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<title>
The Project Gutenberg eBook of Claret and Olives, by Angus B. Reach.
@@ -127,48 +127,7 @@ em.gesperrt
<body>
-
-
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the
-Rhone, by Angus B. Reach
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: Claret and Olives, from the Garonne to the Rhone
- Notes, social, picturesque, and legendary, by the way.
-
-Author: Angus B. Reach
-
-Release Date: September 29, 2013 [EBook #43844]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CLARET AND OLIVES ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Matthias Grammel, Ann Jury and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43844 ***</div>
<p class="pmb3"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
@@ -293,7 +252,7 @@ GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET.
Chatel-morant&mdash;The Resin Harvest&mdash;The Witches of
the Landes&mdash;The Surf of the Bay of Biscay&mdash;French
Priests&mdash;Do the Landes Cows give Milk?&mdash;The <i>Amour
- Patriæ</i> of the Landes</span></p><br /></td>
+ Patriæ</i> of the Landes</span></p><br /></td>
<td align="right"><span class="minor"><a href="#Page_77">77</a>-<a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></td>
</tr>
@@ -362,7 +321,7 @@ GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET.
<td><p class="p_m1_5"><span class="minor">Travelling by the Canal du Midi&mdash;Travelling French
People&mdash;The Salt Harvest&mdash;Equestrian Thrashing
Machines&mdash;Cette&mdash;The Mediterranean&mdash;The "Made"
- Wines&mdash;The Priest on Wines&mdash;<i>La Cuisine Française</i></span></p><br /></td>
+ Wines&mdash;The Priest on Wines&mdash;<i>La Cuisine Française</i></span></p><br /></td>
<td align="right"><span class="minor"><a href="#Page_200">200</a>-<a href="#Page_218">218</a></span></td>
</tr>
@@ -380,7 +339,7 @@ GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET.
<tr>
<td><p class="p_m1_5"><span class="minor">Fen Landscape&mdash;Tavern Allegories&mdash;Roman Remains&mdash;Roman
Architecture&mdash;Roman Theatricals&mdash;The Maison
- Carrée&mdash;Greek Architecture&mdash;Catholic and Protestant&mdash;The
+ Carrée&mdash;Greek Architecture&mdash;Catholic and Protestant&mdash;The
Weaver's <i>Cabane</i>&mdash;Protestant and Catholic</span></p><br /></td>
<td align="right"><span class="minor"><a href="#Page_236">236</a>-<a href="#Page_255">255</a></span></td>
</tr>
@@ -447,7 +406,7 @@ broad, white, chalky highway, powdering with dust
the double avenue of chestnuts which lined it. Beyond
the plain glittered a great river, crowded with shipping,
and beyond the river rose stretching, apparently for
-miles, a magnificent façade of high white buildings,
+miles, a magnificent façade of high white buildings,
broken here and there by the foliage of public gardens,
and the dark embouchures of streets; while, behind
the range of quays, and golden in the sunrise, rose
@@ -519,13 +478,13 @@ clumsy harness and high peaked collars, making a
scant two miles an hour. Not an equipage of any
pretension to be seen. No graceful phaeton, no
slangy dog-cart, no cosey family carriage&mdash;only now
-and then a crawling local diligence, or M. le Curé
+and then a crawling local diligence, or M. le Curé
on a shocking bad horse, or an indescribably dilapidated
anomalous jingling appearance of a vague
shandry-dan. And so on from dawn till sunset,
through narrow streeted towns, with lanterns swinging
above our heads, and open squares with scrubby
-lime trees, and white-washed cafés all around; and by
+lime trees, and white-washed cafés all around; and by
a shabby municipality with gilded heads to the front
railings, a dilapidated tricolor, and a short-legged,
red-legged sentinel, not so tall as his firelock, keeping
@@ -556,7 +515,7 @@ men in blouses, women of the same rank in the
peasant head-dress of the country, and here and there
a nondescript personage in a cap and shooting jacket,
who generally turns up at the scantily-attended table
-d'hôte at dinner time&mdash;such are the items which make
+d'hôte at dinner time&mdash;such are the items which make
up the mass of the visible population. You hardly
see an individual who does not appear to have been
born and bred upon the spot, and to have no ideas
@@ -613,7 +572,7 @@ forth, being eighty-six years of age, mounted upon a
little palfrey, to encounter the Duke of Anjou, in those
latter days when our continental dominions were
shrinking, as we deserved that they should shrink,
-after the brutal murder of the glorious Maid of Domrémy.
+after the brutal murder of the glorious Maid of Domrémy.
It is true that we are at this moment in the
department of the Dordogne, and that when we cross
the river we shall be in that of the Gironde. But
@@ -725,7 +684,7 @@ keeps up the old grievance.</p>
<p>All sensible readers will be gratified when I state
that I have not the remotest intention of describing
-the archæology of Bordeaux, or any other town whatever.
+the archæology of Bordeaux, or any other town whatever.
Whoever wants to know the height of a steeple,
the length of an aisle, or the number of arches in a
bridge, must betake themselves to Murray and his
@@ -737,7 +696,7 @@ I will go into raptures neither about Virgins nor Holy
Families, nor Oriel windows, in the fine old cut-and-dry
school of the traveller of taste, which means,
of course, every traveller who ever packed a shirt into
-a carpet bag; but, leaving the mere archæology and
+a carpet bag; but, leaving the mere archæology and
carved stones alone in their glory, I will try to sketch
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>
living, and now and then historical, France&mdash;to move
@@ -840,7 +799,7 @@ Second.</p>
of the Feuillans. There, upon a dark and massive
pedestal, lies stretched the effigy of an armed man.
His hands are clasped, his vizor up shows his peaked
-beard, and he is clad <i>cap-à-pied</i> in steel. Who was
+beard, and he is clad <i>cap-à-pied</i> in steel. Who was
the doughty warrior, thus resting in his mail?
Strange to say, no warrior at all; but the quietest
and most peaceable of God's beings. He had an
@@ -866,9 +825,9 @@ protector. His hotel was a very modest one, where
never before, I do believe, had Englishmen come to
make everything dear and disagreeable. The red
boards of the aristocratic Murray were unknown in
-his <i>salle à manger</i>. He hadn't an ounce of tea in
+his <i>salle à manger</i>. He hadn't an ounce of tea in
his house, and very probably, if he had, he would
-have fried it with butter, and served it <i>à la</i> something
+have fried it with butter, and served it <i>à la</i> something
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
or other. When I say he, however, I mean madame,
not monsieur. The latter would have made a capital
@@ -892,8 +851,8 @@ very clever at standing on the outer steps of his door,
smoking cigars; and, indeed, would stay very willingly
there all day&mdash;at least, until he heard his wife's
voice, upon which he would make a precipitate retreat
-to a neighbouring café, where he would drink <i>eau
-sucreé</i> and rattle dominoes on a marble table till
+to a neighbouring café, where he would drink <i>eau
+sucreé</i> and rattle dominoes on a marble table till
dinner-time. With this worthy I formed a personal
acquaintance, by buying from him, at the reasonable
rate of six sous a-piece, a number of quaint brass-set
@@ -1001,7 +960,7 @@ hurrahs of all assembled.</p>
the best of the daylight. The ordinary hired labourers
dined, indeed, soon after noon; but I am talking
of the feast of honour. It was served in a thinly-furnished,
-stone-paved, damp and dismal <i>salle à
+stone-paved, damp and dismal <i>salle à
manger</i>. A few additional ladies with their beaux,
grand provincial dandies, all of whom tried to outstrip
each other in the magnificence of their waistcoats, had
@@ -1020,7 +979,7 @@ dinner for the vintagers and for us; and then our
host's father, a reverend old man in a black velvet
scull cap, and long silver hair. The dinner was
copious, and, as may be conceived, by no means
-served in the style of the <i>café de Paris</i>. But <i>soupe</i>,
+served in the style of the <i>café de Paris</i>. But <i>soupe</i>,
<i>bouilli</i>, <i>roti</i>, the stewed and the fried, speedily went
the way of all flesh. Everybody <i>trinque-ed</i> with everybody:
the jingle of the meeting glasses rose even
@@ -1064,7 +1023,7 @@ my companion informed me in a hoarse whisper that
he should leave France, his native and beloved land,
where he felt sure that he was not appreciated, and
pitch his tent, "<i>la bas, en Angleterre, parceque les
-Anglais étaient si bons enfants!</i>"</p>
+Anglais étaient si bons enfants!</i>"</p>
<p class="pmb1">"So ho!" thought I; "a strange reminiscence of
the old Gascons." But on the morrow, my respectable
@@ -1450,7 +1409,7 @@ left my leg on Waterloo."</p>
<p>"And I," chimed in his companion, "left my arm
at Trafalgar."</p>
-<p>"<i>Sacré!</i>" said the veteran of the land. "One of
+<p>"<i>Sacré!</i>" said the veteran of the land. "One of
the cursed English bullets took me in the knee, and
spoiled as tight a lancer as they had in the gallant
10th."</p>
@@ -1465,7 +1424,7 @@ verified. Captain Duff, the officer alluded to, was
thus killed upon his quarter-deck, and the same ball
shattered two seamen almost to pieces.</p>
-<p>"<i>Sacré!</i>" said the <i>ci-devant</i> lancer, "I'd like to
+<p>"<i>Sacré!</i>" said the <i>ci-devant</i> lancer, "I'd like to
have a rap at the English again&mdash;I would&mdash;the
English&mdash;<i>nom de tonnerre</i>&mdash;tell me&mdash;didn't they
murder the emperor?"</p>
@@ -1491,7 +1450,7 @@ the far more pacific man of the sea. "I think&mdash;<i>mon
voisin</i>&mdash;that you and I have had quite enough of
fighting."</p>
-<p>"But they killed the emperor. <i>Sacré nom de tous
+<p>"But they killed the emperor. <i>Sacré nom de tous
les diables</i>&mdash;they killed the emperor."</p>
<p>My modest exculpation on behalf of Great Britain
@@ -1505,7 +1464,7 @@ different (to his friend) from what you tell us. Come&mdash;that's
another story altogether; and what I say is,
that's reasonable."</p>
-<p>But the lancer was not to be convinced&mdash;"<i>Sacré
+<p>But the lancer was not to be convinced&mdash;"<i>Sacré
bleu!</i>&mdash;they killed the emperor."</p>
<p>All this, it is to be observed, passed without the
@@ -1531,7 +1490,7 @@ our wines."</p>
<p>I demurred to this proposition; but the Waterloo
man was down on me in no time. "Yes, yes; the
wines of the great houses&mdash;the great proprietors.
-<i>Sacré!</i>&mdash;the <i>farceurs</i>&mdash;the <i>blageurs</i>&mdash;who puff their
+<i>Sacré!</i>&mdash;the <i>farceurs</i>&mdash;the <i>blageurs</i>&mdash;who puff their
wines, and get them puffed, and great prices for them,
when they're not better than ours&mdash;the peasant's
wines&mdash;when they're grown in the same ground&mdash;ripened
@@ -1550,9 +1509,9 @@ knows anything about us. Our wine&mdash;bah!&mdash;what is
it? It has no name&mdash;no fame! Who will give us
francs? No, no; sous for the poor man&mdash;francs for
the rich. Copper for the little landlord; silver&mdash;silver
-and gold for the big landlord! As our curé said last
+and gold for the big landlord! As our curé said last
Sunday: 'Unto him who has much, more shall be
-given.' <i>Sacré Dieu de dieux!</i>&mdash;Even the Bible goes
+given.' <i>Sacré Dieu de dieux!</i>&mdash;Even the Bible goes
against the poor!"</p>
<p>All this time, the old sailor was tugging his comrade's
@@ -1592,12 +1551,12 @@ French sentiment as ever I heard, "<i>Vive la mort!</i>"</p>
if we took the peasant wines, something might be
made of us. The case was not utterly hopeless; and
when I rose to go, he proposed a stirrup-cup&mdash;a <i>coup
-de l'étrier</i>&mdash;to the washing down of all unkindness;
+de l'étrier</i>&mdash;to the washing down of all unkindness;
but, in the very act of swallowing it, he didn't exactly
stop, but made a motion as if he would, and then
slowly letting the last drop run over his lips, he put
down the glass, and said, bitterly and coldly, "<i>Mais
-pourtant, vous avez tué l'Empereur!</i>"</p>
+pourtant, vous avez tué l'Empereur!</i>"</p>
<p>I have introduced this episode principally for the
purpose of showing the notions entertained by the
@@ -1640,7 +1599,7 @@ moment, I must pause upon the threshold. Will it
be believed&mdash;whether it will or not it is, nevertheless,
true&mdash;that the commencement of the vintage in France
is settled, not by the opinion or the convenience of
-the proprietors, but by the <i>autorités</i> of each <i>arrondissement</i>?
+the proprietors, but by the <i>autorités</i> of each <i>arrondissement</i>?
As September wanes and the grape ripens,
the rural mayor assembles what he calls a jury of
<i>experts</i>; which jury proceed, from day to day,
@@ -1656,7 +1615,7 @@ a converse locality, may not be ready to commence
for a fortnight afterwards. <i>N'importe</i>&mdash;the French
have a great notion of uniform symmetry and symmetrical
uniformity, and so the whole district starts together&mdash;the
-mayor issuing, <i>par autorité</i>, a highly-official-looking
+mayor issuing, <i>par autorité</i>, a highly-official-looking
document, which is duly posted by
yellow-breeched <i>gens-d'armes</i>, and, before the appearance
of which, not a vine-grower can gather, for wine
@@ -1669,13 +1628,13 @@ England that now they might begin to cut their
wheat! The mayor's mace would be forced down the
beadle's throat, and the beadle's staff down the mayor's.
But they manage these things&mdash;not exactly&mdash;better in
-France. What would France be without <i>les autorités</i>?
+France. What would France be without <i>les autorités</i>?
Could the sun rise without a prefect? Certainly not.
Could it set without a sub-prefect? Certainly not.
Could the planets shine on France unless they were
furnished with passports for the firmament? Clearly
not. Could the rain rain on France unless each drop
-came armed with the <i>visé</i> of some wonderful bureau
+came armed with the <i>visé</i> of some wonderful bureau
or other? Decidedly not. Well, then, how could the
vintage begin until the people, who know nothing
about the vintage, command it? It is quite clear,
@@ -2035,7 +1994,7 @@ most miraculous promptitude; small linen articles
hung out to dry have no more chance than if Falstaff's
regiment were marching by; and garden-fruit
and vegetables, of course, share the results produced
-by a rigid application of the maxim that <i>la propriété
+by a rigid application of the maxim that <i>la propriété
c'est le vol</i>. Where these people come from is a puzzle.
There will be vagrants and strollers among them from
all parts of France&mdash;from the Pyrenees and the Alps&mdash;from
@@ -2137,9 +2096,9 @@ short rest, devoted to chatting, or very often sleeping
in the shade, over, the signal is given, and the work
recommences.</p>
-<p>"You have seen our <i>salle à manger</i>," said one of my
+<p>"You have seen our <i>salle à manger</i>," said one of my
courteous entertainers&mdash;he of the broad-brimmed straw
-hat; "and now you shall see our <i>chambre à coucher</i>."
+hat; "and now you shall see our <i>chambre à coucher</i>."
Accordingly, he led me to a barn close to his wine-cellars.
The place was littered deep with clean, fresh
straw. Here and there rolled-up blankets were laid
@@ -2168,7 +2127,7 @@ other accommodation they must procure for themselves."</p>
<p>"Not a bit. They are too tired to do anything
but sleep. They go off, sir, like dormice."</p>
-<p>"<i>Oh, sil plait à Mossieu!</i>" put in one of the
+<p>"<i>Oh, sil plait à Mossieu!</i>" put in one of the
damsels. "The chief of the band does the police."
(<i>Fait la gen-d'armerie.</i>)</p>
@@ -2181,7 +2140,7 @@ all along between them."</p>
<p>"Truly; and he allows no nonsense."</p>
-<p>"<i>Il est meme éxcessivement severe</i>," interpolated
+<p>"<i>Il est meme éxcessivement severe</i>," interpolated
the same young lady.</p>
<p>"He need be," replied her employer. "He allows
@@ -2247,7 +2206,7 @@ not more by association than actuality.</p>
<p>And now, Reader, luxuriating amid the gorgeously
carven and emblazoned fittings of a Palais Royal or
Boulevard restorateur, Vefours, the Freres, or the
-Café de Paris; or perhaps ensconced in our quieter
+Café de Paris; or perhaps ensconced in our quieter
and more sober rooms&mdash;dim and dull after garish
Paris, but ten times more comfortable in their ample
sofas and carpets, into which you sink as into quagmires,
@@ -2480,7 +2439,7 @@ the animal in a lather. A porter approached, and
grinned. "Monsieur has made haste, but the winter
season begins to-day, and the train does not go for an
hour and a half." There was no help for it, and I
-sauntered into the nearest <i>café</i> to read long disquisitions
+sauntered into the nearest <i>café</i> to read long disquisitions
on what was then all the vogue in the political
world&mdash;the "situation." I found the little marble
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
@@ -2506,7 +2465,7 @@ home sober.</p>
<p>"<i>Tiens! c'est admirable!</i>" shouted the spectators&mdash;burly
fellows, with black beards, and honest tradesman-looking
-people, with glasses of <i>eau sucreé</i> in
+people, with glasses of <i>eau sucreé</i> in
their hands.</p>
<p>"And now," said the old gentleman, the poodle's
@@ -2519,7 +2478,7 @@ jerking itself up and down on its haunches, and
flinging its paws about as if it had the hydrophobia.
The spectators were enraptured. "It is actually her
voice," said one. "Only the dog is too good-looking
-for her," said another. "<i>Voilà, petite!</i>" vociferated
+for her," said another. "<i>Voilà, petite!</i>" vociferated
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
a third, holding a huge piece of bluish-tinted beetroot
sugar to the performer, when suddenly the group was
@@ -2528,19 +2487,19 @@ baggy cravat, very snuffy, and a pair of heavy gold
spectacles.</p>
<p>"<i>Je dis&mdash;moi!</i>" shouted the new comer, in violent
-wrath; "<i>que c'est abominable ce que vous faites là
-Père Grignon.</i>" A murmur of suppressed laughter
-went through the group. Père Grignon looked considerably
+wrath; "<i>que c'est abominable ce que vous faites là
+Père Grignon.</i>" A murmur of suppressed laughter
+went through the group. Père Grignon looked considerably
taken aback, and the speaker aimed a hearty
kick at Niniche, who dodged away round the stove.
It was evident that he was no other than the injured
and maligned Tetard himself. Instantly he broke
into loud objurgations. He knew how that atrocious
-old <i>Père Grignon</i> had taught his dog to malign him,
-the <i>bête misérable</i>! But as for it, he would poison
-it&mdash;shoot it&mdash;drown it; and as for Père Grignon, who
+old <i>Père Grignon</i> had taught his dog to malign him,
+the <i>bête misérable</i>! But as for it, he would poison
+it&mdash;shoot it&mdash;drown it; and as for Père Grignon, who
ought to have more sense, all the quartier knew what
-he was&mdash;an <i>imbécile</i>, who was always running about
+he was&mdash;an <i>imbécile</i>, who was always running about
carrying tales, and making mischief. But he would
appeal to the authorities; he would lay his complaint
before the commisary of the quartier; he would&mdash;he
@@ -2551,8 +2510,8 @@ door, and instantly sprung vigorously after him:&mdash;</p>
<p>"<i>Tenez-tenez</i>; don't touch Niniche&mdash;it's not his
fault!" exclaimed the poodle's proprietor. But the
dog had bolted, with Tetard in hot chase of his imitator,
-and vowing that he should be <i>écraséd</i> and
-<i>abiméd</i> as soon as caught. There was, of course,
+and vowing that he should be <i>écraséd</i> and
+<i>abiméd</i> as soon as caught. There was, of course,
great laughter at the whole proceeding; and then the
group betook themselves to the marble slabs and
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
@@ -2662,7 +2621,7 @@ blandly at me, as if the keen-eyed man was a character
to be humoured, and then looked doubtful and
unconvinced.</p>
-<p>"Tohua-Cohoa," he said; "it has a <i>sacré tonnerre</i>
+<p>"Tohua-Cohoa," he said; "it has a <i>sacré tonnerre</i>
of a barbarous sound; has it any meaning?"</p>
<p>"Meaning!" exclaimed the man of the Landes;
@@ -2898,7 +2857,7 @@ their pigs, and their sheep, and their Landes
ponies, and then their furniture, and then their clothes,
and, last of all, their stilts&mdash;for a Landes man thinks
his stilts the principal part of his wardrobe; and,
-<i>sacré!</i> monsieur, three of the fellows were ruined
+<i>sacré!</i> monsieur, three of the fellows were ruined
out and out, and had to give up their hats, and sheep-skins,
and sabots, while the man who was the greatest
winner walked home on his own stilts, with the stilts
@@ -2951,7 +2910,7 @@ green leaf. But, in a moment, I saw something more.
Could I believe my eyes? A ship! Yes, verily, a ship,
fast aground, high and dry upon the turf! and not
only one, but two, three, four, good-sized schooners
-and <i>chasse marées</i>, with peasants digging about them,
+and <i>chasse marées</i>, with peasants digging about them,
and country carts high heaped with green rural-looking
burdens.</p>
@@ -3002,7 +2961,7 @@ Beliefs, and Popular Customs.</span></span>
<p class="pmb1">The sun was low in the heavens next morning when
I was afoot and down to the beach, the glorious bay
now brimming full, and the schooners and <i>chasse
-marées</i>, like the swan on St. Mary's Loch, floating
+marées</i>, like the swan on St. Mary's Loch, floating
double, ships and shadows. The scene was very
strange. The green meadow had disappeared, and
where it had been, a gleaming lake stretched brilliant
@@ -3704,7 +3663,7 @@ sphinx.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p>
-<p>I dined that day at the hotel, <i>tete-à-tete</i> with
+<p>I dined that day at the hotel, <i>tete-à-tete</i> with
a young priest, who was returning to Bordeaux from
a visit to his brother, one of the officers of the Preventitive
Service, whose lonely barracks are almost the
@@ -3712,9 +3671,9 @@ only human habitations which break the weary
wilderness stretching from the Adour to the Gironde.
One would have thought that there could be but
little smuggling on such a coast; but the Duaniers
-are always <i>autorités</i>, and the waves of the Gulf of
+are always <i>autorités</i>, and the waves of the Gulf of
Gascony could not, of course, break on French ground
-without <i>autorités</i> to help them. With respect to
+without <i>autorités</i> to help them. With respect to
the priest, however, he had one of the finest heads
and the most perfectly chiselled features I ever saw.
The pale high brow&mdash;the keen bright eyes, with
@@ -3744,7 +3703,7 @@ course, their scholastic and theological knowledge&mdash;I
found the majority with whom I conversed stupid,
illiterate, and unintelligent. Now, the young priest
at Teste was the reverse of all this. With manners
-as polished as those of any courtly <i>abbé</i> of the courtly
+as polished as those of any courtly <i>abbé</i> of the courtly
old <i>regime</i>, there was a perfect atmosphere of frankness
and quiet good-humour about my companion, and his
conversation was delightfully easy, animated, and
@@ -3948,7 +3907,7 @@ Black Prince.</p>
pier was crowded and bustling enough. Men with
lanterns and luggage were rushing breathlessly about&mdash;and
gentlemen with brushy black beards were
-kissing each other with true French <i>éffusion</i>&mdash;while
+kissing each other with true French <i>éffusion</i>&mdash;while
a crowd of humble vintagers were being stowed away
in the fore part of the boat. On the pier I observed
a tent, and looking in, found myself in a genuine
@@ -4064,7 +4023,7 @@ and the Fleur-de-Lis.</p>
to the age of the Black Prince&mdash;there would appear
to have been a great deal of chivalric courtesy and
forbearance shown on either side. It was but seldom
-that a place was defended <i>à outrance</i>. If the besiegers
+that a place was defended <i>à outrance</i>. If the besiegers
appeared in very formidable force, the besieged
usually submitted with a very good grace, marched
honourably out, and had their turn next time. I
@@ -4182,7 +4141,7 @@ for Jasmin's songs and rural epics are written in the
almost unaltered <i>Langue d'Oc</i>&mdash;the tongue of the
chivalric minstrelsy of yore. But Jasmin is a Troubadour
in another sense than that of merely availing
-himself of the tongue of the <i>ménestrels</i>. He publishes,
+himself of the tongue of the <i>ménestrels</i>. He publishes,
certainly&mdash;conforming so far to the usages of
our degenerate modern times; but his great triumphs
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
@@ -4373,7 +4332,7 @@ looked dubiously at me when I confessed that I had
never heard of the organ in question. "<i>Pourtant</i>,"
he said, "<i>je vous le ferai voir</i>:" and I soon perceived
that Jasmin's <i>Tintinum</i> was no other than the
-<i>Athenæum</i>.</p>
+<i>Athenæum</i>.</p>
<p>In the little back drawing-room behind the shop,
to which the poet speedily introduced me, his sister,
@@ -4459,7 +4418,7 @@ flung into his rhapsodical discourse on poetry and
language.</p>
<p>Hereabouts you begin to become sensible of a
-change in the cookery at the <i>table-d'hôtes</i>; and in the
+change in the cookery at the <i>table-d'hôtes</i>; and in the
gradually increasing predominance of oil and garlic,
you recognise the kitchen influences of the sweet
south. Garlic is a word of fear&mdash;of absolute horror
@@ -4485,7 +4444,7 @@ Gascons love and Scotsmen do not despise." Indeed,
your friends will probably think it well if you content
yourself with the <i>petit point</i>, and do not give yourself
up to a height of seasoning such as that which I saw
-in the <i>salle à manger</i> at Agen, drive two English
+in the <i>salle à manger</i> at Agen, drive two English
ladies headlong from the room. Every body in the
South eats garlic, and you will find it for your interest,
if but in self-defence, to do the same; while the oil
@@ -4504,8 +4463,8 @@ of tiny urchins, clustered round a grocer's shop, in
great admiration of a row of clear oil-flasks displayed
in the window.</p>
-<p>"<i>Tiens</i>," said one. "<i>C'est de l'huile ça&mdash;de
-l'huile claire&mdash;ça doit etre bon su' le pain&mdash;ça!</i>" The
+<p>"<i>Tiens</i>," said one. "<i>C'est de l'huile ça&mdash;de
+l'huile claire&mdash;ça doit etre bon su' le pain&mdash;ça!</i>" The
little gourmand looked upon oil just as an English
urchin would upon treacle.</p>
@@ -4748,7 +4707,7 @@ like slices cut out from Weymouth, Bath, or
Cheltenham. You see in an instant the insular cut
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>
of the groups, who go laughing and talking the familiar
-vernacular along the rough <i>pavé</i>. There is a
+vernacular along the rough <i>pavé</i>. There is a
tall, muscular hoble-de-hoy, with red hair, high shirt
collar, and a lady on each arm&mdash;fresh-looking damsels,
with flounces, which smack unmistakeably of
@@ -4765,7 +4724,7 @@ dragged there by their wives and daughters.</p>
<p>"By Jove, sir!" said one of these veterans to me
at Pau&mdash;he was very confidential over a glass of
-brandy and water at the <i>café</i> on the <i>Place</i>&mdash;"By
+brandy and water at the <i>café</i> on the <i>Place</i>&mdash;"By
Jove, sir, for myself, I'd never like to go further
from Pall Mall than just down Whitehall, to set my
watch by the Horse Guards' clock; but the women,
@@ -4809,7 +4768,7 @@ which they deserve the thanks of all Englishmen
with heads longer than their purses.</p>
<p>"<i>Ah, monsieur!</i>" I was once told, "<i>la pluie
-de guineés, c'est bonne; mais le pluie de roubles, c'est
+de guineés, c'est bonne; mais le pluie de roubles, c'est
une averse&mdash;un deluge!</i>"</p>
<p class="pmb1">Gaston Ph&#339;bus, Count de Foix, was a sad Bluebeard
@@ -4875,7 +4834,7 @@ of Catherine; whose impulsive heart and fiery
passions cast him at the feet of Gabrielle d'Estrees;
and whose weakness&mdash;manly while unmanly&mdash;made
him for a time the slave of Henriette d'Entragues.
-There is an encyclopædia of meaning in the face, and
+There is an encyclopædia of meaning in the face, and
even in the figure, of Henri. He had a grand mind,
with turbulent passions; he was deeply wise, yet
frantically reckless; he had many faults, but few
@@ -4957,7 +4916,7 @@ of these tapestried curtains, and call up in the gloom
a vision of the grandly eventful life which followed.
An army is drawn up near Rochelle, and a lady
leads a child between the lines. Coligni and the
-Condé head the group of generals who, bonnet in
+Condé head the group of generals who, bonnet in
hand, surround the lady and the child; and then
Jeanne D'Albret, lifting up her clear woman's voice,
dedicates the little Henri to the Protestant cause in
@@ -5016,7 +4975,7 @@ flashing eyes, exclaims: "Sire, that fellow must be
hanged forthwith!" "Sire!"&mdash;the boatman gazes
in astonishment on his questioner. "Tut, tut," is
the reply; "the poor fellow shall no longer pay
-<i>corvée</i> or <i>gabelle</i>, and so will he sing for the rest of
+<i>corvée</i> or <i>gabelle</i>, and so will he sing for the rest of
his days, Vive Henri&mdash;Vive Gabrielle!"&mdash;Another
scene: in the library and working room of the great
king, and his great minister. The monarch shews
@@ -5030,7 +4989,7 @@ madman in France." The king takes his hand,
and does him justice.&mdash;Yet one last closing sketch.
In a huge gilded coach in the midst of a group of
splendidly dressed courtiers, sits the king. There
-is an obstruction in the street. The <i>cortège</i> stops;
+is an obstruction in the street. The <i>cortège</i> stops;
the lackeys leave it to clear the way; when a moody-browed
fanatic, with flaming eyes, and red hair all on
end, bounds into the carriage&mdash;a poniard gleaming
@@ -5101,7 +5060,7 @@ pull up at the first public-house outside of Pau.</p>
<p>"Look up there!" he said, pointing to a high-wooded
ridge to the right; "there are the Jurancon
vineyards&mdash;the best in the Pyrenees; and here we
-shall have a <i>coup-d'étrier</i> of genuine old Jurancon
+shall have a <i>coup-d'étrier</i> of genuine old Jurancon
wine."</p>
<p>Remembering Henri Quatre's first beverage, I
@@ -5336,7 +5295,7 @@ being hugged to death now. Poor Bruin! For,
after all, monsieur, he is a gentlemanly beast; he
never kills the sheep wantonly. He always chooses
the best, which is but natural, and walks off with it.
-But the wolf&mdash;<i>sacré nom du diable!</i>&mdash;the wolf&mdash;a
+But the wolf&mdash;<i>sacré nom du diable!</i>&mdash;the wolf&mdash;a
<i>coquin</i>&mdash;a brigand&mdash;a <i>Basque tonnere</i>&mdash;he will
slaughter a flock in a night. <i>Mon Dieu!</i> he laps
blood till he gets drunk on it. A <i>voleur</i>&mdash;a <i>mauvais
@@ -5344,7 +5303,7 @@ sujet</i>&mdash;a <i>cochon</i>&mdash;a dam beast!"</p>
<p>"But do the Pyrenean wolves ever attack men?"</p>
-<p>"<i>Sacré! Monsieur; tenez.</i> There was Jacques
+<p>"<i>Sacré! Monsieur; tenez.</i> There was Jacques
Blitz&mdash;an honest man, a farmer in the hills; he came
down to Pau, when the snow was deep, and the
winter hard. I saw him in Pau. Well, in the afternoon
@@ -5362,7 +5321,7 @@ the wolves had gnawed the wood, but could
not break it. 'Take off the sabots!' screamed the
wife. And they did so: and she gave a shuddering
gasp, and said, 'They are Jacques' feet!' and tumbled
-down into the snow. <i>Sacré peste</i>, the cannibals!
+down into the snow. <i>Sacré peste</i>, the cannibals!
Curse the wolves&mdash;here's to their extirpation!"</p>
<p>And M. Martin took a goodly pull at a bottle of
@@ -5470,7 +5429,7 @@ a judicious crossing of first-rate Newfoundlands,
St. Bernard mastiffs, and thorough old English bulldogs;
and I could easily believe that one wrench
from their enormous square jaws is perfectly sufficient
-to crash through the neck vertebræ of the
+to crash through the neck vertebræ of the
largest wolf.</p>
<p>As we neared Laruns, the mountain-slopes
@@ -5688,7 +5647,7 @@ into a Bear.</span></span>
</h2>
-<p>I wakened next morning to a mournful <i>reveillé</i>&mdash;the
+<p>I wakened next morning to a mournful <i>reveillé</i>&mdash;the
pattering of the rain; and, looking out, found
the Place one puddle of melting sleet. The fog lay
heavy and low upon the hills, and the sky was as
@@ -5724,7 +5683,7 @@ Laruns, with the news that the road was blocked
up; and truly I found that, had it not been so, my
first step towards going to Spain must needs have
been in the direction of Bayonne, to have my passports
-<i>visèd</i>&mdash;those dreary passports, which hang like
+<i>visèd</i>&mdash;those dreary passports, which hang like
clogs to a traveller's feet. And so then passed the
dull morning tide away, every body sulky and savage.
Peasants, with dripping capas, stumbled up stairs,
@@ -5761,7 +5720,7 @@ chattering&mdash;to hear Martin proclaim, about once in
five minutes, that the weather would clear up at the
next turn of the road? The dreary day remains,
cold and clammy, a fog-bank looming in my memory
-ever since. I believe I saw the <i>établissment</i>
+ever since. I believe I saw the <i>établissment</i>
of Eaux Chaudes; at least, there were big drenched
houses, with shutters up, like dead-lights, and closed
doors, and mud around them, like water round the
@@ -5822,7 +5781,7 @@ and presently the steam of soup began to steal into
the room. Martin and Jeanne were holding confidential
intercourse, which ended in my squire's coming
to me, and announcing that there was to be held
-a grand <i>épeluche</i> of the Indian corn, and that the
+a grand <i>épeluche</i> of the Indian corn, and that the
soup was to form the supper of the work-people.
Presently, sure enough, a vast pile of maize in the
husk was brought up, and heaped upon the floor;
@@ -6146,7 +6105,7 @@ before, or ever occupied since.</p>
<p>"The price is the price of an ordinary bedroom.
Monsieur may choose whatever room he pleases; and
-the <i>table-d'hôte</i> bell rings at six."</p>
+the <i>table-d'hôte</i> bell rings at six."</p>
<p>This, at all events, was reassuring. Then my
conductress retreated; the doors banged behind her,
@@ -6158,8 +6117,8 @@ something handsome for a cat, or even a mouse; a
parrot would have been invaluable&mdash;it would have
shouted and screamed. But no; the hush of the
place was like the Egyptian darkness&mdash;it was a thick
-silence, which could be felt. At length the <i>table-d'hôte</i>
-bell rang. The <i>salle à manger</i> was in the
+silence, which could be felt. At length the <i>table-d'hôte</i>
+bell rang. The <i>salle à manger</i> was in the
building across the yard. Thither I repaired, and
found a room, or rather a long corridor, big enough
to dine a Freemason's or London Tavern party, with
@@ -6167,7 +6126,7 @@ a miraculously long table, tapering away into the
distance. Upon a few square feet of this table was
a patch of white cloth; and upon the patch of cloth
one plate, one knife and fork, and one glass. This
-was the <i>table-d'hôte</i>, and, like Handel, "I was de
+was the <i>table-d'hôte</i>, and, like Handel, "I was de
kombany."</p>
<p>Next day the weather was no better; but I was
@@ -6187,8 +6146,8 @@ walls. Hardly a soul was stirring; but ducks quacked
manfully in the kennels, and two or three wretched
donkeys&mdash;dreary relics of the season&mdash;stood with their
heads together under the lime-trees in the Place. I
-retreated into a <i>café</i>. If there were nobody in France
-but the last man, you would find him in a <i>café</i>,
+retreated into a <i>café</i>. If there were nobody in France
+but the last man, you would find him in a <i>café</i>,
making his own coffee, and playing billiards with
himself. Here the room was tolerably crowded; and
I got into conversation with a group of townspeople
@@ -6433,7 +6392,7 @@ the birds are struggling and fluttering in the meshes."</p>
</div>
<p class="p2">At Bagnerre there is a marble work&mdash;that of
-M. Géruset&mdash;which I recommend every body to visit,
+M. Géruset&mdash;which I recommend every body to visit,
not to see marble cut, although that is interesting,
but to pay their respects to, I believe, the grandest
dog in all the world&mdash;a giant even among the canine
@@ -6466,7 +6425,7 @@ would like to see any four men in Bagnerre try to
force him."</p>
<p>That evening I fortunately did not include the
-whole company at the <i>table-d'hôte</i>. There was a
+whole company at the <i>table-d'hôte</i>. There was a
young gentleman very much jewelled, and an elderly
lady also very strongly got up in the way of brooches
and bracelets, to whom the young gentleman was paying
@@ -6491,7 +6450,7 @@ exist;" "English gentlemen will take good care to
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>
keep at a distance from them," and "English ladies
will be cautious of presenting themselves at a French
-<i>table-d'hôte</i>, except"&mdash;in certain cases specified. Now,
+<i>table-d'hôte</i>, except"&mdash;in certain cases specified. Now,
I agree with Mr. Murray, that commercial travellers,
French and English, are not distinguished by much
polish of manner, or elegance of address; on the
@@ -6506,7 +6465,7 @@ going more than a little too far. I have met
scores of clever and intelligent <i>commis voyageurs</i>&mdash;hundreds
of affable, good-humoured ones&mdash;thousands
of decent, inoffensive ones. In company with a lady,
-I have dined at every species of <i>table-d'hôte</i>, in every
+I have dined at every species of <i>table-d'hôte</i>, in every
species of hotel, from the Channel to the Mediterranean,
and the Bay of Biscay to the Alps, and I
cannot call to mind one instance of rudeness, or
@@ -6519,10 +6478,10 @@ French <i>commis voyageur</i> looks after his own interest
at table pretty sharply, and also that he is quite deficient
in all the elegant little courtesies of society; but
to say that he is brutal or depraved, because he is not
-a <i>petit maître</i> and an <i>elegant</i>, is neither true nor
+a <i>petit maître</i> and an <i>elegant</i>, is neither true nor
courteous. If there be any set of Frenchmen to
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
-whose conduct at <i>table-d'hôtes</i> strong expressions
+whose conduct at <i>table-d'hôtes</i> strong expressions
may be fairly applied, it is French officers, who sprung
from a rank often inferior to that of the bagman,
and, with all the coarseness of the barracks clinging
@@ -6579,7 +6538,7 @@ feudal memorials bring me to the castles and ruined
towers so thickly peopling the land where lived the
bands of adventurers, as Froissart calls them, by
whom the fat citizens of the towns were wont to be
-"<i>guerroyés et harriés</i>," and most of which have still
+"<i>guerroyés et harriés</i>," and most of which have still
their legends of desperate sieges, and, too often, of
foul murders done within their dreary walls. Pass,
as I perforce must, however, and gain Provence&mdash;there
@@ -6933,7 +6892,7 @@ Beziers, a certain other personage has long ago proved
himself equally perspicuous and discriminating.</p>
<p>We pulled up at Hotel du Nord, at Beziers, just
-as the <i>table-d'hôte</i> bell was ringing; and I speedily
+as the <i>table-d'hôte</i> bell was ringing; and I speedily
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
found myself sitting down in a most gaily lighted
<i>salon</i>, to a capital dinner, in the midst of a merry
@@ -7023,7 +6982,7 @@ air. St. Paul talks of the south wind, which blew
softly until there arose against it a fierce wind, called
Euroclydon&mdash;certainly the mistral. Madame de Sevigne
paints it as "<i>le tourbillon, l'ouregan, tous les
-diables dechainés qui veulent bien emporter votre
+diables dechainés qui veulent bien emporter votre
chateau</i>;" and my amazement is, that the hurricane
does not sometimes carry bodily off, if not a chateau,
at least the ricketty villages of the peasants. I had
@@ -7132,7 +7091,7 @@ knitting in the sun, formed the only moving objects
which gave life to the dreary picture.</p>
<p>In this village, however, dreary as it was, I found
-a <i>café</i> and a billiard-table. Where, indeed, in France
+a <i>café</i> and a billiard-table. Where, indeed, in France
will you not? Except in the merest jumble of hovels,
you can hardly traverse a hamlet without seeing the
crossed cues and balls figuring on a gaily painted
@@ -7148,7 +7107,7 @@ of the life of great towns. Here, even with the thoroughly
rustic portion of the population, the game
seems a necessary of life. And there are, too&mdash;contrary
to what might have been expected&mdash;few or no
-make-shift-looking, trumpery tables. The <i>cafés</i> in
+make-shift-looking, trumpery tables. The <i>cafés</i> in
the Palais Royal, or in the fashionable Boulevards,
contain no pieces of furniture of this description more
massive or more elaborately carved and adorned than
@@ -7548,7 +7507,7 @@ blue of the great inland sea stretching away, deep and
lovely, before me; and with the hissing water and
foam-laced inner wavelets of the surf creaming to my
feet. A sensation, it will be admitted, is a pleasant
-thing in these <i>blasé</i> days, and the Mediterranean
+thing in these <i>blasé</i> days, and the Mediterranean
afforded one. There came on me a vague, crowded,
and indistinct vision, at once, of schoolboy recollections
and many a subsequent day-dream&mdash;of Roman
@@ -7829,14 +7788,14 @@ what it is. They tried to outshine the old noblesse
at table; they revived truffles, and they had the first
dishes of green pease, at eight hundred francs a <i>plat</i>.
Next to the financiers were the chevaliers and the
-abbés. <i>Oh, mon Dieu! qu'ils étaient gourmands ces
+abbés. <i>Oh, mon Dieu! qu'ils étaient gourmands ces
chers amis</i>; the chevaliers all swagger and dash; the
sword right up and down&mdash;shoulder-knot flaunting&mdash;a
-bold bearing and a keen eye. The abbés, in velvet
+bold bearing and a keen eye. The abbés, in velvet
and silk&mdash;as fat as carps, as sleek as moles, and as
soft-footed as cats&mdash;little and sly&mdash;perfect enjoyers
of the gourmandise. Oh, there was nothing more
-snug than an <i>abbé commanditaire</i>! He had consideration,
+snug than an <i>abbé commanditaire</i>! He had consideration,
position, money; no one to please, and
nothing to do."</p>
@@ -8232,7 +8191,7 @@ of the king had been fastened. The sea is about two
miles and a half distant, but the traces of the canal
which led to it are still visible amid the marsh and
sand, so that, right beneath the walls, upon the
-smooth, unmoving <i>aguæ mortes</i>&mdash;whence, of course,
+smooth, unmoving <i>aguæ mortes</i>&mdash;whence, of course,
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>
Aigues-Mortes&mdash;floated the fleet of the Crusade, made
fast to the ramparts of the fortress of the Crusade.
@@ -8319,7 +8278,7 @@ of whom I was more anxious to hear&mdash;of the
poisoning in the tower of St. Constance, and of the
band of braves who descended from the summit upon
tattered strips of blankets&mdash;he knew comparatively
-little. His mind was mediæval. Aigues-Mortes in
+little. His mind was mediæval. Aigues-Mortes in
the day of Louis Quatorze, was a declining place.
The glory had gone out of it, and the unappeasable
fever was slowly, but surely, claiming its own. Indeed,
@@ -8442,9 +8401,9 @@ Lord created Adam."</p>
<br />
<span class="vsmall"><span class="smcap">Flat Marsh Scenery, treated by Poets and Painters&mdash;Tavern
Allegories&mdash;Nismes&mdash;The Amphitheatre
-and the Maison Carrée&mdash;Protestant and Catholic&mdash;The
+and the Maison Carrée&mdash;Protestant and Catholic&mdash;The
old Religious Wars alive still&mdash;The Silk
-Weaver of Nismes and the Dragonnædes.</span></span>
+Weaver of Nismes and the Dragonnædes.</span></span>
</h2>
@@ -8527,7 +8486,7 @@ in the sight of a splendid cartoon suspended over the
great fireplace, which represented, in a severe allegory,
"The Death of Credit killed by bad Payers."
The scene was a handsome street, with a great open
-<i>café</i> behind, at the <i>comptoir</i> of which sat Madam
+<i>café</i> behind, at the <i>comptoir</i> of which sat Madam
Commerce aghast at the atrocity being committed
before her. In a corner are seen a group of <i>gardes
de commerce</i>&mdash;in the vernacular, bailiffs&mdash;lamenting
@@ -8599,7 +8558,7 @@ intended to go to London to the Exhibition, and that
he had a very snug plan for securing a competent
guide, who would poke up all the lions; this guide to
be a "<i>Marin du port de Londres; car tenez ils sont
-des galliards futés, les marins du port de Londres</i>."
+des galliards futés, les marins du port de Londres</i>."
I had all the difficulty in the world in making the
intending excursionist aware of the probable effects
of hiring, as a west-end guide, the first sailor or
@@ -8775,14 +8734,14 @@ Tyrian hue, as the poets say&mdash;gathering in knots,
and discussing a blow which had split a fellow-creature's
head open, as our own opera elegants might
Grisi's celebrated holding-note in <i>Norma</i>, or Duprez'
-famous <i>ut du poitrine</i>. The execution of a <i>débutant</i>
+famous <i>ut du poitrine</i>. The execution of a <i>débutant</i>
with the sword might be praised, as the execution
now-a-days of a <i>prima donna</i>. Rumours might be
discussed of a new net-and-trident man picked up in
some obscure arena, as the <i>cognoscenti</i> now whisper
the reported merits of a tenor discovered in Barcelona
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>
-or Palermo; and the <i>habitués</i> would delight to inform
+or Palermo; and the <i>habitués</i> would delight to inform
each other that the spirited and enterprising
management had secured the services of the celebrated
Berbix, whose career at Massilia, for instance,
@@ -8800,7 +8759,7 @@ could never have enough, and of which they never
tired&mdash;the excitement of the shedding of blood.</p>
<p>From the arena I walked slowly on to the Maison
-Carrée. All the great Roman remains lie upon the
+Carrée. All the great Roman remains lie upon the
open Boulevard, on the edge of the stacked and
crowded old town, while without the circle rise the
spacious streets of new <i>quartiers</i> for the rich, and
@@ -8809,21 +8768,21 @@ garrets and unwholesome cellars, the poor handloom
weavers produce webs of gorgeous silk which rival
the choicest products of Lyons. Presently, to the
left, appeared a horribly clumsy theatre; and, to the
-right, the wondrous Maison Carrée. The day of
+right, the wondrous Maison Carrée. The day of
which I am writing was certainly my day of architectural
sensation. First, Rome, with her hugeness
and her symmetric strength, gripped me; and now,
Greece, with her pure and etherial beauty, which is
essentially of the spirit, enthralled me. The Maison
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>
-Carrée was, no doubt, built by Roman hands, but
+Carrée was, no doubt, built by Roman hands, but
entirely after Greek models. It is wholly of Athens:
not at all of Rome&mdash;a Corinthian temple of the purest
taste and divinest beauty&mdash;small, slight, without an
atom of the ponderous majesty of the arena&mdash;reigning
by love and smiles, like Venus; not by frowns
and thunder, like Jove. Cardinal Alberoni said that
-the Maison Carrée was a gem which ought to be set
+the Maison Carrée was a gem which ought to be set
in gold; and the two great Jupiters of France&mdash;Louis
Quatorze and Napoleon&mdash;had both of them
schemes for lifting the temple bodily out of the ground
@@ -8839,7 +8798,7 @@ porticoed and caryatided&mdash;without a sensation, save
that the pile before me was cold and perhaps correct&mdash;a
sort of stone formulary. I had begun to fear that
Greek beauty was too subtle for me, or that Greek
-beauty was cant, when the Maison Carrée in a moment
+beauty was cant, when the Maison Carrée in a moment
utterly undeceived me. The puzzle was solved:
I had never seen Grecian architecture before. The
things which our domestic Pecksniffs call Grecian&mdash;their
@@ -8857,7 +8816,7 @@ from the proportions of Vitruvius, which, I presume,
are faithfully observed in the National Gallery, and
some modification of them, no doubt, in the Pavilion
at Brighton&mdash;which variations are gravely censured
-in the Maison Carrée; while, in order, doubtless, to
+in the Maison Carrée; while, in order, doubtless, to
shew our modern superiority, the French hodmen
have erected a theatre just opposite the Corinthian
temple, with a portico&mdash;heavens and earth! such a
@@ -8874,10 +8833,10 @@ building and stone-carving in the world.</p>
classic knowledge to enjoy the unearthly beauty of
the Corinthian temple. Give me a healthy-minded
youth, who has never heard of Alcibiades, Themistocles,
-Socrates, or Æschylus, but who has the natural
+Socrates, or Æschylus, but who has the natural
appreciation of beauty&mdash;who can admire the droop of
a lily, the spring of a deer, the flight of an eagle&mdash;set
-him opposite the Maison Carrée, and the sensation of
+him opposite the Maison Carrée, and the sensation of
divine, transcendant beauty, will rush into his heart
and brain, as when contemplating the flower, or beast
or bird. The big man in the parish at home will
@@ -8938,8 +8897,8 @@ bodies, living, for the most part, in separate <i>quartiers</i>;
marrying each party within itself; scandalising each
party the other whenever it has a chance; and carrying,
indeed, the party spirit so far as absolutely to
-have established Protestant <i>cafés</i> and Catholic <i>cafés</i>,
-the <i>habitués</i> of which will no more enter the rival
+have established Protestant <i>cafés</i> and Catholic <i>cafés</i>,
+the <i>habitués</i> of which will no more enter the rival
establishments than they would enter the opposition
churches.</p>
@@ -9109,7 +9068,7 @@ a poor weaver of Nismes, have the honour to be her
descendant."</p>
<p>That night I walked late along the Boulevards.
-Protestant <i>cafés</i> and Catholic <i>cafés</i> were full and
+Protestant <i>cafés</i> and Catholic <i>cafés</i> were full and
busy, and, no doubt, resounding with the polemics
of the warring creeds. Outside all, the by turns
straggling and crowded town lay, bathed in the most
@@ -9189,7 +9148,7 @@ other sense than the rule-of-thumb practice of ploughing,
sowing, reaping, and threshing, they know
literally nothing. Of the <i>rationale</i> of the management
of land&mdash;of the reasons why so and so should
-be done&mdash;they think no more than honest La Balafrè,
+be done&mdash;they think no more than honest La Balafrè,
whose only notion of a final cause was the command
of his superior officer. Thus they are bound down
in the most abject submission to every custom, for
@@ -9280,7 +9239,7 @@ while what in America would be called the "smart"
part of the population, are intriguing, and constructing
and undoing <i>complots</i>, in the towns. To all present
appearance, a score of dynasties may succeed
-each other in France before La Vendée takes its
+each other in France before La Vendée takes its
place beside Norfolk, or before Limousin rivals the
Lothians.</p>
@@ -9443,388 +9402,6 @@ of the world seeing a greater and bloodier
<p class="center pmb3"><span class="vsmall">HENRY VIZETELLY, PRINTER AND ENGRAVER, GOUGH SQUARE, FLEET STREET, LONDON.</span></p>
-
-
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-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
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