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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Famous Missions of California, by
+William Henry Hudson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Famous Missions of California
+
+Author: William Henry Hudson
+
+Release Date: March, 2004  [EBook #5211]
+Posting Date: March 28, 2009
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Schwan
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA
+
+
+by William Henry Hudson
+
+Lately Professor of English Literature at Stanford University,
+
+
+
+     To
+
+     Bonnie Burckhalter Fletcher
+
+     With Affectionate Recollections of California Days
+
+
+
+     London, England, 1901
+
+
+
+Contents.
+
+
+
+  I.    Of Junipero Serra, and the proposed settlement of Alta California.
+  II.   How Father Junipero came to San Diego.
+  III.  Of the founding of the Mission at San Diego.
+  IV.   Of Portola's quest for the harbour of Monterey, and the founding
+            of the Mission of San Carlos.
+  V.    How Father Junipero established the Missions of San Antonio de
+            Padua, San Gabriel, and San Louis Obispo.
+  VI.   Of the tragedy at San Diego, and the founding of the Missions of
+            San Juan Capistrano, San Francisco, and Santa Clara.
+  VII.  Of the establishment of the Mission of San Buenaventura, and of
+            the death and character of Father Junipero.
+  VIII. How the Missions of Santa Barbara, La Purisima Concepcion, Santa
+            Cruz, Soledad, San Jose, San Juan Bautista, San Miguel, San
+            Fernando, San Luis Rey, and Santa Inez, were added to the list.
+  IX.   Of the founding of the Missions of San Rafael and San Francisco
+            Solano.
+  X.    Of the downfall of the Missions of California.
+  XI.   Of the old Missions, and life in them.
+  XII.  Of the Mission system in California, and its results.
+
+
+
+
+THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA.
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+
+
+On the 1st of July, 1769--a day forever memorable in the annals of
+California--a small party of men, worn out by the fatigues and hardships
+of their long and perilous journey from San Fernandez de Villicata,
+came in sight of the beautiful Bay of San Diego. They formed the
+last division of a tripartite expedition which had for its object the
+political and spiritual conquest of the great Northwest coast of the
+Pacific; and among their number were Gaspar de Portola, the colonial
+governor and military commander of the enterprise; and Father Junipero
+Serra, with whose name and achievements the early history of California
+is indissolubly bound up.
+
+This expedition was the outcome of a determination on the part of Spain
+to occupy and settle the upper of its California provinces, or Alta
+California, as it was then called, and thus effectively prevent the more
+than possible encroachments of the Russians and the English. Fully alive
+to the necessity of immediate and decisive action, Carlos III. had sent
+Jose de Galvez out to New Spain, giving him at once large powers
+as visitador general of the provinces, and special instructions to
+establish military posts at San Diego and Monterey. Galvez was a man of
+remarkable zeal, energy, and organizing ability, and after the manner of
+his age and church he regarded his undertaking as equally important from
+the religious and from the political side. The twofold purpose of his
+expedition was, as he himself stated it, "to establish the Catholic
+faith among a numerous heathen people, submerged in the obscure darkness
+of paganism, and to extend the dominion of the King, our Lord, and
+protect this peninsula from the ambitious views of foreign nations."
+From the first it was his intention that the Cross and the flag of Spain
+should be carried side by side in the task of dominating and colonizing
+the new country. Having, therefore, gathered his forces together at
+Santa Ana, near La Paz, he sent thence to Loreto, inviting Junipero
+Serra, the recently appointed President of the California Missions, to
+visit him in his camp. Loreto was a hundred leagues distant; but this
+was no obstacle to the religious enthusiast, whose lifelong dream it had
+been to bear the faith far and wide among the barbarian peoples of
+the Spanish world. He hastened to La Paz, and in the course of a long
+interview with Galvez not only promised his hearty co-operation, but
+also gave great help in the arrangement of the preliminary details of
+the expedition.
+
+In the opportunity thus offered him for the missionary labour in
+hitherto unbroken fields, Father Junipero saw a special manifestation
+both of the will and of the favour of God. He threw himself into the
+work with characteristic ardour and determination, and Galvez quickly
+realized that his own efforts were now to be ably seconded by a man who,
+by reason of his devotion, courage, and personal magnetism, might well
+seem to have been providentially designated for the task which had been
+put into his hands.
+
+Miguel Joseph Serra, now known only by his adopted name of Junipero,
+which he took out of reverence for the chosen companion of St. Francis,
+was a native of the Island of Majorca, where he was born, of humble
+folk, in 1713. According to the testimony of his intimate friend and
+biographer, Father Francesco Palou, his desires, even during boyhood,
+were turned towards the religious life. Before he was seventeen he
+entered the Franciscan Order, a regular member of which he became a year
+or so later. His favorite reading during his novitiate, Palou tells us,
+was in the Lives of the Saints, over which he would pore day after
+day with passionate and ever-growing enthusiasm; and from these devout
+studies sprang an intense ambition to "imitate the holy and venerable
+men" who had given themselves up to the grand work of carrying the
+Gospel among gentiles and savages. The missionary idea thus implanted
+became the dominant purpose of his life, and neither the astonishing
+success of his sermons, nor the applause with which his lectures were
+received when he was made professor of theology, sufficed to dampen his
+apostolic zeal. Whatever work was given him to do, he did with all
+his heart, and with all his might, for such was the man's nature; but
+everywhere and always he looked forward to the mission field as his
+ultimate career. He was destined, however, to wait many years before his
+chance came. At length, in 1749, after making many vain petitions to
+be set apart for foreign service, he and Palou were offered places in
+a body of priests who, at the urgent request of the College of San
+Fernando, in Mexico, were then being sent out as recruits to various
+parts of the New World. The hour had come; and in a spirit of gratitude
+and joy too deep for words, Junipero Serra set his face towards the far
+lands which were henceforth to be his home.
+
+The voyage out was long and trying. In the first stage of it--from
+Majorca to Malaga--the dangers and difficulties of seafaring were
+varied, if not relieved by strange experiences, of which Palou has
+left us a quaint and graphic account. Their vessel was a small English
+coaster, in command of a stubborn cross-patch of a captain, who combined
+navigation with theology, and whose violent protestations and fondness
+for doctrinal dispute allowed his Catholic passengers, during the
+fifteen days of their passage, scarcely a minute's peace. His habit was
+to declaim chosen texts out of his "greasy old" English Bible, putting
+his own interpretation upon them; then, if when challenged by Father
+Junipero, who "was well trained in dogmatic theology," he could find
+no verse to fit his argument, he would roundly declare that the leaf he
+wanted happened to be torn. Such methods are hardly praiseworthy. But
+this was not the worst. Sometimes the heat of argument would prove too
+much for him, and then, I grieve to say, he would even threaten to pitch
+his antagonists overboard, and shape his course for London. However,
+despite this unlooked-for danger, Junipero and his companions finally
+reached Malaga, whence they proceeded first to Cadiz, and then, after
+some delay, to Vera Cruz. The voyage across from Cadiz alone occupied
+ninety-nine days, though of these, fifteen were spent at Porto Rico,
+where Father Junipero improved the time by establishing a mission.
+Hardships were not lacking; for water and food ran short, and the vessel
+encountered terrific storms. But "remembering the end for which they had
+come," the father "felt no fear", and his own buoyancy did much to keep
+up the flagging spirits of those about him. Even when Vera Cruz was
+reached, the terrible journey was by no means over, for a hundred
+Spanish leagues lay between that port and the City of Mexico. Too
+impatient to wait for the animals and wagons which had been promised for
+transportation, but which, through some oversight or blunder, had not
+yet arrived in Vera Cruz, Junipero set out to cover the distance on
+foot. The strain brought on an ulcer in one of his legs, from which he
+suffered all the rest of his life; and it is highly probable that he
+would have died on the road but for the quite unexpected succor which
+came to him more than once in the critical hour. This, according to his
+wont, he did not fail to refer directly to the special favour of the
+Virgin and St. Joseph.
+
+For nearly nineteen years after his arrival in Mexico, Junipero was
+engaged in active missionary work, mainly among the Indians of the
+Sierra Gorda, whom he successfully instructed in the first principles
+of the Catholic faith and in the simpler arts of peace. Then came his
+selection as general head, or president, of the Missions of California,
+the charge of which, on the expulsion of the Jesuits, in 1768, had
+passed over to the Franciscans. These, thirteen in number, were all in
+Lower California, for no attempt had as yet been made to evangelize
+the upper province. This, however, the indefatigable apostle was now to
+undertake by co-operating with Jose de Galvez in his proposed northwest
+expedition [1]. Junipero was now fifty-five years of age, and could look
+back upon a career of effort and accomplishment which to any less active
+man might well seem to have earned repose for body and mind. Yet great
+as his services to church and civilization had been in the past, by far
+the most important part of his life-work still lay before him.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+
+As a result of the conference between Galvez and Father Junipero, it
+was decided that their joint expedition should be sent out in two
+portions--one by sea and one by land; the land portion being again
+sub-divided into two, in imitation, Palou informs us, of the policy
+of the patriarch Joseph, "so that if one came to misfortune, the other
+might still be saved." It was arranged that four missionaries should go
+into the ships, and one with the advance-detachment of the land-force,
+the second part of which was to include the president himself. So far as
+the work of the missionaries was concerned their immediate purpose was
+to establish three settlements--one at San Diego, a second at Monterey,
+and a third on a site to be selected, about midway between the two,
+which was to be called San Buenaventura. The two divisions of the
+land-force were under the leadership of Captain Fernando Rivera y
+Moncada and Governor Portola respectively. The ships were to carry all
+the heavier portions of the camp equipage, provisions, household goods,
+vestments and sacred vessels; the land-parties were to take with them
+herds and flocks from Loreto. The understanding was that whichever party
+first reached San Diego was to wait there twenty days for the rest, and
+in the event of their failure to arrive within that time, to push on to
+Monterey.
+
+The sea-detachment of the general expedition--the "Seraphic and
+Apostolic Squadron," as Palou calls it, was composed of three ships--the
+San Carlos, the San Antonio, and the San Joseph. A list, fortunately
+preserved, gives all the persons on board the San Carlos, a vessel of
+about 200 tons only, and the flagship of Don Vicente Vila, the commander
+of the marine division. They were as follows:--the commander himself;
+a lieutenant in charge of a company of soldiers; a missionary; the
+captain, pilot and surgeon; twenty-five soldiers; the officers and crew
+of the ship, twenty-five in all; the baker, the cook and two assistants;
+and two blacksmiths: total, sixty-two souls. An inventory shows that the
+vessel was provisioned for eight months.
+
+The San Carlos left La Paz on the 9th of January; the San Antonio on the
+15th of February; the San Joseph on the 16th of June. All the vessels
+met with heavy storms, and the San Carlos, being driven sadly out of her
+route, did not reach San Diego till twenty days after the San Antonio,
+though dispatched some five weeks earlier. We shudder to read that of
+her crew but one sailor and the cook were left alive; the rest, along
+with many of the soldiers, having succumbed to the scurvy. The San
+Antonio also lost eight of her crew from the same dreadful disease.
+These little details serve better than any general description to give
+us an idea of the horrible conditions of Spanish seamanship in the
+middle of the eighteenth century. As for the San Joseph, she never
+reached her destination at all, though where and how she met her fate
+remains one of the dark mysteries of the ocean. Two small points in
+connection with her loss are perhaps sufficiently curious to merit
+notice. In the first place, she was the only one of the ships that had
+no missionary on board; and secondly, she was called after the very
+saint who had been named special patron of the entire undertaking.
+
+The original plan, as we have seen, had been that Father Junipero should
+accompany the governor in the second division of the land-expedition;
+but this, when the day fixed for departure came, was found to be quite
+impossible owing to the ulcerous sore on his leg, which had been much
+aggravated by the exertions of his recent hurried journey from Loreto to
+La Paz and back. Greatly chafing under the delay, he was none the less
+obliged to postpone his start for several weeks. At length, on the 28th
+of March, in company with two soldiers and a servant, he mounted his
+mule and set out. The event showed that he had been guilty of undue
+haste, for he suffered terribly on the rough way, and on reaching
+San Xavier, whither he went to turn over the management of the Lower
+California missions to Palou, who was then settled there, his condition
+was such that his friend implored him to remain behind, and allow him
+(Palou) to go forward in his stead. But of this Junipero would not hear,
+for he regarded himself as specially chosen and called by God for the
+work to which he stood, body and soul, committed. "Let us speak no more
+of this," he said. "I have placed all my faith in God, through whose
+goodness I hope to reach not only San Diego, to plant and fix there the
+standard of the Holy Cross, but even as far as Monterey." And Palou,
+seeing that Junipero was not to be turned aside, wisely began to talk of
+other things.
+
+After three days devoted to business connected with the missions of
+the lower province, the indomitable father determined to continue his
+journey, notwithstanding the fact that, still totally unable to move his
+leg, he had to be lifted by two men into the saddle. We may imagine that
+poor Palou found it hard enough to answer his friend's cheery farewells,
+and watched him with sickness of heart as he rode slowly away. It seemed
+little likely indeed that they would ever meet again on this side of the
+grave. But Junipero's courage never gave out. Partly for rest and partly
+for conference with those in charge, he lingered awhile at the missions
+along the way; but, nevertheless, presently came up with Portola and his
+detachment, with whom he proceeded to Villacata. Here during a temporary
+halt, he founded a mission which was dedicated to San Fernando, King of
+Castile and Leon. But the worst experiences of the journey were still
+in store. For when the party was ready to move forward again towards San
+Diego, which, as time was fast running on, the commander was anxious to
+reach with the least possible delay, it was found that Junipero's leg
+was in such an inflamed condition that he could neither stand, nor sit,
+nor sleep. For a few leagues he persevered, without complaint to any
+one, and then collapsed. Portola urged him to return at once to San
+Fernando for the complete repose in which alone there seemed any chance
+of recovery, but after his manner Junipero refused; nor, out of kindly
+feeling for the tired native servants, would he ever hear of the litter
+which the commander thereupon proposed to have constructed for his
+transportation. The situation was apparently beyond relief, when, after
+prayer to God, the padre called to him one of the muleteers. "Son," he
+said--the conversation is reported in full by Palou, from whose memoir
+of his friend it is here translated--"do you not know how to make a
+remedy for the ulcer on my foot and leg?" And the muleteer replied:
+"Father, how should I know of any remedy? Am I a surgeon? I am a
+muledriver, and can only cure harness-wounds on animals." "Then, son."
+rejoined Junipero, "consider that I am an animal, and that this ulcer is
+a harness-wound... and prepare for me the same medicament as you would
+make for a beast." Those who heard this request smiled. And the muleteer
+obeyed; and mixing certain herbs with hot tallow, applied the compound
+to the ulcerated leg, with the astonishing result that the sufferer
+slept that night in absolute comfort, and was perfectly able the next
+morning to undertake afresh the fatigues of the road.
+
+Of the further incidents of the tedious journey it is needless to write.
+It is enough to say that for forty-six days--from the 15th of May to
+the 1st of July--the little party plodded on, following the track of
+the advance-division of the land-expedition under Rivera y Moncada. With
+what joy and gratitude they at last looked down upon the harbour of
+San Diego, and realized that the first object of their efforts had now
+indeed been achieved, may be readily imagined. Out in the bay lay the
+San Carlos and the San Antonio, and on the shore were the tents of the
+men who had preceded them, and of whose safety they were now assured;
+and when, with volley after volley, they announced their arrival,
+ships and camp replied in glad salute. And this responsive firing was
+continued, says Palou, in his lively description of the scene, "until,
+all having alighted, they were ready to testify their mutual love by
+close embraces and affectionate rejoicing to see the expeditions thus
+joined, and at their desired destination." Yet one cannot but surmise
+that the delights of reunion were presently chilled when those who had
+thus been spared to come together fell into talk over the companions who
+had perished by the way. History has little to tell us of such details;
+but the sympathetic reader will hardly fail to provide them for himself.
+
+The condition of things which the governor and the president
+found confronting them on their arrival was indeed the reverse of
+satisfactory. Of the one hundred and thirty or so men comprising the
+combined companies, many were seriously ill; some it was necessary to
+dispatch at once with the San Antonio back to San Blas for additional
+supplies and reinforcements; a further number had to be detailed for
+the expedition to Monterey, which, in accordance with the explicit
+instructions of the visitador general it was decided to send out
+immediately. All this left the San Diego camp extremely short-handed,
+but there was no help for it. To reach Monterey at all costs was
+Portola's next duty; and on the 14th of July, with a small party which
+included Fathers Crespi and Gomez, he commenced his northwest march.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+
+In the meanwhile, says Palou, "that fervent zeal which continually
+glowed and burned in the heart of our venerable Father Junipero, did not
+permit him to forget the principal object of his journey." As soon
+as Portola had left the encampment, he began to busy himself with the
+problem of the mission which, it had been determined, should be
+founded on that spot. Ground was carefully chosen with an eye to the
+requirements, not only of the mission itself, but also of the pueblo, or
+village, which in course of time would almost certainly grow up about it
+[2]; and on the 16th of July--the day upon which, as the anniversary
+of a great victory over the Moors in 1212, the Spanish church solemnly
+celebrated the Triumph of the Holy Cross--the first mission of Upper
+California was dedicated to San Diego de Alcala, after whom the bay had
+been named by Sebastian Viscaino, the explorer, many years before. The
+ceremonies were a repetition of those which had been employed in the
+founding of the Mission of San Fernando at Villicata; the site was
+blessed and sprinkled with holy water; a great cross reared, facing the
+harbour; the mass celebrated; the Venite Creator Spiritus sung. And,
+as before, where the proper accessories failed, Father Junipero and his
+colleagues fell back undeterred upon the means which Heaven had actually
+put at their disposal. The constant firing of the troops supplied the
+lack of musical instruments, and the smoke of the powder was accepted as
+a substitute for incense. Father Palou's brief and unadorned description
+will not prove altogether wanting in impressiveness for those who in
+imagination can conjure up a picture of the curious, yet dramatic scene.
+
+The preliminary work of foundation thus accomplished, Father Junipero
+gathered about him the few healthy men who could be spared from the
+tending of their sick comrades and routine duties, and with their help
+erected a few rude huts, one of which was immediately consecrated as a
+temporary chapel. So far as his own people were concerned, the padre's
+labours were for the most part of a grievous character, for, during the
+first few months, the records tell us, disease made such fearful ravages
+among the soldiers, sailors and servants, that ere long the number of
+persons at this settlement had been reduced to twenty. But the tragedy
+of these poor nameless fellows--(it was Junipero's pious hope that they
+might all be named in Heaven)--after all hardly forms part of our proper
+story. The father's real work was to lie among the native Indians, and
+it is with his failures and successes in this direction that the main
+interest of our California mission annals is connected.
+
+They were not an attractive people, these "gentiles" of a country which
+to the newcomers must itself have seemed an outer garden of Paradise;
+and Junipero's first attempts to gain their good will met with
+very slight encouragement. During the ceremonies attendant upon the
+foundation and dedication of the mission, they had stood round in silent
+wonder, and now they showed themselves responsive to the strangers'
+advances to the extent of receiving whatever presents were offered,
+provided the gift was not in the form of anything to eat. The Spaniards'
+food they would not even touch, apparently regarding it as the cause
+of the dire sickness of the troops. And this, in the long run, remarks
+Palou, was without doubt "singularly providential," owing to the rapid
+depletion of the stores. Ignorance of the Indians' language, of course,
+added seriously to the father's difficulties in approaching them,
+and presently their thefts of cloth, for the possession of which they
+developed a perfect passion, and other depredations, rendered them
+exceedingly troublesome. Acts of violence became more and more common,
+and by-and-bye, a determined and organized attack upon the mission, in
+which the assailants many times outnumbered their opponents, led to a
+pitched battle, and the death of one of the Spanish servants. This was
+the crisis; for, happily, like a thunderstorm, the disturbance, which
+seemed so threatening of future ill, cleared the air, at any rate for
+a time; and the kindness with which the Spaniards treated their wounded
+foes evidently touched the savage heart. Little by little a few Indians
+here and there began to frequent the mission; and with the hearty
+welcome accorded them their numbers soon increased. Among them there
+happened to be a boy, of some fifteen years of age, who showed himself
+more tractable than his fellows, and whom Father Junipero determined
+to use as an instrument for his purpose. When the lad had picked up a
+smattering of Spanish, the padre sent him to his people with the promise
+that if he were allowed to bring back one of the children, the youngster
+should not only by baptism be made a Christian, but should also (and
+here the good father descended to a bribe) be tricked out like
+the Spaniards themselves, in handsome clothes. A few days later, a
+"gentile," followed by a large crowd, appeared with a child in his arms,
+and the padre, filled with unutterable joy, at once threw a piece of
+cloth over it, and called upon one of the soldiers to stand godfather
+to this first infant of Christ. But, alas! just as he was preparing to
+sprinkle the holy water, the natives snatched the child from him, and
+made off with it (and the cloth) to their own rancheria. The soldiers
+who stood round as witnesses were furious at this insult, and, left to
+themselves, would have inflicted summary punishment upon the offenders.
+But the good father pacified them, attributing his failure--of which he
+was wont to speak tearfully to the end of his life--to his own sins
+and unworthiness. However, this first experience in convert-making
+was fortunately not prophetic, for though it is true that many months
+elapsed before a single neophyte was gained for the mission, and though
+more serious troubles were still to come, in the course of the next
+few years a number of the aborigines, both children and adults, were
+baptized.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+
+While Junipero and his companions were thus engaged in planting the
+faith among the Indians of San Diego, Portola's expedition was meeting
+with unexpected trials and disappointments. The harbour of Monterey
+had been discovered and described by Viscaino at the beginning of the
+seventeenth century, and it seemed no very difficult matter to reach
+it by way of the coast. But either the charts misled them, or their own
+calculations erred, or the appearance of the landscape was strangely
+deceptive--at any rate, for whatever reason or combination of reasons,
+the exploring party passed the harbour without recognizing it, though
+actually lingering awhile on the sand hills overlooking the bay. Half
+persuaded in their bewilderment that some great catastrophe must, since
+Viscaino's observations, have obliterated the port altogether, they
+pressed northward another forty leagues, and little dreaming of the
+importance attaching to their wanderings, crossed the Coast range, and
+looked down thence over the Santa Clara valley and the "immense arm"
+of San Francisco Bay. By this time the rainy season had set in, and
+convinced as they now were that they must, through some oversight or
+ill-chance, have missed the object of their quest, they determined to
+retrace their steps, and institute another and more thorough search.
+On again reaching the neighborhood of Monterey, they spent a whole
+fortnight in systematic exploration, but still, strangely enough,
+without discovering "any indication or landmark" of the harbour.
+Baffled and disheartened, therefore, the leaders resolved to abandon the
+enterprise. They then erected two large wooden crosses as memorials of
+their visit, and cutting on one of these the words--"Dig at the foot
+of this and you will find a writing"--buried there a brief narrative of
+their experiences. This is reproduced in the diary of Father Crespe
+[3]; and its closing words have a touch of simple pathos: "At last,
+undeceived, and despairing of finding it [the harbour] after so many
+efforts, sufferings and labours, and having left of all our provisions
+but fourteen small sacks of flour, our expedition leaves this place
+to-day for San Diego; I beg of Almighty God to guide it, and for thee,
+voyager, that His divine providence may lead thee to the harbour of
+salvation. Done in this Bay of Pinos, the 9th of December, 1769." On
+the cross on the other side of Point Pinos was cut with a razor
+this legend:--"The land expedition returned to San Diego for want of
+provisions, this 9th day of December, 1769."
+
+The little party--or more correctly speaking--what was left of it, did
+not reach San Diego till the 25th of the following month, having in
+their march down suffered terribly from hunger, exposure, wet, fatigue
+and sickness. Depressed themselves, they found nothing to encourage them
+in the mission and camp, where death had played havoc among those they
+had left behind them six months before, and where the provisions were so
+fast running low that only the timely reappearance of the San Antonio,
+long overdue, would save the survivors from actual starvation. Perhaps
+it is hardly surprising that, under these circumstances, Portola's
+courage should have failed him, and that he should have decided upon a
+return to Mexico. He caused an inventory of all available provisions to
+be taken, and calculating that, with strict economy, and setting aside
+what would be required for the journey back to San Fernando, they might
+last till somewhat beyond the middle of March, he gave out that unless
+the San Antonio should arrive by the 20th of that month, he should
+on that day abandon San Diego, and start south. But if the governor
+imagined for a moment that he could persuade the padre presidente to
+fall in with this arrangement, he did not know his man. Junipero firmly
+believed, despite the failure of Portola's expedition, that the harbour
+of Monterey still existed, and might be found; he even interested
+Vicente Vila in a plan of his own for reaching it by sea; and he
+furthermore made up his mind that, come what might, nothing should
+ever induce him to turn his back upon his work. Then a wonderful thing
+happened. On the 19th of March--the very day before that fixed by the
+governor for his departure, and when everything was in readiness for
+to-morrow's march--the sail of a ship appeared far out at sea; and
+though the vessel presently disappeared towards the northwest, it
+returned four days later and proved to be none other than the San
+Antonio, bearing the much needed succour. She had passed up towards
+Monterey in the expectation of finding the larger body of settlers
+there, and had only put back to San Diego when unexpectedly, (and as it
+seemed, providentially), she had run short of water. It was inevitable
+that Father Junipero should see in this series of happenings the very
+hand of God--the more so as the day of relief chanced to be the festival
+of St. Joseph, who, as we have noted, was the patron of the mission
+enterprise.
+
+The arrival of the San Antonio put an entirely new complexion upon
+affairs; and, relieved of immediate anxiety, Portola now resolved upon a
+second expedition in quest of Monterey. Two divisions, one for sea, the
+other for land, were accordingly made ready; the former, which included
+Junipero, started in the San Antonio, on the 16th of April; the latter,
+under the leadership of Portola, a day later. Strong adverse winds
+interfered with the vessel, which did not make Monterey for a month and
+a half. The land-party, following the coast, reached the more southern
+of the great wooden crosses on the 24th of May, and after some
+difficulty succeeded at last in identifying the harbour. Seven days
+later, steering by the fires lighted for her guidance along the shore,
+the San Antonio came safely into port; and formal possession of the bay
+and surrounding country was presently taken in the name of church and
+King. This was on the 3rd of June, the Feast of Pentecost; and on that
+day of peculiar significance in the apostolic history of the church, the
+second of the Upper California missions came into being. Palou has left
+us a full account of the ceremonies. Governor, soldiers and priests
+gathered together on the beach, on the spot where, in 1603, the
+Carmelite fathers who had accompanied Viscaino, had celebrated the mass.
+An altar was improvised and bells rung; and then, in alb and stole, the
+father-president invoked the aid of the Holy Ghost, solemnly chanted the
+Venite Creator Spiritus; blessed and raised a great cross; "to put to
+flight all the infernal enemies;" and sprinkled with holy water the
+beach and adjoining fields. Mass was then sung; Father Junipero preached
+a sermon; again the roar of cannon and muskets took the place of
+instrumental music; and the function was concluded with the Te Deum.
+Though now commonly called Carmelo, or Carmel, from the river across
+which it looks, and which has thus lent it a memory of the first
+Christian explorers on the spot, this mission is properly known by the
+name of San Carlos Borromeo, Cardinal-Archbishop of Milan. A few huts
+enclosed by a palisade, and forming the germ at once of the religious
+and of the military settlement, were hastily erected. But the actual
+building of the mission was not begun until the summer of 1771
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+
+News of the establishment of the missions and military posts at San
+Diego and Monterey was in due course carried to the City of Mexico,
+where it so delighted the Marques de Croix, Viceroy of New Spain, and
+Jose de Galvez, that they not only set the church bells ringing, but
+forthwith began to make arrangements for the founding of more missions
+in the upper province. Additional priests were provided by the College
+of San Fernando; funds liberally subscribed; and the San Antonio made
+ready to sail from San Blas with the friars and supplies. On the 21st
+of May, 1771, the good ship dropped anchor at Monterey, where, in
+the meantime, Junipero, though busy enough among the natives of the
+neighborhood, was suffering grievous disappointment because, from lack
+of priests and soldiers, he was unable to proceed at once with the
+proposed establishment of San Buenaventura. The safe arrival of ten
+assistants now brought him assurance of a rapid extension of work in
+"the vineyard of the Lord." He was not the man to let time slip by him
+unimproved. Plans were immediately laid for carrying the cross still
+further into the wilderness, and six new missions--those of San
+Buenaventura, San Gabriel, San Louis Obispo, San Antonio, Santa Clara
+and San Francisco--were presently agreed upon. It was discovered later
+on, however, that these plans outran the resources at the president's
+disposal, and much to his regret, the design for settlements at Santa
+Clara and San Francisco had to be temporarily given up.
+
+There was, none the less, plenty to engage the energies of even so
+tireless a worker as Junipero, for three of the new missions were
+successfully established between July, 1771, and the autumn of the
+following year. The first of these was the Mission of San Antonio
+de Padua, in a beautiful spot among the Santa Lucia mountains, some
+twenty-five leagues southeast of Monterey; the second, that of San
+Gabriel Arcangel, near what is now known as the San Gabriel river;
+and the third, the Mission of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, for which a
+location was chosen near the coast, about twenty-five leagues southeast
+of San Antonio. In his account of the founding of the first named of
+these, Palou throws in a characteristic touch. After the bells had been
+hung on trees and loudly tolled, he says, the excited padre-presidente
+began to shout like one transported:--"Ho, gentiles! Come to the Holy
+Church; Come! Come! and receive the faith of Jesus Christ!" His comrade,
+Father Pieras, standing by astonished, interrupted his fervent eloquence
+with the eminently practical remark that as there were no gentiles
+within hearing, it was idle to ring the bells. But the enthusiast's
+ardour was not to be damped by such considerations, and he continued to
+ring and shout. I, for one, am grateful for such a detail as this.
+An even more significant story, though of a quite different sort, is
+recorded of the dedication of San Gabriel. It was, of course, inevitable
+that here and there in connection with such a record as this of Serra
+and his work, there should spring up legends of miraculous doings and
+occurrences; though on the whole, it is, perhaps, remarkable that the
+mythopoeic tendency was not more powerful. The incident now referred to
+may be taken as an illustration. While the missionary party were engaged
+in exploring for a suitable site, a large force of natives, under two
+chiefs, suddenly broke in upon them. Serious conflict seemed imminent;
+when one of the fathers drew forth a piece of canvas bearing the picture
+of the Virgin. Instantly the savages threw their weapons to the
+ground, and, following their leaders, crowded with offerings about the
+marvellous image. Thus the danger was averted. Further troubles attended
+the settlement at San Gabriel; but in after years it became one of the
+most successful of all the missions, and gained particular fame from the
+industries maintained by its converts, and their skill in carving wood,
+horn and leather.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+
+Though, as we thus see, Father Junipero had ample reason to be
+encouraged over the progress of his enterprise, he still had various
+difficulties to contend with. The question of supplies often assumed
+formidable proportions, and the labors of the missionaries were not
+always as fruitful as had been hoped. Fortunately, however, the Indians
+were, as a rule, friendly, notwithstanding the fact that the behaviour
+of the Spanish soldiers, especially towards their women, occasionally
+aroused their distrust and resentment. At one establishment only did
+serious disturbances actually threaten for a time the continuance of
+the mission and its work. Junipero had lately returned from Mexico, with
+undiminished zeal and all sorts of fresh designs revolving in his brain,
+when a courier reached him at San Carlos bringing news of a terrible
+disaster at San Diego. Important affairs detained him for a time at
+Monterey, but when at length he was able to get to the scene of the
+trouble, it was to find that first reports had not been exaggerated. On
+the night of the 4th of November, 1775, eight hundred Indians had made
+a ferocious assault upon the mission, fired the buildings, and brutally
+done to death Father Jayme, one of the two priests in charge. "God
+be thanked," Junipero had exclaimed, when the letter containing the
+dreadful news had been read to him, "now the soil is watered, and the
+conquest of the Dieguinos will soon be complete!" In the faith that
+the blood of the martyrs is veritably the seed of the church, he, on
+reaching San Diego, with his customary energy, set about the task of
+re-establishing the mission; and the buildings which presently arose
+from the ruins were a great improvement upon those which had been
+destroyed.
+
+Before these alarming events at the mother-mission broke in upon his
+regular work, the president had resolved upon yet another settlement
+(not included in the still uncompleted plan), for which he had selected
+a point on the coast some twenty-six leagues north of San Diego, and
+which was to be dedicated to San Juan Capistrano. A beginning had indeed
+been made there, not by Junipero in person, but by fathers delegated by
+him for the purpose; but when news of the murder of Father Jayme reached
+them, they had hastily buried bells, chasubles and supplies, and hurried
+south. As soon as ever he felt it wise to leave San Diego Junipero
+himself now repaired to the abandoned site; and there, on the 1st of
+November, 1776, the bells were dug up and hung, mass said, and
+the mission established. It is curious to remember that while the
+padre-presidente was thus immersed in apostolic labors on the far
+Pacific coast, on the other side of the North American continent events
+of a very different character were shaking the whole civilized world.
+
+Though the establishment of San Juan Capistrano is naturally mentioned
+in this place, partly because of the abortive start made there a year
+before, and partly because its actual foundation constituted the next
+noteworthy incident in Junipero's career, this mission is, in strict
+chronological order, not the sixth, but the seventh on our list. For
+some three weeks before its dedication, and without the knowledge of the
+president himself, though in full accordance with his designs, the cross
+had been planted at a point many leagues northward beyond San Carlos,
+and destined presently to be the most important on the coast. It will be
+remembered that when Portola's party made their first futile search for
+the harbour of Monterey, they had by accident found their way as far as
+the Bay of San Francisco. The significance of their discovery was
+not appreciated at the time, either by themselves or by those at
+headquarters to whom it was reported; but later explorations so clearly
+established the value of the spot for settlement and fortification,
+that it was determined to build a presidio there. Some years previous
+to this, as we have seen, a mission on the northern bay had been part
+of Junipero's ambitious scheme; and though at the time he was forced by
+circumstances to hold his hand, the idea was constantly uppermost in
+his thoughts. At length, when, in the summer of 1776, an expedition was
+despatched from Monterey for the founding of the proposed presidio, two
+missionaries were included in the party--one of these being none other
+than that Father Palou, whose records have been our chief guides in
+the course of this story. The buildings of the presidio--store
+house, commandant's dwelling, and huts for the soldiers and their
+families--were completed by the middle of September; and on the 17th
+of that month--the day of St. Francis, patron of the station and
+harbour--imposing ceremonies of foundation were performed. A wooden
+church was then built; and on the 9th of October, in the presence of
+many witnesses, Father Palou said mass, the image of St. Francis was
+borne about in procession, and the mission solemnly dedicated to his
+name [4].
+
+It was at San Luis Obispo on his way back from San Diego to Monterey,
+that Father Junipero learned of the foundation of the mission at San
+Francisco, and though he may doubtless have felt some little regret
+at not having himself been present on such an occasion, his heart
+overflowed with joy. For there was a special reason why the long delay
+in carrying out this portion of his plan had weighed heavily upon him.
+Years before, when the visitador general had told him that the first
+three missions in Alta California were to be named after San Diego,
+San Carlos and San Buenaventura (for such, we recollect, had been
+the original programme), he had exclaimed:--"Then is our father, St.
+Francis, to have no mission?" And Galvez had made reply:--"If St.
+Francis desires a mission, let him show us his port, and he shall have
+one there." To Junipero it had seemed that Portola had providentially
+been led beyond Monterey to the Bay of San Francisco, and the founder
+of his order had thus given emphatic answer to the visitador's words.
+It may well be imagined that he was ill at rest until the saint's wishes
+had been carried into effect.
+
+But this was not the only good work done in the north while Junipero was
+busy elsewhere; for on the 12th of January, 1777, the Mission of Santa
+Clara was established in the wonderfully fertile and beautiful valley
+which is now known by that name. The customary rites were performed
+by Father Tomas de la Pena, a rude chapel erected, and the work of
+constructing the necessary buildings of the settlement immediately begun
+[5]. It should be noted in passing that before the end of the year the
+town of San Jose--or, to give it its full Spanish title, El Pueblo de
+San Jose de Guadalupe--was founded near by. This has historic interest
+as the first purely civil settlement in California. The fine Alameda
+from the mission to the pueblo was afterwards made and laid out under
+the fathers' supervision.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+
+Though Junipero's subordinates had thus done without him in these
+important developments at San Francisco and Santa Clara, he still
+resolved to go north, both to visit the new foundations and to inspect
+for himself the marvellous country of which he had heard much, but which
+he had not yet seen. As usual, he was long detained by urgent affairs,
+and it was not till autumn that he succeeded in breaking away. He made a
+short stay at Santa Clara, and then pushed on to San Francisco, which he
+reached in time to say mass on St. Francis' day. After a ten days' rest,
+he crossed to the presidio and feasted his eyes on the glorious vision
+of the Golden Gate--a sight which once seen is never to be forgotten.
+"Thanks be to God!" he cried, in rapture (these, says Palou, were the
+words most frequently on his lips); "now our Father St. Francis, with
+the Holy Cross of the procession of missions, has reached the ultimate
+end of this continent of California. To go further ships will be
+required!" Yet his joy was tempered with the thought that the eight
+missions already founded were very far apart, and that much labour would
+be necessary to fill up the gaps.
+
+It was thus with the feeling that, while something had been done, far
+more was left to do, that the padre returned to his own special charge
+at San Carlos. Various circumstances in combination had caused the
+postponement, year after year, of that third mission, which, according
+to original intentions, was to have followed immediately upon the
+establishments at San Diego and Monterey. Three new settlements were now
+projected on the Santa Barbara Channel, and the first of these was to
+be the mission of San Buenaventura. It was not until 1782, however, that
+the long-delayed purpose was at length accomplished. The site chosen
+was at the southeastern extremity of the channel, and close to an Indian
+village, or rancheria to which Portala's expedition in 1769 had given
+the name of Ascencion de Nuestra Senora, or, briefly, Assumpta. A little
+later on, in pursuance of the same plan, the then governor, Filipe de
+Neve, took formal possession of a spot some ten leagues distant, and
+there began the construction of the presidio of Santa Barbara. It was
+Junipero's earnest desire to proceed at once with the adjoining mission.
+But the governor, for reasons of his own, threw obstacles in the way,
+and in the end this fresh undertaking was left to other hands.
+
+For we have now come to the close of Father Junipero's long and
+strenuous career; and as we look back over the record of it, our wonder
+is, not that he should have died when he did, but rather that he had not
+killed himself many years before. His is surely one of those cases in
+which supreme spiritual power and sheer force of will triumph over an
+accumulation of bodily ills. Far from robust of constitution, he
+had never given himself consideration or repose, forcing himself to
+exertions which it would have appeared utterly impossible that his frame
+could bear, and adding to the constant strain of his labours and travels
+the hardships of self-inflicted tortures of a severe ascetic regime. He
+had always been much troubled by the old ulcer on his leg, though
+this, no matter how painful, he never regarded save when it actually
+incapacitated him for work; and for many years he had suffered from a
+serious affection of the heart, which had been greatly aggravated, even
+if it was not in the first instance caused, by his habit of beating
+himself violently on his chest with a huge stone, at the conclusion of
+his sermons--to the natural horror of his hearers, who, it is said,
+were often alarmed lest he should drop dead before their eyes. The fatal
+issue of such practices could only be a question of time. At length,
+mental anxiety and sorrow added their weight to his burden--particularly
+disappointment at the slow progress of his enterprise, and grief over
+the death of his fellow-countryman and close friend, Father Crespi, who
+passed to his well-earned rest on New Year's Day, 1782. After this
+loss, it is recorded, he was never the same man again, though he held so
+tenaciously to his duties, that only a year before the call came to him,
+being then over seventy, he limped from San Diego to Monterey, visiting
+his missions, and weeping over the outlying Indian rancherias, because
+he was powerless to help the unconverted dwellers in them. He died at
+San Carlos, tenderly nursed to the end by the faithful Palou, on the
+28th August, 1784; and his passing was so peaceful that those watching
+thought him asleep. On hearing the mission bells toll for his death, the
+whole population, knowing well what had occurred, burst into tears; and
+when, clothed in the simple habit of his order, his body was laid out
+in his cell, the native neophytes crowded in with flowers, while the
+Spanish soldiers and sailors pressed round in the hope of being blessed
+by momentary contact with his corpse. He was laid beneath the mission
+altar beside his beloved friend Crespi; but when, in after years, a new
+church was built, the remains of both were removed and placed within it.
+
+It is not altogether easy to measure such a man as Junipero Serra by our
+ordinary modern standards of character and conduct. He was essentially
+a religious enthusiast, and as a religious enthusiast he must be judged.
+To us who read his story from a distance, who breathe an atmosphere
+totally different from his, and whose lives are governed by quite
+other passions and ideals, he may often appear one-sided, extravagant,
+deficient in tact and forethought, and, in the excess of his zeal, too
+ready to sacrifice everything to the purposes he never for an instant
+allowed to drop out of his sight. We may even, with some of his critics,
+protest that he was not a man of powerful intellect; that his views of
+people and things were distressingly narrow; that, after his kind, he
+was extremely superstitious; that he was despotic in his dealings
+with his converts, and stiffnecked in his relations with the civil and
+military authorities. For all this is doubtless true. But all this
+must not prevent us from seeing him as he actually was--charitable,
+large-hearted, energetic, indomitable; in all respects a remarkable, in
+many ways, a really wise and great man. At whatever points he may fall
+short of our criteria, this much must be said of him, that he was fired
+throughout with the high spirit of his vocation, that he was punctual in
+the performance of duty as he understood it, that he was obedient to
+the most rigorous dictates of that Gospel which he had set himself to
+preach. In absolute, single-hearted, unflinching, and tireless devotion
+to the task of his life--the salvation of heathen souls--he spent
+himself freely and cheerfully, a true follower of that noblest and most
+engaging of the mediaeval saints, whose law he had laid upon himself,
+and whom he looked up to as his guide and examplar. Let us place him
+where he belongs--among the transcendent apostolic figures of his own
+church; for thus alone shall we do justice to his personality, his
+objects, his career. The memory of such a man will survive all changes
+in creeds and ideals; and the great state, of which he was the first
+pioneer, will do honour to herself in honouring him.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+
+After Junipero's death the supervision of the missions devolved for a
+time upon Palou, under whose management, owing to difficulties with the
+civil powers, no new foundations were undertaken, though satisfactory
+progress was made in those already existing. In 1786, Palou was
+appointed head of the College of San Fernando, and his place as mission
+president was filled by Father Firmin Francisco de Lasuen, by whom the
+mission of Santa Barbara was dedicated, on the festival day of that
+virgin-martyr, before the close of the year [6]. Just twelve months
+later, the third channel settlement was started, with the performance
+of the usual rites, on the spot fixed for the Mission of La Purisima
+Concepcion, at the western extremity of the bay; though some months
+passed before real work there was begun. Thus the proposed scheme,
+elaborated before Junipero's death, for the occupation of that portion
+of the coast, was at length successfully carried out.
+
+Hardly had this been accomplished before the viceroy and governor,
+having resolved upon a further extension of the mission system, sent
+orders to Father Lasuen to proceed with two fresh settlements, one of
+which was to be dedicated to the Holy Cross, the other to Our Lady
+of Solitude. Time was, as usual, consumed in making the necessary
+preparations, and the two missions were finally founded within a few
+weeks of each other--on the 28th of August and the 9th of October, 1791,
+respectively. The site selected for the Mission of Santa Cruz was in the
+neighborhood already known by that name, and near the San Lorenzo River;
+that of Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, on the west side of the Salinas
+River, in the vicinity of the present town of Soledad, and about thirty
+miles from Monterey.
+
+A glance at the map of California will help us to understand the policy
+which had dictated the creation of the four missions founded since
+Junipero's death. The enormous stretch of country between San Francisco
+and San Diego, the northern and southern extremes of evangelical
+enterprise, was as yet quite insufficiently occupied, and these new
+settlements had been started with the object of to some extent filling
+up the vast vacant spaces still left among those already existing. For
+the efficient performance of missionary work something more was needed
+than a number of separate establishments, no matter how well managed
+and successful these in themselves might be. Systematic organization was
+essential; for this it was requisite that the various missions should
+be brought, by proximity, into vital relations with one another, that
+communication might be kept up, companionship enjoyed, and, in case of
+need, advice given and assistance rendered. The foundations of Santa
+Barbara, La Purisima, Santa Cruz and Soledad, had done something, as
+will be seen, towards the ultimate drawing together of the scattered
+outposts of church and civilization. But with them a beginning had only
+been made. Further developments of the same general plan which aimed, it
+will be understood, not alone at the spiritual conquest, but also at the
+proper control of the new kingdom--were now taken under consideration.
+And, as a result, five fresh missions were presently resolved upon. One
+of these was to be situated between San Francisco and Santa Clara; the
+second, between Santa Clara and Monterey; the third, between San Antonio
+and San Luis Obispo; the fourth, between San Buenaventura and San
+Gabriel; and the fifth, between San Juan Capistrano and San Diego. The
+importance of these proposed settlements as connecting links will be at
+once apparent, if we observe that by reason of their carefully chosen
+locations they served, as it were, to put the older missions into actual
+touch. When at length the preliminary arrangements had been made, no
+time was wasted in the carrying out of the programme, and in a little
+over a year, all five missions were in operation. The mission San
+Jose (a rather tardy recognition to the patron-saint of the whole
+undertaking), was founded on the 11th June, 1797; San Juan Bautista
+thirteen days later; San Miguel Arcangel on the 25th July, and San
+Fernando Rey de Espana on the 8th September of the same year; and San
+Luis Rey de Francia (commonly called San Luis Rey to distinguish it from
+San Luis Obispo), on the 13th of the July following. The delay which
+had not at all been anticipated in the establishment of this last-named
+mission, was due to some difficulties in regard to site. With this
+ended--so far as fresh foundations were concerned--the pious labours
+of Lasuen as padre-presidente. He now returned to San Carlos to devote
+himself during the remainder of his life to the arduous duties
+of supervision and administration. There he died, in 1803, aged
+eighty-three years.
+
+His successor, Father Estevan Tapis, fourth president of the Upper
+California missions, signalized his elevation to office by adding a
+nineteenth to the establishments under his charge. Founded on the
+17th September, 1804, on a spot, eighteen miles from La Purisima and
+twenty-two from Santa Barbara, to which Lasuen had already directed
+attention, this was dedicated to the virgin-martyr, Santa Inez. It was
+felt that a settlement somewhere in this region was still needed for the
+completion of the mission system, since without it, a gap was left in
+the line between the two missions first-named, which were some forty
+miles apart. With the planting of Santa Inez thorough spiritual
+occupation may be said to have been accomplished over the entire area
+between San Francisco and San Diego, and from the Coast Range to the
+ocean. The nineteen missions had been so distributed over the vast
+country, that the Indians scattered through it could everywhere be
+reached; while the distance from mission to mission had, at the same
+time, been so reduced that it was in no case too great to be easily
+covered in a single day's journey. The fathers of each establishment
+could thus hold frequent intercourse with their next neighbors, and
+occasional travelers moving to and fro on business could from day to day
+be certain of finding a place for refreshment and repose [7].
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+
+Santa Inez carries us for the first time over into the nineteenth
+century, and its establishment may in a sense be regarded as marking the
+term of the period of expansion in California mission history. A pause
+of more than a decade ensued, during which no effort was made towards
+the further spread of the general system; and then, with the planting
+of two relatively unimportant settlements in a district thentofore
+unoccupied the tally was brought to a close.
+
+The missions which thus represented a slight and temporary revival of
+the old spirit of enterprise, were those of San Rafael Arcangel and San
+Francisco Solano. The former, located near Mount Tamalpais, between San
+Francisco de Assis and the Russian military station at Fort Ross, dates
+from the 17th December, 1817; the latter, situated still further north,
+in the Sonoma Valley, from the 4th July, 1823. Some little uncertainty
+exists as to the true reasons and purposes of their foundation. The
+commonly accepted version of the story connects them directly with
+problems which arose out of the course of affairs at San Francisco. In
+1817 a most serious epidemic caused great mortality among the Indians
+there; a panic seemed inevitable; and on the advice of Lieutenant Sola,
+a number of the sick neophytes were removed by the padres to the other
+side of the bay. The change of climate proved highly beneficial;
+the region of Mount Tamalpais was found singularly attractive; and a
+decision to start a branch establishment, or asistencia, of the mission
+at San Francisco was a natural result. The patronage of San Rafael was
+selected in the hope that, as the name itself expresses the "healing of
+God," that "most glorious prince" might be induced to care "for bodies
+as well as souls." While considerable success attended this new venture,
+the condition of things at San Francisco, on the other hand, continued
+anything but satisfactory; and a proposal based on these two facts was
+presently made, that the old mission should be removed entirely from the
+peninsula, and refounded in a more favorable locality somewhere in the
+healthy and fertile country beyond San Rafael. It was thus that the name
+of San Francisco got attached from the outset to the new settlement at
+Sonoma; and when later on (the old mission being left in its place) this
+was made into an independent mission, the name was retained, though the
+dedication was transferred, appropriately enough, from St. Francis of
+Assisi to that other St. Francis who figures in the records as "the
+great apostle of the Indies."
+
+Such is the simpler explanation of the way in which the last two
+missions came to be established. It has, however, been suggested that,
+while all this may be true as far as it goes, other causes were at work
+of a subtler character than those specified, and that these causes were
+involved in the development of political affairs. It will have been
+noted that, though the threatened encroachments of the Russians had been
+one of the chief reasons for this Spanish occupation of Alta California,
+there had hitherto been no attempt to meet their possible advances in
+the very regions where they were most to be expected--that is, in the
+country north of San Francisco. In course of time, however, always with
+the ostensible purpose of hunting the seal and the otter, the Russians
+were found to be creeping further and further south; and at length,
+under instructions from St. Petersburg, they took possession of the
+region of Bodega Bay, establishing there a trading post of their Fur
+Company, and a strong military station which they called Fort Ross. As
+this settlement was on the coast, and only sixty-five miles, as the crow
+flies, from San Francisco, it will be seen that the Spanish authorities
+had some genuine cause for alarm. And the mission movement north of San
+Francisco is considered by some writers to have been initiated, less
+from spiritual motives, than from the dread of continued Russian
+aggression, and the hope of raising at least a slight barrier against
+it. However this may be, the two missions were never employed for
+defensive purposes; nor is it very clear that they could have been made
+of much practical service in case of actual need.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+
+Such, in briefest outline, is the story of the planting of the
+twenty-one missions of Alta California. This story, as we have seen,
+brings us down to the year 1823. But by this time, as we follow the
+chronicles, our attention has already begun to be diverted from the
+forces which still made for growth and success to those which ere long
+were to co-operate for the complete undoing of the mission system and
+the ruin of all its work.
+
+Perhaps it was in the nature of things (if one may venture here to
+employ a phrase too often used out of mere idleness or ignorance) that
+the undertaking which year by year had been carried forward with so much
+energy and success, should after a while come to a standstill; and
+the commonest observation of life will suffice to remind us that when
+progress ceases, retrogression is almost certain to set in. The immense
+zeal and unflagging enthusiasm of Junipero Serra and his immediate
+followers could not be transmitted by any rite or formula to the men
+upon whose shoulders their responsibilities came presently to rest.
+Men they were, of course, of widely varying characters and
+capabilities--some, unfortunately, altogether unworthy both morally
+and mentally, of their high calling; many, on the contrary, genuine
+embodiments of the great principles of their order--humane, benevolent,
+faithful in the discharge of daily duty, patient alike in labour and
+trial, and careful administrators of the practical affairs which lay
+within their charge. But without injustice it may be said of them that
+for the most part they possessed little of the tremendous personal force
+of their predecessors, and a generous endowment of such personal force
+was as needful now as it ever had been.
+
+Not unless we wish to emulate Southey's learned friend, who wrote whole
+volumes of hypothetical history in the subjunctive mood, it is hardly
+necessary for present purposes to discuss the internal changes which,
+had the missions been left to themselves, might in the long run have
+brought about their decay. For as a matter of fact the missions were not
+left to themselves. The closing chapter of their history, to which
+we have now to turn, is mainly concerned, not with their spiritual
+management, or with their success or failure in the work they had been
+given to do, but with the general movement of political events, and the
+upheavals which preceded the final conquest of California by the United
+States.
+
+In considering the attitude of the civil authorities towards the mission
+system, and their dealings with it, we must remember that the Spanish
+government had from the first anticipated the gradual transformation of
+the missions into pueblos and parishes, and with this, the substitution
+of the regular clergy for the Franciscan padres. This was part of the
+general plan of colonization, of which the mission settlements were
+regarded as forming only the beginning. Their work was to bring the
+heathen into the fold of the church, to subdue them to the conditions of
+civilization, to instruct them in the arts of peace, and thus to prepare
+them for citizenship; and this done, it was purposed that they should
+be straightway removed from the charge of the fathers and placed under
+civil jurisdiction. No decisive step towards the accomplishment of this
+design was, however, taken for many years; and meanwhile, the fathers
+jealously resisted every effort of the government to interfere with
+their prerogatives. At length, with little comprehension of the nature
+of the materials out of which citizens were thus to be manufactured, and
+with quite as little realization of the fact that the paternal methods
+of education adopted by the padres were calculated, not to train their
+neophytes to self-government, but to keep them in a state of perpetual
+tutelage, the Spanish Cortes decreed that all missions which had then
+been in existence ten years should at once be turned over to bishops,
+and the Indians attached to them made subject to civil authority. Though
+promulgated in 1813, this decree was not published in California till
+1820, and even then was practically a dead letter. Two years later,
+California became a province of the Mexican Empire, and in due course
+the new government turned its attention to the missions, in 1833
+ordering their complete secularization. The atrocious mishandling by
+both Spain and Mexico of the funds by which they had been kept up, and
+the large demands made later upon them for provisions and money, had
+by this time made serious inroads upon their resources; notwithstanding
+which they had faithfully persisted in their work. The new law now dealt
+them a crushing blow. Ten years of great confusion followed, and then an
+effort was made to save them from the complete ruin by which they were
+threatened by a proclamation ordering that the more important of them,
+twelve in number, should be restored to the padres. Nothing came of
+this, however; the collapse continued; and in 1846, the sale of the
+mission buildings was decreed by the Departmental Assembly. When in
+the August of that year, the American flag was unfurled at Monterey,
+everything connected with the missions--their lands, their priests,
+their neophytes, their management--was in a state of seemingly hopeless
+chaos. Finally General Kearney issued a declaration to the effect that
+"the missions and their property should remain under the charge of the
+Catholic priests... until the titles to the lands should be decided by
+proper authority." But of whatever temporary service this measure may
+have been, it was of course altogether powerless to breathe fresh life
+into a system already in the last stages of decay. The mission-buildings
+were crumbling into ruins. Their lands were neglected; their converts
+for the most part dead or scattered. The rule of the padres was over.
+The Spanish missions in Alta California were things of the past.
+
+In these late days of a civilization so different in all its essential
+elements from that which the Franciscans laboured so strenuously to
+establish on the Pacific Coast, we may think of the fathers as we will,
+and pass what judgment we see fit upon their work. But be that what it
+may, our hearts cannot fail to be touched and stirred by the pitiful
+story of those true servants of God who, in the hour of ultimate
+disaster, firmly refused to be separated from their flocks.
+
+Among the ruins of San Luis Obispo, in 1842, De Mofras found the oldest
+Spanish priest then left in California, who, after sixty years of
+unremitting toil, was then reduced to such abject poverty that he was
+forced to sleep on a hide, drink from a horn, and feed upon strips of
+meat dried in the sun. Yet this faithful creature still continued to
+share the little he possessed with the children of the few Indians who
+lingered in the huts about the deserted church; and when efforts were
+made to induce him to seek some other spot where he might find refuge
+and rest, his answer was that he meant to die at his post. The same
+writer has recorded an even more tragic case from the annals of La
+Soledad. Long after the settlement there had been abandoned, and when
+the buildings were falling to pieces, an old priest, Father Sarria,
+still remained to minister to the bodily and physical wants of a handful
+of wretched natives who yet haunted the neighborhood, and whom he
+absolutely refused to forsake. One Sunday morning in August, 1833,
+after his habit, he gathered his neophytes together in what was once the
+church, and began, according to his custom, the celebration of the mass.
+But age, suffering, and privation had by this time told fatally upon
+him. Hardly had he commenced the service, when his strength gave way. He
+stumbled upon the crumbling altar, and died, literally of starvation, in
+the arms of those to whom for thirty years he had given freely whatever
+he had to give. Surely these simple records of Christ-like devotion will
+live in the tender remembrance of all who revere the faith that, linked
+with whatever creed, manifests itself in good works, the love that
+spends itself in service, the quiet heroism that endures to the end.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+
+The California missions, though greatly varying of course in regard to
+size and economy, were constructed upon the same general plan, in the
+striking and beautiful style of architecture, roughly known as Moorish,
+which the fathers transplanted from Spain, but which rather seems by
+reason of its singular appropriateness, a native growth of the new
+soil. The edifices which now, whether in ruins or in restoration, still
+testify to the skill and energy of their pious designers, were in all
+cases later, in most cases much later, than the settlements themselves.
+At the outset, a few rude buildings of wood or adobe were deemed
+sufficient for the temporary accommodation of priests and converts,
+and the celebration of religious services. Then, little by little,
+substantial structures in brick or stone took the place of these, and
+what we now think of as the mission came into being.
+
+The best account left us of the mission establishment in its palmy
+days is that given by De Mofras in his careful record of travel and
+exploration along the Pacific Coast; and often quoted as this has been,
+we still cannot do better here than to translate some portions of it
+anew. The observant Frenchman wrote with his eye mainly upon what was
+perhaps the most completely typical of all the missions--that of San
+Luis Rey. But his description, though containing a number of merely
+local particulars, was intended to be general; and for this reason may
+the more properly be reproduced in this place.
+
+"The edifice," he wrote, "is quadrilateral, and about one hundred and
+fifty metres long in front. The church occupies one of the wings. The
+facade is ornamented with a gallery [or arcade]. The building, a single
+storey in height, is generally raised some feet above the ground. The
+interior forms a court, adorned with flowers and planted with trees.
+Opening on the gallery which runs round it are the rooms of the monks,
+majordomos, and travelers, as well as the workshops, schoolrooms, and
+storehouses. Hospitals for men and women are situated in the quietest
+parts of the mission, where also are placed the schoolrooms. The young
+Indian girls occupy apartments called the monastery (el moujerio), and
+they themselves are styled nuns (las moujas)... Placed under the care of
+trustworthy Indian women, they are there taught to spin wool, flax, and
+cotton, and do no leave their seclusion till they are old enough to be
+married. The Indian children attend the same school as the children of
+the white colonists. A certain number of them, chosen from those who
+exhibit most intelligence, are taught music--plain-chant, violin,
+flute, horn, violincello, and other instruments. Those who distinguish
+themselves in the carpenter's shop, at the forge, or in the field, are
+termed alcaldes, or chiefs, and given charge of a band of workmen. The
+management of each mission is composed of two monks; the elder looks
+after internal administration and religious instruction; the younger
+has direction of agricultural work... For the sake of order and morals,
+whites are employed only where strictly necessary, for the fathers know
+their influence to be altogether harmful, and that they lead the Indians
+to gambling and drunkenness, to which vices they are already too prone.
+To encourage the natives in their tasks, the fathers themselves often
+lend a hand, and everywhere furnish an example of industry. Necessity
+has made them industrious. One is struck with astonishment on observing
+that, with such meagre resources, often without European workmen or
+any skilled help, but with the assistance only of savages, always
+unintelligent and often hostile, they have yet succeeded in executing
+such works of architecture and engineering as mills, machinery, bridges,
+roads, and canals for irrigation. For the erection of nearly all the
+mission buildings it was necessary to bring to the sites chosen, beams
+cut on mountains eight or ten leagues away, and to teach the Indians to
+burn lime, cut stone, and make bricks.
+
+"Around the mission," De Mofras continues, "are the huts of the
+neophytes, and the dwellings of some white colonists. Besides the
+central establishment, there exists, for a space of thirty or forty
+leagues, accessory farms to the number of fifteen or twenty, and branch
+chapels (chapelles succursales). Opposite the mission is a guard-house
+for an escort, composed of four cavalry soldiers and a sergeant. These
+act as messengers, carrying orders from one mission to another, and in
+the earlier days of conquest repelled the savages who would sometimes
+attack the settlement."
+
+Of the daily life and routine of a mission, accounts of travelers enable
+us to form a pretty vivid picture; and though doubtless changes of
+detail might be marked in passing from place to place, the larger and
+more essential features would be found common to all the establishments.
+
+At sunrise the little community was already astir, and then the Angelus
+summoned all to the church, where mass was said, and a short time given
+to the religious instruction of the neophytes. Breakfast followed,
+composed mainly of the staple dish atole, or pottage of roasted
+barley. This finished, the Indians repaired in squads, each under the
+supervision of its alcalde, to their various tasks in workshop and
+field. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, a wholesome and sufficiently
+generous midday meal was served out. At two, work was resumed. An hour
+or so before sunset, the bell again tolled for the Angelus; evening
+mass was performed; and after supper had been eaten, the day closed with
+dance, or music, or some simple games of chance. Thus week by week,
+and month by month, with monotonous regularity, life ran its unbroken
+course; and what with the labours directly connected with the
+management of the mission itself, the tending of sheep and cattle in the
+neighboring ranches, and the care of the gardens and orchards upon which
+the population was largely dependent for subsistence, there was plenty
+to occupy the attention of the padres, and quite enough work to be done
+by the Indians under their charge. But all this does not exhaust the
+list of mission activities. For in course of time, as existence became
+more settled, and the children of the early converts shot up into
+boys and girls, various industries were added to such first necessary
+occupations, and the natives were taught to work at the forge and the
+bench, to make saddles and shoes, to weave, and cut, and sew. In these
+and similar acts, many of them acquired considerable proficiency.
+
+It is pleasant enough to look back upon such a busy yet placid life.
+But while we may justly acknowledge its antique, pastoral charm, we must
+guard ourselves against the temptation to idealization. Beautiful in
+many respects it must have been; but its shadows were long and deep.
+According to the first principles adopted by the missionaries, the
+domesticated Indians were held down rigorously in a condition of
+servile dependence and subjection. They were indeed, as one of the early
+travelers in California put it, slaves under another name--slaves to
+the cast-iron power of a system which, like all systems, was capable of
+unlimited abuse, and which, at the very best, was narrow and arbitrary.
+Every vestige of freedom was taken from them when they entered, or were
+brought into, the settlement. Henceforth they belonged, body and soul,
+to the mission and its authority. Their tasks were assigned to them,
+their movements controlled, the details of their daily doings dictated,
+by those who were to all intents and purposes their absolute masters;
+and corporal punishment was visited freely not only upon those who were
+guilty of actual misdemeanor, but also upon such as failed in attendance
+at church, or, when there, did not conduct themselves properly. From
+time to time some unusually turbulent spirit would rise against such
+paternal despotism, and break away to his old savage life. But these
+cases, we are told, were of rare occurrence. The California Indians were
+for the most part indolent, apathetic, and of low intelligence; and as,
+under domestication, they were clothed, housed and fed, while the labour
+demanded from them was rarely excessive, they were wont as a rule to
+accept the change from the hardships of their former rough existence to
+the comparative comfort of the mission, if not exactly in a spirit of
+gratitude, at any rate with a certain brutal contentment.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+
+It does not fall within the scope of this little sketch, in which
+nothing more has been aimed at than to tell an interesting story in the
+simplest possible way, to enter into any discussion of a question
+to which what has just been said might naturally seem to lead--the
+question, namely, of the results, immediate and remote, of the mission
+system in California. The widely divergent conclusions on this subject
+registered by the historians will, on investigation, be found, as
+in most such cases, to depend quite as much upon bias of mind and
+preconceived ideals, as upon the bare facts presented, concerning which,
+one would imagine, there can hardly be much difference of opinion. To
+decide upon the value of a given social experiment, we must, to begin
+with, wake up our minds as to what we should wish to see achieved; and
+where there is no unanimity concerning the object to be reached, there
+will scarcely be any in respect of the means employed. It is not to
+be wondered at, therefore, that critical judgment upon the Franciscan
+missionaries and their work has been given here in terms of unqualified
+laudation, and there in the form of severest disapproval, and that
+everyone who touches the topic afresh is expected to take sides. In
+their favor it must, I think, be universally admitted that they wrought
+always with the highest motives and the noblest intentions, and that
+their labours were really fruitful of much good among the native
+tribes. On the other hand, when regarded from the standpoint of secular
+progress, it seems equally certain that their work was sadly hampered
+by narrowness of outlook and understanding, and an utter want of
+appreciation of the demands and conditions of the modern world. Thus
+while we give them the fullest credit for all that they accomplished by
+their teachings and example, we have still frankly to acknowledge
+their failure in the most important and most difficult part of their
+undertaking--in the task of transforming many thousands of ignorant and
+degraded savages into self-respecting men and women, fit for the duties
+and responsibilities of civilization. Yet to put it in this way is to
+show sharply enough that such failure is not hastily to be set down to
+their discredit. It is often said, indeed, that they went altogether the
+wrong way to work for the achievement of the much-desired result; and
+it is unquestionably true, as La Perouse long ago pointed out, that they
+made the fundamental, but with them inevitable mistake, of sacrificing
+the temporal and material welfare of the natives to the consideration of
+so-called "heavenly interests." Yet in common fairness we must remember
+the stuff with which they had to deal. The Indian was by nature a child
+and a slave; and if, out of children and slaves they did not at once
+manufacture independent and law-abiding citizens, is it for us, who have
+not yet exhibited triumphant success in handling the same problem under
+far more favorable conditions, to cover them with our contempt, or
+dismiss them with our blame? Civilization is at best a slow and painful
+affair, as we half-civilized people ought surely to understand by this
+time--a matter not of individuals and years, but of generations and
+centuries; and nothing permanent has ever yet been gained by any
+attempt, how promising soever it may have seemed, to force the natural
+processes of social evolution. The mission padres bore the cross from
+point to point along the far-off Pacific coast; they built churches,
+they founded settlements, they gave their strength to the uplifting of
+the heathen. Little that was enduring came out of all this toil. Perhaps
+this was partly because their methods were shortsighted, their means
+inadequate to the ends proposed. But when we remember that they had set
+their hands to an almost impossible task, we shall perhaps be inclined
+rather to acknowledge their partial success, than to deal harshly with
+them on the score of their manifest failure.
+
+Be all this as it may, however, the missions of California passed away,
+leaving practically nothing behind them but a memory. Yet this is surely
+a memory to be cherished by all who feel a pious reverence for the past,
+and whose hearts are responsive to the sense of tears that there is in
+mortal things. And alike for those who live beneath the blue skies of
+California, and for those who wander awhile as visitors among her
+scenes of wonder and enchantment, the old mission buildings will ever
+be objects of curious and unique interest. Survivals from a by-gone era,
+embodiments not only of the purposes of their founders, but of the faith
+which built the great cathedrals of Europe, they stand pathetic figures
+in a world to which they do not seem to belong. In the noise and bustle
+of the civilization which is taking possession of what was once their
+territory, they have no share. The life about them looks towards the
+future. They point mutely to the past. A tender sentiment clings
+about them; in their hushed enclosures we breathe a drowsy old-world
+atmosphere of peace; to linger within their walls, to muse in their
+graveyards, is to step out of the noisy present into the silence of
+departed years. In a land where everything is of yesterday, and whose
+marvellous natural beauties are but rarely touched with the associations
+of history or charms of romance, these things have a subtle and peculiar
+power--a magic not to be resisted by any one who turns aside for an hour
+or two from the highways of the modern world, to dream among the scenes
+where the old padres toiled and died. And as in imagination he there
+calls up the ghostly figures of neophyte and soldier and priest, now
+busy with the day's task-work, now kneeling at twilight mass in the
+dimly-lighted chapel; as the murmur of strange voices and the faint
+music of bell and chant steal in upon his ears; he will hardly fail
+to realize that, however much or little the Franciscan missionaries
+accomplished for California, they have passed down to our prosaic
+after-generation a legacy of poetry, whereof the sweetness will not soon
+die away.
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[Footnote 1: In the sequel, it may here be noted, the Franciscans
+ceded Baja California to the Dominicans, keeping Alta California to
+themselves.]
+
+[Footnote 2: The mission was transferred in 1874 from the location
+selected by Junipero to a site some two miles distant, up the river.]
+
+[Footnote 3: The Diary, furnishing a detailed itinerary of the
+expedition, is given in full in Palou's noticias de la Nueva
+California.]
+
+[Footnote 4: This is now colloquially known as the Mission Dolores.
+Its proper title is, however, Mission of San Francisco de Assis. It
+originally stood on the Laguna de los Dolores (now filled up); and hence
+its popular name.]
+
+[Footnote 5: The site originally chosen lay too low, and from the outset
+danger of inundation was foreseen. A flood occurred in 1779, and in 1784
+the mission was removed to higher ground. The present buildings date
+from 1825-26.]
+
+[Footnote 6: The original adobe church was injured by earthquakes in
+1806 and 1812. The present edifice was begun in 1815 and finished in
+1820.]
+
+[Footnote 7: The table given by the French traveler, De Mofras, in his
+authoritative Exploration du Territoire de L'Oregon, les Californies,
+etc., shows us that the distance between mission and mission nowhere
+exceeded nineteen leagues, and that it was often very much less.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Famous Missions of California, by
+William Henry Hudson
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