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diff --git a/old/63282-0.txt b/old/63282-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index d945599..0000000 --- a/old/63282-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1416 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: How to Make Draperies - Singer Sewing Library, No. 102 - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: September 24, 2020 [EBook #63282] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - 29^c - - - - - How to Make - Draperies - - - _Instructions for_ - • Fabrics - • Color - • Design - • Measurements - • Construction - - _Published by_ - THE SINGER COMPANY - - Book No. 102 - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - [Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library] - - - - - How to Make - Draperies - - - CONTENTS _page_ - _Fabrics_ _3_ - _Color and Design_ _7_ - _Selection of Needles and Thread_ _8_ - _Window Measurements_ _11_ - _Construction Details_ _15_ - _Measuring for Pleats_ _26_ - - _Copyright© 1960 by The Singer Company_ - - _Copyright under International Copyright Union • All Rights Reserved -under Inter-America Copyright Union • No part of this book may be -reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission._ - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - - - _Fabrics_ - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -Drapery fabrics are available to us today in an overwhelming variety for -every decor—not only in the traditional fabrics, but also in the many -new synthetics and blends. - -Whether the room is traditional, modern, formal or informal, you need -only visit the drapery fabric department to realize what a wide choice -of fabrics are available in either group. - -Windows are so much a part of the background that the fabric chosen, its -texture, color and line, and the design of the curtains, draperies and -slip covers must be in keeping with the atmosphere of the room and -contribute to the over-all effect. - -For the very formal treatment, you’ll want to choose something in the -Damask designs, taffetas, moires, brocades, satins, brocatelles or the -many blends of the pure and man-made fibers, some with metallic threads -woven in. Fringes and tassels are used as trims, and the window -treatment would include draped valances, swags, cascades, elaborate -cornices, tie-backs, etc. - -For the less formal or informal room, the choice of fabric is even -wider—linens in medium and sheer weights, prints and lacey patterns, -marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished -cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste and many blends of synthetics, -such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. The curtain treatment should be -simple. If valances are used, they should be plain with straight lines. - -Many of the new synthetic fibers are a real advantage to the home-maker -because of their easy washing and quick drying properties. Some require -very little pressing, if any. - -In estimating the yardage required, consider the length of the drapery, -before finishing hems and heading, and the width of the window or space -to be covered. An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made -for fullness. When using sheer fabrics, draperies should be full enough -to hang in easy, graceful folds. Over-curtains or draperies of medium -weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width. Also, if -you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should -be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance. - -_For example:_ The window is 64″ wide which requires 4 widths of 48″ -wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards -long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required -would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, you must -allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design. - -Consider the width of the fabric when figuring the number of widths for -fullness. Some fabrics are only 36″ wide—chintz and some polished -cottons, for example. Others may run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in width; -but the average is about 48″ wide. - - [Illustration: Grain lines of fabric.] - - ⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒ - ⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒ - ⇐True Bias⇒ - -Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the -fabric so that when hung, they fall straight from the rod in even, -graceful folds. - -In weaving, yarns are threaded lengthwise on a loom which form the warp -of the fabric. Another yarn is interlaced back and forth crosswise and -is called the weft or filling thread. This is known as the plain weave. -Linen, voile, chintz, etc., are a few of the plain woven fabrics. There -are variations of the plain weave, such as the pile weave, with -velveteen and corduroy as examples. The basket weave is another, with -Monk’s cloth as an example. The diagonal line halfway between the -lengthwise and crosswise threads is the bias of the fabric. - -The twill weave is perhaps one of the most durable. The filling yarn -forms a diagonal line, passing over one warp yarn and under two or more. -Denim, drill cloth and ticking are examples of this weave. - -The satin weave is an irregular weave where one yarn passes over several -yarns of the other set before interweaving, forming a floating, lustrous -surface. - -Weaves are used in combinations to obtain the various patterns in -Damasks, brocades, Jacquards, etc. - - [Illustration: Cutting on true crosswise grain.] - -The yarns made from the different fibers—the natural, man-made and -blended fibers—are of various sizes, weights, smoothness and fuzziness. -The type of yarns used in the different weaves influences the texture of -the fabric as well as its weight, lustre and durability. - -When cutting drapery lengths, be sure to start with a true crosswise -grain. Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the -selvage before you tear the fabric. Linens, loosely woven and nubby -fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To -straighten these, it is necessary to pull a thread crosswise and cut on -pulled line. - -After cutting lengths, check to see if the ends of the fabric are -square. If not, square the crosswise edge by pulling the low corner on a -true bias from opposite side of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the -fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier. - - - ESTIMATE OF YARDAGE - - DRAPERIES - _Full Length Window—48″ Material_ 6 YARDS - _Full Length Window with Valance_ 6½ ″ - LINING—_Full Length Window_ 5¼ ″ - - These figures are the approximate requirements. Always, where - possible, take careful measurements for more accurate estimate. It is - much better to have extra material than not enough. - - When using materials with a large floral pattern or plaid, allow one - full length of the motif for each additional length required for - draperies. - - - - - _Color and Design_ - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -Color has a language all its own—It expresses, it soothes, it -stimulates, it creates; it can give you a lift. And color as a home -decorator can be made to work like magic. With color, the dullest rooms -can be made to sparkle with warmth and good cheer. Any color scheme is -good as long as it is balanced and it pleases you. A number of colors, -tints and shades may be used in one room, but one color should be -dominant and it should be used in different areas of the room. The -second color should be subordinate, not of the same value. Then a third -color may be used for accent or contrast. The neutral colors: gray, -white and black, are good background or accent colors. - -Do not overlook the possibilities of accessories, such as pillows, -vases, china, lamps and books to supply an accent color to complete your -color scheme. - -Your color scheme may be taken from a favorite picture, a family -heirloom or may express the interests and personalities of the family. -Consider also the location of the room—East, West, North or South—and -how the light enters the room. - -There are three primary colors—red, yellow and blue. These colors are -mixed to obtain secondary colors. For example, red and yellow produce -the color orange; red and blue, the color violet and blue and yellow, -the color green. By blending these six colors we complete the color -wheel which is made up of red, red orange, orange, yellow, yellow green, -green, blue green, blue, blue violet and violet. - -We refer to certain colors as warm, others as cool and still others as -neither warm nor cool. The warm colors are red, yellow and orange. The -cool colors are the blues. Green is neither warm nor cool but if mixed -with yellow, it becomes warm; when mixed with blue, it becomes a cool -color. - -Color and line apparently change the size of the room. Cool, light -colors and vertical lines make walls appear higher and the room larger, -while warm colors and horizontal lines seem to lower the ceiling and -draw the walls nearer. - -For North and East rooms, use warm colors. If little light enters in, -use light shades of the warm colors. Use the cool colors in rooms with -South or West exposures. - -When purchasing your fabrics for curtains, draperies and slip covers, -keep in mind the overall effect. Consider the room exposure, light, size -of room, furniture arrangement and what color and design will do to -create a room you will always enjoy. Since windows are a very important -part of the room as a unit, the fabric chosen for curtains or draperies -should also be used to slip cover a sofa or chair, a dressing table -cover, or a dust ruffle for the bed. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - -_Selection of Needles and Thread_ - -Sewing thread should blend as nearly as possible with the fabric in -color, fiber and size. Silk and wool fabrics are stitched with silk -thread. Cottons, linens and some blended fabrics are stitched with -cotton thread or mercerized thread. The synthetic fabrics and blends of -the pure and man-made fibers may be stitched with silk, mercerized -cotton, nylon or Dacron (DuPont) thread. The needle is selected with -consideration to both the thread and the fabric. - -With fabrics used for glass curtains and for sheer curtains, such as -organdy, voile, “Dacron,” dotted Swiss, marquisettes, batiste and sheer -linen, use a fine cotton thread, size 80 or 90, or a mercerized thread. -Use a size 14 needle for mercerized thread and a size 11 for finer -threads, including “Dacron” for “Dacron” fabrics, organdy, “Dacron,” -marquisette, dotted Swiss, lawn, batiste and rayon lend themselves -beautifully to the use of sewing machine attachments for ruffling, -tucking, hemming, etc. Fiberglas stitches well and is best suited to -straight panel type curtains with pleated headings. Use a mercerized -thread and size 14 machine needle for Fortisan, synthetics and the many -blends. - -The average machine stitch length for these fabrics should be about 12 -stitches to the inch and the tensions easy enough to prevent puckering -the fabrics, particularly sheer fabrics, such as batiste, nylons, ninons -and soft rayon blends. - -For Damask, brocades, taffetas, satins, etc., use silk or mercerized -thread, size 14 or 11 needles of 12 to 14 stitches per inch. - -Heavy weight fabrics, namely, linens, cotton Damasks, sailcloth, -ticking, denims, etc., require a heavy-duty thread, a size 16 needle and -a 12 stitch length. - -For light or medium weight fabrics comparable to polished cottons, -Chintz, linens, Glosheen, percale, antique satin and faille, use a -mercerized thread, a size 14 needle and a 12 or 14 stitch length. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - RETURN - RETURN - FIXTURE - WIDTH - FLOOR LENGTH - FRAME - JAM - SASH - SILL - SILL LENGTH - APRON - APRON LENGTH - BASEBOARD - CLEAR RUG - - - - - _Window Measurements_ - - -Before taking measurements, there are several points that should be -taken into consideration: Is the window in proportion to the room? Will -it contribute properly to the effect you wish to achieve? Do you have -the right rods for hanging the type of drapery selected? - -When you are satisfied with the window, then it is time to consider the -type of materials for draperies and decide on the type of rod required. - -It is a good idea to make a sketch of the room, noting the placement of -windows and arrangement of furniture. Also take the width and height -measurement of each window. Then visit the curtain and drapery -department to get an idea of the type of fixtures available. At the same -time, obtain small samples of the fabrics suited to the type of drapery -you have in mind. Examine them in the room where they are to be used. -Are they the right texture? Are the colors lively enough? Will they -create the desired effect? - -Purchase and mount the rods for the draperies. Fixtures should be -mounted so that draperies, when hung, will cover the window frame. Now -you are ready to take measurements. - -There are three correct lengths for draperies—to the sill—to the lower -edge of the apron—or to the floor. Full length draperies should just -clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor. - -_For length_—Measure from the top of the rod down—to the sill—to the -lower edge of apron—or to the floor. - -_For width_—Measure from edge to edge of window frame or from outer -edges of fixture brackets. To this measurement add the “return” at -either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall. - - - Estimating Yardage for Over-Curtains or Draperies - -The type of heading, the width of lower hem and the type of drapery; -that is, lined, unlined or interlined, must be considered when -estimating the yardage required. The fullness of draperies averages -about twice the width of the space to be covered. - -A stiffening; such as a strip of crinoline or buckram is used at the top -to support the pleats. - -_For Lined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4″ for -hem and 3½″ for bottom hem. - -_Example_—If length from top of rod is 90″, add 1″ plus 4″ plus 3½″. -This equals 98½″ for one length, or 5½ yards for the two lengths. - -_For Unlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4½″ -for top hem and seam, and 3½″ for lower hem. A 4″ wide strip of -crinoline is used at the top of both lined and unlined drapes. - -If a double hem is used at the bottom, then add 6″ instead of 3½″ for -hem in either lined or unlined drapes. - -_For Interlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 3″ -for top hem and 3″ for bottom hem. - -When using ready-made headings for pleats, add to the length measurement -1½″ for heading and seam, and 3½″ for bottom hem. - - [Illustration: _French Doors or Window_ - - The rod should be placed so that the drapery, when hung, covers the - glass portion of the window. Take measurement from top of upper rod - to lower part of lower rod. To this measurement, add 2½″ at the top - and 2½″ at the bottom. This allows for a 1½″ hem, top and bottom, - plus ¼″ seam allowance. The 1½″ hem is for a ¾″ casing and ¾″ - heading.] - - FIXTURE - FOR WIDTH - MEASURE FROM TOP AND BOTTOM OF FIXTURE - FIXTURE - - - Recessed Windows - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -When draperies are hung flush with the wall, measurements are taken -inside the recess. A spring socket type of fixture is available for this -type of window. Always measure from the top of the rod, except for Cafe -curtains. Usually a ring, “sew-on” or “clip-on” type is used. In this -case, measure from lower part of circle to lower part of next section, -or to the sill. Add depth of top finish plus hem to this measurement. - - [Illustration: Oval spring socket. Round spring socket.] - - - Sliding Windows or Doors - - [Illustration: Hook over or dual wheel design. Cord tension pulley. - Install on wall, baseboard or floor.] - -These windows are usually treated as one. Draperies, in two sections, -are hung on a pole or traverse rod and are drawn to the center, one -section overlapping the other about 2″. Take length measurement from top -of rod to the floor. To this measurement, add 5½″ for heading and top -hem and 3½″ for bottom hem. If double hems are used, add 9″ at the top -plus 6″ for bottom hem. To the width, add 3″ at either end for return of -curtain from fixture to wall. - - [Illustration: Two-way traverse rod.] - - - Projected Window - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -To permit ease when opening or closing the window, the fixture should -extend a little beyond the window on either side. Use a simple fixture, -an oval or round rod, and a draw type of drapery. If drapery is to be -shirred on the rod, take measurement from top of rod to lower edge of -window. To length measurement, add 2½″ for a 1½″ hem which forms the -casing and heading, and 2¾″ to 2½″ bottom hem. If _sew-on_ or _clip-on -rings are used, measure_ from lower circle of ring to edge of window. To -this measurement, add depth of top and bottom hem. - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - - Awning Window - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -The type of drapery determines points of measurement. With tier type -draperies, one for each section of the window, the measurements are -taken from top to bottom of each section. Draperies hung from the top -extending to lower edge of window or floor are measured from top of -fixture for length desired. Tier type or cafe sections should be long -enough to overlap the heading of the section below. Follow same -procedure for measuring as for projected window. These draperies should -be full—1½ times the width for medium weight fabrics, such as Chintz, -Glosheen, etc., to three times the width when using sheer fabrics. - - - Methods of installing - -Curtain and drapery rods, brackets and valance boards should be mounted -securely to the wall to support heavy draperies. This can be a problem -unless you use the right screws or bolts. There is a correct screw and -bolt available for every type of wall—brick, concrete or plaster walls. - - [Illustration: PLASTER SCREW—For plaster or dry walls.] - - [Illustration: PLASTIC PLUG—Use in brick wall for plug, then insert - screw.] - - [Illustration: MOLLY BOLT—Use in plaster, brick or concrete wall.] - - [Illustration: TOGGLE BOLT—Use in frame or plaster walls where there - is a separation between outer and inner walls.] - - - - - _Construction Details_ - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics. -They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the -fabric and its treatment—whether formal or informal. - -There are three accepted lengths for draperies—to the window sill—to the -bottom of the window apron—or to the floor. Floor length is most -generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often -made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the -rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to -either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same -material. - -When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the -right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies -can be taken. - -Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to -length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter -on “Fabrics” before cutting lengths for draperies. - - - Unlined Draperies - -These draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light -or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or -pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a -pleated heading, allow 5½″ at the top for heading and 5½″ at the bottom -for a 2½″ double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4″ -wide and 3″ shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to -underside of heading ½″ from the top, starting 1½″ from the edge. Stitch -along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening -½″ and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press -and pin in place. - -Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For -hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge ½″ to underside; -then turn 1″ for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching. - -To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag -Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting ¼″ from -turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right -side, exposing the ¼″ edge. Turn 2½″ double hem at the bottom and finish -by hand or machine stitch. - - [Illustration: Stitch stiffening to top of drapery.] - - STIFFENING - 1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS - UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL - - [Illustration: Finish side hem by hand, using slip-stitch.] - - [Illustration: Side hem basted for blind-stitch hemming.] - - [Illustration: Blind-stitch hemming, using the Zigzag Sewing - Machine.] - - [Illustration: Double hems with corners cut out to relieve bulk.] - - [Illustration: Finishing double side hems and bottom hem by hand.] - -If 1″ double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4″ shorter than the -width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets -for pleater pins, (available by the yard) allow 2″ at the top for -heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery -⁵/₁₆″ below edge across the top. Consider the ″return″ of the drapery at -each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the -turn of the rod. Stitch, taking ½″ seam; then turn heading to underside. -Press and stitch ¼″ from the lower edge of the heading. - - [Illustration: Type of hook used for forming pleats and hanging - draperies.] - - [Illustration: RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL - Place pleat tape at top, ⁵/₁₆″ from edge. Stitch ½″ from edge.] - - 1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEM - WRONG SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE - - [Illustration: Tape turned to underside. Stitch tape to drapery at - lower edge. Machine stitch 1″ side hems.] - - SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE - - - Lined Draperies - - [Illustration: Lining in proportion to drapery length.] - - 2″ - TOP 4″ HEM - 7″ - LINING - 3″ - 2″ - -Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give -weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A -sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as -the lining fabric. - -Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the -crosswise and lengthwise grains. - -Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing -a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on -one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut. - -Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the -fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the -crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in -loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric. - -To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but -effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then -alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle -it. Press before seaming. - -Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam -across the top and sides. - -Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem, -1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and -lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in -figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule. -They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the -bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer -or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″ -wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower -than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review -section on _Window Measurements_. - -To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin -lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top -of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam. -Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched; -then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to -hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch -and press. - - [Illustration: Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low - corner.] - - [Illustration: Joining lining to drapery.] - - RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL - 7½″ - LINING - - [Illustration: Stiffening stitched to heading.] - - STIFFENING - 1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES - UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL - -Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure -seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and -press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and -within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side -hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand; -then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2 -or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so -that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem -width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside -one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing -first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem -overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″ -hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is -held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french -tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem, -then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket -stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at -end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower -side hems. - -Use a _sew-on_ or _pin-on_ weight at bottom of center hems. - -(See illustration at top of page 22.) - - [Illustration: Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.] - - LINING TURNED BACK - - [Illustration: Lining slip-stitched to top hem.] - - LINING - - [Illustration: Making a French tack.] - - LINING - - [Illustration: ‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights.] - - [Illustration: Lined drapery with pleater tape heading.] - - [Illustration: Side hems tacked to insure evenness.] - -When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ above -the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section -_Unlined Draperies_ for joining tape to heading. Join lining; then clip -and press seams. Turn drapery to right side and pin lining to bottom of -tape, overlapping ¼″. Stitch and press; then finish side hems above -lining by hand. - -It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This -prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using -matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through -the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of -the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at -the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a -distance of 1″. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down -through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up -through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem. - - - Drapery lined to top - -There are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a -hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length -measurement, add 1½″ at the top for heading and seam. Cut lining in -proportion. Stitch lining and drapery lengths together, bringing edges -even at the top. Clip seam and press open. Cut stiffening the length of -drapery width. Pin and stitch stiffening across the top, taking ½″ seam. -Turn drapery right side out, enclosing heading. Press top and side hems. -Finish hems at the bottom the same as for lined draperies. - - [Illustration: Joining stiffening to lining and drapery at top.] - - [Illustration: Drapery turned to right side.] - - - Interlined Draperies - -Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or -when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is -necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping -quality and elegance of the fabric. - -For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut -interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is, -if draperies have 1½″ hems on each side and 3″ hems, top and bottom, -then cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ shorter than drapery fabric. -Spread material right side down. - - [Illustration: Tack interlining to drapery at center and between - center and side hems.] - - 3″ - TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER - INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING - 1½″ - - [Illustration: Turn and baste hems—side, top, and bottom.] - - UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL - INTERLINING - -Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center -of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the -drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop. -Space about 6″; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then -drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold -interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in -the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking. - - [Illustration: Catch-stitch hems to interlining.] - -Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and -bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be -catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top -and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and -baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½″ seam. Press seam -as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined -curtains and draperies. - - [Illustration: Turn sides and top of lining under ½″. Pin in place, - slip-stitch.] - -When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining -together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space -stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom -hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch. -Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2″ hem, -overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1″. Use french tacks -between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either -‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems. - - [Illustration: When lining is machine stitched to drapery, tack seam - to interlining.] - - [Illustration: French tacks hold drapery and lining together.] - - - - - _Measuring for Pleats_ - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the -fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds. -The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the -box pleat and the cartridge pleat. - -Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as -are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer -fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the -window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be -taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus -the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the -bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center -when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus -these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats. - -The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the -weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain. - -_For Example_: If one half of the width to be covered is 49″ then one -section of the drapery would be about 144″ wide after finishing side -hems. To width of window area (49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ for center -overlap. This totals 53″. 144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for pleats. Allowing -7″ for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness. - -Please Note—3″ for return is used as an example. The return can be 4″ or -5″, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return. - - - Steps to Pleats - -Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and -spacings before stitching. - -Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the -first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side -2″ from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center -between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats -required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd -and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin; -then stitch from top to ¾″ below the heading, reversing the stitch at -either end. - - [Illustration: 1. Bring the markings together for pleat and pin. - - 2. Stitch from top to about ¾″ below heading, reversing stitch at - each end. - - These steps are the same for all types of pleats.] - - [Illustration: _Pinch Pleat_—Divide the large pleat evenly into - three smaller pleats; press in firmly and stitch across the three - folds at lower edge of heading. The Pinch pleat is a favorite finish - for most types of draperies and is particularly good when draperies - are made of a heavier fabric.] - - [Illustration: _French Pleat_—At lower edge of heading, divide large - pleat into three smaller pleats and run needle and thread through - three pleats several times, drawing thread tight. Then fasten thread - securely underneath.] - - [Illustration: _Box Pleat_—The large pleat is spread an equal - distance on each side of stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats - should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ fullness. - - When figuring these pleats, try for uniformity; that is, the space - between each pleat (from fold to fold) should be the same as the - width of pleat. Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ - fullness.] - - [Illustration: _Cartridge Pleat_—This is a round pleat left loose - and filled with cotton, Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The pleats - take up 2″ to 2½″ and are spaced from 2″ to 3″ apart for draw type - draperies.] - - [Illustration: 1. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from traverse - rod.] - - [Illustration: 2. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from rod with - rings or from traverse rod mounted against ceiling.] - - - Doors or Windows Opening Out - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an -interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or -door that opens out. - -Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as -Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable -for these curtains. - -Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9½″ at top for seam, -loops, and facing and 6″ for a 3″ double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the -width of space to be covered for fullness. - -_Example_: If space to be covered is 52″, 3 lengths of 48″ fabric are -required. Cut one length through center and join each half width to each -one of the full widths. Each section measures approximately 70″. 70″ -minus 4″ for 1″ double hems and 3″ for return equals 63″. 7 pleats × 5″ -= 35″. 63″ minus 35″ = 28″ for space to be covered and center overlap. - - [Illustration: 1. Measuring for pleats, spacings and loops. Pleats - may be wider or as narrow as desired. Spacings may vary, depending - on weight of material. Always consider the pleat overlap.] - - [Illustration: 2. Turn top to right side 9½″. Use a stiffening or - stay of lawn or organdy for most light and medium weight materials. - Arrows indicate stitching lines.] - - [Illustration: 3. Material is cut out between loops. Seams are - slashed diagonally at corners to line of stitching. Press. If - stiffening is not used as shown in sketches 1 and 2, stitch 4″ strip - of crinoline to hem as shown above. This lends support to pleats.] - - [Illustration: 4. Turn loops right side out and hem to underside. - Press. Pin in pleat, stitch same as for Box pleat. Spread pleat, - press.] - - [Illustration: 5. Fasten loops to back of pleat by hand. Anchor - curtains at side, top and bottom as shown page 15.] - - [Illustration: Pattern for tie-back pinned to material.] - - [Illustration: Tie-back stitched—Seam blended ready for turning.] - - - Tie-Backs - -Fabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped -bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The -fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To -estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it -back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18″ to -24″ and can be 2½″ or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and -interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped -band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3″ or 4″ wide in the -center, tapering to 2″ or 2½″ at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric, -lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a ⅜″ seam on all -edges. - -Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of -material—right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3″ or 4″ -for turning. - -Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn -band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening. - -Sew small bone rings or very narrow fabric loops at ends of band. These -loop over a hook fastened to side of window. - - - Anchoring Draperies - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - -Outside edges of draperies should hang against the wall in a straight -taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the bottom hem. Place a cup hook in the -wall or the baseboard in line with the hem. - - - - - _Meet the sewing machine with tomorrow written all over it._ - - - [Illustration: uncaptioned] - - _Does all 3 kinds of sewing—straight, zig-zag and chainstitch._ - _Hundreds of zig-zag patterns built-in—just touch a button and sew._ - _Spinning reel thread system—for smooth, even thread flow._ - _New speed switch—set your own sewing speed, fast or slow._ - _New built-in needle threader—ends that last little sewing worry._ - _Push-Button Bobbin—winds right in the machine._ - _Exclusive Slant Needle—see better, sew smoother._ - _New 4-position throat plate lever—an extra for delicate fabrics._ - _New buttonholer device—makes 7 kinds of buttonholes easily._ - -_New Golden Touch & Sew_[1] _sewing machine by Singer._ Be the girl with -the golden touch on this newest and most fabulous of our growing family -of _Touch & Sew_ sewing machines with the Push-Button Bobbin. One of -five new models starting at $149.95. - - [Illustration: ™ SINGER] - - See SINGER COMPANY in phone book for Shop nearest you. - - - SINGER SEWING LIBRARY - You’re sure to want a complete set - - [Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library] - -Here are the newest, most informative, “how to” sewing books available -today! Together they make up a complete dressmaking—home decorations -library. Fully illustrated, each one covers its subject step-by-step, -answering all your questions—in as few words as possible—almost before -you ask them. Choose your needs from the selection of books listed -below. - - 101—HOW TO MAKE CURTAINS - 102—HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES - 103—HOW TO MAKE VALANCES - 104—HOW TO MAKE BEDSPREADS - 105—HOW TO LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT - 106—HOW TO MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT - 107—HOW TO MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES - 108—HOW TO MAKE SLEEVES - 109—HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS - 110—HOW TO MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES - 111—HOW TO MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES - 112—HOW TO MAKE BELTS AND HEMS - 113—HOW TO MAKE SLIP COVERS - 114—HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS - 115—THINGS FOR LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW - 116—CREATING CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS - 117—HOW TO REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT - 118—HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING - 119—HOW TO MAKE APRONS - 120—HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS - 121—HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES - -Singer Sewing library Books are available at Singer Centers, variety, -chain and department stores ... where you will also find the SINGER -SEWING SHELF—for sewing machine parts and supplies. - - -[1]A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY - - - _Cover Photograph reprinted from the BRIDE’S MAGAZINE - Copyright 1957, The Condé Nast Publications, Inc._ - - - Printed in the United States of America Book No. 102 - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES *** - -***** This file should be named 63282-0.txt or 63282-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/2/8/63282/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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