diff options
Diffstat (limited to '78376-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 78376-0.txt | 2963 |
1 files changed, 2963 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/78376-0.txt b/78376-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cfab280 --- /dev/null +++ b/78376-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2963 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 *** + + + + +[Illustration: RECRUITS AT THE NAVAL TRAINING CAMP, PELHAM BAY, N. Y., +LEARNING TO MAKE KNOTS] + + + + + KNOTS + + A study of Marlinespike Seamanship which + embraces Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings + and Splices and their Practical Application. + + With chapters on Cordage, Matting, + Hammock Making and Wire + Steel Work + + Compiled and Edited by + A. F. ALDRIDGE + + Dedicated to the Sailors + of the United States + + THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY + + 9 MURRAY STREET, NEW YORK CITY + + U. S. A. + + + + + _COPYRIGHT 1918_ + + BY + THE RUDDER PUBLISHING CO. + NEW YORK, U. S. A. + + _All Rights Reserved_ + + PRESS OF + THOMSON & COMPANY + 9 MURRAY STREET, NEW YORK + + + + +CONTENTS + + + Preface 7 + + History of Knots 9 + + Cordage 11 + + Rope and Its Care 15 + + Simple Knots and Loops 21 + + Knots for Uniting Ropes 31 + + Bends and Hitches 36 + + Knots Formed on Ropes by Their Own Strands 50 + + Shortenings 68 + + Ties 73 + + Purchases and Slings 79 + + Fastenings, Moorings and Ring Knots 88 + + Lashings and Seizings etc. 101 + + Splicing and Rope Work 112 + + Wire Rope Splicing 128 + + Matting 134 + + Hammock Making 146 + + Strength of Rope etc. 152 + + Index 157 + + + + +PREFACE + + +The study of knots is always fascinating. To twist ropes so that they +will hold and not break is an art that comes natural to the sailor and +the amateur will watch him in wonder as he does his work. Knots are +just as important in these days of steam vessels as they were in the +days of the sailing vessel, and now when thousands of men are being +trained to handle the fleets of vessels building tying knots is a part +of their training. + +At the Naval camps and the nautical schools the men are trained in +squads and with a little practice they soon acquire the art. To aid +those students this book has been published. It has been compiled from +American and British Government records and from many other sources, +so that it is as complete a collection of knots as it is possible to +obtain. + +It will be of great assistance to men of the U. S. Navy, U. S. Naval +Reserve, U. S. Junior Naval Reserve, the U. S. Nautical Schools and the +U. S. Power Squadrons who are working so loyally to aid their country +in its time of need. To these men this book is dedicated in the hope +that it may be of some help to them in their work. + + + + +HISTORY OF KNOTS + + +Knots, according to an ingenuous essayist, are probably as “old as +human fingers” and their history is lost in antiquity. Doubtless when +man was first placed on this earth he learned to make fastenings +from the tendrils of climbing vines and trailing flowers which twist +themselves into odd fastenings as they lift themselves from the earth. +The first cords were probably twisted grasses and rushes. Since those +early days knots, like Topsy, have “just growed” and man’s ingenuity +has enabled him so to arrange ropes and cords that they will sustain +weights, fasten various articles together and take up strains so that +they will hold under ordinary conditions. + +Seamen are credited with having devised the most knots. They have +invented ties upon which depend the safety of their ships and the lives +of those on board. Operatives in many trades such as building have +borrowed from the seamen their knots and applied them to their work. In +some instances the land operator has invented new knots or ties to suit +conditions not found on shipboard. + +To tie a knot properly or to be able to join ropes so that they will +hold and withstand heavy strains is so important with seamen that +careful attention is paid to the instruction of the men in this +particular work. At the many naval training camps scattered about +the country capable instructors show the recruits how to properly +make knots, ties, hitches, bends and splices, and until the recruit +knows how to handle ropes quickly and properly he is not much use at +sea. In the nautical schools, too, and in the divisions of the U. S. +Power Squadron much attention is paid to this part of the novice’s +instruction. + +The steamship is steadily driving the sailing vessel from the seas. +Of course on a sailing ship, where every spar is stayed by rope and +where all the sails, the propelling power, are handled by ropes, the +ability to properly tie knots is more important than on a vessel +driven by steam or oil engines, but on the powered vessel there are +many occasions when it is necessary to have a knowledge of knots, +particularly in handling cargoes, in making fast to piers or moorings, +in towing, in handling boats, and in hundreds of other instances so +that the steam engine is not making “marlinespike seamanship” a lost +art. + + + + +CORDAGE + + +Rope is a word that is taken to mean almost every pliable material. +Technically a rope is a cord one inch or more in diameter. It is +generally made of hemp, manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron or copper +wire. In studying the nature and uses of knots, particularly those +which come under the designation of splices, some knowledge of the +mode and of the principles on which ropes are made, is essentially +necessary. The simplest and most effectual mode of obtaining the united +strength of fibres composing the rope would be to lay them side by +side and fasten them together at each end as in the selvagee, which +is described on page 120. This plan, even if the fibres of hemp were +of the necessary length, would be open to many objections; hence it +was necessary to devise some plan which would give unlimited length to +the rope and at the same time preserve its torsion and portability. +This has been achieved by the compression and twisting of the fibres +in different directions, until they produce a compact, hard and strong +rope, neither breaking the fibres on the one hand nor leaving them so +loose as to be easily drawn out from the mass on the other--either +extreme would be equally fatal in its results and injurious to the +stability of the rope. This is achieved by the modern processes of rope +making. + +[Illustration: FIBRES TO CABLE] + +First the fibres of hemp are loosely twisted together, right-handed, +and form what is technically known as yarn. Two or three yarns twisted +together form a strand; three strands form a rope and three ropes a +cable. The diagram illustrates this clearly. =A= is a yarn teased out +to show the original fibre; =B= shows the yarn forming the strand; the +strands =C=, =H=, and =J= form the rope =D=; the ropes =D=, =F=, and +=G= form the cable =E=. + +A hawser rope is composed of three strands laid up generally +right-handed--that is, the direction taken by the strands in forming +the rope always runs from left to right. + +A shroud-laid rope, also laid right-handed, consists of four strands +with a heart in the center. + +A cable-laid rope is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes +laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said to consist of +nine strands, or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up +right-handed. + +[Illustration: HAWSER ROPE SHROUD-LAID ROPE CABLE-LAID ROPE] + +Spun yarn is a number of yarns twisted up right-handed. The number +varies from two to eight. + +Nettle stuff is made of two or three yarns laid together and is used +for making clews of hammocks, harbor gaskets, etc. + +Sennit is made of a number of yarns plaited up into square, round or +flat sennit as required and used for various purposes. + +Junk consists of lengths of condemned cordage 4 inches and above. + +Oakum is old rope unlaid and the yarns picked into hemp for caulking +the seams in ships’ decks or sides. + +Boltrope is cordage tarred and white, made of Italian hemp from ½ inch +to 6 inches. It is soft laid and well stretched and is used for roping +sails and awnings. + +Hammock lashings and lanyards are of white Italian hemp 1¼ inch. + +Coir rope is three-stranded right-handed rope. The yarn is spun from +the fibres of the cocoanut tree. It is one-third lighter than hemp but +not nearly so durable. It soon rots after being wet, if not well dried +before being stowed away. As it floats so light it is very useful for +warps and is about a quarter the strength of hemp rope. + +Twine is made from very fine hemp. + + + + +ROPE AND ITS CARE + + +Rope--and a sailor’s mind instantly pictures a ship. Ropes belong to +a ship in his mind’s processes and since man launched his first boat +on the water, rope has been in one form or another part of a boat’s +equipment. Savages probably had ropes before they had boats, but with +the development of the boat has come the development of rope into the +product of today. + +Did you ever stop to think why rope is so much used aboard ships? What +are the qualities which make it such a necessary part of a ship’s +gear? Ropes are primarily used to transmit power in a convenient way. +If sailors could grasp the sail in their hands and clew it up no +clew-lines would be necessary. But their arms are not long enough and +the power would be spread over such a large area that it would become +ineffective. A clew-line concentrates that power from that point of +application to a convenient place for the sailor to apply it. An iron +rod would do the same thing, you say. Yes, but an iron rod lacks two +essential qualities--lightness and flexibility. Flexibility is the +cardinal virtue of a rope. When not in use it can be coiled down to +a very small space and it can follow the wake of the worst helmsman +without fear of breaking its back. A chain is flexible, but its own +weight is so great that it is only of value for certain kinds of work. + +Ropes are made of organic material such as cotton, hemp, manila, grass, +and of metals such as iron, steel, bronze and sometimes aluminum. + +The class of organic materials is classified as to the material and the +manner in which they are made up. Grass, manila and hemp are spun into +rope, while cotton is spun, braided and knitted. Braided and knitted +ropes have the distinctive quality of being able to transmit torsional +stresses such as a flexible shaft and are used for this purpose in +the patent log-line. They are also free from turns, which makes them +valuable as signal halyards, though by the use of small swivels this +bad feature on spun rope has been overcome for use as signal halyards. +When you do use cotton, remember it has a great ability for shrinking. +Therefore, do not haul your halyards taut in dry weather and wonder why +they parted in the first rain-squall. + +If spun rope has ruined so many dispositions by the diabolical turn +which it can foul itself into--why use it? Because that very same +twist--the cause of so much cursing--is the secret of its strength. +Rope is subjected to a tension or pull along the line of its longest +axis. The thread is made of little fibres which are twisted together. +The threads are then twisted to make yarns or strands and the strands +twisted or spun into rope or lines. Rope or lines are made up into +hawsers. + +Take a coil spring and pull out the ends. If you put power enough on +the wire it straightens out. This is exactly what happens when you put +a strain on a rope; the twists or turns try to straighten out, and +lie in a straight line along the center. But there is yarn already +in the center, and the coils are pressing in on all sides, squeezing +it more and more as the load increases. Now the reason why the two +first fibres clung together when they were twisted was that this same +pressure made the friction between the fibres so great that they could +not slide by each other. This applies to the many hundreds of fibres +which make up the rope as a whole. So the harder the pull the harder +the squeeze and the harder it is for them to slip by each other. The +fact that some pieces of fibre are first on the outside and then on +the inside makes all get an equal share of the squeeze. Why does this +not go on indefinitely? Because up to a certain load the tendency to +cling together is greater than the reaction from the center, which has +to push them apart, but when this pressure or reaction becomes greater +than the friction the little fibres begin to slide and the ropes part. + +The smaller sizes of spun ropes of this organic class are designated by +the number of threads used to make up the rope, such as nine-thread or +eighteen-thread line. The larger sizes are designated by the number of +inches of circumference, such as one-inch, three-inch, etc. Hawsers are +measured by the circumference in inches. Spun ropes are three-stranded +or four-stranded. A three-stranded rope is more flexible than a four, +but a four has greater surface area for the same strength and weight +and therefore wears longer. + +Hemp rope is harder and less flexible than manila and is used for +standing rigging, while manila rope is used for running rigging. + +Grass or coir ropes are used where the rope is submerged often, as they +do not rot when damp and can be stowed wet. They are very elastic and +are specially used for towing light weights, such as targets in the +Navy. + +Just a few hints about this general class of organic ropes: + +Always dry these ropes before stowing them to prevent rotting. + +Protect them from chafing by use of chafing gear or reversing end for +end to bring the wear in different places. + +Always coil down right-handed or with the sun. + +The greater the surface the less the wear on any one strand, so use +four-stranded for ropes whose particular wear is from chafing such as +anchor warps, for small boats and boat-falls. A small size rope would +often be strong enough but would chafe through quicker. + +Metallic or wire ropes are generally either iron, steel, bronze or +combinations of metal strands spun with hemp or manila strands. + +Bronze rope is used for tiller ropes because it is non-magnetic and +it will not rust. This is important, as tiller ropes are often in +inaccessible places. If it does not pass near your compass and it is +out where it can be easily examined and cared for to prevent rusting, a +flexible steel tiller rope is cheaper and stronger for the same weight +and also wears longer. + +Galvanized iron wire is used for standing rigging, and the rusting in +places where turns have broken the surface coating, such as around +thimbles of an eye splice, should be carefully looked for. Most sailors +think it wiser not to paint wire except for decorative purposes. If it +is painted be sure to remove all grease and water from the surface. + +Steel rope is used for running rigging because of its flexibility and +lightness. It is not adapted, however, for small boats. + +A combination of alternate strands of wire and hemp is made into rope +known as durable rope, and is used particularly for cargo falls and it +is more flexible and more easily handled. + + + + +SIMPLE KNOTS AND LOOPS + + +All knots are begun with loops or hitches. These may be single or +double as required. The simple hitch is self-explanatory, as are the +underhand and the overhand loops. The illustrations explain them +clearly. + + +[Illustration: SIMPLE HITCH UNDERHAND LOOP OVERHAND LOOP] + +=The Simple Knot= begins with one of these loops by passing the loose +end through the loop and then drawing it taut as shown in the diagram. + + +[Illustration: SIMPLE KNOT FIGURE OF 8 KNOT] + +=The Figure of 8 Knot= is known as the perfect knot. It is formed by an +overhand and an underhand loop overlapping each other and the loose end +passed through the loop. When drawn tight it bears a close resemblance +to the Arabic numeral 8, hence its name. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE KNOT NIPPED TREBLE KNOT OPEN] + +=The Double, Treble, Four-Fold, or Six-Fold Knots= may be called +compound knots. They are used often when it is necessary to shorten +a rope a few inches or to increase the size or strength of a holding +knot to prevent it passing through an eye or a block. These knots are +made by passing the end of a rope twice, three times, or as many times +as may be necessary, through a loop as shown in the Simple Knot. The +diagrams show a double knot loosely formed and when nipped or drawn +taut, and a treble knot in its open formation and pulled taut. + +[Illustration: FIVE-FOLD KNOT OPEN NIPPED] + +=The Five and Six-Fold Knots= present handsome coils and are useful to +travelers who do not wish to cut the precious cords of their baggage. + +From Simple knots the student passes to loops, nooses and running +knots. The Bight of a rope is the loop formed when a rope is bent back +on itself. The Standing Part is the principal portion or longest part +of the rope and the end is that part used in forming the knot or hitch. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE RUNNING KNOT LOOP KNOT] + +=The Simple Running Knot= is made by passing a hitch instead of the end +of a rope when making a simple knot. The variations of this knot are +numerous. When the loose end is knotted with a simple perfect or double +knot it forms one of the most useful and easily made loops. + +[Illustration: TOMFOOL KNOT] + +=The Tomfool Knot= is a double loop through a simple knot. This knot +is also known as the Single Pitcher Knot. It is said that this knot +has baffled many experts who profess to be able to break any knot. It +is made like the running knot. The firm end is then passed through the +open, simple knot so as to form a double loop or bow. If the wrists are +passed within the loops, the loops then drawn taut and the loose ends +tied firmly around the central part a pair of very good handcuffs is +furnished. + +[Illustration: LOOP KNOT FOR LARGE CORDAGE] + +=The Loop Knot= is the ordinary useful loop of everyday life and it +forms the foundation for many more elaborate knots and for shortenings. +A more ornamental and even stronger loop, which is well adapted for +large cordage, is made by the figure 8 knot. This loop, like the common +loop knot, when once made and has been subjected to a lengthened +strain, is very difficult to untie. In this case there is nothing +better than a running knot with a check knot, which is a modification +of the fisherman’s knot. A simple knot is tied over the running line as +shown in the figure. After use it may be easily drawn apart, the loop +slipped and the knot untied in very short time. + +[Illustration: BOWLINE KNOT] + +=The Bowline Knot= cannot slip and is therefore always used for +slinging a man for the purpose of doing some particular piece of work; +the workman sits in the sling. First take the part =Z= in the right +hand with =Y= in the left hand, place =Z= on =Y=, and, turning the left +hand over from you to the left, form a loop and reeve =C= as shown by +the dotted line and haul taut. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 RUNNING BOWLINE KNOT] + +=The Running Bowline= is used whenever a running noose is required. +Form a loop with a long end =C= lying underneath the standing part as +shown in Fig. 1. Now bring end =C= over part =Y= and with it form the +bowline knot on part =Z= as in the previous case it was formed on its +own part, when it will appear as in Fig. 2. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT] + +=The Bowline on the Bight= is used for lowering a man from aloft or +slinging a man over the ship’s side. Using both parts of the rope +together, commence as in making an ordinary bowline. To finish off, +open out bight =C=, taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted +line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut when it will appear +as in Fig. 2. + +=A Simple Clinch= is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a +small ring and securing, by a seizing, a small lashing at =D=. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE CLINCH RUNNING OR INSIDE CLINCH OUTSIDE CLINCH] + +=A Running= or =Inside Clinch= is formed by the end of a rope on its +own standing part and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot +of a sail. + +=An Outside Clinch= is formed in a similar way but the end, =C=, is +brought round on top; that is, away from the bight. + +=The Standing Bowline Knot= is formed by passing the loose end through +the lower loop of a figure 8 knot and seizing or tying the end with +small cord or marline. + +=Slip Clinches= are very easily made. They are really open running +knots seized instead of tied. + +[Illustration: STANDING BOWLINE AND SLIP CLINCHES SEIZED] + +=The Running Noose= is one of the most common and useful of running +knots used in commerce but it is only applicable to small cords. A +simple knot is made on the end of the cord which is then simply +knotted round. + +=The Crossed Running Knot= is useful in packing heavy goods as well as +a useful anchor fastening. + +[Illustration: RUNNING NOOSE CROSSED RUNNING KNOT] + + + + +KNOTS FOR UNITING ROPES + + +The most common knots, those used in everyday life, are to unite the +ends of two separate pieces of cord or rope. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 REEF KNOT] + +=The Reef Knot= is the simplest of all knots and always used when a +common tie is required. The two illustrations show how this knot is +made. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 1, be sure part =A= is +kept in front of part =B= as shown, and the end led in according to the +direction of the dotted line. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FALSE OR GRANNY KNOT] + +If the cords be of unequal thickness the knot will slip, form a loop +and part company, as shown in Fig. 1 above. If the ends are not +parallel to the rope it becomes the False Knot or Granny Knot. Figs. +2 and 3 show the difference. + +A better way to fasten two ropes of unequal size is to tie or seize the +ends (Fig. 1 below) and when this is done as shown the square knot or +reef can be made as usual. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 OPEN-HAND KNOT] + +=The Open-Hand Knot= is a good one for joining two ropes of unequal +diameter. It is very quickly made and has the recommendation of never +slipping or untying. If, however, a great strain is put on the rope it +is apt to break at the knot. The illustrations above, one showing the +open formation (Fig. 2), and the other its back view when drawn taut +(Fig. 3), explain the process of making. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 FIG. 3 WEAVER’S KNOT] + +=The Weaver’s Knot= is very useful in joining small cord or twine and +is the best for thread. The ends are crossed as in Fig. 1 and both +cords are held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The +right end, =A=, is then looped back over the left end and brought +under the thumb, where it is held fast, while the right-hand end, +=B=, is slipped through the loop. The knot (Fig. 3) is then formed by +tightening the right-hand cord. If cord thicker than thread is used, +the end, =B=, must be held between the thumb and finger of the left +hand while the knot is being drawn taut, as in Fig. 4 (below). + +[Illustration: FIG. 4 FIG. 5 FIG. 6 FISHERMAN’S KNOT] + +=The Fisherman’s= or =Englishman’s Knot= is of quite another character. +It is formed by two simple knots (Fig. 7) slipped over each cord as in +Fig. 5, and when drawn taut its front appearance is seen in Fig. 6. It +is used by anglers, as it may be separated by taking the ends =A= and +=B= in Fig. 6 so as to admit a third line. + +[Illustration: FIG. 7 FIG. 8 FIG. 9 ORDINARY KNOT OR TIE] + +=The Ordinary Knot= or =Tie= for uniting large ropes is shown in Fig. +8. It has all the advantages of the open-hand knot, with the additional +recommendations that it is easy to make, very strong and does not +strain the fibres of the rope. First make the simple knot (Fig. 7) and +then interlace the other cord in the manner shown in Fig. 8. When drawn +taut it has the appearance of Fig. 9. If the ends are whipped it is +really a neat and handsome as well as useful knot. + +[Illustration: SHORTENING TIE] + +=The Shortening Tie= is used when there is too much rope and where it +is necessary to use a large knot for the purpose of preventing its +running too far through the eye, ring or loop. It is formed by making +the figure of 8 knot at the end of a rope, then interlacing it with +another rope, and when drawn taut it has the appearance of the third +diagram. + +[Illustration: A ROPE YARN KNOT] + +=A Rope Yarn Knot= is for joining two yarns together and is clearly +shown in the diagram. + + + + +BENDS AND HITCHES + + +It is rather difficult to say where knots end and bends begin, because +a tie made in a particular way and under certain circumstances may be +called a knot, but differently constructed and under other conditions +it is called a bend or a hitch. The result is the same in each case. A +single hitch may be merely a loop formed in a rope. + +[Illustration: HALF HITCH TIMBER HITCH] + +=A Half Hitch= is used generally in conjunction with other hitches. +Its formation is easily seen from the diagram. + +=The Timber Hitch= is used to secure the end of a rope to a spar, also +for bending a rope round light cases, bales, etc., when provisioning +ships. It is formed by making a half hitch with rather a long end and +expanding the end backwards round its own part. It is used also with a +half hitch for towing spars, as shown in the diagram below. + +[Illustration: TIMBER HITCH FOR TOWING SPARS] + +=The Crabber’s Eye Knot= is not well known but is one that is not +likely to part when strained. To make it bring the end back to form a +loop, taking it first under and then over the standing part, up through +the main loop, over the standing bight again and up through its own +bight. Before the turns are hauled into their places, the knot will +slip on the part =A=, as in an ordinary knot. If the part =B= is hauled +upon the strand, =A=, which passes through the center knot, rises and +the coil which goes round it jambs, making the knot secure so that it +may be used as a running knot or otherwise, as desired. + +=A Buntline Hitch= is commenced as in making an outside clinch but +instead of putting on a seizing, the end is passed over and through the +bight, as clearly shown in the diagram. + +[Illustration: CRABBER’S EYE KNOT BUNTLINE HITCH] + +=The Clove Hitch= is really a jamming of two half hitches and is +generally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and +the end kept free for use for further purposes, as in securing ratlines +to the shrouds, and used also for securing the end of butt slings. Its +formation can be followed very easily in the diagrams. + +[Illustration: CLOVE HITCH] + +=The Roband Hitch= is very useful when a tackle, hook, ring or another +rope is to be fastened to a beam or spar. This is another simple +hitch, clearly illustrated in the diagram. + +[Illustration: ROBAND HITCH SLIPPERY HITCH] + +=The Slippery Hitch= is valuable because of the ease with which it can +be cast off in an emergency. It will hold securely while there is a +strain on the rope. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1 FIG. 2 ROLLING HITCH] + +=The Rolling Hitch= is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, but, +as can be seen from the figures, there is an intermediate round turn +between the first and last hitches. It will be seen that the round turn +in Fig. 2 is taken around both the standing part, =A=, and the larger +rope =B=. The great value of this hitch is that it does not slip, and +this can be rendered doubly sure by backing the end, =C=, round the +part, =D=, and securing the end with a strop. It is used for bending a +small rope to a larger one, for putting a tail jigger on a rope, and +for securing hammocks to gantlines. + +[Illustration: FIG. 3 FIG. 4 ROLLING HITCH] + +=The Double Blackwall Hitch= is made by taking the bight of the rope +and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing +it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing +the upper part on top of it. It holds better than the two preceding +hitches. + +=The Marling Hitch= is for lashing up hammocks or putting temporary +seizing on two ropes or spars. It is also used when making swabs. + +=The Midshipman’s Hitch= is used at times instead of a Blackwall Hitch +and it will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made by +first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and +placing it over the bill of the hook. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE BLACKWALL HITCH MARLING HITCH MIDSHIPMAN’S HITCH] + +=The Killick Hitch= is a modification of the timber hitch. After making +a timber hitch and hauling it taut, a single hitch is made and slipped +over the end of a stone. This makes a secure anchor on fishing grounds +on rocky coasts where an anchor will not hold. + +=The Magnus Hitch= is a method of securing a rope to a spar. Take the +end of the rope twice round a spar in front of the standing part, round +the spar again and then pass it through the last bight. + +[Illustration: KILLICK HITCH MAGNUS HITCH] + +=The Round Turn with Two Half Hitches= is used to secure a hawser to +the ring of a buoy and the rope in this case should be parcelled as +shown in the diagram. + +=The Marlinespike Hitch= is used for heaving the turns of a seizing +taut with a marlinespike or hooking the hook of tackle to any rope +where a small pull is required. It is formed by the standing part being +picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lays under the +standing part and over the sides of the loop. Its advantage is that it +never jams. + +[Illustration: ROUND TURN WITH TWO HALF HITCHES + +MARLINESPIKE HITCH + +BLACKWALL HITCH] + +=The Blackwall Hitch= is used for hooking a tackle to a rope and +bringing the fall of one jigger to the double block of another. It +consists of a half hitch, and as soon as any strain comes on it the +standing part, =A=, jambs the end part, =C=. By taking another round +turn at =B=, before passing =C= under =A=, it will hold more securely. + +[Illustration: STUN’SAIL HALYARD BEND] + +=A Stun’sail Halyard Bend= is simply a Fisherman’s bend with the end +backed again over the last round and under the first. + +[Illustration: TOPSAIL HALYARD BEND] + +=The Topsail Halyard Bend= is made by bringing the rope twice round the +spar, back over the standing part, under all turns, over two turns and +under the last. Then jamb all the coils close and haul taut. + +[Illustration: SHEET BEND] + +=The Sheet Bend=, as its name implies, is the method of attaching the +sheet to the clew of the sail. It is also used for securing boats’ lazy +painters to the Jacob’s ladders of the lower booms. In making a bend +the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming +reef knots, but an eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the +ropes as seen in the first diagram and the other rope’s end is then +rove through it in the various ways required. To form a Sheet Bend pass +the second rope’s end underneath the eye at point =A= and bring up +through the loop, then form with it a half hitch round =C= and =B=. It +will hold still better and is less likely to jamb, if the end is passed +round again as in the third diagram. This is called a Double Sheet Bend. + +[Illustration: FISHERMAN’S BEND] + +=The Fisherman’s Bend= is formed by taking two round turns around the +object to which the rope is to be secured and then backing the end +round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and the +second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half +hitch around its own part or by stopping it to it. The dotted line in +the first diagram shows the direction the end =C= must take. This bend +is used for bending a hawser to the ring of an anchor or a rope’s end +to a bucket. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE HAWSER BEND] + +=The Hawser Bend= is so easy as to be constantly used when only a +temporary purpose has to be served. + +[Illustration: BOWLINE BEND (UPPER) HALF HITCH AND SEIZING BEND] + +=The Bowline Bend= is the strongest of all knotted hawsers. It is +formed of two Bowline knots, one crossing the loop of the other as +shown in the diagram. + +=The Half Hitch and Seizing Bend= is used on hawsers which are to be +joined for a long period. Its formation is shown in the illustration +clearly. + +[Illustration: CARRICK BEND] + +=The Carrick Bend= is for bending two hawsers together when required +to go around a capstan. First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in the +upper diagram. Pass the second hawser under the first at =A=, bring up +through the eye =B=, back it over the cross at =C= and bring up again +towards you through the eye =B=, and then stop the ends of each hawser +to their own respective parts as shown in the lower diagram. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE CARRICK BEND] + +=A Double Carrick Bend= is formed in precisely the same way, but a +complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser and +then led up again through the eye and finished off. + +[Illustration: CHAIN HITCH] + +=The Chain Hitch= is used to attach a small rope to aid in pulling +a larger. When it is necessary to use a lever as a handspike the +fastening in the lower diagram is used. First a clove hitch is formed +to the spar and as many single hitches as required are then made. It +may be finished off with any secure knot. + + + + +KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS + + +If ropes, hawsers or cables are left with their ends unguarded, they +are sure to become untwisted or otherwise unmanageable. The same is +true in a lesser degree of lanyards and smaller ropes. These can easily +be secured with a fine whipping and the smaller yarns and threads by a +single overhand or other knot. The ends of ropes at sea are variously +treated. In some instances they are finely tapered to a point, to pass +easily through a block or ring. While some of these knots for guarding +the rope ends may seem fanciful they are by no means merely ornamental +and many of them play important parts in the standing rigging of a ship. + +At first glance some of these knots may appear to be very intricate and +difficult to make. They are not as difficult as their pictures would +seem to indicate and a little thoughtful study, carefully following the +explanatory diagrams, will smooth away all troubles. + +=To Whip a Rope= first lay the end of a length of twine along the +end of the rope, and then, commencing at the part furthest from the +rope’s end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and +the twine, as shown in the first diagram. Then lay the twine in the +form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken as seen +in the second diagram. To finish off take that portion of the loop +designated =A=, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and +part =B= of the twine until the loop is all used up. Pull through the +remainder snugly by part =C= and cut off short when no end of twine +will be visible as in the third diagram. + +[Illustration: WHIPPING A ROPE] + +=A Palm and Needle Whipping= is a permanent way of securing a rope’s +end from fraying and better than the whipping put on by hand. First +place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole +length of twine through. Take a number of turns round the rope with +the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and finish up by following +round with the needle between each strand, forming a series of +wrappings, and cut off the end of the twine. + +[Illustration: PALM AND NEEDLE WHIPPING] + +=To point a rope= first put on a stop at two and one-half times the +circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the +length for pointing. Unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the +strands, split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of +each yarn. A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger and +thumb left-handed. When the nettles are made up stop them back on the +standing part of the rope. Then with the rest of the yarns, form the +point by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife and marl them +down together with twine. Divide the nettles, taking every other one up +and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of twine which +is called the warp very taut round the part where the nettles separate +taking a hitch with the last turn. Repeat this process by placing +every alternate nettle up or down, passing the warp or filling, taking +a hitch each time until the point is to its required length. You may +either form a bight with the last lay by passing the warp through the +bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or, work a becket in the end +by taking a small piece of rope one-fourth the size of the rope, form a +bight, unlay the ends, and twist the six strands up again by two taking +some of the inside yarns and lay them up as the rope, then short splice +that and the becket together and marl it down. + +[Illustration: POINTING A ROPE] + +=The Wall Knot= is used for finishing off seizings forming a shroud +knot. It is also used on the end of a rope to prevent it unreeving. To +form a wall knot first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in +the first diagram below. + +[Illustration: WALL KNOT] + +Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand =A= in +the direction indicated, viz., under strand =B= and up between strands +=B= and =C= as in the second diagram. + +[Illustration: WALL KNOT IN MAKING AND FINISHED] + +Then with strand =B= form a similar loop, enclosing strands =A= and =C= +and bringing the end of strand =B= up between =A= and =D= as in the +first diagram above. + +Now with strand =C= form a similar loop enclosing strands =B= and =A= +by leading the end of strand =C= up through the loop =E= in strand =A= +as in the second diagram. Finally work all parts well taut, whip the +ends of the strands together and cut off short, at the bottom diagram. + +[Illustration: CROWNING] + +=A Double Wall Knot= is formed by making the single wall knot first +and not hauling it taut. Then take one end and bring it underneath the +part of the first walling next to it and push it up through the same +bight. Do the same with the other strands, pushing them up and through +two bights. If made this way it will have a double and a single crown. +A double wall double crowned is a continuation of the double wall. The +strands are laid by the side of those of the single crown and pushed +through the same bight in the single crown and down through the double +walling as shown in the illustration. The middle figure shows one +method of finishing a single wall by cutting off the strands and tying +them with twine. The double crowned wall knot may be finished by a +Lark’s Nest by interlacing the loose strands one within another by a +requisite number of turns over the pudding. This forms a knot at the +end of the rope. + +[Illustration: CROWN KNOT MANROPE KNOT STOPPER KNOT] + +=The Crown Knot= or crowning forms the basis of other knots. To make a +crown pass the bights of the first and second strands over the second +and third strands respectively, dip the end of the third down through +the bight of the first and work the knot into shape. Its construction +can be followed very easily in the diagram. Double crowning is done by +following round each strand again alongside the first lead. + +=The Manrope Knot= is used for securing the upper ends of the gangway +manropes. It is made by first forming a wall and then crowning it as in +the first diagram. Then follow round the wall again and lastly follow +round the crown, when the finished knot will appear as in the second +diagram. + +=The Stopper Knot= is used in the ends of stoppers and is made by +forming a wall and half a wall, putting on a good whipping about two or +three inches from the knot and cut off the ends. + +[Illustration: TURK’S HEAD KNOT] + +=The Turk’s Head Knot= is worked upon a rope with a piece of small +line. Take a clove hitch slack with the rope with the line round the +rope. Then take one of the bights formed by the clove hitch and put it +over the other, pass the end under, and up, through the bight which is +underneath. Then cross the bights again and put the end round again, +under, and up, through the bight which is underneath. After this follow +the lead and it will make a turban of three parts to each cross. + +[Illustration: SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT] + +=Single Matthew Walker Knot= is used for securing the standing part of +a rope or making beckets for buckets, etc. To make this knot begin as +for the wall knot but pass the first strand =A= under both =B= and =C= +as shown in the first diagram. Then pass =B= under both strands =C= and +=A=, and bring up through the first loop formed by =A=, shown in the +second diagram. + +[Illustration: THIRD PROCESS OF MATTHEW WALKER KNOT] + +Similarly pass =C= under =A= and =B= and bring up through the loops +first formed by =A= and =B= as seen in the third diagram. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE MATTHEW WALKER OPEN AND TAUT] + +=The Double Matthew Walker= is easily made when one notices the +difference between a single Matthew Walker and a wall knot. In the +wall knot each strand is simply interlaced with the strand immediately +on its right coming up through the loop formed by the second strand. +In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands +to its right coming up through the loop of the third strand. Another +evolution in the same order gives the double Matthew Walker. It is +formed as will be seen in the diagram by making each strand contain its +own loop, the other two strands and its own end, that is, each strand +leads up through its own bight after interlacing the other two. + +[Illustration: SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT MAKING] + +=The Single Diamond Knot= is made some distance from the end of a rope. +It is therefore necessary to unlay the rope considerably more than +is required in the preceding knots and as the strands will have to +be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in the strands as +much as possible. Now bring each of the three strands down alongside +the standing part of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold +them thus with the left hand. Take the first strand =A= as shown in +the diagram and putting it over the next, =B=, bring it up through the +bight of the third strand, =C=. + +[Illustration: DIAMOND KNOT] + +Take the end of the second strand over the third and up through the +bight of the first. The last strand is brought over the first and up +through the bight of the second. Haul taut and lay the rope up again. +The first diagram above shows the loops in their places with the ends +through them before they are hauled taut and the second diagram shows +the completed knot. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT] + +=The Double Diamond Knot= is made first like the single diamond and +then the ends are made to follow the lead of the single knot through +two single bights, the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last +strand passes through two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut +and laid up as for the manrope knot. + +[Illustration: SHROUD KNOT] + +=The Shroud Knot= is of use in joining two ropes together, particularly +in joining a stay or shroud that has been carried away. Each rope is +unlaid the necessary length and they are then brought close together. A +wall knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other as seen +in the first diagram. The completed knot is seen in the second diagram +but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in the +third diagram. + +[Illustration: SNAKING AND SEIZING] + +=Snaking= or =Seizing= is done by taking the end under and over the +outer turns of the seizing alternately, passing over the whole. The +whole may be whipped also with small twine. The ends of a four-stranded +rope may be thus secured. The end is first whipped as shown at =A= +in the diagram. The four strands are then opened out. They are then +brought down over the end in loops and the strands tied together, as in +the second diagram, or they may be simply brought down and bound to +the cable with twine, as shown in the third diagram. + +[Illustration: SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT] + +=A Spritsail Sheet Knot= is made by unlaying both ends of a rope and +bringing the two standing parts together as in the first diagram. +Grasp both parts of the rope at =A=, with the six strands form a wall +knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under 5, +5 under 6 and 6 under the loop formed by 1. Now lay any opposite two +of the strands across the top in an opposite direction and crown by +passing the other four, each in turn, alternately over and under these +two. Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward +direction alongside the strands forming the first walling. Now follow +round the walling again, when the strands will come through in an +upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning. Follow +through the crowning once more and cut off the short ends, when a +handsome and useful stopper knot will result as in the second diagram. + + + + +SHORTENINGS + + +Shortenings are, as the term implies, knots that take up the surplus +cord and keep the ends from being in the way. A piece of rope or cord +is often too long and to cut it would be waste, so a shortening knot is +used. Sometimes the tie, four, five or six-fold knots are used for this +purpose. + +[Illustration: SINGLE PLAIT OR CHAIN KNOT] + +=The Single Plait=, or as the sailor terms it, the Chain Knot, is the +commonest of all these knots. First make a running loop and then draw +the loose end through the loop and repeat this operation until all +excess of cord has been taken up. The end may be secured by bringing +the end of the rope through the loop or by passing a belaying pin +through the loop. These two methods are illustrated in the diagram. + +[Illustration: TWIST KNOT] + +=The Twist Knot= is an ordinary three plait, although it is formed with +one piece of rope. It is more useful than when formed of three separate +pieces, for the ends are fastened and it cannot come undone. To make +this twist hold the double loop in the left hand; the side =A= is then +brought over to =B=, with a half turn =B= is crossed over to =A= and +the process of an ordinary three plait is continued until the end of +the rope is reached, when the loose end is passed through the bight and +the knot is fastened and completed. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE CHAIN KNOT] + +=The Double Chain Knot= is very easily made, if the first loop is made +secure by a twist in the rope as shown in the diagram, and then pass +the loose end through the preceding loop right and left until the knot +is finished. + +[Illustration: SHEEP SHANK OR DOG SHANK] + +=The Sheep Shank=, or =Dog Shank= as it is sometimes called, is an +old-fashioned method of shortening a rope and can be used on any sized +cordage. It is used for shortening a rope which requires lengthening +again. Gather up the amount to be shortened in the form of the upper +illustration. Then with parts =A= and =B= form a half hitch round the +two parts of the bight as in the second figure. + +To render it still more dependable the bights =A= and =B= may be seized +or toggled to the standing parts as in the third and fourth figures. + +[Illustration: BEND SHORTENING] + +=Bend Shortening= or =Simple Loop= is a plain, useful expedient +for stout rope and has the merit of not injuring the ropes by an +unnecessary strain, or crossing the fibres of the hemp. It will not, +however, stand any great strain. + +[Illustration: BOW SHORTENING] + +=The Bow= or =Knot Shortening= is very quickly made. It is simply +an ordinary knot in the middle of a rope in which a double bend has +previously been made. It is not adapted to heavy ropes nor will it +stand a heavy strain. + +[Illustration: CATSPAW] + +=The Catspaw= is one of the easiest made loops to be used for hooking +on the block of a tackle or shortening up a bale sling stop. First +throw back a bight as shown in the first diagram. Then taking hold of +=A= and =B=, one in each hand, twist them up as in the second diagram. +Bring the two eyes =A= and =B= together and hook in the tackle. + + + + +TIES + + +When the many varieties of knots and ties are analyzed it will be found +that ties used in trades are all taken first from the mariner. The +sailor learned to fasten ropes so that they were able to take up all +strains evenly and to hold without chafing or without any undue strain +being put on any one part of the rope. Consequently when builders +erect scaffolding they use the ties and knots long known at sea. The +Clove Hitch is also known as the Builder’s Knot because it is used to +hold the scaffolding. The Clove Hitch is used by surgeons in cases of +dislocation. The Reef Knot is also used by surgeons to tie arteries +when performing operations. So it is with many other knots and because +of their uses for other than nautical work they have often received +other names. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE KNOT] + +=The Simple Knot= is the foundation for many ties. In the illustration +this knot is seen made around a mast or other solid substance. This +simple knot can at once become a clove hitch or the builder’s knot +which is illustrated on page 39. + +[Illustration: + +DOUBLE BUILDER’S KNOT SINGLE BOW KNOT + +DOUBLE BOW KNOT SINGLE TWIST KNOT] + +=The Double Builder’s Knot= is shown in the diagram above, upper left. +It is made in the same way as the clove hitch or builder’s knot except +that the end goes around again as before and underneath its own part +so making it much stronger. + +=The Single Bow Knot= is one of the most common of the knots in general +use. It is commenced with the simple knot and made by doubling one of +the loose ends as shown in the diagram. + +=The Double Bow Knot= or rosette knot is begun in the same way. Care +must be taken to keep the simple knot taut until the bow knot is +completed. The ends must lie straight as in the reef knot or it will +become the false knot. + +=The Double Twist Knot= is useful when small cords are used and +tightness is required. The diagram below, upper left, shows how it is made. + +=The Tent Pole Knot=, below, lower left, is one that can be +used to advantage by all who have to occupy tents or to travel much. +It is a simple loop made by joining the two ends of a rope with a +fisherman’s knot. This admits a short cross-bar or wooden pin and it +will enable the traveler to suspend clothes or other articles around a +tent pole. The cord may also be used for a toggle when two pieces of +wood have to be joined together. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE TWIST KNOT TENT POLE KNOT + +RUNNING KNOT RUNNING KNOT CHECKED] + +=A Running Knot= with two ends is used when it is inconvenient to +divide the rope. Unless the ends are at liberty it could not be used +round a mast, but it can be easily slipped round a pier. + +This knot is frequently checked by a bow as shown in the diagram above, +lower right. + +It is sometimes checked by a Flemish Knot or by a Check Knot. These two +knots cannot be tied unless the ends are loose. They cannot be untied +without assistance from a marlinespike or some similar contrivance. + +[Illustration: RUNNING KNOT CHECKED BY A FLEMISH KNOT (LEFT) AND BY A +CHECK KNOT (RIGHT)] + +=The Stationer’s Knot= is handy for tying a parcel as it can be made +rapidly and undone with ease. Make a running noose at the end of a +piece of twine and bring it to the center of the parcel. Take the twine +round the parcel at right angles, round the noose and making a bight +slip it under as illustrated. A pull at the end releases the knot +instantly. + +[Illustration: STATIONER’S KNOT] + + + + +PURCHASES AND SLINGS + + +=Single Whip=--rope rove through a single block fixed in any position. +It is used for light work. No power is gained. + +=Double Whip=--rope rove through two single blocks--upper block a tail +block, lower one movable hook block. The standing part of the fall is +secured close to the tail block. The power gained is double. + +[Illustration: SINGLE WHIP DOUBLE WHIP RUNNER GUN TACKLE] + +=Runner=--a piece of rope rove through a single block with a standing +eye in one end and pointed at the other. The power gained is double. + +=Gun Tackle=--two single blocks. Power gained--twice or three times +according to which is the movable block. + +[Illustration: + +HANDY BILLY OR JIGGER + +WATCH OR LUFF TACKLE + +DOUBLE LUFF + +THREE-FOLD PURCHASE] + +=Jigger=--a small tackle for general use; a double block with a tail +called a jigger and a single block with a hook. The standing part +of the fall is spliced into the strop of the single block. Power +gained--three or four times. + +=Handy Billy= is a small tackle for general use. + +=Up and Down Tackle=--a double and single block. The double block is +fitted with a thimble, the single block is a hook block, fitted with a +long strop. The standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of +the single block. Power gained--three times. + +=Luff Tackle=--two hook blocks, one double and one single. The standing +part of the fall of this tackle is spliced into a strop of the single +block. It is sometimes rove through a becket in the single block and +secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck of it. Power +gained--three or four times. + +=Double Luff Tackle=--two double blocks. + +=Three-fold Purchase=--two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six or +seven times. + +[Illustration: + +FOUR-FOLD PURCHASE + +SINGLE SPANISH BURTON + +DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON] + +=Four-fold Purchase=--two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight times. + +=Single Spanish Burton=--two blocks and a hook. Power gained--three +times. It is not in general use. + +=Burton=--a double hook block and a single hook block, fitted with a +long strop, the standing part being spliced round the strop and hook +of the single block. Power gained--three times. + +=Runner and Tackle=--consists of three blocks, one double and two +single. One of the single blocks is fitted with a thimble, as a lashing +or shackling block, through which the runner is rove. The double block +of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The standing part of +the tackle is spliced in the seat of the single block which is fitted +with a long strop and hook. Power gained--eight times. + +=Double Spanish Burton=--There are two forms of this purchase. One by +using three single blocks and the other by using one double and two +single blocks. Power gained--five times. + +[Illustration: SPANISH WINDLASS] + +=A Spanish Windlass=--To rig a Spanish windlass take a good strand well +greased in the center. Place the strand over the two parts of the rope +that are to be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand up +again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of the strand +and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. Take a +round turn with this round the bolt, put a marlinespike in each eye and +heave around. + +=A Parbuckle= is used for hauling up or lowering down a cask, or any +cylindrical object where there is no crane or tackle. Middle the rope +to be used for the parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as +most convenient; the two ends are then passed under the two quarters of +the cask, bring the ends back again over it and they both being hauled +taut or slackened together either raise or lower the cask as may be +required. Care must be taken to keep an equal strain on both parts to +prevent the cask slipping out. + +There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz., with butt slings, +bale slings and head up, also by means of can hooks. + +[Illustration: PARBUCKLE BUTT SLINGS BALE SLINGS CAN HOOKS] + +=A Butt Sling= is a single piece of rope fitted with an eye splice in +one end and the other end pointed or whipped. To sling the cask, the +cask is placed on its bilge bung up; reeve the end of the sling through +the eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one end of the +cask between the first and second hoops and haul well taut, the eye +splice being in line with the bungs; then take the end of the sling +round the other end of the cask between the first and second hoops and +clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the bung. + +=A Bale Sling= is a single piece of rope short spliced together. To +sling a cask, the cask is placed on its bilge bung up, the slings +passed underneath both ends of the cask between the first and second +hoops; the bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight passed +through the other, taking care the cross is in line with the bung. + +=Can Hooks= are used for breaking off a cask, that is for lifting out +the first cask of a tier where there is not room to put on a butt or +bale sling. Casks are never hoisted up with can hooks. + +=To pass a life line= dip the end under the slings and over the davit +and take two or three turns round all parts and hold on to the end. + +To pass a life line for a “full due” proceed as above but substitute +half hitches for round turns and tuck the end in. + +=To sling a cask= head up the cask is placed on its end, pass a rope +under the bottom fairly in the center, then form an overhand knot with +both ends of the rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and +place bights over the head between the first and second loops, haul +them well taut, then reef-knot both ends together on top. + +[Illustration: SLING A CASK ON END] + +=A Stropper= is used for securing a rope while it is being belayed. +Take the stropper in the left hand, make a half hitch against the lay, +dog the end with the lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed +rope the end of the stropper should be passed under the rope from left +to right. To put a strop on a hemp rope, center the bight of the strop +and place it over the rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and +over, and hook on the tackle to both bights. + +=To put a strop on a Spar= use the ordinary bale sling strop. + +[Illustration: + +TO PAN A STROPPER + +TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR + +TAIL JIGGER] + +=A Tail Jigger= is similar to a stropper but with an additional turn. +To put on a tail jigger take the first two parts of a rolling hitch, +dog the end with the lay and seize it. + + + + +FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND RING KNOTS + + +A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with which the sailor will +handle big ropes and the way in which he will warp a vessel in or out +of a dock or moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable +round a post or cleat which are on the vessels themselves or on the +pier-head. + +=The Simple Stoppered Loop= is familiar to all and when the end of the +rope can be constantly used no other fastening is required. + +[Illustration: LARK’S HEAD SIMPLE STOPPERED LOOP] + +=A Lark’s Head= can easily be made over a post when there is a running +noose or knot. This is clearly shown in the diagram. + +[Illustration: WATERMAN’S KNOT TWISTED ROPE FASTENING] + +=The Waterman’s Knot= is used when the end of the rope is not stoppered +or when the middle of the rope must be used. This is similar to the +clove hitch. It can very quickly be made by placing two loops on the +rope as shown in the diagram. + +The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated clearly in the +diagram to the right of the Waterman’s Knot. + +[Illustration: TWO LOOPS OF A WATERMAN’S KNOT] + +=The Chain Fastening= is of a more permanent character, and is used +when a vessel is to be moored for any length of time. + +[Illustration: CHAIN FASTENING] + +Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used for the mooring of +vessels. In these instances the fastenings vary. The diagram shows a +double fastening to sheaves. + +[Illustration: DOUBLE CHAIN FASTENING TO SHEAVES] + +=A loop fastening to sheaves= may be tied or untied without untying +the loop itself. It is made by passing the loops, =A=, =B=, =C=, =D=, +and =E= as shown and then placing the loop =F= over the head of the +right-hand post of the sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable +=F= will again slip over the head of the post and the turns and then +reversed. There is a more simple fastening by wrapping the cable round +the angle of the sheaves. + +[Illustration: LOOP FASTENING TO SHEAVES] + +=The crossed and square fastenings= as shown in the diagrams need no +explanation. The ends are secured by being stoppered to the cable. + +[Illustration: CROSSED AND SQUARE FASTENING] + +[Illustration: SQUARE FASTENING] + +To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round turn, then a figure +of 8 knot is made round the cleat pin and repeated twice. On no account +should a half hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The main +object is to insure that the rope will not jamb. + +[Illustration: TO SECURE A ROPE ROUND A BELAYING PIN OR ROUND A CLEAT] + +A study of the many knots used for fastenings or moorings show that +they are only practical applications of many of the knots, bends or +hitches that have already been illustrated in preceding chapters of +this book. + +[Illustration: FIGs. 1 to 6] + +=The Sailor’s Knot= is a very simple mooring knot for the painter of +a small boat. It is shown on Figs. 1 and 2. This knot shows one line +straight while the end is twisted round in two hitches. + +=The Slippery Ring Knot= is shown in Fig. 3. It can be cast off at any +moment. Fig. 4 shows the same knot but it is made permanent by being +stoppered as seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn in the +ring. + +=The Simple Boat Knot=, Fig. 5, has an advantage for rapidity of +unmooring. It is made with only one turn in the ring. The loose end is +left longer than in the diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring +it is not very popular with sailors. + +=The Lark Boat Knot=, Fig. 6, is really a double boat knot. It differs +from the boat knot in that a bight instead of a single end of rope is +put through the ring and a thole used to fasten it. + +[Illustration: FIGS. 7 to 12] + +=The Boat Knot=, Fig. 7, is made in the same way as the marlinespike +hitch, the only difference being that a thole pin or other small +piece of wood is put through the center of the knot instead of a +marlinespike. By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift of its own +accord. + +=Simple and Crossed Running Knots= are shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The +simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so secure, but chafes less than the +crossed running knot, Fig. 9. + +=The Capstan Knot=, Fig. 10, is an application of the figure of 8 knot. +To make this cross the end of the rope after it is through the ring, +bring it round the standing part, through the first bight and through +its own bight. + +=The Lark’s Head Knot=, Fig. 11, is somewhat like the lark boat knot +but instead of the ends being brought down outside the bight after +being passed through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen in +the ring part of Fig. 11. The whole illustration shows a Lark’s Head +stoppered. + +=The Lark’s Head Stoppered= may be made by passing a bight through the +ring and drawing the two parts of the rope through the bight. Where +this is not practical by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the +end may be passed up through the ring behind the standing part and +drawn down through the right and bight again. Sometimes instead of +being stoppered with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. 11 the end is +seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in Fig. 12. + +[Illustration: FIGs. 13 to 18] + +=The Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends= in Fig. 13 is made in the same way +as the Lark’s head except that the end comes over instead of through +the bight. If the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in the +other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch or builder’s knot. + +=The Double Lark’s Head=, Fig. 14, is easily followed in the diagram. A +bight is first made and the ends passed through it, the ends are then +put through the ring and through the loop already made and hauled taut. + +=The Treble Lark’s Head=, Fig. 15, is not as difficult as it appears +in the diagram. First bring the bight of the rope up through the ring, +then take one of the ends and pass it through the bight and up through +the ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do the same with the +other part and the knot is formed. + +=Back-Handed Sailors’ Knots= are shown in Figs. 16 and 17. This knot +is made by passing an end through the ring round at the back of the +standing part and through the ring again, finishing with two half +hitches round the standing part. + +[Illustration: A SLIP KNOT STOPPERED] + +=Slip Knots= stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above are easily made +and the diagrams show their formation clearly. + +[Illustration: SLIP KNOT AND SLIP CLINCH] + +=Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch= is another simple knot and easily +followed in the diagram. + +[Illustration: GUNNER’S OR DELAY KNOT] + +=The Gunner’s Knot= is simply a carrick bend made with the two ends of +a rope after it has been passed through two rings. This is sometimes +called a delay knot. + +[Illustration: LEAD LINE AND LEAD] + +=Securing Lead Line to Lead.=--The lead is fitted with a good wire +grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye spliced in +it and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet and over the +lead. + +=Hawsers= are bent together by two half hitches and seizing the ends in +addition to methods already explained. + +[Illustration: BEND HAWSERS MOUSING A HOOK] + +=Mousing a hook= is to prevent a chain or rope from slipping off or to +prevent it becoming unhooked. A few turns of a rope yarn are passed +round the ends of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought +round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef knot. + + + + +LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC. + + +A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a rope is necessary +to anyone who has anything to do with a vessel no matter what its +character. Occasions constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair +weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that are fitted with +eyes or with other loops. + +[Illustration: RUNNING KNOT IN THE EYE OF A ROPE] + +=A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope= is the simplest of these +knots. The diagram shows how this is made. + +[Illustration: DEAD-EYE LASHING] + +=The Dead-Eye Lashing= is one of frequent use on board full-rigged +ships. It admits of easy adjustment to the strain of the ropes. The ram +blocks are fastened in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and +tightened by the lanyards, =A=, =A=, which pass through holes on the +dead-eye, so as to tighten or slacken the rope at will. The ends of the +lanyard are fastened to the main rope. + +[Illustration: BELAYING-PIN SPLICE] + +=The Belaying-Pin Splice= as shown in the diagram really illustrates +three methods of joining cordage. The belaying pin is marked =A=. It is +stoppered on the end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through +the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is formed. Through this +loop or bend a button secured to the rope, =B=, by a single knot is +passed, and the double junction is complete. + +=The Wedding Knot= or =Rose Lashing= is one to join two rope ends both +having eyes. The lashing is passed successively through both eyes and +then tied in the center. + +[Illustration: WEDDING KNOT (UPPER) SHELL LASHING] + +=The Shell Lashing= is made by looping two ends of rope around a +spherical shell and seizing the end to the standing parts. + +[Illustration: A CROSS LASHING] + +=A Cross Lashing= is used when a lever is used to a rope. After several +turns round the rope, the lashing is crossed round the lever and +fastened with a reef knot. + +[Illustration: PORTUGUESE KNOT OR NECKLACE TIE] + +=The Portuguese Knot= or =Necklace Tie= is made by taking several +turns round the spars to be joined, then two turns round the lashings +and secured with a reef knot. + +[Illustration: NIPPERING OR PACKING] + +=Nippering= or =Packing= is a method for securing two ropes together +with cross turns. These are hauled taut and further secured by round +turns over all after the ropes have been jammed together. The ends are +fastened with a reef knot. + +[Illustration: WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING] + +=A West Country Whipping= is formed by middling the twine around the +part of the rope to be marked and half-knotting it at every half turn +so that each knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number +of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot. + +[Illustration: FINISHING A WHIPPING] + +To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay one end forward +as at =A= in the diagram, then pass the other end round and round a +sufficient number of times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose +turns are then made and the end passed under these backwards. These +ends are worked down into their places and when they are hauled taut +are cut off. + +[Illustration: FINISHING A WHIPPING] + +Another method is, instead of having a single end, a bight of the +seizing is laid along the part to be whipped and the turns passed over +it. When these are completed the end is passed through the bight at +=A=. The end =B= is then hauled upon to bring the bight and the end of +the rope snug under the coils. There are now two loops interlacing at +the center of the work and these cannot come undone. When the ends are +cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth. + +[Illustration: A USEFUL BAND] + +A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The second end =B= is +drawn through by a turn--a very useful method of securing a ligature or +a fractured fishing rod. + +[Illustration: PACKING KNOT] + +=The Packing Knot= is used for binding timbers together. The first +diagram shows it started at =A= and =B= shows it completed. It is +tightened by means of a packing-stick, =C=, which is twisted under the +knot and then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker plan is two +toggles shown in the second diagram. After twisting the sticks round +tie the two ends of the sticks together. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE PACKING KNOT] + +=A Toggle= is a piece of wood turned to shape and having a groove in +the center round which the end of a rope is spliced. An eye is made +in another rope by any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To +unfasten it the ropes are slackened. Another form of toggle is a round +piece of wood shaped like a button. It has a hole in the center +through which a rope is passed and the end knotted. + +[Illustration: TOGGLES] + +=The Jury=, or =Double Pitcher Knot= as it is sometimes called, is +useful when a jury mast has to be rigged, as the loops form a means of +attaching the necessary supports to the mast. The center =K= in the +second diagram is slipped over the masthead and the weight brought on +the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast. + +[Illustration: JURY KNOT, FIRST STAGE] + +It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each placed behind the +other with the loop of the last laid over the first. Keep the hitches +together with the right hand and with the left take =A= and dip it +under =B= and pull =C= through =A= and =B=. + +Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place =F= over =E= and pull +=D= between =E= and =F=. Take =G= in the teeth and pull on the parts +=G=, =F= and =A=. The ends =H= and =Z= may be either knotted or spliced. + +[Illustration: JURY KNOT, COMPLETED] + +=Racking Seizing= is used where the strain is on only one part of the +rope. An eye splice is formed in one end of racking and the first turn +is passed round both parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is +then dipped between both parts and the remaining turns are passed as +racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient space between each +racking turn for a roundabout turn to lie, the usual number taken +being thirteen. After these are passed the end is dipped down inside +the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from the end towards +the eye between the racking turns. When the last roundabout turn is +passed, the end is passed up between both parts of the shroud, ready +for passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the end along +the seizing and passing it down between the seventh and sixth turns +along the seizing, again towards the eye, up between the two parts of +the shroud, as before, and again drawn between the seventh and sixth +turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish off with a crown and +wall as in other seizings. + +To make the racking neater after passing the last roundabout turn, the +end is taken outside all parts of the racking instead of between the +six and seven turns, and clove formed at the same time. + +[Illustration: RACKING SEIZING] + + + + +SPLICING AND ROPE WORK + + +It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables and even ropes in +such a manner that there is no obvious difference in their diameter and +no substantial weakening of their strength. This can be done only by +splicing, that is, putting the ends together by opening the strands and +placing them into one another, or if equal diameter is not essential +by putting strands of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When +ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. In driving ropes, +too, knotting is out of the question. It is calculated that a splice +will weaken the strength of a rope about one-eighth. + +[Illustration: SHORT SPLICE] + +=A short splice= is used for joining any rope not needed to travel +through a block. + +To make a short splice unlay the rope to the required length which +is twice the circumference of the rope for the long ends and one and +a half times the circumference for the short ends. When this is done +whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed together as shown +in the first diagram, the strands of one rope alternately between the +strands of the other. The two ropes are then jammed closely together. +The end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are now held +firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is better to put a lashing round +the strands to keep them down to the rope on which they lie. The long +ends are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the left hand +over the first strand next to it and underneath the second strand. Haul +it taut in the lay of the rope. Then enter the right-hand strand and +lastly the middle strand in a similar manner to the first or left-hand +strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. Put the long ends in +again as before, cut the stop off the fork and put the short ends in +once in a similar way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them +off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the strands in +once and a half each way, take a few of the underneath yarns from each +strand to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and +marl them down ready for serving. + +[Illustration: LONG SPLICE] + +=The Long Splice= has many advantages over the short one. To make it +unlay the ends of two ropes to the length of five and a half times +the circumference of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short +splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space which it leaves +with the opposite strand next to it. Then turn the rope round and lay +hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective +lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, with the other. +Take one-third out of each strand, knot the opposite strands together +and heave them well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand. +Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends. + +[Illustration: EYE SPLICE] + +=An Eye Splice= is used by seafarers to splice round a block, dead-eye +or thimble and is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short +distance and then laying three strands upon the standing part so as to +form an eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same manner +as for the short splice. Then put the next end over that strand and +through the second and put the remaining end through the third strand +on the other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands and put +them in again. To finish off split the strands and take half of each, +seizing them together, and cut the ends off. When serving is used the +strands should be tapered off. + +[Illustration: CHAIN SPLICE] + +=A Chain Splice= is used for splicing hemp tails into chain when +required to travel through a block or fairlead, such as earrings and +outhauls for forecastle and quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain +splice unlay strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay the +strand, =A=, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining strands, =B= and +=C=, through the link in the end of the chain; continue unlaying the +strand, =A=, and lay up strand, =B=, in its place for about a foot, +then half knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the strand +=C= as for an eye splice. + +[Illustration: CUT SPLICE] + +=A Cut Splice= is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated +in the upper diagram. Leaving the ropes between =A=, =A=, to form an +oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the +eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served. + +It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted strands of ropes. +For this purpose a marlinespike is used for large ropes. This is made +of iron, copper or hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust +like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used for small stuff. +For very large ropes a fid, which is a tapered wooden pin usually made +of lignum vitæ, is used. + +[Illustration: MARLINESPIKE PRICKER (ABOVE)] + +=A Grommet= is a ring of rope. To make it cut a strand about three +and one-half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope +carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in +the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram and then pass the +ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are +filled up as shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two ends +as in a long splice. + +[Illustration: GROMMET] + +=An Artificial Eye= is made somewhat like a long splice. Take the +end of a rope and unlay one strand; lay the two strands back to the +standing part of the rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over +the end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns down the +standing part and lies under the eye with strands. Then divide the +strands, taper them down and serve them over with spunyarn. + +[Illustration: ARTIFICIAL EYE FLEMISH EYE] + +=The Flemish Eye= is a little more difficult to make. The rope is +first whipped and the strands unlaid to the whipping and opened out, +separating each rope yarn. Take a piece of wood the size of the +intended eye, =A=, between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch +over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing them somewhat; +seize the ends and worm them between the strands at the shoulder. Then +marl all down, parcel and serve the ends. + +[Illustration: THROAT SEIZING] + +=Throat Seizing= is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to +the standing part. The ring shown in the diagram is one of a variety +occasionally used. It is useful to pass other ropes through in the +rigging. Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a short +piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping the short piece to +give the requisite ring. + +[Illustration: SELVAGEE] + +=A Selvagee= is used to form a neat stropping for blocks or to go round +a spar to which a hook is to be fastened. To make a selvagee strop +drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any +convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the +same purpose. Put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart, +according to the length of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope +yarn and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass it round the +other spike and keep passing roundabout turns, taking care to have +every turn well taut until the strop is the required thickness. If it +is to be a very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a small +strop use two-rope yarn. + +[Illustration: SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE] + +=To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.=--To do this is +necessary when a sail is increased by the addition of, say, one cloth. +Then the foot rope must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth +is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping the rope off +four cloths, first cut the strand at the distance 2 feet 6 inches from +each other, as shown in the diagram below. + +[Illustration] + +Cut one strand at =A= and unlay it to =C=, then cut one of the +remaining strands at =C= and unlay it to =B=, laying the strand =A= up +again as far as =B=. Then cut the remaining strand at =B=, which will +be the center, and the rope will be in two parts, as seen in the +diagram above. + +Now marry the long end =A= to the end =B=, then lay up the long strand +=A= and marry it to the other strand =B=, as in the diagram below. + +[Illustration] + +Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same size rope and marry +one end to the short strand =A=, as shown in the diagram. Fill up the +space left from =A= to =C= by laying in the new strand and marry the +other end to the short strand =C=. There will then be four splices to +finish off as ordinary long splices. + +[Illustration: BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL] + +A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve it from wet or chafe. + +=Worming= is done to fill up the space between the strands of the rope +with spunyarn or small rope, to render the surface smooth and round for +parcelling and serving. + +=Parcelling= a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips +of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 inches wide according to the size +of the rope, before serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling +overlapping the upper edge of the turn below it. + +[Illustration: WORMING PARCELLING SERVING] + +=Serving= is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn or other small +stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn is put, or, hove on by a +serving mallet which has a score in the underpart according to the size +of the rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope. The +sailor’s adage says: + + Worm and parcel with the lay. + And serve the rope the other way. + +The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two +or three coils. The serving mallet after being placed against the rope +has two or three turns passed round its body and another turn or two on +the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut as the mallet is +worked round the rope by its handle. An extra man is needed for passing +the ball of serving stuff. When the required length of service is put +on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off. + +=To make a cringle= unlay a single strand from the rope the size the +cringle is required to be. Whip both ends, reeve the strand through +the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third +longer than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward you. If +a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the +strand together, counting three lays. Commence with the short end of +the strands toward you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking +it through the cringle and it will be in right position to lay up in +the vacant space left in the cringle. When done the one end will hand +down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole and the other end outside the +left-hand one. The ends are then hitched by being rove through their +respective eyelet-holes and passed over the leech rope and under their +own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you. Then +take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of +the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends under the first two strands +nearest the hitch leaving them well in place. The cringle is then +fidded out and the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The +ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, under one strand, +again under two right-handed as in the first place. Heave them taut in +place at each tuck, whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut +off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number of lays, 5, 7, +9, etc., always an odd number. + +[Illustration: A CRINGLE] + +To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already told. After +laying up the strand together instead of forming a hitch with each end, +the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked back +under two strands of the cringle and again laid up as far as the crown +forming a four-stranded cringle. It is finished off by tucking the ends +under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and +cut off close. + +[Illustration: CRINGLE ON A CROWN] + + + + +WIRE ROPE SPLICING + + +In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to prevent kinks getting +into the rope or strands. Once a kink is made no amount of strain can +take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable +should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an +excellent one)--the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without +kinks. + +With steel wire rope, always before working it put a stop on at the +place to which you intend to unlay, and put a good whipping of twine at +the end of each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made against the +lay of the rope. + +In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a +convenient position, so that when standing up the eye will be at about +the level of the chest of the person working. + +A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and after placing it +under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the +slack of the strand drawn through. + +To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not +been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the +strands never take a short nip, but take long lays. + +In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two strands simultaneously +to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about +9 feet of each end. + +Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs of strands are in +their places, single them and continue to unlay and lay in until the +six meeting places of the strands are equidistant. + +To finish off the ends properly can only be learned by observation and +actual practice. By using two marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed +and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, +making a very neat job when finished. + +Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served. + +=Short Splice.=--The same procedure is gone through as for splicing +hemp rope, only care must be taken to place a good whipping on where +the ends marry, and that each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. +The number of tucks taken should never be less than three whole and +one-half and one-third, so as to taper the splice off. The number of +tucks to be taken off varies according to the work required of the rope +or strop, but as a rule the more the better. + +In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered in front of the +marlinespike, which should not be withdrawn until this has been done, +care being taken not to kink the strand. + +=Eye Splice.=--Make the crown of the eye, take half the girth of the +thimble and rope to be used and put a good stout whipping on to the +wire, break the wire into shape of the thimble and heave both parts +of the wire together by means of the rigging screws supplied for this +purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around both sides of the wire +and thimble at the ends of the latter. Then remove the rigging screws +and unlay the end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each strand +and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. Then put a whipping on the +ends of the six strands, commence the splice by tucking the right-hand +strand first, then the others in succession, each strand under one. +The left-hand strand being the last is tucked under two. This ensures +that each strand takes a fair strain. Care should be taken to keep the +strands straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well down with +an iron hammer and put on a good seizing of spun yarn. Then tuck each +strand a second time. Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three +times full and tapered to a third. + +=Steel Wire Hawsers.=--The splices of the wire are made against the +lay of the rope tucked three times with the full size of the strand and +a fourth time with the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable +taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the lay of the +rope. The center core of the rope is removed on opening out the strands +for splicing, and the cores of the strands removed after the first tuck +has been made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times the +girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the rope. The splice +is then parcelled and served, the thimble tightly seized in with flat +seizing crossed. + +=Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.=--This can be done either by +the long or short splice, but the former is recommended, as the short +splice, though equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In the +long splice, if properly made, no such inequality exists; indeed the +spliced part should be difficult to locate. + +To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference should have +a splice not less than 60 feet to be safe, and smaller sizes in +proportion down to 1½-inch circumference, for which size 25 feet will +do. Take the 3½-inch rope as an example. + +Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a sound marline +serving at those points. Then cut off the end servings and tie the +strands together in twos and interlock, as shown in the diagram. + +[Illustration: SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND] + +Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite close together, +otherwise rope has a tendency to open out further back and thus throw +the length wrong. Then open strands out singly and snip off short six +of the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to say, leave +a long end in each case opposite one of the snipped ends. Take each +of the short ends in turn and carefully unlay them, at the same time +laying in its place the corresponding long end. + +This should be done with all the strands, and reckoning from the center +on each side, the first one should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15 +feet, and the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally as +shown in the lower diagram. + +Then commence at the first strand at either end. First put the +marlinespike through the center of the rope where the ends cross, cut +and remove the hemp heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two +spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed and follow up +to the end of the strand, pulling out the heart a few inches at a time. + +Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no empty space is left in +the center of the rope by cutting of the hemp core further away than +the strand end will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each end +with parcelling before it is put into the center of the rope, as this +tends to give parts of the splice a good grip of one another. To finish +off and remove inequalities, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a +heavy wooden mallet. + +[Illustration: A PAUNCH MAT] + + + + +MATTING + + +=A Paunch Mat= is used as a protection from chafe on shipboard. +Stretch a piece of rope according to the size of the mat required in a +horizontal position and fasten each end. Across this hanging by their +middles, foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns twisted +together by hand and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful +of rope yarn. Beginning with the fox nearest the left hand twist a +turn in the two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The next +fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one part is given to the +opposite man. The other part is twisted round the first which is given +to the partner and then again round its own part with the other foxes +until the required breadth is reached. Then as no more foxes are added +and the outside on the right is brought over from time to time, a +selvage is formed as on the left side. There is a little difficulty in +starting but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each fox from +the right passes over the next one to it on the left and is pushed +back. The one that has been passed over being taken up first over the +next and pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed tight +as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a selvage is made by +straining another piece of cord along the bottom securing both ends. As +each fox comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox is laid +at the back of it and so on alternately. + +[Illustration: SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM] + +=Sword Matting= is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two iron bars are slung +in a horizontal position at the required distance apart for warping +the mat off. Hitch one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar +at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. The other end is +then rove through the first hole in the loom over and under the other +bar back through the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on +until as many parts as are required for the breadth needed have been +laid out. The last end is rove through a slit and secured to the bar at +the end the mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom up, +middle the fittings and lay it between the upper and lower parts. Then +lower the loom and the parts that were lowest will rise in the slits +and become the uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp. + +[Illustration: SWORD MATTING] + +A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called a sword, is then +inserted between the alternate parts of the warp and the crossing +is driven close to the head against the bar over which the warp for +weaving the mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure the +crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. Haul it taut, take out +the sword, lift up the loom and continue to pass the filling. Half knot +it with two turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is usually +made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate holes and slits in it. + +[Illustration: SPLICING A SWORD MAT] + +=To Splice a Sword Mat= unlay 6 or 7 inches of the mat, open the ends +out, marry them together laying one up and one down flat along the mat. +Withdraw the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles of +the other mat through the holes they will come out of. All ends will +then disappear from that side and there will be four rows of ends on +the other. Turn the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side +which have been married together, withdraw the ends belonging to one +mat and introduce the corresponding ends of the other mat through the +holes. Perform this operation on each mat and on each side there will +be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on each side laying one +up and one down and go on splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two +or three rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all out on the +same side and finish off as with selvaging. + +A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of sword mats +together. Take a filling of roping twine, middle it and reeve each end +through two bights in each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at +each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back through the same bights +as the upper end which will bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw +the mats together and reeve both ends through two turns in each mat +again, passing each other through the same hole opposite ways. Keep +on doing this like stitching the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for +calling it a cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch +through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and cut off the ends. + +[Illustration: A THRUM MAT] + +=A Thrum Mat= is made of canvas and short yarns of equal length. These +yarns are rove through holes stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the +yarns being on the same side. + +=A Common Sennit= is made by taking three or four nettles according to +the need required. Middle them over a belaying pin and plait three or +four together the length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both +parts together to form an eye and plait them by bringing the outside +nettles on each side alternately over to the middle. The outside one is +laid with the right hand and the remainder held firmly with the left +hand. Work the whole together adding a nettle when necessary. After +the eye is properly formed drop a yarn and continue to the end with an +odd number. When it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a +nettle at regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving its +bight down and plait the other ends through this bight until they are +all worked through it. Then haul on the end till the bight is taut. To +secure all parts cut off the ends and whip it. + +[Illustration: SQUARE SENNIT ROUND FENDER] + +=A Square Sennit= is made somewhat in the same manner as the round +sennit but without a heart. Nettles are used in the same ratio +increasing by fours. Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends +divide the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the uppermost +left-handed nettle round underneath all and up inside two and over +two of the right-handed ones. Cross over the latter ones to the left +and make four on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the +right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two and over two of +the left-handed ones, still keeping four on a side, because the nettle +taken up always comes round to its own side again. To proceed take +the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish off as the round +sennit is finished. + +[Illustration: A FENDER] + +=A Fender= is used to protect the sides of a boat. Sometimes it is +made of wood but more often is of canvas stuffed with oakum and painted. + +To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope double the length +of the fender. Unlay it, open the strands and comb them until all the +yarns lie straight. Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling +it down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small cords, such as +log-line, is then spliced into the eye. + +=A Round or Pudding Fender= is made of a center or heart of rope yarn +worked over a grafted with short pieces of rope yarn nettles. The +nettles are first cut to the proper length and the middle part slightly +twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thimble and a seizing put +on. The heart or pudding may be of any old stuff such as old strands, +spunyarn, etc. This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly +over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned back over the +eye and the other left lying down the heart. Pass a turn or two of +twine or marline called the warp or filling round the fender where the +nettles separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must now be +brought down and those that are down turned over the eye. The warp is +now passed again and hitched as before. This must be repeated until +the whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as shown in the +diagram. The ends of the nettles are brought round last turn of the +warp and interlaced in the grafting. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE WEAVING] + +A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the diagram by which mats may +easily be made. Take two pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive +them into the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm. + +These should stand about a foot out of the ground. Then take a stick or +a piece of wood and lash it across the upright stakes. Next drive a row +of pegs into the ground. These pegs should be at equal distances apart, +not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the lashed stick. Two sets +of strings are then tied to the cross stick. The ends of one set are +fastened to the sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in +the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a dozen strings, then +the odd numbered should be fastened to the sticks and the even numbered +to the staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, placing +a handful of straw or rushes between the strings at each movement and +making them lie close, a good mat is made. These mats may be joined +together with the cobbler’s stitch or by tying the string ends together. + +[Illustration: MALAY HITCH] + +The =Malay Hitch= is a name given by Captain Galton, a noted traveler, +to a method for fastening boards or planks together to make a shelter. +The cord is twisted once and then as each board is inserted this twist +holds them sufficiently tight for temporary purposes. + + + + +HAMMOCK MAKING + + +At the mention of a hammock one’s mind naturally reverts to the sailor +and at the same time thinks of the pleasure a good hammock will afford +under some shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock making is quite +easy and the tools necessary are simple. First, a netting needle is +required. There are two styles of these needles, which are shown in +the diagram. In the top one the cord is brought round the end at =A=, +up one side, round the pin at =B= and back the same side, the process +being repeated on the other side of the needle. This needle is made of +hardwood such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by ¾ inch wide. + +The needle shown in the middle diagram has the cord wound round it as +in an ordinary shuttle. + +[Illustration: NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK] + +The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also shows a cross +section, is made of hardwood or bone and is about 5 inches long and +oval in shape. + +At one end of the string to be used for the net, tie a loop and place +the knot on a nail fixed in some convenient position. Place the mesh +stick under the loop as shown by =A= in the diagram, put the cord under +it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull the cord taut. + +[Illustration: LOOP IN MESHING FIRST STAGE OF MESHING] + +Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord beyond the loop, as +shown in the next diagram, and with a turn of the wrist of the right +hand throw the cord to the position shown at =B=, then pass the needle +under the loop =C=, through the bight =B= and down as at =D= and draw +the knot tight. + +[Illustration: SECOND STAGE IN MESHING] + +When this has been done the loop will assume the shape seen in the +diagram illustrating the third meshing stage. The cord must be held +firmly with the thumb at =A= when pulling up the knots, as the +uniformity of the meshes depends on this. + +To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and placed under =A=, in +the third meshing diagram. The needle is then passed under the stick +as before, brought through the loop =B= and as before to form another +mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes, say forty-five or +fifty, sufficient for the width of the hammock. The loop =A= originally +tied is then unfastened and it will be found that the meshes are all of +the same size. + +[Illustration: THIRD MESHING STAGE CHAIN OF MESHES] + +The chain is then opened out at right angles to the line in which it +was made, shown in the next diagram, and working across is begun by +making a mesh at =A=, then at =B=, =C=, and so on, until the length of +the first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is turned over +and another row of meshes worked in the same manner. + +To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops, =D=, =E=, =F= +and =G=, separately on the hook or nail as the meshes under them are +made. After a little practice a cord may be reeved through the top line +of meshes, tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then over the +foot as the work progresses. + +[Illustration: BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING HAMMOCK CLEW] + +An ash stick may be used at each end to which the end meshes are looped +and tied, and a piece of codline may be passed through the side meshes +on each side and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end a +stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a triangle for +hanging the hammock. Another plan is to tie a number of cords together +by doubling them in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free +ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The best plan is to +reeve a cord about the size of a little finger through the end meshes +and splice it into the form of a grommet. A thimble, =A=, is fixed in +the end to which the supporting cords are attached and the cords which +are reeved through the side meshes are spliced into the eye =B= at =C=. +When these clews are used the net must be made longer than for sticks. + + + + +STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC. + + +Rope is measured by its circumference. A four-stranded rope is about +one-fifth weaker than a three-stranded one. + +Generally blocks should be three times the size of the rope which it is +intended to reeve in them. + +The hauling part bears twice the strain of the standing part of a fall, +the pin of a block is often more worn on one of its sides than on the +other and should be turned frequently. + +Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully examined at short +intervals. + + +BREAKING STRAINS, ETC. + +HAWSER-LAID ROPE RULE + +Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the breaking strain; in +tons. Divide by 4 for the proof strain; divide by 6 for the working +strain. + + +WORKED EXAMPLE + +A rope 4 inches in circumference; required the breaking strain. + + 4 inches in circumference. + × 4 + ---- + ÷ 3) 16 + ---- + _Ans._ 5.3 tons = breaking strain. + ==== + + 4 inches in circumference. + × 4 + ÷ 4) 16 + ---- + _Ans._ 4 tons = proof strain. + ==== + + 4 inches in circumference. + × 4 + ---- + ÷ 6) 16 + ---- + _Ans._ 2.7 tons = working strain. + ==== + +To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a tackle. + +Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending by the number of +parts at the movable block and subtract ¼ of this for resistance. + +To determine the relative strength of chain and rope. + +Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1, using the diameter of +the chain and the circumference of the rope; ½-inch chain may replace +5-inch rope. + +Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used as a substitute for +hempen rope. + + Hemp Rope Wire Rope + Inches Inches + 3 1½ + 4 1¾ + 5 2 + 6 2½ + 7 3 + 8 3½ + 9 4 + 10 4½ + 11 5 + + +STEEL WIRE ROPES + +1. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire making are: + +=Breaking Strain p.s.i.=--Extra plough steel, 110 to 120 tons. Mild +plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best patent steel, 80 to 85 tons. +Bessemer steel, 40 to 45 tons. + +2. =Specifications.=--Specification should state: (1) Length of rope. +(2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4) Load, _exclusive of rope_. (5) If for +wet workings. (6) Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves. + +3. =Working Load.=--The maximum working load at average speed, +including weight of rope, should not exceed a tenth of the breaking +strain as tabulated on page 156. + +4. =Sheaves and Barrels.=--Great care should be taken that wire +ropes are not worked round drums or over pulleys of insufficient +circumference, that they do not strike against any hard substance while +in motion. They should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope +in diameter. + +5. =Uncoiling.=--Much care should be taken in uncoiling wire ropes, to +prevent kinking. The coil should not be laid stationary, but should be +placed on a turntable or reel and unwound from the outer end. + +6. =Grease.=--To prevent corrosion, all working ropes should receive a +regular dressing of wire rope grease thoroughly laid on. + +7. =Starting.=--The greatest strain on a rope being at the moment of +starting, every care should be taken to insure perfect steadiness of +movement, as jerking is ruinous to ropes. + + +Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round Wire Ropes. + + +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + | Diam. | Circumf. | Lbs. | | Best | Best | + |Inches. | Inches. | per | Plough Steel |Patent |Bessemer| + | | | Fathom.| Extra.| Mild. |Steel. | Steel. | + +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + | | | | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | + | ½ | 1½ | 2¼ | 8½ | 7½ | 6¼ | 3¼ | + | | 1¾ | 3 | 11½ | 10 | 8½ | 4¼ | + | ⅝ | 2 | 3¾ | 15¼ | 13 | 11 | 5½ | + | | 2¼ | 5 | 19¼ | 16½ | 14 | 7 | + | ¾ | 2⅜ | 5½ | 20 | 17¼ | 15½ | 8 | + | | 2½ | 6¼ | 23¾ | 20¼ | 17½ | 8¾ | + | ⅞ | 2¾ | 7½ | 28¾ | 24½ | 21 | 10½ | + | | 3 | 8¾ | 34¼ | 29¾ | 25 | 12½ | + | 1 | 3⅛ | 9½ | 36½ | 32 | 27 | 13½ | + | | 3¼ | 11¼ | 40 | 34 | 29 | 14¾ | + | | 3½ | 12¼ | 46½ | 39¼ | 34 | 17 | + | | 3¾ | 14 | 53½ | 45¾ | 39 | 19½ | + | 1¼ | 4 | 16 | 61 | 54 | 44½ | 22¼ | + | | 4¼ | 18 | 69 | 62 | 50 | 25 | + | | 4½ | 20 | 77 | 70 | 56 | 28 | + | 1½ | 4¾ | 22½ | 86 | 76½ | 63 | 31 | + | | 5 | 25 | 95 | 85½ | 70 | 34½ | + | | 5¼ | 27 | 105 | 96 | 77 | 38½ | + | 1¾ | 5½ | 30 | 115 | 106 | 84 | 42 | + | | 5¾ | 33 | 126 | 114 | 92 | 46 | + | | 6 | 36 | 138 | 125 | 100 | 50 | + | 2 | 6¼ | 39 | 155 | 133 | 120 | 60 | + +--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ + + + + +INDEX + + + Artificial Eye, 119 + + + Back-Handed Sailor’s Knot, 97, 98 + + Bale Slings, 84, 85 + + Belaying Pin Splice, 102 + + Bend Hawsers, 100 + + Bend Shortening, 71 + + Bending Sheet to Clew of Sail, 123 + + Blackwall Hitch, 44 + + Boat Knot, Simple, 95 + + Boat Knot with Thole Pin, 96 + + Boltrope, 14 + + Bow Knot, Double, 74, 75 + + Bow Knot, Single, 74, 75 + + Bow Shortening, 71, 72 + + Bowline Bend, 47, 48 + + Bowline Knot, 25, 26 + + Bowline Knot, Standing, 28 + + Bowline on a Bight, 27 + + Bronze Rope, 18 + + Builders’ Knot, 73 + + Builders’ Knot, Double, 74 + + Buntline Hitch, 38 + + Burton, Spanish, Double, 82, 83 + + Burton, Spanish, Single, 81, 82 + + Butt Slings, 84 + + + Cable-Laid Rope, 13 + + Can Hooks, 84, 85 + + Capstan Knot, 96 + + Carrick Bend, 48 + + Carrick Bend, Double, 48, 49 + + Catspaw, 72 + + Chain Fastening, 90 + + Chain Fastening to Sheaves, Double, 91 + + Chain Hitch, 49 + + Chain Knot, 68 + + Chain Knot, Double, 69, 70 + + Chain Splice, 115, 116 + + Clinch, Outside, 28 + + Clinch, Running or Inside, 28 + + Clinch, Simple, 28 + + Clove Hitch, 39, 73 + + Coir Rope, 14, 18 + + Crabber’s Eye Knot, 37, 38 + + Cringle on a Crown, 127 + + Cringles, 125, 126 + + Crossed and Square Fastening, 92 + + Crossed Running Knot, 30, 96 + + Cross Lashing, 103 + + Cross Netting, 150 + + Crowning, 56 + + Crown Knot, 57 + + Cut Splice, 116 + + + Dead-eye Lashing, 101, 102 + + Diamond Knot, Double, 63, 64 + + Diamond Knot, Single, 62, 63 + + Dog Shank, 70, 71 + + Double Blackwall Hitch, 41, 42 + + Double Builders’ Knot, 74 + + Double Knot, 22 + + Double Wall Knot, 56 + + Durable Rope, 18 + + + Englishman’s Knot, 33 + + Eye Splice, Rope, 115 + + Eye Splice, Wire Rope, 130 + + + False Knot, 31, 32 + + Fender, Round or Pudding, 141 + + Fender, Soft, 142 + + Fibres, 12 + + Figure of 8 Knot, 21 + + Fisherman’s Bend, 46, 47 + + Fisherman’s Knot, 33 + + Five-Fold Knot, 22 + + Flemish Eye, 119 + + Flemish Knot, 76, 77 + + + Galvanized Iron Wire, 18 + + Granny, 31, 32 + + Grommet, 118 + + Gunner’s Knot, 99 + + + Half Hitch, 36 + + Half Hitch and Seizing Bend, 47, 48 + + Hammock Clew, 150 + + Hammock Lashings, 14 + + Hawser Bend, Simple, 47 + + Hawser Rope, 13 + + Hawsers, 18 + + Hemp Rope, 18 + + + Junk, 14 + + Jury Knot, 108 + + + Killick Hitch, 42, 43 + + Knot Shortening, 71, 72 + + + Lanyards, 14 + + Lark Boat Knot, 94, 95 + + Lark’s Head, 88, 89, 96 + + Lark’s Head, Double, 97, 98 + + Lark’s Head, Stoppered, 96 + + Lark’s Head, Treble, 97, 98 + + Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends, 97 + + Lark’s Nest, 57 + + Lengthening the Rope of a Sail, 122 + + Long Splice, Rope, 114 + + Long Splice, Wire, 131 + + Loop Fastening to Sheaves, 91, 92 + + Loop Knot, 23, 24 + + Loop Knot for Large Cordage, 24 + + Loop or Bend Shortening, Simple, 71 + + Lubber’s Knot, 32 + + + Magnus Hitch, 43 + + Malay Hitch, 145 + + Manila Rope, 18 + + Marling Hitch, 42 + + Marlinespike, 118 + + Marlinespike Hitch, 43, 44 + + Manrope Knot, 57, 58 + + Matthew Walker Knot, 59, 60 + + Matthew Walker, Double, 60, 61 + + Meshing Loop, 147 + + Metallic Rope, 18 + + Midshipman’s Hitch, 42 + + Mousing a Hook, 100 + + + Necklace Tie, 103 + + Nettle Stuff, 14 + + Netting Needles, 146 + + Nippering or Packing, 104 + + + Oakum, 14 + + Open-Hand Knot, 32 + + Ordinary Knot or Tie, 34 + + Overhand Loop, 21 + + + Packing Knot, 106, 107 + + Parbuckle, 84 + + Parcelling, 124 + + Pass a Life Line, To, 85 + + Pass a Stropper, To, 86 + + Paunch Mat, 134 + + Pitcher Knot, Single, 23 + + Pitcher Knot, Double, 108, 109 + + Point a Rope End, To, 52, 53 + + Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie, 103 + + Pricker, 118 + + Purchases-- + Burton, 81 + Double Luff Tackle, 80, 81 + Four-fold, 81 + Gun Tackle, 79, 80 + Handy Billy, 80 + Luff Tackle, 80, 81 + Runner, 79, 80 + Runner and Tackle, 82 + Three-fold, 80 + Up and Down Tackle, 81 + Watch Tackle, 80 + Whip, Double, 79 + Whip, Single, 79 + + Put a Strop on a Spar, 87 + + + Racking Seizing, 109, 110, 111 + + Reef Knot, 31, 73 + + Roband Hitch, 39 + + Rolling Hitch, 40, 41 + + Rope, 11 + + Rope Yarn Knot, 35 + + Rose Lashing, 103 + + Round Fender, 143 + + Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, 43, 44 + + Running Bowline, 26 + + Running Knot, 75, 76, 77 + + Running Knot Checked, 75, 76 + + Running Knot Crossed, 30, 96 + + Running Knot in Eye of a Rope, 101 + + Running Knot, Simple, 96 + + Running Knot with Check Knot, 24 + + Running Noose, 29, 30 + + + Sailors’ Knot Fastening, 94 + + Secure Lead Line to Lead, 100 + + Secure a Rope Round a Belaying Pin, 93 + + Secure a Rope Around a Cleat, 93 + + Selvagees, 120, 121 + + Sennit, 14 + + Sennit, Crown, 140 + + Sennit, Square, 141 + + Serving, 124 + + Shell Lashing, 103 + + Sheep Shank or Dog Shank, 70, 71 + + Sheet Bend, 46, 47 + + Shortening Tie, 34 + + Short Splice, Rope, 112 + + Short Splice, Wire, 129 + + Shroud-Laid Rope, 13 + + Shroud Knot, 64 + + Simple Boat Knot, 95 + + Simple Hitch, 21 + + Simple Knot, 21, 73, 74 + + Simple Running Knot, 23 + + Simple Stoppered Loop, 88 + + Single Plait or Chain Knot, 68 + + Six-Fold Knot, 23 + + Sling a Cask on End, 86 + + Slip Clinches or Running Knots Seized, 29 + + Slip Knot, Stoppered, 98 + + Slip Knot Secured by Slip Clinch, 99 + + Slippery Hitch, 39, 40 + + Slippery Ring Knot, 94 + + Snaking and Seizing, 65 + + Spanish Burton, 81, 82 + + Spanish Burton, Double, 82, 83 + + Spanish Windlass, 83 + + Spritsail Sheet Knot, 66 + + Spun Yarn, 14 + + Square Fastening, 93 + + Stationer’s Knot, 77, 78 + + Steel Rope, 18 + + Stopper Knot, 57, 58 + + Strands, 12 + + Stun’sail Halyard Bend, 44, 45 + + Sword Mat Splicing, 138 + + Sword Matting, 136, 137 + + + Tail Jigger, 87 + + Tent Pole Knot, 75, 76 + + Throat Seizing, 120 + + Thrum Mat, 140 + + Timber Hitch, 36, 37 + + Timber Hitch for Towing Spars, 37 + + Toggles, 107 + + Tomfool Knot, 23 + + Topsail Halyard Bend, 45 + + Treble Knot, 22 + + Turk’s Head Knot, 58 + + Twine, 14 + + Twist Knot, Single, 69, 74 + + Twist Knot, Double, 74, 75 + + Twisted Rope Fastening, 89 + + + Underhand Loop, 21 + + Useful Band, 106 + + + Wall Knot, 54, 55 + + Waterman’s Knot, 89, 90 + + Weaver’s Knot or Tie, 32, 33 + + Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing, 102, 103 + + Weaving, Simple, 144 + + Whip a Rope, To, 50, 51 + + Whipping, American, 103 + + Whipping, To Finish, 105 + + Whipping, Palm and Needle, 51, 52 + + Whipping, West Country, 104 + + Wire Hawsers, Steel, 130 + + Wire Rope, 18 + + Wire Rope Eye Splice, 130 + + Wire Rope into Endless Band, To Splice, 131 + + Wire Rope Long Splice, 131 + + Wire Rope Splicing, 128 + + Wire Splice, Short, 129 + + Worming, 124 + + + Yarn, 12 + + +Transcriber’s Notes. + +Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=. +Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS. + +Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected +silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised. + +To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between +paragraphs. Where necessary, references to illustrations in the text +have been modified to reflect the change in position. + +New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the +public domain. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78376 *** |