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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
+will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
+using this eBook.
+
+Title: Sketches from Memory
+
+Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+Release Date: September 6, 2003 [eBook #9233]
+[Most recently updated: November 9, 2022]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+Produced by: David Widger and Al Haines
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
+
+
+
+
+Sketches from Memory
+
+by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+
+
+
+THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
+
+It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from
+Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends
+between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often as
+level as a church-aisle. All that day and two preceding ones we had
+been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,—those old
+crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our distant
+wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height after height had
+risen and towered one above another till the clouds began to hang below
+the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of the slides, those
+avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which descend into the hollows,
+leaving vestiges of their track hardly to be effaced by the vegetation
+of ages. We had mountains behind us and mountains on each side, and a
+group of mightier ones ahead. Still our road went up along the Saco,
+right towards the centre of that group, as if to climb above the clouds
+in its passage to the farther region.
+
+In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the
+Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart
+through some defile known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a wondrous
+path. A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans, was
+travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside as he
+passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand directly across
+his intended road. He tarries not for such an obstacle, but, rending it
+asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, discloses its treasures of
+hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all the secrets of the mountain’s
+inmost heart, with a mighty fracture of rugged precipices on each side.
+This is the Notch of the White Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted
+to describe it by so mean an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of
+those symbolic scenes which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not
+to the conception, of Omnipotence.
+
+
+We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the appearance
+of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the solid rock.
+There was a wall of granite on each side, high and precipitous,
+especially on our right, and so smooth that a few evergreens could
+hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is the entrance, or, in
+the direction we were going, the extremity, of the romantic defile of
+the Notch. Before emerging from it, the rattling of wheels approached
+behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled out of the mountain, with seats on
+top and trunks behind, and a smart driver, in a drab great-coat,
+touching the wheel-horses with the whip-stock and reigning in the
+leaders. To my mind there was a sort of poetry in such an incident,
+hardly inferior to what would have accompanied the painted array of an
+Indian war-party gliding forth from the same wild chasm. All the
+passengers, except a very fat lady on the back seat, had alighted. One
+was a mineralogist, a scientific, green-spectacled figure in black,
+bearing a heavy hammer, with which he did great damage to the
+precipices, and put the fragments in his pocket. Another was a
+well-dressed young man, who carried an operaglass set in gold, and
+seemed to be making a quotation from some of Byron’s rhapsodies on
+mountain scenery. There was also a trader, returning from Portland to
+the upper part of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint
+bloom like one of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur
+among alpine cliffs.
+
+They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine
+forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own
+dismal shade. Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre,
+surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine
+long before it left the external world. It was here that we obtained
+our first view, except at a distance, of the principal group of
+mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when contemplated in a
+proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the long ridges which
+support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather than of towering
+height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to Heaven: he was white
+with snow a mile downward, and had caught the only cloud that was
+sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head. Let us forget the
+other names of American statesmen that have been stamped upon these
+hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON. Mountains are Earth’s
+undecaying monuments. They must stand while she endures, and never
+should be consecrated to the mere great men of their own age and
+country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose glory is universal, and
+whom all time will render illustrious.
+
+The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two thousand
+feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a clear
+November evening in the lowlands. By morning, probably, there would be
+a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an icy surface
+over the standing water. I was glad to perceive a prospect of
+comfortable quarters in a house which we were approaching, and of
+pleasant company in the guests who were assembled at the door.
+
+OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS
+
+WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in that
+wild country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White Mountain
+Post-Office,—an establishment which distributes letters and newspapers
+to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the population of two or
+three townships among the hills. The broad and weighty antlers of a
+deer, “a stag of ten,” were fastened at the corner of the house; a
+fox’s bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and a huge black paw lay on
+the ground, newly severed and still bleeding, the trophy of a
+bear-hunt. Among several persons collected about the doorsteps, the
+most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, of six feet two, and
+corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of features, such as might be
+moulded on his own blacksmith’s anvil, but yet indicative of mother wit
+and rough humor. As we appeared, he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or
+five feet long, and blew a tremendous blast, either in honor of our
+arrival or to awaken an echo from the opposite hill.
+
+Ethan Crawford’s guests were of such a motley description as to form
+quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place
+like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and the
+homely inn of country travellers. Among the company at the door were
+the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we had
+encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had chilled their
+Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount Washington; a physician
+and his wife from Conway; a trader of Burlington and an old squire of
+the Green Mountains; and two young married couples, all the way from
+Massachusetts, on the matrimonial jaunt. Besides these strangers, the
+rugged county of Coos, in which we were, was represented by half a
+dozen wood-cutters, who had slain a bear in the forest and smitten off
+his paw.
+
+I had joined the party, and had a moment’s leisure to examine them
+before the echo of Ethan’s blast returned from the hill. Not one, but
+many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, untwisted its
+complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial harmonies in one stern
+trumpet-tone. It was a distinct yet distant and dream-like symphony of
+melodious instruments, as if an airy band had been hidden on the
+hillside and made faint music at the summons. No subsequent trial
+produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a concert as the first. A
+field-piece was then discharged from the top of a neighboring hill, and
+gave birth to one long reverberation, which ran round the circle of
+mountains in an unbroken chain of sound and rolled away without a
+separate echo. After these experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us
+all into the house, with the keenest appetites for supper.
+
+It did one’s heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in the
+parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace was
+built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an old tree
+for a backlog.
+
+A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very
+door. In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held our
+hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and began a
+pleasant variety of conversation. The mineralogist and the physician
+talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain air, and its
+excellent effect on Ethan Crawford’s father, an old man of
+seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The two brides
+and the doctor’s wife held a whispered discussion, which, by their
+frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have reference to the
+trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The bridegrooms sat
+together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers whom the spirit
+moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of bashfulness towards
+their own young wives. The Green Mountain squire chose me for his
+companion, and described the difficulties he had met with half a
+century ago in travelling from the Connecticut River through the Notch
+to Conway, now a single day’s journey, though it had cost him eighteen.
+The Georgians held the album between them, and favored us with the few
+specimens of its contents, which they considered ridiculous enough to
+be worth hearing. One extract met with deserved applause. It was a
+“Sonnet to the Snow on Mount Washington,” and had been contributed that
+very afternoon, bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines
+and annuals. The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote
+from familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those
+curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on
+the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman of
+the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the
+composure of a veteran.
+
+Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a winter
+evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where these
+summer travellers were now sitting. I once had it in contemplation to
+spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for the sake of studying
+the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each other through the Notch
+by hundreds, on their way to Portland. There could be no better school
+for such a purpose than Ethan Crawford’s inn. Let the student go
+thither in December, sit down with the teamsters at their meals, share
+their evening merriment, and repose with them at night when every bed
+has its three occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn
+with slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight,
+button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the
+departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head
+against the blast. A treasure of characteristic traits will repay all
+inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number.
+
+The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere,
+and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that the
+father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by ascending
+the peak of Mount Washington. The children of that pair have been
+overwhelmed, and found no such refuge. In the mythology of the savage,
+these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and inaccessible,
+full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty heights by the blaze of
+precious stones, and inhabited by deities, who sometimes shrouded
+themselves in the snow-storm and came down on the lower world. There
+are few legends more poetical than that of the “Great Carbuncle” of the
+White Mountains. The belief was communicated to the English settlers,
+and is hardly yet extinct, that a gem, of such immense size as to be
+seen shining miles away, hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake,
+high up among the hills. They who had once beheld its splendor were
+enthralled with an unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit
+guarded that inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a
+dark mist from the enchanted lake. Thus life was worn away in the vain
+search for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went
+up the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more. On
+this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral.
+
+The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions of
+the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their haunted
+region. The habits and sentiments of that departed people were too
+distinct from those of their successors to find much real sympathy. It
+has often been a matter of regret to me that I was shut out from the
+most peculiar field of American fiction by an inability to see any
+romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in the Indian character, at
+least till such traits were pointed out by others. I do abhor an Indian
+story. Yet no writer can be more secure of a permanent place in our
+literature than the biographer of the Indian chiefs. His subject, as
+referring to tribes which have mostly vanished from the earth, gives
+him a right to be placed on a classic shelf, apart from the merits
+which will sustain him there.
+
+I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our
+mineralogist had found the three “Silver Hills” which an Indian sachem
+sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the treasure of
+which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking for ever since.
+But the man of science had ransacked every hill along the Saco, and
+knew nothing of these prodigious piles of wealth. By this time, as
+usual with men on the eve of great adventure, we had prolonged our
+session deep into the night, considering how early we were to set out
+on our six miles’ ride to the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a
+general breaking up. I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms,
+and saw but little probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly
+bliss, in the first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of
+three, to climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind
+was as it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of
+my unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part,
+though we were to seek for the “Great Carbuncle.”
+
+THE CANAL-BOAT
+
+I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my imagination
+De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his magic wand from the
+Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery highway, crowded with
+the commerce of two worlds, till then inaccessible to each other. This
+simple and mighty conception had conferred inestimable value on spots
+which Nature seemed to have thrown carelessly into the great body of
+the earth, without foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I
+pictured the surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first
+glittered by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign
+commodities in exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely
+the water of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for
+it causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches
+and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and refinement,
+their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up, till in time the
+wondrous stream may flow between two continuous lines of buildings,
+through one thronged street, from Buffalo to Albany. I embarked about
+thirty miles below Utica, determining to voyage along the whole extent
+of the canal at least twice in the course of the summer.
+
+Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our
+vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in
+mythological pictures. Bound to a distant port, we had neither chart
+nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of a
+billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our
+adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle it
+seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the land paid
+contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it holds its drowsy
+way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive scenery that could
+be found between the great lakes and the sea-coast. Yet there is
+variety enough, both on the surface of the canal and along its banks,
+to amuse the traveller, if an overpowering tedium did not deaden his
+perceptions.
+
+Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with lumber,
+salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both ends like a
+square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were fated always to
+advance backward. On its deck would be a square hut, and a woman seen
+through the window at her household work, with a little tribe of
+children who perhaps had been born in this strange dwelling and knew no
+other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his pipe at the helm and the
+eldest son rode one of the horses, on went the family, travelling
+hundreds of miles in their own house and carrying their fireside with
+them. The most frequent species of craft were the “line-boats,” which
+had a cabin at each end, and a great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes
+in the midst, or light packets like our own decked all over with a row
+of curtained windows from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every
+one. Once we encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in
+gloomy black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence
+and with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among
+the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit
+from the white mail’s mighty projects and float along the current of
+his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath a
+clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and
+sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to
+Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors, scarlet,
+yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making merry in odd
+tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty damsel, with a
+beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a mirthful remark to me.
+She spoke in her native tongue, and I retorted in good English, both of
+us laughing heartily at each other’s unintelligible wit. I cannot
+describe how pleasantly this incident affected me. These honest Swiss
+were all itinerant community of jest and fun journeying through a
+gloomy land and among a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting
+none to understand their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet
+still retaining the happy lightness of their own spirit.
+
+Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in a
+dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the
+diversified panorama along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the scene
+was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away occasionally
+and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal black stumps,
+where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a log-cottage and a
+sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, she looked like
+poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and dwelling in a desert,
+while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her door. Two or three miles
+farther would bring us to a lock, where the slight impediment to
+navigation had created a little mart of trade. Here would be found
+commodities of all sorts, enumerated in yellow letters on the
+window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the owner of which had set
+his soul to the gathering of coppers and small change, buying and
+selling through the week, and counting his gains on the blessed
+Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling-houses and stores of a
+thriving village, built of wood or small gray stones, a church-spire
+rising in the midst, and generally two taverns, bearing over their
+piazzas the pompous titles of “hotel,” “exchange,” “tontine,” or
+“coffee-house.” Passing on, we glide now into the unquiet heart of an
+inland city,—of Utica, for instance,—and find ourselves amid piles of
+brick, crowded docks and quays, rich warehouses, and a busy population.
+We feel the eager and hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and
+eddy whirling us along with it. Through the thickest of the tumult goes
+the canal, flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges
+of hewn stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of
+struggling enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue
+of the ancient woods again.
+
+This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality
+that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. An
+English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick,
+and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending an
+unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which abound
+in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted these foolish birds
+with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness of their
+scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a thing of
+life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured diversion. At
+the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a Massachusetts
+farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very indescribable posture,
+leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb. A new passenger fell flat
+on his back in attempting to step on deck as the boat emerged from
+under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday clothes, as good luck would have
+it, being told to leap aboard from the bank, forthwith plunged up to
+his third waistcoat-button in the canal, and was fished out in a very
+pitiable plight, not at all amended by our three rounds of applause.
+Anon a Virginia schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the
+helmsman’s warning, “Bridge! bridge!” was saluted by the said bridge on
+his knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his
+idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully
+expected to see the treasures of the poor man’s cranium scattered about
+the deck. However, as there was no harm done, except a large bump on
+the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge, the rest of
+us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow pitiless are idle
+people!
+
+
+The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for supper,
+the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on the canal,
+the same space at dinner excepted. At the close of the meal it had
+become dusky enough for lamplight. The rain pattered unceasingly on the
+deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush against the windows, driven
+by the wind as it stirred through an opening of the forest. The
+intolerable dulness of the scene engendered an evil spirit in me.
+Perceiving that the Englishman was taking notes in a memorandum-book,
+with occasional glances round the cabin, I presumed that we were all to
+figure in a future volume of travels, and amused my ill-humor by
+falling into the probable vein of his remarks. He would hold up an
+imaginary mirror, wherein our reflected faces would appear ugly and
+ridiculous, yet still retain all undeniable likeness to the originals.
+Then, with more sweeping malice, he would make these caricatures the
+representatives of great classes of my countrymen.
+
+He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to
+recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College in
+the conjugation of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would portray as
+the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a school-boy’s
+Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse put together. Next
+the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer, who was delivering a
+dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday mails. Here was the
+far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion, writes the Englishman,
+is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every morning and eventide, and
+illiberality at all times; his boasted information is merely an
+abstract and compound of newspaper paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus
+harangues, and the argument and judge’s charge in his own lawsuits. The
+book-monger cast his eye at a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling
+faster than ever. In this sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled
+brow, we see daring enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here
+is the worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times
+bankrupt, richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked
+Englishman to say it!) here is the American. He lifted his eyeglass to
+inspect a Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance,
+reddened, and retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here
+was the pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of
+America,—shrinking when no evil is intended, and sensitive like
+diseased flesh, that thrills if you but point at it; and strangely
+modest, without confidence in the modesty of other people; and
+admirably pure, with such a quick apprehension of all impurity.
+
+In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as hard
+a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal
+Englishman. At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the
+looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected, and
+among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently observing
+myself.
+
+
+The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen,
+the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on
+shelves one above another. For a long time our various incommodities
+kept us all awake except five or six, who were accustomed to sleep
+nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring, and had little to dread
+from any other species of disturbance. It is a curious fact that these
+snorers had been the most quiet people in the boat while awake, and
+became peace-breakers only when others cease to be so, breathing tumult
+out of their repose. Would it were possible to affix a wind-instrument
+to the nose, and thus make melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover
+might serenade his mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune!
+Other, though fainter, sounds than these contributed to my
+restlessness. My head was close to the crimson curtain,—the sexual
+division of the boat,—behind which I continually heard whispers and
+stealthy footsteps; the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper
+dropped on the floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by
+loosening a tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the
+unlacing of a pair of stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an
+eye; a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was
+withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself
+without a blush.
+
+Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad awake
+than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish impulse to
+toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of mind by that
+of matter. Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide as a coffin, I
+turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on the floor, to the
+disturbance of the whole community of sleepers. As there were no bones
+broken, I blessed the accident and went on deck. A lantern was burning
+at each end of the boat, and one of the crew was stationed at the bows,
+keeping watch, as mariners do on the ocean. Though the rain had ceased,
+the sky was all one cloud, and the darkness so intense that there
+seemed to be no world except the little space on which our lanterns
+glimmered. Yet it was an impressive scene.
+
+We were traversing the “long level,” a dead flat between Utica and
+Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a lock
+for nearly seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal tract of
+country. The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of white-cedar,
+black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive moisture, is now
+decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of the swamp into the
+great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our lights were reflected
+from pools of stagnant water which stretched far in among the trunks of
+the trees, beneath dense masses of dark foliage. But generally the tall
+stems and intermingled branches were naked, and brought into strong
+relief amid the surrounding gloom by the whiteness of their decay.
+Often we beheld the prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had
+fallen and crushed down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots
+where destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a
+hundred trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground,
+resting on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the
+darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate
+confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and vanishing
+as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and bounded by it,
+the scene was ghostlike,—the very land of unsubstantial things, whither
+dreams might betake themselves when they quit the slumberer’s brain.
+
+My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been
+driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. And
+even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of her
+empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding on her
+latest solitude. In other lands decay sits among fallen palaces; but
+here her home is in the forests.
+
+Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach of
+another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old
+scow,—just such a craft as the “Flying Dutchman” would navigate on the
+canal. Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I
+imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough
+great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a
+hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn, sending a
+long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a signal for
+some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change of horses. We
+had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when the tow-rope got
+entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the canal, and caused a
+momentary delay, during which I went to examine the phosphoric light of
+an old tree a little within the forest. It was not the first delusive
+radiance that I had followed.
+
+The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass of
+diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full of
+conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light,
+illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the
+dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its brilliancy
+to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike torches were
+just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze coldly in tombs,
+when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the canal. I
+recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering far away.
+
+“Boat ahoy!” shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists.
+
+Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of
+the woods, it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for their
+snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially for those
+who have paid their fare. Indeed, the captain had an interest in
+getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a breakfast.
+
+“They are gone, Heaven be praised!” ejaculated I; “for I cannot
+possibly overtake them. Here am I, on the ‘long level,’ at midnight,
+with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where my baggage
+will be left. And now to find a house or shed wherein to pass the
+night.” So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old tree,
+burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and, like a
+jack-o’-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
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+<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
+at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
+are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
+country where you are located before using this eBook.
+</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Sketches from Memory</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 6, 2003 [eBook #9233]<br />
+[Most recently updated: November 9, 2022]</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: David Widger and Al Haines</div>
+<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***</div>
+
+<h1>Sketches from Memory</h1>
+
+<h2 class="no-break">by Nathaniel Hawthorne</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h3>THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS</h3>
+
+<p>
+It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from Bartlett,
+passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends between mountainous
+walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often as level as a church-aisle. All
+that day and two preceding ones we had been loitering towards the heart of the
+White Mountains,&mdash;those old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had
+gleamed upon our distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height
+after height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began to
+hang below the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of the slides,
+those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which descend into the hollows,
+leaving vestiges of their track hardly to be effaced by the vegetation of ages.
+We had mountains behind us and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier
+ones ahead. Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of
+that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the farther
+region.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the Northern
+Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart through some defile
+known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a wondrous path. A demon, it might be
+fancied, or one of the Titans, was travelling up the valley, elbowing the
+heights carelessly aside as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its
+stand directly across his intended road. He tarries not for such an obstacle,
+but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, discloses its
+treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all the secrets of the
+mountain’s inmost heart, with a mighty fracture of rugged precipices on each
+side. This is the Notch of the White Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted
+to describe it by so mean an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those
+symbolic scenes which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the
+conception, of Omnipotence.
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>
+We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the appearance of
+having been cut by human strength and artifice in the solid rock. There was a
+wall of granite on each side, high and precipitous, especially on our right,
+and so smooth that a few evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow
+there. This is the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity,
+of the romantic defile of the Notch. Before emerging from it, the rattling of
+wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled out of the mountain,
+with seats on top and trunks behind, and a smart driver, in a drab great-coat,
+touching the wheel-horses with the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To
+my mind there was a sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what
+would have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding forth
+from the same wild chasm. All the passengers, except a very fat lady on the
+back seat, had alighted. One was a mineralogist, a scientific, green-spectacled
+figure in black, bearing a heavy hammer, with which he did great damage to the
+precipices, and put the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed
+young man, who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a
+quotation from some of Byron’s rhapsodies on mountain scenery. There was also a
+trader, returning from Portland to the upper part of Vermont; and a fair young
+girl, with a very faint bloom like one of those pale and delicate flowers which
+sometimes occur among alpine cliffs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine forest,
+which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own dismal shade.
+Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre, surrounded by a great
+rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine long before it left the external
+world. It was here that we obtained our first view, except at a distance, of
+the principal group of mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when
+contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the long
+ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather than of
+towering height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to Heaven: he was white
+with snow a mile downward, and had caught the only cloud that was sailing
+through the atmosphere to veil his head. Let us forget the other names of
+American statesmen that have been stamped upon these hills, but still call the
+loftiest WASHINGTON. Mountains are Earth’s undecaying monuments. They must
+stand while she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men
+of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose glory is
+universal, and whom all time will render illustrious.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two thousand feet
+above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a clear November evening in
+the lowlands. By morning, probably, there would be a frost, if not a snowfall,
+on the grass and rye, and an icy surface over the standing water. I was glad to
+perceive a prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were
+approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were assembled at the
+door.
+</p>
+
+<h3>OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS</h3>
+
+<p>
+WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in that wild
+country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White Mountain
+Post-Office,&mdash;an establishment which distributes letters and newspapers to
+perhaps a score of persons, comprising the population of two or three townships
+among the hills. The broad and weighty antlers of a deer, “a stag of ten,” were
+fastened at the corner of the house; a fox’s bushy tail was nailed beneath
+them; and a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still bleeding,
+the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected about the doorsteps,
+the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, of six feet two, and
+corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of features, such as might be moulded on
+his own blacksmith’s anvil, but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor.
+As we appeared, he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a
+tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an echo from the
+opposite hill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ethan Crawford’s guests were of such a motley description as to form quite a
+picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place like this, at once
+the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and the homely inn of country
+travellers. Among the company at the door were the mineralogist and the owner
+of the gold operaglass whom we had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian
+gentlemen, who had chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of
+Mount Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of Burlington
+and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young married couples, all
+the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial jaunt. Besides these strangers,
+the rugged county of Coos, in which we were, was represented by half a dozen
+wood-cutters, who had slain a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had joined the party, and had a moment’s leisure to examine them before the
+echo of Ethan’s blast returned from the hill. Not one, but many echoes had
+caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, untwisted its complicated threads, and
+found a thousand aerial harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone. It was a distinct
+yet distant and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy
+band had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons. No
+subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a concert as the
+first. A field-piece was then discharged from the top of a neighboring hill,
+and gave birth to one long reverberation, which ran round the circle of
+mountains in an unbroken chain of sound and rolled away without a separate
+echo. After these experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house,
+with the keenest appetites for supper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It did one’s heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in the parlor
+and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace was built of rough
+stone, and might have contained the trunk of an old tree for a backlog.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very door. In
+the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held our hands before our
+eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and began a pleasant variety of
+conversation. The mineralogist and the physician talked about the invigorating
+qualities of the mountain air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford’s
+father, an old man of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The
+two brides and the doctor’s wife held a whispered discussion, which, by their
+frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have reference to the trials
+or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The bridegrooms sat together in a
+corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers whom the spirit moveth not, being still in
+the odd predicament of bashfulness towards their own young wives. The Green
+Mountain squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he
+had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut River
+through the Notch to Conway, now a single day’s journey, though it had cost him
+eighteen. The Georgians held the album between them, and favored us with the
+few specimens of its contents, which they considered ridiculous enough to be
+worth hearing. One extract met with deserved applause. It was a “Sonnet to the
+Snow on Mount Washington,” and had been contributed that very afternoon,
+bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals. The lines
+were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from familiar sentiment, and
+cold as their subject, resembling those curious specimens of crystallized vapor
+which I observed next day on the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be
+the young gentleman of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks
+with the composure of a veteran.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a winter evening
+another set of guests assembled at the hearth where these summer travellers
+were now sitting. I once had it in contemplation to spend a month hereabouts,
+in sleighing-time, for the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then
+elbow each other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland. There
+could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan Crawford’s inn. Let the
+student go thither in December, sit down with the teamsters at their meals,
+share their evening merriment, and repose with them at night when every bed has
+its three occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with
+slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight, button his
+great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the departing caravan a mile or
+two, to see how sturdily they make head against the blast. A treasure of
+characteristic traits will repay all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose
+be of the number.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere, and we
+recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that the father and
+mother of their race were saved from a deluge by ascending the peak of Mount
+Washington. The children of that pair have been overwhelmed, and found no such
+refuge. In the mythology of the savage, these mountains were afterwards
+considered sacred and inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at
+lofty heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities, who
+sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on the lower
+world. There are few legends more poetical than that of the “Great Carbuncle”
+of the White Mountains. The belief was communicated to the English settlers,
+and is hardly yet extinct, that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen
+shining miles away, hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among
+the hills. They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an
+unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit guarded that inestimable
+jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist from the enchanted lake.
+Thus life was worn away in the vain search for an unearthly treasure, till at
+length the deluded one went up the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but
+returned no more. On this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep
+moral.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions of the red
+men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their haunted region. The habits
+and sentiments of that departed people were too distinct from those of their
+successors to find much real sympathy. It has often been a matter of regret to
+me that I was shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an
+inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in the Indian
+character, at least till such traits were pointed out by others. I do abhor an
+Indian story. Yet no writer can be more secure of a permanent place in our
+literature than the biographer of the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring
+to tribes which have mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be
+placed on a classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our mineralogist
+had found the three “Silver Hills” which an Indian sachem sold to an Englishman
+nearly two hundred years ago, and the treasure of which the posterity of the
+purchaser have been looking for ever since. But the man of science had
+ransacked every hill along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles
+of wealth. By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great adventure, we
+had prolonged our session deep into the night, considering how early we were to
+set out on our six miles’ ride to the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a
+general breaking up. I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw
+but little probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the
+first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to climb above the
+clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as it rushed through a broken
+pane and eddied between the chinks of my unplastered chamber, did I anticipate
+much alacrity on my own part, though we were to seek for the “Great Carbuncle.”
+</p>
+
+<h3>THE CANAL-BOAT</h3>
+
+<p>
+I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my imagination De Witt
+Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his magic wand from the Hudson to Lake
+Erie and united them by a watery highway, crowded with the commerce of two
+worlds, till then inaccessible to each other. This simple and mighty conception
+had conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have thrown
+carelessly into the great body of the earth, without foreseeing that they could
+ever attain importance. I pictured the surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the
+new river first glittered by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign
+commodities in exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely the
+water of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it causes
+towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches and theatres, their
+business and hubbub, their luxury and refinement, their gay dames and polished
+citizens, to spring up, till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two
+continuous lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to
+Albany. I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to voyage along
+the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the course of the summer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our vessel, like
+the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in mythological pictures. Bound
+to a distant port, we had neither chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind,
+nor felt the heaving of a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the
+tempest, in our adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a
+mudpuddle it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the land paid
+contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it holds its drowsy way
+through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive scenery that could be found
+between the great lakes and the sea-coast. Yet there is variety enough, both on
+the surface of the canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an
+overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with lumber, salt from
+Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both ends like a square-toed boot, as
+if it had two sterns, and were fated always to advance backward. On its deck
+would be a square hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household
+work, with a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange
+dwelling and knew no other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his pipe at the
+helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went the family, travelling
+hundreds of miles in their own house and carrying their fireside with them. The
+most frequent species of craft were the “line-boats,” which had a cabin at each
+end, and a great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light
+packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows from stem
+to stern, and a drowsy face at every one. Once we encountered a boat of rude
+construction, painted all in gloomy black, and manned by three Indians, who
+gazed at us in silence and with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these
+three alone, among the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive
+benefit from the white mail’s mighty projects and float along the current of
+his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath a clouded
+sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and sunshine. It contained
+a little colony of Swiss on their way to Michigan, clad in garments of strange
+fashion and gay colors, scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing,
+and making merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty
+damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a mirthful remark
+to me. She spoke in her native tongue, and I retorted in good English, both of
+us laughing heartily at each other’s unintelligible wit. I cannot describe how
+pleasantly this incident affected me. These honest Swiss were all itinerant
+community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among a dull
+race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand their mirth, and only
+one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining the happy lightness of their own
+spirit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in a dirty
+canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the diversified panorama
+along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the scene was a forest, dark, dense,
+and impervious, breaking away occasionally and receding from a lonely tract,
+covered with dismal black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be
+seen a log-cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, she
+looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and dwelling in a
+desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her door. Two or three miles
+farther would bring us to a lock, where the slight impediment to navigation had
+created a little mart of trade. Here would be found commodities of all sorts,
+enumerated in yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store,
+the owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and small
+change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his gains on the
+blessed Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling-houses and stores of a
+thriving village, built of wood or small gray stones, a church-spire rising in
+the midst, and generally two taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous
+titles of “hotel,” “exchange,” “tontine,” or “coffee-house.” Passing on, we
+glide now into the unquiet heart of an inland city,&mdash;of Utica, for
+instance,&mdash;and find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and
+quays, rich warehouses, and a busy population. We feel the eager and hurrying
+spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us along with it. Through
+the thickest of the tumult goes the canal, flowing between lofty rows of
+buildings and arched bridges of hewn stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum
+and bustle of struggling enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an
+avenue of the ancient woods again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality that we
+were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. An English traveller
+paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick, and waged war on squirrels
+and woodpeckers, sometimes sending an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame
+ducks and geese which abound in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted
+these foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness of
+their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a thing of
+life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured diversion. At the
+moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a Massachusetts farmer by the leg
+and threw him down in a very indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark
+around his sturdy limb. A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to
+step on deck as the boat emerged from under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday
+clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from the bank,
+forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the canal, and was fished
+out in a very pitiable plight, not at all amended by our three rounds of
+applause. Anon a Virginia schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed
+the helmsman’s warning, “Bridge! bridge!” was saluted by the said bridge on his
+knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his idol, but heard
+the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully expected to see the treasures
+of the poor man’s cranium scattered about the deck. However, as there was no
+harm done, except a large bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent
+in the bridge, the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow
+pitiless are idle people!
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>
+The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for supper, the
+next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on the canal, the same
+space at dinner excepted. At the close of the meal it had become dusky enough
+for lamplight. The rain pattered unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came
+with a sullen rush against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred
+through an opening of the forest. The intolerable dulness of the scene
+engendered an evil spirit in me. Perceiving that the Englishman was taking
+notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the cabin, I presumed
+that we were all to figure in a future volume of travels, and amused my
+ill-humor by falling into the probable vein of his remarks. He would hold up an
+imaginary mirror, wherein our reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous,
+yet still retain all undeniable likeness to the originals. Then, with more
+sweeping malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great
+classes of my countrymen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to recreate
+himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College in the conjugation
+of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would portray as the scholar of America,
+and compare his erudition to a school-boy’s Latin theme made up of scraps
+ill-selected and worse put together. Next the tourist looked at the
+Massachusetts farmer, who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of
+Sunday mails. Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion,
+writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every morning and
+eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted information is merely an
+abstract and compound of newspaper paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus
+harangues, and the argument and judge’s charge in his own lawsuits. The
+book-monger cast his eye at a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster
+than ever. In this sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see
+daring enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here is the worshipper of
+Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt, richer after every ruin;
+here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to say it!) here is the American. He
+lifted his eyeglass to inspect a Western lady, who at once became aware of the
+glance, reddened, and retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here
+was the pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of
+America,&mdash;shrinking when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased
+flesh, that thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without
+confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with such a
+quick apprehension of all impurity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as hard a lash
+as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal Englishman. At length I
+caught the eyes of my own image in the looking-glass, where a number of the
+party were likewise reflected, and among them the Englishman, who at that
+moment was intently observing myself.
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>
+The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen, the cabin
+became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on shelves one above
+another. For a long time our various incommodities kept us all awake except
+five or six, who were accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own
+snoring, and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance. It is a
+curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people in the boat
+while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others cease to be so,
+breathing tumult out of their repose. Would it were possible to affix a
+wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make melody of a snore, so that a
+sleeping lover might serenade his mistress or a congregation snore a
+psalm-tune! Other, though fainter, sounds than these contributed to my
+restlessness. My head was close to the crimson curtain,&mdash;the sexual
+division of the boat,&mdash;behind which I continually heard whispers and
+stealthy footsteps; the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped
+on the floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a tight
+belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing of a pair of
+stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye; a visible image pestered
+my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was withdrawn between me and the Western
+lady, who yet disrobed herself without a blush.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad awake than
+through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish impulse to toss my limbs
+miles apart and appease the unquietness of mind by that of matter. Forgetting
+that my berth was hardly so wide as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell
+like an avalanche on the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of
+sleepers. As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on
+deck. A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the crew was
+stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the ocean. Though the
+rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and the darkness so intense that
+there seemed to be no world except the little space on which our lanterns
+glimmered. Yet it was an impressive scene.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were traversing the “long level,” a dead flat between Utica and Syracuse,
+where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a lock for nearly
+seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal tract of country. The forest
+which covers it, consisting chiefly of white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees
+that live in excessive moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial
+draining of the swamp into the great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our
+lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched far in among
+the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark foliage. But generally
+the tall stems and intermingled branches were naked, and brought into strong
+relief amid the surrounding gloom by the whiteness of their decay. Often we
+beheld the prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed
+down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots where destruction had been
+riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred trunks, erect, half overthrown,
+extended along the ground, resting on their shattered limbs or tossing them
+desperately into the darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together,
+in desolate confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and
+vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and bounded by it,
+the scene was ghostlike,&mdash;the very land of unsubstantial things, whither
+dreams might betake themselves when they quit the slumberer’s brain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been driven to
+this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. And even here, where
+the savage queen was throned on the ruins of her empire, did we penetrate, a
+vulgar and worldly throng, intruding on her latest solitude. In other lands
+decay sits among fallen palaces; but here her home is in the forests.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach of another
+boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old scow,&mdash;just such
+a craft as the “Flying Dutchman” would navigate on the canal. Perhaps it was
+that celebrated personage himself whom I imperfectly distinguished at the helm
+in a glazed cap and rough great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the
+fumes of tobacco a hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn,
+sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a signal for
+some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change of horses. We had
+proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when the tow-rope got entangled in
+a fallen branch on the edge of the canal, and caused a momentary delay, during
+which I went to examine the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the
+forest. It was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass of diseased
+splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full of conceits that night,
+I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light, illumining decay and death, an
+emblem of fame that gleams around the dead man without warming him, or of
+genius when it owes its brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that
+such ghostlike torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze
+coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the canal. I
+recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering far away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Boat ahoy!” shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of the woods,
+it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for their snail-like pace by
+never loitering day nor night, especially for those who have paid their fare.
+Indeed, the captain had an interest in getting rid of me; for I was his
+creditor for a breakfast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“They are gone, Heaven be praised!” ejaculated I; “for I cannot possibly
+overtake them. Here am I, on the ‘long level,’ at midnight, with the
+comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where my baggage will be left. And
+now to find a house or shed wherein to pass the night.” So thinking aloud, I
+took a flambeau from the old tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my
+steps withal, and, like a jack-o’-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
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+eBook #9233 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/9233)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses From An
+Old Manse"), by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses From An Old Manse")
+
+Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+Posting Date: December 8, 2010 [EBook #9233]
+Release Date: November, 2005
+First Posted: September 6, 2003
+Last Updated: February 6, 2007
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                     MOSSES FROM AN OLD MANSE
+
+                      By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+                       SKETCHES FROM MEMORY
+
+
+
+THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
+
+
+It was now the middle of September.  We had come since sunrise from
+Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends
+between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often
+as level as a church-aisle.  All that day and two preceding ones we
+had been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,--those
+old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our
+distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them.  Height after
+height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began
+to hang below the peaks.  Down their slopes were the red pathways of
+the slides, those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which
+descend into the hollows, leaving vestiges of their track hardly to
+be effaced by the vegetation of ages.  We had mountains behind us
+and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier ones ahead.
+Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of
+that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the
+farther region.
+
+In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the
+Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart
+through some defile known only to themselves.  It is, indeed, a
+wondrous path.  A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans,
+was travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside
+as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand
+directly across his intended road.  He tarries not for such an
+obstacle, but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base,
+discloses its treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all
+the secrets of the mountain's inmost heart, with a mighty fracture
+of rugged precipices on each side. This is the Notch of the White
+Hills.  Shame on me that I have attempted to describe it by so mean
+an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those symbolic scenes
+which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the conception,
+of Omnipotence.
+
+.     .     .     .     .
+
+We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the
+appearance of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the
+solid rock.  There was a wall of granite on each side, high and
+precipitous, especially on our right, and so smooth that a few
+evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is
+the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity, of
+the romantic defile of the Notch.  Before emerging from it, the
+rattling of wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled
+out of the mountain, with seats on top and trunks behind, and a
+smart driver, in a drab great-coat, touching the wheel-horses with
+the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To my mind there was a
+sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what would
+have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding
+forth from the same wild chasm.  All the passengers, except a very
+fat lady on the back seat, had alighted.  One was a mineralogist, a
+scientific, green-spectacled figure in black, bearing a heavy
+hammer, with which he did great damage to the precipices, and put
+the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed young man,
+who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a
+quotation from some of Byron's rhapsodies on mountain scenery.
+There was also a trader, returning from Portland to the upper part
+of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint bloom like one
+of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur among
+alpine cliffs.
+
+They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine
+forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own
+dismal shade.  Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre,
+surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine
+long before it left the external world.  It was here that we
+obtained our first view, except at a distance, of the principal
+group of mountains.  They are majestic, and even awful, when
+contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the
+long ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather
+than of towering height.  Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to
+Heaven: he was white with snow a mile downward, and had caught the
+only cloud that was sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head.
+Let us forget the other names of American statesmen that have been
+stamped upon these hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON.
+Mountains are Earth's undecaying monuments.  They must stand while
+she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men
+of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose
+glory is universal, and whom all time will render illustrious.
+
+The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two
+thousand feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a
+clear November evening in the lowlands.  By morning, probably, there
+would be a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an
+icy surface over the standing water.  I was glad to perceive a
+prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were
+approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were
+assembled at the door.
+
+
+
+OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
+
+WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in
+that wild country.  A sign over the door denoted it to be the White
+Mountain Post-Office,--an establishment which distributes letters
+and newspapers to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the
+population of two or three townships among the hills.  The broad and
+weighty antlers of a deer, "a stag of ten," were fastened at the
+corner of the house; a fox's bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and
+a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still
+bleeding, the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected
+about the doorsteps, the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer,
+of six feet two, and corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of
+features, such as might be moulded on his own blacksmith's anvil,
+but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor.  As we appeared,
+he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a
+tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an
+echo from the opposite hill.
+
+Ethan Crawford's guests were of such a motley description as to form
+quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place
+like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and
+the homely inn of country travellers.  Among the company at the door
+were the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we
+had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had
+chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount
+Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of
+Burlington and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young
+married couples, all the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial
+jaunt.  Besides these strangers, the rugged county of Coos, in which
+we were, was represented by half a dozen wood-cutters, who had slain
+a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw.
+
+I had joined the party, and had a moment's leisure to examine them
+before the echo of Ethan's blast returned from the hill. Not one,
+but many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound,
+untwisted its complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial
+harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone.  It was a distinct yet distant
+and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy band
+had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons.
+No subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a
+concert as the first.  A field-piece was then discharged from the
+top of a neighboring hill, and gave birth to one long reverberation,
+which ran round the circle of mountains in an unbroken chain of
+sound and rolled away without a separate echo.  After these
+experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house, with
+the keenest appetites for supper.
+
+It did one's heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in
+the parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace
+was built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an
+old tree for a backlog.
+
+A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very
+door.  In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held
+our hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and
+began a pleasant variety of conversation.  The mineralogist and the
+physician talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain
+air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford's father, an old man
+of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life.  The two
+brides and the doctor's wife held a whispered discussion, which, by
+their frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have
+reference to the trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state.  The
+bridegrooms sat together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers
+whom the spirit moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of
+bashfulness towards their own young wives.  The Green Mountain
+squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he
+had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut
+River through the Notch to Conway, now a single day's journey,
+though it had cost him eighteen.  The Georgians held the album
+between them, and favored us with the few specimens of its contents,
+which they considered ridiculous enough to be worth hearing.  One
+extract met with deserved applause.  It was a "Sonnet to the Snow on
+Mount Washington," and had been contributed that very afternoon,
+bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals.
+The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from
+familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those
+curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on
+the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman
+of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the
+composure of a veteran.
+
+Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement.  But on a
+winter evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where
+these summer travellers were now sitting.  I once had it in
+contemplation to spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for
+the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each
+other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland.
+There could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan
+Crawford's inn.  Let the student go thither in December, sit down
+with the teamsters at their meals, share their evening merriment,
+and repose with them at night when every bed has its three
+occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with
+slumberers around the fire.  Then let him rise before daylight,
+button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the
+departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head
+against the blast.  A treasure of characteristic traits will repay
+all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number.
+
+The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere,
+and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that
+the father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by
+ascending the peak of Mount Washington.  The children of that pair
+have been overwhelmed, and found no such refuge.  In the mythology
+of the savage, these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and
+inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty
+heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities,
+who sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on
+the lower world.  There are few legends more poetical than that of
+the "Great Carbuncle" of the White Mountains.  The belief was
+communicated to the English settlers, and is hardly yet extinct,
+that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen shining miles away,
+hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among the hills.
+They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an
+unutterable yearning to possess it.  But a spirit guarded that
+inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist
+from the enchanted lake.  Thus life was worn away in the vain search
+for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went up
+the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more.  On
+this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral.
+
+The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions
+of the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their
+haunted region.  The habits and sentiments of that departed people
+were too distinct from those of their successors to find much real
+sympathy.  It has often been a matter of regret to me that I was
+shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an
+inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in
+the Indian character, at least till such traits were pointed out by
+others.  I do abhor an Indian story.  Yet no writer can be more
+secure of a permanent place in our literature than the biographer of
+the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring to tribes which have
+mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be placed on a
+classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there.
+
+I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our
+mineralogist had found the three "Silver Hills" which an Indian
+sachem sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the
+treasure of which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking
+for ever since.  But the man of science had ransacked every hill
+along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles of
+wealth.  By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great
+adventure, we had prolonged our session deep into the night,
+considering how early we were to set out on our six miles' ride to
+the foot of Mount Washington.  There was now a general breaking up.
+I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw but little
+probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the
+first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to
+climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as
+it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of my
+unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part,
+though we were to seek for the "Great Carbuncle."
+
+
+
+THE CANAL-BOAT.
+
+I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal.  In my
+imagination De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his
+magic wand from the Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery
+highway, crowded with the commerce of two worlds, till then
+inaccessible to each other.  This simple and mighty conception had
+conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have
+thrown carelessly into the great body of the earth, without
+foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I pictured the
+surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first glittered
+by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign commodities in
+exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce.  Surely the water
+of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it
+causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches
+and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and
+refinement, their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up,
+till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two continuous
+lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to
+Albany.  I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to
+voyage along the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the
+course of the summer.
+
+Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our
+vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in
+mythological pictures.  Bound to a distant port, we had neither
+chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of
+a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our
+adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle
+it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the
+land paid contribution to it.  With an imperceptible current, it
+holds its drowsy way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive
+scenery that could be found between the great lakes and the
+sea-coast.  Yet there is variety enough, both on the surface of the
+canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an
+overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions.
+
+Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with
+lumber, salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both
+ends like a square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were
+fated always to advance backward.  On its deck would be a square
+hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household work, with
+a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange
+dwelling and knew no other home.  Thus, while the husband smoked his
+pipe at the helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went
+the family, travelling hundreds of miles in their own house and
+carrying their fireside with them.  The most frequent species of
+craft were the "line-boats," which had a cabin at each end, and a
+great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light
+packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows
+from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every one.  Once we
+encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in gloomy
+black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence and
+with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among
+the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit
+from the white mail's mighty projects and float along the current of
+his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath
+a clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and
+sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to
+Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors,
+scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making
+merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words.  One pretty
+damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a
+mirthful remark to me.  She spoke in her native tongue, and I
+retorted in good English, both of us laughing heartily at each
+other's unintelligible wit.  I cannot describe how pleasantly this
+incident affected me.  These honest Swiss were all itinerant
+community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among
+a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand
+their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining
+the happy lightness of their own spirit.
+
+Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in
+a dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the
+diversified panorama along the banks of the canal.  Sometimes the
+scene was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away
+occasionally and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal
+black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a
+log-cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window.  Lean and aguish,
+she looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and
+dwelling in a desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her
+door.  Two or three miles farther would bring us to a lock, where
+the slight impediment to navigation had created a little mart of
+trade.  Here would be found commodities of all sorts, enumerated in
+yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the
+owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and
+small change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his
+gains on the blessed Sabbath.  The next scene might be the dwelling-houses
+and stores of a thriving village, built of wood or small gray
+stones, a church-spire rising in the midst, and generally two
+taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous titles of "hotel,"
+"exchange," "tontine," or "coffee-house."  Passing on, we glide now
+into the unquiet heart of an inland city,--of Utica, for instance,--and
+find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and quays,
+rich warehouses, and a busy population.  We feel the eager and
+hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us
+along with it.  Through the thickest of the tumult goes the canal,
+flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges of hewn
+stone.  Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of struggling
+enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue of the
+ancient woods again.
+
+This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality
+that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement.
+An English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick,
+and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending
+an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which
+abound in the dirty water of the canal.  I, also, pelted these
+foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness
+of their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a
+thing of life.  Several little accidents afforded us good-natured
+diversion.  At the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a
+Massachusetts farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very
+indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb.
+A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to step on deck
+as the boat emerged from under a bridge.  Another, in his Sunday
+clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from
+the bank, forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the
+canal, and was fished out in a very pitiable plight, not at all
+amended by our three rounds of applause.  Anon a Virginia
+schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the helmsman's
+warning, "Bridge! bridge!" was saluted by the said bridge on his
+knowledge-box.  I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his
+idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully
+expected to see the treasures of the poor man's cranium scattered
+about the deck.  However, as there was no harm done, except a large
+bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge,
+the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly.  O, bow
+pitiless are idle people!
+
+
+.     .     .     .     .     .     .    .
+
+The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for
+supper, the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on
+the canal, the same space at dinner excepted.  At the close of the
+meal it had become dusky enough for lamplight.  The rain pattered
+unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush
+against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred through an
+opening of the forest.  The intolerable dulness of the scene
+engendered an evil spirit in me.  Perceiving that the Englishman was
+taking notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the
+cabin, I presumed that we were all to figure in a future volume of
+travels, and amused my ill-humor by falling into the probable vein
+of his remarks.  He would hold up an imaginary mirror, wherein our
+reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous, yet still retain
+all undeniable likeness to the originals.  Then, with more sweeping
+malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great
+classes of my countrymen.
+
+He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to
+recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College
+in the conjugation of a Greek verb.  Him the Englishman would
+portray as the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a
+school-boy's Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse
+put together.  Next the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer,
+who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday
+mails.  Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion,
+writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every
+morning and eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted
+information is merely an abstract and compound of newspaper
+paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus harangues, and the argument and
+judge's charge in his own lawsuits.  The book-monger cast his eye at
+a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster than ever.  In this
+sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see daring
+enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined.  Here is the
+worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt,
+richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to
+say it!) here is the American.  He lifted his eyeglass to inspect a
+Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance, reddened, and
+retired deeper into the female part of the cabin.  Here was the
+pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of America,--shrinking
+when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased flesh, that
+thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without
+confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with
+such a quick apprehension of all impurity.
+
+In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as
+hard a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal
+Englishman.  At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the
+looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected,
+and among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently
+observing myself.
+
+.     .     .     .     .     .     .    .
+
+The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen,
+the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on
+shelves one above another.  For a long time our various
+incommodities kept us all awake except five or six, who were
+accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring,
+and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance.  It
+is a curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people
+in the boat while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others
+cease to be so, breathing tumult out of their repose.  Would it were
+possible to affix a wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make
+melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover might serenade his
+mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune!  Other, though
+fainter, sounds than these contributed to my restlessness.  My head
+was close to the crimson curtain,--the sexual division of the
+boat,--behind which I continually heard whispers and stealthy footsteps;
+the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped on the
+floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a
+tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing
+of a pair of stays.  My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye;
+a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was
+withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself
+without a blush.
+
+Finally all was hushed in that quarter.  Still I was more broad
+awake than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish
+impulse to toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of
+mind by that of matter.  Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide
+as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on
+the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of sleepers.
+As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on
+deck.  A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the
+crew was stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the
+ocean.  Though the rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and
+the darkness so intense that there seemed to be no world except the
+little space on which our lanterns glimmered.  Yet it was an
+impressive scene.
+
+We were traversing the "long level," a dead flat between Utica and
+Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a
+lock for nearly seventy miles.  There can hardly be a more dismal
+tract of country.  The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of
+white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive
+moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of
+the swamp into the great ditch of the canal.  Sometimes, indeed, our
+lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched
+far in among the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark
+foliage.  But generally the tall stems and intermingled branches
+were naked, and brought into strong relief amid the surrounding
+gloom by the whiteness of their decay.  Often we beheld the
+prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed
+down smaller trees under its immense ruin.  In spots where
+destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred
+trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground, resting
+on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the
+darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate
+confusion.  Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and
+vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and
+bounded by it, the scene was ghostlike,--the very land of
+unsubstantial things, whither dreams might betake themselves when
+they quit the slumberer's brain.
+
+My fancy found another emblem.  The wild nature of America had been
+driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man.
+And even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of
+her empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding
+on her latest solitude.  In other lands decay sits among fallen
+palaces; but here her home is in the forests.
+
+Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach
+of another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old
+scow,--just such a craft as the "Flying Dutchman" would navigate on
+the canal.  Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I
+imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough
+great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a
+hundred yards behind.  Shortly after our boatman blew a horn,
+sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a
+signal for some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change
+of horses.  We had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when
+the tow-rope got entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the
+canal, and caused a momentary delay, during which I went to examine
+the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the forest.  It
+was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed.
+
+The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass
+of diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full
+of conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light,
+illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the
+dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its
+brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike
+torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze
+coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the
+canal.  I recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering
+far away.
+
+"Boat ahoy!" shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists.
+
+Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of
+the woods, it produced no effect.  These packet-boats make up for
+their snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially
+for those who have paid their fare.  Indeed, the captain had an
+interest in getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a
+breakfast.
+
+"They are gone, Heaven be praised!" ejaculated I; "for I cannot
+possibly overtake them.  Here am I, on the 'long level,' at
+midnight, with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where
+my baggage will be left.  And now to find a house or shed wherein to
+pass the night."  So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old
+tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and,
+like a jack-o'-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses
+From An Old Manse"), by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
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+Project Gutenberg EBook, Sketches From Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+From "Mosses From An Old Manse"
+#60 in our series by Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the
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+Title: Sketches From Memory (From "Mosses From An Old Manse")
+
+Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+Release Date: Nov, 2005  [EBook #9233]
+[This file was first posted on September 6, 2003]
+[Last updated on February 6, 2007]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+
+
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+                     MOSSES FROM AN OLD MANSE
+
+                      By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
+                       SKETCHES FROM MEMORY
+
+
+
+THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
+
+
+It was now the middle of September.  We had come since sunrise from
+Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends
+between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often
+as level as a church-aisle.  All that day and two preceding ones we
+had been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,--those
+old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our
+distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them.  Height after
+height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began
+to hang below the peaks.  Down their slopes were the red pathways of
+the slides, those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which
+descend into the hollows, leaving vestiges of their track hardly to
+be effaced by the vegetation of ages.  We had mountains behind us
+and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier ones ahead.
+Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of
+that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the
+farther region.
+
+In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the
+Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart
+through some defile known only to themselves.  It is, indeed, a
+wondrous path.  A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans,
+was travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside
+as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand
+directly across his intended road.  He tarries not for such an
+obstacle, but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base,
+discloses its treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all
+the secrets of the mountain's inmost heart, with a mighty fracture
+of rugged precipices on each side. This is the Notch of the White
+Hills.  Shame on me that I have attempted to describe it by so mean
+an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those symbolic scenes
+which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the conception,
+of Omnipotence.
+
+.     .     .     .     .
+
+We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the
+appearance of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the
+solid rock.  There was a wall of granite on each side, high and
+precipitous, especially on our right, and so smooth that a few
+evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is
+the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity, of
+the romantic defile of the Notch.  Before emerging from it, the
+rattling of wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled
+out of the mountain, with seats on top and trunks behind, and a
+smart driver, in a drab great-coat, touching the wheel-horses with
+the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To my mind there was a
+sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what would
+have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding
+forth from the same wild chasm.  All the passengers, except a very
+fat lady on the back seat, had alighted.  One was a mineralogist, a
+scientific, green-spectacled figure in black, bearing a heavy
+hammer, with which he did great damage to the precipices, and put
+the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed young man,
+who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a
+quotation from some of Byron's rhapsodies on mountain scenery.
+There was also a trader, returning from Portland to the upper part
+of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint bloom like one
+of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur among
+alpine cliffs.
+
+They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine
+forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own
+dismal shade.  Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre,
+surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine
+long before it left the external world.  It was here that we
+obtained our first view, except at a distance, of the principal
+group of mountains.  They are majestic, and even awful, when
+contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the
+long ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather
+than of towering height.  Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to
+Heaven: he was white with snow a mile downward, and had caught the
+only cloud that was sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head.
+Let us forget the other names of American statesmen that have been
+stamped upon these hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON.
+Mountains are Earth's undecaying monuments.  They must stand while
+she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men
+of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose
+glory is universal, and whom all time will render illustrious.
+
+The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two
+thousand feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a
+clear November evening in the lowlands.  By morning, probably, there
+would be a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an
+icy surface over the standing water.  I was glad to perceive a
+prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were
+approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were
+assembled at the door.
+
+
+
+OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
+
+WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in
+that wild country.  A sign over the door denoted it to be the White
+Mountain Post-Office,--an establishment which distributes letters
+and newspapers to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the
+population of two or three townships among the hills.  The broad and
+weighty antlers of a deer, "a stag of ten," were fastened at the
+corner of the house; a fox's bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and
+a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still
+bleeding, the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected
+about the doorsteps, the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer,
+of six feet two, and corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of
+features, such as might be moulded on his own blacksmith's anvil,
+but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor.  As we appeared,
+he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a
+tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an
+echo from the opposite hill.
+
+Ethan Crawford's guests were of such a motley description as to form
+quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place
+like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and
+the homely inn of country travellers.  Among the company at the door
+were the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we
+had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had
+chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount
+Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of
+Burlington and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young
+married couples, all the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial
+jaunt.  Besides these strangers, the rugged county of Coos, in which
+we were, was represented by half a dozen wood-cutters, who had slain
+a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw.
+
+I had joined the party, and had a moment's leisure to examine them
+before the echo of Ethan's blast returned from the hill. Not one,
+but many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound,
+untwisted its complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial
+harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone.  It was a distinct yet distant
+and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy band
+had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons.
+No subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a
+concert as the first.  A field-piece was then discharged from the
+top of a neighboring hill, and gave birth to one long reverberation,
+which ran round the circle of mountains in an unbroken chain of
+sound and rolled away without a separate echo.  After these
+experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house, with
+the keenest appetites for supper.
+
+It did one's heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in
+the parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace
+was built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an
+old tree for a backlog.
+
+A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very
+door.  In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held
+our hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and
+began a pleasant variety of conversation.  The mineralogist and the
+physician talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain
+air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford's father, an old man
+of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life.  The two
+brides and the doctor's wife held a whispered discussion, which, by
+their frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have
+reference to the trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state.  The
+bridegrooms sat together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers
+whom the spirit moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of
+bashfulness towards their own young wives.  The Green Mountain
+squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he
+had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut
+River through the Notch to Conway, now a single day's journey,
+though it had cost him eighteen.  The Georgians held the album
+between them, and favored us with the few specimens of its contents,
+which they considered ridiculous enough to be worth hearing.  One
+extract met with deserved applause.  It was a "Sonnet to the Snow on
+Mount Washington," and had been contributed that very afternoon,
+bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals.
+The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from
+familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those
+curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on
+the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman
+of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the
+composure of a veteran.
+
+Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement.  But on a
+winter evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where
+these summer travellers were now sitting.  I once had it in
+contemplation to spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for
+the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each
+other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland.
+There could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan
+Crawford's inn.  Let the student go thither in December, sit down
+with the teamsters at their meals, share their evening merriment,
+and repose with them at night when every bed has its three
+occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with
+slumberers around the fire.  Then let him rise before daylight,
+button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the
+departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head
+against the blast.  A treasure of characteristic traits will repay
+all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number.
+
+The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere,
+and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that
+the father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by
+ascending the peak of Mount Washington.  The children of that pair
+have been overwhelmed, and found no such refuge.  In the mythology
+of the savage, these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and
+inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty
+heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities,
+who sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on
+the lower world.  There are few legends more poetical than that of
+the "Great Carbuncle" of the White Mountains.  The belief was
+communicated to the English settlers, and is hardly yet extinct,
+that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen shining miles away,
+hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among the hills.
+They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an
+unutterable yearning to possess it.  But a spirit guarded that
+inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist
+from the enchanted lake.  Thus life was worn away in the vain search
+for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went up
+the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more.  On
+this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral.
+
+The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions
+of the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their
+haunted region.  The habits and sentiments of that departed people
+were too distinct from those of their successors to find much real
+sympathy.  It has often been a matter of regret to me that I was
+shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an
+inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in
+the Indian character, at least till such traits were pointed out by
+others.  I do abhor an Indian story.  Yet no writer can be more
+secure of a permanent place in our literature than the biographer of
+the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring to tribes which have
+mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be placed on a
+classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there.
+
+I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our
+mineralogist had found the three "Silver Hills" which an Indian
+sachem sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the
+treasure of which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking
+for ever since.  But the man of science had ransacked every hill
+along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles of
+wealth.  By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great
+adventure, we had prolonged our session deep into the night,
+considering how early we were to set out on our six miles' ride to
+the foot of Mount Washington.  There was now a general breaking up.
+I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw but little
+probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the
+first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to
+climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as
+it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of my
+unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part,
+though we were to seek for the "Great Carbuncle."
+
+
+
+THE CANAL-BOAT.
+
+I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal.  In my
+imagination De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his
+magic wand from the Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery
+highway, crowded with the commerce of two worlds, till then
+inaccessible to each other.  This simple and mighty conception had
+conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have
+thrown carelessly into the great body of the earth, without
+foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I pictured the
+surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first glittered
+by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign commodities in
+exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce.  Surely the water
+of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it
+causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches
+and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and
+refinement, their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up,
+till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two continuous
+lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to
+Albany.  I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to
+voyage along the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the
+course of the summer.
+
+Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our
+vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in
+mythological pictures.  Bound to a distant port, we had neither
+chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of
+a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our
+adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle
+it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the
+land paid contribution to it.  With an imperceptible current, it
+holds its drowsy way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive
+scenery that could be found between the great lakes and the sea-
+coast.  Yet there is variety enough, both on the surface of the
+canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an
+overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions.
+
+Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with
+lumber, salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both
+ends like a square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were
+fated always to advance backward.  On its deck would be a square
+hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household work, with
+a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange
+dwelling and knew no other home.  Thus, while the husband smoked his
+pipe at the helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went
+the family, travelling hundreds of miles in their own house and
+carrying their fireside with them.  The most frequent species of
+craft were the "line-boats," which had a cabin at each end, and a
+great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light
+packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows
+from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every one.  Once we
+encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in gloomy
+black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence and
+with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among
+the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit
+from the white mail's mighty projects and float along the current of
+his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath
+a clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and
+sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to
+Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors,
+scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making
+merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words.  One pretty
+damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a
+mirthful remark to me.  She spoke in her native tongue, and I
+retorted in good English, both of us laughing heartily at each
+other's unintelligible wit.  I cannot describe how pleasantly this
+incident affected me.  These honest Swiss were all itinerant
+community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among
+a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand
+their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining
+the happy lightness of their own spirit.
+
+Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in
+a dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the
+diversified panorama along the banks of the canal.  Sometimes the
+scene was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away
+occasionally and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal
+black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a log-
+cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window.  Lean and aguish,
+she looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and
+dwelling in a desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her
+door.  Two or three miles farther would bring us to a lock, where
+the slight impediment to navigation had created a little mart of
+trade.  Here would be found commodities of all sorts, enumerated in
+yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the
+owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and
+small change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his
+gains on the blessed Sabbath.  The next scene might be the dwelling-
+houses and stores of a thriving village, built of wood or small gray
+stones, a church-spire rising in the midst, and generally two
+taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous titles of "hotel,"
+"exchange," "tontine," or "coffee-house."  Passing on, we glide now
+into the unquiet heart of an inland city,--of Utica, for instance,--
+and find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and quays,
+rich warehouses, and a busy population.  We feel the eager and
+hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us
+along with it.  Through the thickest of the tumult goes the canal,
+flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges of hewn
+stone.  Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of struggling
+enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue of the
+ancient woods again.
+
+This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality
+that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement.
+An English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-
+stick, and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending
+an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which
+abound in the dirty water of the canal.  I, also, pelted these
+foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness
+of their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a
+thing of life.  Several little accidents afforded us good-natured
+diversion.  At the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a
+Massachusetts farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very
+indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb.
+A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to step on deck
+as the boat emerged from under a bridge.  Another, in his Sunday
+clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from
+the bank, forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the
+canal, and was fished out in a very pitiable plight, not at all
+amended by our three rounds of applause.  Anon a Virginia
+schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the helmsman's
+warning, "Bridge! bridge!" was saluted by the said bridge on his
+knowledge-box.  I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his
+idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully
+expected to see the treasures of the poor man's cranium scattered
+about the deck.  However, as there was no harm done, except a large
+bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge,
+the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly.  O, bow
+pitiless are idle people!
+
+
+.     .     .     .     .     .     .    .
+
+The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for
+supper, the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on
+the canal, the same space at dinner excepted.  At the close of the
+meal it had become dusky enough for lamplight.  The rain pattered
+unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush
+against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred through an
+opening of the forest.  The intolerable dulness of the scene
+engendered an evil spirit in me.  Perceiving that the Englishman was
+taking notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the
+cabin, I presumed that we were all to figure in a future volume of
+travels, and amused my ill-humor by falling into the probable vein
+of his remarks.  He would hold up an imaginary mirror, wherein our
+reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous, yet still retain
+all undeniable likeness to the originals.  Then, with more sweeping
+malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great
+classes of my countrymen.
+
+He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to
+recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College
+in the conjugation of a Greek verb.  Him the Englishman would
+portray as the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a
+school-boy's Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse
+put together.  Next the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer,
+who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday
+mails.  Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion,
+writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every
+morning and eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted
+information is merely an abstract and compound of newspaper
+paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus harangues, and the argument and
+judge's charge in his own lawsuits.  The book-monger cast his eye at
+a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster than ever.  In this
+sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see daring
+enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined.  Here is the
+worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt,
+richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to
+say it!) here is the American.  He lifted his eyeglass to inspect a
+Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance, reddened, and
+retired deeper into the female part of the cabin.  Here was the
+pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of America,--shrinking
+when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased flesh, that
+thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without
+confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with
+such a quick apprehension of all impurity.
+
+In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as
+hard a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal
+Englishman.  At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the
+looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected,
+and among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently
+observing myself.
+
+.     .     .     .     .     .     .    .
+
+The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen,
+the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on
+shelves one above another.  For a long time our various
+incommodities kept us all awake except five or six, who were
+accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring,
+and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance.  It
+is a curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people
+in the boat while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others
+cease to be so, breathing tumult out of their repose.  Would it were
+possible to affix a wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make
+melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover might serenade his
+mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune!  Other, though
+fainter, sounds than these contributed to my restlessness.  My head
+was close to the crimson curtain,--the sexual division of the boat,
+--behind which I continually heard whispers and stealthy footsteps;
+the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped on the
+floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a
+tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing
+of a pair of stays.  My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye;
+a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was
+withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself
+without a blush.
+
+Finally all was hushed in that quarter.  Still I was more broad
+awake than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish
+impulse to toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of
+mind by that of matter.  Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide
+as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on
+the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of sleepers.
+As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on
+deck.  A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the
+crew was stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the
+ocean.  Though the rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and
+the darkness so intense that there seemed to be no world except the
+little space on which our lanterns glimmered.  Yet it was an
+impressive scene.
+
+We were traversing the "long level," a dead flat between Utica and
+Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a
+lock for nearly seventy miles.  There can hardly be a more dismal
+tract of country.  The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of
+white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive
+moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of
+the swamp into the great ditch of the canal.  Sometimes, indeed, our
+lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched
+far in among the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark
+foliage.  But generally the tall stems and intermingled branches
+were naked, and brought into strong relief amid the surrounding
+gloom by the whiteness of their decay.  Often we beheld the
+prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed
+down smaller trees under its immense ruin.  In spots where
+destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred
+trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground, resting
+on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the
+darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate
+confusion.  Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and
+vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and
+bounded by it, the scene was ghostlike,--the very land of
+unsubstantial things, whither dreams might betake themselves when
+they quit the slumberer's brain.
+
+My fancy found another emblem.  The wild nature of America had been
+driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man.
+And even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of
+her empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding
+on her latest solitude.  In other lands decay sits among fallen
+palaces; but here her home is in the forests.
+
+Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach
+of another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old
+scow,--just such a craft as the "Flying Dutchman" would navigate on
+the canal.  Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I
+imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough
+great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a
+hundred yards behind.  Shortly after our boatman blew a horn,
+sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a
+signal for some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change
+of horses.  We had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when
+the tow-rope got entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the
+canal, and caused a momentary delay, during which I went to examine
+the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the forest.  It
+was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed.
+
+The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass
+of diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full
+of conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light,
+illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the
+dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its
+brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike
+torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze
+coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the
+canal.  I recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering
+far away.
+
+"Boat ahoy!" shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists.
+
+Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of
+the woods, it produced no effect.  These packet-boats make up for
+their snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially
+for those who have paid their fare.  Indeed, the captain had an
+interest in getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a
+breakfast.
+
+"They are gone, Heaven be praised!" ejaculated I; "for I cannot
+possibly overtake them.  Here am I, on the 'long level,' at
+midnight, with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where
+my baggage will be left.  And now to find a house or shed wherein to
+pass the night."  So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old
+tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and,
+like a jack-o'-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour.
+
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***
+By Nathaniel Hawthorne
+
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