalem. My fellow-travellers leave me to +go to Jericho. I have no wish to be sent to Jericho, and +prefer to remain under the grateful shelter of my hotel, just +outside the Jaffa Gate. What strikes me most is the +prosperity of the place. It is growing fast, in spite of +Turkish rule. The people are robbed by the tax-collectors; +nevertheless, the place gains, and the population outside the +city walls is quite as great as that within. One reason, of +course, is that wealthy Christians in England and America spend +large sums of money in keeping up proselytizing establishments +here, and in erecting fine buildings for the same end. Of +course we have a Bishop here, but he is High Church, and seems, +from all I hear, more inclined to bridge over the gulf between +his Church and the Greek than to promote general and +undenominational Christian work. The number of poor Jews is +enormous. They come here from all parts of the world to die +in the Sacred City, and have many charities established on their +behalf. The Britisher has this advantage—that he pays +no taxes. The Jew is not permitted to hold a bit of land +unless he has been a resident here five years. The Turk +holds Jerusalem to be a sacred city only second to Mecca. +No wonder, then, that the nations have fought bitterly for the +possession of its so-called sacred shrines; no wonder that +Christians from all parts of the world hasten to Jerusalem, and +that you meet in the streets and shops and hotels such a mixture +of men and women—brought by excursion-parties from +London—as, perhaps, you have never seen before, and, +perchance, may wish never to see again. I suppose it has +ever been so. Those old Crusaders must have been rather a +mixed lot. As it is, <a name="page81"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 81</span> +<a href="images/p81b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"View from St. Stephen’s Gate, with Russian Church and +Garden of Gethsemane" +title= +"View from St. Stephen’s Gate, with Russian Church and +Garden of Gethsemane" +src="images/p81s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>the +Russian Church seems most in evidence. It has spent, +apparently, a great deal of money in building purposes. Its +new church, half-way up the Mount of Olives, is one of the finest +buildings to be seen outside the walls. The Russian is +wily; he knows what he is about—at any rate, better than +many of his rivals in the race for empire.</p> +<p>I think most of my party are getting tired of +Jerusalem—even the clergy, of whom we have many. +Exertion of any kind is painful on these dusty highways and under +this blazing sun. There has been no rain for six months, +and the Jews in the synagogue are praying for it daily, and yet +it seems as far off as ever. One thing that is really +enjoyable is the cool splendour of these cloudless skies by +night. I have seen the moon rise in many lands, but +never—no, not even under the Southern Cross—a moon so +full, so fair, so bright, as that of Judæa, as it throws +its silvery light over old walls and peasants’ huts, on +hill and dale—I may not say ancient ruins, for all is new +outside Jerusalem, and as regards most of the city a similar +remark may be made. For Saracen and Roman have devastated +and destroyed entirely the real Jerusalem, which is now only +being disinterred by the labours of the agents of the Palestine +Exploration Fund, of whom Dr. Bliss is the chief.</p> +<p>The Jews preponderate everywhere, apparently poor and +depressed. The real Turk, sleek and well robed, is an +imposing figure, but the dragomans—chiefly Greeks, or of +the Greek Church—are active and intelligent, and very ready +to use their English, of which, apparently, they have but an +imperfect knowledge. The Jews speak the common dialect of +the country, but are <a name="page83"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 83</span>taught Hebrew in the many schools +established for their benefit. The food displayed in their +cook-shops is, however, by no means tempting, and nowhere, unless +it be at such an international hotel as that of Chevalier Howard, +is the commissariat department very strong. But we have +clean, cool, delightful bedrooms. And Mr. Chevalier himself +is a remarkably intelligent and active man, and offers the +traveller facilities for excursions such as he can find nowhere +else. When one thinks of Palestine and the place it fills +in the world’s history, it is hard to realize what a small +extent of country it contains. Its length is about 200 +miles, and its average breadth 75 miles. On one side is the +Mediterranean Sea, and on the other the desert plain of +Arabia. A mountain range runs through it from north to +south. Its chief rivers are the Jordan, the Litany, the +Abana, and the Pharpar. I fancy it is better to come here +in the spring than in the autumn.</p> +<h2><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +84</span>CHAPTER X.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE HOLY CITY.</p> +<p>The three principal sights in Jerusalem are the Mosque of +Omar, now standing on the site of Solomon’s Temple, the +Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the Muristan, which is the +conglomerate remains of numerous edifices raised on the same spot +in the course of ages, from Charlemagne to Saladin, but named +from the madhouse built there by the Knights of St. John of +Jerusalem. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre should be +visited in the sunniest part of the day, as the interior is +awfully dark. It may be that it is what it assumes to +be. There are people who doubt this, as they do everything; +but here countless pilgrims in all ages have come to pray and +weep, and have kissed every stone and shrine to be seen within +the sacred precincts. I have read somewhere how a young +lady from the country came to town to hear the immortal Siddons, +then in the zenith of her fame. As soon as the performance +began, the young lady began to weep immediately. ‘If +you weep in this way,’ said a gentleman to her, ‘you +will have no tears to shed when the real Siddons +appears.’ The same feeling occurs to you in +Jerusalem. One is never sure that <a +name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>the people +are wailing and weeping at the right place. People seem +there so much taken up with the dead Christ that they are +actually in danger of forgetting the living one, who speaks to us +to-day as when He lifted up His Divine voice in the crowded +streets of Jerusalem or beneath the proud pillars of the Temple +itself.</p> +<p>The question has long been discussed whether the traditional +site on which stands the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the true +one. The matter turns upon the course of the city walls in +the time of Christ. All are agreed that wherever the +sepulchre was, it was without the gate, and not within +Jerusalem. From the Gospels we learn that the tomb was +rock-hewn, and that it was nigh the place of the +Crucifixion. Major Conder’s excavations have almost +conclusively proved that the traditional site was without the +circuit of the city wall, and though the point cannot be +considered as quite settled, there are very strong grounds for +believing that the site was elsewhere. By the common +consent of experts, the true site has been found a short distance +north-east from the Damascus gate of the present city on the +rocky knoll immediately above the Jeremiah Grotto of our Bible +map. Indirectly, the so-called Jeremiah Grotto contributes +some support to the modern identification. It is the spot +where executions by stoning were carried out. The locality +General Gordon brought into notice as the Holy Sepulchre seems to +be quite unfounded. Major Conder points out that the tomb +was no new discovery when the General was in Jerusalem—that +it is probably not a Jewish tomb at all, and may be assigned to +the middle ages.</p> +<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>It is a +wonderful city, this old Jerusalem. It was here Solomon +built his Temple a thousand years before Christ. This +structure was subsequently destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, rebuilt +by Zorobabel, and afterwards by Herod. Then came Titus and +the Romans, who left the city a desolation. Of all its +stateliness—the populous streets, the palaces of the kings, +the fortresses of her warriors—not a ruin remains, except +three tall towers and part of the western wall, which was left +for the defence of the Roman camp. From a Roman point of +view, Titus had well earned the honour of a triumph.</p> +<p>Of course in this connection one falls back on Gibbon: +‘In the midst of a rocky and barren country the walls of +Jerusalem inclosed the two mountains of Sion and Acra within an +oval figure of about three miles. Towards the south the +upper town and the fortress of David were erected on the lofty +ascent of Mount Zion; on the north side the buildings of the +lower town covered the spacious summit of Mount Acra, and a part +of the hill distinguished by the name of Moriah, and levelled by +human industry, was crowned with the stately temple of the Jewish +nation. After the final destruction of the temple by the +arms of Titus and Hadrian a ploughshare was drawn over the +consecrated ground, as a sign of perpetual interdiction. +Sion was deserted, and the vacant space of the lower city was +filled with the public and private edifices which spread +themselves over the adjacent hill of Calvary. The holy +places were polluted with monuments of idolatry; and, either from +design or accident, a chapel was dedicated to Venus on the spot +which had been sanctified by the death and resurrection <a +name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>of +Christ. Almost 300 years after these stupendous events the +profane chapel of Venus was demolished by the order of +Constantine, and the removal of the earth and stone revealed the +Holy Sepulchre to the eyes of mankind. A magnificent church +was erected on that mystic ground by the first Christian emperor; +and the effects of his pious munificence were extended to every +spot which had been consecrated by the footsteps of patriarchs +and prophets and the Son of God.’</p> +<p>Admirably Gibbon puts the case. Nevertheless, from that +praiseworthy zeal on the part of Constantine, innumerable woes +and awful demoralization have ensued. The history of +Jerusalem has been dark and dolorous ever since. The +priests reaped a golden harvest, and found a believing generation +ever ready to accept even the most marvellous of their +statements, the Empress Helena leading the way. The clergy +made the most of these devout pilgrimages, and exhibited their +powers of invention on an enormous scale. The more the +pilgrims demanded, the greater the supply. The clergy fixed +the scene of each memorable event. They exhibited the +instruments which had been used in the passion of Christ: the +nails and the lance that had pierced His hands, His feet, and His +side; the crown of thorns that was planted on His head; the +pillar at which he was scourged; and, above all, they showed the +cross on which He had suffered—dug miraculously out of the +ground! It seems to us impossible that the credulity of +people could ever have been so great; but, alas! there are no +miracles or traditions which devoted men and women are unable to +swallow. Such miracles as seemed necessary found ample +credence.</p> +<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +88</span>‘The custody of the <i>true cross</i>, which on +Easter Tuesday,’ writes Gibbon, ‘was solemnly exposed +to the people, was intrusted to the Bishop of Jerusalem; and he +alone might gratify the curious devotion of the pilgrims by the +gift of small pieces, which they enchased in gold or gems, and +carried away in triumph to their respective countries. But +as this gainful branch of commerce must soon have been +annihilated, it was found convenient to suppose that the +marvellous wood possessed a secret power of vegetation, and that +its substance, though continually diminished, still remained +entire and unimpaired.’ That is enough. It is +unnecessary to carry our investigations any further. The +only relics in which I could believe were the spurs of that grand +old crusader, Godfrey of Bouillon. In that city of +pretended sanctity, with its doubtful hallowed ground, it does +one good to think of Campbell’s vigorous lines, never more +applicable than now:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘To incantations dost thou trust,<br /> +And pompous rites in domes august?<br /> +See, mouldering stone and metal’s rust<br /> + Belie the vaunt<br /> +That man can bless one pile of dust<br /> + With chime or chaunt.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Be that as it may, all steps in Jerusalem are dogged with +doubt. You hear a great deal more than you can +believe. We tread on ruins and know what they are,—so +far we can believe their testimony. Yet the city is full of +surpassing interest. ‘After Rome,’ writes Dr. +Russell Forbes, in his valuable little work, ‘The Holy +City: its Topography, Walls, and Temples,’ ‘there is +no city which appeals to the feelings like Jerusalem; the +sympathy is deeper and stronger than that of Athens, which we +place third on the list. As <a name="page89"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 89</span>the sympathy towards the Eternal City +is derived from profane history, so as it were in opposition, +one’s feelings toward the Holy City owe their origin to +sacred history. These two cities, sacred and profane, stand +out boldly on the world’s surface like the figures in +Titian’s celebrated picture—one appealing to the sun, +the other to the wind. The sacred is more ancient than the +profane, and the wind of controversy has swept equally over both, +while the spade of modern science has in each case confounded the +sceptic and established the truth of the unbroken records of the +past.’ That is putting the case rather +strongly. At any rate, in studying the topography of +Ancient Rome the authorities are many. In Jerusalem they +are few—but the Bible, Josephus and the Talmud. It is +only of late that we got at the real Jerusalem. It was not +till explorations, surveys, and excavations were made that +anything beyond tradition, mostly false, was known of the ancient +city. It is below its modern level that one has to trace +the remains of the real Jerusalem. As Byron wrote of Rome, +so we may say of the Holy City:</p> +<blockquote><p> ‘The Goth, the Christian, +time, war, flood, and fire<br /> + Have dealt upon the seven-hilled city’s +pride.<br /> + She saw her glories star by star expire,<br /> + And up the steep barbarian monarchs ride,<br /> + Where the car climbed the Capitol; far and wide,<br +/> + Temple and tower went down, nor left a site:<br /> + Chaos of ruins! who shall trace the void,<br /> + O’er the dim fragments cast a lunar light,<br +/> +And say, “Here was, or is,” where all is doubly +night?’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It was not till 1868 that the time arrived for cheap +excursions to Jerusalem. The credit of the idea is to be +given to the late Mr. Thomas Cook. In the time of the +Crusades the bands which visited Palestine did so <a +name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>under a +leader. At a later date parties travelled in the form of a +caravan. Before visiting the lands of the Bible Mr. Cook +consulted that eminent traveller and at one time popular author +and lecturer, Mr. James Silk Buckingham, as to the best +route,—and collected information from every available +quarter. Then he made the trip by himself in 1868. On +his return home he advertised a tour in Palestine and the Nile in +the following spring. Before a month had elapsed thirty-two +ladies and gentlemen had taken tickets for the trip to the Nile +and Palestine, and thirty to Palestine only; and now they come by +the hundred at a time, so popular is the trip. From the +year 1868 up to 1891, 1,200 persons had visited Palestine under +Cook’s protection. Many of these travellers held high +social positions, such as their Royal Highnesses the Duke of +Edinburgh, the Duke of Clarence and Avondale, Prince George of +Wales; their Imperial Highnesses the Grand Duke and Duchess +Sergius, the Grand Duke Paul of Russia, the King of Servia, and +other travellers of distinction. It is a part of the +business of the firm much patronized by American tourists and the +clergy of all denominations. Up to the time of the firm +taking up the matter, travellers were at the mercy of savage +chiefs, who made them pay dearly for the permission which they +granted to pass through their districts. These chiefs were +as fickle as they were avaricious, and as dilatory as they were +exacting. All this vexatious delay has vanished. When +you start you are certain of arrival at the day indicated, and of +being able to return in a similar manner. Moreover, the +element of danger has been eliminated. You are safe in +Jerusalem as in London—perhaps safer; for as <a +name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>there is +always danger in the streets of London from hardened criminals +and careless drivers of cabs and omnibuses, and the +ever-increasing multitude of men and women who have taken to the +bicycle—and ‘rush in where angels fear to +tread.’</p> +<p>Finally, after Omar and Saladin, Syria and Palestine were +conquered by Selim, and since then, with the slight advent of the +Crusaders, have formed part of the Turkish Empire. The +inhabitants complain a good deal of the injustice and corruption +of the Turkish tax-gatherers, and I fancy not without reason; but +that the city is prosperous and flourishing now is evident to the +most superficial observer, from the number of new buildings +erected in every direction. I believe it is a fact that the +number of people living outside the city is far greater than the +population within. It is a fashion to build schools and +churches and convents everywhere, Russia in this respect standing +ahead of the rest. I don’t care to go into the +city. What I see there is all fiction, hallowed, if you +like, by the superstition of ages. In the daytime all is +noise and confusion. The trader sits in his little shop in +a narrow street, covered from the sun, and there the people +collect in every variety of costume—some in rags and almost +naked; others, like the cavass of some consulate, in a dark, +showy dress, with a grand sword hanging from his thigh; but the +prevailing fashion seems to be a brown or blue jacket hanging +over a print skirt extending down to the feet. Some are +almost as black as niggers.</p> +<p>Immense as is the traffic of the city and the noise and tumult +by day, the silence by night is equally wonderful. There is +no living soul or body to be seen in the streets by +night—nor a light; not even the bark <a +name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>of a dog is +heard. There is scarce a street in which you can walk +comfortably either inside Jerusalem or outside. There are +stones everywhere to throw you down, and then there is the +dust. That deserves a chapter in itself. It is simply +awful. There is a cartload of it inside me now. It is +white as snow; it fills the air; you can see nothing. As we +got out of the railway-station, and got into carriages to drive +towards the hotel, we could not see an inch of the way on account +of the dust. To make it worse, the drivers all set out at +full speed, and in the race to get in first it seemed to me that +a collision was inevitable; however, happily, no casualty +occurred. A poor unfortunate donkey was run over—that +was all.</p> +<p>As an illustration of what the natives have to suffer under +Turkish rule, let me give the following account of a gossip with +a driver I met with. His father had died and left him a +little property in the fertile plain of Sharon. The man did +all he could to improve it—fenced it with stones, dug it +over and enriched the soil, planted olive-trees and dates, and +then, when the crop was nearly ready, the Turkish taxpayer came +and demanded a third of the estimated value, and got it. In +a fortnight after he was visited by the Bedouins, who took +another third, and in the end the poor man had to give up his +little farm. The Turks are bad, but the lawless Bedouins +who harry the land are infinitely worse. For instance, one +of our party drove down to Jericho by himself. He got out +to walk in one part of the road, and got ahead of his +driver. Immediately he found himself surrounded by a crew +of these ruffians. Happily, he had with him the American +Consul’s cavass, who, seeing the position, came up with his +<a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span> +<a href="images/p93b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"General view of Jerusalem from the Convent of the Sisters of +Zion" +title= +"General view of Jerusalem from the Convent of the Sisters of +Zion" +src="images/p93s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 94</span>loaded +revolver, at the sight of which the gentleman was rescued, as the +rascals fled. There is no taming the Bedouin of the +desert. He only owns the rule of his sheikh. The +Turkish ruler of the province is afraid of him, and actually pays +him a tribute to be allowed to send his yearly offering to +Mecca. No wonder the land is bare of life. It is a +wonder that there is any cultivation at all. The people are +forced to live in villages, remote from one another, and there +they defend themselves against the enemy as best they can. +You see nowhere a farmhouse, a cottage, or country house. +For miles and miles not a human habitation is visible.</p> +<p>As most of us are sitting half asleep in the smoking-room +after our mid-day meal, a wailing sound reaches my ears. I +rush to the window and see a funeral procession. Someone +has died in one of the houses above us, and they are bearing the +dead body into the city for burial. About 100 men and women +follow, wailing as they go, while on each side of the +coffin—a very unsightly structure borne on a rude +bier—walk the black-robed priests, evidently of the Greek +Church. The sight is not particularly imposing as the +procession makes its way, while the world goes on selling and +buying much as usual. I pity the poor mourners and the +priests as they move slowly along. I know not, but perhaps +the presence of so many priests may indicate that the deceased +was a person of some consequence in his community.</p> +<p>I resume my writing, and then a native comes in to rub off the +white dust which has come in through the open window. It is +impossible to keep out the fine white dust, and all day the flies +are equally troublesome. <a name="page95"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 95</span>I hear of some of the ladies being +bitten by the mosquitoes, but the latter, happily, leave me +alone. The courteous manners of the dragomans who fill the +hall of the hotel are amusing. All of them seem much +interested as to my health, and anxiously inquire how I +slept. As I write, Mr. Howard’s nephew is arranging +the papers in the smoking-room; a native enters, who kisses the +back of his hand with effusion—a +<a href="images/p95b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Church of the Holy Sepulchre" +title= +"The Church of the Holy Sepulchre" +src="images/p95s.jpg" /> +</a>pledge, I learn, of faithful service. As to the people +in general, they seem to be mere drudges and to have little idea +of amusement; amusement in the Holy City is not tolerated. +Now and then you see in the narrow, darkened streets a few +sitting round a hookah, enjoying a quiet smoke, but the people, +dressed out in all the colours of the rainbow, plod up and down +wearily in a never-ending stream, in pursuance of their daily <a +name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>tasks. +A good deal of building is going on outside the city walls. +There is no scaffolding, no hodman with bricks and mortar; the +solid stone walls seem to grow up in the most hopeless +confusion. Of course you see no decent carriages. +Around the door of the hotel there is a daily collection of +donkeys and horses and carriages, the last all white with dust +and of the most rickety character. One would think they +would fall to pieces over the bad roads, almost as bad as those +of Constantinople; but I hear of no accident, though it seems as +you watch the flying crowd that one may occur at any moment.</p> +<p>As I chat with my dragoman, I ask him if he is married. +His reply is that he cannot afford it; it would cost him +£60 to get a wife. Perhaps it were as well that the +cost of a wife in England were as much; we might have fewer +marriages of the kind that tend to misery and want. The +servants in the hotel seemed remarkably honest. There was a +lock to my door, but I could not get it to act, so my room +remained unlocked, and I missed nothing, even when one morning I +left my purse on the table, containing all my money, when I went +to breakfast. A breakfast consists of hot rolls, good +coffee, and delicious honey. At lunch the first course +consists of olives, radishes, lemons and vegetables, which are +supposed to create an appetite. At dinner we have a +wonderful lot of stewed flesh, and vegetables are often served up +as a separate course. In the evening the hall is lighted up +with many lamps, and the dealers come and turn it into a +bazaar. They are not above making a considerable +reduction. But really there is very little manufactured in +Jerusalem—the Sacred City. Oh, how I loathe the term +as I <a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>tread +the church of the reputed Holy Sepulchre—its stones +slippery with the tread of millions of pilgrims in all ages, its +sacred shrines worn away by the kisses of the faithful. As +I sit outside, a cripple comes to a pillar of the door, on which +a cross has been rudely carved. He kisses that cross and +stands there praying. Those poor devotees—how they +kiss, and kneel, and crawl, and pray!</p> +<p>The most interesting man I have seen is the Rev. Ben +Oliel. Born in Morocco in 1826, a man wonderfully active +for his years, you would not take him to be more than sixty at +the best. At Tangiers he attended the Rabbinical schools, +learning Spanish at home, Arabic out of doors, and Hebrew and +Chaldee at school. He speaks English with great readiness +and fluency. When eighteen years of age he read the New +Testament for the first time, but his father took it away from +him—however, not before a spirit of inquiry was raised in +his mind. In 1847, while visiting at Gibraltar, he became +acquainted with a Christian friend, who gave him the +‘Pilgrim’s Progress’ and ‘Keith on +Prophecy’ to read. From them he learnt that Jesus was +the Messiah and the Saviour of men. He then resolved to +come to England to prepare to preach the Gospel to the +Jews. The committee of the Society for the Promotion of +Christianity among the Jews accepted his services, and sent him +to labour in Gibraltar and North Africa. During a visit to +England in 1850 he translated the Gospel of St. Luke into +Hebrew-Spanish, and also a number of tracts into Hebrew and +Spanish. In 1852 he was ordained to the ministry in Orange +Street Chapel, London, by twelve ministers representing +Presbyterian, Congregational, <a name="page98"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 98</span>Baptist, and Lutheran Churches. +Shortly after he was recognised by the Presbytery of Edinburgh as +a minister, and ordained a missionary of that church, and was +sent to Thessalonica and Smyrna, where he established +missions. Later on his old society—the +British—sent him to Algiers, when he succeeded in inducing +his relatives to become Christians, who are now usefully employed +in Christian work. Mr. Ben Oliel has been twice +married—first to a daughter of Rev. B. Lewis, a Baptist +minister of London, and then, after a widowerhood of some years, +to a sister of Mr. Seeley, Vicar of Clacton-on-Sea, and a cousin +of Professor Seeley, author of ‘Ecce Homo.’</p> +<p>We next find him in Spain. In Cadiz he laboured with +much success, sometimes having a congregation of 1,000 +hearers. He opened schools for both sexes, where he had as +many as 360 children. His success provoked the animosity +and opposition of the Romish priests, who started a newspaper to +put him down. Thence, for reasons perfectly satisfactory, +he returned to his old scene of labour in Algeria, and commenced +a very successful mission at Oran. From Oran he was sent to +Rome to labour among the Jews, and then the question was put to +him—would he go to Jerusalem? To this question there +could be only one, and that an affirmative, reply. In the +ancient city he is certainly the right man in the right +place. In the first place, he can converse in Hebrew with +learned Jews and Rabbis, with whom the city is full. It is +a curious fact that Hebrew is fast becoming a living tongue in +Jerusalem, as is evident from the fact that the only newspapers +now published in Palestine are two weeklies in Jerusalem, both in +the Hebrew tongue. Another <a name="page99"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 99</span>advantage Mr. Ben Oliel possesses is +that he can talk to the Sephardim Spanish Jews in their own +dialect; and they, it seems, are the most ancient in the city and +the most easy of access; and then, again, as an +undenominationalist, he has provided an upper room, where he +holds an English service on a Sunday, sometimes attended by as +many as 100 English-speaking travellers from all parts of the +world. His work is now entirely supported by friends, +especially Americans, who sympathize in his aim. He has no +great society at his back; he fights on his own behalf, in faith +that the supplies when needed will come. In his work he is +greatly aided by his devoted wife and daughter, who have +established schools—one of them a sewing-class of girls, to +which I paid a visit.</p> +<p>In his schools Mr. Oliel met with great opposition from the +Jewish Rabbis. They held a conference on the subject. +The outcome of their conference was seen the following +Saturday. Great and solemn warning was preached in every +synagogue at morning prayer to the Jews not to continue going to +the Christians, and earnest pleading with them to put an end to +this sin in Israel. On the doors of all synagogues, inside +and outside town, were placards, some of which were handed to +individuals. Here is a translation of one:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Inasmuch as we hear that two schools of the +English have been opened, one inside and the other outside the +town, and women, sons and daughters of the Israelite people are +going to them, and according to the information that reaches us +they are stumbling in the sin of idolatry, for above all they are +required to <a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +100</span>believe in their religion, as their conditions, as it +is heard; we heard and our bowels trembled, how can it be that +because of straits we should forsake our faith, God forbid, and +believe in the sin of idolatry, and the end will be that in a +short time they will abandon the Holy Law and turn to the law of +the Protestants, God forbid, whose whole interest is to tempt and +push precious souls of Israel and bring them to their faith, +thereupon they are told in the name of the <i>First in Zion</i>, +and in the name of the exalted Rabbis, even <i>all the fathers of +the House of Judges</i>, <i>the righteous</i>, and in the name of +all the Rabbis, that from this day forward, after we have given +them to understand the heavy forbidden thing they are +doing—certain that Israel are holy—they should +withdraw and not go to those places, neither women nor young men, +nor girls or little children at all, and let them trust in the +Blessed be His Name, who feeds and nourishes all, and to whom is +the power and the greatness, and let them not think for a moment +of benefit, whose end is bitter like poison of losing their +Judaism, God forbid; and no benefit will they derive from those +cents, and keep this exhortation before their eyes continually +all the days; and in eight days from to-day those schools will be +found empty, that no Jew’s foot shall tread in them any +more, which we shall hear and rejoice, and if, which God forbid, +that time arriving and any still continue to go, let them know +assuredly that as they sought to separate themselves from the +community of the people of Israel, we also therefore will +endeavour with all our strength to separate from them. If +sons are born to them, there will be no one to circumcise them, +if any get married, there will be no one to give the nuptial +blessings. If <a name="page101"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 101</span>any die, they will not be buried +with the Jews. The women will not be married to Jews. +To young men no Jewesses will be given. They will be a +separate people. We trust that from this day forward they +will withdraw from the said schools, and despise them as unclean, +and will not go near their doors; and will have trust in God, +exalted be His Name, preferring to starve to death as Jews, and +not arrive to this measure [of punishment]. And let them +not suppose that we shall be silent, but we shall persecute them +to the bitter end as far as our hands can reach.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">‘Blessing to those who +obey.’<br /> +Seal of the Chief Rabbi.</p> +<p>Seal of the Judges.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Considering that the Rabbis have considerable sums of money +sent them from abroad to distribute among the poor every month, +and that many houses are given to the worthy penniless free of +rent for several years, it is no wonder that the parents of the +little ones were afraid to disobey their tyrannic rulers, and +kept their children away from the school.</p> +<p>I find the Y.M.C.A. have a branch here, founded by Mr. Hind +Smith in 1890, and are doing useful work, and just outside the +Jaffa Gate is a depot for the sale of Bibles. But I have +been somewhat astonished at the bitter, exclusive spirit +displayed in some quarters where I might have hoped for better +things. It is difficult for a Jew to make a profession of +Christianity. If he does so, he has to leave the place at +once. The strong caste spirit among the Jews is also very +great. The high caste will not associate with the men of a +lower caste. But where people dare not go to the <a +name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>recognised +agencies for Jewish conversion, many come to Mr. Oliel for a +chat, and Turks as well. Such missionary work as he does +seems to be of the right stamp and worthy of British +support. An increasing interest is being taken in +Jerusalem, though, alas! I cannot say with the Psalmist, +‘Thy servants take pleasure in her stones and favour the +dust thereof.’ They are my stumbling-block by night +and day.</p> +<h2><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +103</span>CHAPTER XI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">BETHLEHEM.</p> +<p>The one spot in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem which one must +visit is Bethlehem, the birthplace of the Christ, the music of +whose voice and the lustre of whose life have brightened and +bettered all the ages, dark and dreary as many of them have been, +ever since. It is difficult to visit such a place alone; it +is impossible to visit it in company with a garrulous and +credulous crowd. I had for companions an esteemed clergyman +from Leeds and an Oxford scholar, a man of infinite learning and +wit. There had been rain overnight, and the dust was not so +much of a nuisance as it generally is, and, besides, we had a +refreshing breeze. We did the whole trip between breakfast +and lunch. Starting in one of the shabby-looking +carriages—the only available vehicle in these parts, which +one expects to break down every minute—drawn by a couple of +half-starved steeds, it rattled along over the stones at a speed +for which one was scarcely prepared. On my way I learned a +fact that I may not have mentioned before—viz., that at +Constantinople the Sultan had given special orders for the +comfort of the excursionists arriving in the <i>Midnight Sun</i> +by placing a guard of soldiers around <a name="page104"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 104</span>the ship to keep off the crowd, and +by giving special orders that the party were to be everywhere +received with courtesy and respect. As regards myself, +seeing that not very long since the Sultan had ordered one of my +books to be burnt, I must own that I felt his conduct in this +matter to redound very much to his credit.</p> +<p>We leave our hotel by the road running to the right from +outside the Jaffa Gate, and admire very much the long range of +neat almshouses built for the poor Jews by the late Sir Moses +Montefiore, leaving the Hill of Evil Counsel to the left, and the +pretty, red-roofed, clean-looking village inhabited by the German +Templars’ community to the right. Then the road +passes by the Valley of Rephaim on the right, where David fought +twice with the Philistines and conquered them, the signal for the +battle the second time being given by a ‘going in the tops +of the mulberry-trees,’ which betokened the presence of the +Lord. A round stone on the left denotes the well in which, +when quenching their thirst, the Wise Men from the East beheld +once more reflected in its waters, to their ‘exceeding +great joy,’ the star which led them in search of the +new-born King of the Jews. On our left is the convent of +Mar Elias, now occupied by a brotherhood belonging to the Greek +Church. Far off on our right is Giloh, white and glittering +in the sun, where dwelt Ahithophel, the Gilonite, David’s +counsellor. It is now a village inhabited exclusively by +Christians.</p> +<p>Again, on our right, we come to Rachel’s Tomb, at a +point where the great highroad to Hebron is left for the road to +Bethlehem. There is no dispute as to the identity of +Rachel’s tomb; at any rate, for ages the <a +name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>same legend +has been connected with the spot. For hundreds of years the +site was marked by a pyramid of twelve stones, placed there for +the twelve tribes of Israel. The present monument, built by +the Moslems, is white—as every building is in this part of +the world—an oblong erection, with a small dome on the +top. One of my learned friends points to the whiteness of +<a href="images/p105b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Bethlehem. (From a Photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +title= +"Bethlehem. (From a Photograph by Fradelle and Young)" +src="images/p105s.jpg" /> +</a>the limestone which lines all the roads, and which is +utilized in all the buildings, whether private or public, as an +illustration of the falsehood of the legend connected with the +home of Our Lady of Loretto, which, according to monkish legend, +flew all the way from Palestine to Italy, where yet it +remains. The stone of that building is red, a significant +proof of the falsehood of the tale. The next point of +interest is David’s Well, <a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span>in commemoration of the incident +recorded in Samuel, when the Philistines being in possession of +the town, and David in a hold in or near Cave Adullam, he said: +‘Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well +of Bethlehem, which is by the gate! And the three mighty +men brake through the host of the Philistines, and drew water out +of the well of Bethlehem, which was by the gate, and took it and +brought it to David; nevertheless, he would not drink thereof, +but poured it out unto the Lord. And he said . . . Is +not this the blood of the men that went in jeopardy of their +lives?’</p> +<p>And now I am in Bethlehem—not a simple country village, +as many imagine, but a densely-populated town, with winding, +narrow ways, where men and women and children, camels, donkeys, +and carriages, seem mixed up in wild disorder. On every +side we are shut in with habitations—stony, bare of +windows, built high up, with here and there a shop, but chiefly +with a simple door on the ground-floor; and then we dash into the +market-place, and apparently it is market-day, and half of the +open space is filled with buyers and sellers in many-coloured +garments of the East; and down on us come the guides and small +pedlars, shrieking, ejaculating, spluttering in broken English, +just as Byron tells us the Assyrian came down like the wolf on +the fold.</p> +<p>We enter the Church of the Nativity, regarded as the very +oldest specimen of Christian architecture; and a very ugly +building it is. In one of the remote quarters I came to an +old stone font, bearing the inscription: ‘For the memory, +repose and forgiveness of sinners, of whom the Lord knows the +name.’ Here, <a name="page107"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 107</span>in 1161, Baldwin was crowned King of +Jerusalem. Look up at the roof as you pass along, of pure +wood and lead, furnished in 1482 by Edward IV. of England and +Philip of Burgundy. The guardianship of the church is +divided among Greeks, Armenians, and Latins. We are +supplied with tapers, and go down in the cave where the Christ +was born. A little further on is the place of the manger in +which He was laid. In another section of the cave, all hewn +out of the solid rock, Joseph is said to have slept when he was +warned by God in a dream to take Mary and her child and fly into +Egypt. Again, we are shown the spot where the children +massacred by King Herod were interred. Fifteen lamps +perpetually illuminate the subterranean Church of the Nativity, +near which is the Altar of the Adoration, which commemorates the +visit of the Magi. Amidst darkness visible we make our way +to the cave in which St. Jerome wrote his great work, the +translation of the Hebrew Bible into the Vulgate or Latin +tongue. It is a dark and dreary spot, and near by we are +shown his tomb. One can scarce credit the story of his +having done such work in such a corner, or believe that there he +lived to reach the ripe age of ninety-two. A year in such a +spot would be enough to kill an ordinary orthodox Christian in +these degenerate days. I make my exit speedily into the +upper air. I have seen enough for one day; no lying legend +can tempt me further. The enormous pile of churches built +up over the sacred sites, and inhabited by priests of rival +Churches, who hate each other like poison, are too much for +me.</p> +<p>Bethlehem is the market-place of the Dead Sea Bedouins, and +also of the numerous small towns and <a name="page108"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 108</span>villages in the vicinity, and has +besides some nourishing manufactures of its own. Its +inhabitants are almost exclusively Christian. The people +are chiefly employed in the production of embroidered dresses, +and in carving in a beautiful way mother-of-pearl. I hear +that they are an intelligent and industrious people, and that +there are plenty of schools for the children. The women are +said to be fair, but I see none such. On our way back we +are shown the Field of the Shepherds, sloping up a neighbouring +hill. It was there the angel of the Lord appeared to them +as they watched their sheep by night. We pass by also the +Pools of Solomon—three reservoirs made by the great King +for supplying the inhabitants of Jerusalem with water. All +the country round is a scene of great activity, as is evident +from the enormous amount of terraces to be seen everywhere +planted with the universal olive-tree. But at this time we +see nothing but stones, with here and there a few black goats +climbing the mountain-sides; all life seems to have withered up +under the scorching sun. The Wells of Solomon contain no +water, the hills no sign of vegetation. They are dry, and +so are we.</p> +<p>On the whole, after my visit to Bethlehem, I quite agree with +an American writer—the Rev. Mr. Tompkins—in his +remarks on the church built by the Empress Helena. While +vast, imposing, and suggestive of past glory, it is a fitting +monument of that kind of Christianity which, let us hope, is +relegated to the past. No instance of an enormous expensive +building could show more clearly the folly of erecting to God +that which has no earthly use. Unless men can see in future +ages that Christianity is for man, and not for <a +name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>God, I +fancy that religion will perish from the earth. To-day one +stands in this edifice, which in point of size is justly +comparable with any church in the world, and wonders what rash +folly ever possessed the Empress to waste so much money. It +is so dreary, so cold, so deserted, so utterly the shell of +Christianity, that Christianity seems a very farce right here +where it began.</p> +<h2><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +110</span>CHAPTER XII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE JEW IN JERUSALEM.</p> +<p>One of the most interesting evenings I spent in Jerusalem was +in listening to a lecture by Dr. Wheeler, of the English Hospital +in the city, who is now seeking to build a hospital for the Jews +there. He is also, I believe, connected with the London +Society which is seeking to bring over the Jew to the knowledge +of the Messiah, a task by no means easy, as the conviction of the +Jew—that the promised Messiah is yet to come—is not +easily to be dispelled. I came over with a converted +Jew—a clergyman in London. His parents, who were +wealthy, lived in Jerusalem. In order to become a Christian +he had to sacrifice all his worldly prospects, and aroused such +bitter enmity on the part of his relatives that, though he had +made the journey for the sake of seeing his dying mother, he +almost despaired of an interview, and had to wait five days +before his object was achieved.</p> +<p>But to return to Dr. Wheeler. He has been at work in +Jerusalem eleven years, and his knowledge of the state of the +Jews is profound. The Jews, he told us, in Palestine may be +roughly divided into four classes: The Ashkenazim, comprising the +fair-haired, sallow <a name="page111"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 111</span>German Jew, the Russian, Polish, +American, etc., who speak Yiddish, and enjoy the protection of +the consuls of the countries to which they belong; the Sephardim, +or Spanish Jews, many of whom still wear the black turban imposed +on them by the mad Caliph Halim; the Gemenites, who have only +recently come to the land—they are dark, and wear their +hair in side-curls; and the Karaites, a sect which sprang up +about the eighth century. These reject the Talmud and deny +the authority of the Oral Law; they are few in number, and have +but one small synagogue; the orthodox religious Jews have no +religious intercourse with them, and regard them as +heretics. The Ashkenazim adapt themselves to any +costume. The Sephardim all wear the dignified and beautiful +Oriental costume. All unite in wearing the +love-locks. As to the women, they all dress in Oriental +costume, and wear their heads covered. On the Sabbath they +are all dressed in their best. Charms are worn on the heads +and foreheads and necks of young children, and a sprig of green +is worn also as a charm against the evil eye. The Rabbis +generally wear long flowing robes, trimmed with fur, and also a +turban.</p> +<p>Specially-appointed Rabbis see that the food is properly +prepared, as everything must be <i>kosha</i>, or legally +clean. Milk must not be taken before or after meat. +No Christian food on any account may be consumed; even eggs +cooked in Christian pots are refused. Only Jewish wine may +be drunk, and if a bottle of it is only touched by a Christian it +becomes unclean. The social and religious life of the Jew +is identical. The birth of a son causes great rejoicing, +and improves <a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +112</span>the social status of the mother. Circumcision on +the eighth day, if the child is strong enough, is a holy +festival. After eighteen all Jews are expected to +marry. Although facilities of divorce are large, they are +not often resorted to.</p> +<p>One is struck, said Dr. Wheeler, in living among Jews, with +the fact that religion amongst them is not only a creed or an act +of observance, but that it pervades every relationship and +dominates every phase of life. The Sabbath is the pivot +round which family life moves. It is a day of real +rejoicing, accompanied by a complete suspension of work. It +begins with the cup of blessing, of wine mixed with water, of +which all partake. The Sabbath lamp is lit. No burial +is allowed on that day. No phylacteries are worn while the +Cohenites give the Aaronic blessing—‘The Lord bless +thee and keep thee,’ etc. Visiting the sick has great +merit. According to the Talmud, eleven visits to the sick +will release a soul from Gehenna. All are enjoined to +follow funerals, and to pay honour to the remains of the +dead. After death the body is allowed to remain awhile +unburied. The creed of the Jew is as ancient as the +beginning of history. With it are connected the triumphs +and struggles and defeats of ages. What strange and +opposite feelings has the name of Jew created! What +appalling deeds have been perpetrated in connection with his +name! The Jew is in every sense, as Dr. Wheeler eloquently +told us, the marvel of history—the wonder of the +ages—the anomaly of nations. So it has been for +upwards of 4,000 years. He is Heaven’s great witness +on earth of earth’s righteous King in heaven. Nations +have risen and fallen. Mighty empires have crumbled <a +name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>to +decay. Assyria, Greece, Carthage, where are they? Yet +the Jew—scattered, despised, persecuted, and trampled under +foot—has never disappeared. Nay, more, he has risen +to be a light and guide to the nations; and many are the +statesmen and artists and philosophers who have had Jewish blood +in their veins. And yet, say certain good people, the Jews +are under a curse. Well, perhaps they are—when +poor. Poor people, it seems to me, are under a curse all +the world over. To the Jews, Jerusalem is the one holy +city, and here they come to die and be buried in its sacred +soil. Wealthy Jews in all parts of the world give freely +for charity and for charitable purposes, and it is this wealth +that brings so many poor Jews to Jerusalem. By these +benefactors Jewish children are educated gratuitously. They +have three synagogues, all very ancient, and the beautiful +pale-green dome of one of them is a conspicuous feature in the +view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. Jews, because +they persecuted the Christ, are not allowed to pass before the +Church of the Holy Sepulchre. They are also still +rigorously excluded from the Moslem sanctuary, where it is said +stood King Solomon’s Temple in all its glory, though +Christians have been admitted of late years to this +jealously-guarded spot, containing as it does the Dome of the +Rock—a very precious spot in Moslem eyes. Alas! +everywhere the Jew in Jerusalem has to come in contact with +‘the pig of a Turk,’ as he contemptuously calls +him. I wonder the wealthy Jews do not buy Jerusalem or +Palestine itself of the Sultan, who, however, does all he can to +keep the Jews from returning there to live and die. +Notwithstanding the place it fills in the world’s history, +the <a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +114</span>country is a small one. As it is, the Jews in +Jerusalem have the greater part of the trade of the city in their +hands. They own the shops and the cabs, and their numbers +increase every day, very much, as I have said, against the wishes +of the Sultan himself.</p> +<p>It is an awful history, that of the Jew in Jerusalem, of +incessant revolt on the part of the people, of incessant conquest +and massacre on the part of the sanguinary conquerors. +Again and again the Jew seemed on the brink of +extermination. Nebuchadnezzar, Antiochus, Titus, Hadrian, +successively exerted their utmost power to extinguish, not merely +the political existence of the State, but even the separate being +of the people. Hadrian, to annihilate for ever, writes Dean +Milman, all hopes of the restoration of the Jewish kingdom, +accomplished his plan of founding a new city on the site of +Jerusalem, peopled by a colony of foreigners. The city was +called Ælia Capitolina: Ælia after the prænomen +of the Emperor, Capitolina as dedicated to the Jupiter of the +Capitol. An edict was published to prevent any Jew from +entering the new city under pain of death, or approaching its +environs even at a distance so as to contemplate its sacred +height. More effectually to keep them away, the image of a +swine was placed over the gate leading to Bethlehem. The +more peaceful Christians were permitted to establish themselves +within the walls, and Ælia became the seat of a flourishing +church and bishopric. At a later period Julian the +Apostate—as the ecclesiastical writers term one of the +noblest men who ever wore the imperial purple—embraced the +extraordinary design of rebuilding the Temple of Jerusalem. +In a public epistle to the nation or community <a +name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>of the +Jews, he pities their misfortunes, condemns their oppressors, +praises their constancy, declares himself their gracious +protector, and hopes, after his return from the Persian war, he +may be permitted to pay his grateful vows to the Almighty in the +holy city of Jerusalem. The Jews from every part of the +world gave freely to assist this pious enterprise. +According to the Christian writers, Heaven interfered, and the +Temple was left unbuilt. This glorious deliverance was +speedily improved by the pious art of the clergy of Jerusalem and +the active credulity of the Christian world. It is evident, +as Gibbon remarks, the restoration of the Jewish Temple was +secretly connected with the ruin of the Christian Church, a +Church for which Julian had little love. From the +confessions of Jerome himself, Jerusalem seemed saturated with +every form of vice and crime.</p> +<p>They tell me the Jew is blind because he is waiting for the +coming Messiah, but, I ask, are we not all waiting for a coming +Messiah? And the sooner He comes the better for all of us, +Jew and Gentile alike. If the Jew is waiting for a coming +Messiah, that is surely to his credit—that he remains true +to the teaching of his fathers—and shows him to be no more +blind than those of us who piously await the dawn of a +millennium, which, according to all human appearances, seems as +far off as ever. When the Turkish Empire breaks up, it will +be no easy matter how to settle in whose hands Jerusalem shall be +placed. There may be a terrible fight about the Holy City +yet.</p> +<p>It is now the fashion for everyone to rush to Jerusalem. +At one time to go there required no little expenditure of money, +and time, and trouble. An <a name="page116"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 116</span>excursion-steamer takes you there +for a trifle compared with the expense of the journey only a few +years ago. You land at Jaffa, take the train to Jerusalem, +and in due time find yourself outside the Jaffa Gate, guarded by +Turkish soldiers. Amidst a dirty, many-coloured mob of +donkeys, camels, and people, exhausted by the heat, suffocated by +the dust, and bewildered by the noise, you are at the Holy City, +as lying superstition terms it. It certainly is not +Jerusalem the golden, but is very much the reverse. Its +smells are indescribable, and to drink its water is death. +Your first wonder is why David and Solomon should ever have made +it a royal residence at all. It is a city set upon a hill, +but it is dominated by hills all round, where no verdure is seen, +and where the black goat alone finds a scanty existence. +Climb one of these hills, and you look down on the gray, stony +city, surrounded by a high wall, over which rise minarets, and +mosques, and church spires in wild confusion. There is +nothing to charm the eye there. Enter through one of the +gates, and you are still more disappointed. You wander in +hopeless confusion, shut in on all sides by lofty buildings, with +no windows to speak of, only here and there a door; or you plunge +into a street with a dark awning, which serves as a bazaar, with +shops of all kinds around, where so dense is the crowd that it is +with difficulty you make your way. Poverty seems to be the +prevailing characteristic of the place. Even the shops fail +to attract.</p> +<p>Money is the one thing Jerusalem sucks in as a thirsty soul +does water when it comes, and many well-meaning people find there +a living prepared for them who would otherwise have to +starve. As to the real <a name="page117"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 117</span>state of the people you never hear a +word. The Turkish tax-gatherer may grind them down. +The wild Bedouin of the desert may come and take what the +tax-gatherer has left. But you hear nothing of that, and +the daily topic of conversation among the European settlers is +the repetition of dogma and the fulfilment of prophecy. It +is not till you have cleared out, taken the rail to Jaffa, and +sail along the blue waters of the Mediterranean, that you get rid +of the nightmare, have done with cant, and once more breathe +free.</p> +<p>The fact is, the Holy City is one gigantic fraud. All we +know is that there Christ lived and laboured and suffered and +died. Not a stone remains of the Jerusalem over whose +impending fate He shed bitter tears. The cunning of an +interested priesthood has done all the rest, from the discovery +of the true cross by the mother of Constantine, to the holy fire +which is seen at Easter by a panting, perspiring crowd in the +Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The town itself covers an +area of more than 209 acres, of which thirty-five are occupied by +the Haram-esh-Sherif. The remaining space is occupied by +Christians, Mohammedans, and Jews.</p> +<p>The Greek Church is the strongest branch of the Christians in +Jerusalem, having eighteen monasteries, with schools, churches, a +hospital, hospice, and a printing press. The Russian church +on the Mount of Olives is the grandest ecclesiastical building in +the city of the modern type. The Roman Catholics have fine +churches, monasteries, and convents. The Armenian Patriarch +resides in his convent between the Jaffa and Zion gates. +The Latins, Abyssinians, and Copts are also well +represented. The Knights Templars of the <a +name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>Holy +Sepulchre, a Roman Catholic body under the patronage of the +Emperor of Austria, have a fine convent just outside the +walls. Priests, and nuns, and sisters of mercy, and +devotees, meet you at every turn.</p> +<p>One ought to go to Jerusalem if only to see what priests can +build up on small foundations, and to what length superstition +can be carried, even in what are termed days of light and +progress. In this respect the Turk is as great a sinner as +the Christian, and tells you how at the resurrection the risen +will have to cross the Valley of Jehosaphat by a bridge of the +Prophet’s hair, from which the wicked will fall straight to +Gehenna, while to the righteous heaven, with its houris, will +open its diamond gates. You see in Jerusalem what you see +nowhere else, a city built up by religion, true or false.</p> +<p>In a letter from the Rev. Ben Oliel to a friend, he says:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘You want to know what is (1) the actual +population of Jerusalem; (2) the Jewish population in it; and (3) +the number of Jews in all Palestine.</p> +<p>‘The Turkish Government, like that of other lands, has +its statistical “bureau”—office; but whatever +may be its success in the European provinces of the empire, here +in Asia its computations are believed to be imperfect, +unreliable, and mainly guesswork. The conscription and +consequent tax for exemption from military service operate +against it. The heads of the several religious +communities—Turkish or Moslem, Jewish, Latin, Greek, +Armenian, Copt, Maronite, Melchite, etc.—who co-operate in +the census, have powerful motives to frustrate exactitude, for it +means a larger annual taxation, for which they are made <a +name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +119</span>responsible; and, apart from this, the inhabitants have +strong prejudices against being numbered. Therefore, all +estimates of population are merely approximate, and nothing +more.</p> +<p>‘A young Jew of the highest family in this city, who is +employed in offices of trust in the Pasha’s court and has +access to official records, a convert of this mission, who +confessed his faith in the Lord Jesus on October 27, tells me +that in official circles the population of Jerusalem, including +its suburbs—Bethlehem, Bethany, the Mount of Olives, +etc.—is now computed at 100,000, of which 60,000 are +believed to be Jews; and he declares my estimate of the general +population of Jerusalem and its immediate suburbs at from 65,000 +to 70,000, and the Jewish at about 40,000, to be far too +low. He is custodian of the roll of the Sephardim +poor—widows, orphans, blind and decrepit old men and their +families—amounting to 7,000 souls, that have to be provided +for regularly; and yet the Ashkenazim constitute the majority of +the Jewish inhabitants of Jerusalem now, and they have a roll of +poor as large proportionately. He says the Sephardim pay +£1,000 annually for exemption from military service, and +the Ashkenazim £1,250, which, at the rate of two +<i>medjidis</i> per head, represents 5,625 men of the age liable +to service. Jewish families are prolific, and must +therefore be calculated at seven rather than five per family, and +if one in each family is liable to service, the result is 39,375 +souls. But this has reference to the Jewish +<i>rayahs</i>—Turkish subjects; whereas there is a large +admixture of those under Russian, Austrian, German, etc., +protection, who are free from taxation, military or other. +By such a <a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +120</span>process of reasoning his estimate of 60,000 Jews for +Jerusalem is almost proved mathematically.</p> +<p>‘I have before me Luncz’s First Hebrew Almanack +for the Jewish year 1895–96, an interesting compilation; it +gives the population of Jerusalem thus: “Number of +inhabitants 45,420, of which Jews 28,112 (viz., Ashkenazim +15,074, Sephardim 7,900, Mughrabim 2,420, Gurgis 670, Bucharis +530, Tamanites 1,288, Persians 230); Moslems 8,560; Christians +8,748 (viz., Armenians 695, Greeks 4,625, Abyssinians 105, +Syrians 23, Protestants 645, Catholics or Latins 2,530, Copts +125).” He does not say so, but he can only mean the +population <i>inside the walls</i>.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>As an illustration of the difficulties awaiting the Jew who is +led to renounce Judaism, I quote from a convert’s letter a +few particulars:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘I will briefly say that I commenced the +journey of life in Jerusalem as son of one of the first Jewish +families that found their way back to the fatherland. +According to the custom of our people, my dear mother sent me to +school when I was only two. I sat at the feet of our Rabbi +school-teachers until I was twelve; then I studied the +Rabbis’ commentaries and had an Arab tutor. At +thirteen years of age I entered the Seraya, or Government House +of Jerusalem. I studied to be an Arabic and Turkish scribe, +and attended the Jewish school to learn French.</p> +<p>‘In the Government House there are three judges +appointed to represent respectively the Christian, Jewish, and +Moslem citizens. My uncle is the Jewish judge. At +sixteen I became one of the scribes of the Chief Justice, and two +years ago his assistant secretary.</p> +<p><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +121</span>‘When I used to visit Jaffa I heard about Mr. Ben +Oliel from many Jews who frequented his house for discussion and +study of God’s Word. In 1890 he came up to Jerusalem, +and at last I met him. The first time that I called upon +him I was in company with my father, my uncle the judge, the son +of the Chief Rabbi, and another Rabbi, one of the judges of the +Jewish Court.</p> +<p>‘The Chief Rabbi appoints twelve judges, who each serve +a term of three months every year, and every dispute between Jews +must first be brought before them, and, if needs be, is referred +by them to the Turkish Court.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In time the writer became a Christian and was baptized. +He adds:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘It was my desire to get the training that +would make me a good Christian teacher, but I could not travel +without a passport, and could not get this except through the +application of my father, who, instead, gave strict orders that +no passport should be made for me. After a year of vain +endeavour, I was able to persuade a friend who was in the office +where they are written, on the score of friendship, to give me a +<i>tishcara</i>, or local passport, which, however, he did not +dare to record; off in the country it served me well. My +plan was to start on a trip through the country and seize any +opportunity that might offer of getting to Egypt. I started +from the Damascus Gate, my faithful horse being my only +companion. We travelled first to Nablous, the ancient +Sichem, and finding that the Samaritans were soon to keep their +passover, I waited to see their celebrated <a +name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +122</span>sacrifice. Each family took a lamb, and they went +out and pitched their tents on Mount Gerizim before the tomb of +Sichem, the son of Hamor, whom they hold in great reverence, and +camped out there for eight days. On the first day their +high-priest sacrificed a lamb for each family, and every day he +himself mixed the unleavened cakes. Leaving Nablous, I +struck across country till I came to an Arab village on the +Jordan, and then followed its course until I came to +Tiberias. Along this part of the country many of the +villagers knew me, and wherever I was acquainted they entertained +me freely with their proverbial hospitality. At one Bedouin +encampment they insisted on roasting an entire sheep. This +they did in a very primitive fashion. They dug a ditch in +the earth, and made fire within it until it was very hot, and +then, removing the fire, they laid the lamb, well seasoned, on +the hot ashes, and then buried it for a couple of hours. It +then made a very savoury dish, of which we all partook, dipping +into the same dish.</p> +<p>‘Tiberias is one of the four sacred cities of the Jews, +and there I found a large number residing. It is also a +favourite resort because of its hot springs of healing +qualities. I had left Jerusalem almost ill, and so was very +glad to take a course of baths here.</p> +<p>‘From Tiberias I journeyed towards Nazareth, and visited +the Tomb of Jethro, near the horns of Hassau, where probably our +Lord preached His wondrous Sermon on the Mount. At Nazareth +I was hospitably entertained at the Latin Convent, and a priest +showed me all the sights of the town. Next day 400 or 500 +French pilgrims arrived, and I shared their entertainment.</p> +<p><a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +123</span>‘After three days I resumed my journey, with the +intention of embarking at Haifa and passing on to Egypt without +being seen at Jaffa.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And in due time the writer made his escape, and was welcomed +in America, mainly owing to the assistance of Mr. Ben Oliel, who +had been the means of his conversion.</p> +<h2><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +124</span>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">ALEXANDRIA.</p> +<p>We left Jaffa on the Monday, and in twenty-four hours after +were landed at Alexandria. Alexandria is not a desirable +place to land at; travellers have to trust generally to native +boatmen, who are a race of robbers. For instance, an +American gentleman described to me how it fared with him on +attempting to land a few years since. He and a friend made +a bargain with a respectable man to put them ashore. He +called a boatman, into whose boat they got with their +luggage. No sooner had the man rowed a little way from the +ship than he stopped and demanded the instant payment of a sum +four times the amount that had been agreed upon. The +travellers said they had made an agreement with his master, and +he was bound to carry it out. He replied that he had no +master; that the boat was his, that the oars were his, and that +he would neither take them back to the ship nor row them ashore +unless they complied with his request. One of the gentlemen +had a revolver, which he held at the rascal’s head, telling +him to prepare for instant death. The man sullenly obeyed, +but no sooner had he reached the shore than he <a +name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>landed and +preferred against the travellers a charge of attempting to murder +him. The affair promised to be serious, but it was +discovered by the judge that the revolver was not loaded, nor +ever had been loaded, and the travellers were at length allowed +to depart in peace. I heard of another case of a Frenchman +shooting his boatman, who refused to fulfil his contract. +In my case, happily, I landed on the quay, and had no trouble +with the boatmen at all.</p> +<p>At length I am fairly landed in the land of the +Pharaohs—a land whose records are engraved in stones, and +date thousands of years before the birth of Christ. You see +nothing of Alexandria till you approach it, and then it spreads +out before you in all its charm, from Pharos, the most ancient +lighthouse in the world, on one side, to Pompey’s Pillar on +the other. Soon after I land at the quay, I make my way to +the railway-station in a carriage and pair, for which I had +agreed to pay a shilling. At the station the driver has the +impudence to demand two shillings, which I refuse to give, whilst +a dragoman, who has fastened himself on to me, though I have +attempted to get rid of him, demands a shilling for his +unnecessary attendance. I offer him threepence; he is +indignant. ‘I am a dragoman,’ he exclaims in an +angry tone. ‘What do you take me for?’ At +length I give him sixpence, and he goes away in peace. I +smoke my first pipe of excellent Egyptian tobacco, swallow a tiny +cup of coffee, all sugar and grounds, and survey the scene from +the outside of the excellent railway-station, which is a credit +to the city. Every minute a blacking boy begs me to let him +clean my boots, but as I need not his services they are +declined. On my way I have seen <a name="page126"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 126</span>every sign of industry and wealth: +spacious shops, and a fine square adorned with handsome houses, +and with a good statue of Ibrahim Pasha—the man to whom +modern Egypt owes its first dawn of revived prosperity. The +municipal authorities of the place have +<a href="images/p126b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Pompey’s Pillar, Alexandria" +title= +"Pompey’s Pillar, Alexandria" +src="images/p126s.jpg" /> +</a>done much to promote its prosperity. The traveller will +find it to his advantage to stop here a day or two. The +hotels are excellent, and, with one exception, by no means +dear. The harbour is full of shipping and steamers, and the +number of trains laden with merchandise running between Cairo and +<a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +127</span>Alexandria seems incessant. The railway-carriages +are an immense improvement on those which take you from Jaffa to +Jerusalem. Alexandria has a population of over 300,000, and +its prosperity has greatly increased of late. The English +reside principally at Ramleh, five miles off, to which there is a +local train service. On your way you pass the battlefield +between the English and the French, where our General, Sir Ralph +Abercrombie, lost his life in the hour of victory.</p> +<p>Commerce seems to have had her birthplace in Egypt. In +the time of Joseph, we read, all countries came there to buy +corn. Fifteen hundred years before the birth of Christ its +merchants brought indigo and muslins from India, and porcelain +from China, and the fame of its mariners was great. The +trade route was down the Persian Gulf, along the Tigris, through +Palmyra—the Tadmor of old—down to the cities of the +Mediterranean. Arab mariners also sailed from India, +keeping close to the coast till they reached Berenice, in the Red +Sea, whence the goods were transported to Captos, thence down the +Nile to Alexandria. ‘Under such Emperors as the cruel +and dissipated Commodus,’ writes Mr. R. W. Fraser, in his +‘British India,’ ‘the plundering barbarian, +Caracalla, and the infamous Heliogabalus, the wealth that came +from the East through Alexandria to the imperial city of Rome, +passed away to Constantinople and the rising cities along the +Mediterranean.’</p> +<p>The glory of Alexandria in the olden time was the Serapeum, +sacred to the worship of Serapis, a god originally worshipped in +Sinope, and brought to Alexandria by the Emperor +Ptolemy—worshipped <a name="page128"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 128</span>eventually by the Romans as the +Supreme Being, the beneficent Lord of Life and Death. It is +clear the Ptolemies—at one and the same time Egyptian +Pharaohs and Greek princes—felt the need of a real and +presiding deity for the great city, with its enormous population, +not only from Greece and its colonies, but from all the nations +and tribes of the Mediterranean and the East.</p> +<p>As the seat of a god-worship became important, so did the +deity its patron. When Alexandria became the official and +mercantile capital of Egypt, Serapis became the chief of all the +gods of the land, and there his shrine was worshipped for nearly +one thousand years. The worship of Serapis was the last to +fall before the advancing force of Christianity. The +philosopher saw in Serapis, writes Macrobius, nothing more than +the <i>anima mundi</i>, the spirit of whom universal nature is +the body; so that by an easy transition Serapis came to be +worshipped as the embodiment of the one Supreme whose +representative on earth was Christ. This is clear from a +letter written by the Emperor Hadrian <span +class="smcap">a.d.</span> 131. ‘I am now +become,’ writes Hadrian, ‘fully acquainted with that +Egypt which you extol so highly. I have found the people +vain, fickle, and shifting with every change of opinion. +Those who worship Serapis are, in fact, Christians; even those +who style themselves the bishops of Christ are actually devoted +to Serapis. There is no chief of a Jewish synagogue, no +Samaritan, no Christian bishop, who is not an astrologer, a +fortune-teller, or a conjurer. The very Patriarch of +Tiberias is compelled, when he comes to Egypt, by one party to +adore Serapis, by another to worship Christ.’</p> +<p><a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>And +this seems to show that some Christians, in order to escape +persecution, enjoyed their own faith under the cover of the +national and local worship, which was susceptible of a spiritual +interpretation quite cognate to their own ideas. A similar +case occurred in Spain, as the historical reader may remember, +when so many Jews, in fear of the Inquisition, nominally became +Roman Catholics. Accordingly, it is clear that the tone of +the higher, the fashionable society in Alexandria was to believe +that on some grander or philosophic theory all these religions +differed in form, but were essentially the same; that all adored +one Logos or Demiurge under different names, all employed the +same arts to impose on the vulgar, and all were equally +despicable to the real philosopher.</p> +<p>The worship of Serapis was abolished in the reign of +Justinian, and of the former glory of the Serapeum nothing now +remains, unless it be Pompey’s Pillar, which was said by +some to have formed part of the Serapeum. According to +Tacitus, sick persons were accustomed to pass a night in the +Serapeum in order to regain their health. The colossal +statue of Serapis was involved in the ruin of his temple and +religion. It was believed that if an insult were offered to +that statue, chaos would ensue. When a Christian soldier +aimed his first blow, even the Christians trembled for the +event. The victorious soldier, Gibbon tells us, repeated +his blows; the huge idol was overthrown and broken in pieces, and +the limbs of Serapis were ignominiously dragged through the +streets of Alexandria. His mangled carcase was burnt in the +amphitheatre amidst the shouts of the people, and many persons +attributed their conversion to this <a name="page130"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 130</span>discovery of the impotence of their +great deity. A process something similar, attended with +similar results, has more than once occurred in the history of +missionary enterprise.</p> +<p>Deeply interesting is Alexandria from a historical point of +view. It was founded by Alexander the Great more than 300 +years before Christ. King Ptolemy, the first of that name, +made it the capital of his kingdom, laid the foundations of its +enormous library, and held out inducements to men of learning to +come from all parts of the world to settle there. During +the siege of the city by the Romans the library was burnt, but +Antony afterwards gave the library a large collection of +manuscripts, which formed the nucleus of a second library. +In the early centuries of our era the town was torn with +religious dissensions about the Jews and religious dogma. +It was here the beautiful Hypatia, the fair heroine of +Kingsley’s celebrated novel, was torn to pieces by an +infuriated mob. St. Mark is said to have preached the +Gospel here. It was here that there arose fierce +discussions between Arius and Athanasius and Cyril. The +Christians were persecuted with great severity by Decius, by +Valerianus, and Diocletian. The city then declined in +wealth and importance. Its population dwindled away. +All fanatics, Christian or pagan, seem to me equally to +blame.</p> +<p>It was at one time, as I have said, the headquarters of the +worship of Serapis. The temple stood to the east of +Alexandria, near Pompey’s Pillar. It is said to have +been one of the most remarkable buildings in the world, and was +filled with excellent statues and other works of art. It +was destroyed by the Christian fanatic, Theophilus, during the +reign <a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>of +Theodosius II. Gibbon describes the prelate as ‘a +bold, bad man, the perpetual enemy of peace and virtue, whose +hands were alternately polluted with gold and blood.’ +The library of the Serapeum is said to have contained about +400,000 manuscripts; at any rate, when it was burnt by the +command of the Khalif Omar, the manuscripts were said to have +been sufficiently numerous to heat the public baths for six +months. Perhaps it is as well they were not all +preserved. Of making many books there is no end, and many +are the books published in this intelligent age, the burning of +which would be no loss, but a gain, to the reading public. +Among the famous men who studied in the original library of +Alexandria were Strabo, Hipparchus, Archimedes, Plato, and +Euclid.</p> +<p>Then came the blighting rule of the Turk, and the wise men +moved away. They are all vanished—gone; in their +place have come the Jew banker, the tradesman, and the merchant +prince. The people amuse me. They wear the cotton +tunic longer, and have a more Arabian cast of feature than the +Jews. I see a funeral, with a long line of women +following. I see a Turk at his devotions. He spreads +a small carpet before him, then raises his arms above his head, +muttering something all the while; then he bows his body so that +the head touches the ground, and so he goes on.</p> +<p>In a little while we are off for Cairo, or Caire, as they call +it here. On my way I get my first glimpse of one of the +branches of the Nile, one of the largest, and certainly the most +renowned, rivers in the world. In a few days I see more of +the Nile, the overflow of which has not yet been dried up, and +watch the people <a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +132</span>in the mud, far too soft to admit of ploughing, hoeing +the land, rich and dark, and casting in the seed which is soon to +bear an abundant harvest. On our way to Cairo we pass a +fertile country, and see crops of sugarcane and rice and maize +growing, and the blue-clad fellaheen at work. We pass +several big towns, which seem thickly populated and full of +life. The houses are everywhere the same—white, with +flat roofs.</p> +<p>As originally founded, Alexandria was only equalled by Rome +itself. It comprehended a circumference of fifteen miles, +and was peopled by 300,000 free inhabitants, besides at least an +equal number of slaves. The lucrative trade of Arabia and +India flowed through its port to Rome and the provinces. No +one lived an idle life. There was plenty of work for all, +chiefly in glass-blowing, weaving of linen, and the manufacture +of papyrus. The people, a mixture of all nations under the +sun, were difficult to rule, and always ready for sedition. +A transient scarcity of flesh or lentils, the neglect of a public +salutation, a mistake of precedency in the public baths, or a +religious dispute, such as the sacrilegious murder of a divine +cat, was quite sufficient to create a bloody tumult.</p> +<p>Origen was a native of Alexandria. It was there, after +his time, that the endless controversy as to the nature of the +Three Persons in the Trinity originated—a controversy which +lasted for centuries, which led to wars and massacres, and which +finally separated the Churches of Greece and Rome. The +Jews, who had settled in Alexandria by the invitation of the +Ptolemies, carried the teaching of Plato into their religious +speculations. In time Arius arose to proclaim his idea of +the Logos, and Athanasius to oppose and protest, and <a +name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>ultimately +triumph. The Homoousians prevailed, and the Homoiousians +were branded and persecuted as heretics—enemies alike to +God and man; yet Athanasius was driven from his diocese, and the +famous St. George of Cappadocia reigned in his stead. The +pagans of Alexandria, who still formed a numerous and +discontented party, were easily persuaded to desert a Bishop whom +they feared and esteemed. At a later time Cyril became the +Archbishop, and distinguished his orthodox career by the +animosity with which he expelled the Jews, and opposed the +doctrine of Nestorius, who taught that there was a Divine and +human Christ, and refused to worship the Virgin Mary as the +mother of God.</p> +<p>‘He was a most expert logician,’ writes Zosimus, +‘but perverted his talents to evil powers, and had the +audacity to preach what no one before him had ever suggested, +namely, that the Son of God was made out of that which had no +prior existence; that there was a period of time in which He +existed not; that as possessing free will, He was capable of +vice; and that He was created, not made.’ At the +Council of Nicæa, held in the reign of Constantine, it was +decided that Christ and the Father were of one and the same +nature, and the doctrine of Arius, that Christ and God were only +similar in nature, was declared heretical. Nevertheless, +the Arians became more numerous than ever under the reign of +Valens. As soon as the Christians of the West, writes +Gibbon, had extricated themselves from the snares of the creed of +Rimini, they happily relapsed into the slumber of orthodoxy, and +the small remains of the Arian party that still subsisted in +Sirmium or Milan might be considered as <a +name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>objects of +contempt rather than resentment. But in the provinces of +the East, from the Euxine to the extremity of Thebais, the +strength and number of the hostile factions were equally +balanced, and this equality, instead of recommending the counsels +of peace, served only to perpetuate the horrors of religious +war. The monks and bishops supported their arguments by +invectives, and their invectives were sometimes followed by +blows. Athanasius still reigned at Alexandria, but the +thrones of Constantinople and Antioch were occupied by Arian +prelates, and every episcopal vacancy was the occasion of a +popular tumult. The Homoousians were fortified by the +reconciliation of fifty-nine Macedonian or semi-Arian bishops, +but their secret reluctance to embrace the Divinity of the Holy +Ghost clouded the splendour of their triumph, and the declaration +of Valens, who in the first years of his reign had imitated the +impartial conduct of his brother, was an important victory on the +side of Arianism. Well might Dr. Arnold write that it was +an evil hour for the Church when Constantine connected +Christianity with the State. It is really wonderful that +real Christianity survived that fatal step when the sword of the +civil magistrate was drawn in its support. It is hardly yet +recognised that the religion of Jesus of Nazareth flourishes best +when free from State patronage and control.</p> +<h2><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +135</span>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">IN CAIRO.</p> +<p>Covered with dust, parched with thirst, exhausted with hunger, +burnt up with heat, I am landed at the charming Hôtel du +Nil, in the gardens of which, filled up with American +rocking-chairs, and trees bearing gorgeous red flowers and +bananas and palms, and eucalyptus and banyan-trees all around, I +realize as I have never done before something of the splendour +and the wondrous beauty of the East. It must have been a +fairy palace at one time or other, this Hôtel du Nil, with +an enchanted garden. In the day it is intolerably hot, but +the mornings and evenings are simply perfection. If there +be an Elysium on earth, it is this. I feel inclined to +pitch my tent here, and for ever bid adieu to my native +land. The dinners are all that can be desired, the bedrooms +large and lofty, and the servants, who, with the exception of the +German waiters, are Soudanese—tall, white-robed, with a +girdle round the middle—seem to me to be the best and most +attentive in the world. There is nothing they will not do +for me, and they are honest as the day. Apparently the dark +boys have a good deal of the negro in their blood. I walk +out to see the fine <a name="page136"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 136</span>buildings and palaces which lie +between me and the railway-station, but I cannot stand the bustle +and confusion of the street, and soon beat a hasty retreat. +The infirmities of old age follow me into this land of perpetual +youth.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p136b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"General view of Cairo" +title= +"General view of Cairo" +src="images/p136s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>I walk outside the narrow and sombre lane which leads to the +hotel in the quaint and ancient street Mousky. Let me +attempt to describe it, and it will give the reader an accurate +idea of Oriental life. The Mousky is the busiest street in +all Cairo. Here meet Greek and Syrian, Anglo-Saxons, +American or English, Armenian and Turk, Maronite and Druse, +Italians, French, Russians, German, Dutch, and Belgian, and the +vast army of residents, men, women, and children, of all shades +and complexions, from the ebony-black Soudanese to the +olive-tinted Arab, walk its length, penetrate its dark and +confusing bazaars, and there <a name="page137"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 137</span> +<a href="images/p137b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"A street in Cairo" +title= +"A street in Cairo" +src="images/p137s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>is +nothing more for you to see. Donkey drivers, who beset me +at every step, and the guides on the look-out for their prey, are +a perpetual nuisance, even though they assure me they like the +English and are glad to see them here.</p> +<p>Crowded together are nooks and corners where native merchants +ply their trades, and the gloom of some dark recess is lit by the +glowing blue and scarlet and purple of Persian rugs, and the +glare of polished and embossed brass. In the street the +modern descendant of Tubal Cain is hard at work, and the tailor +plies his needle, and the cigarette-maker rolls up his tobacco in +its thin wrapper of paper, and the weaver bends over his loom, +differing in nothing from that used by his forefathers a thousand +years ago. Eatables and drinkables of strange flavour and +colour are exposed for sale, and pedlars meet you at every turn +uttering hoarse and discordant cries. There is quite a buzz +of conversation, but I cannot understand a word. Why, I +ask, did not Leibnitz carry out his grand idea and give us a +universal language? It would have saved some of us a good +deal of trouble. The pavement is too narrow for anyone to +walk on, as the shopkeeper sits outside smoking his cigarette, +while the customers also do the same, and the street is +completely blocked. You are obliged to get into the narrow +way where carriages and donkey and luggage waggons meet you at +every step.</p> +<p>Women abound, all clad in black, with a black cloth over their +faces, leaving only the eyes and nose visible, and a cheek of +pallid skin. The nose is covered with a little gilt +ornament, I suppose they call it, coming from the forehead, so +that you really see nothing of it. <a +name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>Now and +then you pass a coffee-house where smoking and gambling seem to +be going on all day. In the course of my ramblings I came +to a street lined with scribes on stones writing letters for +their clients, and was struck with the firm, clear hand in which +their letters are written—all in Arabic, of course. +Every now and then a swell passes me in his carriage, with a +running footman to clear the way with a white or black +staff. I expect to be knocked down every minute. To +walk the Mousky in peace and safety, you require to be as deaf as +a post and to have a pair at least of good eyes at the back of +your head.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p139b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Tomb of the Caliphs of Cairo" +title= +"Tomb of the Caliphs of Cairo" +src="images/p139s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Wearied, I return to the quiet and shady groves of the hotel, +a large pile of buildings streaked red and yellow, with a grand +bit of garden ground at the back, and a wooden tower, from which +you may see all Cairo at a glance. All the houses are +flat-roofed, and many <a name="page140"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 140</span>of them look unfinished, though not +in reality so. I sink into a rocking-chair, light my pipe, +and talk of the future of Cairo. I say I want to visit a +Coptic Church, the church which was held heretical by the +Orthodox Church, as they were said to have held imperfect ideas +of the dual nature of Christ. One gentleman tells me I had +better keep away, as the priests will pick your pockets in the +very church. He has 300 Copts in his employ, and gives them +all a very bad character. I ask as to the Khedive; everyone +gives him a bad character, though he has discovered one wife is +enough for any man. ‘He has the bad blood of his +father and grandfather,’ says an Englishman to me. He +has a thin veneer of civilization, but he is weak and ignorant, +eaten up with ambition, and over head and ears in debt, though +his allowance is £100,000 a year, a sum which should go far +in a city where the price of labour is from two piastres to five, +the piastre being valued at twopence halfpenny.</p> +<p>The people live exclusively on maize-corn, certainly not an +expensive article of diet. The intelligent people are all +in favour of the English Government, but, alas! the majority does +not in Cairo, as I am told it does at home, represent the +enlightened opinions of an intelligent people. I hear the +shilly-shally policy of the English Government bitterly +condemned. We are here, and must remain here. As it +is, the people know not what to expect. There is no +progress, but a terrible paralysis all over the city. +‘I like you English,’ said an intelligent native; +‘but you are here to-day and may be gone to-morrow, and +then we who have adhered to England will all have our <a +name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>throats +cut. We are like a boat between two shores, and know not +whither we are going. The English must either stop or +go.’ Our stay is to the lasting advantage of all the +European nations.</p> +<p>We have wonderfully improved the condition of the fellaheen, +who, according to all I hear, are not too thankful for the +liberty we have gained for them. I met an intelligent old +Greek, who deeply resented that we had abolished flogging—a +little of it now and then, according to him, did the natives +good. Manual labour is so cheap that it is used in every +department. At the hotel I note that they bring the coals +in in baskets, and in the railway-station I see a native employed +in laying the dust, with a skin of water, which he carries on his +back, using the neck as a water-spout.</p> +<p>Of all the cities I have known—and, like Ulysses, I am +ever wandering with a hungry heart—I infinitely prefer +Cairo, and am not surprised that it is becoming more and more the +winter residence of the English aristocracy. It was a +delight to live when I was there, and as I took my breakfast +<i>al fresco</i> in the beautiful grounds of the Hôtel du +Nil, with tropical plants in full flower all round me, a bright +sun and unclouded blue sky above, the question whether life was +worth living seemed to me an absurdity. But, alas! no one +can look for perfect happiness—at any rate, on earth. +In Cairo there are the flies, not so bad as I have seen them in +Australia or America, but a terrible infliction +nevertheless. One of my companions, Mr. Willans, the +popular proprietor of the <i>Leeds Daily Mercury</i>, suffered +much from them, and had for a time to give up reading and +writing, and to wear coloured <a name="page142"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 142</span>glasses, but I was let off more +easily. In Cairo, for the first time, I realized what a +luxury it was to have dates to eat. We at home, who buy +dates at the grocer’s, have no idea how juicy the date of +Cairo is. +<a href="images/p142b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Donkey Boy, Cairo" +title= +"Donkey Boy, Cairo" +src="images/p142s.jpg" /> +</a>Then the heat is great, and walking far is out of the +question. But what of that? Directly you turn into +the street the donkey-boy comes up to offer you a ride; and the +Cairo donkey is lively, large, and white, and <a +name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>well +groomed, sure of foot, swift in speed, and beautiful to look +at. An English coster’s moke is not to be named on +the same day with the Cairo donkey, on which you can have a ride +for a trifling sum.</p> +<p>Life and prosperity seem everywhere to prevail, and the +station at Cairo conducts you at once into a fine city, with +broad streets, well watered, and shaded by trees, handsome shops, +fine hotels, beautiful gardens, and the inevitable statue of +Mohammed Ali, who did so much to develop modern Egypt. +Palaces of all kinds attract the eye, one of the finest of these +being the residence of Lord Cromer. Cairo is distinctly a +society place, though, perhaps, not so much so as Cannes or Nice, +and living is dear, though cheaper than it used to be. +French seems the language principally used, though the guides, +who pester you at every corner, and the donkey-boys, who are +equally persistent, have a confusing smattering of English. +The resident English colony is chiefly composed of the diplomatic +and Consular bodies, or of those connected with the different +Consular departments, and of officers of the garrison. You +meet many English soldiers whose appearance is creditable to the +country, and amongst the birds of passage are many +Americans. There are two good clubs for visitors—the +Khediveal and the Turf, the latter chiefly supported by army +officers. The theatre, where French plays and Italian +operas are performed, is a very fine building. In the same +neighbourhood is also a <i>café chantant</i> in the +gardens. All day long, under the bright blue sky, the scene +is very animated.</p> +<p>But the visitors, although a welcome addition, do not entirely +make up Cairene society. The gaiety <a +name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>begins and +is mainly kept up by the residents, especially the British civil +and military, who are always most hospitable at the winter time +of year. Cairo is no doubt a court and capital, the +residence of the sovereign to whom diplomatists are accredited +from all the civilized Powers. But it is also a British +military station, and it owes much of its present liveliness to +the British officers and civil servants.</p> +<p>It was the British garrison that established the Cairo +Sporting Club, where good polo is played, and very fair cricket, +‘squash’ rackets, and lawn-tennis; where there are +monthly race-meetings, and officers ride steeplechases on their +own horses. The big lunches, the pleasant afternoon teas, +the dances and flirtations so constantly in progress, are +essentially British.</p> +<p>Out at Mena, under the shadow of the Sphinx, there is a +golf-course, and the caddie is an Arab boy in a long blue +bed-gown, and you can aim your ball from the putting-green +straight at the Pyramid of Cheops. Out at Matarieh, just +where Mr. Wilfrid Blunt lives the life of an Arab patriarch, +under tents, surrounded by his flocks and herds, there is a +training stable, and the British sporting subaltern keeps his +‘tit’ there, and comes out to give him his gallops at +early dawn.</p> +<p>But it is as you get away from the broad streets of new Cairo, +and plunge into the bazaars and the narrow streets, that you +realize what a bewildering place old Cairo is. The city of +Cairo covers an area of three square miles, and greatly exceeds +the limit of the old walls. On the south stands the ancient +citadel, on a rock, memorable for the massacre of the +Mamelukes. Of the most perfect of the old gateways still <a +name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>remaining +is the Gate of Victory. Above the archway is an Arabic +inscription: ‘There is no god but God, and Mohammed is His +Prophet.’ The streets are narrow and irregular, and +badly paved, while the white houses, with their overhanging +windows, are, at any rate, picturesque.</p> +<p>The bazaars are of all sorts: the leather-sellers have one, +the carpet-dealers another, silk-merchants another, and +everywhere purchaser and buyer seem to spend a great deal of time +in smoking cigarettes. The gold bazaar is so narrow that +three persons can scarcely pass; there, and at the silver bazaar, +you see the artificers constantly at work. Coptic churches +and mosques you meet everywhere. There is a good attendance +at the English Church; there are also a Presbyterian Church, and +two Roman Catholic churches. I saw the bishop of one of +them, who was to preach, driving along in very grand style. +The Wesleyans have also a chapel. The howling dervishes +have also their sanctum, where they exhibit their peculiarly +unpleasant powers. I decline to go and see them, as +everyone tells me they are a fraud; and if I want to be deceived, +there is the Egyptian conjuror always ready with his little +tricks. He comes daily to the hotel to give a performance; +also daily resort there the Egyptian minstrels, whose +performances we all greatly applaud.</p> +<p>The English have a party paper called the <i>Sphinx</i>, +which, however, I fancy has little influence in the formation of +public opinion. In Alexandria a daily English paper is +published, which reaches Cairo about eight in the evening, but +which gives little general news, and is chiefly devoted to trade +and commerce. <a name="page146"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 146</span>It was with a heavy heart I left +Cairo and its bright and busy life for the gray skies and bleak +winds of my native land. My consolation is that we breed +better men than they do in southern climes—a fact of which +the Roman Cæsars were aware when they drew their best +troops from Britain or Northern Gaul.</p> +<p>The French complain bitterly of English influence in +Egypt—a country for which we have done much, and which, if +it ever becomes prosperous, will owe its prosperity to England +alone; and yet it is the fact that the Englishman in Egypt lies +under peculiar disadvantages, and that as much as possible +English enterprise is discouraged and destroyed. It ought +not to be so. We who have made Egypt what it is, who have +fought its battles, developed its resources, improved the +condition of its people, destroyed its corrupting and enervating +influences, put its finances in a healthy condition, may be +expected to have, at any rate, fair play there.</p> +<p>That this is not so, the case of Mr. Fell, of Leamington, one +of the few men who have raised themselves from the ranks and +become honoured far and near, is a notorious illustration. +In 1890 he obtained a concession from the Egyptian Government +giving him the right to make tramways in the city of Cairo. +The particular department of the Egyptian Government which has to +do with such affairs has at its head a Secretary of +State—at that time the office was held by Sir Colin Scott +Moncrieff—and a financial adviser appointed by the Egyptian +Government on the recommendation of the English Government. +Mr. Fell went to Egypt, had the whole city surveyed, and the +plans drawn, a difficult task which occupied a considerable <a +name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>amount of +time. In August of the same year he bought the steel rails, +ordered the cars to be built, and did all he could to hasten the +fulfilment of his contract, and, as a security, deposited with +the Egyptian Government twenty-two Egyptian bonds of the value of +£100 each. To still further strengthen his position, +he had a letter from Sir Colin Scott Moncrieff to the effect that +he was quite satisfied that Mr. Fell had complied with legal +requirements.</p> +<p>So far all was straight sailing, but in April the Egyptian +Government confiscated the bonds Mr. Fell had deposited with +them, and also declared the contract null and void, on the ground +that he had failed to comply with the conditions under which the +contract was made. Mr. Fell had a long correspondence with +the Egyptian Government of a very unsatisfactory character. +In 1893 he returned to Egypt, and interviewed the +authorities. Lord Cromer advised him to go to law. In +his action against the Government, he was defeated on the plea +that the letters written by Sir Scott Moncrieff, as Secretary of +State, were not valid. In the meanwhile, the Egyptian +Government advertised for a new concession in July, 1894, for +which Mr. Fell again tendered, depositing a thousand +guineas. In compliance with a request from the Egyptian +Government, Mr. Fell again returned to Egypt, but found, on his +arrival, that the contract had been given to a Belgian firm, who +frankly admitted that they had paid so much for the concession +that it was scarcely worth having. ‘My loss in +consequence,’ said Mr. Fell to me, ‘is at least from +£17,000 to £20,000, and this all through French +intriguing.’</p> +<p>Such is a brief outline of a case of hardship, not <a +name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>to an +individual, but the whole nation. Practically speaking, +there is no British capital invested in Egypt except what was +there previous to 1882. In the railway department, for +instance, of late years all the works have been carried on by +French and Belgian—to the exclusion of +British—contractors. All the contracts for bridges +which have recently been let have been let to Belgian +contractors. The only companies that thrive in Egypt are +French companies. Everything is in their favour. The +law officers of the Crown are exclusively foreign, principally +Corsicans, and they are able to control the native tribunal, +notwithstanding the fact that there are English judges upon it; +and to these Corsican law officers it is due that so much +anti-English feeling exists in Egypt at this present time. +Assuredly, Egypt makes us but a poor return for the money and +blood we have spent in its behalf. We have a right to +expect better treatment. If John Bull stands this sort of +thing, he must be a poor creature indeed.</p> +<p>Anthony Trollope gives us an amusing illustration of the +official life of Cairo in his time. He was sent there by +the English Post-Office to accelerate the mail-service to Suez, +and it took him two months to do his business. ‘I +found, on my arrival,’ he writes, ‘that I was to +communicate with an officer of the Pasha, who was then called +Nubar Bey. I presume him to have been the gentleman who +lately dealt with our Government as to the Suez Canal shares, and +who is now well known as Nubar Pasha. I found him a most +courteous gentleman, an Armenian. I never went to his +office, nor do I know that he had an office. Every other +day he would come to me at my hotel, and bring <a +name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 149</span>with him +servants and pipes and coffee. I enjoyed his coming +greatly, but there was one point on which we could not +agree,’ and that was as to the rate of speed with which the +mails should be carried through Egypt. The Post-Office said +it must be done in twenty-four hours. The agent of the +Egyptian Government contended that it would take forty-eight +hours at the least. For a long time they could come to no +agreement. Both were equally obstinate. It was +impossible, said Nubar, that the mail could be carried at such a +rate. It might do for England, but would not do for +Egypt. The Pasha, his master, he said, would, no doubt, +accede to any terms demanded by the British Post-Office, so great +was his reverence for anything British. In that case, he, +Nubar, would at once resign his position and retire into private +life. He would be ruined, but the loss of life and +bloodshed which would follow would not rest on his head. +Nevertheless, he gave way after many days’ delay and a good +deal of smoking and coffee-drinking. The twenty-four hours +gained the day. It is to be hoped that official business is +done more quickly now. A two months’ stay in Cairo +over such an affair may have been pleasant. It certainly +was expensive, and someone other than Mr. Trollope had to pay the +bill.</p> +<p>Lord Cromer’s latest report of the state of matters in +Egypt is cheering. The finances are better. The +income from railways, customs, and tobacco has improved. A +great boon has been conferred on the fellaheen by the +experimental money advances made by Government to tide them over +till their cotton-crop is ripe. Hitherto they have had to +borrow from Greeks, who, however admirable in the character of +liberators, <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +150</span>are not so lovely as money-lenders. They charge +from 20 to 30 per cent. for their loans, and, in addition, always +take back an Egyptian pound, equal to £1 0s. 6d., for the +pound sterling. This is really more than an extra 2½ +per cent., for the loans are not for a whole year. There +are Mohammedan lenders, too. Their religion forbidding +usury, they take it out of the fellaheen in cotton. The +Government in their experimental loans have charged a half per +cent. per month, or 6 per cent. per annum. The experiment +was successful. Of nearly £8,000 lent between +February and July, all but £20 had been repaid with +interest by the end of November. The benefit that an +agricultural bank would be to the smaller cultivators has been in +this way realized by Lord Cromer, who suggests that private +bankers should take the experiment in hand.</p> +<p>The Government has also been checkmating the money-lenders by +sending them good seed at 58 pounds Turkish an ardeb, payable in +three instalments, upon finding out that the usurers were +advancing inferior seed at 70 to 100 pounds Turkish, payable at +cropping-time.</p> +<p>The land-tax is now got in with certainty, whereas formerly +the Government never knew what to estimate for arrears; the +post-office revenue is improving; exports and imports have gone +up by about two millions; the cotton-crops are better; the sugar +industry is rapidly increasing in Upper Egypt; the railway +receipts are the highest on record; railway extension is going +on, and plans and surveys for light railways are well advanced; +agricultural roads are constructed; there are electric tramways +and lighting in <a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +151</span>Cairo. The light dues will be decreased this +year. The only relic of forced labour is a yearly +diminishing amount for the protection of the Nile banks during +the period of flood. Crime is diminishing, and sanitary +reform is progressing. Education is advancing as far as +possible, considering the deficiency of funds, and slavery is +kept under.</p> +<p>As to the question when our work shall be done, and we English +shall retire from Cairo, it is impossible, says Sir A. Milner, to +give a definite answer. It would be difficult to +over-estimate what that work owes to the sagacity, patience, and +fortitude of the British Ambassador. The contrast between +the Egypt of to-day and the Egypt as it was when he first took it +in hand is the best testimony to his efficiency and wisdom. +All writers on Egypt agree in this. ‘There is not a +native,’ writes Mr. Wood, ‘that does not recognise at +heart the benefits of the British occupation’—a +remark which seemed to be to a certain extent true; but not quite +to the extent Mr. Wood suggests. ‘It is quite an +anachronism,’ Sir A. Milner remarks, ‘to suppose that +the interest of Egyptian finance centres in the debt, and that +the financial authorities of the country are the mere bailiffs of +the bondholders.’ As a matter of fact, now that it +has been established that the resources of Egypt can bear the +interest of the debt at its present rate, the last people whom an +Egyptian Finance Minister need trouble himself about are the +bondholders. Except when an occasion presents itself to +reduce the interest by the legitimate method of conversion, the +debt need no longer have a foremost place in his mind. +‘Even the Commissioners of the Caisse,’ writes Sir A. +Milner, ‘who only meet to <a name="page152"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 152</span>protect the creditors, and who from +time to time, to justify their existence, get up a little fuss +about some supposed danger to interests which in their hearts +they know to be perfectly secure—even the Commissioners of +the Caisse, I say, are more occupied now-a-days with employing +their reserve fund in developing the wealth of the country than +with needless anxieties about the coupon.’ Sir A. +Milner has no doubt well weighed his words. Of all the +romances of finance there are few to be compared with the +borrowings of Ismail, to whom is due the honour of having +originated the Egyptian National Debt.</p> +<h2><a name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +153</span>CHAPTER XV.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX.</p> +<p>There are two things in Egypt which amply repay the traveller +for his trouble. One is the museum at Gizeh, and the other +the pyramids, especially the Great Pyramid of Cheops. I did +them both in one day. It is a pleasant ride from Cairo, on +a road broad, well watered, and shaded all the way by large +acacia-trees. I did the museum first, though it will be a +matter of regret to me that I had only an hour to visit a +collection where one might usefully spend weeks, and that our +guide indulged in an English almost as unintelligible to us +as</p> +<blockquote><p> ‘The +heathen Greek<br /> +That Helen spoke when Paris wooed.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The palace which shelters the museum is said to have been +built at a cost of nearly 5,000,000 sterling. The edifice +is placed in spacious grounds close to the river, just opposite +the spot on the other side where Pharaoh’s daughter is said +to have come to bathe when she discovered Moses. It was +opened by the Khedive in 1890. The section devoted to the +exhibition of papyri is remarkably interesting, but to most of us +the gem of the collection is the splendid sarcophagus which <a +name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>contains +the body of Rameses II., the persecutor of the Israelites. +The features of his face are well preserved, but his head does +not give you any idea of any special intellectual capacity; and +the face of his father, who lies close by, is almost that of a +pure negro—that is, as far as I could make it out. On +one of the papyri is an inscription, of which I copy a portion, +in order to +<a href="images/p154b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Colossal Statue of Rameses II" +title= +"Colossal Statue of Rameses II" +src="images/p154s.jpg" /> +</a>give the reader an idea of the piety of the ancient +Egyptians:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘When thou makest an offering to God, offer +not that which He abominateth. Dispute not concerning His +mysteries. The God of the world is in the light above the +heavens, and His emblems are upon earth. It is unto these +that worship is paid daily. When thou hast arrived at years +of maturity, and art married and hast a house, forget never the +pains which thou <a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +155</span>hast cost thy mother, nor the care which she has +bestowed upon thee. Never give her cause to complain of +thee, lest she lift up her hand to God in heaven to complain of +thee, and He listen to her complaint.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It seems to me that we have a good deal to learn of the +ancient Egyptians yet.</p> +<p>To the Pyramids it is a drive of about five miles. When +we reached them it was too hot for most of us to attempt +climbing; yet several of our party did so, and came back +delighted with the view they had thus gained over all the country +round. I need not describe the appearance of the Great +Pyramid, standing as it does on the edge of the Libyan +desert—an enormous pile of stones, up which it would be +impossible to climb were it not for the help of the guides, who +are remarkably skilful in aiding the traveller in the perilous +ascent and the far more perilous descent, and at the same time +remarkably pressing for backsheesh. There is no evidence to +show that the Pyramids were built for astronomical purposes, and +the theory that the Great Pyramid was built as a standard of +measurement is equally worthless. Outwardly, they seem +nothing but a pile of big stones, broad at the base, tapering at +the top. A French savant has asserted that the stones of +the three Pyramids would make a wall round the frontier of +France. The Pyramid of Cheops was built <span +class="smcap">b.c.</span> 3733. Its four sides measure in +length about 755 feet at the base; its height is now 451 feet, +but it is said to have been originally about 481 feet.</p> +<p>Of late, as I have shown, the trip to the Pyramids cannot well +be easier or more agreeable. In 1868 Sir <a +name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>Stafford +Northcote thus describes his experiences: ‘We observed +nothing particular till we reached the Nile, when the scene of +crossing in the ferry-boats afforded us unmixed +satisfaction. The usual amount of noise in the streets at +Cairo was as silence to the noise at the waterside. Hosts +of donkeys were being pushed, pulled, beaten, or shouted at, and +eventually lifted into the boats, and then shoved off with loads +<a href="images/p156b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"Pyramid and Sphinx" +title= +"Pyramid and Sphinx" +src="images/p156s.jpg" /> +</a>that looked very unmanageable. We had a boat to +ourselves, and our donkeys took their places in it like old +stagers. We had a pretty strong breeze in our favour, and +sailed across easily enough, wondering how we were to get back +again. Soon after crossing, we came into the fine new road +which the Viceroy has made to the Pyramids, and which is +perfectly luxurious. It is as wide as the Edgware Road, but +not so hard, <a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +157</span> +<a href="images/p157b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Great Sphinx. (From a photograph taken by Dr. W. Ogle, +February, 1888)" +title= +"The Great Sphinx. (From a photograph taken by Dr. W. Ogle, +February, 1888)" +src="images/p157s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>and +must be charming for a horse’s foot. Avenues of +acacias are planted all along it, and when these have grown to +the size of those which line the earlier part of the road, the +approach will be in delicious shade all the way. Avenues of +trees are inferior in dignity to avenues of sphinxes, but make +pleasanter travelling. We were seized on in the usual way +and dragged up the Great Pyramid by the Arabs. I could have +got up a great deal better by myself, but it would have been +contrary to all precedent, and might have led to an +<i>émeute</i>. It took me twenty minutes to go up, +including a good stoppage for breath and another for a wrangle +between two Arabs. The view from the top was good, but one +could not enjoy it much in the presence of such a crowd. +The first thing my Bedouin did was to go down on his knees and +offer to cut my name, which I indignantly forbade. He then +proceeded to tender some coins (genuine antique, of course) at a +suspiciously low price, and finally he urged me to come down +quickly, in the hopes, no doubt, of getting hold of another +victim.’</p> +<p>Sir Stafford adds that he admired the Sphinx, which is, in +some respects, more interesting than the Pyramids +themselves. Now there is to be a tramway to the +Pyramids. But I fear the nuisance of the Arab guides +shouting and pushing will remain a nuisance still.</p> +<p>As I sit under what little shade I can find on the burning +sand, I am badgered to death by the dealers in imitation antiques +and the donkey boys. The white donkeys of Egypt are +beautiful animals, and sometimes fetch a hundred pounds. I +have seen a gentleman whose donkey cost him that sum. The +value of the common donkey to be met with in the streets of Cairo +<a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>is about +seven pounds. The finest donkeys in the world come from +Cyprus. The next best are those to be had at Syene, in +Egypt. I could tell much of the artfulness of the +donkey-boys. One of my companions was very stout, and did +not think it right to gallop, on account of his weight. +‘Me too fat,’ said he to the donkey-boy. +‘No,’ replied the latter—‘not too fat; +you fine man.’ Again, one of the ladies of our party +was enjoying a ride, when the boy plaintively remarked: +‘Fine lady—fine donkey—poor +donkey-boy!’ And the boy secured a little extra +backsheesh. I could fill a chapter with the smart sayings +of the donkey-boys. So far as I can make out, there is no +need for the donkey-boy to travel to Ireland to kiss the +Blarney-Stone. Alas for him, I was deaf to all his +flattery, and plunged on in the burning sand till I stood in the +presence of the world-renowned Sphinx.</p> +<p>At first I was disappointed in the Sphinx, but, like Niagara, +the more you look, the more you admire. Poets and literary +men have told us how it stands in the desert, and has stood for +centuries, overlooking the eternal sands as nations and dynasties +come and go. In reality its position is by no means +elevated, and you don’t see it till you are actually before +it. And yet one can in time realize something of that fine +passage in ‘Eothen,’ written half a century ago, +which tells how this unworldly Sphinx has looked down on ancient +kings of Ethiopian and Egyptian origin, upon Greek and Roman, +upon Arab and Ottoman conquerors, upon Napoleon, dreaming of an +Eastern empire, upon battle and pestilence, and how it will +remain watching when Islam will wither away, and the Englishman +will plant a firm foot on the banks of <a +name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 160</span>the +Nile. Originally it was crowned with a helmet; the stone +cap was only discovered as lately as 1896. Mr. John Cook +runs a four-horse coach to the Pyramids and back during the +season, and thus, at the foot of the Sphinx, the present and the +past meet and mingle. The age of the Sphinx is +unknown. All that is certain is that it was the work of one +of the kings of the ancient empire. A stele discovered of +the time of Thothmes, <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 1533, +records that one day, during an after-dinner sleep, Hermachis +appeared to Thothmes IV., and promised to bestow upon him the +crown of Egypt if he would dig his image the Sphinx out of the +sand. Another inscription recently discovered shows that +the Sphinx existed in the time of Cheops. The Sphinx is +here hewn out of the solid rock, but pieces of stone have been +added when necessary. The body is about 150 feet long, the +paws are 50 feet long, the head is 30 feet long, the face is 14 +feet wide, and from the top of the head to the base of the +monument the distance is about 70 feet. Originally there +were probably ornaments on the head, the whole of which was +covered with a limestone covering, and the face was coloured +red. Of these decorations scarcely any traces now remain, +though they were visible towards the end of the last +century. The condition in which the monument now appears is +due to the savage destruction of its features by the Mohammedan +rulers of Egypt, some of whom caused it to be used for a +target. Around this imposing relic of antiquity a number of +legends and superstitions have clustered in all ages. A +little to the south-east of the Sphinx stands the large granite +and limestone temple excavated by M. Marriette in 1853.</p> +<p><a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>And +now I have done with the East, and my face is turned towards +Marseilles. I am once more on board the <i>Midnight +Sun</i>, the quiet and repose of which are infinitely refreshing +after the tumult and bustle of Egypt. Long, long will I +remember the gorgeous East—its heat, its confusion, its +noise, its undying charm. To enjoy Cairo, you must go and +stop there a winter. My fellow-passengers seem to have been +lavish in their expenditure. One gentleman alone of our +party expended as much as £60 in the purchase of carpets +and gold-embroidered cloths, and for the ladies the bazaars seem +to have had peculiar charms. I am sure Dr. Lunn deserves +the hearty thanks of all our party for organizing what has proved +to be such a gratifying time. His brother and his +secretary, Mr. Wight, have done all in their power to make us +comfortable. There was no hitch in any of the +arrangements. Carriages and hotels were all of the very +best, and the cost of the whole trip was really remarkably +small. The ordinary traveller, making the trip on his own +account, must have had to pay a great deal more, and experienced +an amount of trouble and fatigue, and consequent loss of temper, +of which we passengers by the <i>Midnight Sun</i> have had no +conception.</p> +<p>The Doctor calls his tours educational ones, and provides us +with lectures. I did not much profit by the lectures, my +hearing being, alas! rather defective; yet we all of us got a +good deal of education during the course of our visit—the +education which comes to all of us from the use of our eyes and +ears, and the gift, or, rather, exercise, of common-sense.</p> +<p>I ought to mention that there is a very good hotel on your +right just as you get to the Pyramids; many <a +name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>gentlemen I +met were staying there, and spoke well of it. Some years +since a gentleman suffering from consumption built a house, and +went to live there in the hope that the pure air of the desert +would restore him to health. It did not. As is the +case with so many consumptive people, the remedy was deferred too +long. Many are those who have gone to the desert to +recover, but fade away and die, to the sorrow of those who loved +them, simply because they have deferred the remedy too +long. On the decease of the builder of the house, it was +greatly enlarged, and is now known as the Mena House Hotel. +Mena is the name of one of the most ancient Egyptian kings. +All round it stretches the desert right away to the great Sahara, +and there Byron might have realized his dream—which, +happily, he never realized, nor ever, perhaps, wished to—of +the desert being his dwelling-place, with some fair spirit for +his minister,</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Where he might soon forget the human +race,<br /> +And, hating no one, love but only her.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It was well for the noble poet, whose fame will grow when that +of our Poet Laureate and his brother rhymesters will have +collapsed, that the elements did not hear his prayer and accord +him his heart’s desire. But a fellow might do worse +than put up at the Mena Hotel, of which I, alas! only saw the +outside. One ought to stop some time at the Pyramids. +Mr. Pollard, who devotes considerable space to them—the +last authority on the subject—says the rocks upon which +they are built, ‘and the stones with which they are +constructed, abound with small fossil shells, which, from their +resemblance to money or coins, have caused <a +name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>this +limestone to be called nummulite. Other round, small +shells, closely resembling lentils, are also found; the Arabs say +that they were the food of the masons turned into stone. +The flora is interesting, though limited: an anthromis bearing +its strong characteristic scent, but without petals; a very +pretty small plant of the herbage family; and an umbelliferous +plant smelling strongly of aniseed, were all much appreciated by +the camels and snails.’</p> +<p>While I was there I saw no flowers, nor heard of any. +They had all withered under the scorching sun.</p> +<h2><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +164</span>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE RIVER NILE.</p> +<p>At length I gaze on the Nile—that marvellous river, the +sources of which, though many have tried to find them, have only +been discovered in our day. The history of Egypt is the +oldest known to us. A large portion of its history can be +constructed from the native records of the Egyptians, and those +records are all to be found on the banks of the Nile. Four +thousand four hundred years before Christ, Mena, the first King +of Egypt of whom we have a record, founded Memphis, having turned +aside the course of the Nile and established a temple service +there. In the reign of Ammenehat, 2,300 years before +Christ, special attention was paid to the rise of the Nile, and +canals were made and sluices dug for irrigating the country; the +rise of the Nile was marked on wells at Semnah, about thirty-five +miles above the second cataract, and the inscriptions are visible +to this day. A thousand years later Seti I. is said to have +built a canal from the Nile to the Red Sea. Under the Roman +Emperor Trajan the Nile and Red Sea Canal was reopened. +Egypt proper terminates at Syene: the territory south of that +town and each side of the new Nile is called <a +name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +165</span>Nubia. All Egypt depends upon the Nile; where the +Nile does not flow all is barrenness—nothing but sand and +rock.</p> +<p>The area of the land in Egypt available for cultivation is +about 11,500 square miles; the Delta contains about 6,500 square +miles, and the Nile Valley about 5,000. The country seems +to have been taken possession of by a people from the East about +5,000 years before Christ. They found there an aboriginal +people, with a dark skin and complexion. The Egyptians +generally called their land black (Kanit), and the term is +appropriate, if we consider the dark rich colour of the +cultivated land. In the Bible Egypt is known as Ham. +All nations have held the land, and have sent their people +thither. But it is a curious fact that the physical type of +the Egyptian fellah is exactly what it was in the earliest +dynasties.</p> +<p>The river Nile is one of the largest rivers in the +world. It is formed by the junction of two great arms, the +Blue Nile and the White; one rises in Abyssinia, at an elevation +of about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea; the other, the +true Nile, has its fountain-head in the Victoria Nyanza, a huge +basin far below the level of the country. The course of the +Nile has been explored about 3,500 miles. From Khartoum to +Cairo the Nile falls about 400 yards; its width in its widest +part is about 1,100 yards. After entering Egypt, the Nile +flows in a steady stream always to the north, and deposits the +mud which is the life of Egypt. The breadth of the Nile +Valley varies from four to ten miles in Nubia, and from fifteen +to thirty in Egypt. The width of the area of cultivated +land on each bank of the river in Egypt is never more than eight +or nine <a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +166</span>miles. The inundation caused by the descent of +rain on the Abyssinian mountains commences at the cataracts in +June, and in July makes a great show. The rise of the Nile +continues till the end of September when it remains stationary +about three weeks. In October it rises again, and attains +its highest level. When I saw it in November the waters had +subsided, and the peasants were hard at work, making the best of +their opportunity.</p> +<p>The ground was still too wet for ploughing, but gangs were +turning up the soil with hoes, and sowing the seed. It +seemed to be simple work, under the blue sky and the bright +sun. There was no need for high farming; Nature did +everything, and the toil of the labourer was richly +rewarded. It made me think of what Douglas Jerrold said of +Australia—that it was a country so fertile that ‘if +you but tickle her with a hoe she laughs with a +harvest.’ And the harvest is wonderful. +Commercially, the Nile is a fortune to Cairo. It is +estimated that if all the land watered by the Nile were +thoroughly cultivated, Egypt, for its size, would be one of the +richest countries in the world. Till the Cairo Waterworks +were established, the people of Cairo depended solely on the +water of the Nile; and in Cairo, as in Jerusalem, the +water-carrier is still to be seen, bearing on his back a large +black goatskin filled with water from the river. At the +Cairo railway-station he is always in evidence watering the +platform and keeping down the dust. The short legs of the +goat cut off at the knee stick out in a most grotesque manner +when the skin is full and round. The neck forms the spout, +and is held firmly in the left hand, to enable the carrier to +sprinkle the contents where <a name="page167"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 167</span>desired. The weight of some of +these large skins must be very considerable. The skins used +for wine are identical in form with these.</p> +<p>In ancient times there were near Cairo no less than seven +branches of the Nile; only two now remain. Very busy are +the people who have to do with the Nile in the vicinity of +Cairo. A large open space at the end of one of the bridges +is selected for the collection of the octroi duties levied upon +all food and produce entering the city. Here the fellaheen +assemble daily, with their camels and asses laden with produce, +or with droves of buffaloes and oxen, and flocks of sheep and +goats. The scene there is almost picturesque and +animated. Another bridge carried over a wide canal, which +forms an important backwater to the hill, connects the western +shore. From this point roads radiate north, west, and +south, each shaded by avenues of the acacia, so common in +Egypt. The Ghizeh road is the southern one, following the +course of the river, always alive with boats with large +triangular sails, always redolent of busy life.</p> +<p>Egypt without the Nile would be a desert. +‘Anyone,’ says old Herodotus, the father of history, +the truth of whose narrative every day becomes more apparent to +everyone who sees Egypt, without having heard a word about it +before, ‘must perceive, if he has only common powers of +observation, that the Egypt to which the Greeks go in their ships +is an acquired country, the gift of the Nile.’</p> +<p>The prosperity of the country depends upon its inundation: if +it should prove excessive, and becomes what is termed a high +Nile, towns and villages are sometimes swept away; if it should +not rise above a <a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +168</span>certain height, it is called a low Nile—a large +area will be left uncovered, and deficient crops will be the +result. Fortunately, a low Nile is of rare +occurrence. At one time, the only way of going up the Nile +was by the dahabeah, a kind of yacht fitted up for the +convenience of travellers, an expensive and dilatory mode of +conveyance. Now Mr. John Cook has a line of fine steamers, +and the Nile and the journey up and down is done as safely and +expeditiously as the trip by the <i>Clacton Belle</i> steamers up +and down the Thames. The voyage to Assouan and back is done +in three weeks. Facilities are afforded the traveller for +the extension of his voyage to the second cataract.</p> +<p>Of course, the ancient Egyptians worshipped the Nile. +Hapi, the god of the Nile, is represented wearing a cluster of +flowers on his head; he is coloured red and green, probably to +represent the colours of the water of the Nile immediately before +and just after the beginning of the inundation. An +illustration of this worship occurs upon a wall in Thebes, where +a priest, in his painted robe, is offering incense, while others +play on a harp, a guitar, and two reed pipes. This is the +song of one of the priests who lived 1,400 years before +Christ:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Adoration to the Nile! Hail, to thee, +O Nile! who manifesteth thyself over this land, and comest to +give life to Egypt; mysterious is the coming forth from the +darkness, watering the orchards created by Ra (the sun-god), to +cause all the cattle to live. Thou givest the earth to +drink, inexhaustible one. Thou createst the corn; thou +bringest forth the barley, causing the temples to keep +holiday. If thou ceasest thy toil and thy work, then all +that exists is in anguish. . . . None <a +name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span> +<a href="images/p169b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"A Tourist Streamer—Cook’s Nile Flotilla" +title= +"A Tourist Streamer—Cook’s Nile Flotilla" +src="images/p169s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>know +the place where he dwells; none discover his retreat by the aid +of a written spell. All is changed by the inundation. +It is a healing balm for all mankind. A festal song is +raised for the harp with the accompaniments of the hand,’ +etc.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In a valuable work on the Nile, written by Wallis Budge, +Acting Assistant Secretary in the department of Egyptian and +Assyrian Antiquities, British Museum, and published by Thomas +Cook and Son, we have a beautiful illustration of the practical +side of Egyptian theology, written by a scribe called Ani, who +gives his son advice for behaviour in all the varied scenes of +life. It is taken from one of the papyri in the Egyptian +Museum at Ghizeh:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘If a man cometh to seek thy counsel, let +this drive thee to look for information.</p> +<p>‘Enter not into the house of another; if a man asks thee +into his house, it is an honour for thee.</p> +<p>‘Spy not upon the acts of another from thy house.</p> +<p>‘Be not the first to enter or leave an assembly, that +thy name be not tarnished.</p> +<p>‘The sanctuary of God abhorreth noisy +declamations. Pray humbly, and with a loving heart whose +words are spoken silently; God will then protect thee, and hear +thy petitions, and accept thy offerings.</p> +<p>‘Consider what hath been. Set before thee a +correct rule of life as an example to follow. The messenger +of death will come to thee, as to others, to carry thee away; +yea, he standeth ready. Words will profit thee nothing, for +he cometh—he is ready. Say not, “I am a child; +wouldst thou in very truth bear me away?” Thou +knowest not how thou wilt die. Death cometh to meet the +babe at his mother’s <a name="page171"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 171</span>breast, even as he meeteth the old +man who hath finished his course.</p> +<p>‘Take heed with all diligence that thou woundest no man +with thy words.</p> +<p>‘Keep one faithful steward only and watch his deeds, and +let thy hand protect the man who hath charge of thy house and +property.</p> +<p>‘The man who hath received much and giveth little is as +one who committeth an injury.</p> +<p>‘Be not ungrateful to God, for He giveth thee +existence.</p> +<p>‘Sit not while another standeth, if he be older than +thou or if he is thy superior.</p> +<p>‘Whosoever speaketh evil receiveth no good.’</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +172</span>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE RETURN TO MARSEILLES.</p> +<p>What memories crowd on me as I step into the tug which is to +take me and the rest of us, in a confused mass, stowed away +amidst the luggage, to the Custom House at Marseilles, a fine, +handsome building, apparently in the very heart of the town, with +shipping of many nations all around; for has not Marseilles in +our time come to be the headquarters of all those who, fearing +the Bay of Biscay, have a mind to make their way along the +historic shores, and on the blue waters of the +Mediterranean? As I leave the Custom House, a friend says +to me: ‘I have soon got out. You see, there is +nothing lost by civility. I took my luggage to one of the +officers, took off my hat to him, and he came directly and let me +go through.’ I replied to the effect that I was more +successful, as I had been out a quarter of an hour before my +friend, and I never took off my hat, but simply held out my +Gladstone, which confirms me in my original idea, which, I +mention for the benefit of travellers, that the real secret of +getting one’s examination over is simply to have nothing +for the Custom House officer to search. <a +name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span> +<a href="images/p173b.jpg"> +<img class='clearcenter' alt= +"The New Harbour, Marseilles. From Cassell’s ‘Cities +of the World’" +title= +"The New Harbour, Marseilles. From Cassell’s ‘Cities +of the World’" +src="images/p173s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>Not +that I deprecate civility; the more I travel in France, the more +I appreciate it. We English are a grand people—there +are no better men on the face of the earth—but we might be +a little more civil to one another.</p> +<p>And now I am in Marseilles, a clean, handsome, flourishing +city, with an enormous population and an enormous trade; and +naturally I think of the time—now more than a century +ago—when the Marseillais set out for Paris. +‘The notablest of all the moving phenomena of that +time,’ writes Carlyle, ‘is that of Barbaroux’s +“six hundred Marseillais who know how to die.” +A black-browed mass, full of grim fire,’ got together no +one knows how—from the <i>forçats</i>, say +some. As they march through Lyons, the people shut their +shops in fear. ‘The Thought which works voiceless in +this black-browed mass, an inspired Tyrtæus, Colonel Rouget +de Lille, has translated into grim melody and rhythm; into his +Hymn or March of the Marseillaise: luckiest musical-competition +ever promulgated. The sound of which will make the blood +tingle in men’s veins; and whole Armies and Assemblages +will sing it, with eyes weeping and burning, with hearts defiant +of Death, Despot, and Devil.’</p> +<p>Marseilles is a far nobler city than it appears to the tourist +as he rushes from the train to catch the steamer waiting to bear +him far away. High above the city, on a precipitous rock, +from which you have a grand view of the place, and the harbour, +and the far-off Mediterranean, stands the old Cathedral of +Marseilles—Notre Dame de la Garde—a noble Romanesque +<a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span> +<a href="images/p175b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"Marseilles" +title= +"Marseilles" +src="images/p175s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +176</span>building, with a gilt figure of the Virgin at the top, +her arms extended as if to protect the city. You reach it +either by a winding road or a hydraulic lift, for the use of +which you pay a trifle. It was there the ancient +inhabitants kept watch over sea and land. In time a chapel +was erected on its site, which became a place of pilgrimage for +mariners and fishermen. The present magnificent building +was erected in 1864. If only for the view, the visitor is +well repaid for his trouble. Hardly can you enjoy a more +magnificent prospect, embracing the fair valley of the Rhone, the +white houses of Marseilles stretching up the plain, the gray +mountains of Spain in the far distance, the dazzling blue of the +Gulf of Lyons, the dark towers of the fort, with the rocky, +picturesque islands, with the Château d’If, whence, +according to Dumas, Monte Cristo made his marvellous escape, +beyond. In the city itself, on a hill, whence you have also +a fine view, is a grand new cathedral of imposing form and +structure. It was Sunday when I visited it; but there were +not many people in it, though more in the heart of the city, +where I tried to enter a church, it was so crowded that there +really was no standing-room. But even in Marseilles you +must be cautious when the east wind blows. It was there Dr. +Punshon, the greatest Wesleyan orator of our time, caught the +cold which laid the foundation of the illness that ultimately +carried him off.</p> +<p>It has a very ancient history, this noble city of +Marseilles. It owes its origin to a tribe of Ionian Greeks, +who, about 600 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, there founded a +town that ultimately became the head of a Roman province. +In the contest between Pompey and Cæsar, the town <a +name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>wished to +remain neutral, but Cæsar had need of gold, vessels, and +harbours, and scrupled not for a moment to lay siege to it, which +was maintained against him during the whole of his long and +severe warfare with Afranius and Petreius in Spain, and was not +taken till after the capture or dispersion of their +legions. The treatment of the town was so merciless, that +from thenceforward, by Strabo’s account, it only preserved +vestiges of its former prosperity and wealth. However, +Marseilles in time recovered from the blow, and chiefly by means +of the book trade. It seems to have become a miniature +Athens. France was especially distinguished by its aptitude +and zeal for Roman learning. At Marseilles there was an +institution for Greek education and literature, which was +visited, even in preference to Athens, by men of the highest +rank. A large institution of the same kind existed at +Autun, and Tacitus calls that city the principal seat of Latin +culture. With respect to the book trade of Lyons, we have +the testimony of the younger Pliny, when he states that he +learned, with some surprise, from a friend that his own +discourses and writings were publicly sold there.</p> +<p>In the time of the Crusades Marseilles became a busy +place. It is now wholly given up to trade, and flourishes +accordingly. Since 1850 it has become the head +packet-station on the Mediterranean, and more and more frequented +by English passengers, who can stay at gorgeous hotels, or more +economical ones, according to the state of their finances. +If they only stop the day, they cannot do better than dine at the +buffet attached to the railway-station, unless they wish to +partake of the famous <i>bouillabaisse</i> of which Thackeray +sung, and <a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +178</span>to which my friend—my lamented +friend—George Augustus Sala, devoted many a learned +paragraph in his ‘Table Talk’ in the <i>Illustrated +London News</i> and elsewhere. Woe is me! I quite +forgot all about it till just as I had to take the train to carry +me away. I shall never cease to regret that forgetfulness +on my part. It may be that I may live to repair it!</p> +<p>There was a time when this delicious delicacy could be had in +Paris. Some of us can still remember Thackeray’s +beautiful ballad:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘A street there is in Paris famous,<br /> + For which no rhyme our language yields;<br /> +Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is,<br /> + The New Street of the Little Fields.</p> +<p>‘And here’s our wish, not rich and splendid,<br /> + But still in comfortable ease,<br /> +The which in youth I oft attended<br /> + To eat a bowl of <i>bouillabaise</i>.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But Marseilles lives on other things than its +<i>bouillabaisse</i>—a rich soup or stew of all sorts of +fish—not to be flippantly eaten, not to be lightly +forgotten. Some 2,000 vessels fill its capacious +harbour. In its lofty bonded warehouses are stored away the +merchandise of many climes, and its soap-works and +sugar-refineries are on an extensive scale. In short, it is +the Liverpool of France; but, alas for the pride of the Mersey, +how much cleaner, brighter, grander! how much purer the smokeless +atmosphere! how much lovelier the outlook over sea and +land! It was there that in 1797 that great French +statesman, M. Adolphe Thiers, was born. That acute judge of +men and books, Abraham Hayward, who was at Paris before Thiers +had risen, as he did at a later time, describes him, in <a +name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>1844, as +‘a little, insignificant man, till he gets animated, but +wonderfully clever.’</p> +<p>The one drawback to Marseilles, the only cloud in its blue +sky, is the drink; and I am glad to find that there is a good man +there, Pastor Lenoir, who has taken up temperance work, and has +carried it on very successfully. Last year, for a novelty, +in Marseilles he got up a temperance fête, which was a +great success. During the last twenty years drinking has +greatly increased, and the drink-shops as well. In 1876 +there were in Marseilles 2,460 drink-shops; now there are +4,205—far too many, when we remember that the town has only +600 bakers’ shops and only 500 schools. As a +consequence, Dr. Rey shows that insanity has greatly increased, +and that in the hospital of St. Pierre the proportion of insane +patients whose disease can be traced to alcohol has increased +from 15 per cent. to 31 per cent. of the patients admitted. +‘The chief factor,’ he writes, ‘of these mental +diseases is alcohol, and especially when to its intoxicating +effects is added that of absinthe, and other vegetable substances +which produce epilepsy and other similar evils.’ In +this respect, Marseilles teaches us a lesson which it is well to +remember at home.</p> +<p>In another way Marseilles is a lesson in favour of temperance +work. In the district of Villette the drinking classes +chiefly dwell. It is a narrow, dirty court, opening on a +series of alleys; in the centre runs an open gutter—the +only drainage of the place—while on either side are small +one-storied houses, called <i>cabanons</i>, let for about eight +shillings a month. They are let to the poorest of the poor, +and abound with dirt and large families and drunkenness; the +three in <a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +180</span>France, as in England, generally go hand in hand. +The air is stifling, the odours insupportable; and when the sun +pours down in the middle of summer, and the hot sirocco-like wind +blows, the condition of matters is unbearable. As I write I +see the people of Marseilles, in fear of the plague, will not +permit travellers from the East, under any pretence whatever, to +land there. They had much better look at home, and reform +their own sanitary arrangements in such districts as +Villette. It is there the good Protestant pastor, +connected, I believe, with the McAll Mission in Paris, labours +unweariedly with a band of fellow labourers as devoted as +himself. I give the story of one of his rescued men, as an +illustration of labour-life in the fair city of Marseilles:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘Thibaut is a strong, muscular man, who +worked as a docker, and could carry 140 kilos of wool on his +shoulders from six o’clock to twelve o’clock without +taking rest. He was an inveterate drunkard, and had on one +occasion swallowed <i>thirty-five glasses of absinthe</i>, +<i>raw</i>, <i>in a day</i>. For thirty years he had never +set foot in a church, and his wife had died from the effects of +his ill-treatment. Once, in a fit of drunkenness, he threw +all that was left of furniture in their miserable home into the +street, including the stove, which was alight, and on which their +bit of dinner was cooking. He dragged his wife when ill +from her bed by her hair, and threw her into the street. +The day of her death he was found drunk in a public-house, and he +followed the remains to the grave reeling. He lived in the +famous “Grand Salon,” in a miserable hut of planks, +the most filthy hovel imaginable. Thibaut was not +over-scrupulous as to how he got the drink, without <a +name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>which he +could not exist. There are many ways in which a docker can +steal from the cargoes he discharges without being found +out. For instance, there is a way of letting fall a case of +wine or cognac, so as to break one bottle, the contents of which +then can be quickly absorbed. Like most French workmen, he +wore trousers very baggy at the top, and tied round the +ankles. Such trousers can be made to hold about four pounds +of tea or coffee, or such like, and many a time Thibaut has +walked past the searchers at the dock-gates with his stock of +groceries, and has never been detected.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>He was nearly falling a victim to his drunken habits more than +once. They are now rejoicing over him at Marseilles, for he +that was dead is now alive again. The lost one is +found.</p> +<p>If the traveller has time to spare, let him by all means pay +Arles a visit, where there is a fine Roman amphitheatre, or +rather the remains of one. Very early Arles became +distinguished in Church history—I was going to say +Christian history; but, alas, at that time the bitter disputes +and dissensions in the Church bore little traces of the teachings +or the example of Christ. In <span +class="smcap">a.d.</span> 314, when, as Gibbon writes, +Constantine was the protector, rather than the proselyte of +Christianity, he referred the African controversy to the Council +of Arles, in which the Bishops of York, of Treves, of Milan, and +of Carthage, met as friends and brethren to debate, in their +native tongue, on the common interests of the Latin or Western +Church. One ancient writer says there were 600 bishops +there, but this is probably an exaggerated account of their +number. The subject, of course, was the nature of <a +name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>the +Trinity, the discussions on which, inflamed with passion, had +filled the Churches with fury, and sedition, and schism—a +fury which excites the wonder of the modern less heated Christian +Church.</p> +<p>It was at Arles, at a later period, Constantine repaired to +celebrate in its palace, with intemperate luxury, a vain and +ostentatious triumph—his military success against the +Goths. It was at Arles, the seat at that time of government +and commerce, <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 418, that the +Emperor Honorius, in a solemn address, filled with the strongest +assurances of that paternal affection which, as Gibbon writes, +sovereigns so often express but rarely feel, convened an annual +assembly consisting of the Pretorian Prefect of the Gauls; of +seven provincial governors, one consular and six presidents; of +the magistrates, and perhaps the bishops, of sixty cities; and of +an indefinite number of leading landed proprietors. They +were empowered to interpret the laws of their sovereign, to +expose the wishes and grievances of their constituents, to +moderate the excessive or unequal weight of taxes, and to +deliberate on every subject of local and national importance that +would tend to the restoration of peace and prosperity to the +seven provinces. It was a step in the right +direction. It was a step that might have tended, if +universally followed, at any rate, to retard the decay and +decline of the Roman Empire. But the Emperor found that the +people were not ready to accept the proffered boon. A fine +of three, or even five, ounces of gold was imposed on the absent +representatives. Honorius was in advance of his +age—in politics as great a blunder as being behind +it. It was not till centuries of oppression and +misgovernment that the rights of man were <a +name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>practically +won for France, and that Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity became +the watchwords of the people.</p> +<p>Arles was very early peopled by a colony from Central Italy, +and very remarkable is the physique of its inhabitants. The +late Lord Malmesbury, Lord Derby’s Minister of Foreign +Affairs, writes: ‘The women are remarkably handsome, but +entirely of the Etruscan type, with magnificent dark hair and +eyes, good teeth, and fair complexions. They have beautiful +round throats, set on fine shoulders and busts, but their legs +are much too short for their general build.’ I am, of +course, not a judge of such matters, and I prefer to copy from +Lord Malmesbury, who, as a Foreign Minister and a frequent guest +both at the Courts of England and France, and a high-born +aristocrat as well, had opportunities for the pleasing study of +woman far superior to any possessed by an ordinary scribe. +He had a good opportunity of seeing the population, as it was a +fête day when he favoured the city with his presence. +He continues: ‘There were games in the square, such as +climbing a greased pole for a leg of mutton placed at the top, +which no one succeeded in winning. The women were all in +costume, with black veils, worn like the mantilla. I +noticed that the men were remarkably plain, sallow, under-sized +and narrow-chested—in every way a remarkable contrast to +the women.’ As indeed they are, or ought to be, all +the world over.</p> +<p>In the neighbourhood is a hermit’s cell, very curiously +contrived in the rock, where there was a secret way of escaping +to the deeper recesses and hiding in case of danger. There +was the stone bed of the hermit who is said to have been the +first to introduce Christianity <a name="page184"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 184</span>into the province. His name is +held in high esteem and a church is dedicated to his +memory. It was upon the plains adjoining that Charles +Martel gained his final victory over the Saracens. The +Roman amphitheatre in Arles is in a fine state of preservation, +with towers added in the Middle Ages.</p> +<p>Soldiers have a mission hall to themselves in Marseilles, +which is full of them, and to the hall many come for peace and +light. The aggregate attendance is set down at nearly +6,000. The hall offers them a warm, comfortable room, well +lighted, with books, games, newspapers, and other +conveniences. A lady gives them elementary lessons in +French, arithmetic, reading, and writing. When the soldiers +sailed to Madagascar they took with them, in spite of the +priests, 3,000 copies of the New Testament. The labours of +the agents of the McAll Mission are numerous and +persevering. Last year they held about 500 meetings for +adults. They have five schools for children, besides two +sewing schools for girls. There are three mothers’ +meetings, with a fair attendance, and a mission choir does good +work.</p> +<p>Of more recent formation, and perhaps less well known, is the +Society of Christian Endeavour. It has given proof of its +existence in various ways. It was the Endeavourers who +organized four series of lectures, of three each, which were +given in the halls of the Grand Chemin de Toulon and the +Boulevard de Strasbourg. Friends were much encouraged to +see each time a large and attentive audience; the lectures had +been announced by means of handbills distributed in profusion +throughout the district. The society takes charge also of +the visitation of the sick, and the <a name="page185"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 185</span>distribution of tracts in the +suburbs, at the gates of the factories and workshops, etc. +Some of the sisters have taken to heart the work among fallen +women, and in one case, at least, they have been able to snatch +one of these poor creatures from her life of sin, and place her +in a neighbouring refuge. And so good work gets done, +quietly and unobtrusively.</p> +<p>There were put in circulation last year through the Librairie +Evangélique 12,000 almanacks, 4,500 Bibles and Testaments, +1,000 tracts, 1,000 books of various kinds, and 600 copies of the +<i>Relévement</i>. Open Bibles and Testaments are +constantly displayed also in the large shop-window, where the +passers-by can stop and read at their leisure—a thing which +a goodly number of them do not fail to do. Nor are the +Italians, of whom there are many in the town, overlooked. +But I pass on</p> +<blockquote><p>‘To kinder skies, where gentler manners +reign,<br /> +I turn, and France displays her bright domain;<br /> +Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease,<br /> +Pleased with thyself whom all the world can please.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And pleasant recollections come to us of Oliver Goldsmith, +who, as he tells us, oft led</p> + +<blockquote><p> ‘The +sportive choir<br /> +With tuneless pipe beside the murmuring Loire.’</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The traveller who does as the writer did—leaves the +train at Marseilles, and travels home slowly, will find as much +pleasure in that little trip as in any part of his pilgrimage to +the East.</p> +<h2><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +186</span>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">AVIGNON.</p> +<p>Leaving Marseilles, the place at which I tarried next was +Avignon, where I had comfortable and cheap quarters at the +Hôtel Grillon. It was there I saw the only drunken +man that came under my notice in France. It was market-day, +and the town was full of country-folk, many of whom came to my +hotel for the excellent <i>déjeuner</i> provided for +guests; amongst then was an individual—not a farmer, for he +did not wear a blouse—who managed, in spite of the fact +that he had had quite enough, to consume the quart bottle of +<i>vin ordinaire</i> which, in French country hotels, every one +is supposed to take at lunch and drink. The allowance was +too much for me. The lunch in every case was so excellent +and tempting that I could not manage another heavy meal, and was +glad to content myself with tea. One thing surprised me at +all the country hotels, and that was the predominance of the +military element. At every meal there were great numbers of +officers present, and, so far as I could judge by the way in +which these sons of Mars did justice to the good things provided, +all in first-rate physical condition. <a +name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>Avignon is +full of soldiers—we met them everywhere. All round +the place the old walls seemed turned into barracks.</p> +<p>I stopped at Avignon to see the burial-place of John Stuart +Mill. He was fond of Avignon, and spent a great deal of his +life there. I am afraid, on the whole, he was rather a +hard, cold man. He had a sister living in Paris, but, often +as he passed through it, he never went to see her. I +suppose he had learnt a good deal from Godwin’s +‘Political Justice,’ which had a great influence at +one time among superior people, I remember, when I read it many +years ago. You never see the book now. Godwin shows +how wrong is the indulgence of social and family affection. +Perhaps the philosopher’s way of looking at such things is +the right one, after all. As I was sitting with a friend, a +philosopher, on board the <i>Midnight Sun</i>, a gentleman, to +whom we were neither of us particularly attached, passed +us. ‘I think I could save that man’s +life,’ I said. ‘Why should you?’ he +asked; ‘ought we not to think of the greatest happiness of +the greatest number?’ The reply was irresistible, and +I acquiesced. ‘Is it not the survival of the +fittest,’ I asked myself, ‘that best accords with +Nature’s scheme? “If,” says Godwin, +“you are in a boat with your father and a philosopher, and +you meet with an accident, you are to save the philosopher and +leave your father to perish.”’</p> +<p>Mill’s philosophy seems to have been of a similar +character. At any rate, his sister’s husband +complained much, to an acquaintance of mine, of the +philosopher’s neglect. But his worship of Mrs. +Taylor, who afterwards became his wife, was intense. They +<a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>sleep +together in the same grave in the cemetery, a mile or two out of +Avignon. On the tomb is the inscription: ‘John Stuart +Mill, born 20 May, 1806, died 4 May, 1873,’ and that is +all. On the surface of the tomb—a plain white flat +one—is a long eulogium of his wife, who had died before +him. Her influence, the inscription records, has been felt +in many of the greatest improvements of the age, and will be felt +in time to come. Following her life, we are told, this +earth would become the type of heaven. Her death is +described as ‘an irreparable loss.’ The grave +is separated by an iron rail from the rest, and is fringed with a +few evergreens. It is plain and simple, and certainly much +more in accordance with English taste than the rest.</p> +<p>One should visit the cemetery, if only to see what a French +cemetery is—all glitter and glass, for many of the flowers +placed on the tombs are under glass, and the place was quite +dazzling in the summer—or, rather, the +autumn—sun. The ground is carefully laid out, and +well planted with trees and flowering shrubs. It seems to +me of considerable extent, and people come there every day to +place fresh flowers on the graves of those they love. It +was early in the morning when I was there, yet a good many ladies +were engaged in their pious work. By most of the graves +were chairs placed for the mourners, who love to repair to such a +place. It is evident that family affection is strong in +France.</p> +<p>Avignon, I should think, is a pleasant place in which to +reside, with its mild atmosphere and a nice country all +round. There is a broad promenade (if a short one), with a +monument to a native worthy, and trees; <a +name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span> +<a href="images/p189b.jpg"> +<img class='floatleft' alt= +"The Castle of the Popes, Avignon. From Cassell’s +‘Cities of the World.’" +title= +"The Castle of the Popes, Avignon. From Cassell’s +‘Cities of the World.’" +src="images/p189s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>but +away in the interior the streets are narrow and +ill-fashioned. It boasts a cathedral, a museum, and an +Hôtel de Ville, and tramcars run backward and forward all +day long. In the early days of the French Revolution it was +all for union and the ‘Contrat Social’ of the worthy +Jean Jacques Rousseau; and yet it burst forth with its 15,000 +brave brigands, headed by Jourdain. In 1789 the French +Assembly declared that Avignon and the Comtat were incorporated +with France, and that His Holiness the Pope should say what +indemnity was reasonable.</p> +<p>‘Papal Avignon,’ writes Carlyle, in his wonderful +‘French Revolution,’ ‘with its castle rising +sheer over the Rhone-stream; beautifullest town, with its purple +vines and gold-orange groves; why must foolish old rhyming +Réné, the last sovereign of Provence, bequeath it +to the Pope and gold tiara—not rather to Louis XI. with the +Leaden Virgin in his hatband? For good and for evil! +Popes, Antipopes, with their pomp, have dwelt in the Castle of +Avignon rising sheer over the Rhone-stream; there Laura de Sade +went to hear Mass; her Petrarch twanging and singing by the +Fountain of Vaucluse hard by, surely in a most melancholy +manner.’</p> +<p>Speaking of Petrarch, naturally one’s thoughts turn to +Rienzi, the Italian liberator, who fell because the Roman people +were not at that time prepared for freedom. +‘When,’ writes Lord Lytton, in his splendid novel, +‘Rienzi,’ ‘the capital of the Cæsars +witnessed the triumph of Petrarch, the scholastic fame of the +young Rienzi had attracted the friendship of the poet—a +friendship that continued, with a slight exception, to the +last.’</p> +<p><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +191</span>Rienzi was one of the Roman deputies who had been sent +to Avignon to supplicate Clement VI. to remove the Holy See back +to Rome. It was on this mission that Rienzi for the first +time gave indication of his extraordinary power of eloquence and +persuasion. The pontiff, indeed, more desirous of ease than +glory, was not convinced by the arguments, but he was enchanted +with the pleader, and Rienzi returned to Rome laden with honours +and clothed with the dignity of high and responsible +office. No longer the inactive scholar, the gay companion, +he rose at once to pre-eminence amongst all his +fellow-citizens. Never before had authority been borne with +so austere an integrity, so uncorrupt a zeal. He had +thought to impregnate his colleagues with the same loftiness of +principle, but in this respect he had failed. Now, secure +in his footing, he had begun openly to appeal to the people, and +already a new spirit seemed to animate the populace of +Rome. According to modern historians, Petrarch and Rienzi +went to Avignon together, but, says Lord Lytton, it was more +probable that Rienzi’s mission was posterior to that of +Petrarch. However that may be, it was at Avignon that +Petrarch and Rienzi became most intimate, as Petrarch observes in +one of his letters. Perhaps it would have been better for +Italy and better for the Roman Catholic Church had they never +returned to Rome. If the reader doubts this, let him read +Zola’s ‘Rome.’ It was in 1309 that +Clement moved his Court thither, and for sixty-eight years, until +1377, Avignon continued to be the Papal residence. The six +successors of Clement V., all of them Frenchmen, like himself, +were regarded by the Italians with feelings of dislike <a +name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>and +contempt. They were little more than the ecclesiastical +agents of the French monarchy.</p> +<p>The climax in the history of Avignon was reached when, in +1309, Clement V. removed thither from Rome, and made Avignon the +seat of the Roman Pontiff and the metropolis of +Christendom. By land, by sea, by the Rhone—the +position of Avignon, writes Gibbon, was at all times +accessible—the southern provinces of France do not yield to +Italy itself; new palaces arose for the accommodation of the Pope +and Cardinals, and the arts of luxury were soon attracted by the +treasures of the Church. A part of the adjoining country +had long belonged to the Popes, and the sovereignty of Avignon +was purchased from the youth and distress of Jane, the first +Queen of Naples and Countess of Provence.</p> +<p>Under the shadow of the French monarchy, amidst an obedient +people, the Popes enjoyed a tranquillity to which they had long +been strangers. Italy deplored their loss, but the Sacred +College was filled with French Cardinals, who regarded Rome and +Italy with abhorrence and contempt. What remains of the +Papal Palace is now turned into barracks, of which you get a good +view from the station as you leave for Lyons or Paris. Dr. +Arnold, who paid it a passing visit, was struck with horror by +the sight of its dungeons. From Avignon the Pope prosecuted +a bitter persecution of his neighbours, the Waldenses. The +King of France was alarmed, and sent an officer to inquire into +the matter. The report was favourable. +‘Then,’ said the King, ‘they are much better +Christians than myself or Catholic subjects, and therefore they +shall not be persecuted.’ He was as good as his <a +name="page193"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 193</span>word, and +the Pope at Avignon had for a time to forbear, or Avignon might +have had as bloody a record as Rome itself. But at Avignon +they do not think of these things. All round the old city +are the mulberry trees and the silkworms; and the farmers want +protection for their native industry, and to keep foreign raw +silk out of the market.</p> +<h2><a name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +194</span>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">THE GREAT CITY OF LYONS.</p> +<p>In one of the first books which used to be placed in the hands +of young people when I was a lad—Fox’s ‘Book of +Martyrs’—we get rather an unpleasant idea of +Lyons. ‘There,’ writes old Fox, ‘the +martyrs were condemned to sit in iron chains till their flesh +broiled. Some were sewn up in nets and thrown on the horns +of wild bulls, and the carcases of those who died in prison +previous to the time of execution were thrown to dogs. +Indeed, so far did the malice of pagans proceed that they set +guards over the bodies while the beasts were devouring them, lest +the friends of the deceased should get them by stealth, and the +offal not devoured by the dogs was ordered to be +burnt.’ After this we get a little indignant as we +turn to Gibbon, and read of the mild and beneficent spirit of the +ancient polytheism, which seems to find such favour in his +eyes. To-day all is changed. Christians, in the shape +of Roman Catholics, have it all their own way; yet one of the +handsomest places of worship I saw was that of the Reformed +Church. One of the earliest reformers, Waldo, the leader of +the Albigenses, was born at Lyons.</p> +<p><a name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 195</span>The +McAll Mission is doing a good work at Lyons, though in some +districts they have to report a falling off. They seek to +get hold of the children, but they find in this respect the +priests are as active as themselves. By means of the +<i>œuvres de patronage</i> founded by the Catholics many of +the children are drawn away. In one of the immense remote +suburbs of Lyons the mothers’ meeting plays an important +part in the work of evangelization. In many quarters +Bible-readings have been found to be very successful, and there +is a Y.M.C.A., to which many young men belong. As a rule, +French Protestantism is not aggressive, else it would not be what +it is to-day. Still, during the last few years the churches +have waked up wonderfully, and much good has been the +result. Be this as it may, Lyons is the finest city next to +Paris that France can boast of. It has a population of +about half a million, and the Rhone runs through it, adding much +to its picturesqueness, as its banks are lined with stately +houses and offices and shops. There are some twenty bridges +over the river, most of them very handsome. At night you +seem a little lonely as you watch the long rows of lamps that +glitter along the banks. But by day the picture is +reversed: there is busy life everywhere, and so clean and +handsome are the buildings that you can scarcely realize that +Lyons is planted with silk-mills, and that, in fact, it is the +centre of the great silk trade of France. The trees, +planted everywhere on the quays, which are used as promenades, +make it a very charming residence.</p> +<p>Lyons has a very ancient history. It was adorned by +successive Roman Emperors, and became the capital of Gaul. +It was the principal mart for the <a name="page196"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 196</span>Western provinces of the +Empire. Agrippa made it the starting-point for four great +military roads that traversed Gaul. Suddenly it +disappeared. As Seneca writes: ‘There was but one +night between a great city and nothing.’ Aided by +Nero, however, it speedily rose from its ashes. The city +fared badly in the decline and fall of the Roman Empire. +Alaric, the scourge of God, sacked it. In 571 the Lombards +ravaged it; in 715 the Saracens appeared, and left it a heap of +ruins. Under Charlemagne it became a city of light and +learning. Towards the end of the ninth century it came +under the rule of the Archbishops and Chapter of St. John. +In 1312 Philip le Bel annexed the city to France. The Lyons +of to-day is a stately city, splendidly situated at the junction +of the Rhone and the Saone—a junction which gave the great +Pitt a fine passage in one of his finest speeches.</p> +<p>The Lyonnais, says the writer of an excellent account of Lyons +in Cassell’s ‘Cities of the World,’ think the +Place Bellecour the finest square in Europe. It is planted +with trees, and ornamented with basins and fountains and two +elegant pavilions, and is a very favourite promenade of the +people of Lyons, especially when the military band plays. +According to some, the name is derived from <i>bella curia</i>, +and denotes the site of a Roman tribunal. In the Middle +Ages the Place was a muddy swamp, often covered by the waters of +the Rhone; it was gradually drained and improved by the +Consulate, and surrounded with fine buildings. After the +Peace of Utrecht, a bronze statue of Louis le Grand—the +King who, by revoking the Edict of Nantes, nearly ruined Lyons, +to please the Maintenon and her Jesuit <a +name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span> +<a href="images/p197b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The Place Belleour, Lyons. (From Cassell’s ‘Cities +of the World.’)" +title= +"The Place Belleour, Lyons. (From Cassell’s ‘Cities +of the World.’)" +src="images/p197s.jpg" /> +</a><a name="page198"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +198</span>friends—was set up in the centre. At the +Revolution of 1792 the statue was pulled down and broken +up. Some proposed simply to replace the King’s head +with a head of Brutus, but the multitude would not hear of +it. On this spot perished some of the first victims of the +fusillade in the terrible siege by the Republican army in the +following year. When the siege was over, Couthon set his +troop of <i>démolisseurs</i> to work, and the beautiful +façades of the Place Bellecour were soon irretrievably +ruined, and the subsequent erections have not reproduced the +monumental character of the original buildings. The Place +was still covered with débris when, in April, 1805, the +populace of the city, upon their knees, received the blessing of +Pope Pius VII., who was then in France as the half-guest, +half-prisoner, of Napoleon. On March 11, 1815, the Orleans +princes hastened from the town as the advance guard of Napoleon, +returning from Elba, was crossing the Pont de la +Guillotière. On the morrow the Emperor reviewed +15,000 soldiers in the Place Bellecour, amidst the acclamations +of the populace. But the Empire passed away, and in 1825 +the restored King placed a second statue of Louis XIV. in the +centre of the Place.</p> +<p>Churches abound in Lyons. One of them, that of St. +Nizien, in memory of a bishop of that name, is placed on the spot +where one of its martyr bishops, St. Pothinus, assembled his +flock. It has been rebuilt many times, and is interesting +not only as the cradle of Christianity in Lyons—it was also +the cradle of its civil liberty. Here the growing commune +met in the days of its resistance to the bishops, and the bell of +the ancient tower used to call the citizens together to elect <a +name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 199</span>their +magistrate. Near the Church of Ainay was the ancient Forum, +where Greeks, Orientals, Africans, Gauls, and Spaniards met to +exchange the products of their various commerce. In the +Forum was an altar dedicated to the Emperor Augustus and Rome, +and near it was the Temple of Augustus. In the church was +sacredly preserved some hair of the Virgin Mary, and part of the +cradle and some of the swaddling clothes of our Saviour. In +the western part of the city, beyond the Saone, are found some +very interesting churches. St. Irénée was +built by the Bishop St. Patient in the fifth century. In +the crypt is a well into which, according to tradition, the +bodies of 19,000 Christians were thrown when the Emperor Severus +revenged himself on Lyons for its adherence to the cause of +Albinus. Nearer to the river stands the Church of St. +Just. In connection with it was a vast monastery, with +massive walls and towers. In its cloisters many sovereigns +found a safe asylum. Innocent IV. was one, another was the +Regent Louise, while her son Francis I. was fighting in Italy, +and here she received the famous letter after the Battle of +Pavia: ‘All is lost except honour.’</p> +<p>Still nearer to the river stands the Church of St. Jean +Baptiste, the Cathedral of Lyons. In one of the chapels +attached to the church was some wood of the true cross; in +another is preserved the heart of St. Vincent de Paul. The +Chapter of the Cathedral of Lyons was the most important body of +clergy in France; they were thirty-two in number, all Counts of +Lyons, the rank of Premier Canon being held by the reigning King +of France. Amongst the remarkable events that have occurred +here was the Council <a name="page200"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 200</span>General of 1245, when Innocent IV. +hurled the thunders of the Church against Frederick II., and +where, for the first time, the Cardinals wore the red dress to +distinguish them from other prelates. In 1274 a Council +General held here formed a short-lived union of the Latin and +Greek Churches. In this church Henry II., Emperor of +Germany, performed mass, in one of his efforts to desert his +throne and take Holy Orders. And here, in 1600, Henry of +Navarre renewed his marriage with Marie de Medicis. Close +by is the Archiepiscopal Palace, the magnificent apartments of +which have accommodated many kings and queens and eminent +personages. Napoleon passed a night here on his return from +Elba. On that awful St. Bartholomew’s Day, in the +courtyard of the Palace, 300 Protestants were murdered.</p> +<p>Thence you ascend by steep and narrow steps to the Church of +Notre Dame, on the hill of St. Fourvières. All round +are priestly residences and numerous shop for the sale of +ecclesiastical millinery. Higher up are the merchants who +deal in rosaries, devotional pictures, medals, and wax models of +different parts of the body, for offerings in the church, when +the time comes for the multitudes of pilgrims who throng thither +to obtain pardon of sin and restoration of health. One +would have thought that an anachronism in the France of to-day; +but we know how credulity reigns rampant, in spite of the +philosopher, in every nation in the world. It was our +Thomas à Becket, who spent part of an exile in Lyons, who +seems to have suggested a church on this spot. In 1643 +Lyons was ravaged by a terrible pest, and the municipality +dedicated Lyons to Notre Dame in perpetuity, and until <a +name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 201</span>the +Revolution of 1789 the whole city celebrated, on the Feast of the +Nativity, the anniversary of the event. Pope Pius, in 1805, +superintended the rededication of the building to Divine worship, +and, amidst a grand display of flags, discharge of cannon, and +ringing of bells from the summit of the hill, blessed the city of +Lyons, as Innocent had done centuries before. In December, +1852, Lyons was <i>en fête</i> day and night, on the +occasion of the planting of a colossal statue of the Virgin on +the top of the tower. Like ancient Ephesus, it lived on its +saints. Happily, unlike Ephesus, it stuck to trade, and +became wealthy, and populous, and great. The Quai de St. +Clair is the finest in Lyons, and was formerly the rendezvous of +merchants and foreigners, and the centre of Lyonese trade. +One of the many quays in Lyons, that known as Les Etroit, a +charming promenade, is associated with the memory of Rousseau, in +the days of his youthful poverty.</p> +<p>Its modern Hôtel de Ville is held to be one of the +handsomest in Europe, and that is saying a great deal when we +think of Brussels or Louvain. Its cathedral of St. Jean +Baptiste took three centuries to build. The city is one of +the Roman Catholic strongholds, and to some of its churches +resort every year as many as 1,500,000 pilgrims, who obtain +similar privileges to those accorded to the devotees at +Loretto.</p> +<p>Now that Lyons is at peace, it exports to England, America, +and Russia, manufactured silks to the amount of £18,000,000 +yearly. It is to Jacquard that it owes its silk +manufacture, and a statue of him properly graces the city. +For many years it had been renowned for its manufactures, but in +1802, a workman originally, Jacquard lived to revolutionize <a +name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 202</span>the silk +trade, and laid the foundation of its present prosperity. +Its workshops for the construction of machinery, its +manufactories of chemical products and coloured papers, are +justly celebrated; but it is from the production of its silk +fabrics that Lyons derives its chief fame. This industry, +in which Lyons has no rival, was first brought from Italy. +Florentines, Genoese, and others, driven away by revolutions, did +for France what in after-times expatriated Frenchmen did for +other countries to which they were compelled to flee by reason of +tyranny at home. By decree of Louis XI., experienced +workmen settling at Lyons were exempt from taxes levied on other +inhabitants. Twelve thousand silk-weavers were busy at work +in Lyons by the middle of the sixteenth century. At the +Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, it seemed as if the silk +industry was about to be annihilated. More than +three-fourths of the looms were silenced; but in the course of a +couple of generations the industry resumed its former +proportions, and steadily increased, till Lyons became <i>par +excellence</i> the city of beautiful silks. The Lyonnese +silk-weavers mostly work in their own dwellings. A man with +his family will keep from two to six or eight looms going, often +employing journeymen. The silk-merchants of Lyons, about +600 in number, supply the patterns and the silk; there are about +40,000 looms at work in the city and in the vicinity. +Formerly, the weavers were nearly all grouped together in the +northern part of the city, but the employers, in order to lessen +the influence of the close trade organizations, have succeeded in +distributing the industry throughout the neighbouring villages, +though La Croix-Rousse <a name="page203"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 203</span>still holds the lion’s +share. Its silks still maintain their prestige. The +Empress of Germany last year purchased at Lyons white silk, with +flowers, birds, and foliage in relief, at twenty-five pounds a +yard, five-sixths of the price being the actual value of the raw +silk. She intended to have a dress made of it, but it was +so beautiful that she used it for a curtain. This is +believed to be the highest priced silk goods ever made. +Louis XIV. paid twelve pounds a yard for the cloth-of-gold +material of which his dressing-gown was made. Lyons has +been the birthplace of many distinguished and illustrious +personages—Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius and Marcus +Aurelius, the philosopher-king; the ruler who preferred the +solitude of the student to the splendour of the palace; the +soldier who loved the arts of peace better than the glory of war; +who left to the world his ‘Meditations,’ which, even +at this era of the world’s history, it does us good to +read. Another native of Lyons whose works were at one time +much read in England was J. B. Say, the famous political +writer. Another of the modern glories of Lyons was Louise +Labé, the Lyons Sappho, surnamed La Belle +Cordière. Another was Roland, the great statesman, +the husband of a yet more illustrious wife. Irenæus, +Bishop of Lyons, was one of the victims of what Fox terms the +fifth general persecution, and it is generally supposed that the +account of the persecution in Lyons was written by him. He +was beheaded in <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 202.</p> +<p>‘Lyons,’ says the Guide-Book, ‘embraced with +ardour the cause of the Revolution, and it suffered frightfully +in consequence; but the Patriots knew nothing of the dark days to +come, as they formed <a name="page204"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 204</span>one bright May morning the +Federation of Lyons, in which some fifty or sixty thousand of its +citizens took part. What a picture Carlyle gives us of the +Lyons guardsmen meeting at five on the Quai de Rhone, marching +thence to the Federation Field, amid waving of hats and +ladies’ handkerchiefs, great shoutings of some two hundred +thousand patriot voices and hearts—the beautiful and brave! +‘amongst whom, courting no notice, and yet notablest of +all, what queen-like figure is this, with her escort of house +friends and Champagneux, the Patriot editor? Radiant with +enthusiasm are those dark eyes in that strong Minerva face, +looking dignity and earnest joy—joy-fullest she where all +is joyful! It is Roland de Platière’s wife; +that elderly Roland, King’s inspector of manufactures here, +and now likewise, by popular choice, the strictest of our new +Lyons Municipals—a man who has gained much, if worth and +faculty be gain; but, above all things, has gained to wife +Philipon, the Paris engraver’s daughter. Reader, mark +that queen-like burgher woman, beautiful, graceful to the eye, +much more so to the mind.’</p> +<p>Lyons had a bitter awakening—famine, ruin, and despair; +a long siege and an awful doom. The cry in Paris is, +‘Lyons has rebelled against the Republic; Lyons is no +more.’ The infamous Fouché is there, and the +hangman follows. There is no end to the fusillading and +filibustering, and mangled corpses float down the Rhone. +The picture is too awful; let us draw the curtain, and think of +Madame Roland, as in her grace and glory she helped to +give—alas! in vain—freedom to Lyons and to +France. I think of her as I take the train, and bid adieu +to a city so splendid <a name="page205"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 205</span>and so replete with associations, +some pleasant, others much the reverse. Under the Consulate +and the Empire Lyons once more rose to life and prosperity. +Bonaparte did much for the city in the way of restoration. +In 1829 General La Fayette, that mild, well-meaning, but mistaken +man, came there to receive an ovation. Once more Lyons +throbbed with joy. But its troubles were not over. In +1831 the workmen rose in revolution, and the Duke of Orleans and +Marshal Soult had to come there to put it down. This was +followed by a disastrous inundation, and in 1849, and again in +1870, it was on the point of and was in connection with the +Commune of Paris, which had active agents there. The French +<i>ouvrier</i> is always discontented, and has no faith in God; +yet Lyons is still the second city of France, in spite of the +fact that not long since the President of the French Republic was +assassinated there.</p> +<h2><a name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +206</span>CHAPTER XX.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">DIJON, OR THE WINE COUNTRY.</p> +<p>As an illustration of what a French provincial town is in the +way of hotels, I would take Dijon, where I stopped a night on my +way from Lyons to Paris. From Marseilles to Dijon the +country is interesting, giving fine views of the valley of the +Loire and hills and mountains far away. From thence to +Paris the ride is uninteresting. I suppose a great many +people stop at Dijon, as it abounds in magnificent hotels, all of +which seem to flourish. I put up at the Hôtel de +Jura, close to the railway-station, and I feel as proud as a lord +as I enjoy the luxury of that well-appointed hotel. My +bedroom is delicious, very unlike that of an English hotel. +Everyone in the house seems smiling and civil. The +dining-room is large and lofty, the cuisine is excellent, and the +smoking-room is elegantly furnished, as much so as a drawing-room +in England. I feel that I am in France, and that there they +manage better than they do with us. I go into the shop, and +the shopkeeper and his men all wear the blue blouse of the +country. If I buy anything, it is done up for me in the +most careful manner, and so profuse are the thanks of the +shopkeeper and his wife that I leave with a <a +name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 207</span>feeling +that my visit has been a real benefit to the town.</p> +<p>There is much to see in Dijon; it is an ancient city, formerly +the capital of Burgundy, and still the headquarters of its +extensive wine trade. Let us hope that the dealers are +honest men, as burgundy is much in demand in my native +land. What I have at the hotel is excellent and cheap, and +this is the great difficulty in France in the way of any national +temperance movement. Like the Cape, like Australia, the +wine trade is an important factor in the national life. It +is the Diana of the Ephesians. Try to check it, and +everyone is up in arms. The traveller is bound to +drink. At lunch he has a quart bottle of red or white wine +placed before him, and it is just the same at dinner. The +wine is included in the bill, and it is all the same whether you +drink it or leave it alone. If there is a family dining or +lunching together, the bottle goes round, and perhaps a glass or +two will suffice; but a solitary traveller has his two quart +bottles to tackle per day, and what are you to do?—one is +afraid to drink water when travelling, as there may be poison in +the pot. A similar remark applies to milk. It is +sadly liable to infection, and it may be that, when you ask for +it, it may prove no exception to the general rule. I +remember how Sir Russell Reynolds, when on a Continental tour, +confined himself to milk, and on his return to England had a +serious illness in consequence. No wonder, then, that as a +rule the ordinary traveller sticks to the wine of the country, +which is little intoxicating, and has a pleasant favour that +helps much in its consumption.</p> +<p>I fancy the burgundy of Dijon is much purer and <a +name="page208"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 208</span>pleasanter +than that of London. Nevertheless, two quarts of it a day +are rather too much. I got rid of the difficulty by +sacrificing my dinner and having tea instead. Dijon is a +very ancient city, and full of very interesting remains. +Indeed, I fancy it is one of the most interesting cities in +France. In an old engraving of it which I have, it is +surrounded by a wall, and seems a city of church spires, and its +ecclesiastical buildings are very old and numerous, but the walls +are gone, and handsome boulevards have taken their place. +Its modern fame depends on its wine, its spiced bread, and its +mustard. I buy a mustard-pot—a characteristic +specimen of French ingenuity. It is an earthenware +pig. The back is hollow. You take off the top, and +there is the place for the mustard and a long mustard-spoon, the +crooked end of which does duty as a tail. The animal has +his nose in a trough, which is divided into two portions, one for +pepper, the other for salt. I am proud of that mustard-pot, +and only use it on state occasions. At Avignon the +mustard-pot was equally a combination, but of a less artistic +character. It was simply a blue earthenware pot with the +mustard in the centre, while just below are two little recesses, +one for the pepper and one for the salt; and these you see at +really good hotels in preference to the costlier electroplate +mustard-pots in use nearer home. At Thetford they make +unbreakable earthenware. I should recommend the company to +try a few mustard-pots <i>à la Francaise</i>.</p> +<p>Dijon, says the guide-book—one of that excellent series +in red known as <i>Guide-Ioannes</i>, to be purchased for a +franc, sometimes less, at all French railway-stations—is +one of the most interesting cities in <a name="page209"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 209</span>France, containing 63,425 +inhabitants. It is situated at the junction of the Ouche +and the Suzon, at the foot of the mountains of the Côte +d’Or, and at the commencement of a fruitful valley which +stretches as far as the Jura. It is lovely—when I was +there it rained, and I did not see much of its +loveliness—well built and salubrious. Its principal +attractions are the Cathedral of St. Benigne, the Churches of +Notre Dame and St. Michel, and the Palace of the Dukes of +Burgundy, the Palace of Justice, the museum containing the tombs +of the Dukes of Burgundy and the remains of the Chartreuse de +Chamoi. Wherever you go you meet with old houses and +architecture of the most interesting character. It is a +place to be visited carefully by the artist. He will find +much to interest him at every step. In England we have +nothing like it. In the troubles and wars which led, after +many ages, to the establishment of a united France under one +monarch, Dijon became a place of great importance and the seat of +a legislative assembly. Originally a second-rate Roman +settlement, it had become Christianized by the preaching of St. +Benigne, who died a martyr for his faith, and to whom, as I have +already stated, the great cathedral was consecrated; yet it did +not become the seat of a bishopric till 1731. For ages the +Dukes of Burgundy resided there, and at a later time it gave to +France its grand pulpit orator, Bossuet, and to the Church St. +Bernard. In 1477 the French King gained possession of the +city, and the rule of the Dukes of Burgundy came to an end.</p> +<p>‘The Lord of Craon,’ writes old Philip de +Commines—the father of modern history, whose memoirs, +writes Mr. Hallam, almost make an epoch in historical +literature—<a name="page210"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +210</span>‘when he drew near Burgundy, sent forward the +Prince of Orange and others to Dijon to use persuasion and +require the people to render obedience to the King, and they +managed the matter so adroitly, principally by means of the +Prince of Orange, that the city of Dijon and all the other towns +in the duchy of Burgundy, together with many others in the +country, gave in their allegiance to the King.’ +Whether the people gained much by the change is not very +clear. Apparently, Commines did not think Dijon had much +cause for thankfulness. ‘In my opinion,’ he +writes, ‘of all the countries in the world with which I was +ever acquainted, the government is nowhere so well managed, the +people nowhere less obnoxious to violence and oppression, nor +their houses less liable to be destroyed by violence or +oppression, than in England, for these calamities only fall upon +the authors of them.’ I suppose the people of Dijon +were of a similar way of thinking, as the writer of the +guide-book tells us that ‘<i>Dijon adopta avec enthousiasme +les principes de la Révolution</i>.’ Happily +its victims during that reign of terror were few. In the +war with France the Germans got hold of Dijon; but Garibaldi came +to the rescue. Now Dijon is at peace, and long may it so +remain, its hotels affording rest and refreshment to the weary +traveller, and its wine, when taken in moderation, making glad +the heart of man. Let me make one remark as a hint to the +tourist. Possibly he sees in the Continental Bradshaw an +advertisement of a hotel where the charges are rather less than +those of others. He goes there, but he finds no +reduction. The excuse is that the lower charge is not for +the hasty traveller, but for the one who comes to stay.</p> +<p><a name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>As a +recent writer in <i>Temple Bar</i> remarks, the general air of +pride and prosperity indicates that the capital of the duchy +thrives excellently as a member of the Republic. The Rue de +Liberté reminds us of some of our old English towns. +Step aside into any of the cross-streets, and you find yourself +in a labyrinth of crooked by-ways and carved doors, by the side +of low angular bell-towers, which seem to have come straight from +some old Flemish city, or you come to quaint, quiet, detached +squares, planted with young trees, with white detached houses all +round some of them, remnants of feudal hotels. In the Salle +des Gardes of the old palace the tombs of the two greatest Dukes +may still be seen. The palace, a huge, stately, modernized +building, is now a museum, a picture-gallery, and the +headquarters of all local and departmental business. It is +there that the French Protestants of to-day worship. The +Church of Notre Dame, of which the great Condé declared +that it should be packed in a jeweller’s box to preserve +it, is beautiful outside as in. It is the mother-church, to +which the Dijonais cling, where their children are baptized and +brought on their First Communion. It is crowded of a +Sunday. Nor is St. Michel externally less impressive; but +the interior is described as dowdy and disappointing. But, +after all, I fancy the chief visitors to Dijon are the +wine-merchants, and others interested in the wine trade. +The railway time-tables are full of familiar names of +vineyards. In a journey of thirty miles southwards, you +meet with, the well-known names of Chambertin, Vougeot, Beaune, +and Meursault, and you think, perhaps, of feasting and gaiety a +long time ago. But the country <a name="page212"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 212</span>lacks the picturesque. You may +travel far on the main line without seeing anything in the shape +of pleasant landscape. The country around is undulating, +but on the whole flat. There are many walks with pleasant +memories—one leads to Talant, the ancient palace of the +Dukes of Burgundy, now the seat of an archaic village with a +marvellous church, where they show you an ancient picture said to +have been painted by St. Luke. From the common at the foot +of the hill you get a good view of Dijon, with the cathedral +towers in the foreground, and the cupola of St. Michel standing +up above. In an old château near-by was the +birthplace of the great St. Bernard. Far off is the rolling +expanse of land which stretches away to the frontiers of +Champagne. ‘It was among these fields and +villages,’ says the writer in <i>Temple Bar</i> to whom I +have already referred, ‘that the three battles of Dijon +were fought during the Franco-Prussian War, and here and there, +at turnings in the road and in wide ploughed land, monuments +covered with withered wreaths recall the event, and make the sad +landscape all the sadder; yet France pines for war, and the clang +of martial strains everywhere makes it little better than an +armed camp. It is the same everywhere. The one great +problem of European statesmen seems to be to find a sufficiency +of soldiers and sailors, as if we still lived in the dark ages, +when might was right, and the sole arbiter of nations was the +sword. It is awful to think of; it is a disgrace alike to +Christianity and civilization that such should be the case. +It is not now that we can sing, as we did in the great Exhibition +year, more than forty years ago, of the <a +name="page213"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 213</span>triumph of +Captain Pen over Captain Sword. Still, we can pray with +Campbell:</p> +<blockquote><p>‘The cause of truth and human weal,<br /> + O God above!<br /> +Transfer it from the sword’s appeal<br /> + To Peace and Love.<br /> +Peace, Love! the cherubim that join<br /> +Their spread wings o’er devotion’s shrine;<br /> +Prayers sound in vain, and temples shine,<br /> + Where they are not.’</p> +</blockquote> +<h2><a name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +214</span>CHAPTER XXI.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm">BOOKS OF REFERENCE.</p> +<p>As possibly some of my readers may wish for a further study of +some of the cities and places to which I have referred, I have +added a few books of reference which they may consult with +advantage. They are as follows:</p> +<p>Plutarch’s ‘Lives.’</p> +<p>Gibbon’s ‘Decline and Fall of the Roman +Empire.’</p> +<p>‘How to Visit the Mediterranean,’ by Dr. Lunn.</p> +<p>Pollard’s ‘Land of the Monuments.’</p> +<p>‘The Holy City,’ by Dr. Russell Forbes.</p> +<p>Murray and Baedeker’s Guide-Books.</p> +<p>Merriwether’s ‘Afloat and Ashore on the +Mediterranean.’</p> +<p>‘Climates of the South of France,’ by Dr. Theodore +Williams.</p> +<p>‘Cities of South Italy and Sicily,’ by A. J. C. +Hare.</p> +<p>Cook’s ‘South Italy.’</p> +<p>‘Jerusalem Illustrated,’ by G. Robinson Lees.</p> +<p>Cook’s ‘Egypt.’</p> +<p>‘Walks in Cairo,’ by Major Plunkett.</p> +<p>‘England in Egypt,’ by Sir A. Milner.</p> +<p>‘From Pharaoh to Fellah,’ by C. F. Moberley +Bell.</p> +<p><a name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +215</span>‘Scenes from Life in Cairo,’ by Miss +Whateley.</p> +<p>‘Leaves from my Sketch-Book,’ by E. W. Cooke.</p> +<p>‘Court Life in Egypt,’ by A. J. Butler.</p> +<p>‘Last Letters from Egypt,’ by Lady Duff +Gordon.</p> +<p>‘Egypt as It Is,’ by J. C. Moran.</p> +<p>‘Egypt and its Future,’ by Dr. Wylie.</p> +<p>Budge’s ‘Dwellers on the Nile.’</p> +<p>‘The Nile,’ by Wallis Budge.</p> +<p>‘Egypt as a Winter Resort,’ by Dr. Sandwith.</p> +<p>‘Wintering in Egypt,’ by Dr. A. J. Bentley.</p> +<p>‘Monuments of Upper Egypt,’ by Marriette Bey.</p> +<p>‘Pharaoh’s Fellahs and Explorers,’ by A. M. +Edwards.</p> +<p>‘Nile Gleanings,’ by H. Villiers Stuart.</p> +<p>‘Sketches from a Nile Steamer,’ by H. M. +Tirard.</p> +<p>‘A Tour in Egypt,’ by Rev. Canon Bell.</p> +<p>‘Egyptian Sketches,’ by J. Lynch.</p> +<p>‘Egypt,’ by S. L. Lane.</p> +<p>‘Leaves from an Egyptian Sketch-Book,’ by Canon +Isaac Taylor.</p> +<p>‘Cairo,’ by S. Lane Poole.</p> +<p>‘Egypt of To-day,’ by W. Fraser Rae.</p> +<p>‘Land of the Sphinx,’ by G. Montbard.</p> +<p>‘The New Egypt,’ by Francis Adams.</p> +<p>‘Through David’s Realm,’ by Rev. E. T. D. +Tompkins.</p> +<p>‘Palestine,’ by Major Conder.</p> +<p>The Works of Flavius Josephus.</p> +<p>‘Mount Vesuvius,’ by J. Logan Lobley.</p> +<p>‘The Bible and Modern Discoveries,’ by Henry A. +Harper.</p> +<p>‘Our Inheritance in the Great Pyramid,’ by Piozzi +Smith.</p> +<p><a name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +216</span>‘Palestine under the Moslems,’ by Guy Le +Strange.</p> +<p>‘The Women of Turkey,’ by Lucy Garnett.</p> +<p>‘Greek Pictures,’ by Dr. Mahaffy.</p> +<p>‘Mythology and Monuments of Ancient Athens.’</p> +<p>‘With the Bedouins,’ by Gray Hill.</p> +<p>‘Modern Discoveries on the Ancient Site of +Ephesus,’ by J. T. Wood.</p> +<p>‘Essays on Christian Greece,’ by Demetrius +Bikelos, translated by the Marquis of Bute.</p> +<p>‘A History of Greek Sculpture,’ by Dr. A. +Murray.</p> +<p>‘Eothen,’ by A. W. Kinglake.</p> +<p>‘Cornhill to Cairo,’ by W. M. Thackeray.</p> +<p>‘The History of Sicily,’ by Dr. Edward A. +Freeman.</p> +<p>‘Sicily, Phœnician, Greek and Roman,’ by the +late Prof. F. A. Freeman (‘Story of the +Nations’).</p> +<p>‘Among the Holy Places,’ by Dr. James Kean.</p> +<p>Dean Stanley’s ‘Sinai and Palestine.’</p> +<p>‘Buried Cities and Bible Countries,’ by G. St. +Clair.</p> +<p>‘In Christ’s Country,’ by Samuel Rome.</p> +<p>‘The Byzantine Empire,’ by C. W. C. Osman.</p> +<p>‘On the Nile with a Camera,’ by Anthony +Wilkin.</p> +<p>‘The Island of Capri,’ by Ferdinand +Gregorovius.</p> +<p>‘Diary of an Idle Woman in Constantinople.’</p> +<p>‘Recollections of an Egyptian Princess,’ by Miss +Chennelles.</p> +<p>‘Jerusalem, the Holy City,’ by Mrs. Oliphant.</p> +<p>‘The Rulers of the Mediterranean,’ by R. H. +Davis.</p> +<p>‘The Historical Geography of the Holy Land,’ by +Dr. G. A. Smith.</p> +<p>‘The Holy Land and the Bible,’ by Dr. Geikie.</p> +<p>‘The Ancient Egyptian Doctrine of the Immortality of the +Soul,’ by Dr. Wisedeman.</p> +<p>‘Manual of Egyptian Archæology,’ by Dr. +Maspero.</p> +<p><a name="page217"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +217</span>‘The Bible and the Monuments,’ by W. St. +Chaud Boscawen.</p> +<p>‘Letters from Constantinople,’ by Mrs. Max +Müller.</p> +<p>‘Egypt under the British,’ by H. F. Wood.</p> +<p>‘Travel Pictures from Palestine,’ by James Wells, +D.D.</p> +<p>‘A History of Egypt,’ by W. M. Flinders +Petrie.</p> +<p>‘The Forgotten Isles, Balearic Isles, Corsica and +Sardinia,’ by Gaston Villiers.</p> +<p>‘The Sultan and his People,’ by Richard Davey.</p> +<p>‘The Outgoing Turk,’ by H. G. Thomson.</p> +<p>For invalids merely travelling for health, I would recommend +‘The Mediterranean Winter Resorts,’ by E. A. Reynolds +Ball, which is now in a third edition. Great prominence has +been given to the medical aspect of the principal invalid +resorts, and special articles dealing with the climatic, +sanitary, and general hygienic conditions of these resorts have +been contributed by resident English physicians. This is +the only English guide-book published containing authoritative +articles on the principal winter resorts by medical +experts. Another new feature which may be specially +mentioned is the introduction of detailed descriptions of the +newer health resorts, such as Biskra, Luxor, Helouan in North +Africa; St. Raphael, Grasse, Beaulieu, Ospedaletti on the +Riviera; Torre del Greco, Castellamare, Amalfi on the South +Italian Littoral, which have come into favour within the last few +years. In describing the different places in this +guide-book, a certain uniform order has, as far as possible, been +preserved in treating of the various subjects. Routes, +climatic conditions, society, hotel and villa accommodation, +amusements, sport, principal attractions, places <a +name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 218</span>of +interest, and excursions, have been dealt with consecutively in +the above order, greater or less space being accorded to the +various subjects according to the special characteristics of each +resort. The author has attempted to give rather fuller +information about the newer and less known winter resorts, +concerning which little has been written in the standard works of +Murray and Baedeker, than he has done when describing the popular +and well-known Riviera resorts, which possess a whole library of +guide-book and travel literature of their own.</p> +<p>Dealing with the delicate question of hotel accommodation for +visitors, Mr. Reynolds Ball has not shrunk from the invidious +task of occasional recommendation, based either on personal +experience, or on trustworthy reports of friends or +residents. Most of the information in this handbook has +been derived at first-hand. He has visited nearly all the +places described, and with regard to others he has availed +himself of the help of travelled friends or residents possessing +knowledge gained on the spot.</p> +<p>Magazine articles in connection with the countries and cities +here referred to are numerous. Social life at Naples is +well described in an article in the <i>National Review</i> for +February, 1892. A readable account of the sanitary and +meteorological conditions of Cairo will be found in an article in +the <i>Lancet</i>, November, 1889, entitled ‘The Winter +Climate of the Nile.’ An interesting description of +Corfu appeared in the <i>Sunday Magazine</i> for May, 1893, by +Professor Mahaffy; the reader will find also a good deal of +useful information in Cassell’s ‘Picturesque +Mediterranean,’ 1891. For Corsica the reader had +better refer to Mr. Freshfield’s interesting <a +name="page219"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 219</span>account of +climbing experiences in the island, which appeared in the +<i>Alpine Journal</i>, 1880.</p> +<p>When one thinks of the enormous number of works published in +connection with Egypt, it is worth noting that when Edward +William Lane wrote his account of the ‘Manners and Customs +of Modern Egypt,’ of which an excellent reprint has been +published in the Minerva Library, when he returned to England +with a complete description of Egypt as it then was, and a +hundred excellent drawings, Egypt was not known or appreciated in +England, and no publisher would incur the expense of publishing +the work and reproducing the drawings, though they were +universally praised by all who saw them. In this respect +the change is simply marvellous.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">the +end</span>.</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<div class="gapmediumline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">billing and +sons, printers, guildford</span>.</p> +<h2><a name="page221"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +221</span>Advertisements</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Just Published</i>. <i>One +Vol.</i>, <i>crown</i> 8<i>vo.</i>, <i>price</i> 6<i>s.</i></p> +<h3>CRYING FOR THE LIGHT;<br /> +Or, Fifty Years Ago.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE<br /> +(<span class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>).</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>NOTICES OF THE PRESS</i>.</p> +<p>‘On the pressing social problems of the day he has much +to say that is well worth listening to. There is a force of +characterization in Mr. Ritchie’s sketches and a passion +for human sympathy pervading his whole work.’—<i>The +New Age</i>.</p> +<p>‘A thoroughly interesting +romance.’—<i>Publishers’ Circular</i>.</p> +<p>‘The story is refreshing and powerful, and the +characters well drawn and carefully studied. The heroine is +a charming, clever, and popular actress, and with commendable +courage the author endows her with a still higher +attribute—that of true, earnest Christianity. +Wentworth, preacher and journalist, is another attractive and +lifelike character. The scenes through which Mr. Ritchie +guides his characters are many and varied, and whether we take +him in his description of theatrical life, press life, in his +graphically depicted election scenes of fifty years ago, or in +the strong and painful realism of his “low life,” he +shows the same master hand.’—<i>Belfast Northern +Whig</i>.</p> +<p>‘There is much that is interesting, and may be read with +profit.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Weekly Times and Echo</i>.</p> +<p>‘It is interesting reading, and exhibits this popular +writer’s facility and graphic +power.’—<i>Inquirer</i>.</p> +<p>‘It is quite refreshing to read Mr. Ritchie’s new +book.’—<i>Bookseller</i>.</p> +<p>‘Among the lower walks of journalism he treads upon +comparatively new ground, and this picture has the witness of +truth upon it. This, after all, is what we ask from the +novelist—a true picture of real +life.’—<i>Literary World</i>.</p> +<p>‘Free from the suspicion of dulness—always +readable and often racy.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Eastern Daily Press</i>.</p> +<p>‘There is some bright writing in the +story.’—<i>Standard</i>.</p> +<p>‘The style of the writer is bright and +sparkling.’—<i>Suffolk Chronicle</i>.</p> +<p>‘One may tolerate the least popular views of an author +who writes so genially and +good-naturedly.’—<i>Scotsman</i>.</p> +<p>‘A delightfully light and pleasant +work.’—<i>Sheffield Daily Telegraph</i>.</p> +<p>‘There is not a single page which does not bear the +stamp of Mr. Ritchie’s widely read and acutely observant +mind.’—<i>Liverpool Daily Post</i>.</p> +<p>‘The heroine is a charming woman—a clever actress +and a real Christian.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Christian World</i>.</p> +<p>‘We shall rejoice to hear that the work has a large +circulation.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Christian Life</i>.</p> +<p>‘Amongst the cleverest portions of the book is the +account of the Parliamentary election at Sloville—in which +the electioneering tactics of fifty years ago are unsparingly +exposed.’—<i>East Anglian Daily Times</i>.</p> +<p>‘Marked by a good deal of animation, and a vigorous and +wholesome tone.’</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>Essex County Herald</i>.</p> +<p>‘The work is in Mr. Ritchie’s best +style.’—<i>Isle of Man Examiner</i>.</p> +<div class="gapmediumline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">JARROLD & SONS, WARWICK LANE, +PATERNOSTER ROW.</p> +<h3><a name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +222</span>TRAINING SHIPS ‘ARETHUSA’ & +‘CHICHESTER.’</h3> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Also Eight Homes on Shore for +Educating and Maintaining</i><br /> +<i>nearly</i> 1,000 <i>Boys and Girls</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">President: The Right Hon. the EARL +of JERSEY, G.C.M.G.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">SUPPORTED WHOLLY BY VOLUNTARY +CONTRIBUTIONS.</p> +<div class="gapmediumline"> </div> +<p>These times of mercantile depression have made sore gaps in +the usual gifts, and we now earnestly appeal for new subscribers +to support this long-established Charity. Over 14,000 Boys +and Girls have been rescued and trained since the foundation in +1843 by the late William Williams, Esq.</p> +<p>CONTRIBUTIONS ARE EARNESTLY SOLICITED and will be very +thankfully received by the London and Westminster Bank, 214, High +Holborn, W.C.; by</p> +<p>H. BRISTOW WALLEN, Secretary.</p> +<p>HENRY G. COPELAND, Finance and Deputation Secretary.</p> +<p>National Refuges for Homeless and Destitute Children, and +‘Arethusa’ and ‘Chichester’ Training +Ships.</p> +<div class="gapmediumline"> </div> +<p>London Office: 104, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, LONDON, W.C.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>FOUNDED 1870</i>. +<i>REBUILT 1892</i>.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h3>THE HOUSE-BOY BRIGADE.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">(<i>For Training Orphan and +Destitute Boys for Domestic Service</i>.)</p> +<p style="text-align: center">146 & 148, MARYLEBONE ROAD,<br +/> +<span class="smcap">and</span><br /> +22 & 23, ALLSOP ST., UPPER BAKER ST., LONDON.</p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: center">President:<br /> +LADY WOLVERTON.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: center">Treasurer:<br /> +LORD WOLVERTON.</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: center">Hon. Secretary:<br +/> +E. H. M. DENNY, Esq.</p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>This Institution was founded in 1870 by the late Lady +Wolverton, for the purpose of receiving Orphan and Destitute +Boys, and by employing them in the houses of the gentry, in +domestic work, training them for indoor servants.</p> +<p>A boy must have passed the Fourth Government Standard of +Education, be twelve to fifteen years of age, and in good +health. The boys work in the morning, and attend school in +the afternoon. This is tested by yearly examinations, which +are presented to the Committee and published in their Report.</p> +<p>The entrance fee is £5. As this is the only +payment asked during the period of three years or more that the +boy remains in the Society—indeed, started in life and +looked after for a period of years—£5 thus expended +in helping a boy is an excellent investment.</p> +<p>Further particulars and forms of admission can be obtained +from Mr. C. H. <span class="smcap">Chevens</span>, +<i>Secretary</i>, by applying to the Office, 148, Marylebone +Road, London, N.W.</p> +<h3><a name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +223</span>Orphanage for Little Girls,<br /> +<span class="smcap">clacton-on-sea</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">(<i>Connected with the London +Flower Girls’ Christian Mission</i>.)</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Founder</span>: +MR. JOHN A. GROOM.</p> +<p>Contributions earnestly <span class="smcap">Solicited</span> +on behalf of the above Orphanage, now sheltering, caring for and +training over 120 Orphan Destitute Girls—some of whom are +infants only a few months old. They are admitted +irrespective of creed, nationality or physical infirmity, and +remain till they are 16 years of age and are trained for domestic +service. There are no elections, votes, canvassing or +expense connected with admission; the most urgent and needy cases +are admitted by the Selection Committee. The homes are +conducted upon the cottage principle, each home offering +accommodation for 20 children, and under the care of a Foster +Mother. The Institution is quite unsectarian, and is +entirely dependent upon the generous offerings of the +benevolent. Visitors are earnestly invited to visit the +homes between 2 and 5 o’clock any day except Saturday and +Sunday.</p> +<p>Reports and Audited Accounts may be had, post free, on +application to <span class="smcap">John A. Groom</span>, +Secretary, 8, Sekforde Street, Clerkenwell, London, E.C.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<h3>The Ragged School Union & Shaftesbury Society</h3> +<p>Is a Christian Organization designed to bring brotherly +sympathy and uplifting ministries to the street child and its +parents. The methods and agencies cover body, mind, and +heart.</p> +<p>The HOLIDAY HOMES FUND dealt last summer with 6,673 +children.</p> +<p>The CRIPPLE DEPARTMENT visits and ministers various comforts +to about 6,000 cripples.</p> +<p>The POOR CHILDREN’S AID BRANCH supplies Boots and +Garments.</p> +<p>The BENEVOLENT FUND aids acute distress; also helps with Soup +Kitchen, Children’s Breakfasts and Dinners.</p> +<p>The DRIFT CHILDREN’S BRANCH gathers the outside children +to Missions and Schools who might drift away from all good +influences.</p> +<p>The RAGGED CHURCH UNION, the BAREFOOT MISSION, and the SEA +SHELL AND CHILDREN’S SCRAP-BOOK MISSION, now form part of +the R.S.U.</p> +<p>There are 192 affiliated Mission Buildings located in the +poorest districts of London attended by over 50,000 children, 232 +Bible Classes, 131 Mothers’ Meetings, 171 Bands of Hope, +106 Week-night Schools and Industrial Classes, 97 Libraries, 70 +Penny Banks, 198 Religious Meetings. There are nearly 6,000 +Voluntary Workers.</p> +<p>‘Deserving of support.’—<span +class="smcap">Bishop of Bedford</span> (Dr. Billing), in +Westminster Abbey.</p> +<p>‘The noblest of many noble charities.’—<span +class="smcap">Marquess of Lorne</span>, Southend.</p> +<p>‘The most conspicuous illustration of the new +philanthropy.’—<span class="smcap">Sir Walter +Besant</span> on the R.S.U. Jubilee in <i>The Contemporary +Review</i>.</p> +<p>‘I would rather be President of the Ragged School Union +than Prime Minister of England.’—<span +class="smcap">Seventh Earl of Shaftesbury</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">CONTRIBUTIONS EARNESTLY +SOLICITED.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Offices: 37, Norfolk Street, Strand, +London, W.C. JOHN KIRK, Secretary</span>.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page224"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 224</span>ESTABLISHED 1851.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h3>BIRKBECK BANK,</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">Southampton Buildings,<br /> +CHANCERY LAME, LONDON, W.C.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">INVESTED +FUNDS—£8,000,000.<br /> +<i>Number of Accounts</i>, <i>75,061</i>.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p>TWO-AND-A-HALF per CENT. INTEREST allowed on DEPOSITS, +repayable on demand.</p> +<p>TWO per CENT. on CURRENT ACCOUNTS, on the minimum monthly +balances, when not drawn below £100.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">STOCKS, SHARES, and ANNUITIES +purchased and sold for customers.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">Savings Department.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Small Deposits received, and +Interest allowed monthly on each<br /> +completed £1.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">The BIRKBECK ALMANACK, with full +particulars, post free.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p><i>Telephone No. 65005</i>.</p> +<p><i>Telegraphic Address</i>: ‘<i>BIRKBECK</i>, +<i>LONDON</i>.’</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">FRANCIS RAVENSCROFT, +<i>Manager</i>.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page225"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 225</span><i>Second Edition</i>. +<i>Price</i> 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> <a name="citation225"></a><a +href="#footnote225" class="citation">[225]</a></p> +<h3>EAST ANGLIA:</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">Personal Recollections and +Historical Associations.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE (‘<span +class="smcap">christopher crayon</span>’).</p> +<p>‘“East Anglia” has the merit of not being a +compilation, which is more than can be said of the great majority +of books produced in these days to satisfy the revived taste for +topographical gossip. Mr. Ritchie is a Suffolk +man—the son of a Nonconformist minister of Wrentham in that +county—and he looks back to the old neighbourhood and the +old times with an affection which is likely to communicate itself +to his readers. Altogether we can with confidence recommend +this book, not only to East Anglians, but to all readers who have +any affinity for works of its class.’—<i>Daily +News</i>.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>: +JARROLD & SONS, <span class="smcap">Warwick Lane</span>, +E.C.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<h3>BRIGHTER SOUTH AFRICA.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE.</p> +<p>‘The South African journalist gets a trifle wearied with +the commonplace descriptions of his country usually affected by +the ordinary globe-trotter, and so he will welcome a work like +this all the more warmly. For trite remarks, we have +original and critical analysis of affairs as Mr. Ritchie found +them.’—<i>South Africa</i>.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>: +FISHER UNWIN.</p> +<div class="gapline"> </div> +<h3>AN AUSTRALIAN RAMBLE.</h3> +<p style="text-align: center">By J. EWING RITCHIE.</p> +<p>‘The reader who desires a clear bird’s-eye view of +the country and a pleasant sketch of its many interests will do +well to follow Christopher Crayon’s summer journey to +Australia and back again.’—<i>Literary World</i>.</p> +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">London</span>: +FISHER UNWIN.</p> +<h2>Footnotes:</h2> +<p><a name="footnote225"></a><a href="#citation225" +class="footnote">[225]</a> In the book this page is +unnumbered and at the start of the book. It has been moved +to the end to make the whole more readable.—DP.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CITIES OF THE DAWN***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 36084-h.htm or 36084-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/6/0/8/36084 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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