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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Rose Garden, by Henry H. Saylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Rose Garden
+
+Author: Henry H. Saylor
+
+Release Date: July 27, 2011 [EBook #36872]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROSE GARDEN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A ROSE GARDEN
+
+
+
+_THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS_
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Rose Garden_ is one, a complete library
+of authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the
+activities of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures
+and diagrams will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly
+clear the possibility of having, and the means of having, some of
+the more important features of a modern country or suburban home.
+Among the titles already issued or planned for early publication are
+the following: _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis Court_; _Making a
+Garden Bloom This Year_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Roads and
+Paths_; _Making a Poultry House_; _Making a Hotbed and Cold-frame_;
+_Making Built-in Bookcases_, _Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Rock
+Garden_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Perennial Border_;
+_Making a Shrubbery Group_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with
+others to be announced later.
+
+[Illustration: An English rose garden that is nearly ideal in its
+arrangement. All the paths are of grass, the beds being sunk a few
+inches below the turf level in order to conserve the moisture.]
+
+
+
+
+MAKING A ROSE GARDEN
+
+
+_By_ HENRY H. SAYLOR
+
+
+NEW YORK
+McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+1912
+
+COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
+McBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+Published February, 1912
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                     PAGE
+
+INTRODUCTION                                            1
+
+CLASSIFICATION                                          3
+
+LOCATION AND SOIL                                      11
+
+PREPARATION AND PLANTING                               20
+
+FERTILIZING                                            25
+
+PRUNING                                                30
+
+PESTS                                                  38
+
+PROPAGATION                                            40
+
+WINTER PROTECTION                                      44
+
+LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES                              46
+
+GLOSSARY OF TERMS                                      51
+
+
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+A ROSE GARDEN WITH THE IDEAL ARRANGEMENT OF
+  GRASS PATHS                               _Frontispiece_
+
+                                              FACING PAGE
+
+ULRICH BRUNNER, A RED HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE             4
+
+MARÉCHAL NEIL, A TENDER CLIMBING TEA ROSE               8
+
+KILLARNEY, ONE OF THE BEST HYBRID TEAS                 12
+
+A GARDEN FOR ROSES ONLY                                14
+
+A DORMANT TEA ROSE AS IT COMES FROM THE GROWER         22
+
+A STOCK OF MANETTI GRAFTED WITH AN IMPROVED VARIETY    42
+
+A "STANDARD" ROSE                                      44
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+
+I well remember the caution given me by a noted horticulturist when, in
+the sudden awakening to the joys of gardening, I was about to attempt
+the cultivation of nearly everything named in the largest seed and
+plant catalogue I could find:
+
+"Leave the rose alone; it is not worth fighting for."
+
+And leave it alone I did, until one day I was browsing about an old
+book shop and came upon a well-thumbed copy of good old Dean Hole's "A
+Book About Roses." Let me tell you that there is something radically
+wrong with the person who can read that book and then go on plodding
+along his dreary, roseless way.
+
+But why, if there is such a book as that to be had, do I presume to put
+forth what can at best be but a feeble ray in its predecessor's blaze
+of inspiration? Merely because Dean Hole's book, and a later volume by
+the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar that is almost as inspiring, with
+perhaps even more helpful guidance, are both written for the English
+rosarian and for a cool, moist climate that necessitates a somewhat
+different method of procedure throughout as compared with that which
+would bring success in growing roses here in America. Then too, there
+is to my mind something encouraging in a very small book, a book that
+will merely attempt to lay the foundations for the superstructure that,
+after all, only experience can bring. Perhaps there are those who, like
+myself, are content with the bare essentials of classification, content
+to be told the basic rudiments of cultivation, and who are in haste to
+be done with all of these homely means to an end, that they may begin
+growing roses.
+
+
+
+
+Making a Rose Garden
+
+
+
+
+CLASSIFICATION
+
+
+When one considers the fact that the majority of botanists recognize
+over a hundred species of the genus _Rosa_, and that a French botanist
+lists and describes 4,266 species from Europe and western Asia alone,
+it will readily be understood that this chapter can give but a rough,
+working knowledge of groups and species.
+
+Fortunately the amateur rosarian in the United States is concerned with
+very few of the species, largely for the reason that the efforts of our
+rosegrowers have naturally been confined to a few important groups
+where general merit is most strongly marked. Indeed, for the purposes
+of a modest rose garden, one would not go far wrong if he limited his
+choice of varieties to the Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals and a few of
+the Teas, with several of the _wichuraiana_ and _rugosa_ hybrids for
+trellis and hedge.
+
+The name Hybrid Perpetual is borne by an enormous group of roses which
+have been derived from various species, crossed and recrossed until the
+parentage is in most cases hopelessly involved. The "Perpetual" half of
+the name signifies that the rose continues to bloom more or less
+frequently throughout the summer. As a matter of fact, it is usually
+_less_.
+
+Teas or Tea-scented China roses form a distinct group that is readily
+recognized by the characteristic scent of the flowers and by the
+smoothness of its leaves. Teas are, in a way, the aristocrats of the
+rose garden. They bloom with no great blare of trumpets in June, like
+the Perpetuals, but they keep steadily at their work of producing
+exquisite blooms, one or two at a time, throughout the summer. Their
+one serious handicap is a lack of hardiness, which they possess only in
+a slight and very variable degree; and they must be very carefully
+protected in the north to bring them safely through the winter. Even
+though I were forced to buy new plants each spring, however, I would
+not have a rose garden without Teas.
+
+[Illustration: Ulrich Brunner, a red Hybrid Perpetual that has achieved
+an excellent reputation. The H.P. type is characterized by hardiness
+and great freedom of bloom in June. Thereafter throughout the summer
+the burden of display must be borne by the Teas and Hybrid Teas.]
+
+Hybrid Teas, as the name signifies, are successful crosses between the
+Tea and roses in the Hybrid Perpetual group. This class combines the
+persistence of the Tea with the sturdier growth of the Perpetuals, and
+from it we shall probably get the great bulk of our garden roses for
+some years to come.
+
+The Moss Rose, of which you will surely want a representative in your
+garden, belongs in the Provence group, as will be seen in the tabular
+classification at the end of this chapter. Who does not know its
+beautiful buds in their setting of mossy stems? This rose, like many a
+one that has not gotten such a grip on our affections, has refused
+steadfastly to mix its blood with another species, and has retained its
+good points and its bad ones for over three hundred years. It is quite
+hardy but is rather susceptible to mildew.
+
+There are other roses, too, outside the larger and best-known
+groups--roses that, because of some superlative merit in one direction
+or because of past associations, lay a strong hand on our heart-strings
+and plead for an obscure corner of the new rose garden: the bristling
+Scotch Rose, the fragrant Damasks, the sweetbrier or eglantine with its
+inimitable fragrant foliage, the Penzance Brier Hybrids, the White
+Banksian of southern gardens with its odor of violets, the Persian
+Yellow of our grand-mothers' gardens, and the hundred-petaled Cabbage
+Rose, parent of the Moss.
+
+Climbing roses are to be found in many of the groups--Wichuraiana,
+Ayrshire, Polyantha, Musk, Noisette and as sports in the Hybrid
+Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid Tea groups.
+
+It is in another class, however, that we may look for the ideal
+American roses of the future. Not many years ago, came to us three
+natives of Japan, _Rosa wichuraiana_, _Rosa multiflora_ and _Rosa
+rugosa_. From the first two has been developed by our American
+hybridizers the race of Ramblers, while from the third has come such
+sturdy children as Conrad F. Meyer, perhaps the ideal hedge rose for
+our northern climate. In the estimation of Professor Charles S.
+Sargent, the dean of American horticulture, it is along the line of
+_rugosa_ hybrids that we shall succeed in filling our gardens with
+large, beautiful, hardy and continuously flowering roses.
+
+The climate of the South and California seems ideally suited to the
+Teas, producing a wealth of exquisite bloom that fills those of us that
+live in more trying surroundings with envy. In the South also they have
+the Cherokee Rose (_Rosa lævigata_ or _sinica_), flourishing along
+roadsides and in great masses on the prairies, its long, arching stems
+bearing a wealth of pure white, single flowers, four or five inches
+across, in a setting of brilliant, evergreen foliage. It is one of our
+American hybridizers' hopes and aims to cross this with a hardy rose to
+gain sufficient stamina for the North.
+
+And out in Oregon, the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas grow to a size
+and beauty that is unsurpassed the world over. Practically every kind
+of rose can be grown in the Puget Sound district, and the amateurs of
+that locality seem to have as little trouble with rose pests as we do
+here with our hardy decorative shrubs.
+
+[Illustration: Marechal Neil, a tender climbing Tea rose, dark
+golden-yellow in color, requires winter protection in the North. The
+Tea is the aristocrat of the rose garden, unapproached for delicate
+fragrance, refined form of the individual blooms, and continued
+flowering throughout the summer.]
+
+To sum up the whole matter of classification and to show the relative
+positions of many groups that, for lack of space, have not even been
+mentioned above, the following tabular key is given--a slightly
+modified form of the classification given in the Cyclopedia of American
+Horticulture:
+
+  _I. Summer-flowering Roses, blooming once only_
+
+      A. Large-flowered (double).
+
+         1. Growth branching or pendulous; leaf wrinkled.
+             _Provence_
+                Moss
+                Pompon
+                Sulphurea
+
+         2. Growth firm and robust; leaf downy.
+             _Damask and French_
+                Hybrid French
+                Hybrid Provence
+                Hybrid Bourbon
+                Hybrid China
+
+         3. Growth free; leaf whitish above; spineless.
+              _Alba_
+
+      B. Small-flowered (single and double).
+
+         1. Growth climbing; flowers produced singly.
+             _Ayrshire_
+
+         2. Growth short-jointed, generally, except in Alpine.
+             _Briers_
+                Austrian
+                Scotch
+                Sweet
+                Penzance
+                Prairie
+                Alpine
+
+         3. Growth climbing; flowers in clusters.
+             _Multiflora_
+                Polyantha
+
+         4. Growth free; foliage persistent (more or less shiny).
+             _Evergreen_
+                Sempervirens
+                Wichuraiana
+                Cherokee
+                Banksian
+
+         5. Growth free; foliage wrinkled.
+             _Pompon_
+
+
+  _II. Summer- and Autumn-flowering Roses, blooming more or less
+  continuously_
+
+      A. Large-flowered.
+
+         1. Foliage very rough.
+             _Hybrid Perpetual_
+             _Hybrid Tea_
+             _Moss_
+
+         2. Foliage rough.
+             _Bourbon_
+             _Bourbon Perpetual_
+
+         3. Foliage smooth.
+             _China_
+                Tea
+                Lawrenceana (Fairy)
+
+      B. Smaller-flowered.
+
+         1. Foliage deciduous
+
+            a. Habit climbing.
+                _Musk_
+                   Noisette
+                _Ayrshire_
+                _Polyantha_
+                   Wichuraiana Hybrids
+
+            b. Habit dwarf, bushy.
+                _Perpetual Briers_
+                   Rugosa
+                   Lucida
+                   Microphylla
+                   Berberidifolia
+                   Scotch
+
+         2. Foliage more or less persistent.
+             _Evergreen_
+                Macartney
+                Wichuraiana
+
+
+
+
+LOCATION AND SOIL
+
+
+If there is any secret in connection with the growing of beautiful
+roses in abundance, it lies in the strict observance of a few
+fundamental principles through which the rose plants, or bushes if you
+will, are given a location and soil which they will find congenial and
+nourishing. If for one moment you may have thought that success depends
+upon some particular insecticide for the annihilation of the aphis, or
+some hard-and-fast rule for pruning, or the use of a fertilizer having
+magical attributes, dismiss that thought from your mind, once and for
+all time. Insecticides, judicious pruning and suitable manuring have
+each an important part in the campaign, but transcending all of these
+is the first choice of location and the preparation of the garden in
+which the roses are to grow. Warfare against the rose's enemies can be
+but a one-sided, hopeless struggle if we are working against nature all
+the way through. Far easier and more certain in effect will be our
+first efforts to establish the rose plants themselves so firmly in
+healthful, congenial surroundings that they, rather than we, will bear
+the brunt of the battle against the insect pests.
+
+In China I am told that a custom once prevailed whereby the emperor
+paid his physician a good salary as long as the ruler kept his good
+health. If he fell ill the physician's pay stopped; if he died, off
+came the practitioner's head.
+
+Be generous in the amount of thought and care you give in providing
+health, food and strength for your rose plants, and as a result you
+will have to give very little thought and care to curing disease and
+killing off the rose-bugs and slugs.
+
+In the first place let us take up the matter of situation.
+Unfortunately most of us will have little leeway in this, for the
+average suburban place is not one that will offer hill and valley,
+windswept open space and warm shelter. The ideal location is to be
+found neither on a hilltop where the winter winds would play havoc with
+our winter protection, nor in a low hollow where frosts are always more
+frequent. A gentle slope to the south, well above nearby low spots into
+which the cold air will drain, sheltered in some way from the north,
+would be all that we could ask. In the matter of this shelter, however,
+we meet a further difficulty, for our rose garden must be kept well
+away from any trees. It is a matter of common knowledge that the root
+system of a tree will, as a rule, extend as far out from the base as
+the tree rises about the ground. Obviously it would be merely a waste
+of time and effort to locate the rose garden where the hungry roots of
+trees would rob it of the food supply furnished the roses. In general,
+therefore, we shall have to use the wall of a house or a garden wall
+for our needed protection, though in case of necessity we could sink a
+masonry wall or an iron plate as a barrier between the upper rich soil
+of our rose beds and the roots of the sheltering trees.
+
+[Illustration: Killarney, the comparatively new Hybrid Tea rose, having
+a beautiful shell-pink color, has achieved a wide popularity. The
+Hybrid Tea combines in a measure the hardiness of the Hybrid Perpetual
+with the continuous flowering habit of the Tea.]
+
+Sun, it is perhaps unnecessary to say, is essential, though it will be
+found that if the beds are in shade for the first part of the morning
+one will have greater opportunity of enjoying the roses at their
+best--before the dew has been drunk from their petals by the thirsty
+midsummer rays.
+
+The matter of the size and design of the rose bed is of comparatively
+little importance; what really is vital, however, is that the roses be
+permitted to have the beds to themselves--absolutely. But recently I
+read a magazine article purporting to be good advice for the
+rose-growing amateur. Therein appeared words of regret that the rose
+must needs have such bare, gaunt stalks, and suggesting as a remedy the
+growing of some vine about the base of the bush--I am not sure, indeed,
+that the honeysuckle was not specifically named for the place. I can
+well imagine that the result might be a very beautiful honeysuckle, but
+we should look there for the rose in vain.
+
+[Illustration: Keep the roses by themselves; they will not only thrive
+better, but their beauty seems not to be increased by comparison with
+other flowers.]
+
+The Queen of Flowers will brook no liberties of this kind. She insists
+upon reigning alone in her glory, and anyone who dares presume to
+introduce even a low-growing, shallow-rooted ground cover with the
+intention of making the rose bed seem less bare, will never see his
+roses at their best. Personally I have never felt that a rose garden
+need be in the least unattractive. There is one type of beauty that
+might be represented by a carpet of creeping phlox; there is another
+that belongs to the rose garden, bearing its single blooms here and
+there, sparsely, among the green foliage and thorny stems. In the
+former instance one looks at the mass effect without a thought of the
+beauty of individual flowers; in the latter case one's glance seeks out
+instinctively the single bloom to drink in its beauty and fragrance.
+Ah, but you say, how about the time when there is not a single rose in
+sight? There need be no such time between spring and fall if you plant
+your rose garden to best advantage. There is no need nor reason to put
+all the June-blooming roses together, with the Teas and Hybrid Teas off
+by themselves in another place. If the remontant types are interspersed
+throughout your garden you need never, between May and October, look
+for a rose in vain.
+
+The shape of the beds, too, may be such as to avoid an appearance of
+"too much dirt" in the rose garden. For my own part I would have a
+rectangular garden and simple parallelograms for the beds, although the
+rose garden about a central feature has its strong attractions. But if
+you arrange the beds in long narrow units--four feet wide for a double
+row of plants or twenty inches wide for a single row, and as long as
+your purse will allow, having the paths between the rows of turf rather
+than gravel or brick, and the beds slightly sunk below this turf, the
+rose garden need never be less than most attractive. Avoid beds wider
+than will accommodate two rows of plants, for it is essential that
+every rose bush in the garden be immediately accessible from a path.
+
+[Illustration: A suggestion for a rectangular rose garden with paths of
+turf. The beds are about forty inches wide, the paths four feet,
+excepting the center one, which is five feet in width. A hedge, which
+might be of _rugosa_, contributes a desirable air of seclusion.]
+
+To those intensely practical persons who object to walking through
+dew-wet paths in the morning tour of the rose garden, let me point out
+the obvious impossibility of having gravel paths immediately adjacent
+to the rose beds, and the continued care required to keep in a
+presentable condition a narrow strip of sod between path and bed.
+
+Now as to the preparation of the rose bed itself. First of all, dig the
+soil out to a depth of two feet at least, keeping the top soil and sods
+and the subsoil in separate piles as they are taken out. Loosen up the
+floor of the trench with a pick and on this, if the ground needs
+draining, which it will if it is a compact, sodden surface, put a layer
+of stones, cinders and other material that will not decompose. On top
+of this place the best of the sub-soil mixed with a generous dressing
+of well-rotted manure. Finally, add the sod, well broken up, and the
+top soil, also enriched with manure. Then fill in the bed with enough
+good top soil, unmanured, to bring it two or three inches above the
+adjoining surface. Make sure that the surface of the bed, after it has
+settled, will be about one inch below that of the adjoining sod in
+order to retain the moisture from rain. This preparation of the bed
+should be done at least several weeks in advance of planting time.
+
+In composing the soil for the rose bed, it is well to remember that the
+Hybrid Perpetuals require a heavy soil containing some clay. For Teas
+and Hybrid Teas a lighter, warmer soil is better. In his most admirable
+"Book of the Rose," the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar tells an amusing
+incident in connection with soil. The good rector was dining out and
+had been served with a generous portion of plum pudding. It was very
+dark, rich, strong and greasy. Absent-mindedly he sat back in his chair
+gazing at the dish intently. His hostess, noticing his hesitancy, asked
+if anything were wrong with the pudding. "Oh, no," replied the rector
+unthinkingly, "I was thinking what rare stuff it would be to grow roses
+in."
+
+Top soil from an old pasture, if it be a moderately heavy loam, taken
+with the grass roots and chopped very fine, will do excellently for the
+Hybrid Perpetuals. For the Teas and Hybrid Teas, mix with soil of this
+kind about one-quarter of its bulk of sand and leaf mold to lighten it.
+Remember that all the manure that is used should be incorporated with
+the lower two-thirds of the bed; the upper third should not contain any
+recently added manure as it is apt to harm the roots of new plants.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARATION AND PLANTING
+
+
+In the vicinity of New York and further north, I think it will be found
+that spring planting is best. South of Philadelphia many roses are set
+out in the fall, for here they become well established before cold
+weather sets in, and are therefore ready to start active growth at the
+first touch of spring.
+
+If spring planting is chosen the plants must be put in the ground
+early--at the very first opportunity--so that they will have time to
+become firmly established before hot weather. Pot-grown plants from a
+greenhouse cannot, of course, be set out until all danger from frost is
+past. Roses that are planted so late cannot be expected to show really
+satisfying results in bloom the first year. Roses that are planted
+early in the spring, if field-grown stock as explained below, will with
+proper cultivation give at least a reasonable amount of bloom the first
+year, though not so much as in later years.
+
+One hears a great deal of argument on the question of whether roses are
+best grown on their own roots or when grown on a sturdier stock, such
+as Manetti for Hybrid Perpetuals and brier for Hybrid Teas, which are
+probably the best rose stocks for this country. It seems to be the
+general consensus of opinion that roses budded on these stocks will
+thrive much more luxuriantly and give much better blooms than those
+which depend upon their own root systems. It is necessary, however, to
+set the point at which the shoot is budded to the stock about two
+inches beneath the surface; otherwise there is the constant danger that
+suckers will spring from the root and, if overlooked for a time, these
+will kill the more desirable shoots.
+
+Several kinds of roses are offered by the dealers for setting out in
+the spring. There are the pot-grown roses mentioned above--the only
+form in which many of the climbers may be readily obtained. Mail-order
+houses make a practice of sending out the Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid
+Teas and Teas also in this form of very young plants grown from
+cuttings under glass during the winter. Costing more, and surely far
+more dependable, are the field-grown roses that have originally been
+budded on Manetti or brier and, usually in two-year-old form, taken out
+of the ground the previous fall while dormant, to lie in cold houses
+until ready for planting. Such roses as these will surely bloom the
+first season and are far better equipped for the shock of being set
+into the open ground again than the pot-grown plants that have never
+had a taste of real garden life.
+
+A word of warning might profitably be uttered against the cheap roses
+budded on _multiflora_ stock, grown in Holland and sold in some of the
+department stores. They are short-lived and very poor in comparison
+with plants on brier and Manetti. _Multiflora_ has been entirely
+discarded as a stock by English and Irish growers.
+
+Roses on their own roots have the advantage of being cheaper, due to the
+saving of labor in striking cuttings rather than budding--one-year-old
+plants costing a dollar for six to a dozen; two-year and three-year-old
+bushes, which are, of course, far more desirable, cost more in
+proportion. Dormant, field-grown budded roses cost, in the two-year-old
+size, from thirty-five cents to a dollar each.
+
+[Illustration: A dormant Tea rose as it is received from the grower for
+planting in March. After planting it should be still further pruned.]
+
+Before setting the plants examine each carefully and cut off the broken
+roots with a sharp knife, as well as all eyes that may appear on the
+root stock, in order to forestall suckers. The plants should be set
+immediately upon their receipt from the nurseryman, so that they will
+not become dried out. If they seem dry it may be well to puddle the
+roots in thin mud just before setting. Make the hole large enough to
+accommodate all of the plant's roots without crowding, remembering to
+put the budding point not less or more than two inches below the
+surface and with the roots spread out nearly horizontally, but
+inclining downward towards their ends and without crossing one another.
+This will not be an easy matter, for in shipment the roots will have
+probably been so compressed that they extend almost directly downward
+from the collar. After the plants have been firmly set and the earth
+carefully packed in around the roots, rake the soil to loosen it up
+over the whole surface. The soil will probably be moist enough at the
+time to need no watering.
+
+With the pot-grown plants, the moist ball of earth that comes about the
+roots is carefully retained intact and placed in the hole prepared for
+the plant. Set the plant firmly in place by pressure with the soles of
+your shoes, give a generous watering and finally break up the surface
+of the soil with a rake.
+
+It is absolutely essential to keep the surface of the ground loosened
+with a hoe and a sharp steel rake throughout the summer. After very
+hard rain loosen the soil as soon as it is dry enough to work, to
+conserve the moisture.
+
+
+
+
+FERTILIZING
+
+
+In striking contrast to the exquisite beauty of the rose is the food
+that we must give it in abundance if we would have the most healthy
+plants. But for the true rose enthusiast the turning over of a muck
+heap to find manure in just the right form, or the dilution of the
+by-products of the cow barn with water to make the best stimulant, have
+nothing about them that is in the least objectionable.
+
+If the soil at our disposal is inclined to be rich in clay, we can
+probably do no better than incorporate well-decomposed stable manure
+with it, by raking it, well pulverized, into the surface in the early
+spring. In sandy or gravelly soils, however, cow manure or that from
+the pigsty will serve far better. It must be remembered that when
+properly set out the rose plant is comparatively shallow-rooted, so
+that this raking of fine old manure into the soil must be just that,
+and _not_ the deep digging of half-rotted manure into the bed with
+a spading-fork. The aim in the method advocated is to put the solid
+manure where the spring rains will carry it in time to the feeding
+roots, and in the liquid form in which it is readily assimilated.
+
+The theory of this manurial feeding will make clear the fact that a
+proper application of liquid manure has practically all the advantages
+of the former method without its drawbacks. For solid manure, if
+applied to the beds in quantities sufficient to be of real value, has a
+tendency to keep the needed air out of the top soil, and to bring in
+its train an abundance of weeds that will be hard to exterminate. So
+that, with the exception of light sandy soils, where the humus is
+needed, we shall do well to feed the rose garden liquid nourishment.
+
+The time when this stimulant will be most effective is in the months of
+May and June, when most of the plants are putting all their efforts
+into the forming buds. Withhold the liquid in dry spells, for it is
+most appreciated immediately after a good, soaking rain.
+
+Avoid getting the manure on the foliage, and make sure that it errs on
+the side of weakness rather than strength. Suspending a burlap sack
+containing a bushel of cow manure in a barrel of water for two days,
+will give a solution that needs dilution with its own bulk of water. A
+half-gallon to a plant each week will be a sufficient normal feeding.
+
+Immediately after dosing the beds go over them with a rake or prong-hoe
+and loosen up the surface to prevent evaporation.
+
+A vital principle in feeding rose plants is one that seems to be
+overlooked instinctively by seven out of ten amateur gardeners. It is
+this: A strong-growing, healthy plant needs and will absorb a large
+quantity of liquid manure; a sickly plant, or one that is not yet well
+established, does not need and cannot absorb even the normal quantity
+of this food. Yet how often are we tempted to feed to excess this
+weakling and withhold food from that nearby sturdy bush, because the
+latter "doesn't need it." Just bear in mind the fact that we do not
+give burgundy to a puny child that is struggling against the effects of
+malnutrition, but that a healthy, growing boy can consume an
+astonishing amount of food and drink.
+
+To review the year's activities in fertilizing: let us put a top
+dressing of rough manure over the beds in the fall, about three inches
+deep, with further protection where the climate demands it. In the
+spring we shall rake off the coarse portion of this covering, leaving
+the finely pulverized manure to be raked gently into the top soil if it
+needs this additional humus (the manure's food value will have been
+washed down by the winter's rain and snow). If our soil is clayey the
+whole top dressing will be hoed off. In May and June come the generous
+applications of the liquid manure, and for the Teas and Perpetuals that
+really do continue to flower, these applications may well be continued
+through the summer at less frequent intervals, leaving off at the end
+of August, let us say, so as not to encourage unnecessarily the late
+summer's growth of wood.
+
+Although not many of us, in all probability, will meet the unusual
+condition of having for our rose gardens only an over-fertilized soil
+in a long-used garden, it may be well to mention the fact that such a
+soil will not produce good roses. Treatment with lime will help matters
+for a time, but if within the range of possibility we should remake the
+garden with virgin soil.
+
+The use of nitrate of soda and like stimulants may be undertaken
+sparingly in the spring, but these are better left to those gardeners
+who have learned, possibly through disastrous experiences, how properly
+to use them.
+
+
+
+
+PRUNING
+
+
+The rose is one of those plants that seem to need the firm hand of man
+to direct them in the way they should grow. If left to their own
+devices, most of the highly cultivated roses revert quickly to lower
+types; they need the pitiless pruning-knife to spur them to their best
+endeavor.
+
+It will readily be seen that severe pruning, as a general principle,
+tends towards greater beauty of individual blooms, while light pruning
+is conducive to a better rounded-out form of bush at the expense of the
+flowers. Or, again, the severe pruning gives quality of bloom as
+opposed to quantity of bloom.
+
+Always cut back the plants severely when first setting them out--Teas
+and Hybrid Teas less than the Hybrid Perpetuals, and the climbers least
+of all.
+
+Unreasonable as it may seem, the plants of vigorous habit of growth
+need less pruning than the less active ones.
+
+Pruning may be started with the dwarf Hybrid perpetuals in
+March--leaving four or five canes three feet in length if large masses
+of bloom are wanted. The result will be a large number of small
+flowers. If, on the other hand, fewer and larger flowers are wanted,
+all weak growth should be removed and every healthy cane retained and
+cut back in preparation for the plant's development. The weakest should
+not have more than four inches of wood left on the root, while the
+strongest may have eight or nine inches. Always prune a cane about a
+quarter of an inch above an outside bud unless the cane is very far
+from the vertical, when an inside one should be left for the terminal
+shoot. See that the wood is not torn or bruised in the operation.
+
+The pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas had better be postponed until the
+first signs of life appear. The bark becomes greener and the dormant
+buds begin to swell. Dead or dying wood will then readily be noticeable
+and it may be removed. Remember that these two classes do not need such
+severe pruning as do the Hybrid Perpetuals; twice the amount of wood
+may safely be left if it seems promising.
+
+Dormant rose plants bought in the spring will arrive from the growers
+already partly pruned. In general, from one-half to two-thirds of the
+remaining length of cane should be cut off when the plants are set out,
+removing entirely all bruised or dead wood. Bear in mind always, if
+your conscience revolts at such severe cutting, that the strongest
+dormant buds are nearest the base of the plant and it is these we want
+to force into growth to bear the prize blooms.
+
+With the ramblers very little cutting is needed; merely cut back the
+shoots that seem to be outdistancing their neighbors by too much, and
+cut out entirely the dead canes.
+
+The _rugosa_ is intended to be a bush rather than a strong, lean plant
+for prize blooms. Merely cut out old, dry wood and trim back the longer
+shoots to the desired form.
+
+Use a first-class pair of pruning shears in order that the work may be
+done quickly and, above all, with clean cuts that show no tearing or
+abrasion of the bark.
+
+
+
+
+PESTS
+
+
+Once more let me repeat the fact that by far the most effective
+campaign against the insects and other pests that infest rose plants is
+to be found, not in sprayings and dustings, but rather in maintaining
+to the best of our ability a condition of health in the plant itself.
+Prevention here, as always, is better than cure. Nor can it be too
+strongly emphasized that the daily use of a powerful but finely divided
+spray from the hose will make life on the rose plant miserable for
+practically all of the parasites.
+
+The following are the chief enemies that we may encounter in the rose
+garden. They are briefly described so as to be recognizable when found,
+and for the annihilation or keeping in check of each is given one of
+the many remedies. Practically every rosarian develops, after a time,
+his own pet formulæ for these poisons, so that rose books will be found
+to contain a wonderfully varied assortment of weapons--so numerous in
+fact that one would think the army of rose pests could never live to
+continue their depredations another season.
+
+
+_Aphis or Green Fly_
+
+A small, pale green louse, winged or wingless, with a soft, fat, oval
+body apparently too big for its legs. A single aphis in five
+generations may become the progenitor of 6,000,000,000.
+
+Tobacco smoke is an excellent weapon, or, if a spray is found more
+convenient to apply, a solution of 4 oz. of tobacco stems boiled for 10
+min. in 1 gal. of soft water, will do. The same weight of quassia chips
+may be substituted for the tobacco. If the tobacco is used, the
+cheapest that can be bought is the best for the purpose. Strain the
+solution and add 4 oz. of soft soap while it is still hot, stirring
+well to dissolve the soap.
+
+Another remedy--1 qt. of soft soap boiled in 2 qts. of soft water,
+adding 1 pt. of paraffin before cooling--is well recommended. It should
+be applied diluted with soft water to ten times its bulk. The paraffin
+acts as an astringent which, together with the soft soap, cleanses the
+plant of honey-dew, which is exuded by the aphis to protect its feet
+against cold and wet.
+
+
+_Mildew_
+
+A fungous disease that may appear when the rose plants are in a damp,
+shady or ill-ventilated location. Although some varieties are more
+susceptible than others to this disease, the rose garden located out in
+the open, where the air has unobstructed access, will not be troubled
+much by mildew. When the disease appears late in the autumn it need not
+be feared.
+
+Dusting flowers of sulphur upon the foliage, taking care to reach the
+under side of leaves as well as the upper, and upon the ground about
+the plants, is a well established remedy. It will be found convenient
+to shake the powder from a baking-powder can, the end of which is
+punched with holes, if a regular powder gun is not at hand. Use the
+sulphur in the early morning, when the dew will help to hold it on the
+leaves, or else spray the plants with water beforehand.
+
+
+_Rose Thrip_
+
+A small, yellowish white insect with transparent wings, usually found
+on the _under_ side of the rose leaves. This pest appears in swarms and
+in an astonishingly short time turns the foliage yellow.
+
+If the pest appears, spray the rose plants daily with a hose as
+suggested above. If this does not prove efficacious, dust the under
+side of the leaves with white hellebore in a powder gun. Whale oil soap
+solution, in the proportions of 5 oz. of soap to 1 gal. of water, is a
+very good remedy. It is easier to dissolve the soap if the water is
+hot.
+
+
+_Rose Caterpillar or Leaf-roller_
+
+Several kinds of caterpillars may appear, varying from one-half to
+three-quarters of an inch in length, and either green, yellow or brown
+in color. They have a habit of enveloping themselves in the rose
+leaves, or boring their way into the flower buds. In the latter case
+they are very apt to be overlooked.
+
+Powdered hellebore will hinder their progress, but by far the most
+effective weapons are the finger and thumb--gloved, if you insist.
+
+
+_Rose Chafer or Rose-bug_
+
+This brown beetle, less than one-half inch in length, is one of the
+best-known rose pests. It is a slow-moving creature that appears
+suddenly in armies in the blooming season in June, and is the more
+annoying for the reason that it devotes its attention almost entirely
+to the flowers themselves.
+
+Paris green, dusted over the plants, will kill the pest, but this
+poison has a disagreeable way of showing no intelligent discrimination
+in the choice of its victims. Really the only satisfactory method of
+attack is to knock the stupid creatures off the flowers into a tin of
+kerosene and then burn it.
+
+
+_Rose Slug_
+
+The larvæ of a saw-fly which comes up out of the ground in May and
+June. The female makes incisions in the leaves and deposits her eggs,
+which hatch out in about two weeks. The slugs will eat an astonishing
+amount of leaf if not checked. They are about a half-inch long, green,
+and will be found on the upper side of the leaf.
+
+Powdered white hellebore, dusted on the foliage, or the solution of
+whale oil soap mentioned for the Rose Thrip, will keep it in check.
+
+
+_White Grub_
+
+An underground enemy that feeds on the roots of rose plants. The
+withering or sickliness of the plant is sufficient reason to cause a
+thorough search to be made by lifting it. The grub, which is provided
+with six legs near the head, and which coils itself into a crescent
+shape when in repose, is particularly fond of strawberry plants, so it
+will be well to keep these some distance away from the rose garden.
+
+There is no insecticide that will be effective, because of the
+underground point of attack. Lifting the plant and removing the grub is
+the only thing that can be done.
+
+
+_Bark Louse or White Scale_
+
+This appears when the rose bush is grown in a damp, shady place. It is
+snow white and individual scales are about one-tenth of an inch in
+diameter, irregularly round.
+
+Cut off and burn badly infested shoots. Spray with 1 lb. of soap in 1
+gal. of water in early winter and again in early spring. Weaker summer
+applications may be used also--1 lb. in 4 or 6 gal. once in three weeks
+throughout the season will reach all the larvæ.
+
+
+_Our Allies_
+
+It is well to remember that there are friends of the rose in the lower
+animal world as well as enemies--the toad, lady-bug, ground-bird and
+swallow, particularly. The toad is sometimes brought by the English
+gardeners from a distance to help wage war on the pests; the lady-bug
+may be passed thankfully by when seen; and it may be well to try
+attracting the birds to the rose garden by scattering a few crumbs
+there daily--not too many, but just enough to arouse a real appetite
+for insect pests.
+
+
+
+
+PROPAGATION
+
+
+The propagation of his own stock is a task for which the expert is
+better fitted than the beginner for whom this book is written.
+Nevertheless, I doubt whether the amateur will pass through his first
+year of rose growing without wishing to make an attempt to multiply the
+stock of those roses which have with him been most successful, or to
+bud a choice variety from a friend's garden on the foster-parent stock
+for his own place.
+
+Whereas in England the process of budding is carried on very widely and
+with fair success among amateur and professional rosarians alike, with
+us this means of propagation seems fraught with greater difficulty.
+Excepting in the case of varieties that do not readily root from
+cuttings, this latter method of propagation is generally adopted where
+roses on their own roots are desired.
+
+The best time for taking cuttings from a plant is towards the end of
+the summer, when the ripe wood of the current year's growth will be
+available. Ten inches is a convenient length for the pieces and some
+rosarians feel that if a "heel," or portion of older wood, remains on
+the lower end there will be greater likelihood of rooting. Remove all
+but the two top leaves and set the cutting in a light soil, or even in
+pure sand, so that only the two upper buds are exposed. Leave the
+cuttings in the ground until the following autumn, when those that have
+taken root may be transplanted and set at a less depth in their
+permanent quarters.
+
+Budding is a far more interesting process to carry through, and by it
+we may have sturdier roses on a stock like Manetti or brier. A very
+sharp knife is required, with some raffia for tying the bud securely
+into the stock. In the limited scope of this book I can but indicate
+very roughly the general procedure, and, indeed, budding is far more
+readily learned by watching a skilled rosarian do it than by reading
+many pages of description. Briefly, then, a bud, which may be found
+under any petiole, is carefully sliced, with its surrounding bark and
+backing of wood, from the half-ripe stalk of the variety to be
+propagated, leaving the petiole in place to serve as a handle. This is
+probably best done in July. After removing very gently the wood backing
+from the bark and bud, the latter are slipped into a T-shaped incision
+in the foster stock, this incision to be made through the bark to the
+actual wood of the stalk. The bud and its supporting bark are inserted
+between the wood and bark of the stock, the latter then being wrapped
+with a few turns of raffia to hold the bud in place. After a period of
+a month the bud will either have taken hold or failed, and the tie may
+be removed.
+
+The rose plants that we buy already budded on Manetti or brier are
+produced in this way, excepting that the bud is inserted very low on
+the stock, so that the junction will be underground. This is the more
+desirable place for budding, insuring, if we nip the suckers as they
+may appear, a plant that above ground shows only the shoots of the
+desired variety.
+
+[Illustration: A shoot of an improved variety of rose grafted and held
+in place with raffia to the stock of a sturdy growth like Manetti. At
+the right is a "sucker" or growth from the root, and it must be cut off
+as soon as it appears.]
+
+Grafting is practiced only in the case of roses grown under glass, when
+the scions are cleft into stocks of Manetti or brier grown in pots for
+the purpose.
+
+Layering is used as a means of increasing the stock only in the case of
+roses that do not readily strike from cuttings. It consists of bending
+down a long shoot so that a section of it may be pegged underground to
+take root.
+
+Propagation by seed is limited to the efforts to obtain new varieties
+after cross-fertilization, and is a discouragingly slow and uncertain
+process.
+
+
+
+
+WINTER PROTECTION
+
+
+It will be a red-letter day for amateur rosarians when the existing
+favorites among rose plants shall have been so improved by
+cross-breeding that we can leave off all the winter overcoats of straw,
+brush and earth, with the happy knowledge that spring will find as many
+live plants in the rose garden as we rejoiced in during the previous
+season.
+
+[Illustration: In England the "standard" rose, having a long stem of
+the foster stock, is quite common. With us it is less frequently seen
+on account of the bother of proper winter protection.]
+
+Although the Hybrid Perpetuals are, for the most part, sufficiently
+hardy to withstand an ordinary winter unprotected, it is still the part
+of wisdom to conserve their energy and health by hoeing up the earth
+about their bases and putting over all a top dressing of rough manure
+when protecting the Hybrid Teas and Teas. In the northern states it
+will be well to tie up the tops of the latter with straw or to surround
+the bed with a border of boards or wire netting, after winter has set
+in, and cover the plants with a thick blanket of leaves held down by
+brush. This protection should be removed gradually in March.
+
+Where the winters are particularly severe, a still more certain
+precaution is to dig up the plants and lay them in well-drained
+trenches, covering them with earth and a further layer of leaves, straw
+or brush. The aim is not to protect the plants from freezing at all,
+but to prevent the alternate freezing and thawing that is so
+disastrous.
+
+Another treatment for tender roses is to winter them in boxes of soil
+in a cool cellar. In case this is done, see that the earth is not
+allowed to dry out entirely. At planting time in the spring the dormant
+plants will be taken out, dipped in a bucket of thin mud and replanted
+in the garden.
+
+While we may be willing for the present to take such precautions with
+the garden roses, most of us will not care to coddle the climbers to
+anything like this extent. Beyond hoeing up a mound of earth about the
+bases of these and top-dressing them, we shall let the climbers fight
+their own battles, and leave the result to the principle of the
+survival of the fittest.
+
+
+
+
+LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES
+
+
+It is a difficult matter, indeed, to select, from the experience of
+rose growers and from the long lists of the nurserymen's catalogues, a
+few that may be safely named as the best roses. In fact, it is a task
+that no one would care to undertake. It may be helpful, however, to add
+the following list; these are by no means the only good roses, but in
+choosing any or all of these the amateur cannot well go astray. For the
+benefit of his experience and advice regarding these lists, I am
+indebted, among others, to Dr. Robert Huey, of Philadelphia--probably
+the most experienced amateur grower of roses in the United States.
+
+It has been thought best not to attempt individual descriptions nor to
+go very far into details of color. The lists, then, are grouped into
+rough sub-divisions under the main colors, and it will be understood
+that "pink," for instance, will include a rather wide range of varying
+tints.
+
+
+HYBRID PERPETUALS
+
+_White_--Merveille de Lyon, White Baroness, Frau Karl Druschki,
+Margaret Dickson, Mabel Morrison, Gloire Lyonnaise (in reality a Hybrid
+Tea, but as it blooms only in June it may be included in the Hybrid
+Perpetual class).
+
+_Pink_--Baroness Rothschild, Caroline D'Arden, Heinrich Schultheis, Her
+Majesty, Lady Arthur Hill, Mrs. George Dickson, Mrs. Harkness, Susan
+Marie Rodocanachi, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Neyron, Marie Finges, Marquise
+de Castellane, Mrs. R. S. Sharman-Crawford, Souvenir de la Malmaison.
+
+_Red_--Captain Hayward, Fisher Holmes, General Jacqueminot, Oscar
+Cordel, Ulrich Brunner, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Teck, Anne de
+Diesbach, Duke of Fife, Étienne Levet, Prince Arthur, Ard's Rover
+(climber).
+
+Prince Camille de Rohan is the best of the very dark roses, among which
+also are Sultan of Zanzibar, Louis Van Houtte, and Xavier Olibo. These,
+however, are weak growers and frequently do not bring their blossoms to
+perfection.
+
+
+TEAS
+
+_White_--White Maman Cochet, Hon. Edith Gifford.
+
+_Pink_--William R. Smith, Maman Cochet, Souvenir d'un Ami, Duchesse de
+Brabant, Mrs. B. R. Cant.
+
+_Yellow_--Harry Kirk, Étoile de Lyon, Francisca Krueger, Isabelle
+Sprunt, Safrano, Marie Van Houtte.
+
+
+HYBRID TEAS
+
+_White or light-colored and mixed_--Viscountess Folkestone, Pharisaer,
+Molly Sharman-Crawford, Ellen Wilmot, Grace Molyneaux, Antoine Revoire,
+Joseph Hill, Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Betty, Prince de Bulgarie, La Tosca,
+Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.
+
+_Pink_--Killarney, Lady Alice Stanley, Lady Ursula, Dean Hole, Lyon
+Rose, Dorothy Page Roberts, Madame Edmée Metz, Lady Ashtown, Mrs.
+Charles Custis Harrison, Caroline Testout, La France.
+
+_Yellow_--Duchess of Wellington, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Madame Ravary, Madame
+Mélanie Soupert, Madame Hector Leuillot, Melody.
+
+_Red_--George C. Waud, Lawrent Carle, Gruss an Teplitz, Château de
+Closvoges, Étoile de France.
+
+
+MOSS ROSES
+
+_White_--Blanche Moreau.
+
+_Pink_--Crested Moss.
+
+
+RUGOSA AND ITS HYBRIDS
+
+_White_--Blanc Double de Coubert; _Rosa rugosa_, var. _alba_.
+
+_Pink_--Conrad F. Meyer.
+
+_Red_--Arnold; _Rosa rugosa_, var. _rubra_.
+
+
+WICHURAIANA HYBRIDS
+
+_White_--Wichuraiana, White Dorothy.
+
+_Pink_--Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, W. C. Egan, Sargent.
+
+_Red_--Hiawatha.
+
+
+NOISETTES
+
+_Yellow_--Cloth of Gold, Rêve d'Or (climber), Fortune's Yellow.
+
+
+POLYANTHAS
+
+_White_--Trier, Catherine Ziemet.
+
+_Pink_--Tausendschön, Clothilde Soupert.
+
+_Red_--Carmine Pillar.
+
+
+PRAIRIE ROSES
+
+_White_--Baltimore Belle.
+
+_Pink_--Rosa _setigera_.
+
+
+AUSTRIAN BRIERS
+
+_Yellow_--Harrison's Yellow, Persian Yellow, Austrian Copper.
+
+
+
+
+A GLOSSARY OF TERMS
+
+
+Anther--a rounded knob-like form at the top of the stamen, containing
+the pollen.
+
+Callus--a swelling which occurs at the base of a cutting previous to
+the formation of roots.
+
+Calyx--the narrow green leaves or sepals forming the covering for the
+bud.
+
+Corymb--a group of flower stalks arising from a common stalk and
+forming a level top.
+
+Cutting--a section of a stalk containing several eyes or dormant buds,
+taken for the propagation of a new plant.
+
+Disbud--to deprive a stalk of flower buds by pinching or rubbing these
+off. It is done in order to throw more energy into the remaining bud or
+buds.
+
+Hep or hip--the seed pod.
+
+Hybrid--a new species resulting from the cross-fertilization of two
+species.
+
+Leaflet--a single member of the compound leaf borne by all rose plants.
+
+Maiden plant--a plant blooming for the first time after being budded or
+grafted to a stock.
+
+Ovary--the hollow lower end of a pistil, containing the embryo seeds.
+
+Panicle--a cluster of flowers borne irregularly on a stem.
+
+Petiole--the stalk to which the several leaflets are attached.
+
+Pistil--the seed-bearing organ in the center of a flower, consisting of
+one or more styles, one or more stigmas and the ovary.
+
+Pollen--the powdery substance found in the anthers.
+
+Remontant--applied to roses that flower the second time in a summer.
+
+Sepals--the narrow green leaves of a pithy texture forming the calyx.
+
+Sport--a shoot or sucker from a plant, showing some peculiar feature or
+features distinguishing it from its parent.
+
+Stamens--the male organs surrounding the pistil.
+
+Stigma--the upper end of the pistil, capable of receiving the pollen
+and connected with the ovary by a tube extending down through the
+style.
+
+Style--the erect columnar support of the stigma.
+
+Sucker--a branch or shoot proceeding from the root or stem of a plant,
+below the surface of the ground. Frequently used as meaning a shoot
+from the root-stock of a budded or grafted plant.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Rose Garden, by Henry H. Saylor
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