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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Jacquard Machines, by H. William Nelson
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: Jacquard Machines
-       Instruction Paper
-
-Author: H. William Nelson
-
-Release Date: November 22, 2015 [EBook #50532]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JACQUARD MACHINES ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Sharon Joiner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's Note
-
-Italic text is marked with _underscores_, bold text with ~tildes~.
-
-
-
-
-           JACQUARD MACHINES
-
-           INSTRUCTION PAPER
-
-
-              Prepared by
-
-           H. William Nelson
-
-     Head of Department of Weaving
-         Lowell Textile School
-
-
-   AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE
-
-   CHICAGO                  ILLINOIS
-
-               U. S. A.
-
-
-
-
-           Copyright 1909 by
-   American School of Correspondence
-
-  Entered at Stationers' Hall, London
-          All Rights Reserved
-
-
-
-
-  [Illustration: CROSS BORDER DOUBLE-LIFT JACQUARD MACHINE
-      Thomas Halton's Sons]
-
-
-
-
-JACQUARD MACHINES
-
-
-The term Jacquard Weaving may be applied to all harness weaving that
-is above the range of harness shafts, so that a jacquard machine is
-simply a shedding motion whereby a large variety of sheds may be
-formed. The greater the number of lifting hooks contained in a
-machine, the greater will be the range of patterns that may be woven.
-Jacquard machines range from 100 to 2600 hooks.
-
-Since its introduction the jacquard machine has undergone many changes
-in regard to the methods of operating the different parts of the
-machine, but the principles remain the same.
-
-Jacquard machines may be classed under four heads, as follows:
-_First_, Single Action Machines, meaning single cylinder machines;
-_second_, Double-Lift Single Cylinder Machines; _third_, Double Action
-Machines, meaning double-lift and two cylinders; and _fourth_, Rise
-and Fall Machines, which have a close-shed motion. There are also
-special machines.
-
-When speaking of a jacquard, all the parts comprising the machine and
-the harnesses are included. These may be classified as follows:
-
-(_a_) A number of wire hooks placed vertically in the frame of the
-machine.
-
-(_b_) A number of wire needles placed horizontally between the wire
-hooks.
-
-(_c_) A number of springs at one end of the needles.
-
-(_d_) Tail cords or neck bands attached to the bottom of the wire
-hooks.
-
-(_e_) Harness threads which are attached to a coupling that passes
-through the comber board.
-
-(_f_) The coupling, which is usually composed of three or four parts
-as follows:
-
-A lingo, usually made of various weights of wire and which is at the
-extreme end of the coupling; a double thread, commonly termed a
-hanger, which attaches the lingo to a mail eye; and the mail eye,
-through which the warp yarn is passed. When there are four parts, a
-double thread termed the mid-piece or sleeper is attached to the top
-of the eyelet and is then fixed to the harness threads mentioned at
-_e_.
-
-(_g_) The cylinder and its working parts.
-
-(_h_) The griffe levers.
-
-(_i_) The griffe.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 1. Hooks Resting on Perforated Board.]
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 2. Flat Hooks.]
-
-~Hooks.~ A description of the great variety of hooks and needles which
-have been used and which combine different ideas as to their relative
-values and adaption for the various machines in which they were or are
-used, will be both interesting and instructive.
-
-In the old jacquard machine the hooks rested on a perforated board,
-through which the neck cord passed, and the bottom of the hook was
-bent up about five inches, as shown in Fig. 1. Bars were passed
-through the turned up portion, as shown in the illustration, to
-prevent the hooks from turning. The bars formed a frame which was
-lifted when the griffe was raised.
-
-The next hook, as shown in Fig. 2, was flat. This also rested on a
-perforated board, and, to assist in keeping the hook in position, the
-needle was twisted around the hook. This kind of hook and needle
-required too much time and labor when one had to be replaced.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 3. Hook Sometimes Used on French Machines.]
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 4. Common Jacquard Hook.]
-
-The illustration, Fig. 3, shows the next form of hook that was used,
-and which is used at the present time in many French machines. This
-also rested on a perforated board. The chief object of this hook was
-to remove the necessity of having springs to force back the needles.
-At the point marked A, a rod passed through the hooks from one side of
-the machine to the other, which kept the hooks quite firm. Near the
-top of the hook at positions B and B¹, two more rods were placed, one
-being at the back of the hook and the other at the front, the bottom
-of the hook being held firmly, while the rod B pressing against the
-back portion of the hook caused a certain amount of spring.
-
-The rod B¹ was to prevent the hook from swinging under the blades of
-the griffe when the latter was descending. The needles used with this
-hook had an elbow which pressed against the front of the hook as shown
-at C.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 5. Showing Deep Griffe Blades.]
-
-What we shall term the ordinary shaped hook, but which formerly was
-much thicker, was next used. This is illustrated in Fig. 4. The lower
-portion of these hooks passes through a grate, each hook passing
-through a single slot. When first used, these hooks were often bent or
-"crowned" under the griffe as it descended. In some cases the trouble
-was due to the wire from which the hook was made, but more often it
-was due to there being too great a distance between the point where
-the needle was in contact with the hook, and the griffe, causing the
-hook to swing or vibrate. To overcome this defect, deep griffe blades
-(shown in Fig. 5) were introduced.
-
-The use of these deep blades made it difficult for the fixer to
-replace broken hooks, in addition to adding weight to the machine, so
-another change was made, deep and shallow blades being fixed
-alternately; using hooks shown in Fig. 6. In this arrangement the long
-hooks had a tendency to swing back under the short blade owing to the
-great length of the hook, when the loom was run at a high speed.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 6. Alternate Arrangement of Griffe Blades.]
-
-The hook illustrated in Fig. 7 was then introduced. It will be noted
-the wire extends some distance beyond the point when the wire was bent
-to catch on the blade of the griffe. While they were new, these hooks
-overcame the difficulty to a certain extent, but as soon as they
-became worn, the top portion of the wire would bend and break, falling
-into the machine.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 7. Showing Hook Extending Above Griffe.]
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 8. Hooks Used at the Present Time.]
-
-In most of the jacquard machines used at the present time, the griffe
-has been lowered to within approximately one inch of the top of the
-needles and the hooks have been made of stronger material (shown in
-Fig. 8), enabling a more compact machine to be made.
-
-
-
-
-SINGLE ACTION MACHINE
-
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 9. Single Action Jacquard Machine.]
-
-The illustration, Fig. 9, shows a jacquard known as the _Single Action
-Machine_. The chief feature of this machine is that the same griffe
-lifts the hooks for every shed, so the griffe must descend before the
-next shed can be lifted. This allows all the yarn to be lifted from
-the bottom shed. The single action machine is convenient and well
-adapted to work when a high speed is not required; ninety to one
-hundred thirty picks per minute being the most suitable speeds.
-
-In the silk industry the single action machine is extensively used as
-there is no danger of the cards becoming crossed. This is a very
-valuable feature as wrong picks are often placed in the cloth by a
-double cylinder machine through the skipping of the cards.
-
-~Construction.~ The single action is the original idea and is the
-simplest machine. Fig. 10 shows a sectional view of a 400-hook single
-machine. The meaning of the term 400-hook is as follows: There are
-four hundred hooks and four hundred needles in the machine which are
-in rows of eight hooks and eight needles. It also means that there are
-four hundred harness threads to one repeat of the maximum pattern that
-can be woven by the machine. Nearly all machines have a few extra
-hooks (from 16 to 26) which are often classed with the regular number
-of hooks, but are chiefly used for extra work, such as selvedge, extra
-harnesses, etc. A pattern of less than four hundred to a repeat can be
-woven, by casting out some of the hooks.
-
-Referring to Fig. 10, B is the needle board or plate, through which
-the points of the needles E protrude three-eighths or one-half inch. C
-is the griffe which is composed of eight blades; H is the spring box,
-containing four hundred brass springs which are placed against the
-back or loop ends of the needles, one spring for each needle. G is the
-grate through which the hooks F pass.
-
-_Needle Plate._ In some cases the needle plate is made of wood and in
-others it is made of metal, but the former is undoubtedly the more
-economical from every standpoint. Particularly is this shown in the
-single cylinder machines where the cylinder travels at a faster rate
-of speed than a double cylinder machine, consequently there is more
-movement and a larger amount of friction between the needle and needle
-board or plate, which results in rapidly wearing out the points of the
-needles if a metal plate is used. Worn needle points cause a large
-amount of trouble, for in single cylinder machines the cylinder has a
-tendency to half-turn when the lay is pushed back by hand, and when
-the cylinder returns to the needle points the corner of the cylinder
-presses against them and invariably bends a number of the points down
-on to the plate. This prevents some of the hooks which ought to be
-lifted from being lifted, and causes some hooks to be lifted which
-ought to be down.
-
-A composition of powdered black lead and French chalk was used to
-prevent the needle points from wearing out, but it was discarded
-because the dust was constantly dropping into the harnesses and yarn,
-and also was very disagreeable for the weaver.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 10. Showing Arrangement of Hooks, Needles,
-    Etc.]
-
-A needle board or plate for a 400-machine, has 416 holes, arranged in
-52 rows with 8 holes in a row. The rows are divided by a groove into
-26 rows on each side. There are also grooves at each end of the needle
-board. The grooves are for the lacings which hold the cards together.
-
-The lacing naturally makes the card occupy more space at the ends and
-center, because it passes along the upper and under sides of the card,
-and if there were no grooves in the needle board, the needles would
-have to be made longer so as to allow the points to protrude farther
-out from the needle board; or when the card was in contact with the
-needle points, the hooks would not be pressed back far enough to
-prevent them from being lifted. The grooves are also a great saving on
-the lacing of the cards, for if it came in close contact with the
-needle board every time the cylinder was drawn in, the lacing would
-soon be cut, and this often causes the breakage of cards.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 11. Showing Loops for Springs.]
-
-The reason for the extra rows of needles, is to allow the selvedge to
-be worked by that row of hooks; also because a jacquard sometimes has
-patterns added that require additional harness at the front and back
-of the comber board, and the extra needles are used for the working of
-the extra harness.
-
-_A spring box_ is seldom used on American machines to hold the springs
-that press back the needles, but where the spring box is dispensed
-with, a longer loop is made on the back end of the needle (see Fig.
-11) and the spring is placed on the loop, with the cotter, which holds
-the needles. The spring box, however, is most certainly of value if it
-is made to fit squarely in the framework of the machine. The springs
-are kept cleaner and consequently will give good results; and if a
-spring should break, it can be replaced more readily in a spring box
-than if it were on the end of a needle.
-
-There is, however, one disadvantage in using the spring box, for when
-the hole, through which the bolt, which holds the box in position,
-passes, has become worn, some of the needles will be pressing against
-the edge of the spring instead of the center, unless care is taken in
-fixing on the box. This causes the needles to stick in the box,
-preventing the hooks from working as they ought to do.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 12. Hooks Out of Perpendicular with
-    Needles.]
-
-_When placing hooks and needles in a machine_, one row of eight
-needles is placed in first; that is, the needles are passed through
-the bars that extend across the machine from side to side, and into
-the holes in the needle board. On the bars the loop of the needle
-rests, the bars keeping each 52 needles separate. The first needle is
-the one that has the half circle, through which the hook passes,
-nearest the needle board at the top (see Fig. 10), and the others are
-graded down until the eighth is placed in. This will be the bottom
-needle with the half circle nearest the spring box H.
-
-When the cotter has been placed through the loop of the needles, the
-hooks are placed in among the needles. The first hook is pressed
-through the half circle of the needle and passes on the outside of the
-others, which keeps the hook in position. The second is placed through
-the half circle of the second needle, but passes on the outside of
-the first needle and on the outside of the lower needles. This rule is
-followed out until the eighth hook is placed in position.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 13. Hooks Out of Perpendicular with
-    Needles.]
-
-The grate through which the hooks pass is sometimes made with extra
-rows of holes, and is also made so that it can be moved around to help
-in the setting of the hooks. For this reason, it is best, after
-placing in one row of hooks, to notice if they are straight in the
-grate. If they are not straight, and cannot be made straight by moving
-the grate, the next row of holes must be used. If the hooks are not
-straight, even though they may work freely, the needles, hooks and
-grate will be worn out in a very short time.
-
-The hook that passes through the first needle is considered the first
-thread in the pattern, although when standing in front of a single
-action machine, it is the last thread. In a machine that has the
-needle board divided into twenty-six rows at one side of the middle,
-and twenty-five at the other side, the twenty-six rows are always at
-the left-hand side of the machine, looking at the point of the
-needles. (So that the number end of the cards will be at the left hand
-side of the machine, looking at the top needle board.)
-
-When all the needles and hooks have been placed in the machine, the
-frame, in which the bars that support the top of the needle are fixed,
-must be made perfectly straight with the needle board. If they are not
-straight with each other, there is endless trouble with the machine.
-In the first place, the loop of the needle presses down the spring
-when the needle is forced back by the card, instead of pressing the
-spring back straight in the box. This will cause the springs to wear
-out sooner and they will often stick, preventing the hooks from being
-lifted.
-
-In the second place, the needle points will not be straight in the
-needle board. This causes the hole in the board to be worn crooked,
-also, the dust and oil that get into the back portion of the board has
-a greater tendency to bind the needles when they are not straight. The
-holes in the needle board at the back are counter sunk, which allows
-the needles to be placed in more readily when the machine is being
-fixed up, or when a broken needle has to be replaced.
-
-When the hooks and needles have been fixed, the grate, needle board
-and needle frame adjusted, the spring box is attached and every needle
-is tested and made to work freely. After this is done, the griffe is
-placed in the machine. It is absolutely necessary that the griffe be
-made to lift straight, and each blade or knife must be in exact
-position relative to the hooks, or there will be a number of the hooks
-either "crowned" or not lifted when they ought to be. The griffe is
-made so that each side can be moved either forward or backward, but it
-is sometimes necessary to bend one or two blades of the griffe so as
-to have them straight with the hooks. Figs. 12, 13 and 14 show crooked
-hooks and needles.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 14.]
-
-_When the griffe is set_, the top of the blade ought to be just
-touching the hook. If the hook is pressing too hard against the blade,
-either the needle point must extend farther out from the needle board,
-or the cylinder has to press hard against the needle board when the
-hooks have to be pressed off the griffe. Either case is detrimental to
-the machine. In the first instance, the cylinder requires to pass
-farther out from the needle board, to allow the cards to clear the
-needle points when the cylinder is being turned, or there is a
-possibility of the edge of the card catching on the needle points,
-preventing the cylinder from turning, and causing misspicks. In the
-second instance, if the cylinder presses too hard against the needle
-board, the lacing is often cut, and the needles have a tendency to
-pierce the card where it is blank.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 15. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and
-    Independent Batten Motion.]
-
-Having set all the inner parts of the machine, the next in order is
-the tying on of the neck cords. Carelessness in the setting of the
-inner parts so far mentioned cannot afterwards be rectified, and means
-the loss of years of work from the machine besides having endless
-trouble during the time it is working.
-
-~The Outer Workings of the Machine.~ There are five distinct methods
-of operating the movable parts of the machine: _First_, top or
-overhead lever lift and independent batten or swing cylinder motion;
-_second_, overhead lever and spindle cylinder motion; _third_,
-overhead lever and independent slide cylinder motion; _fourth_, bottom
-or cradle lever lift, and independent spindle cylinder motion; and
-_fifth_, bottom or cradle lever lift and spindle cylinder motion.
-
-The first method is illustrated by Fig. 15. It consists of a lever at
-the top of the machine, or in some instances suspended from the beam
-that supports the ceiling. The inner end of the lever is connected by
-a link to the crossbar of the griffe. This must be fixed exactly in
-the center of the crossbar so as to give a straight lift to the
-griffe. To the outer end of the lever, a long driving rod is attached.
-The bottom end of the driving rod is placed on a stud attached to the
-hand wheel, which is fixed on the crank shaft of the boom when the
-machine is a single lift. The overhead lever is from thirty-six to
-forty inches long, according to the width of the loom. On the
-thirty-six inch lever the inner end, which is attached to the crossbar
-from the link to the supporting stud, fixed in the bracket attached to
-the framework of the machine, is about ten and one-half inches long,
-and the longer end, which is attached to the lifting rod, is
-twenty-four to twenty-five and two-thirds inches long. The throw from
-the center of shaft to the stud fixed to the hand wheel is four
-inches. This gives an eight inch stroke on the hand wheel.
-
-    10½ × 8
-    -------  = 3⅓ inches
-      25
-
-Allowing for the fall of the griffe below the bend of the hook the
-movement will give about a three-inch shed in the harnesses.
-
-The batten or swing cylinder movement is shown in detail in Fig. 16.
-It is composed of five distinct parts as follows:
-
-(_a_) Two small arms are fixed at the top of the machine, one at each
-side. Two pointed set screws with lock nuts are set in the arms and
-the batten or swing is supported on these points.
-
-(_b_) The batten, which is in the form of a square iron frame.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 16. Details of Batten or Swing Cylinder
-    Motion.]
-
-(_c_) Two cups set in the batten frame, which support the cylinder.
-The cups are made of iron or brass and are held in place by a bolt
-with thumb screw on the outside of the frame of the batten. Set into
-the bottom of the batten frame and pressing upwards against the cups,
-are two set screws whose purpose is to raise or lower the cylinder.
-
-(_d_) The cylinder. This is a square prism with a number of holes
-bored on each side to correspond with the needles in the machine. On
-each of the four sides of the cylinder and near each end there is a
-small brass peg (shown in Fig. 17) for the purpose of holding the card
-in the correct position on the cylinder. (The perforations in the
-cards should be over the holes in the cylinder). The pegs are set so
-they can be adjusted to the right or left. At the ends of the cylinder
-square iron castings with rounded edges are fixed.
-
-(_e_) A spring hammer, the flat end of which rests on the casting on
-the end of the cylinder. What might be termed the handle of the hammer
-passes through the lower cross rail of the bottom frames and through
-the top frame. A spring is placed between the two rails and around the
-handle of the hammer. The object of the hammer is to keep the cylinder
-perfectly level so that the cylinder will strike the board level.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 17. Spring Peg.]
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 18. Cylinder Out of True with Needle Board.]
-
-Flat springs also are attached to the inside of the batten, the lower
-end of the spring pressing the card to the cylinder. It is impossible
-to overestimate the value of these springs, especially on single
-cylinder machines, for it would be almost impossible to work without
-them. Their great value is shown when the cylinder is leaving the
-needle board by preventing the card from swinging on to the points of
-the needles, and also preventing the cards from slipping off the pegs
-as the cylinder is drawn over by the catch.
-
-The catch is fixed to the framework of the machine, and rests on the
-square casting fixed to the end of the cylinder. As the cylinder moves
-out, the catch comes in contact with the rounded edges of the square
-and in this manner the cylinder is turned. There is also another catch
-fixed underneath, but it is not in contact with the cylinder, and is
-adjusted so that it can be raised up in contact and the top catch
-raised from contact with the cylinder. This permits the cylinder to be
-turned back when a lost pick has to be found.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 19. Iron Bar Supporting Batten Frame.]
-
-At each side of the batten frame toward the lower end, an arm is
-fixed. To these arms rods that extend downward are attached, and each
-rod is fixed to an arm that is set-screwed on a shaft supported by
-brackets fixed to the arch of the loom. At the end of this shaft
-another arm is fixed and is connected to the eccentric rod that is
-attached to the clamp that encircles the cam or eccentric. The cam is
-for the purpose of imparting motion to the batten. The cam generally
-used to operate the batten is about three and one-half inches from
-center of movement to extreme outside length of cam. The cylinder is
-moved out from the needle board from two to three inches.
-
-_For the saving of cards_, a great deal depends upon the movement that
-is imparted to the cylinder. The less movement that can be given to
-the cylinder, the better; that is, of course, when obtaining the
-results required. The cylinder ought to be about one-quarter inch from
-the needle points when commencing to turn. Sometimes it is necessary
-to have the cylinder a little farther out, especially when the cards
-have been stored in a damp place and become warped so that they do not
-lie flat on the cylinder. In this case, unless the cylinder is a
-little farther out from the needle points when commencing to turn, the
-edge of the card will catch on the needle points. This will throw the
-cards off the pegs and cause a pick-out. If the distance traveled by
-the cylinder is too short, it causes too sharp a turning of the
-cylinder, which has a tendency to jump the cards from the pegs; and if
-the cylinder moves out too far, there is too much friction on the
-working parts, as the larger distance has to be traveled in the same
-space of time as the shorter distance.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 20. Spindle Cylinder Motion.]
-
-When setting the batten frame by either the set screws or the arms to
-which the set screws are attached, the principal point is that the
-cylinder must be flat against the needle board, both at the top and
-bottom of the board, and have the needle points as near the center of
-the holes in the cylinder as possible. It is particularly desirable
-that all points be square and straight with the batten motion, because
-the batten, moving from a top connection, performs an arc movement,
-and if the cylinder does not lie flat against the needle board, some
-of the hooks will not be pressed far enough off the griffe, or the
-points of the needles will come in contact with the sides or bottom of
-the holes in the cylinder and in that case, hooks will be down when
-they ought to be lifted. Fig. 18 shows the cylinder set crooked with
-the needle board.
-
-The set screw support for the batten frame is a very objectional
-feature as will readily be seen, for the frame resting and working on
-two points is a great strain and some part of the screw soon becomes
-worn. This, of course, lowers the cylinder. When the cylinder is
-adjusted by turning the set screw, the frame is not only raised higher
-but is moved to the right or left, which throws the cylinder out of
-place, thus making double the amount of work to adjust it.
-
-The method of supporting a batten frame on an iron bar is by far the
-best, as by this arrangement, the cylinder can be directly adjusted.
-The illustration given in Fig. 19, shows this method of supporting the
-cylinder.
-
-In the second method of operating the movable parts (see Fig. 20) the
-top motion remains the same as in the first, but the method of
-operating the cylinder is different. Fixed to each side of the square
-iron frame that supports the cylinder, is an iron spindle, which
-passes through two brackets which act as slides for the spindle and
-are fixed to the frame of the machine. Attached to this cylinder
-spindle is a two-inch cranked slotted arm. Attached to the spindle of
-the griffe is a small extension on which an iron roller is placed.
-This iron roller sets in the slot of the cranked arm; the slot arm
-being about seven inches long. The seven inches is divided into three
-parts, the top and lower portions being perpendicular, to allow a rest
-for the cylinder when it is out from the needle board, and also when
-it is in contact with the needle board. As the griffe is lifted, the
-roller passing up the slot of the cranked arm forces out the cylinder.
-The distance the cylinder is moved cannot be changed to any great
-extent, neither can the time of the cylinder be changed, so that when
-a warped set of cards is being used, there is always the tendency for
-the cards to catch on the needle points.
-
-In the third movement (see Fig. 21), the top motion is the same as the
-first and second, but the cylinder movement is distinct. A flat, iron
-casting which acts as a slide, is placed on each side of the machine.
-These slides are supported by small iron rollers, which are placed in
-brackets fixed to the frame of the machine. At the end of the slide, a
-brass cup for the cylinder and the spring hammer is fixed. A stud is
-attached to the slide. The rod connected to the clamp of the cam (or
-what is called the eccentric rod) extends upwards and is attached to
-an arm that is set-screwed on a shaft, but extends upwards. This
-movement is one of the best. The brackets that support the rollers
-are adjustable but seldom in the life of a harness do they require
-adjusting, for if the rollers are well oiled they last many years,
-because the friction is at the lowest possible point.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 21. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Slide
-    Cylinder Motion.]
-
-In the fourth movement a square cradle lever is placed in brackets
-near the feet of the machine, and connected to the top of the griffe
-spindle by means of an arm attached to the end of the cradle lever.
-This is shown in the double-lift machine, Fig. 22. There is an arm at
-each side of the machine that is connected to the cradle lever. To the
-outer end of the lever the long lifting rod is attached. The length of
-the square lever is generally twenty-eight inches from fulcrum to
-connection of long lifting rod, and ten inches on the shorter end.
-This gives about a four-inch lift to the griffe. The cylinder is
-driven by an independent spindle motion. An iron spindle is attached
-to the frame that supports the cylinder. The spindle passes through
-two slide brackets fixed to the sides of the machine. Between the two
-brackets and set-screwed on the spindle is an extension with a stud
-attached to the top of it. On this stud, the connecting arm from the
-lever is placed. The lever is supported at the top of the same bracket
-that supports the square lifting lever. To the outer end of the lever
-the eccentric rod is attached, but instead of using a cam to give
-motion to the cylinder, one part of a double crank is used, the other
-portion is used for lifting the griffe.
-
-The fifth method is the same as the fourth with the exception that the
-cylinder is operated by the slotted crank arm same as in the second
-method.
-
-
-
-
-DOUBLE-LIFT AND SINGLE CYLINDER MACHINES
-
-
-The illustration, Fig. 22, shows a machine of this type. The same
-methods are used to operate this kind of machine as are used with the
-single action with this exception that there must be two lifting
-levers, either overhead or cradle levers. The reason for using this
-kind of machine is to have an open shed motion, and to gain a little
-extra speed; but this naturally drives the cylinder faster,
-consequently there is a greater damage done to the cards unless great
-care is taken with them and additional appliances used to prevent them
-from jumping off the pegs.
-
-The needles and hooks used in this kind of machine are shown in Fig.
-23. Each needle has two eyes or curves. The reason for two eyes is as
-follows: There is but one cylinder and two griffes, one of which is
-descending while the other is ascending. The cylinder has to pass in
-for every pick; that is, for each lift of the griffe, which
-necessitates the use of double the number of hooks; so that in a
-400-machine, there are 800 hooks, without the extra ones. The top bend
-of every hook is turned in the same direction, that is, toward the
-needle board.
-
-The hook that is used on this machine requires a deep bend at the top
-so as to have a firm grip on the griffe blade. This is necessitated by
-the method of controlling two hooks with one needle, for it sometimes
-happens that one hook is lifted while the other is pressed back by the
-cylinder, so that the same thread will not be lifted for the next
-pick.
-
-The bottom of the hook is made in the form of a capital letter V. The
-reason for this is that it saves a considerable amount of friction by
-allowing the bottom of the hook that is lifted to move back a little
-as the "partner" hook is being pressed by the needle. This shape of
-hook saves the grate through which the bottom of the hook passes. Fig.
-23 shows the position occupied by the hooks when one hook is lifted
-and the other hook (which passes through the same needle) is pressed
-off. The dotted lines show the original positions of the hooks.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 22. Double-Lift and Single Cylinder
-    Machine.]
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 23. Needles and Hooks Used in Double-Lift
-    and Single Cylinder Machines.]
-
-In addition to the added friction on the needles and hooks, it takes
-considerably more time to replace a worn needle than it does in
-machines where single needles are used, for a rod has to be
-temporarily inserted that will press to one side the two hooks around
-which the needle has to go, and it is often necessary to take out the
-hooks until the needle has been replaced, particularly if the machine
-is an old one, or if deep blades are used in the griffe.
-
-
-
-
-DOUBLE ACTION MACHINE
-
-
-This means that there are two griffes and two cylinders. The same
-methods are used to operate the moving parts, as are used on the
-single action machines, but the lever and arms are used in a compound
-manner. This machine is undoubtedly the best, where large reproduction
-is aimed at, for it can be run 170 or 180 picks per minute. The
-illustration, Fig. 24, shows a double action machine.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 24. Double Action Jacquard Machine.]
-
-~The shedding motion~ is obtained by means of a double crank fixed on
-the end of the pick cam shaft, and to which the long lifting rods are
-attached. This is shown in Fig. 25. Cams have been used to take the
-place of the double crank, so as to allow a dwell for the shed while
-the shuttle is passing through. It is particularly desirable in a
-broad loom to have the shed full open for a longer period in order to
-give clearance for the shuttle, but the cam motion was proven to be
-somewhat detrimental, owing to the quick rise and fall of the
-harnesses, which causes the lingoes to jump and to be constantly
-breaking off. The neck cords also were constantly breaking. The cam
-movement could be used successfully with a jacquard that had not many
-harness threads attached to the neck cords, and had heavier lingoes
-fixed to the harnesses, but for general use, the double crank is best,
-as it gives a more even movement. There is also a short dwell while
-passing around the extended part of the crank.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 25.]
-
-The time to set the crank is to have it level, that is, the two
-extreme points horizontal, when the crank shaft is a little ahead of
-the bottom center, or to have the reed about 1½ inches from the cloth
-when the shed is level.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 26. Showing Connection of Neck Cords to
-    Hooks.]
-
-Owing to the general formation of the double action machine, that is,
-the use of two hooks for one set of harness threads, there is a
-somewhat uneven movement to the harnesses. When a griffe is descending
-and some of the hooks that are on the griffe are to be lifted for the
-next shed, and the hooks are passing each other at the center of
-movement, the angle of the harness threads is changed, for as one hook
-is lifted from the top shed, the neck cord attached to the hook that
-is at the bottom is slack. When this hook is raised for the next pick,
-at the point when all the slack cord is taken up, the uneven movement
-is caused, the harnesses swinging over into the line with the lifting
-hook. The results from this movement are not so harmful if the
-jacquard is tied up proportionally and run at the right speed; but
-when the machine is run too fast and the lingoes are too light, also
-when the neck cord is too short, a large amount of trouble is caused.
-Instead of connecting the harnesses to the hooks, by means of two neck
-cords, one is used as shown in Fig. 26. The link answers the purpose
-for which it is intended, that is, to take away the slack neck cord.
-It also reduced the uneven movement. However, unless the hooks are
-kept perfectly straight, the link will not work, and it is common for
-a hook to be bent a little underneath the grate.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 27. Arrangement of Needles and Hooks in
-    Double Action Machine.]
-
-When one neck cord breaks on the ordinary double action machine, the
-defect is not readily seen, because the harness cord will be lifted by
-the other hook, unless it is a pattern where that particular hook from
-which the cord has broken is lifted very often. When the link is used,
-all the harness threads that are attached to the link will fall, owing
-to the use of only one neck cord; this also occurs on the single
-action machine.
-
-~Needles.~ The illustration Fig. 27 shows the arrangement of needles
-in a double action machine. The first needle at the top marked A,
-controls the hook B, passing down in regular order until the bottom
-needle in the right hand needle board, marked C, controls the hook D.
-The first needle in the left hand or bottom needle board, marked E,
-controls the hook F, which is the partner to D, that is, F and D
-control the same harness threads, as will be noticed by the connection
-at the bottom G. The eighth needle in the bottom needle board, marked
-H, controls the hook K, which is the partner hook to B. The bottom set
-of needles is exactly like the top set. They are placed in the same
-relative position, but work from the opposite direction.
-
-There being two cylinders on this type of machine, one passes in as
-the other is going out. Both cylinders turn toward the machine as
-indicated by the arrows, and a glance at the two cards A and B with
-holes marked 1 and 2, and needles marked the same will show the two
-hooks F and D control the same harness threads.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 28. Showing Levers, Supports and Studs.]
-
-It will be noticed that one hook has the top bend bent backward, while
-the other bends forward in the same direction as the lower bend of the
-hook. The reason for this latter is that it would require more space
-in the grate and the needles would have to be longer, which would make
-a broader machine if the same shape of hook were used; so that by the
-use of these hooks, considerable space is gained.
-
-When cutting cards for a double action machine, each card is cut from
-the design singly, just the same as if cutting cards for a single
-action machine. After the cards are cut, they are divided, the odd
-numbers from the even numbers, so that when laced they form, as it
-were, two sets of cards, one set being placed at one side of the
-machine and the other set at the other side of the machine.
-
-A double action machine is composed of double the number of working
-parts that are on a single action machine, but they are placed so as
-to work in different directions, with the exception that with an
-independent cylinder motion only one eccentric rod is used, and the
-eccentric is placed on the pick cam shaft. But if the cylinders are
-operated by a spindle motion, a slotted crank arm is attached to the
-lifting rod of each griffe and the cylinder is moved out as the griffe
-to which it is attached is raised, one cylinder moving out from
-contact with the needle board as the griffe, that comes in contact
-with the hook controlled by the needles of that board, is raised, at
-the same time the other cylinder is passing in towards the needle
-board while the second griffe is descending.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 29. Rack Method of Lifting Griffe.]
-
-When using the cradle lever on a double action machine, it is
-necessary to have two different sizes of lifting cranks to allow extra
-lift for the difference in length of the levers, owing to one of the
-levers working on the inside of the other. The length of levers used
-is about 30 inches for the longer end, from fulcrum to connection of
-lifting rod, and 13 inches for the shortest end on the longer lever.
-Fulcrum to connection of lifting arm on the shorter lever is 25
-inches, and 10 inches on the shorter end. The double crank is made so
-that the one with the 12-inch stroke is attached to the shorter lever,
-and the 10-inch stroke operates the longer lever.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 30. Pulley and Belt for Lifting Griffe.]
-
-The cradle lever lift is used only on machines that have the harnesses
-attached to them by the cross tie system, because by the straight tie
-system the machine is turned in the opposite direction; that is, one
-set of cards would be over the cloth in the loom, and the other set
-over the warp; and in the cross tie system the cards are over the
-sides of the loom or over shuttle boxes.
-
-The top lever lift is considered by many to be the best method of
-operating the griffes, and this method can be used whether the
-harnesses are attached by the straight tie or the cross tie system.
-All that is required to be changed is that where as in the straight
-tie both the levers are on the same stud, and fixed to one support,
-the levers for the cross tie are placed on separate studs with
-separate supports. The reason for using separate supports and studs is
-to meet the different positions of the griffe bar. (See Fig. 28.)
-
-Other lifting methods have been successfully tried on double action
-machines; one being a rack movement shown in Fig. 29 and another a
-pulley and belt lift shown in Fig. 30.
-
-The rack movement is as follows: A 1½-inch iron shaft is supported in
-bearings fixed to the top of the machine. This shaft extends over the
-end of the machine. The supports are bolted to the cross rail of the
-griffe, and on these supports the racks are fixed. The shaft passes
-between the two racks, and the gear is fixed on the shaft in contact
-with the rack. An arm is set-screwed on the outer end of the shaft,
-and to this arm a long lifting rod is attached. The bottom of the rod
-is placed on a stud attached to the face of a round iron plate that is
-set-screwed on the pick cam shaft.
-
-  [Illustration: Fig. 31. Type of Rise and Fall Machine.]
-
-In Fig. 30 the pulley A is supported on a shaft in the same position
-as the gear for the rack motion, and to the pulley a strip of belting
-B is attached, each end being fixed to the cross rail of the griffe at
-C. The belt motion is a simple arrangement, but the griffe must act
-freely and perfectly straight or the griffe will not descend low
-enough to allow the hooks to be pressed off by the cylinder.
-
-
-
-
-THE RISE AND FALL OR CLOSE SHED MACHINE
-
-
-The illustration, Fig. 31, shows a machine of this type. Its purpose
-is to have all the harnesses level at the center movement. The same
-working parts are used on this machine as are used on the single
-action, the distinctive difference being that cranked levers are
-attached to the usual lifting levers so that the grate through which
-the hooks pass can be raised and lowered, and so that the griffe is
-raised only half the usual distance.
-
-After the cylinder has pressed off the hooks that are not to be
-lifted, the grate descends with these hooks, and at the same time the
-griffe raises the hooks that are to be lifted.
-
-On some rise and fall machines, a batten cylinder motion is used, but
-is fixed in the opposite position from the usual batten motion; that
-is, the batten swings from the bottom instead of from the top of the
-machine, the set screws that hold it in position being placed in
-brackets fixed near the feet of the machine.
-
-These machines cannot be run at a high speed, 130 being considered
-average, but faster speed is obtained when the pattern is equally
-balanced so that about the same number of ends are raised, as are
-falling. This style of machine is now extensively used for weaving
-table cloths, silk goods, etc.
-
-
-
-
-EXAMINATION PAPER
-
-
-JACQUARD MACHINES
-
-~Read carefully:~ Place your name and full address at the head of the
-paper. Any cheap, light paper like the sample previously sent you may
-be used. Do not crowd your work, but arrange it neatly and legibly.
-_Do not copy the answers from the Instruction Paper; use your own
-words, so that we may be sure that you understand the subject._
-
-
-    1. To what may the term "Jacquard Weaving" be applied?
-
-    2. What are the classifications of Jacquard machines?
-
-    3. What are the chief features of the single action machine?
-
-    4. In what industry is the single action machine most extensively
-    used?
-
-    5. What is the use of the extra row of needles in the single
-    action machine?
-
-    6. How many methods are there for operating the movable parts of
-    a machine, and what are they?
-
-    7. What are the reasons for using "double-lift" and "single
-    cylinder" machines?
-
-    8. Why do the needles of double-lift and single cylinder machines
-    have two eyes?
-
-    9. Why does the hook on a double-lift and single cylinder machine
-    require a deep band at the top?
-
-    10. Why is the bottom of the hook made like the capital letter V?
-
-    11. Describe in detail a double action machine.
-
-    12. Why are two different sizes of lifting cranks necessary in
-    using a cradle lever on a double action machine?
-
-    13. What is the "rack" movement?
-
-    14. Describe the rise and fall machine.
-
-    15. Describe fully the working of the Jacquard machine.
-
-    16. How are the cords handled in a Jacquard machine?
-
-
-~After completing the work, add and sign the following statement:~
-
-    I hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own.
-
-      (Signed)
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber's Note
-
-Minor punctuation errors have been corrected. Hyphenation has been
-made consistent.
-
-The following amendment has been made:
-
-    Page 20--extention amended to extension--... is a small
-    extention on which an iron roller is placed.
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Jacquard Machines, by H. William Nelson
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