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diff --git a/5211.txt b/5211.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f5a51da --- /dev/null +++ b/5211.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1808 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Famous Missions of California, by +William Henry Hudson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Famous Missions of California + +Author: William Henry Hudson + +Release Date: March, 2004 [EBook #5211] +Posting Date: March 28, 2009 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by David Schwan + + + + + + + +THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA + + +by William Henry Hudson + +Lately Professor of English Literature at Stanford University, + + + + To + + Bonnie Burckhalter Fletcher + + With Affectionate Recollections of California Days + + + + London, England, 1901 + + + +Contents. + + + + I. Of Junipero Serra, and the proposed settlement of Alta California. + II. How Father Junipero came to San Diego. + III. Of the founding of the Mission at San Diego. + IV. Of Portola's quest for the harbour of Monterey, and the founding + of the Mission of San Carlos. + V. How Father Junipero established the Missions of San Antonio de + Padua, San Gabriel, and San Louis Obispo. + VI. Of the tragedy at San Diego, and the founding of the Missions of + San Juan Capistrano, San Francisco, and Santa Clara. + VII. Of the establishment of the Mission of San Buenaventura, and of + the death and character of Father Junipero. + VIII. How the Missions of Santa Barbara, La Purisima Concepcion, Santa + Cruz, Soledad, San Jose, San Juan Bautista, San Miguel, San + Fernando, San Luis Rey, and Santa Inez, were added to the list. + IX. Of the founding of the Missions of San Rafael and San Francisco + Solano. + X. Of the downfall of the Missions of California. + XI. Of the old Missions, and life in them. + XII. Of the Mission system in California, and its results. + + + + +THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA. + + + + +I. + + + +On the 1st of July, 1769--a day forever memorable in the annals of +California--a small party of men, worn out by the fatigues and hardships +of their long and perilous journey from San Fernandez de Villicata, +came in sight of the beautiful Bay of San Diego. They formed the +last division of a tripartite expedition which had for its object the +political and spiritual conquest of the great Northwest coast of the +Pacific; and among their number were Gaspar de Portola, the colonial +governor and military commander of the enterprise; and Father Junipero +Serra, with whose name and achievements the early history of California +is indissolubly bound up. + +This expedition was the outcome of a determination on the part of Spain +to occupy and settle the upper of its California provinces, or Alta +California, as it was then called, and thus effectively prevent the more +than possible encroachments of the Russians and the English. Fully alive +to the necessity of immediate and decisive action, Carlos III. had sent +Jose de Galvez out to New Spain, giving him at once large powers +as visitador general of the provinces, and special instructions to +establish military posts at San Diego and Monterey. Galvez was a man of +remarkable zeal, energy, and organizing ability, and after the manner of +his age and church he regarded his undertaking as equally important from +the religious and from the political side. The twofold purpose of his +expedition was, as he himself stated it, "to establish the Catholic +faith among a numerous heathen people, submerged in the obscure darkness +of paganism, and to extend the dominion of the King, our Lord, and +protect this peninsula from the ambitious views of foreign nations." +From the first it was his intention that the Cross and the flag of Spain +should be carried side by side in the task of dominating and colonizing +the new country. Having, therefore, gathered his forces together at +Santa Ana, near La Paz, he sent thence to Loreto, inviting Junipero +Serra, the recently appointed President of the California Missions, to +visit him in his camp. Loreto was a hundred leagues distant; but this +was no obstacle to the religious enthusiast, whose lifelong dream it had +been to bear the faith far and wide among the barbarian peoples of +the Spanish world. He hastened to La Paz, and in the course of a long +interview with Galvez not only promised his hearty co-operation, but +also gave great help in the arrangement of the preliminary details of +the expedition. + +In the opportunity thus offered him for the missionary labour in +hitherto unbroken fields, Father Junipero saw a special manifestation +both of the will and of the favour of God. He threw himself into the +work with characteristic ardour and determination, and Galvez quickly +realized that his own efforts were now to be ably seconded by a man who, +by reason of his devotion, courage, and personal magnetism, might well +seem to have been providentially designated for the task which had been +put into his hands. + +Miguel Joseph Serra, now known only by his adopted name of Junipero, +which he took out of reverence for the chosen companion of St. Francis, +was a native of the Island of Majorca, where he was born, of humble +folk, in 1713. According to the testimony of his intimate friend and +biographer, Father Francesco Palou, his desires, even during boyhood, +were turned towards the religious life. Before he was seventeen he +entered the Franciscan Order, a regular member of which he became a year +or so later. His favorite reading during his novitiate, Palou tells us, +was in the Lives of the Saints, over which he would pore day after +day with passionate and ever-growing enthusiasm; and from these devout +studies sprang an intense ambition to "imitate the holy and venerable +men" who had given themselves up to the grand work of carrying the +Gospel among gentiles and savages. The missionary idea thus implanted +became the dominant purpose of his life, and neither the astonishing +success of his sermons, nor the applause with which his lectures were +received when he was made professor of theology, sufficed to dampen his +apostolic zeal. Whatever work was given him to do, he did with all +his heart, and with all his might, for such was the man's nature; but +everywhere and always he looked forward to the mission field as his +ultimate career. He was destined, however, to wait many years before his +chance came. At length, in 1749, after making many vain petitions to +be set apart for foreign service, he and Palou were offered places in +a body of priests who, at the urgent request of the College of San +Fernando, in Mexico, were then being sent out as recruits to various +parts of the New World. The hour had come; and in a spirit of gratitude +and joy too deep for words, Junipero Serra set his face towards the far +lands which were henceforth to be his home. + +The voyage out was long and trying. In the first stage of it--from +Majorca to Malaga--the dangers and difficulties of seafaring were +varied, if not relieved by strange experiences, of which Palou has +left us a quaint and graphic account. Their vessel was a small English +coaster, in command of a stubborn cross-patch of a captain, who combined +navigation with theology, and whose violent protestations and fondness +for doctrinal dispute allowed his Catholic passengers, during the +fifteen days of their passage, scarcely a minute's peace. His habit was +to declaim chosen texts out of his "greasy old" English Bible, putting +his own interpretation upon them; then, if when challenged by Father +Junipero, who "was well trained in dogmatic theology," he could find +no verse to fit his argument, he would roundly declare that the leaf he +wanted happened to be torn. Such methods are hardly praiseworthy. But +this was not the worst. Sometimes the heat of argument would prove too +much for him, and then, I grieve to say, he would even threaten to pitch +his antagonists overboard, and shape his course for London. However, +despite this unlooked-for danger, Junipero and his companions finally +reached Malaga, whence they proceeded first to Cadiz, and then, after +some delay, to Vera Cruz. The voyage across from Cadiz alone occupied +ninety-nine days, though of these, fifteen were spent at Porto Rico, +where Father Junipero improved the time by establishing a mission. +Hardships were not lacking; for water and food ran short, and the vessel +encountered terrific storms. But "remembering the end for which they had +come," the father "felt no fear", and his own buoyancy did much to keep +up the flagging spirits of those about him. Even when Vera Cruz was +reached, the terrible journey was by no means over, for a hundred +Spanish leagues lay between that port and the City of Mexico. Too +impatient to wait for the animals and wagons which had been promised for +transportation, but which, through some oversight or blunder, had not +yet arrived in Vera Cruz, Junipero set out to cover the distance on +foot. The strain brought on an ulcer in one of his legs, from which he +suffered all the rest of his life; and it is highly probable that he +would have died on the road but for the quite unexpected succor which +came to him more than once in the critical hour. This, according to his +wont, he did not fail to refer directly to the special favour of the +Virgin and St. Joseph. + +For nearly nineteen years after his arrival in Mexico, Junipero was +engaged in active missionary work, mainly among the Indians of the +Sierra Gorda, whom he successfully instructed in the first principles +of the Catholic faith and in the simpler arts of peace. Then came his +selection as general head, or president, of the Missions of California, +the charge of which, on the expulsion of the Jesuits, in 1768, had +passed over to the Franciscans. These, thirteen in number, were all in +Lower California, for no attempt had as yet been made to evangelize +the upper province. This, however, the indefatigable apostle was now to +undertake by co-operating with Jose de Galvez in his proposed northwest +expedition [1]. Junipero was now fifty-five years of age, and could look +back upon a career of effort and accomplishment which to any less active +man might well seem to have earned repose for body and mind. Yet great +as his services to church and civilization had been in the past, by far +the most important part of his life-work still lay before him. + + + + +II. + + +As a result of the conference between Galvez and Father Junipero, it +was decided that their joint expedition should be sent out in two +portions--one by sea and one by land; the land portion being again +sub-divided into two, in imitation, Palou informs us, of the policy +of the patriarch Joseph, "so that if one came to misfortune, the other +might still be saved." It was arranged that four missionaries should go +into the ships, and one with the advance-detachment of the land-force, +the second part of which was to include the president himself. So far as +the work of the missionaries was concerned their immediate purpose was +to establish three settlements--one at San Diego, a second at Monterey, +and a third on a site to be selected, about midway between the two, +which was to be called San Buenaventura. The two divisions of the +land-force were under the leadership of Captain Fernando Rivera y +Moncada and Governor Portola respectively. The ships were to carry all +the heavier portions of the camp equipage, provisions, household goods, +vestments and sacred vessels; the land-parties were to take with them +herds and flocks from Loreto. The understanding was that whichever party +first reached San Diego was to wait there twenty days for the rest, and +in the event of their failure to arrive within that time, to push on to +Monterey. + +The sea-detachment of the general expedition--the "Seraphic and +Apostolic Squadron," as Palou calls it, was composed of three ships--the +San Carlos, the San Antonio, and the San Joseph. A list, fortunately +preserved, gives all the persons on board the San Carlos, a vessel of +about 200 tons only, and the flagship of Don Vicente Vila, the commander +of the marine division. They were as follows:--the commander himself; +a lieutenant in charge of a company of soldiers; a missionary; the +captain, pilot and surgeon; twenty-five soldiers; the officers and crew +of the ship, twenty-five in all; the baker, the cook and two assistants; +and two blacksmiths: total, sixty-two souls. An inventory shows that the +vessel was provisioned for eight months. + +The San Carlos left La Paz on the 9th of January; the San Antonio on the +15th of February; the San Joseph on the 16th of June. All the vessels +met with heavy storms, and the San Carlos, being driven sadly out of her +route, did not reach San Diego till twenty days after the San Antonio, +though dispatched some five weeks earlier. We shudder to read that of +her crew but one sailor and the cook were left alive; the rest, along +with many of the soldiers, having succumbed to the scurvy. The San +Antonio also lost eight of her crew from the same dreadful disease. +These little details serve better than any general description to give +us an idea of the horrible conditions of Spanish seamanship in the +middle of the eighteenth century. As for the San Joseph, she never +reached her destination at all, though where and how she met her fate +remains one of the dark mysteries of the ocean. Two small points in +connection with her loss are perhaps sufficiently curious to merit +notice. In the first place, she was the only one of the ships that had +no missionary on board; and secondly, she was called after the very +saint who had been named special patron of the entire undertaking. + +The original plan, as we have seen, had been that Father Junipero should +accompany the governor in the second division of the land-expedition; +but this, when the day fixed for departure came, was found to be quite +impossible owing to the ulcerous sore on his leg, which had been much +aggravated by the exertions of his recent hurried journey from Loreto to +La Paz and back. Greatly chafing under the delay, he was none the less +obliged to postpone his start for several weeks. At length, on the 28th +of March, in company with two soldiers and a servant, he mounted his +mule and set out. The event showed that he had been guilty of undue +haste, for he suffered terribly on the rough way, and on reaching +San Xavier, whither he went to turn over the management of the Lower +California missions to Palou, who was then settled there, his condition +was such that his friend implored him to remain behind, and allow him +(Palou) to go forward in his stead. But of this Junipero would not hear, +for he regarded himself as specially chosen and called by God for the +work to which he stood, body and soul, committed. "Let us speak no more +of this," he said. "I have placed all my faith in God, through whose +goodness I hope to reach not only San Diego, to plant and fix there the +standard of the Holy Cross, but even as far as Monterey." And Palou, +seeing that Junipero was not to be turned aside, wisely began to talk of +other things. + +After three days devoted to business connected with the missions of +the lower province, the indomitable father determined to continue his +journey, notwithstanding the fact that, still totally unable to move his +leg, he had to be lifted by two men into the saddle. We may imagine that +poor Palou found it hard enough to answer his friend's cheery farewells, +and watched him with sickness of heart as he rode slowly away. It seemed +little likely indeed that they would ever meet again on this side of the +grave. But Junipero's courage never gave out. Partly for rest and partly +for conference with those in charge, he lingered awhile at the missions +along the way; but, nevertheless, presently came up with Portola and his +detachment, with whom he proceeded to Villacata. Here during a temporary +halt, he founded a mission which was dedicated to San Fernando, King of +Castile and Leon. But the worst experiences of the journey were still +in store. For when the party was ready to move forward again towards San +Diego, which, as time was fast running on, the commander was anxious to +reach with the least possible delay, it was found that Junipero's leg +was in such an inflamed condition that he could neither stand, nor sit, +nor sleep. For a few leagues he persevered, without complaint to any +one, and then collapsed. Portola urged him to return at once to San +Fernando for the complete repose in which alone there seemed any chance +of recovery, but after his manner Junipero refused; nor, out of kindly +feeling for the tired native servants, would he ever hear of the litter +which the commander thereupon proposed to have constructed for his +transportation. The situation was apparently beyond relief, when, after +prayer to God, the padre called to him one of the muleteers. "Son," he +said--the conversation is reported in full by Palou, from whose memoir +of his friend it is here translated--"do you not know how to make a +remedy for the ulcer on my foot and leg?" And the muleteer replied: +"Father, how should I know of any remedy? Am I a surgeon? I am a +muledriver, and can only cure harness-wounds on animals." "Then, son." +rejoined Junipero, "consider that I am an animal, and that this ulcer is +a harness-wound... and prepare for me the same medicament as you would +make for a beast." Those who heard this request smiled. And the muleteer +obeyed; and mixing certain herbs with hot tallow, applied the compound +to the ulcerated leg, with the astonishing result that the sufferer +slept that night in absolute comfort, and was perfectly able the next +morning to undertake afresh the fatigues of the road. + +Of the further incidents of the tedious journey it is needless to write. +It is enough to say that for forty-six days--from the 15th of May to +the 1st of July--the little party plodded on, following the track of +the advance-division of the land-expedition under Rivera y Moncada. With +what joy and gratitude they at last looked down upon the harbour of +San Diego, and realized that the first object of their efforts had now +indeed been achieved, may be readily imagined. Out in the bay lay the +San Carlos and the San Antonio, and on the shore were the tents of the +men who had preceded them, and of whose safety they were now assured; +and when, with volley after volley, they announced their arrival, +ships and camp replied in glad salute. And this responsive firing was +continued, says Palou, in his lively description of the scene, "until, +all having alighted, they were ready to testify their mutual love by +close embraces and affectionate rejoicing to see the expeditions thus +joined, and at their desired destination." Yet one cannot but surmise +that the delights of reunion were presently chilled when those who had +thus been spared to come together fell into talk over the companions who +had perished by the way. History has little to tell us of such details; +but the sympathetic reader will hardly fail to provide them for himself. + +The condition of things which the governor and the president +found confronting them on their arrival was indeed the reverse of +satisfactory. Of the one hundred and thirty or so men comprising the +combined companies, many were seriously ill; some it was necessary to +dispatch at once with the San Antonio back to San Blas for additional +supplies and reinforcements; a further number had to be detailed for +the expedition to Monterey, which, in accordance with the explicit +instructions of the visitador general it was decided to send out +immediately. All this left the San Diego camp extremely short-handed, +but there was no help for it. To reach Monterey at all costs was +Portola's next duty; and on the 14th of July, with a small party which +included Fathers Crespi and Gomez, he commenced his northwest march. + + + + +III. + + +In the meanwhile, says Palou, "that fervent zeal which continually +glowed and burned in the heart of our venerable Father Junipero, did not +permit him to forget the principal object of his journey." As soon +as Portola had left the encampment, he began to busy himself with the +problem of the mission which, it had been determined, should be +founded on that spot. Ground was carefully chosen with an eye to the +requirements, not only of the mission itself, but also of the pueblo, or +village, which in course of time would almost certainly grow up about it +[2]; and on the 16th of July--the day upon which, as the anniversary +of a great victory over the Moors in 1212, the Spanish church solemnly +celebrated the Triumph of the Holy Cross--the first mission of Upper +California was dedicated to San Diego de Alcala, after whom the bay had +been named by Sebastian Viscaino, the explorer, many years before. The +ceremonies were a repetition of those which had been employed in the +founding of the Mission of San Fernando at Villicata; the site was +blessed and sprinkled with holy water; a great cross reared, facing the +harbour; the mass celebrated; the Venite Creator Spiritus sung. And, +as before, where the proper accessories failed, Father Junipero and his +colleagues fell back undeterred upon the means which Heaven had actually +put at their disposal. The constant firing of the troops supplied the +lack of musical instruments, and the smoke of the powder was accepted as +a substitute for incense. Father Palou's brief and unadorned description +will not prove altogether wanting in impressiveness for those who in +imagination can conjure up a picture of the curious, yet dramatic scene. + +The preliminary work of foundation thus accomplished, Father Junipero +gathered about him the few healthy men who could be spared from the +tending of their sick comrades and routine duties, and with their help +erected a few rude huts, one of which was immediately consecrated as a +temporary chapel. So far as his own people were concerned, the padre's +labours were for the most part of a grievous character, for, during the +first few months, the records tell us, disease made such fearful ravages +among the soldiers, sailors and servants, that ere long the number of +persons at this settlement had been reduced to twenty. But the tragedy +of these poor nameless fellows--(it was Junipero's pious hope that they +might all be named in Heaven)--after all hardly forms part of our proper +story. The father's real work was to lie among the native Indians, and +it is with his failures and successes in this direction that the main +interest of our California mission annals is connected. + +They were not an attractive people, these "gentiles" of a country which +to the newcomers must itself have seemed an outer garden of Paradise; +and Junipero's first attempts to gain their good will met with +very slight encouragement. During the ceremonies attendant upon the +foundation and dedication of the mission, they had stood round in silent +wonder, and now they showed themselves responsive to the strangers' +advances to the extent of receiving whatever presents were offered, +provided the gift was not in the form of anything to eat. The Spaniards' +food they would not even touch, apparently regarding it as the cause +of the dire sickness of the troops. And this, in the long run, remarks +Palou, was without doubt "singularly providential," owing to the rapid +depletion of the stores. Ignorance of the Indians' language, of course, +added seriously to the father's difficulties in approaching them, +and presently their thefts of cloth, for the possession of which they +developed a perfect passion, and other depredations, rendered them +exceedingly troublesome. Acts of violence became more and more common, +and by-and-bye, a determined and organized attack upon the mission, in +which the assailants many times outnumbered their opponents, led to a +pitched battle, and the death of one of the Spanish servants. This was +the crisis; for, happily, like a thunderstorm, the disturbance, which +seemed so threatening of future ill, cleared the air, at any rate for +a time; and the kindness with which the Spaniards treated their wounded +foes evidently touched the savage heart. Little by little a few Indians +here and there began to frequent the mission; and with the hearty +welcome accorded them their numbers soon increased. Among them there +happened to be a boy, of some fifteen years of age, who showed himself +more tractable than his fellows, and whom Father Junipero determined +to use as an instrument for his purpose. When the lad had picked up a +smattering of Spanish, the padre sent him to his people with the promise +that if he were allowed to bring back one of the children, the youngster +should not only by baptism be made a Christian, but should also (and +here the good father descended to a bribe) be tricked out like +the Spaniards themselves, in handsome clothes. A few days later, a +"gentile," followed by a large crowd, appeared with a child in his arms, +and the padre, filled with unutterable joy, at once threw a piece of +cloth over it, and called upon one of the soldiers to stand godfather +to this first infant of Christ. But, alas! just as he was preparing to +sprinkle the holy water, the natives snatched the child from him, and +made off with it (and the cloth) to their own rancheria. The soldiers +who stood round as witnesses were furious at this insult, and, left to +themselves, would have inflicted summary punishment upon the offenders. +But the good father pacified them, attributing his failure--of which he +was wont to speak tearfully to the end of his life--to his own sins +and unworthiness. However, this first experience in convert-making +was fortunately not prophetic, for though it is true that many months +elapsed before a single neophyte was gained for the mission, and though +more serious troubles were still to come, in the course of the next +few years a number of the aborigines, both children and adults, were +baptized. + + + + +IV. + + +While Junipero and his companions were thus engaged in planting the +faith among the Indians of San Diego, Portola's expedition was meeting +with unexpected trials and disappointments. The harbour of Monterey +had been discovered and described by Viscaino at the beginning of the +seventeenth century, and it seemed no very difficult matter to reach +it by way of the coast. But either the charts misled them, or their own +calculations erred, or the appearance of the landscape was strangely +deceptive--at any rate, for whatever reason or combination of reasons, +the exploring party passed the harbour without recognizing it, though +actually lingering awhile on the sand hills overlooking the bay. Half +persuaded in their bewilderment that some great catastrophe must, since +Viscaino's observations, have obliterated the port altogether, they +pressed northward another forty leagues, and little dreaming of the +importance attaching to their wanderings, crossed the Coast range, and +looked down thence over the Santa Clara valley and the "immense arm" +of San Francisco Bay. By this time the rainy season had set in, and +convinced as they now were that they must, through some oversight or +ill-chance, have missed the object of their quest, they determined to +retrace their steps, and institute another and more thorough search. +On again reaching the neighborhood of Monterey, they spent a whole +fortnight in systematic exploration, but still, strangely enough, +without discovering "any indication or landmark" of the harbour. +Baffled and disheartened, therefore, the leaders resolved to abandon the +enterprise. They then erected two large wooden crosses as memorials of +their visit, and cutting on one of these the words--"Dig at the foot +of this and you will find a writing"--buried there a brief narrative of +their experiences. This is reproduced in the diary of Father Crespe +[3]; and its closing words have a touch of simple pathos: "At last, +undeceived, and despairing of finding it [the harbour] after so many +efforts, sufferings and labours, and having left of all our provisions +but fourteen small sacks of flour, our expedition leaves this place +to-day for San Diego; I beg of Almighty God to guide it, and for thee, +voyager, that His divine providence may lead thee to the harbour of +salvation. Done in this Bay of Pinos, the 9th of December, 1769." On +the cross on the other side of Point Pinos was cut with a razor +this legend:--"The land expedition returned to San Diego for want of +provisions, this 9th day of December, 1769." + +The little party--or more correctly speaking--what was left of it, did +not reach San Diego till the 25th of the following month, having in +their march down suffered terribly from hunger, exposure, wet, fatigue +and sickness. Depressed themselves, they found nothing to encourage them +in the mission and camp, where death had played havoc among those they +had left behind them six months before, and where the provisions were so +fast running low that only the timely reappearance of the San Antonio, +long overdue, would save the survivors from actual starvation. Perhaps +it is hardly surprising that, under these circumstances, Portola's +courage should have failed him, and that he should have decided upon a +return to Mexico. He caused an inventory of all available provisions to +be taken, and calculating that, with strict economy, and setting aside +what would be required for the journey back to San Fernando, they might +last till somewhat beyond the middle of March, he gave out that unless +the San Antonio should arrive by the 20th of that month, he should +on that day abandon San Diego, and start south. But if the governor +imagined for a moment that he could persuade the padre presidente to +fall in with this arrangement, he did not know his man. Junipero firmly +believed, despite the failure of Portola's expedition, that the harbour +of Monterey still existed, and might be found; he even interested +Vicente Vila in a plan of his own for reaching it by sea; and he +furthermore made up his mind that, come what might, nothing should +ever induce him to turn his back upon his work. Then a wonderful thing +happened. On the 19th of March--the very day before that fixed by the +governor for his departure, and when everything was in readiness for +to-morrow's march--the sail of a ship appeared far out at sea; and +though the vessel presently disappeared towards the northwest, it +returned four days later and proved to be none other than the San +Antonio, bearing the much needed succour. She had passed up towards +Monterey in the expectation of finding the larger body of settlers +there, and had only put back to San Diego when unexpectedly, (and as it +seemed, providentially), she had run short of water. It was inevitable +that Father Junipero should see in this series of happenings the very +hand of God--the more so as the day of relief chanced to be the festival +of St. Joseph, who, as we have noted, was the patron of the mission +enterprise. + +The arrival of the San Antonio put an entirely new complexion upon +affairs; and, relieved of immediate anxiety, Portola now resolved upon a +second expedition in quest of Monterey. Two divisions, one for sea, the +other for land, were accordingly made ready; the former, which included +Junipero, started in the San Antonio, on the 16th of April; the latter, +under the leadership of Portola, a day later. Strong adverse winds +interfered with the vessel, which did not make Monterey for a month and +a half. The land-party, following the coast, reached the more southern +of the great wooden crosses on the 24th of May, and after some +difficulty succeeded at last in identifying the harbour. Seven days +later, steering by the fires lighted for her guidance along the shore, +the San Antonio came safely into port; and formal possession of the bay +and surrounding country was presently taken in the name of church and +King. This was on the 3rd of June, the Feast of Pentecost; and on that +day of peculiar significance in the apostolic history of the church, the +second of the Upper California missions came into being. Palou has left +us a full account of the ceremonies. Governor, soldiers and priests +gathered together on the beach, on the spot where, in 1603, the +Carmelite fathers who had accompanied Viscaino, had celebrated the mass. +An altar was improvised and bells rung; and then, in alb and stole, the +father-president invoked the aid of the Holy Ghost, solemnly chanted the +Venite Creator Spiritus; blessed and raised a great cross; "to put to +flight all the infernal enemies;" and sprinkled with holy water the +beach and adjoining fields. Mass was then sung; Father Junipero preached +a sermon; again the roar of cannon and muskets took the place of +instrumental music; and the function was concluded with the Te Deum. +Though now commonly called Carmelo, or Carmel, from the river across +which it looks, and which has thus lent it a memory of the first +Christian explorers on the spot, this mission is properly known by the +name of San Carlos Borromeo, Cardinal-Archbishop of Milan. A few huts +enclosed by a palisade, and forming the germ at once of the religious +and of the military settlement, were hastily erected. But the actual +building of the mission was not begun until the summer of 1771 + + + + +V. + + +News of the establishment of the missions and military posts at San +Diego and Monterey was in due course carried to the City of Mexico, +where it so delighted the Marques de Croix, Viceroy of New Spain, and +Jose de Galvez, that they not only set the church bells ringing, but +forthwith began to make arrangements for the founding of more missions +in the upper province. Additional priests were provided by the College +of San Fernando; funds liberally subscribed; and the San Antonio made +ready to sail from San Blas with the friars and supplies. On the 21st +of May, 1771, the good ship dropped anchor at Monterey, where, in +the meantime, Junipero, though busy enough among the natives of the +neighborhood, was suffering grievous disappointment because, from lack +of priests and soldiers, he was unable to proceed at once with the +proposed establishment of San Buenaventura. The safe arrival of ten +assistants now brought him assurance of a rapid extension of work in +"the vineyard of the Lord." He was not the man to let time slip by him +unimproved. Plans were immediately laid for carrying the cross still +further into the wilderness, and six new missions--those of San +Buenaventura, San Gabriel, San Louis Obispo, San Antonio, Santa Clara +and San Francisco--were presently agreed upon. It was discovered later +on, however, that these plans outran the resources at the president's +disposal, and much to his regret, the design for settlements at Santa +Clara and San Francisco had to be temporarily given up. + +There was, none the less, plenty to engage the energies of even so +tireless a worker as Junipero, for three of the new missions were +successfully established between July, 1771, and the autumn of the +following year. The first of these was the Mission of San Antonio +de Padua, in a beautiful spot among the Santa Lucia mountains, some +twenty-five leagues southeast of Monterey; the second, that of San +Gabriel Arcangel, near what is now known as the San Gabriel river; +and the third, the Mission of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, for which a +location was chosen near the coast, about twenty-five leagues southeast +of San Antonio. In his account of the founding of the first named of +these, Palou throws in a characteristic touch. After the bells had been +hung on trees and loudly tolled, he says, the excited padre-presidente +began to shout like one transported:--"Ho, gentiles! Come to the Holy +Church; Come! Come! and receive the faith of Jesus Christ!" His comrade, +Father Pieras, standing by astonished, interrupted his fervent eloquence +with the eminently practical remark that as there were no gentiles +within hearing, it was idle to ring the bells. But the enthusiast's +ardour was not to be damped by such considerations, and he continued to +ring and shout. I, for one, am grateful for such a detail as this. +An even more significant story, though of a quite different sort, is +recorded of the dedication of San Gabriel. It was, of course, inevitable +that here and there in connection with such a record as this of Serra +and his work, there should spring up legends of miraculous doings and +occurrences; though on the whole, it is, perhaps, remarkable that the +mythopoeic tendency was not more powerful. The incident now referred to +may be taken as an illustration. While the missionary party were engaged +in exploring for a suitable site, a large force of natives, under two +chiefs, suddenly broke in upon them. Serious conflict seemed imminent; +when one of the fathers drew forth a piece of canvas bearing the picture +of the Virgin. Instantly the savages threw their weapons to the +ground, and, following their leaders, crowded with offerings about the +marvellous image. Thus the danger was averted. Further troubles attended +the settlement at San Gabriel; but in after years it became one of the +most successful of all the missions, and gained particular fame from the +industries maintained by its converts, and their skill in carving wood, +horn and leather. + + + + +VI. + + +Though, as we thus see, Father Junipero had ample reason to be +encouraged over the progress of his enterprise, he still had various +difficulties to contend with. The question of supplies often assumed +formidable proportions, and the labors of the missionaries were not +always as fruitful as had been hoped. Fortunately, however, the Indians +were, as a rule, friendly, notwithstanding the fact that the behaviour +of the Spanish soldiers, especially towards their women, occasionally +aroused their distrust and resentment. At one establishment only did +serious disturbances actually threaten for a time the continuance of +the mission and its work. Junipero had lately returned from Mexico, with +undiminished zeal and all sorts of fresh designs revolving in his brain, +when a courier reached him at San Carlos bringing news of a terrible +disaster at San Diego. Important affairs detained him for a time at +Monterey, but when at length he was able to get to the scene of the +trouble, it was to find that first reports had not been exaggerated. On +the night of the 4th of November, 1775, eight hundred Indians had made +a ferocious assault upon the mission, fired the buildings, and brutally +done to death Father Jayme, one of the two priests in charge. "God +be thanked," Junipero had exclaimed, when the letter containing the +dreadful news had been read to him, "now the soil is watered, and the +conquest of the Dieguinos will soon be complete!" In the faith that +the blood of the martyrs is veritably the seed of the church, he, on +reaching San Diego, with his customary energy, set about the task of +re-establishing the mission; and the buildings which presently arose +from the ruins were a great improvement upon those which had been +destroyed. + +Before these alarming events at the mother-mission broke in upon his +regular work, the president had resolved upon yet another settlement +(not included in the still uncompleted plan), for which he had selected +a point on the coast some twenty-six leagues north of San Diego, and +which was to be dedicated to San Juan Capistrano. A beginning had indeed +been made there, not by Junipero in person, but by fathers delegated by +him for the purpose; but when news of the murder of Father Jayme reached +them, they had hastily buried bells, chasubles and supplies, and hurried +south. As soon as ever he felt it wise to leave San Diego Junipero +himself now repaired to the abandoned site; and there, on the 1st of +November, 1776, the bells were dug up and hung, mass said, and +the mission established. It is curious to remember that while the +padre-presidente was thus immersed in apostolic labors on the far +Pacific coast, on the other side of the North American continent events +of a very different character were shaking the whole civilized world. + +Though the establishment of San Juan Capistrano is naturally mentioned +in this place, partly because of the abortive start made there a year +before, and partly because its actual foundation constituted the next +noteworthy incident in Junipero's career, this mission is, in strict +chronological order, not the sixth, but the seventh on our list. For +some three weeks before its dedication, and without the knowledge of the +president himself, though in full accordance with his designs, the cross +had been planted at a point many leagues northward beyond San Carlos, +and destined presently to be the most important on the coast. It will be +remembered that when Portola's party made their first futile search for +the harbour of Monterey, they had by accident found their way as far as +the Bay of San Francisco. The significance of their discovery was +not appreciated at the time, either by themselves or by those at +headquarters to whom it was reported; but later explorations so clearly +established the value of the spot for settlement and fortification, +that it was determined to build a presidio there. Some years previous +to this, as we have seen, a mission on the northern bay had been part +of Junipero's ambitious scheme; and though at the time he was forced by +circumstances to hold his hand, the idea was constantly uppermost in +his thoughts. At length, when, in the summer of 1776, an expedition was +despatched from Monterey for the founding of the proposed presidio, two +missionaries were included in the party--one of these being none other +than that Father Palou, whose records have been our chief guides in +the course of this story. The buildings of the presidio--store +house, commandant's dwelling, and huts for the soldiers and their +families--were completed by the middle of September; and on the 17th +of that month--the day of St. Francis, patron of the station and +harbour--imposing ceremonies of foundation were performed. A wooden +church was then built; and on the 9th of October, in the presence of +many witnesses, Father Palou said mass, the image of St. Francis was +borne about in procession, and the mission solemnly dedicated to his +name [4]. + +It was at San Luis Obispo on his way back from San Diego to Monterey, +that Father Junipero learned of the foundation of the mission at San +Francisco, and though he may doubtless have felt some little regret +at not having himself been present on such an occasion, his heart +overflowed with joy. For there was a special reason why the long delay +in carrying out this portion of his plan had weighed heavily upon him. +Years before, when the visitador general had told him that the first +three missions in Alta California were to be named after San Diego, +San Carlos and San Buenaventura (for such, we recollect, had been +the original programme), he had exclaimed:--"Then is our father, St. +Francis, to have no mission?" And Galvez had made reply:--"If St. +Francis desires a mission, let him show us his port, and he shall have +one there." To Junipero it had seemed that Portola had providentially +been led beyond Monterey to the Bay of San Francisco, and the founder +of his order had thus given emphatic answer to the visitador's words. +It may well be imagined that he was ill at rest until the saint's wishes +had been carried into effect. + +But this was not the only good work done in the north while Junipero was +busy elsewhere; for on the 12th of January, 1777, the Mission of Santa +Clara was established in the wonderfully fertile and beautiful valley +which is now known by that name. The customary rites were performed +by Father Tomas de la Pena, a rude chapel erected, and the work of +constructing the necessary buildings of the settlement immediately begun +[5]. It should be noted in passing that before the end of the year the +town of San Jose--or, to give it its full Spanish title, El Pueblo de +San Jose de Guadalupe--was founded near by. This has historic interest +as the first purely civil settlement in California. The fine Alameda +from the mission to the pueblo was afterwards made and laid out under +the fathers' supervision. + + + + +VII. + + +Though Junipero's subordinates had thus done without him in these +important developments at San Francisco and Santa Clara, he still +resolved to go north, both to visit the new foundations and to inspect +for himself the marvellous country of which he had heard much, but which +he had not yet seen. As usual, he was long detained by urgent affairs, +and it was not till autumn that he succeeded in breaking away. He made a +short stay at Santa Clara, and then pushed on to San Francisco, which he +reached in time to say mass on St. Francis' day. After a ten days' rest, +he crossed to the presidio and feasted his eyes on the glorious vision +of the Golden Gate--a sight which once seen is never to be forgotten. +"Thanks be to God!" he cried, in rapture (these, says Palou, were the +words most frequently on his lips); "now our Father St. Francis, with +the Holy Cross of the procession of missions, has reached the ultimate +end of this continent of California. To go further ships will be +required!" Yet his joy was tempered with the thought that the eight +missions already founded were very far apart, and that much labour would +be necessary to fill up the gaps. + +It was thus with the feeling that, while something had been done, far +more was left to do, that the padre returned to his own special charge +at San Carlos. Various circumstances in combination had caused the +postponement, year after year, of that third mission, which, according +to original intentions, was to have followed immediately upon the +establishments at San Diego and Monterey. Three new settlements were now +projected on the Santa Barbara Channel, and the first of these was to +be the mission of San Buenaventura. It was not until 1782, however, that +the long-delayed purpose was at length accomplished. The site chosen +was at the southeastern extremity of the channel, and close to an Indian +village, or rancheria to which Portala's expedition in 1769 had given +the name of Ascencion de Nuestra Senora, or, briefly, Assumpta. A little +later on, in pursuance of the same plan, the then governor, Filipe de +Neve, took formal possession of a spot some ten leagues distant, and +there began the construction of the presidio of Santa Barbara. It was +Junipero's earnest desire to proceed at once with the adjoining mission. +But the governor, for reasons of his own, threw obstacles in the way, +and in the end this fresh undertaking was left to other hands. + +For we have now come to the close of Father Junipero's long and +strenuous career; and as we look back over the record of it, our wonder +is, not that he should have died when he did, but rather that he had not +killed himself many years before. His is surely one of those cases in +which supreme spiritual power and sheer force of will triumph over an +accumulation of bodily ills. Far from robust of constitution, he +had never given himself consideration or repose, forcing himself to +exertions which it would have appeared utterly impossible that his frame +could bear, and adding to the constant strain of his labours and travels +the hardships of self-inflicted tortures of a severe ascetic regime. He +had always been much troubled by the old ulcer on his leg, though +this, no matter how painful, he never regarded save when it actually +incapacitated him for work; and for many years he had suffered from a +serious affection of the heart, which had been greatly aggravated, even +if it was not in the first instance caused, by his habit of beating +himself violently on his chest with a huge stone, at the conclusion of +his sermons--to the natural horror of his hearers, who, it is said, +were often alarmed lest he should drop dead before their eyes. The fatal +issue of such practices could only be a question of time. At length, +mental anxiety and sorrow added their weight to his burden--particularly +disappointment at the slow progress of his enterprise, and grief over +the death of his fellow-countryman and close friend, Father Crespi, who +passed to his well-earned rest on New Year's Day, 1782. After this +loss, it is recorded, he was never the same man again, though he held so +tenaciously to his duties, that only a year before the call came to him, +being then over seventy, he limped from San Diego to Monterey, visiting +his missions, and weeping over the outlying Indian rancherias, because +he was powerless to help the unconverted dwellers in them. He died at +San Carlos, tenderly nursed to the end by the faithful Palou, on the +28th August, 1784; and his passing was so peaceful that those watching +thought him asleep. On hearing the mission bells toll for his death, the +whole population, knowing well what had occurred, burst into tears; and +when, clothed in the simple habit of his order, his body was laid out +in his cell, the native neophytes crowded in with flowers, while the +Spanish soldiers and sailors pressed round in the hope of being blessed +by momentary contact with his corpse. He was laid beneath the mission +altar beside his beloved friend Crespi; but when, in after years, a new +church was built, the remains of both were removed and placed within it. + +It is not altogether easy to measure such a man as Junipero Serra by our +ordinary modern standards of character and conduct. He was essentially +a religious enthusiast, and as a religious enthusiast he must be judged. +To us who read his story from a distance, who breathe an atmosphere +totally different from his, and whose lives are governed by quite +other passions and ideals, he may often appear one-sided, extravagant, +deficient in tact and forethought, and, in the excess of his zeal, too +ready to sacrifice everything to the purposes he never for an instant +allowed to drop out of his sight. We may even, with some of his critics, +protest that he was not a man of powerful intellect; that his views of +people and things were distressingly narrow; that, after his kind, he +was extremely superstitious; that he was despotic in his dealings +with his converts, and stiffnecked in his relations with the civil and +military authorities. For all this is doubtless true. But all this +must not prevent us from seeing him as he actually was--charitable, +large-hearted, energetic, indomitable; in all respects a remarkable, in +many ways, a really wise and great man. At whatever points he may fall +short of our criteria, this much must be said of him, that he was fired +throughout with the high spirit of his vocation, that he was punctual in +the performance of duty as he understood it, that he was obedient to +the most rigorous dictates of that Gospel which he had set himself to +preach. In absolute, single-hearted, unflinching, and tireless devotion +to the task of his life--the salvation of heathen souls--he spent +himself freely and cheerfully, a true follower of that noblest and most +engaging of the mediaeval saints, whose law he had laid upon himself, +and whom he looked up to as his guide and examplar. Let us place him +where he belongs--among the transcendent apostolic figures of his own +church; for thus alone shall we do justice to his personality, his +objects, his career. The memory of such a man will survive all changes +in creeds and ideals; and the great state, of which he was the first +pioneer, will do honour to herself in honouring him. + + + + +VIII. + + +After Junipero's death the supervision of the missions devolved for a +time upon Palou, under whose management, owing to difficulties with the +civil powers, no new foundations were undertaken, though satisfactory +progress was made in those already existing. In 1786, Palou was +appointed head of the College of San Fernando, and his place as mission +president was filled by Father Firmin Francisco de Lasuen, by whom the +mission of Santa Barbara was dedicated, on the festival day of that +virgin-martyr, before the close of the year [6]. Just twelve months +later, the third channel settlement was started, with the performance +of the usual rites, on the spot fixed for the Mission of La Purisima +Concepcion, at the western extremity of the bay; though some months +passed before real work there was begun. Thus the proposed scheme, +elaborated before Junipero's death, for the occupation of that portion +of the coast, was at length successfully carried out. + +Hardly had this been accomplished before the viceroy and governor, +having resolved upon a further extension of the mission system, sent +orders to Father Lasuen to proceed with two fresh settlements, one of +which was to be dedicated to the Holy Cross, the other to Our Lady +of Solitude. Time was, as usual, consumed in making the necessary +preparations, and the two missions were finally founded within a few +weeks of each other--on the 28th of August and the 9th of October, 1791, +respectively. The site selected for the Mission of Santa Cruz was in the +neighborhood already known by that name, and near the San Lorenzo River; +that of Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, on the west side of the Salinas +River, in the vicinity of the present town of Soledad, and about thirty +miles from Monterey. + +A glance at the map of California will help us to understand the policy +which had dictated the creation of the four missions founded since +Junipero's death. The enormous stretch of country between San Francisco +and San Diego, the northern and southern extremes of evangelical +enterprise, was as yet quite insufficiently occupied, and these new +settlements had been started with the object of to some extent filling +up the vast vacant spaces still left among those already existing. For +the efficient performance of missionary work something more was needed +than a number of separate establishments, no matter how well managed +and successful these in themselves might be. Systematic organization was +essential; for this it was requisite that the various missions should +be brought, by proximity, into vital relations with one another, that +communication might be kept up, companionship enjoyed, and, in case of +need, advice given and assistance rendered. The foundations of Santa +Barbara, La Purisima, Santa Cruz and Soledad, had done something, as +will be seen, towards the ultimate drawing together of the scattered +outposts of church and civilization. But with them a beginning had only +been made. Further developments of the same general plan which aimed, it +will be understood, not alone at the spiritual conquest, but also at the +proper control of the new kingdom--were now taken under consideration. +And, as a result, five fresh missions were presently resolved upon. One +of these was to be situated between San Francisco and Santa Clara; the +second, between Santa Clara and Monterey; the third, between San Antonio +and San Luis Obispo; the fourth, between San Buenaventura and San +Gabriel; and the fifth, between San Juan Capistrano and San Diego. The +importance of these proposed settlements as connecting links will be at +once apparent, if we observe that by reason of their carefully chosen +locations they served, as it were, to put the older missions into actual +touch. When at length the preliminary arrangements had been made, no +time was wasted in the carrying out of the programme, and in a little +over a year, all five missions were in operation. The mission San +Jose (a rather tardy recognition to the patron-saint of the whole +undertaking), was founded on the 11th June, 1797; San Juan Bautista +thirteen days later; San Miguel Arcangel on the 25th July, and San +Fernando Rey de Espana on the 8th September of the same year; and San +Luis Rey de Francia (commonly called San Luis Rey to distinguish it from +San Luis Obispo), on the 13th of the July following. The delay which +had not at all been anticipated in the establishment of this last-named +mission, was due to some difficulties in regard to site. With this +ended--so far as fresh foundations were concerned--the pious labours +of Lasuen as padre-presidente. He now returned to San Carlos to devote +himself during the remainder of his life to the arduous duties +of supervision and administration. There he died, in 1803, aged +eighty-three years. + +His successor, Father Estevan Tapis, fourth president of the Upper +California missions, signalized his elevation to office by adding a +nineteenth to the establishments under his charge. Founded on the +17th September, 1804, on a spot, eighteen miles from La Purisima and +twenty-two from Santa Barbara, to which Lasuen had already directed +attention, this was dedicated to the virgin-martyr, Santa Inez. It was +felt that a settlement somewhere in this region was still needed for the +completion of the mission system, since without it, a gap was left in +the line between the two missions first-named, which were some forty +miles apart. With the planting of Santa Inez thorough spiritual +occupation may be said to have been accomplished over the entire area +between San Francisco and San Diego, and from the Coast Range to the +ocean. The nineteen missions had been so distributed over the vast +country, that the Indians scattered through it could everywhere be +reached; while the distance from mission to mission had, at the same +time, been so reduced that it was in no case too great to be easily +covered in a single day's journey. The fathers of each establishment +could thus hold frequent intercourse with their next neighbors, and +occasional travelers moving to and fro on business could from day to day +be certain of finding a place for refreshment and repose [7]. + + + + +IX. + + +Santa Inez carries us for the first time over into the nineteenth +century, and its establishment may in a sense be regarded as marking the +term of the period of expansion in California mission history. A pause +of more than a decade ensued, during which no effort was made towards +the further spread of the general system; and then, with the planting +of two relatively unimportant settlements in a district thentofore +unoccupied the tally was brought to a close. + +The missions which thus represented a slight and temporary revival of +the old spirit of enterprise, were those of San Rafael Arcangel and San +Francisco Solano. The former, located near Mount Tamalpais, between San +Francisco de Assis and the Russian military station at Fort Ross, dates +from the 17th December, 1817; the latter, situated still further north, +in the Sonoma Valley, from the 4th July, 1823. Some little uncertainty +exists as to the true reasons and purposes of their foundation. The +commonly accepted version of the story connects them directly with +problems which arose out of the course of affairs at San Francisco. In +1817 a most serious epidemic caused great mortality among the Indians +there; a panic seemed inevitable; and on the advice of Lieutenant Sola, +a number of the sick neophytes were removed by the padres to the other +side of the bay. The change of climate proved highly beneficial; +the region of Mount Tamalpais was found singularly attractive; and a +decision to start a branch establishment, or asistencia, of the mission +at San Francisco was a natural result. The patronage of San Rafael was +selected in the hope that, as the name itself expresses the "healing of +God," that "most glorious prince" might be induced to care "for bodies +as well as souls." While considerable success attended this new venture, +the condition of things at San Francisco, on the other hand, continued +anything but satisfactory; and a proposal based on these two facts was +presently made, that the old mission should be removed entirely from the +peninsula, and refounded in a more favorable locality somewhere in the +healthy and fertile country beyond San Rafael. It was thus that the name +of San Francisco got attached from the outset to the new settlement at +Sonoma; and when later on (the old mission being left in its place) this +was made into an independent mission, the name was retained, though the +dedication was transferred, appropriately enough, from St. Francis of +Assisi to that other St. Francis who figures in the records as "the +great apostle of the Indies." + +Such is the simpler explanation of the way in which the last two +missions came to be established. It has, however, been suggested that, +while all this may be true as far as it goes, other causes were at work +of a subtler character than those specified, and that these causes were +involved in the development of political affairs. It will have been +noted that, though the threatened encroachments of the Russians had been +one of the chief reasons for this Spanish occupation of Alta California, +there had hitherto been no attempt to meet their possible advances in +the very regions where they were most to be expected--that is, in the +country north of San Francisco. In course of time, however, always with +the ostensible purpose of hunting the seal and the otter, the Russians +were found to be creeping further and further south; and at length, +under instructions from St. Petersburg, they took possession of the +region of Bodega Bay, establishing there a trading post of their Fur +Company, and a strong military station which they called Fort Ross. As +this settlement was on the coast, and only sixty-five miles, as the crow +flies, from San Francisco, it will be seen that the Spanish authorities +had some genuine cause for alarm. And the mission movement north of San +Francisco is considered by some writers to have been initiated, less +from spiritual motives, than from the dread of continued Russian +aggression, and the hope of raising at least a slight barrier against +it. However this may be, the two missions were never employed for +defensive purposes; nor is it very clear that they could have been made +of much practical service in case of actual need. + + + + +X. + + +Such, in briefest outline, is the story of the planting of the +twenty-one missions of Alta California. This story, as we have seen, +brings us down to the year 1823. But by this time, as we follow the +chronicles, our attention has already begun to be diverted from the +forces which still made for growth and success to those which ere long +were to co-operate for the complete undoing of the mission system and +the ruin of all its work. + +Perhaps it was in the nature of things (if one may venture here to +employ a phrase too often used out of mere idleness or ignorance) that +the undertaking which year by year had been carried forward with so much +energy and success, should after a while come to a standstill; and +the commonest observation of life will suffice to remind us that when +progress ceases, retrogression is almost certain to set in. The immense +zeal and unflagging enthusiasm of Junipero Serra and his immediate +followers could not be transmitted by any rite or formula to the men +upon whose shoulders their responsibilities came presently to rest. +Men they were, of course, of widely varying characters and +capabilities--some, unfortunately, altogether unworthy both morally +and mentally, of their high calling; many, on the contrary, genuine +embodiments of the great principles of their order--humane, benevolent, +faithful in the discharge of daily duty, patient alike in labour and +trial, and careful administrators of the practical affairs which lay +within their charge. But without injustice it may be said of them that +for the most part they possessed little of the tremendous personal force +of their predecessors, and a generous endowment of such personal force +was as needful now as it ever had been. + +Not unless we wish to emulate Southey's learned friend, who wrote whole +volumes of hypothetical history in the subjunctive mood, it is hardly +necessary for present purposes to discuss the internal changes which, +had the missions been left to themselves, might in the long run have +brought about their decay. For as a matter of fact the missions were not +left to themselves. The closing chapter of their history, to which +we have now to turn, is mainly concerned, not with their spiritual +management, or with their success or failure in the work they had been +given to do, but with the general movement of political events, and the +upheavals which preceded the final conquest of California by the United +States. + +In considering the attitude of the civil authorities towards the mission +system, and their dealings with it, we must remember that the Spanish +government had from the first anticipated the gradual transformation of +the missions into pueblos and parishes, and with this, the substitution +of the regular clergy for the Franciscan padres. This was part of the +general plan of colonization, of which the mission settlements were +regarded as forming only the beginning. Their work was to bring the +heathen into the fold of the church, to subdue them to the conditions of +civilization, to instruct them in the arts of peace, and thus to prepare +them for citizenship; and this done, it was purposed that they should +be straightway removed from the charge of the fathers and placed under +civil jurisdiction. No decisive step towards the accomplishment of this +design was, however, taken for many years; and meanwhile, the fathers +jealously resisted every effort of the government to interfere with +their prerogatives. At length, with little comprehension of the nature +of the materials out of which citizens were thus to be manufactured, and +with quite as little realization of the fact that the paternal methods +of education adopted by the padres were calculated, not to train their +neophytes to self-government, but to keep them in a state of perpetual +tutelage, the Spanish Cortes decreed that all missions which had then +been in existence ten years should at once be turned over to bishops, +and the Indians attached to them made subject to civil authority. Though +promulgated in 1813, this decree was not published in California till +1820, and even then was practically a dead letter. Two years later, +California became a province of the Mexican Empire, and in due course +the new government turned its attention to the missions, in 1833 +ordering their complete secularization. The atrocious mishandling by +both Spain and Mexico of the funds by which they had been kept up, and +the large demands made later upon them for provisions and money, had +by this time made serious inroads upon their resources; notwithstanding +which they had faithfully persisted in their work. The new law now dealt +them a crushing blow. Ten years of great confusion followed, and then an +effort was made to save them from the complete ruin by which they were +threatened by a proclamation ordering that the more important of them, +twelve in number, should be restored to the padres. Nothing came of +this, however; the collapse continued; and in 1846, the sale of the +mission buildings was decreed by the Departmental Assembly. When in +the August of that year, the American flag was unfurled at Monterey, +everything connected with the missions--their lands, their priests, +their neophytes, their management--was in a state of seemingly hopeless +chaos. Finally General Kearney issued a declaration to the effect that +"the missions and their property should remain under the charge of the +Catholic priests... until the titles to the lands should be decided by +proper authority." But of whatever temporary service this measure may +have been, it was of course altogether powerless to breathe fresh life +into a system already in the last stages of decay. The mission-buildings +were crumbling into ruins. Their lands were neglected; their converts +for the most part dead or scattered. The rule of the padres was over. +The Spanish missions in Alta California were things of the past. + +In these late days of a civilization so different in all its essential +elements from that which the Franciscans laboured so strenuously to +establish on the Pacific Coast, we may think of the fathers as we will, +and pass what judgment we see fit upon their work. But be that what it +may, our hearts cannot fail to be touched and stirred by the pitiful +story of those true servants of God who, in the hour of ultimate +disaster, firmly refused to be separated from their flocks. + +Among the ruins of San Luis Obispo, in 1842, De Mofras found the oldest +Spanish priest then left in California, who, after sixty years of +unremitting toil, was then reduced to such abject poverty that he was +forced to sleep on a hide, drink from a horn, and feed upon strips of +meat dried in the sun. Yet this faithful creature still continued to +share the little he possessed with the children of the few Indians who +lingered in the huts about the deserted church; and when efforts were +made to induce him to seek some other spot where he might find refuge +and rest, his answer was that he meant to die at his post. The same +writer has recorded an even more tragic case from the annals of La +Soledad. Long after the settlement there had been abandoned, and when +the buildings were falling to pieces, an old priest, Father Sarria, +still remained to minister to the bodily and physical wants of a handful +of wretched natives who yet haunted the neighborhood, and whom he +absolutely refused to forsake. One Sunday morning in August, 1833, +after his habit, he gathered his neophytes together in what was once the +church, and began, according to his custom, the celebration of the mass. +But age, suffering, and privation had by this time told fatally upon +him. Hardly had he commenced the service, when his strength gave way. He +stumbled upon the crumbling altar, and died, literally of starvation, in +the arms of those to whom for thirty years he had given freely whatever +he had to give. Surely these simple records of Christ-like devotion will +live in the tender remembrance of all who revere the faith that, linked +with whatever creed, manifests itself in good works, the love that +spends itself in service, the quiet heroism that endures to the end. + + + + +XI. + + +The California missions, though greatly varying of course in regard to +size and economy, were constructed upon the same general plan, in the +striking and beautiful style of architecture, roughly known as Moorish, +which the fathers transplanted from Spain, but which rather seems by +reason of its singular appropriateness, a native growth of the new +soil. The edifices which now, whether in ruins or in restoration, still +testify to the skill and energy of their pious designers, were in all +cases later, in most cases much later, than the settlements themselves. +At the outset, a few rude buildings of wood or adobe were deemed +sufficient for the temporary accommodation of priests and converts, +and the celebration of religious services. Then, little by little, +substantial structures in brick or stone took the place of these, and +what we now think of as the mission came into being. + +The best account left us of the mission establishment in its palmy +days is that given by De Mofras in his careful record of travel and +exploration along the Pacific Coast; and often quoted as this has been, +we still cannot do better here than to translate some portions of it +anew. The observant Frenchman wrote with his eye mainly upon what was +perhaps the most completely typical of all the missions--that of San +Luis Rey. But his description, though containing a number of merely +local particulars, was intended to be general; and for this reason may +the more properly be reproduced in this place. + +"The edifice," he wrote, "is quadrilateral, and about one hundred and +fifty metres long in front. The church occupies one of the wings. The +facade is ornamented with a gallery [or arcade]. The building, a single +storey in height, is generally raised some feet above the ground. The +interior forms a court, adorned with flowers and planted with trees. +Opening on the gallery which runs round it are the rooms of the monks, +majordomos, and travelers, as well as the workshops, schoolrooms, and +storehouses. Hospitals for men and women are situated in the quietest +parts of the mission, where also are placed the schoolrooms. The young +Indian girls occupy apartments called the monastery (el moujerio), and +they themselves are styled nuns (las moujas)... Placed under the care of +trustworthy Indian women, they are there taught to spin wool, flax, and +cotton, and do no leave their seclusion till they are old enough to be +married. The Indian children attend the same school as the children of +the white colonists. A certain number of them, chosen from those who +exhibit most intelligence, are taught music--plain-chant, violin, +flute, horn, violincello, and other instruments. Those who distinguish +themselves in the carpenter's shop, at the forge, or in the field, are +termed alcaldes, or chiefs, and given charge of a band of workmen. The +management of each mission is composed of two monks; the elder looks +after internal administration and religious instruction; the younger +has direction of agricultural work... For the sake of order and morals, +whites are employed only where strictly necessary, for the fathers know +their influence to be altogether harmful, and that they lead the Indians +to gambling and drunkenness, to which vices they are already too prone. +To encourage the natives in their tasks, the fathers themselves often +lend a hand, and everywhere furnish an example of industry. Necessity +has made them industrious. One is struck with astonishment on observing +that, with such meagre resources, often without European workmen or +any skilled help, but with the assistance only of savages, always +unintelligent and often hostile, they have yet succeeded in executing +such works of architecture and engineering as mills, machinery, bridges, +roads, and canals for irrigation. For the erection of nearly all the +mission buildings it was necessary to bring to the sites chosen, beams +cut on mountains eight or ten leagues away, and to teach the Indians to +burn lime, cut stone, and make bricks. + +"Around the mission," De Mofras continues, "are the huts of the +neophytes, and the dwellings of some white colonists. Besides the +central establishment, there exists, for a space of thirty or forty +leagues, accessory farms to the number of fifteen or twenty, and branch +chapels (chapelles succursales). Opposite the mission is a guard-house +for an escort, composed of four cavalry soldiers and a sergeant. These +act as messengers, carrying orders from one mission to another, and in +the earlier days of conquest repelled the savages who would sometimes +attack the settlement." + +Of the daily life and routine of a mission, accounts of travelers enable +us to form a pretty vivid picture; and though doubtless changes of +detail might be marked in passing from place to place, the larger and +more essential features would be found common to all the establishments. + +At sunrise the little community was already astir, and then the Angelus +summoned all to the church, where mass was said, and a short time given +to the religious instruction of the neophytes. Breakfast followed, +composed mainly of the staple dish atole, or pottage of roasted +barley. This finished, the Indians repaired in squads, each under the +supervision of its alcalde, to their various tasks in workshop and +field. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, a wholesome and sufficiently +generous midday meal was served out. At two, work was resumed. An hour +or so before sunset, the bell again tolled for the Angelus; evening +mass was performed; and after supper had been eaten, the day closed with +dance, or music, or some simple games of chance. Thus week by week, +and month by month, with monotonous regularity, life ran its unbroken +course; and what with the labours directly connected with the +management of the mission itself, the tending of sheep and cattle in the +neighboring ranches, and the care of the gardens and orchards upon which +the population was largely dependent for subsistence, there was plenty +to occupy the attention of the padres, and quite enough work to be done +by the Indians under their charge. But all this does not exhaust the +list of mission activities. For in course of time, as existence became +more settled, and the children of the early converts shot up into +boys and girls, various industries were added to such first necessary +occupations, and the natives were taught to work at the forge and the +bench, to make saddles and shoes, to weave, and cut, and sew. In these +and similar acts, many of them acquired considerable proficiency. + +It is pleasant enough to look back upon such a busy yet placid life. +But while we may justly acknowledge its antique, pastoral charm, we must +guard ourselves against the temptation to idealization. Beautiful in +many respects it must have been; but its shadows were long and deep. +According to the first principles adopted by the missionaries, the +domesticated Indians were held down rigorously in a condition of +servile dependence and subjection. They were indeed, as one of the early +travelers in California put it, slaves under another name--slaves to +the cast-iron power of a system which, like all systems, was capable of +unlimited abuse, and which, at the very best, was narrow and arbitrary. +Every vestige of freedom was taken from them when they entered, or were +brought into, the settlement. Henceforth they belonged, body and soul, +to the mission and its authority. Their tasks were assigned to them, +their movements controlled, the details of their daily doings dictated, +by those who were to all intents and purposes their absolute masters; +and corporal punishment was visited freely not only upon those who were +guilty of actual misdemeanor, but also upon such as failed in attendance +at church, or, when there, did not conduct themselves properly. From +time to time some unusually turbulent spirit would rise against such +paternal despotism, and break away to his old savage life. But these +cases, we are told, were of rare occurrence. The California Indians were +for the most part indolent, apathetic, and of low intelligence; and as, +under domestication, they were clothed, housed and fed, while the labour +demanded from them was rarely excessive, they were wont as a rule to +accept the change from the hardships of their former rough existence to +the comparative comfort of the mission, if not exactly in a spirit of +gratitude, at any rate with a certain brutal contentment. + + + + +XII. + + +It does not fall within the scope of this little sketch, in which +nothing more has been aimed at than to tell an interesting story in the +simplest possible way, to enter into any discussion of a question +to which what has just been said might naturally seem to lead--the +question, namely, of the results, immediate and remote, of the mission +system in California. The widely divergent conclusions on this subject +registered by the historians will, on investigation, be found, as +in most such cases, to depend quite as much upon bias of mind and +preconceived ideals, as upon the bare facts presented, concerning which, +one would imagine, there can hardly be much difference of opinion. To +decide upon the value of a given social experiment, we must, to begin +with, wake up our minds as to what we should wish to see achieved; and +where there is no unanimity concerning the object to be reached, there +will scarcely be any in respect of the means employed. It is not to +be wondered at, therefore, that critical judgment upon the Franciscan +missionaries and their work has been given here in terms of unqualified +laudation, and there in the form of severest disapproval, and that +everyone who touches the topic afresh is expected to take sides. In +their favor it must, I think, be universally admitted that they wrought +always with the highest motives and the noblest intentions, and that +their labours were really fruitful of much good among the native +tribes. On the other hand, when regarded from the standpoint of secular +progress, it seems equally certain that their work was sadly hampered +by narrowness of outlook and understanding, and an utter want of +appreciation of the demands and conditions of the modern world. Thus +while we give them the fullest credit for all that they accomplished by +their teachings and example, we have still frankly to acknowledge +their failure in the most important and most difficult part of their +undertaking--in the task of transforming many thousands of ignorant and +degraded savages into self-respecting men and women, fit for the duties +and responsibilities of civilization. Yet to put it in this way is to +show sharply enough that such failure is not hastily to be set down to +their discredit. It is often said, indeed, that they went altogether the +wrong way to work for the achievement of the much-desired result; and +it is unquestionably true, as La Perouse long ago pointed out, that they +made the fundamental, but with them inevitable mistake, of sacrificing +the temporal and material welfare of the natives to the consideration of +so-called "heavenly interests." Yet in common fairness we must remember +the stuff with which they had to deal. The Indian was by nature a child +and a slave; and if, out of children and slaves they did not at once +manufacture independent and law-abiding citizens, is it for us, who have +not yet exhibited triumphant success in handling the same problem under +far more favorable conditions, to cover them with our contempt, or +dismiss them with our blame? Civilization is at best a slow and painful +affair, as we half-civilized people ought surely to understand by this +time--a matter not of individuals and years, but of generations and +centuries; and nothing permanent has ever yet been gained by any +attempt, how promising soever it may have seemed, to force the natural +processes of social evolution. The mission padres bore the cross from +point to point along the far-off Pacific coast; they built churches, +they founded settlements, they gave their strength to the uplifting of +the heathen. Little that was enduring came out of all this toil. Perhaps +this was partly because their methods were shortsighted, their means +inadequate to the ends proposed. But when we remember that they had set +their hands to an almost impossible task, we shall perhaps be inclined +rather to acknowledge their partial success, than to deal harshly with +them on the score of their manifest failure. + +Be all this as it may, however, the missions of California passed away, +leaving practically nothing behind them but a memory. Yet this is surely +a memory to be cherished by all who feel a pious reverence for the past, +and whose hearts are responsive to the sense of tears that there is in +mortal things. And alike for those who live beneath the blue skies of +California, and for those who wander awhile as visitors among her +scenes of wonder and enchantment, the old mission buildings will ever +be objects of curious and unique interest. Survivals from a by-gone era, +embodiments not only of the purposes of their founders, but of the faith +which built the great cathedrals of Europe, they stand pathetic figures +in a world to which they do not seem to belong. In the noise and bustle +of the civilization which is taking possession of what was once their +territory, they have no share. The life about them looks towards the +future. They point mutely to the past. A tender sentiment clings +about them; in their hushed enclosures we breathe a drowsy old-world +atmosphere of peace; to linger within their walls, to muse in their +graveyards, is to step out of the noisy present into the silence of +departed years. In a land where everything is of yesterday, and whose +marvellous natural beauties are but rarely touched with the associations +of history or charms of romance, these things have a subtle and peculiar +power--a magic not to be resisted by any one who turns aside for an hour +or two from the highways of the modern world, to dream among the scenes +where the old padres toiled and died. And as in imagination he there +calls up the ghostly figures of neophyte and soldier and priest, now +busy with the day's task-work, now kneeling at twilight mass in the +dimly-lighted chapel; as the murmur of strange voices and the faint +music of bell and chant steal in upon his ears; he will hardly fail +to realize that, however much or little the Franciscan missionaries +accomplished for California, they have passed down to our prosaic +after-generation a legacy of poetry, whereof the sweetness will not soon +die away. + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[Footnote 1: In the sequel, it may here be noted, the Franciscans +ceded Baja California to the Dominicans, keeping Alta California to +themselves.] + +[Footnote 2: The mission was transferred in 1874 from the location +selected by Junipero to a site some two miles distant, up the river.] + +[Footnote 3: The Diary, furnishing a detailed itinerary of the +expedition, is given in full in Palou's noticias de la Nueva +California.] + +[Footnote 4: This is now colloquially known as the Mission Dolores. +Its proper title is, however, Mission of San Francisco de Assis. It +originally stood on the Laguna de los Dolores (now filled up); and hence +its popular name.] + +[Footnote 5: The site originally chosen lay too low, and from the outset +danger of inundation was foreseen. A flood occurred in 1779, and in 1784 +the mission was removed to higher ground. The present buildings date +from 1825-26.] + +[Footnote 6: The original adobe church was injured by earthquakes in +1806 and 1812. The present edifice was begun in 1815 and finished in +1820.] + +[Footnote 7: The table given by the French traveler, De Mofras, in his +authoritative Exploration du Territoire de L'Oregon, les Californies, +etc., shows us that the distance between mission and mission nowhere +exceeded nineteen leagues, and that it was often very much less.] + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Famous Missions of California, by +William Henry Hudson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FAMOUS MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA *** + +***** This file should be named 5211.txt or 5211.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/5/2/1/5211/ + +Produced by David Schwan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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