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diff --git a/36872-8.txt b/36872-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9339c93 --- /dev/null +++ b/36872-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1614 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Rose Garden, by Henry H. Saylor + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Making a Rose Garden + +Author: Henry H. Saylor + +Release Date: July 27, 2011 [EBook #36872] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROSE GARDEN *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +MAKING A ROSE GARDEN + + + +_THE HOUSE & GARDEN MAKING BOOKS_ + + +It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little +volumes, of which _Making a Rose Garden_ is one, a complete library +of authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the +activities of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures +and diagrams will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly +clear the possibility of having, and the means of having, some of +the more important features of a modern country or suburban home. +Among the titles already issued or planned for early publication are +the following: _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis Court_; _Making a +Garden Bloom This Year_; _Making a Fireplace_; _Making Roads and +Paths_; _Making a Poultry House_; _Making a Hotbed and Cold-frame_; +_Making Built-in Bookcases_, _Shelves and Seats_; _Making a Rock +Garden_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making a Perennial Border_; +_Making a Shrubbery Group_; _Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden_; with +others to be announced later. + +[Illustration: An English rose garden that is nearly ideal in its +arrangement. All the paths are of grass, the beds being sunk a few +inches below the turf level in order to conserve the moisture.] + + + + +MAKING A ROSE GARDEN + + +_By_ HENRY H. SAYLOR + + +NEW YORK +McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY +1912 + +COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY +McBRIDE, NAST & CO. + +Published February, 1912 + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +INTRODUCTION 1 + +CLASSIFICATION 3 + +LOCATION AND SOIL 11 + +PREPARATION AND PLANTING 20 + +FERTILIZING 25 + +PRUNING 30 + +PESTS 38 + +PROPAGATION 40 + +WINTER PROTECTION 44 + +LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES 46 + +GLOSSARY OF TERMS 51 + + + + +THE ILLUSTRATIONS + + +A ROSE GARDEN WITH THE IDEAL ARRANGEMENT OF + GRASS PATHS _Frontispiece_ + + FACING PAGE + +ULRICH BRUNNER, A RED HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE 4 + +MARÉCHAL NEIL, A TENDER CLIMBING TEA ROSE 8 + +KILLARNEY, ONE OF THE BEST HYBRID TEAS 12 + +A GARDEN FOR ROSES ONLY 14 + +A DORMANT TEA ROSE AS IT COMES FROM THE GROWER 22 + +A STOCK OF MANETTI GRAFTED WITH AN IMPROVED VARIETY 42 + +A "STANDARD" ROSE 44 + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +I well remember the caution given me by a noted horticulturist when, in +the sudden awakening to the joys of gardening, I was about to attempt +the cultivation of nearly everything named in the largest seed and +plant catalogue I could find: + +"Leave the rose alone; it is not worth fighting for." + +And leave it alone I did, until one day I was browsing about an old +book shop and came upon a well-thumbed copy of good old Dean Hole's "A +Book About Roses." Let me tell you that there is something radically +wrong with the person who can read that book and then go on plodding +along his dreary, roseless way. + +But why, if there is such a book as that to be had, do I presume to put +forth what can at best be but a feeble ray in its predecessor's blaze +of inspiration? Merely because Dean Hole's book, and a later volume by +the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar that is almost as inspiring, with +perhaps even more helpful guidance, are both written for the English +rosarian and for a cool, moist climate that necessitates a somewhat +different method of procedure throughout as compared with that which +would bring success in growing roses here in America. Then too, there +is to my mind something encouraging in a very small book, a book that +will merely attempt to lay the foundations for the superstructure that, +after all, only experience can bring. Perhaps there are those who, like +myself, are content with the bare essentials of classification, content +to be told the basic rudiments of cultivation, and who are in haste to +be done with all of these homely means to an end, that they may begin +growing roses. + + + + +Making a Rose Garden + + + + +CLASSIFICATION + + +When one considers the fact that the majority of botanists recognize +over a hundred species of the genus _Rosa_, and that a French botanist +lists and describes 4,266 species from Europe and western Asia alone, +it will readily be understood that this chapter can give but a rough, +working knowledge of groups and species. + +Fortunately the amateur rosarian in the United States is concerned with +very few of the species, largely for the reason that the efforts of our +rosegrowers have naturally been confined to a few important groups +where general merit is most strongly marked. Indeed, for the purposes +of a modest rose garden, one would not go far wrong if he limited his +choice of varieties to the Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals and a few of +the Teas, with several of the _wichuraiana_ and _rugosa_ hybrids for +trellis and hedge. + +The name Hybrid Perpetual is borne by an enormous group of roses which +have been derived from various species, crossed and recrossed until the +parentage is in most cases hopelessly involved. The "Perpetual" half of +the name signifies that the rose continues to bloom more or less +frequently throughout the summer. As a matter of fact, it is usually +_less_. + +Teas or Tea-scented China roses form a distinct group that is readily +recognized by the characteristic scent of the flowers and by the +smoothness of its leaves. Teas are, in a way, the aristocrats of the +rose garden. They bloom with no great blare of trumpets in June, like +the Perpetuals, but they keep steadily at their work of producing +exquisite blooms, one or two at a time, throughout the summer. Their +one serious handicap is a lack of hardiness, which they possess only in +a slight and very variable degree; and they must be very carefully +protected in the north to bring them safely through the winter. Even +though I were forced to buy new plants each spring, however, I would +not have a rose garden without Teas. + +[Illustration: Ulrich Brunner, a red Hybrid Perpetual that has achieved +an excellent reputation. The H.P. type is characterized by hardiness +and great freedom of bloom in June. Thereafter throughout the summer +the burden of display must be borne by the Teas and Hybrid Teas.] + +Hybrid Teas, as the name signifies, are successful crosses between the +Tea and roses in the Hybrid Perpetual group. This class combines the +persistence of the Tea with the sturdier growth of the Perpetuals, and +from it we shall probably get the great bulk of our garden roses for +some years to come. + +The Moss Rose, of which you will surely want a representative in your +garden, belongs in the Provence group, as will be seen in the tabular +classification at the end of this chapter. Who does not know its +beautiful buds in their setting of mossy stems? This rose, like many a +one that has not gotten such a grip on our affections, has refused +steadfastly to mix its blood with another species, and has retained its +good points and its bad ones for over three hundred years. It is quite +hardy but is rather susceptible to mildew. + +There are other roses, too, outside the larger and best-known +groups--roses that, because of some superlative merit in one direction +or because of past associations, lay a strong hand on our heart-strings +and plead for an obscure corner of the new rose garden: the bristling +Scotch Rose, the fragrant Damasks, the sweetbrier or eglantine with its +inimitable fragrant foliage, the Penzance Brier Hybrids, the White +Banksian of southern gardens with its odor of violets, the Persian +Yellow of our grand-mothers' gardens, and the hundred-petaled Cabbage +Rose, parent of the Moss. + +Climbing roses are to be found in many of the groups--Wichuraiana, +Ayrshire, Polyantha, Musk, Noisette and as sports in the Hybrid +Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid Tea groups. + +It is in another class, however, that we may look for the ideal +American roses of the future. Not many years ago, came to us three +natives of Japan, _Rosa wichuraiana_, _Rosa multiflora_ and _Rosa +rugosa_. From the first two has been developed by our American +hybridizers the race of Ramblers, while from the third has come such +sturdy children as Conrad F. Meyer, perhaps the ideal hedge rose for +our northern climate. In the estimation of Professor Charles S. +Sargent, the dean of American horticulture, it is along the line of +_rugosa_ hybrids that we shall succeed in filling our gardens with +large, beautiful, hardy and continuously flowering roses. + +The climate of the South and California seems ideally suited to the +Teas, producing a wealth of exquisite bloom that fills those of us that +live in more trying surroundings with envy. In the South also they have +the Cherokee Rose (_Rosa lævigata_ or _sinica_), flourishing along +roadsides and in great masses on the prairies, its long, arching stems +bearing a wealth of pure white, single flowers, four or five inches +across, in a setting of brilliant, evergreen foliage. It is one of our +American hybridizers' hopes and aims to cross this with a hardy rose to +gain sufficient stamina for the North. + +And out in Oregon, the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas grow to a size +and beauty that is unsurpassed the world over. Practically every kind +of rose can be grown in the Puget Sound district, and the amateurs of +that locality seem to have as little trouble with rose pests as we do +here with our hardy decorative shrubs. + +[Illustration: Marechal Neil, a tender climbing Tea rose, dark +golden-yellow in color, requires winter protection in the North. The +Tea is the aristocrat of the rose garden, unapproached for delicate +fragrance, refined form of the individual blooms, and continued +flowering throughout the summer.] + +To sum up the whole matter of classification and to show the relative +positions of many groups that, for lack of space, have not even been +mentioned above, the following tabular key is given--a slightly +modified form of the classification given in the Cyclopedia of American +Horticulture: + + _I. Summer-flowering Roses, blooming once only_ + + A. Large-flowered (double). + + 1. Growth branching or pendulous; leaf wrinkled. + _Provence_ + Moss + Pompon + Sulphurea + + 2. Growth firm and robust; leaf downy. + _Damask and French_ + Hybrid French + Hybrid Provence + Hybrid Bourbon + Hybrid China + + 3. Growth free; leaf whitish above; spineless. + _Alba_ + + B. Small-flowered (single and double). + + 1. Growth climbing; flowers produced singly. + _Ayrshire_ + + 2. Growth short-jointed, generally, except in Alpine. + _Briers_ + Austrian + Scotch + Sweet + Penzance + Prairie + Alpine + + 3. Growth climbing; flowers in clusters. + _Multiflora_ + Polyantha + + 4. Growth free; foliage persistent (more or less shiny). + _Evergreen_ + Sempervirens + Wichuraiana + Cherokee + Banksian + + 5. Growth free; foliage wrinkled. + _Pompon_ + + + _II. Summer- and Autumn-flowering Roses, blooming more or less + continuously_ + + A. Large-flowered. + + 1. Foliage very rough. + _Hybrid Perpetual_ + _Hybrid Tea_ + _Moss_ + + 2. Foliage rough. + _Bourbon_ + _Bourbon Perpetual_ + + 3. Foliage smooth. + _China_ + Tea + Lawrenceana (Fairy) + + B. Smaller-flowered. + + 1. Foliage deciduous + + a. Habit climbing. + _Musk_ + Noisette + _Ayrshire_ + _Polyantha_ + Wichuraiana Hybrids + + b. Habit dwarf, bushy. + _Perpetual Briers_ + Rugosa + Lucida + Microphylla + Berberidifolia + Scotch + + 2. Foliage more or less persistent. + _Evergreen_ + Macartney + Wichuraiana + + + + +LOCATION AND SOIL + + +If there is any secret in connection with the growing of beautiful +roses in abundance, it lies in the strict observance of a few +fundamental principles through which the rose plants, or bushes if you +will, are given a location and soil which they will find congenial and +nourishing. If for one moment you may have thought that success depends +upon some particular insecticide for the annihilation of the aphis, or +some hard-and-fast rule for pruning, or the use of a fertilizer having +magical attributes, dismiss that thought from your mind, once and for +all time. Insecticides, judicious pruning and suitable manuring have +each an important part in the campaign, but transcending all of these +is the first choice of location and the preparation of the garden in +which the roses are to grow. Warfare against the rose's enemies can be +but a one-sided, hopeless struggle if we are working against nature all +the way through. Far easier and more certain in effect will be our +first efforts to establish the rose plants themselves so firmly in +healthful, congenial surroundings that they, rather than we, will bear +the brunt of the battle against the insect pests. + +In China I am told that a custom once prevailed whereby the emperor +paid his physician a good salary as long as the ruler kept his good +health. If he fell ill the physician's pay stopped; if he died, off +came the practitioner's head. + +Be generous in the amount of thought and care you give in providing +health, food and strength for your rose plants, and as a result you +will have to give very little thought and care to curing disease and +killing off the rose-bugs and slugs. + +In the first place let us take up the matter of situation. +Unfortunately most of us will have little leeway in this, for the +average suburban place is not one that will offer hill and valley, +windswept open space and warm shelter. The ideal location is to be +found neither on a hilltop where the winter winds would play havoc with +our winter protection, nor in a low hollow where frosts are always more +frequent. A gentle slope to the south, well above nearby low spots into +which the cold air will drain, sheltered in some way from the north, +would be all that we could ask. In the matter of this shelter, however, +we meet a further difficulty, for our rose garden must be kept well +away from any trees. It is a matter of common knowledge that the root +system of a tree will, as a rule, extend as far out from the base as +the tree rises about the ground. Obviously it would be merely a waste +of time and effort to locate the rose garden where the hungry roots of +trees would rob it of the food supply furnished the roses. In general, +therefore, we shall have to use the wall of a house or a garden wall +for our needed protection, though in case of necessity we could sink a +masonry wall or an iron plate as a barrier between the upper rich soil +of our rose beds and the roots of the sheltering trees. + +[Illustration: Killarney, the comparatively new Hybrid Tea rose, having +a beautiful shell-pink color, has achieved a wide popularity. The +Hybrid Tea combines in a measure the hardiness of the Hybrid Perpetual +with the continuous flowering habit of the Tea.] + +Sun, it is perhaps unnecessary to say, is essential, though it will be +found that if the beds are in shade for the first part of the morning +one will have greater opportunity of enjoying the roses at their +best--before the dew has been drunk from their petals by the thirsty +midsummer rays. + +The matter of the size and design of the rose bed is of comparatively +little importance; what really is vital, however, is that the roses be +permitted to have the beds to themselves--absolutely. But recently I +read a magazine article purporting to be good advice for the +rose-growing amateur. Therein appeared words of regret that the rose +must needs have such bare, gaunt stalks, and suggesting as a remedy the +growing of some vine about the base of the bush--I am not sure, indeed, +that the honeysuckle was not specifically named for the place. I can +well imagine that the result might be a very beautiful honeysuckle, but +we should look there for the rose in vain. + +[Illustration: Keep the roses by themselves; they will not only thrive +better, but their beauty seems not to be increased by comparison with +other flowers.] + +The Queen of Flowers will brook no liberties of this kind. She insists +upon reigning alone in her glory, and anyone who dares presume to +introduce even a low-growing, shallow-rooted ground cover with the +intention of making the rose bed seem less bare, will never see his +roses at their best. Personally I have never felt that a rose garden +need be in the least unattractive. There is one type of beauty that +might be represented by a carpet of creeping phlox; there is another +that belongs to the rose garden, bearing its single blooms here and +there, sparsely, among the green foliage and thorny stems. In the +former instance one looks at the mass effect without a thought of the +beauty of individual flowers; in the latter case one's glance seeks out +instinctively the single bloom to drink in its beauty and fragrance. +Ah, but you say, how about the time when there is not a single rose in +sight? There need be no such time between spring and fall if you plant +your rose garden to best advantage. There is no need nor reason to put +all the June-blooming roses together, with the Teas and Hybrid Teas off +by themselves in another place. If the remontant types are interspersed +throughout your garden you need never, between May and October, look +for a rose in vain. + +The shape of the beds, too, may be such as to avoid an appearance of +"too much dirt" in the rose garden. For my own part I would have a +rectangular garden and simple parallelograms for the beds, although the +rose garden about a central feature has its strong attractions. But if +you arrange the beds in long narrow units--four feet wide for a double +row of plants or twenty inches wide for a single row, and as long as +your purse will allow, having the paths between the rows of turf rather +than gravel or brick, and the beds slightly sunk below this turf, the +rose garden need never be less than most attractive. Avoid beds wider +than will accommodate two rows of plants, for it is essential that +every rose bush in the garden be immediately accessible from a path. + +[Illustration: A suggestion for a rectangular rose garden with paths of +turf. The beds are about forty inches wide, the paths four feet, +excepting the center one, which is five feet in width. A hedge, which +might be of _rugosa_, contributes a desirable air of seclusion.] + +To those intensely practical persons who object to walking through +dew-wet paths in the morning tour of the rose garden, let me point out +the obvious impossibility of having gravel paths immediately adjacent +to the rose beds, and the continued care required to keep in a +presentable condition a narrow strip of sod between path and bed. + +Now as to the preparation of the rose bed itself. First of all, dig the +soil out to a depth of two feet at least, keeping the top soil and sods +and the subsoil in separate piles as they are taken out. Loosen up the +floor of the trench with a pick and on this, if the ground needs +draining, which it will if it is a compact, sodden surface, put a layer +of stones, cinders and other material that will not decompose. On top +of this place the best of the sub-soil mixed with a generous dressing +of well-rotted manure. Finally, add the sod, well broken up, and the +top soil, also enriched with manure. Then fill in the bed with enough +good top soil, unmanured, to bring it two or three inches above the +adjoining surface. Make sure that the surface of the bed, after it has +settled, will be about one inch below that of the adjoining sod in +order to retain the moisture from rain. This preparation of the bed +should be done at least several weeks in advance of planting time. + +In composing the soil for the rose bed, it is well to remember that the +Hybrid Perpetuals require a heavy soil containing some clay. For Teas +and Hybrid Teas a lighter, warmer soil is better. In his most admirable +"Book of the Rose," the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar tells an amusing +incident in connection with soil. The good rector was dining out and +had been served with a generous portion of plum pudding. It was very +dark, rich, strong and greasy. Absent-mindedly he sat back in his chair +gazing at the dish intently. His hostess, noticing his hesitancy, asked +if anything were wrong with the pudding. "Oh, no," replied the rector +unthinkingly, "I was thinking what rare stuff it would be to grow roses +in." + +Top soil from an old pasture, if it be a moderately heavy loam, taken +with the grass roots and chopped very fine, will do excellently for the +Hybrid Perpetuals. For the Teas and Hybrid Teas, mix with soil of this +kind about one-quarter of its bulk of sand and leaf mold to lighten it. +Remember that all the manure that is used should be incorporated with +the lower two-thirds of the bed; the upper third should not contain any +recently added manure as it is apt to harm the roots of new plants. + + + + +PREPARATION AND PLANTING + + +In the vicinity of New York and further north, I think it will be found +that spring planting is best. South of Philadelphia many roses are set +out in the fall, for here they become well established before cold +weather sets in, and are therefore ready to start active growth at the +first touch of spring. + +If spring planting is chosen the plants must be put in the ground +early--at the very first opportunity--so that they will have time to +become firmly established before hot weather. Pot-grown plants from a +greenhouse cannot, of course, be set out until all danger from frost is +past. Roses that are planted so late cannot be expected to show really +satisfying results in bloom the first year. Roses that are planted +early in the spring, if field-grown stock as explained below, will with +proper cultivation give at least a reasonable amount of bloom the first +year, though not so much as in later years. + +One hears a great deal of argument on the question of whether roses are +best grown on their own roots or when grown on a sturdier stock, such +as Manetti for Hybrid Perpetuals and brier for Hybrid Teas, which are +probably the best rose stocks for this country. It seems to be the +general consensus of opinion that roses budded on these stocks will +thrive much more luxuriantly and give much better blooms than those +which depend upon their own root systems. It is necessary, however, to +set the point at which the shoot is budded to the stock about two +inches beneath the surface; otherwise there is the constant danger that +suckers will spring from the root and, if overlooked for a time, these +will kill the more desirable shoots. + +Several kinds of roses are offered by the dealers for setting out in +the spring. There are the pot-grown roses mentioned above--the only +form in which many of the climbers may be readily obtained. Mail-order +houses make a practice of sending out the Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid +Teas and Teas also in this form of very young plants grown from +cuttings under glass during the winter. Costing more, and surely far +more dependable, are the field-grown roses that have originally been +budded on Manetti or brier and, usually in two-year-old form, taken out +of the ground the previous fall while dormant, to lie in cold houses +until ready for planting. Such roses as these will surely bloom the +first season and are far better equipped for the shock of being set +into the open ground again than the pot-grown plants that have never +had a taste of real garden life. + +A word of warning might profitably be uttered against the cheap roses +budded on _multiflora_ stock, grown in Holland and sold in some of the +department stores. They are short-lived and very poor in comparison +with plants on brier and Manetti. _Multiflora_ has been entirely +discarded as a stock by English and Irish growers. + +Roses on their own roots have the advantage of being cheaper, due to the +saving of labor in striking cuttings rather than budding--one-year-old +plants costing a dollar for six to a dozen; two-year and three-year-old +bushes, which are, of course, far more desirable, cost more in +proportion. Dormant, field-grown budded roses cost, in the two-year-old +size, from thirty-five cents to a dollar each. + +[Illustration: A dormant Tea rose as it is received from the grower for +planting in March. After planting it should be still further pruned.] + +Before setting the plants examine each carefully and cut off the broken +roots with a sharp knife, as well as all eyes that may appear on the +root stock, in order to forestall suckers. The plants should be set +immediately upon their receipt from the nurseryman, so that they will +not become dried out. If they seem dry it may be well to puddle the +roots in thin mud just before setting. Make the hole large enough to +accommodate all of the plant's roots without crowding, remembering to +put the budding point not less or more than two inches below the +surface and with the roots spread out nearly horizontally, but +inclining downward towards their ends and without crossing one another. +This will not be an easy matter, for in shipment the roots will have +probably been so compressed that they extend almost directly downward +from the collar. After the plants have been firmly set and the earth +carefully packed in around the roots, rake the soil to loosen it up +over the whole surface. The soil will probably be moist enough at the +time to need no watering. + +With the pot-grown plants, the moist ball of earth that comes about the +roots is carefully retained intact and placed in the hole prepared for +the plant. Set the plant firmly in place by pressure with the soles of +your shoes, give a generous watering and finally break up the surface +of the soil with a rake. + +It is absolutely essential to keep the surface of the ground loosened +with a hoe and a sharp steel rake throughout the summer. After very +hard rain loosen the soil as soon as it is dry enough to work, to +conserve the moisture. + + + + +FERTILIZING + + +In striking contrast to the exquisite beauty of the rose is the food +that we must give it in abundance if we would have the most healthy +plants. But for the true rose enthusiast the turning over of a muck +heap to find manure in just the right form, or the dilution of the +by-products of the cow barn with water to make the best stimulant, have +nothing about them that is in the least objectionable. + +If the soil at our disposal is inclined to be rich in clay, we can +probably do no better than incorporate well-decomposed stable manure +with it, by raking it, well pulverized, into the surface in the early +spring. In sandy or gravelly soils, however, cow manure or that from +the pigsty will serve far better. It must be remembered that when +properly set out the rose plant is comparatively shallow-rooted, so +that this raking of fine old manure into the soil must be just that, +and _not_ the deep digging of half-rotted manure into the bed with +a spading-fork. The aim in the method advocated is to put the solid +manure where the spring rains will carry it in time to the feeding +roots, and in the liquid form in which it is readily assimilated. + +The theory of this manurial feeding will make clear the fact that a +proper application of liquid manure has practically all the advantages +of the former method without its drawbacks. For solid manure, if +applied to the beds in quantities sufficient to be of real value, has a +tendency to keep the needed air out of the top soil, and to bring in +its train an abundance of weeds that will be hard to exterminate. So +that, with the exception of light sandy soils, where the humus is +needed, we shall do well to feed the rose garden liquid nourishment. + +The time when this stimulant will be most effective is in the months of +May and June, when most of the plants are putting all their efforts +into the forming buds. Withhold the liquid in dry spells, for it is +most appreciated immediately after a good, soaking rain. + +Avoid getting the manure on the foliage, and make sure that it errs on +the side of weakness rather than strength. Suspending a burlap sack +containing a bushel of cow manure in a barrel of water for two days, +will give a solution that needs dilution with its own bulk of water. A +half-gallon to a plant each week will be a sufficient normal feeding. + +Immediately after dosing the beds go over them with a rake or prong-hoe +and loosen up the surface to prevent evaporation. + +A vital principle in feeding rose plants is one that seems to be +overlooked instinctively by seven out of ten amateur gardeners. It is +this: A strong-growing, healthy plant needs and will absorb a large +quantity of liquid manure; a sickly plant, or one that is not yet well +established, does not need and cannot absorb even the normal quantity +of this food. Yet how often are we tempted to feed to excess this +weakling and withhold food from that nearby sturdy bush, because the +latter "doesn't need it." Just bear in mind the fact that we do not +give burgundy to a puny child that is struggling against the effects of +malnutrition, but that a healthy, growing boy can consume an +astonishing amount of food and drink. + +To review the year's activities in fertilizing: let us put a top +dressing of rough manure over the beds in the fall, about three inches +deep, with further protection where the climate demands it. In the +spring we shall rake off the coarse portion of this covering, leaving +the finely pulverized manure to be raked gently into the top soil if it +needs this additional humus (the manure's food value will have been +washed down by the winter's rain and snow). If our soil is clayey the +whole top dressing will be hoed off. In May and June come the generous +applications of the liquid manure, and for the Teas and Perpetuals that +really do continue to flower, these applications may well be continued +through the summer at less frequent intervals, leaving off at the end +of August, let us say, so as not to encourage unnecessarily the late +summer's growth of wood. + +Although not many of us, in all probability, will meet the unusual +condition of having for our rose gardens only an over-fertilized soil +in a long-used garden, it may be well to mention the fact that such a +soil will not produce good roses. Treatment with lime will help matters +for a time, but if within the range of possibility we should remake the +garden with virgin soil. + +The use of nitrate of soda and like stimulants may be undertaken +sparingly in the spring, but these are better left to those gardeners +who have learned, possibly through disastrous experiences, how properly +to use them. + + + + +PRUNING + + +The rose is one of those plants that seem to need the firm hand of man +to direct them in the way they should grow. If left to their own +devices, most of the highly cultivated roses revert quickly to lower +types; they need the pitiless pruning-knife to spur them to their best +endeavor. + +It will readily be seen that severe pruning, as a general principle, +tends towards greater beauty of individual blooms, while light pruning +is conducive to a better rounded-out form of bush at the expense of the +flowers. Or, again, the severe pruning gives quality of bloom as +opposed to quantity of bloom. + +Always cut back the plants severely when first setting them out--Teas +and Hybrid Teas less than the Hybrid Perpetuals, and the climbers least +of all. + +Unreasonable as it may seem, the plants of vigorous habit of growth +need less pruning than the less active ones. + +Pruning may be started with the dwarf Hybrid perpetuals in +March--leaving four or five canes three feet in length if large masses +of bloom are wanted. The result will be a large number of small +flowers. If, on the other hand, fewer and larger flowers are wanted, +all weak growth should be removed and every healthy cane retained and +cut back in preparation for the plant's development. The weakest should +not have more than four inches of wood left on the root, while the +strongest may have eight or nine inches. Always prune a cane about a +quarter of an inch above an outside bud unless the cane is very far +from the vertical, when an inside one should be left for the terminal +shoot. See that the wood is not torn or bruised in the operation. + +The pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas had better be postponed until the +first signs of life appear. The bark becomes greener and the dormant +buds begin to swell. Dead or dying wood will then readily be noticeable +and it may be removed. Remember that these two classes do not need such +severe pruning as do the Hybrid Perpetuals; twice the amount of wood +may safely be left if it seems promising. + +Dormant rose plants bought in the spring will arrive from the growers +already partly pruned. In general, from one-half to two-thirds of the +remaining length of cane should be cut off when the plants are set out, +removing entirely all bruised or dead wood. Bear in mind always, if +your conscience revolts at such severe cutting, that the strongest +dormant buds are nearest the base of the plant and it is these we want +to force into growth to bear the prize blooms. + +With the ramblers very little cutting is needed; merely cut back the +shoots that seem to be outdistancing their neighbors by too much, and +cut out entirely the dead canes. + +The _rugosa_ is intended to be a bush rather than a strong, lean plant +for prize blooms. Merely cut out old, dry wood and trim back the longer +shoots to the desired form. + +Use a first-class pair of pruning shears in order that the work may be +done quickly and, above all, with clean cuts that show no tearing or +abrasion of the bark. + + + + +PESTS + + +Once more let me repeat the fact that by far the most effective +campaign against the insects and other pests that infest rose plants is +to be found, not in sprayings and dustings, but rather in maintaining +to the best of our ability a condition of health in the plant itself. +Prevention here, as always, is better than cure. Nor can it be too +strongly emphasized that the daily use of a powerful but finely divided +spray from the hose will make life on the rose plant miserable for +practically all of the parasites. + +The following are the chief enemies that we may encounter in the rose +garden. They are briefly described so as to be recognizable when found, +and for the annihilation or keeping in check of each is given one of +the many remedies. Practically every rosarian develops, after a time, +his own pet formulæ for these poisons, so that rose books will be found +to contain a wonderfully varied assortment of weapons--so numerous in +fact that one would think the army of rose pests could never live to +continue their depredations another season. + + +_Aphis or Green Fly_ + +A small, pale green louse, winged or wingless, with a soft, fat, oval +body apparently too big for its legs. A single aphis in five +generations may become the progenitor of 6,000,000,000. + +Tobacco smoke is an excellent weapon, or, if a spray is found more +convenient to apply, a solution of 4 oz. of tobacco stems boiled for 10 +min. in 1 gal. of soft water, will do. The same weight of quassia chips +may be substituted for the tobacco. If the tobacco is used, the +cheapest that can be bought is the best for the purpose. Strain the +solution and add 4 oz. of soft soap while it is still hot, stirring +well to dissolve the soap. + +Another remedy--1 qt. of soft soap boiled in 2 qts. of soft water, +adding 1 pt. of paraffin before cooling--is well recommended. It should +be applied diluted with soft water to ten times its bulk. The paraffin +acts as an astringent which, together with the soft soap, cleanses the +plant of honey-dew, which is exuded by the aphis to protect its feet +against cold and wet. + + +_Mildew_ + +A fungous disease that may appear when the rose plants are in a damp, +shady or ill-ventilated location. Although some varieties are more +susceptible than others to this disease, the rose garden located out in +the open, where the air has unobstructed access, will not be troubled +much by mildew. When the disease appears late in the autumn it need not +be feared. + +Dusting flowers of sulphur upon the foliage, taking care to reach the +under side of leaves as well as the upper, and upon the ground about +the plants, is a well established remedy. It will be found convenient +to shake the powder from a baking-powder can, the end of which is +punched with holes, if a regular powder gun is not at hand. Use the +sulphur in the early morning, when the dew will help to hold it on the +leaves, or else spray the plants with water beforehand. + + +_Rose Thrip_ + +A small, yellowish white insect with transparent wings, usually found +on the _under_ side of the rose leaves. This pest appears in swarms and +in an astonishingly short time turns the foliage yellow. + +If the pest appears, spray the rose plants daily with a hose as +suggested above. If this does not prove efficacious, dust the under +side of the leaves with white hellebore in a powder gun. Whale oil soap +solution, in the proportions of 5 oz. of soap to 1 gal. of water, is a +very good remedy. It is easier to dissolve the soap if the water is +hot. + + +_Rose Caterpillar or Leaf-roller_ + +Several kinds of caterpillars may appear, varying from one-half to +three-quarters of an inch in length, and either green, yellow or brown +in color. They have a habit of enveloping themselves in the rose +leaves, or boring their way into the flower buds. In the latter case +they are very apt to be overlooked. + +Powdered hellebore will hinder their progress, but by far the most +effective weapons are the finger and thumb--gloved, if you insist. + + +_Rose Chafer or Rose-bug_ + +This brown beetle, less than one-half inch in length, is one of the +best-known rose pests. It is a slow-moving creature that appears +suddenly in armies in the blooming season in June, and is the more +annoying for the reason that it devotes its attention almost entirely +to the flowers themselves. + +Paris green, dusted over the plants, will kill the pest, but this +poison has a disagreeable way of showing no intelligent discrimination +in the choice of its victims. Really the only satisfactory method of +attack is to knock the stupid creatures off the flowers into a tin of +kerosene and then burn it. + + +_Rose Slug_ + +The larvæ of a saw-fly which comes up out of the ground in May and +June. The female makes incisions in the leaves and deposits her eggs, +which hatch out in about two weeks. The slugs will eat an astonishing +amount of leaf if not checked. They are about a half-inch long, green, +and will be found on the upper side of the leaf. + +Powdered white hellebore, dusted on the foliage, or the solution of +whale oil soap mentioned for the Rose Thrip, will keep it in check. + + +_White Grub_ + +An underground enemy that feeds on the roots of rose plants. The +withering or sickliness of the plant is sufficient reason to cause a +thorough search to be made by lifting it. The grub, which is provided +with six legs near the head, and which coils itself into a crescent +shape when in repose, is particularly fond of strawberry plants, so it +will be well to keep these some distance away from the rose garden. + +There is no insecticide that will be effective, because of the +underground point of attack. Lifting the plant and removing the grub is +the only thing that can be done. + + +_Bark Louse or White Scale_ + +This appears when the rose bush is grown in a damp, shady place. It is +snow white and individual scales are about one-tenth of an inch in +diameter, irregularly round. + +Cut off and burn badly infested shoots. Spray with 1 lb. of soap in 1 +gal. of water in early winter and again in early spring. Weaker summer +applications may be used also--1 lb. in 4 or 6 gal. once in three weeks +throughout the season will reach all the larvæ. + + +_Our Allies_ + +It is well to remember that there are friends of the rose in the lower +animal world as well as enemies--the toad, lady-bug, ground-bird and +swallow, particularly. The toad is sometimes brought by the English +gardeners from a distance to help wage war on the pests; the lady-bug +may be passed thankfully by when seen; and it may be well to try +attracting the birds to the rose garden by scattering a few crumbs +there daily--not too many, but just enough to arouse a real appetite +for insect pests. + + + + +PROPAGATION + + +The propagation of his own stock is a task for which the expert is +better fitted than the beginner for whom this book is written. +Nevertheless, I doubt whether the amateur will pass through his first +year of rose growing without wishing to make an attempt to multiply the +stock of those roses which have with him been most successful, or to +bud a choice variety from a friend's garden on the foster-parent stock +for his own place. + +Whereas in England the process of budding is carried on very widely and +with fair success among amateur and professional rosarians alike, with +us this means of propagation seems fraught with greater difficulty. +Excepting in the case of varieties that do not readily root from +cuttings, this latter method of propagation is generally adopted where +roses on their own roots are desired. + +The best time for taking cuttings from a plant is towards the end of +the summer, when the ripe wood of the current year's growth will be +available. Ten inches is a convenient length for the pieces and some +rosarians feel that if a "heel," or portion of older wood, remains on +the lower end there will be greater likelihood of rooting. Remove all +but the two top leaves and set the cutting in a light soil, or even in +pure sand, so that only the two upper buds are exposed. Leave the +cuttings in the ground until the following autumn, when those that have +taken root may be transplanted and set at a less depth in their +permanent quarters. + +Budding is a far more interesting process to carry through, and by it +we may have sturdier roses on a stock like Manetti or brier. A very +sharp knife is required, with some raffia for tying the bud securely +into the stock. In the limited scope of this book I can but indicate +very roughly the general procedure, and, indeed, budding is far more +readily learned by watching a skilled rosarian do it than by reading +many pages of description. Briefly, then, a bud, which may be found +under any petiole, is carefully sliced, with its surrounding bark and +backing of wood, from the half-ripe stalk of the variety to be +propagated, leaving the petiole in place to serve as a handle. This is +probably best done in July. After removing very gently the wood backing +from the bark and bud, the latter are slipped into a T-shaped incision +in the foster stock, this incision to be made through the bark to the +actual wood of the stalk. The bud and its supporting bark are inserted +between the wood and bark of the stock, the latter then being wrapped +with a few turns of raffia to hold the bud in place. After a period of +a month the bud will either have taken hold or failed, and the tie may +be removed. + +The rose plants that we buy already budded on Manetti or brier are +produced in this way, excepting that the bud is inserted very low on +the stock, so that the junction will be underground. This is the more +desirable place for budding, insuring, if we nip the suckers as they +may appear, a plant that above ground shows only the shoots of the +desired variety. + +[Illustration: A shoot of an improved variety of rose grafted and held +in place with raffia to the stock of a sturdy growth like Manetti. At +the right is a "sucker" or growth from the root, and it must be cut off +as soon as it appears.] + +Grafting is practiced only in the case of roses grown under glass, when +the scions are cleft into stocks of Manetti or brier grown in pots for +the purpose. + +Layering is used as a means of increasing the stock only in the case of +roses that do not readily strike from cuttings. It consists of bending +down a long shoot so that a section of it may be pegged underground to +take root. + +Propagation by seed is limited to the efforts to obtain new varieties +after cross-fertilization, and is a discouragingly slow and uncertain +process. + + + + +WINTER PROTECTION + + +It will be a red-letter day for amateur rosarians when the existing +favorites among rose plants shall have been so improved by +cross-breeding that we can leave off all the winter overcoats of straw, +brush and earth, with the happy knowledge that spring will find as many +live plants in the rose garden as we rejoiced in during the previous +season. + +[Illustration: In England the "standard" rose, having a long stem of +the foster stock, is quite common. With us it is less frequently seen +on account of the bother of proper winter protection.] + +Although the Hybrid Perpetuals are, for the most part, sufficiently +hardy to withstand an ordinary winter unprotected, it is still the part +of wisdom to conserve their energy and health by hoeing up the earth +about their bases and putting over all a top dressing of rough manure +when protecting the Hybrid Teas and Teas. In the northern states it +will be well to tie up the tops of the latter with straw or to surround +the bed with a border of boards or wire netting, after winter has set +in, and cover the plants with a thick blanket of leaves held down by +brush. This protection should be removed gradually in March. + +Where the winters are particularly severe, a still more certain +precaution is to dig up the plants and lay them in well-drained +trenches, covering them with earth and a further layer of leaves, straw +or brush. The aim is not to protect the plants from freezing at all, +but to prevent the alternate freezing and thawing that is so +disastrous. + +Another treatment for tender roses is to winter them in boxes of soil +in a cool cellar. In case this is done, see that the earth is not +allowed to dry out entirely. At planting time in the spring the dormant +plants will be taken out, dipped in a bucket of thin mud and replanted +in the garden. + +While we may be willing for the present to take such precautions with +the garden roses, most of us will not care to coddle the climbers to +anything like this extent. Beyond hoeing up a mound of earth about the +bases of these and top-dressing them, we shall let the climbers fight +their own battles, and leave the result to the principle of the +survival of the fittest. + + + + +LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES + + +It is a difficult matter, indeed, to select, from the experience of +rose growers and from the long lists of the nurserymen's catalogues, a +few that may be safely named as the best roses. In fact, it is a task +that no one would care to undertake. It may be helpful, however, to add +the following list; these are by no means the only good roses, but in +choosing any or all of these the amateur cannot well go astray. For the +benefit of his experience and advice regarding these lists, I am +indebted, among others, to Dr. Robert Huey, of Philadelphia--probably +the most experienced amateur grower of roses in the United States. + +It has been thought best not to attempt individual descriptions nor to +go very far into details of color. The lists, then, are grouped into +rough sub-divisions under the main colors, and it will be understood +that "pink," for instance, will include a rather wide range of varying +tints. + + +HYBRID PERPETUALS + +_White_--Merveille de Lyon, White Baroness, Frau Karl Druschki, +Margaret Dickson, Mabel Morrison, Gloire Lyonnaise (in reality a Hybrid +Tea, but as it blooms only in June it may be included in the Hybrid +Perpetual class). + +_Pink_--Baroness Rothschild, Caroline D'Arden, Heinrich Schultheis, Her +Majesty, Lady Arthur Hill, Mrs. George Dickson, Mrs. Harkness, Susan +Marie Rodocanachi, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Neyron, Marie Finges, Marquise +de Castellane, Mrs. R. S. Sharman-Crawford, Souvenir de la Malmaison. + +_Red_--Captain Hayward, Fisher Holmes, General Jacqueminot, Oscar +Cordel, Ulrich Brunner, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Teck, Anne de +Diesbach, Duke of Fife, Étienne Levet, Prince Arthur, Ard's Rover +(climber). + +Prince Camille de Rohan is the best of the very dark roses, among which +also are Sultan of Zanzibar, Louis Van Houtte, and Xavier Olibo. These, +however, are weak growers and frequently do not bring their blossoms to +perfection. + + +TEAS + +_White_--White Maman Cochet, Hon. Edith Gifford. + +_Pink_--William R. Smith, Maman Cochet, Souvenir d'un Ami, Duchesse de +Brabant, Mrs. B. R. Cant. + +_Yellow_--Harry Kirk, Étoile de Lyon, Francisca Krueger, Isabelle +Sprunt, Safrano, Marie Van Houtte. + + +HYBRID TEAS + +_White or light-colored and mixed_--Viscountess Folkestone, Pharisaer, +Molly Sharman-Crawford, Ellen Wilmot, Grace Molyneaux, Antoine Revoire, +Joseph Hill, Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Betty, Prince de Bulgarie, La Tosca, +Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. + +_Pink_--Killarney, Lady Alice Stanley, Lady Ursula, Dean Hole, Lyon +Rose, Dorothy Page Roberts, Madame Edmée Metz, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. +Charles Custis Harrison, Caroline Testout, La France. + +_Yellow_--Duchess of Wellington, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Madame Ravary, Madame +Mélanie Soupert, Madame Hector Leuillot, Melody. + +_Red_--George C. Waud, Lawrent Carle, Gruss an Teplitz, Château de +Closvoges, Étoile de France. + + +MOSS ROSES + +_White_--Blanche Moreau. + +_Pink_--Crested Moss. + + +RUGOSA AND ITS HYBRIDS + +_White_--Blanc Double de Coubert; _Rosa rugosa_, var. _alba_. + +_Pink_--Conrad F. Meyer. + +_Red_--Arnold; _Rosa rugosa_, var. _rubra_. + + +WICHURAIANA HYBRIDS + +_White_--Wichuraiana, White Dorothy. + +_Pink_--Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, W. C. Egan, Sargent. + +_Red_--Hiawatha. + + +NOISETTES + +_Yellow_--Cloth of Gold, Rêve d'Or (climber), Fortune's Yellow. + + +POLYANTHAS + +_White_--Trier, Catherine Ziemet. + +_Pink_--Tausendschön, Clothilde Soupert. + +_Red_--Carmine Pillar. + + +PRAIRIE ROSES + +_White_--Baltimore Belle. + +_Pink_--Rosa _setigera_. + + +AUSTRIAN BRIERS + +_Yellow_--Harrison's Yellow, Persian Yellow, Austrian Copper. + + + + +A GLOSSARY OF TERMS + + +Anther--a rounded knob-like form at the top of the stamen, containing +the pollen. + +Callus--a swelling which occurs at the base of a cutting previous to +the formation of roots. + +Calyx--the narrow green leaves or sepals forming the covering for the +bud. + +Corymb--a group of flower stalks arising from a common stalk and +forming a level top. + +Cutting--a section of a stalk containing several eyes or dormant buds, +taken for the propagation of a new plant. + +Disbud--to deprive a stalk of flower buds by pinching or rubbing these +off. It is done in order to throw more energy into the remaining bud or +buds. + +Hep or hip--the seed pod. + +Hybrid--a new species resulting from the cross-fertilization of two +species. + +Leaflet--a single member of the compound leaf borne by all rose plants. + +Maiden plant--a plant blooming for the first time after being budded or +grafted to a stock. + +Ovary--the hollow lower end of a pistil, containing the embryo seeds. + +Panicle--a cluster of flowers borne irregularly on a stem. + +Petiole--the stalk to which the several leaflets are attached. + +Pistil--the seed-bearing organ in the center of a flower, consisting of +one or more styles, one or more stigmas and the ovary. + +Pollen--the powdery substance found in the anthers. + +Remontant--applied to roses that flower the second time in a summer. + +Sepals--the narrow green leaves of a pithy texture forming the calyx. + +Sport--a shoot or sucker from a plant, showing some peculiar feature or +features distinguishing it from its parent. + +Stamens--the male organs surrounding the pistil. + +Stigma--the upper end of the pistil, capable of receiving the pollen +and connected with the ovary by a tube extending down through the +style. + +Style--the erect columnar support of the stigma. + +Sucker--a branch or shoot proceeding from the root or stem of a plant, +below the surface of the ground. Frequently used as meaning a shoot +from the root-stock of a budded or grafted plant. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Rose Garden, by Henry H. Saylor + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A ROSE GARDEN *** + +***** This file should be named 36872-8.txt or 36872-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/8/7/36872/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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