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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 ***
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: RECRUITS AT THE NAVAL TRAINING CAMP, PELHAM BAY, N. Y.,
+LEARNING TO MAKE KNOTS]
+
+
+
+
+                                 KNOTS
+
+                A study of Marlinespike Seamanship which
+               embraces Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings
+              and Splices and their Practical Application.
+
+                   With chapters on Cordage, Matting,
+                        Hammock Making and Wire
+                               Steel Work
+
+                         Compiled and Edited by
+                             A. F. ALDRIDGE
+
+                        Dedicated to the Sailors
+                          of the United States
+
+                     THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY
+
+                     9 MURRAY STREET, NEW YORK CITY
+
+                                U. S. A.
+
+
+
+
+                            _COPYRIGHT 1918_
+
+                                   BY
+                       THE RUDDER PUBLISHING CO.
+                           NEW YORK, U. S. A.
+
+                         _All Rights Reserved_
+
+                                PRESS OF
+                           THOMSON & COMPANY
+                       9 MURRAY STREET, NEW YORK
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  Preface                                        7
+
+  History of Knots                               9
+
+  Cordage                                       11
+
+  Rope and Its Care                             15
+
+  Simple Knots and Loops                        21
+
+  Knots for Uniting Ropes                       31
+
+  Bends and Hitches                             36
+
+  Knots Formed on Ropes by Their Own Strands    50
+
+  Shortenings                                   68
+
+  Ties                                          73
+
+  Purchases and Slings                          79
+
+  Fastenings, Moorings and Ring Knots           88
+
+  Lashings and Seizings etc.                   101
+
+  Splicing and Rope Work                       112
+
+  Wire Rope Splicing                           128
+
+  Matting                                      134
+
+  Hammock Making                               146
+
+  Strength of Rope etc.                        152
+
+  Index                                        157
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The study of knots is always fascinating. To twist ropes so that they
+will hold and not break is an art that comes natural to the sailor and
+the amateur will watch him in wonder as he does his work. Knots are
+just as important in these days of steam vessels as they were in the
+days of the sailing vessel, and now when thousands of men are being
+trained to handle the fleets of vessels building tying knots is a part
+of their training.
+
+At the Naval camps and the nautical schools the men are trained in
+squads and with a little practice they soon acquire the art. To aid
+those students this book has been published. It has been compiled from
+American and British Government records and from many other sources,
+so that it is as complete a collection of knots as it is possible to
+obtain.
+
+It will be of great assistance to men of the U. S. Navy, U. S. Naval
+Reserve, U. S. Junior Naval Reserve, the U. S. Nautical Schools and the
+U. S. Power Squadrons who are working so loyally to aid their country
+in its time of need. To these men this book is dedicated in the hope
+that it may be of some help to them in their work.
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF KNOTS
+
+
+Knots, according to an ingenuous essayist, are probably as “old as
+human fingers” and their history is lost in antiquity. Doubtless when
+man was first placed on this earth he learned to make fastenings
+from the tendrils of climbing vines and trailing flowers which twist
+themselves into odd fastenings as they lift themselves from the earth.
+The first cords were probably twisted grasses and rushes. Since those
+early days knots, like Topsy, have “just growed” and man’s ingenuity
+has enabled him so to arrange ropes and cords that they will sustain
+weights, fasten various articles together and take up strains so that
+they will hold under ordinary conditions.
+
+Seamen are credited with having devised the most knots. They have
+invented ties upon which depend the safety of their ships and the lives
+of those on board. Operatives in many trades such as building have
+borrowed from the seamen their knots and applied them to their work. In
+some instances the land operator has invented new knots or ties to suit
+conditions not found on shipboard.
+
+To tie a knot properly or to be able to join ropes so that they will
+hold and withstand heavy strains is so important with seamen that
+careful attention is paid to the instruction of the men in this
+particular work. At the many naval training camps scattered about
+the country capable instructors show the recruits how to properly
+make knots, ties, hitches, bends and splices, and until the recruit
+knows how to handle ropes quickly and properly he is not much use at
+sea. In the nautical schools, too, and in the divisions of the U. S.
+Power Squadron much attention is paid to this part of the novice’s
+instruction.
+
+The steamship is steadily driving the sailing vessel from the seas.
+Of course on a sailing ship, where every spar is stayed by rope and
+where all the sails, the propelling power, are handled by ropes, the
+ability to properly tie knots is more important than on a vessel
+driven by steam or oil engines, but on the powered vessel there are
+many occasions when it is necessary to have a knowledge of knots,
+particularly in handling cargoes, in making fast to piers or moorings,
+in towing, in handling boats, and in hundreds of other instances so
+that the steam engine is not making “marlinespike seamanship” a lost
+art.
+
+
+
+
+CORDAGE
+
+
+Rope is a word that is taken to mean almost every pliable material.
+Technically a rope is a cord one inch or more in diameter. It is
+generally made of hemp, manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron or copper
+wire. In studying the nature and uses of knots, particularly those
+which come under the designation of splices, some knowledge of the
+mode and of the principles on which ropes are made, is essentially
+necessary. The simplest and most effectual mode of obtaining the united
+strength of fibres composing the rope would be to lay them side by
+side and fasten them together at each end as in the selvagee, which
+is described on page 120. This plan, even if the fibres of hemp were
+of the necessary length, would be open to many objections; hence it
+was necessary to devise some plan which would give unlimited length to
+the rope and at the same time preserve its torsion and portability.
+This has been achieved by the compression and twisting of the fibres
+in different directions, until they produce a compact, hard and strong
+rope, neither breaking the fibres on the one hand nor leaving them so
+loose as to be easily drawn out from the mass on the other--either
+extreme would be equally fatal in its results and injurious to the
+stability of the rope. This is achieved by the modern processes of rope
+making.
+
+[Illustration: FIBRES TO CABLE]
+
+First the fibres of hemp are loosely twisted together, right-handed,
+and form what is technically known as yarn. Two or three yarns twisted
+together form a strand; three strands form a rope and three ropes a
+cable. The diagram illustrates this clearly. =A= is a yarn teased out
+to show the original fibre; =B= shows the yarn forming the strand; the
+strands =C=, =H=, and =J= form the rope =D=; the ropes =D=, =F=, and
+=G= form the cable =E=.
+
+A hawser rope is composed of three strands laid up generally
+right-handed--that is, the direction taken by the strands in forming
+the rope always runs from left to right.
+
+A shroud-laid rope, also laid right-handed, consists of four strands
+with a heart in the center.
+
+A cable-laid rope is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes
+laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said to consist of
+nine strands, or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up
+right-handed.
+
+[Illustration: HAWSER ROPE SHROUD-LAID ROPE CABLE-LAID ROPE]
+
+Spun yarn is a number of yarns twisted up right-handed. The number
+varies from two to eight.
+
+Nettle stuff is made of two or three yarns laid together and is used
+for making clews of hammocks, harbor gaskets, etc.
+
+Sennit is made of a number of yarns plaited up into square, round or
+flat sennit as required and used for various purposes.
+
+Junk consists of lengths of condemned cordage 4 inches and above.
+
+Oakum is old rope unlaid and the yarns picked into hemp for caulking
+the seams in ships’ decks or sides.
+
+Boltrope is cordage tarred and white, made of Italian hemp from ½ inch
+to 6 inches. It is soft laid and well stretched and is used for roping
+sails and awnings.
+
+Hammock lashings and lanyards are of white Italian hemp 1¼ inch.
+
+Coir rope is three-stranded right-handed rope. The yarn is spun from
+the fibres of the cocoanut tree. It is one-third lighter than hemp but
+not nearly so durable. It soon rots after being wet, if not well dried
+before being stowed away. As it floats so light it is very useful for
+warps and is about a quarter the strength of hemp rope.
+
+Twine is made from very fine hemp.
+
+
+
+
+ROPE AND ITS CARE
+
+
+Rope--and a sailor’s mind instantly pictures a ship. Ropes belong to
+a ship in his mind’s processes and since man launched his first boat
+on the water, rope has been in one form or another part of a boat’s
+equipment. Savages probably had ropes before they had boats, but with
+the development of the boat has come the development of rope into the
+product of today.
+
+Did you ever stop to think why rope is so much used aboard ships? What
+are the qualities which make it such a necessary part of a ship’s
+gear? Ropes are primarily used to transmit power in a convenient way.
+If sailors could grasp the sail in their hands and clew it up no
+clew-lines would be necessary. But their arms are not long enough and
+the power would be spread over such a large area that it would become
+ineffective. A clew-line concentrates that power from that point of
+application to a convenient place for the sailor to apply it. An iron
+rod would do the same thing, you say. Yes, but an iron rod lacks two
+essential qualities--lightness and flexibility. Flexibility is the
+cardinal virtue of a rope. When not in use it can be coiled down to
+a very small space and it can follow the wake of the worst helmsman
+without fear of breaking its back. A chain is flexible, but its own
+weight is so great that it is only of value for certain kinds of work.
+
+Ropes are made of organic material such as cotton, hemp, manila, grass,
+and of metals such as iron, steel, bronze and sometimes aluminum.
+
+The class of organic materials is classified as to the material and the
+manner in which they are made up. Grass, manila and hemp are spun into
+rope, while cotton is spun, braided and knitted. Braided and knitted
+ropes have the distinctive quality of being able to transmit torsional
+stresses such as a flexible shaft and are used for this purpose in
+the patent log-line. They are also free from turns, which makes them
+valuable as signal halyards, though by the use of small swivels this
+bad feature on spun rope has been overcome for use as signal halyards.
+When you do use cotton, remember it has a great ability for shrinking.
+Therefore, do not haul your halyards taut in dry weather and wonder why
+they parted in the first rain-squall.
+
+If spun rope has ruined so many dispositions by the diabolical turn
+which it can foul itself into--why use it? Because that very same
+twist--the cause of so much cursing--is the secret of its strength.
+Rope is subjected to a tension or pull along the line of its longest
+axis. The thread is made of little fibres which are twisted together.
+The threads are then twisted to make yarns or strands and the strands
+twisted or spun into rope or lines. Rope or lines are made up into
+hawsers.
+
+Take a coil spring and pull out the ends. If you put power enough on
+the wire it straightens out. This is exactly what happens when you put
+a strain on a rope; the twists or turns try to straighten out, and
+lie in a straight line along the center. But there is yarn already
+in the center, and the coils are pressing in on all sides, squeezing
+it more and more as the load increases. Now the reason why the two
+first fibres clung together when they were twisted was that this same
+pressure made the friction between the fibres so great that they could
+not slide by each other. This applies to the many hundreds of fibres
+which make up the rope as a whole. So the harder the pull the harder
+the squeeze and the harder it is for them to slip by each other. The
+fact that some pieces of fibre are first on the outside and then on
+the inside makes all get an equal share of the squeeze. Why does this
+not go on indefinitely? Because up to a certain load the tendency to
+cling together is greater than the reaction from the center, which has
+to push them apart, but when this pressure or reaction becomes greater
+than the friction the little fibres begin to slide and the ropes part.
+
+The smaller sizes of spun ropes of this organic class are designated by
+the number of threads used to make up the rope, such as nine-thread or
+eighteen-thread line. The larger sizes are designated by the number of
+inches of circumference, such as one-inch, three-inch, etc. Hawsers are
+measured by the circumference in inches. Spun ropes are three-stranded
+or four-stranded. A three-stranded rope is more flexible than a four,
+but a four has greater surface area for the same strength and weight
+and therefore wears longer.
+
+Hemp rope is harder and less flexible than manila and is used for
+standing rigging, while manila rope is used for running rigging.
+
+Grass or coir ropes are used where the rope is submerged often, as they
+do not rot when damp and can be stowed wet. They are very elastic and
+are specially used for towing light weights, such as targets in the
+Navy.
+
+Just a few hints about this general class of organic ropes:
+
+Always dry these ropes before stowing them to prevent rotting.
+
+Protect them from chafing by use of chafing gear or reversing end for
+end to bring the wear in different places.
+
+Always coil down right-handed or with the sun.
+
+The greater the surface the less the wear on any one strand, so use
+four-stranded for ropes whose particular wear is from chafing such as
+anchor warps, for small boats and boat-falls. A small size rope would
+often be strong enough but would chafe through quicker.
+
+Metallic or wire ropes are generally either iron, steel, bronze or
+combinations of metal strands spun with hemp or manila strands.
+
+Bronze rope is used for tiller ropes because it is non-magnetic and
+it will not rust. This is important, as tiller ropes are often in
+inaccessible places. If it does not pass near your compass and it is
+out where it can be easily examined and cared for to prevent rusting, a
+flexible steel tiller rope is cheaper and stronger for the same weight
+and also wears longer.
+
+Galvanized iron wire is used for standing rigging, and the rusting in
+places where turns have broken the surface coating, such as around
+thimbles of an eye splice, should be carefully looked for. Most sailors
+think it wiser not to paint wire except for decorative purposes. If it
+is painted be sure to remove all grease and water from the surface.
+
+Steel rope is used for running rigging because of its flexibility and
+lightness. It is not adapted, however, for small boats.
+
+A combination of alternate strands of wire and hemp is made into rope
+known as durable rope, and is used particularly for cargo falls and it
+is more flexible and more easily handled.
+
+
+
+
+SIMPLE KNOTS AND LOOPS
+
+
+All knots are begun with loops or hitches. These may be single or
+double as required. The simple hitch is self-explanatory, as are the
+underhand and the overhand loops. The illustrations explain them
+clearly.
+
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE HITCH UNDERHAND LOOP OVERHAND LOOP]
+
+=The Simple Knot= begins with one of these loops by passing the loose
+end through the loop and then drawing it taut as shown in the diagram.
+
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE KNOT FIGURE OF 8 KNOT]
+
+=The Figure of 8 Knot= is known as the perfect knot. It is formed by an
+overhand and an underhand loop overlapping each other and the loose end
+passed through the loop. When drawn tight it bears a close resemblance
+to the Arabic numeral 8, hence its name.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE KNOT NIPPED TREBLE KNOT OPEN]
+
+=The Double, Treble, Four-Fold, or Six-Fold Knots= may be called
+compound knots. They are used often when it is necessary to shorten
+a rope a few inches or to increase the size or strength of a holding
+knot to prevent it passing through an eye or a block. These knots are
+made by passing the end of a rope twice, three times, or as many times
+as may be necessary, through a loop as shown in the Simple Knot. The
+diagrams show a double knot loosely formed and when nipped or drawn
+taut, and a treble knot in its open formation and pulled taut.
+
+[Illustration: FIVE-FOLD KNOT OPEN NIPPED]
+
+=The Five and Six-Fold Knots= present handsome coils and are useful to
+travelers who do not wish to cut the precious cords of their baggage.
+
+From Simple knots the student passes to loops, nooses and running
+knots. The Bight of a rope is the loop formed when a rope is bent back
+on itself. The Standing Part is the principal portion or longest part
+of the rope and the end is that part used in forming the knot or hitch.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE RUNNING KNOT LOOP KNOT]
+
+=The Simple Running Knot= is made by passing a hitch instead of the end
+of a rope when making a simple knot. The variations of this knot are
+numerous. When the loose end is knotted with a simple perfect or double
+knot it forms one of the most useful and easily made loops.
+
+[Illustration: TOMFOOL KNOT]
+
+=The Tomfool Knot= is a double loop through a simple knot. This knot
+is also known as the Single Pitcher Knot. It is said that this knot
+has baffled many experts who profess to be able to break any knot. It
+is made like the running knot. The firm end is then passed through the
+open, simple knot so as to form a double loop or bow. If the wrists are
+passed within the loops, the loops then drawn taut and the loose ends
+tied firmly around the central part a pair of very good handcuffs is
+furnished.
+
+[Illustration: LOOP KNOT FOR LARGE CORDAGE]
+
+=The Loop Knot= is the ordinary useful loop of everyday life and it
+forms the foundation for many more elaborate knots and for shortenings.
+A more ornamental and even stronger loop, which is well adapted for
+large cordage, is made by the figure 8 knot. This loop, like the common
+loop knot, when once made and has been subjected to a lengthened
+strain, is very difficult to untie. In this case there is nothing
+better than a running knot with a check knot, which is a modification
+of the fisherman’s knot. A simple knot is tied over the running line as
+shown in the figure. After use it may be easily drawn apart, the loop
+slipped and the knot untied in very short time.
+
+[Illustration: BOWLINE KNOT]
+
+=The Bowline Knot= cannot slip and is therefore always used for
+slinging a man for the purpose of doing some particular piece of work;
+the workman sits in the sling. First take the part =Z= in the right
+hand with =Y= in the left hand, place =Z= on =Y=, and, turning the left
+hand over from you to the left, form a loop and reeve =C= as shown by
+the dotted line and haul taut.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 RUNNING BOWLINE KNOT]
+
+=The Running Bowline= is used whenever a running noose is required.
+Form a loop with a long end =C= lying underneath the standing part as
+shown in Fig. 1. Now bring end =C= over part =Y= and with it form the
+bowline knot on part =Z= as in the previous case it was formed on its
+own part, when it will appear as in Fig. 2.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT]
+
+=The Bowline on the Bight= is used for lowering a man from aloft or
+slinging a man over the ship’s side. Using both parts of the rope
+together, commence as in making an ordinary bowline. To finish off,
+open out bight =C=, taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted
+line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut when it will appear
+as in Fig. 2.
+
+=A Simple Clinch= is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a
+small ring and securing, by a seizing, a small lashing at =D=.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE CLINCH RUNNING OR INSIDE CLINCH OUTSIDE CLINCH]
+
+=A Running= or =Inside Clinch= is formed by the end of a rope on its
+own standing part and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot
+of a sail.
+
+=An Outside Clinch= is formed in a similar way but the end, =C=, is
+brought round on top; that is, away from the bight.
+
+=The Standing Bowline Knot= is formed by passing the loose end through
+the lower loop of a figure 8 knot and seizing or tying the end with
+small cord or marline.
+
+=Slip Clinches= are very easily made. They are really open running
+knots seized instead of tied.
+
+[Illustration: STANDING BOWLINE AND SLIP CLINCHES SEIZED]
+
+=The Running Noose= is one of the most common and useful of running
+knots used in commerce but it is only applicable to small cords. A
+simple knot is made on the end of the cord which is then simply
+knotted round.
+
+=The Crossed Running Knot= is useful in packing heavy goods as well as
+a useful anchor fastening.
+
+[Illustration: RUNNING NOOSE CROSSED RUNNING KNOT]
+
+
+
+
+KNOTS FOR UNITING ROPES
+
+
+The most common knots, those used in everyday life, are to unite the
+ends of two separate pieces of cord or rope.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 REEF KNOT]
+
+=The Reef Knot= is the simplest of all knots and always used when a
+common tie is required. The two illustrations show how this knot is
+made. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 1, be sure part =A= is
+kept in front of part =B= as shown, and the end led in according to the
+direction of the dotted line.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FALSE OR GRANNY KNOT]
+
+If the cords be of unequal thickness the knot will slip, form a loop
+and part company, as shown in Fig. 1 above. If the ends are not
+parallel to the rope it becomes the False Knot or Granny Knot. Figs.
+2 and 3 show the difference.
+
+A better way to fasten two ropes of unequal size is to tie or seize the
+ends (Fig. 1 below) and when this is done as shown the square knot or
+reef can be made as usual.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 OPEN-HAND KNOT]
+
+=The Open-Hand Knot= is a good one for joining two ropes of unequal
+diameter. It is very quickly made and has the recommendation of never
+slipping or untying. If, however, a great strain is put on the rope it
+is apt to break at the knot. The illustrations above, one showing the
+open formation (Fig. 2), and the other its back view when drawn taut
+(Fig. 3), explain the process of making.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 WEAVER’S KNOT]
+
+=The Weaver’s Knot= is very useful in joining small cord or twine and
+is the best for thread. The ends are crossed as in Fig. 1 and both
+cords are held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The
+right end, =A=, is then looped back over the left end and brought
+under the thumb, where it is held fast, while the right-hand end,
+=B=, is slipped through the loop. The knot (Fig. 3) is then formed by
+tightening the right-hand cord. If cord thicker than thread is used,
+the end, =B=, must be held between the thumb and finger of the left
+hand while the knot is being drawn taut, as in Fig. 4 (below).
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4 FIG. 5 FIG. 6 FISHERMAN’S KNOT]
+
+=The Fisherman’s= or =Englishman’s Knot= is of quite another character.
+It is formed by two simple knots (Fig. 7) slipped over each cord as in
+Fig. 5, and when drawn taut its front appearance is seen in Fig. 6. It
+is used by anglers, as it may be separated by taking the ends =A= and
+=B= in Fig. 6 so as to admit a third line.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 7 FIG. 8 FIG. 9 ORDINARY KNOT OR TIE]
+
+=The Ordinary Knot= or =Tie= for uniting large ropes is shown in Fig.
+8. It has all the advantages of the open-hand knot, with the additional
+recommendations that it is easy to make, very strong and does not
+strain the fibres of the rope. First make the simple knot (Fig. 7) and
+then interlace the other cord in the manner shown in Fig. 8. When drawn
+taut it has the appearance of Fig. 9. If the ends are whipped it is
+really a neat and handsome as well as useful knot.
+
+[Illustration: SHORTENING TIE]
+
+=The Shortening Tie= is used when there is too much rope and where it
+is necessary to use a large knot for the purpose of preventing its
+running too far through the eye, ring or loop. It is formed by making
+the figure of 8 knot at the end of a rope, then interlacing it with
+another rope, and when drawn taut it has the appearance of the third
+diagram.
+
+[Illustration: A ROPE YARN KNOT]
+
+=A Rope Yarn Knot= is for joining two yarns together and is clearly
+shown in the diagram.
+
+
+
+
+BENDS AND HITCHES
+
+
+It is rather difficult to say where knots end and bends begin, because
+a tie made in a particular way and under certain circumstances may be
+called a knot, but differently constructed and under other conditions
+it is called a bend or a hitch. The result is the same in each case. A
+single hitch may be merely a loop formed in a rope.
+
+[Illustration: HALF HITCH TIMBER HITCH]
+
+=A Half Hitch= is used generally in conjunction with other hitches.
+Its formation is easily seen from the diagram.
+
+=The Timber Hitch= is used to secure the end of a rope to a spar, also
+for bending a rope round light cases, bales, etc., when provisioning
+ships. It is formed by making a half hitch with rather a long end and
+expanding the end backwards round its own part. It is used also with a
+half hitch for towing spars, as shown in the diagram below.
+
+[Illustration: TIMBER HITCH FOR TOWING SPARS]
+
+=The Crabber’s Eye Knot= is not well known but is one that is not
+likely to part when strained. To make it bring the end back to form a
+loop, taking it first under and then over the standing part, up through
+the main loop, over the standing bight again and up through its own
+bight. Before the turns are hauled into their places, the knot will
+slip on the part =A=, as in an ordinary knot. If the part =B= is hauled
+upon the strand, =A=, which passes through the center knot, rises and
+the coil which goes round it jambs, making the knot secure so that it
+may be used as a running knot or otherwise, as desired.
+
+=A Buntline Hitch= is commenced as in making an outside clinch but
+instead of putting on a seizing, the end is passed over and through the
+bight, as clearly shown in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: CRABBER’S EYE KNOT BUNTLINE HITCH]
+
+=The Clove Hitch= is really a jamming of two half hitches and is
+generally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and
+the end kept free for use for further purposes, as in securing ratlines
+to the shrouds, and used also for securing the end of butt slings. Its
+formation can be followed very easily in the diagrams.
+
+[Illustration: CLOVE HITCH]
+
+=The Roband Hitch= is very useful when a tackle, hook, ring or another
+rope is to be fastened to a beam or spar. This is another simple
+hitch, clearly illustrated in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: ROBAND HITCH SLIPPERY HITCH]
+
+=The Slippery Hitch= is valuable because of the ease with which it can
+be cast off in an emergency. It will hold securely while there is a
+strain on the rope.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 ROLLING HITCH]
+
+=The Rolling Hitch= is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, but,
+as can be seen from the figures, there is an intermediate round turn
+between the first and last hitches. It will be seen that the round turn
+in Fig. 2 is taken around both the standing part, =A=, and the larger
+rope =B=. The great value of this hitch is that it does not slip, and
+this can be rendered doubly sure by backing the end, =C=, round the
+part, =D=, and securing the end with a strop. It is used for bending a
+small rope to a larger one, for putting a tail jigger on a rope, and
+for securing hammocks to gantlines.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3 FIG. 4 ROLLING HITCH]
+
+=The Double Blackwall Hitch= is made by taking the bight of the rope
+and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing
+it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing
+the upper part on top of it. It holds better than the two preceding
+hitches.
+
+=The Marling Hitch= is for lashing up hammocks or putting temporary
+seizing on two ropes or spars. It is also used when making swabs.
+
+=The Midshipman’s Hitch= is used at times instead of a Blackwall Hitch
+and it will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made by
+first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and
+placing it over the bill of the hook.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE BLACKWALL HITCH MARLING HITCH MIDSHIPMAN’S HITCH]
+
+=The Killick Hitch= is a modification of the timber hitch. After making
+a timber hitch and hauling it taut, a single hitch is made and slipped
+over the end of a stone. This makes a secure anchor on fishing grounds
+on rocky coasts where an anchor will not hold.
+
+=The Magnus Hitch= is a method of securing a rope to a spar. Take the
+end of the rope twice round a spar in front of the standing part, round
+the spar again and then pass it through the last bight.
+
+[Illustration: KILLICK HITCH MAGNUS HITCH]
+
+=The Round Turn with Two Half Hitches= is used to secure a hawser to
+the ring of a buoy and the rope in this case should be parcelled as
+shown in the diagram.
+
+=The Marlinespike Hitch= is used for heaving the turns of a seizing
+taut with a marlinespike or hooking the hook of tackle to any rope
+where a small pull is required. It is formed by the standing part being
+picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lays under the
+standing part and over the sides of the loop. Its advantage is that it
+never jams.
+
+[Illustration: ROUND TURN WITH TWO HALF HITCHES
+
+MARLINESPIKE HITCH
+
+BLACKWALL HITCH]
+
+=The Blackwall Hitch= is used for hooking a tackle to a rope and
+bringing the fall of one jigger to the double block of another. It
+consists of a half hitch, and as soon as any strain comes on it the
+standing part, =A=, jambs the end part, =C=. By taking another round
+turn at =B=, before passing =C= under =A=, it will hold more securely.
+
+[Illustration: STUN’SAIL HALYARD BEND]
+
+=A Stun’sail Halyard Bend= is simply a Fisherman’s bend with the end
+backed again over the last round and under the first.
+
+[Illustration: TOPSAIL HALYARD BEND]
+
+=The Topsail Halyard Bend= is made by bringing the rope twice round the
+spar, back over the standing part, under all turns, over two turns and
+under the last. Then jamb all the coils close and haul taut.
+
+[Illustration: SHEET BEND]
+
+=The Sheet Bend=, as its name implies, is the method of attaching the
+sheet to the clew of the sail. It is also used for securing boats’ lazy
+painters to the Jacob’s ladders of the lower booms. In making a bend
+the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming
+reef knots, but an eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the
+ropes as seen in the first diagram and the other rope’s end is then
+rove through it in the various ways required. To form a Sheet Bend pass
+the second rope’s end underneath the eye at point =A= and bring up
+through the loop, then form with it a half hitch round =C= and =B=. It
+will hold still better and is less likely to jamb, if the end is passed
+round again as in the third diagram. This is called a Double Sheet Bend.
+
+[Illustration: FISHERMAN’S BEND]
+
+=The Fisherman’s Bend= is formed by taking two round turns around the
+object to which the rope is to be secured and then backing the end
+round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and the
+second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half
+hitch around its own part or by stopping it to it. The dotted line in
+the first diagram shows the direction the end =C= must take. This bend
+is used for bending a hawser to the ring of an anchor or a rope’s end
+to a bucket.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE HAWSER BEND]
+
+=The Hawser Bend= is so easy as to be constantly used when only a
+temporary purpose has to be served.
+
+[Illustration: BOWLINE BEND (UPPER) HALF HITCH AND SEIZING BEND]
+
+=The Bowline Bend= is the strongest of all knotted hawsers. It is
+formed of two Bowline knots, one crossing the loop of the other as
+shown in the diagram.
+
+=The Half Hitch and Seizing Bend= is used on hawsers which are to be
+joined for a long period. Its formation is shown in the illustration
+clearly.
+
+[Illustration: CARRICK BEND]
+
+=The Carrick Bend= is for bending two hawsers together when required
+to go around a capstan. First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in the
+upper diagram. Pass the second hawser under the first at =A=, bring up
+through the eye =B=, back it over the cross at =C= and bring up again
+towards you through the eye =B=, and then stop the ends of each hawser
+to their own respective parts as shown in the lower diagram.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE CARRICK BEND]
+
+=A Double Carrick Bend= is formed in precisely the same way, but a
+complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser and
+then led up again through the eye and finished off.
+
+[Illustration: CHAIN HITCH]
+
+=The Chain Hitch= is used to attach a small rope to aid in pulling
+a larger. When it is necessary to use a lever as a handspike the
+fastening in the lower diagram is used. First a clove hitch is formed
+to the spar and as many single hitches as required are then made. It
+may be finished off with any secure knot.
+
+
+
+
+KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS
+
+
+If ropes, hawsers or cables are left with their ends unguarded, they
+are sure to become untwisted or otherwise unmanageable. The same is
+true in a lesser degree of lanyards and smaller ropes. These can easily
+be secured with a fine whipping and the smaller yarns and threads by a
+single overhand or other knot. The ends of ropes at sea are variously
+treated. In some instances they are finely tapered to a point, to pass
+easily through a block or ring. While some of these knots for guarding
+the rope ends may seem fanciful they are by no means merely ornamental
+and many of them play important parts in the standing rigging of a ship.
+
+At first glance some of these knots may appear to be very intricate and
+difficult to make. They are not as difficult as their pictures would
+seem to indicate and a little thoughtful study, carefully following the
+explanatory diagrams, will smooth away all troubles.
+
+=To Whip a Rope= first lay the end of a length of twine along the
+end of the rope, and then, commencing at the part furthest from the
+rope’s end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and
+the twine, as shown in the first diagram. Then lay the twine in the
+form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken as seen
+in the second diagram. To finish off take that portion of the loop
+designated =A=, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and
+part =B= of the twine until the loop is all used up. Pull through the
+remainder snugly by part =C= and cut off short when no end of twine
+will be visible as in the third diagram.
+
+[Illustration: WHIPPING A ROPE]
+
+=A Palm and Needle Whipping= is a permanent way of securing a rope’s
+end from fraying and better than the whipping put on by hand. First
+place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole
+length of twine through. Take a number of turns round the rope with
+the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and finish up by following
+round with the needle between each strand, forming a series of
+wrappings, and cut off the end of the twine.
+
+[Illustration: PALM AND NEEDLE WHIPPING]
+
+=To point a rope= first put on a stop at two and one-half times the
+circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the
+length for pointing. Unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the
+strands, split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of
+each yarn. A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger and
+thumb left-handed. When the nettles are made up stop them back on the
+standing part of the rope. Then with the rest of the yarns, form the
+point by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife and marl them
+down together with twine. Divide the nettles, taking every other one up
+and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of twine which
+is called the warp very taut round the part where the nettles separate
+taking a hitch with the last turn. Repeat this process by placing
+every alternate nettle up or down, passing the warp or filling, taking
+a hitch each time until the point is to its required length. You may
+either form a bight with the last lay by passing the warp through the
+bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or, work a becket in the end
+by taking a small piece of rope one-fourth the size of the rope, form a
+bight, unlay the ends, and twist the six strands up again by two taking
+some of the inside yarns and lay them up as the rope, then short splice
+that and the becket together and marl it down.
+
+[Illustration: POINTING A ROPE]
+
+=The Wall Knot= is used for finishing off seizings forming a shroud
+knot. It is also used on the end of a rope to prevent it unreeving. To
+form a wall knot first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in
+the first diagram below.
+
+[Illustration: WALL KNOT]
+
+Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand =A= in
+the direction indicated, viz., under strand =B= and up between strands
+=B= and =C= as in the second diagram.
+
+[Illustration: WALL KNOT IN MAKING AND FINISHED]
+
+Then with strand =B= form a similar loop, enclosing strands =A= and =C=
+and bringing the end of strand =B= up between =A= and =D= as in the
+first diagram above.
+
+Now with strand =C= form a similar loop enclosing strands =B= and =A=
+by leading the end of strand =C= up through the loop =E= in strand =A=
+as in the second diagram. Finally work all parts well taut, whip the
+ends of the strands together and cut off short, at the bottom diagram.
+
+[Illustration: CROWNING]
+
+=A Double Wall Knot= is formed by making the single wall knot first
+and not hauling it taut. Then take one end and bring it underneath the
+part of the first walling next to it and push it up through the same
+bight. Do the same with the other strands, pushing them up and through
+two bights. If made this way it will have a double and a single crown.
+A double wall double crowned is a continuation of the double wall. The
+strands are laid by the side of those of the single crown and pushed
+through the same bight in the single crown and down through the double
+walling as shown in the illustration. The middle figure shows one
+method of finishing a single wall by cutting off the strands and tying
+them with twine. The double crowned wall knot may be finished by a
+Lark’s Nest by interlacing the loose strands one within another by a
+requisite number of turns over the pudding. This forms a knot at the
+end of the rope.
+
+[Illustration: CROWN KNOT MANROPE KNOT STOPPER KNOT]
+
+=The Crown Knot= or crowning forms the basis of other knots. To make a
+crown pass the bights of the first and second strands over the second
+and third strands respectively, dip the end of the third down through
+the bight of the first and work the knot into shape. Its construction
+can be followed very easily in the diagram. Double crowning is done by
+following round each strand again alongside the first lead.
+
+=The Manrope Knot= is used for securing the upper ends of the gangway
+manropes. It is made by first forming a wall and then crowning it as in
+the first diagram. Then follow round the wall again and lastly follow
+round the crown, when the finished knot will appear as in the second
+diagram.
+
+=The Stopper Knot= is used in the ends of stoppers and is made by
+forming a wall and half a wall, putting on a good whipping about two or
+three inches from the knot and cut off the ends.
+
+[Illustration: TURK’S HEAD KNOT]
+
+=The Turk’s Head Knot= is worked upon a rope with a piece of small
+line. Take a clove hitch slack with the rope with the line round the
+rope. Then take one of the bights formed by the clove hitch and put it
+over the other, pass the end under, and up, through the bight which is
+underneath. Then cross the bights again and put the end round again,
+under, and up, through the bight which is underneath. After this follow
+the lead and it will make a turban of three parts to each cross.
+
+[Illustration: SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT]
+
+=Single Matthew Walker Knot= is used for securing the standing part of
+a rope or making beckets for buckets, etc. To make this knot begin as
+for the wall knot but pass the first strand =A= under both =B= and =C=
+as shown in the first diagram. Then pass =B= under both strands =C= and
+=A=, and bring up through the first loop formed by =A=, shown in the
+second diagram.
+
+[Illustration: THIRD PROCESS OF MATTHEW WALKER KNOT]
+
+Similarly pass =C= under =A= and =B= and bring up through the loops
+first formed by =A= and =B= as seen in the third diagram.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE MATTHEW WALKER OPEN AND TAUT]
+
+=The Double Matthew Walker= is easily made when one notices the
+difference between a single Matthew Walker and a wall knot. In the
+wall knot each strand is simply interlaced with the strand immediately
+on its right coming up through the loop formed by the second strand.
+In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands
+to its right coming up through the loop of the third strand. Another
+evolution in the same order gives the double Matthew Walker. It is
+formed as will be seen in the diagram by making each strand contain its
+own loop, the other two strands and its own end, that is, each strand
+leads up through its own bight after interlacing the other two.
+
+[Illustration: SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT MAKING]
+
+=The Single Diamond Knot= is made some distance from the end of a rope.
+It is therefore necessary to unlay the rope considerably more than
+is required in the preceding knots and as the strands will have to
+be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in the strands as
+much as possible. Now bring each of the three strands down alongside
+the standing part of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold
+them thus with the left hand. Take the first strand =A= as shown in
+the diagram and putting it over the next, =B=, bring it up through the
+bight of the third strand, =C=.
+
+[Illustration: DIAMOND KNOT]
+
+Take the end of the second strand over the third and up through the
+bight of the first. The last strand is brought over the first and up
+through the bight of the second. Haul taut and lay the rope up again.
+The first diagram above shows the loops in their places with the ends
+through them before they are hauled taut and the second diagram shows
+the completed knot.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT]
+
+=The Double Diamond Knot= is made first like the single diamond and
+then the ends are made to follow the lead of the single knot through
+two single bights, the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last
+strand passes through two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut
+and laid up as for the manrope knot.
+
+[Illustration: SHROUD KNOT]
+
+=The Shroud Knot= is of use in joining two ropes together, particularly
+in joining a stay or shroud that has been carried away. Each rope is
+unlaid the necessary length and they are then brought close together. A
+wall knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other as seen
+in the first diagram. The completed knot is seen in the second diagram
+but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in the
+third diagram.
+
+[Illustration: SNAKING AND SEIZING]
+
+=Snaking= or =Seizing= is done by taking the end under and over the
+outer turns of the seizing alternately, passing over the whole. The
+whole may be whipped also with small twine. The ends of a four-stranded
+rope may be thus secured. The end is first whipped as shown at =A=
+in the diagram. The four strands are then opened out. They are then
+brought down over the end in loops and the strands tied together, as in
+the second diagram, or they may be simply brought down and bound to
+the cable with twine, as shown in the third diagram.
+
+[Illustration: SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT]
+
+=A Spritsail Sheet Knot= is made by unlaying both ends of a rope and
+bringing the two standing parts together as in the first diagram.
+Grasp both parts of the rope at =A=, with the six strands form a wall
+knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under 5,
+5 under 6 and 6 under the loop formed by 1. Now lay any opposite two
+of the strands across the top in an opposite direction and crown by
+passing the other four, each in turn, alternately over and under these
+two. Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward
+direction alongside the strands forming the first walling. Now follow
+round the walling again, when the strands will come through in an
+upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning. Follow
+through the crowning once more and cut off the short ends, when a
+handsome and useful stopper knot will result as in the second diagram.
+
+
+
+
+SHORTENINGS
+
+
+Shortenings are, as the term implies, knots that take up the surplus
+cord and keep the ends from being in the way. A piece of rope or cord
+is often too long and to cut it would be waste, so a shortening knot is
+used. Sometimes the tie, four, five or six-fold knots are used for this
+purpose.
+
+[Illustration: SINGLE PLAIT OR CHAIN KNOT]
+
+=The Single Plait=, or as the sailor terms it, the Chain Knot, is the
+commonest of all these knots. First make a running loop and then draw
+the loose end through the loop and repeat this operation until all
+excess of cord has been taken up. The end may be secured by bringing
+the end of the rope through the loop or by passing a belaying pin
+through the loop. These two methods are illustrated in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: TWIST KNOT]
+
+=The Twist Knot= is an ordinary three plait, although it is formed with
+one piece of rope. It is more useful than when formed of three separate
+pieces, for the ends are fastened and it cannot come undone. To make
+this twist hold the double loop in the left hand; the side =A= is then
+brought over to =B=, with a half turn =B= is crossed over to =A= and
+the process of an ordinary three plait is continued until the end of
+the rope is reached, when the loose end is passed through the bight and
+the knot is fastened and completed.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE CHAIN KNOT]
+
+=The Double Chain Knot= is very easily made, if the first loop is made
+secure by a twist in the rope as shown in the diagram, and then pass
+the loose end through the preceding loop right and left until the knot
+is finished.
+
+[Illustration: SHEEP SHANK OR DOG SHANK]
+
+=The Sheep Shank=, or =Dog Shank= as it is sometimes called, is an
+old-fashioned method of shortening a rope and can be used on any sized
+cordage. It is used for shortening a rope which requires lengthening
+again. Gather up the amount to be shortened in the form of the upper
+illustration. Then with parts =A= and =B= form a half hitch round the
+two parts of the bight as in the second figure.
+
+To render it still more dependable the bights =A= and =B= may be seized
+or toggled to the standing parts as in the third and fourth figures.
+
+[Illustration: BEND SHORTENING]
+
+=Bend Shortening= or =Simple Loop= is a plain, useful expedient
+for stout rope and has the merit of not injuring the ropes by an
+unnecessary strain, or crossing the fibres of the hemp. It will not,
+however, stand any great strain.
+
+[Illustration: BOW SHORTENING]
+
+=The Bow= or =Knot Shortening= is very quickly made. It is simply
+an ordinary knot in the middle of a rope in which a double bend has
+previously been made. It is not adapted to heavy ropes nor will it
+stand a heavy strain.
+
+[Illustration: CATSPAW]
+
+=The Catspaw= is one of the easiest made loops to be used for hooking
+on the block of a tackle or shortening up a bale sling stop. First
+throw back a bight as shown in the first diagram. Then taking hold of
+=A= and =B=, one in each hand, twist them up as in the second diagram.
+Bring the two eyes =A= and =B= together and hook in the tackle.
+
+
+
+
+TIES
+
+
+When the many varieties of knots and ties are analyzed it will be found
+that ties used in trades are all taken first from the mariner. The
+sailor learned to fasten ropes so that they were able to take up all
+strains evenly and to hold without chafing or without any undue strain
+being put on any one part of the rope. Consequently when builders
+erect scaffolding they use the ties and knots long known at sea. The
+Clove Hitch is also known as the Builder’s Knot because it is used to
+hold the scaffolding. The Clove Hitch is used by surgeons in cases of
+dislocation. The Reef Knot is also used by surgeons to tie arteries
+when performing operations. So it is with many other knots and because
+of their uses for other than nautical work they have often received
+other names.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE KNOT]
+
+=The Simple Knot= is the foundation for many ties. In the illustration
+this knot is seen made around a mast or other solid substance. This
+simple knot can at once become a clove hitch or the builder’s knot
+which is illustrated on page 39.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+DOUBLE BUILDER’S KNOT SINGLE BOW KNOT
+
+DOUBLE BOW KNOT SINGLE TWIST KNOT]
+
+=The Double Builder’s Knot= is shown in the diagram above, upper left.
+It is made in the same way as the clove hitch or builder’s knot except
+that the end goes around again as before and underneath its own part
+so making it much stronger.
+
+=The Single Bow Knot= is one of the most common of the knots in general
+use. It is commenced with the simple knot and made by doubling one of
+the loose ends as shown in the diagram.
+
+=The Double Bow Knot= or rosette knot is begun in the same way. Care
+must be taken to keep the simple knot taut until the bow knot is
+completed. The ends must lie straight as in the reef knot or it will
+become the false knot.
+
+=The Double Twist Knot= is useful when small cords are used and
+tightness is required. The diagram below, upper left, shows how it is made.
+
+=The Tent Pole Knot=, below, lower left, is one that can be
+used to advantage by all who have to occupy tents or to travel much.
+It is a simple loop made by joining the two ends of a rope with a
+fisherman’s knot. This admits a short cross-bar or wooden pin and it
+will enable the traveler to suspend clothes or other articles around a
+tent pole. The cord may also be used for a toggle when two pieces of
+wood have to be joined together.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE TWIST KNOT TENT POLE KNOT
+
+RUNNING KNOT RUNNING KNOT CHECKED]
+
+=A Running Knot= with two ends is used when it is inconvenient to
+divide the rope. Unless the ends are at liberty it could not be used
+round a mast, but it can be easily slipped round a pier.
+
+This knot is frequently checked by a bow as shown in the diagram above,
+lower right.
+
+It is sometimes checked by a Flemish Knot or by a Check Knot. These two
+knots cannot be tied unless the ends are loose. They cannot be untied
+without assistance from a marlinespike or some similar contrivance.
+
+[Illustration: RUNNING KNOT CHECKED BY A FLEMISH KNOT (LEFT) AND BY A
+CHECK KNOT (RIGHT)]
+
+=The Stationer’s Knot= is handy for tying a parcel as it can be made
+rapidly and undone with ease. Make a running noose at the end of a
+piece of twine and bring it to the center of the parcel. Take the twine
+round the parcel at right angles, round the noose and making a bight
+slip it under as illustrated. A pull at the end releases the knot
+instantly.
+
+[Illustration: STATIONER’S KNOT]
+
+
+
+
+PURCHASES AND SLINGS
+
+
+=Single Whip=--rope rove through a single block fixed in any position.
+It is used for light work. No power is gained.
+
+=Double Whip=--rope rove through two single blocks--upper block a tail
+block, lower one movable hook block. The standing part of the fall is
+secured close to the tail block. The power gained is double.
+
+[Illustration: SINGLE WHIP DOUBLE WHIP RUNNER GUN TACKLE]
+
+=Runner=--a piece of rope rove through a single block with a standing
+eye in one end and pointed at the other. The power gained is double.
+
+=Gun Tackle=--two single blocks. Power gained--twice or three times
+according to which is the movable block.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+HANDY BILLY OR JIGGER
+
+WATCH OR LUFF TACKLE
+
+DOUBLE LUFF
+
+THREE-FOLD PURCHASE]
+
+=Jigger=--a small tackle for general use; a double block with a tail
+called a jigger and a single block with a hook. The standing part
+of the fall is spliced into the strop of the single block. Power
+gained--three or four times.
+
+=Handy Billy= is a small tackle for general use.
+
+=Up and Down Tackle=--a double and single block. The double block is
+fitted with a thimble, the single block is a hook block, fitted with a
+long strop. The standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of
+the single block. Power gained--three times.
+
+=Luff Tackle=--two hook blocks, one double and one single. The standing
+part of the fall of this tackle is spliced into a strop of the single
+block. It is sometimes rove through a becket in the single block and
+secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck of it. Power
+gained--three or four times.
+
+=Double Luff Tackle=--two double blocks.
+
+=Three-fold Purchase=--two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six or
+seven times.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+FOUR-FOLD PURCHASE
+
+SINGLE SPANISH BURTON
+
+DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON]
+
+=Four-fold Purchase=--two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight times.
+
+=Single Spanish Burton=--two blocks and a hook. Power gained--three
+times. It is not in general use.
+
+=Burton=--a double hook block and a single hook block, fitted with a
+long strop, the standing part being spliced round the strop and hook
+of the single block. Power gained--three times.
+
+=Runner and Tackle=--consists of three blocks, one double and two
+single. One of the single blocks is fitted with a thimble, as a lashing
+or shackling block, through which the runner is rove. The double block
+of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The standing part of
+the tackle is spliced in the seat of the single block which is fitted
+with a long strop and hook. Power gained--eight times.
+
+=Double Spanish Burton=--There are two forms of this purchase. One by
+using three single blocks and the other by using one double and two
+single blocks. Power gained--five times.
+
+[Illustration: SPANISH WINDLASS]
+
+=A Spanish Windlass=--To rig a Spanish windlass take a good strand well
+greased in the center. Place the strand over the two parts of the rope
+that are to be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand up
+again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of the strand
+and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. Take a
+round turn with this round the bolt, put a marlinespike in each eye and
+heave around.
+
+=A Parbuckle= is used for hauling up or lowering down a cask, or any
+cylindrical object where there is no crane or tackle. Middle the rope
+to be used for the parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as
+most convenient; the two ends are then passed under the two quarters of
+the cask, bring the ends back again over it and they both being hauled
+taut or slackened together either raise or lower the cask as may be
+required. Care must be taken to keep an equal strain on both parts to
+prevent the cask slipping out.
+
+There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz., with butt slings,
+bale slings and head up, also by means of can hooks.
+
+[Illustration: PARBUCKLE BUTT SLINGS BALE SLINGS CAN HOOKS]
+
+=A Butt Sling= is a single piece of rope fitted with an eye splice in
+one end and the other end pointed or whipped. To sling the cask, the
+cask is placed on its bilge bung up; reeve the end of the sling through
+the eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one end of the
+cask between the first and second hoops and haul well taut, the eye
+splice being in line with the bungs; then take the end of the sling
+round the other end of the cask between the first and second hoops and
+clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the bung.
+
+=A Bale Sling= is a single piece of rope short spliced together. To
+sling a cask, the cask is placed on its bilge bung up, the slings
+passed underneath both ends of the cask between the first and second
+hoops; the bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight passed
+through the other, taking care the cross is in line with the bung.
+
+=Can Hooks= are used for breaking off a cask, that is for lifting out
+the first cask of a tier where there is not room to put on a butt or
+bale sling. Casks are never hoisted up with can hooks.
+
+=To pass a life line= dip the end under the slings and over the davit
+and take two or three turns round all parts and hold on to the end.
+
+To pass a life line for a “full due” proceed as above but substitute
+half hitches for round turns and tuck the end in.
+
+=To sling a cask= head up the cask is placed on its end, pass a rope
+under the bottom fairly in the center, then form an overhand knot with
+both ends of the rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and
+place bights over the head between the first and second loops, haul
+them well taut, then reef-knot both ends together on top.
+
+[Illustration: SLING A CASK ON END]
+
+=A Stropper= is used for securing a rope while it is being belayed.
+Take the stropper in the left hand, make a half hitch against the lay,
+dog the end with the lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed
+rope the end of the stropper should be passed under the rope from left
+to right. To put a strop on a hemp rope, center the bight of the strop
+and place it over the rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and
+over, and hook on the tackle to both bights.
+
+=To put a strop on a Spar= use the ordinary bale sling strop.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+TO PAN A STROPPER
+
+TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR
+
+TAIL JIGGER]
+
+=A Tail Jigger= is similar to a stropper but with an additional turn.
+To put on a tail jigger take the first two parts of a rolling hitch,
+dog the end with the lay and seize it.
+
+
+
+
+FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND RING KNOTS
+
+
+A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with which the sailor will
+handle big ropes and the way in which he will warp a vessel in or out
+of a dock or moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable
+round a post or cleat which are on the vessels themselves or on the
+pier-head.
+
+=The Simple Stoppered Loop= is familiar to all and when the end of the
+rope can be constantly used no other fastening is required.
+
+[Illustration: LARK’S HEAD SIMPLE STOPPERED LOOP]
+
+=A Lark’s Head= can easily be made over a post when there is a running
+noose or knot. This is clearly shown in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: WATERMAN’S KNOT TWISTED ROPE FASTENING]
+
+=The Waterman’s Knot= is used when the end of the rope is not stoppered
+or when the middle of the rope must be used. This is similar to the
+clove hitch. It can very quickly be made by placing two loops on the
+rope as shown in the diagram.
+
+The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated clearly in the
+diagram to the right of the Waterman’s Knot.
+
+[Illustration: TWO LOOPS OF A WATERMAN’S KNOT]
+
+=The Chain Fastening= is of a more permanent character, and is used
+when a vessel is to be moored for any length of time.
+
+[Illustration: CHAIN FASTENING]
+
+Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used for the mooring of
+vessels. In these instances the fastenings vary. The diagram shows a
+double fastening to sheaves.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE CHAIN FASTENING TO SHEAVES]
+
+=A loop fastening to sheaves= may be tied or untied without untying
+the loop itself. It is made by passing the loops, =A=, =B=, =C=, =D=,
+and =E= as shown and then placing the loop =F= over the head of the
+right-hand post of the sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable
+=F= will again slip over the head of the post and the turns and then
+reversed. There is a more simple fastening by wrapping the cable round
+the angle of the sheaves.
+
+[Illustration: LOOP FASTENING TO SHEAVES]
+
+=The crossed and square fastenings= as shown in the diagrams need no
+explanation. The ends are secured by being stoppered to the cable.
+
+[Illustration: CROSSED AND SQUARE FASTENING]
+
+[Illustration: SQUARE FASTENING]
+
+To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round turn, then a figure
+of 8 knot is made round the cleat pin and repeated twice. On no account
+should a half hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The main
+object is to insure that the rope will not jamb.
+
+[Illustration: TO SECURE A ROPE ROUND A BELAYING PIN OR ROUND A CLEAT]
+
+A study of the many knots used for fastenings or moorings show that
+they are only practical applications of many of the knots, bends or
+hitches that have already been illustrated in preceding chapters of
+this book.
+
+[Illustration: FIGs. 1 to 6]
+
+=The Sailor’s Knot= is a very simple mooring knot for the painter of
+a small boat. It is shown on Figs. 1 and 2. This knot shows one line
+straight while the end is twisted round in two hitches.
+
+=The Slippery Ring Knot= is shown in Fig. 3. It can be cast off at any
+moment. Fig. 4 shows the same knot but it is made permanent by being
+stoppered as seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn in the
+ring.
+
+=The Simple Boat Knot=, Fig. 5, has an advantage for rapidity of
+unmooring. It is made with only one turn in the ring. The loose end is
+left longer than in the diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring
+it is not very popular with sailors.
+
+=The Lark Boat Knot=, Fig. 6, is really a double boat knot. It differs
+from the boat knot in that a bight instead of a single end of rope is
+put through the ring and a thole used to fasten it.
+
+[Illustration: FIGS. 7 to 12]
+
+=The Boat Knot=, Fig. 7, is made in the same way as the marlinespike
+hitch, the only difference being that a thole pin or other small
+piece of wood is put through the center of the knot instead of a
+marlinespike. By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift of its own
+accord.
+
+=Simple and Crossed Running Knots= are shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The
+simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so secure, but chafes less than the
+crossed running knot, Fig. 9.
+
+=The Capstan Knot=, Fig. 10, is an application of the figure of 8 knot.
+To make this cross the end of the rope after it is through the ring,
+bring it round the standing part, through the first bight and through
+its own bight.
+
+=The Lark’s Head Knot=, Fig. 11, is somewhat like the lark boat knot
+but instead of the ends being brought down outside the bight after
+being passed through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen in
+the ring part of Fig. 11. The whole illustration shows a Lark’s Head
+stoppered.
+
+=The Lark’s Head Stoppered= may be made by passing a bight through the
+ring and drawing the two parts of the rope through the bight. Where
+this is not practical by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the
+end may be passed up through the ring behind the standing part and
+drawn down through the right and bight again. Sometimes instead of
+being stoppered with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. 11 the end is
+seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in Fig. 12.
+
+[Illustration: FIGs. 13 to 18]
+
+=The Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends= in Fig. 13 is made in the same way
+as the Lark’s head except that the end comes over instead of through
+the bight. If the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in the
+other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch or builder’s knot.
+
+=The Double Lark’s Head=, Fig. 14, is easily followed in the diagram. A
+bight is first made and the ends passed through it, the ends are then
+put through the ring and through the loop already made and hauled taut.
+
+=The Treble Lark’s Head=, Fig. 15, is not as difficult as it appears
+in the diagram. First bring the bight of the rope up through the ring,
+then take one of the ends and pass it through the bight and up through
+the ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do the same with the
+other part and the knot is formed.
+
+=Back-Handed Sailors’ Knots= are shown in Figs. 16 and 17. This knot
+is made by passing an end through the ring round at the back of the
+standing part and through the ring again, finishing with two half
+hitches round the standing part.
+
+[Illustration: A SLIP KNOT STOPPERED]
+
+=Slip Knots= stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above are easily made
+and the diagrams show their formation clearly.
+
+[Illustration: SLIP KNOT AND SLIP CLINCH]
+
+=Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch= is another simple knot and easily
+followed in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: GUNNER’S OR DELAY KNOT]
+
+=The Gunner’s Knot= is simply a carrick bend made with the two ends of
+a rope after it has been passed through two rings. This is sometimes
+called a delay knot.
+
+[Illustration: LEAD LINE AND LEAD]
+
+=Securing Lead Line to Lead.=--The lead is fitted with a good wire
+grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye spliced in
+it and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet and over the
+lead.
+
+=Hawsers= are bent together by two half hitches and seizing the ends in
+addition to methods already explained.
+
+[Illustration: BEND HAWSERS MOUSING A HOOK]
+
+=Mousing a hook= is to prevent a chain or rope from slipping off or to
+prevent it becoming unhooked. A few turns of a rope yarn are passed
+round the ends of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought
+round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef knot.
+
+
+
+
+LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC.
+
+
+A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a rope is necessary
+to anyone who has anything to do with a vessel no matter what its
+character. Occasions constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair
+weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that are fitted with
+eyes or with other loops.
+
+[Illustration: RUNNING KNOT IN THE EYE OF A ROPE]
+
+=A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope= is the simplest of these
+knots. The diagram shows how this is made.
+
+[Illustration: DEAD-EYE LASHING]
+
+=The Dead-Eye Lashing= is one of frequent use on board full-rigged
+ships. It admits of easy adjustment to the strain of the ropes. The ram
+blocks are fastened in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and
+tightened by the lanyards, =A=, =A=, which pass through holes on the
+dead-eye, so as to tighten or slacken the rope at will. The ends of the
+lanyard are fastened to the main rope.
+
+[Illustration: BELAYING-PIN SPLICE]
+
+=The Belaying-Pin Splice= as shown in the diagram really illustrates
+three methods of joining cordage. The belaying pin is marked =A=. It is
+stoppered on the end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through
+the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is formed. Through this
+loop or bend a button secured to the rope, =B=, by a single knot is
+passed, and the double junction is complete.
+
+=The Wedding Knot= or =Rose Lashing= is one to join two rope ends both
+having eyes. The lashing is passed successively through both eyes and
+then tied in the center.
+
+[Illustration: WEDDING KNOT (UPPER) SHELL LASHING]
+
+=The Shell Lashing= is made by looping two ends of rope around a
+spherical shell and seizing the end to the standing parts.
+
+[Illustration: A CROSS LASHING]
+
+=A Cross Lashing= is used when a lever is used to a rope. After several
+turns round the rope, the lashing is crossed round the lever and
+fastened with a reef knot.
+
+[Illustration: PORTUGUESE KNOT OR NECKLACE TIE]
+
+=The Portuguese Knot= or =Necklace Tie= is made by taking several
+turns round the spars to be joined, then two turns round the lashings
+and secured with a reef knot.
+
+[Illustration: NIPPERING OR PACKING]
+
+=Nippering= or =Packing= is a method for securing two ropes together
+with cross turns. These are hauled taut and further secured by round
+turns over all after the ropes have been jammed together. The ends are
+fastened with a reef knot.
+
+[Illustration: WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING]
+
+=A West Country Whipping= is formed by middling the twine around the
+part of the rope to be marked and half-knotting it at every half turn
+so that each knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number
+of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot.
+
+[Illustration: FINISHING A WHIPPING]
+
+To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay one end forward
+as at =A= in the diagram, then pass the other end round and round a
+sufficient number of times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose
+turns are then made and the end passed under these backwards. These
+ends are worked down into their places and when they are hauled taut
+are cut off.
+
+[Illustration: FINISHING A WHIPPING]
+
+Another method is, instead of having a single end, a bight of the
+seizing is laid along the part to be whipped and the turns passed over
+it. When these are completed the end is passed through the bight at
+=A=. The end =B= is then hauled upon to bring the bight and the end of
+the rope snug under the coils. There are now two loops interlacing at
+the center of the work and these cannot come undone. When the ends are
+cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth.
+
+[Illustration: A USEFUL BAND]
+
+A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The second end =B= is
+drawn through by a turn--a very useful method of securing a ligature or
+a fractured fishing rod.
+
+[Illustration: PACKING KNOT]
+
+=The Packing Knot= is used for binding timbers together. The first
+diagram shows it started at =A= and =B= shows it completed. It is
+tightened by means of a packing-stick, =C=, which is twisted under the
+knot and then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker plan is two
+toggles shown in the second diagram. After twisting the sticks round
+tie the two ends of the sticks together.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE PACKING KNOT]
+
+=A Toggle= is a piece of wood turned to shape and having a groove in
+the center round which the end of a rope is spliced. An eye is made
+in another rope by any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To
+unfasten it the ropes are slackened. Another form of toggle is a round
+piece of wood shaped like a button. It has a hole in the center
+through which a rope is passed and the end knotted.
+
+[Illustration: TOGGLES]
+
+=The Jury=, or =Double Pitcher Knot= as it is sometimes called, is
+useful when a jury mast has to be rigged, as the loops form a means of
+attaching the necessary supports to the mast. The center =K= in the
+second diagram is slipped over the masthead and the weight brought on
+the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast.
+
+[Illustration: JURY KNOT, FIRST STAGE]
+
+It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each placed behind the
+other with the loop of the last laid over the first. Keep the hitches
+together with the right hand and with the left take =A= and dip it
+under =B= and pull =C= through =A= and =B=.
+
+Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place =F= over =E= and pull
+=D= between =E= and =F=. Take =G= in the teeth and pull on the parts
+=G=, =F= and =A=. The ends =H= and =Z= may be either knotted or spliced.
+
+[Illustration: JURY KNOT, COMPLETED]
+
+=Racking Seizing= is used where the strain is on only one part of the
+rope. An eye splice is formed in one end of racking and the first turn
+is passed round both parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is
+then dipped between both parts and the remaining turns are passed as
+racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient space between each
+racking turn for a roundabout turn to lie, the usual number taken
+being thirteen. After these are passed the end is dipped down inside
+the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from the end towards
+the eye between the racking turns. When the last roundabout turn is
+passed, the end is passed up between both parts of the shroud, ready
+for passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the end along
+the seizing and passing it down between the seventh and sixth turns
+along the seizing, again towards the eye, up between the two parts of
+the shroud, as before, and again drawn between the seventh and sixth
+turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish off with a crown and
+wall as in other seizings.
+
+To make the racking neater after passing the last roundabout turn, the
+end is taken outside all parts of the racking instead of between the
+six and seven turns, and clove formed at the same time.
+
+[Illustration: RACKING SEIZING]
+
+
+
+
+SPLICING AND ROPE WORK
+
+
+It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables and even ropes in
+such a manner that there is no obvious difference in their diameter and
+no substantial weakening of their strength. This can be done only by
+splicing, that is, putting the ends together by opening the strands and
+placing them into one another, or if equal diameter is not essential
+by putting strands of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When
+ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. In driving ropes,
+too, knotting is out of the question. It is calculated that a splice
+will weaken the strength of a rope about one-eighth.
+
+[Illustration: SHORT SPLICE]
+
+=A short splice= is used for joining any rope not needed to travel
+through a block.
+
+To make a short splice unlay the rope to the required length which
+is twice the circumference of the rope for the long ends and one and
+a half times the circumference for the short ends. When this is done
+whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed together as shown
+in the first diagram, the strands of one rope alternately between the
+strands of the other. The two ropes are then jammed closely together.
+The end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are now held
+firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is better to put a lashing round
+the strands to keep them down to the rope on which they lie. The long
+ends are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the left hand
+over the first strand next to it and underneath the second strand. Haul
+it taut in the lay of the rope. Then enter the right-hand strand and
+lastly the middle strand in a similar manner to the first or left-hand
+strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. Put the long ends in
+again as before, cut the stop off the fork and put the short ends in
+once in a similar way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them
+off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the strands in
+once and a half each way, take a few of the underneath yarns from each
+strand to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and
+marl them down ready for serving.
+
+[Illustration: LONG SPLICE]
+
+=The Long Splice= has many advantages over the short one. To make it
+unlay the ends of two ropes to the length of five and a half times
+the circumference of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short
+splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space which it leaves
+with the opposite strand next to it. Then turn the rope round and lay
+hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective
+lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, with the other.
+Take one-third out of each strand, knot the opposite strands together
+and heave them well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand.
+Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends.
+
+[Illustration: EYE SPLICE]
+
+=An Eye Splice= is used by seafarers to splice round a block, dead-eye
+or thimble and is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short
+distance and then laying three strands upon the standing part so as to
+form an eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same manner
+as for the short splice. Then put the next end over that strand and
+through the second and put the remaining end through the third strand
+on the other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands and put
+them in again. To finish off split the strands and take half of each,
+seizing them together, and cut the ends off. When serving is used the
+strands should be tapered off.
+
+[Illustration: CHAIN SPLICE]
+
+=A Chain Splice= is used for splicing hemp tails into chain when
+required to travel through a block or fairlead, such as earrings and
+outhauls for forecastle and quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain
+splice unlay strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay the
+strand, =A=, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining strands, =B= and
+=C=, through the link in the end of the chain; continue unlaying the
+strand, =A=, and lay up strand, =B=, in its place for about a foot,
+then half knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the strand
+=C= as for an eye splice.
+
+[Illustration: CUT SPLICE]
+
+=A Cut Splice= is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated
+in the upper diagram. Leaving the ropes between =A=, =A=, to form an
+oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the
+eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.
+
+It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted strands of ropes.
+For this purpose a marlinespike is used for large ropes. This is made
+of iron, copper or hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust
+like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used for small stuff.
+For very large ropes a fid, which is a tapered wooden pin usually made
+of lignum vitæ, is used.
+
+[Illustration: MARLINESPIKE PRICKER (ABOVE)]
+
+=A Grommet= is a ring of rope. To make it cut a strand about three
+and one-half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope
+carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in
+the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram and then pass the
+ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are
+filled up as shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two ends
+as in a long splice.
+
+[Illustration: GROMMET]
+
+=An Artificial Eye= is made somewhat like a long splice. Take the
+end of a rope and unlay one strand; lay the two strands back to the
+standing part of the rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over
+the end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns down the
+standing part and lies under the eye with strands. Then divide the
+strands, taper them down and serve them over with spunyarn.
+
+[Illustration: ARTIFICIAL EYE FLEMISH EYE]
+
+=The Flemish Eye= is a little more difficult to make. The rope is
+first whipped and the strands unlaid to the whipping and opened out,
+separating each rope yarn. Take a piece of wood the size of the
+intended eye, =A=, between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch
+over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing them somewhat;
+seize the ends and worm them between the strands at the shoulder. Then
+marl all down, parcel and serve the ends.
+
+[Illustration: THROAT SEIZING]
+
+=Throat Seizing= is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to
+the standing part. The ring shown in the diagram is one of a variety
+occasionally used. It is useful to pass other ropes through in the
+rigging. Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a short
+piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping the short piece to
+give the requisite ring.
+
+[Illustration: SELVAGEE]
+
+=A Selvagee= is used to form a neat stropping for blocks or to go round
+a spar to which a hook is to be fastened. To make a selvagee strop
+drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any
+convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the
+same purpose. Put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart,
+according to the length of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope
+yarn and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass it round the
+other spike and keep passing roundabout turns, taking care to have
+every turn well taut until the strop is the required thickness. If it
+is to be a very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a small
+strop use two-rope yarn.
+
+[Illustration: SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE]
+
+=To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.=--To do this is
+necessary when a sail is increased by the addition of, say, one cloth.
+Then the foot rope must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth
+is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping the rope off
+four cloths, first cut the strand at the distance 2 feet 6 inches from
+each other, as shown in the diagram below.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Cut one strand at =A= and unlay it to =C=, then cut one of the
+remaining strands at =C= and unlay it to =B=, laying the strand =A= up
+again as far as =B=. Then cut the remaining strand at =B=, which will
+be the center, and the rope will be in two parts, as seen in the
+diagram above.
+
+Now marry the long end =A= to the end =B=, then lay up the long strand
+=A= and marry it to the other strand =B=, as in the diagram below.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same size rope and marry
+one end to the short strand =A=, as shown in the diagram. Fill up the
+space left from =A= to =C= by laying in the new strand and marry the
+other end to the short strand =C=. There will then be four splices to
+finish off as ordinary long splices.
+
+[Illustration: BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL]
+
+A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve it from wet or chafe.
+
+=Worming= is done to fill up the space between the strands of the rope
+with spunyarn or small rope, to render the surface smooth and round for
+parcelling and serving.
+
+=Parcelling= a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips
+of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 inches wide according to the size
+of the rope, before serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling
+overlapping the upper edge of the turn below it.
+
+[Illustration: WORMING PARCELLING SERVING]
+
+=Serving= is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn or other small
+stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn is put, or, hove on by a
+serving mallet which has a score in the underpart according to the size
+of the rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope. The
+sailor’s adage says:
+
+  Worm and parcel with the lay.
+  And serve the rope the other way.
+
+The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two
+or three coils. The serving mallet after being placed against the rope
+has two or three turns passed round its body and another turn or two on
+the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut as the mallet is
+worked round the rope by its handle. An extra man is needed for passing
+the ball of serving stuff. When the required length of service is put
+on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off.
+
+=To make a cringle= unlay a single strand from the rope the size the
+cringle is required to be. Whip both ends, reeve the strand through
+the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third
+longer than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward you. If
+a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the
+strand together, counting three lays. Commence with the short end of
+the strands toward you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking
+it through the cringle and it will be in right position to lay up in
+the vacant space left in the cringle. When done the one end will hand
+down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole and the other end outside the
+left-hand one. The ends are then hitched by being rove through their
+respective eyelet-holes and passed over the leech rope and under their
+own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you. Then
+take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of
+the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends under the first two strands
+nearest the hitch leaving them well in place. The cringle is then
+fidded out and the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The
+ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, under one strand,
+again under two right-handed as in the first place. Heave them taut in
+place at each tuck, whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut
+off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number of lays, 5, 7,
+9, etc., always an odd number.
+
+[Illustration: A CRINGLE]
+
+To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already told. After
+laying up the strand together instead of forming a hitch with each end,
+the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked back
+under two strands of the cringle and again laid up as far as the crown
+forming a four-stranded cringle. It is finished off by tucking the ends
+under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and
+cut off close.
+
+[Illustration: CRINGLE ON A CROWN]
+
+
+
+
+WIRE ROPE SPLICING
+
+
+In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to prevent kinks getting
+into the rope or strands. Once a kink is made no amount of strain can
+take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable
+should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an
+excellent one)--the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without
+kinks.
+
+With steel wire rope, always before working it put a stop on at the
+place to which you intend to unlay, and put a good whipping of twine at
+the end of each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made against the
+lay of the rope.
+
+In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a
+convenient position, so that when standing up the eye will be at about
+the level of the chest of the person working.
+
+A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and after placing it
+under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the
+slack of the strand drawn through.
+
+To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not
+been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the
+strands never take a short nip, but take long lays.
+
+In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two strands simultaneously
+to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about
+9 feet of each end.
+
+Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs of strands are in
+their places, single them and continue to unlay and lay in until the
+six meeting places of the strands are equidistant.
+
+To finish off the ends properly can only be learned by observation and
+actual practice. By using two marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed
+and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied,
+making a very neat job when finished.
+
+Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served.
+
+=Short Splice.=--The same procedure is gone through as for splicing
+hemp rope, only care must be taken to place a good whipping on where
+the ends marry, and that each strand prior to unlaying is whipped.
+The number of tucks taken should never be less than three whole and
+one-half and one-third, so as to taper the splice off. The number of
+tucks to be taken off varies according to the work required of the rope
+or strop, but as a rule the more the better.
+
+In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered in front of the
+marlinespike, which should not be withdrawn until this has been done,
+care being taken not to kink the strand.
+
+=Eye Splice.=--Make the crown of the eye, take half the girth of the
+thimble and rope to be used and put a good stout whipping on to the
+wire, break the wire into shape of the thimble and heave both parts
+of the wire together by means of the rigging screws supplied for this
+purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around both sides of the wire
+and thimble at the ends of the latter. Then remove the rigging screws
+and unlay the end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each strand
+and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. Then put a whipping on the
+ends of the six strands, commence the splice by tucking the right-hand
+strand first, then the others in succession, each strand under one.
+The left-hand strand being the last is tucked under two. This ensures
+that each strand takes a fair strain. Care should be taken to keep the
+strands straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well down with
+an iron hammer and put on a good seizing of spun yarn. Then tuck each
+strand a second time. Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three
+times full and tapered to a third.
+
+=Steel Wire Hawsers.=--The splices of the wire are made against the
+lay of the rope tucked three times with the full size of the strand and
+a fourth time with the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable
+taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the lay of the
+rope. The center core of the rope is removed on opening out the strands
+for splicing, and the cores of the strands removed after the first tuck
+has been made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times the
+girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the rope. The splice
+is then parcelled and served, the thimble tightly seized in with flat
+seizing crossed.
+
+=Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.=--This can be done either by
+the long or short splice, but the former is recommended, as the short
+splice, though equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In the
+long splice, if properly made, no such inequality exists; indeed the
+spliced part should be difficult to locate.
+
+To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference should have
+a splice not less than 60 feet to be safe, and smaller sizes in
+proportion down to 1½-inch circumference, for which size 25 feet will
+do. Take the 3½-inch rope as an example.
+
+Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a sound marline
+serving at those points. Then cut off the end servings and tie the
+strands together in twos and interlock, as shown in the diagram.
+
+[Illustration: SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND]
+
+Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite close together,
+otherwise rope has a tendency to open out further back and thus throw
+the length wrong. Then open strands out singly and snip off short six
+of the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to say, leave
+a long end in each case opposite one of the snipped ends. Take each
+of the short ends in turn and carefully unlay them, at the same time
+laying in its place the corresponding long end.
+
+This should be done with all the strands, and reckoning from the center
+on each side, the first one should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15
+feet, and the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally as
+shown in the lower diagram.
+
+Then commence at the first strand at either end. First put the
+marlinespike through the center of the rope where the ends cross, cut
+and remove the hemp heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two
+spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed and follow up
+to the end of the strand, pulling out the heart a few inches at a time.
+
+Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no empty space is left in
+the center of the rope by cutting of the hemp core further away than
+the strand end will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each end
+with parcelling before it is put into the center of the rope, as this
+tends to give parts of the splice a good grip of one another. To finish
+off and remove inequalities, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a
+heavy wooden mallet.
+
+[Illustration: A PAUNCH MAT]
+
+
+
+
+MATTING
+
+
+=A Paunch Mat= is used as a protection from chafe on shipboard.
+Stretch a piece of rope according to the size of the mat required in a
+horizontal position and fasten each end. Across this hanging by their
+middles, foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns twisted
+together by hand and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful
+of rope yarn. Beginning with the fox nearest the left hand twist a
+turn in the two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The next
+fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one part is given to the
+opposite man. The other part is twisted round the first which is given
+to the partner and then again round its own part with the other foxes
+until the required breadth is reached. Then as no more foxes are added
+and the outside on the right is brought over from time to time, a
+selvage is formed as on the left side. There is a little difficulty in
+starting but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each fox from
+the right passes over the next one to it on the left and is pushed
+back. The one that has been passed over being taken up first over the
+next and pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed tight
+as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a selvage is made by
+straining another piece of cord along the bottom securing both ends. As
+each fox comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox is laid
+at the back of it and so on alternately.
+
+[Illustration: SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM]
+
+=Sword Matting= is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two iron bars are slung
+in a horizontal position at the required distance apart for warping
+the mat off. Hitch one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar
+at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. The other end is
+then rove through the first hole in the loom over and under the other
+bar back through the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on
+until as many parts as are required for the breadth needed have been
+laid out. The last end is rove through a slit and secured to the bar at
+the end the mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom up,
+middle the fittings and lay it between the upper and lower parts. Then
+lower the loom and the parts that were lowest will rise in the slits
+and become the uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.
+
+[Illustration: SWORD MATTING]
+
+A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called a sword, is then
+inserted between the alternate parts of the warp and the crossing
+is driven close to the head against the bar over which the warp for
+weaving the mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure the
+crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. Haul it taut, take out
+the sword, lift up the loom and continue to pass the filling. Half knot
+it with two turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is usually
+made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate holes and slits in it.
+
+[Illustration: SPLICING A SWORD MAT]
+
+=To Splice a Sword Mat= unlay 6 or 7 inches of the mat, open the ends
+out, marry them together laying one up and one down flat along the mat.
+Withdraw the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles of
+the other mat through the holes they will come out of. All ends will
+then disappear from that side and there will be four rows of ends on
+the other. Turn the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side
+which have been married together, withdraw the ends belonging to one
+mat and introduce the corresponding ends of the other mat through the
+holes. Perform this operation on each mat and on each side there will
+be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on each side laying one
+up and one down and go on splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two
+or three rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all out on the
+same side and finish off as with selvaging.
+
+A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of sword mats
+together. Take a filling of roping twine, middle it and reeve each end
+through two bights in each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at
+each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back through the same bights
+as the upper end which will bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw
+the mats together and reeve both ends through two turns in each mat
+again, passing each other through the same hole opposite ways. Keep
+on doing this like stitching the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for
+calling it a cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch
+through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and cut off the ends.
+
+[Illustration: A THRUM MAT]
+
+=A Thrum Mat= is made of canvas and short yarns of equal length. These
+yarns are rove through holes stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the
+yarns being on the same side.
+
+=A Common Sennit= is made by taking three or four nettles according to
+the need required. Middle them over a belaying pin and plait three or
+four together the length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both
+parts together to form an eye and plait them by bringing the outside
+nettles on each side alternately over to the middle. The outside one is
+laid with the right hand and the remainder held firmly with the left
+hand. Work the whole together adding a nettle when necessary. After
+the eye is properly formed drop a yarn and continue to the end with an
+odd number. When it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a
+nettle at regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving its
+bight down and plait the other ends through this bight until they are
+all worked through it. Then haul on the end till the bight is taut. To
+secure all parts cut off the ends and whip it.
+
+[Illustration: SQUARE SENNIT ROUND FENDER]
+
+=A Square Sennit= is made somewhat in the same manner as the round
+sennit but without a heart. Nettles are used in the same ratio
+increasing by fours. Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends
+divide the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the uppermost
+left-handed nettle round underneath all and up inside two and over
+two of the right-handed ones. Cross over the latter ones to the left
+and make four on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the
+right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two and over two of
+the left-handed ones, still keeping four on a side, because the nettle
+taken up always comes round to its own side again. To proceed take
+the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish off as the round
+sennit is finished.
+
+[Illustration: A FENDER]
+
+=A Fender= is used to protect the sides of a boat. Sometimes it is
+made of wood but more often is of canvas stuffed with oakum and painted.
+
+To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope double the length
+of the fender. Unlay it, open the strands and comb them until all the
+yarns lie straight. Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling
+it down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small cords, such as
+log-line, is then spliced into the eye.
+
+=A Round or Pudding Fender= is made of a center or heart of rope yarn
+worked over a grafted with short pieces of rope yarn nettles. The
+nettles are first cut to the proper length and the middle part slightly
+twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thimble and a seizing put
+on. The heart or pudding may be of any old stuff such as old strands,
+spunyarn, etc. This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly
+over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned back over the
+eye and the other left lying down the heart. Pass a turn or two of
+twine or marline called the warp or filling round the fender where the
+nettles separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must now be
+brought down and those that are down turned over the eye. The warp is
+now passed again and hitched as before. This must be repeated until
+the whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as shown in the
+diagram. The ends of the nettles are brought round last turn of the
+warp and interlaced in the grafting.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE WEAVING]
+
+A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the diagram by which mats may
+easily be made. Take two pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive
+them into the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm.
+
+These should stand about a foot out of the ground. Then take a stick or
+a piece of wood and lash it across the upright stakes. Next drive a row
+of pegs into the ground. These pegs should be at equal distances apart,
+not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the lashed stick. Two sets
+of strings are then tied to the cross stick. The ends of one set are
+fastened to the sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in
+the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a dozen strings, then
+the odd numbered should be fastened to the sticks and the even numbered
+to the staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, placing
+a handful of straw or rushes between the strings at each movement and
+making them lie close, a good mat is made. These mats may be joined
+together with the cobbler’s stitch or by tying the string ends together.
+
+[Illustration: MALAY HITCH]
+
+The =Malay Hitch= is a name given by Captain Galton, a noted traveler,
+to a method for fastening boards or planks together to make a shelter.
+The cord is twisted once and then as each board is inserted this twist
+holds them sufficiently tight for temporary purposes.
+
+
+
+
+HAMMOCK MAKING
+
+
+At the mention of a hammock one’s mind naturally reverts to the sailor
+and at the same time thinks of the pleasure a good hammock will afford
+under some shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock making is quite
+easy and the tools necessary are simple. First, a netting needle is
+required. There are two styles of these needles, which are shown in
+the diagram. In the top one the cord is brought round the end at =A=,
+up one side, round the pin at =B= and back the same side, the process
+being repeated on the other side of the needle. This needle is made of
+hardwood such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by ¾ inch wide.
+
+The needle shown in the middle diagram has the cord wound round it as
+in an ordinary shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK]
+
+The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also shows a cross
+section, is made of hardwood or bone and is about 5 inches long and
+oval in shape.
+
+At one end of the string to be used for the net, tie a loop and place
+the knot on a nail fixed in some convenient position. Place the mesh
+stick under the loop as shown by =A= in the diagram, put the cord under
+it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull the cord taut.
+
+[Illustration: LOOP IN MESHING FIRST STAGE OF MESHING]
+
+Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord beyond the loop, as
+shown in the next diagram, and with a turn of the wrist of the right
+hand throw the cord to the position shown at =B=, then pass the needle
+under the loop =C=, through the bight =B= and down as at =D= and draw
+the knot tight.
+
+[Illustration: SECOND STAGE IN MESHING]
+
+When this has been done the loop will assume the shape seen in the
+diagram illustrating the third meshing stage. The cord must be held
+firmly with the thumb at =A= when pulling up the knots, as the
+uniformity of the meshes depends on this.
+
+To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and placed under =A=, in
+the third meshing diagram. The needle is then passed under the stick
+as before, brought through the loop =B= and as before to form another
+mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes, say forty-five or
+fifty, sufficient for the width of the hammock. The loop =A= originally
+tied is then unfastened and it will be found that the meshes are all of
+the same size.
+
+[Illustration: THIRD MESHING STAGE CHAIN OF MESHES]
+
+The chain is then opened out at right angles to the line in which it
+was made, shown in the next diagram, and working across is begun by
+making a mesh at =A=, then at =B=, =C=, and so on, until the length of
+the first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is turned over
+and another row of meshes worked in the same manner.
+
+To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops, =D=, =E=, =F=
+and =G=, separately on the hook or nail as the meshes under them are
+made. After a little practice a cord may be reeved through the top line
+of meshes, tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then over the
+foot as the work progresses.
+
+[Illustration: BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING HAMMOCK CLEW]
+
+An ash stick may be used at each end to which the end meshes are looped
+and tied, and a piece of codline may be passed through the side meshes
+on each side and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end a
+stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a triangle for
+hanging the hammock. Another plan is to tie a number of cords together
+by doubling them in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free
+ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The best plan is to
+reeve a cord about the size of a little finger through the end meshes
+and splice it into the form of a grommet. A thimble, =A=, is fixed in
+the end to which the supporting cords are attached and the cords which
+are reeved through the side meshes are spliced into the eye =B= at =C=.
+When these clews are used the net must be made longer than for sticks.
+
+
+
+
+STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC.
+
+
+Rope is measured by its circumference. A four-stranded rope is about
+one-fifth weaker than a three-stranded one.
+
+Generally blocks should be three times the size of the rope which it is
+intended to reeve in them.
+
+The hauling part bears twice the strain of the standing part of a fall,
+the pin of a block is often more worn on one of its sides than on the
+other and should be turned frequently.
+
+Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully examined at short
+intervals.
+
+
+BREAKING STRAINS, ETC.
+
+HAWSER-LAID ROPE RULE
+
+Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the breaking strain; in
+tons. Divide by 4 for the proof strain; divide by 6 for the working
+strain.
+
+
+WORKED EXAMPLE
+
+A rope 4 inches in circumference; required the breaking strain.
+
+             4 inches in circumference.
+      ×      4
+          ----
+      ÷  3) 16
+          ----
+  _Ans._   5.3 tons = breaking strain.
+          ====
+
+             4 inches in circumference.
+      ×      4
+      ÷  4) 16
+          ----
+  _Ans._     4 tons = proof strain.
+          ====
+
+             4 inches in circumference.
+      ×      4
+          ----
+      ÷  6) 16
+          ----
+  _Ans._   2.7 tons = working strain.
+          ====
+
+To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a tackle.
+
+Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending by the number of
+parts at the movable block and subtract ¼ of this for resistance.
+
+To determine the relative strength of chain and rope.
+
+Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1, using the diameter of
+the chain and the circumference of the rope; ½-inch chain may replace
+5-inch rope.
+
+Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used as a substitute for
+hempen rope.
+
+  Hemp Rope   Wire Rope
+   Inches      Inches
+      3         1½
+      4         1¾
+      5         2
+      6         2½
+      7         3
+      8         3½
+      9         4
+     10         4½
+     11         5
+
+
+STEEL WIRE ROPES
+
+1. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire making are:
+
+=Breaking Strain p.s.i.=--Extra plough steel, 110 to 120 tons. Mild
+plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best patent steel, 80 to 85 tons.
+Bessemer steel, 40 to 45 tons.
+
+2. =Specifications.=--Specification should state: (1) Length of rope.
+(2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4) Load, _exclusive of rope_. (5) If for
+wet workings. (6) Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves.
+
+3. =Working Load.=--The maximum working load at average speed,
+including weight of rope, should not exceed a tenth of the breaking
+strain as tabulated on page 156.
+
+4. =Sheaves and Barrels.=--Great care should be taken that wire
+ropes are not worked round drums or over pulleys of insufficient
+circumference, that they do not strike against any hard substance while
+in motion. They should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope
+in diameter.
+
+5. =Uncoiling.=--Much care should be taken in uncoiling wire ropes, to
+prevent kinking. The coil should not be laid stationary, but should be
+placed on a turntable or reel and unwound from the outer end.
+
+6. =Grease.=--To prevent corrosion, all working ropes should receive a
+regular dressing of wire rope grease thoroughly laid on.
+
+7. =Starting.=--The greatest strain on a rope being at the moment of
+starting, every care should be taken to insure perfect steadiness of
+movement, as jerking is ruinous to ropes.
+
+
+Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round Wire Ropes.
+
+  +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+  |  Diam. | Circumf. |  Lbs.  |               | Best  |  Best  |
+  |Inches. | Inches.  |  per   | Plough Steel  |Patent |Bessemer|
+  |        |          | Fathom.| Extra.| Mild. |Steel. | Steel. |
+  +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+  |        |          |        | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons.  |
+  |   ½    |    1½    |   2¼   |   8½  |   7½  |   6¼  |   3¼   |
+  |        |    1¾    |   3    |  11½  |  10   |   8½  |   4¼   |
+  |   ⅝    |    2     |   3¾   |  15¼  |  13   |  11   |   5½   |
+  |        |    2¼    |   5    |  19¼  |  16½  |  14   |   7    |
+  |   ¾    |    2⅜    |   5½   |  20   |  17¼  |  15½  |   8    |
+  |        |    2½    |   6¼   |  23¾  |  20¼  |  17½  |   8¾   |
+  |   ⅞    |    2¾    |   7½   |  28¾  |  24½  |  21   |  10½   |
+  |        |    3     |   8¾   |  34¼  |  29¾  |  25   |  12½   |
+  | 1      |    3⅛    |   9½   |  36½  |  32   |  27   |  13½   |
+  |        |    3¼    |  11¼   |  40   |  34   |  29   |  14¾   |
+  |        |    3½    |  12¼   |  46½  |  39¼  |  34   |  17    |
+  |        |    3¾    |  14    |  53½  |  45¾  |  39   |  19½   |
+  | 1¼     |    4     |  16    |  61   |  54   |  44½  |  22¼   |
+  |        |    4¼    |  18    |  69   |  62   |  50   |  25    |
+  |        |    4½    |  20    |  77   |  70   |  56   |  28    |
+  | 1½     |    4¾    |  22½   |  86   |  76½  |  63   |  31    |
+  |        |    5     |  25    |  95   |  85½  |  70   |  34½   |
+  |        |    5¼    |  27    | 105   |  96   |  77   |  38½   |
+  | 1¾     |    5½    |  30    | 115   | 106   |  84   |  42    |
+  |        |    5¾    |  33    | 126   | 114   |  92   |  46    |
+  |        |    6     |  36    | 138   | 125   | 100   |  50    |
+  | 2      |    6¼    |  39    | 155   | 133   | 120   |  60    |
+  +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+  Artificial Eye, 119
+
+
+  Back-Handed Sailor’s Knot, 97, 98
+
+  Bale Slings, 84, 85
+
+  Belaying Pin Splice, 102
+
+  Bend Hawsers, 100
+
+  Bend Shortening, 71
+
+  Bending Sheet to Clew of Sail, 123
+
+  Blackwall Hitch, 44
+
+  Boat Knot, Simple, 95
+
+  Boat Knot with Thole Pin, 96
+
+  Boltrope, 14
+
+  Bow Knot, Double, 74, 75
+
+  Bow Knot, Single, 74, 75
+
+  Bow Shortening, 71, 72
+
+  Bowline Bend, 47, 48
+
+  Bowline Knot, 25, 26
+
+  Bowline Knot, Standing, 28
+
+  Bowline on a Bight, 27
+
+  Bronze Rope, 18
+
+  Builders’ Knot, 73
+
+  Builders’ Knot, Double, 74
+
+  Buntline Hitch, 38
+
+  Burton, Spanish, Double, 82, 83
+
+  Burton, Spanish, Single, 81, 82
+
+  Butt Slings, 84
+
+
+  Cable-Laid Rope, 13
+
+  Can Hooks, 84, 85
+
+  Capstan Knot, 96
+
+  Carrick Bend, 48
+
+  Carrick Bend, Double, 48, 49
+
+  Catspaw, 72
+
+  Chain Fastening, 90
+
+  Chain Fastening to Sheaves, Double, 91
+
+  Chain Hitch, 49
+
+  Chain Knot, 68
+
+  Chain Knot, Double, 69, 70
+
+  Chain Splice, 115, 116
+
+  Clinch, Outside, 28
+
+  Clinch, Running or Inside, 28
+
+  Clinch, Simple, 28
+
+  Clove Hitch, 39, 73
+
+  Coir Rope, 14, 18
+
+  Crabber’s Eye Knot, 37, 38
+
+  Cringle on a Crown, 127
+
+  Cringles, 125, 126
+
+  Crossed and Square Fastening, 92
+
+  Crossed Running Knot, 30, 96
+
+  Cross Lashing, 103
+
+  Cross Netting, 150
+
+  Crowning, 56
+
+  Crown Knot, 57
+
+  Cut Splice, 116
+
+
+  Dead-eye Lashing, 101, 102
+
+  Diamond Knot, Double, 63, 64
+
+  Diamond Knot, Single, 62, 63
+
+  Dog Shank, 70, 71
+
+  Double Blackwall Hitch, 41, 42
+
+  Double Builders’ Knot, 74
+
+  Double Knot, 22
+
+  Double Wall Knot, 56
+
+  Durable Rope, 18
+
+
+  Englishman’s Knot, 33
+
+  Eye Splice, Rope, 115
+
+  Eye Splice, Wire Rope, 130
+
+
+  False Knot, 31, 32
+
+  Fender, Round or Pudding, 141
+
+  Fender, Soft, 142
+
+  Fibres, 12
+
+  Figure of 8 Knot, 21
+
+  Fisherman’s Bend, 46, 47
+
+  Fisherman’s Knot, 33
+
+  Five-Fold Knot, 22
+
+  Flemish Eye, 119
+
+  Flemish Knot, 76, 77
+
+
+  Galvanized Iron Wire, 18
+
+  Granny, 31, 32
+
+  Grommet, 118
+
+  Gunner’s Knot, 99
+
+
+  Half Hitch, 36
+
+  Half Hitch and Seizing Bend, 47, 48
+
+  Hammock Clew, 150
+
+  Hammock Lashings, 14
+
+  Hawser Bend, Simple, 47
+
+  Hawser Rope, 13
+
+  Hawsers, 18
+
+  Hemp Rope, 18
+
+
+  Junk, 14
+
+  Jury Knot, 108
+
+
+  Killick Hitch, 42, 43
+
+  Knot Shortening, 71, 72
+
+
+  Lanyards, 14
+
+  Lark Boat Knot, 94, 95
+
+  Lark’s Head, 88, 89, 96
+
+  Lark’s Head, Double, 97, 98
+
+  Lark’s Head, Stoppered, 96
+
+  Lark’s Head, Treble, 97, 98
+
+  Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends, 97
+
+  Lark’s Nest, 57
+
+  Lengthening the Rope of a Sail, 122
+
+  Long Splice, Rope, 114
+
+  Long Splice, Wire, 131
+
+  Loop Fastening to Sheaves, 91, 92
+
+  Loop Knot, 23, 24
+
+  Loop Knot for Large Cordage, 24
+
+  Loop or Bend Shortening, Simple, 71
+
+  Lubber’s Knot, 32
+
+
+  Magnus Hitch, 43
+
+  Malay Hitch, 145
+
+  Manila Rope, 18
+
+  Marling Hitch, 42
+
+  Marlinespike, 118
+
+  Marlinespike Hitch, 43, 44
+
+  Manrope Knot, 57, 58
+
+  Matthew Walker Knot, 59, 60
+
+  Matthew Walker, Double, 60, 61
+
+  Meshing Loop, 147
+
+  Metallic Rope, 18
+
+  Midshipman’s Hitch, 42
+
+  Mousing a Hook, 100
+
+
+  Necklace Tie, 103
+
+  Nettle Stuff, 14
+
+  Netting Needles, 146
+
+  Nippering or Packing, 104
+
+
+  Oakum, 14
+
+  Open-Hand Knot, 32
+
+  Ordinary Knot or Tie, 34
+
+  Overhand Loop, 21
+
+
+  Packing Knot, 106, 107
+
+  Parbuckle, 84
+
+  Parcelling, 124
+
+  Pass a Life Line, To, 85
+
+  Pass a Stropper, To, 86
+
+  Paunch Mat, 134
+
+  Pitcher Knot, Single, 23
+
+  Pitcher Knot, Double, 108, 109
+
+  Point a Rope End, To, 52, 53
+
+  Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie, 103
+
+  Pricker, 118
+
+  Purchases--
+    Burton, 81
+    Double Luff Tackle, 80, 81
+    Four-fold, 81
+    Gun Tackle, 79, 80
+    Handy Billy, 80
+    Luff Tackle, 80, 81
+    Runner, 79, 80
+    Runner and Tackle, 82
+    Three-fold, 80
+    Up and Down Tackle, 81
+    Watch Tackle, 80
+    Whip, Double, 79
+    Whip, Single, 79
+
+  Put a Strop on a Spar, 87
+
+
+  Racking Seizing, 109, 110, 111
+
+  Reef Knot, 31, 73
+
+  Roband Hitch, 39
+
+  Rolling Hitch, 40, 41
+
+  Rope, 11
+
+  Rope Yarn Knot, 35
+
+  Rose Lashing, 103
+
+  Round Fender, 143
+
+  Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, 43, 44
+
+  Running Bowline, 26
+
+  Running Knot, 75, 76, 77
+
+  Running Knot Checked, 75, 76
+
+  Running Knot Crossed, 30, 96
+
+  Running Knot in Eye of a Rope, 101
+
+  Running Knot, Simple, 96
+
+  Running Knot with Check Knot, 24
+
+  Running Noose, 29, 30
+
+
+  Sailors’ Knot Fastening, 94
+
+  Secure Lead Line to Lead, 100
+
+  Secure a Rope Round a Belaying Pin, 93
+
+  Secure a Rope Around a Cleat, 93
+
+  Selvagees, 120, 121
+
+  Sennit, 14
+
+  Sennit, Crown, 140
+
+  Sennit, Square, 141
+
+  Serving, 124
+
+  Shell Lashing, 103
+
+  Sheep Shank or Dog Shank, 70, 71
+
+  Sheet Bend, 46, 47
+
+  Shortening Tie, 34
+
+  Short Splice, Rope, 112
+
+  Short Splice, Wire, 129
+
+  Shroud-Laid Rope, 13
+
+  Shroud Knot, 64
+
+  Simple Boat Knot, 95
+
+  Simple Hitch, 21
+
+  Simple Knot, 21, 73, 74
+
+  Simple Running Knot, 23
+
+  Simple Stoppered Loop, 88
+
+  Single Plait or Chain Knot, 68
+
+  Six-Fold Knot, 23
+
+  Sling a Cask on End, 86
+
+  Slip Clinches or Running Knots Seized, 29
+
+  Slip Knot, Stoppered, 98
+
+  Slip Knot Secured by Slip Clinch, 99
+
+  Slippery Hitch, 39, 40
+
+  Slippery Ring Knot, 94
+
+  Snaking and Seizing, 65
+
+  Spanish Burton, 81, 82
+
+  Spanish Burton, Double, 82, 83
+
+  Spanish Windlass, 83
+
+  Spritsail Sheet Knot, 66
+
+  Spun Yarn, 14
+
+  Square Fastening, 93
+
+  Stationer’s Knot, 77, 78
+
+  Steel Rope, 18
+
+  Stopper Knot, 57, 58
+
+  Strands, 12
+
+  Stun’sail Halyard Bend, 44, 45
+
+  Sword Mat Splicing, 138
+
+  Sword Matting, 136, 137
+
+
+  Tail Jigger, 87
+
+  Tent Pole Knot, 75, 76
+
+  Throat Seizing, 120
+
+  Thrum Mat, 140
+
+  Timber Hitch, 36, 37
+
+  Timber Hitch for Towing Spars, 37
+
+  Toggles, 107
+
+  Tomfool Knot, 23
+
+  Topsail Halyard Bend, 45
+
+  Treble Knot, 22
+
+  Turk’s Head Knot, 58
+
+  Twine, 14
+
+  Twist Knot, Single, 69, 74
+
+  Twist Knot, Double, 74, 75
+
+  Twisted Rope Fastening, 89
+
+
+  Underhand Loop, 21
+
+  Useful Band, 106
+
+
+  Wall Knot, 54, 55
+
+  Waterman’s Knot, 89, 90
+
+  Weaver’s Knot or Tie, 32, 33
+
+  Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing, 102, 103
+
+  Weaving, Simple, 144
+
+  Whip a Rope, To, 50, 51
+
+  Whipping, American, 103
+
+  Whipping, To Finish, 105
+
+  Whipping, Palm and Needle, 51, 52
+
+  Whipping, West Country, 104
+
+  Wire Hawsers, Steel, 130
+
+  Wire Rope, 18
+
+  Wire Rope Eye Splice, 130
+
+  Wire Rope into Endless Band, To Splice, 131
+
+  Wire Rope Long Splice, 131
+
+  Wire Rope Splicing, 128
+
+  Wire Splice, Short, 129
+
+  Worming, 124
+
+
+  Yarn, 12
+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes.
+
+Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=.
+Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
+
+Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected
+silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised.
+
+To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between
+paragraphs. Where necessary, references to illustrations in the text
+have been modified to reflect the change in position.
+
+New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the
+public domain.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 ***