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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/9233-0.txt b/9233-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..713b2b7 --- /dev/null +++ b/9233-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,898 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches from Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: Sketches from Memory + +Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Release Date: September 6, 2003 [eBook #9233] +[Most recently updated: November 9, 2022] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: David Widger and Al Haines + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + + + + +Sketches from Memory + +by Nathaniel Hawthorne + + + + +THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS + +It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from +Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends +between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often as +level as a church-aisle. All that day and two preceding ones we had +been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,—those old +crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our distant +wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height after height had +risen and towered one above another till the clouds began to hang below +the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of the slides, those +avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which descend into the hollows, +leaving vestiges of their track hardly to be effaced by the vegetation +of ages. We had mountains behind us and mountains on each side, and a +group of mightier ones ahead. Still our road went up along the Saco, +right towards the centre of that group, as if to climb above the clouds +in its passage to the farther region. + +In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the +Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart +through some defile known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a wondrous +path. A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans, was +travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside as he +passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand directly across +his intended road. He tarries not for such an obstacle, but, rending it +asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, discloses its treasures of +hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all the secrets of the mountain’s +inmost heart, with a mighty fracture of rugged precipices on each side. +This is the Notch of the White Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted +to describe it by so mean an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of +those symbolic scenes which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not +to the conception, of Omnipotence. + + +We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the appearance +of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the solid rock. +There was a wall of granite on each side, high and precipitous, +especially on our right, and so smooth that a few evergreens could +hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is the entrance, or, in +the direction we were going, the extremity, of the romantic defile of +the Notch. Before emerging from it, the rattling of wheels approached +behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled out of the mountain, with seats on +top and trunks behind, and a smart driver, in a drab great-coat, +touching the wheel-horses with the whip-stock and reigning in the +leaders. To my mind there was a sort of poetry in such an incident, +hardly inferior to what would have accompanied the painted array of an +Indian war-party gliding forth from the same wild chasm. All the +passengers, except a very fat lady on the back seat, had alighted. One +was a mineralogist, a scientific, green-spectacled figure in black, +bearing a heavy hammer, with which he did great damage to the +precipices, and put the fragments in his pocket. Another was a +well-dressed young man, who carried an operaglass set in gold, and +seemed to be making a quotation from some of Byron’s rhapsodies on +mountain scenery. There was also a trader, returning from Portland to +the upper part of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint +bloom like one of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur +among alpine cliffs. + +They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine +forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own +dismal shade. Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre, +surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine +long before it left the external world. It was here that we obtained +our first view, except at a distance, of the principal group of +mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when contemplated in a +proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the long ridges which +support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather than of towering +height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to Heaven: he was white +with snow a mile downward, and had caught the only cloud that was +sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head. Let us forget the +other names of American statesmen that have been stamped upon these +hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON. Mountains are Earth’s +undecaying monuments. They must stand while she endures, and never +should be consecrated to the mere great men of their own age and +country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose glory is universal, and +whom all time will render illustrious. + +The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two thousand +feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a clear +November evening in the lowlands. By morning, probably, there would be +a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an icy surface +over the standing water. I was glad to perceive a prospect of +comfortable quarters in a house which we were approaching, and of +pleasant company in the guests who were assembled at the door. + +OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS + +WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in that +wild country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White Mountain +Post-Office,—an establishment which distributes letters and newspapers +to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the population of two or +three townships among the hills. The broad and weighty antlers of a +deer, “a stag of ten,” were fastened at the corner of the house; a +fox’s bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and a huge black paw lay on +the ground, newly severed and still bleeding, the trophy of a +bear-hunt. Among several persons collected about the doorsteps, the +most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, of six feet two, and +corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of features, such as might be +moulded on his own blacksmith’s anvil, but yet indicative of mother wit +and rough humor. As we appeared, he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or +five feet long, and blew a tremendous blast, either in honor of our +arrival or to awaken an echo from the opposite hill. + +Ethan Crawford’s guests were of such a motley description as to form +quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place +like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and the +homely inn of country travellers. Among the company at the door were +the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we had +encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had chilled their +Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount Washington; a physician +and his wife from Conway; a trader of Burlington and an old squire of +the Green Mountains; and two young married couples, all the way from +Massachusetts, on the matrimonial jaunt. Besides these strangers, the +rugged county of Coos, in which we were, was represented by half a +dozen wood-cutters, who had slain a bear in the forest and smitten off +his paw. + +I had joined the party, and had a moment’s leisure to examine them +before the echo of Ethan’s blast returned from the hill. Not one, but +many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, untwisted its +complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial harmonies in one stern +trumpet-tone. It was a distinct yet distant and dream-like symphony of +melodious instruments, as if an airy band had been hidden on the +hillside and made faint music at the summons. No subsequent trial +produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a concert as the first. A +field-piece was then discharged from the top of a neighboring hill, and +gave birth to one long reverberation, which ran round the circle of +mountains in an unbroken chain of sound and rolled away without a +separate echo. After these experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us +all into the house, with the keenest appetites for supper. + +It did one’s heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in the +parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace was +built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an old tree +for a backlog. + +A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very +door. In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held our +hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and began a +pleasant variety of conversation. The mineralogist and the physician +talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain air, and its +excellent effect on Ethan Crawford’s father, an old man of +seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The two brides +and the doctor’s wife held a whispered discussion, which, by their +frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have reference to the +trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The bridegrooms sat +together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers whom the spirit +moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of bashfulness towards +their own young wives. The Green Mountain squire chose me for his +companion, and described the difficulties he had met with half a +century ago in travelling from the Connecticut River through the Notch +to Conway, now a single day’s journey, though it had cost him eighteen. +The Georgians held the album between them, and favored us with the few +specimens of its contents, which they considered ridiculous enough to +be worth hearing. One extract met with deserved applause. It was a +“Sonnet to the Snow on Mount Washington,” and had been contributed that +very afternoon, bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines +and annuals. The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote +from familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those +curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on +the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman of +the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the +composure of a veteran. + +Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a winter +evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where these +summer travellers were now sitting. I once had it in contemplation to +spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for the sake of studying +the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each other through the Notch +by hundreds, on their way to Portland. There could be no better school +for such a purpose than Ethan Crawford’s inn. Let the student go +thither in December, sit down with the teamsters at their meals, share +their evening merriment, and repose with them at night when every bed +has its three occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn +with slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight, +button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the +departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head +against the blast. A treasure of characteristic traits will repay all +inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number. + +The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere, +and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that the +father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by ascending +the peak of Mount Washington. The children of that pair have been +overwhelmed, and found no such refuge. In the mythology of the savage, +these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and inaccessible, +full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty heights by the blaze of +precious stones, and inhabited by deities, who sometimes shrouded +themselves in the snow-storm and came down on the lower world. There +are few legends more poetical than that of the “Great Carbuncle” of the +White Mountains. The belief was communicated to the English settlers, +and is hardly yet extinct, that a gem, of such immense size as to be +seen shining miles away, hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, +high up among the hills. They who had once beheld its splendor were +enthralled with an unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit +guarded that inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a +dark mist from the enchanted lake. Thus life was worn away in the vain +search for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went +up the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more. On +this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral. + +The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions of +the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their haunted +region. The habits and sentiments of that departed people were too +distinct from those of their successors to find much real sympathy. It +has often been a matter of regret to me that I was shut out from the +most peculiar field of American fiction by an inability to see any +romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in the Indian character, at +least till such traits were pointed out by others. I do abhor an Indian +story. Yet no writer can be more secure of a permanent place in our +literature than the biographer of the Indian chiefs. His subject, as +referring to tribes which have mostly vanished from the earth, gives +him a right to be placed on a classic shelf, apart from the merits +which will sustain him there. + +I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our +mineralogist had found the three “Silver Hills” which an Indian sachem +sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the treasure of +which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking for ever since. +But the man of science had ransacked every hill along the Saco, and +knew nothing of these prodigious piles of wealth. By this time, as +usual with men on the eve of great adventure, we had prolonged our +session deep into the night, considering how early we were to set out +on our six miles’ ride to the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a +general breaking up. I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, +and saw but little probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly +bliss, in the first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of +three, to climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind +was as it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of +my unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part, +though we were to seek for the “Great Carbuncle.” + +THE CANAL-BOAT + +I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my imagination +De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his magic wand from the +Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery highway, crowded with +the commerce of two worlds, till then inaccessible to each other. This +simple and mighty conception had conferred inestimable value on spots +which Nature seemed to have thrown carelessly into the great body of +the earth, without foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I +pictured the surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first +glittered by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign +commodities in exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely +the water of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for +it causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches +and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and refinement, +their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up, till in time the +wondrous stream may flow between two continuous lines of buildings, +through one thronged street, from Buffalo to Albany. I embarked about +thirty miles below Utica, determining to voyage along the whole extent +of the canal at least twice in the course of the summer. + +Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our +vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in +mythological pictures. Bound to a distant port, we had neither chart +nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of a +billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our +adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle it +seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the land paid +contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it holds its drowsy +way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive scenery that could +be found between the great lakes and the sea-coast. Yet there is +variety enough, both on the surface of the canal and along its banks, +to amuse the traveller, if an overpowering tedium did not deaden his +perceptions. + +Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with lumber, +salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both ends like a +square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were fated always to +advance backward. On its deck would be a square hut, and a woman seen +through the window at her household work, with a little tribe of +children who perhaps had been born in this strange dwelling and knew no +other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his pipe at the helm and the +eldest son rode one of the horses, on went the family, travelling +hundreds of miles in their own house and carrying their fireside with +them. The most frequent species of craft were the “line-boats,” which +had a cabin at each end, and a great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes +in the midst, or light packets like our own decked all over with a row +of curtained windows from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every +one. Once we encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in +gloomy black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence +and with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among +the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit +from the white mail’s mighty projects and float along the current of +his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath a +clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and +sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to +Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors, scarlet, +yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making merry in odd +tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty damsel, with a +beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a mirthful remark to me. +She spoke in her native tongue, and I retorted in good English, both of +us laughing heartily at each other’s unintelligible wit. I cannot +describe how pleasantly this incident affected me. These honest Swiss +were all itinerant community of jest and fun journeying through a +gloomy land and among a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting +none to understand their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet +still retaining the happy lightness of their own spirit. + +Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in a +dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the +diversified panorama along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the scene +was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away occasionally +and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal black stumps, +where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a log-cottage and a +sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, she looked like +poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and dwelling in a desert, +while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her door. Two or three miles +farther would bring us to a lock, where the slight impediment to +navigation had created a little mart of trade. Here would be found +commodities of all sorts, enumerated in yellow letters on the +window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the owner of which had set +his soul to the gathering of coppers and small change, buying and +selling through the week, and counting his gains on the blessed +Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling-houses and stores of a +thriving village, built of wood or small gray stones, a church-spire +rising in the midst, and generally two taverns, bearing over their +piazzas the pompous titles of “hotel,” “exchange,” “tontine,” or +“coffee-house.” Passing on, we glide now into the unquiet heart of an +inland city,—of Utica, for instance,—and find ourselves amid piles of +brick, crowded docks and quays, rich warehouses, and a busy population. +We feel the eager and hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and +eddy whirling us along with it. Through the thickest of the tumult goes +the canal, flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges +of hewn stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of +struggling enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue +of the ancient woods again. + +This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality +that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. An +English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick, +and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending an +unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which abound +in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted these foolish birds +with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness of their +scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a thing of +life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured diversion. At +the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a Massachusetts +farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very indescribable posture, +leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb. A new passenger fell flat +on his back in attempting to step on deck as the boat emerged from +under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday clothes, as good luck would have +it, being told to leap aboard from the bank, forthwith plunged up to +his third waistcoat-button in the canal, and was fished out in a very +pitiable plight, not at all amended by our three rounds of applause. +Anon a Virginia schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the +helmsman’s warning, “Bridge! bridge!” was saluted by the said bridge on +his knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his +idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully +expected to see the treasures of the poor man’s cranium scattered about +the deck. However, as there was no harm done, except a large bump on +the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge, the rest of +us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow pitiless are idle +people! + + +The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for supper, +the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on the canal, +the same space at dinner excepted. At the close of the meal it had +become dusky enough for lamplight. The rain pattered unceasingly on the +deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush against the windows, driven +by the wind as it stirred through an opening of the forest. The +intolerable dulness of the scene engendered an evil spirit in me. +Perceiving that the Englishman was taking notes in a memorandum-book, +with occasional glances round the cabin, I presumed that we were all to +figure in a future volume of travels, and amused my ill-humor by +falling into the probable vein of his remarks. He would hold up an +imaginary mirror, wherein our reflected faces would appear ugly and +ridiculous, yet still retain all undeniable likeness to the originals. +Then, with more sweeping malice, he would make these caricatures the +representatives of great classes of my countrymen. + +He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to +recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College in +the conjugation of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would portray as +the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a school-boy’s +Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse put together. Next +the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer, who was delivering a +dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday mails. Here was the +far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion, writes the Englishman, +is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every morning and eventide, and +illiberality at all times; his boasted information is merely an +abstract and compound of newspaper paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus +harangues, and the argument and judge’s charge in his own lawsuits. The +book-monger cast his eye at a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling +faster than ever. In this sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled +brow, we see daring enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here +is the worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times +bankrupt, richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked +Englishman to say it!) here is the American. He lifted his eyeglass to +inspect a Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance, +reddened, and retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here +was the pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of +America,—shrinking when no evil is intended, and sensitive like +diseased flesh, that thrills if you but point at it; and strangely +modest, without confidence in the modesty of other people; and +admirably pure, with such a quick apprehension of all impurity. + +In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as hard +a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal +Englishman. At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the +looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected, and +among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently observing +myself. + + +The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen, +the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on +shelves one above another. For a long time our various incommodities +kept us all awake except five or six, who were accustomed to sleep +nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring, and had little to dread +from any other species of disturbance. It is a curious fact that these +snorers had been the most quiet people in the boat while awake, and +became peace-breakers only when others cease to be so, breathing tumult +out of their repose. Would it were possible to affix a wind-instrument +to the nose, and thus make melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover +might serenade his mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune! +Other, though fainter, sounds than these contributed to my +restlessness. My head was close to the crimson curtain,—the sexual +division of the boat,—behind which I continually heard whispers and +stealthy footsteps; the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper +dropped on the floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by +loosening a tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the +unlacing of a pair of stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an +eye; a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was +withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself +without a blush. + +Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad awake +than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish impulse to +toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of mind by that +of matter. Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide as a coffin, I +turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on the floor, to the +disturbance of the whole community of sleepers. As there were no bones +broken, I blessed the accident and went on deck. A lantern was burning +at each end of the boat, and one of the crew was stationed at the bows, +keeping watch, as mariners do on the ocean. Though the rain had ceased, +the sky was all one cloud, and the darkness so intense that there +seemed to be no world except the little space on which our lanterns +glimmered. Yet it was an impressive scene. + +We were traversing the “long level,” a dead flat between Utica and +Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a lock +for nearly seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal tract of +country. The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of white-cedar, +black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive moisture, is now +decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of the swamp into the +great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our lights were reflected +from pools of stagnant water which stretched far in among the trunks of +the trees, beneath dense masses of dark foliage. But generally the tall +stems and intermingled branches were naked, and brought into strong +relief amid the surrounding gloom by the whiteness of their decay. +Often we beheld the prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had +fallen and crushed down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots +where destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a +hundred trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground, +resting on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the +darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate +confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and vanishing +as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and bounded by it, +the scene was ghostlike,—the very land of unsubstantial things, whither +dreams might betake themselves when they quit the slumberer’s brain. + +My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been +driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. And +even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of her +empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding on her +latest solitude. In other lands decay sits among fallen palaces; but +here her home is in the forests. + +Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach of +another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old +scow,—just such a craft as the “Flying Dutchman” would navigate on the +canal. Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I +imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough +great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a +hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn, sending a +long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a signal for +some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change of horses. We +had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when the tow-rope got +entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the canal, and caused a +momentary delay, during which I went to examine the phosphoric light of +an old tree a little within the forest. It was not the first delusive +radiance that I had followed. + +The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass of +diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full of +conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light, +illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the +dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its brilliancy +to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike torches were +just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze coldly in tombs, +when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the canal. I +recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering far away. + +“Boat ahoy!” shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists. + +Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of +the woods, it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for their +snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially for those +who have paid their fare. Indeed, the captain had an interest in +getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a breakfast. + +“They are gone, Heaven be praised!” ejaculated I; “for I cannot +possibly overtake them. Here am I, on the ‘long level,’ at midnight, +with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where my baggage +will be left. And now to find a house or shed wherein to pass the +night.” So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old tree, +burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and, like a +jack-o’-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Sketches from Memory</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 6, 2003 [eBook #9233]<br /> +[Most recently updated: November 9, 2022]</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: David Widger and Al Haines</div> +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***</div> + +<h1>Sketches from Memory</h1> + +<h2 class="no-break">by Nathaniel Hawthorne</h2> + +<hr /> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h3>THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS</h3> + +<p> +It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from Bartlett, +passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends between mountainous +walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often as level as a church-aisle. All +that day and two preceding ones we had been loitering towards the heart of the +White Mountains,—those old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had +gleamed upon our distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height +after height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began to +hang below the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of the slides, +those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which descend into the hollows, +leaving vestiges of their track hardly to be effaced by the vegetation of ages. +We had mountains behind us and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier +ones ahead. Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of +that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the farther +region. +</p> + +<p> +In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the Northern +Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart through some defile +known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a wondrous path. A demon, it might be +fancied, or one of the Titans, was travelling up the valley, elbowing the +heights carelessly aside as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its +stand directly across his intended road. He tarries not for such an obstacle, +but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, discloses its +treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all the secrets of the +mountain’s inmost heart, with a mighty fracture of rugged precipices on each +side. This is the Notch of the White Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted +to describe it by so mean an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those +symbolic scenes which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the +conception, of Omnipotence. +</p> + +<hr /> + +<p> +We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the appearance of +having been cut by human strength and artifice in the solid rock. There was a +wall of granite on each side, high and precipitous, especially on our right, +and so smooth that a few evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow +there. This is the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity, +of the romantic defile of the Notch. Before emerging from it, the rattling of +wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled out of the mountain, +with seats on top and trunks behind, and a smart driver, in a drab great-coat, +touching the wheel-horses with the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To +my mind there was a sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what +would have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding forth +from the same wild chasm. All the passengers, except a very fat lady on the +back seat, had alighted. One was a mineralogist, a scientific, green-spectacled +figure in black, bearing a heavy hammer, with which he did great damage to the +precipices, and put the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed +young man, who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a +quotation from some of Byron’s rhapsodies on mountain scenery. There was also a +trader, returning from Portland to the upper part of Vermont; and a fair young +girl, with a very faint bloom like one of those pale and delicate flowers which +sometimes occur among alpine cliffs. +</p> + +<p> +They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine forest, +which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own dismal shade. +Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre, surrounded by a great +rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine long before it left the external +world. It was here that we obtained our first view, except at a distance, of +the principal group of mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when +contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the long +ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather than of +towering height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to Heaven: he was white +with snow a mile downward, and had caught the only cloud that was sailing +through the atmosphere to veil his head. Let us forget the other names of +American statesmen that have been stamped upon these hills, but still call the +loftiest WASHINGTON. Mountains are Earth’s undecaying monuments. They must +stand while she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men +of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose glory is +universal, and whom all time will render illustrious. +</p> + +<p> +The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two thousand feet +above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a clear November evening in +the lowlands. By morning, probably, there would be a frost, if not a snowfall, +on the grass and rye, and an icy surface over the standing water. I was glad to +perceive a prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were +approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were assembled at the +door. +</p> + +<h3>OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS</h3> + +<p> +WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in that wild +country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White Mountain +Post-Office,—an establishment which distributes letters and newspapers to +perhaps a score of persons, comprising the population of two or three townships +among the hills. The broad and weighty antlers of a deer, “a stag of ten,” were +fastened at the corner of the house; a fox’s bushy tail was nailed beneath +them; and a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still bleeding, +the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected about the doorsteps, +the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, of six feet two, and +corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of features, such as might be moulded on +his own blacksmith’s anvil, but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor. +As we appeared, he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a +tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an echo from the +opposite hill. +</p> + +<p> +Ethan Crawford’s guests were of such a motley description as to form quite a +picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place like this, at once +the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and the homely inn of country +travellers. Among the company at the door were the mineralogist and the owner +of the gold operaglass whom we had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian +gentlemen, who had chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of +Mount Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of Burlington +and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young married couples, all +the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial jaunt. Besides these strangers, +the rugged county of Coos, in which we were, was represented by half a dozen +wood-cutters, who had slain a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw. +</p> + +<p> +I had joined the party, and had a moment’s leisure to examine them before the +echo of Ethan’s blast returned from the hill. Not one, but many echoes had +caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, untwisted its complicated threads, and +found a thousand aerial harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone. It was a distinct +yet distant and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy +band had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons. No +subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a concert as the +first. A field-piece was then discharged from the top of a neighboring hill, +and gave birth to one long reverberation, which ran round the circle of +mountains in an unbroken chain of sound and rolled away without a separate +echo. After these experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house, +with the keenest appetites for supper. +</p> + +<p> +It did one’s heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in the parlor +and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace was built of rough +stone, and might have contained the trunk of an old tree for a backlog. +</p> + +<p> +A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very door. In +the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held our hands before our +eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and began a pleasant variety of +conversation. The mineralogist and the physician talked about the invigorating +qualities of the mountain air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford’s +father, an old man of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The +two brides and the doctor’s wife held a whispered discussion, which, by their +frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have reference to the trials +or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The bridegrooms sat together in a +corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers whom the spirit moveth not, being still in +the odd predicament of bashfulness towards their own young wives. The Green +Mountain squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he +had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut River +through the Notch to Conway, now a single day’s journey, though it had cost him +eighteen. The Georgians held the album between them, and favored us with the +few specimens of its contents, which they considered ridiculous enough to be +worth hearing. One extract met with deserved applause. It was a “Sonnet to the +Snow on Mount Washington,” and had been contributed that very afternoon, +bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals. The lines +were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from familiar sentiment, and +cold as their subject, resembling those curious specimens of crystallized vapor +which I observed next day on the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be +the young gentleman of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks +with the composure of a veteran. +</p> + +<p> +Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a winter evening +another set of guests assembled at the hearth where these summer travellers +were now sitting. I once had it in contemplation to spend a month hereabouts, +in sleighing-time, for the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then +elbow each other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland. There +could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan Crawford’s inn. Let the +student go thither in December, sit down with the teamsters at their meals, +share their evening merriment, and repose with them at night when every bed has +its three occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with +slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight, button his +great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the departing caravan a mile or +two, to see how sturdily they make head against the blast. A treasure of +characteristic traits will repay all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose +be of the number. +</p> + +<p> +The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere, and we +recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that the father and +mother of their race were saved from a deluge by ascending the peak of Mount +Washington. The children of that pair have been overwhelmed, and found no such +refuge. In the mythology of the savage, these mountains were afterwards +considered sacred and inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at +lofty heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities, who +sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on the lower +world. There are few legends more poetical than that of the “Great Carbuncle” +of the White Mountains. The belief was communicated to the English settlers, +and is hardly yet extinct, that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen +shining miles away, hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among +the hills. They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an +unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit guarded that inestimable +jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist from the enchanted lake. +Thus life was worn away in the vain search for an unearthly treasure, till at +length the deluded one went up the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but +returned no more. On this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep +moral. +</p> + +<p> +The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions of the red +men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their haunted region. The habits +and sentiments of that departed people were too distinct from those of their +successors to find much real sympathy. It has often been a matter of regret to +me that I was shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an +inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in the Indian +character, at least till such traits were pointed out by others. I do abhor an +Indian story. Yet no writer can be more secure of a permanent place in our +literature than the biographer of the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring +to tribes which have mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be +placed on a classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there. +</p> + +<p> +I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our mineralogist +had found the three “Silver Hills” which an Indian sachem sold to an Englishman +nearly two hundred years ago, and the treasure of which the posterity of the +purchaser have been looking for ever since. But the man of science had +ransacked every hill along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles +of wealth. By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great adventure, we +had prolonged our session deep into the night, considering how early we were to +set out on our six miles’ ride to the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a +general breaking up. I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw +but little probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the +first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to climb above the +clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as it rushed through a broken +pane and eddied between the chinks of my unplastered chamber, did I anticipate +much alacrity on my own part, though we were to seek for the “Great Carbuncle.” +</p> + +<h3>THE CANAL-BOAT</h3> + +<p> +I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my imagination De Witt +Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his magic wand from the Hudson to Lake +Erie and united them by a watery highway, crowded with the commerce of two +worlds, till then inaccessible to each other. This simple and mighty conception +had conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have thrown +carelessly into the great body of the earth, without foreseeing that they could +ever attain importance. I pictured the surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the +new river first glittered by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign +commodities in exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely the +water of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it causes +towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches and theatres, their +business and hubbub, their luxury and refinement, their gay dames and polished +citizens, to spring up, till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two +continuous lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to +Albany. I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to voyage along +the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the course of the summer. +</p> + +<p> +Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our vessel, like +the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in mythological pictures. Bound +to a distant port, we had neither chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind, +nor felt the heaving of a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the +tempest, in our adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a +mudpuddle it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the land paid +contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it holds its drowsy way +through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive scenery that could be found +between the great lakes and the sea-coast. Yet there is variety enough, both on +the surface of the canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an +overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions. +</p> + +<p> +Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with lumber, salt from +Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both ends like a square-toed boot, as +if it had two sterns, and were fated always to advance backward. On its deck +would be a square hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household +work, with a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange +dwelling and knew no other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his pipe at the +helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went the family, travelling +hundreds of miles in their own house and carrying their fireside with them. The +most frequent species of craft were the “line-boats,” which had a cabin at each +end, and a great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light +packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows from stem +to stern, and a drowsy face at every one. Once we encountered a boat of rude +construction, painted all in gloomy black, and manned by three Indians, who +gazed at us in silence and with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these +three alone, among the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive +benefit from the white mail’s mighty projects and float along the current of +his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath a clouded +sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and sunshine. It contained +a little colony of Swiss on their way to Michigan, clad in garments of strange +fashion and gay colors, scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, +and making merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty +damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a mirthful remark +to me. She spoke in her native tongue, and I retorted in good English, both of +us laughing heartily at each other’s unintelligible wit. I cannot describe how +pleasantly this incident affected me. These honest Swiss were all itinerant +community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among a dull +race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand their mirth, and only +one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining the happy lightness of their own +spirit. +</p> + +<p> +Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in a dirty +canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the diversified panorama +along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the scene was a forest, dark, dense, +and impervious, breaking away occasionally and receding from a lonely tract, +covered with dismal black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be +seen a log-cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, she +looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and dwelling in a +desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her door. Two or three miles +farther would bring us to a lock, where the slight impediment to navigation had +created a little mart of trade. Here would be found commodities of all sorts, +enumerated in yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store, +the owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and small +change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his gains on the +blessed Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling-houses and stores of a +thriving village, built of wood or small gray stones, a church-spire rising in +the midst, and generally two taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous +titles of “hotel,” “exchange,” “tontine,” or “coffee-house.” Passing on, we +glide now into the unquiet heart of an inland city,—of Utica, for +instance,—and find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and +quays, rich warehouses, and a busy population. We feel the eager and hurrying +spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us along with it. Through +the thickest of the tumult goes the canal, flowing between lofty rows of +buildings and arched bridges of hewn stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum +and bustle of struggling enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an +avenue of the ancient woods again. +</p> + +<p> +This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality that we +were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. An English traveller +paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick, and waged war on squirrels +and woodpeckers, sometimes sending an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame +ducks and geese which abound in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted +these foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness of +their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a thing of +life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured diversion. At the +moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a Massachusetts farmer by the leg +and threw him down in a very indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark +around his sturdy limb. A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to +step on deck as the boat emerged from under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday +clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from the bank, +forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the canal, and was fished +out in a very pitiable plight, not at all amended by our three rounds of +applause. Anon a Virginia schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed +the helmsman’s warning, “Bridge! bridge!” was saluted by the said bridge on his +knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his idol, but heard +the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully expected to see the treasures +of the poor man’s cranium scattered about the deck. However, as there was no +harm done, except a large bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent +in the bridge, the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow +pitiless are idle people! +</p> + +<hr /> + +<p> +The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for supper, the +next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on the canal, the same +space at dinner excepted. At the close of the meal it had become dusky enough +for lamplight. The rain pattered unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came +with a sullen rush against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred +through an opening of the forest. The intolerable dulness of the scene +engendered an evil spirit in me. Perceiving that the Englishman was taking +notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the cabin, I presumed +that we were all to figure in a future volume of travels, and amused my +ill-humor by falling into the probable vein of his remarks. He would hold up an +imaginary mirror, wherein our reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous, +yet still retain all undeniable likeness to the originals. Then, with more +sweeping malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great +classes of my countrymen. +</p> + +<p> +He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to recreate +himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College in the conjugation +of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would portray as the scholar of America, +and compare his erudition to a school-boy’s Latin theme made up of scraps +ill-selected and worse put together. Next the tourist looked at the +Massachusetts farmer, who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of +Sunday mails. Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion, +writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every morning and +eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted information is merely an +abstract and compound of newspaper paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus +harangues, and the argument and judge’s charge in his own lawsuits. The +book-monger cast his eye at a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster +than ever. In this sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see +daring enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here is the worshipper of +Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt, richer after every ruin; +here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to say it!) here is the American. He +lifted his eyeglass to inspect a Western lady, who at once became aware of the +glance, reddened, and retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here +was the pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of +America,—shrinking when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased +flesh, that thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without +confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with such a +quick apprehension of all impurity. +</p> + +<p> +In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as hard a lash +as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal Englishman. At length I +caught the eyes of my own image in the looking-glass, where a number of the +party were likewise reflected, and among them the Englishman, who at that +moment was intently observing myself. +</p> + +<hr /> + +<p> +The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen, the cabin +became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on shelves one above +another. For a long time our various incommodities kept us all awake except +five or six, who were accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own +snoring, and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance. It is a +curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people in the boat +while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others cease to be so, +breathing tumult out of their repose. Would it were possible to affix a +wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make melody of a snore, so that a +sleeping lover might serenade his mistress or a congregation snore a +psalm-tune! Other, though fainter, sounds than these contributed to my +restlessness. My head was close to the crimson curtain,—the sexual +division of the boat,—behind which I continually heard whispers and +stealthy footsteps; the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped +on the floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a tight +belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing of a pair of +stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye; a visible image pestered +my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was withdrawn between me and the Western +lady, who yet disrobed herself without a blush. +</p> + +<p> +Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad awake than +through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish impulse to toss my limbs +miles apart and appease the unquietness of mind by that of matter. Forgetting +that my berth was hardly so wide as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell +like an avalanche on the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of +sleepers. As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on +deck. A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the crew was +stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the ocean. Though the +rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and the darkness so intense that +there seemed to be no world except the little space on which our lanterns +glimmered. Yet it was an impressive scene. +</p> + +<p> +We were traversing the “long level,” a dead flat between Utica and Syracuse, +where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a lock for nearly +seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal tract of country. The forest +which covers it, consisting chiefly of white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees +that live in excessive moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial +draining of the swamp into the great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our +lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched far in among +the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark foliage. But generally +the tall stems and intermingled branches were naked, and brought into strong +relief amid the surrounding gloom by the whiteness of their decay. Often we +beheld the prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed +down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots where destruction had been +riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred trunks, erect, half overthrown, +extended along the ground, resting on their shattered limbs or tossing them +desperately into the darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, +in desolate confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and +vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and bounded by it, +the scene was ghostlike,—the very land of unsubstantial things, whither +dreams might betake themselves when they quit the slumberer’s brain. +</p> + +<p> +My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been driven to +this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. And even here, where +the savage queen was throned on the ruins of her empire, did we penetrate, a +vulgar and worldly throng, intruding on her latest solitude. In other lands +decay sits among fallen palaces; but here her home is in the forests. +</p> + +<p> +Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach of another +boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old scow,—just such +a craft as the “Flying Dutchman” would navigate on the canal. Perhaps it was +that celebrated personage himself whom I imperfectly distinguished at the helm +in a glazed cap and rough great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the +fumes of tobacco a hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn, +sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a signal for +some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change of horses. We had +proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when the tow-rope got entangled in +a fallen branch on the edge of the canal, and caused a momentary delay, during +which I went to examine the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the +forest. It was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed. +</p> + +<p> +The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass of diseased +splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full of conceits that night, +I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light, illumining decay and death, an +emblem of fame that gleams around the dead man without warming him, or of +genius when it owes its brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that +such ghostlike torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze +coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the canal. I +recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering far away. +</p> + +<p> +“Boat ahoy!” shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists. +</p> + +<p> +Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of the woods, +it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for their snail-like pace by +never loitering day nor night, especially for those who have paid their fare. +Indeed, the captain had an interest in getting rid of me; for I was his +creditor for a breakfast. +</p> + +<p> +“They are gone, Heaven be praised!” ejaculated I; “for I cannot possibly +overtake them. Here am I, on the ‘long level,’ at midnight, with the +comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where my baggage will be left. And +now to find a house or shed wherein to pass the night.” So thinking aloud, I +took a flambeau from the old tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my +steps withal, and, like a jack-o’-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour. +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..113e810 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #9233 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/9233) diff --git a/old/9233.txt b/old/9233.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e766086 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/9233.txt @@ -0,0 +1,960 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses From An +Old Manse"), by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses From An Old Manse") + +Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Posting Date: December 8, 2010 [EBook #9233] +Release Date: November, 2005 +First Posted: September 6, 2003 +Last Updated: February 6, 2007 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + + + + +Produced by David Widger. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + + MOSSES FROM AN OLD MANSE + + By Nathaniel Hawthorne + + SKETCHES FROM MEMORY + + + +THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. + + +It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from +Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends +between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often +as level as a church-aisle. All that day and two preceding ones we +had been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,--those +old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our +distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height after +height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began +to hang below the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of +the slides, those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which +descend into the hollows, leaving vestiges of their track hardly to +be effaced by the vegetation of ages. We had mountains behind us +and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier ones ahead. +Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of +that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the +farther region. + +In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the +Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart +through some defile known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a +wondrous path. A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans, +was travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside +as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand +directly across his intended road. He tarries not for such an +obstacle, but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, +discloses its treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all +the secrets of the mountain's inmost heart, with a mighty fracture +of rugged precipices on each side. This is the Notch of the White +Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted to describe it by so mean +an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those symbolic scenes +which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the conception, +of Omnipotence. + +. . . . . + +We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the +appearance of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the +solid rock. There was a wall of granite on each side, high and +precipitous, especially on our right, and so smooth that a few +evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is +the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity, of +the romantic defile of the Notch. Before emerging from it, the +rattling of wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled +out of the mountain, with seats on top and trunks behind, and a +smart driver, in a drab great-coat, touching the wheel-horses with +the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To my mind there was a +sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what would +have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding +forth from the same wild chasm. All the passengers, except a very +fat lady on the back seat, had alighted. One was a mineralogist, a +scientific, green-spectacled figure in black, bearing a heavy +hammer, with which he did great damage to the precipices, and put +the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed young man, +who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a +quotation from some of Byron's rhapsodies on mountain scenery. +There was also a trader, returning from Portland to the upper part +of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint bloom like one +of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur among +alpine cliffs. + +They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine +forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own +dismal shade. Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre, +surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine +long before it left the external world. It was here that we +obtained our first view, except at a distance, of the principal +group of mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when +contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the +long ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather +than of towering height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to +Heaven: he was white with snow a mile downward, and had caught the +only cloud that was sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head. +Let us forget the other names of American statesmen that have been +stamped upon these hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON. +Mountains are Earth's undecaying monuments. They must stand while +she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men +of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose +glory is universal, and whom all time will render illustrious. + +The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two +thousand feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a +clear November evening in the lowlands. By morning, probably, there +would be a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an +icy surface over the standing water. I was glad to perceive a +prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were +approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were +assembled at the door. + + + +OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. + +WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in +that wild country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White +Mountain Post-Office,--an establishment which distributes letters +and newspapers to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the +population of two or three townships among the hills. The broad and +weighty antlers of a deer, "a stag of ten," were fastened at the +corner of the house; a fox's bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and +a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still +bleeding, the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected +about the doorsteps, the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, +of six feet two, and corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of +features, such as might be moulded on his own blacksmith's anvil, +but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor. As we appeared, +he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a +tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an +echo from the opposite hill. + +Ethan Crawford's guests were of such a motley description as to form +quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place +like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and +the homely inn of country travellers. Among the company at the door +were the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we +had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had +chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount +Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of +Burlington and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young +married couples, all the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial +jaunt. Besides these strangers, the rugged county of Coos, in which +we were, was represented by half a dozen wood-cutters, who had slain +a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw. + +I had joined the party, and had a moment's leisure to examine them +before the echo of Ethan's blast returned from the hill. Not one, +but many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, +untwisted its complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial +harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone. It was a distinct yet distant +and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy band +had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons. +No subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a +concert as the first. A field-piece was then discharged from the +top of a neighboring hill, and gave birth to one long reverberation, +which ran round the circle of mountains in an unbroken chain of +sound and rolled away without a separate echo. After these +experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house, with +the keenest appetites for supper. + +It did one's heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in +the parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace +was built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an +old tree for a backlog. + +A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very +door. In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held +our hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and +began a pleasant variety of conversation. The mineralogist and the +physician talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain +air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford's father, an old man +of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The two +brides and the doctor's wife held a whispered discussion, which, by +their frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have +reference to the trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The +bridegrooms sat together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers +whom the spirit moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of +bashfulness towards their own young wives. The Green Mountain +squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he +had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut +River through the Notch to Conway, now a single day's journey, +though it had cost him eighteen. The Georgians held the album +between them, and favored us with the few specimens of its contents, +which they considered ridiculous enough to be worth hearing. One +extract met with deserved applause. It was a "Sonnet to the Snow on +Mount Washington," and had been contributed that very afternoon, +bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals. +The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from +familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those +curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on +the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman +of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the +composure of a veteran. + +Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a +winter evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where +these summer travellers were now sitting. I once had it in +contemplation to spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for +the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each +other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland. +There could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan +Crawford's inn. Let the student go thither in December, sit down +with the teamsters at their meals, share their evening merriment, +and repose with them at night when every bed has its three +occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with +slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight, +button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the +departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head +against the blast. A treasure of characteristic traits will repay +all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number. + +The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere, +and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that +the father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by +ascending the peak of Mount Washington. The children of that pair +have been overwhelmed, and found no such refuge. In the mythology +of the savage, these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and +inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty +heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities, +who sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on +the lower world. There are few legends more poetical than that of +the "Great Carbuncle" of the White Mountains. The belief was +communicated to the English settlers, and is hardly yet extinct, +that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen shining miles away, +hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among the hills. +They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an +unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit guarded that +inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist +from the enchanted lake. Thus life was worn away in the vain search +for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went up +the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more. On +this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral. + +The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions +of the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their +haunted region. The habits and sentiments of that departed people +were too distinct from those of their successors to find much real +sympathy. It has often been a matter of regret to me that I was +shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an +inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in +the Indian character, at least till such traits were pointed out by +others. I do abhor an Indian story. Yet no writer can be more +secure of a permanent place in our literature than the biographer of +the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring to tribes which have +mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be placed on a +classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there. + +I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our +mineralogist had found the three "Silver Hills" which an Indian +sachem sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the +treasure of which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking +for ever since. But the man of science had ransacked every hill +along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles of +wealth. By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great +adventure, we had prolonged our session deep into the night, +considering how early we were to set out on our six miles' ride to +the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a general breaking up. +I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw but little +probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the +first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to +climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as +it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of my +unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part, +though we were to seek for the "Great Carbuncle." + + + +THE CANAL-BOAT. + +I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my +imagination De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his +magic wand from the Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery +highway, crowded with the commerce of two worlds, till then +inaccessible to each other. This simple and mighty conception had +conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have +thrown carelessly into the great body of the earth, without +foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I pictured the +surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first glittered +by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign commodities in +exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely the water +of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it +causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches +and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and +refinement, their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up, +till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two continuous +lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to +Albany. I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to +voyage along the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the +course of the summer. + +Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our +vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in +mythological pictures. Bound to a distant port, we had neither +chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of +a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our +adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle +it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the +land paid contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it +holds its drowsy way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive +scenery that could be found between the great lakes and the +sea-coast. Yet there is variety enough, both on the surface of the +canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an +overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions. + +Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with +lumber, salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both +ends like a square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were +fated always to advance backward. On its deck would be a square +hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household work, with +a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange +dwelling and knew no other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his +pipe at the helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went +the family, travelling hundreds of miles in their own house and +carrying their fireside with them. The most frequent species of +craft were the "line-boats," which had a cabin at each end, and a +great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light +packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows +from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every one. Once we +encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in gloomy +black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence and +with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among +the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit +from the white mail's mighty projects and float along the current of +his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath +a clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and +sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to +Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors, +scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making +merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty +damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a +mirthful remark to me. She spoke in her native tongue, and I +retorted in good English, both of us laughing heartily at each +other's unintelligible wit. I cannot describe how pleasantly this +incident affected me. These honest Swiss were all itinerant +community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among +a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand +their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining +the happy lightness of their own spirit. + +Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in +a dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the +diversified panorama along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the +scene was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away +occasionally and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal +black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a +log-cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, +she looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and +dwelling in a desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her +door. Two or three miles farther would bring us to a lock, where +the slight impediment to navigation had created a little mart of +trade. Here would be found commodities of all sorts, enumerated in +yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the +owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and +small change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his +gains on the blessed Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling-houses +and stores of a thriving village, built of wood or small gray +stones, a church-spire rising in the midst, and generally two +taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous titles of "hotel," +"exchange," "tontine," or "coffee-house." Passing on, we glide now +into the unquiet heart of an inland city,--of Utica, for instance,--and +find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and quays, +rich warehouses, and a busy population. We feel the eager and +hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us +along with it. Through the thickest of the tumult goes the canal, +flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges of hewn +stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of struggling +enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue of the +ancient woods again. + +This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality +that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. +An English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking-stick, +and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending +an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which +abound in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted these +foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness +of their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a +thing of life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured +diversion. At the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a +Massachusetts farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very +indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb. +A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to step on deck +as the boat emerged from under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday +clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from +the bank, forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the +canal, and was fished out in a very pitiable plight, not at all +amended by our three rounds of applause. Anon a Virginia +schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the helmsman's +warning, "Bridge! bridge!" was saluted by the said bridge on his +knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his +idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully +expected to see the treasures of the poor man's cranium scattered +about the deck. However, as there was no harm done, except a large +bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge, +the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow +pitiless are idle people! + + +. . . . . . . . + +The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for +supper, the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on +the canal, the same space at dinner excepted. At the close of the +meal it had become dusky enough for lamplight. The rain pattered +unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush +against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred through an +opening of the forest. The intolerable dulness of the scene +engendered an evil spirit in me. Perceiving that the Englishman was +taking notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the +cabin, I presumed that we were all to figure in a future volume of +travels, and amused my ill-humor by falling into the probable vein +of his remarks. He would hold up an imaginary mirror, wherein our +reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous, yet still retain +all undeniable likeness to the originals. Then, with more sweeping +malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great +classes of my countrymen. + +He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to +recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College +in the conjugation of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would +portray as the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a +school-boy's Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse +put together. Next the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer, +who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday +mails. Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion, +writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every +morning and eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted +information is merely an abstract and compound of newspaper +paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus harangues, and the argument and +judge's charge in his own lawsuits. The book-monger cast his eye at +a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster than ever. In this +sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see daring +enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here is the +worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt, +richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to +say it!) here is the American. He lifted his eyeglass to inspect a +Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance, reddened, and +retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here was the +pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of America,--shrinking +when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased flesh, that +thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without +confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with +such a quick apprehension of all impurity. + +In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as +hard a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal +Englishman. At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the +looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected, +and among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently +observing myself. + +. . . . . . . . + +The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen, +the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on +shelves one above another. For a long time our various +incommodities kept us all awake except five or six, who were +accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring, +and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance. It +is a curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people +in the boat while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others +cease to be so, breathing tumult out of their repose. Would it were +possible to affix a wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make +melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover might serenade his +mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune! Other, though +fainter, sounds than these contributed to my restlessness. My head +was close to the crimson curtain,--the sexual division of the +boat,--behind which I continually heard whispers and stealthy footsteps; +the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped on the +floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a +tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing +of a pair of stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye; +a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was +withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself +without a blush. + +Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad +awake than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish +impulse to toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of +mind by that of matter. Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide +as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on +the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of sleepers. +As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on +deck. A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the +crew was stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the +ocean. Though the rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and +the darkness so intense that there seemed to be no world except the +little space on which our lanterns glimmered. Yet it was an +impressive scene. + +We were traversing the "long level," a dead flat between Utica and +Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a +lock for nearly seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal +tract of country. The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of +white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive +moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of +the swamp into the great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our +lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched +far in among the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark +foliage. But generally the tall stems and intermingled branches +were naked, and brought into strong relief amid the surrounding +gloom by the whiteness of their decay. Often we beheld the +prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed +down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots where +destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred +trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground, resting +on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the +darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate +confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and +vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and +bounded by it, the scene was ghostlike,--the very land of +unsubstantial things, whither dreams might betake themselves when +they quit the slumberer's brain. + +My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been +driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. +And even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of +her empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding +on her latest solitude. In other lands decay sits among fallen +palaces; but here her home is in the forests. + +Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach +of another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old +scow,--just such a craft as the "Flying Dutchman" would navigate on +the canal. Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I +imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough +great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a +hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn, +sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a +signal for some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change +of horses. We had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when +the tow-rope got entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the +canal, and caused a momentary delay, during which I went to examine +the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the forest. It +was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed. + +The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass +of diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full +of conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light, +illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the +dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its +brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike +torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze +coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the +canal. I recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering +far away. + +"Boat ahoy!" shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists. + +Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of +the woods, it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for +their snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially +for those who have paid their fare. Indeed, the captain had an +interest in getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a +breakfast. + +"They are gone, Heaven be praised!" ejaculated I; "for I cannot +possibly overtake them. Here am I, on the 'long level,' at +midnight, with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where +my baggage will be left. And now to find a house or shed wherein to +pass the night." So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old +tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and, +like a jack-o'-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sketches from Memory (From "Mosses +From An Old Manse"), by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + +***** This file should be named 9233.txt or 9233.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/9/2/3/9233/ + +Produced by David Widger. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/9233.zip b/old/9233.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7a4838 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/9233.zip diff --git a/old/haw6010.txt b/old/haw6010.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d18ccd3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/haw6010.txt @@ -0,0 +1,932 @@ +Project Gutenberg EBook, Sketches From Memory, by Nathaniel Hawthorne +From "Mosses From An Old Manse" +#60 in our series by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**EBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These EBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers***** + + + +Title: Sketches From Memory (From "Mosses From An Old Manse") + +Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Release Date: Nov, 2005 [EBook #9233] +[This file was first posted on September 6, 2003] +[Last updated on February 6, 2007] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + + + + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** + + + + +This eBook was produced by David Widger + + + + + + MOSSES FROM AN OLD MANSE + + By Nathaniel Hawthorne + + SKETCHES FROM MEMORY + + + +THE NOTCH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. + + +It was now the middle of September. We had come since sunrise from +Bartlett, passing up through the valley of the Saco, which extends +between mountainous walls, sometimes with a steep ascent, but often +as level as a church-aisle. All that day and two preceding ones we +had been loitering towards the heart of the White Mountains,--those +old crystal hills, whose mysterious brilliancy had gleamed upon our +distant wanderings before we thought of visiting them. Height after +height had risen and towered one above another till the clouds began +to hang below the peaks. Down their slopes were the red pathways of +the slides, those avalanches of earth, stones, and trees, which +descend into the hollows, leaving vestiges of their track hardly to +be effaced by the vegetation of ages. We had mountains behind us +and mountains on each side, and a group of mightier ones ahead. +Still our road went up along the Saco, right towards the centre of +that group, as if to climb above the clouds in its passage to the +farther region. + +In old times the settlers used to be astounded by the inroads of the +Northern Indians, coming down upon them from this mountain rampart +through some defile known only to themselves. It is, indeed, a +wondrous path. A demon, it might be fancied, or one of the Titans, +was travelling up the valley, elbowing the heights carelessly aside +as he passed, till at length a great mountain took its stand +directly across his intended road. He tarries not for such an +obstacle, but, rending it asunder a thousand feet from peak to base, +discloses its treasures of hidden minerals, its sunless waters, all +the secrets of the mountain's inmost heart, with a mighty fracture +of rugged precipices on each side. This is the Notch of the White +Hills. Shame on me that I have attempted to describe it by so mean +an image, feeling, as I do, that it is one of those symbolic scenes +which lead the mind to the sentiment, though not to the conception, +of Omnipotence. + +. . . . . + +We had now reached a narrow passage, which showed almost the +appearance of having been cut by human strength and artifice in the +solid rock. There was a wall of granite on each side, high and +precipitous, especially on our right, and so smooth that a few +evergreens could hardly find foothold enough to grow there. This is +the entrance, or, in the direction we were going, the extremity, of +the romantic defile of the Notch. Before emerging from it, the +rattling of wheels approached behind us, and a stage-coach rumbled +out of the mountain, with seats on top and trunks behind, and a +smart driver, in a drab great-coat, touching the wheel-horses with +the whip-stock and reigning in the leaders. To my mind there was a +sort of poetry in such an incident, hardly inferior to what would +have accompanied the painted array of an Indian war-party gliding +forth from the same wild chasm. All the passengers, except a very +fat lady on the back seat, had alighted. One was a mineralogist, a +scientific, green-spectacled figure in black, bearing a heavy +hammer, with which he did great damage to the precipices, and put +the fragments in his pocket. Another was a well-dressed young man, +who carried an operaglass set in gold, and seemed to be making a +quotation from some of Byron's rhapsodies on mountain scenery. +There was also a trader, returning from Portland to the upper part +of Vermont; and a fair young girl, with a very faint bloom like one +of those pale and delicate flowers which sometimes occur among +alpine cliffs. + +They disappeared, and we followed them, passing through a deep pine +forest, which for some miles allowed us to see nothing but its own +dismal shade. Towards nightfall we reached a level amphitheatre, +surrounded by a great rampart of hills, which shut out the sunshine +long before it left the external world. It was here that we +obtained our first view, except at a distance, of the principal +group of mountains. They are majestic, and even awful, when +contemplated in a proper mood, yet, by their breadth of base and the +long ridges which support them, give the idea of immense bulk rather +than of towering height. Mount Washington, indeed, looked near to +Heaven: he was white with snow a mile downward, and had caught the +only cloud that was sailing through the atmosphere to veil his head. +Let us forget the other names of American statesmen that have been +stamped upon these hills, but still call the loftiest WASHINGTON. +Mountains are Earth's undecaying monuments. They must stand while +she endures, and never should be consecrated to the mere great men +of their own age and country, but to the mighty ones alone, whose +glory is universal, and whom all time will render illustrious. + +The air, not often sultry in this elevated region, nearly two +thousand feet above the sea, was now sharp and cold, like that of a +clear November evening in the lowlands. By morning, probably, there +would be a frost, if not a snowfall, on the grass and rye, and an +icy surface over the standing water. I was glad to perceive a +prospect of comfortable quarters in a house which we were +approaching, and of pleasant company in the guests who were +assembled at the door. + + + +OUR EVENING PARTY AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. + +WE stood in front of a good substantial farm-house, of old date in +that wild country. A sign over the door denoted it to be the White +Mountain Post-Office,--an establishment which distributes letters +and newspapers to perhaps a score of persons, comprising the +population of two or three townships among the hills. The broad and +weighty antlers of a deer, "a stag of ten," were fastened at the +corner of the house; a fox's bushy tail was nailed beneath them; and +a huge black paw lay on the ground, newly severed and still +bleeding, the trophy of a bear-hunt. Among several persons collected +about the doorsteps, the most remarkable was a sturdy mountaineer, +of six feet two, and corresponding bulk, with a heavy set of +features, such as might be moulded on his own blacksmith's anvil, +but yet indicative of mother wit and rough humor. As we appeared, +he uplifted a tin trumpet, four or five feet long, and blew a +tremendous blast, either in honor of our arrival or to awaken an +echo from the opposite hill. + +Ethan Crawford's guests were of such a motley description as to form +quite a picturesque group, seldom seen together except at some place +like this, at once the pleasure-house of fashionable tourists and +the homely inn of country travellers. Among the company at the door +were the mineralogist and the owner of the gold operaglass whom we +had encountered in the Notch; two Georgian gentlemen, who had +chilled their Southern blood that morning on the top of Mount +Washington; a physician and his wife from Conway; a trader of +Burlington and an old squire of the Green Mountains; and two young +married couples, all the way from Massachusetts, on the matrimonial +jaunt. Besides these strangers, the rugged county of Coos, in which +we were, was represented by half a dozen wood-cutters, who had slain +a bear in the forest and smitten off his paw. + +I had joined the party, and had a moment's leisure to examine them +before the echo of Ethan's blast returned from the hill. Not one, +but many echoes had caught up the harsh and tuneless sound, +untwisted its complicated threads, and found a thousand aerial +harmonies in one stern trumpet-tone. It was a distinct yet distant +and dream-like symphony of melodious instruments, as if an airy band +had been hidden on the hillside and made faint music at the summons. +No subsequent trial produced so clear, delicate, and spiritual a +concert as the first. A field-piece was then discharged from the +top of a neighboring hill, and gave birth to one long reverberation, +which ran round the circle of mountains in an unbroken chain of +sound and rolled away without a separate echo. After these +experiments, the cold atmosphere drove us all into the house, with +the keenest appetites for supper. + +It did one's heart good to see the great fires that were kindled in +the parlor and bar-room, especially the latter, where the fireplace +was built of rough stone, and might have contained the trunk of an +old tree for a backlog. + +A man keeps a comfortable hearth when his own forest is at his very +door. In the parlor, when the evening was fairly set in, we held +our hands before our eyes to shield them from the ruddy glow, and +began a pleasant variety of conversation. The mineralogist and the +physician talked about the invigorating qualities of the mountain +air, and its excellent effect on Ethan Crawford's father, an old man +of seventy-five, with the unbroken frame of middle life. The two +brides and the doctor's wife held a whispered discussion, which, by +their frequent titterings and a blush or two, seemed to have +reference to the trials or enjoyments of the matrimonial state. The +bridegrooms sat together in a corner, rigidly silent, like Quakers +whom the spirit moveth not, being still in the odd predicament of +bashfulness towards their own young wives. The Green Mountain +squire chose me for his companion, and described the difficulties he +had met with half a century ago in travelling from the Connecticut +River through the Notch to Conway, now a single day's journey, +though it had cost him eighteen. The Georgians held the album +between them, and favored us with the few specimens of its contents, +which they considered ridiculous enough to be worth hearing. One +extract met with deserved applause. It was a "Sonnet to the Snow on +Mount Washington," and had been contributed that very afternoon, +bearing a signature of great distinction in magazines and annuals. +The lines were elegant and full of fancy, but too remote from +familiar sentiment, and cold as their subject, resembling those +curious specimens of crystallized vapor which I observed next day on +the mountain-top. The poet was understood to be the young gentleman +of the gold opera-glass, who heard our laudatory remarks with the +composure of a veteran. + +Such was our party, and such their ways of amusement. But on a +winter evening another set of guests assembled at the hearth where +these summer travellers were now sitting. I once had it in +contemplation to spend a month hereabouts, in sleighing-time, for +the sake of studying the yeomen of New England, who then elbow each +other through the Notch by hundreds, on their way to Portland. +There could be no better school for such a purpose than Ethan +Crawford's inn. Let the student go thither in December, sit down +with the teamsters at their meals, share their evening merriment, +and repose with them at night when every bed has its three +occupants, and parlor, bar-room, and kitchen are strewn with +slumberers around the fire. Then let him rise before daylight, +button his great-coat, muffle up his ears, and stride with the +departing caravan a mile or two, to see how sturdily they make head +against the blast. A treasure of characteristic traits will repay +all inconveniences, even should a frozen nose be of the number. + +The conversation of our party soon became more animated and sincere, +and we recounted some traditions of the Indians, who believed that +the father and mother of their race were saved from a deluge by +ascending the peak of Mount Washington. The children of that pair +have been overwhelmed, and found no such refuge. In the mythology +of the savage, these mountains were afterwards considered sacred and +inaccessible, full of unearthly wonders, illuminated at lofty +heights by the blaze of precious stones, and inhabited by deities, +who sometimes shrouded themselves in the snow-storm and came down on +the lower world. There are few legends more poetical than that of +the "Great Carbuncle" of the White Mountains. The belief was +communicated to the English settlers, and is hardly yet extinct, +that a gem, of such immense size as to be seen shining miles away, +hangs from a rock over a clear, deep lake, high up among the hills. +They who had once beheld its splendor were enthralled with an +unutterable yearning to possess it. But a spirit guarded that +inestimable jewel, and bewildered the adventurer with a dark mist +from the enchanted lake. Thus life was worn away in the vain search +for an unearthly treasure, till at length the deluded one went up +the mountain, still sanguine as in youth, but returned no more. On +this theme methinks I could frame a tale with a deep moral. + +The hearts of the palefaces would not thrill to these superstitions +of the red men, though we spoke of them in the centre of their +haunted region. The habits and sentiments of that departed people +were too distinct from those of their successors to find much real +sympathy. It has often been a matter of regret to me that I was +shut out from the most peculiar field of American fiction by an +inability to see any romance, or poetry, or grandeur, or beauty in +the Indian character, at least till such traits were pointed out by +others. I do abhor an Indian story. Yet no writer can be more +secure of a permanent place in our literature than the biographer of +the Indian chiefs. His subject, as referring to tribes which have +mostly vanished from the earth, gives him a right to be placed on a +classic shelf, apart from the merits which will sustain him there. + +I made inquiries whether, in his researches about these parts, our +mineralogist had found the three "Silver Hills" which an Indian +sachem sold to an Englishman nearly two hundred years ago, and the +treasure of which the posterity of the purchaser have been looking +for ever since. But the man of science had ransacked every hill +along the Saco, and knew nothing of these prodigious piles of +wealth. By this time, as usual with men on the eve of great +adventure, we had prolonged our session deep into the night, +considering how early we were to set out on our six miles' ride to +the foot of Mount Washington. There was now a general breaking up. +I scrutinized the faces of the two bridegrooms, and saw but little +probability of their leaving the bosom of earthly bliss, in the +first week of the honeymoon and at the frosty hour of three, to +climb above the clouds; nor, when I felt how sharp the wind was as +it rushed through a broken pane and eddied between the chinks of my +unplastered chamber, did I anticipate much alacrity on my own part, +though we were to seek for the "Great Carbuncle." + + + +THE CANAL-BOAT. + +I was inclined to be poetical about the Grand Canal. In my +imagination De Witt Clinton was an enchanter, who had waved his +magic wand from the Hudson to Lake Erie and united them by a watery +highway, crowded with the commerce of two worlds, till then +inaccessible to each other. This simple and mighty conception had +conferred inestimable value on spots which Nature seemed to have +thrown carelessly into the great body of the earth, without +foreseeing that they could ever attain importance. I pictured the +surprise of the sleepy Dutchmen when the new river first glittered +by their doors, bringing them hard cash or foreign commodities in +exchange for their hitherto unmarketable produce. Surely the water +of this canal must be the most fertilizing of all fluids; for it +causes towns, with their masses of brick and stone, their churches +and theatres, their business and hubbub, their luxury and +refinement, their gay dames and polished citizens, to spring up, +till in time the wondrous stream may flow between two continuous +lines of buildings, through one thronged street, from Buffalo to +Albany. I embarked about thirty miles below Utica, determining to +voyage along the whole extent of the canal at least twice in the +course of the summer. + +Behold us, then, fairly afloat, with three horses harnessed to our +vessel, like the steeds of Neptune to a huge scallop-shell in +mythological pictures. Bound to a distant port, we had neither +chart nor compass, nor cared about the wind, nor felt the heaving of +a billow, nor dreaded shipwreck, however fierce the tempest, in our +adventurous navigation of an interminable mudpuddle; for a mudpuddle +it seemed, and as dark and turbid as if every kennel in the +land paid contribution to it. With an imperceptible current, it +holds its drowsy way through all the dismal swamps and unimpressive +scenery that could be found between the great lakes and the sea- +coast. Yet there is variety enough, both on the surface of the +canal and along its banks, to amuse the traveller, if an +overpowering tedium did not deaden his perceptions. + +Sometimes we met a black and rusty-looking vessel, laden with +lumber, salt from Syracuse, or Genesee flour, and shaped at both +ends like a square-toed boot, as if it had two sterns, and were +fated always to advance backward. On its deck would be a square +hut, and a woman seen through the window at her household work, with +a little tribe of children who perhaps had been born in this strange +dwelling and knew no other home. Thus, while the husband smoked his +pipe at the helm and the eldest son rode one of the horses, on went +the family, travelling hundreds of miles in their own house and +carrying their fireside with them. The most frequent species of +craft were the "line-boats," which had a cabin at each end, and a +great bulk of barrels, bales, and boxes in the midst, or light +packets like our own decked all over with a row of curtained windows +from stem to stern, and a drowsy face at every one. Once we +encountered a boat of rude construction, painted all in gloomy +black, and manned by three Indians, who gazed at us in silence and +with a singular fixedness of eye. Perhaps these three alone, among +the ancient possessors of the land, had attempted to derive benefit +from the white mail's mighty projects and float along the current of +his enterprise. Not long after, in the midst of a swamp and beneath +a clouded sky, we overtook a vessel that seemed full of mirth and +sunshine. It contained a little colony of Swiss on their way to +Michigan, clad in garments of strange fashion and gay colors, +scarlet, yellow, and bright blue, singing, laughing, and making +merry in odd tones and a babble of outlandish words. One pretty +damsel, with a beautiful pair of naked white arms, addressed a +mirthful remark to me. She spoke in her native tongue, and I +retorted in good English, both of us laughing heartily at each +other's unintelligible wit. I cannot describe how pleasantly this +incident affected me. These honest Swiss were all itinerant +community of jest and fun journeying through a gloomy land and among +a dull race of money-getting drudges, meeting none to understand +their mirth, and only one to sympathize with it, yet still retaining +the happy lightness of their own spirit. + +Had I been on my feet at the time instead of sailing slowly along in +a dirty canal-boat, I should often have paused to contemplate the +diversified panorama along the banks of the canal. Sometimes the +scene was a forest, dark, dense, and impervious, breaking away +occasionally and receding from a lonely tract, covered with dismal +black stumps, where, on the verge of the canal, might be seen a log- +cottage and a sallow-faced woman at the window. Lean and aguish, +she looked like poverty personified, half clothed, half fed, and +dwelling in a desert, while a tide of wealth was sweeping by her +door. Two or three miles farther would bring us to a lock, where +the slight impediment to navigation had created a little mart of +trade. Here would be found commodities of all sorts, enumerated in +yellow letters on the window-shutters of a small grocery-store, the +owner of which had set his soul to the gathering of coppers and +small change, buying and selling through the week, and counting his +gains on the blessed Sabbath. The next scene might be the dwelling- +houses and stores of a thriving village, built of wood or small gray +stones, a church-spire rising in the midst, and generally two +taverns, bearing over their piazzas the pompous titles of "hotel," +"exchange," "tontine," or "coffee-house." Passing on, we glide now +into the unquiet heart of an inland city,--of Utica, for instance,-- +and find ourselves amid piles of brick, crowded docks and quays, +rich warehouses, and a busy population. We feel the eager and +hurrying spirit of the place, like a stream and eddy whirling us +along with it. Through the thickest of the tumult goes the canal, +flowing between lofty rows of buildings and arched bridges of hewn +stone. Onward, also, go we, till the hum and bustle of struggling +enterprise die away behind us and we are threading an avenue of the +ancient woods again. + +This sounds not amiss in description, but was so tiresome in reality +that we were driven to the most childish expedients for amusement. +An English traveller paraded the deck, with a rifle in his walking- +stick, and waged war on squirrels and woodpeckers, sometimes sending +an unsuccessful bullet among flocks of tame ducks and geese which +abound in the dirty water of the canal. I, also, pelted these +foolish birds with apples, and smiled at the ridiculous earnestness +of their scrambles for the prize while the apple bobbed about like a +thing of life. Several little accidents afforded us good-natured +diversion. At the moment of changing horses the tow-rope caught a +Massachusetts farmer by the leg and threw him down in a very +indescribable posture, leaving a purple mark around his sturdy limb. +A new passenger fell flat on his back in attempting to step on deck +as the boat emerged from under a bridge. Another, in his Sunday +clothes, as good luck would have it, being told to leap aboard from +the bank, forthwith plunged up to his third waistcoat-button in the +canal, and was fished out in a very pitiable plight, not at all +amended by our three rounds of applause. Anon a Virginia +schoolmaster, too intent on a pocket Virgil to heed the helmsman's +warning, "Bridge! bridge!" was saluted by the said bridge on his +knowledge-box. I had prostrated myself like a pagan before his +idol, but heard the dull, leaden sound of the contact, and fully +expected to see the treasures of the poor man's cranium scattered +about the deck. However, as there was no harm done, except a large +bump on the head, and probably a corresponding dent in the bridge, +the rest of us exchanged glances and laughed quietly. O, bow +pitiless are idle people! + + +. . . . . . . . + +The table being now lengthened through the cabin and spread for +supper, the next twenty minutes were the pleasantest I had spent on +the canal, the same space at dinner excepted. At the close of the +meal it had become dusky enough for lamplight. The rain pattered +unceasingly on the deck, and sometimes came with a sullen rush +against the windows, driven by the wind as it stirred through an +opening of the forest. The intolerable dulness of the scene +engendered an evil spirit in me. Perceiving that the Englishman was +taking notes in a memorandum-book, with occasional glances round the +cabin, I presumed that we were all to figure in a future volume of +travels, and amused my ill-humor by falling into the probable vein +of his remarks. He would hold up an imaginary mirror, wherein our +reflected faces would appear ugly and ridiculous, yet still retain +all undeniable likeness to the originals. Then, with more sweeping +malice, he would make these caricatures the representatives of great +classes of my countrymen. + +He glanced at the Virginia schoolmaster, a Yankee by birth, who, to +recreate himself, was examining a freshman from Schenectady College +in the conjugation of a Greek verb. Him the Englishman would +portray as the scholar of America, and compare his erudition to a +school-boy's Latin theme made up of scraps ill-selected and worse +put together. Next the tourist looked at the Massachusetts farmer, +who was delivering a dogmatic harangue on the iniquity of Sunday +mails. Here was the far-famed yeoman of New England; his religion, +writes the Englishman, is gloom on the Sabbath, long prayers every +morning and eventide, and illiberality at all times; his boasted +information is merely an abstract and compound of newspaper +paragraphs, Congress debates, caucus harangues, and the argument and +judge's charge in his own lawsuits. The book-monger cast his eye at +a Detroit merchant, and began scribbling faster than ever. In this +sharp-eyed man, this lean man, of wrinkled brow, we see daring +enterprise and close-fisted avarice combined. Here is the +worshipper of Mammon at noonday; here is the three times bankrupt, +richer after every ruin; here, in one word, (O wicked Englishman to +say it!) here is the American. He lifted his eyeglass to inspect a +Western lady, who at once became aware of the glance, reddened, and +retired deeper into the female part of the cabin. Here was the +pure, modest, sensitive, and shrinking woman of America,--shrinking +when no evil is intended, and sensitive like diseased flesh, that +thrills if you but point at it; and strangely modest, without +confidence in the modesty of other people; and admirably pure, with +such a quick apprehension of all impurity. + +In this manner I went all through the cabin, hitting everybody as +hard a lash as I could, and laying the whole blame on the infernal +Englishman. At length I caught the eyes of my own image in the +looking-glass, where a number of the party were likewise reflected, +and among them the Englishman, who at that moment was intently +observing myself. + +. . . . . . . . + +The crimson curtain being let down between the ladies and gentlemen, +the cabin became a bedchamber for twenty persons, who were laid on +shelves one above another. For a long time our various +incommodities kept us all awake except five or six, who were +accustomed to sleep nightly amid the uproar of their own snoring, +and had little to dread from any other species of disturbance. It +is a curious fact that these snorers had been the most quiet people +in the boat while awake, and became peace-breakers only when others +cease to be so, breathing tumult out of their repose. Would it were +possible to affix a wind-instrument to the nose, and thus make +melody of a snore, so that a sleeping lover might serenade his +mistress or a congregation snore a psalm-tune! Other, though +fainter, sounds than these contributed to my restlessness. My head +was close to the crimson curtain,--the sexual division of the boat, +--behind which I continually heard whispers and stealthy footsteps; +the noise of a comb laid on the table or a slipper dropped on the +floor; the twang, like a broken harp-string, caused by loosening a +tight belt; the rustling of a gown in its descent; and the unlacing +of a pair of stays. My ear seemed to have the properties of an eye; +a visible image pestered my fancy in the darkness; the curtain was +withdrawn between me and the Western lady, who yet disrobed herself +without a blush. + +Finally all was hushed in that quarter. Still I was more broad +awake than through the whole preceding day, and felt a feverish +impulse to toss my limbs miles apart and appease the unquietness of +mind by that of matter. Forgetting that my berth was hardly so wide +as a coffin, I turned suddenly over and fell like an avalanche on +the floor, to the disturbance of the whole community of sleepers. +As there were no bones broken, I blessed the accident and went on +deck. A lantern was burning at each end of the boat, and one of the +crew was stationed at the bows, keeping watch, as mariners do on the +ocean. Though the rain had ceased, the sky was all one cloud, and +the darkness so intense that there seemed to be no world except the +little space on which our lanterns glimmered. Yet it was an +impressive scene. + +We were traversing the "long level," a dead flat between Utica and +Syracuse, where the canal has not rise or fall enough to require a +lock for nearly seventy miles. There can hardly be a more dismal +tract of country. The forest which covers it, consisting chiefly of +white-cedar, black-ash, and other trees that live in excessive +moisture, is now decayed and death-struck by the partial draining of +the swamp into the great ditch of the canal. Sometimes, indeed, our +lights were reflected from pools of stagnant water which stretched +far in among the trunks of the trees, beneath dense masses of dark +foliage. But generally the tall stems and intermingled branches +were naked, and brought into strong relief amid the surrounding +gloom by the whiteness of their decay. Often we beheld the +prostrate form of some old sylvan giant which had fallen and crushed +down smaller trees under its immense ruin. In spots where +destruction had been riotous, the lanterns showed perhaps a hundred +trunks, erect, half overthrown, extended along the ground, resting +on their shattered limbs or tossing them desperately into the +darkness, but all of one ashy white, all naked together, in desolate +confusion. Thus growing out of the night as we drew nigh, and +vanishing as we glided on, based on obscurity, and overhung and +bounded by it, the scene was ghostlike,--the very land of +unsubstantial things, whither dreams might betake themselves when +they quit the slumberer's brain. + +My fancy found another emblem. The wild nature of America had been +driven to this desert-place by the encroachments of civilized man. +And even here, where the savage queen was throned on the ruins of +her empire, did we penetrate, a vulgar and worldly throng, intruding +on her latest solitude. In other lands decay sits among fallen +palaces; but here her home is in the forests. + +Looking ahead, I discerned a distant light, announcing the approach +of another boat, which soon passed us, and proved to be a rusty old +scow,--just such a craft as the "Flying Dutchman" would navigate on +the canal. Perhaps it was that celebrated personage himself whom I +imperfectly distinguished at the helm in a glazed cap and rough +great-coat, with a pipe in his mouth, leaving the fumes of tobacco a +hundred yards behind. Shortly after our boatman blew a horn, +sending a long and melancholy note through the forest avenue, as a +signal for some watcher in the wilderness to be ready with a change +of horses. We had proceeded a mile or two with our fresh team when +the tow-rope got entangled in a fallen branch on the edge of the +canal, and caused a momentary delay, during which I went to examine +the phosphoric light of an old tree a little within the forest. It +was not the first delusive radiance that I had followed. + +The tree lay along the ground, and was wholly converted into a mass +of diseased splendor, which threw a ghastliness around. Being full +of conceits that night, I called it a frigid fire, a funeral light, +illumining decay and death, an emblem of fame that gleams around the +dead man without warming him, or of genius when it owes its +brilliancy to moral rottenness, and was thinking that such ghostlike +torches were just fit to light up this dead forest or to blaze +coldly in tombs, when, starting from my abstraction, I looked up the +canal. I recollected myself, and discovered the lanterns glimmering +far away. + +"Boat ahoy!" shouted I, making a trumpet of my closed fists. + +Though the cry must have rung for miles along that hollow passage of +the woods, it produced no effect. These packet-boats make up for +their snail-like pace by never loitering day nor night, especially +for those who have paid their fare. Indeed, the captain had an +interest in getting rid of me; for I was his creditor for a +breakfast. + +"They are gone, Heaven be praised!" ejaculated I; "for I cannot +possibly overtake them. Here am I, on the 'long level,' at +midnight, with the comfortable prospect of a walk to Syracuse, where +my baggage will be left. And now to find a house or shed wherein to +pass the night." So thinking aloud, I took a flambeau from the old +tree, burning, but consuming not, to light my steps withal, and, +like a jack-o'-the-lantern, set out on my midnight tour. + + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, SKETCHES FROM MEMORY *** +By Nathaniel Hawthorne + +***** This file should be named haw6010.txt or haw6010.zip ***** + +Corrected EDITIONS of our etexts get a new NUMBER, haw6011.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, haw6010a.txt + +This eBook was produced by David Widger [widger@cecomet.net] + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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