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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: How to Make Draperies
-       Singer Sewing Library, No. 102
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: September 24, 2020 [EBook #63282]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-                                                                    29^c
-
-
-
-
-                              How to Make
-                               Draperies
-
-
-  _Instructions for_
-    • Fabrics
-    • Color
-    • Design
-    • Measurements
-    • Construction
-
-                             _Published by_
-                           THE SINGER COMPANY
-
-                              Book No. 102
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-    [Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library]
-
-
-
-
-                              How to Make
-                               Draperies
-
-
-  CONTENTS                                                        _page_
-  _Fabrics_                                                          _3_
-  _Color and Design_                                                 _7_
-  _Selection of Needles and Thread_                                  _8_
-  _Window Measurements_                                             _11_
-  _Construction Details_                                            _15_
-  _Measuring for Pleats_                                            _26_
-
-                                 _Copyright© 1960 by The Singer Company_
-
-  _Copyright under International Copyright Union • All Rights Reserved
-under Inter-America Copyright Union • No part of this book may be
-reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission._
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-
-
-                               _Fabrics_
-
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-Drapery fabrics are available to us today in an overwhelming variety for
-every decor—not only in the traditional fabrics, but also in the many
-new synthetics and blends.
-
-Whether the room is traditional, modern, formal or informal, you need
-only visit the drapery fabric department to realize what a wide choice
-of fabrics are available in either group.
-
-Windows are so much a part of the background that the fabric chosen, its
-texture, color and line, and the design of the curtains, draperies and
-slip covers must be in keeping with the atmosphere of the room and
-contribute to the over-all effect.
-
-For the very formal treatment, you’ll want to choose something in the
-Damask designs, taffetas, moires, brocades, satins, brocatelles or the
-many blends of the pure and man-made fibers, some with metallic threads
-woven in. Fringes and tassels are used as trims, and the window
-treatment would include draped valances, swags, cascades, elaborate
-cornices, tie-backs, etc.
-
-For the less formal or informal room, the choice of fabric is even
-wider—linens in medium and sheer weights, prints and lacey patterns,
-marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished
-cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste and many blends of synthetics,
-such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. The curtain treatment should be
-simple. If valances are used, they should be plain with straight lines.
-
-Many of the new synthetic fibers are a real advantage to the home-maker
-because of their easy washing and quick drying properties. Some require
-very little pressing, if any.
-
-In estimating the yardage required, consider the length of the drapery,
-before finishing hems and heading, and the width of the window or space
-to be covered. An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made
-for fullness. When using sheer fabrics, draperies should be full enough
-to hang in easy, graceful folds. Over-curtains or draperies of medium
-weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width. Also, if
-you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should
-be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance.
-
-_For example:_ The window is 64″ wide which requires 4 widths of 48″
-wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards
-long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required
-would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, you must
-allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design.
-
-Consider the width of the fabric when figuring the number of widths for
-fullness. Some fabrics are only 36″ wide—chintz and some polished
-cottons, for example. Others may run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in width;
-but the average is about 48″ wide.
-
-    [Illustration: Grain lines of fabric.]
-
-  ⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒
-  ⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒
-  ⇐True Bias⇒
-
-Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the
-fabric so that when hung, they fall straight from the rod in even,
-graceful folds.
-
-In weaving, yarns are threaded lengthwise on a loom which form the warp
-of the fabric. Another yarn is interlaced back and forth crosswise and
-is called the weft or filling thread. This is known as the plain weave.
-Linen, voile, chintz, etc., are a few of the plain woven fabrics. There
-are variations of the plain weave, such as the pile weave, with
-velveteen and corduroy as examples. The basket weave is another, with
-Monk’s cloth as an example. The diagonal line halfway between the
-lengthwise and crosswise threads is the bias of the fabric.
-
-The twill weave is perhaps one of the most durable. The filling yarn
-forms a diagonal line, passing over one warp yarn and under two or more.
-Denim, drill cloth and ticking are examples of this weave.
-
-The satin weave is an irregular weave where one yarn passes over several
-yarns of the other set before interweaving, forming a floating, lustrous
-surface.
-
-Weaves are used in combinations to obtain the various patterns in
-Damasks, brocades, Jacquards, etc.
-
-    [Illustration: Cutting on true crosswise grain.]
-
-The yarns made from the different fibers—the natural, man-made and
-blended fibers—are of various sizes, weights, smoothness and fuzziness.
-The type of yarns used in the different weaves influences the texture of
-the fabric as well as its weight, lustre and durability.
-
-When cutting drapery lengths, be sure to start with a true crosswise
-grain. Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the
-selvage before you tear the fabric. Linens, loosely woven and nubby
-fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To
-straighten these, it is necessary to pull a thread crosswise and cut on
-pulled line.
-
-After cutting lengths, check to see if the ends of the fabric are
-square. If not, square the crosswise edge by pulling the low corner on a
-true bias from opposite side of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the
-fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier.
-
-
-                          ESTIMATE OF YARDAGE
-
-  DRAPERIES
-     _Full Length Window—48″ Material_           6           YARDS
-     _Full Length Window with Valance_           6½            ″
-  LINING—_Full Length Window_                    5¼            ″
-
-  These figures are the approximate requirements. Always, where
-  possible, take careful measurements for more accurate estimate. It is
-  much better to have extra material than not enough.
-
-  When using materials with a large floral pattern or plaid, allow one
-  full length of the motif for each additional length required for
-  draperies.
-
-
-
-
-                           _Color and Design_
-
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-Color has a language all its own—It expresses, it soothes, it
-stimulates, it creates; it can give you a lift. And color as a home
-decorator can be made to work like magic. With color, the dullest rooms
-can be made to sparkle with warmth and good cheer. Any color scheme is
-good as long as it is balanced and it pleases you. A number of colors,
-tints and shades may be used in one room, but one color should be
-dominant and it should be used in different areas of the room. The
-second color should be subordinate, not of the same value. Then a third
-color may be used for accent or contrast. The neutral colors: gray,
-white and black, are good background or accent colors.
-
-Do not overlook the possibilities of accessories, such as pillows,
-vases, china, lamps and books to supply an accent color to complete your
-color scheme.
-
-Your color scheme may be taken from a favorite picture, a family
-heirloom or may express the interests and personalities of the family.
-Consider also the location of the room—East, West, North or South—and
-how the light enters the room.
-
-There are three primary colors—red, yellow and blue. These colors are
-mixed to obtain secondary colors. For example, red and yellow produce
-the color orange; red and blue, the color violet and blue and yellow,
-the color green. By blending these six colors we complete the color
-wheel which is made up of red, red orange, orange, yellow, yellow green,
-green, blue green, blue, blue violet and violet.
-
-We refer to certain colors as warm, others as cool and still others as
-neither warm nor cool. The warm colors are red, yellow and orange. The
-cool colors are the blues. Green is neither warm nor cool but if mixed
-with yellow, it becomes warm; when mixed with blue, it becomes a cool
-color.
-
-Color and line apparently change the size of the room. Cool, light
-colors and vertical lines make walls appear higher and the room larger,
-while warm colors and horizontal lines seem to lower the ceiling and
-draw the walls nearer.
-
-For North and East rooms, use warm colors. If little light enters in,
-use light shades of the warm colors. Use the cool colors in rooms with
-South or West exposures.
-
-When purchasing your fabrics for curtains, draperies and slip covers,
-keep in mind the overall effect. Consider the room exposure, light, size
-of room, furniture arrangement and what color and design will do to
-create a room you will always enjoy. Since windows are a very important
-part of the room as a unit, the fabric chosen for curtains or draperies
-should also be used to slip cover a sofa or chair, a dressing table
-cover, or a dust ruffle for the bed.
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-_Selection of Needles and Thread_
-
-Sewing thread should blend as nearly as possible with the fabric in
-color, fiber and size. Silk and wool fabrics are stitched with silk
-thread. Cottons, linens and some blended fabrics are stitched with
-cotton thread or mercerized thread. The synthetic fabrics and blends of
-the pure and man-made fibers may be stitched with silk, mercerized
-cotton, nylon or Dacron (DuPont) thread. The needle is selected with
-consideration to both the thread and the fabric.
-
-With fabrics used for glass curtains and for sheer curtains, such as
-organdy, voile, “Dacron,” dotted Swiss, marquisettes, batiste and sheer
-linen, use a fine cotton thread, size 80 or 90, or a mercerized thread.
-Use a size 14 needle for mercerized thread and a size 11 for finer
-threads, including “Dacron” for “Dacron” fabrics, organdy, “Dacron,”
-marquisette, dotted Swiss, lawn, batiste and rayon lend themselves
-beautifully to the use of sewing machine attachments for ruffling,
-tucking, hemming, etc. Fiberglas stitches well and is best suited to
-straight panel type curtains with pleated headings. Use a mercerized
-thread and size 14 machine needle for Fortisan, synthetics and the many
-blends.
-
-The average machine stitch length for these fabrics should be about 12
-stitches to the inch and the tensions easy enough to prevent puckering
-the fabrics, particularly sheer fabrics, such as batiste, nylons, ninons
-and soft rayon blends.
-
-For Damask, brocades, taffetas, satins, etc., use silk or mercerized
-thread, size 14 or 11 needles of 12 to 14 stitches per inch.
-
-Heavy weight fabrics, namely, linens, cotton Damasks, sailcloth,
-ticking, denims, etc., require a heavy-duty thread, a size 16 needle and
-a 12 stitch length.
-
-For light or medium weight fabrics comparable to polished cottons,
-Chintz, linens, Glosheen, percale, antique satin and faille, use a
-mercerized thread, a size 14 needle and a 12 or 14 stitch length.
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-  RETURN
-  RETURN
-  FIXTURE
-  WIDTH
-  FLOOR LENGTH
-  FRAME
-  JAM
-  SASH
-  SILL
-  SILL LENGTH
-  APRON
-  APRON LENGTH
-  BASEBOARD
-  CLEAR RUG
-
-
-
-
-                         _Window Measurements_
-
-
-Before taking measurements, there are several points that should be
-taken into consideration: Is the window in proportion to the room? Will
-it contribute properly to the effect you wish to achieve? Do you have
-the right rods for hanging the type of drapery selected?
-
-When you are satisfied with the window, then it is time to consider the
-type of materials for draperies and decide on the type of rod required.
-
-It is a good idea to make a sketch of the room, noting the placement of
-windows and arrangement of furniture. Also take the width and height
-measurement of each window. Then visit the curtain and drapery
-department to get an idea of the type of fixtures available. At the same
-time, obtain small samples of the fabrics suited to the type of drapery
-you have in mind. Examine them in the room where they are to be used.
-Are they the right texture? Are the colors lively enough? Will they
-create the desired effect?
-
-Purchase and mount the rods for the draperies. Fixtures should be
-mounted so that draperies, when hung, will cover the window frame. Now
-you are ready to take measurements.
-
-There are three correct lengths for draperies—to the sill—to the lower
-edge of the apron—or to the floor. Full length draperies should just
-clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor.
-
-_For length_—Measure from the top of the rod down—to the sill—to the
-lower edge of apron—or to the floor.
-
-_For width_—Measure from edge to edge of window frame or from outer
-edges of fixture brackets. To this measurement add the “return” at
-either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall.
-
-
-           Estimating Yardage for Over-Curtains or Draperies
-
-The type of heading, the width of lower hem and the type of drapery;
-that is, lined, unlined or interlined, must be considered when
-estimating the yardage required. The fullness of draperies averages
-about twice the width of the space to be covered.
-
-A stiffening; such as a strip of crinoline or buckram is used at the top
-to support the pleats.
-
-_For Lined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4″ for
-hem and 3½″ for bottom hem.
-
-_Example_—If length from top of rod is 90″, add 1″ plus 4″ plus 3½″.
-This equals 98½″ for one length, or 5½ yards for the two lengths.
-
-_For Unlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4½″
-for top hem and seam, and 3½″ for lower hem. A 4″ wide strip of
-crinoline is used at the top of both lined and unlined drapes.
-
-If a double hem is used at the bottom, then add 6″ instead of 3½″ for
-hem in either lined or unlined drapes.
-
-_For Interlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 3″
-for top hem and 3″ for bottom hem.
-
-When using ready-made headings for pleats, add to the length measurement
-1½″ for heading and seam, and 3½″ for bottom hem.
-
-    [Illustration: _French Doors or Window_
-
-    The rod should be placed so that the drapery, when hung, covers the
-    glass portion of the window. Take measurement from top of upper rod
-    to lower part of lower rod. To this measurement, add 2½″ at the top
-    and 2½″ at the bottom. This allows for a 1½″ hem, top and bottom,
-    plus ¼″ seam allowance. The 1½″ hem is for a ¾″ casing and ¾″
-    heading.]
-
-  FIXTURE
-  FOR WIDTH
-  MEASURE FROM TOP AND BOTTOM OF FIXTURE
-  FIXTURE
-
-
-                            Recessed Windows
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-When draperies are hung flush with the wall, measurements are taken
-inside the recess. A spring socket type of fixture is available for this
-type of window. Always measure from the top of the rod, except for Cafe
-curtains. Usually a ring, “sew-on” or “clip-on” type is used. In this
-case, measure from lower part of circle to lower part of next section,
-or to the sill. Add depth of top finish plus hem to this measurement.
-
-    [Illustration: Oval spring socket.    Round spring socket.]
-
-
-                        Sliding Windows or Doors
-
-    [Illustration: Hook over or dual wheel design. Cord tension pulley.
-    Install on wall, baseboard or floor.]
-
-These windows are usually treated as one. Draperies, in two sections,
-are hung on a pole or traverse rod and are drawn to the center, one
-section overlapping the other about 2″. Take length measurement from top
-of rod to the floor. To this measurement, add 5½″ for heading and top
-hem and 3½″ for bottom hem. If double hems are used, add 9″ at the top
-plus 6″ for bottom hem. To the width, add 3″ at either end for return of
-curtain from fixture to wall.
-
-    [Illustration: Two-way traverse rod.]
-
-
-                            Projected Window
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-To permit ease when opening or closing the window, the fixture should
-extend a little beyond the window on either side. Use a simple fixture,
-an oval or round rod, and a draw type of drapery. If drapery is to be
-shirred on the rod, take measurement from top of rod to lower edge of
-window. To length measurement, add 2½″ for a 1½″ hem which forms the
-casing and heading, and 2¾″ to 2½″ bottom hem. If _sew-on_ or _clip-on
-rings are used, measure_ from lower circle of ring to edge of window. To
-this measurement, add depth of top and bottom hem.
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-
-                             Awning Window
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-The type of drapery determines points of measurement. With tier type
-draperies, one for each section of the window, the measurements are
-taken from top to bottom of each section. Draperies hung from the top
-extending to lower edge of window or floor are measured from top of
-fixture for length desired. Tier type or cafe sections should be long
-enough to overlap the heading of the section below. Follow same
-procedure for measuring as for projected window. These draperies should
-be full—1½ times the width for medium weight fabrics, such as Chintz,
-Glosheen, etc., to three times the width when using sheer fabrics.
-
-
-                         Methods of installing
-
-Curtain and drapery rods, brackets and valance boards should be mounted
-securely to the wall to support heavy draperies. This can be a problem
-unless you use the right screws or bolts. There is a correct screw and
-bolt available for every type of wall—brick, concrete or plaster walls.
-
-    [Illustration: PLASTER SCREW—For plaster or dry walls.]
-
-    [Illustration: PLASTIC PLUG—Use in brick wall for plug, then insert
-    screw.]
-
-    [Illustration: MOLLY BOLT—Use in plaster, brick or concrete wall.]
-
-    [Illustration: TOGGLE BOLT—Use in frame or plaster walls where there
-    is a separation between outer and inner walls.]
-
-
-
-
-                         _Construction Details_
-
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics.
-They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the
-fabric and its treatment—whether formal or informal.
-
-There are three accepted lengths for draperies—to the window sill—to the
-bottom of the window apron—or to the floor. Floor length is most
-generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often
-made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the
-rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to
-either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same
-material.
-
-When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the
-right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies
-can be taken.
-
-Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to
-length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter
-on “Fabrics” before cutting lengths for draperies.
-
-
-                           Unlined Draperies
-
-These draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light
-or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or
-pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a
-pleated heading, allow 5½″ at the top for heading and 5½″ at the bottom
-for a 2½″ double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4″
-wide and 3″ shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to
-underside of heading ½″ from the top, starting 1½″ from the edge. Stitch
-along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening
-½″ and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press
-and pin in place.
-
-Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For
-hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge ½″ to underside;
-then turn 1″ for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching.
-
-To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag
-Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting ¼″ from
-turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right
-side, exposing the ¼″ edge. Turn 2½″ double hem at the bottom and finish
-by hand or machine stitch.
-
-    [Illustration: Stitch stiffening to top of drapery.]
-
-  STIFFENING
-  1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS
-  UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
-
-    [Illustration: Finish side hem by hand, using slip-stitch.]
-
-    [Illustration: Side hem basted for blind-stitch hemming.]
-
-    [Illustration: Blind-stitch hemming, using the Zigzag Sewing
-    Machine.]
-
-    [Illustration: Double hems with corners cut out to relieve bulk.]
-
-    [Illustration: Finishing double side hems and bottom hem by hand.]
-
-If 1″ double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4″ shorter than the
-width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets
-for pleater pins, (available by the yard) allow 2″ at the top for
-heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery
-⁵/₁₆″ below edge across the top. Consider the ″return″ of the drapery at
-each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the
-turn of the rod. Stitch, taking ½″ seam; then turn heading to underside.
-Press and stitch ¼″ from the lower edge of the heading.
-
-    [Illustration: Type of hook used for forming pleats and hanging
-    draperies.]
-
-    [Illustration: RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
-    Place pleat tape at top, ⁵/₁₆″ from edge. Stitch ½″ from edge.]
-
-  1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEM
-  WRONG SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE
-
-    [Illustration: Tape turned to underside. Stitch tape to drapery at
-    lower edge. Machine stitch 1″ side hems.]
-
-  SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE
-
-
-                            Lined Draperies
-
-    [Illustration: Lining in proportion to drapery length.]
-
-  2″
-  TOP 4″ HEM
-  7″
-  LINING
-  3″
-  2″
-
-Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give
-weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A
-sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as
-the lining fabric.
-
-Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the
-crosswise and lengthwise grains.
-
-Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing
-a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on
-one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.
-
-Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the
-fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the
-crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in
-loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.
-
-To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but
-effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then
-alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle
-it. Press before seaming.
-
-Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam
-across the top and sides.
-
-Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem,
-1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and
-lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in
-figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule.
-They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the
-bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer
-or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″
-wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower
-than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review
-section on _Window Measurements_.
-
-To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin
-lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top
-of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam.
-Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched;
-then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to
-hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch
-and press.
-
-    [Illustration: Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low
-    corner.]
-
-    [Illustration: Joining lining to drapery.]
-
-  RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
-  7½″
-  LINING
-
-    [Illustration: Stiffening stitched to heading.]
-
-  STIFFENING
-  1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES
-  UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
-
-Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure
-seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and
-press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and
-within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side
-hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand;
-then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2
-or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so
-that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem
-width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside
-one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing
-first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem
-overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″
-hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is
-held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french
-tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem,
-then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket
-stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at
-end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower
-side hems.
-
-Use a _sew-on_ or _pin-on_ weight at bottom of center hems.
-
-(See illustration at top of page 22.)
-
-    [Illustration: Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.]
-
-  LINING TURNED BACK
-
-    [Illustration: Lining slip-stitched to top hem.]
-
-  LINING
-
-    [Illustration: Making a French tack.]
-
-  LINING
-
-    [Illustration: ‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights.]
-
-    [Illustration: Lined drapery with pleater tape heading.]
-
-    [Illustration: Side hems tacked to insure evenness.]
-
-When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ above
-the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section
-_Unlined Draperies_ for joining tape to heading. Join lining; then clip
-and press seams. Turn drapery to right side and pin lining to bottom of
-tape, overlapping ¼″. Stitch and press; then finish side hems above
-lining by hand.
-
-It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This
-prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using
-matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through
-the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of
-the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at
-the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a
-distance of 1″. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down
-through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up
-through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem.
-
-
-                          Drapery lined to top
-
-There are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a
-hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length
-measurement, add 1½″ at the top for heading and seam. Cut lining in
-proportion. Stitch lining and drapery lengths together, bringing edges
-even at the top. Clip seam and press open. Cut stiffening the length of
-drapery width. Pin and stitch stiffening across the top, taking ½″ seam.
-Turn drapery right side out, enclosing heading. Press top and side hems.
-Finish hems at the bottom the same as for lined draperies.
-
-    [Illustration: Joining stiffening to lining and drapery at top.]
-
-    [Illustration: Drapery turned to right side.]
-
-
-                          Interlined Draperies
-
-Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or
-when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is
-necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping
-quality and elegance of the fabric.
-
-For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut
-interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is,
-if draperies have 1½″ hems on each side and 3″ hems, top and bottom,
-then cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ shorter than drapery fabric.
-Spread material right side down.
-
-    [Illustration: Tack interlining to drapery at center and between
-    center and side hems.]
-
-  3″
-  TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER
-  INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING
-  1½″
-
-    [Illustration: Turn and baste hems—side, top, and bottom.]
-
-  UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
-  INTERLINING
-
-Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center
-of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the
-drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop.
-Space about 6″; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then
-drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold
-interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in
-the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking.
-
-    [Illustration: Catch-stitch hems to interlining.]
-
-Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and
-bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be
-catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top
-and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and
-baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½″ seam. Press seam
-as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined
-curtains and draperies.
-
-    [Illustration: Turn sides and top of lining under ½″. Pin in place,
-    slip-stitch.]
-
-When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining
-together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space
-stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom
-hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch.
-Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2″ hem,
-overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1″. Use french tacks
-between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either
-‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems.
-
-    [Illustration: When lining is machine stitched to drapery, tack seam
-    to interlining.]
-
-    [Illustration: French tacks hold drapery and lining together.]
-
-
-
-
-                         _Measuring for Pleats_
-
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the
-fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds.
-The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the
-box pleat and the cartridge pleat.
-
-Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as
-are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer
-fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the
-window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be
-taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus
-the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the
-bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center
-when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus
-these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats.
-
-The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the
-weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain.
-
-_For Example_: If one half of the width to be covered is 49″ then one
-section of the drapery would be about 144″ wide after finishing side
-hems. To width of window area (49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ for center
-overlap. This totals 53″. 144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for pleats. Allowing
-7″ for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness.
-
-Please Note—3″ for return is used as an example. The return can be 4″ or
-5″, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return.
-
-
-                            Steps to Pleats
-
-Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and
-spacings before stitching.
-
-Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the
-first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side
-2″ from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center
-between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats
-required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd
-and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin;
-then stitch from top to ¾″ below the heading, reversing the stitch at
-either end.
-
-    [Illustration: 1. Bring the markings together for pleat and pin.
-
-    2. Stitch from top to about ¾″ below heading, reversing stitch at
-    each end.
-
-    These steps are the same for all types of pleats.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Pinch Pleat_—Divide the large pleat evenly into
-    three smaller pleats; press in firmly and stitch across the three
-    folds at lower edge of heading. The Pinch pleat is a favorite finish
-    for most types of draperies and is particularly good when draperies
-    are made of a heavier fabric.]
-
-    [Illustration: _French Pleat_—At lower edge of heading, divide large
-    pleat into three smaller pleats and run needle and thread through
-    three pleats several times, drawing thread tight. Then fasten thread
-    securely underneath.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Box Pleat_—The large pleat is spread an equal
-    distance on each side of stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats
-    should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ fullness.
-
-    When figuring these pleats, try for uniformity; that is, the space
-    between each pleat (from fold to fold) should be the same as the
-    width of pleat. Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″
-    fullness.]
-
-    [Illustration: _Cartridge Pleat_—This is a round pleat left loose
-    and filled with cotton, Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The pleats
-    take up 2″ to 2½″ and are spaced from 2″ to 3″ apart for draw type
-    draperies.]
-
-    [Illustration: 1. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from traverse
-    rod.]
-
-    [Illustration: 2. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from rod with
-    rings or from traverse rod mounted against ceiling.]
-
-
-                      Doors or Windows Opening Out
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an
-interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or
-door that opens out.
-
-Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as
-Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable
-for these curtains.
-
-Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9½″ at top for seam,
-loops, and facing and 6″ for a 3″ double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the
-width of space to be covered for fullness.
-
-_Example_: If space to be covered is 52″, 3 lengths of 48″ fabric are
-required. Cut one length through center and join each half width to each
-one of the full widths. Each section measures approximately 70″. 70″
-minus 4″ for 1″ double hems and 3″ for return equals 63″. 7 pleats × 5″
-= 35″. 63″ minus 35″ = 28″ for space to be covered and center overlap.
-
-    [Illustration: 1. Measuring for pleats, spacings and loops. Pleats
-    may be wider or as narrow as desired. Spacings may vary, depending
-    on weight of material. Always consider the pleat overlap.]
-
-    [Illustration: 2. Turn top to right side 9½″. Use a stiffening or
-    stay of lawn or organdy for most light and medium weight materials.
-    Arrows indicate stitching lines.]
-
-    [Illustration: 3. Material is cut out between loops. Seams are
-    slashed diagonally at corners to line of stitching. Press. If
-    stiffening is not used as shown in sketches 1 and 2, stitch 4″ strip
-    of crinoline to hem as shown above. This lends support to pleats.]
-
-    [Illustration: 4. Turn loops right side out and hem to underside.
-    Press. Pin in pleat, stitch same as for Box pleat. Spread pleat,
-    press.]
-
-    [Illustration: 5. Fasten loops to back of pleat by hand. Anchor
-    curtains at side, top and bottom as shown page 15.]
-
-    [Illustration: Pattern for tie-back pinned to material.]
-
-    [Illustration: Tie-back stitched—Seam blended ready for turning.]
-
-
-                               Tie-Backs
-
-Fabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped
-bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The
-fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To
-estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it
-back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18″ to
-24″ and can be 2½″ or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and
-interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped
-band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3″ or 4″ wide in the
-center, tapering to 2″ or 2½″ at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric,
-lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a ⅜″ seam on all
-edges.
-
-Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of
-material—right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3″ or 4″
-for turning.
-
-Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn
-band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening.
-
-Sew small bone rings or very narrow fabric loops at ends of band. These
-loop over a hook fastened to side of window.
-
-
-                          Anchoring Draperies
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-Outside edges of draperies should hang against the wall in a straight
-taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the bottom hem. Place a cup hook in the
-wall or the baseboard in line with the hem.
-
-
-
-
-      _Meet the sewing machine with tomorrow written all over it._
-
-
-    [Illustration: uncaptioned]
-
-  _Does all 3 kinds of sewing—straight, zig-zag and chainstitch._
-  _Hundreds of zig-zag patterns built-in—just touch a button and sew._
-  _Spinning reel thread system—for smooth, even thread flow._
-  _New speed switch—set your own sewing speed, fast or slow._
-  _New built-in needle threader—ends that last little sewing worry._
-  _Push-Button Bobbin—winds right in the machine._
-  _Exclusive Slant Needle—see better, sew smoother._
-  _New 4-position throat plate lever—an extra for delicate fabrics._
-  _New buttonholer device—makes 7 kinds of buttonholes easily._
-
-_New Golden Touch & Sew_[1] _sewing machine by Singer._ Be the girl with
-the golden touch on this newest and most fabulous of our growing family
-of _Touch & Sew_ sewing machines with the Push-Button Bobbin. One of
-five new models starting at $149.95.
-
-    [Illustration: ™ SINGER]
-
-         See SINGER COMPANY in phone book for Shop nearest you.
-
-
-                         SINGER SEWING LIBRARY
-                   You’re sure to want a complete set
-
-    [Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library]
-
-Here are the newest, most informative, “how to” sewing books available
-today! Together they make up a complete dressmaking—home decorations
-library. Fully illustrated, each one covers its subject step-by-step,
-answering all your questions—in as few words as possible—almost before
-you ask them. Choose your needs from the selection of books listed
-below.
-
-  101—HOW TO MAKE CURTAINS
-  102—HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES
-  103—HOW TO MAKE VALANCES
-  104—HOW TO MAKE BEDSPREADS
-  105—HOW TO LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT
-  106—HOW TO MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT
-  107—HOW TO MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES
-  108—HOW TO MAKE SLEEVES
-  109—HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS
-  110—HOW TO MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES
-  111—HOW TO MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES
-  112—HOW TO MAKE BELTS AND HEMS
-  113—HOW TO MAKE SLIP COVERS
-  114—HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS
-  115—THINGS FOR LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW
-  116—CREATING CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS
-  117—HOW TO REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT
-  118—HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING
-  119—HOW TO MAKE APRONS
-  120—HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS
-  121—HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES
-
-Singer Sewing library Books are available at Singer Centers, variety,
-chain and department stores ... where you will also find the SINGER
-SEWING SHELF—for sewing machine parts and supplies.
-
-
-[1]A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
-
-
-                   _Cover Photograph reprinted from the BRIDE’S MAGAZINE
-                      Copyright 1957, The Condé Nast Publications, Inc._
-
-
-        Printed in the United States of America    Book No. 102
-
-
-
-
-                          Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous
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